


M 




Class UC|N^ 
Book £Jq1_ 



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s 



s. 



HAND-BOOK 

FOK 

EUEOPEAN TOURISTS 

THROUGH 

BELGIUM, HOLLAND, THE EHINE, GERMANY, SWITZERLAND, 
ITALY, AND ERANCE : 

INCLUDING 

A FULL DESCRIPTION OF PARIS; 

THE CHANNEL ISLANDS; 
THE FASHIONABLE CONTINENTAL SPAS, 

WITH BEMABKS ON THE NATURE OF MINERAL WATEE8 BY ENGLISH AND KBSIDENT PHYSICIANS ; 

TEN MINUTES- ADVICE ON SEA-SICKNESS; 
A CUSTOM-HOUSE GUIDE; 

AND 

A LIST OF THE STEAIVl PACKETS 

TO AND rUOM ALL THE FOREIGN PORTS; 

CONTINENTAL RAILWAYS, 

WITH FARES, HOURS OF DEPARTURE, AND REGULATIONS. 



BY FEANCIS COGHLIN, 

Author of Guides to London, Paris, St. Petersburgh, The Rhine, Switzerland, Belgium, 

Holland, &c. 



SECOND EDITION. 

ENLARGED AND IMPROVED. 

Illustrated by a New and Original Map of Europe ; with aU the Railways open, in progress, 

and proposed ; and Panorama of the Rhine from Cologne to Mayence. 



LONDON: 

H. HUGHES, 15, ST. MARTIN'S LE GRAND. 

BRUSSELS: C. MUQUARDT. LEIPSIG : TAUCHNITZ, Juk, 

1847. 



LONDON : 

THOS. HARBILD, PRINTER, SILVER STRKKT, 

FALCON SQUARK. 






PEEFiOE 



TO THE 



SECOND EDITION. 



The rapid and unprecedented sale of the first and second editions 
of the Hand-book for Central Europe, renders an apology for the 
appearance of a new edition for 1847, it is presumed, unnecessary. 
Considerable additions, improvements, and corrections up to the 
present time have been introduced ; and the whole line of 
route from Hamburg to Vienna, including those cities, entirely 
re- written. 

A new edition of the Hand-book for Italy, complete in one 
Volume, is also published ; and, without any pretensions to ^ne 
writing, there is every reason to hope it will prove a useful Com- 
panion to travellers through that interesting count^5^ 

April, 1847. 



Higt of 33oo]kseners 

WHERE COGHLAn's HATSD-BOOKS MAT BE HA1>. 



Aix'la-Chapelle 




Meyer. 


jimsterdam 




Frederick Muller. 


Antwerp 






Kornicker. 


Baden-Baden 






Marx. 


Basle 






Waltz. Schweighauser. 


Berlin . 






Asher. 


Berne 






Burgdorfe. 


Bologna . 






Rusconi freres. 


Bonn 






Henry and Cohen. 


Boulogne 






Watel. 


Brighton 






Folthorp. 


Brussels 






Muquardt. 


Calais - 






Le Roi 


Carlsruhe 






Bielefeld. 


Coblentz 






Hergt. 


Cologne . 






Eisen. Kohnan. 


Dover 






Batchellor. 


Dresden 






Arnold. 


Florence 






Molini. 


Frankfort 






Jiigel. Wilmans. Hermann. 


Geyieva 






Briquet and Dubois. Desrogis. 


Ge7ioa 






Beuf. 


Hamburg 






Perthes and Co. 


Havre . 






Hondaille. 


Heidelberg 






Mohr. 


Lausanne 






Rouiller. 


Leipsic . 






B. Tauchnitz 


Leghorn 






Nanni, successor to Gamba. 


Lucerne 






Meyer. 


Mannheim 






Artaria and Fontaine. 


Mayence 






Zabern. Faber. 


Milan 






Artaria. Dumolard. Molinari. 


Munich . 






J. G. Cotta. 


Naples . 






Glass, Puzziello, & English Library 


Paris 






Galignani. 


Pisa 






Nistri. 


Rams gate 






Burges and Hunt. 


Rome 






, Monaldini. 


Rotterdam 






Mrs. Krapp. 


Southampton 






Fletcher and Son 


Turin 






Bocca. 


Venice . 






Vallardi. 



PREFACE. 



In the years 1888, 1889, 1840, when the hand-books of Mr Murray 
appeared in such rapid succession, embracing most parts of the 
Continent, and anticipating by announcement every corner of Europe ; 
and throwing " net works," as he called them, not only over those 
spots little frequented by English travellers, but scarcely ever visited ; 
I thought it unnecessary to republish any of my original works ; 
but the editions in 1842-43 have so overloaded the tourist that he 
cries out, with some appearance of reason, " Hold hard, there !" 
What, three hand-books for Italy, two for Germany, one for France 
(not including Paris), and one for Switzerland ; making, in all, eight 
volumes of goodly size for a continental tour ! 

The Hand-Book for CENTRAL EUROPE is compiled for the 
use of those who do not require a travelling library, but such as 
merely pass through a country by the high-ways, avoiding the by- 
ways, and stopping only at the most attractive places. For those 
who prefer visiting every place, in every direction, this Guide is not 
intended. It will, however, be readily seen that the most interesting 
places, such as Paris, Brussels, the Rhine, the German Watering- 
places, Switzerland, and Jersey and Guernsey, have been so fully 
described as to render local guides unnecessary ; and general hints 
respecting luggage, modes of travelling, expenses, in short, every 
information in the least likely to be useful to travellers has been 
inserted. 



1 



Vi PREFACE. 

In the compilation, however, I have not had the good fortune to 
be aided by the hints or suggestions of numerous travellers. The 
golden idea of an author inviting travellers to correct faulty Guide- 
books originated with Mr Murray. No plan could be cheaper or 
better calculated to render second editions^ what few first editions 
are, correct ; and the evident improvements which have resulted 
tempts me to solicit the kind offices of my readers in the words of 
the writer of the Hand-books. 

" That such a work can be faultless is impossible ; and the Author 
has therefore to throw himself on the indulgence of his readers to 
excuse the inaccuracies (numerous no doubt) which may occur in the 
course of it, especially in the first edition, in spite of the care taken 
to avoid them ; and he most particularly requests all who make use 
of it to favour him, through his publishers, with a notice of any 
mistakes or omissions which they may discover, such communications 
will be carefully attended to, in the event of a new edition being 
required." 

London, May 1st, 1844. 

/ 



INTEODUCTION. 



PASSPORT, 



The first business previous to visiting the Continent is to obtain 
permission, i. e. a passport, from the ambassador or consul of the 
country you may wish to visit. For the Rhine, via Rotterdam, it 
will be necessary to apply to the Netherlands Consul, 123 Fen- 
church street, City ; where a passport can be obtained on the first 
application upon payment of five shillings. Should the traveller be 
going through Belgium, it will be necessary to get a passport from 
the Belgian Minister, No. 9 a, Weymouth street, from 11 till 3 ; and 
he must then get the signature of a Prussian Ambassador ; or a vist- 
can be obtained at Rotterdam from the Prussian Consul for a trifling 
consideration. To obtain a French passport, personal application 
may he made at the office, daily, from one till three o'clock. Appli- 
cants, in the first instance, are supplied with a paper to be filled up 
at leisure with name, profession, age, &c. ; the passport may be 
obtained the following day in the order the applicants arrive, which 
is regulated by numbers. Ladies are admitted immediately. Should 
the case be of a pressing nature, though not sufficient to warrant a 
deviation from the established rules of the office at the Ambassador's, 
by applying to the French Consul, between eleven and four daily, a 
passport may be obtained by paying a fee of ten shillings. Members 
of Parliament, and other privileged persons, may obtain a passport 
on their first application. 

Passports may also be obtained from the French Consuls at 
Dover, Brighton, and Southampton, for which ten shillings each is 
-charged. 

The Prussian and Austrian Ambassadors in London invariably 
refuse passports, except to natives of their respective dominions, but 
the former will countersign a passport of another Embassy, which 
the latter will not ; but this is of little consequence, as the Austrian 
signature may be readily obtained in Paris, Brussels, Frankfort, 
Carlsruhe, Berne, &c., or any residence of an Austrian Minister ; 
without which, it should he always recollected, travellers cannot enter 
any part of the Austrian dominions, or even visit the lakes of Coma 
or Maggiore, 



Tin INTRODUCTION. — PASSPORTS. 



FOREIGN OFFICE PASSPORT. 

It is perfectly unnecessary to apply for a passport at the Foreign 
Office, unless indeed you labour under the vague impression that 
it will save you trouble ; this is not the case, the people of the 
Foreign Office may tell you so, but it is a mistake ; those, however, 
who prefer one, must have a letter written by his banker or some 
person to whom he is known, and addressed to the Secretary of State 
for Foreign Affairs, stating his wish, and inscribed on the outside, 
Passport. The passport will be granted the next day, on payment 
of 21 7s. 6d. 

The passports of travellers were formerly demanded at every 
fortified town, and examined by the officer on duty ; this is now 
seldom done. In many places the master of the hotel will put 
before him a ruled paper, which he must fill up, and sign his name, 
place of abode, profession, &c. 

PASSPORTS IN SWITZERLAND 

Are seldom required travelling ; it is, however, better to carry it 
about your person. At Geneva, the Sardinian Consul charges four 
francs for his signature ; without which, or that of a Sardinian 
Minister, travellers are not allowed to enter Savoy, of which the 
valley of Chamounix forms part. 

The cream of the passport business (for a business it is undoubt- 
edly) is to attend strictly to the following instructions : — 

1st. Before quitting England be sure to obtain a passport ; always, 
if possible, from the Minister or Consul of the country you may 
first enter. 

2ud. Before attempting to quit one state for another, obtain the 
vise of that you are about to enter. 

3rd. Before applying for the signature of a foreign, always obtain 
the vise of the British Minister. 

4th. Always carry your passport about your person. 

A passport case, with leaves like a book, is the best way of car- 
rying it. Mr Lee, 440 West Strand, has always a great variety on 
hand. 



RESIDENCES OF FOREIGN AMBASSADORS AND CONSULS. 

PASSPORTS OBTAINED AT EACH. 

America - - Ambassador's residence, 46 Grosvenor place ; Consul's office, 1 Bishops- 
gate churchyard. 

Austria - - - Ambassador's residence, 7 Chandos street, Cavendish square. 

Baden - - - Consul's office, 6 Great Winchester street. > 

Bavaria - - - Ambassador's residence, 3 Hill street, Berkeley square ; Consul's office, 
11 Bury's court, St Mary Axe. 

Belgium - - - Ambassador's residence, 50 Portland place ; Passport office, 9 a Wey- 
mouth street, Portland place. 



MONEY. 



IX 



Brazil - - - Ambassador's residence, 10 York place, Portman square; Consul's office, 
3 Howford btiildings, Fenchurch street. 

Denmark - - Ambassador's residence, 30 Wilton crescent ; Consul's office, 6 Warn- 
ford court, Throgmorton street. 

Frankfort - • Consul's office, 12 Broad street buildings. 

France - - - Ambassador's residence, Manchester house, Manchester square ; Pass- 
port offices 6 Poland street, Oxford street ; Consul's office, 3 Cop- 
thall buildings, Copthall court. 

Hanover - - Ambassador's residence, 44 Grosvenor place ; Consul's office, 6 Circus, 
Minories. 

Netherlands - Ambassador's residence, 25 Wilton crescent; Consul's office, 123 Fen- 
church street. 

Prussia - - - Ambassador's residence, 4 Carlton terrace; Consul's office, 105 Fen- 
church street. 

Russia - - - Ambassador's residence, 30 Dover street, Piccadilly ; Consul's office, 1 
Copthall buildings, City. 

Sardinia - - Ambassador's residence, 11 Grosvenor street; Consul's office, 31 Old 
Jewry. 

Portugal - - Ambassador's residence, 57 Upper Seymour street ; Consul's office, 27 
New Broad street. City. 

Saxony - - - Ambassador's residence, 8 Chesterfield street, May Fair ; Consul's office, 
76 Cornhm. 

Sicily - - - Ambassador's residence, 15 Princes street. Cavendish square. 

Spain - - - - Ambassador's residence, 2 Cumberland street, Portman square ; Con- 
sul's office, 37 Broad street chambers. Old Broad street. 

Sweden - - - Ambassador's residence, 13 Halkin street, Belgrave square; Consul's 
office, 27 Great St Helen's, Bishopsgate street. 



MONEY. 

Travellers proceeding to the Continent, who might not feel dis- 
posed to carry any large sum about them, may supply themselves 
with Circular Exchange Notes, which may be obtained of any re- 
spectable banker in London, letters of credit, or bills of exchange, 
payable at any of the cities and principal commercial towns in 
foreign countries. 

The circular notes are drawn at seven days' sight, but are always 
paid on presentation, unless there is ground for suspicion. Their 
value is reduced into foreign money, at the current usance course of 
exchange on London, at the time and place of payment, subject to 
no deduction for commission, or any other charge whatever, unless 
the payment be required in some particular coin which bears a 
premium. They are, therefore, superior to any other mode of con- 
veying money, particularly letters of credit, which should never be 
taken abroad, unless it is the intention of the bearer to become 
stationary in one place. 

The exchange of course fluctuates with the fluctuations of com- 
merce ; but the usual value of the \l. sterling in the Netherlands 
is about 11 florins 90 cents, and on the Rhine about 6 dollars 20 
groschen, or 12 fl. 

Here it may be as well to observe that much caution is requisite 
when changing the money of one country for another. By reference 
to the tables, the relative value will easily be discovered. 

The florin of 60 kreutzers is now current in all parts of Germany. 

In Belgium and Switzerland French money is current, and the 
hotel keepers make out their bills in francs. Nothing can now be 
more simple than the monetary system. 



INTRODUCTION. — MONEY. 



DUTCH COINS. 



The money is sometimes calculated in guilders, or florins and 
cents, and sometimes in guilders, or florins and stivers. 

Silver. 
Florin or Guilder. Stivers. Cents. English. 

1 - - is 20 - - 100 - - or Is. 8d. 
3 - - 60 - - 800 - - 5 

There are also pieces of half-florins, quarter-florins, and ten and 
five-cent, pieces. 

The above coins will pass at Nymegen, and on board the packet 
to Cologne, at which place you must supply yourself with Prussian 
money. Travellers by land will find it necessary to make the ex- 
change at Dusseldorf. 

The Dutch 10-guilder piece is the best gold for Belgium, Holland, 
and Germany ; as they are generally paid by bankers at 9 fl. 85 or 
90 c. Innkeepers and shops allow the full value. 



FRENCH MONEY. 

d. 

5 centimes - - - 1 sou - - - ^ English 

10 ditto - - - - 2 ditto - - - 1 ditto 

10 sous - _ - - half a franc - 5 ditto 

20 ditto . - - - 1 franc - - - 10 ditto 

Other silver coins, 1 ^ franc, 2 francs, 5 francs ; the gold coins 
are the Napoleon, 20 francs ; the new Louis, 20 francs ; and the 
double Napoleon, 40 francs. Accounts in France are kept in francs 
and centimes. 

Sovereigns are the best money to take to France, and Napoleons 
are the most profitable coins to take into Switzerland. French 
money and the French language pass all over the Continent. 



For the sake of comparison, tables of the relative value of the 
coin of each country ; but for ordinary purposes, in travelling 
through Belgium, Prussia, Frankfort, the Duchies of Nassau, Darm- 
stadt, and BadeU; it is useful to know that 

PRUSSIAN MONEY, £. S. d, 

1 Prussian dollar (thaler) is 30 silver groschen, or . 3 

1 Silver groschen is 12 pfenning . , . .001^ 

1 Florin (called gulden) 60 kreutzers . . .018 

^ Florin 30 ditto . . . . 10 

There are pieces of 6, 3, and 1 kreutzers. 

The Prussian pieces of 10, 5, 2^ silver groschen are also current ; 
they are marked 8 ein thaler, 6 ein thaler, and 12 ein thaler ; 
against the florins they count 35, 17^, and 8^ kreutzers ; against 
English money they count as 1 shilling, 6 pence, and 3 pence. 



INTROD UCTION. GERMAN MONEY. 



•XI 



Table for reducing various coins at the usual rate of exchange 
into Prussian thalers. Example : a sovereign is worth 6 thalers 
20 sgr. ; a ten-pound note would produce 66 thalers 20 sgr. 



o 

Vl CO 


-2 


6 


03 

'^ ■•*1 
O 


ft 


•So 
P-I "^ 

=3 


Pieces 
of 5 frcs. 


o 


0) ^ 


Th. 


Sgr. 


Th. 


Sgr. 


Th. 


Sgr. 


Th. 


Sgr. 


Th. 


Sgr. 


Th. 


Sgr. 


Th. 


Sgr. 


Th. 


Sgr. 


1 


6 


20 


5 


20 


5 


20 


3 


4 


5 


11 


1 


10 





8 


1 


16 


2 


13 


13 


11 


10 


11 


10 


6 


8 


10 


22 


2 


20 


— 


16 


3 


2 


3 


20 


— 


17 


— 


17 


— 


9 


12 


16 


3 


4 


— 


— 


24 


4 


18 


4 


26 


20 


22 


20 


22 


20 


12 


16 


21 


14 


5 


10 


1 


2 


6 


4 


5 


33 


10 


28 


10 


28 


10 


15 


20 


26 


25 


6 


20 


1 


10 


7 


20 


6 


40 


— 


34 


— 


34 


— 


18 


24 


32 


6 


8 





1 


18 


9 


6 


7 


45 


20 


39 


20 


39 


20 


21 


28 


37 


17 


9 


10 


1 


26 


10 


22 


8 


53 


10 


45 


10 


45 


10 


25 


2 


42 


28 


10 


20 


2 


4 


12 


8 


9 


60 


— 


51 


— 


51 


— 


28 


6 


28 


9 


12 


— 


2 


12 


13 


24 


10 


66 


20 


56 


20 


56 


20 


31 


10 


53 


20 


13 


10 


2 


20 


15 


10 



DUCHIES OF NASSAU, BADEN, HAMBURG, DARMSTADT, AND 
FRANKFORT, MONEY TABLE, 

Showing the number of florins and kreutzers given in exchange 
for the various coins current in Germany. To reduce them into 
English money it is only necessary to recollect that three kreutzers 
are about equal to one penny ; consequently 36 would be one shilling. 
A pound sterling is generally received at 12 florins. 

Gold. 

k. 

Dutch 5- 
32 Ducat 
Dutch 10-flor .piece 9 50 „ 10 — , Frederic 



fl. k. fl. 

English sovereign 11 50 to 12 
French Napoleon 9 20 „ 9 



flor. 



fl. k. fl. k.- 

4 55 to 5 — 

5 SO „ 5 36 
9 40 „ 9 50 



Silver. 



5-Franc piece 
2-Franc piece 
1-Franc piece 



fl. 

2 



20 
56 
28 



30 Sous 
10 Sous 



fl. k. 

— 42 

— 14 



TABLE CONVERTING FLORINS INTO FRANCS, AND FRANCS INTO 

FLORINS. 



Florins. 
1 

2 
3 
4 
5 
6 
7 
8 



rancs 


Cents. 


Francs. 


2 


14 


1 


4 


29 


2 


6 


43 


3 


8 


57 


4 


10 


72 


5 


12 


86 


6 


15 


— 


7 


17 


14 


8 



Florins. 


Kreuz. 


— 


28 


— 


56 


1 


24 


1 


52 


2 


20 


2 


48 


3 


16 


3 


44 



su 



INTRODUCTION. — SWISS MONEY. 



Florins. 


Francs. 


Cents. 


Francs. 


Florins. 


Kreuz 


9 . . . 


19 


29 


9 . 


4 


12 


10 , . . 


21 


43 


10 . 


4 


40 


20 . . . 


42 


86 


20 . 


9 


20 


80 . . . 


64 


29 


80 . 


; 14 


— 


40 . . . 


85 


72 


40 . 


18 


40 


50 . . . 


107 


14 


50 . 


23 


20 


60 . . . 


128 


57 


60 . 


28 


— 


70 . 


150 


— 


70 . . 


82 


40 


80 . 


171 


43 


80 . 


87 


20 


90 . 


. 192 


86 


90 . 


42 


— 


100 . 


214 


29 


100 . 


46 


40 


500 . 


. 1071 


43 


500 . 


. 233 


20 


1000 . 


. 2142 


86 

SWISS 


1000 . 

MONEY. 


. 466 


40 



The complicated tables of coins published in almost every work 
relating to Switzerland can, to a person merely passing through the 
different cantons, be only embarrassing. The only thing I found 
necessary to understand was, how many batz went to a French franc, 
how many French francs to a Swiss franc, and how many Swiss 
batz to a five-franc piece. Although each canton has its own coin, 
which are distinguished by the several names of florins, batzen, 
rappen, angsters, deniers, hallars, and schillings ; and although the 
people of one canton will not take the coin of their neighbour, yet 
I never found any one person throughout my whole tour but whose 
eyes glistened at the sight of a five-franc piece. Indeed, the ac- 
counts are kept, and bills made out in French francs. If you get 
money from a banker, he will give it in five-franc pieces, or his own 
notes at fifty or a hundred francs each ; in short, as far as money is 
concerned, you could fancy yourself in France. Travellers taking- 
cash with them, instead of circular notes, should always prefer 
Napoleons to sovereigns. Except in the large towns, the people did 
not know the difference between a Napoleon and a sovereign, and 
invariably offered twenty francs for the latter. 

A Swiss franc is ten batz, or one franc and a half French ; seven 
batz is usually reckoned as one French franc ; one batz is about 
three sous French, or ten rappen ; a five-franc piece is usually 
reckoned at thirty-four and a half batz, sometimes at thirty-five. 

The bankers in Switzerland issue notes, which are readily taken 
at hotels and shops in the canton, without any deduction ; but if 
they cash each other's notes, they charge half per cent, discount : 
it is a very trifling loss compared with the inconvenience of carrying 
a bag full of silver by way of a balance across the mountains. 

N.B. It is always to he understood that French francs are meant, 
unless expressed to the contrary, in Switzerland. 



XUl 



COMPARATIVE TABLE OF MONEY, 
SHOWING THE VALUE OF FOREIGN COINS COMPARED WITH ENGLISH. 



France 


















and 




Prussia 




Dutch. 




English. 




Belgium. 


















Fr. 


Ct. 


Thl. 


Sgr. 


Pf. 


Fl. 


Cents. 


£. 


So. 


d. 


Far. 





1 








1 





oi 

















2 








2 





1 











1 





5 








5 





2i 











2 





10 








9 





H 








1 








20 





1 


7 





9 








2 








30 





2 


5 





14 








2 


3 





40 





3 


3 





19 








3 


3 





50 





4 








23 








4 


3 





60 





4 


9 





28 








5 


3 





70 





5 


7 





33 








6 


3 





80 





6 


5 





38 








7. 


2 





90 





7 


2 





42 








8 


2 


1 








8 








47 








9 


2 


2 








16 








94 





1 


7 





3 








24 





1 


41 





2 


4 


2 


4 





1 


2 





1 


89 





3 


1 


3 


5 





1 


10 





2 


36 





3 


11 


1 


6 





1 


18 





2 


83 





4 


8 


3 


7 





1 


26 





3 


30 





5 


6 


1 


8 





2 


4 





3 


78 





6 


3 


3 


9 





2 


12 





4 


25 





7 


1 


1 


10 





2 


20 





4 


72 





7 


10 


2 


11 





2 


28 





5 


19 





8 


8 





12 





3 


06 





5 


67 





9 


5 


2 


13 





3 


14 





6 


14 





IQ 


3 





14 





3 


22 





6 


61 





11 





2 


15 





4 


00 





7 


08 





11 


10 





16 





4 


08 





7 


56 





12 


7 


2 


17 





4 


16 





8 


03 





13 


4 


3 


18 





4 


24 





8 


50 





14 


2 


1 


19 





5 


02 





8 


97 





14 


11 


3 


20 





5 


10 





9 


45 





15 


9 


1 


21 





5 


18 





9 


92 





16 


6 


3 


22 





5 


26 





10 


39 





17 


4 


1 


23 





6 


04 





10 


86 





18 


1 


2 


24 





6 


12 





11 


34 





18 


11 





25 





6 


20 





11 


81 





19 


8 


2 



Although foreign money is not a legal tender in Belgium or Ger- 
many, it is received at the railway offices at the following rates of 
exchange : — 

1 Prussian Frederic - - - - fr. 21 

1 Pistole - - - - - 20 75 



XIV 

1 Ducat - - - - - fr. 11 50 

1 Sovereign - - - - - 25 20 

1 Dutch florin - - - - 2 50 

1 French crown - - - - 5 70 

1 Brabant thaler - - - - 5 68 

1 Prussian ditto - - - - 3 70 

1 Dutch (lO^fiorin piece) - - - 21 16 



A FEW HINTS ON SEA -SICKNESS. 



TEN MINUTES ADVICE. 

The comforts and conveniences of sea-travelling have been brought 
to a degree of perfection which some years ago was not even con- 
templated. Owners and captains of vessels find it their interest 
now to rival each other in providing suitable accommodation for 
passengers, both male and female. The dangers of the sea, and the 
hardships to which navigation, under the most judicious direction 
is exposed, from many uncontrollable events, require that every pre- 
caution should be adopted consistent equally with the safety of the 
ship and those on board. 

There is one distressing circumstance of very early occurrence 
among sea-travellers, which hangs over their heads in terrorem long 
before they meet it, and which frequently carries with it a greater 
dread than either storm or wreck ; amounting, indeed, in many in- 
stances, to a complete prohibition of travelling by water ; and where, 
as in the generality of cases, it is peculiarly distressing, no adequate 
idea can be formed of its severity. We allude to that giddiness of 
the head, nausea, and vomiting, well known under the name of sea- 
sickness, — a subject to which we shall shortly have occasion to re- 
turn. 

As sea-travelling constitutes an active kind of bodily motion, it is 
frequently resorted to by convalescents, and to consumptive patients 
it often is the last resource, but it is wrong to delay it till all other 
remedies have failed ; for it is not in the last stage of consumption, 
when the lungs are ulcerated, or when an abscess has discharged its 
contents into the chest, and that the thin acrimonious matter has 
been communicated to the blood, that benefit can be expected from 
sea voyages. The changes of sea and climate, indeed, powerfully 
co-operate in effecting changes in the human system ; but if the 
disease has preyed too much on the vitals of a patient, or if he is 
spitting blood, the motion of the vessel must necessarily prove inju- 
rious. On the other hand, the debilitated, the nervous, and parti- 
cularly the hypochondriacal, cannot resort to a better remedy than 
a short voyage. 



XV 

Sea air is prescribed by physicians in a variety of complaints, such 
as those already mentioned, in consequence of it being considered of 
a more healthy nature than that on land ; though, in its component 
parts, it is not known to possess a greater quantity of the vital prin- 
ciple, or oxygen, on which health depends. It is, nevertheless, ac- 
knowledged to be a most powerful and valuable remedy, and is 
resorted to with decided success in most cases accompanied with 
debility. 

It is recommended, previous to embarking on a sea voyage, to take 
some gentle aperient medicine, as a necessary preliminary, by way 
of counteracting the effects which may arise not only from sudden 
change of air, but from equally sudden change of diet. 

SECURING A BERTH. 

By a berth on ship-board is understood that part of the vessel 
(abaft, midships, or forwards) which you may choose to occupy, or 
which may be assigned to you as your place during the passage, and 
particularly that place where you sleep. The following are relative 
advantages which are not unworthy of consideration : — 

In midships, that is, about the middle of the ship, there is less 
motion than farther forward or nearer the stern ; consequently, an 
individual is neither so liable nor so soon attacked by sea-sickness 
here, and is sooner relieved from it than any other person, equally 
predisposed, whose berth may be nearer the bows or closer to the 
stern ; in consequence of the greater motions at these extremes, 
which always increases or diminishes in proportion as you recede 
from, or advance towards, the centre of motion, or midships, whether 
it be in smooth water or a rough sea ; hence sea-sickness may be 
either alleviated or aggravated in the ratio of the distance from the 
centre of the ship. 

When out of bed or on deck, people attacked with sea-sickness 
should assume the sitting or inclined posture, and support the head, 
as more convenient than that of standing or walking, which never 
fails to increase the nausea. 

When sea-sickness is distressing and continues long, there is con- 
siderable danger, if the vomiting efforts are violent, of rupturing a 
biood-vessel either of the lungs or of the brain, as has frequently 
happened, and death has followed ; also there is danger of inducing 
apoplexy, and even blindness. Females are less able than males to 
support the concussions which sea-sickness causes to the constitution; 
and those of delicate habits are attacked with it from the slightest 
causes, and longest afflicted with it. Many, however, are fortunately 
exempted entirely. 

To remove or even to palliate the unpleasant symptoms which 
characterise this incidental malady, until recently, has baffled the 
skill of the most experienced of the faculty. Indeed, it is impossible 
to convey any correct notions of this sickness to one who has never 



XVI 

experienced it.* Independent of the vertigo, nausea, and vomiting, 
there is a prevalent languor and listlessness, an exhaustion of 
strength, and confusion of ideas, to which only death would seem 
to afford relief. After vomiting anything up that has been eaten or 
drank intermediately, there is a short respite to these sensations ; 
they, however, soon return with all their virulence, exhausting the 
strength of the individual, until he finds again temporary relief in 
the arms of confused and interrupted sleep. 

When the vomiting commences it should be assisted by drinking 
plentifully of tepid water ; and when it ceases, the patient should 
He down in a horizontal posture, with his head raised on a pillow 
and towards the stern ; and never to suffer the vomiting to conti- 
nue without having plenty of tepid water to clear off the stomach. 
This will afford the greatest relief for the time. Now, as sea-sick- 
ness is very frequently attended with very salutary advantages, it 
ought not to be suddenly checked if the symptoms are mild, but to 
let it continue, assisting, as already observed, the vomiting with 
plentiful dilution to prevent straining. A little weak brandy and 
water is the best drink for common use. 

CHANGE OF AIR, CLIMATE, AND DIET — ADMONITIONS TO TRAVELLERS, 
BOTH BY SEA AND LAND, IN COLD OR WARM CLIMATES. 

Although change of air implies some change of climate, in the ex- 
tended acceptation of this term, yet, by the former expression is 
commonly meant a removal from one place to another in the same 
country or climate ; though the striking improvement produced in 
the health by a removal for a few weeks only from the tainted at- 
mosphere of a city to the pure and invigorating air of the country 
in the same latitude, is the subject of constant observation. Even a 
change from one part of the country to another is often attended 
with remarkable benefit, and that when there is little or no appa- 
rent difference between the two situations. But, as the leading cir- 
cumstances which require consideration in prescribing change of air 
are, the nature of the disease, the constitution of the patient, and 
the quality of the air best suited to these, when the object of travel- 
ling either by sea or land comes strictly within the province of the 
physician, who will adapt the circumstances to the case, it would be 
superfluous hereto generalize, or point out the distinctions best suited 
to each. 

The influence of climate on the animal economy is also now so 
well known and appreciated by the more observant part of the pro- 
fession, that it would be waste of time, in a work of this nature, to 
enlarge upon the advantages which may be derived from a well- 
timed and judicious change of it in the treatment of disease, and the 

* Mr Beckford, in one of his letters, speaks thus of sea-sickness: " Rather than pass a 
month in the qualms of sea-sickness, I would consent to live three by candle-light in the 
deepest den you could discover, stuck close to a foul midnight hag, as mouldy as a rotten 
apple." 



XVll 

renovation of health. The removal, for example, from a cold, humid, 
and variable climate to one which is warm, dry, and more agreeable, 
is well known to be productive of the most beneficial effects on a 
large class of invalids when other therapeutical agents are of little 
avail ; while, on the other hand, a contrary change is as certainly 
attended by a deterioration of the health, and often by the super- 
vention of fatal diseases, even in persons previously in the enjoyment 
of good health. And when we reflect on the powerful influence of a 
warm, dry air, on almost all the functions of the animal economy, 
but more especially its obvious agency and equable distribution of 
the circulating fluids over the whole system, and particularly its 
effect in augmenting the activity of the circulation on the superficial 
vessels of the body, and in diminishing in the same proportion the 
congestion of the internal vessels which frequently occurs in chro- 
nic diseases, we have a satisfactory explanation of much of the be- 
nefit which invalids experience by a removal from a cold to a warm 
climate. 

Without dipping farther into this subject, the following admoni- 
tions are offered for the benefit of travellers either by sea or land, 
and particularly after sea voyages : — 

1. To avoid extremes of heat and cold. 

2. Never to expose yourself to the night air, if it can be avoided ; 
nor too much to the rays of the sun, the wind, and the rain. 

3. Never to sleep upon deck, let the weather be ever so mild, and 
particularly by moonlight in warm climates. 

4. Not to drink cold liquids while over-heated, or in a state of 
perspiration ; during which, to avoid all draughts or currents of 
air. 

5. Never lie down in wet clothes, nor with wet feet. 

6. Never eat or drink to repletion. 

7. Keep your bowels moderately open ; and hence may be avoided 
many troubles both of body and mind, as well by sea as by land. 

As regards diet, travellers should be well acquainted with what 
agrees or disagrees with their constitution ; and observe those rules 
which custom has established in favour of their health ; at least, so 
far as circumstances will admit. 

Strict attention should be observed with regard to eating or drink- 
ing, dress, exercise, and rest ; conforming, at the same time, to the 
mode of life of the most sober class of the inhabitants of the climate 
in which they reside. 

Exercise of a violent kind after dinner, and more particularly so 
in warm climates than in cold ones, is hurtful ; people, therefore, 
who are at sea, or who travel on horseback or in a vehicle whose 
motion is rather violent, will act prudently if they tat and drink 
sparingly. 

Strong liquors should be taken in the greatest moderation, and 
always sufficiently diluted with water, in warm southern climates. 

The afternoon's nap (the siesta so called) though it perfectly 



XVlll 

agrees with foreigners in Spain and Italy and the East Indies, is, 
nevertheless, liable to bring on apoplexy in cold climates, where ani- 
mal food and soporiferous malt liquors are used in great quantity. 
Travellers, however, in warm climates, who may be invited to an 
afternoon's nap, ought to observe that its duration be proportioned 
to the quick or tardy digestion of the individual to whom it is pro- 
posed. A quarter of an hour, or at most, half an hour, is sufficient ; 
and to prevent this indulgence from being carried to an injurious 
excess, the sleeper should be roused before the expiration of an 
hour. 

To take the siesta, or afternoon's nap, in a horizontal position 
would be prejudicial. The best posture for this kind of rest is in an 
arm chair or a canopy, where one may be accommodated to the 
half-inclined position, a little turned to the left side, the head well 
supported and elevated. At the same time, everything likely to 
interrupt the circulation of the blood, such as tight collars, necker- 
chiefs, wristbands, garters, and ligatures of every description, ought 
to be removed, or violent head-ache, if nothing worse, will be expe- 
rienced. 

Sleeping with the windows open in hot climates is so unwhole- 
some, that many have hardly time enough to repent their impru- 
dence. 

Travellers on foot should never sleep under the shadow of a tree, 
nor near a hemp field. After a long journey it is unwholesome to 
make a plentiful meal, or sit near a great fire. 

In warm climates, travellers should use animal food abstemiously, 
particularly at supper, in order to guard against malignant fevers, 
which are seldom easily removed. 

Sweet or boiled wines, such as are met with in the papal domi- 
nions on the coast of the Adriatic, considerably retard digestion ; and 
as they have a tendency to inflame the blood, they ought to be very 
sparingly used. 

Fresh fruit, and even the ripest grapes, relax the stomach in hot 
climates ; and when an immoderate quantity of them is consumed 
at one time, particularly if bread be omitted to be eaten with them, 
they are productive of the most dangerous consequences. 

Thirst is more easily quenched by eating fresh fruit and a morsel 
of bread than by drinking water ; and if no fruit be at hand, it is 
better to add a small quantity of vinegar or the juice of a lemon to 
it, than to drink it by itself. 

Persons who have perspired freely from the heat of the sun should 
shelter themselves as much as possible during the falling of the dew. 
If this cannot be avoided, they ought, by no means, to sit down. 
Continual exercise is favourable to perspiration, and lessens the bad 
consequences to which people are exposed by the cold air. 

An empty stomach is more liable to infection than when it con- 
tains food ; travellers, therefore, should never visit a sick person in 
the morning before breakfast ; nor, in the presence of the sick, whe- 



XIX 



ther on ship-board, hospitals, or other places allotted for the same 
purpose, ought they to swallow their saliva. A glass of wine with 
a little sugar and lemon is a convenient safeguard on these occasions. 

As many of the preceding observations apply equally to cold as 
well as warm climates, so do the following ; and which all who 
value health, either at sea or on shore, will do well strictly to at- 
tend to. 

Those whose circumstances may not permit them to put on dry 
clothes, should keep their bodies in constant motion till the clothes 
become dry again by the natural heat of the body. 

Fresh killed meats, vegetables, and fresh fish, are preferable to 
any other food ; and the simpler the nourishment the better. 

By attention to the preceding advice, as relates to health and 
comfort, you will avoid the principal if not all the diseases of the 
climate ; and should it be your fate to be taken with any of them, 
your chance will be the greater in favour of recovery in the propor- 
tion you have endeavoured to avoid them. 

Indolence being a powerful promoter of the scurvy, proper exer- 
cise, therefore, becomes necessary, such as some active diversion of 
that description which imparts to the mind both pleasure and hila- 
rity, such as dancing, &c. The activity of the whole machine is en- 
livened by joy and cheerfulness ; the eyes sparkle, the action of the 
heart and arteries is increased, the circulation of all the fluids is 
more vigorous and uniform — so do they prevent, as well as facilitate 
the cure of, diseases in general, both by sea and land. Evacuations 
which are moderate, a proper state of perspiration, and all food of 
aperient quality and easy of digestion, may be considered as con- 
tributors to a joyful state of mind. A moderate degree of joy re- 
moves the noxious particles of the body, and, in this respect, is equal, 
nay superior, in salubrity to bodily exercise ; and gaiety, cheerful- 
ness, mirth, exultation, rapture, and ectasy, are the different de- 
grees of this affection, all aiding in the preservation of health, when 
not caried to an excess, or too long continued, 

GENERAL HINTS FOR TRAVELLERS. 

1. Before the tourist leaves England he should endeavour to lay 
down a certain route, from which he should not deviate, if he can 
avoid it ; and also determine beforehand the place or places to which 
he wishes his letters to be addressed to him. 

2. In travelling by the diligence in France, if in the summer or 
when the weather is mild, always secure a place in the coupe ; it is 
by far the best part for seeing the country ; but in Italy, by vettu- 

ini, it is the worst part of the carriage. 

3. Endeavour to procure the best information about contraband 
goods ; and never give in a wrong name either at the gates of a town 
or in the town itself, in case of its running you into serious inconve- 
niences. 

4. Always purchase the map or plan of the large towns which you 
visit, then go to an eminence, and with it in your hand, request your 



XX INTRODUCTION. — MODES OF TRAVELLING. 

guide to point out to you all the principal objects : in this way you 
will soon become acquainted even with your whereabouts. 

5. Beware of having sealed letters or packets in your trunk, as 
you are subject to a fine, and also to be thrown into prison. 

6. If you pass over a bridge or through a river in the night, never 
place much confidence in your postillions, who are sometimes intoxi- 
cated or sleepy; and never at that time traverse a large or lonely forest. 

7. Always make up your luggage the night before your journey, 
and never leave it to be done till the last moment, unless you wish 
constantly to be losing something or other. 

8. If you wish to economise, take a ready-furnished lodging, where 
you can do as you wish without observation ; and where you have 
to pay guards, keepers of museums, and other public places, go in 
company, which will materially lessen your expense in seeing them. 

9. When your hotel-keeper asks you what you wish for dinner, ask 
him, in return, what he has got, and take that, if you can ; other- 
wise, if you order anything particular, you will have to pay for that 
and the ordinary dinner besides. If he has a table d'hote, dine at it, 
for you will have a much better and cheaper dinner than if you dined 
alone ; besides you may meet with some one who can give you very 
useful information about the localities of the place. 

10. If you are at a bad inn, eat plain food, and do not ask for dif- 
ferent wines, but put up with the ordinaire ; otherwise, you will only 
lose your money for your pains. 

11. Never let the traveller forget, that if his deportment is gen- 
tlemanly, obliging, and polite, he will always be better served than 
those who are rude and overbearing. Never quarrel about a trifle. 



MODES OF TRAVELLING. 

TRAVELLING IN BELGIUM AND HOLLAND. 

Posting is according to the old French system ; namely, for each 
horse per post, 1 fr. 50 c, for postillion, 15 c. 

Postillions, however, who behave well generally receive 1 fr. 50 c, 
which should never on any account be exceeded. Formerly one 
postillion was allowed to drive three horses only, but they may now 
drive four. This law also applies to France. 

The conveyances through Holland by water is explained in page 7. 

TRAVELLING IN FRANCE. POSTING. 

The French posting (Livre de Poste) is indispensable for persons 
travelling post : it may be had in all towns, and at the post-houses. 

Since the 1st. Jan. 1840, distances are no longer calculated by 
"postes," but by kilometres and myriametres. 1 kilometre (t. e., 
1000 metres) = nearly 5 furlongs or |ths of an English mile ; 1 
myriametre=10 kilom.=nearly 6j Eng. m. (or 6 m. 1 fur. 156 yds.) 

The postmaster's authorized charge is : — 

For each horse, 2 francs or 40 sous per myriametre, or 20 cen- 
times per kilom. 



INTRODUCTION. — MODES OF TRAVELLING. XXI 

The /7o^#i7/ion is entitled to only 1 franc per myriametre, or 10 
centimes per kilom. ; but it is usual to give him 2 francs per myria- 
metre. 

The average rate of posting does not much exceed a myriametre 
per hour, including stoppages. 

In fixing the number of horses to be attached, the postmaster 
takes into account the nature of the carriage, and quantity of lug- 
gage. A landau or berlin requires four horses ; a chariot will re- 
quire three ; while a britzka, holding the same number of persons, 
will need only two. 

Carriages are divided into three classes : — 

1. Cabriolets and light caleches, without a front seat or having 
one narrower than the back seat, must have two horses. 

2. Limonieres, heavier carriages, chariots (coupe'es) : to these the 
postmaster may attach three horses, even when they contain only 
two persons. 

3. The heaviest kind of carriages, berlines, landaus, barouches, 
having a front seat as wide as the back, four horses. 

The limitation of the number of horses on first setting out on a 
journey is of importance, because you are obliged to take on from 
every post station (except in the case of supplemental horses) the 
same number of horses that brought you to the relay. 

On hilly stages one or more extra (cheval de supplement) are 
required to be attached to carriages ; and at the entry into and de- 
parture from certain large towns the postmaster is allowed to charge 
for a number of kilometres exceeding the real distance of the stage. 

The price of posting shall always be paid in advance. 

No carriage shall pass another on the road, unless some accident 
happen to that which preceded. 

This does not relate to mail posts or estafettes. 

Each post shall be run in the space of an hour. 

No traveller shall force or maltreat the horses, under the penalty 
of making full restitution for the injury. 

All turnpikes, and dues on the road, shall be paid by the traveller. 

TRAVELLING CARRIAGES. 

If the traveller be accompanied by his family, or wish to pursue 
his journey perfectly at his ease, or with his own particular party, 
and have left his carriage on the other side of the water, he may 
hire a travelling carriage at most of the towns on the coast. 

These vehicles may be hired at almost any price, according to 
their appearance and convenience : but the usual charge for a com- 
fortable carriage, from Calais or Boulogne to Paris, is about 100 
francs. 

Persons who travel in their own carriage will find a second-hand 
strong-built English chariot, or coach (according to the number of 
the family), the best ; for although foreign carriages are much 
cheaper at first, they do not bear half the work. A carriage for 
the Continent should have a drag chain, an iron shoe, and an iron 



XXll 



INTRODUCTION. — MODES OF TRAVELLING. 



hook, anti-attrition grease, and a box containing linch-pins, tools, 
nails, bolts, &c. 

TRAVELLING BY THE MAIL. 

Persons who wish to proceed rapidly may travel by the mails. 
These commodious vehicles are made to carry two, three, or four per- 
sons, and are supplied with horses at the posthouses. Each passenger 
may carry a sac de nuit, or portmanteau, weighing twenty -five 
kilograms. The price of each place is as follows : — 

MALLE-POSTES FROM PARIS. 
From the Post office, Rue J. J. Rousseau. 





Hours 


Number 




Length 


Price 


Destination. 


of 


of 


Distances. 


of 


of 




Departure. 


Places. 




Journey. 


Places. 








Kilometres. 


Hours. 


/. c. 


Besan9cn 


6 P.M. 


3 


405 


32 


73 35 


Bordeaux 






j> 


3 


562 


36 


101 15 


Brest 






» 


3 


596 


44 


107 80 


Calais . 






>» 


2 


270 


18 


48 65 


Cherbourg 






»> 


3 


343 


22 


61 80 


Forbach 






j> 


2 


379 


25 


68 10 


Havre . 






» 


2 


213 


13 


39 40 


Lille . 






j> 


2 


241 


16 


44 60 


Limoges 






»> 


4 


380 


28 


68 60 


Lyon 






» 


4 


468 


33 


84 35 


Nantes . 






)i 


3 


391 


26 


70 90 


Sedan . 






it 


3 


257 


19 


46 90 


Strasbourg 






J> 


3 


456 


33 


82 95 


Saint-Etienn 


e 




»» 


4 


460 


35 


82 60 



TRAVELLING BY DILIGENCES. 

The French diligence is a most curious and unique machine ; it is 
a strange compound of the English stage waggon and coach ; and 
its singularity possesses all the conveniences of each, without their 
defects. The inside is divided into three bodies. In front above is 
what is called the cabriolet, with leathern cover, like the body of 
our one-horse chaise, to defend both the head and legs from the 
weather. These seats, which hold three persons, are the mostj 
pleasant part of the vehicle ; and, being elevated, afford an oppor-* 
tunity of seeing the country. 

The inside passengers are seated completely at their ease ; but the 
smallness of the windows, and the manner in which the seats are 
arranged, prevent them from enjoying much view of the country. 

The regulations respecting the places are admirable. The seats 
are all numbered, and are claimed by the travellers according to the 
order in which they have booked : the person who first took a place 
has the first choice. 

A conductor is attached to each machine : his proper business is 
to take care of the luggage, and this duty he performs with the 
strictest integrity. He accompanies the diligence through the whole 
of the journey. 



FARES FROM PARIS. 



XX 111 



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xxiv INTRODUCTION, — MODES OF TRAVELLING. 

TRAVELLING IN GERMANY. 

There are three methods of travelling in Germany : 1. In a post- 
chaise ( Eootrapost). 2. In the post-coach ( Schnellpost, or Eilwa- 
geii). 3. Or you may travel with a hired coachman, who employs 
the same horses throughout the journey ( Lohnkutscher ). Each of 
these methods shall be separately considered. 

POSTING. 

One florin forty-five kreutzers is charged for each horse for one 
post of two German miles. The postmasters of large towns are en- 
titled to fifteen kreutzers extra. 

A light open carriage , holding four, without baggage, may be drawn 
by two horses : A heavy trunk counts as one person. If the post- 
boy, driving two horses, cannot sit upon the box of the carriage, 
fifteen kreutzers extra is charged per post. 

The postilion is entitled by the tarif to receive for one post : 

Driving two horses 40 kr. 

— three diito 50 „ 

— four ditto . , 1 fl. 5 „ 

The Schnellpost or Diligence travels at the rate of from six to 
eight English miles an hour ; and costs about one penny a mile. 

It is not unusual in Germany to contract with a coachman to per- 
form a journey of considerable length, such as 200 or 300 English 
miles, with the same horses ; such a coachman is called in German 
Lohnkutscher ; they are to be met with in most of the large towns ; 
the Lohnkutscher is similar to an Italian Vetturini, ready to convey 
travellers in every direction. At Frankfort, Mayence, Heidleberg, 
&c., there are, in the travelling season, plenty of returns always to 
be met with : the board attached to each has the name of the place 
to which they belong. 

The usual vetturini carriage is a light sort of caleche, capable of 
being shut in w^ith glass windows, and of accommodating four per- 
sons. 

The cost of such a conveyance is about six or seven thalers a day 
in southern Germany, ten to twelve florins — every charge for tolls 
and ferries included, except Trink-geld — about ten gros the day. 

TRAVELLING IN SWITZERLAND. 

Post horses up to the present time are only partially established 
in Switzerland, but the deficiency is supplied by a set of roguish 
voituriers, who take the liberty of charging two days' hire when the 
journey occupies but one ; that is, one going and one returning. It 
is, therefore, a bad plan, at least it is an expensive one, to engage 
too many carriages during a tour ; taking a carriage, for instance, 
at Schafi'hausen to Constance, Rhinethal to Ragatz, and back to 
Zurich, and there discharging it, you would have to pay but one 
day's return ; by the same rule, making the tour and discharging 



INTRODUCTION. — MODES OF TEAVELLING. XXV 

the voiturier at Basle, you would have but two days' return, after 
usino- it for six or eight weeks. The hire for a carriage and two 
horses is twenty francs a day, including drink-money ; carriage with 
one horse, twelve to fifteen francs. When not travelling, they charge 
half-price ; as excursions are to be made frequently, I think it is 
the most convenient, pleasant, and not a dear way to travel, parti- 
cularly if there are four in a party, taking care to order the vett to 
meet you at every available point ; for instance, when you are set 
down at Art, for the purpose of ascending the Righi, order your vett 
to meet you at Kussnach on the following day, to drive you to Lu- 
cerne. At Zurich return carriages are to be met with more plen- 
tiful than at any other town. The difference between a return and 
the others is this, that going one day's journey, you pay but for one 
instead of two. When hiring a carriage (not a return) to go a short 
distance, say from Thun to Berne, always start in the morning, 
which enables the vett to return to his home the same day ; thus you 
will save half a day's hire. <f 

THE CHAR-A-BANC 

is only to be used where and when no other description of convey- 
ance can be made available, or where none others can be got. They 
must have been invented by the society called Shakers, for a ride of 
a few miles will, I am pretty sure, shake your resolution as to using 
them a second time. They, however, possess one advantage ; that 
is, that you can get out without much difficulty. It consists of a 
seat like a gig body turned sideways, fastened (one cannot call it 
suspended) between four low wheels. Mr Cooper, who, I presume, 
is or was a spare man when he made his excursions, says, that it will 
carry three in comfort ! He must mean American comfort ; for I 
can assure my readers that I experienced anything but English, or 
even Irish, comfort with three insides. 

CHAISE-A-PORTEURS 

'is a very pleasant and safe conveyance for ladies to cross the moun- 
tains. It is simply an arm-chair fastened between two poles, and 
carried by two men in the fashion of a sedan, and not, as some 
writers have stated, carried on the shoulders ; at least, I have ai- 
rways seen it carried in the way I have described. Formerly, six 
[or eight men were the number used for each, but three men are 
fequite sufficient ; and even this number makes it a very expensive 
imode of travelling. The usual charge is six francs each porter, 
[making the expense from Andermat to Meyringen (four days, two 
Igoing and two returning), seventy-two francs, besides drink-money. 
'Where there are several ladies crossing any of the mountains on 
Imules, it is advisable to have one attached to the party, as some 
Iparts are so very dangerous that it is absolutely necessary to dis- 
count. A chaise-h-poi'teurs will enable ladies to cross those places 



XXVI INTRODUCTION. — MODES OF TRAVELLING. 

without danger. When descending steep precipices in these 
chairs, it is the better plan to sit with the back foremost. Not the 
least danger is to be apprehended, as the men selected for this 
office are sure-footed beyond conception ; and by this means the 
most timid persons may cross the most difficult passes with perfect 
security. 

DILIGENCES 

travel on all the principal roads through Switzerland. They are 
mostly fitted with a coupe (sometimes open in front), interieur, and 
rotonde ; but frequently there is no difference in the prices. The 
seats are numbered, and the first who applies gets the best place : 
they carry any quantity of luggage, but charge very high for over- 
weight. The hour for leaving the principal towns is generally about 
twelve o'clock, and they also carry the letters. There is, however, 
one great inconvenience in travelling by diligence in some parts ; 
for instance, if you wished to go from Berne to Lausanne, you cannot 
secure your place until the book-keeper ascertains what places are 
vacant on the arrival of the diligence from Basle. It frequently 
happens that when it does arrive there are no places, or, at least, 
the most objectionable ones only. Private carriages are, therefore, 
to be preferred ; for, although they are not so expeditious as a 
diligence, they are more comfortable, not much more expensive for 
two or more persons, and your journey can be regulated as you 
think proper. Of course this uncertainty does not apply to any 
place where the diligence starts from^ but only to towns through 
which they pass. The conducteur's fee is included in the fare, as 
in France. Changing the coaches when going out of one canton 
into another is also unpleasant. On these occasions keej3 an eye 
to your luggage, and see that it is transferred from one coach to 
another instead of being sent into the hotel or coach-office. 

HORSES, MULES, AND GUIDES 

are very necessary to cross the mountains. Those, however, who 
use them, should trust implicitly to the firm foot of their beasts, 
without pretending to direct them ; they are customed to carry 
goods and travellers across the different passes ; indeed, I might say, 
worn out in the service, and so well acquainted with the roads 
over the rocks, which are often on the very edge of a precipice, 
that the least attempt to guide them would be destruction. It is 
hardly possible for travellers not to feel some alarm ; it is, there- 
fore, always prudent to dismount, to escape those terrors which the 
reason cannot conquer; otherwise, there is no real danger while 
you suffer the beast to follow his own way. These, as well as 
carriages, must be paid for both ways, but the prices differ ; the 
hire of a horse or mule to go up the Righi is nine francs a day ; 
this includes a person to lead it. At Chamounix, the hire of a 
mule is six francs a day, but the owner does not supply a person 



INTRODUCTION. — LUGGAGE. XXVii 

to lead ; you are, therefore, compelled to hire a guide to brino- back 
the mule. One guide, however, will be sufficient for two or three 
mules. 

STEAM-PACKETS 

are now established on the lakes of Geneva, Constance, Neufchatel, 
Bienne, Zurich, Thun, Lucerne, and Wallenstadt. They are neatly 
fitted up, and some contain well-appointed restaurants, at moderate 
charges. This is a great advantage to travellers. The row boats 
formerly in use were exceedingly tedious and expensive ; and the 
respective owners, forming themselves into companies (like the 
muleteers), enjoyed a sort of monopoly, which enabled them to fleece 
the traveller to their heart's content. In those places where it will 
be necessary to resort to boats, the fares, as authorized by the ma- 
gistrates, should be enquired for. 

LUGGAGE. 

Much luggage will be found inconvenient, troublesome, and very 
expensive ; on the Belgian railroads, every pound of luggage is 
charged for, except such as you can carry into the carriage with you ; 
in Germany, the heavy luggage is sent by an extra conveyance, 
which causes a separation for some days ; on the Rhine, although you 
may take on board almost any quantity, it is not very pleasant to 
be running about Coblentz, Mayence, or any other much frequented 
large town, looking for lodgings, at the tail of a truck with ten or a 
doaen trunks and portmanteaus. When engaging a voiturier, the 
weight of your luggage is an important consideration, and you must 
pay accordingly. These little inconveniences should, therefore, in- 
duce the traveller to weigh well the articles it is indispensable to 
take ; but this must, also, in a great measure depend upon the length 
of time to be devoted to travel. A portmanteau, with a small car- 
pet bag with dressing things and change of linen, and hat case, 
should be sufficient for a gentleman taking an entire tour of the con- 
tinent. For a run of six weeks or three months, a carpet bag and 
hat case. 

Advice to ladies on this subject is rather more difficult ; but I am 
sure they will pardon my stinginess when I offer it with a view of 
saving them from much personal annoyance and anxiety. A strong 
black leather trunk, about two feet six inches long, eighteen inches 
wide, and eighteen inches high, with a division about half way up, 
but leaving a wider space on one side than on the other, and a tray 
to lift in and out, will be found large enough to contain four dresses, 
one or two bonnets in the smaller division, the linen in tho larger 
division, and all the finery, such as lace collars, &c., &c., &c., may 
be placed in the tray : this trunk should not have a flat top, but 
ought to have an oil-cloth cover, and corded outside. A small car- 
pet bag to carry articles for the toilet, night-clothes, &c., will always 
be found indispensable. 



XXVIU INTRODUCTION.— LUGGAGE. 

N. B. — A black satin dress, with long and short sleeves, and cape, 
will, on ordinary occasions, be found to answer as a morning and 
dinner dress ; the black sleeves and cape of the forenoon I have 
often seen replaced in the evening by a lace cardinal and snow-like 
arms. An extra box for seven or eight volumes of guide books may 
now be dispensed with, as this volume will be sufficient (it is hoped) 
for any reasonable traveller : — 

Extract from a review of the first edition of this work in the Illus- 
trated Magazine of August, 1844. — " The traveller who could go 
wrong with this book in his possession would lose himself in a sen- 
try box." 

In Switzerland, those who intend to be always accompanied by a 
guide need not be so particular as to the size of their wardrobe as 
those who only occasionly may require their attendance. In the 
latter case, it will be necessary to send your luggage from town to 
town by the roulage. The transport of luggage by the diligence is 
enormously high. A portmanteau, weighing only sixty pounds, 
costs, from Schaff hausen to Zurich, six francs ; while the fare in the 
diligence, the same distance, is only six francs six batz ; therefore, 
by using the roulage, fifty or sixty francs may be saved in the course 
of your tour, in the transport of luggage alone. But happy is the 
man who travels with no more luggage than he can cram into his 
pockets. A smart appearance is not necessary to secure a welcome 
in Switzerland. Innkeepers, as I before said, are generally intelli- 
gent men ; and so thoroughly used are they to travellers on foot, 
that pedestrians invariably receive the same attention which is be- 
stowed upon the more fashionable tourist ; and it is not uncommon 
occurrence to see blond and blouse elbowing each other at a table- 
d'hote. Knapsacks are very much used by pedestrians ; but unless 
carried by a guide or a German student, they are not at all desira- 
ble. Like others, I provided myself with a knapsack, but a very 
short trial convinced me that it was making a toil of a pleasure, I, 
consequently, put a razor, soap, hair brush, and tooth brush, a few 
articles for the toilet, into one pocket of my blouse ; a clean shirt, 
pair of worsted stockings, and a pair of thin shoes, I crammed into 
another, and departed for Constance, having forwarded my port- 
manteau, including my knapsack, to Zurich. The best costume for 
pedestrians is a dark coloured suit, made of very light material, over 
which put a blouse, a pair of double-soled shoes and gaiters, worsted 
stockings, broad-brim straw hat, Berlin gloves, and a water-proof 
cape ; a flannel waistcoat next to the skin will absorb the perspira- 
tion and prevent chilliness on the mountains. Thus equipped, with 
twenty napoleons in your pocket, a smattering of French (if you can 
throw in a few words of German, so much the better), you may tra- 
vel through Switzerland at an expense not exceeding seven francs a 
day, except when it is necessary to hire a guide ; this, however, in 
the tour 1 have laid down, will occur but seldom ; two or more friends 
should always trave together. When claiming your luggage at the 



INTRODUCTION. — ^^HINTS TO PEDESTRIANS. XXIX 

diligence office, should you be told pas encore arrive » Monsieur ^ re- 
quest to look over the luggage, as they frequently cannot read the 
name ; it occurred to me on two occasions, although my portmanteau 
was lying in the office at the time. 

TWELVE VALUABLE HINTS TO PEDESTRIANS IN SWITZERLAND. 

First. — Before you start in the morning, rub the inside of your 
stockings with candle-grease to prevent blistering. 

Second, — When you commence ascending a mountain, walk slowly 
and make short stages. 

Third. — Never drink copiously from the cold springs. 

Fourth.- — Before you drink, always wash your hands ; by so doing 
you cool the blood and diminish the thirst. 

Fifth. — Carry a patent leather cup to enable you to drink ; a 
small flask of kirsche-wasser, to prevent the water giving you the 
cholic. 

Sixth, — When crossing glaciers, walk behind your guide at a re- 
spectful distance ; should he fall in you need not follow him. 

Seventh. — Always prefer the mornings and evenings for walk- 
ing ; to do so, it may be superfluous to add, that you must get up 
early. 

Eighth. — Make it a rule, says a certain writer, to ascend the ivest 
side of a mountain in the morning. I say ditto, unless you should 
happen to be on the eastern side of the said mountain ; in that case, 
it will be difficult, I guess. 

Ninth. — When a long valley lies in your route in hot weather, 
hire a conveyance, even should you be a determined pedestrian ; 
you will save in time what you lose in pocket. 

Tenth. — When you feel tired walking up a mountain, and any of 
your friends are riding a mule, take hold of his (the mule's) tail — a 
capital expedient to save your exertions and six francs. 

N. B. It is recommended not to avail yourself of this hint too 
soon after the beast leaves the stable, or he may kick ! 

Eleventh. — When you arrive at an inn for the night, if your feet 
are tender, bathe them in common brandy, and repeat the operation 
on your stockings recommended in hint the first. 

Twelfth.— The best months of the j'car for visiting Switzerland 
are July, August, and September. 

EMBARKING FOR THE CONTINENT. 

Travellers leaving England for France are not required, as for- 
merly, to send either their carriages or luggage to the Custom-house 
for examination, but may send them at once to the packet ; but 
there is a duty of ten shillings for every £100 value on horses, mu- 
sical instruments, household furniture, and every article taken out 
of the country for sale ; which must be entered at the Custom- 
house, and the duties paid previous to embarkation. As travellers 



XXX INTRODUCTION. — DUTIES IN FRANCE. 

are not supposed to be sufficiently acquainted with the Custom- 
house forms, strangers will find it most convenient to employ the 
commissioner of the hotel, who, from constant practice, is well 
acquainted with the regulations and formalities of custom-house 
business. 

There are also trifling harbour or pier dues, payable at all the sea- 
ports, on carriages and horses. 

ARRIVING FROM ENGLAND. 

On landing in France, travellers are required to deliver their pass- 
ports and undergo the ceremony of searching ; passengers are not 
allowed to take any parcels or luggage on shore with them, cloaks, 
great coats, or umbrellas excepted ; in the meantime the luggage is 
disembarked, and conveyed to the Custom-house, for the purpose of 
examination, where it will be necessary to attend to point out to the 
commissionaire of your hotel whatever luggage may belong to you ; 
after inspection, the luggage is immediately forwarded to the re- 
spective hotels, for the porterage of which from the vessel to the 
Custom-house to the hotel a fixed price is charged. In France, por- 
terage is by the piece and not by the weight. 

Wearing apparel and personal effects in use are always passed 
without payment of any duty ; but new cotton or woollen goods are 
strictly prohibited in France, and seized ; but, if declared previous 
to examination, they will be detained at the Custom-house for re- 
exportation. New books pay a duty of eleven francs the hundred 
kilogrammes.* Old books are admitted duty free. 

Musical instruments, such as flutes and violins, belonging to tra- 
vellers, are not subject to duty ; but new harps are liable to a duty, 
and new piano-fortes about 850 francs. If old, they are subject to 
a duty of fifteen francs upon every 100 francs of their value ; but 
in such cases they must not be entered at a less value than 600 
francs. 

Plate is subject to a duty of forty-four francs the kilogramme, and 
if taken out of France within six years, the duty will be returned ; 
but at the expiration of the three first years, application must be 
made to the Director-general of the Douane, at Paris, to obtain per- 
mission for the remaining three years. — A few spoons and forks are 
usually admitted duty free. 

Table and bed-linen, furniture, &c., in use, are charged with a 
duty of fifteen per cent. 

Carpets wholly made of wool are prohibited ; but when they are 
composed of wool and thread, they are admitted on the payment of 
300 francs for every 100 kilogrammes. 

DUTY ON CARRIAGES, HORSES, ETC., IN FRANCE. 

When a carriage is landed in France, the owner pays one-third of 

* One hundred kilogrammes are equal to about 200 lb. English weight. 



INTRODUCTION. DUTIES IN ENGLAND. XXXI 

whatever value he may put on it, but care must be taken not to be 
too much under the real value, for in that case it would be seized ; 
they are generally entered at from iCoO to £150 ; on paying the de- 
posit, a certificate will be given to the owner, by which means two- 
thirds of the money may be recovered if the carriage leaves France 
within three years. 

The same regulations are applicable to gigs or other two-wheel 
carriages. 

The duty on horses is about fifty francs. Ponies, fifteen francs. 

New harness is prohibited in France. 

LANDING IN BELGIUM AND HOLLAND. 

Antwerp. — On arrival alongside the quay at Antwerp, the officers 
step on board and immediately commence examining the luggage of 
passengers ; it is a very expeditious and convenient plan, but 
would be better if more officers were to perform the duty. 

Ostend. — The luggage is sent to the Custom-house in charge of 
the officers, where it is examined both here as well as at Antwerp 
without any vexatious annoyance. On the inland frontiers, they are 
much more strict. 

DUTIES TO BE PAID ON LANDING IN BELGIUM. 

Fr. c. 

Books in sheets, per 100 kilogrammes, 220 lbs. . 31 80 

Ditto bound ditto, ditto . . 42 40 

Carriages. — For every 100/. value, six per cent . 150 00 

N. B. The carriages and horses of travellers are exempt 
from duty on proof that they belong to themselves, 
and are for their own private use. 
Horses.— Fidich. . . . , . 15 00 

Lace. — For every 100/. value, 10/. per cent. . . 250 00 

Leather. — Harness, books, shoes, &c., per every 100/. va- 
lue, 6/. per cent. .... 150 00 
Paper. — For every 100/. value, 1 5/. per cent. . . 375 00 
Tobacco and Cigars. — Per lb., 5d. or . . 00 50 
Wearing Apparel. — In British gauze, muslin, &c., in de- 
tailed pieces, or cut out and not made up, for every 
100/. value, 10/. per cent. . . . . 250 00 
Ditto, all new wearing apparel, either for men or women, the same 

duty. 
N. B. The baggage of travellers containg wearing apparel bona fide 
for their own use, is exempt from duty, unless new. 
Rotterdam. — At this port little or no examination takes place; — 
at Hamburgh^ all luggage belonging to travellers is allowed to pass 
without examination. 

ARRIVING IN ENGLAND. 

Passengers, when leaving France for England, are recommended 
to separate from their wearing apparel articles which they consider 



XXXII INTRODUCTION. — DrXIES IN ENGLAND. 

liable to duties, according to the adjoining tables, and place thern 
in distinct packages ; which will prevent much inconvenience and 
delay, as the officers are obliged to ascertain the value, weight, &c., 
and other particulars of all articles found liable to be taxed. 

Travellers are also particularly cautioned against bringing any 
goods either about their person or in their pockets, as Custom- 
house officers board the packets as soon as they enter the harbour 
at Dover and at Gravesend coming up. Articles found concealed 
in trunks, boxes, or other packages, are liable to seizure ; together 
with all goods, although not concealed, with which they are packed. 

Foreign articles are subject to duty, although they may have been 
brought into England before. 

In London, the hours appointed for attendance at the respective 
custom-houses have been arranged to suit the convenience of travel- 
lers ; on the coast they are open from eight in the morning. 

Travellers having goods with them on their arrival in England 
liable to duties, are permitted to leave them at the Custom-house 
at twopence per week warehouse-rent each parcel or package, for 
a period not exceeding six months, to give an opportunity of taking 
them back to the continent without payment of the duties ; if they 
are not re-embarked within that time, or the duties paid, they are 
sold by public auction. 

Spirits, remains of passengers' stores, unexpended on the voyage, 
may be admitted to entry ; provided the same be brought openly^ and 
produced to the examining officers on board. 



CUSTOM HOUSE AGENCY. 

The undermentioned persons are liighly respectable, and 
families going abroad having more luggage than they can con- 
veniently take with them, or when abroad often desire to forward 
part of their baggage, or any purchases which they make, to 
England, in every case packages sent to England should be 
so consigned, in order that they may be passed through the 
custom-house and forwarded to their destination : thus all 
anxiety as to their falling into improper hands is avoided. 

Mr J. F. Chinnery, Custom-house, London, or 67^ Lower 
Thames street. 

Messrs J. and R. Mc Cracken's address is 8 Old Jewry, 
London. 

The bills of lading of all goods consigned should be for- 
warded by post. When luggage is sent, the keys of the pack- 
ages must be attached to them ; as all goods must be (accord- 
in^r to the rules of the Custom-house) examined immediately 
on arrival. For list of correspondents, see advertisements at 
the end. 



XXSUl 



ITALY. 

SITUATION, EXTENT, CLIMATE, SOIL, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 



SITUATION. 

ITALY is a country of Europe, which the Roman empire has 
rendered more famous, than any other part of the world. Ancient 
authors are not agreed concerning the derivation of this name. 
Some there are who derive it from 'IraXo/, which in the old Greek 
tongue signifies oxen, for plenty of which this country was famous ; 
others think that this name was given it by Italus, king of the 
Arcadians. The Greeks named it likewise Hesperia, either because 
of the evening star, which they call 'Eo-Trs^oy, and the Latins 
Vesper, Italy being situated west of Greece, or because of Hesperus, 
who took shelter here when he was driven from Africa by his 
brother Atlas. It had likewise the denomination of Saturnia, from 
Saturn, who reigned in this country ; of Ausonia, from Auson, son 
of Ulysses and Calypso, who peopled some parts of it ; and some 
others as taken either from its different princes, or from the people 
who at different times prevailed over the rest. Its situation is 
most advantageous in the middle of the temperate zone, between 
seven and nineteen degrees of east longitude, and between thirty- 
eight and forty-seven of north latitude. 

EXTENT. 

In figure it resembles a boot, and extends in length from Susa, a 
city of Piedmonte, to the promontory of Hercules, vulgarly called 
Cai>e Spartivento, the uttermost verge of Calabria, 720 miles. Its 
breadth is very unequal, but taking it from Porto Baratto, in the 
territory of Sienna, to Pontasella, a village in Upper Carinthia, it 
may be about two hundred and eighty miles, and the whole cir- 
cumference 3,300 miles. It is bounded by the Alps, which separate 
it from Germany on the north ; by the gulf of Venice, anciently 
called Mare Superum, as also Sinus Adriaticus, on the east ; by the 
Mediterranean sea, formerly called Mare Inferum, as also Tuscum or 
Tyrrhenum, on the south ; and by the same sea and the Alps, 
which separate it from France and Savoy, on the west. 



XXXIV INTKOBUCTION. ITALY. — SOIL, LAKES. 



CLIMATE. 



The climate of Italy, except some places in the ecclesiastical 
state, is generally esteemed temperate and healthy. Upon the 
Apennine mountains, and in some of the countries under the Alps, 
the air is very cold. On the south side of the Apennines the heats 
are troublesome. The north side of the Apennine is more healthful 
and cooler than the provinces on the south, but the country in 
general is so well surrounded by the sea, and so narrow in most 
parts of it, that the constant sea breezes cool and alleviate the 
heat of the summer. 

SOIL. 

From its fertility this country has obtained the name of the 
garden of Europe. The soil is so fruitful in corn, in excel- 
lent wine, and delicious fruits, that it seems to be blessed with 
a perpetual spring. They have a great variety of wines, such as 
the wine of Gensano, Albano, and Castel Gandolfo about Rome ; 
the Greco and Lachryma Christi of Naples ; likewise the Monte- 
fiascone and Florence wines, besides some good sorts of wine near 
Verona and Genoa. Towards Parma and Piacenza they have 
excellent pastures, which enable them to make such good cheese. 
At Naples they have grapes and melons in the winter, as also in 
some other parts of Italy. There is no great plenty of game, 
of hares and partridges, but an abundance of quails, which come 
over in flocks from Africa in the spring of the year, and 
are very easily taken, being tired of their long voyage ; they are in 
the greatest plenty at Sorrento, near Naples, and on the island of 
Capri. They have abundance of trees and plants which do not 
grow in England and France, except perhaps in the southern parts 
of the latter. Such are the orange and lemon trees, the pome- 
granate, olive, myrtle, ficus-indica, caper, and many others. They 
have commonly also the plane tree, the cork, the scarlet oak, the ju- 
jube, the carob, cypress, senna, lentisk, &c. The ways are bordered 
in several parts with the white mulberry, for the nourishment of silk 
worms. 

SEAS AND LAKES. 

The seas with which Italy is bordered are the Adriatic or gulf of 
Venice, the Ionian, and the Tuscan or Mediterranean sea. 

The chief lakes are Major, Lugano, Como, Isco, and Garda, in 
Lombardy, and the lakes of Trasimene or Perugia, Bolsena, and 
Cassel Gandolfo, in the Ecclesiastic state. 

CHIEF RIVERS. 

Italy is watered by a great number of rivers, very large, many of 
them navigable, and affording great plenty and variety of fish. The 
chief of them are : — 



INTRODUCTION. ITALY. — RIVERS, MOUNTAINS. XXXV 

1. The Po, called anciently Eridanus, which rises in the Alps, 
then crossina;' Piedmont, the Montserrat, the Milanese, and the 
duchy of Mantua, and visiting in its course the cities of Turin, 
Casal, Placentia, and Cremona, enters at length the duchy of Fer- 
rara, and, receiving several smaller rivers, empties itself by several 
mouths into the Adriatic sea. These smaller rivers are the Adda, 
which runs through the lake of Como, and falls into the Po, a little 
above Cremona ; the Tessino, which flows from Mount Adula, one 
of the Alps, crosses the lake of Maggiore, passes by Pavia, and falls 
into the Po a little below that city ; the Oglio, which rises in the 
Alps, in the county of Trent, passes through the lake of Isco, and 
falls into the Po near Mantua ; the Mincio, which rises in the lake 
of Garda, runs by Mantua, round which it makes a small lake, then 
discharges itself into the Po at Borgoforte ; the Tanaro, which rises 
in the south of Piedmont, and running through that province falls 
into the Po below Valenza ; the Taro, which rises in the mountains 
on the confines of Genoa, and, running through the duchy of Parma, 
falls into the Po below Cremona; the Reno, which rises in Tuscany, 
near the town of Pistoia, enters the Bolognese, where it waters 
Bologna, and empties itself into the Po below Placentia. This river 
is famous for the defeat which the Romans, commanded by the 
Consul Sempronius, received from the Carthaginians, under the 
command of Hannibal ; the banks of it still retain the name of 
Campo Morto. 

2. The Adige, which rises in the mountains of Tyrol, runs south 
by the city of Trent, then east by Verona in the territory of Venice, 
and falls into the Ariatic gulf, north of the mouth of the Po. 

8. The Arno, which rises on the eastern confines of Tuscany, runs 
west quite across that duchy, and having passed by Florence, the 
capital city, falls into the Mediterranean below Pisa. The valley 
through which it runs is exceedingly pleasant, abounding in all 
manner of fruits. 

4. The Tiber, whose spring-head is in the Apennine mouatains, 
runs from north to south through the Pope's territories, passing by 
Perugia and Orvieto, and having visited Rome, falls into the Medi- 
terranean sea at Ostia, fifteen miles below that city. 

5. The Carigliano, which rises in the Apennine hills, and dividing 
the Terra di Lavoro from the Campania of Rome, empties itself into 
the sea near the ruins of the ancient city of Minturna. The Garig- 
liano is the Loris of the ancients. 

MOUNTAINS. 

The principal mountains of Italy are the Alps and the Apennine. 
The Alps are the highest mountains of Europe, which separate 
Italy from France and Switzerland. There were formerly but few 
l^assages through these mountains, and those of difficult access; 
which were the chief security of the King of Sardinia's Italian 
dominions against the inroads of France, but modern engineering 



XXXVi iKtRODOCTiON. ITALY. — iKHABlTANtS, MANNERS. 

has rendered them all, even in the depth of winter, easily passable* 
The Apennine is a chain of hills which cross all Italy lengthways, 
almost through the middle. They begin near Nice, where they join 
to the maritime Alps, and, running in a kind of serpentine line from 
thence to the Ecclesiastic statCj, divide themselves into two branches, 
one of which extends to the sea of Sicily, and the other to the utter- 
most coasts of the Adriatic. The mountains of Italy, but particu- 
larly the Apennine hills, are well stored with metals, mineral 
waters, crystal, alabaster, a kind of agate, and several sorts of 
marble. The white marble of Carrara is one of the finest sorts in 
Italy, _^___ 

INHABITANTS, MANNERS, CUSTOMS, TRADE, 
LANGUAGE, &c. 



INHABITANTS, 

The Italians are of a middling stature, well proportioned, 
and their features engaging. Their complexions are not the best, 
but it is a proverbial saying among the women, that if heaven has 
given them a good shape and features, they will take care to make 
themselves good complexions. 

In general they are a very ingenious people, and capable of any 
undertaking, having an art in pursuing their vanities as well as their 
virtues. They are firm in their friendships, and familiar with those 
they love, without any regard to rank or quality. They are of a 
middle temper, betwixt the starched gravity of the Spaniard and 
the levity of the French. However, their gravity is not without 
some fire, nor their sprightliness without some phlegm. They have 
strong fancies, yet solid judgments. They like to converse about 
state affairs, having in general a good notion of politics. They are 
naturally eloquent, and want neither genius, conduct, nor valour. 
For the least favours they are exceedingly grateful, affecgtionate to 
their kindred, and ambitious of honour and preferment. They 
are ready witted, and of great application, both in study and 
business. No nation is more scrupulously nice in all the punctilios 
of civility, more profuse of strained compliments and pompous 
titles, or more exact in entertaining persons according to their 
quality. Their conversation is very civil and obliging, nor does 
even the most intimate familiarity make them forget the decorum 
of a courteous carriage. They shun occasions of quarrelling, espe- 
cially with strangers, to whom they are very courteous when they 
become acquainted. If anything can provoke them, it must be 
either where honour, or the fair sex, or religion is concerned. But 
their distinguished virtue is temperance, being the soberest people 
in Europe, though they abound with plenty of the choicest wines. 

These virtues are not without a mixture of vices, which is the 
case of most nations. Their predominant passions are jealousy and 
intrigue. They are sometimes jealous without any reason, and the 



INTRODITCTION. ITALY. — CUSTOMS, TIME. XXXvU 

least suspicion throws them into a fit of anger. They are much ad- 
dicted to pleasure and gaiety, and extravagantly violent in their amours. 
They have an extraordinary contempt and aversion for foreigners, 
whom they slightingly call Oltramontani, though we must except the 
English, to whom they show much greater marks of respect than to 
other nations. Their women are handsome and witty, and some 
writers assert they are much inclined to amours. 

CUSTOMS. 

The nobility and gentry are very profuse in their buildings, fur- 
niture, and gardens, and in making collections of pictures, statues, 
hangings, and other ornaments ; they are fond also of splendid 
equipages and great trains of servants, choosing to lay out their 
money rather in this manner than on luxurious tables and strong 
liquors. And though they are so ambitious of show, yet they do 
not suffer it to interfere with the economy of their tables, but com- 
monly keep their servants at board wages. They have a vast relish 
for outward appearance, praises, pompous titles, and great names. 
Many of them aifect to retain the old Roman names, which they 
generally use in the ablative, as Camillo, Scipione, Julio, Mario, 
Pompeio, &c. Those who have not fortunes equal to their rank, 
rather than marry the heiress of a wealthy merchant or tradesman, 
choose to go into a convent. If there be two or more brothers in 
one family, the general custom is, that only the eldest marries, and 
the rest live upon purchase. Some raise themselves in the army or 
state, others in the church, and many of them shut themselves up 
in a cloister for life. The same method is observed in respect to 
their daughters, two or three of whom go into nunneries, to raise a 
large fortune for a favourite one or two who are permitted to 
marry. They generally dress rather plain than elegant, the dress 
both of men and women being a kind of medium between the stiff 
Spanish querpo, and the fantastic French garb. In several parts, 
as at VeniiB, they had sumptuary laws to prevent the luxury of 
apparel. They always send notice beforehand when they visit 
persons of quality. 

ITALIAN TIME, 

It is the custom to reckon their hours from sun-rise to sun- 
set, counting one o'clock an hour after pun-set, and so on to twenty- 
four, according to the ancient custom of the Athenians. This 
method is subject to some inconvenience, for their hours are con- 
sequently always varying, their day beginning sooner or later 
according as the sun sets. This manner of reckoning the hours is 
different from that of the ancient Romans, who had unequal hours, 
as the astronomers express it ; that is, whose natural day was of 
twelve hours in summer as well as in winter. They commonly 
sleep, especially in summer time, after dinner, and make their 
children, when young, go bare-headed, to prevent their being 
troubled with defluxions when old. When they call one at a dis- 



XXXVlll INTRODUCTION. ITALY. — LANGUAGE. 

tance, they do it by pointing with the finger downward. They 
use but few words, and express their thoughts very often by signs 
and gesticulations. The negative is generally expressed by the 
fore-finger of the right hand being moved rapidly from right to left, 
and vice versa. 

The Italians are extremely temperate, which is to be understood 
with regard as well to eating as drinking. The first course, which 
they call the antipasto, is a dish of giblets boiled with salt and 
pepper, and mixed with whites of eggs. After which come two or 
three small dishes, one after another, of different ragouts. Their 
roast meat generally comes first, which they roast very dry, and they 
end with a land of pottage, called minestra. Boiled snails, served 
up with oil and pepper, or fried in oil, and the hinder parts of frogs, 
are reckoned dainty dishes. They frequently eat kites, hawks, 
magpies, jackdaws, and other lesser birds. The use of umbrellas is 
common everywhere, and it is customary even for men to wear fans in 
summer, in order to cool themselves during the scorching heats. 
There is hardly any such thing to be seen in Italy as a windmill, 
and they use no tin vessels, very probably because of the scarcity 
of that metal. Their vessels are all made of earth, leaded, or of 
earthenware, but they have none that resemble china so exactly as 
that of Delft. 

The streets in the large towns and cities are regular and neat, 
the buildings strong and magnificent. Most of the considerable 
cities have peculiar epithets given to them upon some particular 
account, as Rome, the holy, because it is the papal see ; Naples, 
the noble, because of the great number of nobility and gentry that 
live in it ; Florence, the fair, because of the stateliness of the 
houses, broadness and cleanliness of its streets ; Venice, the rich, by 
reason of its former opulence and power ; Genoa, the stately, for its 
magnificent buildings ; Milan, the great, by reason of its largeness 
and number of inhabitants ; Ravenna, the ancient, for its great 
antiquity ; Padua, the learned, because learning once flourished 
most in it ; Bologna, the fat, by reason of the richness of the soil 
about it ; Verona, the charming, on account of its situation and 
beauty ; Leghorn, the mercantile, for its vast trade, &c. 

LANGUAGE. 

The Italian language is the old Latin, mixed with that of the 
Goths, Vandals, and other nations, the standard of which has been 
ascertained upwards of six hundred years. It is soft, harmonious, 
and pleasant, and therefore reckoned to be fitter for women than 
men, and to be particularly adapted for courtship. This language 
is branched out into a vast number of dialects, more than ever there 
was among the Greeks, though their country was indented and cut 
out into so many islands, which, as they differed in position of 
place, so there was some reason they should differ in propriety of 
speech. Almost every province has a particular dialect, such as 



INTRODUCTION. ITALY RELIGION, TRADE. XXXIX 

the Tuscan, the Roman, the Venetian, the Neapolitan, the Cala- 
brese, the Genoese, the Milanese, the Parmesan, the Piedmontese, 
the Bergamasco, with several others. The reason of this is, as I 
apprehend, the multiplicity of states and governments in that 
country, whose law being different, a diversity also arises in their 
language. But the principal Italian dialect is the Tuscan for 
elegance and purity, and the Roman for accent and pronuncia- 
tion, pursuant to the old Italian proverb. Lingua Toscana in bocca 
Romana : — The Tuscan language in a Roman mouth. Those who 
design to make some stay in Italy, in order to learn the language, 
should choose Sienna for their place of residence, because the 
Florentine pronunciation is accompanied with a harshness that 
offends the ear, and is troublesome to the throat ; and at Rome 
they are confounded by the multitude of strangers, with whom they 
are daily obliged to converse. But at Sienna one may find retire- 
ment, together with the Tuscan language and Roman mouth. 

RELIGION. 

Regarding religion in Italy, everybody knows that Rome is the 
centre of the Roman Catholic worship. Foreigners in general are 
under no great restraint in point of religion, but are allowed a good 
deal of freedom, and nowhere more than at Rome. 

TRADE. 

Italy was about four or five centuries ago the most flourishing 
country in the world in respect to commerce. The cities of Genoa 
and Venice, but especially the latter, had engrossed all the rich 
trade of the East Indies, with which there was no other communi- 
cation at that, time but by Egypt and the Red Sea. The discovery 
of a passage to the East Indies by the Cape of Good Hope, towards 
the close of the fifteenth century, gave a fatal stroke to the Italian 
commerce, by opening a direct communication between the eastern 
parts of Asia, and the other provinces of Europe. From that period 
the trade of Italy began to decline, and the frequent wars with which 
that country was infested in the two last centuries contributed not 
a little to increase this declension. Another cause of the decay of 
commerce was the contempt which the nobility in most provinces 
showed for the trading part of the commonwealth, by excluding 
them from public honours, and reckoning it ignominious to trade 
themselves, or even to marry a merchant's daughter. 'Tis true 
this prejudice began to be removed first in the duchy of Tuscany, 
where the princes of the house of Medicis gave the greatest encou- 
ragement imaginable to trade, from a conviction of its being the 
surest way to increase their power and revenue by augmenting the 
property of the subject. This is what induced them to make Leg- 
horn a free port, and to set an example of trade to their subjects of 
all degrees, by engaging as principals themselves in several lucra- 



Xl INTRODUCTION. ITALY. — NICK-NACKS. 

tive branches of commerce. The same example has been followed 
lately by some other states and princes, as the King of Naples, the 
King of Sardinia, nay, even the Pope, who has made a free port of 
Civita Vecchia; but the frequent wars in Italy have hitherto pre- 
vented their endeavours from being so successful as they desired. 
At present their foreign trade is carried on chiefly in foreign bot- 
toms, by which they export their own manufactures, and import 
the commodities sent them by other nations. The chief commodities 
of Italy are sarsenets, velvets, taffetas, cloths of gold and silver, wine, 
currants, rice, raw silk, alum, vitriol, fine glass, grograms, thrown 
silks, satin, corn, oil, &c. 

NICK-NACKS PECULIAR TO ITALY. 

Rome is celebrated for all sorts of engravings and prints, 
antiques, cameos, pearls, bas-reliefs, ornaments of architecture, 
pictures of popes, cardinals, illustrious men, works of the most 
celebrated painters, perfumes, admirable bergamot, limetta, impe- 
rial oil and of Millefiori, and all sorts of quintessences, balsams, po- 
matums, &c. The Roman perfumers have a particular way or secret 
to perfume skins, of which they make gloves, purses, fans, &c. 

At Naples they are famous for stockings, gloves, waistcoats, caps, 
and other works of silk, perfumed shaving soap, snuff-boxes of shell 
inlaid with silver, bracelets and armlets of lava, and drawings in 
water-colours. 

At Venice, for points ; all sorts of works of glass and crystal ; 
snuff-boxes ; silk stuffs ; fine gold chains, head parasols. 

At Florence, for essences, balsams, pomatums, and other perfumes, 
at the monastery of St Mark, and of St Mary Novella. The Cedrato, 
the Mella Rosa, the Scorza di Limoni, and the Vette di Cedro, are 
very fiuf scents. Ambra, Muschio, Arance, Myrrho, Fior di spigo, 
are much commended, though not quite so pleasant as the preceding. 
The rose is good in its kind, and pleases the nose at first, but it 
disturbs the head, and the frequent use of it is dangerous. Stones 
called Dendrites, and others called Ruins of Florence, which come 
from Monte Limagio ; as also inlaid works with these stones, figures 
and vases of alabaster. 

At Genoa, for points, velvets, and other silk stuffs ; dry sweet- 
meats, and straw hats. 

At Bologna, for several sorts of snuff, washballs, stones, or phos- 
phoruses, and sausages. 

At Tortona they make and sell very curious works of straw; 
such as boxes, flowers, birds, small caskets for toilets, &c. 

At Turin, for milled gloves, Rosa solis, and the sweet snuff of 
Millefiori. 

At Leghorn also for straw hats, cashmeres, &c. 

At Modena, for masks, and at Reggio for its spurs and fine toys. 



xli 



TRAVELLING IN ITALY. 

There is no country in Europe where travelling is attended with 
so much pleasure and improvement as Italy. We need not here 
enlarge on the fruitfulness and various productions of this happy 
region, it being well known, as a modern writer* elegantly expresses 
himself, that whatever desirable things nature has dropt frugally 
here and there in other countries, are found in Italy as in their ori- 
ginal seminary : whence some call it the parent of plenty ; others, 
the fountain of earthly bliss, the incomparable region of this globe, 
the garden of Europe, the epitome of the world, or rather a little 
world itself. The inhabitants of this country were once the trium- 
phant lords and conquerors of the world ; but at present the softer 
arts prevail ; and in these they are generally thought to be as much 
superior to the modern as their ancestors were to the ancient 
nations in war and military exploits. 

As for the route to be taken by those who intend to visit that 
country, 'tis impossible to fix it, since the choice depends on the 
place where they intend to enter, and the time they have to 
spend in it ; one should see the last days of the carnival at Venice, the 
holy week at Rome, and the octave of the sacrament at Bologna ; 
to avoid being at Rome, or the adjacent country, during the great 
heats ; to traverse the country, so as to see as much of it as they 
can, and to endeavour not to pass twice the same way. If you can- 
not be at Venice during the carnival, you ought at least to be there 
on Ascension-day. Company is generally agreeable in travelling, 
for fellowship makes people pass their hours more cheerfully. Ex- 
cept in large towns or cities the inns in general are very miserable, 
bad beds, scarcity, and bad provisions. To prevent, therefore, the 
inconveniences of a bad lodging, those that do not carry a complete 
bed with them, ought at least to make a provision of a light quilt, a 
pillow, and a pair of fine sheets, they will make but a small bundle. 
However, if this should appear troublesome, 'tis advisable at least 
to travel with sheets, and upon coming to an indifferent inn, where 
the bed may happen to look suspicious, you may at least lie between 
clean sheets. 

A traveller should always be furnished with an iron wedge to 
fasten his door on the inside, for it frequently happens that the 
doors of the lodging-rooms have neither locks nor bolts, and oppor- 
tunity, according to the old proverb, makes the thief ; and a lucifer- 
box, in order to strike a light in case of any accident in the night. 

* Not my friend Murray. 



Xlii INTRODUCTION. ITALY. — MODES OF TRAVELLING. 

SEASON FOR TRAVELLING. 

People are apt to imagine there is little winter in Italy ; but 
they are much mistaken, for the cold is as severe there in that sea- 
son as in many places on this side of the Alps. Gentlemen, there- 
fore, that are excursionists should never travel in winter, the roads are 
bad and dangerous, especially in the mountains, because of the 
snow and ice : the days are short, which renders it necessary to rise 
before day. Besides, the country looks dismal, nature is in a man- 
ner half dead, and there are neither fruits nor flowers to be seen. 
On the contrary, in summer a traveller meets with none of those 
inconveniences, and though the weather is sometimes hot, he has 
only to repose himself during the heat of the day. 

CONVEYANCES. 

In the Italian states there are three modes of conveyance : post- 
ing, by diligence, and by vetturini; travellers by the first mode 
should always provide a bolletone at the police-office, without which 
no post-horses can be obtained. 

In Italy, as in France, the number of horses put to a carriage is 
regulated by the number of persons; thus, a post-chaise with two 
persons requires two horses, three persons three horses, and four 
persons four horses; but in those parts of Northern Italy where the 
roads are level, a calash, or open carriage, with three persons and 
one trunk, is allowed to travel with two horses. 

In Tuscany, an English post-chaise with a pole, conveying three 
persons, and without an imperial, if the road is not mountainous, is 
allowed to travel with two horses, but if there is an imperial it must 
have three horses ; and English carriages, with four persons, impe- 
rial, and trunks, must have four horses. 

In the papal dominions a two-wheeled carriage, with three per- 
sons and one trunk, is allowed to travel with two horses, but with 
more than one trunk three horses are indispensable ; a four-wheeled 
carriage, with six persons and one trunk, is allowed to travel with 
four horses, but with six persons and two large trunks, or with 
seven persons, it must have six horses: a four-wheeled half-open 
carriage, much in use all over Italy, with two persons and one 
trunk, is allowed to travel with two horses. 

In the Neapolitan territories, a two-wheeled carriage, with two 
persons and one large trunk, is allowed to travel with two horses, 
with three persons and a large trunk, three horses ; a four-wheeled 
carriage with three persons and two large trunks, three horses; with 
four persons and two large trunks, four horses ; bat with six persons 
and two large trunks, six horses are indispensable. 

The above post regulations do not at all interfere with parties mak- 
ing arrangements to have their carriages horsed with vetturini 
horses, whatever the number of their family or the quantity of their 
luggage may be. 

To tiie driver of every extra draught horse it is usual to give two 



INTKODUCTION. ITALY POSTING. 



xliv 



pauls, although he cannot demand any remuneration : it is the best 
plan to pay the post-master for his horses before they set out. 

Shafts are not used, either in the Tuscan, Roman, or Neapolitan 
territories, poles being used the same as in England. 



PRICE OF POST HORSES 

IN LOMBARD Y, PARMA, AND MODENA. 





a. 


1. 


frs. c. 


For two horses per post 


6 


32 


5 50 


Postilions - - - - 


1 





87 


Stable boy - - - 





15 


12 


It is usual to pay the former 


3 


50 


3 


The latter . . - 





60 


50 


PIEDMONT. 






frs. c. 


For two horses, per post 




> 


3 


Postilions 


- 


- 


75 


They, however, usually receive 




- 


2 


TUSCANY AND LUCCA. 












pauls. 


frs. c. 


For two horses, per post 


- 


10 


5 55 


Postilions _ - _ 


- 


3 


1 65 


Stable boy - 


- 


04 


30 


It is usual to give the former 


- 


5 


2 75 


The latter 


- 


1 


55 


ROMAN STATES. 












baj. 


frs. c. 


For two horses, per post 


. ' 


100 


5 40 


Postilions 


- 


35 


1 90 


Stable boy - - - 


- 


5 


27 


It is usual to give the former 


. 


50 


2 70 


The latter 


- 


10 


55 


KINGDOM OF NAPLES. 






gra. 


Each horse, per post 


. 




- 65 


Postilions - - - 




. 


- 15 


Stable boy 


- 




- 5 


LENGTH OF ITALIAN POSTES. 









The usual length of a poste in every part of Italy, except the 
Sardinian territories, is between six and eight miles, but the mile 
of Italy differs in extent ; that of Piedmont and Genoa being con- 



Xliiii INTRODUCTION. ITALY. — VETTDRINT. 

siderably more than one English mile ; of Lombardy about sixty 
yards less ; that of Tuscany a thousand geometrical paces ; that of 
the Ecclesiastical state the same length (which is about one 
hundred and fifty yards short of an English mile) ; and the mile in 
the kingdom of JNaples is longer than the English mile. The postes 
of the Sardinian territories are usually of the same length with 
those of France, though somewhat shorter in the Alps. 

THE TETTURINI 

Is more economical than posting, although of course much slower, 
as the vetturini only goes at the rate of from forty to forty-five 
English miles per day, even with good horses. A vetturini gene- 
rally expects for conveying travellers in their own carriage in Italy 
12 francs a day per horse, 6 francs a day each passenger, 

5 francs a day each child, and 4 francs a day each servant, 
for which he furnishes, besides the horses, two meals a day and 
beds, either breakfast and supper or dinner and supper. If travel- 
lers, to suit their pleasure or convenience, require the vetturini to 
stop one or more days on the road, or at any town, he expects 

6 francs a night for each of his horses ; but if he conveys passen- 
gers in his own carriage the expense is from 10 to 12 francs a day 
each person, everything included, as he then counts upon 
making a considerable profit by passengers returning. The buona- 
mano generally given to the driver is about two shillings English 
a day for four travellers. 

Travellers finding themselves on the road should agree with the 
landlord for what they have, in order to avoid disputes. The 
general custom among the Italians used to be 4 pauls a head at 
night, including the bed ; and 3 pauls in the morning. For 
servants, 2 in the morning and 3 in the evening. 

The luggage should be fastened to the carriage with an iron 
chain and a padlock, as is frequently done in Germany. 

The great expense of posting, and the inconvenient and lumbering 
public conveyances which travel on the great roads through Italy, 
has rendered the vetturini a very popular mode of land travelling, 
and, generally speaking, from what I have seen of them, they are a 
trustworthy, civil, and intelligfent class ; but they, as well as many 
other descriptions of persons, will take an innocent advantage of the 
green and inexperienced whenever they get a chance ; but, to prevent 
as far as in them lies, the police authorities throughout Italy have 
sanctioned, and fixed unalterably, a certain number of printed 
clauses, which are furnished by the vetturini when about to engage 
for a journey. 

It is not, however, generally known, that in all the large towns 
throughout Italy the vetturini have a duly acknowledged agent or 
broker, generally a respectable-looking, intelligent, oily, smooth- 
tongued, lying humbug, who has more brothers and cousins than 
any one man ever had north of the Alps ; his business is to palaver 



INTRODUCTION ITALY. — VETTUEINI BROKERS. x\v 

you into an engagement (as you think) with himself ; as soon as it is 
concluded he retires with directions to bring his coach at five the next 
morning ; the young ladies clap their hands in ecstasy ; — oh, dear, 
what a very nice, well-behaved, good-looking man, how very agree- 
able to be cared for by such a thoughtful coachman, mamma declares 
it has relieved her mind from a great anxiety, as the dread of falling 
into the hands of some rough, uncouth creature of a driver quite 
disturbed her rest for the last two nights ; the sister (a widow) de- 
clares that although a shilling is an object she would rather pay 
something more to travel with such a pleasant man ! Why, Lord love 
you, at the very time the whole party are discussing the satisfaction 
they feel at being so fortunate, the gay deceiver is engaging himself 
to start at four o'clock the following morning, in quite an opposite 
direction — but this is his business, and a good one it is ; for by using his 
oil the screw works more freely, so that he gets something out of you in 
addition to his per centage. The morning arrives, a coach is at the 
door, punctual to a minute ; the decoy duck is also there, bustling, 
smiling, aiding, till all is ready ; if he should happen to have another 
lot to dispatch immediately he introduces his brother, a fat, ugly, 
ill-tempered looking fellow, the very sight of whom causes an unin- 
terrupted silence between the ladies for the first sixteen miles, when 
the cheering words " Cameriere portate subito la Colazione," induces 
the party to look at their provider, when it is at once decided that, 
although he is not quite the thing, yet they might have had worse. 
It may be needless to say that, as soon as the bargain was struck a 
letter was dispatched to Florence, Rome, Milan, or wherever the 
party may be going to, stating the day of arrival, and by the time 
the vett arrives, he is already under engagement to return, or prcr- 
ceed in another direction. 

N.B. It is important to insert in the agreement that the same 
coachman, carriage, and an equal number of horses, be continued to 
the end of the journey, and that if satisfactory reasons be given for 
changing, that one equally large and convenient should be supplied. 
Never give intimation to your present coachman where you next in- 
tend to proceed to, after his agreement expires ; if you do, intima- 
tion is given at the rendezvous, and the price that he asked to con- 
vey you there (generally higher than it ought) is kept up to in the 
market. 



Xlvi INTRODUCTION. ITALY. — VETTUEINI AGEEEMENT. 



COPY OF ORIGINAL AGREEMENT. 



4 Nbre 1844. 

Oolla presente privata Scritta stipulata in duplicato Originale da 
valere, e tenere dalle iiifrascritte parti Contraenti nel piu efficace 
modo di ragione, e stato fissato e convenuto quanto appresso. 

1. II Proprietario di Vettura domiciliato a 

in Via al N promette, e si obbliga di 

servire nel Viaggio clie vuole intraprendere da 

a con mettere a sua disposizione durante il detto 
Viaggio 

condott da buono Vetturino pel prezzo 

convenuto di 

mediante qual pagamento, che sara eseguito 

restano gli obblighi al detto proprietario di Vettura o suo 
garzon e qui appresso dichiarati. 

2. Ogni giorno, durante il detto Viaggio, dovra fornire a numero 

Padroni 



3. Tutte le spese d'ajuti nel passaggio di Fiumi, Monti, e Mon- 

tagne, come quelle di Barriere, saranno a carico del Vetturino 
Conduttore. 

4. La Buonamano a Vetturin Conduttor sara 

5. Che il prescritto Viaggio sara eseguito nel Corso di Giorni 

o siano Notti a contare dal Giorno in 

cui e stata fissata la partenza. 

6. La Partenza da e fissata per la mattina del di 

alle ore 

7. Nel caso che la partenza venisse ritardata sara pagato per 

ciaschedun giorno pel mantenimento delle Bestie. 

8. Per tutti quei giorno di piu che al predetto Signer gli piacesse 

di restar fermo in qualche Citta, o che fosse costretto per casi 
fortuiti, e restato convenuto, che 

9. Che il Vetturino Conduttore dovra andar sempre in buoni 

Alberghi partendo ogni mattina di buon ora per arrivare ogni 
giorno prima di Notte all'Albergo ove dovrassi pernottare. 

10. E per I'osservanza di cio si sono volontariamente sotoscritte 
ambo le parti, come appresso. 



INTEODUCTION. ITALY. — VETTCRINI AGEEEMENT. xlvii 



TRANSLATION. 

The parts in Italic were filled up in writing, which may be altered 
according to circumstances. 

B Florence, 4th of November^ 1844. 

y the present private writing, stipulated in double original to 
be in force, and to be kept by the undersigned parties in the most 
efficacious mode, it has been fixed as follows : — 

1. The proprietor of the coach, Giacomo Gulinelli, lives at , in 

street, at No — , promises and will bind himself to serve 

four pel' sons in the journey they are going to take from Florence 
to Padua, by putting at their disposal during said Yoja^ge four 
places in the inside of a coach, to be driven by a good vetturino 
(coachman), for the stipulated price of 2^ naps, in gold for 
each place or person, which payment is to be paid by instal- 
ments while on the way ; and the proprietor of the coach (or 
his coachman) is bound to the following — 

2. Every day, during the above-said journey, he must supply to the 

above four passengers in the morning before starting, coffee, 
milk, bread and butter ; at twelve o'clock, dejeuner h la four' 
chette ; and in the evening, dinner, consisting of four dishes ; or 
tea and one dish, according to their desire ; lights, fire, and beds. 

3. All the expenses during the journey, such as crossing of the 

rivers, mountains, hills, and toll bars, must be at the expense 
of the coachman. 

4. The buona mano (present) to the vetturino, or conductor, will be 

6 pauls for each person. 

5. The above said journey to be performed in five days, to begin 

from the morning of the starting day. 

6. The starting day from Florence is fixed on the morning of the 

bth of the present month, at 6 a.m. 

7. In case the day for starting is postponed, the passengers will 

have to pay daily, for the keeping of the horses, 5 francs for 
each horse. 

8. If the passengers wish to stay any length of time in any town 

they pass through on the journey, or, if prevented from proceed- 
ing by any other fortuitous circumstances, they will have to pay 
5 francs daily for each horse, and their own expenses of beds, 
living, Sfc. 

9. The coachman must always take the passengers to good hotels, 

starting every day early in the morning, so as to arrive at the 
resting places before dusk. 

10. For the full observance of this contract we have voluntary put 
our signatures. 

(Signed) COGHLAN, HOPKINS, JONES, & Co. 

GIACOMO GULINELLI. 



Xlviii INTRODUCTION ITALIAN BEDS, PASSPORTS. 

INNS. 

The Inns particularly recommended have been visited by myself, 
and in every case I have endeavoured to do justice to the hotel- 
keeper as well as a service to the traveller, as nothing can be so 
annoying to travellers as to find, after a long and fatiguing journey, 
themselves set down at a pot-house instead of a hotel, or to find the 
once Grande Albergo Bretagne converted into a butcher's shop. On the 
roads between Florence and Naples I have seldom mentioned the 
inns, for really they are scarcely deserving the name; besides, each 
vetturini has his own favourite house to stop at, and it is always 
better to let him go there. 

ITALIAN BEDS 

Will astonish, and no doubt please, married people who have been 
screwed up in small German and Swiss beds ; the first sample, after 
passing the Alps by the Simplon, is seen at the ancient poste, Domo 
d'Ossola; and generally throughout Italy they are large enough 
for a man and his wife and four juveniles — but, notwithstanding their 
convenient size, they are not particularly soft ; one thin mattress of 
wool is generally placed on the top of a palliase, composed of the 
dried leaves of Indian corn; a really comfortable bed should have 
two wool mattresses at least ; this, by giving a little notice to the 
chambermaid (i. e. man) will be readily effected. Madame Starke 
recommended travellers to carry their own sheets : had she also 
advised people to carry their own pillows, it would have been a wise 
suggestion ; they are even now precious hard and flat, they must 
have been bullets in her time. Iron bedsteads are now pretty gene- 
ral throughout Italy. Mosquito curtains are made of a fine muslin, 
which should be drawn tightly down; curtains with openings at the 
sides are literally of no use, the insinuating tormentors would creep 
through the eye of a needle. 

PASSPORTS IN ITALY. 

In every part of Italy, except the Austrian states, the vise to a 
traveller's passport must be paid for, varying from 1 to 12 pauls, to 
the police, then to the English consul, and lastly by the consul of the 
state you are about entering. It should, however, be always borne 
in mind that the vise of a minister, on proceeding from France, 
Germany, or Switzerland, authorizes your entering that country for 
once only, and having left it, to return, it must again receive a 
similar vise either from a minister or a consul. It is also important 
to know that the number in each family should be particularly 
specified, and whenever a separation takes place previous to em- 
barking, particular notice should be given to the police to that 
effect, as the number of persons registered as having embarked 
(copied from the passports) must be forthcoming when the vessel 
arrives ; in some cases the passengers are called one by one by 



INTRODUCTION. ITALY.— MONEY. xlvix 

name, but in all they are passed from one part of the vessel to the 
other, and counted hf the police. A traveller, who had left his wife 
in Switzerland while he made a hasty tour through Italy, whose 
name he allowed to remain on the passport, was detained some time 
at Leghorn till he satisfied the police that he had not ' done for her ;* 
but the most ample local particulars will be found under the above 
head at all large towns and cities. 

ITALIAN MONEY. 

The moneys most current in Italy, and upon which there is the 
least loss, are napoleons and Spanish dollars ; the last are current for 
94 to 10 pauls. On the whole napoleons are the best, but for families 
posting on the road Spanish dollars, or the largest silver coins of the 
country through which they hajDpen to be passing at the time, are 
most convenient. All over Italy the money is reckoned by livres 
and hundredths, or centimes, exactly corresponding to the French 
francs. The accounts are generally in pauls, particularly in the 
Papal and Tuscan states. 

PIEDMONTESE. 

The actual coinage is the same as the French. The old coins in 
circulation are the double d'or Savoyard, worth 28 frs. 45 c. ; the 
demi-double, 14 frs. 22 c. ; and the quadruple of Genoa, 79 fr. 



GENOA. 

The doppia of gold is worth - - 79 frs. 

The ruspone of gold - - _ 60 pauls. 

The sequin of Florence - - 20 ditto. 

The sequin of Rome - - - 19^ ditto. 

The francescone - - - 10 ditto. 

The crown of St John the Baptist - - 5 livres. 



THE KINGDOM OF LOMBARDO-VENETO. 

French money is current. 

The Italian lira is the same as the franc. 

The Austrian zwanziger is worth 87 cents. 

The lira Milanese, 76 cents. 

The tallero, 5 frs. 22 cents. 

The fiorino or mezzo tallero, 2 frs. 61 cents. 

There being three currencies, the lira Italiana, the lira Mila- 
nese, and the lira Austriaca, or zwanziger, it causes considerable 
confusion to strangers. In shopping always inquire which is 
meant. 



INTRODUCTION. ITALY. — MONET, 



TUSCANY. 



&. s. 


d. 





5 English 





9 „ 


2 


3 „ 


4 


6 „ 


10 


„ 


1 10 


6 „ 



8 crazie 1 paul or paola 

1 lira - - - 

5 pauls, 1 mezzo scudo 
10 pauls, 1 Francescone or scudi 
Sequin, or zecchino (gold) 
Ruspone (gold) _ . - 

The smaller coins are the half paul, pieces of 2 crazie, 1 crazia, 
quattrini, 5 of which make 1 crazia, soldo, 1 of which makes 3 
quattrini. 

The exchange being usually iu favour of England, a paul costs 
5d., and owing to the agio on gold 21 pauls are given for a sequin, 
the actual value being 20 pauls, and 63 instead of 60 are given for a 
ruspone ; on this account many travellers prefer receiving their 
money in scudi, or Spanish dollars, which on a large sum makes a 
considerable difference. 

ROME. 

10 bajocchi 1 paul - 

5 pauls 1 mezzo scudo 
10 pauls 1 scudo 
20 pauls 1 sequin (gold) 
New piece of 1\ scudi (gold) 
82 pauls 1 doppia (gold) 
50 pauls I new piece of 5 scudi (gold) 

Other coins are the 3 and 2 paul pieces, the half-paul, and the 
bajocchi. The Spanish dollar passes here for 10 pauls. Accounts 
are kept in pauls and bajocchi. 



NAPLES. 

s- d. 

10 grains 1 carlin - - - 4 English. 

12 carlins 1 piastre - - - 4 4 „ 

80 carlins 1 onza - - - 10 6 „ 

In addition it may be useful to know that the English sovereign 
is worth between 46 and 47 pauls ; a Napoleon about 37 pauls, or 
3 piasters 10 carlini 5 grana ; a Spanish dollar 10 pauls. 



s. 


d. 


- 


o 


- 2 


14 


- 4 


3 


- 8 


6 


- 10 


8 


- 13 


8i 


- 21 


4 



H 



ENGLISH MONEY EEDUCED TO THE VALUE OE THE 
MONEY IN THE ITALIAN STATES. 



English 
Money. 


Milan 
Lira Nova 
or Franc. 


Austrian 
Lira 

and cents. 


Tuscan 

Scudi, 

Pauls, and 

Grazie . 


Naples 

Ducates, 

Carlins, 

Gran. 


E ome 

Francesconi, 

Pauls, 

Bajocchi. 


£. 


s. 


d. 


Lira. 


cent. 


Lira. 


cent. 


Sc. 


PI. 


Gr. 


D. C. 


G. 


F. P. B. 








1 





lOi 





12 








H 





H 


2 








2 





21 





24 








3 





5 


4 








4 





42 





48 








6 





10 


8 








6 





63 





72 





1 


1 


1 


5 


12 





1 





1 


26 


1 


44 





2 


2 


3 





2 4 





2 





2 


52 


2 


89 





4 


4 


6 





4 8 





3 





3 


78 


4 


33 





6 


6 


9 





7 2 





4 





5 


04 


5 


80 





9 





12 





9 6 





5 





6 


30 


8 


25 


1 


1 


2 


15 





1 1 8 





10 





12 


60 


14 


50 


2 


2 


4 


30 





2 3 6 





15 





18 


90 


21 


75 


3 


3 


6 


45 





3 5 4 


1 








25 


21 


29 


00 


4 


5 





60 





4 7 2 


2 








50 


42 


58 


00 


9 








120 





9 4 4 


3 








75 


63 


87 


00 


13 


5 





180 





14 1 6 


4 








100 


84 


116 


00 


18 








240 





18 8 8 


5 








126 


05 


145 


00 


22 


5 





300 





23 6 2 


6 








151 


26 


174 


00 


27 








360 





28 3 4 


7 








176 


47 


203 


00 


31 


5 





420 





33 6 


8 








201 


68 


232 


00 


36 








480 





37 7 8 


9 








226 


89 


261 


00 


40 


5 





540 





42 


10 








252 


10 


290 


00 


45 








60 





45 5 


20 








504 


20 


580 


00 


90 








120 





85 


30 








756 


30 


870 


00 


135 








180 





127 5 


40 








1008 


40 


1160 


00 


180 








240 





170 


50 








1260 


50 


1455 


00 


225 








300 





212 5 


60 








1512 


60 


1740 


00 


270 








360 





255 


70 








1764 


70 


2030 


00 


315 








420 





297 5 


80 








2016 


80 


2320 


00 


360 








480 





340 


90 








2268 


90 


2610 


00 


405 








540 





382 5 


100 








2521 


00 


2900 


00 


450 








600 





435 



The above table is given, not as the accurate exchange at par, 
but merely to sho w the amount in English money of any expenses 
incurred in Italy ; but except in shops, and when taking excur- 
sions among the natives, there is little difficulty in the money. 
All through Sardinia, and at Milan and Venice, the hotel bills 
are made out in French francs ; at Florence, Rome, Leghorn, in 
pauls ; at Naples, in carlins. There is, however, some slight dif- 
ference between the Tuscan and Roman pauls, the latter being 
worth 7| grazie, and the former 8 grazie. 



lii INTRODUCTION. ITALY — WAITERS, ETC. 



CAMERIERE — FACCHINO POSTILIONS. 

The waiters throughout Italy are called by the first name, and 
are in general civil and attentive ; the porters by the second, who 
appear to enjoy, in Tuscany and the Papal States, a government 
privilege to annoy and perplex the wearied traveller. There is, 
however, a distinction in favour of those travelling post in their own 
carriages ; but the vetturini, on entering a town, are surrounded and 
followed to the inn by several of these gentry, who unload the car- 
riage and carry the luggage up to the apartments, the porters 
of the hotel standing by, while the exorbitant charges for doing 
that which in other countries is readily done by the servants of the 
house causes a continued squabbling respecting these charges, which 
can only be terminated by at once yielding, with the best possible 
grace, to their demands, as the innkeepers, if they would, evidently 
clare not interfere. 

The postilion (postiglione) is another source of annoyance ; and 
when travelling post are never satisfied ; travelling too in the public 
conveyances, as having no right whatever, on the termination of 
each stage, going regularly round to the travellers and begging from 
all ; but the begging system in Italy appears to be studied as a pro- 
fession ; the lower classes are beggars from the cradle — old men beg, 
old women beg, little boys beg, and young children beg ; in short, 
if the true begging system ever existed to perfection in any coun- 
try, that country is Italy, where all travellers, but English travellers 
in particular, are considered legitimate game for the lame and the 
lazy. 

The buona-mano to the cameriere is also a source of constant trouble 
and anxiety to English travellers. About a zwanziger per diem in 
Lombardy and Venice, a paul in Tuscany and the Papal States, one 
and a half to two carlins in Naples, for the heads of the party, 
excluding children and servants, given to the cameriere for the inn- 
door servants will be sufficient if staying some time. It is also 
usual to give a trifle to the gate porter when leaving. 



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Iv 



TIME AND EXPENCES REQUIRED FOR A TOUR 

From London through Belgium up the Rhine through Switzerland, back by 
France and Paris; in francs and sous. 



£ s. d. 
Chief cabin fare to Ostend - - 1 10 
On board Steam-Packet : — Break- 
fast, 2s.; dinner, 3s. - - 5 
Tea or supper - - 1 6 

Steward - - - 2 

fr. s. 
At Ostend: — Porterage of Luggage - 10 
Dinner at table d'hote - - 3 

Tea or supper - - - 1 10 

Servants and Porterage to Railwaj- 2 
Railway to Cologne - - 27 

First day. 
Breakfast, 1 fr. 10 s.; dinner, 3 fr. 4 10 
Cologne :— Supper, 2 fr.; bed, 2 fr. - 4 
Servants - - - - 10 

Cologne to Mannheim - - 22 

Second day. 
On the Rhine:— Breakfast, 1 fr.; 

dinner, 2 fr. - - 3 

Third day. 
On the Rhine : — Breakfast - 1 

Dinner at table d'hote - - 2 10 

Cobientz : — Tea or supper, 2 fr.; 

bed, 2 fr. - - 4 

Servants & Porterage from packet 1 10 
Fourth day. 
On the Rhine : — Breakfast, 1 fr. ; din- 
ner, 3 frs. ' - - 4 
Mannheim: — Tea or supper - - 1 10 
Bed - - - - 2 
Fare to Baden by Railway - - 10 

Fifth day. 
Breakfast, 1 fr. 10 s.; dinner, 3 fr. 4 10 
Baden: — Tea or supper - - 1 10 

Bed - - - - 2 

Sixth day. 
Baden: — Breakfast, 1 fr. 10s.; din- 
ner, 3fr. - - - 4 10 
Tea or supper - - - 1 10 
Bed - - - - 2 

Seventh day. 
Breakfast - - - - 1 10 

Dinner and bed - - 5 

Eighth day. 
Railroad from Baden to OfFenburg - 4 
OfFenburg : — dinner - - - 3 

Dingingen: — Tea and bed -30 

Ninth day. 
Breakfast - - - 1 10 

Friburg :— Dinner, 3 fr. bed, 2 fr. - 5 
Tenth day. 
Breakfast - --20 

One-fourth of the hire of a carriage 
to Schaffhausen, one day and 
a half - - - 15 

Expenses on the road - - 3 10 

The expenses by Strasbourg would be 
out the same. 

Eleventh day. 
Camera Obscura, boatage, and 

viewing the Falls of the Rhine 3 
Shaffehausen; — Dinner, bed -50 



Twelfth day. fr.s. 

Breakfast - - - 2 

One-third hire of a return to Con- 
stance - - - 3 
Constance :— Dinner, bed - - 5 
Thirteenth day. 
Breakfast and dinner, one o'clock 5 
Steam- packet to Rorschach 3 
Rorschach: — Supper and bed - 4 10 

Fourteenth day. 
St Gall:— Breakfast - - - 2 10 

Weisbad : — Dinner - - 2 

Farm house: Coffee, brandy for 

feet, bed, and breakfast - - 2 10 
Fifteenth day. 
Half the expense of a guide to cross 

the Kamor mountain - 3 

Sennewald: — Dinner- - - 2 10 

Werdenberg: — Supper, 1 fr. 10 s,; 

and bed, 1 fr. 10 s. - - 3 

Sixteeenth day. 
Breakfast - - - 1 

Half the expenses of a car to Ra- 

gatz - - - 3 

Baths of Pfeffers :— Dinner, 2 frs.; 

guide, 10 s. - - - 2 10 

Diligence from Ragatz to Wallen- 

stadt - - - 3 

Wallenstadt : — Supper, 2 frs.; bed, 

1 fr. 10 s. - - 3 10 

Sevettteenth day. 
Breakfast - - -.10 

Boat from Wallenstadt to Wesen 2 
Wesen: — Dinner - - 2 10 

Half the expenses of a car from 

Schmerikon to Rapperschwyl 2 
Rapperschwyl : — Supper, 4 frs.; bed, 

2 frs. - --60 

Eighteenth day. 
Steam-packet to Zurich - - 3 10 
Breakfast on board - - 1 

Zurich: — Dinner, 4 frs.; tea, 

1 fr. 10 s.; and bed, 2 frs. - 7 10 
Nineteenth day. 
Breakfast, 1 fr. 10 s.; dinner, 4 frs.; 

bed, 2 frs. - - 7 10 

Twentieth day. 
Zurich: — Breakfast - - - 1 10 

Diligence to Zug - - 3 

Zug; — Dinner, bed 5 

Twenty-first day. 
Breakfast, luncheon, and brandy, 

for mounting - - - 3 10 

Mountain staff - - 1 

Goulda : — Refreshment - - 1 

Righi: — Supper and wine - - 4 

Bed - - - - 

Twenty-second day. 
Breakfast - - - 1 10 

One-third of the expense of a boat 

from Weggis to Lucerne - 2 
Lucerne : — Dinner, 4 frs. ; bed, 1 fr. 

10 s. - - - 5 10 



Ivi 



EXPENSE OF THE TOtJK. 



/r. s. 
Twenty-third day. 
Lucerne : — Breakfast, 1 fr. 10 s. ; 

dinner, 4 frs. ; bed, 1 fr. 10 s. 7 
Twenty-fourth day. 
Lucerne: — Breakfast - - I 10 

Steamer to Fleulen -• -50 

Fleulen: — Dinner and wine - - 2 10 
Tea, 1 fr. 5 s. ; bed, 1 fr. 
10 s. - - - 2 15 

Twenty-fifth day. 
Breakfast - - - 1 5 

One-fourth of a carriage to Ander- 

matt - - -50 

Turnpike - - - 1 5 

St Gothard (Lying d'Or) : — Dinner, 

3 frs. ; bed, 1 fr. 10 s. - 4 10 

Breakfast, share of cold fowl, 

salt, &c. - - - 2 10 

Horse-hire to Furca, 9 frs. ; ditto 

to Grimsel, 9 frs. - - 18 

Drink-geld - --30 

(Pig and Whistle.) Black looks, — 

use of glass and water - 10 

Grimsel : — Supper, 2 frs. 10s.; bed, 

1 fr. - - - - 3 10 

Twenty-sixth day. 
Grimsel: — Breakfast - - I 10 

Handeck: — Refreshment - - 10 
Meyringen : — Dinner, 4 frs. : bed, 

2 frs. - - -60 

Twenty-seventh day. 
Breakfast - --20 

One-half the expense of a guide to 
Grindelwald, Lauterbninnen, 
and Interlacken - - 9 

Drink-geld - --10 

Grindelwald : — Dinner and bed - 4 
Twenty-eighth day. 
Breakfast - - - 1 10 

Lauterbrunnen : — Dinner - -30 
Interlacken : — Supper and bed - 5 
Twenty-ninth day. 
Breakfast, dinner, and tea - 5 

Wine - - - - 1 10 

Thirtieth day. 
Breakfast - - - 1 10 

Diligence to Newhause - - 1 

Lake of Thun : — Steam-packet to 

Thun - - - 3 

Dinner, 4 frs. ; bed, 2 frs. - -60 
Thirty-first day. 
Thun :— Breakfast - - 1 10 

Diligence to Berne - - 3 10 

Berne : — Dinner, 4 frs. ; bed, 2 frs. - 6 
Thirty-second day. 
Breakfast, 2 frs. ; dinner, 4 frs. ; 

bed, 2 frs. - - 8 

Thirty third to the Forty-second day. 
Excursions to Solothurn, Weissen- 
stein, Bienne, Neufchatel, Mo- 
rat, Aventicum, and Fribourg 50 
Forty-third day. 
Fribourg to Lausanne - - 10 

Lausanne :— -Dinner, 4 frs. ; bed, 

3 frs. - .-70 



3 



1 



fr. s. 
Forty-fourth day. 
Breakfast - - - 2 10 

Luggage to Ouchi - - 1 

Lake of Geneva : — Steam-packet to 

Vevey - - -SO 

Vevey;— Dinner, 3 frs.; bed, Ifr. 10 s. 4 10 

Forty-fifth day. 

Breakfast - - - 1 10 

Omnibus to Bex - - -210 

Bex:— Dinner - - - 2 10 

Martigny :— Tea, 1 fr. 10 s. ; bed, 

1 fr. 10 s. ... 

Forty-sixth day. 

Breakfast - - - 

Orsieres : — Refreshment 

Liddes : — Dinner, 1 fr. 10 s. ; bed, 1 fr. 

Bottle of wine - - 

Forty-seventh day. 
Hire of a mule from Liddes to St 

Bernard and back same day - 6 
Breakfast - - - 1 

St Bernard: — Dinner, nix; put into 

the box - - - 5 

Half the expense of a car from 

Orsieres to Martigny - - 3 
Martigny :— Tea, 1 fr. 10 s. ; bed, 

1 fr. 10 s. - - -30 

Forty-eighth day. 
Breakfast - - - 1 10 

Half the expense of a guide to 
Chamounix 
Trient : — Dinner and wine 
Chamounix: — Tea, 1 fr. 10 s.; bed, 

2 frs. 

Forty-ninth day. 
Breakfast - - . 

One cutlet _ - . 

Montanvert: — Refreshment 
Chamounix: — Dinner, 3 frs. ; bed, 
2 frs. 

Fiftieth day. 
Breakfast - - - 

One cutlet - . . 

StGervais: — Dinner 
St Martin's :— Tea, Ifr. 10 s. : bed, 
1 fr. 10 s. 

Fifty-first day. 
Breakfast 
Diligence to Geneva 

Fifty-seventh to the Sixtieth day 
Geneva: — Three days, at 8 frs. a day 24 
Diligence to Lyons 
Expenses on the road - 
Sixty-first day. 
Lyons: — Breakfast, 1 fr. 10 s. ; din- 
ner, 3 frs.; bed, 2 frs. - - 6 10 
Sixty-second day. 
Breakfast, 1 fr. 10 s. ; dinner, 3 frs. 4 10 
Diligence to Paris - - 50 

Expenses on the road - - 20 

Sixty -third to Sixty-sixth day. 
Paris to London - - - 50 

Expenses on the road - - 1 



6 





4 





3 


10 


2 








10 


1 


10 


5 





2 








10 


3 





3 





2 





6 





24 





22 


10 


6 






Total 1/. 18s. 6d. and frs. 737 5 



A similar table is given for Italy in the Hand-Book for that Country. 



Ivii 



TABLE OF EXPENSES OF A TOUE TKROUGH ITALY, 
Occupying from about Ten to Twelve Weeks. 



- 50 



4 50 



Francs. Cents, 
Geneva to Baveno, by dili- 
gence 

First day. 
At Lausanne : — Dinner, 3 frs. ; 
tea, 1 fr. 50 c. - 

Second day. 
Meurice : — Breakfast - 
Sion: — Dinner - - - 
Brigg: — Supper - - - 

Third day. 
Simplon : — Dinner 
Domo d'Ossolo: — Supper, 3 
frs. ; bed, 2 frs. - - - 
Fare from Domo to Baveno - 



3 



Fourth day. 

Baveno: — Breakfast - - 1 50 

One-fourth expense to visit 
the Borromean Islands, and 
bouno mano to gardeners - 2 

Dinner, 3 frs. ; bed, 2 frs. ; 

breakfast, 1 fr. 50 c. - - 6 50 

One-fourth the expense of an 
excursion from Lago Mag- 
giore to Lago Como would 
be 12 frs. 

Fifth day. 

Steamer to Sesto Calende -30 

Sesto Calende, dinner - -30 

Diligence to Milan - - 6 50 

Sixth to the Ninth day. 
Milan : — Three beds, 6 frs. ; 
three breakfasts, 4 frs. 50 c. ; 
three dinners, 12 frs. ; three 
teas, 4 frs. 50 c. ; servants 
of the hotel, 3 frs. - - 30 



Passport _ - - - 

Tenth day^ 

Malle-poste to Genoa - 
Dinner, en route - - - 

Eleventh day. 

Genoa:— Porterage to hotel, 

1 fr. ; breakfast, 1 fr. 50 c. ; 

dinner at table-d'hote, 3 

frs. ; tea, 1 fr. 50 c. ; bed, 2 frs. 

Twelfth day. 

Genoa : — Breakfast, 1 fr. 50 c. ; 
dinner, 3 frs. ; tea, 1 fr. 50 c. ; 
bed, 2 frs. ; servants, 2 frs. 

Thirteenth day, 

Genoa : — Breakfast, 1 fr. 50 c. ; 

dinner, 3 frs. - 
Signing passport for Leghorn 
Fare by steamer to Leghorn - 
Porterage and boatage 

Fourteenth day. 
Leghorn : — Boatage, 1 fr. ; 

porterage to hotel, 1 fr. 
Dinner . - - - 

Excursion to Pisa, and return 

by railway, 10 frs. 
Excursion to Pisa, Lucca, and 

baths of Lucca, six days, 

would be 100 frs. 
Fare by steamer to Naples 



5 



36 
3 



9 



10 



4 50 
12 50 
45 

2 



100 



Francs 372 50 



Leghorn :~ 
Boatage ■ 



■Passport signing 



Pauls. 

- 12 

- 2 



Iviii 



EXPENSES OF A TOUR THROUGH ITALY. 



Fifteenth day. 
Civita Vecchia : — Landing 
returning - - - 



and 



Pauls 17 
Sixteenth day. 

CAKIilNS. 

Naples : — Landing, 2 carlins ; 
dogana, 1 carlin; hackney 
carriage, 2 carlins - - - 5 

Six dinners at 12 carlins, 72 ; six 
teas, 4 carlins, 24 ; bed, 6 car- 
lins, 36 132 

Servants, six days - - - 36 

Excursions to Pompeii, Vesu- 
vius, Caserta, Pozzuoli, &c., 
six days, at 48 carlins per day 288 

Twenty-ninth day. 

Signing passport for Rome: — 14 
Steamer to Civita Vecchia - 132 

Hackney carriage to boat, 3 car- 
lins ; boat, 3 carlins - _ 6 

49 piasters, 11 carlins. 613 



Thirtieth day. Pauls. 

Civita Vecchia: — Expenses for 
landing, &c. - - - - 5 
Diligence to Rome - - - 20 
Passport signing - - - 6 
Expenses on the road - - 4 

Thirty-first to Forty-third day. 
Rome : — Twelve dinners with 
wine, at 6 pauls 
Twelve teas, at 3 pauls - 
Twelve beds, at 5 pauls - 
Twelve breakfasts at 4 pauls 
Signing passport - 



Forty-third to Forty-eighth day. 
One-fourth of a carriage from 
Rome to Florence, five days - 110 

Making altogether 

597 francs, equal to about 
570 pauls „ 

50 piasters „ 



Forty-eighth to Fifty-fourth day. 

Florence :— Six breakfasts, 3 pis. 18 

Six dinners, 5 pauls - - 30 

Six teas, 3 pauls - - - 18 

Six beds, 5 pauls - - - 30 

Signing passports for Venice - 5 
One-fourth of a carriage from 

Florence to Padua - - - 90 

Pauls 570 

Fifty-fourth to Fifty-ninth day. 
Including one day at Bologna. 



Sixtieth day. 




Francs. Cents. 

Padua : — Bed, 2 frs. ; break- 
fast, 1 fr. 50 c. - - - 3 50 

Railroad to Mestre, and boat 
to Venice - - - - 5 

Venice :— Dinner, table d'hote 3 


Sixty-first to Sixty-fourth day. 




Venice: — Four days' break- 
fasts ----- 6 
Four dinners - - - 12 
Four teas - - - - 6 
Four beds - - ™ 8 
Four days' gondolas - - 10 









Sixty-fifth day. 




Diligence from Venice to Mi- 
lan 50 

Expenses on the road - - 6 






Sixty-sixth to Sixty-ninth day. 
Milan to Basle, by St Gothard 85 
Three days' expenses - - 30 






Francs 224 50 


£. 9. d. 

23 17 6 
12 12 
11 5 



£47 14 6 



The above expenses do not include fees to valets-de-place, theatres, 
washing, carriages in towns, fees to custodes,&c. &c., which may be calculated 
at 250 frs. more ; and adding lOZ. each way from England to Switzerland, will 
make the expense 70Z. or the entire trip through Belgium up the Rhine, 
Switzerland, Italy, returning through France, stopping fourteen days in 
Paris, liberally for 100/., or upon the screw for about 80/. 



lix 



PREFACE. 



A VOLUME similar to the present has been promised since the 
year 1836, when my ' Guide through Switzerland' was first pub- 
lished ; but the ' Hand-Book for Northern Germany,' published by 
Mr Murray early in 1837 with considerable success — announced as 
nearly rtady similar works for every corner of Europe (though 
' Southern Italy' has not yet appeared). It was therefore thought 
useless to enter into competition with one commanding such great 
advantages. The facilities which existed to compile a good and 
useful Guide for Belgium, Holland, and the Rhine, did not extend 
to Italy : and without wishing to depreciate the only English Guide 
Book for travellers that existed for that country, it must have been 
evident that a want of system in the arrangement, and the very 
incorrect details, in Madame Starke's work, offered a fair opening 
for a useful Guide Book for Italy ; but Schrieber and myself had 
confined our topographical routes north of the Alps, giving the plan 
of which the writer availed himself.* * Northern Italy,' written by 

Sir Francis Plagrave, assisted by Mrs Col. S d, is now before the 

public ; and whatever may be its merits as an historical compilation 
from the works of our best authors, as a Guide Book for strangers 
in a foreign land, it is either faulty or deficient. Captain Marryat, 
as editor of the * Metropolitan Magazine,' when reviewing the 
Second Edition of my ' Guide up the Rhine,' in the April number 
of 1886, says, — " Sights, antiquities, and other avowed purposes of 
travellers, will be found naturally enough, and give much pleasure 
in the pursuit ; but we want a friend like Mr Coghlan, or Mr 
Coghlan's book, to prevent us being over-reached by a post- 
master, or overcharged by an hotel-keeper. Now, ' Northern Italy ' 
is not only generally deficient in this pounds-shillings-and-pence 
information, but when the writer condescends to mention such 
trifles, they are erroneous. The characters given in several towns 
respecting the inns are also incorrect ; some closed for several 
years have been strongly recommended, and third-class houses have 
been reported as first-rate. I particularly instance those of Genoa, 
Florence, Lucca, and Leghorn. Canova's Venus in the Pitti 
Palace in Florence is described as in " an apartment of her own, 

* I take credit to myself for originating and carrying out in the first edition of my 
'Guide up the Rhine,' published in 1835, the plan of describing that river from the sea to 
its source. Mr Murray adopted it without acknowledgment. 



Ix 

richly fitted up with drapery and mirrors." This celebrated statue 
is in the Saloon Flora, and it is a great fact that she has been in 
her present position nine years ! The Ducal Crown and Cushion, 
represented as being in the Medicean Chapel, have never been seen 
by the present custode during the twelve years he has filled the 
situation. To prove that the errors are not confined to ' Northern 
Italy' alone, at page 70 of Central Italy' the Tuscan frontier Cus- 
tom house where luggage is examined and where passports are vise, 
is represented at Petramala, when every person who has travelled 
that road since 1835 has found it in a large building at Filigare ! 
These little blunders may or may not be of importance to the 
curious traveller, but it is a certain disappointment to a dying man 
when sending for the "strongly recommended" physician, to learn 
that the doctor has been dead these five years ! This was the case 
with respect to Drs Lee and Evanson at Rome in 1844. Were it 
necessary to continue in this fault-finding strain, I could increase 
the size of the preface to that of the text : but it is not ; as 
the Italian scarlet fever has nearly subsided, and although this 
BLUE PILL cannot be expected to effect a radical cure, compounded 
(I mean compiled) and printed in the short space of one month, yet 
it is hoped that the traveller in Italy will find by taking even the 
first dose (i. e. edition) considerable relief will follow. 

The intention of the above observations is not of course to depreciate 
the value of the Red Hand-Books, but to convince the traveller that, 
with the extensive resources possessed by Mr Murray, the payment 
of the liberal sum of one thousand pounds for the compilation of 
a Hand-Book — and the space of between three and four years 
being devoted to that purpose, could not produce a perfect Guide 
Book — it will be unreasonable to expect that the present volume, 
got up by the most hasty and economical means, unassisted by the 
" cream of literature," could possibly be free from errors ; but 
stimulated by the hope of a continuation of that patronage which 
has hitherto, for nearly twenty years, been extended to my former 
works, I have laboured incessantly both in Italy and since this work 
has been in the press, to produce a simple, unassuming, but I hope 
useful. Guide Book. As such I trust it will be received \ and any 
communication or suggestion from those who may use it in their 
journeyings through that delightful country will be thankfully and 
readily attended to. 



AND-BOOK FOE OENTKIL EUROPE, 



OR 



GUIDE-BOOK FOR TRAVELLERS. 



PART I. HOLLAND. 



ROUTE I. 

LONDON TO ROTTERDAM. 

Steam Packets leave London re- 
gularly for Kotterdam twice a week 
during the summer months. These 
boats belong to the General Steam 
Navigation Company, which convey 
the mails every Wednesday and 
Saturday throughout the year. The 
vessels on this station are fast, com- 
modious, and conveniently fitted up, 
possessing state cabins, well adapt- 
ed for private families, spacious din- 
ing rooms, unconnected with the 
sleeping berths ; and last, though 
not least, well and plentifully sup- 
plied tables. It is recommended 
that berths be secured some days 
previous to the vessel's leaving Lon- 
don, as there is great difference in 
iheir construction. This may be 
done at any of the of&ces in the 
City or West-end. Travellers can 
also book themselves from London 
to all places on the Hhine, and may 
stop at whatever place they choose. 

The Steam Packet Com^panies 
print monthly lists stating the exact 
time of their boats leaving for 
Rotterdam, Antwerp, and Ostend, 
which may be had by application 
at the General Steam Navigation 
Company's Of&ces, 69, Lombard- 
street, or 37, E-egent-circus. The 
passage is usually made in from 
twenty -two to twenty-four hours. 



Price of Refreshments on board the 
Steam Packets from London. 

s. d. 
Dinnor for private party, each ..50 
Breakfast do. ..26 

Tea 16 

Dinner, table d'hote 3 

Breakfast, with meat and eggs . 2 

Luncheon, cold meat 10 

Sandwiches 6 

Steward's fee ........ 2 

Reduced Fares from London to 
Rotterdam. 

se. s. d- 

Chief cabin 1 10 

Fore cabin ...100 

Carriages, four wheels ... 3 

Chariots 2 10 

Gig 2 

Horses 2 10 

Dogs 026 

Watermen's Fares. 

s. d. 
To or from steam or other vessels, 

for one person 4 

Exceeding one person, each ... 3 
This fare includes 56 lbs. of luggage 

each person. 
If exceeding 56 lbs. the cwt. ..10 

Description of the Banks <f the . 
Thames. 

London Bridge^ the Custom House, 
and the Tower are the first objects 
which attract the attention of stran- 
gers, then the labyrinth of ships 
from all parts of the world, not to 
be equalled in any other part of the 
globe, continuing through the upper 
and lower Pool, the elegant steeple 



2 



ROUTE 1. — LONDON TO ROTTERDAM. — PART I. 



of Limehouse church on the left at- 
tracts our notice, passing Cuckold's 
Point on the right, "where a large 
pair of horns used formerly to be 
suspended, we reach 

Deptford. The vessel belonging 
to the Marine Society is used as a 
refuge for poor boys found wander- 
ing about the streets of London, 
destitute of clothes and friends, and 
placed in order to their being made 
fit for her Majesty's naval service. 
Also two vessels as chapels for sea- 
men. 

Greenwich Hospital was built in 
the reign of King Charles the Se- 
cond. It consists of four distinct 
piles of building, with a grand square 
between , in the centre of which is a 
statue of George II. Beyond the 
square are the hall and chapel, with 
their noble domes and two colon- 
nades, which form an avenue, ter- 
.minated by the Ranger's lodge ; and 
in the park, on an eminence, amidst 
a grove of elm and chestnut trees, is 
the E-oyal Observatory, or Flam- 
stead House, which is completely 
furnished with mathematical and op- 
tical instruments, for the use of the 
Astronomer Royal. 

The Isle of Dogs is so called 
from its being reported that a water- 
man, having murdered a man who 
had a dog with him, the animal 
would not leave its dead master 
till hunger constrained him to swim 
over to Greenwich, which being 
frequently repeated, was observed 
by the watermen plying there, who 
following the dog, by that means 
discovered the body of the murdered 
man. Soon after, the dog, return- 
ing on his usual errand to Green- 
wich, snarled at a waterman who 
sat there, and would not be beaten 
oif, which caused the bystanders, 
w^ho knew of the murder, to ap- 
prehend him, who afterwards con- 
fessed the fact, and was hanged on 
the spot. 

At Blackwall is a singular high 
wooden building painted red, be- 



longing to Mr. Parry, ship-builder, 
for placing and replacing the mast 
of ships, which attracts much nn • 
tice. The new building on the le. . 
is the terminus of the Blackwall 
railway. 

Woolwich was formerly a small 
fishing place, thinly inhabited, but 
is now, owing to its Dockyard, of 
much importance ; the church is one 
of the fifty built by Queen Anne. 

Barking Reach is noted for the 
number of small fishing boats lying 
there belonging to the fishermen of 
the town of Barking, situated three 
miles distant, which are chiefly 
employed in the cod and haddock 
fishery. 

The Village of Erith presents a 
fine landscape. This place was for- 
merly famous for smuggling. A 
short distance from the town is its 
neat church, partly covered with ivy, 
above which is a tower, or pleasure- 
house in a park, belonging to Lord 
Saye and Sele. 

Purjieet^ formerly Pourtefleet, 
anciently belonging to the prior of 
St. John of Jerusalem. The Board 
of Ordnance have here erected 
some well-contrived magazines for 
gunpowder, strongly arched, and 
every way well secured from fire 
and lightning. This place, though 
small, is populous, and the work- 
men employed in the chalk, lime, 
and sand works, so often find them- 
selves thirsty, that it is no wonder 
we see here such a large public 
house. 

The village and church of Stone 
next presents itself, interspersed 
within an orchard, and affords both 
in spring and autumn one of the 
most luxurious views imaginable. 

Greenhithe also has a neat ap- 
pearance from the river. Ingress 
Park, the Seat of James Harmer, 
Esq., adjoining, presents a most 
beautiful landscape. 

We next arrive at a part of the 
Thames called Fidler^s Reach, so 
called from the circumstance of 



ROUTE 1. — BANKS OF THE THAJfES. 



three fiddlers having been drowned 
there. On an eminence near Grays 
is the seat of Zachariah Button, 
Esq. On a small arm of the south 
side of the river is Northfieet. 
lYom this place the stately man- 
sion called Orms, or the Orm, is 
seen to great advantage. Immense 
quantities of chalk are here taken 
from the pits and sent to distant 
places. 

Gravesend, a populous town, and 
thoroughfare, is situated on a de- 
clivity leading to the Thames, and 
partly in the parish of Milton, 
which adjoins to that of Gravesend 
on the east side. 

Within the last 10 years the town 
has experienced an immense m- 
crease in its traffic, and in the 
number of its buildings, from the 
numerous elegant steam -packets 
which ply between this place and 
Ijondon, affording a cheap and 
comfortable communication be- 
tween Chatham, Maidstone, Can- 
terbury, &c. There are three piers, 
the Eosherville, the Town, and 
Terrace. The Railway from Graves- 
end to Chatham was opened on the 
10th of February, 1845. 

Tilburij Fort, on the opposite 
shore, was erected in the time of 
Henry VIII, and afterwards regu- 
larly fortified by Sir Martui Beck- 
mann, chief enguieer to Charles 11, 
after the Dutch had been up to 
Chatham and burnt our ships. The 
esplanade is very extensive, and 
the bastions considerably the larg- 
est in England; the chief strength 
of the place consists in its being 
possible to flood the whole level, 
by means of the water-gate in the 
centre of the great curtain next the 
river ; about two miles from the 
Fort there are still many traces 
of the Roman highways, and also 
of the encampment of Queen Eli- 
zabeth this being the grand ren- 
dezvous; of the army, as Purfleet 
was of the navy, during Philip's 
threatened invasion. 



At Denton Mills, the next object 
on the Kentish shore below Graves- 
end, coals are landed free from the 
London duty, not being within the 
jurisdiction of that port. 

Gad's Hill — Being still in 
Gravesend Reach, the counties on 
both sides exhibit a most interest- 
ing appearance. On the Essex side, 
the church of East Tilbury is seen ; 
and next to this, the church of 
Mucking, with a shingled spire oil 
a tower steeple. 

The Lower Hope. — Entering that 
part of the river so called, the 
southern side of which is formed 
by Gravesend and Milton marshes, 
those of Higham and Cliff, the Hun- 
dred of Hoe, and the Island of Grain, 
we soon discover that this is a pe- 
ninsula, formed by the Thames and 
the Medway ; and that the Essex 
shore is a succession of low un- 
healthy groimds, tiU the river sepa- 
rates Canvey Island from it. Stan- 
ford le Hope church, with its tower,, 
Corningham church, vrith a shingled 
spire, Fobbin chm'ch, with a lofty 
embattled tower steeple, and Pitt- 
sea church, are aU objects seen in 
succession. 

Hole Haven, six miles from East 
Tilbury, next presents itself on our 
left. Sea-Reach begins here, where 
a natural commodious harljour is 
formed. Approaching Canvey Is- 
lands, on our left, it is found to be 
five miles in length, and two in 
breadth, a marshy tract, containing 
about 3,500 acres. It is remarkable 
for the empty cockleshells that 
cover the strand: the extreme parts, 
are bounded by a branch of the 
Thames, called Leigh Road. 

Leigh, on the same side, is 2l 
port much frequented by hoys and 
small craft, and affords a road for 
shipping between this place and 
Southend. 

Southend lies to our left, and 
first attracted notice as a water- 
mg place about thirty years ago : 
it is beautifully situated on a well- 



ROUTE 1. — BANKS OP THE THAMES. PART I. 



cultivated and well-wooded hill, 
little more than forty miles from 
London. The beautiful terrace is 
commonly caUed New Southend, 
and being built on a considerable 
eminence, gives the whole range 
an elegant appearance, especially 
from the Thames. Not far from 
Southend, a stone marks the juris- 
diction of the Lord Mayor of London. 

The woody character of the ad- 
jacent country, the vast breadth of 
the river, and the mouth of the 
Medway, forming a luminous break 
on the coast of Kent, compose a 
scene which at once charms and 
interests the beholder. 

Shoeberry A^css, beyond Southend, 
is the next prominent object on this 
side. 

On the further side of the river, 
and about three mUes from its en- 
trance, is Stangate Creek. Here 
ships coming from the Levant, or 
places where any suspicion of con- 
tagion is entertained, are obliged 
to perform quarantine, before they 
proceed further up the river ; they 
are always distmguished by a yel- 
low flag at the mast-head. 

Sheer ness. — The Island of Sheppy, 
next approached, is separated from 
the rest of Kent by an arm of the 
sea commmiicating with the Med- 
way. It is eight miles from Hole 
Haven. This island is rapidly 
encroached on by the sea: whole 
acres, with houses upon them, 
have been carried away in a single 
storm. It is about thirteen miles in 
length, and six in breadth ; and the 
water flowing between this and the 
main land is called the Swale, and 
on the two extremities of it, East 
and West Swale. On the east point 
of the island, the Columbine and 
Spaniard buoys are placed. 

The royal dock was made ad- 
joining to it, principally for repair- 
ing ships that are but partially 
damaged, and for building frigates 
and smaller vessels, from forty 
guns doAvnwards. 



The Nore is an estuary, and is 
properly the water wliich runs 
between the Isles of Grain and 
Sheppy: here it is that the rivers 
Thames and Medway lose their 
names, and are called the Nore. 
The current is described as making 
a swifter course than at any other 
place on the coast. 

The Nore Light, moored near the 
sand, is erected nightly for the ad- 
vantage of mariners, and is about 
four miles from the shore ; having 
passed which, the next object to our 
right is Queenborough. 

Whitstable is on the east of Sheppy, 
an improving town, and the nearest 
port to Canterbury. 

Here is a considerable fishery for 
oysters, which are of the most de- 
licious flavour, and in great demand 
in London, where they are in greater 
perfection than at any other place. 
OflF the bay is the Paddington Kock, 
so dangerous to coasting vessels. 

Heme Bay has, for many years 
past, been a select retreat for sea- 
bathing ; the Une of shore possessing 
peculiar advantages as a watering- 
place, standing on an easy elevation, 
commanding a most delightful view 
of the ocean, without any accumu- 
lation of mud from the flow of the 
tide. 

The salubrity of the air of Heme 
Bay has been long noted in history, 
from its gentle elevation, clear of 
those stagnant pools and marshes 
and low woodlands which prevent a 
free circulation of the air in many 
other parts of the coast. 



The stoppage of the vessel in the 
morning announces the arrival at 
the BrUl, where the Dutch Custom- 
house officers examine the papers, 
&c. ; it is fortified, and contains a po- 
pulation chiefiy consisting of pilots 
and fishermen, exceeding three thou- 
sand. It was taken from the Span- 
iards by the Dutch, in 1572, and 
the foundation of the Batavian re- 
public was then laid here : the cele- 



HOLLAND. ROUTE 1.— ROTTERDAM. 



brated Admiral Tromp was bom at 
Brill. 

Maaslandsluys is chiefly supported 
by the cod and herring fisheties. 
Further on the left, inland, is Schie- 
dam, celebrated for its geneva ; 
nearer Rotterdam, and on the left, 
is Delfshaven; it contains a commo- 
dious port, and extensive docks and 
warehouses. 

ROTTERDAM. 

Hotels. Hotel des Pays Ba^. — 

This is a well-conducted house, con- 
veniently situated on the Boompjes. 
The apartments are numerous and 
handsomely fitted up, commanding a 
fine view of the river and shipping ; 
the proprietor (Mr. "Walter) is re- 
markable for his civility and atten- 
tion. 

To this hotel baths and excellent 
coach-houses and stabling are at- 
tached, and table-d'hote at four 
o^clock. The charges are rather ex- 
travagant ; in the summer of 1846 a 
young lady, only 10 years of age, 
was charged every meal the full price 
of a grown person. 

New Bath Hotel also on the 
Boompjes, very good and reason- 
able, with great civility and atten- 
tion. 

Rotterdam is situated in the centre 
of South Holland, on the north side 
of the Maze, twelve miles north- 
west from Dordrecht, twelve miles 
south-west from Gouda, thirteen 
miles south-east from the Hague, 
eight miles from Delft, and three 
miles from Schiedam. Population. 
75,000. 

The city, which in size, beauty 
of its buildings, trade, and opulence, 
is, next to Amsterdam, the most 
considerable place of all the northern 
Netherlands, was but the seventh in 
rank as a city at the assembly of 
the Provincial States of Holland 



under the Confederation; Dord- 
recht, Haarlem, Delft, Leyden, Am- 
sterdam, and Gouda, preceding 
according to the dates of the grants 
by which their municipal rights 
had successively been conferred. 

Its primitive existence as a small 
hamlet, however, may be traced to 
a period nearly as early as the year 
900, when first a dam or dyke was 
raised to defend the banks of the 
small stream, the Rotte, from being 
submerged by the impulse of the 
waters of the Maze. This dyke 
was since called the Oude Dyke, a 
second or New Dyke (the present 
High Street) having been raised 
about a hundred years later. 

The ground plan of the city is 
that of a triangle, the base being the 
quay we have mentioned, stretching 
along the river, and a perpendicular, 
drawn from it to the opposite ex- 
tremity, may be somewhat less than 
a mile. Through the middle of 
most of the streets runs a straight 
canal, where the largest ships may 
conveniently load and unload at the 
doors of the warehouses, bordered 
by large, lofty, and healthy trees. 
They are crossed by numerous draw- 
bridges, which, mixed with the 
shipping, the trees, and the houses, 
have a very picturesque eflPect. Be- 
tween the trees aud each of the 
canals is the quay, which is of a 
width sufficient for shipping, land- 
ing, and receiving all articles of 
merchandize ; and within the row 
of trees is the paved streets for 
carts, carriages, and horses ; and 
between this again, and extending 
close to the fronts of the houses, is 
a paved footpath. In these canal 
streets there is an incessant and 
interesting bustle. 

The houses are generally spacious 
and lofty, some built in the modem, 
and others in the old Spanish style ; 
in many of the streets they are 
really elegant ; but belonging, as 
they do, chiefly to merchants and 
tradesmen, their magazines are 



ROUTE 1 — ROTTERDAM. PART 1. 



mostly on the ground floor, and ex- 
tend far behind, while the family 
inhabit the upper stories. Nothing 
can exceed the cleanliness observed 
in every part of their houses. 

To almost every house in Rot- 
terdam, and sometimes to every 
window of a house on the first 
floor, there is fixed a single or double 
looking glass or reflector, by means 
of which a person in the room, sit- 
ting before the window, can see by 
reflection the whole length of the 
street, the passengers, the trees, the 
canal, and the shipping. When 
two of these reflectors are placed at 
right angles, and the right angle 
pointed towards the window, a 
person within, directing the eye 
to that angle, will see the whole 
street both to the right and left. 
They are adopted for the amuse- 
ment of the ladies ! ! ! 

The stranger who has never seen a 
Dutch town must be much amused ; 
the combination of water, bridges, 
trees, and shipping, in the heart of 
a city, presents a novel and pictu- 
resque sight ; the quaint and very 
singular buildings, the horses' shoes, 
which resemble pattens, the wooden 
shoes (or sabots) of the peasants, 
are all novelties to the visitor. The 
principal objects that merit notice 
are — The Cathedral or Great Church 
of Sit. Lawrence, which contains the 
monuments of the Admirals de Witt, 
van Brakel, and Cortenaer, and a 
very fine organ. 

The bronze Statue of Erasmus, 
who was born at Rotterdam, the 
house is still to be seen in Breede 
Kert Straat n. 1467. 

The Exchange. The Stadt Huts, 
from the dome of which commands 
a most extensive prospect of the 
town and country, the Dockyard, 
all are novel and pleasing to the 
visitor- The philanthropist will 
derive much satisfaction also by 
visiting the Infant and Armenian 
(poor) schools. At Kotteixlam there 
is an English Episcopalian, as well 



as a Presbyterian and French Pro- 
testant church. There are also 
several clubs here, where English, 
and other newspapers are taken 
in ; -strangers can be introduced by a 
member. JElotterdam, like all Dutch 
towns, is remarkable for its cleanli- 
ness. 

Steam Packets to Hull from Rot- 
terdam every Saturday morning, 
fare £1 12s. 6d. chief cabin, and 15s. 
fore cabin ; carriages £4 4s. ; horses 
£3 3s. 

Steam Packets from Rotterdam 
to Antwerp four times a week — on 
Sundays, Mondays, Wednesdays, 
and Thursdays ; fare in the pavi- 
lion 8 florins (about 17 francs) ; 
saloon 6 florins. The distance is 
50 leagues, occupying about twelve 
hours. Monthly bills are published, 
both at Rotterdam and Antwerp, 
stating the hours of departure from 
each place. Refreshments may be 
had on board ; dinner 1 guilder, 
breakfast 75 cents. 

English Divine Service every Sun- 
day, at half-past 10 in the morning 
and 6 in the evening. 

Scotch Church Service every Sun- 
day at 10 and 2. 

Steamers ascend the Rhine every 
morning ; those belonging to the 
Dusseldorf Company, which leave 
four times a week are the best. (See 
page 22). 

Passports are granted by the 
British Consul, Sir James Henry 
Turing, Bart., every day during the 
usual office hours.. On Sundays only 
between one and two, and four and 
five ; but travellers should, if pos- 
sible, obtain a passport before leav- 
ing England, as the English Consuls 
abroad do not grant passports, unless 
to persons under very peculiar cir- 
cumstances. 

The Prussian Consul grants a 
vis^ in the event of the Prussian 
signature having been neglected in 
London. 

Post Office in Wien Straat. The 
regular mail days from Rotterdam 



HOLLAND. ROUTE 1. — ROTTERDAM. 



are Saturdays and Wednesdays ; 
but letters are forwarded both to 
London and Hull on other days, 
when opportunities offer. Letters 
are received on all occasions, up to 
within half an hour of the sailing 
of the vessel. 

The Railroad between Kotter- 
dam and the Hague is opened as 
far as Ketle (1847), and diligences, 
in correspondence with the railway 
from the Hague to Amsterdam, 
leave Rotterdam several times a 
day. 

ROUTE 2. 

ROTTERDAM TO AMSTERDAM. 

Posts. Miles. 

Rotterdam to the Hague 2J I3f 

The Hague to Leyden . . 2^ 12| 

Leyden to Haarlem ... 2 11 

Haarlem to Amsterdam .2 11 

8| 48i 

Conveyances to the Hague and 
Amsterdam. 

There are three methods of tra- 
velling in Holland, by road, by 
steam,* and by water. The latter 
is the cheapest. The trekschitit 
(passage boat) travels at the rate 
of about four miles an hour. The 
distance, in most cases, is nearly 
the same, as the straight line of 
road generally accompanies, in a 
parallel direction, the straight canal, 
and in most parts of it has a row 
of trees on each side. The whole 
length of the barge, which is usually 
thirty feet, is divided into two 
apartments or cabins, each about 
six feet wide and seven high. The 
larger room towards the prow of 
the boat, called the ruim, is for com- 
mon passengers and for the luggage, 
and will contain thirty or forty per- 
sons. The smaller cabin, towards 
the stern, called the roef, is engaged 



at a rather higher rate, and holds 
but eight ; and it m^y be secured 
at half price, or by paying the fare 
of four passengers. At every change 
of horses the driver {het jaggertie) 
expects a trifle; a stiver will abun- 
dantly satisfy him. 

The traveller should take as little 
luggage as possible with him on 
board the trekschuit, so as to be 
easily conveyed from one boat to 
another when they are changed. 

Boats from Rotterdam leave for 
Delft from the 1st of April to the 
SOfch of September, at every hour 
from six in the morning till eight at 
night ; to Amsterdam every day at 
twelve ; to the Hague everj' day at 
one o'clock; to Leyden every day 
at ten; to Haarlem, Wednesdays 
and Saturdays at nine; to Gouda 
every day at half-past eleven. 

The usual fare by the canal-boat 
from Rotterdam to the Hague is 
seventy cents, or about fourteen- 
pence. 

Diligences leave Rotterdam for 
Utrecht and Nimegen every morn- 
ing at half-past seven, and in the 
afternoon at four o'clock ; to the 
Hague at seven, eight, nine, and ten 
in the morning ; and in the after- 
noon at two, four, five, and six 
o'clock ; to Leyden at five and eleven 
in the morning, and at half-past 
two in the afternoon, and they leave 
at the same hours for Haarlem, 
from Rotterdam to Amsterdam at 
five, eleven, and twelve in the morn- 
ing, and in the afternoon at half- 
past two o'clock. 

Fare to Amsterdam 7 and 8 florius. 
Fare to the Hague 1 f. 20 c. and 1 f. 50 c. 

Diligence Office,^ are at the Hotel 
Lucas zndi Hotel d' Angleterre ; the 
latter in the Market place, the 
former in the Fish -market street. 



* The latest information respecting the railroads in every iiart of the continent 
will be found in Coghlan's Foreign Railway Guide, price Sixpence. 



ROUTE 2. — DELFT. PART 1, 



Leaviijg Eotterdam, the first vil- 
lage on the left is Overschie, two 
miles farther is Ketle^ also on the 
left, then Keneherg^ both at a little 
distance from the canal ; on each 
side presenting a continual succes- 
sion of neat but fantastic country 
seats, and the water being literally 
crowded with boats of every ap- 
pearance and description. Nine 
miles from Rotterdam is 

DELFT. 

{In Gouden Moulen.) Delft, an 
ancient town, containing 16,000 in- 
habitants. The streets have a neat 
but sombre appearance, and are 
divided by narrow stagnant canals, 
which are, however, frequently 
cleaned out by means of numerous 
sluices. In the centre of the town 
are two spacious streets, with broad 
canals bordered with trees. 

Delft was once celebrated for its 
potteries, the china from which was 
in great request throughout Europe ; 
but from the great improvement in 
the manufacture of china in Eng- 
land and Germany, the trade of 
this city has been almost annihi- 
lated. 

Delft gave birth to the learned 
GrotiiiS, whose remains are depo- 
sited ill the New Church. His mo- 
nument is simple and elegant. The 
view from the steeple of this church 
is esteemed the finest in Holland. 
This building likewise contains a 
superb monument to the memory of 
William I. prince of Orange, not to 
be exceeded by any piece of sepul- 
chral magnificence of that age in 
Europe. On a beautiful sarcopha- 
gus is the recumbent figure of the 
prince, with his favourite dog re- 
posing at his feet. At the four 
corners are bronze statues of Li- 
berty, Fortitude, Justice, and Reli- 
gion. Under an arch at the head 
of the tomb, the prince is again re- 
presented sitting, in full armour ; 



v^hile at the other extremity. Fame, 
with expanded wings, is preparing 
to proclaim the triumphs of the 
deliverer of Holland. Above is a 
noble canopy of exquisite workman- 
ship, supported by four buttresses 
of white marble and numerous pil- 
lars of black and gold. Waving 
over these are the various trophies 
and escutcheons of the house of 
Orange-Nassau. 

Near the Old Church is the Prin- 
senhof, the identical house in which 
William I. was assassinated. The 
staircase on which he fell, and the 
holes made in the wall by the bul- 
lets, are yet shown. The remains 
of the philosopher Leuwenhock, and 
the renowned Tromp, are interred 
in the Old Church ; and here also 
are the monuments of Admiral 
Piet Hein ; of Elizabeth de Marnix, 
daughter of Count Marnix, one of 
the most' active members of the 
federation of the nobles ; and of 
John Poot, the poet. 

The front of the Stadthouse is ex- 
tensive and curious, and the apart- 
ments contain some valuable paint- 
ings, particularly by Miereveid and 
Van Heemskerk. The principal 
arsenal of Holland is here ; it forms 
an island, having a canal on each 
side. Delft also possesses a Latin 
school mid several hospitals. 

Besides Grotius, Delft gave birth 
to Admiral Piet Hein and Leuwen- 
hock already noticed, as well as to 
Van Adrichem, the antiquary ; Pon- 
tus Heuterus, the historian; and 
Gerard Van Loon, the author of the 
Metallography of Holland. 

Boats set out for the Hague every 
half-hour; for Rotterdam every 
hour ; for Leyden every two hours ; 
for Amsterdam every day. 

At i^yMfJi/i^, three miles from Delft, 
the prince of Orange had a palace, 
in which was signed the treaty of 
1697, between England, Germany, 
Holland, trance, and Spain. A 
pyramid commemorative of this 
event was erected in 1792, by order 



HOLLAND. — ROUTE 2. — THE HAGUE. 



of William V. stadtholder, on the 
ruins of the palace. 

Leaving Voorburg on the right, 
four and a half miles from Delft, the 
traveller arrives at 

THE HAGUE. 

Hotel Belle-vue^ Mr. R. Maitland, 
proprietor. This hotel is pleasantly 
situate opposite the Park, in the 
most beautiful part of the Hague, 
near the promenades and public 
buildings, and conducted by the pro- 
prietor in a style suitable to the 
reception of families of the first dis- 
tinction. The house is elegantly fur- 
nished, and contains thirteen saloons 
and lifty-four bed rooms ; an excel- 
lent table d'hote at half-past four 
daily, four francs. Bed room three 
francs, breakfast one and a halff ranc. 

Oucle Doelen. Nieuwe Doelen. 

Though denominated a village, 
the Hague yields to few of the no- 
blest cities in Europe in the beauty 
of its streets, the magnificence of its 
palaces, and the pleasantness of its 
situation. The principal street is 
called the Voorhout, but it is rather 
a series of palaces than a street. 
Several rows of trees are in the cen- 
tre, with gravel walks beneath them, 
and a carriage-way on each side. 
These trees are preserved with as 
much religious care as those of the 
Royal Wood. 

The most beautiful part of the 
Hague is the Vyverberg, a vast ob- 
long square, with a noble walk and 
an avenue of trees on one side, and 
on the other the palace and a large 
basin of water. The beautiful broad 
street which joins the Vyverberg is 
called the Plaats. Near the trees, 
and towards the centre of the street, 
is a triangle paved with whiter stones 
than the other parts of the street, 
which denotes the spot where Ade- 
laide de Poelgeest, the mistress of 
Count Albert, was massacred, Sep- 
tember 22nd, 1392, during a popular 
insurrection. 

The Binnenhof, or Inner Court, 
is surrounded by an enormous pile 



of houses of different architecture, 
principally occupied as government 
offices. The Great Hall, which not 
long ago was used for the meetings 
of the deputies of the provinces, and 
was adorned with military trophies, 
is now occupied as the Lottery 
Office. It is a noble room, one 
hundred and twenty-five feet long ; 
sixty broad, and sixty-sis high. 
On a scaffold opposite the door of 
this apartment the venerable Barne- 
veldt was decapitated, May 13, 1619. 

The Royal Museum occupies the 
house called Hotel Maurice, vv-hich 
was built in 1640, by a prince of 
this name, who was a governor of 
Brazil. It contains a choice collec- 
tion of pictures, particularly of thev 
Flemish school. Amongst them is 
the celebrated Bull, by Paul Pot- 
ter. This picture gallery is open to 
the public every day, from 11 to 3. 

The ground floor consists of five 
rooms, and is occupied by the Chi- 
nese Cabinet, which consists of a 
very curious and choice collection 
of articles manufactured in China, 
and brought here at a great ex- 
pense. Amongst them is a beauti- 
ful model of the interior of a Dutch 
town. One of the rooms of the cabi- 
net contains the complete armour 
of Admiral S-uiter (No. in the cata- 
logue, 726); the clothes worn by 
William I., the founder of Batavian 
liberty, at the time when he was 
assassinated by Geraerts at Delft, 
July 1 0, 1584 (No. 755). Here also 
is preserved the ball which killed 
him. In another room is an inge- 
nious plan of the Isle of Desima, 
where the Dutch land for the pur- 
pose of facilitating their trade with 
the Japanese. In one of the rooms 
there is a model of the interior of a 
house completely furnished, made 
by order of Peter the Great ; it cost 
30,000 francs, and took twenty-five 
years to complete (No. 756). The 
museum is open to the public every 
day from eleven to one, except Sun- 
days and Thursdays ; a catalogue 
costs tenpence. 



10 



ROUTE 2. — THE HAGUE. PART I. 



The Royal Library contains no 
•less than 100,000 volumes, which are 
kept with the greatest care. They 
occupy three floors, divided into 18 
rooms. Amongst the MSS. is the 
original of the Union of Utrecht, 
signed January 23rd, 1579. The 
library is open to the public on Mon- 
day?, Wednesdays, and Fridays, ex- 
cept on holidays, from ten till two ; 
but strangers may see it every day. 

In the same house as the library 
is the Cabinet of Medals^ which is 
one of the richest collections of the 
kind. It consists of 36,000 pieces, 
32,675 of which are medals, and 
1.325 intaglios. Open on Mondays, 
Wednesd. and Frids. from 10 to 2. 

The valuable Mtiseum of Natu- 
ral History, which was removed to 
Paris during the revolution, has been 
restored, or rather, by an amicable 
arrangement, a far richer collection 
than the original has been formed 
from the duplicates of the grand mu- 
seum at Paris. 

The Moyal Palace is an ancient 
building ; the front is very plain, but 
the side towards the garden is more 
ornamented. The apartments may 
be seen when their Majesties are 
not residing at the Hague. 

Opposite to the entrance to the 
palace is a beautiful bronze eques- 
trian statue of William the First, by 
Count Niewkirk, erected in the au- 
tumn of 1845. 

The Nev) Picture Gallery be- 
longing to the present King of Hol- 
land, is a new building, the chief 
apartment of which is an elegant 
Gothic Hall, splendidly furnished. 
A great many of the gems are found 
here which formerly enriched the 
Orange Palace in Brussels; indeed, 
it has been remarked by good judges 
that there is not a bad picture in the 
entire collection. Maybe seen daily 
from nine till twelve. A fee of one 
guilder is expected by the custode, 
wljich is sufficient for a party. 

The Theatre is a neat but small 
building, with commodious entrances, 
the interior is tastefully fitted up 



with the royal box in the centre . 

The performances are occasionally in 
the French language. 

Carriages — First hour, 1^ guil- 
der; to the House in the Wood, 2 
guilders ; by the day, 10 guilders. 

Omnibuses attend the arrival of 
the trains ; each passenger, 4 stivers, 
to Schevelingen 3 stivers, to the 
baths 4 stivers. 

At the distance of half a league 
north-east from the Hague, is the 

Palace iji the Wood, formerly the 
summer residence of the Princes of 
Orange, and erected by Amelia of 
Solms, widow of Prince Frederick 
Henry of Orange-Nassau. The 
painted saloon and the Chinese 
tapestry are truly magnificent. The 
former, called Oranje-zaal, is an 
octagon, covered by a cupola sixty 
feet in height. The centre of the 
ceiling is adorned with a portrait of 
the princess who erected the build- 
ing. The great masters of the Fle- 
mish and Dutch schools vied in their 
efforts to decorate the walls of this 
immense apartment. On one side 
may be seen a large and beautiful 
picture by Jordaens ; and on the 
right of the entrance, nearly opposite 
to this superb composition, is a paint- 
ing by Kubens, representing the Cy- 
clops. The other apartments of the 
palace contain pictures by TerBurg, 
Zeegers, Hondhorst, &c. In the 
dining room are two excellent imita- 
tions of basso-relievo. 

The Hague was the birthplace 
of William III. king of England ; 
Huygens, the mathematician ; aud 
Ruysch, the anatomist. It contains 
65,000 inhabitants. 

The Post Office is open from 
seven in the morning till eight in the 
evening. 

A Eailway is now open from the 
Hague to Amsterdam, Utrecht, and 
Arnheim., four and five times a day. 
Price of Places. 

Amsterdam. Utrecht. 

Diligence . . f. 3. 65.-5. 45. 

Char a bancs . 2. 45. — 3. 85. 

Waggons . . . 1, 45.-2. 35. 

Boats leave every hour for Delft ; 



HOLLAND. BOUTE 2. SCHEVELING. 



11 



every two hours for Leyden ; once 
a day for Amsterdam and Rotter- 
dam ; and twice a week for Am- 
heim and Zwoll. 

SCHEVELING 

Is three miles distant from theHague. 
An avenue perfectly straight, 
thickly planted with oaks and 
limes, leads to it. The houses are 
chiefly inhabited by fishermen, yet 
presenting an appearance of neat- 
ness nowhere to be seen except in 
Holland. The beach is firm, and 
constantly crowded by pedestrians. | 
The church is situated at the ex- i 
teemity of the village, and contains ; 
the skuU of a whale fifty-six feet | 
in length, which was thrown on 
shore m 1617. Scheveling is re- 
markable as the spot near which 
his Majesty William I, after an 
absence of twenty years, landed on 
his native soil, November 30, 1813. 
The sand-hills hinder the sight of 
the sea mitU the traveller is almost 
upon it, but he is then amply re- 
paid by the suddenness and bold- 
ness of the scene which opens upon 
his view. 

At Scheveling there is very good 
sea-bathing and commodious baths, 
and a spacious hotel ; during the 
summer this place is much jQ:e- 
quented by Dutch and German 
families ofthe first distinction. Con- 
veyances may be hired for about 
three florins, to go and return with 
a party. There are also vehicles 
capable of holding ten persons, 
trhichtake passengers to Scheveling 
for fourpence each. They are to 
be met with at the gate of the town 
heading to this village. 

Ten miles from the Hague is 

LEYDEN, 

A fine town, four miles and a half 
in circumference, and situated on 
that branch of the Rhine which 
^sixme carries with it its name to the 



sea, and which surrounds the town, 
supplying its niunerous canals with 
water. Population 35,000. 

Leyden made a glorious stand in 
opposing the Spaniards in 1574, on 
which occasion six thousand of its 
inhabitants are said to have pe- 
rished by famine, disease, and the 
sword. The devotion of the citizens 
on the above occasion procured 
from Priace William of Holland, 
who relieved the place, the highest 
praise, and, what was of more im- 
portance, funds for the establish- 
ment of a university, which is de- 
servedly esteemed among the best 
disciplined and the best regulated 
schools for the classics, law, medi- 
cine, and divinity, on the whole 
continent. 

The University of Leyden contains 
about six hundred students. At- 
tached to the university is a Mu- 
seum of Natural History and Com- 
parative Anatomy, beautifully and 
scientifically arranged, and a Library 
of fifty thousand volumes. To the 
museum has recently been added 
the splendid collection of birds be- 
longing to Mr Temmink of Amster- 
dam, the produce chiefly of Java 
and the other oriental possessions 
of the Dutch. 

The Botanical Garden is kept in 
the highest p^sible order. The 
walks are beaiJfeil, and without a 
pebble, covering an extent of seven 
acres, four of which have been 
added only a few years ago, laid 
out in good taste as a garden for 
the reception of medicinal plants, 
and for the use of the medical stu- 
dents. Among the hot-house plants 
there is a date palm with fruit 
upon it, which the gardener said 
had been there two hundred years. 

Near the university is a large 
open space, now planted with trees, 
which was once covered with 
houses, which were destroyed in 
1807 by the explosion of a vessel 
laden with gunpowder, when more 
than one hundred and fifty persons, 



12 



KOUTE 2. — ^LEYDEN. PART I. 



and, among others, the two pro- 
fessors, Luzac and lUuit, perished 
under their ruins. 

Nothing can exceed the cleanli- 
ness of Leyden in all its streets, 
whether those with or those with- 
out canals. The former, with their 
quays, are particularly neat ; the 
bridges are mostly of stone, of 
which there are not fewer than 
one himdred and forty-five. 

The Giurch of St Peter is the 
largest in the town. The orna- 
mental sculptures that formerly 
belonged to it have been replaced 
hy a few monuments, several of 
which are by distinguished profes- 
sors of the university, but none 
that are calculated to attract much 
attention. The choir is screened 
03"^ by a raOing of bronze, but 
stripped of its former decorations. 

The Environs of Leyden are ex- 
tremely beautiful, the whole coim- 
try around being studded with vil- 
las, gardens, and pleasure-houses. 
The most frequented and most de- 
lightful promenade is without the 
walls, and close by the side of that 
branch of the Ehine which waters 
and surrounds the town. 

Passage-boats go every two hours 
to Haarlem and Amsterdam ; the 
distance is ten miles. 

HAARLEM. 

Inns, Lion d'or, Zyle-Straat. 
Haarlem, containmg a population of 
25,000, has little to boast of, with 
the exception of its celebrated or- 
gan, said to be one of the largest in 
Europe, consisting of eight thou- 
sand pipes and sixty-eight stops ; 
the largest pipe is thirty-two feet m 
length and sixteen inches in dia- 
meter. To hear it played twelve 
florins must be given to the organ- 
ist, and two to the beUows-blower. 

Not far from the church of St 
Bavon, and in the Great Market 
place, is the house in which lived 
Lawrence Coster, the inventor of 



printing. The first books which 
he printed are preserved in the 
Town-house ; they consist of two 
thin quartos in black letter, on 
stout coarse paper. One of them 
contains a portion of the Revela- 
tions, and is interspersed with 
hieroglyphics. 

In front of Coster's house standi 
his statue. He is represented in 
a consular robe, and his head 
crowned with laurel. In his left 
hand is a piece of wood on which 
is the alphabet, and in his right is 
a book. The statue, which is said 
to be a good likeness, is nine feet 
high, and the pedestal is six feet 
high. Several inscriptions record 
the origin and removal of the sta- 
tue ; and there are some Latin 
verses by Van Zanten, the physi- 
cian. On the east side Coster is 
represented walking in a wood and 
engraving characters on the bark 
of trees, and on the west side work- 
ing in a printing-of&ce. 

Haarlem is much celebrated for 
the beautiful flowers which it pro- 
duces. The tulips of this city are 
known in every part of Europe ; 
fifty, or even a hundred florins, is 
no uncommon price for a single 
bulb of some rare variety. In for- 
mer times one root was sold for 
more than ten thousand florins, and 
the aggregate sum produced by the 
sale of a hundred and twenty tulips 
was ninety thousand florins, or 
£6,750. 

An exhibition of plants is made 
here early in June. 

The Wood and ancient ramparts 
around Haarlem afford pleasing 
walks ; the former contains a su- 
perb pjmhon built by Mr Hope, of 
Amjsterdam, and afterwards the re- 
sidence of Louis Buonaparte, now 
converted into a picture gaUery. 

Boats leave every hour for Am- 
sterdam, and the Railroad (Iszeren 
spoorweg) 4 times a day in half an 
hour. 

Between Haarlem and Amster- 



HOiLAND. BOUTE 2. — IIAARLE3I 5IEER. 



13 



dam the face of the country be- 
comes wholly changed : nothing 
meets the eye but one continued 
meadow, intersected by ditches to 
drain off the water, without a tree, 
or scarcely a bush in any direction, 
and terminated, after a few miles' 
travelling, by the Haarlem Meer 
on the south, and the Lake or great 
water Ai on the north ; for five 
miles the road is laid out in a ma- 
thematical straight line, and is bor- 
dered by a noble canal parallel to 
it. The other side of the road is 
bordered by a ditch and a row of 
^\dllows. 

At the end of the first five miles, 
the waters of the Haarlem Meer 
and the Ai conummicate beneath a 
narrow artificial isthmus. At this 
spot the relative heights of the two 
waters of the Ai and the Meer are 
nicely regulated, by means of sluices 
and gauge posts, marked into very 
nice and minute divisions ; and the 
greatest attention is paid to the 
state of the waters at this particu- 
lar spot, the safety of Amsterdam 
and the adjacent country from in- 
undations depending much on the 
management of these two inland 
seas. 

Having crossed the narrow neck, 
the canal and the road recommence 
with an angle, inclining more to an 
easterly direction, and continue for 
another five miles, close up to the 
gate of Amsterdam. The canal is 
supplied by the Ai, through seve- 
ral inlets. In fact it forms in many 
places a part of the Ai, and is only 
separated from it, and the naviga- 
tion protected, by rows of strong 
posts, called a boom, which, by 
breaking the waves, preserve the 
opposite bank of the canal or the 
causeway, which would otherwise 
be constantly exposed to the dan- 
ger of being washed away. 

AMSTERDAM. 

Hotels. Pays-Bas. Situated near 
the Theatres, Exchange, and other 



public buildings, contains a great 
number of apartments newly fur- 
nished and fitted up with great 
comfort, an excellent table d'hote 
at \ past 4 ; price 2 fiorins, includ- 
ing ^ bottle of wine. Breakfast 
70 cents. Apartments from 1 to 3 
florins ; this is an excellent house. 

Vieux Doelen. Doelen Straat. 
This is a comfortable and good 
house, situated in the centre of 
Amsterdam ; the charges are, bed- 
rooms from 1 to 3 florins, breakfast 
70 cents, dinner at table d'hote in- 
cluding |- bottle of Bordeaux wine 
2 florins. The proprietor (Mr 
Brack) has carriages for hire by 
the hour or by the day ; coach- 
house and stabling on the premises. 

Amsterdam is of a semicircular 
form, nine miles in circumference, 
surrounded by a fosse eighty feet 
wide. Its walls have been pulled 
down, but it has twenty-six bas- 
tions converted into corn nulls : it 
is entered by eight gates. It con- 
tains 26,400 houses, and 202,000 in- 
habitants, about 17,000 of whom 
are Jews. 

It cannot boast of high antiquity, 
as in 1272 it was a deep and pesti- 
lential morass at the mouth of the 
Amstel, covered with a few fisher- 
men's huts. The ingenuity and 
perseverance of the Dutch alone 
could have raised it to its present 
splendour. The whole town stands 
on enormous piles driven into the 
mud. Under the Stadt-house alone 
are 18,695. 

As soon as the Amstel enters the 
city it is divided into two streams, 
from each of which innumerable 
canals branch off, communicating 
with each other, and with the Y, 
and intersecting almost every street. 
The canals form ninety little is- 
lands, which are connected together 
by three hundred bridges. 

The Royal Palace, formerly the 
Town-haU or Stadt-house, built by 
James Van Campen about the 
middle of the seventeenth century. 



14 



BOTJTE 2. — AMSTERDAM, PART I, 



is one of the noblest structures 
in Europe. It is situated in the 
centre of the Dam, and presents a 
square of nearly two hundred and 
eighty-two feet long and two hun- 
dred and twenty-two feet deep. 
Its height is a hundred and sixteen 
feet, exclusive of the tower, which 
is sixty-seven feet ; each front has 
a projection two hundred feet in 
length and seventeen in breadth, 
and at the four angles of the build- 
ing are pavilions forty feet long and 
four broad, surmounted by eagles 
of gilt bronze and imperial crowns, 
presented to the city by the Em- 
peror Maximihan. 

The principal hall in the palace 
is a hundred and fifty-two feet in 
length, sixty in breadth, and a 
himdred in height ; it contains two 
statues of Peace and Atlas, round 
■which are hung the standards and 
other trophies taken by the Dutch, 
and at the corners of the room are 
statues of Justice, Truth, Prudence, 
and Vigilance. The grand saloon, 
formerly the burgomaster's apart- 
ment, and the grand cabinet, are 
remarkable for their paintings 
and beautiful sculptured chimney- 
pieces. The hall of the throne is a 
magnificent room, on the ceiling of 
which are painted the arms of the 
different departments of HoUand. 

Most of the ornaments through- 
out the palace are peculiarly ap- 
propriate. Over the door of what 
was the secretary's apartment is 
the representation of a dog nearly 
famished, watching the body of his 
murdered master ; and by his side 
is the figure of Silence with her 
finger on her lips. Over the hall 
fonnerly devoted to commissions of 
bankruptcy is a group representing 
Daedalus and Icarus, alluding to 
the speculations which are the ruin 
of thousands. 

On the ground-floor are the 
strong apartments which formerly 
inclosed the vast treasures of the 
bftnk. Before the war it was sup- 



posed to contain a greater quantity 
of bullion than any other bank in 
the world. The pile of precious 
metals was once valued at forty 
millions sterling. The present bank, 
which was established March 25th, 
1814, is situated on the quay called 
the Oude Turf-market. 

The palace is open every day to 
strangers, who have to write down 
their names on entering, and pay 
the attendants. 

The Hoyal Museum, belonging to 
the Institute, formerly in the royal 
palace, is now placed in the house 
called the Trippenhuis, at the quay 
Kloeveniersburgwal. It consists of 
a collection of pictures, antiquities, 
and curiosities, which was first 
formed in 1798, but has been gra- 
dually increasing to the present 
time, and is distributed in six 
rooms, two of which are very large. 
It is a remarkable fact, that this is 
almost the only fine collection of 
pictures in Europe which was not 
removed to the Louvre during the 
reign of Napoleon. 

Amongst the curiosities depo- 
sited here is a wooden ball, into 
which each of the confederate no- 
bles drove a nail, as a token of 
fidelity to the league formed against 
the Duke of Alva ; two canes used 
by Admirals Ruyter and Tromp ; 
the chair occupied by Barneveldt 
when in prison, &c. One of the 
apartmenls of the museum is occu- 
pied by a collection of medals, con- 
sisting of about one thousand one 
hundred in gold, one thousand five 
hundred in silver, and two thou- 
sand in bronze. 

The musemn is open to the pub- 
lic every Thursday and Friday, 
from twelve till three. It is also 
open to foreigners every day, frran 
ten to two. A catalogue may toe 
procured at the door. 

The present Hotel de ViUe, or 
Town-haU, was formerly called the 
Prinsenhqf, and is situated at the 
Fluweelen Burgwal. Tlie munici- 



5IOLLAND, ROUTE 2. — AMSTERBAM. 



polity of Amsterdam occupied it 
when Louis, the brother of Napoleon, 
:9xed his residence at the palace. 

The Post-office is in the Voor- 
hurgwal, behind the palace. It oc- 
cupies three sides of a court ; the 
office for the interior faces the en- 
trance : that for Germany, the Bal- 
tic, Italy, &c., is on the right ; and 
that for France, Spain, &c., is on 
the left. The front is adorned with 
the royal arms. Letters are daily 
sent to, and received from, most of 
the provinces. 

The Barrack of St Charles, near 
the gate of Muiden, is an immense 
building, erected in 1800, and ca- 
pable of accommodating about two 
thousand seven hundred men. It 
is perfectly isolated, and is about 
nine hundred feet long and one 
hundred and forty broad. The 
front is adorned with sculpture, re- 
presenting the attributes of war. 

The foundation of the Old Ex- 
change, which formerly stood on 
axches across the Amstel, having 
given way, the entire building, 
which was erected in 1613, has 
been completely demolished, the 
space filled up, and formed mto a 
" place," in the centre of which a 
statue of Rembrandt the painter is 
to be erected. A splendid building 
is now (June, 1844) being built for 
the New Exchange, near the palace. 
The merchants attend about three 
o'clock. 

The Church, adjoining the palace, 
contains two interesting monu- 
ments, one to the memory of Ad- 
miral de Ruiter, the other to the me- 
mory of Van Speyk, who blew up 
his vessel, containing himself and 
crew, sooner than yield to his cap- 
tors the Belgians. This church 
also contains a handsome new or- 
gan, and a splendidly-carved pulpit. 

Amsterdam is well supplied with 
Ssh ; a pair of large soles may be 
had commonly for six stivers — 
about sixpence English. 

The Corn Exchange at the Dam- 



\ 



—I '■ 



rak is a handsome edifice, open for 
business on Mondays, Wednesdays, 
and Fridays. 

The East India Warehouses, notr 
occupied as granaries, are situated 
near the dockyard. 

They present a curious appear- 
ance, about one-half of the build- 
ing having sunk into the earth in 
1822, in conse(][uence of the piles 
on which it was erected suddenly 
giving way. 

Dockyard. Separated from the Y 
by the eastern dam, there are always 
several vessels on the stocks. To 
visit it admission is readily granted. 

In Amsterdam there are ten 
reformed Dutch churches, one 
French reformed church, one Eng- 
lish Presbyterian, twenty-two Ca- 
tholic churches, one Wallon church, 
three Lutheran churches, one Rus- 
sian church, and seven synagogues. 

Charitable Institutions. In Am- 
sterdam there are numerous insti- 
tutions for the alleviation of human 
misery and distress, in all their 
various shapes. The several hos- 
pitals, generally kept distuict for 
the reception of the aged, the in- 
firm, and the desolate ; the blind, 
the lame, the widows, and orphans ; 
for foundlings, and for those de- 
prived of reason : of which, taken 
together, there appears to be not 
fewer than forty, most of them 
large and convenient buildings ; 
besides the various prisons, and 
houses of correction and of industry. 

The Naval School enjoys consi- 
derable funds, by means of which 
the children of common sailors, 
properly recommended, are gratui- 
tously educated ; while the sons of 
naval officers of every rank are ad- 
mitted on the payment of twelve 
florins per month. AH are fed and 
clothed and instructed alike, and 
from this school has issued almost 
every officer that has done honour 
to the Dutch flag. In the yard is 
a vessel completely rigged, <m 
which the boys are exercised. 



IJ 



KOUTE 2. — AMSTERDAM. TAUT I. 



The Ttoyal Institute of Sciences, 
Letters, and the Fine Arts, holds 
the first rank amongst the scien- 
tific societies of Amsterdam. 

The Athenceum, in the ci-devant 
conyent of St Agnes, at the Fhi- 
weelenburgwal, contains a good 
public library, and an apartment 
ornamented with portraits of cele- 
brated men. 

The Anatomical Theatre, in the 
New Market, is furnished with a 
museum, containing anatomical 
preparations. Here also are pre- 
served the skeletons of felons sent 
for dissection. They are dressed 
up in the clothes they wore when 
living, and are labelled with an ac- 
count of their crimes. 

The Lees Museum, on the Eokin, 
is an excellent literary institution. 
It contains most of the native and 
foreign journals, and the newest and 
best publications in every living 
language. It is composed of three 
hundred members ; and a stranger, 
iatroduced by a member, may fre- 
quent the rooms as long as he 
pleases, without expense. 

botanical Gardens, — These Gar- 
dens belong to a club composed of 
the principal inhabitants of Am- 
sterdam — ^the space it occupies is 
not very extensive, but the exqui- 
site taste displayed in the arrange- 
ment and laying-out renders it one of 
the prettiest spots in Holland. At- 
tached to the estabhshment is an 
extensive menagerie, with well-ar- 
ranged dens, containing a choice 
and rare collection of wild animals, 
from all parts of the world. There 
is also a well-selected cabinet of na- 
tural history. On fine evenings the 
gardens are crowded by the members 
of the society, and are frequently 
accompanied by their families, who 
resort here for social enjoyment. 
Tea, coffee, wine, and other refresh- 
ments are supplied, at fixed prices. 
Strangers are not admitted unless 
introduced by a member. 

Cafes, The best and most fre- 



quented is Allebrandi's, close to the 
Exchange, where English, Erench, 
American, German, and Italian, 
newspapers may be read. The 
Cafe Franyais is also very good. 

The Dutch Theatre is situated in 
the Leidscheplein. It is a small 
neatly fitted up house, open on Mon- 
days, Wednesdays, and Saturdays. 

The French Theatre, on the quai 
Erwtenmarkt. The interior is ele- 
gant, but it is not so large as the other- 
theatre. It is open on Tuesdays, 
Thursdays, and Saturdays. Places 
may be secured by giving two sous 
to the box-keeper. 

The German Theatre is open on 
Mondays, Wednesdays, and Satur- 
days. 

The Amsterdam theatres do not 
admit persons at half-price, but a 
crowd of boys surround the ave- 
nues, who purchase the re-admis- 
sion tickets, and sell them again. 

The Rondeel consists of one large 
room well lighted, and a diminutive 
square court planted with trees, 
from the branches of which lamp®^ 
are suspended. The principal 
amusement of the place is dancing ; 
the price of admission is one shil- 
ling ; it is most crowded on Sun- 
day evenings. 

In most of the Dutch cities it is 
usual in the evening, and especially 
after the play, which closes about 
eleven o'clock, for the idle and disso- 
lute to go to the Musico Spiel- 
house, or licensed brothel. The un- 
fortunate girls are seated on both 
sides, or parading and dancing in 
the middle of a long room, at the 
entrance of which is a bar for the 
sale of refreshments, and at the 
bottom are some musicians in a 
gallery. Eott^rdam as well as Am- 
sterdam contains a great many such 
places. 

The annual Kirmes or Dutch 
Carnival takes place in the early 
part of September. 

Railroad Trains four times a day, 
to the Hague, Leyden, Utrecht, and 



HOLLAND. KOUTE 3. — SAAEDA3I. 



17 



Amheim ; trekschuits several times 
a day in every direction. 

N.B. Second-class carriages very 
good- 

Steamers to Bremen and Ham- 
burg on the 5th, 10th, 15th, 20th, 
25th, and 30th of every month, 
from April to November — fare in 
the chief cabin, £4 4s. ; carriage, £6. 

Steam Boats to Saardam seve- 
ral times a day during the summer ; 
fare 13 stivers. 

Before the traveller leaves this 
part of the coimtry, a "vasit to Saar- 
dam and Broek is particularly re- 
commended. 

EOUTE 3. 

SAARDASI AND BROEK. 

{Inn, The Otter.') 

Saardam has a population of 
9,000. The houses are principally 
bunt of TTOod, and are painted with 
various colours. Here were for- 
merly vast magazines of timber, 
but no ships are now built at Saar- 
dam, the harbour having been long 
choked up with mud. The shed in 
which Peter the Great worked as a 
common shipwright is stUl shown. 

In 1696 that singular personage 
presented himself at Saardam in 
the dress of a sailor, and hired him- 
self as a shipwright to one of the 
builders. |He ate, drank, and work- 
ed with the other carpenters ; and 
by his jocularity, and a certain su- 
periority which he could not quite 
conceal, acquired the name of Mas- 
ter Peter. Several weeks elapsed ere 
it was suspected that Master Peter 
was anything more than a journey- 
man shipwright : but when it was 
at length discovered that the Czar 
of aU the Kussians was concealed 
under this mean appearance, his 
companions began to treat him with 
the respect due to his rank. Mas- 
ter Peter, however, insisted that aU 
their former familiarity should be 
resumed, and continued to asso- 
ciate with them, and to work like 



them, until he had become a good 
pUot, an excellent shipwright, and 
had thoroughly acquainted himself 
with the construction of every part 
of a ship of war. The reader well 
knows what use he afterwards made 
of the knowledge which he had thus 
acquired, during a residence of two 
years in Holland. 

The hut in which Peter resided 
is situate at the end of the -vTllage, 
by the side of a canal, and is covered 
by a brick building, erected in 
1823, by order of the Princess of 
Orange, the sister of the Emperor 
Alexander. The hut consists of two 
rooms on the ground floor, over 
which is a loft where Peter kept 
various specimens of sliip and boat 
building. The first room, on enter- 
ing, is that which he used as a 
sitting-room, and it still contains 
his oak table and three chairs, as 
well as a recess "with two folding- 
doors, which served him as a bed- 
stead. Over the chimney-piece is 
the following inscription in gilt 
letters : Petro Magno, Alexander. 
Which was placed here by the Em- 
peror Alexander, when he visited 
this spot in 1814 ; and near it is 
another inscription in Dutch, put 
up by the government of Holland. 

Opposite the door, on an oval 
tablet, is a third inscription, also 
put up by desire of the Emperor of 
Russia, in Dutch and Eussian,. 
which may be thus translated : 
" Nothing is too little for a great 
man." On the right of this room 
is a ladder ascending to the loft, 
and on the left is the entrance to 
the apartment which Peter occu- 
pied as a workshop at the close of 
his regular daily labour. The hut 
is now shown by a person appointed 
by the King of the Netherlands, and 
in the first room on the table, are 
kept albums for visitors to inscribe 
their names. 

The wealth of Saardam arises 
from its numerous tobacco, paper, 
corn, and sawing-mills. They are 



18 



BOUTE 3. — SAAEDAM. PART 1. 



iforked by the wind, and exceed 
400 in number, each of which is 
neatly, though often grotesquely, 
painted. Some of them will cut 
forty planks at once. 

If the traveller wishes to visit 
Saardam and Broek on the same day, 
he must take a boat at the Stad- 
sterberg, and cross the Y to the 
Toll-house, near which boats are 
generally in waitmg to convey pas- 
sengers to Bucksloot. Here carriages 
may be hired to go either to Saar- 
dam or Broek, but to whichever 
place the traveller goes first, he 
must return to Bucksloot, as there is 
no other road from one place to the 
other. If, however, he only wishes 
to go to Saardam, he may hire a 
boat at Amsterdam, for the whole 
of the distance, which wiU cost 
eight or nine florins. If the wind is 
fair, the voyage may be performed 
in about two hours. The passengers 
in the common boats, which go se- 
veral times a day, are not always 
the most select, nor the watermen 
very civil. The view of Amster- 
dam, when about half a mile from 
land, is extremely beautiful. It will 
ibe necessary for the traveller to 
agree positively with the boatman 
at what hour he will return from 
Saardam, and that he shall be taken 
back again to his very inn ; other- 
"wise the owner of the boat will not 
want pretexts for returning much 
too early for the traveller's pleasure, 
and for leaving him at a considera- 
ble distance from his hotel. They 
dress excellent fish at the Otter, but 
a previous agreement should be 
made for the price. 

The singular and beautiful vil- 
lage of Broek, or Brock, should not 
be forgotten. The streets are di- 
vided by little rivulets, paved with 
variegated bricks, pebbles, and 
shells, and kept in such exquisite 
order, that a dog or cat are seldom 
seen to trespass upon them. Car- 
riages are not permitted to enter 
the village, and it is said that a 



law formerly existed, which obliged 
passengers to take off their shoes 
in summer as soon as they entered 
it. The houses are generally painted 
green and white, and are most 
whimsical in their shape and ap- 
pearance. Each stands in the 
centre of a small garden, curiously 
laid out. The walks are bordered 
with shells, and bits of glass of 
different colours grotesquely, yet 
prettily arranged. The shutters of 
the front windows are generally 
closed, and the principal entrance 
is seldom opened but on the mar- 
riage or death of one of the family. 
The inhabitants scarcely ever ad- 
mit a stranger within their doore, 
and hold but little intercourse with, 
each other. The inn is at the en- 
trance of the village, and it is the 
only house the interior of which a 
stranger has the least chance of 



seemg. 



EOUTE 4. 



PROM AMSTERDAM TO NYMEGEN. 

Posts E. Miles- 
Utrecht 41—25 

Amerongen 3f — 20 

Nymegen ,■...'. 3f — 20 



12 — 65 



A Radroad is now open to Ut- 
recht, trains four times a day. The 
boats from Amsterdam pass through 
the villages of ' Ouwerkerk, Abcou, 
Baambrugge, Loenersloet, Loenem, 
Meumersluis (a small fortified 
town), Breuketen, Maarson, and 
ZuUen. 

Near to Utrecht the houses en- 
croach so much on the canal, that 
it is impossible for a horse to pass 
along the narrow paved footway ; 
he is, therefore, unyoked from the 
trekschuit, and his place is gene- 
rally supplied by what the traveller 
would deem a very unsuitable sub- 
stitute — an old woman. She, how- 
ever, tows the boat along with 
much cheerfulness, without any 
great apparent effort, and at a t<d- 
erable brisk rate. 



HOLLAND. ROUTE 4. — UTRECHT. 



19 



UTRECHT. 

Inns, Hotel Pays-Bas. Plea- 
santly situated, good, clean, and 
moderate. Table d'hote at 4 o'clock, 
1| florin. Breakfast 70 cents. 
J3eds 1 to 2 florins. 

Castle Van Antwerpen. JBelle-Vue. 

Utrecht is built on a rising ground 
on the banks of the Rhine, and is 
one of the most beautiful cities in 
Holland next to the Hague. It boasts 
of very great antiquity, and was 
known to the Romans by the name 
of Trajectum Ulpii, so called from 
Ulpius Trajan. It was one of the 
principal fords of the Rhine. 

The banks of the canals are steep 
and high, and the water is twenty 
feet below the street. The access 
to them for the servants of the 
adjoining houses is by a subter- 
ranean passage. The MaU is a 
pleasing walk, more than a mile in 
length, and bordered with several 
jows of noble trees, with a carriage- 
road on each side. The ruins of 
the cathedral afford a fine specimen 
of Gothic architecture. One aisle 
remains, scarcely injured by time. 
In this divine service is regularly 
performed. The tower is 464 feet 
high, and from its top several 
walled cities and towns may be 
seen. The view is said to be the 
most extensive in HoEand. 

Besides the Cathedral there are 
twenty-four churches belonging to 
the Calvinists, Catholics, Luther- 
ans, Anabaptists, Mennonites, and 
Moravians. Here also is a Jewish 
synagogue. 

Utrecht was once a rich and 
powerful see, the bishops of wliich 
were sovereign princes. Too often 
they laid the crosier aside, and as- 
suming the sword, waged bloody 
warfare with their rivals, the prince- 
bishops of Liege. 

The university of Utrecht was 
formerly highly celebrated, but the 
nxmoiber of students is now much 
iiuninished. There is as little ap- 



pearance of a university here as at 
Leyden. The students have no 
academical dress, and their halls, 
which are used only for lectures 
and examinations, are formed of 
the cloisters of the ancient cathedral. 
The famous peace of Utrecht in 
1713 was signed in one of the haUs 
of the university. 

The town-house is a noble struc- 
ture, and the botanic garden is well 
worthy of notice. The number of 
inhabitants is 44,000. The princi- 
pal manufactures are woollen cloths, 
bleaching, bricks, silk, and fire- 
arms. The environs are full of 
gardens and pleasant walks, which, 
added to the purity of the air, make 
Utrecht a very agreeable place of 
residence. 

Pope Adrian VI, the tutor of 
Charles V, was bom here. Gro- 
novius the critic, and Graevius his 
pupil, resided at Utrecht. 

There is in Utrecht a very large 
collection of wax figures and ana- 
tomical preparations well worthy 
inspection. 

Diligences every day to Arnheim, 
Amersfoort, Bois-le-Duc, Breda, De- 
venter, Gorcum, Leerdam, Nime- 
guen, Rhenen, Thiel, and Zutphen. 
Vessels sail three times a day for 
Amsterdam, Leyden, and Gouda, 
and twice a week for Bois-le-Guc, 
Dort, the Hague, Haarlem, Middle- 
bourg, Rotterdam, Schiedam, and 
Schoonhoven. Travellers should 
be careful to enter Utrecht before 
nine o'clock in the evening. The 
gates are then shut, but a silver 
key will always succeed in opening 
them again. 

A Railroad to Arnheim is ex- 
pected to open in this spring. 

The neighbourhood of Ziest is 
remarkable for a vast pyramid 
erected in thirty days by the French. 
troops under General Marmont, on 
the occasion of Napoleon being 
made Emperor, its height is 110 feet, 
and each side of its base 148 feet 
long ; it commands an extensive 



20 



ROUTE 4. — AENHEIM. PAKT I. 



view. The town of Ziest is also 
remarkable for its society of Heren- 
huthers, or Moravians ; the estab- 
lishment, which is distinguished for 
the order and cleanliness observed 
therein, deserves a visit. 

Rhemen, a small but ancient town 
mentioned by Tacitus, under the 
name of Grinnes, and containing 
1,600 inhabitants, ^t is surrounded 
by beautiful walks, and from the hill 
of Hememberg is a noble prospect. 
Inn, the King of Bohemia fKoning 
van BohemeJ. Diligences leave every 
day for Utrecht. 

The last town is Wageningen, 
about ten miles from Nymegen, on 
the right bank of the river. Its 
chief trade is in beer, cattle, and 
tobacco, and it has 3,000 inhabi- 
tants. The garden of Eoozendaal 
is one of the finest in the province. 

AENHEIM. 

Inns. The JB oar's Head and 
JBath Hotel, and G-eneral Coach- 
ofi&ce, situated in the centre of the 
town, is a very excellent house, 
civil host, and good accommoda- 
tion. The rooms are well fiirnislied 
and clean, good table d'hote at 2 
and 4 o'clock every day. The 
bath house is well supplied with 
Russian, medical, and common 
baths. Mr Jaeger, the proprietor, 
has had twice the honour to receive 
the King of Prussia in his house. 

Arnheim is beautifully situated 
at the foot of the hills of Veluwe, 
and contains 17,000 inhabitants. 
The entrances, called St Jan's 
Poort and Sabel's Poort, are very 
picturesque, and the ramparts form 
a delightful promenade. 

The church of St Eusebiiis con- 
tains numerous tombs of the Coimts 
of Guelderland, some of which are 
interesting from their antiquity and 
their pleasing execution. 

The neighbourhood abounds with 
gentlemen's seats, the principal is 
that of Baron van Heekerens, called 
Sonsbec/i, situated about a mile 



outside the town. The Park is se- 
veral miles in circumference, well 
stocked with deer, and in the im- 
mediate vicinity of the house; the 
gromids are laid out in beautiful 
walks, and ornamented with a bel- 
vedere commanding most exten- 
sive views, numerous fountains, 
waterfalls, &c. &c. 

This town gave birth to the cele- 
brated painter, David Beck. The 
following singular event is recorded! 
of him. He was taken violently 
ill, and in a few minutes apparently 
expired. As his valets watched his 
corpse during the night, lamenting 
the loss of so good a master, they 
sought consolation in the bottle ; 
and having succeeded in drowning 
their grief and their senses, one of 
them exclaimed: " Our poor master 
used to be fond of his glass when 
alive, suppose we give him a bumper 
now he is dead." No sooner said 
than done. The head of the corpse 
was raised, and some of the wine 
poured down the dead man's throat. 
Beck slowly opened his eyes ; but 
the intoxication of the servants 
was so complete that this did not 
surprise them. They persisted in 
compelling him to swallow the 
whole bumper according to the 
rules of good drinking : but ere 
they had accomplished it he burst 
from their hold, and was restored 
to perfect health. The unfortunate 
painter, however, escaped death 
in this horrible shape, to meet it 
in another more dreadful. He was 
soon afterwards poisoned at the 
instigation of Queen Christina, 
whose court he had determined 
to quit. 

ROUTE 5. 

PROM ROTTERDAM UP THE RHINE. 

The Rhine steam-boats generally 
leave very early in the morning, 
mostly about six o'clock, sometimes 
sooner, but seldom after seven. 
Give yourself no trouble about 



HOLLAND. ROUTE 5. — THE RHINE. 



21 



breakfast, but select books or any 
other source of amusement, and 
put them where they may easily be 
obtamed, for little indeed will pre- 
sent itself on either bank worthy 
notice between Kotterdam and 
Cologne. The boats reach Nyme- 
gen in about ten hours. Both 
Company's boats proceed to Em- 
merich, where they arrive in 16 
hours, Dusseldorf the second day ; 
sometimes they even reach Cologne 
the second night, or in time the 
third morning to proceed on to 
Mayence by the early boats, and 
by taking the Railway at Mann- 
heim reach Basle in four days from 
Kotterdam. 

Fares from Rotterdam to Cologne. 



State cabin 
First do. 
Second do. 



Or out 

and home. 

£18 1 14 6 

. ir 3 1 5 11 

. 11 6 11 6 



Charge for Carriages. 

KOTTERDAM TO 



Cologne, -without 
passengers . . 

Do. one passen- 
ger . 

Do. two do. 

Do. three or more 



4 Wheels. 2 Wheels. 

£3 6 8 1 13 4 

2 13 4 16 8 

2 10 

16 8 13 4 



Horses. 

Rotterdam to Cologne . . £1 16 8 
W^ith a carriage without pas- 
sengers 19 2 

With a carriage and passengers 10 

The pavilion, or state cabin, is 
Eometimes let to a private party. 
A company of five persons or un- 
der, for the exclusive use of the 
pavUlon, must pay six pavilion 
fares : for every person above five, 
a second cabin fare to be paid be- 
sides. At Cologne and Mayence 
only, the agents can positively let 
the whole pavilion ; at Coblentz 
and Bonn, it can only be let condi- 
itionaUy upon its not being pre- 
viously engaged at the two other 
places. 



Children not above ten years pay 
half-price. 

Refreshments of every kind may 
be obtained on board at the follow- 
ing prices: — 

Breakfast, tea or coffee, and 

bread and butter . . £0 10 
Breakfast, with one egg or meat 10 
Dinner at table d'hote , . 18 

Tea or coffee , . .006 

Cup of tea or coffee . . 2j 

Mem. — ^What they bring you in 
the first instance is to the amount 
of the sums above-mentioned, every 
thing you may caU for afterwards 
is extra. This applies to breakfast 
and tea only. 

THE RHINE. 

In describing this river I have 
adhered to my original plan of dis- 
regarding the geographical terms 
of right and left bank .- therefore, 
that which is described as being on 
the right, is, scientifically speaking, 
on the left. 

The Rhine has its source in 
Switzerland, in tlte country of the 
Grisons, from a glacier upon the 
sununit of moimt Badur, at the 
head of a valley called the Rhine- 
wald. Tliis vaUey is little visited 
even by the natives, and presents 
frightful deserts of ice and snow 
through which the stream descends, 
sometimes visible, and sometimes 
working its hidden track beneath 
the frozen mass. Hence it pervades 
or borders Switzerland for the 
space of 200 miles to the lake of 
Constance, where it bends west to 
Basle, and commences its long 
northern course. But it does not 
begin to assume the romantic gran- 
deur of which tourists have given 
such seducing accounts, until it 
arrives at Mentz, within 260 miles 
from the frontiers of the Nether- 
lands. From that town, as far as 
Coblentz, Bonn, and Cologne, its 
shores abound with beautiful and 
striking objects, and every wind- 



22 



• BOITTK 5. — THE KHINE. PART I. 



iag of the river presents some 
new prospect, rich, variegated, and 
grand. 

It enters the Netherlands a little 
beyond Cleres, where it divides, 
and that branch which contains 
the greater proportion of water and 
commerce, assumes the name of the 
Waal. It now loses nearly all its 
peculiar and interesting scenery. 
Before it arrives at Arnheim, it 
again divides ; and a part, called 
the Yssel, takes a northern direc- 
tion, by Zutphen, Deventer, and 
Zwoll, and falls into the Zuyder 
Zee. The Rhine thence proceeds 
east to Wyk, where it once more 
forms two streams. The larger 
taking the name of the Leek, con- 
tinues its progress to the E„ joins 
the Waal and the Meuse, and laves 
the walls of Rotterdam ; while the 
Rhine, dwindled into a compara- 
tively insignificant stream, pro- 
ceeds by Utrecht and Leyden to 
the sea. 

The Rhine below Cologne is not 
interesting to the traveller for any 
very beautiful and commanding 
scenery, but it is important as the 
source of that internal commerce 
•Vfhich has survived the desolations 
of war, and contributed to the ease 
and comfort that are so observable 
among the greater part of the Dutch 
people. 

The Meuse rises in France be- 
tween Void and Toul, and passing 
by Verdun, Sedan, and Mezieres, 
enters the Netherlands near Fmnay. 
It then waters Charlemont, Namur, 
Huy, Liege, Maestricht, and Rure- 
monde ; joins the Waal near Wor- 
cum, and proceeds to the sea, by 
Gorcum, Dortrecht, Rotterdam, 
Maasluis, and the Brill. 

It should be particularly noticed 
by travellers up the Rhine, via Rot- 
terdam, that the boats in corre- 
spondence with the General Steam 
Navigation Company, are far supe- 
rior in every way to those be- 
longing to the Netherland Steam- 



Navigation Company, 'tis true tbe 
former leave Rotterdam but four 
times a week ; but few persons who 
have ascended the Rhine, by the 
boats of both companies, would not 
wait one or even more days to pro- 
ceed by the former. — They are fast, 
very clean, beautifully fitted up 
with berths and private cabins for 
ladies. The living (which is ano- 
ther important consideration) is 
also very much better, and there- 
fore strongly recommended to those 
who wish to be comfortable. These 
boats proceed up the Leek river by 
Arnheim twice a week when there 
is sufficient water. 

Rotterdam to Nymegen hy water. 



From Rotterdam to Dort . 
,, Dort to Gorcum . 
,, Gorcum to Nymegen 



Miles . 
. 18 
. 16^ 

• 55i 



On an island formed by the 
Meuse, eighteen mUes south-east 
of Rotterdam, is 

DORT, OR DORDRECHT. 

(Inn, Belle - Vue.) This island was 
torn from the opposite shore in. 
1421, hy an irruption of the rivers, 
which broke down the dykes, and 
destroyed seventy -two villages and 
100,000 i)ersons. Dort is one of 
the most ancient cities in HoUand, 
and was formerly the capital of 
the province, and contains 20,000 
inhabitants. It is said to have 
been founded by Merovius. The 
famous Protestant synod was held 
here in 1618, which condemned the 
tenets of Arminius. 

The natural situation of Dort is 
so strong, that although frequently 
besieged, it has never been taken. 
The harbour is excellent. The prin- 
cipal trade is in corn, Rhenish wine, 
and wood. 

Vast floats or rafts of timber 
arrive here from various places on 
the Rhine. The sale of one raft 



HOLLAND. ROUTE 5. — NYMEGEN. 



frequently produces more than ! 
£30,000. ' 

The learned Vossius and the 
celebrated De Witt were natives of 
this town. 

Gorcum, at the junction of the 
langhe with the Waal, eighteen 
miles east of Dort. It has consi- 
derable trade in butter, cheese, corn, 
and fish, and contains 6,000 inha- 
bitants. The horses bred in this 
neighbourhood are much esteemed. 
From the top of the principal 
church no less than twenty-two 
walled towns may be seen, besides 
numerous Tillages. Erpenies, the 
celebrated orientalist, was bom at 
Gorcum. 

Opposite to Gorcum is Worcum, 
containing only 670 inhabitants. 
The neighbouring country was laid 
waste by an inundation in 1740. 

A little above Gorcum, the Waal 
separates into two branches, which 
inclose the island of Commel or 
CommdwaeTt, fifteen miles long, 
and varying from one to four miles 
in breadth. At the west end of the 
island is the castle of Lovestein. 
The patriotic chiefs were impri- 
soned in this castle by Prince 
Maurice, whence that party has 
since been called the Lovestein 
faction. Grotius, after three years' 
imprisonment here, was conveyed 
away by a stratagem of his wife, 
in a box used for carrying books. 

Bommel is the principal town of 
the island. It is nearly impregna- 
ble, and contains 3,000 inhabitants. 
The chief support of the place 
is agriculture. The neighbouring 
country is much exposed to inun- 
dations. 

Thiel is a pleasant town, with 
3,500 inliabitants, and is sur- 
rounded by a most beautiful and 
luxuriant country, which produces 
abundance of fruit. It was unsuc- 
cessfully besieged by the Emperor 
Charles V in the beginning of the 
sixteenth century. 



NYMEGEN. 

Hotels. The Place Royale, Stadt 
Frankfort, Rotterdam Wagert, and 
Pays-Bas. 

By the time the boat reaches 
Nymegen, the traveller for the 
first time up the Rhine will have 
become acquainted with the tink- 
ling of the bell which announces 
the arrival at, and departure from, 
each little village or fortified town. 
For some time before the boat 
touches the quay at Nymegen, the 
tinkling commences, which wiH 
announce the necessity of looking 
up what things may be required for 
the night. Get your passport at 
hand, for it will be demanded at 
the side of the vessel. 

Nymegen is an ancient town, 
containing 18,000 inhabitants, and 
a garrison strongly fortified on the 
laud side, and built on the side of 
a liill. The ramparts, which form 
a pretty promenade, surround the 
town ; the view from which, par- 
ticularly from the Prospect-house 
or Belvedere, built by the Duke of 
Alva, is very pretty, and much 
prized, as I believe it is the only 
view (except from a church steeple) 
to be met with in Holland. From 
this spot may be seen the rivers 
Meuse, the Waal, the Rhine, and 
the Yssel. Near the Belvedere is 
a neat plantation tastefully laid out 
in walks, shrubberies, &c., in which 
are placed seats, so arranged as to 
command varied and interesting 
prospects. The site was formerly 
occupied by the castle of Valkeyihojf, 
built in the time of Julius Csesar ; 
of which, however, nothing now 
remains but the ruins of a temple, 
composed of Roman bricks, in 
which are still preserved many 
relics of antiquity ; such as Roman 
pots carefully suspended by their 
respective necks. The head (a 
stone one) of Julius Caesar ; a brick 
stuck against the wall, made in the 
time of Charlemagne. The rib of 
a whale brought ashore in I6I85, 



24 



ROUTE O.— NYMEGEN. PART I. 



and the veritable anchor (rather 
rusty, of course) by which the act 
was accompHshed. 

The church contains a handsome 
monument to the memory of Cathe- 
rine de Bourbon. 

The toMTi-hall is rather an unas- 
suming looking place. 

It is an old Gothic building, and 
to the lovers of relics of antiquity 
will afford a rich treat. 

The celebrated treaty of peace in 
1678 was concluded here, and the 
portraits of the respective ambas- 
sadors are shown in the town-haU. 
The swords with which Counts Eg- 
mont and Hoorn were beheaded are 
likewise preserved here. 

A dihgence starts for Amster- 
dam twice every day ; Utrecht four 
times in the week ; for Cleves three 
times a week ; Cologne twice a 
week ; and Breda, Bois-le-Duc, and 
Venlo, twice a week. 

The Environs of Nymegen are 
pleasant, and the promenade to the 
Kalverbosch is much frequented. 
On the other bank of the Waal is 
the village of Lent, where may be 
seen the ruins of the Fort of Kood- 
zenbourg. 

At Nymegen there is a flying 
bridge: it is considered the best 
and most convenient where it can 
be adopted, which is only where 
the river has a considerable cur- 
rent. An anchor is fixed at a cer- 
tain distance up the stream, always 
greater than the breadth of the 
river, from which a cable of rope or 
chain passes to the platform of the 
ferry-boat, which is here supported 
on a couple of large barges. This 
cable is buoyed up by passing over 
such a number of boats as may be 
found necessary. If the rudder of 
the large platform be moved so as 
to turn the heads of the supporting 
barges about a point of the compass 
towards the stream, so as to let it 
act against the sides of their bows, 
they will, of course, sheer across, 
or oscillate like a pendulum, with a 



slow and uniform motion, to the 
opposite side, the cable and its sup- 
porting boats edging over m the 
direction of the platform. By hav- 
ing the height of the platform the 
same as those of the two piers or 
landing-places on the sides of the 
river, carriages of any size, carts 
or waggons, without unyokmg the 
horses, may drive upon it and pass 
over without disturbing passengers 
or baggage. 

Continuation of the Rhine from 
Nymegen, see Route 7. 

ROUTE 6. 

NYMEGEN TO COLOGNE BY CLEVES, 
GELDERS, &C. 





Posts. 


E. Miles. 


Mymegen to Cleves . 


3 


— 16* 


Cleves to Gelders . . 


. 4 


— 22 


Gelders to Creveld . 


3 


- 16^ 


Creveld to Neuss . 


. 2 


— 11 


NeuoS to Donnagen . 


2 


— 11 


Dormagen to Cologne . 


. 2 


— il 



16 — 88 

A short way beyond Nymegen 
the boundary between Holland and 
Prussia is passed; at Kranetigburg 
the oflScers examine the luggage of 
travellers. Passing through the 
park called Thiergarten, enter the 
ancient town of 

CLEVES. 

Hotels. H. de Stirum, Werner 
Arntz, proprietor. Is a clean and 
very comfortable house situated in 
a beautiful garden opposite the Park 
of Thiergarten, and the Baths of 
Mineral Waters, discovered in the 
year 1734; it is surrounded by a 
variety of beautiful walks and rides. 
The hotel contains numerous ele- 
gantly furnished suites of apart- 
ments, the beds are exceedingly 
good, and the dinners and other 
meals, iare liberaUy provided, well 
cooked, and served in a superior 
style. There is an excellent table 
d'hote at half-past two o'clock every 



PRUSSIA. EOUTE 7. — CREVELD. 



25 



day; price 1 florin; breakfast, 50 
cents; single bed, 1 florin. 

Cleves is capital of the Duchy of 
that name, an ancient possession of 
the house of Prussia. It contains 
15,000 inhabitants, and is built upon 
three gentle hills (whence its name 
from the Latin clivuvi) in the midst 
of a beautiful and fertile country, 
which, with its well wooded hills 
and rallies, cannot fail to charm the 
stranger. 

The chief objects of interest are : 
the Old Castle called the Schwanen- 
herg, formerly the ducal residence, 
and m which Anne of Cleves was 
born. The Tower ; Prinzenhof; the 
Catholic church, which contains 
the monimients of several dukes; 
the Cabinet of Curiosities of M. Leh- 
man; the Thiergarten ; a charming 
promenade, varied and beautiful, 
with mineral springs, and at a 
short distance from the town; and 
the Berg and Thai, where is the 
Iron Tomb of Prince Maurice of 
Nassau. 

There are also some interesting 
drives to the Roman remains in the 
neighbourhood. Cleves is aimually 
resorted to by an inmiense number 
of the best Dutch and German 
families, and were the English 
generally aware of its manifold 
beauties, they would not fail to visit 
it ; those that have done so have 
expressed themselves as being sur- 
prised and delighted with the sur- 
rounding scenery, which is really 
€nchanting, so much so that either 
going up or down the Rhine lovers 
of the picturesque should not neg- 
lect making a halt here. Cleves 
is three posts from Nymegen ; the 
hire of a carriage with two horses 
is about 7 florins. The best way is 
to proceed by the Dusseldorf Com- 
pany's boats to Emmerich, cross the 
Rhine by the flying bridge, take a 
carriage on the opposite bank to 
Cleves, which wdl cost 3 florins, 
and occupy but one hour. 



CKEVELD. 

AweU-bmlt handsome town, con- 
taining 17,000 inhabitants, a great 
portion of whom are employed in 
the manufacture of silk and vel- 
vet, which are considered equal to 
French, and often sold as such, par- 
ticularly in England, where great 
quantities are sent. 

Neiiss on the Rhine is described 
in Route 7, page 29. 

ROUTE 7. 

NTJIEGEN TO COLOG>TE BY THE 
RHINE. 

E. Miles. 
Nymegen to Wesel ....... iiO 

Wesel to Dusseldorf 44 

Dusseldorf to Cologne 31 J 

125i 

Leaving Nymegen. — ^When going 
on board in the morning the pass- 
port will be again demanded, in- 
spected, and if found to be properly 
indorsed, returned. The tinkling 
again commences — all aboard — and 
the boat instantly commences wind- 
ing its way towards Cologne. In 
two hours after leaving Nymegen 
the boat enters the Rhine. The arm 
called Old Rhine separates from the 
principal river, and proceeds to- 
wards the right, making an im- 
mense bend; whilst the other arm, 
wliich is much larger, continues its 
original direction, and takes the 
name of the Waal. Look towards 
the stern. 

The separation of the waters is 
well worthy of observation, and the 
hydraulic-works, to regulate their 
course, are of great importance, 
since the very existence of Holland 
depends on them. If these works 
had not been finished, the whole 
country would have been swallowed 
up by the waves in the inundation of 
1784. 

At LoUih the boat stops for a 
short time, the captain making a 
manifesto of merchandise ; Lobith 
being the boundary of Holland. 
c 



26- 



KOUTE 7; — Ejmmeki6k;. pakt i. 



EMMERICK. 

(Inn, Pays-Bas.j 

Here the Prussian Gustom-house 
ofl&cers search the pacjcet^ and the 
police examine and: sign the pass- 
ports. The officers generally con- 
duct themselves in the most polite 
manner; merely lifting the lids of 
the larger trunks appeared to sa- 
tisfy them. Fruit and pastry (such 
as it is) is brought to the side of 
the vessel here, and indeed at most 
of the towns and villages where the 
packet may have occasion to land 
or embark its passengers. The 
manner in which this affair is done 
is admirable : ,a few minutes is suf- 
ficient to unship half its freight. 

Before you reach Wesel, on the 
right, and at some distance from 
the river, is the neat little town of 
XanteM or Santen, which contams 
250 houses, and 3,000 inhabitants. 
The latter are principally employed 
in the cultivation of land, but they 
likewise manufacture ribbons, pins, 
and neck and pocket-handkerchiefs. 
In the environs are a great number 
of gardens. 

At Wesel the iijope falls into the 
Rhine ; there is also a bridge of 
boats here. This small river, which 
comes from Westphalia, and is navi- 
gable for a considerable distance 
from its mouth, brings to the Rhine 
a large quantity of wood and salt, 
and the boats which ascend are 
generally laden vrith wines. 

WESEL, 

Which is, perhaps j the ancient 
Aliso, is situated on the left of the 
Rhine, opposite an artificial island, 
formed in 1785, by making a cut 
through the bend above-mentioned. 
This island has taken the name of 
JBuderich, from the market-town of 
that name, which formerly stood 
near it, and the cut is called the 
panal of Biiderich. This probably 
may be the site of the Aliso of the 
ancients, which was situated lower 
than Asciburgum. Wesel was for- 
merly one of the imperial and Han- 



seatic towns. It was indebted for 
its flourishing condition to the re- 
fugees from Holland, Brabant, and 
France, who were afterwards driven 
from it. Its present importance 
arises from its fortifications, which 
render it an excellent situation in 
time of war. It has, however, se- 
veral manufactories of linen and 
woollen stuffs. Wesel contains 
about 1,500 houses and 13,000 in- 
habitants. It has a theatre, two 
private societies, and several other 
places of amusement, amongst which 
are the Issel and the Bromherhof. 
Near Wesel, the current rmis at 
the rate of seven miles an hour; 
Depth of the Rhine from eleven 
to fourteen Rhenish: fjsetij; breadth 
about 1,800 feet- v • . 

Opposite Wesel is Fort Bliicher, 
formerly Fort Napoleon. 

Near Ruhrori the JRuhr flows into 
the Rhine. The name of a sm,all 
river which rises in the mountains 
of the Sauerland, m Westphalia,and 
is rendered navigable for a distance 
of twelve or fourteen leagues jBcom 
its mouth, by means of sixteen 
locks. These locks were constructed 
by the Abbot of Werden, and some 
private gentlemen, between 1770 
and 17S0, previous to which time 
the Ruhr was not navigable. It 
runs from Witten as far as Muhl- 
heim, three leagues from Ruhrort, 
for the space of ten leagues, along 
the bottom of a very narrow valley. 
On the side of the chain of moun- 
tains that forms this vallfey are 
several other mountains, which, 
without communicating with the 
first, extend a considerable distance 
into the interior of the country. 
These mountains contain the pit- 
coal which is so much used in the 
Lower Rhine and Holland, and con- 
stitutes one of the principal articles 
in the commerce of the Rhine. 

At Rithrort are the docks, in 
which the greater part of the boats 
for Holland and the Rhine are con- 
structed. This small town is very 



PRUSSIA, ROUTE 7. — THE RHINE. 



27 



much exposed by its situation, and 
would long ago have perished by 
ice or inundations, if it had not been 
defended by means of very strong 
dykes. 

UERDINGEN, 

In the raidst of a fertile plain. 
It is supposed that this small town 
derived its name from the Roman 
general, Hordronius Flaccus, who 
occupied the Upper Rhine in the 
insurrection under Claudius Civilis. 
The traces of his camp are still 
visible. In 1330, Henry of Virne- 
burg, archbishop of Cologne, erected 
a wall round the town. Uerdingen 
contains 250 houses and 1,600 in- 
habitants, most of whom subsist by 
navigation, commerce, and the pro- 
duce of the cattle which they bring 
up. In their manners and customs 
they resemble the Dutch, with 
whom they have a constant inter- 
course. In 1602, the Rhine having 
quitted its ancient course near 
Rhineberg, and taken a new direc- 
tion, the custom house (formerly 
situated at Rhineberg, was removed 
to Uerdingen. 

GELB. 

A place of great historical interest. 
Tacitus and Florus mention it under 
the name of Gelduha, and Drusus 
established a bridge there.' It was 
the last town of the Ubians, on the 
banks of the Rhine. The town of 
Ziilpich (Tolbiacum), which is situ- 
ated some distance in the interior 
of the country, likewise belonged to 
them, and was the place where, in 
496, Clovis, King of the Franks, ob- 
tained a signal victory over the 
Germans. 

KAISERWORTH 

Was formerly very strong, and en- 
joyed the privileges of an imperial 
town, till the Emperor Charles IV. 
gave it as a pledge to the Duke of 
Cleves, and afterwards to the Elec- 
tor of Treves, from whom it passed, 
in 1768, to the Electors of the Pala- 
tinate, after the possession of it had 
been disputed for four centuries. 



In the seventh century, St. Schwi- 
bert founded a convent on the island 
of "VYerda. A monument, comme- 
morating the thousandth anniver- 
sary of his death, was erected by the 
Protestants in 1817, on the Diemel 
Hill. Near this spot the French 
army crossed the Rhine in 1795. 

DUSSELDORF. 

Inns. The Brietenbacher ^ an ex- 
cellent house, pleasantly situated in 
the Allee Strasse ; there is an ex- 
cellent table d'hote, good apart- 
ments, and moderate charges ; an 
omnibus attends the arrival of the 
steamers. 

Three Imperial Crowns-Royal^ 
Cologne^ 8j-c. 

Dicsseldorf is the capital of the 
Grand Duchy of Berg, the seat of 
the Parliament of the Rhenish pro- 
vinces, containing 25,000 inhabit- 
ants and about 2,000 military, it 
extends along the Rhine in a charm- 
ing plain, and is watered on the 
south by the Dussel, whence it 
derives its name. Below the castle 
its rivulet 'falls into the Rhine. 
Dusseldorf was a strongly fortified 
place till the peace of Luneville, in 
1801. The castle and some of the 
principal buildings were reduced to 
ashes by the last bombardment of 
the French. 

This town is one of the most 
beautiful on the Rhine; the streets 
are most of them regular. 

In the market-square is the mo- 
nument of the Elector John Wil- 
liam, an admirer of the fine arts, to 
whora Dusseldorf is indebted for its 
prosperity. The statue, which is of 
bronze, is larger than life. The 
elector is on horseback, clothed in 
a cuirass, and holding a general's 
baton iahis hand. The pedestal is 
a kind of grey marble, from a 
quarry in the environs. Thp statue 
was executed by Chevalier Crepello. 

Dusseldorf is divided into three 
different towns, called the Old 
Town, the New Town, and thu 



28 



iHOUTE 7. — THE RHINE. PART 1 



Carlstadt (Charles-Town). The 
new town is situated before the gate 
of Bergerthor, extending along the 
banks of the Rhine. It was built 
by the Elector John William. The 
Carlstadt joins the old town on the 
south side. It owes its origin to 
Elector Charles Theodore, from 
whom it takes its name. 

The castle of Dusseldorf was burnt 
during the bombardment, and only 
the rains of it are now visible. In 
the middle of the court of this castle 
is a second statue of the Elector 
John William, in white marble, 
which was likewise executed by 
Crepello. 

The great building, not far from 
the castle, formerly contained a 
superb gallery of pictures, in which 
were a great number of paintings 
by. Rubens, and other celebrated 
artists of the Dutch and Flemish 
schools. These curiosities were all 
conveyed to Munich, with the ex- 
ception of a very large picture, 
painted on wood, representing the 
ascension of the Virgin. There still 
exists a valuable collection of draw- 
ings and engravings, and figures 
cast from excellent models. 

English Church. — Divine worship 
is performed every Sunday morning 
at twelve o'clock in the Lutheran 
church. 

Many English families take up 
their residence here, in consequence 
of the moderate rent for houses 
and apartments, and the cheapness 
of provisions. 

Dusseldorf being a garrison town, 
an immense number of soldiers are 
constantly quartered there. The 
bands of the respective regiments 
alternately play in the gardens 
during t?ie summer twice a week, on 
Wednesdays and Thursdays from 5 
till 10. A grand parade, with music, 
of all the oflBcers in garrison takes 
place every Sunday morning at 11, 
opposite the Brietenbacker Hotel. 

The Theatre is open only in the 
winter. 



The Public Gardens offer most 
extensive and delightful walks, in- 
dependent of the promenades on 
the banks of the Rhine. Indeed, 
altogether, Dusseldorf is a cheap 
and pleasant residence for families 
desirous of educating their chil- 
dren. 

Excellent trout fishing in the Dus- 
sel river, where the writer has caught 
fish of three and four lbs. weight. 

Dusseldorf has several establish- 
ments for spinning silk and cotton, 
some manufactories of mirrors, 
pens, vinegar, soap, and a few 
sugar-refineries of considerable im- 
portance. In the hospital of the 
poor, stockings, carpets, and other 
woollen articles are manufactured. 

Dusseldorf carries on a consi- 
derable trade on the Rhine, and its 
port is one of the most frequented 
on this river. The merchandize 
brought from the manufactories of 
the country of Berg to Dusseldorf, 
and thence to the Rhine, consists 
principally of the following goods: 
from, the manufactories of Elber- 
feld, Barmen, and the district called 
Gemark, coarse cotton cloths, plain 
and coloured cottons, ribbons, fer- 
ret, &c. ; from Langenberg, Rem- 
scheid, Kroneberg, and Schlingen, 
various iron and steel articles. A 
great quantity of lime is brought 
from the environs of Ratingen. 

The navigation of the Rhine 
from Dusseldorf to Holland, and to 
the country of Cleves, is managed 
exclusively by nine boatmen, five 
of whom convey merchandise to 
Amsterdam, and the other four at- 
tend to the transport of merchan- 
dise going to Dort and returning 
to Dusseldorf. Dusseldorf is ninety- 
four miles from Nymegen, and 
thirty-one and a half from Cologne. 
Depth of the Rhine from twenty 
to fifty-one feet, breadth about 
1,200 feet. 

A Railroad is open from Dus- 
seldorf to Elberfeld, Duisburg and 
Coloorne. 



PRUSSIA. ROUTE 7 THE RHINE. 



29 



A New Steam Packet Company i 
has been established at Dusseldorf, . 
whose boats from Rotterdam reach 
this place the second evening. | 

On the right, about a quarter of i 
a league from the Ehine, is the | 
small town of j 

NEUSS. I 

Inn, Bhemischer Hof. j 

Neuss, called Novesium, or No- ! 
va Castra, by the Romans, and ; 
probably built by Drusus, who j 
made a bridge over the Rhine. Ta- ; 
citus mentions this place, which , 
was then situated (as well as in j 
1254) close to the bank of the 
Rhine, which is now half a league 
from it. The upper gate, by which 
the traveller enters the town from 
Cologne, is still called the Gate of 
Drusus. 

The town is situated between 
two small rivers, which bear the 
names of Erft and Krufe, so that it 
is in the middle of an island. Neuss 
contains 7,000 inhabitants. 

The change which took place in 
the course of the river has done 
much injury to the commerce of 
Neuss ; the river Erft, however, 
furnishes some communication be- 
tween the Rhine and the to-svn, and 
the inhabitants send on it to the 
county of Berg large quantities of 
wood, coals, mill-stones, and slates. 
They likewise trade in corn with 
Dusseldorf and Holland. The town 
possesses some breweries, brandy 
distilleries, and manufactories of 
vinegar, soap, cloth, flannel, cotton 
cloths, ribbons, and lace. 

About a league before you reach 
Cologne, and three quarters of a 
league from Deutz, on the left op- 
posite Riehl, is the small town of 
Muhlhehn, in the grand duchy of 
Berg. This town was almost entirely 
destroyed by the frosts in the ter- 
rible winter of 1784, but has been 



since rebuilt more pleasant than 
before. There is a flying bridge 
over the Rhme at this place. It 
contams about 3,000 inhabitants, 
and has some large breweries, 
brandy distilleries, and manufac- 
tories of silk and velvet. Large 
quantities of merchandise,consistmg 
partly of the productions of the 
grand duchy of Berg (particularly 
of iron) and partly of foreign goods, 
are exported from this place to a 
considerable distance by means of 
light boats. This town is much 
indebted for its increase to the 
Protestant manufacturers and mer- 
chants who came here from Co- 
logne, where they were deniedliberty 
of conscience. 

At this place formerly stood the 
capital of the Ubians, which was 
in a flourishing state when Cologne 
only bore the name of ^ Oppidum 
Ubiorum ; and here also, it is said, 
Cffisar threw a wooden bridge over 
the Rhine, in the year 3896 a.m. 
Near Miihlheim the Rhine receives 
the rivulet of Slrunderhach, which 
in the course of a few leagues puts 
in motion more than forty mills, 
employed in the manufacture of 
paper, oil, colours, and corn. 

From this spot nothing can be 
' conceived more striking and magni- 
I ficent than the appearance of the city 
of Cologne, at the distance of three 
or four miles, situated at the head 
of a noble expanse of water, bor- 
dered by a rich and beautiful country 
on both of its margins. The an- 
cient town of Deutz, with its old 
Benedictine Abbey, is immediately 
opposite to Cologne ; and farther 
inland, on the slope of the hills, is 
beautifully situated the once splen • 
did chateau of Bensberg, now 
stripped of all its magnificence, and 
converted into a hospital for the 
reception of lunatics. 

Coloime is described in Route 14. 



HAND-BOOK FOR CENTEAL lyUOPE, 



OR 



GUIDE-BOOK FOR TRAVELLERS. 



PART II. BELGIUM. 



A SHOET ACCOtJNT OF feELftlUM. 

Belgiutn, after Tbeing conquered 
Tby Julius Gsesar, 57 years before 
Jesus Christ, remained under the 
Uoman yoke until about the year 
420 of our era. The Franks, who 
left their name to the kingdom of 
France, invaded it at that period. 

Haying in the ninth century be- 
come a part of the empire of Char- 
lemain, it was, under his successors, 
divided into small sovereignties, 
•which bore the titles of duchies, 
marquisates, counties, and lord- 
ships ; it was then that the prin- 
cipality of Liege, the marquisate 
of Antwerp, the duchies of Bra- 
bant, Liraburg, and Luxemburg, 
the counties of Flanders, Namur, 
and Hainault, and the lordship of 
Mechlin, were formed, which were 
successively united to the duchy of 
Burgundy ; and passed, in 1477, 
under the dominion of the house of 
Austria, by the marriage of Mary, 
the daughter of Charles the Bold, 
the last duke of Burgundy, with 
Maximilian, the son of Frederick 
III, the emperor of Germany. 
When Charles the Fifth (the 
grandson of Maximilian), king of 
Spain and emperor of Germany, 
inherited those different provinces, 
they became subject to Spain. 
They were given, in 1714, to Isa- 
bella, the daughter of Philip III, 
at the time of her marriage with 
the archduke Albert, and took 



the name of Austrian Netherlands, 
which they retained until 1795, * 
period at which they were reunited 
to France with the country of 
Liege, governed by a bishop prince, 
and which had always formed part 
of the Holy empire. France di- 
vided Belgium into nine depart- 
ments, and retained possession of 
it until 1814. The treaty of Lon- 
don of July 28 in the same year, 
and the decisions of the congress 
of Vienna of 1815, united Bel- 
gium to Holland to form the king- 
dom of the Netherlands under the 
government of William of Orange 
Nassau. The revolution of Sep- 
tember, 1830, having violently se- 
parated Holland from Belgium, a 
national congress, June 4, 1831^ 
proclaimed Leopold of Saxe Co- 
burg king of the Belgians, upon 
the refusal of the Duke of Nemours, 
the son of the King of the French.* 

The treaty of London of Nov. 
15, 1831, not ratified before 1839,' 
by Holland and Belgium, by securl 
ing to the latter a certain rank 
among the powers of Europe, has 
settled the limits of the two states, 
which, before 1830, formed the 
kingdom of the Netherlands. 

At present Belgium is bounded 



* The Dational colours are now red 
yellow, and black. The Belgian flag bears 
these three colours placed vertically. The 
national arms are the Belgian Lion, witk 
the motto : ' Union is strength.' 



SHORT ACCOUNT OF BELGIUM. 



31 



on the N. by Holland, E. by Dutch 
Limburg, Rhenane Prussia, and 
Dutch Luxemburg ; S. and W. by 
France. Its greatest extent from 
N.W. to S.E. is 50 leagues, and 35 
leagues from N. to S. 

It is divided into nine provinces, 
]. Antwerp: 2. East Flanders; 
3, West Flanders ; 4; Hainault ; 
5. Brabant ; 6. Limburg ; 7. Liege ; 
8. Nam ax; 9. Luxemburg; which 
are themselves subdivided into ju- 
dicial and administrative districts ; 
the population of the kingdom, 
which, before the ratification of the 
treaties, consisted of 4,232,600 in- 
habitants, is reduced to 3,990,839, 
by the reduction of part of Lim- 
burg, and Luxemburg. Almost all 
the population profess the Roman 
Catholic Religion. The present su- 
perficial contents of the territory are 
about 2,943,570 hectares. It con- 
tains 97 towns, several of which are 
very considerable, and 2,478 rural 
districts.* 

Belgium is a level country in the 
northern provinces, but the soil is 
uneven and mountainous in the pro- 
vinces of the east and south. The 
land is everywhere fertile and well 
cultivated, but agriculture is carried 
to the highest perfection in E. and 
W. Flanders, Brabant, and the pro- 
vince of Antwerp. 

The kingdom is watered by two 
large streams, the Scheldt and the 
Maese, and by many second-rate 
rivers ; the principal are the Sonne, 
the Dyle, the Lys, the Ourte, the 
Dendre, the Vesdre, the Demer, 



* Belgium is considerably populated 
in comparison to other countries ; it con- 
tains about 127 habitans per 100 hectares. 

East Flanders has a greater population 
than any other country in Europe, with 
an equal surface. (255 habitans per 100 
hectares.) 

The execution of the treaty of the 24 
articles has caused Belgium to lose in 
extent of territory about 477,000 hec- 
tares ; in population 242,901 inhabitans ; 
and 162 districts. 



&c. ; several of the provinces are 
intersected in every direction by 
numerous canals. Belgium has two 
ports, Ostend on the jSorth Sea and 
Antwerp on the Scheldt. Its for- 
tified to;vns are: MonSy Tourr<ai/, 
Athy Menin^ Ostend, Antwerp, Den- 
dermond, and Namur. 

Belgium produces wheat, spelt, 
rye, barley, oats, potatoes, forage, 
flax, hemp, hops, beetroot, tobacco, 
colza, madder, fruit-trees, and tim- 
ber. Some parts of the Southern 
provinces produce light but plea- 
sant wines. The cultivation of the 
mulberry-tree and the breeding of 
silk-worms, introduced in 1826, is 
daily gaining ground. 

The coal-mines of the provinces 
of Liege and Hainault are a source 
of great wealth. These provinces, 
as well as those of Namur and Lux- 
emburg, possess mines of iron and 
other metals ; they also contain 
marble and stone quarries. 

The Belgian commerce has within 
a few years increased to a great ex- 
tent ; there are iron, steel, tin, 
copper, and zinc foundries ; manu- 
factures of arms, steam-engines, 
ironmongery, cutlery, jewellery, and 
carriages ; cloth, woollen, cotton, 
linen, velvet, carpet, lace, and net 
factories. 

There is a large number of dis- 
tilleries and breweries ; the latter 
are particularly numerous. 

The air of Belgium is wholesome 
and pure ; the climate temperate, 
but subject to frequent variations. 

According to an historian, " the 
Belgian, who is naturally generous, 
meets misfortune with fortitude, and 
despises death ; if attempts be 
made to level him with the vile 
condition of a slave, he is prompt 
in resenting it, he rises and avenges 
himself ; but if he be governed ac- 
cording to the laws of his country, 
with gentleness and moderation, as 
becomes the dignity of man, there 
is no subject more faithful to his 
sovereign,'^ Let us add, that the 



32 



ROUTE 8.— LONDON. PART 11. 



manners of the Belgians are plain ; 
they are honest in their dealings ; 
they are persevering and industrious ; 
they excel in the arts, particularly 
in painting and music. 

In Belgium there exists no pri- 
vilege nor monopoly. — Political 
opinion, commerce, and all associa- 
tions enjoy the same freedom. 

There are two universities in the 
kingdom, which are provided for at 
the expense of the State; one at 
Ghent, the other at Liege ; philo- 
sophy and literature, mathematics, 
natural philosophy, law and medi- 
cine, are taught at both. 

There is, moreover, a Catholic 
university at Louvaine, which pro- 
fesses the faculties of theology, law, 
medicine, philosophy, and litera- 
ture. There is also a free univer- 
sity at Brussels, the course of in- 
struction of which embraces the 
same branches as the preceding, 
except theology. 

Belgium possesses six first-rate 
academies of painting at Antwerp, 
Brussels, Bruges, Ghent, Liege, and 
Louvaine, and several second-rate 
academies in different towns. The 
academy of painting at Antwerp 
embraces every branch connected 
with the fine arts. 

A triennial exhibition of the fine 
arts takes place alternately at Ant- 
werp, Brussels, and Ghent. There 
is one at Liege and Mechlin every 
two years. 

Belgium also possesses three con- 
servatories of music ; those of 
Brussels and Liege are called royal, 
and are supported at the expense of 
the State. 

The French language is spoken 
all over the kingdom ; but Flemish 
predominates in East and West 
Flanders, in the province of Ant- 
werp, in part of Brabant, and in 
Limburg. 

Belgium has retained the French 
system of coinage ; the fra?ic is the 
unit. The silver coin consists of 
pieces of 5 fr., 2 fr., 1 fr., 50 cents.. 



and 25 cents. ; the copper of 2 cents., 
5 cents., and 10 cents. There are 
also a few copper silvered pieces 
worth 21 cents, and 10 cents. 

The coins of the kingdom of the 
Netherlands are still current in 
Belgium : the unit is the florin worth 
2 fr. 11 cents. 64.190. 

The French copper and brass 
money is not current in Belgium. 

The beauty of the country, its 
commerce, manufactures, and rich- 
ness, the splendour of its principal 
towns, and the antiquity of its mo- 
numents, continually attract nu- 
merous travellers, whose number 
will every year be rendered more 
considerable by the railroads, of 
which Brussels is the centre. 

EOUTE 8. 

LONDON TO ANTWERP, 

Steam-packets leave London for 
Antwerp twice a week during the 
summer, the boats belonging to the 
General steam Navigation Com- 
pany from Blackwall, and the boats 
belonging to the Antwerp Com- 
pany from St. Catherine's Wharf, 
near the Tower. The former on 
Thursdays, and the latter on Sun- 
days. Passengers by the boats of 
the former company may proceed 
by omnibus from the West end, and 
to Blackwall by railway from Fen- 
church-street. 

The trains leave Fenchurch-street, 
every quarter of an hour in 10 
minutes ; fares, 1st class, 6d. ; the 
sheep pens, or 2d class, uprights, 4:d» 
No charge for luggage, except the 
porters, whose charges are fixed by 
a tariff, as follows : a large trunk, 
2d., small ditto, or carpet bag, Id., 
from cab or omnibus to train, or from 
train to vessel. 

For description of the Thames, 
and price of provisions on board 
the boats^ see Route 1. Page 1. 

SCHELDT, 

163 miles from London. 



BELaiUM. ROUTE 8. — SCHELDT. 



33 



Entering the West Scheldt, the 
island of Walcheren, the largest of 
nine, occupies the left. That side 
which faces the sea is defended 
against the encroachments of that 
element by one continued wall or 
ridge of high sandhills, interrupted 
only at West Capel, where an arti- 
ficial dyke has been raised to the 
height, it is said, of thirty feet, and 
defended in a very ingenious and 
extraordinary manner. This arti- 
ficial barrier is of so much impor- 
tance, that on its stability the 
safety of the whole island may be 
said to depend. 

At the point of the island where 
flushing is situated, a strong wall 
of masonry protects the town 
against the sea ; and the side facing 
the Scheldt is embanked with great 
care, and its repair evidently kept 
up at an enormous expense. Em- 
bankments or dykes of the same 
kind are carried along both banks 
of the river ; and at the base of 
each is thrown out a barrier of 
stones and stakes to protect the 
higher ramparts of earth; and these 
again are covered with great care 
and ingenuity with a kind of thatch, 
consisting of bean-stubble or straw. 
The stones at the base are some- 
times thrown into a kind of wicker 
or basket-work of withy twigs, and 
the whole kept together by ropes 
made of the same material, and in- 
terwoven with rushes ; and where 
the current or the tide sets strong- 
est, rows of stakes or poles are 
driven into the sand, to act as 
breakwaters for the protection of 
the base of the sloping bank, which 
receives a further consistence by 
being grown over with grass, on 
the gently sloping sides of which 
very fine cattle may be seen graz- 
ing, many of which are handsomely 
spotted. 

In various parts of the shores of 
the river, in addition to the regular 
embankments, are small break- 
waters of stonework, thrown out 



at right angles into the stream, in- 
tended to guard the dykes against 
the shock of floating timber or 
vessels, but more particularly 
against the masses of ice which 
float down in the winter season. 

These dykes are of various height 
and thickness, according to their 
situation and the urgency of the 
case. They are formed sloping on 
each side, the breadth of the base 
being very considerable, and many 
of them sufficiently wide on the 
top for two carriages to go abreast. 
Although the sea has still continued 
to rise upon their coast, and some 
of their land is 40 feet below the 
high-water mark, they consider 
themselves in perfect security. The 
traveller experiences a sensation of 
mingled pleasure, astonishment, 
and apprehension when he walks 
at the foot of some of the dykes, 
and hears the surges dash far above 
his head. 

In the same manner they have 
built numerous dykes on the banks 
of their rivers, and seem to have 
brought into complete subjection 
the vast body of water which runs 
through or surrounds their country. 
These dykes are properly consi- 
dered to be national works, and are 
maintained at incredible labour and 
expense. 

On the muddy shores of the 
Scheldt whole shoals of seals may 
generally be seen in difierent atti- 
tudes, some playing about and 
wallowing in the mud. They are 
possessed of a high degree of 
cunning, and not easily caught ; 
the usual mode of taking them is 
by setting a long range of nets 
below the surface of the high-water 
line, so as to admit them into it at 
that time of tide; over which nets, 
as the water falls, they are unable 
to repass. Also large quantities of 
smelt are caught on the shores, a 
name given them by the Dutch, on 
account of their seeming to melt 
C 2 



m 



RGfCJI*E •8.''=-J«£j;Ti«lBRP. PAR* 31. 



away when disturbed by the fisher- 
men in quest of them. 

Flushing contains 7,000 inhabi- 
tants; with a dockyard and arsenal, 
and is the birth-place of the cele- 
brated Admiral de Ruiter; it was 
taken by Lord Chatham in 1809. 
At this place the Scheldt is nearly 
three miles broad. 

Middleburg, the capital of Zea- 
land, is five miles inland, and cele- 
brated as the residence of EQpper- 
shey, the inventor of the telescope, 
in 1608. Antwerp is sixty miles 
from Flushing, and frequently 
reached in five hours by the steam- 
packefcs, tide and weather permit- 
ting. On the right is 
. £lezoliet, an inhabitant of which, 
in the year 1386, invented the 
means of curing herrings, and so 
important Avas the discoTcry consi- 
dered, that a monument was erected 
to his memory in the church. 

To the east of Walcheren is 
South Beveland, twenty-four miles 
in length, and seven in breadth. 
ITie only place of consequence 
which it contains is Goes, or Ter- 
feroes. It has a considerable trade 
in salt, corn, and metheglinj and 
r-feckons 3,700 inhabitants. It is 
memorable for the extraordinary 
manner in which the Spaniards 
taised the siege of it by the Inde- 
pendents. They marched a body 
of troops seven miles through the 
water, from Bergen-op-Zoom across 
a ford that was never deemed prac- 
ticable before, and that has never 
■been attempted since. 

At Fort Lillo the Scheldt assumes 
the appearance of a river, from 
whence a view of Antwerp is first 
obtained. 

The Scheldt rises behind the gar- 
dens of the ancient abbey of Mont- 
Saint-Martin, near Catalet, about 
ten miles north of St Quentin. 
This majestic river, whose naviga- 
tion has often embroiled the greater 
^art of Europe, flows from an arch 
twelve feet deep, dug in the side 



of a hill. On one of the stOHes of 
the arch is a latin inscription, trans^ 
lated as follows i — 

Happy is thy fate, O Schd^'! 
beautifid river ! who springing from 
sacred ground, waterest and enrichest 
the noble country of Belgium, and 
after having visited so many celebrated 
cities, rollest majestically into the 
ocean. 

The Scheldt flows by Cambray, 
Bouchain, Valenciennes, and Con- 
de ; after which it enters the Ne- 
therlands, and proceeding by Tour- 
nay, Oudenarde, Ghent, Dender- 
mont, and Antwerp, divides into 
two principal branches, called the 
eastern and western Scheldt, which 
form the islands of Zealand. 

The luggage of passengers is 
opened and examined on board of 
the vessel, immediately on her ar- 
rival ; this plan is a great accom- 
modation, and to persons anxious 
to proceed at once by the railway 
to Brussels or Liege, much time is 
saved. The passport is taken by 
the proper officer ; when asked to 
what hotel you are going if you 
state your intention to proceed im- 
mediately it wiU be signed and de- 
livered on applying at the PasspoTt- 
offlce on the quay. 

ANTWERP. 

Hotel StAntoine, Place Vert, op- 
posite the Cathedral. Proprietor, 
M. Schmitt, Spaenhoven. This is 
a first-rate large establishment, 
highly spoken of by travellers ge- 
nerally. An excellent table d'hote 
twice a day during the summer, at 
two and four ; private dinners 
at all hours. English newspapers. 
Grand Ldhoxirer ; Place de Meir ; 
good. 

This ancient city, the capital -of 
the province, stands on the Scheldt, 
and was once the chief mart of 
Flemish and European commerce. 
In 1586 it contained 200,000 inha- 
bitants, but when the northern pro- 
vinces threw off the Spanish yoke, 



BELGIUM. ROUTE 8. — ANTWERP. 



35 



they obtained possession of the 
mouth of the Scheldt, blocked up 
the entrance to the haxbour, fa- 
tally crippled the commerce of Ant- 
•we]:p, and transfered the greater 
part of it to Amsterdam. The city 
now contains 76,000 inhabitants. 

The arms of Antwerp consist of 
a castle with two hands, and in 
several parts of the city are rude 
sculptures of a man grasping the 
hand of a giant. Some antiqua- 
ries explain this by a very curious 
legend. They tell us that on the 
spot on which Antwerp is built, 
once stood the castle of a giant, 
who held the neighbouring country 
in thraldom, and cutting off the 
right hand of all who fell into his 
power, threw it into the sea. At 
tlength a Eoman, named Salvius 
rBrabon (from whom it is said that 
BrahantJ derived its name), con- 
quered this monster, inflicted on 
him the lex tahonis, and threw his 
immense hand into the ocean. The 
castle of the giant was destroyed, 
and a town built on its site called 
Hand-werpen or Hand-thrown. 
This in process of time was abbre- 
viated to Antwerp. 

The numerous stately buildings 
in the old Gothic style which the 
city yet contains, testify its former 
grandeur. The fortunes that were 
accumulated by many of the mer- 
chants of Antwerp exceed all cre- 
'jdibility. Charles V condescended 
iio dine with one of the principal 
JHaagistrates. After the repast the 
•icitizen threw into the fire a bill of 
5,000,000 ducats, which he had 
lent the monarch, exclaiming, that 
he was more than repaid by the 
j^^QQQur that Charles had then done 

Eegnard, in his voyage to Glan- 
ders in 1681, says of Antwerp, "It 
surpasses every city which I have 
seen, with the exception of Naples, 
Eome, and Venice, in the magnifi- 
eence of its houses, the grandeur of 
its churches, and the spaciousness 



of its noble streets." The street 
called Place de Meir is truly un- 
rivalled in its extraordinary breadth, 
its great length, the sumptuous- 
ness of its houses, and the splen- 
dour of everything in its neigh- 
bourhood. 

The general appearance of the 
city is, however, much injured by 
the strange intermixture of magni- 
ficent palaces with the dwellings of 
the lowest classes of society. The 
nobleman and the mechanic not 
only inhabit the same street, but 
even the very adjoining houses. 
The traveller will likewise com- 
plain that even the noblest edifices 
are destitute of that sunken area, 
which, hindering the too near ap- 
proach of the passenger, adds so 
much to the grandeur of the build- 
ing; and that the want of a foot 
pavement not only exposes the 
pedestrian to continual inconveni- 
ence and danger, but encases the 
lower story of the most sumptuous 
palace with an unsightly covering 
of mud. 

The city is in the form of a se - 
micircle, and about seven miles in 
circumference. It has 212 streets^ 
eight churches, five hospitals, twx) 
of which are military, five asylums 
for orphans, one of which is for 
foundlings, and another for stran- 
gers, a palace, a mont de piete, ^ 
custom house, four canals, three 
barracks, twenty-six asylums called 
Maisons de Dieu, and about 9,000 
houses. The Scheldt is here about 
1,400 feet broad and 20 feet deep, 
at low water, and vessels anchor 
close to the quays. 

The tide rises to the unusual 
height of ten or twelve feet, and at 
new and full moon to nearly eighteen 
feet. At high water the river is 
navigable for ships of war majay 
miles above the town. . 1 

The Quays, which w6re 'lately 
constructed, are planted witli trees, 
and form a delightful promenade 
for the inhabitants. 



36 



EOUTE 8. — ANTWERP. PART II. 



The Docks were formed by Na- 
poleon, and were the largest and 
most complete in Europe. One of 
the basins would contain forty sail 
of the line. They were nearly de- 
stroyed by the last expedition of 
the English. 

The Harbour is sufficiently spa- 
cious to accommodate 2,000 ships, 
and is divided into four canals, 
lined with extensive quays, ware- 
houses, and magazines. The com- 
merce of Antwerp is said to have 
considerably decreased these few 
years ; yet the harbour will at all 
times be found to contain numerous 
foreign vessels, and the canals that 
run from it are filled with smaller 
craft from the towns in the interior. 
Near the principal basin is an 
immense warehouse, called the 
Oosterling or Hanseatic House, 
erected in 1829. It forms a square, 
each side of which is 230 feet. The 
middle story was designed for the 
residence of merchants, but it is not 
now used for that purpose. 

The Citadel, constructed in 1568, 
by Paciotti, under the direction of 
the Duke of Alva, according to the 
old style of fortification, is extreme- 
ly formidable. It is built in the 
form of a pentagon, with six bas- 
tions, which defend each other, and 
are surrounded by a deep and 
broad ditch. It contains a beauti- 
ful church, where the Protestant 
service is performed, and in which 
are interred several Spanish noble- 
men. The veteran Carnot was ap- 
pointed Governor of Antwerp by 
Napoleon, and all the resources of 
art were exhausted by him in con- 
tributing to the strength of the 
place. 

Numerous subterranean canals 
formerly passed under the streets. 
They were mostly excavated at the 
expense of individuals, and destined 
to convey to the magazines of the 
merchants, in small boats, the goods 
which had been brought into the 
city through the open canals in 



larger vessels. They are now used': 
for the purpose of sewers. 

The Royal Palace, in the Place de- 
Meir, bought by the French Go- 
vernment, as a residence for Buona- 
parte, contains several fine rooms,, 
embellished with paintings. 

The cathedral of Notre Dame is- 
one of the noblest Gothic structures 
on the continent. It is 500 feet 
long, 230 wide, and 360 high. It 
was begun in 1422, under the super- 
intendence of Amelius, one of the 
most celebrated architects of his 
time, and was completed in 1518,. 
occupying a period of ninety-six 
years. 

The large and magnificent nave' 
is unequalled in the Low Countries- 
It is destitute of many of those 
glittering and false ornaments that 
crowd most other buildings, and 
exhibits a specimen of simple and 
aAvful grandeur. 

The beautiful spire is 466 feet in 
height. It was intended that a 
similar one should have been built 
by its side, but this was soon dis- 
continued, and leaves the first a 
much finer object than it would 
have appeared had the project 
been completed. The tower con- 
tains eighty-two bells, the largest 
of which being out of repair, is no- 
longer used. It weighs 16,800^ 
pounds, and required sixteen men 
to ring it. 

The gallery of the tower, the^ 
ascent to which is formed by 622: 
steps, presents a pleasing and un- 
interrupted view of the town, its- 
fortifications, the course of the 
Scheldt as far as the islands at its 
mouth, the surrounding country,, 
and the sea. To ascend to the top of" 
the tower seventy- five centimes is 
charged for one person, one franc 
for two persons, and a party pays 
in proportion. 

This church contains the noblest 
works of the best Plemish masters,. 
particularly the ' Elevation of the 
Cross,' and ' The Descent ' from it, 



BELGIUM. ROUTE 8. ANTWERP. 



37 



by Rubens, in his very happiest 
style ; and the ' Ascension of the 
Virgin,' by the same master. The 
figures are admirably grouped, and 
the expression of each cannot be 
too much admired. The ' Visita- 
tion' on the left, and the ' Purifi- 
cation, on the right of the 'Descent,' 
and the wings of the ' Elevation of 
the Cross,' are likewise fine paint- 
ings by Rubens. 

The dome, in the centre of the 
cathedral, was painted by Schultz, 
and represents the heavenly choir 
chanting the praises of the Holy 
Virgin 

Several of the smaller chapels 
surrounding the cathedral contain 
some admirable paintings. The 
altar-piece of the chapel of the 
Sacrament is a fine painting by 
Herreyns, representing the Disci- 
ples at Emmaus ; and in the chapel, 
to the right of the choir, is a picture 
by Franck, the elder, of our Lord 
and the doctors, containing portraits 
of Luther, Calvin, Erasmus, John 
Huss, &c. The chapel, beyond the 
sacristy, is adorned with a Virgin 
and infant Jesus, sculptured by Le 
Quesnoy. 

The other objects in this cathe- 
dral most deserving of attention 
are, the Mausoleum of Ambrose 
Capello, the seventh bishop of 
Antwerp, an exquisite specimen of 
sculpture by Verbruggen; the pul- 
pit, which was sculptured by the 
same artist; the * Marriage of Cana,' 
painted by Martin de Vos ; the 
tomb of Moretus, a celebrated 
printer, adorned with paintings by 
Rubens ; the tomb of Plantin, like- 
wise a printer, ornamented with his 
portrait, painted by Herreyns, and 
and the 'Last Judgment' by De 
Backer; the altar, in the chapel 
behind the choir, remarkable as the 
only one out of thirty-two which 
escaped the Revolution ; the * Holy 
Family,' by Otto Van Veen, in the 
chapel of the Virgin ; and the mon- 
ument of Van Delft, with a beau- 



tiful figure in white marble sculp- 
tured by Scheemakers. 

On the outside of the cathedral, 
near the west door, is the tomb of 
the painter Matsys, and not far 
from it is a pump, formerly an open 
well, the iron work of which is 
said to have been executed by the 
hammer of that excellent artist,, 
before love had raised him from his 
original humble occupation. 

The Church of St Jacques, the 
interior of which is remarkably 
splendid, contains the sepulchre of 
Rubens. It is of black marble, and 
is situated in a chapel on the side 
of the choir, and it is appropriately 
accompanied by one of his own 
paintings, representing himself, his 
three wives, his children, and his 
parents. 

The windows of this church are 
also much admired, besides many 
other objects worthy of observa- 
tion. 

In the Church of St Paul, for- 
merly of the Dominicans, are some 
valuable works of Rubens and 
Vandyke, particularly the ' Scourg- 
ing of Christ' by the former. In 
the yard of this church, to the right 
of the entrance, is a representation 
of ' Mount Calvary,' exhibiting, in a 
rude but spirited style, the wild 
and rocky grandeur of the place, 
and thronged with innumerable 
figures of patriarchs, prophets, and 
apostles. This church likewise 
contains the works of Mercy, 
painted by Teniers the elder ; a 
portrait of St Dominic, copied from 
Carravaggio ; and several other good 
paintings, including the 'Adoration 
of the Shepherds,' by Rubens; a 
copy of Rubens' Scourging, by a 
student of Antwerp ; the grand 
altar-piece, representing the 'De- 
scent from the Cross,' by Cels ; the 
'Assembly of a Council,' by Sallaerts, 
by some attributed to Rubens ; the 
grand altar, a noble specimen of 
architecture, by Verbruggen ; and 
the clock, which is of very curious 



^8 



SOtlTE 8.— ANTWERP. PART II. 



construction ; it is in the form of a 
globe, surrounded by the hours, 
to which time points with an 
arrow. 

In the Church of St Augustine are 
other works of Rubens and Van- 
dyke. The carved work of the 
ipulpit, by H. Verbruggen, is much 
admired, and the altar-piece, at the 
end of the nave, is painted by Jor- 
deans, and represents the ' Martyr- 
dom of St Appollinus.' The grand 
altar is adorned with a beautiful 
picture by Rubens, and with sculp- 
ture by Verbruggen, from designs 
i)y the same distinguished master, 
Nwho has introduced a portrait of 
himself as St George. 

St Charles Borromeus, generally 
called the Church of the Jesuits, 
is distinguished by a very splendid 
■front, the lower part of which was 
•erected from designs by Rubens. 
The interior is also richly orna- 
mented, though it still bears marks 
of the revolution. This church was 
occupied as an hospital for the Bri- 
tish soldiers after the battle of Wa- 
terloo. It was originally built of 
«marble, from designs by Rubens, 
but was destroyed by jfire in 1718. 
pChe present edifice is an imitation 
dn stone. 

The Church of St Andrew contains 
a portrait of Mary Queen of Scots; 
and a beautiful carved pulpit. 

The Exchange, from which Sir 
Thomas Gresham took the model 
of the old Exchange of London. 
It does not, however, possess the 
least attraction as a public build- 
ing. It was erected in 1531, and 
is supported by forty -four stone 
■pillars, which are differently sculp- 
tured. It is 180 feet in length and 
140 in breadth, and contains nu- 
merous subterranean warehouses, 
•over which are the halls occupied 
by the Tribunal and Chamber of 
Commerce, who hold their sittings 
here. 

The Town^house^ in the great 
'Market place, is a noble edifice, 



constructed of stone, having a mar^ 
ble front ornamented with statues. 
It was rebuilt in 1581; and is 250 
feet in length. It is a singular 
coincidence, that the very period 
which witnessed the erection of 
this splendid building marked the 
rapid decay of the commerce and 
prosperity of Antwerp. 

The Public Library in the Hotel de 
Ville contains 15,000 volumes, but 
it cannot boast any rare editions 
or valuable MSS. This building 
likewise contains a fine collection 
of ancient and modern paintings, 
amongst which are representations 
of all the battles that took place in 
the vicinity of the city during the 
time of the Spaniards. The ceiling 
in the hall of the Little College, 
painted by Pellegrini, exhibits Jus- 
tice destroying the Vices, and in 
the Great Hall is a fine portrait of 
William I, by Van Bree. 

Antwerp has no extensive squares, 
but the Market-place, thronged 
every Friday with the inhabitants 
of the neighbouring villages, pre- 
sents a busy and pleasing scene. 

The Place Verte contains a beau- 
tiful statue of Rubens in bronze. 

This city had the honour of pro- 
ducing two unrivalled painters, 
Rubens and Vandyke. Teniers, 
Snyders, and Jordans, were like- 
wise natives of Antwerp. The 
house in which Rubens lived may 
still be seen in the street which 
bears his name, but the front has 
been rebuilt. 

Antwerp boasts of its Academy 
of the Fine Arts supported at the 
public expense, and on which at 
least a thousand pupils annually 
attend. It is held at the Museum. 

The Museum, which is situated at 
the ci-devant Convent des Recol- 
lets, consists of a fine collection of 
pictures, amongst which are the 
'Burial of Christ,' the 'Martyrdom 
of St John,' and the ' Head of John 
the Baptist,' by Quintin Matsys ; 
the 'Adoration of the Magi,' by Al- 



BELGIUM. ROUTE 8.— ANTWERP. 



39 



tiert Durer ; the ' Resurrection of 
Christ,' by Martin deVos; the ' Mar- 
l^dom of St Cosmo and St Da- 
mian,' by Franck the elder; ' Christ 
between the Thieves,' the ' Adora- 
tion of the Magi,' the 'Descent from 
the Cross,' the 'Trinity,' 'Christ 
showing his wounds to Thomas,' 
' portraits of Mcolas Rockox and his 
wife,' ' St Theresa interceding for 
jsotds in purgatory,' the ' Commu- 
nion of St Francis,' the ' Virgin and 
Infant Jesus,' and a copy of the 
celebrated ' Descent from the Cross' 
in miniature, all by Rubens; 'Christ 
on the Cross,' ' St Dominick and St 
Catherine,' ' Christ reposing on the 
knees of the Virgin,' and portrait 
of Alexander Scaglia, by Vandyke ; 
the Keeper of the Academy of Ant- 
werp, by Cornelius de Vos ; a Gar- 
land of flowers encircling Ignatius, 
by Seghers and Schut ; the ' Adora- 
tion of the Shepherds,' by Jor- 
daens ; and ' Swans,' by Snyders. 

Here also may be seen a stran- 
gely conceived, but well executed, 
painting by Flors, the father-in-law 
of Matsys. A curious anecdote is 
connected with it. Matsys exer- 
cised the laborious occupation of a 
smith. Chance presented to him 
the daughter of Flors. He became 
deeply enamoured of her ; he dared 
to tell her his love, and succeeded 
in gaining her affections. In vain 
he entreated the fathier's consent 
to their anion. The artist pe- 
remptorily refused ; and added, that 
his daughter should marry no one 
but a painter at least equal to him- 
self. Inspired by love, Matsys 
jsecretly and diligently applied him- 
iself to the study of painting. Day 
and night he laboured at his new 
profession, and the only hours of 
recreation in which he indulged 
were those that were spent in the 
Society of his beloved. After maily 
inenths' intense application, he saw 
in the study of Flors, this painting of 
the ' Fallen Angels,' in the exeeu- 
tion of which, that great master 



had exerted his utmost skill, and 
which he esteemed his chef-d'oeuvre. 
After much hesitation, he resolved 
to make one daring effort to sur- 
prise and win the old man. He 
seized the pallet of Flors, and 
painted a large bee on the thigh of 
one of the angels. This was exe- 
cuted with so much spirit and 
delicacy, that Flors, on his return, 
frankly declared that so promising 
an artist was truly worthy of his 
daughter, and gave his immediate 
and cordial assent to their mar- 
riage. 

In an apartment adjoining the 
principal gallery is a fine collection 
of casts, as well as the chair which 
Rubens occupied at the Hall of 
Painters. The Museum also contains 
an ancient stone found in the vicinity 
of Antwerp, numerous early speci- 
mens of painting, several sketches 
by Rubens, and a considerable 
number of pictures by living artists ; 
the latter are for sale, and the 
price may be known on appUcation 
to the person who attends. Op- 
posite the door of the Museum is 
theMonument of Mary of Burgundy, 
ornamented with her statue in 
bronze, and the figure of her dog, 
in an attempt to save which she 
was drowned. On the exterior of 
the walls are numerous tablets in 
honour of eminent painters, and in 
one part of the garden is a hand- 
some pedestal sunnounted by a 
bust of Rubens. 

A public annual exhibition of the 
productions of the students takes 
place alternately at Antwerp, Brus- 
sels, and Ghent ; and the paintings 
or sculptures which gain the prizes, 
then distributed with much solem- 
nity, are purchased by the city to 
which the successful candidate be- 
longs, and added to the public col- 
lection, with his name emblazoned 
on the frame. 

Antwerp possesses a beautiful 
Theatre, finished in 1834, where 
performances take place during the 



40 



KOUTE 8. — ANTWERP. PART II. 



■winter ; a Botanical Garden, in the 
Eue des Predicateurs ; a Royal 
Athenaeum in the same street. 

The chief manufactures of Ant- 
werp are lace, which is sold under 
the name of Mechlin lace ; a strong 
black silk, of which the failles, or 
covering for the head, worn by the 
inferior Flemish women, are made ; 
a fine black dye ; and the bleach- 
ing of cotton and thread- 
In 1576, Antwerp was sacked 
by the Spaniards. For three days 
and nights, the ferocious soldiery 
were employed in plundering and 
butchering the defenceless inha- 
bitants ; 7,000 burghers of Antwerp 
perished. The spoil of the con- 
querors amounted to more than 
40,000,000 of guilders, and the most 
beautiful part of the city was burned 
to the ground. 

Antwerp was taken by the Prince 
of Parma in 1585, after a memor- 
able siege of more than a year, with 
an army of 120,000 men. During 
the Revolution Antwerp was taken 
by the French, who retained it till 
May, 1814, when it was successfully 
bombarded. In 1832 the citadel 
sustained a siege of two months 
under the brave Dutch Veteran 
Chasse. 

Opposite to Antwerp, on the east 
of the Scheldt, where Napoleon in- 
tended to have built a new city, 
several forts have been erected. It 
was not far from this spot, that the 
English, under Lord Chatham, 
bombarded the city. 

There are several good coffee- 
houses and restaurateurs in the 
Place de Meir, and Place Verte, and 
there are baths at the Hotel du 
Pare, in the Place Verte, and in the 
Rue de la Cuilliere. 

Two fairs for every kind of mer- 
chandise are held here annually. 
The principal, on the first Monday 
after 15th of August. The market 
days are Wednesday and Priday. 

5^ea?n-pacAef*leaveAntwerp twice 
a week for London. The Soho or 



Wilberforce belonging to the Gen- 
eral Steam Navigation Company, 
on Sundays, and the Princess Vic- 
toria, belonging to the Antwerp 
Steam Packet Company, on Wed- 
nesdays. For further particulars 
see advertisement at the end. 

Steam Packets to Rotterdam four 
times a week. 

The Post Office in Place Verte^ 
adjoining the Hotel du Pare, is open 
for the delivery and receipt of letters 
from eight in the morning till six in 
the evening ; letters are delivered at 
the window within the entrance; 
paid letters are received at the 
lower end of the passage. 

English Divine Worship takes 
place twice every Sunday in the 
church, Rue des Tanneurs. 

Commissioners are in constant at- 
tendance at the hotels, ready to 
conduct travellers through the 
town. 

Omnibusses call at the hotels pre^ 
vious to the starting of each train, 
and will set down travellers in any 
part of the town they wish, after 
the arrival of each train, fare each, 
way half a franc, with a trifle for 
luggage if more than a carpet 
bag. 

Hackney Coaches are plentiful in 
Antwerp ; the fares are moderate, a 
tariff of which will be found within 
each vehicle, so that strangers 
need have no fear of being imjiosed 
upon. 

The Bailway terminus is outside 
the Malines Gate, the trains start 
several times a day for Brussels,. 
Liege,Cologne, Valenciennes, Ghent, 
Bruges, and Ostend ; the fares and 
regulations of departure will be 
found under the head of RaHways 
in the Introduction. 

On arrival at the station, see that 
your luggage be taken from the 
Omnibus into the baggage office j 
see it weighed, numbered, pay for 
it and receive a receipt with a cor- 
responding number. You then pro- 
ceed to, and take your place in, the 



BELGIUM. ROUTE 9. — MALIKES. 



4^ 



waiting room till the bell an- 
nounces the time for entering the 
carriages. 

Travellers now are charged for 
all luggage, except what can be 
taken with them into the carriages, 
such as bags, baskets, &c. 

Luggage that has not distinctly 
the proprietor's name upon it, and 
that of the station to which he is go- 
ing, and that is not packed in such 
a manner as to preserve the con- 
tents, can be refused at the weigh- 
ing office. 

KOUTE 9. KAILROAD. 

ANTWERP TO BRUSSELS, LIEGE, AIX- 
LA-CHAPELLE, AND COLOGNE. 

1,600 metres to an English mile. 

Metres. Miles. 

Antwerp to Malines . 23,500 — H| 

Malines to Brussels . . 20,300 — 12§ 

Do. toLouvain. . 23,760 — 14^ 

Louvain to Tirlemont . 17,750 — 11 

Tirlemont to Warerame 27,200 — 17 

Waremme to Liege . . 25,827 — 16^ 

Liege to Verviers . . 24,193 — 15 
Verviers to the Prussian 

Frontier ..... 15,000. — 9| 

177,520 — 111 



,' For fares, &c. see Introduction. 

In quitting the station through 
the Faubourg Borgenhous, contain- 
ing 65OOO inhabitants, on the right is 
Berchem, where in 1832 the French 
army took up their quarters, and 
first broke ground. 

Vieux-Dieu, the next hamlet with 
a station, derives its name from a 
heathen idol which remained on 
this spot after the final establish- 
ment of Christianity. A league to 
the left of the railroad is Lierre, a 
small town remarkable for its old 
buildings, the population amounts 
to 13,000. Crossing the Nethe op- 
posite the Chateau de Ter-Elst, now 
the property of M. Herman, reach 
Malines ; a pillar is placed here to 
commemorate the solemn inaugura- 
tion of the railway, May 7th, 1837. 

Malines station. At this station the 
travellers from Antwerp to Cologne 
have to wait the arrival of the 



trains from Brussels, Ostend, &c.; 
the carriages are mostly changed, 
and a snug corner from Antwerp ta 
Malines will sometimes be ex- 
changed for an uncomfortable seat 
from Malines to Liege ; luggage 
which has been weighed and placed 
in the van is properly taken care of, 
but the small parcels, which are 
often allowed to be carried in the 
hand of travellers, of course must 
be taken out with you. When the 
carriages are ready, a board is ex- 
hibited with the destination of that 
train painted on it. Great con- 
fusion and want of regularity seems 
to prevail here to an unlimited ex- 
tent. 

aOiLlNES. 

Hotels St Antoine, La Grue, Sf 
Jacques. 

The name of Malines among the 
whole of the ancient authors signi- 
fies the reflux of the sea, as Ledo 
which is Lierre, signifies the flux. 
The city of Malines was,in the eighth 
century, nothing more than a col- 
lection of cottages and huts, in the 
centre of which stood a monastery 
of canons, where St Kombaud suf- 
fered martyrdom the 24th of June, 
775. The 30th of May, 1342, a 
conflagration reduced a part of the 
town to ruins, and on the 7th of 
August, 1547, the lightning having 
struck a gate, called Santpoorte, 
Avhich served as a powder magazine^ 
the explosion was such that 300 
houses and several churches were 
levelled with the ground and more 
than 800 persons killed or wounded,. 
Malines was also ravaged by nu- 
merous overflowings of the Dyle,. 
which even in the present day 
sometimes inundates its environs. 

Malines was taken by the Duke 
of Marlborough in 1706, and by the 
French in 1746, who restored it ift 
1748 after the treaty of Aix-Ia-Cha- 
pelle ; they again took possession 
of it in 1792, lost it in 1793, and re-^ 
entered in 1794. In 1804 the French 



42 



ROUTE 9. — MALIKES. PART II. 



governinent caused all the fortifi- 
cations to be dismantled. Malines 
is surnamed LaPropre on account 
of the great cleanliness of its streets. 
It bore the name of PuceUe (maiden) 
until the of Louis XIV, because 
until that time it had never been 
taken by assault. Malines was once 
renowned for its beautiful lace, but 
there are very few houses now in 
which this is made, in consequence 
of its being almost entirely super- 
seded by the manufacture of tulles. 
There are still, however, fabricated 
at Mechhn laces as beautiful as 
they are durable, and remarkable 
as much for their good taste as the 
elegance of their designs ; such, in 
short, as deservedly to sustain the 
ancient reputation of the place. 

The felt hats of Malines are much 
songht after, particularly those 
which are made for ecclesiastics. 
Here are also to be found those cloth 
manufactories which in the four- 
teenth century gave occupation to 
3,000 looms ; manufactories of linen, 
blankets, and cotton counterpanes ; 
the goldsmith's trade; dying, spin- 
ning fine thread for lace, pin and 
comb making, and the pressing of 
oil from the colza and linseed. 
There is here also an extensive ma- 
nufactorj' of shawls in imitation of 
cashmere. The manufacture of 
gilt brass which was exported to 
every part of Europe was once to this 
city an extremely important article ; 
the manufacture of chairs is also not 
inconsiderable. In 1830, twenty- 
three chair-makers occupied daily 
more than 450 workmen. 

Metropolitan Church of St Rom- 
haud. — This beautiful cathedral was 
commenced towards the end of the 
twelfth century and terminated to- 
wards the end of the fifteenth, from 
the produce of the offerings made 
"by pilgrims who came to get in- 
dulgences for visiting the relics of 
St Eombaud. The tower, begun 
in 1452, is unfinished ; it is 350 
English feet high, or 97 metres 30 



centimetres, and should have had 
30 metres more, which would then 
have made it the highest church in 
the world. From this tower the eye 
wanders over a vast extent of coun- 
try, and the towers maybe clearly 
seen of St Gudule at Brussels and 
Notre-Dame of Antwerp. An in- 
scription affirms that it was ascend- 
ed by Louis XV. It contains a 
very fine carillon. The clock dial 
is 48 feet in diameter : its design is 
seen on the pavement of the Grand 
Place. 

The principal picture in the 
cathedral is a ' Christ between the 
two Thieves with the Holy Virgin 
and St John at the foot of the 
Cross,' by A. Van Dyck, 

Notre Dame. In the chapel situ- 
ated behind the choir is a grand 
composition by Eubens represent" 
ing the ' Miraculous Draught of St 
Peter,' with two wings ; upon one, 
the ' History of Tobias' who, by the 
inspiration of his guardian angel, 
seizes, on the sea- shore,, upon the 
gall of a fish in order to restore 
the eyes of his father ; upon the 
other, the ' Catching of the Fish to 
pay the Tribute Money.' On the 
reverse of the wings, St Peter and 
St Andrew. These eight pictures 
were painted in ten days. Under 
the French government they were 
taken away for the purpose of being 
placed in the Museum of Paris, 
where they remained eighteen 
years. 

StJohri. The Church of St John 
possesses one of the finest compo- 
sitions of Kubens, it is in the choir 
above the grand altar ; it represents 
the 'Adoration of the Magi .' The 
wings, which closed it, are now 
detached and placed at its sides; 
the one on the left represents the 
' Beheading of St John the Baptiste.' 
Rubens valued the compositions in 
this church by far the most. It is 
well known that he often said to 
his friends when they were compli- 
menting him. ** You should go io 



BELGIUai. EOUTE 9. — TAALnFBS, 



43 



St John's at Malines if you wish to 
see my finest pictures. " The pulpit 
and bas-reliefs are by Verhaegen. 

St Catherine. This church was 
taiilt towards the end of the 13th 
icentury. 

Ji'or a continuation of the road to 
Liege, see Haute 13. 

Quitting the Malines station the 
next village on the road to Brussels 
is 

Vilvorde, where the trains make 
a temporary stoppage ; it is rather 
more than half way from Malines. 
This little town, one of the most 
ancient in Belgium, was known in 
the eighth century by the name of 
Eilfurdum. On the site of an old 
castle, erected by Duke Wenceslas, 
Maria Theresa, in 1 7 7 6, built the pre- 
sent celebrated prison ; at Vilvorde, 
Tindal (who first translated the New 
Testament into English) suffered 
martyrdom. Nearing Brussels a 
pleasant hill, covered with delight- 
ful gentlemen's seats, occupy the 
left; opposite to which stands the 
Palace of Laeken, the residence of 
his Majesty the King of the Bel- 
gians. 

Village of Laeken is situated at a 
short distance from the Allee Verte, 
and is said to have existed in the 
seventh century. The church in 
which is interred Madame Malibran, 
was built under Hugens, Duke of 
liOwer Lorraine (of which kingdom 
Brabant then formed a part) for the 
purpose of depositing within its 
walls the remains of his brother, 
who fell in action, opposing the 
!Normans on the banks of the Senne. 
The miraculous Virgin in this 
church has brought many votaries 
to it. The churchyard is considered 
as the " Pere le Chaise" of Brussels. 
The Palace was built in 1782 by the 
Archduke Albert of Saxony, who, 
under the Austrian dynasty, go- 
vierned the Low Countries, its 
situation is very fine, and affords a 
splendid view of Brussels and the 
environs. Napoleon bought this 



palace for the Empress Josephine. 
Within its walls the Emperor signed 
his declaration of war against Ki@<- 
sia. 

BRtJSSELS. 

Hotels. Belle-vue., in the Place 
E-oyale, conducted by Madame Proft. 

Europe. This tocffcel, although 
most unaccountably omitted in the 
last edition of Murray's handbook, 
is decidedly one of the best and 
most comfortable in Brussels ; good 
dinners, clean, well -furnished apart- 
ments, and reasonable charges. 
The house is pleasantly situated 
on the Place Koyale, the most 
fashionable part of Brussels, and 
one of the best for English trar 
vellers. 

Hotel de Flandre, Place Royal — 
H. Brittanigue, Place Royal — //". de 
France, Rue Royal— ^. desE (rangers, 
— H. du Saxe — H. de Suede, ^c. 

Brussels, the capital at once of 
the province and kingdom, is the 
seat of the Court and Government. 
It is built on the brow of a steep 
hill. The lower part of the city, 
which is quite distinct from the 
upper, stretches into the valley 
watered by the river Senne. The 
summit of the hill is crowned with 
spacious houses, public buildings, 
Boulevards and park. The popu- 
lation is estimated at 100,000 soiils. 

St Gudule. — This church (ot 
cathedral) is a fine and imposing 
Gothic structure, erected on the 
Molenberg (or hill of mills). 

The interior, though of a simple 
architecture, is striking in the ex- 
treme. The massive yet fine pil- 
lars which support the roof, are 
much admired; there is also a pro- 
fusion of painted glass. On a large 
bracket attached to each of these 
pillars stands the figure of our 
Saviour, the Virgin Mary, or one 
of the Apostles. The pulpit is 
carved in black oak. It was the 
work of Henry Verbruggen. In 
1766 Maria Theresa presented it to 



44 



EOUTE 9. — ^BRUSSELS. PAKT II. 



the cathedral. The subject repre- 
sented is the expulsion of Adam 
and Eve from Paradise by an angel 
of the Lord; on the left Death pur- 
sues them, while on the extreme 
summit is seen the Virgin Mary 
bruising the head of the serpent 
with a cross which she holds. The 
tabernacle contains a curious piece 
of mechanism, by which the Holy 
Sacrament is made to mount or 
descend in the hands of the offici- 
ating priest at pleasure. On the 
left is a superb monument erected 
by the Archduke Albert to the 
memory of John the second Duke 
of Brabant, and his wife Margaret 
of England. The tomb itself is of 
black marble ; on the top is placed 
a brass lion ; opposite this is that 
of the Archduke Ernest, who died 
in Brussels in 1595; the figure of 
this Prince, in full armour, lies upon 
the top. His motto " Soli Deo 
Oloria" serves as his inscription. 
On certain holidays the church is 
decked with tapestry, representing 
the miraculous manner in which 
the Sacred Host was saved from 
the hands of the sacrilegious 
Jews. 

The church of La Chapelle, for- 
merly a monastery, was founded 
in 1 140 by Godfrey le Barbu, and 
became a parish church in the year 
1210. The high altar designed by 
Rubens is of coloured marble. This 
great master painted a sumptuous 
altar piece, representing the As- 
sumption, for this church, which 
has been replaced by a copy. The 
pulpit represents the " Prophet 
Elias hid in a hollow under a rock, 
to avoid the pursuit of Jezabel, 
with an angel bringing hm food." 

The church of the Sablon (or our 
Lady of Victory) was built in 1288 
by Duke John the First, in comme- 
moration of the battle of Woerin- 
gen. Though not large, yet the 
interior of this building is much 
admired. The chapel of St Ursula 
is the burial place of the Princes of 



Tour and Taxis ; it is lined Avith 
black and white marble ; the statue 
of Virtue, represented as a female 
unrolling a chain, is considered very 
fine ; it is by Cosyns. There is also 
a figure of St Ursula. The poet 
Jean-Baptiste Rousseau, who died 
in 1741, lies buried here. 

St James fde CaudenbergJ is 
situated in the Place Royale facing 
the Montagne de la Cour. 

The Church of England service is 
performed at nine o'clock in the 
morning, and at half-past two in 
the afternoon, in the Chapel Royal, 
Rue du Musee, by the Rev. E. Jen- 
kins, M.A., chaplain to the King 
of the Belgians, and by the Rev, 
W. Drury, at a quarter to one and 
at half-past three in the afternoon, in 
the Chapel, Boulevard de I'Observa- 
toire, Porte de Schaerbeeck. 

In the numerous Catholic 
churches of the city mass is 
celebrated every day, from half- 
past three in the morning till 
noon, and at the cathedral as late 
as half-past twelve. The hour of 
the evening service varies accord- 
ing to the parish ; at the cathedral 
vespers commence at five o'clock 
with solemn music. 

There is an Evangelical chapel 
in the Rue Ducale, next door to the 
rooms of the Concert Noble. An 
infant school is attached to it. 

German Protestant service is 
performed every Sunday morning, 
previous to the English service, 
in the chapel in the Rue de Musee. 

There is also a chapel on the 
Boulevard de I'Observatoire, where 
French evangelical service is per- 
formed every Sunday morning and 
evening. 

The King's Palace. — This edifice 
is remarkalDle for its simplicity. It 
consists of two handsome wings^ 
between which a street formerly 
passed; they are now joined to- 
gether by a fine central piece, with 
a principal portico for entrance, 
supported by six Corinthian pillars, 



:bex.gtv:m. route 9. — Brussels. 



45 



of a single block of stone each. 
The length of the entire building 
is 120 metres (130 yards): a hand- 
some balcony extends the whole 
length; at the back it possesses a 
•well-laid out garden. The interior 
is more richly decorated and fur- 
nished than the plain exterior gives 
reason to expect. The articles are, 
generally speaking, all made in this 
country. Under the Erench rule 
the palace was the seat of Govern- 
ment for the department of the 
Dyle. It served as a residence for 
Napoleon and Josephine in 1803, 
and again for the Emperor and 
Maria Louisa in 1811. 

The National Palace, or Chamber 
of Representatives, was built accord- 
ing to the designs of Guimard during 
the reign of Maria Theresa, for the 
purpose of holding the ancient 
Legislative body of Brabant. In 
1815 it became the council chamber 
of the States General, and is now 
occupied by the Senate and the 
Chamber of Representatives. A 
triangular tablet, supported by 
eight highly -finished pillars, dis- 
plays some very fine bas-reliefs, 
executed by Godecharles. There 
is a lapse in the execution of some 
of the figures of sixty years, the 
original ones bearing date 1782, 
whereas somewhere destroyed by 
fire and only replaced in 1822. 
They represent Justice on her 
throne holding the scales, supported 
by Religion, Constancy, and Wis- 
dom, while Force is seen driving 
away Discord and Eanatacisra. The 
entrance hall is paved with marble, 
and the ceiling supported by pillars 
of the same. Marble stairs lead 
on either hand to the chambers. 
The senate hall is a plainly fur- 
nished room, boasting no ornaments 
save a large oval table, around 
which the senators sit and deli- 
berate. The Chamber of Repre- 
sentatives is built in a semi-circular 
form, similar to the Chamber of 
Deputies in Paris, with seats 



ranged like those* of an amphi- 
theatre; it is lighted from the top 
by a skylight, and surrounded by 
pillars, between which, at some feet 
above the members, are placed the 
galleries for the accommodation of 
reporters and strangers. The 
benches of the Representatives 
form a semicircle in front of the 
rostrum, and the seat of the Presi- 
dent. In the same street with this 
building (the Rue de la Loi) may 
be found the residences of all the 
ministers. 

The Palace of the Prince of 
Orange was formerly better worth 
seeing than any other edifice in 
Brussels. The objects of art it 
contained have been valued at 
nearly one million sterling; aU the 
beautiful gems have been removed. 

The Palace of Fine Arts was, 
under the Austrian government, 
the residence of the governor of 
the country. It was begun in 1346 
and finished in 1502, by order of 
the Count of Nassau Englebert. 
Prince Charles of Lorraine pur- 
chased it and embellished it in 
1744; the left wing and the side 
which looks on the gate were built 
in 1830 ; and are made use of as 
exhibiting halls for the public ex- 
position of industry, which takes 
place every four years. The an- 
cient part of the building contains 
the public Library, the Museum of 
Pictures, the Cabinet of Natural 
History, and one of Natural Philo- 
sophy. The Library is divided 
into two distinct classes; to the 
first, which contains 150,000 bound 
volumes, you ascend by a handsome 
staircase, at the foot of which is a 
gigantic figure of Hercules, consi- 
dered to be the chef-d'oeuvre of 
Delvaux. The other division of 
the Library consists of a collection 
of manuscripts, principally con- 
nected with the house of Burgundy. 
The whole number amounts to 
about 16,000; several of them are 
handsomely bound in red morocco, 



4^ 



SOUTE 9.— BKUiSSELS. PAJMP II. 



aad ornamented with initials ajid 
Tignettes, done in the time of Van 
Eyck. The Library is open every 
day from ten till two, except Wed- 
nesdays and fete days. The Museum 
contains about 350 pictures, of 
every time, of every school ; there 
are many of these styled "Gothic," 
that is to say, painted before the 
time of Van Eyck. The Museum 
is open to the public on Sundays; 
strangers may always be admitted; 
a printed catalogue to be had: fnom. 
the porter. >j,T\i Hi 

The Town Hall — This vast and 
curious edifice is situated in a large 
square, built during the time of the 
Spaniards, and displays a very pecu- 
liar and striking style of architec- 
ture. The town-hall itself is-'built 
in that of the school styled the 
" Lombardy-Gothic ;" it is sur- 
mounted by a splendid spire in 
fretwork, allowing the light to 
shine through it, quite to the top, 
and is supposed to be the most 
elegant object in Europe. It is 
344 feet high, and supports, on its 
apex a figure of St Michael in brass 
^t, seventeen feet in height, and of 
3IL immense weight, which turning 
with the wind, serves as a weather- 
cock. The most remarkable and 
striking defect— a defect which 
has given rise to many conjectures 
and legends —in this building, is the 
fact of the spire not being placed 
ia the centre of the edifice. The 
general belief is that it once crowned 
tlie gable of the town- hall, and 
that one of the wings has been sub- 
sequently added ; this is, however, 
a point still uncertain. 

The Mint, in the square of that 
name and facing the Royal Theatre, 
\ms founded in 1291 by John the 
Fifth, who was the first who intro- 
duced a native coinage in this coun- 
try called Golden Lions. The 
Exhange is held in a large hall 
belonging to a building immediately 
adjoining. 

The Royal Theatre. — The erec- 
tion of this theatre cost 1,400,000 



francs. The fitting up inside is de- 
cidedly good: though the height of 
the ceiling is too great m. propor^ 
tion to the size of the amphithea^ 
tre. Is open every night except 
Saturdays. 

PRICES OF ADMISSION. 

Premieres loges, balcon et stalles . 5 
Secondes, parquet, galeries et loge 

de rez-de-chaussee . . . 3 Sf)- 

Troisi^mes loges . . . . 3 1» 

Parquet militaire . . .2 0; 

Parterre (pit) et quatriemes loges . 1 60 

Para^js (gallery). . . . . 85 

The Theatre du Pare open every 
Saturday and Sunday evening, 

PRICES AT THE PARK THEATRE. 

fr. c. 
Premieres et parquet . , . 3 30 
Secondes ... . .30 

Troisiemes 2 15 

Parterre . . , • . 1 10 

Paradis . . . . .0 6^ 

The Observatory is a modern 
building ; it is situated on the high- 
est point of the boulevards ; the 
astronomical observations are an- 
nually pubhshed. 

The Botanical Gardens were only 
completed in 1830 ; they are 600 
metres (or 650 yards) long })j 169 
in breadth ; the soil slopes from 
east to west. These gardens be- 
long to the Horticultural Society, 
who occasionally have public exhi- 
bitions ; they are open gratuitously 
to the public every Tuesday, Thurs- 
day, and Saturday, ft(?m. ten till 
three. 

The Pare is situated between the 
parallels of the Bue Ducale and the 
Eue Royale ; bounded at one end 
by the Eue de la Loi and the Cham- 
ber of Representatives ; by the 
King's Palace at the other. 

There are several fine pieces of 
statuary, in good preservation, and 
a few antique ones in a somewhat 
dilapidated state, in different parts 
of this charming enclostu'e. 

Great attention is bestowed by 
the police to keep this place free 
from nuisances. The regulations 
are very strict as to walking on the 



BELGIUM. ROUTE 9. — BRUSSELS. 



47 



grass, or touching the plants or 
trees. It is, however, much to be 
regretted that dogs of every species, 
from the spaniel to the bull, are 
allowed to run loose through this 
garden, to the great terror of the 
hundreds of children who here seek 
amusement and recreation, as well 
as to the annoyance of the majority 
of the visitors to this delightful 
spot. During the summer, on fine 
Sundays, a military band plays 
from one till two o'clock. At this 
hour the gardens are crowded, and 
the luxury of dress, for which the 
Belgian ladies are celebrated, is par- 
ticularly indulged in. 

The principal Squares are the 
Palace Square, which lies between 
that building and the park. The 
Palace Royale, built in 1777, at 
the head of the Montague de la 
Cour. The Grand Place, in which 
is situated the Town-house. The 
Place de la Monnaie, more fre- 
quented than any otiier in Brussels, 
being the seat of the theatre, the 
exchange, the mint, and all the 
leading coffee-houses 'end clubs in 
the Belgian metropolis. There are 
three telegraphs established here, 
to convey commercial intelligence 
between the merchants of Brussels 
and Antwerp, carried on at their 
private expense ; they act accord- 
ing to the different systems of 
Chappe, Terrier, and Vanderecht. 
The Place du Grand Sablon, the 
largest square in the town, famous 
for a fine fountain in the centre, 
executed in white marble at the 
expense of Lord Aylesbury, who 
erected this monument as a testi- 
mony of his gratitude for the civi- 
lity he had received from the in- 
habitants, and the advantage he 
had derived from the salubrious air 
of Brussels. The Petit Sablon, 
Vii-hich is planted with trees ; one 
end is distinguished by the facade 
of the palace of the Duke d'Arem- 
berg. The Place St. Michael, now 
called the Place des Martyrs from 



the circumstance of its having been 
selected as the place of sepulchre for 
the victims who fell during the late 
revolution. The area is formed into 
sunken vaults containing the bodies 
of those who fell ; the centre is occu- 
pied by a fine pedestal, on which 
the statue of Liberty, executed in 
white marble by Geefsf is placed, 
while a funeral garden, with tombs 
at each end, and trees all round, 
give an air of grace to this inte- 
resting spot. The Place St. Gery, 
famous for having been the spot 
from which the present city sprung, 
together with a iew others of minor 
importance, are all the squares which 
are to be found in Brussels. 

Fountams. — At the corner of the 
Rue du Chene and the E,ue de 
I'Etuve stands the far-famed foun- 
tain known by the name of the 
" Manekin." A thousand vague 
reports as to its origin are in circu- 
lation ; a thousand strange super- 
stitions attached to it; the present 
bronze figure, which replaced the 
original statue in stone, was put up 
in 1648 : it is the work of the cele- 
brated Duquesnoy. The people of 
Brussels look upon this question- 
able little figue with reverence and 
regard, and consider the fate of the 
city in a manner mixed up with that 
of this indelicate little boy ; when he 
has been stolen, which has frequently 
been the case, it has been looked 
upon as a public calamity ; when he 
has been recovered and replaced 
in his niche, his re- appearance has 
been hailed with joy and commemo- 
rated by a fete. Several sovereigns 
have courted popularity by pre- 
senting him with court dresses, 
and military orders. The Elector 
of Bavaria gave him a handsome 
wardrobe, and appointed a valet de 
chambre to wait on him. Louis 
XV. made him a knight, and pre- 
sented him with a suit of uniform, 
a cocked hat and a sword. This 
little gentleman is dressed up 
during the Kermese of July. Since 



48 



ROUTE 9. — BRUSSELS. PART II. 



1830 he has chosen to wear the 
uniform of the Garde Civique. He 
possesses a positive revenue, which, 
though small, is regularly paid. 

The Passport Office is at the 
Hotel de Yille. Travellers should 
have the vise of the police, as well 
as that of ^e foreign ambassadors, 
should it have been neglected in 
London. Signatures are readily 
obtained without expense. 

The British Embassy is in the 
Quartier Leopold, in the immediate 
neighbourhood of the Bouvelard du 
Regent. New passports are ob- 
tained, or old ones vised, imme- 
diately, on application to** the 
porter. 

Residences of Ambassadors. 
Austrian, 'Rue d'Aremburg, No.51 
Bavarian, as above. 
Danish, Rue Verte, No. 3, bis. 
Spanish, Eue Ducale, No. 37. 
Roman States, Rue des Sablons, 
No. 9. 

France, Rue Royale Neuve, 29. 
Holland, Glacis de Waterloo, 125. 
Prussia, Rue Royale, 64. 

Post Office, in Rue de PEveque, 
is open from eight in the morning 
till seven in the evening for the de- 
livery of letters addressed post res- 
tante. The delivery in Brussels and 
its environs five times a day, at 
eight, nine, one, four, and half-past 
six. Letters are despatched for 
England every day except Friday; 
France, Germany, Holland^ every 
day; payment is optional. Paid 
letters must be sent to the chief 
office before half-past four. 

Letters for Austria, Italy, Po- 
land > and Turkey, must he pre- 
paid. 

According to the new regulations 
between England and Belgium, 
letters are forwarded and received 
six days in the week. 

The postage of a letter weighing 
under a quarter of an ounce is single 
postage of 25 sous, or one shilling. 



The Public Baths are situated — 
Montagne-aux Herbes-Potageres, 
No. 31 ; Rue des Alexiens (Bains 
St. George's); Place St. Gery, in 
the lower town, No. 2 ; Bains Leo- 
pold, Rue des Trois-Tetes. 

British Charitable Fund, esta- 
blished in 1815, for the purpose of 
forwarding to England distressed 
British subjects, and alfording re- 
lief to the aged and destitute. The 
fund is under the patronage of the 
King. The British ambassador is 
at the head of this excellent charity ; 
and the Rev. E. Jenkins, M.A., 
chaplain to the King of the Belgians, 
is the honorary secretary. 

Toddh Circulating Library is 
situated'in the Montague de la Cour, 
43, where will be found a great va- 
riety of English magazines, reviews, 
&c., with all the new novels as soon 
as published. The circulating library 
contains several thousand volumes, 
which are lent out to read to sub- 
scribers. 

The news room formerly kept by 
Brown has been discontinued, but 
strangers desirous of seeing the 
English Journals, will find several 
morning and evening London papers 
.in the office of the General Steam 
Navigation Company, 92, Montague 
de la Cour, most liberally provided, 
for the gratuitous use of travellers 
and others visiting or residing in 
Brussels. 

English Bankers. — A respectable 
English bank (long much wanted), 
has been established here. The firm 
is that of Messrs. N. A. Reynolds 
and Co., No. 77, Montague de la 
Cour, within a few doors of the 
Place Royale. This house has ex- 
tensive continental connexions, and 
grants letters of credit on all the 
principal towns of Europe, and also 
on the three presidencies of India. 

Mr. Yates, 80, Montague de la 
Cour vnll be found a highly respect- 
able and very trustworthy tradesman, 



BELGIUM. ROUTE 9. — BRUSSELS. 



49 



by those requiring English or Foreign 
money exchanged. 

Travellers wishing to make pur- 
chases in Brussels, are with confi- 
dence recommended to the following 
tradesmen : 

Bookseller, M. Muquardt, in the 
Place Royale, has an extensive and 
well- selected assortment of books 
in every language, besides a great 
variety of guide-books, maps, pa- 
noramas, and interpreters. 

N.B. Travellers should be par- 
ticularly on their guard againsD 
purchasing pirated editions of Eng- 
lish works, more particularly Guide- 
books, which are re-printed in 
Brussels and Paris. A pirated edi- 
tion of this Hand-book has just been 
printed in Brussels^ with English 
type, from an old edition ; the name 
on the title is Kiessling, 

English Grocer and Wine Mer- 
chant, S. Yates, No. 80, Montague 
de la Cour. 

Tailor, Mr. Jenart, Place Koyale, 
is decidedly the first artist in Brus- 
sels for fit, material, punctuality, 
and reasonable charges. 

Bootmaker, Schott, No, 41, Mon- 
tague dela Cour. 

Brussels Lace Manufactory. — 
The establishment of M. Vanderkelen 
Bresson, Eue du Marquis, No. 1, is 
worth)* a visit. Here may be seen 
the process of making the Valen- 
ciennes, Lille, and Mechlin, as well 
as the Brussels lace. To make this 
celebrated and now indispensable 
article of dress (so say the ladies) a 
quarter of a Flemish ell wide, will 
require 1,300 threads, and occupy 
one female eight months to produce 
a single ell; "Valenciennes lace one 
inch wide will require the labour of a 
pair of hands one month. The dif- 
ference in the material and price is 
remarkable, varying from 3 frs. to 
700 frs. the Flemish ell, not more 
than two inches wide. 

Madame Bresson speaks English, 
and is alv/ays happy to show stran- 



gers every attention, and a free in- 
spection of her establishment, which 
is really interestirg. 

The Ville de Bruxelles, Marche 
aux Herbes, for fancy cravats, 
handkerchiefs, shirts, and various 
fancy articles of dress for both ladies 
and gentlemen. 

Hosiery, Gloves, Bfc. Coquiilon, 
G& Marche aux Herbes. 

For Embroidery, such as collars, 
pelerines, &c., Madame Plet, No. 52, 
Kue de la Madeleine, is well spoken 
of by the ladies. 

Watchmaker, M. Plet, No. 52, 
E,ue de la Madeleine. All his 
watches are marked with the lowest 
price on them. 

Hatter, Victor Henne, Rue de la 
Montague. 

Furs. M. A. Diewan, No. 13, 
Plaine St. Gudule (opposite the ca- 
thedral). 

HACKNEY COACH FARE. 

within the gates. 
From 7 A.M. till 9 p.m. 

1 horse. 2 horses. 
For every course . . 1 fr. 0—1 fr. 50 
First hour , . . . 1 „ 50—2 „ 50 
Every following hour 1 ,, — 1 ,, 50 

From 6 p.m. till 12. 

Course 1 ,, 50—3 ,, 

Fh'Sthour 2 „ 0—0 ,, 50 

Every following hour . . 1 „ 50—0 ,, 
From 12 at night till a.m. thefares are 
nearly double. 

When taken by time, the coach- 
man has a right to demand the 
hire of a full hour, if that hour be 
broken in upon. 

Fares to a greater distance, or 
carriages employed in such service 
after nightfall, must be regulated 
by a specific agreement between 
the driver and the person hiring the 
hackney carriage. 

Om?iibuses attend the arrival of 
the railway trains to convey tra- 
vellers to the hotels. Fare, 50 e. 

D 



ROUTE 9. — WATERLOO. PART II. 



Railway Trains. 



FROM BRUXELLES. 





IstCl 


2dCl 


3dCl. 


Malines . . . . 


1 50 


1 25 


75 


Anvers . . . . 


3 25 


2 50 


1 50 


Termonde . . . 


3 


2 25 


1 25 


Gand . . . . . 


4 75 


3 60 


2 25 


Bruges 


7 75 


6 


3 75 


Ostend 


9 25 


7 


4 50 


Courtrai . . . • 


7 75 


6 


3 75 


Touraay . . . . 


9 


7 


4 50 


Louvain . . . . 


2 75 


2 


1 25 


Tiiiemont . . . 


4 25 


3 25 


2 


St. Trond .... 


6 25 


4 50 


3 


Liege ..... 


8 


6 25 


4 


Verviers .... 


iO 


8 


5 


Aix-la-Chapelle . 


13 


lO 




Cologne .... 


20 50 


15 50 


10 25 


Paris ..... 


3S 50 


29 





EXCURSION TO WATERLOO. 

10 English miles. 

Excursions to the field of Water- 
loo may be made with either a car- 
riage or a saddle horse; the former, 
capable of containing four persons 
inside and one on the box, will cost 
25 frs., the latter 10 fr?. There are 
always persons staying at the hotels 
willing to join in the expense of 
a carnage ; a hackney-coach off 
the stand will cost less, but the 
horses are not so good, and fre- 
quent attempts at imposition, such 
as setting you down at the village 
of Waterloo instead of Mont St. 
Jean, are often made. For the 
above-named sum (25 frs.) the pro- 
prietor of the hotel will furnish a 
carriage including coachman and 
barriers; the distance is ten miles; 
time required for the excursion, about 
six hours. 

The road to it is through the 
forest of Soignies. The view of 
Brussels, a little before the entrance 
of the forest, is deservedly admired ; 
but after this nothing but a tangled 
impervious wood presents itself for 
eight miles, occasionally relieved 
by a few scattered hamlets. The 
traveller emerges from the forest at 



the village of Waterloo, where per- 
haps he will pause a moment, to 
read the simple tablets in the little 
church, the affectionate tribute of 
their surviving companions to the 
memory of a few of those " who 
gloriously fell in the battles of 
Quartre Bras and Waterloo." Here 
also he may see the house where the 
Marquis of Anglesea suffered ampu- 
tation. In the garden is a monument 
erected over the spot where his leg 
was buried. 

More than a mile from Waterloo 
is the hamlet of Mont St. Jean, 
containing nothing remarkable to 
attract the attention of the stranger. 
At this place the road is divided. 
The branch on the left conducts to 
Genappe, and that on the right, to 
Nivelles. Half a mile in advance 
of the village is the farm-house of 
Mont St. Jean, on the road to the 
farm of La Haye Sainte, and in the 
immediate rear of the British posi- 
tion. 

Pursuing the road to Genappe, 
and passing by the farm of Mont 
St. Jean, the forest disappears 
and the road suddenly rises, and 
an easy ascent leads to a kind of 
ridge. ' This ridge and the ground 
behind it were occupied by the Bri- 
tish Army. 

The corn again waves over the 
fields that were so deeply dyed with , 
blood, and almost all the dreadful 
traces of slaughter have ceased to 
appear. Sufficient objects, however, 
remain, to enable the tourist to 
form a correct idea of the positions 
of the contending armies, and the 
very places on which most of those 
heroic deeds were performed, that 
will ever be emblazoned on the re- 
cords of fame. These landmarks 
will enable the visitor easily to follow 
the historian in his description of 
this glorious and decisive battle. A 
detailed account of the transactions 
of this well-fought day would suit 
neither the plan nor the limits of the 
present work ; but the following hints, 



BELGIUM. ROUTE 10. — NAMUR. 



51 



with the assistance of one of the 
loquacious guides, will enable the 
visitor to recognise ihe most inte- 
resting situations of the field. 

On the top of the ridge formerly 
a solitary tree raised its straggling 
branches.* This was the centre of 
the British position, and as the Duke 
of Wellington was posted on this 
spot during the greater part of the 
day, it is immortalized by the name 
of the Wellington tree. 

The British lines extended along 
this ridge to the right and left, de- 
fended on the left by a hedge which 
stretches from Mont St. Jean 
towards Ohain. On the extreme 
right, following the natural direction 
of the ridge, they turned back 
towards Brussels, and were protected 
by a ravine. In front is a little 
valley, not regularly formed, but 
with numerous gentle windings and 
hollows. It varies in breadth from 
a quarter to half a mile. This was 
the scene of the murderous conflict. 
The opposite ridges, and running 
parallel to Mont St. Jean, were oc- 
cupied by the French. 

A little in front of the tree, and 
close by the road, is La Haye Sainte, 
the object of the second desperate 
attack in the middle of the battle. 
The back part of the building was 
much shattered by the cannon and 
musket balls, and the interior wit- 
nessed the most dreadful carnage. 
Near this farm likewise took place 
the conflict between the Imperial 
Guards and the British, which de- 
cided the fate of the day. 

To the right, and in the centre of 
the valley, is the Chateau de Goumont 
(called Hougomont inthe despatches). 

On the left is the farm of Ter-la- 
Hay, where the ground, becoming 
woody and irregular, presented a 
strong position for the termination of 
the British lines. 

Pursuing .the road to Chaileroi, 



and on the ridge exactly opposite to 
the British centre, is La Belle 
Alliance, an inn of the humbler kind. 
It was the position of Bonaparte 
during the greater part of the en- 
gagement, until he advanced to a 
kind of sand-bank, when he headed 
the last charge. 

Between La Belle Alliance and La 
Haye Sainte are two monuments ; 
one to the memory of Sir A. Gordon, 
and the other to some officers of the 
German Legion, who fell in the 
battle of Waterloo. 

Lion Moimd. — This is a vast ac- 
cumulation of earth, beneath which 
lie indiscriminately heaped together 
the bones of the slain, friend -^ and 
foes ; a flight of rude steps leads to 
the top, from whence an extensive 
view is obtained. 

Guides real and pretended accost 
you at every step, and relic vendors, 
well provided with old buttons, 
swords, pieces of brass, &c., offer 
their wares at a price which leads 
one to suppose they were manu- 
factured for the purpose. 

EOUTE 10. 

RAILROAD. 

Brussels to Namur seventy Eng- 
lish miles. Trains leave Brussels 
for Namur twice a day ; fare, first 
class, 6f. 50c. ; second class, 5f. ; 
luggage, 100 kil., 5f. 10c. Time, 
three hours thirty minutes. 

NAMUR. 

Inns. Harscamp Hotel Flanders. 
Population 20,000. This old town is 
seated in a valley between two lofty 
mountains at the conflux of the 
SamberandMeuse. These mountains 
afford some romantic and delightful 
views of both rivers and the sur- 
rounding country. 



* This tree has been removed by order of the Duke of Wellington, and converted 
into several articles of household furniture to adorn Waterloo hall at Apsley 
House. 



52 



ROUTE 11. HUY. PART II. 



The citadel is on the summit of 
one of these craggy rocks, and nearly 
impregnable. Many of the fortifi- 
cations were hewn out of the solid 
rock. The emperor Joseph, suspi- 
cious of the loyalty of the Flemings, 
destroyed many of the bastions, and 
the others were demolished by the 
French. The modern fortifications 
have been erected since 1814. 

The cathedral is a beautiful spe- 
cimen of modern architecture, of the 
Corinthian order. The portico is 
supported by twenty-five columns, 
with richly ornamented chapiters. 

The Jesuits' or St. Loup's Church, 
is yet a fine specimen of ancient 
architecture. The nave is sustained 
by twelve red marble columns of the 
Ionic order, and every part of the 
edifice presents a profusion of well 
executed and becoming ornaments. 

There is a collection of Belgian 
marbles in the Museum. 

The principal commerce is in fire- 
arms, cutlery, iron and lead. Many 
iron mines in the neighbourhood em- 
ploy a great part of the population. 
The rivers abound with carp, trout, 
salmon, and a species of cray-fish, 
so delicious that they are sent to the 
most distant provinces. The streets 
of Namur are wide and clean. The 
houses are built of a blue stone with 
red and black veins, and present a 
whimsical, but not unpleasing appear- 
ance. The quarries in the neighbour- 
hood are inexhaustible, and rival the 
^nest marble. The black marble dug 
here is used by the Italian sculptors 
for their noblest productions. 

A singular custom used to exist at 
Namur, and is not yet quite discon- 
tinued. The young men of the oJri 
and new towns assemble, mountco 
on stilts, and forming tnemsei-ves 
into battalions, each under the com- 
mand of its captain, drew up in 
battle array, in the square of the 
town-house. At the sound of martial 
music, the partisans of the respective 
towns rushed on each other, and 
usinsr their elbows and feet with 



incredible agility and violence, en- 
deavoured to drive their opponents 
from the field of battle. The wives 
and mistresses of the contending 
parties were arranged on each side 
the square, and entering fully into 
the spirit of the combat, animated 
the warriors to exert their utmost 
strength and skill. The battle some- 
times raged during several honrs, 
before either party would yield the 
palm of victory. 

Peter the Great was a delighted 
spectator of this strange conflict of 
giants. Marshal Saxe was fre- 
quently present at an exhibition 
which almost realized the furious 
and obstinate contest of disciplined 
armies ; and it afforded so much 
pleasure to Duke Albert, that, on 
this account, he exempted the brew- 
eries of Namur from the payment of 
excise. 

ROUTE 11. 

NAMUR TO LIEGE. 

Forty-four miles. 

Small steamers descend the Meuse 
twice every day in summer to Liege 
in five hours, fare 5f. ; there are 
also row boats, which may be hired 
reasonably for a party. The scenery,, 
particularly between Nanjur and 
Huy, is of a grand and romantic 
character. 



HUY. 

Hotel The Post. 

TTiiy is romantically situated and 
enclosed by lofty mountains. It is a 
very ancient town and mentioned in 
the Itinerary of Antonius. It has 
many paper mills and iron foundries. 

Toys of all kinds, straw hats, tin 
and iron utensils, excellent and 
cheap, are manufactured here. Con- 
siderable quantities of flag- stones, 



BELGIUM. ROUTE 11. — LIEGE. 



53 



Trhetstones, and limestones, are dug 
near Huy. 

The population scarcely amounts 
to 7,000 souls, yet Huy contains 
no less than sixteen churches, and 
formerly eighteen convents. In no 
other town of the Netherlands were 
the clergy so numerous. 

The ancient castle, so celebrated 
in former times, has been, as well 
as that of Namur, recently fortified. 
Strangers are permitted to visit the 
fortifications. 

Near Liege is Saraing, the exten- 
sive manufactory of the late Mr, 
Cockeriil, but cannot be seen except 
by persons specially introduced. Ap- 
plication should then be made to the 
office at Liege. 

The vineyards which in the neigh- 
bourhood of Liege clothe the summit 
of every hill, and the hop-gardens 
that occupy the lower grounds, have 
a pleasing effect. The river is 
closely shut in by rocts, not so ele- 
vated as those on the Rhine, or on 
the river Avon at Clifton, but suffi- 
ciently lofty often to give the scenery 
a wild and romantic appearance. In 
many parts where the hills gently 
slope down to the brink of the river, 
and are covered with wood or 
pleasure grounds, the tourist is re- 
minded of the pleasing views on the 
Wye. 

LIEGE. 

Hotels. jD^Afig/eterre, a, comfort- 
able, reasonable house, with good 
attendance and good beds. There 
are two tables d'hote, at one and 
four o'clock ; the charge at the 
former is two francs, at the latter 
three francs; 'plain breakfast one 
franc, beds two francs, 

H. Pommelette. This house is 
now as quiet as it formerly was 
noisy; being adjoining the coach 
office, bustle, bustle, was the order 
of the day (and night). The pro- 
prietor has marched with the times, 
and instead of bewailing the loss of 



coach passengers, has set his house 
in complete order for the reception 
of railway customers. An elegant 
and convenient omnibus, built ex- 
clusively for this house, regularly 
attends the amval of the trains. 

Hotels de la Europe, Sivede, and 
Belle Vice, new. 

On the arrival of the trains at 
Liege (indeed I may say it is uni- 
versally adopted on the continent), 
a barrier is formed round the space 
allotted to the luggage. Here you 
take your stand, and await the 
calling out of the number affixed to 
your different coffers. When your 
number is called, answer immedi- 
ately, by "ici," in Belgium, and 
"here," in Germany, and your 
package will be deposited before 
you. In this way you continue till 
your several packages have been 
delivered to you from the luggage - 
van. It is then put on a wheel- 
barrow and taken to one of the 
omnibuses in waiting outside the 
gate, or to a private hack carriage, 
as you may require. Previous to 
the luggage being wheeled out of 
the gate, the officers demand your 
ticket, to see that you have not 
made free with the luggage belong- 
ing to another, as the different 
parcels belonging to one party, 
weighed at the same time in one 
lot, will have the same number. 

The fare, by omnibus, from the 
station to any one of the hotels in 
Liege, is half a franc, and a trifle for 
luggage. 

Liege, chief town of the province 
of Liege, is situated on the union of 
the Meuse and Ourtbe, in the mid- 
dle of a plain, surrounded by moun- 
tains, eighteen leagues S. E. of 
Brussels, and ten leagues S. W. 
from Aix-la-Chapelle. Its population 
is 62,000. 

Most of the streets of the old 
town are narrow, dirty, and ill 
built; but in the new division, the 
plan of which is large, the houses 
are handsome, well and regularly 



64 



ROUTE 11. — LIEGE. PART II. 



built. There are two bridges here 
over the Meuse, the oldest of which 
is the Bridge of Arches. Its length 
is 145 yardSj its width fifteen ; it 
has six arches. 

The Ourthe throws itself in the 
Meuse before Liege, and divides 
the canton or quarter of Outre- 
Meuse into several Islands, joined 
by a great number of bridges, the 
most remarkable of which is that 
of Amercoeur, standing in the 
direction of Verviers to Aix-la- 
Chapelle. 

Com7nerce and Industry. — The 
navigation of the Meuse, by afford- 
ing an easy communication with 
France and Holland, secures to Liege 
a certainty of exportation. The 
establishment of the railroad from 
Ostend and Antwerp to the frontier 
of Prussia cannot fail daily to 
augment its prosperity. Industry 
flourishes in Liege ; it consists 
chiefly in the working of manufac- 
tories and forges, of which there 
are many. The arms which are 
manufactured at Liege are not of 
such a fine finish or superior qua- 
lity as those of the French gun- 
smiths, but they have greatly the 
advantage in point of cheapness. 
The manufactories of worsted and 
silk are much esteemed; but it is 
the construction of steam-engines 
and ir,echariism which every day 
improves. At Liege there is a 
cannon foundry ; also one for zinc, 
the only one in the country. Liege 
was the birth-place of Gretry, the 
composer, and Gerard de Lairesse, 
the painter. 

Cathedral Church of St. Paul. — 
This church has only borne the name 
of cathedral since 1793; previous to 
that period the cathedral dedicated 
to St. Lambert stood in the fine 
square of that name. The top of 
the vane, being of the exact height 
of the fort, formed a horizontal 
line. Statues, in gold and silver, 
ornamented its numerous chapels. 
Kound the choir, enclosed by a 



magnificent gift bulustrade, were 
the tombs of the ecclesiastic princes 
of Liege, forming a sculptured 
history of the town. The present 
cathedral is a fine church, though 
wanting a principal entrance. The 
date of the completion of this 
church is to be seen on a medallion 
in the middle of the roof: they 
were still working at it in the 
middle of the sixteenth century. 
There are some good pictures by 
Liege artists. The cathedral of 
Liege is highly decorated ; the 
gate of the choir, in polished brass, 
is a fine piece of workmanship. 
There are now no painted windows, 
the lead which encased the glass 
was used for bullets, The church 
was, daring some time, a public 
market. 

The Church of St. Jacques is 
the wonder of Liege. Travellers 
may see finer, but it is doubtful if 
there exists a more elegant church. 
The architecture is Gothic, with 
all the minute Arabian art from 
which it springs. The foundation 
of the church of St. Jacques dates 
from the year 1014, under Henry 
II. Emperor of Germany. It was, 
in the first instance, a convent of 
monks, in the midst of the forests 
of Liege. To the convent succeed- 
ed an abbey, the church of which 
is St. Jacques. The portrait of 
the founder, on a black marble 
slab, is placed against the side of 
one of the chapels in the right hand 
gallery. It is a fine head of an 
abbot, with the crosier and eccle- 
siastical habit. Words are inade- 
quate to describe the vast aisle, so 
light, yet so majestic, through 
which the anthems have a piercing 
as well as joyful effect. The 
vaulted roof, finished about the 
same time as the cathedral, seems 
hidden under a netting of fine 
fish-bones, which cross and recross 
each other with admirable symme- 
try, twining round medallions on 
which are painted heads, some bare, 



belgixtm; route 11, — liege. 



55 



•Bomft with helmets of the six- 
teenth century. The roof itself 
appears like an immense cradle of 
wicker-work, each crossing of the 
stone trellis presenting an antique 
cameo, while, through the opening, 
the sky is represented by blue 
frescoes, which fill the vacant part 
of the arch. This net work gradu- 
ally rounds itself down till it joins 
the light walls, which are lighted 
by immense windows, supported by 
two galleries, on ribbed arches. 
The profiles of these ribs are like 
embroidery. An elegant festoon 
rises from the bottom of the arches 
to their top, and thence throws 
itself on to the wall, up which it 
-runs and winds about like a basso- 
relievo. In the vacant space be- 
tween the tops of the arches are 
represented, on medallions, the 
portraits of kings, princesses, pro- 
phets, and prophetesses, with their 
names, and the verses from the 
scriptures opposite to them, form, 
on each side of the nave, a 
running inscription, written in 
Gothic characters. The same dis- 
tribution of arches and ornamented 
graining is repeated on the outside 
wall. 

The superb organ displays on 
€ach side rich elaborately-gilt pa- 
nels, the inside of which are painted. 
These panels, shut on ordinary 
days, preserve the organ from dust ; 
the inscriptions placed here mark 
the date of the completion of the 
church as 1538. A double geome- 
trical staircase leads to a small tri- 
bune, from whence there is a view 
over the whole choir. The guide 
praises this staircase as having puz- 
zled the cleverest masons. It is a 
staircase which follows you as you 
go up ; it is two screws turning 
xiiiferent ways : but by what means 
are they joined ? There is the 
mystery. 

There are a great many other 
churches in Liege, none of which 
are deserving any particular notice. 



Le Palais, built in 1508. Mar- 
guerite de Navarre, the wife of 
Henry IV., who lodged here in 
1577, says, in her memoirs, that she 
could not find words to express her 
surprise " at the sight of this most 
magnificent palace, with its fine 
fountains, many gardens and gal- 
leries, the whole gilt and decorated 
with marble to such a degree that 
nothing could be more splendid or 
beautiful." The ancient palace con- 
tains at present the hall of justice, 
the archives, and the prison. 

The Hotel de Yilie, or Town-hall, 
is on the large market place. The 
first stone of the present building 
was laid in 1714. It is a regular 
building, being a perfect square, 
isolated on every side. The front 
has a Sight of steps decorated with 
elegant columns. In the square of 
the Hotel de Ville, or Market place, 
are three fine fountains, the most 
remarkable of which, placed between 
the two othei-s, is the work of 
Delcour of Liege. 

The University (created by a 
royal decree of the 2oth September, 
1816) is a building en the banks of 
the Meuse, built on the ruins of the 
church of the Jesuits. The collec- 
tions of the university ra*ay be con- 
sidered as the finest in the country. 
La Bibliotheque picblique, or public 
library, is composed of 75,000 
volumes and about 600 very valua- 
ble manuscripts, brought from the 
abbeys suppressed in the province 
for the greater part in the eleventh, 
twelfth, and thirteenth centuries. 
The Cabinet of Anatomy contains 
above 100 skeletons. The Cabinet 
of Zoology -possesses 168 species of 
mammifera, 826 kinds of birds, 
2,000 shells, 7 to 8,000 insects, 2 or 
3,000 petrefactions and fossil bones. 
The Cabinet of Minerals, classed 
after the plan of Haiiy, is composed 
of about 2,400 specimens. The 
Botanical Garden contains valuable 
plants, though confined in a small 
space. The collection devoted to 



56 



ROUTE 12. — LONDON TO OSTEND. PART II, 



the study of the physiology and 
anatomy of plants deserves par- 
ticular attention, being the only one 
of the kind in Europe; the esta- 
blishment consists of forty-six pro- 
fessors ; the number of pupils who 
attend the academy varies from 400 
to 500. 

The Theatre Royal was built in 
1818, on the site of the church of 
the Dominicans ; Mdlle. Mars laid 
the first stone, on the 1st of July, 
in that year : it was finished in 
1822. This isolated building is 
surrounded by arcades that support 
a vaulted gallery. The interior is 
dirty. The Liegeois are, however, 
very fond of plays, and their dra- 
matic company is generally one of 
the best in the country. The The- 
atre des yar/efe*, behind the church 
of St. Jacques, is used for amateur 
performances and concerts. Liege 
possesses besides a conservatoire of 
music, a drawing academy, a deaf 
and dumb institution, and many 
charitable establishments. 

The Citadel. — The first founda- 
tions were begun by Renry de 
Gueldres, in 1255, on the heights of 
St.'Waiburge,whenee they descended 
to the town by a drawbridge and 
staircase. In 1650 the Bishop Maxi- 
railieii de Baviere erected another 
fort on the mountain of St. Wal- 
burge. It was taken by the French 
on the 28th March, 1675, who blew 
up the fortifications. Being rebuilt 
some time after, it was again taken 
by the French, and afterwards by 
the Duke of Marlborough in 1702. 
B}"" the treaty of Bavaria, in 1715, 
the outer fortifications were ordered 
to be demolished, and were only i*e- 
established in 1820. It is customary 
to go up to the citadel to enjoy the 
nanorama of Liege and the Meuse. 
On the right bank is the Chartreuse^ 
another fort, a quarter of a league 
from the town. 

Coffee Houses and Restaurants. — 
Caf6 des Deux Fountaines. Haute 
Sauveniere. De la Renaissance, 
Lemonnier's passage. 



Hackney Coaches, — Fares of vigi- 
lantes for a drive with one horse, 
50 centimes, with two horses, one 
franc. 

In the environs of Liege are num- 
berless interesting and picturesque 
sites to which strangers should re- 
sort. Not to mention Spa^ whose 
waters and beautiful sites have 
such a renown that every year it 
is filled with travellers from all 
parts of Europe, I recommend the 
various establishments of industry 
that surround the town : the Val 
St.Be?ioit, Sclesshi) Tilleur, Oiigree, 
and particularly Seraing, founded 
by the late Mr. Cockerill ; the plea- 
sant valley of the p'esdre, Chaud- 
fountains and its hot tvaters^ most 
frequented by the inhabitants of 
Liege ; the delightful villages Qum" 
campoix, Jupiile Herstal, the birth- 
place of the King of France, Pepin 
le Gros, or Pepin d-* Heristal ; Argen- 
teau and its castle , the newly-dis- 
covered grotto of Tilf, &c. 

EOUTE 12. 

LONDON TO OSTEND BY THE 
RIVER. 

Steam Packets from Blackwall 
every Wednesday and Saturday 
mornings. The time of departure is 
regulated according to the tide 
in Ostend harbour. Should the 
packet miss it, the passengers 
must remain on board for several 
hours. 



FARES FROM LONDON. 



£ s. 

1 10 

1 5 
4 4 

2 2 
4 4 




Chief Cabin 

Fore Cabin 

Four Wheel Carriages 

Two Wheel ditto . 

Horses .... 

Dogs, each ... 

For description of the Thames, 
price of provisions on board, see 
Boute 1, page 1. 

LONDON TO OSTEND BY DOVER. 

Railway trains leave the termi- 
nus, London bridge, for Dover, nine 
times a day in S^]- hours. 



LONDON TO OSTEND. — ROUTE 12. 



57 



FARES. 



Espress 

First class carriages . 
Second class do. 
TMrd class do. , 
Carriages, four wheels 
Ditto two do. . 

Horses, each. 



£ s. 

1 
16 
12 

7 

2 9 

1 13 
1 13 



The Belgian Blail Packets leave 
Dover for Ostend six times a week, 
on Tuesdays, Vv'ednesdays, Thurs- 
days, Fridays, Saturdays, and Sun- 
days ; the Steam packets in con- 
nexion with the railway leave twice 
a week, Thursday and Sunday. 

FARES. 

£ s. a. 
After Cabin and deck . . 15 

Fore Cabin 10 

Deck 8 

LONDON TO OSTEND BY WAY OF 
RAMSGATE. 

Steam packets belonging to the 
South Eastern E,ailwayCompany,run 
regularly twice a v/eek each way be- 
tween B-amsgate and Ostend, landing 
and embarking from the pier at each 
side. The voyage is rather longer 
than from Dover, taking from 4f to 
o\ hours. 

FARES. 
Chief Cabin . . . . o 15 
Fore Cabin . . . . 10 

Carriages, four wheels . .330 
Ditto two ditto . . 1 ll 6 

Children half fares. 

Fares by V^ailway from London to 
Ra?nsgate, 

Espress 22 6 

Fii'st Class 18 

Second Class , . . . 13 6 
Third do 8 6 

OSTEND. 

Inns. Hotel de Bains, a large 
establishment, usually patronised 
by royal personages and families 
ot" distinction. The charges are not 
so high as the public have been led 
to believe. 

Hotel de AUemagne. A very ex- 
cellent house, near the railway sta- 
tion. 

Hotel de Flatidre, a very comfort- 
able house situated near the Grande 
Place and the new communication 

ridge leading to the sea side 5 the 



proprietor (Mr. Fontaine) is remark- 
able for civility, attention, and 
moderate charges. 

Cour Imperial^ Royale, Ship, and 
Lion d'Or. 

Principal Agent for the General 
Steam Navigation Company at Os- 
tend is Mr. E.. St. Amour, who under- 
takes to forward goods (directed to 
his cave) to any part of the world. 

Osteiid. — This seaport and forti- 
fied town, containing 15,000 inhabi- 
tants, possesses nothing to interest 
the stranger, and the ft-equent de- 
parture of the trains for Brussels, 
Aix-la-Chapelle, and Cologne, will 
enable him to proceed almost im- 
mediately after receiving his luggage 
from the Custom house, and the vise 
of the police to his passport. Both 
offices are near the place of disem- 
barkation, and every facility is given 
by the authorities to enable the 
traveller to proceed. Ostend is much 
frequented during the summer as a 
bathing place. The ramparts form 
an agreeable promenade. There are 
three churches, a town-hall, and a 
cassiuo in which may be seen the 
English and other newspapers, and 
to which strangers introduced by a 
member are admitted. 

Exchanging Money. — On landing 
on the continent, our countrymen 
are apt immediately to convert what 
British money they have about them 
into foreign coin. "We recommend 
them invariably to effect this 
through a respectable banker. In 
this town are established two or three 
banks, whose business transactions 
are chiefly confined to the bartering 
of "filthy lucre." These, like all 
other things, differ in character, and 
the traveller should take care, in 
making his exchange, to get as 
nearly as may be " value received." 

It is only within a few years 
that Ostend has become a place 
of residence for English families 
throughout the year, for although 
it has long been popular as a water- 
ing place, in winter it was com- 
pletely deserted by all our country- 



S8 



ROUTE 12.— OSTEND. PAET II. 



men, save a few straggling mer- 
cliaitits, and others connected with 
the shipping. Formerly the clergy- 
man and the consul managed to 
spend one half of the dreary months 
between October and May in talk- 
ing over the pleasures of the past 
season, and the other half in build- 
ing hopes on the coming glories of 
the approachirg summer. The 
waves washed over the magnificent 
Bigue unheeded, the wind blew 
down the long streets miopposed by 
a single passenger ; few shopkeepers 
took the trouble of displaying new 
goods ; the very commissionaires 
scarcely cared to go down to await 
the arrival of the packets. The face, 
however, of this state of society is 
now changed ; several highly re- 
spectable English families have here 
taken houses by the year, form- 
ing a very pleasant winter coterie, 
and enjoy amongst themselves a 
sociability which, I have reason to 
believe, they infinitely prefer to the 
bastle of their summer gaieties. 
The two great bars to persons thus 
settling, are the difficulty of ob- 
taining a comfortable house, and 
the impossibility of hiring furniture. 
Many of our countrymen would, I 
am convinced, like to try the place, 
could they do so for a year, but to 
be compelled to take a mansion on 
lease, and to purchase furniture, 
goes sadly against the grain of an 
Englishman, who naturally repu- 
diates the idea of thus binding him- 
self down to reside for a long period 
in a foreign country. House rent 
is also far too high. It is difficult 
to get a moderately good house un- 
der 40/. a year, a sum which old 
residents on the continent consider 
extremely exorbitant. It is true, 
that in winter you can get as many, 
and as good lodgings as you like 
for a mere bagatelle, but then you 
must make up your mind, that the 
instant summer approaches, you 
must turn out, or consent to pay at 
least four times as much as you 



have given during the dull season. 
Every year the exorbitant demands 
of the lodging-house keepers of 
Ostend increase. These high prices, 
however, will ultimately drive the 
visitors into the necessity of re- 
maining in hotels, which after all, I 
believe, are the cheapest residences 
in summer. 

Ostend, like many foreign coun- 
try towns, has a host of local laws 
which annoy the English resident, 
and with which he should see that 
his household is acquainted. For 
instance, at a certain hour a bell 
rings, and every servant must sweep 
down the gutter in front of his 
master's ho^se ; an old inhabitant 
on hearing this sound instantly 
goes home, or flies to the Digue : 
the stench in the town is then in- 
tolerable. At a particular hour at 
night the pest carts (for I can call 
these vile manure waggons by no 
more appropriate name) begin to 
circulate. By law they must be 
preceded by a lanthorn. One ac- 
quainted with this custom instantly 
leaves the street down which he 
sees the light coming : if he re- 
mains, he will nearly be suffocated 
by the natural eiSuvia. Like all 
places fortes^ Ostend closes her gates 
at a certain hour ; always ascertain 
the exact time of this operation, for 
if you are later in coming in, or 
going out, you not only must pay, 
but often suffer a long detention. 

The only piece of turf in or near 
Ostend covers the ramparts. On 
these you are not allowed to walk, 
why or wherefore it would be difii- 
cult to divine, for although the 
garrison is weak, and consequently 
the sentinels few in number, yet I 
doubt very much whether any one 
would attempt, even if imwatched, 
to carry off the cannon (by the by 
there are not half a dozen), or to 
take a sketch of the fortifications 
in order to betray them to the 
Emperor of China. The one great 
disadvantage of Ostend is the want 



OSTEND. — ^^i<WEE 12. 



59 



of a country walk ; here is a su- 
perb one, yet, extraordinary to say, 
the public are excluded from it. 

You will do well also when set- 
tling in Belgium to acquire a know- 
ledge of the local police laws. By 
lEadvertence you may place a flower 
pot on your window-siU; if you 
do so, you will be fined. ¥010" Eng- 
lish servant may chance to throw 
out rubbish before your door after 
9 A.1VI. ; if she does, you'll have to 
pay a penalty. Your dog may 
ramble about umnuzzled during 
the summer ; if he does, he will be 
caught in a net, and taken to the 
police office, detained for forty- 
eight hours, when, if not ransomed 
by his master for a certain sum, he 
will forthwith be put to death. 
There are many other poUce regu- 
lations existent in each town. I 
am far from quarrelling with them, 
but I strongly advise every person 
settling down to acquire a complete 
knowledge of them, if he wishes to 
be comfortable. 

Ostend boasts a very nice little 
theatre, but this is closed in summer, 
.and only opens once a week in 
winter. The Casino rooms, which 
are really very superb, are open 
during a few weeks in summer ; 
Itere music and dancing are the 
iOrder of the night, and as the sub- 
■seription to them is very low, they 
are nightly crowded during the 
season. Beneath them is a sort of 
dub, to which only subscribers and 
their friends are admitted. In the 
latter respect the committee are 
most liberal. Every species of re- 
freshment may here be had. There 
is a good newspaper reading-room, 
in which the Times and the Globe 
are taken, attached to this estab- 
Mshment, as also a billiard table and 
card tables at your service. Do- 
Moinoes however here, as elsewhere 
in Belgium, are the prevaihng game. 
■To ^n English eye, unaccustomed to 
see them played, save by children, 
it seems strange to witness the 



I avidity with which they are not 
I only carried on, but even watched 
by the bystanders ; considerable 
sums are often staked on the result. 
A stranger will find to his cost, if 
he tries the experiment for money, 
that there is a very great deal of 
play, as well as many necessary 
calculations, in this game. 

You must not be shocked in their 
public societies in Belgium if you 
see officers of rank on terms of 
intimacy with tradesmen, and even 
tradesmen's assistants ; although 
I beheve the old nobility of Flan- 
ders to be as x)roud in their hearts 
as any aristocracy in Europe, yet 
they veil their feelings in public, 
and affect to drop with pleasure 
into the new order of tilings, which 
refuses all homage to mere heredi- 
tary rank. 

There is a shooting gallery near 
the ramparts. The great charms, 
however, of Ostend are her Digue 
and her sands; escaping from the 
town, you here find a marine pro- 
menade unequalled, I believe, in Eu- 
rope. This dehghtfiil walk is above 
half a mile in length, and, being 
paved with small Dutch bricks,beau- 
tifully inlaid, dries in a few minutes 
after the heaviest shower of rain. 

On the one side is the open sea, 
on the other the fortification ditch, 
which the jieople have the bad 
taste to leave, during a great part 
of the summer, so low in point of 
water, that when the breeze blows 
from the town side, a most offensive 
smeU salutes the promenader on 
the Digue ; this, however, might 
easily be avoided by keeping the 
fosse full, or at least occasionally 
changing the water. The authori- 
ties should see to this. 

The sands, at low tide, extend 
out a quarter of a mile, and being 
perfectly firm, form a fine ride, 
walk, or drive. Horses and donkies 
are to be had for hire. A canter 
along the shore for as many miles 



60 



BOTJTE 12. — OSTEND. PART II, 



as the equestrian may choose will j 
be found delightful. I 

No one bathes (?. e. the inhabit- I 
ants) till after the ocean has been 
officially blessed. This ceremony 
takes place early in July ; from j 
that period till October, the sea, at i 
each end of the Digue swarms with 
bathers. Both sexes here promis- 
cuously commingle ; it is true that 
both gentlemen and ladies are com- 
pelled by the police to wear bathing 
dresses; yet, to the EngHsh eye, 
unaccustomed to such scenes, it 
must, indeed, seem strange to see 
males and females in flannel robes, 
saturated with water, clinging so 
closely to their limbs as to expose 
the exact form and proportions of 
each bather, dancing, romping, and 
sporting together ; chatting, swim- 
ming, or floating, in close vicinity, 
apparently wholly unconscious of 
the impropriety they are commit- 
ting. Nor vnil he feel less disgust 
than astonishment wlien he sees 
some ten or twelve stout peasants, 
of both sexes, issue from the same 
bathing machine. I have, myself, 
coimted sixteen males and females 
entering the same vehicle, seeming- 
ly without the least idea of the 
indecency they were about to be 
guilty of. Nor even in the higher 
ranks, is it an uncommon sight to 
see a man and his wife dressing 
and undressing in the same bathing 
machine. AVlien our countrymen 
first see these strange indelicacies, 
they feel shocked, and turn away, 
feeling sure that they would die ra- 
ther tban be guilty of following such 
a bad example. In a few months 
afterAvards, they not only look on 
with a careless and unastonished 
gaze, but readily join the party who 
thus promiscuously gambol amidst 
the waves. x\ stranger to Ostendmay 
fancy I am too severe, that such an 
assertion is censorious. For the 
confirmation or denial of my state- 
ment, 1 beg to refer him to any old 
resident in Ostend, or the still 



better test of Ms own future prac- 
tical experience. 

The Digue, as I said before, is a 
delightful place of general rendez- 
vous, and when enlivened by the 
presence of the King and Queen, 
as it often is in summer, presents 
one of the most heart cheering 
coups d'oeil possible ; yet there is 
one objection to it, which every 
year makes more glaring, I allude 
to the dress of the fair promenaders, 
who here adopt a toilette more 
fitted to the gaieties of Brighton, or 
the smartness of Chiswick gardens, 
than to the brick pier of a foreign 
fishing town. Most of the visitors 
are supposed to come here for sea 
bathing. To accomplish this ob- 
ject, they temporarily quit their 
elegant habitations, leave their 
suite of servants behind them, and 
contenting themselves with an ill; 
furnislied drawing room, which 
often, like the cobler's residence j 
serves them 

" For parlour and all," 

put up with the attendance of a 
wretched female servant at table, 
and the Hi-dressed dinner of a local 
cook, undergo a series of annoy- 
ances they would scorn to think 
upon in their own residences, and 
laugh at privations they could 
never know at home. All this 
they do in the belief that they are 
here residing for the sake of the 
fine air, and sea bathing, willingly 
looking upon the months here 
passed, as a sort of pic-nic party, 
where shifting is the order of the 
day, and scramblmg a source of 
hilarit}'. In such a place, and 
during such a visit, is it not natural 
to look for the quiet poke bonnet 
and green veil, which may be 
hourly seen at Broadstairs and 
Worthing ? If you do, gentle 
reader, you will be most strangely 
mistaken. The gentlemen do their 
best to prove their ton by their 
style of dress, whUe the ladies on 



OSTEND. KOOXi: 12. 



61 



the ]>igue of Ostend, exhibit the 
very last fashions from Paris, only 
differing from the pictures we see 
in the shops by the exaggerations 
they introduce. I have almost 
invariably remarked that the 
plainest dressed woman in a water- 
ing place is usually the individual 
of the highest rank and best tact. 
I cannot, therefore, feel otherwise 
than grieved at seeing the bad 
taste exhibited in this respect by 
the fair visitors at Ostend. 

In the forenoon, before all the 
parade of dress takes place, it is a | 
curious sight to see the German \ 
ladies, who here flock in great i 
numbers during the season, and j 
who live almost entirely on the \ 
Digue, breakfasting and duiing at ' 
the coffee-house here situated, | 
walking up and down after bath- 
ing, with their long hair floAving 
do\m their backs. The fact is, 
that they consider a cap while 
bathing as unwholesome, and take 
this primitive mode of drying their 
dripping locks. The effect is very 
strange at first. 

Ostend boasts a very neat little 
Protestant church, in which service 
is performed by one of the five 
chaplains salaried by the Belgian 
government, who liberally grant 
80/. a year each to that number of 
clergymen to officiate in the princi- 
pal cities and towns of Belgium. 

There is also an EugUsh physi- 
cian resident here, a gentleman of 
acknowledged skill, and to whose 
talent and attention I can person- 
ally bear testimony. 

In mentioning the amusements 
of Ostend, I must not omit the 
almost daily arrival of the packets 
from England. To greet the arri- 
val of their coimtrymen, in the 
hope of seeing some friend come 
over, almost all the English resi- 
dents flock down to the pier, and 
thus, by common consent, form an 
agreeable rendezvous at the port 
side. 



The markets of Ostend are hy 
no means reasonable or well sup- 
plied. The poultry is almost all 
sent away to London by the steam 
packets, the greater quantity of 
fish caught is forwarded instantly 
to Brussels by the railroad, and the 
meat, which is by no means first- 
rate, costs about a penny a pound 
dearer than in any other town m 
Flanders, the usual price here 
being 6d., whereas it only costs 
5d. everywhere else. The bread 
is particularly good. The vegetable 
market is first-rate. 

Ostend is the only place in the 
country where oysters can be eaten 
really fresh. And if you are a, 
smoker and have not laid in your 
full stock of cigars, do so here. 

On the whole I should say Ostend 
is a good place for bathing, but 
that as there are no public amuse- 
ments, no sources of enjoyment for 
the stranger, none of the luxuries 
he meets with at Boulogne and 
other continental watering places, 
the prices are ridiculously high, 
and must come down before this 
little town can hope to compete 
with her gayer rivals. Were this 
reduction once to take place, I feel 
certain that Ostend would become 
a favourite spot, not only of resort: 
in summer, but also be popular as 
a quiet winter residence, possessing 
almost all the advantages of con- 
tinental life, and at the same time 
a close proximity to England. 
Belgium as she is. 

At Slykens, about a mile outside 
the town, on the Bruges road, a.t 
the house of Mr Paret, is a very 
curious and interesting cabinet of 
natural history, and curiosities^ 
well worthy a visit. 

Passports, if neglected inEngland, 
may be obtained at Ostend from 
the British Consul. 

Conveyances from Ostend to Dun- 
kirk and Calais, 



m 



HOUTE 13. — BRUGES. P-AKT II. 



ROUTE 13. RAILROAD. 

OSTEND TO BRUSSELS. 

The trains leave Ostend at least 
three times a day for Brussels, and 
twice for Liege, and one direct to 
Cologne ; for latest particulars re- 
specting hours of departure, see 
Introduction under Railways, The 
distances from Ostend are as under. 











FARES. 




Distance. 


Time . 


1st CI. 1 2 CI. 




Miles. 

i3i 


h . 


f. 


c. 1 f. c. 


Bruges 


38 


T" 


75 


1 25 


Ghent 


40i 


59 


5 





3 75 


Courtrai 


68i 


3 10 


6 


75 


6 25 


Mouscron 


7H 


3 30 


8 





6 25 


Tournay 


97* 


4 10 


9 





7 


Malines 


75" 


3 40 


8 


50 


6 50 


Antwerp : 


89| 


4 22 


9 


25 


7 


Brussels 


S7| 


4 15 


9 


25 


7 



Classchendael and Jabheke, a small 
village at a little distance from the 
railroad remarkable for its old 
eastle, the property of Baron Lar- 
beke. 

BllUGES. 

Inns. Hotel du Commerce, Rue 
St Jacques, near the Grande Place. 
I really do not know a more com- 
fortable, better conducted, or more 
reasonable house in the whole of 
Belgium ; the dinners are of the 
best quality, plentiful, and well 
served, generally including a great 
variety of the most delicious fish. 
The proprietor, Mr Vandenbergh 
Dumortier, pays the utmost atten- 
tion to the wishes of his guests, 
and regularly sends his onmibus to 
attend the arrival of the railway 
trains to convey travellers to the 
Jiotel. 

Hdtel de Flandre. 

Bruges, the chief town of Western 
Inlanders, is situated in a fine plain 
at the junction of the canals of 
Ecluse and Ostend. The country 
known in the seventh contury was 
circumscribed in the limits of the 
canton which formed afterwards 
the France de Bruges. It was 
governed by foresters appointed by 



the Kings of France, the first of 
whom, according to the old chro- 
niclers, was Lyderick duBucq, who 
lived under Clotaire IL The his- 
tory of Lyderick and of his suc- 
cessors as far as Baudouin, sur- 
named Bras de Fer, or Iron Arm, 
is enveloped in darkness, and over'- 
charged with fabulous tales. Au- 
thors neither agree as to their 
names, their actions, nor their 
number. Baudouin, called Bras de 
Fer, on account of his valour and 
his daring, succeeded his father 
Adoacre as Forester of Flanders in 
837. Baudomn reigned sixteen 
years, and by the wisdom of his 
administration left the country in 
a very flourishing condition. The 
city was considerably enlarged in 
1270 by the inhabitants, who for 
this purpose obtained a permission 
from the Countess Margaret of Con- 
stantinople ; it received a new ex- 
tension in 1331 by the favour of 
Count Louis de Drecy. Bruges 
sufiered at various times from 
conflagrations. The most terrible 
were those of 1184, 1215, and 1280. 
This last consumed the Beflroi, 
which contained all the titles and 
privileges of the city. Count Guy 
of Dampierre, who sought to re- 
strain the privileges, took advan- 
tage of this circumstance and 
governed the city as if none had 
ever existed ; that is to say, accord- 
ing to his own will. The Brugeois 
revolted, and were not quelled 
without much difficulty. But some 
time after the King of France, 
Philippe le Bel, having taken the 
city from Guy of Dampierre in the 
year 1299, restored it all its privi- 
leges. At the commencement of 
the thirteenth century, Bruges be- 
came by its conunerce one of the 
most flourishing cities in Europe. 
The Hanseatic Towns, who had just 
then formed their powerful asso- 
ciation, chose Bruges for their 
entrepot and established a miart 
there ; it soon became the ceatre 



BELGieM. ROt)T£ 13. BRUGES. 



63 



of commximcation between the 
iner<ihants of the North and those 
of Italy, then known imder the 
name of Lombards. In 1318, five 
Venetian gaUiots arriyed at Bruges 
to sell their cargoes at the fair, and 
returned laden with the produc- 
tions of the Indies. The prospe- 
rity and wealth of the city were so 
great under Philip the Bold, that 
when intelligence arrived of the 
captivity of Jean sans Peur, taken 
prisoner at the battle of McopoUs, 
and that for his ransom 200,000 
ducats were required (at that period 
an enormous sum), one single mer- 
chant of Bruges became respon- 
sible for it until the sum could be 
raised by the towns of Flanders 
and Boulogne. Philip the Good 
instituted at Bruges, on the occa- 
sion of his marriage with Isabella 
of Portugal, the order of the Golden 
Fleece. 

The population of Bruges amounts 
at present to 45,000 souls ; it once 
exceeded 200,000. Of all its former 
splendour nothing now remains but 
its broad streets and its public 
squares. With respect to monu- 
ments, Bruges, above aU other cities 
in Belgium, has the most faithfully 
preserved the character of the mid- 
dle ages. The visitor should slacken 
Ms pace while passing through the 
streets to admire the beautiful 
architectural details and the exqui- 
site bas-reliefs of the greater part 
of the houses. Among these old 
and stately mansions of feudal times, 
his fancy may bring before him 
some noble lady, with velvet hat and 
rich embroidered boddice, issiiing 
from a sculptured porch, a falcon 
on her snowy hand, and her train 
supported by an amorous page. 
When noon sets, the carillons of the 
tour des halles chiming, he awaits 
ih the Market place the squadron 
of lansquinets about to relieve the 
•post of Flemish infantry, and stai^les 
at seeing the modern bayonet where 
he had expected to behold the 4all 



and glittering halbert. His eyes 
wander to the aerial windows in 
hopes of some lovely Domia, some 
Florinda or Juana, appearing, half 
concealed, behind the Spanish lat- 
tice. Wlietherthe former reputa- 
tion for beauty of the ladies of 
Bruges is merited in our own times, 
must be left entirely to himself; in 
short, if Bruges may still be called, 
" formosis Bruga pueUis." 

The Cathedral Church of St Sa- 
viour. — This fine cathedral is said 
to have been founded by St Eloy, 
who preached the Gospel in tliis 
country about the year 646. He 
was assisted in his labours by Dago- 
bert, to whose pious liberality, ac- 
cording to Myer, the saint owed his 
means for its erection. In 1358, it 
was destroyed by fire and recon- 
structed on the present site. It is 
built entirely of brick, and its exte- 
rior is by no means striking. It 
has not even a porch, but this is 
very frequent among the churches 
of Flanders. This church possessed 
a nimiber of very fine pictures 
before the fire of the 19th July, 
1839, which threatened to reduce it 
into ashes. Some of them were 
saved and restored to their places. 

Notre Dame. — ^Toward the middle 
of the eighth century, mider thie 
government of the fourth Forester 
of Flanders, Estorede, St Boniface, 
on his way into Germany, passed 
through Bruges, where he sojourned 
for a short period to preach the 
word of God, and commencied the 
construction of a chapel which he 
dedicated to our Lady. Its exterior 
is by no mea.ns remarkable except 
from the height of its tower, and, 
like the church of St Saviour, is 
without a porch. In 1163, the 
tower, which, as may stiU be seen 
by the western wall, was built of 
white stone, fell into pieces, and 
was only re-erected in 1297. The 
chapels only date from the four- 
teenth and fifteenth centuries. This 
biHlding is 435 feet high, and its 



6^ 



KOUIE 13. BRUGB-S. i'AKT JI. 



summit serves as a land-mark to 
ships at sea. It may be observed 
to iuciine a little towards the south, 
and a popular tradition affirms, 
that the architect, in despair at the 
discovery of such a remarkable 
defect, threw himself from the 
tower, and was interred at the 
eastern angle of the church, where 
an old tomb is still to be seen. In 
1760, there was stiU at the angles 
of the great tower four smaller ones 
in hewn stone, of great beauty, and 
of about eighty feet in height: they 
served to mask the nudity of the 
spire called the needle. 

The church of Kotre Dame con- 
tains some fine pictures. At the 
end of the principal nave, near the 
entrance door, is an ' Adoration of 
the Magi,' by G. Seghers. In the 
second chapel of the transverse 
nave, on the same side, an ' Angel 
annomicing to St Joseph the Elight 
into Egypt,' by Maes. A little 
before the communion altar is a 
' Last Supper,' bearing the name of 
Pourbus, and the date 1572. The 
altar is ornamented with a statue 
of the Virgin holding in her arms 
the infant Jesus, by Michael Angelo. 
The head of the Virgin breathes the 
noble beauty of Italian chmes, and 
appears remarkable among the 
northern visages, and still more so 
in the atmosphere of Flanders. The 
expression of the child is of exquisite 
delicacy, and the hands of both 
figures particularly to be admired. 
The vestments of the Virgin are of 
a finish which have often called in 
question the authenticity of this 
precious group. The gallery in 
wood, a little farther on, communi- 
cated formerly with the Hotel de 
Gruthuyse, adjoining the church, of 
which tlie present Mont de Piete 
forms a part. Below may be read 
the device of that house, "Plus est 
en vous.'' This monument is of a 
very pure Gothic style and in fine 
preservation. Before quitting the 
gallery may be seen, to the right, a 



picture representing' the 'Virgis, 
the infant Jesus, and several Saints/ 
said to be by Van Dyck. The one 
in front of it is also very remark- 
able; but no one in Bruges knows 
its author. At the end of the prin- 
cipal nave the ' Adoration of the 
Shepherds,' which served as a pen- 
dant to the 'Adoration of Magi,' 
by Seghers, is signed De Grayer, 
and bears the date of 1667. Op- 
posite tlie pulpit is a magnificent 
figure by E. Quellyn the ' Mystic 
Marriage of St Catharine of Sienna.' 
The pulpit is a superb piece of carv- 
ing in wood. The beautiful gates 
of the choir are wrought iron. 

The chapel contiguous to the' 
vestry room contains the tombs of 
Charles the Bold, and Mary of Bur- 
gundy, his daughter. Portimately 
they were saved from the vandalism 
of the French revolution, and were 
replaced in 1806. When Napoleon, 
in the month of May, 1810, visited 
Bruges with Maria Louisa, he left -a 
sum of 1 0,000 fr. to have them placed 
in a chapel by themselves. The 
Archduchess Mary, whose statue, in 
brass, gilt and burnished, reclines 
upon her tomb, died the 27th March, 
1842, aged twenty-five years. She 
is represented with her hands joined 
and her feet resting on two small 
dogs. Being once out heron hunt- 
mg in the environs of Bruges, her 
horse took iright, and running away 
with her, struck her against a tree, 
by which she was thrown from her 
saddle. She was enceinte at the 
time, and fell a victim to the ex- 
treme delicacy which characterised 
her, and which on this occasion 
prevented her from making knoAvii 
her state. The mausoleum of this 
princess was erected unmediately 
after her death, that is to say, to- 
wards the end of the fifteenth cen- 
tury. The sculptor of this splendid 
monument remains miknown. A 
genealogical tree, one of the prin- 
cipal branches of which ascends, 
while the other descends, x>oints dut 



BELGIUM. aOrT£ 13. BKUGES. 



6S 



the ancestry, paternal and maternal, j cure of a wound. After there- 
of the princess. Tlie branches j establishment of his health, pre- 
support small enamelled escut- i ferring painting to a military life, 
cheons. The block upon which the ; and finding the comforts of the hos- 
statue reposes is a fine touchstone, j pital superior to what he had been 
Charles the Bold, whose remains ; long accustomed, he managed to 
repose in the other mausoleum, was i extend his convalescence to beyond 
killed on the 3rd January, 1477, at ' six years, repaying Ms cost to the 
the battle of Nancy. In 1558, i institution by an artist's cm'rency, 
Philippe II, son of Charles V, ordered i that is to say, by paintings and 
a tomb similar to that of the j portraits. Tlie pictures of the 
Princess Mary to be constructed for • shrine re]3resent the ' Journey and 



the Duke of Burgundy, and ac- 
corded the simi of 20,000 florins for 
its construction. It is seen by an 
old accoimt, dated 1556, that the 
expense anounted to 24,395 florins, 
6 sous, and 6 deniers (about 45,000 
francs). According to the terms 



Martyrdom of St Ursula.' Hem- 
ling's picture, 'preserved with re- 
markable care, is closed by two 
wings. It represents the ' Mystic 
Marriage of St Catherine,' in a 
convent chapel. The Virgin is 
seated under a canopy, and her 



of the contract, a recompense was \ feet repose upon a carpet of suck 



to be allowed to those >vorkmen 
who should become impotent or 
should lose their teeth; doubtless in 
consequence of the mercury to be 
employed in the execution of the 
enamels. These tombs are gener- 



admirable perspective and coloiur- 
ing, that the hand of the beholder 
instinctively attempts to touch it; 
it is surrounded by the friars and 
the nims who existed in Hemling's 
time in the hospital itself. The de- 



ally concealed b}'' sHding panels and ' licacy and truth of expression in the 



exhibited to the public only on fete 
days, or to strangers by paying a 
fee to the keeper. 

Hospital of St John is situated 
opposite the principal entrance door 
of the church of Notre Dame. Its 
foundation is imlaio\vn. The church 



coimtenances of aU the figures far 
exceed the expectations of the 
visitor. The brightness of the 
colouring, although it has passed 
tlirough successive centuries, would 
dim the lustre of an infinity of 
modem paintings, although Hem- 



of this hospital contains the shrine ling continued to employ the ordi- 
of St Ursula, as much celebrated i nary mixtm-e of glue, gum, and 
for the workmansliip of the gold- i white of eggs for the mordant of 
smith as the exquisite painting by I his colours, instead of oil, some time 
Hemling. The shrine, which turns I before introduced by his rival John 
on a pivot, is in the form of a rec- ; Van Eyk. Near the left corner of 
tangiilar Gothic edifice, fifteen : the mantel-piece is another picture 
inches high, two feet long, and eight ; by Hemling, representing the ' Ado- 
inches WT.de. This miniature tomb I ration of the Magi,' under the most 
is a monument of Christian archae- i extravagant circumstances. The 
ology : to the interest of its details j head of the negro, who is looking on 
is joined the high antiquity of its | the scene from the stable "window 
materials, and the inestimable value ! in a hospital dress, is a portrait of 
of its execution. Hemling was a j the artist liimself. 
native of Bruges; his dissipation The other churches of Bruges 
having reduced him to pemuy, he are those of St James, St Giles, St 
became a soldier. He was but little i Walburghe, St Anne, the Dunes, 
known as 'a painter when he was { the Beguinage, the Capuchin Bro- 
admitted into the hospital for the I thers, and Jerusalem. The latter 



66 



ROUTE 13. — BRTTGES. PART II. 



is only remarkable for its perfect 
similitude to the church of the 
Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem. Peter 
Adomes, who was its foimder, tra- 
velled thrice to Palestine ^vith the 
sole intention of avoiding the small- 
lest error in its construction. The 
mothers contain many good pictures ; 
tout their authors are either un- 
35:nown or at the hest doubtful. 

The Hotel de Ville.—ThQ Town- 
liaH of Brages, a pure and weU- 
preserved Gothic monument. It is 
not very extensive, its length is 
only twenty-six metres thirty cen- 
timetres, and its height, without 
the root!, nineteen metres fifteen 
centimetres. The niches with which 
the whole of the fa§ade is orna- 
mented, fomaerly contained statues 
of the Counts and Countesses of 
Manders, to the number of thirty- 
three, in wood painted and gilt ac- 
cording to the custom of the times, 
the designs of which M. Delepierre 
has preserved for us in his able 
work ' Les Annales de Bruges.' At 
present the niclies are all empty. 
On the 18th of December, 1792, the 
iVench revolutionists caused the 
whole of these " effigies of tyrants" 
to be thrown down, and the armo- 
rial bearings to be torn from the 
windows. Their fragments were 
mingled with those of the gaUows, 
the scaffolds, and the rack, and 
made into a pile to which the town 
executioner, Pierre Boskin, was 
obliged to apply the torch. The 
vast room which occupies nearly 
the whole floor of the Hotel de Ville, 
including four of the "v^ondows, con- 
tains the public library, composed 
of 7,932 voliunes, 526 of which are 
manuscripts on vellum, brought 
from the abbey of the Dunes. The 
ceilmg, of very curious workman- 
ship, forms a vaulted roof, groined 
with pendants for candelabraa. 

The Chapel de St Basil (or Holy 
Blood), on the right of the H6tel de 
"Ville (or Town-hall), is remarkable 
for a Gothic front of exquisite taste. 



Over the door of the staircase is 
represented a pelican surrounded 
by the Oordian knot, a mysterious 
emblem of the redemption. At the 
side are the busts of two counts 
and two countesses of Flanders, 
very well sculptured in white stone. 
The middle ones bear the names of 
Charles and Elizabeth. 

The Palace of Justice was for- 
merly that of the Counts of Flan- 
ders, who could go from it imder 
cover on one side to the church of 
St Donatus, from the other to the 
chapel of the Holy Blood, by passing 
through the upper rooms of the 
Town-hall. TMs umnense building 
was given u]3 to the Franc magis- 
trate by Philippe le Bon after he bad 
built a new one, of which he took 
possession in 1740 (after liis mar- 
riage with Isabella of Portugal), and 
wherein was born Philippe le Bel in 
1478 ; the ruins still bear the name 
of " Pricen-hof " The interior of the 
Palace of Justice deserves a visit, 
to admire a chef-d'oeuvre of carving 
in wood (the artist is imfortmiately 
imknown) : it is the chimney-piece 
of a room in which the magistrate 
of Franc held his sittings. It is or- 
namented with full-length figures, 
almost of the natural size, of the 
Emperor Charles V, of Maximi- 
lian and Mary of Burgmidy on his 
left, of Charles the Bold and Mar- 
garet of England on his right. 
These statues are of exquisite 
workmanship and admfrably mo- 
delled; they would not suffer by a 
comparison with the chefs-d'oeuvre 
of any period or country. Behind * 
them are distributed escutcheons 
with the arms of Spain, Burgimdy, 
Flanders, England, &c., &c. In 
the niche behind the statue of 
Charles V are seen m medaUitms 
the portraits in profile of Philippe le 
Bel, his father, and Jane of Spain, 
his mother. On the angles of the 
same height are medallions, repre- 
senting, according to M. Rudd, 
Charles V and Isabella of Portugal, 



BELGIUM. ROUTE 13.— BRUGES. 



€7 



feis wife. This work was executed 
Ml 1529, in the reign of Charles V, 
according to the date on one of the 
columns. The lower part is in 
touchstone, the little genii which 
decorate the frise are in alabaster 
of less deUcate workmanship, as is 
:aIso the has-relief representmg the 
history of the chaste Susanna, the 
^iidg-ment and the condemnation of 
the elders. This room is at present 
appropriated to the deliberations of 
thejm-ies. The front of the Pa- 
lace of Justice towards the town is 
•modern ; it dates from 1722. The 
side toAvards the canal is in the 
same state as when built, with four 
little towers quite perfect, which 
gives a good idea of the origmal 
architecture of that building. 

The Tower of the Market.— It 
38 not known at what precise pe- 
Tiod this fine edifice was first biiilt ; 
it is only known that the Cloth 
-Market, or Water Hall, which now 
BO longer exists, was built in the 
twelfth century, and called the 
iNew Hall by way of distinction 
from this, which was caUed the 
Old HaU. Originally the buildings 
which support the tower were iso- 
lated ; the side galleries were not 
«dded until the fourteenth centiu'y. 
In 1280, under the Count Guy de 
Dampierre, the tower, which was 
made of wood, and which contained 
the archives or privileges of the 
town, was burnt by the Flemish, 
as has been described in the history 
of Bruges. To prevent a recur- 
rence of a like misfortmie, it was 
rebuilt in brick, but in 1493 was 
struck by lightnmg. In 1502 it 
was again rebuilt, and in 1741 a 
third fire destroyed it doAvn to the 
third inner arch. It has been re- 
built, as we now see it, as far as the 
upper balustrade. It is said that 
on this tower was placed the gilt 
brass dragon which was taken by 
the people of Ghent from the town 
of Bruges in 1382, and placed on 
their belfry. The total height of 



the building is about 107 metres. 
The tower leans a little to the east: 
this bend is very perceptible at a 
certain distance. From the top of 
this tower the to^vns of Ostend, 
Courtray, Ghent, and L'Ecluse are 
easily seen: its chimes are the 
finest in Europe ; they are com- 
posed of forty-eight beUs, forming 
four octaves, the largest of which 
is one metre 59 in height by 2.5 in 
diameter, the least 13 by 1.8 centi- 
metres. A Latm inscription states 
tliat this piece of mechanism was 
the work of Antome de Hondt in 
1748. 

The gallery of the Museum con- 
tains a few paintings, but most of 
them are very interestmg. 

The Theatre, thoiTgh small, is 
neat and elegant. There are per- 
formances several times a week. 

Here also is another branch of 
the Banc|_ue Anglaise, of Messrs P. 
A. Reynolds and Co., of Brussels. 
The Bureau is at No. 2 Rue des 
Pierres, near the Grand Place, and 
in a direct line from the railway 
station. 

The Large Dock, or Basin, 
which communicates with the ca- 
nals of Ghent, Ostend, L'Ecluse, and 
Dunkirk, is one of the finest in 
Belgium. 

Commerce. — In Bruges and its 
vicinity are manufactories of cloth 
of aU kinds, lace, table-linen, tape, 
worsted, &c. The trade in com, 
hemp, and flax, is very great. 

The English Nunnery has existed 
more than one hundred years. 
The building itself is not remark- 
able, but strangers wiU be gratified 
to hear the chantmg of the nuns 
during divine service ; admission is 
readily granted to strangers. 

N.B. A barge stiU plies on the 
canal between Bruges and Ghent, 
fare 4 fr., including a bed ; they 
leave at ten at night; before the 
completion of the railroad there 
were several. 

The stations between Bruges and 



GS 



ilOUTli 13. GIIE>"T. PART 13. 



Ghent are JBloemendael, Aeltre, and 
Landeghem. 

GHEKT. 

Hotels. — H. de la Poste, Flandre, 
and P. Bof/al, in the Place d' Armes ; 
H. Hays-Pas ; H. Lion d'or. 

The charges £it the hotels in 
Ghent are ahout the same as in 
Bruges. Breakfast, Ifr. 50c. ; dinner 
at table d'hote, 2frs. and 3frs. ; beds, 
2frs. ; wine, 3fi's. the bottle. 

Ghent, the ancient capital of 
Elanders, is situated on a plain at 
the confluence of the Scheldt, the 
Lys, the Lieve, and the Moere : 
about an equal distance from Brus- 
sels, Mechlui, Antwerp, Bruges, and 
Courtray ; popidation 90,000 inha- 
bitants. It is mtersected by water 
so as to be formed of twenty-six 
islands, the principal of which is 
the Cuve de Gand, formed by the 
Scheldt and Lys. The bridges of 
stone and wood amoimt together to 
eighty. Tlie foundation of this city 
is of very high antiquity. That of 
St Bavon carries it back to 47 
years before the Christian era ; 
but it is only to the monuments of 
the seventh century that the origin 
of Ghent as a city can reall}^ be 
traced. Charlemagne visited this 
city in 811, to inspect the vessels 
assembled there of which the fleet 
was composed that he ordered to 
be constructed for the safety of the 
coasts of Flanders. About the year 
1046, Count Baldwin aflbrded 
Ghent a marked protection, and 
delivered it from heavy bonds. The 
fortifications were commenced in 
1053, and Ghent became the capi- 
tal of Flanders in the year 1180. 
During the reigns of Eobert of 
Bethune and Louis of ISTcA^ers, 
grandson of the latter, Flanders 
Avas incessantly troubled with 
bloody revolutions. Towards the 
middle of the fourteenth century 
appeared a man who undertook to 
guide the turbident spirits of his 
fellow-citizens, ennobled for an in- 



stant the fate of the province, an 1 
became more powerful than ha*l 
ever been any of its counts. Jacques 
d' Arte veldt, born at Ghent in 1290, 
deserted the part}- of the nobles, 
which was that of France, and de- 
clared himself for the English, 
Avhose alliance promised for his 
country the highest commercial 
prosperity. England fiu'nished 
Flanders with wool of the finest 
quality, which supplied the manu- 
factories of the weavers (almost 
the only ones) in Ghent and the 
neighbouring towns. Iving Edward 
held out to them by such an allir 
ance an exemj^tion from duty upon 
woollens, while war menaced them 
with a destruction of their manu- 
factures. 

In 1639 the country of Flanders 
passed into the powerfid house of 
Burgmidy. Notwithstanding its 
troubles, Ghent had lost nothing 
either of its opiilence or of its pros- 
perity at the commencement of the 
fifteenth century ; the number of 
looms in occupation then amounted 
to 40,000. h\ time of war their 
corporation could furnish 18,000 
men. They exchanged their cloths^, 
their linen, and their carpets against 
the products of the East and of the 
South, and their communications 
by water were so established as to 
give them the advantages of a sea- 
port. Ait^x a bloody battle on the 
plains of Gavre, where the Gantois 
left 16,000 men killed or drowned 
in the Scheldt, Ghent lost a nmn- 
l)er of its privileges, and was con- 
demned to a fine of 400,000 golden* 
crowns. Mar}', the rich heiress of 
Burgundy and Flanders, Avho suc- 
ceeded to her father, was obliged to 
grant them a INIagna Charta, which 
destroyed the fetters her father and 
grandfather had placed upon their 
independence. 1516, Charles the 
Fifth became, }:)j the death of Fer- 
dinand the Catholic, his maternal 
grandfather, king of Spain and 
Sicily at the age of sixteen years, 



EELGICM. — ROUTE 13. GHENT. 



69 



'And at nineteen archduke of Aus- 1 
tria, by the death of Maximilian, 
his paternal grandfather. Tlie 
same year, 1519, he was raised to 
the imperial throne. His history 
imtil 1555 is that of all Europe. 
He left his sister, Mary of Austria, 
to govern the Low Countries. This 
princess having demanded in 1537 
an extraordinary subsidy to sus- 
tain the wars of the Emperor, the 
■Gantois refused to contribute to it. 
An insm-rection took place ; the 
old faction of the "Chaperons blancs" 
was revived under the name of 
*' Cressers," who seized on the muni- 
cipality, drove out the nobles, threw 
the city into open rebellion, and 
made preparations for a vigorous 
defence. The Emperor was m Sixain, 
and felt convinced that liis presence 
alone could restore tranquillity to 
<j hent. The Emperor, on his entry 
into the city at the head of an im- 
posing force, ordered the gates to 
be shut, and instantly convoked a 
council of the nobles and magis- 
trates to deliberate upon the pun- 
ishment merited by the rebellious 
inhabitants. His severity, how- 
ever, but little accorded with the 
threatening demonstrations he had 
made in order to impress the pubhc 
mind with a salutary' terror. The 
Duke of Alba, whose opinion 
Charles demanded, rex^lied that the 
whole revolted city shoiddbe razed 
to the ground. The Emperor made 
him ascend with liim to the tower 
of the Beffroi, and caused hun to 
observe the extent of this immense 
city. "How many Spanish skins," 
said he, " would it require to make 
3o glove fun gant) of such a size ?" 
a witticism to which he became at- 
tached, and which he often re- 
peated in a variety of other forms, 
fjf all who were condemned to 
death, the Emperor caused but 
twenty-three of the principal chiefs 
of the "Cressers" to be decapitated; 
forty others were banished ; while the 
magistrates and several of the nota- 



bles of the city came to hun, bare- 
footed and with a cord about their 
necks, to demand his pardon. The 
administration of this city was en- 
tirely remodelled. Li the place of 
the old monastery of St Bavon, 
Charles the Fifth laid, on the 12th 
of May, 1540, the first stone of the 
citadel, which was intended in fu- 
ture to keep the inhabitants incheck. 
It is well known how Charles V, 
fatigued with the supreme power, ab- 
dicated at Brussels, in the year 1555, 
in favour of his son, Philix^pe H, who 
thus became the thirty -third comit 
of Flanders. During his reign, took 
place those bloody reUgious wars, 
that ravaged Ghent and the whole 
comitry. Dating from this epoch, 
Ghent experienced all the vicis- 
situdes of the other towns of Flanders, 
and its history ceased to be interest- 
ing in itself. It was successively 
under the dominion, with the rest 
of the Netherlands, of the Emperor 
of Austria, Charles VI, his daughter, 
Maria-Theresa, the Emperors Jo- 
seph n and Leopold II, both sous 
of Maria-Theresa, and Francis 11, 
son of Leopold. This emperor lost 
Belgium in the war of the first 
coalition agamst France. The 
French repubhc was proclaimed at 
Ghent the 18th of Jime, 1796 ; 
Flanders was di^^ded into two de- 
partments, and Ghent became the 
chief place of the department of 
the Escaut. On the 4th of February, 
1814, a detachment of the allied 
troops, who had just crossed the 
limits of the French empire, entered 
Ghent, who occupied it under the 
command of the Russian colonel, 
Novonowitsch WelnikofF; on the 
26th of March of the following year, 
the corps of the army of General 
Maison drove out General Bichaloff, 
colonel of the Cossacks, and suc- 
ceeded in effecting a junction with 
the garrison of Antwerp, just en- 
camped at Melle. On the 29th, 
General Maison received a Prussian 
order ; and on the following day 



70 



KOUTE 13. — aHENT. PAST II. 



(jaitted the city by tiie gate of 
Couxtray, Avith the whole of the 
French troops. Prince WUham of 
OrangeNassauhadbeenbntjnstpro- 
claimed(the 10th of Feb. 1815) King 
oi the Netherlands, when Napoleon, 
bianished by the sovereigns of the 
lioly alliance to the island of Elba, 
suddenly reajjpeared in the very 
heart of France, and forced Lonis 
XVIII to quit Paris. The fugitive 
Mng arrived the 30th of March at 
Ghent, where he was received by 
the authorities and by Monsieur, 
the Count of Artois, and the Duke 
of Berri, who had preceded liiin. 
Louis XVin resided at Ghent 
during the space of time known in 
history as the hundred days. This 
prince honoured by his abode the 
mansion of the Count d'Hane de 
Steenhuyse, Kue des Champs, and 
Ms suite occupied the neighbouring 
houses. The Duke of Wellington, 
who arrived in the month of April, 
occupied the building opposite the 
residence of the deposed monarch. 
Monsieur and the Duke of Berri 
were lodged on the Kauter, at the 
Hotel des Pays-Bas. The Duchess 
of Angoideme did not arrive tiU the 
28th of May, having j)assed from 
England on her way from Bordeaux. 
All the sovereigns of Europe sent 
their ambassadors to Ghent, to the 
court of the French king ; the de- 
populated capital of Flanders reas- 
smned an imaccustomed activity 
and anunation, and offered during 
three months all the aspect of a 
royal residence. The 18th of June, 
1815, at eleven in the evening, the 
news of the result of Waterloo was 
brought to Louis XVIII. It ar- 
rived at the moment when this 
prince was plunged in the most 
anxious state of alarm ; for, during 
the whole day numerous English 
families, deceived as to the event of 
the battle, were passing in tumult 
through Ghent on their way to Os- 
tend for embarkation, spreading the 
news thattheFrench were victorious. 



During fifteen years, the poptila- 
tion, wealth, andprosperity of Ghent 
progressively increased ; it became 
the first manufactimng to^^Ti in the 
kingdom ; its streets were widened 
and embelHshed with useful and 
sumptuous edifices, and a new 
canal, communicating directly with 
the sea, permitted it to receive into 
its bosom the productions of the 
two worlds. 

There is now an immense trade 
at Ghent in linen and cotton, ma- 
nufactured and printed, by means 
of more than 100 steam-engines and 
30,000 worlanen. There are also 
a number of breweries, sugar re- 
fineries, and distilleries. Flowers 
form likewise a branch of commerce 
of much more imj)ortance than is 
generally imagined. 

Cathedral Church of St JBavon, — 
The church of St Bavon has only 
borne this name since 1540, when 
Charles V translated to it the col-^ 
legiate chapter of St Bavon, to make 
way for the construction, on its site, 
of the citadel. The tower was com- 
menced in 1462. Its height is 272 
feet. Four smaller towers detached, 
but of dehcate structure, climb along 
the prmcipal (which is octagonal)^ 
and give it a quadrangular ap-r 
pearance. The spire, which rose 
a third above the tower, and wai^ 
struck by Hghtning in 1603, was 
replaced by a platform, from which 
may be descried the steeples of Ant- 
werp, Mechlin, Brussels, Bruges, 
and Flushing. The arms of the 
knights of the Golden Fleece are 
still suspended round the choir, be- 
low the windows. The readorn- 
ment of the transverse nave, in 
black marble, from which are de- 
tached white columns, onlj^ dates 
from the last century. Although 
the church of St Bavon has suffered, 
like the rest, from the political and 
religious revolutions which troubled 
the city of Ghent during the. two 
last centuries, it is still one of the 
richest chapels in Christendom. 



BJBSLeiUSfc KOWTE 13. — ailENT. 



71 



The chapels which surrovmd the 
choir are adorned with a proftision 
of marbles and metals, and contain 
some of the most exquisite chefs- 
d'oeuvre of painting, the most pre- 
cious of which is the famous pic- 
ture of the brothers Van Eyck, 
inventors of oil-painting. The sub- 
ject Of this composition is taken 
from the Apocalypse ; it represents 
the heavenly Lamb adored by all 
the saints in the Old and New Tes- 
tament. To the right of the Lamb 
are seen the patriarchs and pro- 
phets of the ancient law on their 
knees ; to the left the apostles and 
the martyrs of the law. In the 
group of apostles are the por- 
traits of Hubert and John Van 
Eyck. The great pictm'e supports 
three other paintmgs, the principal 
of which (the centre one) repre- 
sents the Saviour of the world 
seated on a throne, clothed in pon- 
tifical robes. With one hand he 
blesses the assembly of the faithful, 
who in the picture below adore the 
spotless Lamb, and with the other 
he supports a sceptre of crystal. 
On his right is the holy virgin, as 
beautiful as the Madonna of Ra- 
phael ; on his left St John the Bap- 
tist, whose stern countenance forms 
a ; fine contrast with the sublime 
candour of the mother of God. In 
the extreme back gromid are per- 
ceived, upon a lummous relief, the 
cerulean towers of Jerusalem, co- 
pied from the towers of Maestricht, 
where these illustrious brothers 
were born. This chef-d'oeuvre, 
one of the most precious which the 
arts possess, is not less valuable on 
account of the merit of the paint- 
ing, than on that of its antiquity. 
Although now mor€ than 400 years 
old, it has preserved the pristine 
freshness of its colouring ; it is be- 
lieved to be the second picture 
painted in oil, and that the ' Pa- 
radis Terrestre/ in the church- of 
St Martm, at Ypres, is the first. 
AJU the efforts of laodem paiftteirs 



have failed in producing tlie lich- 
ness and brilliancy observed in 
these pictures. The secret of John 
Van Eyck, although transmitted 
I to his pupOs, has not reached us, 
and time, which so soon throws a 
sombre hue over our pictures, hasi 
preserved his in their original 
freshness. Every part of this ad- 
mirable composition is executed 
with the same care and the same 
superiority. The figures have the 
nobleness and grace of the Italiaa 
school, although they are not alto^ 
gether exempt from the stiffness of 
the German style ; their expres- 
sion is varied with infinite art. 
The head of Christ breathes a ma- 
jesty truly divine. It is surrounded 
with ornaments of dazzling magni^ 
ficence ; the tiara and the pontifi- 
cal robes glitter with gold and 
jewels of the most precious work- 
manship. The dresses exhibit the 
most delicate and exquisite tissues ; 
while the crystal sceptre, sur- 
mounted by a sapphire, together 
with the book, in the hand of St 
John, and other exquisite details, 
produce an iUusiou nothing less 
than marvellous. The great pic- 
ture of the heavenly Lamb disap* 
peared during the disorders of the 
French revolution, but was again 
restored with the two wings which 
represent Adam and Eve ; the 
other six wings were sold for the 
sum of 6,000 frs. The six original 
wings were bought for 100,000 frs., 
and afterwards sold to the King of 
Prussia for 4 10,000 frs. They now 
adorn that monarch's Cabinet in. 
Berlin. 

If tiie churches of Ghent possess; 
but one picture by Rubens, the one 
at least which adorns it is among: 
the finest of his chefs-d'ceuvre. It 
represents St Bavon received intt? 
the abbey of St Amand. The eowf* 
position: of this picture is a prodigy 
of science, and. its execution take^ 
the first rank among the glories off 
that great magter„ He has tri- 



72 



KOUTB 13. — GKBJifT. PART IT. 



timplied here over the great diffi- 
culty presented by the division of 
the subject into two parts ; the one 
(the upper) shoAving the two prin- 
cipal personages on an elevated 
flight of steps, St Amand who re- 
ceives St Bavon at the door of his 
monastery ; the other (the lower) 
representing the jjersonages neces- 
sary to the solemnity of tliis great 
scene. The picture is full of mo- 
tion withoxit confusion, and the eye 
embraces the whole of it as natu- 
rally as if it were attracted but by 
one principal group. This master- 
piece formerly embellished the 
grand altar of the choir ; it was 
carried off by the French, and re- 
stored to Belgium in 1815, and 
placed in the museum at Brussels ; 
but the city of Ghent obtained two 
years afterwards its restitution to 
the church of St Bavon. 

Tlie subterraneous church or 
crypt of St Bavon is divided into 
■fifteen chapels, which are for the 
most part sepulchres. It was con- 
secrated in 941 by Transmarus, 
Bishop of Tournay, and entirely 
reconstructed in 1228. It is here 
that Hubert Van Eyck and his 
sister Margaret were interred. 

St Michael. — The i)arocliial 
church of St Michael was com- 
menced in 1445 upon the site of a 
chapel of ease to Notre Dame of 
Akkerghem ; but it seems that 
the first works were executed 
with great tardiness, for it has 
scarcely anything exteriorly of 
the architecture of the fifteenth 
century. The beautiful square 
tower, wliich should have been 400 
feet high, was never finished ; and 
art most likely has lost nothing by 
it, if it is true that the model shown 
in the interior was the one that 
was to have served for it. The 
I^^ench despoiled the church of St 
Michael of all its Christian orna- 
ments. The building, entirely 
stripped in 1791, was inaugurated 
as the Temple of Reason, and on 



the altar was placed a statue of tbe 
Goddess of Liberty, at the feet of 
which marriages were performed, 
as they styled it, " devant la loi." 
The church was restored in 1802 
to Catholicism ; but the greater 
number of pictures and works of 
art were never afterwards fomid ; 
some of the chapels still remained 
despoiled, others have been deco- 
rated with modern pictures. 

St Nicholas. — The church of St 
Nicholas, which is a church of ease, 
is situated in the most frequented 
square. 

The churches of St Peter and 
St Stephen contain nothing parti- 
cidar to interest strangers. 

The Great Beguinage of Ghent, 
situated in the Rue de Bruges, was 
founded by the Countess Joan of 
Constantinople in 1234. The pre- 
sent clmrch, constructed in the 
seventeenth century, is remarkable 
for its neatness ; the picture of the 
great altar, which represents a 
' Descent from the Cross,' is a good 
composition of the school of Ru- 
bens. The sisterhood is composed 
of 600 religieuses, who are jii'esent 
every day at the church service. It 
is then particularly that the church 
merits visiting. 

The Little Beguinage was found- 
ed by the same Princess Joan of 
Constantinople and her sister Mar- 
garet on the Pre vert in 1324, in 
favour of those young persons 
Avhose i)overty precluded their ad- 
mission into cloisters : it forms 
equally a distinct quarter, and con- 
tains above 400 beguines. 

Oratory of the Dominicans. — 
The construction of this oratory, 
situated near the church of St 
Michael, dates from the thirteenth 
century. There is an admirable 
vault of wood here, sixty feet in 
span, constructed about 1700, by a 
monk of the establishment. Friar 
Remain, who was invited to Paris 
by Louis IV, on account of his 
liigh reputation, to finish the Pont 



BELGIUM. BOTJTE 13. — GHENT. 



73 



Royal, the architect of which had 
erred in his measurement. The 
paintings in the chapel are hardly 
worthy of attention. A part of the 
convent, suppressed in 1796, has 
been sold to a fraternity of the 
order of Dominicans, who, at pre- 
sent, occupy it and officiate there. 
The celebrated painter, Gaspard de 
Grayer, was buried in this church. 
The other religious edifices of 
Ghent are the Oratory of Bare- 
footed Carmelites, about the middle 
of the Rue du Bourg, the Oratory 
of the Sandalled Carmelites, in the 
Longue Rue du Chateau ; the Ora- 
tory of Notre-Dame de Schrey- 
booms, near the Courtray gate, and 
the Protestant Church, Rue des 
Violettes, formerly a part of the 
Convent of the Capuchins. None 
of these contain anything to interest 
artists or strangers. 

Hotel de ville. The fa§ade of the 
Town Hall is its least remarkable 
attraction. It is a monotonous 
suite of columns, ranged on three 
stages, and superposed in the man- 
ner of Vignole, the Doric, the 
Ionic, and the Corinthian. The 
Gothic portion of the Hotel de 
ViUe is in the Rue Haute Porte ; it 
was commenced in 1481, during the 
last years of the Ogee. The Ogee 
is altered in its character, being 
romided oflf and disguised by more 
modern ornaments, while the arch 
is flattened, and shows a change of 
taste. This mixture of the two 
styles is blended and harmonized 
with the most perfect grace. To- 
wards the middle of the lateral 
fa9ade, the tower of the staircase, 
formed by three projecting sides of 
an octagan, relieves it by its bold 
outlines. It is equally to be re- 
gretted that this part also of the 
building has been left unfinished. 
The sombre colonnade is continued 
on with it to the angle of the little 
street. At the angle which looks 
upon the square there hangs a very 
pretty tower, which accords admi- 



rably with the projecting staircase. 
A stone staircase, clumsily con- 
structed a few years since, conducts 
into a spacious vestibule, which 
replaces a suite of halls demolished 
at the first entry of Napoleon. 
Above is the Throne-room, which 
serves for public ceremonies, the 
distribution of prizes and national 
expositions of arts and manufac- 
tures. 

Beffroi, or BeU- Tower. — Among 
the principal privileges accorded to 
the establishment of townships was 
that of forming a belfry to assemble 
the burgesses, and also to recon- 
noitre the approach of an enemy. 
The township of Ghent, constituted 
in 1178, by Phillip of Alsatia, com- 
menced in 1183 the construction of 
its bell-tower. It is square, and 
built of Toumay stone, and is sur- 
mounted by five smaller towers 
containing the bells. The middle 
tower contains the great beU, 
which weighs 11,000 pounds ; the 
four others contain one of the best 
carillons in the country. The 
centre one supported an enormous 
dragon in gilt brass, which served 
as a vane. It was larger than an 
ox. It is said that this dragon was 
taken, during the crusades, from a 
mosque in Constantinople, by the 
Brugeois. The Gantois took it 
from them, in their turn, during 
the civil wars of the fiifteenth cen- 
tury. On days of public rejoicing, 
the dragon was lighted up ; from 
its mouth it vomited rockets. It 
was taken down a little time ago, 
not to be replaced. To ascend to 
the top two francs is charged. 

Butchers' and other Markets. 
Under Charles the Fifth the busi- 
ness of butcher was, at Ghent, con- 
fined to four great families called 
Vanmelle, Vanloo, Minne, and 
Deynoodt ; they obtained from 
that prince a patent that they and 
their descendants in line direct 
should alone be admitted to this 
calling, and the privilege in ques- 



ROUTE 13.-^GHENT. PART II. 



tion very soon added considerably 
to their wealth and influence. The 
Emperor, according to a popular 
tradition, did not disdain to mix 
the imperial blood with that of 
these low bred families, who as- 
sumed the name of Prins Kinderen 
(Children of the Prince, Princes of 
the Blood), a title still preserved by 
the butchers of the present day. 
They had their chapels attached 
to their meat market, their banner 
in the piiblic ceremonies, the right 
of presence at the inauguration of 
sovereigns, and that of serving 
them as a guard of honour. On 
the square of the old castle of the 
Counts there is a handsome fa9ade 
which serves as an entrance to the 
Fish Market. This edifice is sur- 
mounted by a colossal statue of 
Neptune, erect on his car, which is 
drawn by two sea-horses. In one 
hand he holds his trident, while 
with the other, he seems to be 
according his protection to the 
town. On the basement there is a 
circular piazza, ornamented on 
each side by a dolphin, in white 
marble. To the right and left of 
the entrance gates are two colossal 
figures lying extended, the Scheldt 
and the Lys, supported by two flu- 
vial urns. 

The Marche du Vendredi is a 
large square, thus named because 
a market is held there on each Fri- 
day. It was here that those deplor- 
able scenes took place which have 
reddened with blood the pages of 
the history of the turbulent citi- 
zens of Ghent. The building on 
the western side of the square, 
flanked by two towers, is the old 
mansion of the family of Uytenhove. 
The bunding opposite the Petite 
Hue du Serpent served for mea- 
suring cloths ; there is here a 
circular balustrade of iron, called 
Lynwaedring, on which, to this 
day, are exposed to public blame 
those defective pieces of cloth 
which have been fraudulently 



passed off as good. In 1600 a co- 
lumn was erected in the middle to 
the memory of Charles the Fifth. 
It was demolished in 1796. There 
are two pictures in the Museum of 
Ghent, which represent the Marche 
du Vendredi, such as it appeared 
in the seventeenth and eighteenth 
centuries. 

Tlie Marche aux Grains. — This 
square is surrounded by a number 
of hotels, diligence and omnibus 
offices. Behind the Corn Market, 
on the Lys, is the Maison des 
Bateliers, the architecture of which 
will be examined by the stranger 
with considerable interest. 

The Central House of Correction, 
a remarkable monument of the 
prudence of the administrators of 
Flanders. This vast establishment 
was founded by Maria Theresa, in 
in 1772, and considerably enlarged 
by the ex-King. It forms an im- 
mense octagon, divided into eight 
triangles, the apex of each termi- 
nating in a central court. It is si- 
tuated on the part of the Canal of 
Bruges which, under the name of 
Coupure, serves for a public pro- 
menade. The penitentiary system 
of the house is an object of constant 
solicitude by those enlightened men*? 
to whom the government have con- 
fided its direction. Commissioners 
were sent into every country to 
study plans for it, and it has since 
been copied in England, Prussia, 
and the United States. Permis- 
sions for visiting this philanthropic 
institution are obtained at the 
office of the first division of thei» 
provincial government. 

The Palais de l Universitie is a 
classic edifice of a style no less 
elegant than chaste, but it requires 
a more appropriate situation than 
the one it occupies at present, sur- 
rounded by unsightly buildings. 
Its portico is comprised of eight 
Corinthian columns, in the propor- 
tions of the Pantheon at Kome, 
their capitals being made after 



BELGIUM. ROUTE 13. — GHENT. 



75 



casts of those of the temples of 
Anthony and Faustina. On the 
pediment is represented the Gro- 
vernment, under the figure of 
Minerva, distributing to the city 
of Ghent academical fascia. The 
peristyle unfortunately cannot be 
seen until the spectator is in the 
Eue de I'Universite. The princi- 
pal hall of the palace is that which 
is called la Salle de Promotion. It 
is round, and decorated with a 
circle of eight columns of white 
stucco, highly polished. This co- 
lonnade forms a magnificent range 
of boxes for public ceremonies and 
concerts, which cannot be perform- 
ed in a more splendid theatre. 
These boxes are increased in num- 
ber by a lower tier, formed by the 
pedestals of the columns, which 
open and shut by means of sliding 
panels. The middle of the hall is 
arranged as an amphitheatre a- 
dorned by an elegant estrade. On 
the first story of the old building is 
a museum of natural history, which 
contains a rich cabinet of compara- 
tive anatomy. An extensive room 
is consecrated to instruments of 
physics and models of machines to 
serve for the lectures on arts and 
manufactures. The university of 
Ghent is divided into four faculties, 
the first. Law ; the second. Medi- 
cine ; the third. Science ; the 
fourth, Philosophy and Letters. A 
recent decree has added to these a 
school of civil engineering. The 
public library of the university is 
for the present in the church of the 
abbey of Benedictines of Baudeloo. 
It is composed of 60,000 volumes, 
among which are some very pre- 
cious manuscripts saved during the 
suppression of the convents. The 
library is open daily, from nine to 
twelve and from two to five, Sun- 
days and fete days excepted. 

The Botanic Garden was founded 
in 1707. In 1829 a beautiful oran- 
gery was erected, the hot houses 
of which contain riches of the ve- 



getable kingdom from all parts of 
the world. One part of the garden 
is especially consecrated to the 
study of Botany after the method 
of Jussieu. There are in this gar- 
den about 8,000 species belongmg 
to nearly 1,000 genera. 

Casino, — The Botanical and Mu- 
sical Societies, dedicated to St 
Cecilia, united for the purpose of 
having constructed, at their corn- 
common cost, a casino, to be exe- 
cuted by M. Roelandt, to whom 
Ghent owes its finest modern edi- 
fices. A large garden, opening in 
several places upon the promenade 
of the Coupure, connects the latter 
with the Casino, and these walks 
serve for the promenade of the 
members. The Botanical and Agri- 
cultural Society of Ghent dates 
from the 28th Nov., 1808. This 
society was the first in Europe to 
establish public shows of flowers : 
the example has been followed by 
aU the towns in Belgium. Those 
of the Society of the Casino take 
place twice a year : in the month 
of February and in the month of 
June. Six medals are distributed 
annually, two of which are in gold, 
and are accorded for the newest in- 
troduction of foreign plants. 

Galleries and private Collections. 
— Ghent possesses numerous collec- 
tions, the proprietors of which ofier 
to strangers every civility. 

Academy and Museum, Rue St 
Marguerite, founded in 1751 by a 
painter named Marissal, received 
in 1771 from the Empress Maria 
Theresa the title of Eoyal Aca- 
demy. The present building was 
constructed in 1738, to serve for a 
college for the Augustinian brother- 
hood, whose church is in the im- 
mediate vicinity ; it was given to 
the Academy in 1804. More than 
600 pupils study at this academy 
painting, sculpture, architecture, 
and design; there is a professor- 
ship for the instruction of pupils in 
superficial anatomy, so essential to 



76 



ROUTE 13. — TERMONDE. PART II. 



those who study the fine arts. The 
establishment possesses a beautiful 
collection of casts from the antique, 
executed at Paris from the Floren- 
tine and Eoman marbles before 
their restitution. The Picture Gal- 
lery occupies the second story. It 
contains about 150 paintings, prin- 
cipally from the abbeys and con- 
vents suppressed at Ghent and 
in the province. The public are 
admitted to this gallery from the 
1st of May to the 30th of Septem- 
ber, between the hours of eleven 
and two ; but strangers are at all 
times admitted upon addressing 
themselves to the concierge. 

Coffee Houses. — Cafe des Arcades, 
place d'Armes, Cafe Suisse, Cafe 
de Belle vue. 

Hackney Coaches. — -Pares of vigi- 
lantes for a drive, If.; for the first 
hour If. 50c. ; for the others l£ 

The canal of Ghent to Ostend 
was executed in the years 1612 and 
1613. It is about fifteen leagues 
in length, and is supplied by the 
Lys, with which it communicates 
by means of a sluice in the town 
of Ghent. It receives vessels of 
from eighty to one hundred tons 
burthen. 

GHENT TO MALINES. 
STATIONS. 

MeEe, a place of stoppage for 
trains of the second class. Here 
the railroad makes an immense 
curve to follow the course of the 
Scheldt. 

Wetteran, chief place of a can- 
ton between Ghent and Termonde, 
is a village pleasantly situated, and 
surrounded by numerous country 
seats. Population 9,000. 

Wichekn, a station for second 
class trains. 

Audeghem, near Termonde, is 
the station communicating with 

Alost, containing 15,000 inha- 
bitants. In the church of St Martin 



is a celebrated picture, ' Alost Ra- 
vaged by the Plague,' by Rubens. 

TERMONDE. 

Inns. L'Agle. Half-moon. 

Termonde, a fortified town, is 
most favourably situated at the 
confluence of the Scheldt and the 
Dender, (in Flemish Dendermonde, 
or Mouth of the Dender), six leagues 
from Brussels, in the midst of the 
principal cities of the country, with 
which it communicates by the rail- 
roads of Antwerp, Malines, and 
Ghent. In 1386, under the govern- 
ment of Count Louis, the circum- 
vallations of the town were enlarged. 
The citadel was not constructed till 
1584, by the orders of the Duke of 
Parma. In 1667, Louis IV came 
to besiege Termonde with 50,000 
troops, but was forced to retire 
before the rupture of the sluices. 
General ChurchiU, brother of the 
Duke of Marlborough, took pos- 
session of it after six days of open 
trenches, when the whole garrison 
were made prisoners of war. The 
citadel and fortifications are at 
present in the best possible condi- 
tion. Termonde contains 8,000 
inhabitants. When the great bridge 
was undergoing repair, a small 
statue of Mercury in bronze was 
found at the depth of several feet. 
At different periods bronze and 
silver medals, and a dragon of iron, 
have been discovered. The inha- 
bitants of Termonde are great 
amateurs of pictures ; there are 
several very good private collec- 
tions to be seen. David Teniers 
for a long time inhabited this town, 
and was married here. His house 
is stiU standing in the Rue de 
I'Eglise ; there is a fresco in it, 
over a mantel piece, executed by 
this distinguished artist. 

Malderen. — The church of this 
village contains several curious 
tombs of the Seigneurs of the 
country, in the sixteenth and seven- 



BELGIUM. ROUTE 14.— LOUVAIN. 



77 



teenth centuries. The province of 
Brabant terminates hera 

One burying ground serves for 
the inhabitants of Malderen and 
those of Opdorp, and there is a 
common saying on the latter, that 
" they are Flemish while they live, 
and Braban9ons when dead," 

On the right is Hombeck, a finely 
situated small village, on the Senne, 
(1,800 inhabitants). The last sta- 
tion is at the village CapeUe au 
Bois : it stands on the beautiful 
canal of Willebrock, by which 
Brussels communicates with the 
Scheldt. 

Malines is described Route 9, 
page 41. 

ROUTE 14. RAILROAD. 

MALINES TO LIEGE. 

Metres. E. Miles. 
Malines to Louvain . 23,760 — 14| 
Louvain to Tirlemont . 17,750 — 11 
Tirlemont to Waremme 27,200 — 17 
Waremme to Liege . 25,827 — 16^ 



94,537 — 59 

The first station is at Haecht, 
a village situated a little way off 
the railroad. Farther on is that of 
Wespelaer, which has been esta- 
blished for the strangers curious 
to visit the celebrated garden of 
the name; and where the trains 
only stop during the fine season, 
from the 1st of May to the 1st of 
October. 

The park of Wespelaer has been 
celebrated by Delille. It is certainly 
mort perfect, and enriched with 
every possible decoration of art 
and nature. A descrcription of 
the plants, statues, bridges, grottos, 
&c., fill a volume, which may be 
purchased on the spot, and to 
which the visitor is referred. 

LOUVAIN. 

Hotels. Suede, Cour de Mons, 
Sauvage. 

Louvain. — This town successively 
called by its inhabitants Lovenen, 
Loeven, and now Loven (or Louven) 



is built at the foot of a mountain. 
The air is pure and wholesome ; 
the soil fertile, and the waters 
generally good. It is watered by 
the Dyle and an inconsiderable 
river called the Doer. 

The town itself is built in a cir- 
cular form, about two leagues in 
circumference. The population is 
by no means proportionate to its 
extent. Within its walls may be 
found several extensive gardens 
and meadows. The walls of the 
old city were built in 1165 of white 
stone ; they boasted no less than 
eleven gates and forty strong 
towers. The former are now so 
entirely destroyed that few vestiges 
of them are left. In the fourteenth 
century Louvain ranked in the first 
class of commercial cities. The ma- 
nufactures of cloth and linen were 
most numerous. The town was so 
filled with workmen during the 
reign of Duke John the Third that 
it is said a bell always sounded at 
the hours when the factories gave 
up working, in order that parents 
should withdraw their children 
from the street, where they ran a 
great chance of being trampled on, 
or smothered, by the crowds of 
persons retiring from their work. 
Four thousand establishments for 
weaving then existed ; the number 
of persons employed in each, ave- 
raged between thirty and forty. 
This fact alone will give an idea of 
her population, which in those days 
Justus Lipsius mentions as being 
above 200,000. Of course, this 
mass of persons could not be 
entirely accommodated within the 
walls. The suburbs were there- 
fore enclosed, as they remain to 
the present day, and are still inha- 
bited. The University of Louvain 
was founded in 1426, by Duke 
John IV., sanctioned by Pope 
Martin V., who gave permission 
that every science (Theology ex- 
cepted) should be taught here. 
Justus Lipsius speaks of it as 



78 



ROUTE 14.— LOtJVAlN. VAnf U. 



containing 8,000 students. The 
fame of some of those brought up 
here, and who became leading stars 
in the hemisphere of literature, 
soon drew the attention of all 
Europe to this seat of learning ; 
and the University boasted scho- 
lars from every country. The prin- 
cipal building, called the Halle, is 
situated in the Rue de Namur, 
just behind the Town House. By 
a royal ordonnance of King Wil- 
liam, dated the 25 th September, 
1816, the University of Louvain 
was re-established, proper build- 
ings assigned to it, and was re- 
opened, with great pomp, on the 
6th of October, 1817. 

Saint Pierre. — St Peter's col- 
legiate church is the oldest parish 
church in the city, having been 
built (according to Justus Lipsius) 
by Lambert I, who took the title 
of Count of Louvain in 970. The 
nave of the church is of a bold, 
yet elegant style, which commands 
admiration. Twisted arches spring- 
ing from the ground and crossing 
the ceiling give a curious appear- 
ance to it. The chapels leading 
out of the nave are ornamented 
in a similar style. They are all 
higlily decorated. The lobbies are 
of florid architecture, curiously 
gilt, which gives a fine effect. 
There is also a figure of our 
Saviour crucified, on a colossal 
scale, placed under the dome. 
There are two small chapels in 
the lobby : they show you a cru- 
cifix in one of them, which once 
threw out its arm to defend the 
altar against the spoliation of a 
midnight robber. On the right of 
the altar there is a magnificent 
gilt tabernacle, and opposite to it 
a commtmion table, chiselled in 
fret work, by Duquesnoy. 

The high altar piece represent- 
ing ' Our Saviour delivering the 
keys of heaven to St Peter,' by 
G. de Grayer, was carried off by 
the French and taken to Paris 



with the principal pictures of the 
city. In 1816 it was brought back; 
but was not replaced in its former 
position. It may now be seen be- 
tween two pictures of Verhaegen : 
' TheVirgin and Child,' and ' The 
Good Shepherd.' 

St James's church offers little 
worth seeing ; there are some 
rather good pictures in it, among 
others ' The Conversion of St 
Hubert,' by three different masters. 
The landscape is by Arthoys ; the 
figures by Grayer r and the ani- 
mals by Snyders. This picture 
was carried off by the French, and 
restored in 1816, A tabernacle of 
a precious work deserves particut 
lar notice* 

St Gertrude was formerly the 
Ducal chapel. It was built by the 
Guild of Drapers towards the end 
of the twelfth century. The hand- 
some spire, however, was only 
finished in 1453, 

StMichael's (formerly the Jesuits) 
church is one of the finest buildings 
in this country. Of all its former 
ornaments, nothing remains except 
the communion table ; its fine 
pulpit has been removed to Brus- 
sels ; several modern pictures have 
lately been put up. 

The Town Hall is the finest 
specimen of Gothic architecture in 
Northern Europe, This superb 
building was erected at a time 
when the arts were in their highest 
perfection, and when the citizens 
of Louvain were still rich enough 
to afford a munificent sum towards 
a building, destined to hand down 
their name with eclat to after ages. 
There is nothing imposing in this 
building — there is scarcely any- 
thing striking ; but the lightness, 
the elegance of its ornamental 
architecture, commands the ad- 
miration of all who see it. It has 
twenty-eight windows, divided^into 
three floors ; between them are 
richly chiselled groups, represent- 
ing the destruction of Sodom and 



BELGIUM. ROUTE 14. — TIKLEMONT. 



79 



Gomorrha, with several other pious 
subjects finely executed. Some of 
the subjects are objectionable in 
the present enlightened day ; our 
forefathers were doubtlessly very 
good people, but a degree of gross- 
ness characterizes almost all their 
works of art. 

Louvain contains a botanical gar- 
den ; a hall of anatomy; a museum 
of natural history; and of several 
private societies. The principal 
trade is that of beer ; 200,000 bar- 
rels are said to be the average 
quantity annually brewed in this 
city. 

To establish the station of Lou- 
vam the ground has been lowered 
from 8 to 10 feet. A little farther 
off the road raises to 12 metres 
above the surroundhig country ; 
but it loAvers again before it reaches 
Vertryck, a small village contain- 
ing 500 inhabitants. 

The road then runs through a 
steep lateral talus which soon raises 
to a tremendous height, and enters 
the tmmel of Cumptich, 925 metres, 
or nearly a quarter of a league long. 
The railway is single. 

TIELEMONT. 

Hotel de Sauvage, de Coq, 

Tirlemont, a railroad station, is 
situated on the great Grette, four 
leagues east of Louvain and nine 
from Brussels. From the extent 
it covers, it must formerly have 
been (indeed it is so spoken of in 
history) a place of importance. 
Like Louvain it is now more than 
half occupied by garden land. Its 
present population is only 8,000. 
The principal square is very ex- 
tensive. The town hall and the 
church of Notre Dame are both 
fine buildings. Tirlemont is cele- 
brated as having been the birth- 
place of the learned Bollandus, 
head of the rehgious community 
styled Bollandists. 

Haekendover on the left, Wul- 



merson on the right, are the last vil- 
lages of the province of Brabant ; 
you then cross the small Gette a,nd 
find yourself in the province of 
Liege, which comprises Landen, 
still said to be a town, though it 
now contains but 800 inhabitants. 

Landen is celebrated as being 
the birth-place of Pepin de Landen, 
chamberlain under Clotaire II, 
king of France. It was formerly 
an important fortified town. There 
are still some remains of its old 
walls. Pepin died and was buried 
here in 1640. The vast plain which 
extends between Landen and Ner- 
winde has been the theatre of two 
great battles exactly a century 
apart. In 1693 Marshal Luxem- 
burg obtained a memorable victory 
over the King of England and the 
Elector of Bavaria : on the 18th 
March, 1793, General Dumouriez 
was beaten by the Austrians, after 
a battle of eleven hours, which de- 
cided the evacuation of Belgium. 

At Landen station a branch rail- 
road goes to St Trond, a small town 
in the province of Limburg, three 
leagues E. of Tirlemont, four W. of 
Tongres, and seven of Maestricht 
on the old road from Brussels to 
Liege. In the fifth century it was 
a viUage called Sarchinium ; it takes 
its present name from a nobleman 
called Trudon, who foimded there 
an abbey in 656 of the order of St 
Bernard. Charles le Temeraire, 
after the victory which he gained 
over the Liegeois in 1467, demo- 
lished the walls of the town, be- 
cause it had opened its gates to the 
rebels, and exacted that they shoidd 
deliver up to him ten of the inha- 
bitants, whom he caused to be be- 
headed. St Trond was burnt by 
the confederates in 1568. The 
principal church is rather remark- 
able ; it is situated, as well as the 
town hall, in an immense square. 
A considerable trade in lace is car- 
ried on at St Trond. Its population 
is 8,500 inhabitants. 



80 



ROUTE 14. — SPA. PART II. 



At a short distance from the sta- 
tion of Landen the road enters the 
provmce of Limburg, wherein it 
runs for a few minutes to enter 
again the province of Liege by cross- 
ing the Jaar of Geer a little way up 
Corswaren. 

Waremme, a railroad station, and 
cliief place of the canton, five leagues 
N.E. of Liege, was formerly the ca- 
pital of La Hesbaye. The church 
of tliis smaU town is very ancient : 
its foundation is attributed to Gau- 
thier the Templar, who lived m the 
12th century. Near Waremme is 
a Eoman road in good preserva- 
tion; in the environs is the chateau 
of M. Selys Longchamps. Tlie po- 
pulation of Waremme is 2,000 in- 
habitants. 

Fexhe-le-haut-Clocher, the last 
station but one, is a small village 
of 400 inhabitants, where nothing 
is worthy of notice. 

To reach Ans, the road has as- 
cended by degrees the height of 180 
metres above the level of the sea, 
viz.: more than thirty metres, equal 
to nearly a hundred feet, above the 
spire of the cathedral of Antwerp. 

The village of Ans commands 
the town of Liege and the interest- 
mg panorama of the Meuse from a 
height of about 100 metres. The 
railroad reaches the town by means 
of an inchned plane and fixed steam 
engines. The whole height from 
Liege to Ans has been divided into 
two. planes, the intermedial hori- 
zontal plane or landing-place, which 
unites them, being on a level with 
the floor of St Laurent, between 
the great barrack and the coal pit 
of La Haye. The declivity of these 
two planes is one thirty-sixth, and 
has been found the cheapest one for 
going up, as it permits the going 
down without any other help but the 
trigging of the trains. Each plane 
is served by an engine of eighty 
horse power, the common high 
pressure being twenty -five pounds 
upon an inch square; thus it will 



draw up or draw down through all 
the height of the planes a train of 
twelve waggons in less than seven 
minutes. 
Liege is described at page 53. 

EXCURSION TO SPA. 

There are two modes of reaching 
Spa from Liege, by the road through 
Theux, or by railroad to Pepinster, 
and taking a conveyance from 
thence, fare 2 frs. 50 cs., to 

SPA. 

Hotels, Flandre, York, Orange, 
Pays-Bas, besides numerous lodg- 
ing houses; charges for a bed room 
2 and 3 frs. a night. Table d'hote 
at two and three o'clock, 3 frs., break- 
fast, li fr. 

Spa is beautifully situated in a 
valley, containing only a small per- 
manent population ; the town is 
built TSi the form of a crescent, sur^ 
roimded with mountains, so that 
one cannot see it tiU you are almost 
in it. The town consists of four 
streets in form of a cross, and con- 
tains alx)ut 600 houses. The people 
are very good natured, and speak 
the same WaUon as at Liege, and 
are employed chiefly in making 
boxes for ladies' toilets, smuflP, and 
boxes, similar to Tonbridge wara 

The town is resorted to by stran- 
gers from aU parts of Europe, on 
account of its mineral water, fa- 
mous in ancient as well as in mo- 
dern history. The account Pliny 
gave of them, though some think 
he meant the waters of Tongeren,^ 
was, "that they tasted of iron, and 
were purgative ; that they cured 
certain agues and the stone ; and 
when boiled grew turpid, and at 
last of a reddish colour." There are 
four mineral fountains in and near 
this place, esteemed for their medi- 
cinal qualities. The first, called 
the Geronster, is in the middle of 
a tliick wood two miles south of 
Spa. This spring has a sulphure- 



SfitrntiMk ftOUTE 14.— SPA. 



81 



OTIS smell, and causes vomiting in 
some, but works chiefly by urine 
in the same manner as all the rest. 
The second spring, called Saviaiere, 
lies as far to the east of Spa as 
Geronster does to the south ; and 
its waters are not so strong as the 
former. The third goes by the 
name of Tonnelet, and rises in a 
meadow near the town, which con- 
tains more nitre than the rest, but 
is very cold in the mouth and sto- 
mach. The fourth and principal 
of these fountains is called Pohun, 
and is situated in the middle of the 
town ; this spring supplies most of 
the water sent abroad. 

Vast quantities of this water is 
transported into foreign countries, 
especially to England and Holland, 
sealed up in bottles with the town 
seal. The season for filling bottles 
is either in the heat of summer, 
when the water is very dry, or in 
the hardest frosts in winter, when 
it is observed to be the strongest, 
brisk, and sparkling. It is re- 
marked that these waters weigh 
two gTains in three omices more 
than those of Timbridge, and yet 
less than the common waters by 
several grains. Amidst the bloodiest 
wars this place has been respected, 
and the subjects of every bellige- 
rent state lived here in perfect union. 
Spa has lost much of its original 
splendour. A dreadful fire in 1808 
consumed nearly 200 houses. Half 
of the principal street, and the whole 
of the street near the river, were de- 
stroyed. The company, although 
not so numerous as formerly, is yet 
fashionable, and usually frequent 
the Spa in the months of June, 
July, and August. 

The following programme of the 
season at Spa will convey all the 
information the visitor will require ; 
it should however be observed that 
although the season for the waters 
only commences on the first of 
June, visitors, attracted by the 
beauty of the environs, begin arriv- 



ing early in May. In June, July, 
and August, the season may be 
said to be at its height, and the 
town is then crowded with fashion- 
ables from most parts of Europe, 
many of whom remain until late in 
October. 

Programme of the season for drink- 
ing the waters at Spa. — The opening 
of the season for the waters of Spa 
takes place on the first of Jime in 
each year. Upon the first Sunday 
of that month, the fetes commence 
by a grand baU to strangers in 
the saloon of the Eedoute. 

The visitors assemble at seven 
in the morning to drink the waters, 
after which there is : 

A musical performance every day 
at eleven in the concert room. 

A grand baU twice a week (Wed- 
nesday and Saturday). 

Dramatic performance three 
times a week, Tuesday, Thursday, 
and Sunday. 

The grand saloon opens every 
evening to company. 

Several grand balls take place 
during the season atWaux-hall and 
at the Salon Levoz. 

Music from six to eight at the 
evening promenade. 

Horse-races every year in Sep- 
tember. 

Great improvements have taken 
place in the buildings devoted to 
the reception of company. 

The municipal authorities have 
neglected nothing in order to please 
the company, and to justify more 
and more the fashionable celebrity 
of the waters of Spa ; new prome- 
nades have been created; the difler- 
ent fountains put in order and beau- 
tified; the shower and plunging 
baths have been repaired, and set 
upon the most comfortable footing. 

Principal promenades of Spa and 
its environs : 

1. The Promenade de la Mon- 
tague ; the points of view are the 
mountain of Annette and Lubin, at 
£ 2 



82 



ROUTE 14. — VERVIEES. PART II. 



the Pavilion, at the Champignon, 
and the Cafarelli rock. 

2. The Tower of the Fountains, 
across the wood; the baths of the 
Tonnelet ; the Tonnelet ; the Sau- 
veniere, where will be found the 
promenades of the Duke of Orleans, 
Prince Zangusko, and the foot path 
of the ravine formed in 1839 ; 
lastly, the Geronstere, which brings 
to recollection the park of Trainon. 

3. The walk of Reckheim : the 
view from it extending over the 
whole valley of Spa. 

4. The woods of Theux and 
Spixhe. 

5. The Hole of the Hoigne, fol- 
lowing the course of the river to 
the extent of a league, in the midst 
of rocks and woods, passing to the 
mill of Sohvastez and the cascade, 
and so return by the woods. 

6. Theux and the ruins of Pran- 
chimont. 

7. The cascade of Coo. 

8. The grotto of Eemouchamps; 
the castle of Montjardin; the ruins 
of the castle of the four sons Aymon. 

9. The pavilion of Juslenville. 

10. The valley of the Ourthe. 
By taking the old road from Spa, 
you may visit Tilf, and return by 
the route of the Vesder and Chaud- 
fontaine. 

As it is the fashion to ride much 



on horseback ut Spa, the excursions! 
are easily and pleasantly made. 

There is a readmg room near the 
Pouhon spring where the Times 
and GalignanVs Messenger may be 
read, subscription 5 frs. a month. 
The hire of a pony is 5 frs. the 
day. 

Donkeys are plentiful, and may 
be hired at 1 fr. the hour. 

Returning to the railway station, 
to 

VERVIEES. 

Hof-eJs. The Paste, Pays-Baa, 
and Emperor; the accommodation 
at the inns here is of the most com- 
mon-place description. 

This manufacturing town, con- 
taining a population of upwards of 
20,000 souls, is perhaps the most 
flourishing place of trade in Bel- 
gium. The cloth is said to be in 
great demand in Germany, Italy, 
and Switzerland ; the colours are 
well ingrafted by the pecuhar pro- 
perties of the water in the neigh- 
bourhood ; a great portion of the 
looms are constantly engaged in 
making cloth for the Belgian army. 

The town of Eupen is the fron- 
tier of Prussia ; here formerly the 
luggage and passports of travellers 
were examined. This ceremony 
now takes place at the station Aix- 
la-Chapelle. 



HAND-BOOK FOE CENTEIL EUKOPE, 



OR 



GUIDE-BOOK FOR TEAVELLERS. 



PART III. PRUSSIA. 



AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 

Hotels. — H. Nuellens, facing the 
Eliza Spring, the most pleasant part 
of the town, a large, elegantly, and 
comfortably furnished house ; with a 
convenient, airy, and pleasantly si- 
tuated salle a manger. The entire 
establishment is well conducted, with 
extreme civility and attention on the 
part of the proprietor, (Mr. Nuel- 
lens,) and his servants. 

DremeVs Grand Monarch. — This 
is a first-rate hotel, admira.bly con- 
ducted, a capital table d'hote every 
day at 5 o'clock; it is but justice to 
Mr, Dremel to state this is now one 
of the best hotels in Germany. 

Quatre Soisons. — This is an ex- 
extensive, comfortable, and clean 
house, situate on the Promenade, 
within a few yards of the Eliza 
Spring; The charges are regulated 
on the most moderate scale; during 
the season there are two table d 'botes 
at one and six o'clock. M. Koste- 
lezky is remarkably attentive to his 
guests. 

Dubigk^s Grande Hotel. — Well 
situated opposite the principal baths, 
and adjoins the Kedoute, elegantly 
furnished, comfortable, clean, and 
cheap. Table d'hote at four o'clock. 

Hotel de FEmperor (Proprietor, 
Mr. A. Habets). This house has a 
direct communication with the prin- 
cipal source of the Emperor's mineral 



baths. A table d'hote at two and 
five o'clock. 

Europe — Good second-rate house. 
The charges for refreshments and 
apartments are afiSxed to the door of 
each room ; the walls of the salle a 
manger are decorated with Gobelins 
tapestry, valued at 52,000 francs. 

Passports and luggage on arri- 
ving from Belgium, are examined at 
Aix-la-Chapelle, for the viseing the 
former ; they are collected at the last 
station before reaching Aix ; they 
may be had immediately at the office 
of the station if proceeding by the 
same train to Cologne. 

Aix-la-Chapelle, containing a 
population of 45,000 inhabitants, 
was formerly an imperial city, and 
sent deputies to the diet of the em- 
pire. It was built by the E-omans, 
was pillaged by the Huns in 451, and 
re-built by Charlemagne, who fixed 
his residence here. Its name is de- 
rived from its warm baths, and the 
chapel built by Charlemagne. The 
Emperors of Germany used to be 
crowned here with great pomp. 
Ferdinand, the brother of Charles 
V. was the last monarch who re- 
ceived the crown in this place. It 
then contained more than 100,000 
inhabitants ; but the impolitic illi- 
berality of the trading guilds or cor- 
porations, drove most of the me- 
chanics to other places. 



82 



I>RtrSSIA. — AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. PART III. 



The Town Hall is a Gothic edifice 
possessing little remarkable except 
its ancient towers, one of which is 
called the Tower of Granus, and 
was built by the Romans, and the 
spacious hall in which the Empe- 
rors dined in public on the day of 
their coronation. Opposite is a foun- 
tain, interesting on account of its 
antiquity, with a gilt copper statue 
of Charlemagne, with which it has 
been adorned, placed on a pedestal, 
in the centre of a basin, thirty feet 
in circumference. 

The Cathedral was built by Otho, 
who was crowned here in 983. Part 
of his tomb of black marble yet re- 
mains, but it has been sadly mutila- 
ted and contracted, because it was 
supposed to obstruct the view of the 
principal altar. 

The Emperors were usually crown- 
ed in the cathedral, until the middle 
of the fourteenth century, when the 
place of coronation was removed to 
Frankfort on the Maine. 

The choir of this church is an 
exquisite specimen of Gothic archi- 
tecture. The noble columns that 
once adorned the edifice were taken 
away by the French during the re- 
volution. 

Among the relics of antiquity, the 
great church contains the tomb of 
Charlemagne; but the demand for 
showing it is very exorbitant. In 
the gallery is a massive chair of white 
marble, in which his body was pla- 
ced on the tomb, and on which the 
Emperors used afterwards to sit at 
their coronations. 

A plain stone is likewise shown 
with this simple inscription, " Ca- 
rolo Magno." Underneath were de- 
posited the remains of this illus- 
trious monarch. His body was 
afterwards removed from its peace- 
ful abode ; and some golden vessels, 
richly ornamented, are exhibited, 
which are said to contain many of 
his bones. Charlemagne was born 
at Aix ; it was his favourite place 



of residence, and here he closed bis 
eventful life. 

This church contains a variety of 
curious relics, some of them are of 
inestimable value. They are en- 
closed in a shrine of silver gilt ; and 
were formerly exhibited to the sa- 
cred eyes of majesty alone. They 
are now, however, publicly displayed 
on the altar every seventh year ; 
and devotees crowd from the most 
distant parts to gaze upon them, 
and to experience the miraculous 
powers which they yet retain. They 
consist of the swaddling cloths, and 
the winding sheet of the blessed Sa- 
viour, the robe of the Virgin Mary, 
and the shroud of John the Baptist, 
cfec. cfec. 

Other relics are daily exhibited 
to those who are willing to pay for 
the privilege of beholding such 
sacred things. The catalogue of 
these is long and interesting. The 
traveller will particularly notice 
some of the manna by which the 
Israelites were miraculously fed in 
the wilderness; the leath^n girdle 
of the Saviour, and the linen one 
of his holy Mother ; some of the hair 
of the Virgin ; a fragment of the 
cross ; and the head and arm of the 
Emperor Charlemagne. The fee to 
the Sacristan to see all things amounts 
to 3 thalers. 

Previous to the revolution, this 
sacred catalogue was swelled by 
numerous other mysterious articles. 
On the approach of the French, these 
treasures were hastily conveyed into 
the interior of Germany, and placed 
under the safe custody of the Em- 
peror; but when the danger was 
passed, and the holy relics were re- 
claimed, that monarch retained some 
of them as the price of the protec- 
tion which he afforded the rest. 
Among the articles thus withheld 
were the sword of Charlemagne, some 
of the earth that was dyed with the 
blood of the martyr Stephen, and a 
copy of the Gospel written in letters 
of gold. 



PEUSSIA. EOUTE 15.— AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 



$5 



The Church of the Franciscans 
contains a 'Descent from the Cross,' 
and a ' Dead Christ,' by Rubens. 

The streets of this city are spa- 
cious, badly paved, but possess 
some handsome buildings, particu- 
larly the quarter near the railway 
station. 

Aix-la-Chapelle is principally ce- 
lebrated for its warm baths, which 
are much frequented. They con- 
tain a considerable portion of super- 
sulphurated-hydrogen gas, and are 
at the extraordinary temperature 
of 143° Fahrenheit. The taste is 
at first exceedingly nauseous to the 
stranger; but he gradually becomes 
habituated to it, and derives con- 
siderable benefit, if afflicted with 
any cutaneous or scrofulous disease. 
The external use of the baths is 
likewise remarkably efficacious in 
the cure of many cutaneous erup- 
tions. 

The waters of Aix contain like- 
wise much saline matter, princi- 
pally carbonate and muriate of 
soda, arid carbonate of lime ; they 
are, consequently, useful in cases 
of visceral obstruction, and in all 
diseases of the digestive organs. 

The principal seasons for fre- 
quenting the baths are before and 
after that of Spa, from the begin- 
ning of May to the middle of Jime, 
and from the middle of August to 
the end of September. 

The principal manufactures are 
woollen cloths, Prussian blue, 
ammonia, and white soap. The 
needle manufactory is not inferior 
to any in Europe, and will be view- 
ed with considerable interest by 
the ti:aveller, as well as the manu- 
factory of pins ; 150 or 180 pounds 
of which are often made in a week, 
each pound containing about 1,000 
pins. 

Aix-la-Chapelle lays claim to 
some peculiar immunities and pri- 
vileges. The extent of its jurisdic- 
•tion is therefore very carefully 
marked ; and a little circle not ex- 



tending a mile from the walls, and 
bounded by a simple quick-set 
hedge, is called the kingdom of 
Aix-la-Chapelle. 

The bathing establishments are 
numerous, containing bath-rooms 
most comfortably fitted up; as in 
other towns, the bath-houses also 
contain lodgings. 

The principal bath-houses are 
the Black Eagle, or Rozenbad, the 
Corneliusbad, and the Carlbad ; all 
these are opposite the Eedoute. 
Charge for a single bath 10 gros ; 
when a number are subscribed for, 
8 gros each. There are also two 
other bath-houses, the Newbad and 
the Emperor's-bad; the latter being 
nearer the source than the others, 
is much the hottest. The cold 
Steel-Bath is in the New street 
behind the theatre. 

The Fountain Elisa is under the 
colonnade, reached by two flights of 
steps. The two wings of the build- 
ing are occupied as a Cafe and Re- 
staur ante ; the band plays here 
during the season every morning 
from seven tiH eight. 

The Eedoute, or Kursaal of Aix, 
is a large building in the centre of 
the town. In the assembly-room, 
on the first fioor, the games rouge 
et noir and roulette are carried on 
at three intervals during the day, 
from eleven till one, from three tiU 
five, and from nine till eleven. On 
the tables (not the green ones) in 
this room, for the accommodation 
of strangers, are to be found the 
Times, Galignani^s, and foreign pa- 
pers from ail parts of Europe. The 
Restaurante is at the bottom of the 
staircase on the left. The other 
apartments are devoted to balls and 
re-unions : the former take place 
every Saturday (to which strangers 
are always invited), and the re- 
unions twice a-week. The spirit of 
gaming once prevailed here to such 
an extent, that the magistrates be- 
came seriously alarmed for the 
morals of the people, and forbade 



86 



PRUSSIA. — AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. PART III. 



all games of hazard, under severe 
penalties. The corporation of the 
town are now the bankers ! ! The 
inhabitants of Aix are prohibited 
from playing, or even from entering 
the rooms, except on the last day 
of the season. 

The Theatre is well situated ; 
large, and handsomely fitted up. 
Performances on Sundays, Mon- 
days, Wednesdays, and Fridays. 
Admission 20, 15, 10 gros. 

Hackney Coaches. — The princi- 
pal stands are opposite the theatre, 
and at the entrance to the Redoute. 

Hackney Coaches with one horse, 
and omnibuses, take passengers to 
and from the railway station, with 
or without luggage, for 4 gros 
each. 

Vigilantes with two horses, one 
person, 8 gros ; two persons, 10 
gros ; three or four persons, 12 
gros. Hire by the hour, two horses, 
20 gros ; the course, 8 gros. 

Divine Service is performed re- 
gularly every Sunday morning, at 
half-past eleven, by a resident Eng- 
lish clergyman, in the German Pro- 
testant Church, St Anne-strasse ; 
an authorised collector calls for 
contributions on all English visi- 
tors. 

Banker and Money - Changer. — 
The firm of S. Sutro and Co., 431, 
under the colonnade of the Redoute, 
will be found highly respectable, 
where the full value is given for all 
kinds of security. 

Omnibuses attend the arrival of 
the trains, to convey travellers to the 
various hotels ; fare, including lug- 
gage, 5 s. gros, 

Reading - room and Library of 
Mr Mayer, in Biichel-strasse, is 
well supplied with English news- 
papers and books. Mr M. is agent 
to the General Steam Navigation 
Company. 

Booksellers. — There are several 
respectable booksellers in Aix-la- 
Chapelle. The principal are Mr 
Mayer and Mr Boisseree. 



Post-office, situated a long way 
beyond the Market place, is open 
from eight in the morning till eight 
in the evening ; letters via Ostend 
arrive four times a week. The 
postage of letters to England must 
be paid to Ostend ; a single letter 
costs 5 gros. 

Malles Estafettes leave Aix for 
Liege every night, at a quarter past 
nine, from the post-ofiice ; fare, 5 
frs. 50 cents. 

Objects of interest in the Environs. 

The hill of Louisburg affords a 
noble view of the city and neigh- 
bouring country. An obelisk was 
erected upon it in honour of Na- 
poleon. After his retreat from Sax- 
ony, the Cossacks hurled it from 
its situation, and completely de- 
stroyed even the foundation, to 
obtain the coins that were depo- 
sited there. The King of Prussia 
has caused the obelisk to be again 
erected, but it bears evident marks 
of the injury it sustained. 

On the side of the hill is a cha- 
pel, crowded with images, concern- 
ing each of which some pious but 
incredible legend is told. A long 
procession of devout worshippers 
issues from Aix every Lent to 
prostrate themselves before these 
sacred shrines. On Sunday af- 
ternoons crowds of fashionables 
drive to the Louisberg, and in- 
dulge In tea, coffee, ices, smok- 
ing, and sometunes dancing ; the 
view is magnificent, and the scene 
itself is worth going miles to 
witness ; an excellent band is al- 
ways in attendance. The Rail- 
way Viaduct. The ramparts. The 
Roman street, near Frankenberg 
(Old Castle). The Kaisersruhe, 
magnificent garden, the residence 
of the Russian Emperor during the 
Congress in 1818. The Forest of 
Pauline (the name of Napoleon's 
sister). The Drymborn, a small 
but beautiful forest. The Schon- 
forst, an old ruin. The Emma 



P&US8IA. ROUTE 15.— AIX-LA-CHAPELLE TO COLOGNE. 



87 



Castle (Bourg), habitation of Char- 
lemagne, Laurensberg, a village 
near Aix, commanding a beautiful 
view. 

The scenery on the North of Aix 
is exceedingly diversified and pic- 
turesque, especially on and around 
the hills of Salvatorberg and Wein- 
gartsberg. 

The most frequented walks are 
the Boulevards, the park of Drims- 
bors, the promenade of Mount 
Louis, and the road to Borcette. 

BORCETTE. 

A quarter of a mile out of Aix 
close to the Railway station, is the 
romantic town of Borcette, with a 
manufacturing population of 6,000 
inhabitants : the chief trade is 
cloth, and needles. The hot springs 
here are similar to those of Aix, 
except the Campus; and many who 
frequent Aix for the benefit of the 
waters, prefer the retirement of 
this village to the bustle of a large 
town : at all events a walk to Bor- 
cette to drink the waters in the 
mornmg might be adviseable; the 
road to it is up the New Street be- 
hind the theatre, under the Eail- 
way Viaduct. 

ROUTE 15. RAILROAD. 

AIX-LA-CHAPELLE TO COLOGNE. 

Nine and a quarter German, 
forty-five English miles. 

The journey occupies two hours 
by the quick trains, and three by 
the others. 

Railway trains three times a day 
to Cologne. Eares: Eirst Class, two 
thlr.. Second Class, one thlr. 15 gr., 
Third Class, one thlr. 



Stations. 
Aix to Stolberg . . . 
Stolberg to Eschweiler . 
Eschweiler to Langerweh 
Langerweh to Duren 
Duren to Buir . . . 
Buir to Horrem . . . 
Horrem to Konigsdorf . 
Konigsdorf to Cologne . 



G 



mil. 

X 
2 
1 

It 

n 



E. mil. 
— 5i 



2i 
5 

n 

i - H 

H — 44 



Omnibuses attend the arrival of 
the trains at Cologne to conduct 
passengers to the Hotels or to the 
Bonn railway. Eare for each per- 
son with a reasonable quantity of 
lugguge 5 s. gros. 

COLOGNE. 

Hotels. Grand Cour Imperial, 
near the Post office and Cathedral, 
a table d'hote every day at two 
o'clock, price 24 s. g. This is a first- 
rate house, and now well conducted 
by Madame Disch and her sons. 
In consequence of this house being 
some distance from the Rhine, an 
omnibus attends the arrival of the 
steamers to convey travellers to the 
hotel gratis. 

Grand Hotel Boyal A large es- 
tablishment overlooking the Rhine. 
H Holland. A large excellently- 
arranged house ; the apartments, 
are well furnished, and the accom- 
modations very good ; the windows 
overlooking the Rhine, and the bel- 
vedere on the top of the house, 
command extensive views. 

Germanisherhof (German hotel), 
close to the cathedral, and the pro- 
posed terminus of Belgian railway, 
Quiet, and charges reasonable. 

H Ca%ne, nearthelandingplace 
of the steamers; good and moderate . 
Grosser Rhineberg, facing the 
bridge, worse than ever. 

Hotel Belle- Vue, at Deutz, op- 
posite Cologne, a dehghtfully situ- 
ated hotel ; the view (extending the 
whole length of the town) seen from 
the windows is peculiarly striking ; 
every evening during the summer 
a military band performs some of 
the most delightful music; the 
accommodations are excellent, and 
the charges moderate. Average 
charges at the hotels are : — 

Ths. G. Eng. 

Breakfast with eggs 

Dinner 

Bottle of table wine 
Tea or Coifee . . 
Bed 



12 about Is. 3d. 
24 - 2 6 
16 - 1 8 
8 - 10 
16 - 1 8 



The accounts are kept at Aix-la- 



88 



ROUTE 15. — COLOGNE. GERMAN DINNER. PART III. 



Chapelle, Cologne, Bonn, and Cob- 
lentz, in thalers (about three shil- 
lings), silver groschen (penny far- 
thing), and pfennings, 360 of which 
make a thaler or dollar. 

There are also pieces of one-half, 
a third, a fourth, a sixth, and a 
twelfth of a thaler ; and pieces of 
one, three, four, and six pfennings. 

Table d'hote. — The dinner-hour 
here, and at most of the pubHc 
tables in Germany, is one o'clock. 
As in France, every description of 
person and country are to be found 
seated round them ; at some the 
number of your bed-room, painted 
on a piece of tin, is placed next the 
plate selected by the waiter. 

To give a stranger an idea of a 
German dinner the following va- 
riety composed the dinner at one 
of the hofs : I took it down in pen- 
cil at the time, in the order they 
were handed round — I say handed 
round, for after the covers are 
taken oflf the dishes, the dishes are 
taken off the table, and the joints, 
poultry, &c., carved at the side- 
board — soup, bouilli, sausages, 
tongue, potatoes, parsnips, cabbage, 
calf's head in batter, cutlets, kid- 
neys (good), fish-pudding, roast 
fowls, salad, stewed pears, fried 
pudding, and shoulder of mutton 
roast. I then folded up the inven- 
tory and put the pencil in my 
pocket, but was obliged to resume 
it to announce the appearance of a 
huge piece of roast beef, by way of 
a, finisher. 

Cologne, a free port, formerly 
one of the most flourishing in 
Germany, extends in the form of 
a crescent, along the left bank of 
the Rhine. The length of the city 
on the banks of the river, from the 
tower of Bayenthurm to that called 
Thurmchen (turret), is nearly a 
league. 

Cologne now contains about 
80,000 inhabitants, including 3,975 
mihtary ; there are 70,938 Catho- 
lics, 6,481 Protestants, and 784 



Jews. The number of gates of 
Cologne are nineteen, seven in- 
habited walls, thirty-four public 
squares, 284 streets, 8,011 houses, 
including 169 manufactories, 226 
churches, chapels, schools, and pub- 
lic buildings. 

Before the occupation of it by 
the French, it contained 12,000 
mendicants, who had particular 
stations, which they left as an in- 
heritance to their children. There 
were then 2,500 ecclesiastics of both 
sexes. 

Cathedral. — One of the greatest 
curiosities in this city, and indeed 
the only thing worth seeing , is the 
cathedral, wMch, although never 
finished, may be considered one of 
the finest monuments of ancient 
German architecture. Archbishop 
Engelberg, of Berg, planned this 
building; and his successor, Conrad, 
of Hochstetten, commenced it in 
1248. The work was carried on 
till 1499. 

It is built in the form of a cross ; 
the arches are supported by a qua- 
druple row of sixty -four columns, 
including the semi-columns, and 
those of the portico; there are more 
than one hundred. The four co- 
lumns in the middle are thirty feet 
in circumference ; and each of the 
hundred columns is surmounted by 
a chapiter difierent from the others. 
The two towers, which were in- 
tended to be five hundred feet high, 
remain unfinished ; the northern 
one is not more than twenty-one 
feet above the ground, and the 
other is little more than half the 
intended height. In the latter is 
the great bell, which weighs 25,000 
pounds. It requires twelve men 
to put it in motion, and when it 
strikes, causes the inmaense tower 
to shake. At the top of this tower 
may still be seen the crane used in 
raising the stones brought from the 
moimtain of Drachenfels, one en- 
trance of which now bears the name 
of the Cathedral Quarry. This 



PRUSSIA. ROUTE 15. COLOGNE. CATHEDRAL. 



89 



tower likewise commands a fine 
view of the whole city of Cologne. 

Only the choir of the church and 
the chapels surromiding it have 
been finished. The columns in the 
nave of the church terminate at 
a ceiling, composed with simple 
planks, covered with slates. In the 
choir is a beautiftd marble reading- 
desk ; and the grand altar is covered 
with a superb table of black marble, 
sixteen feet long and nine broad. 
Befere it stand four immense brass 
candlesticks. This altar is orna- 
mented with two modem statues, 
those of Mary and Peter, which 
rest on each side of it as wings. 
They are carved in wood, and 
painted white. In the middle is a 
tabernacle, decorated with seven 
columns, the idea of which was 
taken from a passage in the 
Proverbs of Solomon (chap, ix, 1 
and following) : "Wisdom hath 
builded her house, she hath hewn 
out her seven pillars," &c. These 
words may be seen in Latin on the 
back of the altar. The columns, 
which are of white marble, are 
fluted, and superbly ornamented 
with chapiters and cornices. The 
whole of this work is of a strange 
taste, not at aU according with the 
fine architecture of the cathedral. 

This altar has been put in the 
place of a chef d'oeuvre of the plastic 
art, which had been destroyed. It 
consisted of an antique monument, 
of the greatest perfection, which 
was in harmony with the rest of 
the building ; it was a very plain 
table, supported by black feet, and 
covered with an abacus, the sides 
of which were ornamented with 
figures in demi-rehef, of white 
marble. The chandehers were placed 
in the centre of this table. The 
walls of the sanctuary were covered 
on one side by a majestic tabernacle, 
and on the other by several rows 
of high seats. On the four corners 
of the altar were four bronze co- 
lumns borne by genii. This asto- 



nishing work was more than sixty 
feet high, and reached to the roof. 
It was considered a fine specimen 
of ancientGerman architecture ; but 
it was broken and thrown down in 
1769, in consequence of the advice 
of some ignorant members of the 
chapter. The little harmony be- 
tween the structure of the cathedral 
and the form of the present altar, 
constructed at great expense, oflends 
the eyes of every connoisseur, and 
has a particularly bad effect. 

The two tombs in the choir, 
which contain the remains of two 
brothers, Adolphus and Anthony, 
counts of Schauenburg (both arch- 
bishops of Cologne), are orna- 
mented with figures of white 
marble, and with foliage in demi- 
relief. 

The walls of the choir are covered 
with tapestry, the designs of which 
were taken from several drawings 
by Kubens. It is said, that these 
tapestries were given to the church 
by Count Furstenburg, who wished 
to become archbishop. 

The stone statues of the twelve 
apostles, clothed in robes embroi- 
dered with gold, which are situated 
on one side of the column, may 
likewise be considered as beautiful 
monuments of old German sculp- 
ture. 

Over the entrance to the choir is 
an excellent organ. The paintings 
on the windows in the interior of 
the choir, and in the north side of 
the nave, are weU worthy of atten- 
tion. Amongst the numerous 
figures composing these pictures 
are the arms of several ancient, 
noble, and patrican families; namely, 
those of Hartfust, Overstolp, and 
Wisen. 

Behind the grand altar is the 
chapel of the three kings, who, it is 
pretended, worshipped our Saviour. 
It is constructed of marble, and is 
of the Ionic order. It was built by 
the elector Maximilian Henry of 
Bavaria. After the taking and 



90 



EOtJTfi 16.— COLOGKE. CATHEDRAL. PABT III. 



entire destruction of the city of 
Milan, Frederick I, of the house of 
Hohenstaufen, presented to arch- 
bishop Eeinold of Cologne, who had 
accompanied him in his expedition, 
the bones of the tliree Magi, which 
were deposited by the latter in this 
chapel in 1170. The old tomb, in 
which are the remains of the three 
kings, and of the martyrs, Nabor 
and Gregor of Spoleto, was robbed, 
during the troubles of the French 
revolution, of a great part of its 
treasure. The tomb was divided, 
as may still be seen, into three 
parts. The lower part, which is 
the most spacious, contained the 
bones of the three kings, whose 
heads were placed separately in the 
middle, on the lid of which are 
three names, formed by rubies, 
Caspar, Melckior, BaUhasar. These 
heads were ornamented with very 
valuable gold crowns, each of which 
weighed six pounds, and was richly 
adorned with diamonds and rubies. 
In the part above the lid of the 
middle were the bodies of St Felix 
and St Nabor ; and in the upper 
part are the bones of St Gregory. 
The heads of these three latter 
were contained in silver busts, 
which were used to ornament the 
altar on fast days. 

The chest which contained the 
above-mentioned reliques was orna- 
mented with bas-reliefs, represent- 
ing arches supported by small co- 
lumns, enamelled with great beauty. 
All the inscriptions were in Latin, 
and the letters in gold, on a ground 
of blue enamel. The cornices and 
borders were ornamented with a 
great number of precious stones, 
pearls, and gems. The grand chapter 
of Cologne having fled to Arem- 
berg in Westphalia, in 1794, took 
with it a great part of the treasures 
of the cathedral, amongst which 
was the tomb just mentioned. In 
1804 it was returned to Cologne, 
but in a very diiFerent state. The 
sculptures had been much disfi- 



gured in the carriage, and some of 
them wholly destroyed. Many of 
the precious stones, gems, and 
enamels were lost, and others 
broken. The superb crowns were 
likewise wauting, and have been 
replaced by others, which are only 
of gilt metal, ornamented with 
pearls. Everything that was pos- 
sible has been done to restore this 
chest of reliques to its original state; 
and the effort has met with con- 
siderable success, under the direc- 
tion of Professor Walraff. The 
curiosities have been replaced by 
gilt metals of exquisite workman- 
ship ; and partly by gems, precious 
stones, and enamels given by the 
inhabitants of Cologne. 

The shrine may be seen by pur- 
chasing a ticket of the beadle-look- 
ing personage, who is constantly 
upon the look out for customers, 
but the extravagant demand for 
the same (six francs) deters many 
from gratifying their optics ; make 
up a party, and divide the expense. 

Before the chapel of the three 
kings are the tombs of the arch- 
bishops of the house of Bavaria. 
Their monuments and epitaphs de- 
corate the walls, which are covered 
with marble. The remains of Queen 
Mary de Medicis are likewise de- 
posited in this place. 

In the chapels around the choir 
may be seen the tomb of archbishop 
Philip of Heinsberg ; the bronze 
statue of Conrad, of Hochstetten, 
was lately damaged, and the silver 
coffin of St Engelbert, the chasing 
of which is admirable. 

An old picture of 1410, represent- 
ing the tutelary saint of the town, 
which has been some years placed 
in one of the chapels of the choir, 
likewise merits observation. In the 
cathedral also is a curious picture 
of the Adoration of the Magi, 
painted by Filp Kalf in 1406. 

A staircase on the left side of the 
choir, close to the eighth pillar, leads 
to the library of the cathedral ; and 



I'RtJSSlA. ROUTE 15. — COLOGNE. CHURCHES. 



91 



to the hall called Goldene Kammer 
(Golden Chamber). The library 
formerly contained a very fine col- 
lection of books, and a great nrnn' \ 
ber of manuscripts of the time of j 
Charlemagne, all of which were 
taken away during the revolution. 
The doors of the library are 
curiously carved, and the ward- 
robes contain the dresses of the 
priests. The golden chamber, on 
the side of the library, likewise con- 
tained a treasury, with numerous 
curiosities, before the invasion of 
the French, Amongst them were 
several beautiful chandeliers, a 
superb box, richly ornamented with 
diamonds, a gilt crosSj decorated 
with diamonds, the statues of the 
twelve apostles, in silver gilt, &c. 
This treasure was carried to Arem- 
berg, but only part of it was re- 
stored in 1804. The King of Prussia 
annually devotes a considerable sum 
towai'ds the restoration of this an- 
cient building, besides| other sums 
collected and set apart for this laud- 
able purpose. 

The Church of St Mary, of the 
Capitol, is situated in the district 
where the Capitol of the Romans 
formerly was, still caUed the Mount 
of the Capitol. Plectrude, wife of 
Pepin and mother of Charles Martel, 
founded the church and convent of 
this name. Her statue may be 
seen on the Avail behind the choir 
towards the street ; but her tomb 
which has a Latin inscription 
on it, is in the church before 
the choir. Opposite this tomb, 
is that of St Ida, who was a relation 
of Plectrude, and the first abbess 
of the convent. The upper part of 
the choir, and the colonnade of 
round arches, were built in the 
eighth century, but the greater part 
of the church, particularly the top 
of the nave, appears to have been 
re -constructed in the fourteenth, 
the church having sufiered much 
during the invasion of the Normans. 
In this church are several ancient 



pictures from the ancient church 
of St Martin, amongst which there 
are some by A. Braun, an artist 
who was contemporary with Ru" 
bens It has likewise a superb 
organ, made by the celebrated 
Konig, senior, of Cologne, who also 
made the one at Nyraegen. 

The church of St Gereon and of 
the Martyrs was built in 1066, by 
Archbishop Anno, on the same spot 
on which the temple erected by St 
Helena formerly stood. Its cupola* 
with three galleries, is a grand and 
astonishing work, and the church 
is certainly one of the finest in 
Cologne. St Gereon and his brave 
warriors are buried there, and in 
tlie church may be seen the heads 
of these martys. In a vault, called 
Crypta, under the church, are two 
chapels, the floors of which are 
ancient mosiac work. A highly- 
polished column, of black and white 
granite, twelve feet high, which 
had been at this church since the 
time of the empress Helena, was 
taken to Paris by the French, with 
the columns of the Aix-la-Chapelle. 
On the side of the altars, at the 
entrance of the church, are two 
pictures by C Schiit and Geldorf, 
two artists of Cologne. 

The church of St Cunibert, near 
the Rhine, is a large building. The 
altar is in imitation of the grand 
altar of St Peter's, at Rome. The 
door is ornamented with sculptures 
in the style of the eleventh century. 
The tomb of St Cunibert, which 
was much celebrated for its an- 
tique ornaments, was greatly 
injured during the government of 
the French. A large antique cup 
of coloured sardonyx, ornamented 
with a valuable precious stone, was 
broken by some ignorant jewellers, 
and the stone sold at a very low 
price to a Pole, 

The Church of the Apostles, 
near the New Square, is likewise a 
superb monument of ancient Ger- 
man architecture of the eleventh 



92 



ROUTE 15. — COLOGNE. CHURCHES.— PART ni. 



or twelfth century; but it has been 
partly disfigured by modern archi- 
tecture. 

The church of St Peter is also 
very ancient. It was, no doubt, 
built on the ruins of a Roman 
temple, the vestibule of which still 
exists. Rubens, who was baptized 
in this church on St Peter's day, 
composed for it a beautiful picture 
of the crucifixion of that apostle. 
This painting has always been con- 
sidered one of his chef-d'ceuvres, 
and contains everything for which 
the great artist was distinguished ; 
although it must be confessed that 
Rubens has not chosen the time 
well, a defect that has been attri- 
buted to Guido Reni, in a similar 
composition. This picture was 
taken away by the French, in 1804, 
and conveyed to Paris, but it has 
since been restored to the church. 
While this picture was at the 
Louvre, a copy of it, the same size, 
was made by a Prussian student, 
and this is now exhibited as well 
as the original ; the former being 
placed on one side of the ffame, 
and the latter on the other. 

The font in which Rubens was 
baptized is still shown here, as well 
as the tombstone of his father. 

The ancient Convent of the 
Ladies of St Ursula is remarkable 
for its relation to the legend of that 
saint and her eleven thousand 
virgins. All the church is filled 
with bones, which are curiously 
disposed in glass cases and frames 
of various sizes. Some of these 
cases contain twenty-four, and 
others from ninety to one hundred 
skulls. On the right side, near 
the entrance, is an apartment called 
Goldene Kammer (golden chamber), 
in which are preserved the heads 
of many of these eleven thousand 
virgins. The history is represented 
in fifteen pictures in the choir, 
which are copies of the originals. 
These, however, are also kept here, 
having been restored since the 



peace. The saint, with her nume- 
rous train, is seen landing at the 
harbour of Cologne from a large 
vessel. The painting of the grand 
altar, representing the death of St 
Ursula, is by C. Schutt, and the 
other two on the side of it are by 
Hergotts. In one of the chapels is 
a Holy Family, copied from Ra- 
phael. There is also an Archangel 
from the same great master. The 
originals are at Paris. 

The Church of the Assumption, 
or the ancient church of the Jesuits, 
is not remarkable for the beauty of 
its architecture, but the interior is 
decorated with ornaments, the 
principal of which is a superb 
bench of white marble for the com- 
municants, with arabesques and 
bas-reliefs. Near the grand altar 
are several pictures, painted by 
Schiitt. The walls of the choir 
are embellished with figures of the 
twelve apostles. The pulpit, the 
organ, and the floor, which is of 
marble, are also very profusely 
ornamented. There are several 
cases likewise in this church con- 
taining skulls. 

The Town house of Cologne is 
preserved as a relic of antiquity. 
It has a marble portal, composed of 
two arches, placed one above ano- 
ther, the upper of which is in the 
Roman style, and the lower of the 
Corinthian order. The spaces be- 
tween are filled with bas-reliefs. 
The tower, which is of a singular 
form, commands a fine view of the 
city and its environs. The Town 
house formerly contained several 
pictures and pieces of tapestry, 
but these have been removed to 
Berlin. 

The building called the Kafhaus 
of Gurzenich (commercial depot), 
has a very large hall, where several 
Diets of the empire have been held, 
and in which the Emperor Maximi- 
lian gave several fetes. 

The Theatre, erected in 1829, is 
capable of holding nearly two thou- 



PRUSSIA. ROUTE 15. — COLOGNE. — EAU DE COLOGNE. 



sand spectators. Cologne has a 
regular company, who, during the 
winter, play six times a week. 

The Exchange, in the Khine 
Strasse, was erected hy public sub- 
scription in 1843. 

The site of the house No. 10, 
Sternengasse, was the birthplace 
of the celebrated P. P. Rubens, and 
the residence of Queen Mary de 
Medicis. 

The Museum contains Homan 
antiquities, found in the neigh- 
bourhood ; a large collection of 
paintings, some of them 400 years 
old. 

The Casino, situated near the the- 
atre, is a modern building, into 
which strangers may be introduced 
by a member ; the innkeepers ge- 
nerally belong to these societies 
all through Germany, who always 
seem proud of introducing a tra- 
veller. 

The Exchange Coffee house, in 
the Haymarket, near the Rhine^ is 
a new establishment fitted up in 
an elegent style a la Fran^ais; re- 
freshments a la carte, coffee, wines, 
ices, &o., are supplied at reasonable 
prices. The Times and Gaiig?imiPs 
Messenger are taken in. 

Booksellers. — There are several 
respectable establishments' in Co- 
logne; the most convenient for tra- 
vellers is that of Mr. Eisen, near the 
bridge, who has always on sale a 
large assortment of maps, panora- 
mas, and guide books. 

Manufacture and commerce form 
the principal support of the inha- 
bitants of Cologne. The cotton 
and silk manufactories hold the first 
rank. Cologne has likewise seven 
manufactories, where different kinds 
of cotton articles are made, such 
as neck and pocket handkerchiefs, 
nankeens, coarse cotton cloths, caps, 
gloves, flannel waistcoats, &c. 
There are also several snuff manu- 
factories. 

Emc de Cologne. — Of the thou- 
sands of travellers that pass through 



Cologne, few think pf leaving with- 
out making a purchase of Eau de 
Cologne, an indispensable appendage 
to the toilet ; of course nothing can 
be more easy than to purchase this 
article; Jean Maria Farina is 
marked upon all sides; the pack- 
ages are the same as the genuine 
Johann Maria Farina, the printed 
labels are the same, the bottles have 
his name upon them, and even the 
papers in which they are wrapped 
are apparently the very same : the 
price is the same. You make pre- 
sents to your friends, you commence 
using your purchase yourself, and 
then you discover that you have 
been taken in, and that you have 
purchased an inferior article, hav- 
ing paid at least the price of the 
very best ; the persons that im- 
portime you in the street are hired 
by vendors of the inferior article. 

There are no less than seventy-five 
producers of Cologne water, out of 
which there are but two that make 
the double. Eau de Cologne, these 
are C. A. Zanoli, specially appointed 
purveyors to the Emperors of Russia 
and Austria, King of Prussia, vfec. ; 
the original J. M. Farina, in Julieh's 
place. 

Navigation of the Rhine. There 
are two companies which now con- 
vey passengers from Cologne up and 
down the Rhine ; the Steam Navi- 
gation Company of the Lower and 
Middle Rhine, established in 1838, 
under the name of the ' Dusseldorf 
Company,^ and the Rhenish Steam 
Navigation Cologne Company, es- 
tablished in 1827. The boats of 
the two companies are distinguish- 
able by the chimneys of the Dussel- 
dorf Company being painted white 
and black ; those of the Rhenish 
Steam Navigation Company en- 
tirely black. 

It is necessary to be able to dis- 
tinguish the boats of one company 
from the other, as travellers will in 
some cases find it convenient and 
to their advantage to take a tieke< 



94 



ROUTE 16. — COLOGNE. PART III. 



for the whole voyage out and home, 
under the denomination of " per- 
sonal tickets ;" to such, a deduction 
of twenty-five per cent, from the 
charges given in the tariffis allowed : 
an important consideration to large 
parties and families, but except in 
such cases this plan is not recom- 
mended. 

From April to the 1st of Novem- 
ber, the former company's boats go 
three times a day from Cologne to 
Mayence ; twice a day from May- 
ence to Mannheim ; the Dusseldorf 
Company twice a day from Cologne 
to Mayence, and once a day from 
Mayence to Mannheim ; from Mann- 
heim the Baden railroad is now open 
to Carlsruhe, Baden-Baden, Kehl, 
(Strasbourg), Offenbourg and Fri- 
bourg, and will shortly be opened to 
Basle, on the Gei'man side of 
the B,hine, saving the annoyance of 
passing through Custom-house forms 
at Strasbourg. 

Travellers may, when they think 
proper, land at any of the interme- 
diate places at which the boats stop, 
I'esuming their journey at their plea- 
sure by any of the other boats of the 
company; they have thus not only 
an opportunity of reviewing the 
towns on the banks of the Bhine, 
but may make excursions of several 
hours to see line scenery or curiosi- 
ties in the neighbocrhood of the 
river ; a table d'hote and refresh- 
ments of the best description are to 
be found on board of the whole of 
the Bhine Steamers ; and upon the 
wine card the prices of the wines 
provided (which are of superior qua- 
lity) are marked on a very moderate 
scale. 

Travellers having any complaint 
to make, are requested to write it in 
the book that is kept on board each 
boat for the purpose ; they may de- 
pend upon its being strictly examined 
into by the committee, the fault 
rectified, and the party committing 
it punished. 



FARES FROM COLOGNE BY 


BOTH 


COMPANIES. 






Pavilion. 


First 
Saloon. 


Second 
Saloon. 




fr. 


OS. 


fr. 


cs. 


fr. cs. 


To Bonn . . 


2 


50 


1 


75 


— 90 


,, Neuwied . 


11 


40 


7 


65 


3 25 


,, Coblentz . 


13 


15 


8 


75 


3 75 


,, Bingen . . 


21 


90 


14 


65 


6 50 


,, Creuznach 


23 


40 


16 


15 


8 — 


„ Biebrich . 


24 


75 


]6 


50 


7 40 


„ Wisbaden . 


25 


50 


17 


25 


8 15 


,, Mayence . 


25 


— 


16 


75 


7 50 


„ G-ernsheim 


28 


65 


19 


15 


9 15 


„ Darmstadt 


30 





20 


50 


10 50 


,, Mannheim 


32 


75 


21 


90 


11 — 



A company of five persons or 
under, can hire the pavilion for their 
exclusive use, for which they have to 
pay seven times the pavilion fare, 
and for every person above five, in 
addition the fare in the first cabin. 
The same is applicable to the para- 
graph respecting fares at page 21. 

BOUTE 15. A. BAILBOAD. 

COLOGNE (DEUTZ) TO DUSSELDORF, 
DUISBURG, AND HANN. 

Part way to Hanover and Berlin. 

Trains leave Deutz at 5 30, 8 30, and 
10 45 A.M., 4 P.M., and 6 45 p M., 
the first, third and fifth trains to 
Buisburg only. Fares to Dusseldorf, 
first clasps 30 S. gros ; second class, 

24 S; gros ; third class, 15 S. gros. 
To Duisburg, first class, 50 S. gros ; 
second class, 38 S. gros ; third class, 

25 S. gros. 

BOUTE 16. BAILBOAD. 

COLOGNE TO BONN. 

Trains leave several times a day. 
Fares, first class, 14 gros ; second 
class, 10 gros; third class, 7f gros. 

The opening of the railroad be- 
tween Cologne and Bonn, which 
took place on the 15th of February, 
1844, now offers many advantages. 
By the railroad to Bonn, and tak- 
ing the steamer there, an uninte- 
resting voyage of three hours' dura- 
tion will be saved, thus allowing 
travellers an opportunity of taking 



PRUSSIA. ROUTE 17- — BONN. 



95 



their natural rest until peven o'clock, 
instead of being knocked up by halt- 
sleeping porters at half-past three in 
the morning. It is therefore recom- 
mended to sleep at Bonn, instead of 
Cologne, the nigLt previous to your 
intended ascent of the Rhine. After 
seeing the sights at Cologne, proceed 
to Bonn, where several excellent ho- 
tels, possessing every accommodation, 
will be found. 

The railroad occupies but forty- 
five minutes from Cologne to Bonn. 

Second class carriages are very 
good. Ask for one where smoking is 
not allowed. 

ROUTE 17. THE RHINE. 

COLOGNE TO BONN. 

*#* Observe that every object on the left bank 
ii described on the right. 

Villages between Cologne and Bonn : 

On the right, Roden Kirchen, 
Weiss, Sturdt, Godorf, Wesseling, 
XJvedorf, Hersel. Opposite the 
mouth of the river Seig is the vil- 
lage Graurheindorf, with an ancient 
convent of nuns. On the left Poll ; 
and two leagues from Cologne is 
Zundorf, where a considerable trade 
is carried on. Merchandise, from 
the manufactories in the grand duchy 
of Berg, are sent from this place, and 
w ines from Mayence and the Moselle 
are conveyed thence to the Lower 
Rhine, Langel, at Lulsdorf, a toll- 
bouse, was formerly erected by the 
Duke of Juliers. Neid-Cassel and 
Rheidt are surrounded with vineyards 
and arable lands. Here first appear 
in sight the celebrated seven moun- 
tains, Mundorf. Near the bank is 
the island of Grapenworth. At 
Schwarz Rheindorf formerly was a 
convent of noble ladies, founded in 
11 52 by the Elector Arnaud of Weda. 

Grajid Hotel Royal. — This large 
and elegant establishment is now the 
first hotel in Bonn, beautifully situ- 
ated, communicating by a large gar- 



den with the banks of the Rhine. 
The numerous handsomely furnished 
rooms command extensive views of 
the Rhine, the seven mountains, 
Godesberg, &c. There are two ex- 
cellent table d'hotes every day, at 
one and four o'clock ; hot and cold 
baths on the premises, the reading 
room is supplied with English, Ger- 
man, and French papers, and an 
omnibus belonging to the hotel at- 
tends the arrival of the steamers and 
railway trains. 

Star (Stern).— This old established 
house, once celebrated as being tha 
best stopping place in Bonn, although 
increased in size, is sadly fallen oif 
in every other respect. 1'he 20,000 
thalers expended by the proprietor in 
the erection of a large dining room 
must be inade up some way, hence 
the extravagant charges and scanty 
dinners for which this house is noto- 
rious. 

Treves Hotel, in the market place, 
a well-conducted and good house, 
offering every accommodation for 
travellers. 

Hotel de Cologne, a very quiet 
moderate house, suitable for small 
families and others seeking economy. 
Table d'hote at one o'clock, 16 S. 
gros ; beds, 16 S. gros; breakfast, 
10 S. gros. 

Hotel Belle Vue. 

The steam packets stop at Bonn 
both going up and down, and take 
in passengers and carriages ; excur- 
sions to Godesberg, only thi^ee miles 
from Bonn, Nonnenworth, and the 
Drachenfells, can be made in two 
days. The morning of the first day 
to the Kreuzberg and museum of 
Poppelsdorf; in the afternoon visit 
the University, Munster Church, 
and the public gardens. The se- 
cond day visit the island of Non- 
nenworth, ascend the Drachenfels, 
and Godesberg. 

The city of Bonn has a pleasant 
appearance, and contains about 



96 



ROUTE 17. — BONN. PART III, 



1,300 houses, and 15,000 inhabi- 
tants. The most remarkable build- 
ing is the University, which is 
capable of accommodating one 
thousand students ; at present there 
are about five hundred. In this 
building are the beautiful fresco 
pictures, executed by scholars of 
the celebrated Cornelius. Its front 
overlooks the most beautiful part 
of the environs, where niay be seen, 
on one side, the Rhine, with the 
Seven Mountains, and on the other, 
the charming hills in front of Pop- 
plesdorf. It comprises schools of 
surgery and medicine, a lying-in 
hospital, a library, occupying what 
was the Knights' Hall, and the 
royal museum of antiquities, which 
contains a fine winged head of Mer- 
cury, dug up at Hadernheim in 1821. 
The chapel is devoted to the Protes- 
tant faith. The University was 
originally founded by Maximilian, 
the last elector, and brother of the 
Emperor Joseph. It was suppress- 
ed by the Prench, and restored by 
the new government in 1818, It is 
now in a flourishing state. 

The Garden, called Alte Zoll. — 
The most interesting part is that 
where the French made a bastion, 
overlooking the Rhine. From this 
spot there is a fine view of the river. 
In the distance appear the Seven 
Mountains, the Godesberg, and the 
Kreuzberg. 

The Church of the Milnster. — 
The Empress Helena had erected a 
temple on the spot where this church 
stands, but the present building ap- 
pears to have been raised in the 
twelfth century. In the interior 
may be seen a bronze statue of this 
empress, and two bas-reliefs in white 
marble, one of wliieh represents the 
birth, the other the baptism of Jesus 
Christ. Under the organ is the 
tomb of Bishop Engiebert ; over the 
doors in the choir are two glass cases, 
in which are preserved the bones of 
the patron ot the church ; the walls 



are ornamented with gilt leather, 
said to be eight hundred years old ; 
on each side of the entrance into 
the choir are two marble statues of 
our Saviour and St. John ; beneath 
are vaults, in which are deposited 
the remains of the benefactors to 
this ancient church. This church 
was repaired in 1821. The ancient 
church of St. Martin, which was 
situated on the side of the Miinster, 
and was probably built by the Ro- 
mans, has been demolished. 

The new parish Church of St. 
Rem.'y. It cosntains- a beautiful altar- 
piece, painted by John Spielberg, 
representing the baptism of Clovis, 
or Louis, king of the Franks, by St» 
Remy. 

The Casino, in which are a read- 
ing, billiard, and smoking roomSj 
and under e^xcellent regulations. 
Every stranger can gain admissioit 
after he has been once introduced by 
a member of the society. 

The Town-house square^ in sum- 
mer, is the place for evening pro- 
menades. In the centre is a pyra- 
mid, with a fountain. The square 
of St. Remy takes that name from 
the old church of St. Remy, which 
formerly stood there, but has been 
demolished some years. It is like- 
wise called the square of the Ro- 
mans, a name that it derived from 
an altar, raised by the Romans to 
the Goddess of Victory, which 
formerly stood in the middle bf this 
square, but has been transferred to 
the Museum. This monument, 
which is supposed by many learned 
men to be the true ara Ubioruniy 
bears the following inscription : — 
De(B YictoricK Sacrum. On the 
left side is represented a man 
armed with an axe and a knife ; 
and on the right side is a young 
man, holding in one hand a vase, 
with a handle, and in the other a 
small basin. Above this figure is 
an urn and a second vase. On the 
last side are three dolphins, and 



PRX7SS1A. ROUTE 17. — ENVIRONS OF BONN. 



97 



^lovr them a bull intended to be 
sacriiiced. The form and sculp- 
tures of this altar, the style in which 
2t is tiiiished, and the elegance of 
the characters, denote its Roman 
origin. .Those who are acquainted 
with antiquities will not hesitate to 
give it an equal rank with the altar 
of Victory found at Lyons. M. 
Peck, the canon, mad« this inte- 
resting monument a present to his 
natal place. The other public 
squares at Bonn are, the Square of 
the Miinster, and that called Vie- 
reekplatz. On the first, the tribu- 
nal called Goding held its sittings in 
ancient times. 

The Manufactorws at Bonn are 
few. The only one of importance 
is that of spun cotton, coarse cotton 
cloths, and cotton handkerchiefs. 
Horses are made use of to give 
motion to the spinning machines. 
Bonn has also some tin manufactories, 
and one for sulphuric acid, prepared 
according to the process of Chaptal. 

Bona had formerly an excellent 
school of music, and this delightful 
art is still much cultivated there. 

Beethoven'' 8 Monument, of gold 
bronze, stands in the Munster Place, 
opposite the Post Office. The com- 
poser is represented in modern cos- 
tume, standing on a high pede&tal, on 
the four sides of which are reliefs re- 
presenting the sciences. This cele- 
brated composer was born at Bonn in 
'1770. 

Englisfi Church. — The E-ev. S. 
Fairies, who is licensed by the 
Bishop of London, performs divine 
•service every Sunday morning at 
eleven, and afternoon a,t five, in the 
Protestant chureh in the University. 

Medical .Advice — Sti angers re- 
quiring medical aid at Bonn, will 
do well to consult Dr. Kalt, whom 
the writer knows by experience to 
be a physician as skilful in his pro- 
fession as he is remarkable for his 
kind, gentlemanly, and unassuming 
manners : his perfect knowledge of 
English removes all difficulty, where 



the patient is imacquainted with the 
Germsn language. Dr. Kalt's resi- 
dence is No. 101, Munster Platz. 

G-uide Books, Maps, panoramas, 
and views of the Rhine, may be had 
at the shop of Messrs. Henry and 
Cohen, in the Market place. 

Omnibuses attend the arrival of 
the railway trains, to conduct tra- 
vellers to the various hotels; fare, 
including luggage, five silver gros. 

ENVIRONS OF BONN. 

The most interesting objects in 
the environs of Bonn are the fol- 
lowing : — 

Poppelsdorf,or Ciemensruhe, with 
its garden, half a mile distant. The 
way to it is by a walk of chestnut 
trees, from the end of the tovvn. 
Poppelsdorf suffered considerablj^ 
during the last war, but it has been 
re-established, and now contains 
theatres for the delivery of lectures, 
collections of natural history and 
mineralogy ; philosophical instru- 
ments, apartments for the professors, 
&c. The ground surrounding it 
has been laid out as a botanic gar- 
den. The collection of zoology com- 
prises upwards of sixteen thousand 
specimens ; that of petrefactions 
more than ten thousand; and that 
of minerals more than twenty -two 
thousand. 

Behind the chateau is the village 
of Poppelsdorf, leading to the moun- 
tain of Kreuzberg, on the summit of 
which formerly stood the convent 
of Servites ; the church only re- 
mains, which is worth seeing, par- 
ticularly on account of the beautiful 
marble stairease, which is said to 
be formed of the identical steps 
which led to the judgment-seat of 
Pilate. Three pieces of brass (and 
not gold, as Mrs. Trollope states) 
are said to cover the spots of blood 
which fell from the head of our Sa- 
viour. Beneath the church is a 
vault, in which are twenty-five open 
coffins, ranged on either side, each 
containing the shrivelled body of a 



.98 



ROUTE 17. — THE RHINE. KONIGSWINTEB. PART III. 



monk, some of whom have lain 
there four hundred years. They 
appear to have been buried in their 
robe and cowl ; many have still 
their shoes and stockings on, in a 
good state of preservation. The 
view from the tower of the church 
is charming. 

A pretty valley extends to the 
foot of Poppelsdorf: it leads to 
Eottchen, where there was formerly 
a hunting seat, called Herzogs 
freude, which was sold by the 
French and destroyed. Some pea- 
sants' huts now occupy the spot. 

Another pretty promenade in the 
environs of Bonn is that leading 
to the nursery. The traveller will 
procure of the farmer who resides 
there refreshments of every kind. 
Not far from this place is the village 
of Endenich, the environs of which 
are delightful. 

The first object to attract atten- 
tion after leaving Bonn is the 
mountain and ruins of the castle 
of Godesberg. The name of this 
mountain is not derived, as many 
pretend, from an ancient temple of 
the god Woden, or of Mercury, but 
from the German word Goding, or 
Gaugericht, signifying a kind of 
court of justice, which held its 
sittings during the middle ages. 
These ruins, as is apparent, in many 
places, are the remains of an old and 
strong castle of the Romans, pro- 
bably built in the reign of the 
Emperor Julian. 

In 1820, Archbishop Theodoric, 
of Cologne, erected a new castle on 
the ruins of the old one. Arch- 
bishop Gebhard, of Cologne, placed 
a Dutch garrison there during the 
famous war which gave rise to his 
conversion to the protestant reli- 
gion, and his marriage with the 
beautiful Countess of Mansfeldt. 
The view from the top of the Godes- 
berg is varied and delightful. 

At the foot of the mountain is 
the village of |Godesberg.* Hotel, 
Belle-Vue, an extensive and well 



conducted house, beautifully situ- 
ated facing the Seven Mountains. 
This hotel was originally intended 
as a Kursaal, and the extent of the 
accommodation may be guessed by 
the fact, that it contains . eighteen 
private saloons, and can make up 
200 beds. The charges are ex- 
tremely moderate ; dinner, two frs. ; 
bed, two frs. ; plain breakfast, one 
fr. fifty c. Hotel Blinzer. 

This village contains about 1,200 
inhabitants. At this place are the 
mineral springs called Draitscher- 
quelle (fountain of Draitsch). Be- 
tween Bonn and Godesberg, by the 
road-side, stands a monument of 
the fourteenth century, known by the 
name of the High Cross.f 

KONIGSWINTER. 

Inns : Hotel de I' Europe, the best, 
beautifully situated on the border of 



* Count Gebhard, of Truchsess-Wald- 
burg, elector and Archbishop of Koln, 
married secretly the lovely Agnes of 
Mansfeldt. a nun of Gerrisheim, near 
Dusseldorf, and carrying her oiFfrom a 
convent, declared himself a Lutheran, 
and endeavoured to secularize his Elec- 
torate. Pope Gregory XITI. deprived him 
of his dignity, and Ernest, Duke of Ba- 
varia, besieged Gebhard in the Castle of 
Godesberg, where he had taken shelter, 
and reduced it to its present ruinous 
state, A.D. 1593. 

t It is said that the lord of a castle on 
one of the seven mountains discovered, 
upon his return from the Holy Land, that 
his lady had listened to the love of a 
neighbouring Burggraf, and that a son 
had been the consequence and proof of 
their crime. To avoid the fury of her 
injured husband, the lady took refuge in 
a convent, after consigning the infant to 
the care of some faithful retainer. It is 
not known what vengeance the crusader 
took on the seducer ; but a strict, thougii 
ineffectual search was everywhere made 
for the innocent child. Many years after- 
wards tte old knight met, and, by some 
accident, recognised the unfortunate ob- 
ject of his pursuit (then approaching 
manhood), on the high road between 
Bonn and Godesberg, and slew him on 
the spot where the Hoch-Kreux now 
stands, and which, according to the 
legend, was erected in remembrance of 
the fatal deed. 



PRUSSIA. ROUTE 17. — RHINE. SEVEN MOITNTAINS. 



99 



the Rhine, and conveniently placed 
between the landing places for the 
steam-packets ; the salle-a-manger 
extends the whole 'length of the house 
opening on a balcony; the dinners 
are good, and very reasonable : — 
table d'hote, 15 s. gr.; breakfast, 
10 s. gr.; beds, 15s. gr.; service of 
the hotel per diem, 8 gr. Hotel 
Berliv. Konigswinter is situated 
at the foot of three lofty hills, 
covered with vineyards. Konigs- 
winter probably existed at the time 
when the Emperor Valentinian 
established some fortresses on the 
mountains of Lowenberg and Strom- 
berg. It is likewise said that the 
Romans, having been driven from 
this place in 446 by a king of the 
Franks, the latter resided there 
several months in the winter, wait- 
ing to pass the Rhine, whence it 
received the name of Hibernia 
Regia. The inhabitants of Konigs- 
winter are principally employed in 
making wine and cutting stones, 
and they are considered very 
honest and industrious people. 
There are ten large establishments 
for cutting stones, all of which 
make extensive exports annually. 

Outside the village are always 
ready saddled donkeys for mount- 
ing the Drachenfels ; the charge is 
ten silver groschen each for ascend- 
ing and descending ; on the top 
every description of refreshment 
may be had at moderate prices. 
May wine, which may be had here, 
is a pleasant beverage. 

SEVEN MOUNTAINS. 

The lofty mountain of Stromberg,* 

* Sir Dietrich of Schwarzeneck, on his 
way to join the army of the crusaders at 
Spires, passed a night at the castle of Ar- 
genfels, where he was most hospitably en- 
tertained by the old Burggraf andhis two 
daughters. The younger, named Bertha, 
made a deep impression on the heart of Sir 
Dietrich, and the noble mein of the knight 
was not beheld with indifference by the 
lady. Sir Dietrich proceeded to the Holy 
Land, and, in a fierce battle against the 



which inclines towards the Rhine, is 
likewise called Petersberg (Peter's 
mountain), a name which it receives 
from a small chapel situated there, 
and dedicated to St Peter. Several 
hermits of the order of St Augus- 
tine established themselves in this 
mountain in 1134, and in 1188 
Archbishop Philip of Heinsberg 
sent from the convent of Himme- 
rode, in the Eifel, some monks of 
the order of Citeaux, who, how- 
ever, abandoned this inhabitable 
mountain in a few years, and set- 
tled in the valley of Heisterbach, 
in the vicinity. 

A curtain of mountain called 
Ropekiimmerchen, forms the junc- 
tion between the mountain of Drach- 
enfels and that called Wolkenberg. 
The latter has the form of a muti- 
lated cone, and is 1,482 feet high. 
In former times there was likewise 
a castle at the top of this mountain, 
which was often covered with fogs 



Saracens, was wounded and made prisoner. 
During his captivity, he vowed a chapel to 
St Peter should he ever return to his native 
country. Shortly afterward, the city where- 
in he languished in chains was stormed by 
the Christians, and Sir Dietrich recovered 
his liberty. The crusade over, he sought, 
with a lover's speed, the towers of Argenfels 
and his beautiful Bertha, but, alas ! the 
enemies of the old Burggraf had burned 
the castle to the ground, murdered its 
owner, and the lovely sisters had fled no 
one knew whither. An old shepherd at 
length informed him that the terrified 
maidens had concealed themselves in a 
small hermitage aipidst the thick woods 
that crested the lofty Stromberg (one of the 
Seven Mountains). Sir Dietrich hastened 
to the spot, and it may be supposed no con- 
siderable time elapsed before the fair Bertha 
of Argenfels became the lady of Schwarz- 
eneck, but no persuasions could induce her 
sister to quit the forests of the Stromberg. 
It is suspected that she also loved Sir Die- 
trich, but generously concealed a passion 
which could not be returned, and must, if 
known, have detracted from the happiness 
of those most dear to her. The noble cru- 
sader fulfilled his vow, and, at the same 
time, afibrded the melancholy maiden a 
more eligible asylum, by building a chapel 
to St Peter, upon the site of the hermitage, 
and the grave into which she slowly sunk 
is still pointed out to the sympathising 
traveller. 



100 



EOUTE 17. — THE RHIKE. SEVEN MOUNTAINS. PART III. 



and clouds, and thence derived the ' 
name of Wolkenberg (Castle of 
Clouds). It has now some exten- | 
sive quarries. The stones taken | 
from them are sent to Konigs- ! 
winter, where they are cut, and 
whence they are called Konigs- i 
winter stones. Most of them are ! 
afterwards sent to Bonn, Cologne, ! 
Dusseldorf, &c. The castles of 
Wolkenberg, Drachenfels, and Eo- | 
landseck, were burnt by the Em- [ 
peror Henry V. Archbishop Fre- 
derick I, of Cologne, rebuilt that of 
Wolkenberg, in which he died. I 

The highest of the Seven Moun- | 
tains is the Drachenfels* (Dragon's 
Rock), which rises in the form of 
a colossus on the banks of the river, 
bearing the ruins of an ancient ; 
castle, that has the appearance of : 
a fine piece of architecture. j 

Behind these mountains, and a 
little farther from the Ehine, are \ 
those called Lowenberg (1,896 feet 
high), Niederstromberg or Nonnen- [ 
stromberg, Oelberg (1,827 feet in 
height), and Hemmerich. On all 
of them may still be seen the ruins 
of old castles, many of which are 
said to have been built in 368 by 
the Era peror Valentinian. The cas- 
tles of Lowenberg and Hemmerich 
were inhabited by the Lords of 
Heinsberg. The last of this illus- 
trious family perished near Leghe- 



* The Drachenfels (Dragon's Rock) is 
said to he so named from its having heen 
the abode of a terrible dragon, concerning 
whom many stories are tol I. A Christian 
rfaiden, according to one legend, was ex- 
posed on this rock to the fury of the mon- 
ster by her pagan captors, and saved from 
his devouring jaws by a crucifix she had 
concealed in her bosom, which so terrified 
the dragon that he plunged into an abyss, 
and was never more heard of. The most 
popular tradition, however, is, that Sir Sieg- 
fried the Horny, the famous hero of the 
Niebelungenlied, s^ew this monster with his 
celebrated sword Balamung, and delivered 
tlie fair daughter of King Gilibaldus, whom 
it had carried off from her father's court. 
Sir Siegfried was rewarded with the hand 
of the princess, but was soon after treacher- 
ously slain by her three brothers. 



nigh, in a war against the Bishop 
of Cologne, and a cross may still be 
seen at the spot where he died. 

These mountains derived their 
name from the seven highest sum- 
mits by which they are crowned. 
On the loftiest is an obelisk, erected 
in memory of the passage of the 
Rhine by the German armies in 
1814. This chain of mountains ter- 
minates the great chain that crosses 
Thuringen, the country of Fulde, 
and that of Wetterau, and passes 
to the Rhine 

At the top of a rock on the right 
may be seen the ruins of the old 
castle of Rolandseck. * The greater 
part of them are covered with ivy 
and brambles, and is remarkable, 
for an arch, in good preservation. 
It is said that Roland, the nephew 
of Charlemagne, built this castle in 
order to be near his mistress, who 
had become a nun at the convent 
situated in the island. The poet 
Schiller has made this the subject 
of one of his best ballads, entitled 
the ' Knights of Toggenburg,' plac- 
ing, however, the scene in Switzer- 
land. The prospects from the 
castle of Rolandseck are delightful. 

At this place the Rhine divides 
into two arms, between which is 



* The legend attached to the sombre 
ruin of Rolandseck, and the beautiful island 
of Nonnenworth, is briefly as follows: — 

The death of the famous Paladin Roland, 
the nephew of Charlemagne, having been' 
falsely reported to his betrothed bride, the 
beautiful Hildegart, in the first transports 
of her grief she took the veil in the convent 
of Nonnenworth. Roland, upon his return_^ 
to the banks of the Rhine, finding his love" 
separated from him for ever in this world, 
built himself a fortress on the summit of 
the conical rock that overlooked the island 
convent, and sat, day after day, at the gate 
of it, gazing upon the walls which contained 
the ijeloved of his soul. Two years passed 
in this manner had nearly consumed his 
strength, when one day, looking down as 
usual on the convent, he heard a passing 
ball, and saw some people digging a grave 
in the garden. Something whispered him 
it was for Hildegart. The conjecture 
proved but too true. He stood and watched 
the funeral procession, saw her laid in the 



PRUSSIA. — ROUTE 17. RHINE. BONN TO COBLENTZ. 



101 



situated the island of Rolands war- 
der, or Nonnenwerder, containing 
sixty-five acres. On the 27th and 
28th of February, 1844, this beau- 
tiful island was covered with water. 

On the island is a good inn, in 
front of which is a pretty garden. 
Boats cross and re-cross at the de- 
sire of visitors . The charge for a 
party is six groschen. 

Between the Seven Mountains 
and Unkel, the Rhine forms another 
basin, both banks of which exhibit 
delightful landscapes. A number 
of villages are seen dispersed over 
the plain, the hills are covered with 
vineyards, and in the distance be- 
hind appear the Seven Mountains, 
whose majestic summits seem to 
rise above the clouds. 

On the road from Bonn to Cob- 
lentz is the small town of Remagen, 
the Rigomagura of the Romans, 
which contains about 1,300 inha- 
bitants. In the environs a great 
number of monuments have been 
discovered, which bear dates of the 
times of these conquerors of the 
world. 1 hey were found in the 
year 1768, when the elector, Charles 
Theodore, gave orders for making 
the road from Coblentz to Bonn. 
Before that time the traveller ran 
numerous risks of losing his life 
whilst travelling this road, which 
was quite impassable when the 
Rhine attained a certain height. 
Robbers often concealed themselves 
in the brambles and clefts of the 
rocks, and thence rushed out on the 
passengers, whom they threw into 
the Rhine after robbing them. 
Charles Theodore remedied this 
evil; for by his orders the rocks 
were blown up, the low parts near 
the river filled, and solid walls 
erected to support the excellent 
road which was finished by the 



earth, and listened to the requiem chanted 
over her. and the next morning was found 
in his customary situation — dead ! — his eyes 
still turned towards the convent. 



French in 1801, At this time were 
discovered a great number of mile- 
stone columns, others with inscrip- 
tions, medals, and other Roman an- 
tiquities, which prove that the Em- 
perors Marcus Aurelius and Lucius 
Verus had established a great road 
here. All these antiquities have 
been taken to Mannheim. 

A few hundred paces from Rema- 
gen is the mountain of Appollina- 
risberg, with an ancient priory, 
which belonged to the abbey of 
Siegburg. The situation is delight- 
ful, and it commands a fine view of 
the Rhine. In the Gothic church 
of this convent was formerly shown 
the head of St AppoUinarius, and it 
was consequently much resorted to 
by pilgrims. 

On the left is the mountain of 
basalts, called Eri)eler Ley, at the 
foot of which is the market toAvn of 
Erpel. The southern declivity of 
this steep mountain is planted with 
vines, which produce a delicious 
white wine, called Leywein. The 
ground presents nothing but a mass 
of stones ; and the young vines are 
planted in baskets fiUed with earth 
and green turf, and placed in the 
clefts of the rocks. 

After the traveller has passed 
Erpel, he reaches the ruins of the 
castle of Odenfels, or Okkenfih, at 
the foot of which is a small vil- 
lage. 

On the left, nearly opposite the 
mouth of the Aar, is the small town 
of L-vz, concealed at the bottom of 
a defile of mountains; and not far 
from it is the village of Lavhsdrrf. 
Linz, which formerly made part of 
the electorate of Cologne, obtained 
in 1330 the privileges of a town ; 
and in 1365, Archbishop Engelbert 
III built the castle there, near the 
gate of the Rhine, in order to pro- 
tect the navigation, and defend the 
town against the frequent attacks 
of the inhabitants of Andernach. 
The castle, as well as the walls of 
the town, is constructed with ba- 



102 



ROUTE 17. — RHINE. AMDERMACH.-^PART lU. 



salts, and the streets are paved with 
similar stones. The parish church 
is ancient. It contains a monu- 
ment of the ancient knights of Ren- 
neberg, who founded, in 1257, the 
convent of nuns of St Catherine, 
situated north east of Linz. Con- 
siderable industry is displayed in 
this town, and numerous vessels 
come here to receive the different 
productions of the country, such as 
wine, potash, iron, lead, copper, and 
fuller's earth. The iron is brought 
from a foundry in the vicinity of 
the town. 

On the right, about a quarter of 
a league from the Rhine, is the small 
town of Sinzig, containing 1,600 
inhabitants, which once formed part 
of the duchy of Juliers. This town, 
which is situated in the midst of a 
fertile plain, is the ancient Sentia- 
cum, formerly a strong castle of the 
Romans, that was probably buUt by 
Sentius, one of the generals of Au- 
gustus. Roman medals have fre- 
quently been discovered at this 
place; and in the time of Frederick 
Barbarossa, it had a royal palace. 
The parish church is a Gothic 
edifice, bmlt in the form of a cross, 
with cement stones. Near this 
church is a chapel that is more an- 
cient, and contains a tomb, in which 
was found, some years back, a 
corpse that nature had converted 
into a mummy, called by the in- 
habitants St Vogt. This mummy 
was conveyed to Paris by the 
French, but was returned in Sep- 
tember, 1816. On an eminence 
close to the town is a large farm, 
formerly the convent of St Helena. 

On the right is seen the market 
town of Nieder Breisig, which con- 
tains 1,000 inhabitants. 

Opposite is Dattenherg, with the 
ruins of an old castle in the midst 
of broken rocks of basalt. 

The Castle of Rheineck is situated 
on the top of a steep mountain. 
The new castle is erected on the 
ruins of the old, of which only a 



dilapidated tower remains, covered 
with ivy and brambles, and forming 
a striking contrast to the modern 
buildings. The last Count of 
Rheineck died in 1548. The estate 
then passed to the lords of Wars- 
berg, and, in 1654, by purchase to a 
count of Sinzendorf, whose family 
retained possession of it till the ces- 
sion of the left bank of the Rhine. 
The situation is charming, particu- 
larly of the garden, which is situated 
on the side of the Rhine, and 
commands a fine prospect from the 
top. 

On the left, are the ruins of the 
Castle of Hamvifr stein, on the top of a 
rock opposite the village of Fornich. 
At this castle the unfortunate Henry 
IV found an asylum in 1105, after 
having in vain attempted to obtain 
from the Bishop of Spire the bene- 
fice of a lay brother in the very 
bmldmg which had been erected by 
the ancestors of this emperor, 
and which had received numerous 
donations from him. 

The Spaniards, the Swedes, and 
the Lorraines, were, by turns, mas- 
ters of this castle during thirty 
years. In 1654, Charles Gaspard, 
of Leyden, drove out the Lorraines. 
In 1823, it was purchased by Baron 
Hammerstein. 

At the foot of the rocks is the 
village of Ob'ir Hammerstein, which 
was formerly a well-fortified town. 

ANDERNACH.* 

Hotel, The Lilly. This house, 



* Siegfried, Count Palatine of the Rhine, 
upon his return from the Holy Land, was 
induced, by the slanders of the perfidious 
Golo, to banish his beautiful wife, Geno- 
feva, from his palace at Andernach. The 
unfortunate countess strayed into the 
neighbouring forests of Laach ; there by 
the side of the lake, she gave birth to a 
boy, and lived with her innocent offspring 
several years in the wilderness, unseen by 
man, and unharmed by the beasts of prey 
with which it was peopled. One day, as 
Count Siegfried was hunting, he came by 
accident to the very spot which his perse- 



PEUSSIA. ROUTE 17.— RHINE. BONN TO COBLENTZ. 



103 



although upon a small scale, is a 
well-conducted, comfortable stop- 
ping place, and well situated for 
making excursions to the Laacher 
Sea, distance about six and a half 
English miles. Mr Hubar, the 
proprietor of the Lilly, furnishes 
carriages for making the excur- 
sion. Mr Hubar has also a choice 
collection of rare and beautiful 
flowers. 

The Artonacum of the ancients 
was a Roman frontier town, and 
the head-quarters of a military 
prefect. The kings of the Franks 
afterwards built a palace at this 
place; and historians relate, that 
they caught fish out of the Rhine 
from its windows: but as the ruins 
now seen are at a considerable dis- 
tance from the Rhine, on the south- 
east of the town, it is obvious that 
the river must have since deviated 
considerably from its ancient course. 
King Sigebert, of Austrasia, was 
the last who inhabited the palace of 
Andernach. During the middle 
ages, this town held a very high 
rank amongst the commercial 
towns of the Rhine, till it fell under 
the dominion of the electors of 
Treves. It does not now contain 
more than 2.500 inhabitants. Two 
things, however, render this place 
still very remarkable; these are 
mill-stones, and stones for making 
cement. They are derived from 
the neighbouring mountains, and 



cuted lady had chosen for her retreat. 
Struck by the manifest protection which 
Providence had afforded her and her child, 
he listened to her justification, and re- 
turned with her immediately to Ander- 
nach, where her innocence was proved, and 
the traitor Golo underwent the punish- 
ment he so richly deserved. After her 
death the countess was canonized, and the 
legend of S. Genofeva has found its way 
into the language of every country. 

Andernach was the residence of the 
Prankish kings; and the old German 
Chronicles say that they used to fish for 
salmon in the Rhine out of their palace 
windows. The portal towards Coblentz 
supposed to be of Ronjan origin» 



are not to be found in such abun- 
dance, or of so good a quality, 
either on the Rhine or in any coun- 
try of Europe. The cement, being 
mixed with a sufficient quantity of 
lime to give it a consistency, becomes 
impenetrable to water; or rather, 
hardens so much in water as to 
form a new and very solid stone. 
In order to use it in this manner, 
it must be ground into trass (a 
name given to it in this country). 
This is done by mills, which were 
only used in Holland formerly, but 
have lately been erected near the 
quarries whence this stone is taken. 
Some of it is sent to the East 
Indies, but the greater part to 
Holland, where it is used in the 
construction of dykes, and other 
hydraulic works. Andernach, how- 
ever, is not the principal place for 
the export of this commodity. 

The mill-stones are a volcanic 
production, and are mentioned by 
some of the Roman authors. They 
are sent to Holland, to the Han- 
seatic towns, to England, to Rus- 
sia, and even to America. 

Andernach likewise trades on 
the Rhine in wine, charcoal, pot- 
ash, &c. 

The most remarkable objects at 
Andernach are: the gate on the 
side towards Coblentz, constructed 
by the Romans; outside this gate, 
on the right, the ruins of the palace 
of the kings of Austrasia ; the 
baths, called Jews baths, which 
are probably of Roman origin ; 
the parish church, where it is said 
the Emperor Valentinian and a 
child of the Emperor Frederick I 
are interred; the old tower, one 
of the most ancient buildings of 
the town ; the Roman tombs, on 
the hill of Kirchberg ; the Roman 
altar, in the garden of the Oak 
Inn. 

Not far from the town are the 
majestic ruins of the convent of 
the noble ladies of St Thomas, 
which was consumed by fire in 



104 



ROUTE 17. — EHINE. BONN TO COBLENTZ. PART III. 



1796. Some French grenadiers 
were quartered in it, when the fire 
suddenly broke out in the night; 
several of the soldiers perished in 
the flames, and the whole of this 
building was destroyed. 

A fair, called Birmnkrautmarkt, 
is held annually at Andernach, 
towards the end of September. It 
is very well attended, and is 
kept as a grand festival. 

Beyond Andernach, on the left, is 
Fredericksteiv, an old castle belong- 
ing to Neuwied. The peasantry 
call it the Teufelhaus, or Devil's 
house, a former prince of Neuwied 
having erected it with the produce 
of an exorbitant tax. It is now in 
ruins. Around this building are 
several fishermen's houses, forming 
the small village of Fakr, whence 
there is a ferry to Andernach. 

NEUWIED. 

Rhine Hotel. 

Neuwied is situated in a plain, 
bordered by a chain of mountains. 
Behind the town is the abbey of 
Bomersdorf (Villa RomanaJ, situ- 
ated on a rising ground, at the 
foot of which is the village of 
Ueimbachweis. 

This town occupies the site of 
the village of Langendorf. It was 
.ounded by Prince Frederick Wil- 
liam, who died in 1737, and con- 
tains about 5,000 inhabitants. The 
streets are broad, and the houses 
pleasant. A considerable business 
is carried on. Prince Alexander, 
of ISTeuwied, greatly increased this 
town, by allowing all who settled 
there the liberty of public worship 
according to their own views. This 
attracted a great number of indus- 
trious people from every country, 
Protestants, Catholics, and Jews; 
so that the town became very 
flourishing Neuwied is thought 
to resemble the towns of America. 
It suffered much by the war, but is 
still a place of considerable impor- 
tance. Neuwied communicates 



with the opposite bank by a flying 
bridge, established in 1818. It has 
manufactories of watches and jew- 
ellery, kitchen ranges, wooden 
pipes, linen, glass, snufi", copper, 
&c. 

The most remarkable objects are: 
The chateau, at which may be 
seen a very interesting collection 
of Koman antiquities, collected in 
the environs of the town; amongst 
them are lances, arrows, drinking- 
glasses, plates, mirrors, rings, 
bracelets, inscriptions, figures of 
gods, &c. Here also is a good col- 
lection of the natural history of the 
Brazils, made by Prince Maximi- 
lian ; the garden is likewise 
worthy of observation ; the house 
of the Moravian Brothers, or 
Herrnhunters. Amongst these 
brethren there are some good 
artists. Neuwied also possesses a 
seminary for Lutheran schoolmas- 
ters, a bible society, a gymnasium, 
and a good collection of natural 
history. 

Neuwied carries on a consider- 
able trade on the Rhine in iron, 
potash, pipe-clay, and other pro- 
ducts from the woods and moun- 
tains of the surrounding country. 

In the environs of Neuwi c^are the 
remains of an ancient town, and of 
several roads constructed by the 
Romans, which were discovered in 
1791. Behind Biber, half a league 
from Neuwied, are the vestiges of 
a strong castle. Several walls pro- 
ject from the ground in various 
places, and there are likewise traces 
of a ditch, which is nearly filled up. 
The form of the fort is rectangular, 
A tower is situated in the front of 
it. It is eight hundred and fortj"- 
feet long, and six hundred and 
thirty-one feet broad. The whole 
is surrounded by a defensive wall 
five feet thick, furnished with pro- 
jecting towers. In the interior of 
the rectangle is a bathing house of 
considerable extent, which from th6 
vestiges that remain must have 



:PlltSSIA. ROUTE 17. KHINE. BONN TO COBLENTZ. 



105 



been very beautiful. The bathing 
rooms had a double floor, and the 
ceilings were supported by more 
than one hundred brick pillars. The 
statue of a genius was found in the 
canal that supplied the baths. 

In these baths have been found a 
Victoria gradiens, a Diana venatrix, 
a Mercury with a German flute, 
and a genius with a cornucopia. The 
latter statue is of common stone, 
but the others are of bronze. About 
forty medals have been dug up 
here, all of which bear the date of 
reigns from Tiberius to Gallienus. 
At some distance from this place a 
temple was discovered in 1801, but 
has been covered over again ; the 
place, however, is distinguished by 
a stone. The fields around the fort 
contain numerous remains of Roman 
architecture, over which the plough 
is continually passing. All the 
antiquities that could be removed 
have been deposited in the chateau 
at Neuwied. 

On the right appears the village 
of Weisen-thurm (white tower), 
which derives its name from an 
ancient tower situated near it. It 
is said to have been the place where 
the Romans first undertook the 
passage of the Rhine : indeed, the 
ground presents numerous ad- 
vantages to an army wishing to 
efiect a passage, there being an 
island in the middle of the river. 
These inducements probably de- 
termined Csesar to erect a bridge 
here, and influenced the French 
armies, who made three successive 
passages during the revolution. 
The last was efiected on the 8th 
of April, 1797, under the orders of 
General Hoche. He had first erected 
a fortification on the island in the 
middle of the Rhine, behind which 
he collected the boats for the pas- 
sage. The Austrians made a long 
and obstinate resistance, but the 
afiair was at length decided by the 
voluntary sacrifice of the French 
captain Gros. This brave warrior 



swore to take, with his little troop, 
an Austrian battery, which was 
keeping up a very decisive fire. 
The battery was taken, and Gros 
lost his life ; but his death pro- 
cured a victory to his countrymen. 
On a hill near Weissenthurm, is 
the monument of General Hoche. 
It bears this inscription : "L'Ar- 
mee de Sambre-et-Meuse, a son 
General Hoche." 

About a quarter of a league from 
the bank of the river, behind MiUil- 
hofen, and between the mountain 
by which the Sayn flows into the 
Rhine, are the ruins of the old 
castle of the counts of Sayn, who 
as early as the eleventh century 
possessed considerable influence in 
this country, and founded, in 1202, 
the abbey of Augustines of Sayn, 
at a short distance from this place. 
It is said that Frederick, who was 
the first count of Sayn, built this 
castle on his return from Spain, 
where he had been valiantly op- 
posing the Moors, although he was 
very young. This family became 
extinct in 1246. Below these ruins 
may be seen a country-house be- 
longing to the Count of Boos Wal- 
deck, who has a fine collection of 
pictures. 

In the vicinity of the Rhine, 
half a league from this place, and 
two leagues from Coblentz, is 
Ejiger.t, with a modern building. 
Engers was the chief place of the 
district, formerly called Angeres- 
gau, and is said to have been built 
by the Emperor Constantine. In 
1317. Ivuno of Falkenstein, Arch- 
bishop of Treves, gained posses- 
sion of Engers in consequence of 
a war between him and the counts 
of Wied and Isenburg, who were 
come to commit an act of violence 
on his territory, by robbing the 
Flemish merchants who had as- 
sembled at Frankfort fair. In 
order to guard the navigation of 
the Rhine still more, he not only 
fortified the town, but built a strong 
p 2 



106 



J&OtJTE 17.— EHINE. BONN tO COBLENTZ. PAET III. 



castle, with a tower. This castle 
existed till 1758, when it was demo- 
lished, and another erected in its 
place. It is now a summer resi- 
dence of the Prince of Nassau Weil- 
burg ; the situation is delightful, 
and it commands a fine prospect. 
The park belonging to the castle is 
worthy of observation. Near this 
place, aboutthe centre of the lihine, 
is a sand-bank, which is considered 
dangerous for heavily-laden boats 
and rafts. Salmon is caught in the 
environs of Engers and Urnitz, 
but the fishery is not so profitable 
as that of St Goar. 

A quarter of a league after you 
pass Sayn is the pretty little island 
Niederworth, with the hamlet of the 
same name. The convent, founded 
in 1242 by a lord of Helfenstein, 
has been destroyed, but its church 
still exists. On the right appears 
the village of Kesselheim; on the 
left, on the slope of the mountain, 
is the suppressed convent of nuns 
of Basselich, converted into a resi- 
dence, and occupied by a private 
family ; at the foot of which is the 
smaU village of Mailer or Mallendar, 
with several paper-mills. The vil- 
lage under the hill on the left is 
Bendorf, opposite to which on the 
right is Sebastian Engers. 

On the right is Nuendorf, called 
the kitchen-garden of Coblentz, 
which is inhabited by a great num- 
ber of persons who construct rafts ; 
on the left are several scattered 
houses, forming the village of Ur- 
bar, where an excellent wine called 
Bleichart is produced. 

COBLENTZ. 

Hotels. The Hotel de Treves, in 
the Great Square, near the post- 
office ; good and quiet. Giant, a 
large house, but dear. Trois Suisses, 
very moderate : beds, Ij to 2 frs.; 
table d'hote at one o'clock, 2^ frs. . 
including half a bottle of wine ; 
breakfast with eggs, \\ frs. Belle 
Vue, 



Coblentz was formerly the resi- 
nence of the electors of Treves ; 
and, whilst under the French domi- 
nion, the chief place of the depart- 
ment of the Ehine and Moselle. It 
is situated at an angle which these 
two rivers form at their confluence, 
whence it originally derived its 
name, conflueris. It contains about 
18,000 inhabitants. The Eomains 
constructed a strong castle in the 
place called Alter Hqf, which be- 
came a royal palace when subject 
to the Franks. In the middle age, 
the town was divided into three 
quarters, the limits of which were 
determined by the course of the 
rivers. The quarter comprised be- 
tween the left bank of the Rhine 
and the right bank of the Moselle 
was the most considerable : on the 
other side of the MoseUe was situ- 
ated Little Coblentz, or Litzel Cob- 
lentz, no traces of which are now 
visible ; and on the right bank of 
the Rhine, at the foot of the fort of 
Ehrenbreitstein, was the third 
quarter, usually caUed Thai Ehren- 
breitstein, which stiU exists. 

The kings of the Franks, as well 
as the emperors up to the time of 
Louis of Bavaria, occasionally re- 
sided with their court at this place. 
The bishops of Treves lived alter- 
nately at Treves and at the fort of 
Ehrenbreitstein till 1820, when 
Henry of Vintingen erected the 
castle, situated near the bridge 
over the Moselle, by which little 
Coblentz communicated with the 
principal town, and which now j 
forms a communication between 
Coblentz and the Petersberg or 
Fort Francis. This bridge was 
built by Bishop Baldwin, by means 
of indulgences ; it is five hundred 
paces in length, and consists of 
fourteen arches. 

The new castle near the Rhine, 
and that part of the town called 
Clementsstadt, which is connected 
with it, were erected by Clement 
Wenceslaus, the last elector of 



PRTjSSIA. — ROUTE 17. — COBLENXZ. 



107 



Treves, between 1779 and 1787. 
This castle is built in the ancient 
style. The guard-houses, &c. , form 
a semicircle in front of the princi- 
pal building. The interior was 
formerly arranged with great mag- 
nificence and taste. The church, 
which forms part of this castle, is 
remarkable for its simplicity. The 
French transformed this elegant 
palace, whence there is a fine view 
over the surrounding country, into 
barracks, and it has often been 
made use of as a dep6t for prisoners 
of war, which has given it a miser- 
able appearance. It has, until 
lately, been used as a Palais of 
Justice and Court of Assizes, but is 
now completely restored and ele- 
gantly furnished for the King of 
Prussia, where it was proposed to 
receive her Majesty the Queen 
Victoria. 

The most remarkable buildings 
at Coblentz are, besides the Palace 
of Treves, 

Hotel of Metternich- Winnehurg ; 
Hotel Von der Leyden, now the resi- 
dence of the sub-governor ; the 
Palace Boos Waldeck, now occu- 
pied by the chief president ; the 
Old Market of St Plorian, with a 
curious antique head under the 
clock. Besides these are the Hotel 
Kempen, on the Firming; the Gym- 
nasium, in the Jesuit's Place; and 
the Barracks, on the Moselle, for- 
merly a Dominican convent; and 
the Theatre. 

Near the Church of St Castor a 
monument was erected by the 
Prench, in commemoration of the 
Russian campaign in 1812, and 
underneath the inscription was 
written, " Seen and approved of by 
the Russian commander at Cob- 
lentz, in 1814." 

The public squares which deserve 
notice are the Place d^Armes, plant- 
ed with linden-trees; and the Place 
Plan, near the principal guard- 
house. 

The most remarkable churches 



are — the Collegiate Church of St 
Castor. The spot where it is si- 
tuated was formerly an island of 
the Rhine. Its roof is supported 
by Corinthian columns. A covmcil, 
composed of three kings and eleveu 
bishops, was held here in 843. On 
the left side of the church is the 
tomb of St Riza, a descendant of 
Louis leDebonnaire, and the picture 
at the second altar on the same 
side is a copy of Rubens' ' Descent 
from the Cross.' In the choir are 
four pictures, by Zick, an artist of 
Thai Ehrenbreitstein. The subjects 
are taken from the legends of St 
Goar and St Castor, and represent 
part of what took place at Coblentz 
in 870 between Louis and Charles 
the Bald. Near the grand altar 
are the tombs of Archbishops Kuno, 
of Falkenstein, and Werner of Ko- 
nigstein. The Church of St Flo- 
rian was used by the French as a 
military depot, but has been appro- 
priated to the Protestants by the 
Prussian government, and is now 
the garrison church. It is said to 
have been originally founded by 
the Empress Helen, but afterwards 
rebuilt. On the walls of this 
church are some pictures painted 
in fresco, by Zick. It likewise 
contains the tombs of the arch- 
bishops John IV, count of Isen- 
burg, and John V, count of Leyden. 
The remains of James 11, margrave 
of Baden, were transferred, in 1808, 
to Baden. The pulpit and the bap- 
tismal font are curiously carved by 
Hufschmidt. The church of Notre 
Dame, which is situated nearly in 
the centre of the town. Its stee- 
ples, which are composed of several 
stories placed one above another, 
have a majestic effect. The choir 
is ancient, and the nave modem. 

The last elector constructed an 
aqueduct at Coblentz, by which 
very clear water is conveyed to 
every part of the town. This aque- 
duct commences at a mountain near 
Metternich, and the canals from it 



108 



HOtJTB 17. — COfiLEJIfZ;. 'Ei^VmoKf?; 1»ART iir. 



pass over the bridge of the Moselle. 
The fountain in the new town, 
which is supplied from the same 
aqueduct, bears the following in* 
scription, placed there by the elec- 
tor: Clemens WevceslauS) Elector, 
vicinis suis, A.D. 1791. 

A casino was established at Cob' 
lentz in 1808, to which strangers 
are admitted as well as to the read- 
ing room. There is also a musical 
institution, and a gymnasium, with 
a small but choice library, contain- 
ing numerous MSS. 

The Post office, near the great 
square ; letters depart for England 
morning, and arrire daily about two 
o'clock, the foreign postage of letters 
sent to England, 9 gr., must be paid. 

English Divine worship is per- 
formed every Sunday morning in 
the palace chapel at half-past ten 
and three in the afternoon. 

Bankers. — Deinhard and Jordan. 

Booksellers. — Mr R. F. Hergt, in 
the Rhine Strasse, near the hotels, 
keeps an assortment of guide books, 
panoramas, &c. 

Reading Room. — In the Rhine 
Strasse, No. 406, adjoining the 
library of Mr Hergt—' The Times,' 
' Galignani, ' ' Edinburgh, ' and 
' Quarterly Reviews,' ' Blackwood's 
Magazine,' French and the principal 
German papers. 



TERMS. 



By the day . 
Week . 
Month 
Three Months 



5 s. gr. 
15 gr. 

1 th. 

2 th. 



Environs of Coblentz. — Lierthon. 

A quarter of a league from the 
town, beyond the gate of Lierthon 
was the ancient Chartreuse, situated 
at the top of a small hill. This 
building was sold in 1810 to M. 
Seidensticker of Wetzlar, but has 
been since purchased by the govern- 
ment, who have fortified this height, 
and given it the name of Fort Alex- 
ander. The height where this 



monastery stood, and at the foot of 
which runs the great road that 
passes over the HundsrLick, was 
first called Marterburg ; but the 
bones of St Beatus having been 
conveyed there in 1017, it was 
afterwards named Beatusberg. 
A colony of Benedictines was 
estabhshed at this place by Arch- 
bishop Hillinus in 1153; and in 
1334 the convent was abandoned 
to the Carthusians, who kept pos- 
session of it till the cession of the 
left bank of the Rhine. 

The prospect from the spot where 
the church formerly stood is very 
extensive and varied. On the right 
may be seen the charming island 
of Oberworth, watered by the 
Rhine ; and near Capellen high 
mountains, the picturesque forms 
of which resemble an amphitheatre. 
In the distance is Lahnstein, with 
its old castle in ruins ; and almost 
out of sight appear the old towers 
of the castle of Marksburg. A 
delightful vaUey extends to the 
foot of the fort of Elirenbreit stein, 
and thence to the rocks near An- 
dernach. In every direction vil- 
lages and country houses may be 
seen, surrounded by well- cultivated 
fields ; and at the foot of the height, 
in the midst of a fertile country, 
stands Coblentz, which seems to 
make one and the same town with 
the village of Neuendorf, situated 
in the vicinity. A bridge of boats, 
erected in 1819, connects Coblentz 
with Thai Ehrenhreitstein, which is 
situated on the high road to Frank- 
fort, through Montabaur and Lim- 
burg, and to the Bath of Ems, four 
leagues from Coblentz. The Thai 
or vaUey adjoins the mountain on 
which stands the Fort Ehrenhreit- 
stein, The Romans established a 
strong castle on this mountain in 
the time of the Emperor Julian, on 
the ruins of which Archbishop 
Hermann Hillinus erected the fort 
that was finished in 1160, and 
receives from its founder the 



PRUSSIA. ROUTE 17. ENVIRONS OF COBLBXTZ. 



109 



name of Hermannstein. The Elec- 
tor John, Margrave of Baden, 
augmented and repaired the for- 
tifications, and caused a well, 
which derives water from the 
Rhine, to be cut in the rock two hun- 
dred and eighty feet deep. The latter 
undertaking occupied three years, 
and it was then found necessary 
to proceed three hundred feet lower. 

On the highest part of the moun- 
tain, on the south side of the fort, 
formerly stood a square tower, on 
the top of which was a foundry, 
and beneath it a powder magazine. 
On the square, between the bar- 
racks and the arsenal, was placed 
the famous cannon caUed the 
Griffin, which weighed ten tons, and 
was capable of carrying balls of one 
liundred and sixty pounds. This 
tower was blown up by the French, 
and the Griffin taken to Metz. 

The Fort of Ehrenhreitstnn ex- 
perienced numerous vicissitudes 
during the Revolution. It was 
first blockaded for a month by 
General Marceau, during the first 
passage of the Rhine by the French, 
in September, 1795. It had twice 
the same fate during the campaign 
of 1796, and was cannonaded from 
the heights of Pfaffendorf and 
Arzheim. The fortifications, how- 
ever, did not suffer much by this 
bombardment ; but the small town 
iDeneath them was much damaged, 
its houses having been burnt by 
the shells. The French succeeded 
in gaining possession of a height 
called NeUenkopf, near Arzheim ; 
but the retreat of Jourdan soon 
compelled them to raise the siege. 
A fourth blockade was commenced 
in 1797, after the passage effected 
by General Hoche, at Neuwied, and 
it lasted till the peace of Leoben. 
A body of French troops suddenly 
presented themselves before this 
fortress during the negotiations for 
the peace of Rastadt, and caused a 
dreadful famine. A cat was sold 
for about two shillings and six- 



pence, and horse-flesh at about 
one shilling per pound. Many 
persons perished for want. It was 
in vain that the brave commandant, 
Colonel Faber, belonging to the 
troops of the Elector of Mayence, 
wrote several times to the Congress 
at Rastadt in the most pressing 
terms : a fatal policy had obtained 
the rule ; the fortress was aban- 
doned to its lot, and necessity con- 
strained the commandant to capi- 
tulate on the 27th January, 1799. 
The French repaired and aug- 
mented the fortifications, but their 
demolition was commenced shortly 
after the conclusion of the peace of 
Luneville. The lofty towers, the 
enormous masses of rock, the 
mines, and the walls, fell with a 
tremendous noise. 

Since 1816, Ehrenbreitstein has 
been re-fortified. In connexion 
with the Chartreuse, or Fort Alex- 
ander, and the Petersburgh, or 
Fort Francis, it forms one of the 
strongest positions in Germany. 
The Chartreuse commands the 
roads from Mayence and theHuns- 
riick, the Petersburgh those of 
Treves and Cologne, and the Ehren' 
breitstein,the Rhine and the country 
of Nassau. Besides the principal 
forts, there are some outworks. The 
whole are constructed from the plans 
of Montalembert and Carnct. 

The view from Ehrenbreitstein 
is superb. In front is the town of 
Coblentz, situated on the banks of 
the river, in which there are two 
islands, each having a convent. 
Behind the town may be seen the 
Chartreuse, surmountmg a height 
planted with vines and fruit trees, 
and in the plain below, more than 
thirty towns and "villages. The 
fortifications can only be seen by 
obtaining an order from the com- 
mandant, which is easily pro- 
cured. 

The small town of Ehrenbreit- 
stein extends along the foot of the 
height as far as a mineral spring 



110 



ROUTE 17. — ENVIKON8 OF COBLENTZ. — PART III. 



at the entrance of the valley, from 
which the place derives its name. 

In the middle of the Ehine, he- 
tween Coblentz and Thai, there is 
an echo which produces a grand 
effect, particularly at night, when 
a hunting horn, or any other musi- 
cal instrument, is sounded. 

The trade of Coblentz consists 
principally in the conveyance of 
merchandise up and down the 
Moselle. This river rises in the 
Vosges, and begins to be navigable 
at Metz ; thence it runs in a broad 
valley as far as Thionville, without 
meeting the least obstacle ; but at 
that place the valley becomes so 
narrow as scarcely to leave room 
for the passage of the river, which 
then flows along the bottom of 
the mountains, forming numerous 
curves and angles. The naviga- 
tion, which is already rendered 
very inconvenient by this circum- 
stance, is still more obstructed by 
the rocks and sandbanks in the 
river, and by the badness of the 
roads on its banks, used for towing. 
Notwithstanding all these difficul- 
ties, an extensive navigation is 
carried on. The principal goods 
sent by the MoseUe to the Eliine 
are slates, firewood, timber, staves, 
charcoal, coals, brandy, paint, pot- 
ash, salt, bark, pipes, glass, rag- 
stones, and Moselle wines. The 
trade in French wines has been 
much dimmished by the heavy du- 
ties paid in the Prussian territory. 

iLheEnvirons of Coblentz present 
several interesting objects, such as 
the bridge over the Moselle, be- 
tween the village of Metternich 
and Rubenach, the field where the 
Prussians established their camp 
before the invasion of Champagne. 

On the left of the road towards 
Andernach is the Perersberg, on 
which the French built Fort Mar- 
ceau. 

This fortification has since been 
enlarged, and has received the name 
of the Emperor Francis. It com- 



mands the mouth of the Moselle 
and the roads of Treves and Co- 
logne. On this height was the 
tomb of General Marceau, who 
perished near Altenkirchen, whilst 
attempting to cover the retreat of 
Jourdan. It was destroyed in 1817, 
as injurious to the fortifications, 
but a similar monument was erected 
in the plain, by command of the 
KingfOf Prussia. It consists of a 
pyramid twenty feet high, placed 
on a sarcophagus. An urn of black 
marble contains the ashes of Mar- 
ceau, with suitable inscriptions. 

Near the tomb of Marceau were 
deposited the bones of Hoche, his 
brother in arms, whose monument 
is situated near Wiesen-thurm. 
Half a league from Coblentz was 
the Castle of Schonbornlust, which 
made a conspicuous figure in the 
history of the French emigrants. 
It was built about eighty years ago, 
by the elector Francis George, of 
the house of Schonborn. The ma- 
terials were sold; the park attached 
to it has been destroyed. The same 
fate has befaUen Harloch and Saf- 
tig; but Bassenheim, with its aque- 
ducts, still exists, a league and a 
quarter from Coblentz. 

The traveller may likewise make 
au excursion from Coblentz to the 
Kuhkopf, the highest mountain in 
the environs. The view is very 
extensive and imposing. It includes 
all that part of the valley of the 
Ehine between Horchheim and Linz, 
several of the highest points of the 
Seven Mountains, and a large por- 
tion of the picturesque country of 
Eifel; in the midst of which, on the 
summit of a very lofty mountain 
stands the old castle of Neroburg, 
spoken of by Caesar and Tacitus, 
and now called Niirenburg. 

To the valley of Laubach, half a 
league from Coblentz,' in which is a 
spring called Kaltenbrurm-Brum- 
chen; to Moselweiss, a pretty vil- 
lage on the Moselle, half a league, 
from Coblentz ; to the village of 



PRUSSIA. ROUTE 18. — ENVIRONS OP COBLENTZ. 



Ill 



Neuendorf, on the left bank of the 
Rhine, half a league distant, and 
to Winningen, a league and a half. 

An excursion to the Castle of 
Stolzenfels may be easily made in 
the morning. The hire of a car- 
riage to and from is 1 thlr. 15 gros; 
to see the interior of the castle each 
person must pay 5 silver gros, which 
is devoted to the poor of the little 
village of Capallen. 

EXCURSION FROM COBLENTZ. 

To Ems may be made either in 
a hack carriage, or by omnibus. 
The hire of the former, capable of 
holding four persons, costs 3 tha- 
lers, and 20 gros for the coachman ; 
the above sum includes bridge and 
barriers. Those who do not intend 
to make any stay at Ems, should 
leave Coblentz at half-past two or 
three in the afternoon ; the distance, 
nine and a half miles, will occupy 
one hour and a half ; stay till 
seven or eight, and return to Co- 
blentz by nine. 

Omnibuses go and return four 
times a day ; fare, 15 gros. 

A footpath across the hill leads 
the pedestrian to Ems in one hour. 

For a description of Ems see 
Route 20. 

ROUTE 18. THE RHINE. 

COBLENTZ TO MATENCE. 

59^ English miles. 

Coblentz to Boppart 14J 

Boppart to Caub 16| 

Caub to Bingen Hi 

Bingen to Biberich 14i 

Biberich to Mayence .... 3 

English miles . 59\ 

The fast steamers reach Mayence 
in seven hours, Cologne from Co- 
blentz in four and a quarter hours. 

On the left, at the mouth of the 
Lahn, is the small town of Nieder 
Lahnstein, with 1,800 inhabitants. 
The church, at a small distance from 



it, dedicated to St John, is now in 
ruins. 

On the hUl behind Nieder Lahn- 
stein are the ruins of the old castle 
of Lahneck. On a still higher hill 
is a chapel called AUer Heihgen, 
being dec^cated to All Saints. 

The Lahn, which issues from a 
defile of mountains, rises in the 
forest of Wisterwald; and, whilst 
making numerous bends, crosses 
the territories belonging to the 
Princes of Hesse and Nassau. It 
brings into the Rhine a large quan- 
tity of minerals; and the island 
formed at its mouth was most pro- 
bably made by the settlement of 
slates carried there by the river. 
This river likewise considerably as- 
sists in the trade of the Rhine; as 
iron, corn, flour, fruits, and lime, 
are brought there in great quan- 
tities, for which it returns charcoal, 
salt, and wine. 

Near this place the Rhine is very 
wide. On the right is the farm 
and village of Capellen, situated on 
the side of a rock, behind which is 
the castle of Stolzenfels, restored 
lately by the King of Prussia. 

On the left is the town of Oher- 
lahnstein, which contains 1,500 in- 
habitants, and belongs to Nassau. 
The old castle is now the residence 
of the bailiff. The terrace and win- 
dows of this castle command a fine 
view. It sustained a siege during 
the terrible war between Adolphus 
of Nassau and Thierry of Isenburg. 
The writings by which the electors, 
John of Mayence, Frederick of Co- 
logne, "Werner of Treves, and Robert 
of the Palatinate, made known the 
deposition of the Emperor Wen- 
ceslas, and the election of Robert 
to the empire, were dated from 
Lahnstein. 

On the right is the small town 
of Rhense, with 1,780 inhabitants. 
About four hundred paces from 
this smaU. town formerly stood the 
Konigstuhl (royal seat), the site of 



112 



ROUTE 18. — COBLENTZ TO SiATENCE. PART III. 



which is now marked by four small 
stones. In this bailding the four 
electors of the Rhine often assem- 
bled, to deliberate respecting the 
interests of Germany; and here a 
general peace was concluded. At 
this place, likewise, the election 
and deposition of several emperors 
were determined on. The royal 
seat was a plain unornamented 
octagon building. It rested on nine 
pillars, eight of which formed a 
a circle, and the ninth was in the 
centre. It was ascended by a stair- 
case of fourteen steps placed on the 
^uth side; and had on the top 
seven stone seats for the seven 
electors. Its diameter was twenty- 
four feet, and its height seventeen. 
Its forms, as well as the arms re- 
presented on it, the colours of which 
were partly effaced, gave it a very 
singular appearance. It was erected 
on this spot, because it was a place 
where the territories of the four 
electors met, and to which each of 
them could repair at a very short 
notice. From the top of this build- 
ing four small towns might be seen 
at one view : Lahnstein, on the ter- 
ritory of the elector of Mayence ; 
Capeilen, on that of the elector of 
Treves ; Rhense, on the territory 
of the elector of Cologne ; and 
Brauback, on that of the elector of 
the Palatinate. 

The town of Rhense was obliged to 
keep the Konigstuhl in good repair, 
in consideration of which it enjoyed 
several privileges. This seat was 
destroyed during the revolution. 

On the left, opposite to Rhense, 
is a small chapel, where the depo- 
sition of the emperor Wenceslas 
t,ook place in 1400, after a delibe- 
atioH on the Konigstuhl. 

Brauback contains 1,200 mha- 
bitants. Close to it is the old castle 
of Philipsberg. On the top of a 
rock, behind Brauback, is the strong 
castle of Marksberg, the state prison 
of Nassau : the duty is performed 
by invalid soldiers. This castle 



derives its name from the Evangel- 
ist Mark ; and was built by the 
landgrave John, surnamed the War- 
like. It now belongs to Nassau, 
as well as the town of Brauback. 

Beyond Spey Ober, the Rhine 
makes one of the most considerable 
bends in its whole course. 

Near Boppart the Rhine forms a 
rast lake, surrounded by heights 
partly planted with vines. At the 
foot of these heights is the village of 
Kamp. In front are the villages of 
Niederberg and Hilzen ; and at the 
end of a wood, on the height, is the 
farm of Jacobsberg, which formerly 
belonged to the Jesuites. 

BOPPART. 

Inv. English Hof; beds, 2 frs. ; 
dinner, 2 frs. ; breakfast, 1 fr. 

Boppart is generally considered 
one of the fifty forts established 
by Drusus. The kings of the Eranks 
afterwards built a palace there, the 
ruins of which may still be seen ; 
whence a rivulet that falls into the 
Rhine near this place has derived 
the name of Konigsbach (roj^al ri- 
vulet). During the middle age, 
Boppart became an imperial city. 
It has an hospital and several con- 
vents. The convent of nuns of 
Marienberg is situated above the 
hospital ; it has been transformed 
into a water-cure establishment. 
The town procures from the neigh- 
bouring forests a large quantity of 
wood, which is made into charcoal, 
and sent to Bendorf, where it is used 
in the foundries. It likewise carries 
on a considerable trade in wines 
and tobacco-pipes. 

Further on the left are the rmns 
of the old castles of Leibenstein and 
Stern/els, which forms the summit 
of a height planted with vines. 
These ruins are generally called 
the Brothers,* and present a fine 

* The two castles of Liebenstein and. 
Sternfels, or Sternberg, generally knowa 
by the name of " Die Bruder" (the Bro 
thers), were once the property of an oJv 
nobleman, Avho had two sons, and a beau • 



THE EHi:!»E. ROUTE 18. COBLEXTZ TO MATEXCE. 



113 



coup-cCoeil when seen from the op- 
posite bank. 

On the right is Salzig, where 
a great number of cherries are 
gathered, most of which are sent 
to Holland. 

On the left is the village of Kes- 
tert, with an old church fallen into 
ruins ; and opposite to it is an enor- 
mous rock, covered on the bottom 
with vines, and crowned with trees 
closely planted. 

Opposite to an island on the right 
is Hirzenach, where may be seen an 



tiful ward, of whom the said sons were 
both desperately enamoured. The elder, 
however, perceiving that the j'oung lady 
preferred his brother, nobly resigned his 
pretentions, and retired to E-hense, to 
avoid the sight of so dangerous an object. 
Before the marriage could take place, the 
banner of the cross was raised at Frank- 
fort, and the young intended bridegroom, 
catching the general flame, resolved on 
joining the crusade and deferring his 
nuptials till he returned from the Holy 
Land. Neither the prayers of his father, 
nor the tears of his love, had power to 
damp his pious but ungallant determina- 
tion. He assembled his little troop, and 
joined the Emperor Conrad at Frankfort. 
Shortly after his departure, the old Burg- 
grave dying, the elder son returned from 
Ehense to take possession of his share of 
the estate ; and, far from making use of 
the advantages which his power, and the 
absence of his brother gave him, he scru- 
pulously behaved to the young lady as 
to a beloved sister. Two years had scarcely 
elapsed, when the crusader arrived from 
Palestine, bringing with him a beautiful 
Grecian lady, to whom he was betrothed ! 
Indignant at his perfidy, the elder bro- 
ther sent him a fierce defiance, and a 
bloody combat would have ensued but 
for the tears and entreaties of the forsaken 
fair one, who took the veil in the noble 
convent of Marienberg at Boppart, and 
saw the brothers no more. The false- 
hood of the crusader was punished by 
the frailty of his new love, and the con- 
clusion of the legend may be gathered from 
the ballad. It is certain that two bro- 
thors, Henry Bayer Von Liebenstein, and 
Henry Bayer Von Boppart Von Sterren- 
berg, possessed these castles about the 
middle of the fourteenth century. The 
dear fair one is said to have been of the 
family of Broemser Von Rudesheim ; and 
John Third Broemser founded the Capuchin 
Convent of Bornhoffen, at the foot of the 
vine-covered mountain on which the two 
burgs stand, with the unfortunate lady's 
estate. 



ancient priory, which formerly be- 
longed to the abbey of Siegburg, 
surrounded by the huts of vine- 
dressers. 

At Ethrenthal there are mines of 
silver, copper, and lead. 

A quarter of a league further 
on the left is Welmich, with a gothic 
tower. The environs are pictu- 
resque; and behind the village are 
the ruins of the old castle of Ihumi- 
herg, likewise caUed Maus. Fertile 
gardens and rich meadows extend 
along the banks of the river. The 
view is lovely. 

ST GOAK. 

Inn. The LVy, not very excellent. 

St Goar extends along the shore, 
and on a very high rock behind it 
may be seen the ancient fort of 
Rheinfels. This place had formerly 
a convent of monks, called Marter- 
herg ; but Count Thierry of Katzen- 
elenbogen, surnamed the Rich, 
transformed this peaceable resi- 
dence into a strong castle, and 
compelled boats descending the 
Rhine to pay a toU. Sixty of the 
towns on the Rhine opposed this 
act of violence, and sent troops to 
the blockade of the castle, which 
they besieged for fifteen months 
without success. They then formed 
a league with several other towns 
and princes, and thence originated 
the first confederation of the Rhine, 
which succeeded in destroying the 
greater part of the small castles, 
whose lords carried on open rob- 
bery. This confederation, however, 
afterward fell in the unequal strug- 
gle of the territorial lords against 
the independence of the towns. The 
fort of Rheinfels was defended in 
in 1692 by the brave colonel Gorz, 
against Tahard, who terminated 
the contest by setting fire to his 
camp and retiring. During the 
revolution, it surrendered to the 
Erench on the first summons, and 
was afterwards blown up by them. 

Opposite St Goar is the village 



114 fiOUTE 18. — THE RHINE. COBLENTZ TO MATENCE. PART HI. 



of St Goarshatisert, which forms the 
angle of a bay made by the Rhme. 
At the top of a miountain behind 
this vUlage is the old castle of Katz, 
which was destroyed by the French 
in 1807. The mountain of Peters- 
berg produces an excellent red wine, 
which is considered equal to that 
of Assmannshausen. 

At a short distance further is 
an enormous rock on the left, 
called Lurlei/berg,* where there is 
a remarkable echo, which repeats 
five times ; the report of a gun, or 
the sound of a hunting-horn, is fre- 
quently produced on the passing of 
the steam-boat, to astonish — not 
the natives — ^but my friends "in 
search of the picturesque." 

In this part of the country (which 
is extremely wild and rocky), the 
pious hermit Goar established his 
residence, at a very distant pe- 
riod, and disseminated Christianity 
amongst the fishermen on the 
banks of the Rhine. 

A little beyond the Lurley, the 
river asumes the appearance of a 
lake, enclosed by rocks. The 
Rhine bends on the left side, and 
rushes against a partially-conceal- 
ed ridge of rocks, forming a ter- 
rible whirlpool, called the Bank, 
which is extremely dangerous for 
boats, but still more so for rafts. 
The current of the river dkects 
itself towards a tower on the left, 
near St Goarshausen, against which 
the rafts may dash and break, if 
proper precautions have not been 



* This is the Lurley Berg, celebrated by 
the Minnesinger Marner, as early as the 
twelfth century. Lurley, or Lurelie, as it 
is indifferently called, being derived from 
Lallen, or Lullen, "to stammer" and ley, 
" a rock." Tradition has, however, made 
it the haunt of a fair Nixe, or Water 
Spirit, named Lurley, Lureley, or Luzeley, 
of whom many mad pranks are told. She 
is, notwithstanding, generally believed to 
be friendly to faithful lovers ; and her 
punishment of the seven Countesses of 
Schonberg proves her detestation of insin- 
cerity. The boatmen on the Rhine seldom 
pass without invoking her, and the echoes 
never fail to repeat " Lureley !" 



taken. The means to avoid the 
danger are very simple. A large 
trunk of a tree, called Hund (Dog), 
is attached to the left side of the 
raft ; and at a place near the whirl- 
pool, it is loosened in such a man- 
ner as only to remain connected 
with the prow. This trunk is 
soon swallowed up by the whirl- 
pool, which draws it with so much 
force, that the raft is gradually 
attracted to the left bank, and thus 
kept in the proper direction. 

Below the bank there is another 
whirlpool, called Gewirr. There is 
a tradition, that this was formerly 
connected with the Bingerloch by a 
subterranean channel ; because the 
remains of boats, which had been 
engulphed by the latter, appeared 
on the surface of the first. 

OBERWESEL. 

Inn. Bhine Hotel. 

Oberwesel is one league from St 
Goar, and contains 2,500 inha- 
bitants. It exhibits scarcely any 
trace of its ancient beauty. Its 
large Gothic church, built by Arch- 
bishop Baldwin, of Treves, stands 
in an isolated situation on the 
banks of the river. In the Church 
of the Muiorities is a picture, 
painted by Diepenbeck, which re- 
presents Christ's descent from the 
cross. The chapel, which is seen 
near the wall of the town, not far 
from the Rhine, was erected to the 
memory of a boy named Werner, 
who was taken from his relations 
by the Jews, and put to death by 
them, after sufiering numerous tor-* 
ments. Oberwesel was formerly 
an imperial town ; but the emperor 
Henry VII made it a present to 
his brother Baldwin, Archbishop of 
Treves. 

An excellent wine, called Engen- 
holler, is made in the environs of 
Oberwesel ; and on both sides the 
river below the town there are 
several places where salmon are 
caught in great abundance. 



THE SaiNB. — ROUTE 18. COBLENTZ TO MATENCE. 



115 



Near Oberwesel is the ruin§ of 
the castle of Schonberg. It was the 
birth-place of the heads of a noble 
family which existed as far back 
as the time of Charlemagne, and 
about the eleventh century changed 
its name from Belmont to Schon- 
berg. The celebrated Frederick of 
Schonberg, or Schomberg, first 
developed his warlike talents under 
the command of Henry and Wil- 
Uam II of Orange ; afterwards 
obtained several victories over the 
Spaniards ; reinstated on the throne 
the house of Braganza ; defeated in 
England the last hopes of the 
Stuarts ; and finally died at the 
battle of the Boyne, in 1690. 

The mountain of Martinsberg 
is adorned with a pretty house, 
delightfully situated, belonging to 
the Catholic Adcar. 

The right beyond Oberwesel on 
the Rhine abounds with picturesque 
views, formed by groups of rocks 
and mountains. A large quantity 
of slates is found in the environs. 
Here the gardening is excellent, 
extending down to the river, and 
the vines reaching to the summit 
of the mountains. 

The small town of 

CAUB, 

formerly belonged to the Counts of 
Nuringens, whose family became 
extinct during the thirteenth cen- 
tury ; but has, since 1802, been 
attached to Nassau. The vessels 
at this place are numerous, and the 
inhabitants carry on a considerable 
trade in wine and slates. The 
wine made at Caub is ranked 
amongst the best Rhenish wines. 

On a moimtain above Caub, 
frowning like a citadel, is the castle 
of Gutenfek. This castle was almost 
entirely demolished in 1807, so that 
only the outer walls remain. In 
ancient writings it is always called 
Cub, and derived its name of 
Gutenfels (rock of Guda) from 
the Countess of Guda, whose 



great beauty rendered her a favou- 
rite of the Emperor Richard. The 
landgrave WilUam of Hesse Cassel 
besieged it, without success, in 
1504 ; and near the custom-house 
may be seen a stone, on which this 
event is recorded in verse. On the 
projection of a rock is a sort of 
alcove, whence there is a fine view 
of the river which flows beneath. 
From this point Gustavus Adolphus 
gave his orders, during the thirty 
years' war, to attack the Spaniards, 
who had taken up a position opposite. 

Opposite Caub, in the centre of 
the river, situated on a rock, is the 
castle of P/a/z (pronounced Falbz), 
formerly called Pfalzgrafenstein. 
A small staircase forms the ascent 
to this building. In one of the 
towers of the castle a room is 
shewn where it is said the wives 
of the Counts of the Palatinate came 
to be confined. It has likewise 
several dungeons, used as state 
prisons; and a remarkably deep 
weU, which is cut out of the rock, 
and does not receive its water from 
the Rhine. The Pfalz was no 
doubt erected originally as a toll- 
house. It now belongs to the Duke 
of Nassau. 

It was at this place that the 
Prussian and Russian army, imder 
the orders of Blucher, passed the 
Rhine, January 1, 1814. 

In the Rhine, above Pfalz, is the 
Wildes Gefcihrt, a kind of whirl- 
pool, formed by the river in turning 
round some rocks and small heaps 
of sand. The danger may be avoid- 
ed in calm weather, by suffering the 
boat to glide with the current, 
which wiU direct it safely. The 
passage is only rendered dangerous 
by sudden gusts of wind, when the 
boats rim the risk of being driven 
against the rocks, near the right 
bank. 

BACHAEACH 

is situated three leagues from Bin- 
gen, on the banks of the Rhine, 



116 



]^OUTE 18. — THE RHINE. COBLENTZ TO MAYENCE. 



and at the foot of a very steep 
mountain. The walls of the town 
formerly extended as far as the old 
castle of Stahleck, but part of the 
space is now planted with vines. 
Two historical facts bear testimony 
to the excellence of the wine of 
Bacharach, namely, that Pope 
Pius n (better known under the 
name of Eneas Sylvius) caused a 
tun to be sent annually to Rome ; 
and that the emperor Wenzel grant- 
ed independence to the town of 
Nuremberg for four butts of this 
wine. 

Bacharach produces several arti- 
cles, in which a considerable trade 
is carried on ; particularly wine, 
iron in bars, old iron, starch, and 
beer. It is the natal place of the 
]3ainters Kugelgen. 

The Castle of Stahleck, the ruins 
only of which are now visible, had 
formerly its own lords, by whom 
the convent of Chumbd,near Sim- 
mern, was founded. This castle was 
piUaged during the thirty years' 
war, and rebuilt by the elector 
Charles Louis, in 1666, but soon 
after blown up by the French, in 
the war respecting the Orleans suc- 
cession. Below the castle of Stah- 
leck are the ruins of the church of 
St Werner, a beautiful monument 
of Gothic architecture, erected at a 
time when that art had attained the 
highest perfection. 

On the south side, between Ba- 
charach and Rheindiebach, are the 
ruins of the WiUiamite convent of 
Fur.ftentho.L 

Near Bacharach is an island in 
the Rliine, which includes about 
thirty acres of ground ; between 
this island and the right bank is 
the stone, which, even in old wri- 
tings, bore the name of Ara Bacchi. 
The appearance of this stone above 
the water augurs a good vintage, 
as it is only visible in very fine 
weather, when the waters are low. 

The elector Charles Theodore 
established a great road, which com- 



mences just beyond Bacharach, and 
passes through part of the valley 
of Steeg : by this road merchandise 
which has been conveyed on the 
Rhine, is sent to Simmern and to 
the Moselle. In the valley just 
mentioned are the ruins of the old 
castle of Stalberg, very near the 
village of Steeg. The ancient Counts 
of the Palatinate were accustomed 
to reside occasionally in this castle, 
as weU as in that of Fiirstenberg, 
which is situated in the vaUey of 
Diebach. 

'Nesirthehamiet of Rheindiebach, a 
quarter of a league above Bacharach, 
is a remarkable echo at the en- 
trance of the valley. Amongst the 
ruins of the castle of Furstenberg is 
a garden, whence there is a fine 
prospect. The vines near these 
ruins produce excellent red and 
white wine. 

Lvrchhausev, a smaU village, was 
formerly the bomidary of the lower 
Rheingau. The ruins of Sarec, on 
the Bischofsberg, above the village, 
are the remains of the fortress 
which defended the frontier. 

The environs of the village of 
Niedheim on the right are beautiful, 
and at a distance may be seen the 
ruins of the old castles of Fursten- 
berg and Stahleck. The river forms 
several bends, ar,d resembles a lake, 
terminated by the smaU town of 
Bacharach. 

On the left is the market town of 

LORCH, 

which forms the boundary of the 
Rheingau. It formerly had a castle 
built by archbishop Henry HI, in 
1348, only the ruins of which are 
now visible. Opposite this place 
are the ruins of Furstenberg; and 
near to Lorch* is the mountain of 
Kedrich, or Devil's Ladder, the 



* Beside the little town of Lorch, orLor- 
rich, rises the precipitous mountain of 
Kedrich. It has received the name of the 



ROUTE 18.— THE RHINE. COBLENTZ TO MATENCE. 



ii: 



ascent of which is very steep. Be- 
hind Lorch is the valley of Wis- 
perthal, whence a north-east wind 
issues called Wisperwind, which is 
a singular phenomenon. 

Lorch is one ef the most ancient 
towns of the Rheingau. It was 
here that the first red wine on the 
Rhine was made. The vicinity of 
Rheinberg compelled the inhabi- 
tants to arm and build a castle, 
which gave its name to several 
famiUes. The Gilgen of Lorch were 
the most celebrated possessors of it. 
The church is an ancient edifice. 

On the right is the village of 
Heinhach. Above are the ruins of 
Heimburg. 

Before you reach Asmannshau- 
sen, are some remains of ancient 
baths, said to be of Roman origin ; 
and on the right the village ef 
Dreyeckshauoen or Trechtlinghausen. 
A quarter of a league above this 
village are the ruins of the church 
or chapel of St Clement. The 
mountains are a short distance from 
the banks of the river. On one of 
them are the ruins of the Castle of 
Sonneck, which was destroyed by 
Rodolph I in 1282. 

On the left is the village of 
Asmaunshaxisen, and on the right 
the ruins of the Castles of Vauts- 
berg or Vogtsberg, Meichenstein, Re- 



Devil's Ladder, because the Devil himself 
rode up this hill on horseback- Others sa}', 
that a bold and amorous young knight, 
who had carried off the heiress of the 
Burgh of Lorch; performed the same extra- 
ordinary feat. Another version states, that 
a ladder was absolutely made and fixed 
against the precipice, in the short space of 
one night, by some friendly elves, to enable 
a young knight, named'Ruthelm, to rescue ; 
the fair Garlinda, daughter of one Sibo 
Von Lorch, from the power of the gnomes 
who inhabited the caverns of the Whisper- 
thai (a wild ravine in the neighbourhood) 
and whom Sibo had incautiously oiFended. 
A Sir Hilchen, or Gilgen Von Lorch {whose 
mddle is still preserved in the town-house !) 
galloped up the Kedrick, and released his 
ladye-love from a lofty tower, to which she 
had been borne by the irritated gnomes 
aforesaid 



hinstein, and a little lower, the Castle 
oi Falkenberg, lately repaired. 

An excellent red wine is made 
at Asmannshausen, but it has no 
good inn. Behind the village is a 
small footpath leading to the ham- 
let of Alhaiisen, and to the sup- 
pressed convent of the Capuchins 
ot Northgottes, which is situated far- 
ther in the wood. 

About three hundred yards this 
side of the M'lusethurm is the Bin- 
gerloch, or Hole of Bmgen ; it is an 
opening made through a ridge of 
rocks which crosses the bed of the 
river. This undertaking was ex- 
ecuted by means of gimpowder, to- 
wards the end of the seventeenth 
century, at the expense of some 
Frankfort timber-merchants, in 
order that large boats and rafts 
might pass down the river. There 
is but little danger in passing by the 
Bingerloch with a pilot who knows 
his business ; and if the water is 
high, the spot is scarcely visible. 

On nearing Bingen, the traveller 
passes near the Mamethurm (Mouse 
Tower), the erection of wliich is 
absurdly attributed to Hatto 11, 
Archbishop of Mayence. The glar- 
ing anachronism is sufficient to refute 
this opinion. Hatto died in 1970, 
and this tower was not built till the 
thirteenth century, when the Arch- 
bishops of Mayence levied a toll on 
vessels passing up and down the 
river. It is most probable, there- 
fore, that this tower was erected as 
a toU house. It also serves as a 
light house, and in later times was 
mounted with guns, then caUed 
mousserie; and thus from. Mous, or 
Mousenthurm, has been derived its 
present name. During the last cen- 
tury it has been in rmns. 

The current of water begins to be 
very strong in the environs of this 
tower; and at some distance from it 
there are rocks which appear above 
the water when the Rhine is low, 
and against which boats sometimes 
run. 



118 



KOUTE 18. — THE RHINE. COBLENTZ TO MAYENCE. 



The mountain of Rupptrtsberg is 
situate on this side of the Nahe. 
In 1148, Lady Hildegard of Spon- 
heim, famous for her piety, founded 
a convent on this mountain, the 
ruins of which may still be seen: at 
this place she wrote her prophecies ; 
and here also Bartholomew of Holz- 
hausen afterwards composed his 
visions. He was visited by Charles 
n, to whom he predicted his restor- 
ation to the English throne. He 
also predicted, but with less suc- 
cess, the establishment of the Koman 
Catholic religion in England. The 
Gothic chapel and the corridors of 
the convent, which are situated 
between rocks, have a picturesque 
appearance. The fountain which 
Hildegard is said to have exca- 
vated with her own hands, is still 
visible. 

BINGEN. 

Inns. Victoria and Cheval Blanc, 
both good and moderate. 

Bingen, situated at the mouth of 
the Nahe, contains 5,300 inhabit- 
ants. On the left is the mountain 
of Rudesheim, and near it stands 
the old castle of Ehrenfeh, entirely 
surrounded by rocks. Behind Bin- 
gen runs a chain of mountains 
covered with wood, and beneath 
them is the Bingerlock. More than 
one old castle in ruins appear sus- 
pended from a steep rock ; and in 
the distance amongst some trees 
may be perceived the remains of 
the church or chapel of St Clement. 
The river first rushes with impe- 
tuosity towards this chain of black 
mountains; but afterwards turns 
suddenly to the north, breaking 
against the rocks in the environs of 
the tower of the Mouse. 

" It is very evident (says Schrei- 
ber) that the ridge of mountains 
near Bingen was formerly obstruct- 
ed by rocks, which opposed a sort 
of dyke to the waters of the Rhine, 
and gave rise to the formation of 
an extensive lake betwen Laden- 



burg, Spire, Mannheim, Mayence, 
Grossgerau, and Pfungstadt. This 
mass of water having risen over 
the dyke, feU with impetuosity to 
the bottom of the precipice; and it 
was not tiU after many ages that 
the river effected a free passage, 
the rocks being then broken by the 
violence of the current, or more pro- 
bably, in consequence of one of those 
grand revolutions of nature which 
sometimes take place." Charle- 
magne enlarged the bed of the 
Rhine, but there was scarcely yet 
sufficient room for moderate-sized 
boats to pass. The elector Sigis- 
mund of Mayence rendered the 
passage less dangerous, and made 
it navigable for large boats, in the 
thirteenth century. The navigation 
was also improved by the French 
and Swedes in the seventeenth cen- 
tury, and still more by the merchants 
of Frankfort. 

Bingen carries on considerable 
trade between Mayence and Co- 
logne. The goods exported consist 
principally of corn, wine, salt, pearl- 
ash, tartar, clover, rape-oil, vinegar, 
and brandy. The wines are most 
of them in the district of Bingen, 
and in the environs of the Nahe, 
and they are sent both up and down 
the river, but particularly to Frank- 
fort, whence they are conveyed by 
I land to the northern countries. The 
i wine of Scharlach is most celebrated 
j among the wines of Bingen. 
i From the ruins of the old chateau 
! of Klopp, or Castrum of Drusus, 
which overlooks the town, the 
prospect is magnificent; the town, 
which is situated immediately under 
it, has the appearance of a grand 
panorama, and opposite to it 
is the mountain of Rudesheim, 
with the Niederwald. The eye 
may also follow the whole course 
of the Rhine from the farthest 
extremity of the horizon to the Bin- 
gerloch; and in another direction 
may overlook the valley of the 
Nahe, whence there is also a distant 



THE EHINE. — EOTJTE 18. COBLEKTZ TO MAyENCE. 



119 



view of Mont Tonnerre. Tradition 
asserts that the Emperor Henrj IV 
was confined here for a long time. 
This castle was formerly considered 
impregnable, but was destroyed by 
the French in 1689. 

Excursion from Bingen to 
Kreuznach. 

Omnibuses attend the arrival of 
the steamers, and convey travellers 
to Kreutnach for 12 s. gros each 
person. 

The hire of a carriage with two 
horses to go to and return from 
Kreutnach is five florins ; the dis- 
tance from Bin gen is nine English 
miles. 

Strangers will be much pleased 
by a visit to Kreutznach. The 
drive from Bingen is interesting. 

Hotels. Several large establish- 
ments, in which a table d'hote is 
provided daily at one o'clock. Prices : 
dinner, 2 frs. ; breakfast, 1 fr. There 
are separate tables, at which dinners 
a la carte, and other refreshments, 
can be had at all hours. 

Kreuznach, an ancient town of 
9,200 inhabitants, situated in the 
Valley of the Nahe. It is much 
resorted to by visitors from all 
nations, on account of its saline 
springs, the salubrity of the air, 
and the beauty of its situation. 
The baths are handsome; they are 
erected near the source of the saUne 
spring upon an island, formed by 
the windings of the river, about a 
quarter of a mile from the town. 
They are approached by pretty 
shady walks, through avenues of 
trees, at the end of which stand the 
baths and reading room in a grove 
of acacias. It is during the season 
(which commences in May and con- 
tinues until September) a gay and 
lively spot; interesting excursions 
may be made from hence to the 
Castle of Eheingrafenstein, perched 
upon the pinnacle of a rock of red 
porphery upwards of 600 feet high; 
the ruins may be reached in half an 



hour in a carriage, they command 
a fine view of the river. The salt- 
works belonging to the Grand Duke 
of Hesse Darmstadt, at Carlshale, 
on the right bank of the Nahe, are 
curious, as are those of Munster am 
stein. The castles of Ebernberg, 
and the abbey and castles of Spon- 
heim, are a beautiful carriage drive. 
The town is historically known 
to the English by the death of Ge- 
neral Talbot, who, in conjunction 
with the Sweeds in the thirty years' 
war, stormed the castle. The 
waters of Kreuznach have been 
found most efi&cacious in all cuta- 
neous diseases, diseases of the 
glands, indigestion, &c. Brine 
baths may be had here, independent 
of its springs. 

EUDESHEIM.* 

Inn. Darmstddter Hof. 

Rudesheim is remarkable for its 
ancient castles; the most remark- 
able of which is the Nieder Burp, 
or Fort Ligelheim, close to the 
Ehine. This was a supreme court 
in the time of Charlemagne ; it 
afterwards belonged to the Arch- 
bishop of Mayence, and in the 
thirteenth century became the pro- 
perty of the Rudesheim family. 
After the extinction of this family, 



* Hans Broetnser, of Rudesheim, having 
been taken prisoner by the Saracens, made 
a vow, that should he be rescued, he would 
dedicate his only daughter, the lovely 
Giesela, to the service of Heaven. On his 
subsequent deliverance and return to his 
castle on the Rhine, he learned that Giesela 
had unconsciously frustrated his intentions, 
by plighting her troth to a young German 
knight, named Odon, and that the lovers 
had impatiently awaited his retnrn, in the 
full assurance of their union receiving his 
sanction. In a transport of fury the stern 
Cnisader cursed the unfortunate lady, who 
precipitated herself into the river. Her 
body was found by some fishermen close by 
the ruin called the Mouse Tower, in the 
middle of the Bingerloch ; and to her 
self-destruction, under a father's maledic- 
tion, popular superstition has abscribed 
the general turbulence of the waters in that 
neighbourhood. 



120 



KOUTE 18. — THE RHINE. COBLENTZ TO MAYENCE. 



it passed through various hands to 
Count Metternich, who sold it to 
Count Ingelheim. Its present pos- 
sessor has restored it in so perfect 
a manner that it might be mista- 
ken for the original building. It 
affords a curious picture of ancient 
times. 

Close to the Meder Burg is the 
Ohcre or Boosenburg, consisting of 
two buildings of different periods ; 
and near the market-place is a 
third fort, called the Vorderberg, 
only one tower of which remains. 

The fourth castle is the JBrovi- 
serbiira ; which is situated in the 
highest part of the town. It be- 
longs to the Counts of Coudenhofen. 
These ruins have a very picturesque 
effect. The knights' hall, the bed- 
room, and the chapel, still remain. 
Here also are shown various anti- 
quities connected with the history 
of the Bromser family. 

The Saalhof, in the market-place 
of Rudesheim, is supposed to have 
been a royal palace. Rudesheim 
carries on a large trade in wme, 
and its boatmen are famous for 
their skill. Many rafts are con- 
structed here. 

Nearly opposite Rudesheim is 
the viUage of Kempten, pic- 
turesquely situated at the foot of 
Rochusberg. 

The vineyards, situated on the 
mountain behind Rudesheim, pro- 
duce very good wine. The first 
vines were planted there in the 
eleventh century, under the direc- 
tion of Sigefroi, Archbishop of 
Mayence. 

Leaving Rudesheim, one of the 
finest views of the Rhine presents 
itself. This tOAvn extends along 
the banks of the river, and at the 
extremity of it is seen the ancient 
chateau of the knights of Bromser. 
The Rochusberg is situated on the 
right, and opposite Rudesheim ap- 
pears the town of Bingen. The 
whole scene is closed in by rocks, 
which rise near the mouth of the 



Nahe, and on each side of the 
Rhine, forming a gulph in which 
the river appears to be swallowed 
up. 

Between Rudesheim and Geisen- 
heim stands Euh'mgen, formerly a 
convent ; it is now an arsenal and 
an infirmary. When Albert of 
Austria made war against the 
elector, and approached Bingen, the 
nuns of Ruppertsberg, near Bingen, 
took refuge in this con vent, where 
they preserved, until within a few 
years, several MS. letters of St 
Hildegard, the first abbess of Rup- 
perstberg ; also her ring, bearing 
this inscription — 'I suffer willing- 
ly;' and a prayer-book, ornamented 
with pictures, which she was ac- 
customed to use, and which is said 
to have been given to her by St 
Bernhard. The greater part of the 
building was taken down in 1816, 
and the remainder turned into an 
arsenal. 

At Geisenhim there are sonie 
pretty country seats, belonging to 
the Counts of Ingleheim and De- 
genfeld, M. Gontard, &c. The 
church contains the tomb of the 
elector, John Philip, of Schoenborn, 
a man of excellent character. The 
fanatic Barthelemy Hoitzhausen, 
and the celebrated Leibnitz, were 
once in his service. 

The Rhine, near Geisenheim, is 
2,000 feet in breadth. 

Some distance on the left is Jo- 
hannisberg (Mount St John), or 
Bischofsberg, which is divided into 
a sort of terrace, rises with a gentle 
slope, and overlooks a delightful 
country. From this mountain may 
be seen the whole extent of the 
Rheingau, with its numberless 
towns and villages, its country 
seats, its convents, its mountains, 
and its ancient chateaux ; including 
also a view of the river, with its 
scattered islands. 

The famous priory of Johannis- 
berg was founded in 1109, by Rut- 
hard n. Archbishop of Mayence ; 



THE RHINE. — ROUTE 18. COBLENTZ TO MAYENCE. 



121 



and Count Rodolphus, or Rheinhof, 
of the Rheingau, enriched it by 
very considerable donations. Arch- 
bishop Adalbert converted the 
priory into an abbey in 1130. It 
was dissolved in 1567, the cloister 
having been burnt fifteen years 
before by Albert of Brandenburg. 
The Swedes destroyed the remain- 
ing buildings during the thirty 
years' war. In 1641, Johannisberg 
was sold for 30,000 florms to Hu- 
bert de Bleymann, treasurer of the 
empire, whose heirs resigned it, in 
1716, to the abbey of Eulde. The 
building then arose from its ruins, 
and the cultivation of vines was 
increased. The wines made at this 
place are the dearest, and are con- 
sidered the best of the Rhenish wines. 
The vineyards occupy a space of 
sixty-three acres, and produce an- 
nually twenty -five hogsheads, each 
containing 1,300 bottles, usually 
worth 20,000 to 24,000 florins, but 
amounting in good years to double 
that sum, exclusive of other wines 
of inferor quality. The wines are 
aU of the Risling kind, and the best 
grow nearest to the house. The 
vintages take place a fortnight 
later than in other parts of the 
Rheingau. The grapes which fall 
to the ground in consequence of 
this delay are collected together by 
forks made for this purpose. In 
1809, the wine of the first quality 
was sold at four florins a bottle, and 
the inferior at three florins and a 
half. The wines of 1779, 1788, and 
1805, are sold as high as twelve 
florins a bottle. In 1816, this estate 
was given to Prince Metternich by 
the Emperor of Austria. 

The villages of Winkel and Mit- 
telheim are on the left after passing 
Johannisberg. Oesfrich is sur- 
rounded with country seats ; also 
at Erbach there are several villas, 
one of which belongs to the Bur- 
grave of Westfalen. 

ELLFELD, 

The principal place in the Rhein- 



gau, and remarkable for its Gothic 
towers, is situated half a league 
from Nieder Walluf. There is a 
fine range of country houses on the 
banks of the river, the most re- 
markable of which belongs to the 
Counts of Elz. The boatmen who 
live here are famous for their skill 
in the navigation of the Rhine. 
Ellfeld was formerly called Alta 
Villa, and was raised to the rank 
of a town in the fourteenth cen- 
tury, by Louis of Bavaria. It was 
originally a palace, which Otho I 
gave to the church of Mayence, 
and was the usual residence of the 
bishops and of several noble fami- 
lies in the fourteenth and fifteenth 
centuries. Henry Bechtermunz, a 
pupil and companion of Guttem- 
berg, established a printing press 
here in the fifteenth century. 

At Waltuf, which is termed the 
gate of the Rheingau, on the bank 
of the river, is a pretty country 
house belonging to the Count of 
Stadion. The whole country be- 
tween this place and Lorchhausen 
is called the Rheinyau, which, un- 
der the dominion of the Franks, 
formed a distinct district, and was 
given by Louis, the last Carlovin- 
gian king, to the Archbishop of 
Mayence. Between Walluf and 
Budenheim, on the opposite side 
of the Rhine, is a ferry. 

The next place on the left is 
Schierstein, where there is a beau- 
tiful garden which formerly be- 
longed to the family of Holzhausen. 
Schierstein might with great pro- 
priety be called the orchard of the 
Rheingau, as it produces an im- 
mense quantity of fruit, some of 
which is sent to a great distance. 
In its vicinity are the ruins of the 
castle of Frauenstein. 

About a league before you reach 
Mayence is Blberich (Hotel du 
Rhin), the residence of the Duke 
of Nassau, which was built by 
Prince George Augustus, in the 
beginning of the eighteenth cen- 

G 



122 ROUTE 18. — THE RHINE. COBLENTZ TO MAYENCE. PART III. 



tury. This chateau is particularly 
■well situated on the banks of the 
river, and contains handsome and 
well-furnished apartments. The 
dining room is a rotunda adorned 
with pillars of Limburg marble. 
Behind the chateau extends a vast 
and beautiful garden, by which it 
is united to a delightful and very 
fertile part of the comitry. In this 
■garden stands the old chateau of 
Mosbach, but it is not allowed to 
be opened to the public in general. 
Some valuable monuments are pre- 
served there, collected from various 
places, and Ijearing different dates, 
but most of them have been brought 
from the convent of Eberbach, 
wliich has been sequestrated. 

Near Biberich is a sort of ram- 
part with a deep ditch, extending 
from the bank of the river to the 
forest of Landswald, which passes 
round the Eheingau, and termi- 
nates near Lorch. From a neigh- 
bouring height the traveller will 
enjoy a magnificent prospect ; at 
his feet is seen a dehghtfal country 
interspersed with fruit trees, and 
having the appearance of a beau- 
tiful garden, bordered by the 
chateau of Biberich, and the sil- 
very waters of the Rhine ; on the 
other side of the river appears the 
village of Momhach, crowned with 
a small wood of fir-trees, and be- 
yond it is Gonsenheim. The blue 
mountains of the Rheingau raise 
their lofty summits on the right 
bank of this river, which resem- 
bles a majestic lake, whose waters 
reflect the villages of Schierstein, 
Ellfeld, and Walluf ; three places 
situated on its banks. In the dis- 
tance are seen the mountains of 
Johannisberg and Rochusberg, and 
at the furthest extremity of the 
horizon may be perceived the Bin- 
gerloch. The prospect is not less 
charming on the side of Mayence, 
Castel, and Hochheim. Behind the 
heights of Erbenheim, on a hiU, 
stand the ruins of the castle of 



Sonnenberg, formerly the resi- 
dence of the Emperor Adolphus. 
of Nassau. 

Neid Ingelheim is two leagues 
from Mayence, on the road to Bin- 
gen. The hill near it commands 
a beautiful view, embracing the 
whole of the Rheingau between 
Ellfeld and Bingen. Several au- 
thors have mentioned Ingelheim as 
the birth place of Charlemagne. 
It is certain that he built a superb 
stone palace here, between the 
years 768 and 774, and that he 
frequently resided in it. One hun- 
dred piUars, brought from Rome 
and Ravenna, decorated the out- 
side of this palace. Several gene- 
ral diets and some councils were 
held there, and Ingelheim has been 
the theatre of more than one in- 
teresting scene in the history of 
Germany. Frederick I repaired the 
palace, and Charles IV was the 
last Emperor who resided in it. 
Frederick also built a new chapel 
here, in which he placed some 
canons of the Royal Chapter of 
Prague ; but Ingelheim was soon 
afterwards given by him in pledge 
to the house of the Electors of the 
Palatinate, who retained posses- 
sion of it till within a short time. 
In the war between Frederick 
the Victorious and the Archbishop 
Adolphus of Mayence, the palace 
was burnt by the troops of the 
latter. 

MAYENCE. 

Hotels. Hotel du Rhin, opposite 
the landing place of the steam ves- 
sels which go to and return from 
Mannheim ; is a large estabhshment 
of the first class, and one of the 
best on the Rhine ; the dinners are 
good and weU served. The bed- 
rooms are large, well famished, 
and remarkably clean ; and the 
servants civil and attentive. The 
prices are very moderate. Hotel 
de HoUande; a large, well-situated 
house, with good accommodations. 



THE EHINE ROUTE 18. MATENCE. 



123 



Angkterre, facing the bridge. Eu- 
rope and Hessian Hotds. Three 
Crowns, dirty and dismal. 

Mayence, formerly the residence 
of the first elector of Germany, 
and more recently the chief place 
of a department of France, is now 
the most important town in the 
Grand Duchy of Hesse. It is situ- 
ated in the midst of the most beau- 
tiful and fertile country in Ger- 
many, opposite the mouth of the 
Maine, partly on the brow of a Httle 
hiU, and partly on the banks of the 
river. Its population amounts to 
36,000, without including the gar- 
rison, which consists of 12,000 
Prussians and Austrians, this town 
being an important fortress of the 
Confederation. 

Martins Agrippa, one of the 
generals of Augustus, established 
in this place an entrenched camp, 
intended to oppose the Germans, 
who came in a body from Wies- 
baden with the intention of passing 
to the left bank. Drusus Germani- 
cus afterwards constructed in the 
same place the fort called Magonti- 
acmn. This fort extended, follow- 
ing the same direction as the town, 
from the Mount St Alban to the 
brow of the moimtain called Lin- 
senberg; and on the other side, from 
the brow of the moxmtain called 
Gauthorberg to the ancient Dru- 
sensee (Lake of Drusus), outside 
the gate called Gauthor. The mo- 
numents, which take their date 
from this epoch, are, the Eichel- 
stein, or Drususstein (stone of Dru- 
sus), on the ramparts, and the 
aqueduct near Zahlbach. The Ro- 
man antiquities found here have 
been deposited in the gallery of 
antiquities. Three years after the 
foundation of Magontiacum, Dru- 
sus established another fort oppo- 
site the first, which is now called 
Castel. 

It was in the year 70 of the 
Christian era, that the twenty- 
second legion, which, under the 



Emperor Titus, had assisted in the 
conquest of Jerusalem, came to gar- 
rison Mayence, and with it came 
Crescentius, who is supposed to 
have been the first that taught the 
Christian rehgion on the banks of 
the Ehine under the title of bishop. 
The Emperor Trajan erected a fort 
at the mouth of the Maine, which 
became afterwards, under the reign 
of the Carlo vingian kings, the royal 
chateau called Kufstein. Adrian 
enlarged the fort of Magontiacum, 
and it is said that he bmlt two new 
forts, one of them, which was called 
the upper fort, was situated on a 
height near the village of Wissenau, 
about half a league from Mayence, 
on the side of Oppenheim ; and the 
other, called the lower fort, stood 
on the north side of the town, 
opposite to the first, at a place 
called Haupstein. 

Mayence suffered much during 
the grand struggle between the 
Germans and the Romans, and was 
afterwards entirely devastated. It 
remained buried in ruins till the 
time of the Franks. Charlemagne 
established a convent and school on 
Mount St Alban ; he also con- 
structed a wooden bridge over the 
Rhine, which rested on stone piers. 
The piers of this bridge are to be 
seen in the new museum. It was 
about this time that Winifred, or 
Boniface, was nominated Bishop of 
Mayence, and the town, which be- 
came the seat of a metropohtan 
church, rapidly increased. 

The commerce of the towns situ- 
ated on the Rhine, which was very 
flourishing in the thirteenth cen- 
tury, being continually interrupted 
by the banditti, whose chiefs re- 
sided in the chateaux on the banks 
of the river, Arnaud Walpoden, a 
citizen of Mayence, was the first 
who persuaded his feUow-citizens 
to form a league with the other 
towns. This league, known under 
the name of the Hanseatic Con- 
federation, was concluded in 1355; 



124 



KOUTE 18. — THE RHINE. PART III. 



more than one hundred towns situ- 
ated on the Rhine, and several 
princes, counts, and other nobles, 
united in it. The chateaux which 
served as an asylum for the banditti 
were burnt, and their ruins, which 
still exist, form a very picturesque 
appearance. It is to the first founder 
of the Hanseatic league that the 
comits of Bassenheim Walpoden 
owe their origin. It was towards 
the close of the thirteenth century 
that the town of Mayence attained 
its greatest splendour, and that the 
arts and sciences were in the most 
flourishing state. The poets called 
^linnescinger, or Trabadours, made 
this place their principal residence. 
The one most celebrated was Henry 
Erauenlob, who died in 1318, and 
whose coffin was carried to the 
grave by the women of Mayence. 
He was buried in the cathedral, 
w^here the stone which covered his 
tomb is still to be seen. The epitaph 
has lately been renewed. 

It was about this time that the 
Rhenish confederation built the 
Ivaufliaus at Mayence, one of the 
most elegant monuments in the en- 
virons of the Rhine. This building 
was pulled down in 1813 to prevent 
its falling to decay, and a large 
square has been formed on its site, 
opposite to the hotel of the Three 
Crow7is, which is remarkable for its 
antiquity, having been an imi since 
1360. 

This town gained great celebrity 
in the fifteenth century by the in- 
vention of printing, an honour of 
which Strasburg and Haarlem have 
in vain endeavoured to deprive it. 
The attempts which Guttemberg 
(the original inventor of printing) 
first made at Strasburg, succeeded 
afterwards at Mayence. This town 
soon afterwards lost all its splen- 
dour by the terrible war with Didier 
of Isenburg, and Adolphus of Nas- 
sau. The printers were amongst 
the number of those who emigrated 
to the other towns of Germany, 



where they taught the newly-dis- ! 
covered art. Didier, who after the 
death of Adolphus became again 
bishop of Mayence, rebuilt the 
chateau of Martinsburg (which has 
since been demolished under the 
French government), and in 1417' 
founded an university. In the year 
1797 the town of Mayence became 
subject to France, but was restored 
to Germany in 1814, with all the- 
beautiful coimtry of the Middle andr 
Lower Rhine. Mayence is now the 
capital of the province of Rhenish" 
Hesse, and the principal seat of the 
administration of justice. It has a 
bishop, a chapter, a public semi- 
nary, a medical school, a gymna-' 
slum possessing the collection of 
instruments formerly at the library, 
a lying-in establishment, and a vac- 
cine institution. 

The principal public places are: 
the Parade, formerly the Castle 
square; the Thiermarkt, or cattle 
market, the forum gentile ©f the 
Romans ; the Provision market ; 
the Haymarket; the Brand or Com- 
mercial square; the Flax market;'- 
the Leichofor cemetery; the Tennis 
court ; the Guttemberg square, in 
which is the theatre, and bronze 
statue of Guttemberg, erected in, 
1837. 

The most remarkable object itt^ 
the town is the Cathedral, which' 
suffered a Uttle in a siege during the 
late war. This edifice presents 
specimens of the different styles of 
architecture from the year 900 to 
1500. The east choir and its en- 
trance appear to be of the year 900, 
the nave of 1000, and the west 
choir of 1100. The church has two 
choirs, two cupolas, and four towers. 
The chapels along the nave are of 
the early part of the fourteenth' 
century. The cathedral contains 
the tombs of Bishop Albert of Bran- 
denburg, the grand Prior of Dalberg, 
the General Count de Lamberg, 
Jean Georges de Schbnborn, Fas- 
trada, wife of Charlemagne, and 



THE RHINE.— ROrTE 18» MAYENCE. 



125 



Frauenlob: the two latter are the 
most remarkable. The baptismal 
font was cast in 1325. The Teutonic I 
house, now the Grand Duke's palace, 
which was the residence of Napo- 
leon when at Mayence. The Dalberg 
Palace. The Citadel, viewed by 
permission, from whence there is a 
view of one of the finest comitries 
in Germany. The ancient Schroder 
coffee-house, where there is a 
reading-room and a casino, to which 
strangers are admitted after being 
introduced by a member. It is 
situated in the place where formerly 
stood the house belonging to the 
family of Gensfleiseh of Sorgenloch, 
and which is called Zum Gutteivberg, 
whence the inventor of printing 
derived his name. His prmting 
ofl&ce was in the court called Zum 
Jungen, near the ancient church of 
the Franciscans, where the arms of 
the Guttemberg family are still to 
be seen. Guttemberg first made use 
of long and movable wooden letters. 
Faust, or Fust, who lived in the 
hotel of the Three Kings in the 
Shoemakers' street (Schustergasse), 
made use of cast letters, which were 
invented by Schoffer, of Gernsheim 
on the Rhine, not far from Mayence. 



lection than is to be found in any 
other town out of Italy; it consists 
of twenty-seven altars and votive 
stones, as well as more than sixty 
other stones belonging to the Eoman 
legions, all of which have been 
found in the environs of Mayence. 
Here also is preserved the model of 
a stone bridge which Napoleon had 
projected across the Rhine. The 
Gallery of Pictures, the principal of 
which are, an 'ApoUonia,' by Dome- 
nichino ; a ' Carmelite on his knees,' 
by Hannibal Carracci; an 'Ascen- 
sion of the Holy Virgin,' by Francis 
de Guercino ; ' Christ in the Tem- 
ple,' by Jordaens ; ' Adam and Eve,' 
by Albert Diirer; and the 'Mena- 
gerie,' by Rubens, in which the 
animals are painted by Snyders, 
The Library, containing about 
eighty thousand volumes, among 
which there are some valuable 
works, particularly those printed 
during the infancy of the art, such 
as the Psalter of 1459, the Bible ol 
1462, the Cathohcon of 1460, and 
several thousands of others of early 
date. The Musemn is shown to 
travellers at all reasonable hours. 

English Divine Service takes place 
in the chapel of St Joseph, every 



This man was the preceptor of j Sunday at eleven and three o'clock. 



Faust's children, and afterwards 
became his son-in-law. A column, 
commemorating the invention of 
printing, was erected here, October, 
4, 1824. The Eichehtein, near the 
mountain of St James. This is 
the interior of a monument erected 
in honour of Drusus. The carved 
stones with which the outside was 
covered have fallen a prey to the 
universal destroyer, Time. The 
Favorite, which was formerly a 
summer palace of the Elector, but 
was destroyed during the siege of 
Mayence. It is now a promenade. 

The Museum of Roman monu- 
ments and Picture gallery now oc- 
cupies part of the old palace, which 
has been partly restored; the former 
is certainly a more complete col- 



Mr Labern and Mr Faber, book- 
sellers, keep an extensive assort- 
ment of guides, maps, &c. 

The military bands stationed in 
Mayence perform every Friday 
evening from four tUl six, in the 
New Gardens (Anlagen). The at- 
tendance is generally fashionable 
and numerous, and parties fre- 
quently come from Wiesbaden and 
Frankfort to enj oy this musical treat. 
liheNew Theatrem.the. Guttemberg 
place is open four times a week in 
winter, and occasionally during the 
summer. 

Post office at the Three Crowns. 
Letters for England leave Mayence 
at seven in the morning, and ar- 
rive in summer about ten in the 
morning. 



126 



KOCTE 19 — COBLENTZ TO EMS. PART III, 



There is a very agreeable pro- 
menade along the banks of the 
Rhine, which has been newly planted. 
The Roman aqueduct, and the ce- 
metery, near Zahlmach, are likewise 
worthy of the traveller's observa- 
tion. 

Steam Boats regularly leave 
Mayence for Mannheim, Coblentz, 
and Cologne every day. For fares 
and time of departure see companies' 
biUs. 

It takes nine hours to go from 
Mayence to Cologne; a day from 
Cologne to Nimeguen ; a day from I 
Mmeguen, to Rotterdam; and | 
twenty-two or twenty-four hours ! 
from Rotterdam to London, and five 
hours and a half from Mayence to \ 
Mannheim. j 

Railway Trains from Mayence to j 
Frankfort from the 16th May to the 
30tli September, at half-past six, 
nine, half-past eleven, three, half- 
past five, and half-past eight; fares, 
first class, 2 fl. 6 kr. ; second class, 
1 fl. 27 kr. ; third class, 1 fl. To 
Wiesbaden at quarter before eight, 
quarter-past ten, quarter before 
twelve, quarter-past four, and quar- 
ter before seven; fares, first class, 
36 kr,; second class, 24 kr.; third, 
18 kr. 

Messrs JSTachmann and Son s, bank- 
ers and money changers, Schuster 
street, 110, at the corner of Jesuits' 
street, behind the theatre, and 
nearly opposite the old university, 
now used as a barrack. 

AUTHORISED CHARGE 

For the transport of Carriages and 
Luggage to and from the Steam- 
packets, to the Hotels and Railway 
Station. 

fl. kr. 
For each trunk, weighing 40 pounds 

and upwards . . . . 18 
For each trunk or portmanteau 

above 15 and under 40 . . 12 
For small packages under 15 pounds 3 
If the traveller has but one piece 

under 15 pounds . . .06 
For a light carriage . ..10 



fl. kr. 
For a heavy loaded carriage . . 1 30 
For a pair of post horses to or from 2 12 
From the boat to an omnibus or 
carriage on the quay, 40 
pounds and upwards . . o 3 
under 40 pounds . . . 6 
If the traveller has more than four large 
packages, or eight small, half the above 
charge only. 

Travellers conveyed from the steam boat 
or hotel to railway, or vice versa, each with 
one trunk, carpet-bag, and hatcase, 18 kr. ; 
for each extra trunk, 6 kr. 

Hackney Coach Fares. 



In the Town. 

1 or 2 persons i of hour 
3 ,, 4 ,, 5 ,, 
1 
3 



1 Horse. 2 Horses. 



2 
4 

1 „2 
3 „4 
1 „2 
3 „4 



fl. 1 



kr. 
12 
18 
24 
30 
36 
48 
48 




■fl.l 

- 1 

- 1 



kr. 
IS 
24 
36 
48 
48 


12 



From the Railway to the Neue 

Anlagen, each person . 18 

ROUTE 19. 

COBLENTZ TO EMS, NASSAU, SELTERS, 
SCHWALBACH, VTIESBADEN, HOM- 
BURG, AND FRANKFORT. 

Distance, 14 German miles, 64^ 
English mUes. 

The scenery of the Lahn in many 
parts is little inferior to that of the 
Rhine, though on a smaller scale. 
The new road along its right bank 
from Neidhr-Lahn stein to Ems, 
which has surperseded the old hilly 
road from Coblentz, presents a 
continued succession of beautiful 
scenery. 

Verdant meadows, interspersed 
with fruit trees, hanging woods, 
and romantic dells, amidst the ab- 
rupt declivities of the mountains ; 
on the left are vineyards similar to 
those on the Rhine. The river is 
at mtervals dammed up by weirs, to 
turn the water to mills, on the 
margin of the river. 

Passing " Dorf Ems," surrounded 
with orchards, gardens, and vine- 
yards, we enter the town of 



NASSAU. — ROUTE 19. EMS. 



127 



EMS. 

Hotels. Angleterre. JRussie. Quatre 
Saisons : breakfast, 36 kr. ; dinner 
at table d'hote, 1 fl. 12 kr. ; beds 
from 1 fl. 

The accommodation provided for 
visitors in the "Kurhaus" alone, 
consists of 100 baths, and 273 
apartments, with a restaurateur 
in the establishment for the supply 
of provisions, wine, &c. 

The price of each room and its 
, number is marked on the door, 
which varies from 36 kr. to 1 fl. 
30 krs. per day. The price of the 
baths is also fixed from their situa- 
tion, viz., from 18 to 36 krs., 1 fl., 
and 1 fl. 30 krs. each. 

In this building are extensive 
suits of apartments for the accom- 
modation of sovereigns, and other 
exalted personages, who annually 
visit this place, among whom are 
the Emperor and Empress of Kus- 
sia, King of Hanover, &c. 

Ems, one of the oldest German 
watering places, lies in a narrow 
valley, which is formed of argiUet- 
hills, watered by the Lahn. A 
huge group of rocks rise close by 
the ducal bathing-houses, called 
Baederley, the roughest of all, at 
whose heads the fabulous Hasel- 
mann's caves are situated. The 
country is wild, but neither rough 
nor barren, and can boast of a 
great variety of beauties. There 
are two wells for drinking, and a 
number of springs for bathing. 
Their different temperatures rise 
from 17*=* Eeaum. to 37** or 72*^— 
115" Fahren. The component parts 
of the water are, carbonic acid, 
carbonic acid gas, carbonate of 
lime, and natron, carbonate and 
sulphate of natron, and silicious 
earth. By means of its abundance 
of carbonic acid, united with a vo- 
latile hepathic gas, this water, 
which is used for drinking and 
bathing, is highly useful in many 
disorders. 



The following are the opinions 
of recent medical writers, as to the 
efficacy of the mineral waters of 
Ems. The first, Dr Vogler, states 
" that they are beneficial in affec- 
tions of the chest and lungs ; 
asthma ; pleurisy ; spitting of 
blood ; hysteric and hypochon- 
driac affections ; dropsy of the 
chest ; and disordered respiration : 
also for female complaints it has a 
high reputation." 

Dr ThUenius remarks, "that they 
operate on the human constitution 
rmldly but efficiently, with little 
disturbance of the functions of the 
body. On this account they agree 
well with delicate persons whose 
nerves are morbidly sensitive ; the 
sad effects of mental emotions, or 
other debilitating causes. They 
have a soothing and tranquillizing 
effect on the nervous system. They 
are potent in dismissing glandular 
swellings, and promoting absorp- 
tion of abnormal deposits. 

Dr Jas. Johnson gives the follow- 
ing cautions and advice : — " The 
preparation for the waters of Ems, 
as of all other mineral springs, is 
of the greatest importance, and is 
too little attended to. The best 
season is between the beginning of 
May and the end of September. 
The waters are taken early in the 
morning. Weakly patients should 
begin with small portions, till they 
are accustomed to the springs. 

" Too much water, like too much 
food, will produce the same disten- 
sion and discomfort of the stomach ; 
and the quantity must be regulated 
by the power of digestion ; from 
two to three wine-glasses full of the 
water, taken twice or thrice at in- 
tervals of a quarter of an hour, will 
in general be sufficient. Gentle 
exercise between the doses is also 
necessary ; temperance is essen- 
tially so, during the use of these 
waters, as they generally excite the 
appetite." 

The morning is the best time 



128 



EOUrE 19.^— EMS. PAKT III. 



bathing ; the patient should not 1 
continue too long in the water at ' 
first, not more than from ten 
minutes to half an hour, and keep : 
moving. i 

Dr Doring, a physician at Ems, ' 
gives the following list of diseases 
which are benefited by these wa- 
ters : "Among all the maladies 
which are alleviated or cured by 
the waters of Ems, the affections 
of the chest are of the first consi- 
deration. 

1. Pulmonary complaints having 
their origin in other parts of the 
body. 

2. Loss of voice, hoarseness, &c. 

3. Chronic inflammation of the 
mucous membranes of the larynx, 
trachea, and bronchia. When the 
affection has attained the nature of 
pituitary phthisis, the waters of 
Ems work wonders, especially 
where gout, rhuematism, or repell- 
ed cutaneous complaints are the 
primary cause. 

4. Chronic inflammation of the 
substance of the lungs themselves. 

5. Debility of the chest. 

6. Tubercles of the lungs, or 
pulmonary consumption. 

7. Catarrhs, &c. 

8. Spitting of blood. 

9. Scrofula. 

10. Nervous disorders. 

11. Congestion of the liver and 
abdominal organs. 

12. Gout and Rhuematism. 

13. Chronic eruptions of the skin. 

14. Disorders of the urinary sys- 
tem. 

15. Female complaints. 
Bathing during the winter is as 

salutary as in the summer." 

The "Kursaal," or public assem- 
bly-room, is a large edifice recently 
built, and stands close to the river 
at the end of the Promenade. It 
consists of a spacious salon, seventy- 
two feet square ; with a handsome 
gallery round it, supported by 
twenty columns of Limbourg mar- 
ble, fifteen feet high ; and over this 



for a second gallery, supported 
by a similar row of marble co- 
lumns 

The ceiling and whole interior is 
highly decorated with painting and' 
gilding. A splendid chandelier of 
cut-glass is suspended from the 
centre, and several smaller ones 
hang around it, and give the whole 
a magnificent effect. At each end 
of this room are the gaming apart- 
ments ; those on the right are the 
card-rooms, elegantly furnished ; 
and those on the left comprise the 
salle a manger, coffee-room, and 
offices. 

This building communicates with 
a most elegant colonnade of 200 
feet in length, with shops, bazaar- 
fashion, on one side of it ; and in 
front a flower-garden mtersected 
with gravel-walks, and furnished 
with seats, the whole looking on 
the river. It has a handsome front 
on that side, and opens to the pub- 
lic promenade on the bank of the 
river. 

At the "Kursaal," dm*ing the 
season is a table d'hote daily at 
one o'clock ; the charge is 1 fl. 
and at four o'clock 1 fl. 48 krs. ; 
breakfasts, 36 krs. 

Tables d'hote at one o'clock at 
54 krs. ; and at three, at 1 fl. 30 
krs. ; exclusive of wine at several 
other places. 

As exercise is constantly recom- 
mended, and the valley and the ad- 
jacent hills afford many pleasing 
trips, but are beyond the convenient 
walk of an invalid, to assist in 
the extension of excursions, the don- 
key is pressed into their service ; 
and a more useful, sure-footed 
animal, and better calculated to 
scramble over the mountains, could 
not be found. 

They are well set out with sad- 
dles and bridles, and each has a 
brass plate with his nmnber at- 
tached to his forehead. A sturdy 
driver, whose costume consists of a 
blue blouse with a leathern girdle 



NASSAU. — KOUTE 19. ENVIRONS OF EMS. 



129 



round his waist, and a red cap, at- 
tends each animal. 

Breakfast and dinner over, a 
squadron of these animals are seen 
waiting at the doors of the prin- 
cipal hotels, ready for their riders 
to mount ; and having received the 
word of command, accompanied by 
a vis a teryo , in a thump from his 
driver, on he proceeds at the rate of 
about three or four miles per hour. 

They are hired generally by the 
hour, for which forty kreutzers are 
paid. 

The amusements of the town con- 
sist in a public promenade, and a 
ball given twice a week in the 
" Salle de Reunion." The walk 
along the bank of the river is of 
half a mile in extent, not the least 
fatiguing, and presents to the eye a 
variety of picturesque scenery. 

In the Protestant church in the 
village, a quarter of a mile to the 
west of the town, English service 
is performed on every Sunday dur- 
ing the season, by a clergyman of 
the Church of England ; the ex- 
penses are defrayed by a subscrip- 
tion raised among the visitors ; and 
a collection at the door after divine 
service. 

The environs of Ems are beau- 
tiful and interesting. The romantic 
Linkebach, the shadowy opening of 
a valley, on the left bank of the 
Lahn, is much frequented. Pleasant 
walks on the right bank take you 
to Kemnau, and on the other side, 
up the Spiess and Winterberg. Here 
you meet with beautiful prospects 
into the deep valleys, of wondrous 
forms. The village of the same 
name as Ems lies at a small dis- 
tance from it, and hence a path takes 
you on your left to Fachbach, 
abounding in wine. About half a 
league farther you come to the 
ruins of Sportenburg, by a romantic 
path through thick bushes, up the 
mountain. The architecture of the 
castle is surprising. Tapering 
turrets, united with the walls, seem 



to stand at the corners ; but when 
you come nearer, you find that they 
are pillars terminating in human 
heads. The Pfingstweide, a mine 
and melting-house, well worth 
seemg, lies on the road that leads to 
the romantic valley of Auf. 

From Ems you may proceed by 
a convenient road along the Lahn 
to Nassau, which is five miles 
distant from it. (Inn, the Krone^ 
from whence you have a fine view 
of the ruins of Nassau and Stein.) 
The road takes you through Daii- 
senau { TusenuJ, a league from 
Ems, where an octangular tower 
justifies the supposition that there 
must have been a fortification of 
the valley of the Lahn on that spot. 
Berg-Nassau, a hamlet where the 
avenues of a silver mine are, lies 
half a league upwards from thence, 
on the left bank of the Lahn. The 
little town of Nassau runs along 
the right bank of the Lahn. The 
town is reported to have been built 
by a Count of Lauernburg, whom 
the track of a stag enticed into that 
wild romantic valley. The late 
Baron Stein, who has deserved so 
well of Germany, resided at 
Nassau, and his country seat, which 
is beautifully situated, is shown to 
strangers. 

A conic mount, grand and pic- 
turesque, and clothed with bushes 
and trees, on whose top the ruins of 
the castle of Nassau are seen, rises 
opposite to the town, on the other 
bank of the Lahn, which here may 
be crossed by a chain bridge. It 
was built about 1101, by Count 
Lauernberg, the ancestor of the 
Counts of Nassau. There is now a 
good road to these ruins, which are 
accessible in every direction, and 
you may ascend to the top of a 
weU-preserved tower by a new con- 
venient staircase, where the pros- 
pect of the wild mountainous en- 
virons is very interesting. The 
dungeon underneath the tower still 
exists. The ruins of the castle of 
G 2 



130 



ROUTE 19. — KASSAU. PARI? MI* 



Stein lie in a bold and picturesque 
manner, on the north side, below 
the ruins of Nassau, upon a rugged 
huge block, which in times of yore 
may have separated from the rock. 
The father of the minister, Von 
Stein, had the surrounding woods 
formed into a charming Enghsh 
park. The path goes in a zig-zag, 
amidst trees, upwards, and resting 
seats are found in different spots. 
A small open temple, with a beau- 
ful prospect, stands upon the pro- 
jection of the rock. The miU-brook 
flows below into the Lahn from a 
beautiful lateral valley. The mount 
is composed of argiUit. The ferry- 
ing place to the ruins lies a few 
paces without Nassau, near the 
little village of Scheuern, running 
along a mountain bank, on the left 
bank of the Lahn. 

Persons wishing to proceed di- 
rectly to Schwalbach should take 
the road by Singhofen, Holzhausen, 
and Kemel ; but such as desire to 
see the other beauties of the vaUey 
of the Lahn, and the wells of Geil- 
nau, Fachingen, and Selters, must 
take the road on the right bank of 
the Lahn, past Langenau, and 
Obernhof to Holzapfel, and thence 
to Geilnau. 

The Castle of Langenau lies a 
short league beyond Nassau, in the 
plain, close to the Lahn. Its walls, 
turrets, and embrasures are still in 
very good preservation. The clois- 
ter of Arnstein lies in an oblique 
direction, over against Langenau. 
This cloister, formerly an abbey of 
Prsemonstratensians, lies on a high 
rocky mount, and was originally 
the residence of the Counts of 
Arnstein. The Count Lewis, jun., 
was the last issue of this family, 
who built it in 1139, lived, and was 
buried there. 

You now proceed through a 
wood to the Httle toAvn of Holz- 
apfel, in the county of the same 
name. The ruins of Laurenburg 
appear sidewards on the top of a 



hill, on the Lahn. Charlottenburg, 
a colony of Waldensians, hies near 
Holzapfel. 

There is a very profitable lead 
and silver melting house between 
Holzapfel and Laurenburg, belong- 
ing to the Prince of Schaumburg, 
which annually yields 50 to 60,000 
flor. The castle of Schaumburg 
lies within a short distance from it, 
on the left bank of the Lahn. 
Holzapfel is but a short way dis- 
tant from Geilnau. This mineral 
spring lies on the Lahn, and is five 
leagues distant from Ems. It was 
known in time of yore, but fell into 
oblivion, and did not get into repute 
again before 1809. The water is 
limpid, pearly, pleasantly pungent, 
and if mixed with wine and sugar, 
froths like champagne. Its compo- 
nent parts are carbonic acid gas, 
natrin chlorate, carbonate of natron, 
lime, chlorate of magnesia, and iron. 
Upwards of 100,000 pitchers are 
sent annually to aU parts of Ger- 
many and of Europe. The sanative 
powers of this water, together with 
its pleasant flavour, have procured 
it this considerable sale, which is 
almost equal to the acidulae of 
Fachingen and Selters. It reseim- 
bles the former water very much 
in its component parts and quality. 
It has proved itself particularly 
sanative in diseases of the abdo- 
men, in the stone and gravel, and 
when taken persevermgly, not 
only carried off small stones, but 
prevented the reproduction of new 
ones. 

Fachingen is about two leagues 
distant from Geilnau. The road by 
Schaumburg (which, like Fachin- 
gen, hes on the left bank of the 
Lahn) is rather longer, though no 
traveller will be dissatisfied with 
having taken it. The castle of 
Schaumburg lies toward the bent 
of a curve which the Lahn, forms 
here. Here is the residence of 
the Princes of Anhalt-Bernburg- 
Schaumburg. The Countess Agnes 



NASSAtr. — ROUTE 19. FACHINGEN. 



131 



of Holzapfel bought the castle and 
territory of Schaumburg, in 1656, 
of the Count of Leiningen Wester- 
burg, and redeemed it from the 
feodality of Cologne. By her grand- 
daughter it lapsed to the present 
lords, together with the county of 
Holzapfel. The castle has an ex- 
ceedingly beautiful site, and com- 
mands a charming prospect. Some 
farms lie at the foot of the hilL 
The ruins of Balduinstein are situ- 
ated on the top of a hiU, not far 
frova Schaumburg. The Archbi- 
shop Balduin, of Treves, built this 
castle in 1325. The village of 
Balduinstein lies at the foot of the 
hill. There are considerable iron 
mines between the latter and the 
village of Hansen. 

Whoever is fond of a wild, soli- 
tary landscape, as Ruesdael, Ever- 
ding, and Salvator Eos a have 
painted it, is advised to take a 
trip from Nassau to the castle and 
borough of KatzeneUenbogen. The 
country has a character somewhat 
gloomy and melancholy, but in- 
terests a susceptible mind. 

The shortest way from Schaum- 
burg to Fachingen is only three 
quarters of a league ; but as it is 
an unbeaten mountain path, it may 
be recommended only to practised 
walkers ; such as are not, should 
not mind the roundabout way of 
half a league by the village of 
Berlebach. Fachingen lies between 
high woody hills, in a truly roman- 
tic vaUey. The weU, which was 
discovered in 1745, issues from four 
springs so near the Lahn, that it 
was found necessary to separate it 
from the river by a dam. At high 
water it is, therefore, liable to be 
overflooded. The government of 
Nassau have, however, at a great 
expense, provided means of clear- 
ing the frame immediately. The 
water of Fachingen differs very 
little from that of Selters in its 
component parts. It contains less 
muriatic soda, but more pure kali, 



iron, and carbonic acid gas. It is 
an extremely pleasant beverage, 
especially when mixed with wine 
and sugar, or with milk. As a 
j resolvent it is particularly valu- 
able in disorders of the abdomen, 
the spleen, acidity on the stomach, 
weakness of the organs of diges- 
tion, &c. ; it has also proved its 
I salutary effect in gouty and nervous 
I diseases, giddiness, looseness. It 
' keeps for years, and is, therefore, 
• exported to Russia, the East Indies, 
I and to the Cape of Good Hope. It 
also sits lighter on the stomach 
than many other mineral waters, 
and it is particularly recommended 
by physicians in mucosity, hemorr- 
hoids, and gravel. There are above 
300,000 pitchers filled annually on 
the duke's account. 

The little town of Dietz, belong- 
ing to Nassau, lies a quarter of a 
league above Fachingen, where 
the Aar discharges its waters into 
the Lahn. The old town has in- 
deed the form of aU old country 
towns, but the new town is built 
regularly, and the Dutch cleardi- 
ness and neatness are very con- 
spicuous in the disposition of it. 
Dietz had formerly counts of its 
own, but the family became extinct 
in 1388. The Lahn being navi- 
gable fromWeilberg to the Rhine, 
and the neighbouring vaUey of the 
Aar and its environs very fertile, 
much business is done in grain. 
Oraniestein, a chateau of the Duke 
of Nassau, with very fine planta- 
tions, lies a quarter of a league 
above Dietz. 

A good gravel walk takes you 
from Dietz to Limhurg, which is 
an hour distant from it. This town 
is very ancient, and often men- 
tioned in the history of the middle 
age of Germany. The magnificent 
church of St George is one of the 
handsomest and most remarkable 
monuments of ancient times. It 
was begun, but not finished, by 
the Gaugraf Conrad in the begin- 



132 



ROtTTE 1! 



-SELTfiKS. PART 111. 



ning of the tenth century. There 
are still some interesting old Ger- 
man pictures preserved in it, as 
also in the church of the Francis- 
cans. Limburg is the see of a 
bishoprick for Nassau and Frank- 
fort. Inn, the Nassauer Hof. 

In three hours you may proceed 
from Limburg to Niederseliers. Of 
all the mineral springs of Germany 
this is one of the most celebrated. 
The well issues from the ridge of a 
hill, in a pleasant valley, watered 
by the Ems. It lies only a few 
hundred paces off the village, and 
was discovered first between 1500 
and 1550, but in the thirty years' 
war fiUed up again. This excellent 
water seems not to have been 
valued much for a long time, for 
even in the middle of the eighteenth 
century it was let for 2 fl. 20 kr. 
per annum ; afterwards for 5 fl.; 
and twenty years later for 14,000 
fl. : when at length Triers, who 
owned it, undertook the adminis- 
tration, it produced 80,000 fl. annu- 
ally. Since 1803, the weUs have 
been made a ducal domain ; they 
yield an annual revenue of far 
above 100,000 fl., more than two 
millions of pitchers being sent 
abroad annually. The spring 
abounds in natron or carbonate 
of mineral alkali, which favours 
the solution of iron in it, that 
appears in it only individually as 
an oxyde mixed in water. As this 
water keeps a long while, on account 
of its moderate combination with 
carbonic acid gas, it is drunk all 
over the globe and exported to 
both the Indies. 

It is cooling, searching, enliven- 
ing, promoting all secretions, espe- 
cially those of urine and the. skin, 
less those of the intestinal duct. 
It promotes very much the activity 
of the lymphatic and glandular 
systems, is very digestible, and 
causes no heat, nor congestions of 
the blood. It is, therefore, as salu- 
tary to fuU-blooded and strong sub- 



jects as to weak persons, and of 
eminent use in aU disorders arising 
fr6m the inactivity and weakness 
of the vascular system, from ob- 
structions, obstructed secretions, 
hemorrhoidal affections, liver and 
bilious complaints, rheumatism, 
and scrofula. As a principal 
remedy, it appears to prove itself 
in chronical pulmonary diseases, 
especially in phthisic, both in that 
of the mucose and that of the 
tuberculous kind, and in the in- 
flammatory and purulent phthisis ; 
even when the latter disorder has 
already arrived at a high degree, it 
gives great relief. It is also won- 
derfully efficacious in all kinds of 
asthma, owing to a material con- 
gestion in the lungs, or connected 
with it, as well as in diseases of 
the kidneys, such as gravel, the 
stone, &c. The only cases in 
which it does not agree with the- 
patient, is when his stomach is 
very weak and disposed to flatu- 
lency. A spring of fresh water 
issues within a few paces of the 
mineral well. The inn called Zilm 
Nassauer Hof is the only one at 
Niederselters. 

LANGEN-SCHWALBACH. 

The Hotels are numerous, and 
in general handsome and well 
conducted. In the Upper Town 
are the Allee Saal, or Hotel de 
Promenade, which comprises the 
public assembly and reading 
rooms. It is a large range of 
buildings, and contains a spacious 
" salon a manger," and numerous 
apartments handsomely fitted up. 
It has a table d'hote during the 
season, at one o'clock, at 1 flor. 
(or Is. 8d.) each, not including 
wine ; and at four, at 1 flor. and 
30 krs. Here balls, promenades, 
and concerts are held occasionally. 
Hotel de Due dn JVassau,- a table 
d'hote at one o'clock, at 48 krs. or 
Is. 4d. each ; and at four, at I 
flor. each, or Is. 8d., exclusive of 



NASSAU. — ROUTE 19. LANGEN-SCHWALBACH. 



133 



wine. The Hotel de Poste. It is a 
large and commodious establish- 
ment ; numerous apartments, hand- 
somely furnished. A spacious 
salle- a- manger, table d'hote at one 
o'clock daily, for 48 krs. each. 
hotel de I Europe, a new built 
establishment on a large scale. It 
combines an hotel and lodging- 
house, and has many chambers 
with salons. A table d'hote at one 
o'clock daily during the season, at 
42 krs. 

The prices of lodgings vary much, 
from their situation, and in pro- 
portion to the style of their fitting 
up. 

From 42 krs. to two flor. each 
room, per day, seems to be the 
general average price ; but accom- 
modation for a month may be had 
on much more reasonable terms, in 
many parts of the town. 

This town lies in a pleasant 
valley, which is environed by well 
cultivated mountain fields and 
woody hiUs, which are crossed in 
different directions by causeways. 
They distinguish Ober-and Unter- 
Schwalbach, though both parts are 
no way separated, but connected 
by an uninterrupted row of houses. 
The church of the Roman Catho- 
lics stands in the upper part of 
Schwalbach ; those of the Protes- 
tants in the lower part. One of 
these, lying at the extremity of the 
town, is distinguished by its Go- 
thic antique appearance and charm- 
ing set of bells, and is environed 
by a common churchyard. A 
great number of sanative springs, 
impregnated with mineral particles, 
more or less, most of which are 
used as a refreshing beverage, issue 
in the valley. The Lindenhrunnen^ 
which is frequently drunk by the 
inhabitants like common water, so 
called because it was formerly en- 
circled by a group of fragant 
linden trees, issues in the middle of 
the town ; and the Brodelhrunnen, 
so called because it bubbles like 



boiling water, foams and boils 
lower downwards. Its water is 
very cool, contains little carbonic 
acid and iron, and is, therefore, 
admissible and useful as an ad- 
mixture to the mineral baths. 
This spring was discovered in the 
fifteenth century, before the other 
wells. It is nine feet deep, and 
three feet broad. An outlet is not 
visible. The remaining springs 
of Schwalbach, used by patients, 
are, the Weinhrunnen (^aqu(e vi- 
naricB Usipetum?). perhaps called 
so because it was believed to have 
a wiae-like taste,* or, mixed with 
wine, it is very quickening and re- 
freshiag. It bubbles in the fore- 
part of a pleasant meadow ground, 
near the road to Wiesbaden and 
Schlangenbad ; a double row of 
beech trees, which leads to it from 
the high road, affords a refreshing 
coolness. The water, which is pre- 
ferred to that of the ferruginous 
well, on account of the greater 
coherence and copiousness of its 
component parts, is as limpid as 
crystal, and pleasantly refreshing. 
It was originally the property of 
some families, but at present is a 
ducal domain, and much more has 
been done for the embellishment of 
the environs and the accommoda-r 
tion of visitors than heretofore. 
The Weinhrunnen yields in one 
hour nine Rhenish awmes, at 
eighty quarts the awme. There 
are about 30,000 pitchers exported 
annually. According to the analy- 
sis of Mr Kastner, at Erlangen, the 
Weinhrunnen contains natrin chlo- 
rate, carbonate of iron oxidule, 
carbonate of mangan oxidule, 
carbonate of lime, carbonate of 
magnesia, kalin chlorate, sulphat 
of natron, silica, clay strontian, 
hydro alkali jodat, lithion, and ex- 
tractive matter. 

The Stahlbrunnen, separated from 



* T never could discover any similarity 
in taste between wine and this water. 



134 



ROUTE 19. — LANGEN-SCHWALBACH. PART III. 



the Weinbruimen by a mountain- 
ridge, though communicating with 
it by pleasant shadowy walks, 
issues in an oj)posite pleasant mea- 
dow-ground, running iu a westerly 
direction, and being environed by 
shadowing poplars. This spring 
was discovered in 1740. It has 
nearly the same component parts 
as the Weinbrunnen ; yet its spe- 
cific ponderosity differs, and its 
cubature of fixed minerals is less. 
These different proportions deter- 
mine the use of these waters in 
particular cases. The ferruginous 
well yields in an horn* five awmes of 
water; the annual exportation may 
amoimt to 15,000 pitchers. The 
water of this well is very efficacious 
in all cases of debility arising from 
a very irritable blood, weakness of 
lungs, a disposition to consiunption, 
or irritability of nerves. In dis- 
eases of the abdomen, too, in a 
weak digestion, and acrimony 
arising from it, or in the impurity 
of the juices, this water may be 
recommended. 

The Paulinenquelle, issuing at the 
higher part of the Weinbrunenthal, 
near the Rosenbrunnen, properly so 
called, is the most remarkable, and 
particularly recommended by phy- 
sicians. It was new-framed, and 
ornamented at a considerable ex- 
pense in 1834, and, besides the 
above-mentioned elements, contains 
a greater quantity of carbonic acid 
gas, traces of a heterogeneous metal, 
approximating chiefly to titan, as 
to its effect, has a pleasant taste, 
and has been used by many patients 
with advantage, surpassing all ex- 
pectation, in various disorders. 

The Ehebrxinnen, so called from 
an oak and beech tree grown into 
one, contains also considerable ele- 
ments, but is not much resorted to. 
The Roesel, or Rumpelborn, springs 
in the meadow-ground. 

The splendid new Bathing-hoiise, 
built in 1829, contains forty-two 
very elegant and comfortable bath- 



ing-closets, affording all possible 
conveniences ; a single bath costs 
48 kreutzers and 6 for the atten- 
dant ; to secure a bath at any par- 
ticular hour, bespeak the day be 
fore. Lofty colonnades, built in a 
noble style, and elegant corridors, 
afford, to the bathing and drinking 
public, comfort and protection 
against the inconveniences of the 
weather. The most frequented 
walks at Schwalbach are the 
Ehebaum, the Wiesenbriinnchen, 
the threefold echo, and the Grauen- 
berg. The excursions in the envi- 
rons are to Adolphseck, the ruins of 
a castle, with a small village on the 
Aar. A charming road leads to it 
through a narrow valley, overtopped 
by banks of rocks. The castle lies 
on a high round hUl, with bold 
picturesque environs. The count 
Adolphus of Nassau is said to have 
had it built before he was elected 
emperor of Germany, for his mis- 
tress, with whom he had eloped 
from a cloister, in which he had 
been confined by his wounds and 
carefully nursed by her. In 1695 it 
was still inhabitable, but has fallen 
to decay since. The garden of 
Milchsat affords to strangers a very 
pleasant and quiet retreat. Re- 
freshments of all kinds may be had 
there. The iron forge {Eisenham- 
mer), three quarters of a league 
from Schwalbach. A road takes 
you thither, following the winding 
course of the Aar, which waters 
pleasant meadows and puts in mo- 
tion several iron -works. Hohen- 
stein, two leagues from Schwalbach, 
a mountain castle of a very grand 
character, which was demolished in 
the thirty years' war. The old 
ruins, founded upon huge masses 
of rocks, brave majestically the 
tempests of time, and proudly peer 
down into the depth of the valley, 
in which lies a wretched village. 
In the foreyard of the castle there 
is a well cut into the rock, that 
reaches down to the very depth of 



NASSAU. — ROUTE 19. SCHtANGENBAD. 



135 



the valley, whose waters feed it. 
A convenient staircase leads you 
up the high towers, and seats are 
placed at the top for the accom- 
modation of such as wish to enjoy 
the view of the wild romantic coun- 
try. In the forester's pleasant dwell- 
ing, which is not far off, refresh- 
ments may be had. The ruins of 
the castles of Greifenstein and Kat- 
telenberg are not far off, on the 
Katten, or Hessenalp. 

Donkeys may be hired at 36 kr. 
the hour. 

The countries on the Lahn are, 
in general, graced with many na- 
tural beauties, and you behold here 
a great number of decayed castles 
whose names remind us of many 
vigorous families and energetic 
times. The castle of Schwalbach 
lies two hours from Hohenstein, 
and from Schwalbach. It was 
built by William, Count of Katze- 
nellenbogen, about 1371, and is not 
yet entirely demolished. A league 
farther, in the forest, which is called 
the Fuchshoehle, the ancient castle of 
Hohenfels, with its mighty towers, 
rises aloft. The knight Daniel von 
Langenau is said to have built it in 
the fourteenth century. Its site is 
very beautiful, and one has a charm- 
ing view from its windows. There 
is also an ironwork in the same 
forest, which furnishes the furnace 
of Michelbach with ore for smelt- 
ing. StiU more interesting is the 
castle of Arteck, probably of Ro- 
man origin, which lies farther up- 
ward, towards Dietz. Ancient coins 
are frequently found here, and 
sculptures in relievo fixed in the 
waUs that deserve a minute exami- 
nation. About five miles from 
Schwalbach is 

SCHLANGEKBAD. 

An excellent causeway, leading 
across the mountains, along rocks, 
connects both places. A sick heifer 
caused the discovery of this salu- 
tary bath about two hundred years 



ago. It left the herd every day, 
and the herdsman found it near 
a warm well, where it sought and 
found health. In 1657 Dr Gloxin, 
of Worms, bought these wells of 
the parish of Berstatt, together 
with a parcel of land and the re- 
requisite timber, for two awmes of 
wine. Hesse-Kassel, to whose su- 
premacy that spot was subject, got, 
soon after, possession of the bath, 
and the landgrave Charles ordered, 
in 1694, the requisite dispositions 
and arrangements to be made, 
which were gradually enlarged and 
improved, and cost far more than 
400,000 florins. The landgrave 
Frederic I, afterwards king of 
Sweden, had every year four 
thousand pitchers of it sent to him 
to Stockholm. The site of Schlan- 
genbad, in a deep, solitary valley, 
has, indeed, a somewhat sad and 
melancholy appearance ; however, 
such as are fond of peaceful groves, 
the charms of artless nature, and 
rather commune with themselves 
than converse with others, will not 
here miss the bustle of Wiesbaden 
and Schwalbach. The elements of the 
soft water, which is almost greasy 
to the touch, are chlorate of talc, 
carbonate of magnesia, carbonate 
of natron, natrin-chlorate, carbonate 
of lime, chlorate of lime, carbonic 
acid gas, and azotic gas. Its tem- 
perature is 22° R. or 81^° F. It is 
softening, gently remitting, resolv- 
ing, composing, and purging; hence 
it is to be recommended, particu- 
larly in nervous disorders that do 
not admit of other mineral waters 
or pharmaceutical medicines, nor of 
anything stimulating; in cutaneous 
diseases, too, and stiffness of limbs 
it is also "N'ery efficacious. The 
Nassauer (formerly M^iizer) house, 
built in 1701, comifi;^t^tes by a 
passage with the oldl^gsian house. 
There are three wej|^&re, yielding 
about 3,500 awmgg^OF^ater in an 
hour, and ten sm^ous baths, one of 
which is a shcls^r bath. Two of 



136 



ROL'TE 19. — WIESBADEN. PART III. 



them are lined with porcelain, and 
one with marble. There are six 
other baths in the new house. The 
proceeds of these wells are, upon 
tlie whole, but indifferent, and 
keeping them up is, in consequence, 
an amiable sacrifice made to suffer- 
ing mankind. A walk to the 
eminences of Genrgenborn. or to the 
chapel of Rauenthal, from Schlan- 
genbad on the height of Bahen, or 
JBahenhauseri, will be found very 
pleasant. Here you have one of the 
finest views of the Rheingau. Re- 
mains of singularly fashioned ma- 
sonry, called the alte Burg, are 
found between Rauenthal and Kide- 
rich 

English Church Service is per- 
formed by the Rev. William Phelps 
in the evening at five, and in 
Schwalbach, in the morning at 
eleven. 

WIESBADEN. 

Ho I els. AdlfT and Pode- House. — 
This is decidedly the best hotel in 
Wiesbaden ; a residence of some time 
enables me to recommend this house 
for cleanliness, civility, liberality, 
and moderate charges. It does not 
display that splendid half-starved 
misery which is too often to be met 
with at the fashionable German 
Spas ; but the traveller, in pursuit 
of either pleasure or health, will 
here find substantial comforts, ad- 
ministered in a prompt and satis- 
factory manner. The proprietor, 
Mr Schlichter, speaks English re- 
markably well, and pays the utmost 
attention to his guests. There are 
table d'hotes every day at one and 
four o'clock served in a spacious 
and elegant dining-room. Behind 
the hotel is a beautiful and exten- 
sive garden ; here is a thermal 
spring, which supplies the bibbers 
and the bathers without going be- 
yond the premises. The bath- 
rooms are most comfortably fitted 
up. The post office is in the court- 
yard. 



Four Seasons. — This house has 
much fallen off, the proprietor hav- 
ing thought more of, and bestowed 
more attention on his new than his 
old house. 

The Rose. — This is a good house, 
with garden, baths, &c. Table 
d'hote at one and four. 

The ]Vassau, English Hotel, Tau- 
ntis. Promenade, London, and nume- 
rous others in various parts of the 
town, named after "the birds in 
the air, and the fish in the sea," 

Wiesbaden is only two leagues 
and a half distant from Schlangen- 
bad. Such, however, as are fond 
of a rich and charming prospect, 
should return by the gravel-walk 
leading from Schwalbach to Wies- 
baden across the hohe Wurzd, as it 
is called. You may also proceed 
by a footpath, by the way of Georgen- 
born. Before you lies the extensive 
valley of the Rhine, with the glit- 
tering river which serpentines 
down from the hills of the Black 
Forest. Over against you, Mentz 
lies expanded with its spires ; slop- 
ing eminences rise behind you, and, 
at a farther distance, the Taunus 
towers up to the clouds. On your 
right, the first villages of the Rhein- 
gau are coming in view, along the 
banks of the river, and a little to 
your left you behold the woody tops 
of the Bergstrasse. The luxuriant 
valley of the Main ranges on your 
left, where Frankfort appears in 
fluctuating outlines At the foot 
of the mountain Wiesbaden disap- 
pears between hills. 

That the Mattiaks have dwelled 
here in ancient times is doubtless. 
Drusus built a castle at Wiesbaden 
near the wells, and one can still 
see the remains of it in the Heiden- 
mauer (heathen wall), as it is called, 
which terminates the churchyard 
towards the east, at a length of 
about 650 feet. The remains of 
Roman baths have also been dis- 
covered. One of these was found 
in the Schuetzenhof (archers' court) ; 



NASSAU. — ROUTE 19. WIESBADEN. — HOTELS. 



137 



it was ninety feet long ten feet 
broad, and five feet high. The tiles 
with which the substruction was 
covered, had the number of the Xll 
legion. In 1 8 1 5, when the bathing- 
house Sum weissen Lowen (now 
Roemerbad), near theKochbrunnen, 
was building, the ruins of Roman 
steam-baths were discovered. A 
tile was marked with the number of 
the XIIII legion. The masonry of a 
third Roman bath was dug out in 
1807 , in the garden of the late post- 
master, Mr Schlichter. Subter- 
raneous apparatus for sweating- 
baths occur, too, in the Saalgasse. 
Interesting Koman coins were 
found near the castle turret. With 
the Salic Franks Wisibadum ap- 
pears as the main seat of their 
Kcenigshundrede (Kunigesundra), 
which stretched from Eppstein as 
far as Walluf. The Carlovingians 
had a palace here, in which Charles 
the Great sometimes sojourned, 
and, at a later period, Otto the 
Great, who granted to Wiesbaden 
the privileges of a town (965). The 
spot on which the royal palace 
(sala) stood was excavated in the 
beginning of the eighteenth cen- 
tury, when masonry, floors of 
gypsum, and painted walls were 
found. 

Wiesbaden has sixteen warm 
and two cold mineral springs, 
which are mostly used for bathing. 
The elements of the water are : car- 
bonate of lime, magnesia, natrin 
chlorat, muriate of lime, and mag- 
nesia, sulphat of natron and sulphat 
of lime, alumina, and some iron dis- 
solved in carbonate of natron. 
These elements impart to the water 
a very efficacious power in gout 
and rheumatism, in cutaneous dis- 
seases, apoplexy, palsy, stiffness of 
joints, &c., whence this watering 
place has been frequented very 
much of late. The hottest spring, 
or the Kochbrunnen (scalding well), 
which was rebuilt very tastefully 
some years ago, and, at the same 



time, furnished with a drinking 
establishment, has a temperature of 
52° R. or 149" Fahr. 

It is calculated that the quantity 
of water issuing from the several 
sources in twenty-four hours is not 
less than 84,692 cubic feet, or 
11,000 hogsheads; and that it con- 
tains 42,000 pounds of solid matter. 

The taste of the water has been 
compared to weak chicken broth 
slightly salted ; and it emits an 
odour much like that of lime dur- 
ing the process of slaking with 
water. 

It is taken generally, at an early 
hour in the morning, in the quan- 
tity of from three to five glasses at 
intervals of a quarter of an hour 
between each. Persons begin to 
assemble round the "Kochbrunnen" 
at five o'clock in the morning; each 
with a steaming potation in his 
hand, too hot to be immediately 
swallowed, moving carefully along 
the walk adjoining the spring with 
the utmost caution, lest any of the 
healing fluid should be spilled before 
it is drank. 

The bathing houses have two 
partitions, one for lodging, and one 
for bathing, they are twenty by 
forty feet high. In most of the 
bathing rooms you may see the 
naked roof, which has one, or 
several openings, to permit the 
vapours to escape. In each bath- 
ing house there are from thirty to 
sixty bathing closets. The floor is 
commonly bricked. A bath costs 
thirty-six to forty-eight kreutzers. 
The price of an apartment with a 
bed, in the bathing houses, in the 
season, from 10 to 15 fl. a week. 
It is said that all the dug fountains 
are brackish and cannot be drunk. 
Some of them are near the hot 
wells, which does not, however, 
diminish their natural coldness. 
This justifies the supposition that 
the original hearth of the warm 
wells must lie at some distance 
from the town, probably in the 



138 



EOUTE 19. — WIESBADEN. PART III. 



north-western hills. They appear 
to lie very deep, as they are influ- 
enced neither by dry nor wet sea- 
sons. Not even the hot summer 
of 1834, when many springs were 
dried up, had any influence on these 
mineral wells. The town has, at 
present, only one potable fountain 
in the market place. It is well 
water, and comes from the road to 
Schwalbach. Within these last 
thirteen years a well has been 
framed at the Platte, which amply 
supplies the town with water, 
though not so abundantly as a 
fountain would require. Some cold 
brooks flow through the town, and 
receive the refuse of the warm 
springs. 

The Kursaal is a beautiful es- 
tablishment. The first object that 
strikes your eyes is the splendid 
portico of six colossal columns of 
the Ionian order ; two halls run 
along the right and left hand, 
each of them supported by twelve 
Doric columns. These colonnades, 
terminating in pavilions, before the 
saloon, contain numerous shops. 
The space between the arcades and 
the main biiilding, as well as the 
surrounding plantations, are used 
as promenades. The main build- 
ing contains a ball room, halls for 
dining and gaming. The internal 
arrangements, decorations, and fur- 
niture are very tasteful ; over the 
entrance is an elegant loge or box 
supported also by marble columns, 
with a suit of rooms attached, for 
the accommodation of the family of 
the Duke and his court. The op- 
posite end opens to the garden and 
pleasure grounds. A beautiful cast 
of the Apollo Belvedere, of gj-psum, 
and other statues and busts, of 
Carian marble, are exhibited here. 
The twenty-eight Corinthian co- 
lumns that support the gallery in 
the large saloon are of inland black- 
grey marble, which is found in the 
vicinity of Limburg, near Vilmar 
on the Lahn. The whole is con- 



structed of stone, and has a front 
of 350 feet, and a depth of 170. 

The sides of the room are orna- 
mented with twelve large mirrors, 
and the intervals decorated with 
statues and vases of the purest Car- 
rara marble. Among them are a 
statue of Apollo by Ghirard of 
Rome, a Diana, Venus, Hebe, Me- 
nelaus, Bacchus, and some busts: 
They were executed by Franzoni 
di Carrara, a pupil of Canova, for 
Letitia, mother of Napoleon Bo- 
naparte, but from the change which 
took place in the fortune of that 
family, they were sold; and now 
form a splendid ornament to this 
noble room. The ceiling is coved, 
and richly decorated; and from it 
are suspended five chandeliers of 
cut glass of large dimentions. Eight 
candelabras, ten feet high, add to 
the ornaments of this apartment, 
all harmonizing in elegance with 
each other ; the small ball-room is 
a most splendid room, and when 
lighted up, is not exceeded in bril- 
liancy by any room in Germany. 

On the left are the refreshment 
rooms, and on the other a suite of 
rooms, appropriated to roulette, 
and rouge-et-noir tables. 

Immediately behind the Kursaal, 
is a spacious area, planted with 
trees; and a sheet of water sur- 
rounded by trees, shrubs, and beds 
containing a collection of the choic- 
est shrubs and flowers, the trees 
are most luxuriant. 

For the following interesting 
description of the Museum I am 
indebted to the ' Mirror of Nassau," 
by the Rev. W. Phelps, to the pages 
of which I beg to refer my readers 
for a full and highly interesting 
history and general description of 
the Duchy of Nassau. Description 
of the building: library; reading- 
room ; hours when open ; museum, 
its contents; Roman remains; an- 
cient German relics; sculptures of 
the temple of Mithras at Heddern- 
heim; description of them; obser- 



NASSAU. — ROUTE 19. WIESBADEN. KURSAAL. 



139 



vations on the worship of Mithras ; 
altar screen from Marienstadt; old 
tombs; picture gallery; collection 
of minerals; geological specimens; 
collection of specimens of natural 
history, viz. ichthyology ; zoology; 
ornithology, and entomology. 

This establishment occupies a 
large handsome edifice situated in 
the Wilhelms strasse ; having a 
portico supported by four Ionic 
columns, over which is a pediment. 
A porte-cocher leads into a vesti- 
bule supported by twenty -four Do- 
ric fluted columns, and has a noble 
appearance. It contains a library, 
reading room ; committee and libra- 
rian's room on the right } on the 
left a large collection of antiquities ; 
subjects of natural history, zoology, 
mineralogy, geology, and entomo- 
logy; with numerous specimens of 
ancient German and Koman anti- 
quities, arranged in a suite of 
rooms, appropriated for their re- 
ception. 

The following brief sketch of the 
contents of the several apartments 
will direct the attention of the cu- 
rious and scientific visitor to them. 

On the right is the library occu- 
pying a suite of handsome rooms, 
and weU stored with a collection of 
books, upwards of 70,000 in number, 
and many valuable manuscripts. 
One beautifully written on vellum, 
and richly illuminated with gold 
letters, and paintings, is entitled 
' Visions of St Hildegarde and St 
Elisabeth of Schoenau,' 1287 ; also 
the following specimens of early 
printed books : — 

Catholicon. Mogunt. 1460. Part 
of the old Testament. Mogunt. 1462. 
Summa theologise, Thomse de Aqui- 
nas, 1464. Valerius Maximus. 
Mainz, 147 1 — 1473. Bible and 
Testament. Strasbourg, 1485. He- 
rodotus and Thucidydes, 1490. 
Ovidii Metamorph. Venetiis, 1497. 

Busts of Virgil; Isis; a Greek 
muse; Mucius Scaevola; Apollo; 
Aristotle; Plato; Augustus ; Li- 



via; Hadrian; and Julian; with 
numerous votive altars; a Lion 
found at Heddernheim, &c. 

The reading room is open on 
Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, 
from nine o'clock till twelve in the 
forenoon ; and from two till five in 
the afternoon. Strangers intro- 
duced to the Secretary of the li- 
brary, Mr Zimmermann, will re- 
ceive every polite attention, and 
may have the loan of books out of 
the library, upon giving a receipt 
for them. Philosophical and lite- 
rary journals and periodical works 
are to be found always lying on the 
table. 

The museum is open on Mon- 
days, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and 
Fridays, from three to six o'clock 
in the afternoon. On the left of the 
vestibule is a suite of rooms, con- 
taining early German and Koman 
antiquities, well arranged. 

No. 1. A case filled with urns 
and Roman vessels in great variety. 
A glass vase fifteen inches high, 
and ten in diameter, with a cover 
and two handles, deserves parti- 
cular attention. It contains burnt 
bones, and was found at Kreuz- 
nach. A large cast of the head of 
' Saturn, ' from the original by 
Melchior, in the cathedral at Mentz. 

No. 2. Contains several votive 
altars. Two cases of Roman pot- 
tery; a case of bronze figures. 

A small standard of the XXII 
Roman legion is a curious relic. 
It is of brass, representing a Capri- 
corn ending with a fish's tail, hold- 
ing in his mouth a ring, from which 
hangs a heart-shaped leaf. Between 
his fore feet is an eschallop shell, 
to which is attached two similar 
leaves, besides several appended 
to different parts of the body. A 
similar figure is found sculptured 
on stones, marked Leg. XXII, and 
on coins found in this district, in 
bronze and iron ; swords of ancient 
form, &c. 

No. 3. In this room are eight 



140 



ROUTE 19.— WIESBADEN. MUSEUM. PART III. 



cases filled with Roman vases ; 
amphorae, lamps, paterae, lachry- 
matories, and other utensils in an 
infinite variety of forms in pottery 
and in glass; with several votive 
altars. The most curious and in- 
teresting is a large piece of Roman 
sculpture five feet nine inches wide, 
and six feet high, standing at the 
end of the room. It is a spirited 
groop in high preservation, and 
found amidst the rains of a temple 
dedicated to the worship of "Mi- 
thras" at Heddernheim,near Frank- 
fort. It represents, in the i)rincipal 
group, Mithras, a Persian Deity, 
kneeling on a hull, which is lying 
prostrate under him ; with one hand 
he grasps the nostrils of the ani- 
mal ; and with the other he has 
plunged a sword into his neck. 
There are numerous other figures, 
which we shall describe hereafter. 

Many detached portions, sculp- 
tured with figures resembling those 
on the large stone, are placed 
around; all of which were found 
in the same temple, in 1826. 

The following observations, de 
rived from authorities connected 
with the history of this singular 
and rare relic of antiquity, it is 
hoped, will be found not uninte- 
resting. 

Mithras. The worship of Mithras 
is the most ancient religion in the 
world, said to have been introduced 
by Zoroaster in the Eastern world ; 
and formed part of the religious 
system promulgated by Djemchid, 
and mixed with the worship of the 
sun. It is the " Sabeism " of 
" Hauching," or the religion of the 
" Mechabad" of Dabistan in Persia. 

It is supposed to have been the 
worship of Baal, exercised by the 
Chaldeans ; and the resemblance 
between Mithras and Baal is very 
striking. 

The worship of Mithras in Rome 
is supposed to have been introduced 
into that city from Asia-Minor 
(where it has long been natural- 



ized) during the war against Mi- 
thridates. King of Pontus; and the 
Ciiician pirates. 

Plutarch alludes to this worship, 
which is a proof it was known in 
his time and was promulgated in 
Rome B. c 68 : publicly established 
during the reign of Trojan, a.d. 
101; and adopted much in the 
time of Antoninus. 

The Romans introduced it wher- 
ever they extended their conquests, 
and remains of temples dedicated 
to the service of this deity have 
been found in Germany, Gaul. 
Switzerland, Pannonia, Dacia, and 
even in England, near the Roman 
wall in Northumberland. 

How great must have been the 
influence of this newly-introduced 
religion, after it had received the 
Imperial sanction ; so as nearly to 
have annihilated the previous pa- 
gan worship of the Romans. It was 
undoubtedly adopted by the Roman 
generals, wherever they extended 
their conquests ; and temples dedi- 
cated to the worship of Mithras 
are frequently found wherever the 
Romans had been settled. 

The cave dedicated to this wor- 
ship in Rome was situated imme- 
diately at the foot of the Capitol, 
where is now the flight of steps 
which lead to the church of " Ara- 
Caeli," adjoining that edifice. It 
was destroyed by the order of 
Gracchus, A. d- 377; yet its wor- 
shippers were found down to the 
time of A. D. 390. 

The mysteries of Mithras, as the 
mysteries of Eleusis and others, 
were the last refuge of pagan wor- 
ship after the introduction of Chris- 
tianity. Justin and Tertullian no- 
tice its existence ; and the resem- 
blance of its practice and ceremo- 
nies with those of the Christian 
religion is striking. 

Gregory of Nazianzen and Je- 
rome expreses their opinion on this 
subject, and attached much impor- 
tance to its rivalry with the Chris- 



NASSAU. — ROUTE 19. WIESBADEN. MUSEUM. 



141 



tian faith ; and the establishment 
of Christiaoity was one of the prin- 
cipal causes of the success, and of 
the development of the worship 
of Mithras throughout the Roman 
empire, till it yielded to the tri- 
umph of Christianity. 

We find a description of this de- 
ity in Baruch and in Jeremiah. 

The principal attributes and qua- 
lities of Mithras were : purity ; 
truth ; greatness ; power ; vigi- 
lance; justice; wisdom; heroism; 
protection ; and mediation. 

Its emblem was a b uU which 
represents the earth, carrying on 
his back Mithras or the sun. 

The deity is opening with his 
pionard the veins of the animal; 
which appears to be a natural sym- 
bol of the sun, whose rays ferti- 
lize the earth. 

In contemplating this highly in- 
teresting relic of antiquity, how 
symbolical is the whole design, re- 
presenting the Creator typified un- 
der the figure of Mithras. 

In the upper compartment the 
" God of day" is seen taking leave 
of Mithras, and mounting his car, 
to which four horses are attached, 
who appear eager to start and as- 
cend the mountain before them, 
which is emblematic of their daily 
course through the arch of heaven. 
On the other side of the hill the 
car is seen descending with the 
deity, reclining at his ease, and 
rapidly approaching the horizon, 
having run his daily course. 

In the next compartment below, 
man is seen rising into life from a 
palm tree. Mithras, holding the 
bull by the hind legs, shows the 
power he has obtained over the 
animal, and is emblematic of the 
earth, which has been made sub- 
servient to the use of man. The 
next figure represents Mithras 
placing a radiant crown on the head 
of a woman to typify the rays of 
the sun 'gain extending their influ- 



ence, by which the earth is to be 
rendered fertile and productive 

The figure with the radiant 
crown is next seen kneeling before 
Mithras who extends his hand to 
assist in raising her up, after being 
exhausted by the effects of pro- 
duction. 

The four winged heads at the 
angels represent the four winds ; 
the next four heads the seasons 
That of spring has a chaplet of 
roses, and the other four are, per- 
haps, allusive to the four stages of 
animal and vegetable life. 

We come now to the principal 
group below. On the back of the 
bull, Mithras is seen, having plung 
ed a sword into the neck of the 
bull, and the blood gushing out of 
the wound. This is an exemplifi- 
cation of the piercing effects of the 
rays of the sun on the earth. The 
dog leaping up, may be allusive to 
the rising of Sirius, or the dog-star, 
a period in the annual revolution 
of the earth when the rays of the 
sun are most requisite to ripen the 
fruits of the earth. On one side, 
or rather at the tail of the bull, a 
figure is seen, holding an inverted 
torch allusive to the previous ab- 
sence of the sun. On the other 
side, another figure, with his torch 
upright, leaning against a tree in 
full foliage, round which a serpent 
is entwined, and whose head is 
seen above the top of the tree. This 
is emblematical of the vivifying 
rays of the sun, which has called 
into life the animal and vegetable 
kingdom. 

The signs of the zodiac marked 
on the arch represent the other and 
annual course of the sun ; and the 
whole of this group appears to be 
symbolical of the presence of the 
sun, summer, or day. 

On the reverse of this stone are 
figures symbolical of winter, and 
the absence of the sun, or night. 
The bull is here seen prostrate, and 
apparently asleep, a striking em- 



142 



ROUTE 19, — WIESBADEN. MUSEUM.-— PART III. 



blem of the earth having brought 
forth and matured its fruits : he is 
now reposing to recruit and refresh 
his prolific powers. Mithras is pre- 
senting, from a cornucopia, the 
fruits of the earth to man ; and 
two other figures, in Phrygian 
bonnets, are also bringing baskets 
of fruits. Above the arch are seen 
the lower part of a human figure, 
too much decayed to aiford room 
for conjecture. On the top of the 
arch are seen the bull, sheep, "end 
hog, in repose ; and the ferocious 
animals — the lion, tiger, and wolf 
starting off in pursuit of their prey 
under the cover of night, or absence 
of the sun. 

Several small stones bear sculp- 
tured representations bf many of 
the figures seen on the large stone, 
and were found among the rubbish 
within the ruined temple of Mithras 
at Heddernheim. 

In the Borghese Palace at Kome 
is a similar piece of sculpture, re- 
presenting Mithras ; and several 
others in the Museum of the Capi- 
tol, but they are smaller, and con- 
tain only part of the subjects found 
at Wiesbaden. 

For a further description of the 
worship of Mithras, see 'Hammer's 
Memoire sur le culte de Mithras.' 
' Paelix Lagard Eecherches sur le 
culte de Mithras.' Vol. II. Paris. 
Seel. H. ' Die Mithrasgeheim- 
nisse. Aarau, 1823. 

No 4. Is an apartment contain- 
ing books. 

No. 5. Has many interesting ob- 
jects of curiosity. A large and 
gorgeous altar screen, brought from 
the dissolved monastery at " Ma- 
rienstadt," in excellent preserva- 
tion, exhibits not only the skiU of 
the artificer in the construction of 
so elaborate a piece of work ; but 
the expensive decoration in its 
painting and gilding. We have 
already noticed a magnificent and 
larger work of this kind in the 
church of Ober-Wesel. 



No. 6. Contains several votive 
altars ; a collection of Eoman in- 
struments ; large cinerary urns of 
the ancient Germans and Romans. 

Model of the Castle of Rudes- 
heim, &c. 

No. 7. Models of huts found in 
the island of Borneo. 

A number of fine Rpman votive 
monuments, with effigies ; one to 
C. VAL. GEBERTA LEG. VHI; 
another to LVCIVS VETVRIVS 
LEG. XIV, &c 

Staircase. Here are seen several 
large sarcophagi, and remains of 
Roman antiquities ; figure of a lion 
and fragments. 

Ascending to a lobby, a pair of 
folding doors open into a suite of 
apartments of large dimensions, 
richly stored with objects of curi- 
osity and science. 

The Picture Gallery contains a 
small collection of pictures, some 
by the celebrated ancient masters. 
The number is 136. 

No. 8. Several paintings and 
cases of butterflies found in the 
duchy of Nassau. Among them 
many rare and beautiful speci- 
mens. 

No. 9. Cases of mineralcgical 
and geological specimens. Mine- 
rals with their oxides and crystal- 
lization. 

No. 10. A fine stuffed specimen 
of the Hippopotamus of the Nile, 
ten feet long, and four feet high 
Here are also cases of geological 
specimens ; coal and other fossils ; : 
shells and organic remains. 

Returning through the picture 
room, enter on the right, to the 
zoological collection. 

No. 11. Contains various speci- 
mens of fishes, some of curious 
form. In the centre of the room 
are cases containing eggs of birds, 
and crustaceous fish. 

No. 12. A collection of skeletons 
of animals, birds, &c., for compara- 
tive anatomy. Cases of monkeys, 
bears, wolves, &c. 



NASSAU.— ROUTE 19. WIESBADEN. 



143 



No. 13. Contains a large collec- 
tion of preserved birds, well ar- 
ranged; also a lion, tiger, wild 
boar, deer, &c., and many other 
animals. 

The collection is sufficiently large 
to interest the naturalist. 

This collection is placed under 
the inspection of the directors of 
the society for the archaeology and 
history of Nassau, which was 
established in 1821, with the ap- 
probation of, and supported by, 
government. This society hare 
made it an object of their particu- 
lar care to search for, collect, and 
describe the Roman and German 
antiquities found in the duchy of 
Nassau, as well as to promote all 
geographical, statistical, and his- 
torical illustrations relating to 
them, and to preserve the existing 
documents, as also those of the 
middle ages. The society consists 
of about 150 members. 

The Palace is a new and hand- 
some edifice in the Market Platz, 
It has two fronts, with the entrance 
at the angle, under an ornamented 
portico, and was built in 1837 — 
1838. A large building adjoins it 
containing the offices. The interior 
is fitted up most elegantly. It 
stands on the site of an ancient 
palace, belonging to the Counts of 
Nassau. 

A large and handsome edifice has 
been erected in the Louisen-Strasse 
and Frederick-Platz, called the Mi- 
nisterium, for the accommodation of 
the Legislative assembly, and to 
provide suitable offices for the 
" ministry," who conduct the aflairs 
of the duchy. 

The Theatre is a large and hand- 
some building, with a portico. 
The interior is conveniently fitted 
up. 

Plays, operas, and ballets are 
performed four times a week. 

Admission to the boxes, 1 flor. 
12 krs. ; stalls, 1 flor. ; second 
boxes, 42 krs. ; amphitheatre, 18 



krs. ; and gallery, 12 krs. The 
performance begins at half-past six 
o'clock, and generally ends soon 
after nine. 

The Theatre has a large grant 
from the duke annually. 

The remaining buildings are the 
new Artillery Barracks, the Mint, a 
Roman Catholic Church. buUt in a 
handsome style. The Hospital 
is an extensive range of building 
situated near the Kochbrunnen 
spring, and was founded by Adol- 
phus. Emperor of Germany, in a.d. 
1296. It contains accommodation 
for 250 patients. It is appropriat- 
ed to the use of the poor of the 
city and district, and for indigent 
strangers, who have their lodging 
gratuitously. It has hot baths for 
the use of patients. 

There is also in the court of the 
"Hotel des Chasseurs" a public 
bath for labourers and servants, 
who pay two kreutzers only for its 
use. 

English Church Service is per- 
formed every Sunday morning in 
the summer at eleven, and evening 
at six, by Mr Lanfear ; and in the 
winter at eleven and four. 

Reading-room in the right wing 
of the Kursaal is well supplied with 
English, French, and German pa- 
pers. 



TERMS. 






fl. kr 


For three months 


8 6 


„ one month . 


3 35 


,, one week . 


1 


,, one day 


12 



During the winter, when the above 
establishment is closed, there is a 
reading-room for the use of the 
English residents in the Nassau 
hotel ; the apartment is weU light- 
ed and warmed, and supplied with 
English papers and periodicals. 

Post office, in the Adler Court. 
Mails for England, via Ostend, 
leave daily at half-past nine o'clock 
in the morning ; via Prance, daily 
at four o'clock in the afternoon. 



144 



ROUTE 19. — ^ENVIRONS OF M'^IESBADEN. PART III. 



Tables d'hote The dinners at the 

Kursaal on Sundays are generally 
excellent, and numerously attended ; 
the charge is the same as elsewhere 
— 1 fl. at one ; 1 fl. 45 at four 
o'clock. 

Carriages may be hired for ex- 
cursions by the day or hour. 

Saddle-horses and Donkeys may 
be hired at the rate of 36 krs. 
the hour,or to go andturn 





fl. kr 


From the Platte . 


1 24 


,, Mosbach and Biberich . 


1 


„ Schlangnnbad 


2 


,, Sonnenberg ruins . . 


40 



Diligences, ^c, to Schwalbach, 
Nassau, Ems, and Coblentz, every 
morning at half-past nine o'clock. 
To Limburg and Cologne Sunday, 
Tuesday, and Thursday, at hahP- 
past four. To Kudesheim, through 
Biberich, Schierstein, Eltville, Win- 
kel, &c., at ten in the morning. 

Steam Packets, belonging to the 
Cologne and Dusseldorf companies, 
land and receive passengers at Bi- 
berich, both up and down the 
Bhine ; places may be taken at 
either of the offices, in the Market- 
platz ; omnibuses call for passen- 
gers when booked, and convey 
them to and from the boats : fare, 
21 krs. 

Prices of Provisions are very mo- 
derate, as the following list will 
show : 

Meat per lb. 

kr. 
Beef .... 12 
Mutton . . . . 10 
Veal .... 9 

Pork .... 12 

Bread . . • 3 

Butter . . . 21 to 30 

Poultry scarce and not very cheap. 

Banker. Marcus Berle. 

Of the walks of Wiesbaden, the 
Neue Anluge (new plantation) is 
the most pleasant. It runs from 
the late Herrengarten (gentlemen's 
garden) round the Kursaal (pump- 
room) and the large pond behind 
it, up the brook to the Dietenmuehk 



(a quarter of a league), which is 
very much frequented, and thence 
as far as Sonnenberg. 

Nature has been very profuse in 
her gifts of beauties to this sana- 
tive place. Of the numerous inte- 
resting environs we mention, par- 
ticularly, the Nero'sberg, with the 
valley of the same name. This 
mount lies half a league north- 
westward from Wiesbaden. In the 
old oak forest that crowns its sum- 
mit, there are remains of Roman 
masonry, that might originally have 
formed a square of about 140 feet. 

An excellent causeway takes you 
to the village and castle of Sonnen- 
berg, half a league distant from the 
baths. The castle lies in the vil- 
lage, on a chalk hill. You enter 
the ruins by a tolerably preserved 
gate, which towards the south has 
a prospect of the Rhine, and to the 
north a view of the surrounding 
mountains. There is now an 
apartment fitted up in the ancient 
German style, in « the tower, and a 
staircase that takes you to the 
plateau. The chapel of Rambach 
appears in a picturesque manner 
in the background. Adolphus of 
Nassau fortified Sonnenberg against 
the inroads of the dynasts of Epp- 
stein. The (late , pheasants' war- 
ren, three quarters of a league from 
the town in a pleasant meadow 
ground, environed by a cheerful 
grove. Several pleasant views also 
present themselves from here. 

Klarenthal over against the phea- 
sants' warren, formerly a nunnery, 
founded by Adolphus of Nassau 
and his consort Imogina. His sis- 
ter was made abbess, and his daugh- 
ter prioress, of it. His successors 
sequestered it in the last century. 
The foundress Imogina was buried 
in this cloister. When it was de- 
stroyed her tombstone was taken 
to the parish cliurch of Wiesbaden. 
In the vicinity of the plieasants' 
warren, you behold on either side 
of the road that leads to Bleiden- 



KASSAU. — ROUTE 21. WIESBADEN TO H03IBTJRG. 



145 



stadt a number of tumuli, some of 
which are overgrown with trees and 
bushes. Some of them were opened 
about twenty years ago, and found to 
contain coals, ashes, urns filled with 
bones and ashes, offering cups, 
lachrymal flasks, lamps ; in some 
of them also gold, silver, and cop- 
per coins, arrows, lances, sacrificial 
knives, &c. All articles that were 
dug up lay eastward. Similar 
tombs are found near Dotzheim. 
The excavations, undertaken here 
and in other spots by the Aulic 
counsellor Dorow, have yielded 
arms, rings, stitching needles, nay, 
even a well-preserved plated spur. 

The Geisberg (goat's mount) is 
a quarter of an hour distant from 
Wiesbaden. From here you have 
a charming prospect in the direc- 
tion of Mayence and of the fine 
villages on the Ehine ; there is an 
inn on the summit. Adamsthal 
(Adam's Valley), a beautiful farm 
in the wood, half-an-hour's distance 
from Wiesbaden. Eefreshments 
of all kinds may be had here. The 
fulling-mill, on the side of the 
cloister of Klarenthal. There are, 
at this place, fine plantations. 

The Platte, a hunting-seat in the 
midst of the forest, two leagues 
from Wiesbaden, where the road 
to Idstein diverges from that to 
Limburg. Here is one of the most 
extensive and fullest views in all 
Germany, as wide as that of the 
Hohe Wurzel. The palace-like 
hunting chateau, built in 1823 and 
1824, forms a regular square, and 
is fitted up very tastefully. 

JBiberich is described on the banks 
of the Ehine, page 121. 

EOUTE 20. 

WIESBADEN TO PRANKEOET. 

Railway Trains to Frankfort, from 
the 16th of May to the 30th of Sep- 
tember, six times a day, at six, half- 
past eight, eleven, half-past two, 
five, eight. Fares, 1st class, 2 fl. 42; 
2nd class, 1 fl, 48; 3rd class, 2fl. 15. 



To Mayence, at the same hours, 
fares, 36, 24, 18 krs. 

Omnibuses convey travellers to 
and from each train; 12 kreutzers 
each person, including luggage. 

The only stoppage between Wies- 
baden and Castel is at the branch 
station of Biberich, where the car- 
riages are detached and drawn to 
Biberich by a one-horse power. 

Castel — A large new hotel has 
just been opened here. The trains 
wait here about ten minutes, be- 
tween which and Frankfort the only 
place worthy notice is 

Hochheim, two leagues from 
Mayence, situated on a height 
whence there is a very fine view of 
the Maine. The wine made there is 
considered one of the best Ehenish 
wines. There are a great number 
of vineyards in the district of Hoch- 
heim, but the best wines are pro- 
duced from the vines which grow 
on a hill behind the old deanery 
house, in a space of eight acres. 
Every acre contains 4,000 vines, 
each of which is considered to be 
worth a ducat. In a good season 
this hni produces twelve large butts 
of wine, each containing seven and 
a half ohm (a German measure). 
One of these butts is frequently sold 
for 1,500 florins or more, even while 
the wine is new. This hill is en- 
tirely exposed to the rays of the 
Sim, and is sheltered from the north 
wind by the town. A rividet which 
flows around it serves to preserve 
moisture in the dry season, and in 
the rainy season prevents the vines 
from being inundated, by receiving 
the superabundant waters through 
numerous wooden pipes placed there 
in order to drain the land. 

jPranA/b/t described at page 156. 

EOUTE 21. 

WIESBADEN TO HOMRURG BY EPP- 
STEIN, KRONBERG, AND OBEE- 
TJRSEL. 

Travellers making an excursion 

H 



146 



ROUTE 21 WIESBADEN TO HOMBURG. PART III. 



from Wiesbaden to the Taunus 
mountains should go by the way of 
Eppstein, which is three leagues 
distant from Wiesbaden. It lies, 
with its ancient castle, between the 
four charming valleys of Fischbach, 
Lorsback, Fockenhausen, and Bren- 
thal. According to popular tradi- 
tion a dreadful giant dwelt on the 
rock in times of yore. He was 
caught in an iron net by a knight 
named Eppo, who hurled him down 
into the abyss, and built himself a 
castle on the rock. The rib of a 
whale, which is suspended over the 
gate, and pretended to be the skele- 
ton of the giant, is intended as a 
memorial of the fact. The nobles 
of Eppstein were very rich and 
highly respected, and five of them 
occupied the archiepiscopal see of 
Mentz. The monumental tomb of 
these ancient dynasts is to be seen 
in the church of Hof heim. Koman 
tombs are found on the southern 
declivity of the Stauffen, and a sin- 
gularly formed rock, with traces of 
mounds of earth, rises on its sum- 
mit. The ancient cloister of Betters 
Reiterese, founded by the Count Ger- 
hard of Nuerings, in the twelfth 
century, stood on the summit of 
the eminence. The farm of Roeders 
lies now on the ruins of it. There 
is a pleasant mill in the vaUey of 
Eppstein, with mineral baths and 
convenient accommodations for 
strangers. The weU. issues in the 
valley. There is a very pleasant 
walk by way of Hof heim to Sulz- 
bach and Soden. These parts are 
much frequented, especially on Sun- 
days, in summer by parties from 
Erankfort. 

Hof heim. lies in a pleasant country 
towards the Maine. The church, 
which is visited by many pilgrims, 
lies on a pleasant woody eminence. 
It contains the tomb of a count of 
StoUberg. The most charming 
prospect of the plains of the Rhine 
and Maine is an ample indemnifica- 
tion for the trouble of climbing up 



to its summit. It is two leagues 
distant from Hoechst, and four from 
Erankfort. 

Sulzback was under the Carlovin- 
gians a curtis regia, and is charm- 
ingly situated. It was made a free 
imperial village, and in that quality 
formed an union with Erankfort as 
early as 1282. 

Soden, two leagues distant from 
Eppstem, and three from Erankfort, 
lies between two hills that branch 
from the Taunus, and form a mild 
and pleasant valley. It derives its 
name from a salt spring, which, 
however, is made no use of at pre- 
sent. There are here seven mineral 
springs, and three inns and bathing 
houses. The water has a, tempera- 
ture of 14" to 18'' Reaum., or 64'' to 
72" Eahr., and contains natrin 
chlorate, kalin chlorate, carbonate of 
lime, carbonate of magnesia, sulphate 
of lime, carbonate of iron oxydule, 
silica, alumhia, broma, and carbonic 
acid gas. It is used both for bathing 
and drinking, in cases of rheuma- 
tism, gout, &c. Soden originally 
was a colony of Sulzbach, and a free 
imperial village, imder the miited 
protection of Mentz and Erankfort. 
At present it belongs to the house 
of Nassau, and the government takes 
great care of the accommodation of 
strangers. The situation is very 
inviting, and weU qualified for ex- 
cursions into the neighbourhood. 
The village lies in a grove of frui^ 
trees, charming hills encircle it, and 
the climate is very mild. A pleasant 
walk takes you to the sununit of a 
hill (zu den drei Lindeii) with 9, 
church. 

Erom Soden it is one league to 
Kronberg vor der Hoehe, which is 
environed with fruit and chestnut 
trees. In the ruined castle is a pic- 
ture, with rhymes underneath, re- 
presenting the battle in which 
(1389) the citizens of Kronberg, 
being companions in battle of the 
people of the Palatinate, decided 
the victory over the Erankforters. 



HOMBURG. — ROUTE 21. IMPROVEMENTS. 



147 



There are here some remains of the 
dwellings of the Templars, the 
Rothe B of (red court) and the Hoelle 
(hell). Hartmuth, the brave friend 
of Francis of SicMngen, is particu- 
larly distinguished among the 
knights of Kronberg. One of his 
ancestors introduced, during the 
crusades, the chestnuts, of which 
there is a fine grove on the left side 
of Kronberg. 

Kronberg has gained some cele- 
brity by the culture of fruit trees. 
An acidulae, abundant in salt, iron, 
and sulphur, new framed in 1790, 
springs in the valley between Kron- 
berg and Mamoldshain. It is re- 
ported to be very efficacious in 
chronic diseases. It is to be la- 
mented that there are no accommo- 
dations for using the water for 
bathing. There is a copious salt 
spring near it. 

Near Kronberg is the castle of 
Falkenstein, one of the most hand- 
some ruins of the Taunus, When 
the sky is clear, you can survey 
from there above seventy villages 
that lie scattered around, and, on 
one side, part of the Khinegau. 

Whoever takes an interest in the 
ancient German fortress of Kb'nig- 
stein, and has not visited it from 
Eppstein, should visit it from here. 
The distance is only a quarter of an 
hour from the fortress, which was 
taken and demolished by the French 
in 1796; you have a beautiful pros- 
pect of the Melibocus and part of 
the Ehine. Konigstein is said to 
owe its origin to the Romans. 

Oberursel lies a league and a half 
from Kronberg, in a fruitful coun- 
try, on a brook that drives mOls 
and copper works. The ancient 
church is worth seeing. There wa.s 
a printing office established here in 
the sixteenth century, the produc- 
tions of which are extremely scarce. 

From Ursel it is one league to 

HOMBURG VOR DE HOHE. 

Inns. Quatre Saisons, Hotel d'An- 



gleterre, Hessischer Hof, Hotel de 
Russie, all possessing good accom- 
modation with moderate charges. 
The Adler, Rose, and Engel, good 
second-rate houses. 

This delightfully situated little 
city has now become a formidable 
rival to its neighbour, Wiesbaden ; 
for although it has for some years 
possessed several valuable springs 
and was much frequented by those 
in search of health, it did not offer 
any temptation to the fashionable 
world as a gay watering place until 
within the last four years. In 1840 
two gentlemen (the Messrs Blanc) 
from Paris obtained from the Land- 
grave of Hesse Homburg, on a lease 
of thirty years, certain portions of 
land well situated for the purposes 
contemplated, the erection of a 
Kursaal and the formation of walks 
in its immediate vicinity. This has 
aU been effected, and although so 
short a period has elapsed since the 
improvements commenced, so judi- 
cious have been the arrangements 
that everything wears a substan- 
tial and mature appearance. The 
Kursaal is a beautiful erection with 
two fronts, one facing the principal 
street, the other overlooking the 
country. The grounds behind and 
in the vicinity of the springs, which 
are of great extent, and terminating 
in the neighbouring woods in every 
direction, are laid out with taste 
and beauty; seats are placed at 
convenient distances under wide- 
spreading branches, and I can 
assure my readers that every want 
Ukely to be felt either by those in 
health or those out of health have 
been anticipated. Immense sums, 
too, have been spent by these enter- 
prising gentlemen in boring where 
there existed the least probability 
that a new source might be foimd, 
and two additions have thereby 
been made; thus Homburg now 
possesses no less than^ye brunnens 
of the most valuable description ; 
so that, whether in search of health 



148 



ROUTE 21 HOMBUEG. KUESAAL. PART III. 



or pleasure, a more delightful spot 
to pass a month or two does not 
exist in Germany. 

In the preceding pages I have 
directed the visitor to the various 
and numerous points of interest, but 
any attempt to describe their beauty 
would be a vain endeavour. 

Great improvements have also 
taken place with regard to accom- 
modation for the numerous visi- 
tors; large and handsome hotels 
and private houses have been 
erected in the most desirable 
parts of the town and environs, 
so that no difficulty will now be 
experienced in meeting with suit- 
able apartments, for large or small 
families. 

At the present moment Homburg 
contains between 400 and 500 
houses, a great proportion of which 
are lodging houses. To those per- 
sons intending to make only a short 
stay, a hotel is the most desirable ; 
indeed few if any, of the larger 
and best apartments can be hired 
for less than a month, but small 
apartments and single bedrooms 
may be hired by the week, varying 
of course in price, according to size 
and situation, from 4 fl. a week to 
200 fl. a month. Many of the best 
houses contain three and four sa- 
loons, and from eighteen to twenty- 
four bedrooms, with kitchens, sta- 
bling, coach house, &c. In most lodg- 
ings the people will only undertake to 
get breakfast and tea, so that those 
who prefer dining in their apart- 
ments must either order dinner 
from a restaurant, or provide ser- 
vants of their own to cook it. 

Climate. — There can be but one 
opinion as to the healthiness of this 
favoured spot, 600 feet above the 
level of the sea ; an inconsiderable 
height when compared with that 
of some of the spas of Switzerland, 
Tyrol, and Bohemia ; but the open- 
ness of the country towards the 
south and east, and the immediate 
neighbourhood of the Feldberg and 



Altkonig, rising to the height of 
2,500 feet, affording all the advan- 
tages of a more elevated position. 

In winter the cold is never se- 
vere, the thermometer appearing 
to sink no lower than in Frankfort. 
As a peculiarity of the valley in 
which the mineral waters rise, al- 
most every evening, shortly after 
sunset, a breeze from the north - 
■west sets in, which is cold even in 
the height of summer. 

In general, during the summer, 
the temperature is regular, and the 
early morning air is highly bracing; 
thunderstorms are rare, and never 
of long duration, and the mists 
which occur in August and Sep- 
tember soon disperse. 

Population, 5,000 souls, one 
third of which are of the Jewish 
persuasion. 

KuTsaal. — This unique building 
is situated about 150 feet to the 
right of the principal street enter- 
ing from Frankfort. In size it is 
not to be compared to similar build- 
ings either at Baden or Wiesbaden, 
but in point of accommodation, 
convenience, and comfort, it is 
equal. The centre is supported 
by arcades, forming the entrance, 
leading directly across the hall into 
the ball-room, eighty feet long, 
forty-four broad, and forty high, 
lighted by five elegant chandeliers ; 
at either end is a gallery supported 
by marble pillars corresponding 
with the walls, formed of a beauti- 
ful imitation of the same material. 
The ceiling is tastefully embel- 
lished ; in the side over the en- 
trance is a private gallery com- 
municating with an apartment 
most splendidly furnished, and in- 
tend€'d for the accommodation of 
the landgrave, or any of the royal 
family. 

From the centre, wings extend 
on each side, containing on the left 
the reading and play rooms ; on 
the right, the dining, coffee, and 
smoking apartments, approached by 



HOMBCRG. — ROUTE 21. BATHS. 



149 



corridors leading from the entrance 
hall ; on the right within the door 
is the hat and cloak room — on the 
left is the bureau of the proprietors, 
Messrs Blanc. 

The situation of this building is 
peculiarly well chosen, in the very 
heart of the fashionable and 
pleasant part of Homburg : from 
the windows you command a view 
of the Taunus mountains, the 
Valley of Springs, and the exten- 
sive plains extending to the Rhine 
at Mayence, and the Maine at 
Frankfort. 

The Reading Room is liberally 
supplied with English, French, 
German, Dutch, and Belgian news- 
papers and periodicals for the gra- 
tuitous use of strangers, both ladies 
and gentlemen ; this is an accom- 
modation to be met with at no 
other spa in Germany, and I doubt 
not but this act of liberality on the 
part of the proprietors is fully 
appreciated by all who enjoy the 
benefit. The English papers ar- 
rive in winter about eight in 
the evening, in the summer a few 
hours earlier. 

Music. — The band plays in the 
neighbourhood of the springs every 
morning from half-past six till eight ; 
in the orchestra near the terrace, be- 
hind the Kursaal, daily, from three 
till six, and in the evening from seven 
till eight. The band is composed of 
first-rate musicians, performing 
selections from the most popular 
overtures, duets, fantasias, and 
solos ; occasionally a similar per- 
formance takes place in the Grand 
Salle, when all the apartments are 
thrown open for the gratuitous use 
of the public. 

The Gaming commences at eleven 
in the morning, and continues, 
without intermission (unless there 
are no players), until eleven 
at night. The smallest stake 
allowed at rouge-et-noir is a thaler, 
at roulette a florin may be staked. 

Baths. — There are several bath- 



houses in Homburg ; the principal 
one is that ^belonging to Mr Thu- 
quet Hof-Apotheker, in Louisen 
strasse, nearly opposite to the 
Kursaal ; and although the cabi- 
nets, eighteen in number, are rather 
on a small scale — they are very 
comfortably fitted up, with every 
attention to comfort and conveni- 
ence ; every description of bath is 
found here, from the simple river 
water to the Russian vapour bath, 
including shower, douche, gas, sul- 
phur, and rain, with ear-pipes, 
leg-cases, and hip-tubs. The bath- 
rooms are warmed by copper steam 
stoves ; the saline water used is 
drawn from the spring known by 
the name of the sauer-brunnen, 
and conveyed in large casks to the 
various bath-houses ; this spring 
was first discovered in 1809 — the 
natural temperature is about 9" 
Reaum. or52iofrahr. It is raised 
to the heat prescribed by the aid 
of steam machinery attached to the 
building. 

Terms for JBaihs. 



Mineral single hath 
Fresh Water 
Douche 
Vapour . 
Russian Vapour . 
Attendance at ditto 
Gas . . . 



fl. kr. 

48 

30 

48 

40 

1 45 
35 
36 

An English Physician (Dr Pry- 
therch), who has published a work 
on the comparative merits of the 
waters of Homburg and Kissingen, 
resides and practices in Homburg. 

The JBrunnens of Homburg are 
five in number ; they are named 
the Ludwig, Salinen or Sadhrunnen, 
Elizabeth, Kaiser, and Steel. 

All these springs are pleasantly 
situated, within a short distance of 
each other, in a valley on the east 
side of Homburg, about five mi- 
nutes' walk from the Kursaal. 

The Ludwig, on the left, under 
the tall poplars, is the oldest, and 
originally possessed a taste similar 
to the celebrated waters of Selters 



150 



ROUTE 21. — HOMBURG. BRUNNENS. PART III. 



and Fachingen, and much used by 
the natives as a refreshing and 
pleasant beverage, but the borings 
which took place in the neighbour- 
hood in 1841 appear to have ren- 
dered a further boring of the Lud- 
wig spring necessary ; by so doing, 
the water became considerably 
changed from its original delicious 
flavour. 

The next in rotation, though not 
in importance, is the Badquelle, 
the water of which is pumped up 
and conveyed in large casks to the 
bath-houses in the town — it is 
never used internally ; is of a 
yellowish colour with a bitter salt 
taste. Immediately in front of the 
entrance to the restaurant is the 

Kaiser Brunnen, unadorned by 
flowers or plants ; it is a valuable 
spring. On the right, in the midst 
of a well arranged parterre, is the 

Steel Brunnen — The discovery 
of this spring does away with the 
necessity of a patient taking the 
waters of Pyrmont, or any other 
chalybeate, after those of Hom- 
burg. This source was found, in 
1842, by boring with the artesian 
screw, at a depth of 210 feet : it is 
perfectly limpid in colour ; and 
the supply of water is very abun- 
dant. It is totally dissimilar to 
the other springs in taste, charac- 
ter, and appearance. The result 
of a very minute analysis, by one 
of the most able and reputed 
chemists in Europe, Professor 
Liebig, of Giesen, is highly favour- 
able. 

Elizabeth Brunnen is situated at 
the end of the long avenue of 
poplars, extending near a quarter 
of a mile in length. This spring 
is the most frequented by invalids ; 
and the repeated application for 
beakers keep the maids in constant 
activity, to be compared only to 
the nimlDleness of the water bibbers. 
People who give so much trouble 
should not neglect rewarding these 
civil and industrious girls. The 



head gardener bestows considerable 
pains on this spot, in memory, no 
doubt, of the departed princess. He 
occupies the adjoining building. 

The Elizabeth Brunnen is strong- 
ly impregnated with carbonic acid 
gas ; containing 48^ cubic inches 
of this fluid in the pint of 16 oz. 
This taste, of course, tends in a 
great measure to cover the bitterish 
salt flavour which would otherwise 
prevail. 

The Apres gout is decidedly 
ferruginous when drank on the 
spot, therefore the sparkling water of 
the Curbrunnen is by no means dis- 
agreeable, and the temperature be- 
ing only 9^° Keaum., or SS*^ Eahr.j^ 
renders it on a hot summer's morn- 
ing a refreshing, and even luxurious 
draught ; and after one becomes 
habituated to its use for some 
days, it is relished exceedingly. 
This is, no doubt, very much caused 
by the sensations which succeed 
the drinking of the water, namely, 
a feeling of warmth in the stomach, 
accompanied by a pleasing degree 
of exhilaration. 

Thousands of bottles of this water 
are annually exported to England 
and all parts of Europe. 

The agent in London is Mr Best, 
22 Henrietta street, Cavendish 
square, who is also an extensive 
importer of waters from the prin- 
cipal mineral springs in Europe. 

Churches and Chapels. — There 
are two churches in Homburg, 
besides the Landgrave's chapel in 
the chateau ; the old church in 
Dorotheen Strasse is Catholic, and 
that in the old Stadt, Lutheran ; in 
neither of the old churches is 
there any object worthy of notice j 
but the chapel of the Landgrave is 
remarkable for the old paintings 
on the panels, and the glazed gal- 
lery for the accommodation of the 
royal family. 

English divine ivorship, according 
to the rights and ceremonies of the 
Established Church of England, 



HOMBUKG. — EOUTE 21. SPOUTING. 



151 



is performed every Sunday morn- 
iug at half-past eleven o'clock, and 
in the afternoon at half-past three ; 
the sacrament of the Lord's Supper 
is administered on the first Sunday 
in every month. The present 
officiating clergyman is the Eev. 
James Butler. The church is sup- 
ported by voluntary subscriptions; 
for the collection of which a book 
is sent round to the visitors. 

The Jews' Synagogue is a plain 
unostentatious buUdlng in Juden 
Strasse. 

The Cemeteries. — There are two 
receptacles for the dead outside the 
lower gate on the road to Dornholz- 
hausen. The small one on the left 
of the road is the burial place for 
members of the reformed religion; 
in the larger, on the right, the re- 
mains of Catholics and Lutherans 
are deposited ; it contains a few 
monuments of the most simple 
kind; the most recent is a marble 
slab, enclosed with an iron railing, 
to the memory of General Brossine, 
a Russian officer of distinction, who 
died suddenly at Homburg, Nov. 3, 
1843. 

Police office is situate in Doro- 
theen Strasse; open daily from eight 
in the morning till six in the even- 
ing. Strangers who intend making 
any stay in Homburg should de- 
posit their passports here, when a 
*' Legitimations-Karte " permit of 
residence will be given free of 
expense. 

Post office. — Letters for England 
leave Homburg every day in sum- 
mer at three o'clock; in winter, at 
seven in the evening. 

Letters from England, via Paris, 
arrive every day except Thursday ; 
in summer at three in the after- 
noon, and in winter at half-past 
six. 

Letters from England, via Rot- 
terdam and Ostend, arrive at Hom- 
burg four times a week, at ten in 
the morning. 

Payment of postage to England 



is optional; the cost of a letter the 
entire way to London is 40 kr.; 
letters are delivered on the fifth 
day, via Paris. 

Letters to Erankfort only, are 
despatched several times a day ; 
postage, 2 kr. The post office is 
open in summer from six in the 
morning till eight in the evening; 
in winter, from eight till twelve, 
and from two till seven. 

Diligences start from the post 
office about ten times a day during 
the summer months, and seven 
times in the winter; the time occu- 
pied is one hour and a half ; fare 
in coupe, interior, or outside, is 
30 kr. ; baggage is charged for 
very moderately,' at the rate of 
about 30 kr. for one hundred 
weight. 

Omnibuses leave Mr Eischer's, 
No. 64 Louisen Strasse, for Erank- 
fort, calling at the different hotels, 
several times a day; fare, 24 kr. ' 

Sporting. — Amongst the plea- 
sures of Homburg that of shooting 
must not be omitted ; it is due to 
Messrs Blanc to say, ' that they 
endeavour by every means in their 
power to render this delightful 
spot as attractive as possible, not 
only to the invalid who may here 
find relief and restoration to health 
from the extraordinary curative 
properties of the Homburg waters, 
but the energetic sportsman, the 
patient angler, and the most deter- 
mined pedestrian may here all 
find employment and gratifying 
recreation. The extensive districts, 
abundantly stocked with game of 
every description, are rented for a 
series of years by the above-named 
gentlemen, and during the shooting 
season once or twice a week is 
devoted to the sport ; a person be- 
longing to the establishment takes 
down the names of all those in- 
cUned to join the party, who ren- 
dezvous at nine o'clock on the 
morning appointed, good double- 
barreled guns are supphed by the 



152 



ROUTE 21. — HOMBURG. ENVIRONS. PART III. 



keepers, and the party thus col- 
lected proceed towards the woods; 
on reaching which a portion is 
selected, the shooters placed at dis- 
tances of about thirty or forty 
paces according to the extent to 
be covered, and the number of per- 
sons ; and the beaters drive the 
game towards the sportsman. 

Fishing. — The right of angling in 
the streams in the neighbourhood 
of Homburg is also vested in the 
Messrs Blanc, who grant to visi- 
tors the privilege of fishing with 
rod and line within their district, 
and a morning may be agreeably 
passed, and your labour rewarded 
occasionally, with a perch or trout 
weighing less than a pound. 

Billiard Rooms are situated oppo- 
site the Kursaal ; there are two 
tables ; the accommodations are 
good, and the conveniency of the 
situation will no doubt induce many 
to resort to this manly and rational 
game. 

Charge by the hour, day or 
night, 24 kr. 

A coffee and refreshment room 
is also on the premises. 

Shooting Club. — The landgrave 
contributes 100 florins annually 
towards the support of the society. 
In the month of October, every 
year, a supper is given to the 
members. 

Environs. — To attempt a full de- 
scription of the various delightful 
and romantic excursions which 
may be made in the neighbour- 
hood of Homburg is next to im- 
possible ; so numerous are they that 
not a single outlet, in any direction, 
but will lead to a secluded walk in 
the immediate vicinity, or to the 
most distant excursions, for the 
full enjoyment of the picturesque 
scenery, or the extensive and beau- 
tiful views with which the coimtry 
abounds. The well-kept walks 
behind the Kursaal, in the neigh- 
bourhood of the springs, and the 
woods adjoining the valley, will 



afford many hours' recreation. Ta 
the invalid these resources are in- 
valuable, as calculated from the 
extreme purity of the mountain 
air to promote convalescence, and 
ultimately to restore strength and 
vigour; indeed, it is an undisputed 
fact, admitted by all medical men 
who have written on Homburg, that 
in the whole country of the Tau- 
nus, and adjoining districts, there 
is no place which can equal it, 
either in point of climate or 
beauty. 

The Palace Gardens are very ex- 
tensive, laid out something in the 
English style, introduced by the 
late Landgravine Princess Eliza- 
beth ; indeed every spot of garden 
ground belonging to the royal 
family of Homburg reminds one 
of the exquisite ta;ste, and the ex- 
pense and care, which must have 
been bestowed in rearing the 
choicest plants, shrubs, and flowers, 
and although much neglected, the 
various specimens may still be seen. 
The lower grounds, immediately 
adjoining the palace, contain two 
ponds well stocked with fish; the 
large piece of water on the left is 
drained once in three years, when 
the best fish are selected and de- 
posited in the smaller lake for the 
use of the landgrave ; the small 
fish are allowed to resneme their 
amusements for the benefit of the 
next haul. On turning round the 
large lake to the left, and then fol- 
lowing the path to the right, will 
lead to the Eantasie, a combination 
of serpentine shady walks with 
seats ; this is another lovely re- 
treat which communicates with the 
fruit garden, at the further extre- 
mity of which is a retired shady 
avenue, which might be justly 
named lovers' lane. Returning to 
the gate leading to the chateau 
gardens we enter the 

Alley of Poplars. — Extending 
about one mile and a half to the 
Maison de Chasse, this alley was 



ttOMBURG. — ROUTE 21. ENVIRONS. 



153 



first planted in 1769 by order of the 
Landgrave Frederick V; there are 
upwards of 1,000 trees, includ- 
ing the young ones lately planted. 

The gate on the right leads to 
' Princess Elizabeth's Garden. — This 
was the favourite hauntof her royal 
highness, who spent much of her 
time in the cultivation of rare 
plants, planning horticultural im- 
provements, which even at this day 
are sufficiently visible to show the 
exquisite taste of the princess : the 
grounds, which may be entered by 
three different gates, occupy about 
four acres, laid out in arbours, 
summer houses, besides hot-houses, 
a vinery, and a great variety of 
fruit trees. A little beyond this on 
the left is the garden of 

Prince Gustave, also prettily laid 
out, and contains a neat building, 
consisting of a large saloon, a bed 
room, and a dressing room; this 
beautiful retreat is frequently visited 
by the prince in the summer, is at 
all times open to strangers ; nearly 
opposite stands the small 

Fir Wood, which offers a cool 
retreat on a summer's day; shady 
walks will take you entirely round: 
the opposite avenue leads to the 

Cottage and Farm of the late Land- 
gravine Elizabeth, and although 
sadly going to decay, it still retains 
an outline of a deUghtful retreat; 
the grounds are extensive, and 
abundantly stocked with rose trees 
and other choice and sweet flowers. 
On entering, in front, on a small 
island in the centre of a lake, stands 
a trellis-work temple ; by the side 
is a large weeping willow, bewail- 
ing, as it would seem, the irretriev- 
able loss of the fostering hand of 
her who planned and reared the 
exquisite beauties which now lie 
drooping and neglected. On the 
left of the lake is (or rather what 
was) the farm house; a little beyond 
is the rustic cottage, consisting of 
five rooms, three only of which 
are shown to strangers; the door 



in the rear opens into the small 
drawing room, neatly furnished, 
and where everything remains in 
the same state as when last occu- 
pied by her royal highness; the 
chairs and tables are in the rus- 
tic style ; on the walls are sus- 
pended engravings of George III, 
George IV, William IV, Queen 
Adelaide ; the Dukes of York, 
Kent, Cumberland, Cambridge, and 
Sussex ; the Princesses Sophia 
and Amelia, besides several por- 
traits of members of the landgrave's 
family ; a marble bust of the Land- 
grave Frederick Joseph is placed 
on a pedestal in front of the en- 
trance ; beyond this is a small bou- 
doir, leading into the third room, 
in which is arranged near 200 pieces 
of beautiful old china in the various 
useful forms of plate, dishes, cups, 
saucers, jugs, vases, &c. 

Some of the china is said to have 
belonged to Queen Charlotte: the 
lower shelf around this room is 
composed of black marble, sup- 
ported by polished hoofs of the 
buffalo. The exquisite taste of the 
princess as a florist and horticul- 
turist may be observed in every 
direction. The grounds contain 
also several tasteful and beautiful 
arbours and summer-houses, in 
which her royal highness was wont 
to spend a considerable portion of 
her time, when the season of the 
year permitted. Eeturning into 
the alley a little way on the left 
is the 

Alley Gast House, where refresh- 
ments may be had ; here is a large 
ball-room in which the rustic girls 
and their smoking swains assemble 
for dancing on Sunday evenings; 
on Mondays the members of the 
Rifle Club assemble here and fire 
at the target for prizes. 

Beyond this, on the right, the road 
leads to Dornholzhausen. Continu- 
ing up the alley on the right, at the 
top is the 

Maison de Chasse of the land- 
H 2 



154 



ROUTE 21. — IIOMBUKG. EiSrV'iRO^Ss t»A'KT iHi 



grave ; it is pleasantly situated iri 
what is called the great wood. 
There are several rooms half fur- 
nished, ornamented with family 
portraits of former landgraves ; in 
the saloon there is a scarlet table 
cover embroidered with the arms 
of England and Homburg by 
the late Landgravine Elizabeth. 
The building is in the Gothic style, 
the grand apartment , however, is 
still in an unfinished state ; those that 
are tenantable are occasionally used 
by the present landgrave during 
the summer season for fetes cham- 
petres; from the roof is an exten- 
sive view of the adjoining country. 
Or taking the road from the Alley 
to Dornholzhausen, about a quarter 
of a mile beyond, by the side of the 
mill on the left hand of the road, 
is the 

Trout Pond. — Few persons could 
desire a more lovely spot than this 
to pass away an agreeable hour; a 
large summer-house is placed as it 
were in the centre of the lake The 
walks round are completely shaded 
by large trees; a small rustic bridge 
on the left will lead under some 
lofty firs and old oaks; an open 
space on the right is used by the 
military to practise their firing. 
Proceeding forwards, passing the 
Maison de Chasse already described, 
a small avenue on the left wiU lead 
past the 

Pillar to commemorate the com- 
pletion of a reign of fifty years 
by the good Landgrave Frederick 
Ludwig. Eecrossing the Alley, pass 
a summer-house, and winding to- 
wards the right the first of 

Fotir Fish Ponds, each higher 
than its fellow, presents itself; a neat 
gravel walk with four flights of 
steps leads to the uppermost pond 
bordering the wood; they are well 
stocked with fish, and by means of 
sluices the water at any time can 
be drawn ofi": beyond the farthest 
is a bridge, pass over it and round 
the cottage, then follow a path 



towards the left skirting the wood, 
proceed down an avenue towards a 
house fi. e. a mill), before reaching 
it turn up a short avenue to the 

Seven Electors. — Being seven very 
singular large and ancient oaks, 
one of which cannot be less than 
700 years old; they were evidently 
planted here for some purpose on 
some particular occasion, because a 
small temple is placed near them, 
and there are evident symptoms of 
some rites and ceremonies having 
taken place in times gone by under 
the wide-spread foliage. Through 
the wood and recross the alley to 
the 

Botanical Garden and Nursery. 
Enter by a wooden gate. This is 
another of those lovely places 
within a pleasant walk, yet how 
few of the thousands who annually 
visit Homburg ever even heard of 
this delightful spot ; the unrestricted 
admission to all the gardens and 
walks belonging to the royal fami- 
ly is a privilege not to be lightly 
valued. At all hours and at all 
seasons this beautiful retreat, as 
well as all the others, is open to the 
public ; no greedy door-keeper to 
fee, no petty authority to follow 
your wanderings lest you might 
be tempted to put your nose to a 
fl(Dwer — all is open confidence on 
the part of the government. I am 
sure I need not suggest to visitors 
a proper conservative feeling in 
return. These grounds contain 
trees and plants of the most choice 
and rare description, with the name 
attached to each. The gravel 
walks are kept in excellent order, 
rustic seats abound in every direc- 
tion, but more particularly on the 
banks of a lovely lake. The en- 
closure to the left, on entering this 
garden, is the 

Deer Park, stocked with game 
belonging to his Koyal Highness 
the Landgrave. Taking the right 
on leaving, will lead up to the 
Elizabeth stone. To go to the 



fiOMBCilG.— SlOUTE 21. ENVIRONS. 



155 



liUther oak, instead of proceeding 
up the road, go round the enclosure 
of the deer park, a small path at 
the end of the cross road will lead 
to 

Luther fEicheJ Oak — a small 
tree planted in 1817 in commemo- 
ration of the Eeformation Here 
are placed rustic seats and tables 
beneath arbours for the accommo- 
dation of pic-nic parties. This spot 
commands an extensive and beau- 
tiful view. To reach the 

Elizabeth f Stein J Stone the road 
lies to it in a straight line from the 
top of the alley of poplars ; it is so 
named in consequence of the late 
landgravine occasionally sitting 
here while the new road across 
the mountain to the Feldberg was 
making. 

A quarter of a mile further up 
the road, beneath an old oak, stands 
the 

Urn to the memory of L. A. F., 
the valiant Prince of Hesse, who 
was killed at the battle of Liitzen, 
2nd May, 1813. 

If not too tired, from this place 
half way between the urn and the 
Elizabeth stone, on the right re- 
turning from the former place, a 
road will lead to the Gold Mine 
about one mile and a half distant 
from this spot. The road to it may 
be easily found by adhering to the 
following directions. A visit to 
this place should by no means be 
neglected, as the charming situation 
of these projecting rocks afford the 
most beautiful views in the country. 
It is for this alone that persons 
visit it, as the said gold mine itself 
is but a small excavation under the 
rocks, extending about twelve hun- 
dred feet, not worth the trouble of 
crossing the road to see. On enter- 
ing from the main road, turn to- 
wards the right, pass a weeping 
oak on the left, and a little further 
on the hill, opposite a vista open- 
ing towards Homburg, is a 



Pyramid of plain white stone, 
about fifteen feet high, no inscrip- 
tion or mark to indicate how long 
it has stood there, or for what 
purpose it was erected. Proceed 
round to the right, cross the high 
road up a gentle hill, on the top 
two roads present themselves, take 
that on the left; about five hundred 
yards on the left, under the trees, a 
narrow footpath leads past a stone 
on which is engraved "Adelheid 
Weg;" passing some rocks on the 
left, follow the footpath past ano- 
ther stone, similar to the former, 
short round to the left brings you 
suddenly upon the rocks of the 
celebrated 

Gold Grube (mine). Here is a 
rustic seat, plenty of dry wood, and 
good space to " put on the pot ;" to 
get a perfect view descend to the 
point of rocks. I will only attempt 
a brief description of the beautiful 
prospect which unfolds itself Im- 
mediately in front, about four mile^ 
distant, with its well-known white 
tower, stands Homburg, with a 
green lane from beneath your feet 
cut through the variegated woods, 
intercepted by the village of Ober- 
Stettin. On the right is the village 
of Oberursel, in the midst of a fruit- 
ful country ; the church is an 
ancient building, and is remarkable 
for its high steeple ; on the left is 
the Limberg. 

The houses between Stettin and 
where you are standing belong 
to the town of Frankfort, as 
well as the adjoining woods. 
They are occupied by foresters 
placed there for the protection 
of the game.. In the extreme 
distance may be seen the Khine, 
Frankfort, the Main, andthe Berg- 
strasse. 

To return, you may either retrace 
your steps or descend a very steep 
path to the foot of the rocks. By 
turning towards the hill on the left 
at the bottom of this descent, you 



156 



ROUTE 21. — HOMBURG. ENVIRONS. PART 111. 



will find the Grube immediately 
beneath the rocks, a peep into a 
dirty hole will be your only reward, 
unless indeed you are fortunate 
enough to discover the gold that no 
one else could find- The path home,. 
I presume, is sufficiently described 
to enable our miners to get back in 
time for dinner. 

Friedrichsdorfi about forty mi- 
nutes' walk from Homburg, 
through a pleasant wood. The 
village is composed of one long 
street. The inhabitants speak the 
French language, being chiefly de- 
scendants from the Erench refugees 
who quitted their native land after 
the revocation of the edict of 
Nantes. They were received and 
allowed to settle themselves here, 
by Frederic II, Prince of Hesse 
Homburg. Manufactures of coarse 
cloth and woollens were established, 
which are carried on at the present 
day. There are two public estab- 
lishments, one for young gentle- 
men, the other for young ladies, 
where they are taught the rudi- 
ments of education ; but the chief 
object in sending young people 
here is to enable them to acquire 
a perfect knowledge of the French 
language. 

Dornholzhausen is a village con- 
sisting of about five hundred inha- 
bitants, laying to the right of the 
poplar alley, and may be reached 
by taking the first road on the 
right after passing the alley gast- 
house. This village has nothing 
to attract the notice of strangers, 
except a pleasant walk, and on 
Sundays a ball in the grand salle ; 
or if the weather be warm, under 
cover in the garden ; nine pins, 
knock-'em-downs, and a small bil- 
liard table with large pockets, will 
enable those fond of such amuse- 
ments to pass the afternoon agree- 
ably. Refreshments, in the shape 
of cutlets, &c., may be had at 
moderate charges. 



Hire of an Omnibus or Carriage. 

3 horses. 2horseSc 

To Luther (Eiche) Oak and fl. fl. 

Elizabeth (Stein) Stone . 5 3 

Gold Grube ... 6 4 

Konigstein and Soden . 9 6 

Kronthal ... 7 5 

Oberursel ... 5 3 

FRANKFORT. 

Hotels. Russie, first-rate estab- 
lishment ; very expensive. An- 
gleterre, a good family hotel ; 
charges : breakfast, 42 kr., eggs 
and meat, extra ; table d'hote at 
one o'clock, 1 fl. 18 kr., including 
wine ; at four, 1 fl. 45 kr., without 
wine. Roman Empe/or, Wieden- 
husch, White Swan, Paris, and West- 
end Hall, near the railway station. 

Frankfort is a free town, and the 
seat of the German diet. It occu- 
pies, inclusive of Sachsenhausen, 
on the left bank of the Main, a 
spot of 625 acres, and has above 
3,400 houses, besides the outskirts; 
217 streets and lanes ; seven large 
squares, fourteen smaller ones ; 115 
fountains ; seven Roman Catholic 
churches, six Evangelical, three 
Lutheran churches, for divine ser- 
vice ; one synagogue ; and one 
temple, in which diAune service is 
performed in the French language ; 
above thirty public buildings ; more ' 
than twenty inns, exclusive of the 
inferior public houses; with a po- 
pulation of more than 56 000. 

Most of the buildings in the new 
town ( occupied principally by rich 
merchants and bankers) are lite- 
rally palaces. The street called the 
Zeil, and the New Street of May- 
ence, and the schoenen Aussicht, 
extending along the quay, are ex ■ 
ceedingly handsome. 

The old town is composed of 
narrow streets and remarkably 
queer looking wooden houses, many 
of them (particularly those near 
the "Dora," or Cathedral, and 
" Roemerberg") are of great anti- 
quity. After the revocation of the 
edict of Nantes, many industrious 



FREE TOWN. — ROUTE 21. PEANKFORT. 



155 



families of France and the Nether- 
lands settled at Fankfort. In 1662 
the Jews' street was built. Frank- 
fort was the mart of the German 
booksellers for many years, until 
the oppression practised by the 
Imperial Committee of Censure 
drove the booksellers to Leipsic. 
After the tliirty years' war, the 
French war on the Rhine, which 
broke out near the close of the 
seventeenth century, greatly dis- 
tressed the town, and caused consi- 
derable expenses. Frankfort in 
1689, expecting to experience a like 
fate with most Rhenish towns, 
took in a Hessian and Hanoverian 
garrison for its protection. The 
same measure was taken at a later 
period, in 1707, when the French 
marshal, Villars, demanded a con- 
tribution of a million of livres. In 
the beginning of the seventeenth 
century the solemn elections and 
coronations of the German empe- 
rors at Frankfort were resumed, 
until the election of Frances II, the 
late Emperor of Austria, in 1792. 

Frankfort arose from a state of 
oppression and mortification after 
twenty years, with renewed energy 
and in greater glory. It is richer, 
more flourishing, and more beauti- 
ful than ever. The happy state it 
enjoys is owing to the patriotic 
spirit of its citizens, and the sensi- 
ble management of the public 
affairs. By the act of the German 
Union, Frankfort was made the 
seat of the Diet, whose sessions 
were opened November 5, 1816. 
Frankfort has a garrison of 700 men, 
besides about 2,000 NationalGuards. 

The Austrians and Prussians 
have been withdrawn since 1842. 

Frankfort is an excellent stop- 
ping place, pn route to Switzerland 
or Italy. The, superior accommo- 
dation to be found in the hotels ; 
the numerous and well-stocked 
shops,* where every description of 

* See advertisements at the end. 



wearing apparel may be purchased 
and made up in a style equal to 
London or F'aris, and at a mode- 
rate price ; the facilities to proceed 
in every direction by public con- 
veyances. Lohnkutschen, railroad, 
and steam-boats, corresponding 
with the Rhine and Danube. 
Frankfort being also the residence 
of the ambassadors from the va- 
rious courts of Europe, passports 
may readily receive the vise of the 
representative of any country, the 
traveller may have neglected in 
London. Possessing these advan- 
tages, it is not surprising that this 
delightful city has not only become 
the residence of numerous English 
families, but thousands visit it for 
long or short periods during the 
summer. 

The most interesting sights in 
Frankfort may he visited in the follow- 
ing order. Starting from your hotel 
into the Rossmarket, the corner 
building on the right is the 

Casino, a large, elegant, and con- 
venient establishment. The first 
floor, consisting of an immense suite 
of apartments, elegantly furnished, 
are devoted to reading, conversa- 
tion, cards, and billiards. There 
are upwards of a hundred papers 
for the use of the subscribers, in- 
cluding the Times. Globe, Standard. 
and Galignanis Messenger, besides 
several English periodicals ; a 
member has the privilege of giving 
a card of admission, valuable for 
one month ; at the expiration it 
cannot be renewed, but any person 
intending to remain in Frankfort 
may, on being properly proposed 
and seconded, become a member. 

The ground floor is devoted to 
refreshments and smoking ; alto- 
gether the Casino in Frankfort is 
equal to any in Germany. The op- 
posite corner on the left is the 
banking house of Messrs Gogel, 
Koch, and Co. ; the latter gentleman 
is also the British consul, and is 
always happy to show to English 



158 



ROUTE 21. — FRANKFOKT. MORNING. — PART III. 



travellers or residents the most po- 
lite attention. Passing the foun- 
tain on which is Hercules and An- 
taeus, into the grossen Gallen Gasse, 
round to the right is the 

Stiidel Museum, lately placed in a 
new and suitable building. It is 
an artistical institute for the im- 
provement of young painters and 
designers, engravers and architects. 
The banker, Staedel, who died Dec. 
2, 1816, left his numerous pictures 
and collections of prints, together 
with his houses, and a capital of 
more than 1 200,000 florins, for the 
foundation of this institute, the 
scope of which is not only the im- 
provement of the arts in general, 
but also the improvement of young 
artists, by proportionate assistance. 
The fine artistical collection of Dr 
Grambs, who died in 1817, which 
was purchased for the institute, 
added considerably to its value. 
The principal pictures in Staedel's 
collection belong to the Flemish 
school. The trustees have, how- 
ever, augmented the collection by 
the addition of some good pictures 
of the Italian school, and some mo- 
dern paintings ; amongst the latter 
is a beautiful picture representing 
Huss pleading before the Council of 
Constance, by Lessing, of Dussel- 
dorf ; it cost 10,500 florins (about 
900/. ). A fresco painting, repre- 
senting 'St Boniface preaching 
Christianity.' occupies the entire 
side of one of the eight rooms form- 
ing the gallery. This museum is 
open to the public every day ex- 
cept Saturday, from ten till one. 

On leaving the museum take the 
left to the Bockenheim gate, and 
following the road a short distance 
you arrive at the beautiful 

Garden of Baron von Rothschild, 
situated onthe right of the Bocken- 
heim road ; admission is readily 
granted to respectable strangers, 
but to see the house, permission 
must be obtained at the residence 
in Frankfort; return by the prome- 



nade to the second or Eschenheim 
gate, distinguished, by the high 
tower ; on the left is the 

Senkenberg Museum, or cabinet of 
natural history, open on Fridays 
from eleven till one, on Wednesdays 
from two till four, but a small fee 
will ensure admittance at aU rea- 
sonable hours on other days. This 
museum possesses a large collection 
of natural curiosities, minerals, an- 
tediluvian remains, mammalia, 
birds, fish, amphibious animals, 
&c., &c. 

In the entrance hall are two large 
giraffes; the ground- floor apart- 
ments contain stuffed animals, 
amongst them is the hippopotamus 
or river horse ; on the first floor are 
a numerous collection of skeletons 
of fish, birds, animals, and some 
human skulls, the second floor 
stuffed birds, third floor preserved 
reptiles and fishes, fourth floor 
a gallery containing Egpytian 
mummies, Indian curiosities, great 
coats made of sausage skins, and 
eggs, &c Mr Rueppel, the cele- 
brated traveller (a native of Frank- 
fort), has particularly contributed 
to enrich this museum with many 
rare objects. 

Proceeding down the street lead- 
ing to the Zeil, the large red building 
on the left is the 

Palace of Thurn and Taxis, be- 
longing to the prince of that name, 
formerly the residence of Prince 
Primas, and now the seat of the 
German Diet, and dwelling of the 
Austrian ambassador, who presides 
at the 

Bundestag. — The apartments are 
not shown. On the right under 
the corridor is the passport office, 
open from ten till twelve, and from 
three till five ; a few doors nearer 
the gate is the residence of the 
Bavarian minister. Passport office 
open from ten till eleven. 

Presuming my readers have 
adopted the German style of dining 



TREE TOWN. — ROUTE 21. FRANKFORT. MORNING. 



159 



early, by the time you reach this 
spot it will be near the table-d'hote 
hour, one o'clock. 

Afternoon Excursion. Passing 
down the Zeil on the left is the Post 
office, a large new establishment, 
from whence proceed the public 
diligences to all parts of Germany. 
The office to take places is on the 
right-hand side in the court yard; 
the letter department is in front, 
open from eight in the morning till 
eight in the evening; letters for 
England, via Paris, are despatched 
every morning at six o'clock, and 
arrive in the afternoon ; postage (the 
payment of which is optional) to 
London is 38 kreutzers the cost of 
a newspaper from London is five 
kreutzers. 

In proceeding down this street 
one cannot help admiring the mag- 
nificent houses, or rather palaces, 
which extend the entire length, in 
which may be found a variety of 
well stocked magazines, comprising 
all that art or nature may require, 
to improve the mind or adorn the 
body. The fourth turning to the 
left and the first on the right will 
lead to the Friedberg Gate, but be- 
fore passing through the gateway 
a short distance on the right in the 
garden is 

Mr Sethmann's Museum, in which 
is the celebrated statue of Ariadne, 
by Dannecker, an artist of Wurtz - 
burg ; in the same building are 
various casts taken from the most 
celebrated statues in the galleries 
at Paris. It is open to the public 
from eleven till one. 

The large building opposite the 
entrance to the garden is the Orphan 
house. 

Outside is the Monument erected 
by the King of Prussia to the me- 
mory of the Hessians killed in the 
siege of Frankfort in 1792. The 
monument is near the princely re- 
sidence of Mr Bethmann. 

Turning to the left hand, about a 
mile on the Homburg road, is the 



New Cemetery (Friedhof), in 
which are numerous monuments. 
The most elegant is that destined to 
receive the departed members of 
the Bethmann family ; it is deco 
rated by Thorwaldsen with various 
designs in bas-reliefs. 

Returning towards Frankfort : 
the large Italian Villa on the left 
belongs to Baron Rothschild; it ad- 
joins the village of Bornheim ; the 
high watch towers now seen mark 
the boundary of Frankfort. 

Returning by the beautiful walks 
outside the town towards the Main 
to the 

Town Library, close to the Ober- 
Main-Thor (gate), a modern build- 
ing, of small dimensions ; in the 
entrance hall is a marble statue of 
the poet Gothe, who was born in 
Frankfort ; a room on the left of 
the entrance contains a collection 
of miniature paintings, and a receipt 
for 200,000 florins subscribed by the 
inhabitants of Frankfort towards 
the sufierers by the fire in Ham- 
burg. This receipt is a sheet of 
beautifully illuminated vellum, in 
an oak case, made out of some of 
the damaged timbers of the town- 
hall, ornamented with bas-reliefs 
cast from the metal of the destroyed 
church bells ; the seal of the town 
in wax is attached. A miniature 
printing press stands on a piece of 
wood, part of the original press of 
Guttemberg. In the library is a 
copy of the first printed Bible, a 
pair of Luther shoes, and a portrait 
of Guttemberg. 

Open every Tuesday and Thurs- 
day from eleven tiU twelve, on 
Wednesdays and Fridays from two 
tiU four. 

The large building behind the 
library is the 

Town Hospital Proceeding along 
the quay, called Schone Aussicht, 
the opposite bank of the river pre- 
sents many pleasing views. The 
large building adjoining the bridge 
was originally the 



160 



ROUTE 21. — FRANKFORT. AFTERNOON. PART HI. 



Palace of the Teutonic Knights, 
subsequently a barrack during the 
occupation of the Austrians and 
Prussians (withdrawn in 1842). 
Part is now in ruins, and part oc- 
cupied as warehouses. The church 
adjoining contains nothing worthy 
of notice. On the bridge is a statue 
of Charlemagne. Turning up the 
street opposite the bridge, the 
second turning on the left leads to 
the 

Cathedral, or Sartholomauisstift- 
skirche, where for many years the 
emperors were crowned. Lewis 
the German and a pious Franconian 
matron founded the abbey, which, 
at an early period, was united with 
the church. It received, however, 
its present shape first about the 
middle of the fourteenth century. 
It is built in the form of a cross, 
and has only one unfinished steeple, 
which is obtuse at the top, at which 
they were working from 1415 till 
1509, and which maybe considered 
as the last work of ancient German 
architecture ; an additional height 
is to be added. In the cathedral 
are the tombs of the unfortunate 
Emperor Giinther of Schwarz- 
bourg and of Rudolph of Sachsen- 
hausen, and a Holy Pamily by 
Rubens, The Pfarrihurm or tower 
should be ascended by those who 
do not mind going up 318 steps. 
The 'entrance is in the corner near 
the market, on reaching the top a 
small wicket prevents you from 
taking the fireman and his family 
by storm, a slight agitation of a 
very small bell will procure admis- 
sion to the platform commanding 
a most extensive and beautiful 
prospect, marks point towards the 
numerous villages within view ; a 
small plate on the side of the tower 
records the date of the foundation, 
m twelve o'clock, the 6th of July, 1415. 
Within the tower is a trap door 
looking down upon the four great 
bells, besides fire lanterns, flags, 
and a speaking trumpet which 



would astonish the captain of a 
seventy-four. The old lady expects 
a trifle from those who favour her 
by a visit. 

Passing through the meat-market 
to the Roemerberg, in which is the 
celebrated 

Roemer, formerly the place where 
the Emperors of Germany were 
elected. The Kaisersaal is orna# 
mented with new portraits of the 
Emperors, from Conrad I to 
Francis II, simultaneously painted 
by the first artists. A fee of 10 
florins will procure a sight of the 
original Golden Bull, by which 
Charles IV regulated the mode of 
election for the Emperors of Ger- 
many ; this celebrated document is 
dated 1356. Opposite is the 

CJiurch of St Nicolas, with a new 
steeple, and now undergoing a 
thorough restoration. Leaving the 
Roemer by the back entrance will 
lead to the 

New Exchange, a small, badly- 
situated building. The interior 
contains no ornaments worthy no- 
tice, but a peep in upon the bulls 
and bears of Frankfort, between 
twelve and one in the day, will 
afford an idea how easy it is for 
men of reputed wealth to buy 
stock by thousands with a wink or 
a nod. The exterior near the 
church is ornamented with seven 
figures, emblematic of home and 
foreign trade. 

St Pauls, or the evangelical me- 
tropolitan church, was finished in 
1832, is a handsome oval, with 
which, however, the heavy roof 
forms a singular contrast. The 
small steeple overtops the stately 
cupola very little ; passing through 
the exchange, or back through the 
Roemer, take the right to the 
quay, on the left is the 

Saalhof only remarkable for oc- 
cupying the site of an ancient 
palace ; the chapel of which still 
may be seen ; on the corner of this 
building may be seen various 



FREE TOWN, — ROUTE 2i. FRANKFORT. AFTERNOON; 



!61 



marks, indicating the height of the 
river in the years 1623, 1682, 1764, 
1784, and 1790; in February, 1844, 
it reached to the lowest iron ring. 
The next building on the quay at 
the corner of the opening is the 

Church of St. Leonard, remark- 
able for its age and arched walls ; 
opposite the entrance is an ex- 
cellent 

Batfiing Establishment^ where, 
every description of bath may be 
enjoyed at a reasonable charge. 
Continue along the quay past the 

Custom House ^ and the end of a 
iteautifui new street, Mainxer 
Strasse (the yellow house, a few 
doors up on the right, is the resi- 
dence of the English nfiinister), to 
the 

Main-Lust Garden, On summer 
evenings a band performs some 
delightful rausicc I now leave my 
friends to take their coffee, and if 
too tired to walk, a carriage will 
take them to their hotel for twelve 
kreutzers. 

The Theatre was handsomely de- 
corated in 1842 ; it possesses an 
excellent company, with an or- 
chestra composed of the first-rate 
anusicians^ The house is generally 
well filled, particularly on opera 
3tiights. The performances take 
place five times a week; admission, 
first boxes, 1 fi. 45 kr. ; second boxes, 
1 fi. 24 kr. ; parterre, 48 kr. 

The Museum, a name given to a 
society established in 1808 for the 
encouragement of young musicians 
and singers; the members meet on 
every alternate Friday evening, in 
the large room in the Weidenbusch ; 
on these occasions strangers are 
admitted on being introduced by a 
member. It is a musical treat of 
the firsit order. 

Statue of the Poet Gothe, in 
bronze, by Schwanthaler of Munich, 
has been erected in the AUee, front- 
ing the Theatre. It is a singular 
circumstance that M. Stieglmayer, 



the founder, died almost immediately 
after the casting of this statue was 
completed, 

Gothe was born in the Hirsch- 
Graben, Lit. F. No. 74, the family 
arms are over the door. 

The Rothschild family continue 
to support the institutions of their 
native city with their usual libe- 
rality, the house in Juden Gasse, 
No. 78, is still inhabited by Ma- 
dame la Mere at this moment, 
March, 1847, ninety-five years of 
age. 

The Synagogue in the Juden 
Gasse; it is worthy a visit ; Friday 
evenings after six o'clock is the best 
time. 

Divine Service, according to the 
rites of the Church of England, is 
celebrated every Sunday morning at 
half-past eleven, by the Rev. W. 
Bolton in the French church. 

An English Bible Society exists 
in Frankfort, 

The English physician is Sir A. 
Downie. 

Passports are signed by the Eng- 
lish Minister, the Hon. B. Fox 
Strangways, Neue Mainzer Strass, 
between the hours of ten and twelve. 

Bankers. Messrs. Gogel, Koch, 
and Co., who are also exporters of 
Hhine and Moselle wines. 

Diligences daily to Leipsig and 
Dresden, in thirty-six hours; Cob- 
lentz every evening at six, in twelve 
hours; to Paris in sixty hours; to 
Wlirtzburg, Eatisbon, and Ham- 
burg. 

Railway trains to Mayence, from 
the 16th of May to the 30th of 
September, at 6^, i>, 11, 3, 5^, 8^, 
First class, fi. 2. 6. ; second class, 
fi. 1. 27 ; third class, fi. 1. ; fourth 
class, 42 kr. : to Wiesbaden, first 
class, fl. 2. 42. ; second class, fi. 1. 
48; third class, fl. 1. 15.; fourth 
class, 51 kr. Children under ten 
3'ears, half price. Charge for car- 
riages : to Mayence, fl. 8. 15.; to 
Wiesbaden, fl. 9. 12 kr. 



162 



ROUTE 21.— FRANKFORT. PART 111. 



Omnibuses attend the arrival of 
the trains ; fare for each person, 
including portmanteau, carpet bag, 
and hat case, 18 kr. ; without bag- 
gage, 12 kr. 

A railway is now open between 
Frankfort and Heidelberg. See next 
page. 

Steam-packets leave Frankfort 
for Mayence twice a day, fi'om the 
1st of May, in two hours; fares, 
first cabin, fl. 1. 24. ; second cabin, 
48 kr. To Wurtzburg every morn- 
ing at half-past 6 ; fares, fl. 5. 12., in 
the best place ; second place, fl. 2. 
30 ; to ascend the Main is a tedious 
affair. 

Rhine Steam- packets. Travellers 
may book themselves in Frankfort, 
by the Dusseldorf or Cologne Com- 
pany's boats, either up or down the 
Rhine. 

Mr. G. Krebs, opposite the post 
office, is agent for the former com- 
pany, speaks English, and is also 
the agent for the General Steam 
Navigation Company, and is capa- 
ble, as well as willing, to render 
every information to strangers. 
Mr. Krebs keeps one of the best 
selected stocks of Havanna and 
other cigars to be found in Frank- 
fort ; also a great variety of fancy 
snuffs, tobacco, <fec. His old Cognac 
is strongly^recommended, as well as 
his groceries. 

Hackney-Jiys with one horse, ply 
for hire in various parts of the 
town. The regulated charge for 
two persons, per hour, 48 kr. ; three 
quarters of an hour, 36 kr. ; half an 
]:our. 24 kr. ; quarter of an hour, 12 
kr. ; a course within the gates is 12 
kr ; three or four persons pay a 
third more. 

There are two fairs held at 
Frankfort during the year ; one at 
Easter, and again three weeks 
before Michaelmas ; during which 
thj town is very gay. 

J. N. Trier &Co. in the Zeil H. 
No. 1. (TurkenschuBs) are respect- 
able money changers. 



Excursions from Frankfort. 

The most delightful excursion 
in the neighbourhood of Frankfort 
is to Hamburg; handsome and con- 
venient carriages start from the 
post office at least ten times a day ; 
fare, 30 kr. Omnibuses from the 
lower end of the Ziel also several 
times a day; fare, 24 kr. A car- 
riage may be hired to convey a par- 
ty there and return in. the evening 
for seven florins, exclusive of drink- 
geld. The diligence takes one hour 
and a half, the carriage about two 
hours. 

The exterior of Frankfort, and 
its near and more distant environt* 
too, demand the attention of the 
traveller. The most charming 
walks and plantations encircle the 
town. To this we must add the 
number of villas, fine pleasure gar- 
dens, and country houses, which 
afford a very pleasant view, and 
constitute an enviable preference of 
Frankfort. 

The following places are in the 
immediate neighbourhood : 

Bornheim, a considerable hamlet, 
half a league distant from the town, 
much frequented, especially in 
summer, at the fair, and the lark 
feast. Hausen, in the lovely Nidda- 
grounds, with some villas, a short 
league from the town. The little 
charchessian town of Bockenheim, 
which almost touches the watch- 
tower of that name. Modelheim, 
scarcely a quarter of a league from 
Hansen, the seat of an old noble 
family. The palace garden, which 
is laid out in the English fashion, 
and some villas, render it very plea- 
ing. The Forsthaus (house of the 
forester), one league from the town, 
on the left bank of the Main, in a 
wood that is laid out in the manner 
of a pleasure garden. The Reidhof, 
a splendid villa of the late Baron 
M. von Eethraann, with a fine park 
stocked with game. Oberrad lies 
between Offenbach and Frankfort. 



FREE TOWN. — ROUTE 22. FRANKFORT. 



163 



Offenbachf formerly the residence 
of the Prince of Isenburg. The 
town has cheerful streets, many fine 
buildings, about 7,500 inhabitants, 
and 540 houses. The ancient Ger- 
man palace, built by Reinhard, 
Count of Isenburg, in 1556, lies 
on the bank of the Maine. Oflfen- 
bach has many considerable manu- 
factures, especially that of coach 
making. 

Omnibuses run to Offenbach every 
half hour; fare, 1*2 kr. 



Frankfort distant. 




from 


6. mil. 


E. mil 


Amsterdam 


. 58 


267 


Antwerp . 
Augsburg 
Bale . 


. 58 
. 47 
. 47 


267 
216 
216 


Berlin 


. 67 


308 


Calais 


. 81 


372 


Carlsbad . 


. 46 


218 


Dresden . 


. 57 


270 


Hamburg 

Homburg 

Kissingen 

Leipsig 

Marienbad 


. 64 
. 2 
. 21 
. 43 
. 44 


297 

9| 

66 

198 

204 


Munich 


. 45 


207 


Paris 


. 74 


340 


Stuttgard 


. 26 


126 


Strasburg 
Vienna 


. 30 
. 94 


138 
432 



EOUTE 22.— Eailroad. 

FRANKFORT TO DARMSTADT AND 
HEIDELBERG. 

9 German, 41^ English miles. 

Trains leave Frankfort for Hei- 
delberg, through Darmstadt, three 
times a day ; fare, including 40 lbs. 
of luggage, first class, 3 fl. 33 kr. ; 
second class, 2 ti. 33 kr. ; third class, 
1 fl. 45 kr. 

DARMSTADT. 

Hotels. JSotelt/e Darmstadt Jiez,T- 

est to the railway, excellent, with 

reasonable charges : breakfast, 30 kr. ; 

dinner at table d'hote, 1 fl. ; bed, 

48 kr. ; charge for sitting room, per 

diem, 1 fl. 30 kr. Traube. 

Darmstadt^ which was about fifty 

i years ago an insignificant place, with 

. 700 houses, and a population of not 

quite 9,000 souls, has been im- 



proTed so much under the govern- 
ment of the present Grand Duke 
and his father, as to have at present 
above 1,500 houses, and 30,500 in- 
habitants, besides the garrison. 

The Museum in the palace con- 
tains a beautiful collection of prints 
and drawings, and curious antiqui- 
ties ; among which there is a well pre- 
served mummy, a great variety of 
Roman antiquities, Etrurian "vases, 
lamps, columns, gems, statues, busts, 
mosaic work, carved works of vari- 
ous kinds, idols, and the like, and 
a very interesting collection of coins. 
Open every day. 

The Cabinet of Natural Curiosi- 
ties is particularly valuable, on ac- 
count of the bones of animals quite 
unknown to the present generation, 
e. g. bones of mammoths, most of 
which were found in the country 
of Hesse Darmstadt, and stuffed 
birds. 

The Collection of Pictures amount- 
ed in 1820 to six hundred, in 1844, 
to the same number. There is also 
a tolerably complete collection of 
phalla-plastics, or imitations of Ro- 
man antiquities, cut in cork; most 
of them were done by Antonio Chi- 
chi, the inventor of this art at Rome. 
Some exquisitely fine casts of classic 
monuments of antiquity, and a col- 
lection of the dresses of different na- 
tions, of Asia, &c. 

The Theatre was built in the 
years 1818 and 1819, in a noble 
style; is quite isolated, and stands 
fronting the palace : it holds about 
1800 spectators. Open Sunday, 
Tuesday, and Friday. 

There are only two churches in 
Darmstadt — the town church, near 
the market-place, and the Roman 
Catholic church. The former is a 
plain rude building, in the Gothic 
style of the beginning of the six- 
teenth century. The latter, stand- 
ing upon Riedeselberg, overtops all 
other houses, and being a large 
rotunda, makes a striking impres- 
sion on the beholder, by its simple 



164 



ROUTE 22.— BERGSTRASSE. ODENWALD, PART III. 



architecture and the harmony of its 
proportions. 

The Exercierhaus is a splendid 
piece of architecture. It encloses 
a space 319 feet in length, and 151 
in breadth, unsupported by pillars. 
The hanging work, by which the 
ceiling is upheld, is deemed a 
master-piece. This house serves 
at present to keep a pretty numerous 
artillery, and the military accoutre- 
ments. 

The Casino. Strangers are ad- 
mitted by a card of introduction 
from the proprietor of the hotel. 

The New Mev^s, forming a large 
square, each side measuring 450 feet, 
are provided with all requisite neces- 
saries. There are kept a consider- 
able number of stallions, for the im- 
provement of the breed of horses in 
the country. 

There are also several beautiful 
gardens in and near the town. The 
palace garden, called Herrengarten, 
abounding in beauties, and the gar- 
den of »Prince Ejnile are the princi- 
pal, from which you have a charming 
view of the Rhine and the Donners- 
berg, the Maine, the Taunus, and 
the Bergstrasse. 

The Carlshof, about a quarter of 
a league from the town, with some 
fine buildings, planted by the late 
Baron von Barkhausen, minister of 
state. 

Between this and Heidelberg the 
following objects deserve notice : — 
the beginning of the Bergstrasse 
at the gates of Darmstadt, the old 
knights' castle, the Biesensaule (the 
giant's column), the Felsenmeer 
(sea of rocks j, the Melibocus, and 
the fountain of Auerbach, the plea- 
sure house, called the Schweden- 
siiule (Swedish column), near Stock- 
stadti 

From Darmstadt to Heidelberg 
the road is celebrated as the Berg- 
strasse; the beauty and variety of 
which forms a striking contrast 



with that between Frankfort and 
Darmstadt ; a few miles beyond the 
latter city begins the Odenwald 
district, which is aptly described by 
the author of an ' Autumn near the 
Rhine.' 

'< On the left, the wooded and 
vine-covered range of mountains, 
with their old castles, forming the 
boundary of the Odenwald, rilns 
parallel with the road, and immedi- 
ately above it. On the right stretches 
a vast sandy flat, through which the 
Rhine wanders, bounded by the 
heights of Mont Tonnerre and Vo- 
ges^ at 50 or 60 miles distance. The 
villages and towns on the road are 
beautifully situated at the foot of the 
mountains, overhung by vine- covered 
slopes, and embossed in orchards, 
which extend in cheerful avenues 
along the road, from one town to an- 
other." 



mountain on the 
many of those in 



Almost every 
Bergstrasse, and 

the Odenwald, are crowned by a 
castle ; one of those relies of the 
days of knighthood, which, embo- 
somed in the woods of beech, or 
surrounded by vineyards, adds the 
interest of its antiquity and chival- 
rous associations to the charms of 
the landscape. 

The Melibocus is a conical hill 
of granite, 1632 feet above the 
level of the sea : it is the highest 
of the Odenwald chain of hills, and 
is very conspicuous on account of 
the white tower on its top, erected 
1772. The more distant objects 
are Spires, and Mannheim, with its 
slated dome to the left ; "Worms, 
and its Gothic cathedral opposite; 
and the dark towers of Mayence, 
lower down. The tower is built 
on the very edge of the declivity. 
The smoking villages, the gardens, 
vineyards, and orchards of the 
Bergstrasse, appeared immediately 
beneath us. We traced the course 
of the Rhine, which now gleamed 



DUCHY OF BADEN. — ROUTE 22. HEIDELBERG. 



165 



in the bright sun, and appeared 
little removed from the base of the 
mountain, from above Mannheim, 
almost to Bingen, a distance of 
nearly 60 English miles. At Bin- 
gen it loses itself in the defiles of 
the Eheingau mountains, which 
bound the view on that side. The 
course of the placid Xeckar and its 
junction with the Rhine are visible, 
as also that of the Maine. A good 
telescope is kept in the tower, by 
the help of which, in a clear day, 
we were told you might distin- 
guish the tower of Strasburg cathe- 
dral at a distance of above 100 
English miles. Towards the north, 
the view reaches the mountains 
in the neighbourhood of Giessen, 
in Hesse, 60 miles distant. To the 
east lies the Odenwald, over the 
chaotic wooded hiils of which the 
prospect stretches as far as the 
vicinity of Wiirtzburg— a distance 
of 60 or 70 miles ; while on 
the west, across the Rhine, the eye 
ranges over the smooth plain, till 
it is bounded by the blue broken 
tops of the Mont Tonnerre and the 
Voges mountains, at a nearly equal 
distance." 

HEPPENHEIM 

formerly belonged to the electorate 
of Mayence, but is now in the 
Grand Duchy of Hesse- Darmstadt ; 
it is situated on the Bergstrasse, 
and contains 440 houses, and 3,600 
inhabitants. On entering the 
church, you see immediately under 
the tower an inscription of the time 
of Charlemagne, a.d. 805. In the 
neighbourhood is the eminence 
called Laudberg, on which justice 
was formerly publicly administered. 
The ruins of Lorsch Abbey deserve 
notice. 

HEIDELBERG. 

Lms. The Badische Hof (court 
of Baden), the Prinz Carl (Prince 
Charles), near the corn market. 



with a view of the ruins of the 
castle, the Hollande. 

The celebrated University of 
Heidelberg, after Prague the oldest 
in Germany, was founded by the 
Count Palatine Ruprecht, in 1346, 
and its privileges confirmed by 
Pope Urbanus, in 1376. It obtained, 
however, far greater extension 
about 1386, when the celebrated 
Marsilius, of Ingelheim, was ap- 
pointed the first rector. Bj the 
cession of the left bank of the 
Rhine, in 1802, the university lost 
the greater part of its revenues, 
and was reduced to the brink of 
ruin, when Charles Frederic, Elec- 
tor of Baden, who had obtained 
possession of the hitherto Rhenish 
Palatinate, newly founded the uni- 
versity, and provided for its dura- 
tion, by assigning to it a consider- 
able fund from the treasury (which 
has been augmented since). Hence 
the university calls itself at pre- 
sent Ruperto Carolina, in honour 
of its second founder. With this 
period begins the new era of the 
university, which, by the celebrity 
of its teachers, and the increasing 
number of students, under a pater- 
nal government, occupied one of 
the first places among the German 
universities ; but since 1830 it has 
lost many of its distinguished sup- 
porters. 

The great object of interest, 
however, to aU travellers is the 
castle, the ruins of which are 
considered the finest in Europe. 
This noble pile was destroyed 
by fire, caused by lightning, in 
1764. 

The gardens afibrd most delight- 
ful walks ; from the Terrace a 
magnificent view presents itself ; 
but the finest view of the whole is 
from the hill on the right bank of 
the Neckar ; a path leads up from 
the end of the bridge. The great 
Tun of Heidelberg is said to be the 
largest cask in Germany ; it is in a 
cellar, the key of which is kept by 



166 



ROUTE 23.— MATENCE TO MANNHEIM. PART III. 



the people in the inhabited part of 
the building. This celebrated cask 
was made by order of the Elector 
Charles Theodore, in 1751, as an 
emblem of a rich and fertile wine 
country ; it has been filled with 
wine on three occasions, and wiU 
contain 283,000 bottles ; it is 33 
feet long, and 24 feet in diameter. 
Tliere is a barrel in front without 
hoops ; the wooden figure of a man 
is the efl&gy of a buffoon named 
Clemens, who drank fifteen bottles 
of wine daily, a suitable companion 
for so large a wine cask. 

The following places in the envi 
rons deserve notice, the Hdligen- 
herg, with its ruins ; the Wolfs- 
brunnen, the Stift Neuhurg (Abbey 
of Neuburg), very tasteful planta- 
tions; garden, and a chapel in the 
Gothic taste ; the Kaiserstuhl (the 
emperor's stool), with a tower, and 
a monument erected in comme- 
moration of the Emperor Francis's 
ascent to its top (1815) ; the 
Riesenstein (giant's stone), with a 
charming view of the town and 
castle. 

From Heidelberg pleasant ex- 
cursions may be made into the 
mountainous regions of the Oden- 
wald. 

KOUTE 23. THE EHINE. 

MATENCE TO MANNHEIM. 

Steam boats leave Mayence for 
Mannheim at least twice a day, and 
Strasburg once ; the scenery is 
very uninteresting, but for large 
families, or persons with much 
luggage, this route will be found 
the most comfortable, as well as 
the cheapest, to proceed either to 
Baden or Switzerland, though not 
so fast a mode of travelling. For 
the hours of departure see com- 
pany's bills. It will, however, be 
seen by the advertisement at the 
end of the book, that, to compete 
with the railway, the Cologne Com- 
pany propose to run their boats in 



one day from Cologne to Mannheim, 
and one day from Mannheim to 
Strasburg ! The fast boats reach 
Mannheim in five hours and a half 
from Mayence. 
For fares see companies' bills. 

OPPENHEIM, 

A small town, with 300 houses, 
and 2,600 inhabitants. It is sur- 
rounded by flourishing vineyards, 
particularly in the direction of 
the village of Nier stein. The old 
Gothic church, dedicated to St 
Catherine, and the ruins of the 
Castle of Landeskrone, are the 
principal architectural curiosities, 
together with an altar of Apollo 
and of the Goddess Sirona, and 
several other Eoman antiquities : 
a Swedish column marks the spot 
where Gustavus Adolphus crossed 
the Rhine on a barn door ! 

WORMS 

Is situated at no great distance 
from the Rhine, in the dominions 
of the Prince of Hesse Darmstadt. 
It contains 900 houses, and 8,000 
inhabitants. The Cathedral is a 
superb building in the Bizantine 
style, and there are several other 
churches and public buildings well 
worth visiting. 

This ancient town formerly con- 
tained a population of 30,000 souls. 
In 1521 a Diet was held in Worms, 
before which Luther declared his 
adhesion to the Reformed creed, in 
the presence of Charles V. Char- 
lemagne was married here. 

Near Worms stands a tree, under 
which Luther is said to have rested 
on his way to the diet. " 

MANNHEIM. 

Hotels. Europe, a large house, 
situated close to the place of land- 
ing for the steam packets, and 
overlooking the Rhine ; charges — 
bed-rooms, from 2 to 4 frs. ; break- 
fast, of tea or coffee, bread and 
butter, 1 fr. ; table d'hote, one 
o'clock, 2 frs. ; four o'clock, 3 frs. 



DUCHY OF BADEN. — ROUTE 24. HEIDELBERG. 



167 



Hotel du Rhin, in the town, oppo- 
site the post office ; charges — bed, 
14 frs. to 2 frs.; breakfast, -1 fr. ; 
table d'hote, 2 frs. ; separate dinner, 
3 to 4 frs. ; saloon per day, 4 frs. 

07nnibuses attend the arrival of 
the steamers to convey travellers 
to the hotels or to the railway ; fare, 
18 krs. 

Mannheim is a handsome and 
regularly built modern town, be- 
longing to the duchy of Baden, con- 
taining a population of 20,000 souls, 
including many English families. It 
was founded in 1606; but having 
been twice destroyed, during the 
thirty years' war and in 1689, it was 
re-erected, for the third time, on a 
handsome plan. 

The principal edifice is the huge 
red stone palace (das Schloss), a 
portion of which is Inhabited by 
the Grand Duchess Stephanie. The 
right wing, now in ruins, was for- 
merly the opera, but was bombarded 
by the Austrians in 1795, In one 
suite of rooms is a gaUery of paintings, 
besides which are prints, statues, 
natural history, and a library. Ad- 
joining the ruined wing is the Lyceum, 
formerly the Jesuits' College, the 
church of which (one of the ten in 
Mannheim) if not in the best taste, 
is striking and pleasing. The ex- 
terior gates are worthy of notice. 
Opposite is the Theatre (das Shaus- 
pielhaus), the orchestra ot" which is 
celebrated: it is open on Sundays, 
Tuesdays, and Thursdays. The 
Town- hall, the Arsenal, the Ob- 
servatory, the Custom-house, the 
Churches, the Place d'Armes, with 
a bronze fountain by Cruppello ; the 
market place, with a fountain. Van 
der Branden. 

Among the lounges are - the 
Garden of the Palace ; the Bridge 
of Boats, and gardens opposite, the 
Lindenhof, between the Palace - 
garden and the Schwetzingen road, 
the Muhlau, a little pleasure-house, 
with a garden. 

Mannheim has the advantage of 



an excellent English school con- 
ducted by Dr. Lovell, author of 
several works on the German lan- 
guage; to this establishment the 
sons of families residing in Mannheim 
are admitted as daily boarders. 

English divine worship is per- 
formed every Sunday Morning at 
eleven o'clock. 

ROUTE 24. RAILROAD. 

Mannheim to Heidelberg in forty 
minutes ; Carlsruhe one hour, forty- 
eight minutes ; Baden (Oos), three 
hours, thirteen minutes ; Kehl 
(Strasburg), five hours, six minutes ; 
Offenburg, four hours, fifty-three 
minutes ; Friburg, seven hours, forty 
minutes. 

Distances from place toplacein Stunden ; 
Fares in florins and kreutzers : — 





Mis 


1st CI. 


FAKES Q J pi 

2d. Cl.,^^- ^^• 


Mannheim to 


■ 


fl.kr. 


fl. kr. fl. kr. 


Friedrichsfeld 


2 


24 


15 12 


Heidelberg 


2i 


51 


30 


21 


Wiesloch - 


3 


1 27 


1 


45 


Langenbriicken 


2* 


1 54 


1 18 


67 


Bruchsal . 


2 


2 21 


1 33 


1 12 


Weingarten 


If 


2 45 


1 51 


1 24 


Durlacli . 


1 


3 6 


2 3 


1 33 


Carlsruhe 


n 


3 18 


2 12 


1 39 


Ettlingen 


H 


3 36 


2 24 


1 48 


Muggensturm . 


H 


4 9 


2 45 


2 e 


Rastatt 


2 


4 21 


2 54 


2 12 


Oos . 


n 


4 48 


3 12 


2 24r 


Buhl 


2 


5 15 


3 30 


2 39 


Achern , 


1* 


5 39 


3 45 


2 51 


Rencben . 


1^ 


5 57 


3 57 


3 


Appenweier 


If 


6 12 


4 9 


3 6 


Offenburg 


4i 


6 33 


4 24 


3 18 


Kehl . 




6 45 


4 30 


3 24 


Friburg . 




8 36 


5 51 




CJ 


kB&IAa£S. 


From Mannhe 


im to fl. kr. 


Heidelberg 


. 6 6 


Carlsruhe 


. 19 39 


Oos . 


. 28 39 


Offenburg 


. 39 18 


Kehl 


. 40 30 




HOKSES. 


From Mannhe 


im to fl. kr. 


Heidelberg 


. 1 42 


Carlsruhe 


. 6 33 


Oos . 


. 9 38 


Offenburg 


13 6 


Kehl 




. , 


, 


13 30 



168 



ROUTE 24. — CARLSRUHE. PART III. 



Dogs 
From Mannheim to 
Heidelberg 
Carlsruhe 
Oos . 
OflEenburg 
Kehl 



fl. kr. 
9 
33 

48 

1 6 
1 8 



Trains six times a day. 

Excursionists intending to visit 
Schwetzingen, should stop at Frie- 
drichsfeld station ; in that case it 
will be best to take your place only 
to that station, leave your luggage 
in the office of the railway, and 
proceed by the next train. 

Schwetzingen — although placed in 
the midst of a sandy plain, this 
royal garden presents rich vegeta- 
tion. It contains a variety of in- 
teresting objects, such as the Tem- 
ple of Apollo, Pan's Fountain, the 
Bird's Arbour, the Painted Wall, 
the Temple of Minerva, the Mosque 
(die Moschee), and the Roman Ruin. 
It also contains a good botanical 
garden. 

Heidelberg^ described at page 165. 

Bruchsal is a small but handsome 
town situated on the Salze; it was 
formerly the capital of the bishopric 
of Spire, and the bishop's place of 
residence, but it is now in the Grand 
Duchy of Baden. The objects of 
interest are — St. Peter's Church, 
the Hospital of the Brothers of 
Mercy, the Wasserburg, and the 
Chateau, a fine building with a 
magnificent prospect over the plain 
of the Rhine. 

Durlach is in the Grand Duchy 
of Baden, rather more than two 
English miles from Carlsruhe, and 
has 6,000 inhabitants. It was 
formerly the capital of the Duchy, 
and has declined very much since 
Carlsruhe became the chief town. 
In a garden are some Roman an- 
tiquities. In the vicinity are the 
ruins of a Roman villa. There is 
a vineyard on Mount Thurmberg, 
which is a favourite promenade of 
the citizens of Carlsruhe during the 
vintage. The Allechaus between 
Carlsruhe and Durlach is also much 
resorted to. 



CARLSRUHE. 

The Golden Cross (Post). This 
house is now under a new proprietor, 
who has newly furnished it, made 
new staircases and water closets, 
and added other improvements, which 
render it now a very comfortable and 
clean house, with moderate charges. 
Mr. Grosse, the landlord, speaks 
English, and is very attentive to his 
guests. The house is opposite the 
Post-office. 

Hotels. The Prince Here ditaire 
(Erbprinz), good, with moderate 
charges. 

Angleierre, good, 

Carlsruhe. The residence of the 
Grand Duke of Baden lies a league 
and a half from the Rhine, in the 
Hartvjald (Hart forest), which en- 
closes the town, partly in the north 
and west. The foundation stone of 
a hunting palace was laid in 1715, 
and the town was joined to it after- 
wards. There is no doubt but that 
Carlsruhe is one of the finest towns 
in Germany. Its population amounts 
to twenty thousand souls. The 
streets are regular, broad and light ; 
some of them aflfbrd a prospect of 
the neighbouring mountains, whilst 
others form a pleasant architec- 
tural picture ; and the Hart forest, 
which encircles part of the town, 
has some shady walks, where the 
gravel-paths are generally dry. The 
rapidly increasing flourishing state 
of the town may be dated from the 
time when the Margraviate was 
raised to an Electorate, and after- 
wards to a Grand Duchy. It is 
built in the shape of a fan, all streets 
converging at the castle, which 
forms the centre. 

The Palace. From its tower 
(called the lead-tower), forming the 
centre of all the streets of Carlsruhe, 
there is a rich and extensive prospect. 

The Palace of the Margraves of 
Baden, whose facade is adorned with 
six beautiful Corinthian colums. In'' 
this palace the great hall is orna- 
mented with beautiful landscape 



DUCHY OF BADEN.— ROUTE 24. BAOEN-BADEN. HOTELS, J 69 



scenery by Kunze, and particularly 
worthy of notice; a fine garden is 
contiguous to it. 

Roman Catholic Churchy built in 
the form of a rotunda. The fine 
organ in it stood formerly in the 
church of the abbey of St. Blasien. 
Opposite to it stands the office of 
the Minister for Foreign Affairs, and 
at the other side the spacious House 
of the States, in which the halls of 
the two chambers are particularly 
worth seeing. 

The Town-house, opposite to the 
Evangelical Church, in the market- 
place, a large mansion, built in a 
plain, though pleasing style, which 
may be called a real ornament of the 
market-place. The tower that rises 
behind the Town-house contains the 
prisons ; the pyramid standing in 
the middle of the market-place covers 
the remains of the founder of Carls- 
rube. 

The museum, intended for social 
entertainments. Strangers are ad- 
mitted. 

Theatre. This splendid building 
was destroyed by fire on the 28th of 
February, 1847. 

% The Palace Garden is a fine 
plantation, which, on one side, is 
contiguous to a pheasant preserve, 
and on the other to the botanical 
garden. The latter contains above 
six thousand species. 

The railroad passes nesiT Etlingen, 
containing a population of 3,000 
souls. There are two large paper 
mills here. 

RASTADT. 

Inns. Post, very b '1 ; Golden 
Cross, no better ; Star, worse. 

Rastadt was formerly the resi- 
dence of the Margraves of Baden-" 
Baden. Its population is 3,000. 
Here is a handsome chateau, with 
a great variety of collections and 
Turkish trophies, gained by Prince 
Louis, of Baden, and also a garden. 
There is a splendid view from the 
Belvidere, where there is a statue of 
Jupiter. There is a Lyceum in the 



ci-devant Convent of Piarists. A 
peace was signed here in 1714, and 
a congress held in 1797 and 1798, 
for the execution of the peace of 
Campo-Formio. There is a monu- 
ment in memory of the French am- 
bassadors assassinated at a short 
distance from Rastadt in 1 798. 

Rastadt is now being strongly 
fortified. On the left is the 

Favourite, a former residence of 
the Margraves of Baden. 

Oos Station. The trains to con- 
vey travellers to Baden branch off 
here. 

Diligences to Wilbad every day 
from Durlach at half-past two ; fare, 
two florins. 

Diligences from Carlsruhe t© Stut- 
gard every day at 2 p.m. and 10 p.m. ; 
fares, 4 fl. 51 kreutzers, in 8^ hours. 
Omnibuses at 6 and 11, a.m. and 5 
and 7, p.m. ; fare, three florins, in 
10 hours. 

English Church service every 
Sunday at 11 and 3. 

BADEN-BADEN. 

Hotel d'Angleterre, a first-rate 
fashionable house, pleasantly situated, 
with excellent dinners, good attend- 
ance, and great civility, Table d'hote 
at five o'clock. 

Cour de Bade. At the entrance 
of the town leading from Carlsruhe, 
is a large and handsome establish- 
ment, with extensive garden, baths, 
<fec. Table d'hote at five. 

Hotel de l^Europe, a large esta- 
blishment opposite the Maison de 
Conversation. 

Hotel de France, conveniently 
situated on the Promenade, clean 
and comfortable. Table d'hote at 
one and five o'clock. 

Rhine Hotel, very good, and con- 
veniently situated near the post 
and diligence office in Leopold's 
place. The house is large, and 
report speaks favourably of the 
accommodation and attendance. 
Table d'hote at one and five o'clock. 



170 



ROUTE 24. — BADEN-BADEN. PART III. 



Hotel de Russee, very much im- 
proved, now very good. 

The charges at all the hotels are 
nearly alike. Table d'hote at one 
o'clock, 1 florin 12 kr. ; at five 
o'clock, 1 florin, 45 kr. ; half a bottle 
of wine costs 12 kr. more ; bed-rooms 
from 1 to 2 florins ; sitting rooms 
from 2 florins 20 kr. to 5 florins ; tea 
or cofl'ee from 36 to 48 kr. ; in addi- 
tion the proprietors charge one franc 
a day for the service of the hotel. 

The Town is composed of several 
irregular streets described in the 
usual fashion, with various names, 
difficult to express, and more diffi- 
cult to understand. The arrange- 
ment of numbering all the houses, 
without any regard to streets, con- 
secutively from one to 593 (the 
number of houses at the present 
moment constituting the town of 
Baden), renders a knowledge of the 
names of the streets unnecessa-y. 
The boss of locality will be found 
sufficient, if you have it. The 
numbers commence at the first 
house on entering from Rastadt, 
proceed up what is called the 
grand rue or Lange Strasse, pop- 
ping into the lanes and alleys, en 
route, round by the Hotel d' An- 
gleterre, taking in the entire quar- 
ter of the town between the new 
promenade and Stephania baths, 
crossing the promenade, and after 
many ups and downs, ins and outs, 
their termination will be found 
(by people curious in that way) 
near the town church; it therefore 
follows that Nos. from 1 to 136 
will be found between the entrance 
of the town and Leopold's place. 
Having taken a turn round the 
conversation-house, from 136 to 
360 will be found in the Lichten- 
thaler quarter, and from 375 to 
593 in the neighbourhood of the 
hotel Darmstadt, market place, 
and church. This is the most per- 
fect idea I can venture to give, 
after several ineffectual attempts 
to do better, for a more strange 



mode of giving a whereabouts 
could not be devised ; some streets 
have the odd numbers on one 
side, and the even on the other, 
then running on consecutively on 
one side and half through the 
town before the other side is 
honoured with a notice. One 
thing, however, is quite certain, 
the houses are all numbered, and 
therefore those who may want a 
number from one to 593 will be 
sure to find it. 

Furnished Lodgings. Baden con- 
tains about 600 houses, 390 of 
which are lodging houses ; it may 
hence be inferred that no difficulty 
exists as to obtaining apartments 
by those who object to the bustle 
of a hotel. For persons intending 
only to make a short stay a hotel is 
of course the most desirable ; in- 
deed, few, if any, of the larger and 
best apartments can be hired for 
less than a month, but small apart- 
ments and single bed rooms may be 
hired by the w^eek, varying of 
course in price according to size 
and situation, from 20 to 400 florins 
a month. The greatest number of 
the large suites are in the new 
promenade and the Sophienstrasse ; 
many of the best houses contain 
three and four saloons, and from 
eighteen to twenty-four bed rooms, 
with kitchens, stabling, coach-house, 
&c. ; but in other parts of the 
town (they are occasionally to be 
met with in Lange Strasse) there are 
several large apartments, but the 
situation is bad, and the entrances 
are frequently through a dirty^ 
yard. In most lodgings the people 
will only undertake to get break- 
fast and tea, so that those who 
prefer dining in their apartments 
must either order dinner from a 
restaurant, or provide servants of 
their own to cook it. To enable 
those who might prefer adopting 
the latter plan, the prices of pro- 
visions, &c. will be found else- 
where. 



DUCHY OF BADEN. — KOUTE 24. BADEK-BADEN. 



171 



The Conversation Hozise, devoted 
to the various purposes of assem- 
blies, card parties, meetings, eating, 
drinking, smoking, and last, though 
not least, gaming ! The house lies 
in the back gromid of a large green, 
which is bordered on either side 
with chesnut trees. In the centre 
of the building rises the hall, it is 
forty-nine feet high, 120 feet high, 
and eighty -nine feet broad. Two 
arcades connect this hall on one 
side with the theatre, and on the 
other by the restaurant. On the 
left side of the building there are 
two rows of shops, containing the 
usual articles of luxury and dress, 
together with the Tyrolese and 
Nuremburg toys. 

Balls and Reunions. — The former 
take place every alternate Saturday 
in the grand saloon during the 
months of July and August and the 
latter three times a week, Mondays, 
Wednesdays, and Fridays in the 
smaller one- 

Terms of Admission, 

fl. kr. fr. ct. 
One person fifteen days 4 40 soit 10 

J, „ one month 7 48 ,, 16 75 

Two ,, fifteendays 7 48 „ \Q 75 

., ,, one month 14 15 „ 30 55 

Three ,, fifteendays 10 48 „ 23 15 

,, ,, one month 17 ,, 36 45 

Four „ fifteendays 14 ,, 30 

„ „ one month 25 ,, 53 60 

Five „ fifteendays 15 „ 34 30 

„ ,, one month 28 ,, 60 

One „ forthe season 21 5 „ 45 

A single admission to a ball or 
reunion is fixed at fl. 1. ,24 kr. 
3frs. ^vs- a. 

The etiquette observed at these 
assemblies is of the stiff order. The 
M. C. and his capering deputy, 
manage the affair no doubt to their 
own satisfaction, but to the majo- 
rity of the young people who do 
not enjoy the patronage of the 
Princess Rouski-Pouski or the 
Count Piski-Whiski, but who never- 
theless go for the purpose of enjoy- 
ing a dance, the result is anything 
but gratifying or satisfactory. 



The room used for the reunions 
is nearly as long as the large assem- 
bly-room ; the orchestra is conve- 
niently placed in a shghtly elevated 
position in the centre of the room, 
and the entrance and extremity are 
most abundantly decorated with 
shrubs and flowers; altogether the 
appearance of this room when 
lighted up is chaste and elegant, 
and well adapted to the purpose 
for which it is used. A card-room 
adjoining is also at the disposal of 
those who prefer a rubber or a game 
at ecarte. 

Dancing usually commences at 
half- past eight and terminates at 
eleven. Subscriptions are received 
at the rooms, the library, and in 
the anti-room on the nights of the 
reunions. 

Music. The band plays in the 
neighbourhood of the pump-room 
every morning from half-past six 
till eight, in the orchestra daily 
from three till four, and in the 
evening from seven till eight; on 
Saturday evenings during the 
months of July and August a band 
of first-rate musicians perform 
selections from the most popular 
overtures, duets, fantaisies, and 
solos. On Sunday evenings a simi- 
lar performance takes place in the 
grande salle, when all the apart- 
ments are thrown open for the gra- 
tuitous use of the public. 

The Gaming commences at half- 
past ten in the morning and con- 
tinues without intermission (unless 
there are no players), until twelve 
at night ; up to six or seven o'clock 
two tables only are used, one for 
rouge and noir, the other for rou- 
lette, in the evening another room 
is opened, where there is a second 
roulette table. The smallest stake 
allowed at r. and n. is half a crown 
dollar, at roulette a florin may be 
staked, but the largest sums are 
risked at the k. and n. table, con- 
sequently around this table the 
lookers on appear to find the great- 



'l"7^ 



.\i^i(. 



ildUTB ''24.— BADEN-BADEN. 'l^AR^ lit 



est attraction as well as the players, 
and from seven till ten or eleven in 
the evening a good position either 
to play or see is difficult to be ob- 
tained. 

A Restauration is also attached ; 
when you purpose dining, it is a 
desirable plan to bespeak your 
place in the morning ; this is not 
only a benefit to yourself, but justice 
to the host, who then can ofier nO 
apology for short commons. The 
dinners and wine are good, but 
dearer than elsewhere ; there is but 
one table d'hote in the day, at five 
o'clock; price, including half a 
Bottle of wine, 4 francs, or 1 florin 
'52 kr. 

Price of Refreshments. 



Ice . . . . 

Coffee (noir) 

,, with milk . 
Lemonade 

,, gazuese 
Tea, the portion 

,, with bread and butter 
Glass of brandy- 
Bottle of porter 

,, ofbeer . 
Bavaria beer . 



&. kr. 
24 
9 
14 
18 
30 
24 
34 
6 
2 12 
9 
12 



The Reading-room is another 
limb of this extensive establish- 
ment, and a delightful refuge it is, 
particularly to the unfortunate 
gambler, who may here console 
himself by conning the price of 3|^ 
reduced consols. The Times, Chro- 
nicle, Standard, Sun, and Galignani, 
are taken in. Subscription : — 





fl. kr 


For three months 


8 6 


,, one month 


3 36 


,, one week 


..10 


„ one day 


12 



The reading room is also supplied 
with German, French, and Dutch 
newspapers, periodicals, and re- 
views. 

The Library is well supplied with 
the newest works in the various 
languages, a catalogue of which 
may be had on application. 

The Theatre adjoins the library. 
In the season there are performances 



both German and French, but few 
people attend except upon very ex- 
traordinary occasions, which occur 
but seldom, the pieces are played 
generally in a respectable manner? 
but the all absorbing maison de 
conversation, is too close and too 
formidable an opponent to allow 
people to think of a theatre during 
the months of July and August, 
much less to enter one. 

The Drinklmll — This chaste and 
elegant building was commenced in 
1839; it is 270 feet in length, form- 
ing a colonnade, supported by 16 
Corinthian pillars. The building is 
most conveniently placed, and the 
interior arrangement corresponds 
perfectly with the external beauty 
of the building; the ceiling of the 
pump room is supported by a beau- 
tiful marble pillar, from which is 
constantly running the hot mineral 
water ; on the right and left are 
two ante-rooms where the whey 
and cold mineral waters are sup- 
plied. The walls, both internally 
and under the colonnade, are to be 
adorned with fresco paintings, the 
floor of the pump-room is to be of va- 
riegated marble, and the colonnade 
of Roman tiles; altogether this 
building, whether as regards situa- 
tion, convenience, form, or decora- 
tion, bids fair to exceed in beauty 
any similar establishment in Eli- 
rope. 

The doors of the Drinkhall are 
open from five o'clock in the morn- 
ing till twelve at noon, and from 
five till seven in the evening. 

The mineral water used in the 
baths and for drinking is that 6i 
the Ursprung, which issues from 
a rock near the church, and con- 
veyed in pipes to the various ba- 
thing establishments ; it is perfect- 
ly clear. This spring yields with- 
in twenty -four hours 7,34.5,440 
cubic inches of water. That it has 
been known to and used by the 
Romans appears by the remains 
of Roman masonry found here. 



DUCHY OF BADEN. — ROUTE 24. BADEN-BADEN. 



173 



The water has a smell like broth, 
and a weak salty alkalish taste ; 
54 Reaumur or 154 Fahrenheit. 
According to the analysis of the 
water from the Urspring, made by 
Kastner, a pint of water, weighing 
7,392 grains, contains twenty-two 
:n)ths grains of solid matter, the 
principal ingredient of which is 
common sea-salt, there being not 
less than 17^^ grains of that substance 
present. The remainder consists of 
sulphates and hydrochlorates of lime 
and magnesia, with traces of car- 
bonate of iron, and about half a cubic 
inch of carbonic acid gas. 

The water is conducted through 
pipes to the new Drinkhall, in 
reaching which, however, it loses 
nothing of its general efficacy, and 
very little of its usual warmth ; the 
quantity of water to be drank va- 
ries according to the advice of the 
physician, generally from two to 
eight or ten glasses in half-hour, 
twenty minutes, or quarter- hour 
intervals, to be drunk as warm as 
it runs from the fountain ; half an 
hour afterwards patients should take, 
if their strength permit it, moderate 
exercise. Persons who suffer by a 
slow digestion or are used to take 
much medicine, should put in every 
glass a little packet of Carlsbad salts, 
to be had at the Drinkhall, which 
consists of bicarbonate sulphate 
of soda, and dissolved easily. They 
should operate two or three times ; 
in a contrary case, the number of 
glasses or the quantity of the salts 
must be increased. 

Besides the mineral waters, whey, 
prepared by a person fi-om Weisbad, 
Canton Appenzell in Switzerland, is 
also drank like the mineral water, 
from two, four, to six glasses, with 
exercise taken between each glass. 

Sick persons, on whom they do not 
operate, may put in the first and 
second glass a paper of the salts 
before mentioned ; the whey should 
generally be drunk warm. But those 



who are subject to agitations should 
let it cool a little. 

The use of the whey is especially 
serviceable in cases where separa- 
tive and secretive activities are to 
be excited, where interruptions in 
the circulation of outward passage 
from the abdomen are to be removed, 
in an inflamed and agitated state of 
the blood ; or if a sharpness of the 
blood is to be relieved ; and where 
an excessive irritability of the nerves 
is existing. Dr. G. 

Prices of Mineral Waters in the 
Drinkhall. 





Bottle half 


Selterser .... 


kr. 18 


12 


Fachinger . . . . 




, 18 


12 


Geilnauer .... 




, 18 


_ 


Neiderbronner 




, 24 





Canstadter .... 




. 16 


10 


Freyersbacher . . . 




, 12 


— 


Homburg .... 




_ 





Adelheid 




\ 36 





Kissenger . . . • 




, 18 


12 


Marienbader Kreutzbrunnen 




, 36 


22 


Ripoldsauer 




, 10 





Griesbacher . . . . 




, 12 





Patersthaler water . 




. 12 





Stab I and Weinbrunner 




„ 20 


15 


Pyrmounter Stablbrunnen 




, 48 


86 


Langenbrucker 




, 16 


12 


Weilbacher Sulphur water 




, 18 





Emser Krancheu . 







12 


Carlsbader Salze the pound, 


fl 


! 4 


30 


— — the ounce . 




J 


18 


A paper sufficient for a dose 




,j 


2 


Goats whey, the glass . 




, — 


4 



Physician^ Dr. Guggert. 

Public Walks. The fashionable 
promenade is the neighbourhood of 
the conversation-house, its bounds 
are, to the east the Oosbrook, and 
to the south-west a hill, which now 
is incorporated with the plantation. 
Shady gravel walks cross each other 
in all directions ; and there are many 
spots here that afford charming pros- 
pects. 

The Lichtenthal Oak Avenue is 
mostly resorted to in the evening, 
and commonly crowded with car- 
riages and horsemen, and the paths 



174 



ROUTE 24.-r-BAD.EX- BADEN. EXCURSIONS. PART III. 



on either side with pedestrians. 
^^t the first turning on the right a 
path takes you to the hill called 
the Beyting, and the ruins of Yberg. 
At the extremity of the second oak 
avenue, lies to your right, the plea- 
sant hamlet of Guenzenberg, and 
toyourleftthe Gruene Wi?ikel (green 
corner) with a public house, and 
lodgings for strangers. From this 
place it is only a' quarter of an 
hour's walk to Lichtentbal, to 
which place the avenue extends. 
Lichtenthal is properly only the 
name of the nunnery that stands 
here ; the -valley is called Beuren. 
At the entrance, near the bridge, 
stands the bathing house, with its 
natural steel baths ; over the bridge 
is the nunnery, it is of the order of 
the Cistercians, and was founded 
in 1245 by the Margravine of Irm- 
engard, and preserved when the 
other religious houses were secular- 
ized. The foundress spent here the 
last of her days, and several prin- 
cesses of the family took the veil 
here afterwards. At present the 
nuns take their vow only for two 
or three years, and occupy them- 
selves with the iriStruction of the 
girls of the valley. The funeral 
chapel, in which many Margraves 
of Baden-Baden, together with 
their families, are buried, is re- 
markable : it has been renewed, 
and adorned with several fine pic- 
tures of the old German school. 
Those painted by Hans Baldung, 
whose daughter died as a nun in 
this cloister, are deserving of no- 
tice. The church music is executed 
by the nuns, and attracts on Sun- 
days and festivals, many strangers. 
The large building which lies on 
the left side of the yard, is now 
converted into an orphan house 
founded by Mr. Stultz, the celebrated 
London tailor. The sight of the 
cloister has a melancholy appear- 
ance : it is separated by a rushing 
forest rivulet from Mount Csecilia, 



which throws its shade over the 
solitary fabric. Several walks lead 
to the top of the mount ; the Bueren 
valley, with its scattered rural in- 
habitants, stretches about three- 
quarters of a league on either bank 
of the rivulet. This valley abounds 
in picturesque spots, and the lover 
of nature will find himself well 
rewarded if he wanders through it, 
at least as far as the saw -mill. At 
the village of Gaisbach the granite 
formations begin ; and to the left 
from thence a pleasant path brings 
you by the hamlet of Muehlenbach 
and the Wahlhof, to the castle of 
Neueberstein, in the valley of the 
Murg. 

Excursions. * 

Mercury Tofver. Although it 
has generally been the custom to 
commence the round of excursions 
by visiting the old castle, I beg, with 
all due deference to that recora- , 
mendation, to advise the stranger 
to begin by a visit to the column 
of Mercury standing on the top of 
the Staufenberg, upon the same 
principle that I would recommend 
a person to ascend a central emi- 
nence in a town before commenc- 
ing a peregrination through it. 
From the top of this tower (v,-hich 
has been erected out of the funds of 
the town for the accommodation of 
visitors) you will have one of the 
most lovely and extended views to 
be met with on the continent, pre- 
senting a perfect panorama, and em- 
bracing a view of the Rhine from 
beyond Strasburg to Spires, the 
range of the Vos^es, and in the 
immediate locality, the numerous 
villages in every direction, with the 
roads, by which the direct route to 
each may be easily traced ; the 
ascent to this lovely point of view 
commences at the top of the new 
promenade past the hospital church 
under an avenue, which will occupy 
from one hour and a quarter to one 



DUCHY OP BADEN. — EOTITE 24. BADEN. ENVIRONS. 



175 



hour and a half. Incased in a 
modern brick centry box looking 
place, stands an ancient stone or 
stones, on one of which are some 
characters nearly obliterated, but 
the clear sighted people have made 
them out to be: IN. H. DD. DEO. 
aiER. DVR. MER. C. PPVSO ; 
which has been translated thus: 
" In honour of the divine Imperial 
house, consecrated to the God 
Mercury by Curius the merchant, 
to acquit himself of a vow made for 
the recovery of his health." 

The little house on the top of the 
hill will supply bread, butter, eggs, 
wine cheese, and such light food; 
but those who would prefer some- 
thing more solid had better take it 
with them. There are two addi- 
tional ways to descend, but they 
are rough, and difficult to find 
without a guide, and should never 
be attempted by those either on 
horseback or on mules. 

The Old Castle. 

This is a most delightful excur- 
sion, either on horseback, ass back, 
on foot there and back, or carriage- 
hack. As a ruin it is nothing when 
compared to Heidelberg ; but the 
short distance from Baden, its ro- 
mantic situation, and the good 
cheer always to be had from before 
sunrise to sun-setting, has rendered 
it vastly popular. Pic-nics, on your 
own account, or breakfast, lunch, 
or dinners, on account of the host, 
are readily and comfortably pro- 
vided. 

For pedestrians the most plea- 
sant way is by the new flight of 
steps behind the hospital church, 
which takes you through the gar- 
den of the new palace. There are 
also foot paths through the garden 
of the Zahringer hotel, and from 
behind the town church. On gain- 
ing the carriage road, way-marks 
will direct you au vieux Chateaux; 
foot paths will occasionally be met 
with, by which the distance (though 



not the fatigue) will be curtailed; 
seats are conveniently placed at 
distances, rendering the ascent, 
quite practicable and easy, occupy- 
ing not more than hah" an hour 
from the new palace, for those per- 
sons having the use of their legs — 
lazy people, only, ride up. The 
first thatched shed with a table is a 
resting place, commonly mistaken 
for that known as Sophienruhe, 
which is much higher on the left 
as you ascend, and may more con- 
veniently be visited on descending. 
On entering the ruins, on the left is 
the restaurant, consisting of a kit- 
chen, salle a manger, and a large 
and handsome saloon, with two 
ante-chambers above ; order your 
dinner or breakfast in an hour, and 
proceed to inspect the ruins. I will 
not attempt to direct you, as ex- 
cursion parties are generally com- 
posed of the two sexes, in even 
pairs, hence it foUows that some 
would be in the cellars, others in 
the garret, whilst another pigeon 
pair might be cooing in the shrub- 
beries ; but people not in love 
will go out at the furthest 
porch, and take the right path up 
stone steps to the first projection of 
rocks, again to the right, right 
again ! down stone steps, wooden 
bridge, back again, straight for- 
ward, first to the right again, down 
stone steps, into the road to Gerns- 
bach, right again will bring you to 
the entrance to the ruins, turn 
right into the house, and recruit 
your exhausted energies ! 

Two seolian harps are placed in 
the upper and lower windows, 
whose magic tones produce a sin- 
gular effect in these ruins, espe- 
cially in the dusk of evening. This 
palace was the residence of the 
Margraves of Baden for three cen- 
turies, and was destroyed, along 
with the town of Baden, by the 
French, in 168S. In an eastern di- 
rection of the palace a row of rocks 
stretch along for about a mile, so 



176 



ROUTE 24.— BADEN-BADEN ENVIRONS. PART HI. 



that there is no doubt but that, in 
former times, they formed a com- 
pact wall with the rock upon which 
the castle stands, which has been 
split by some terrestrial convulsion 
in later times. This appears evi- 
dent from the enormous rocky 
masses, which lie scattered here in 
such quantity that they would suf- 
fice to build a city. 

The Ruins of JSbersieinburg are 
about an hour's walk from hence, 
with a castle now in ruins. Here 
was the first residence of the 
counts of Eberstein, one of the 
most powerful families, that pro- 
bably branched with the house of 
Baden, from the dukes of Zaebrin- 
gen. This demolished castle, situ- 
ated at the extremity of the vil- 
lages upon an insulated rock, com- 
mands a view of the Khine -dale. 
From hence you may descend into 
the 

Wolfssducht (Wolf's-den), which 
lies in the valley below, and is 
formed of colossal rocks. The spot 
is wildly romantic. On your return 
to Baden, the road takes you past 
the 

DeviVs Pulpit; an immense rock 
which rises from a meadow ground, 
surrounded with fir trees, whose 
broad summit runs parallel with 
the road from Baden to Gernsbach. 
Its name is derived from an ancient 
tale. 

Fremersherg. On the south decli- 
vity of the mountain which con- 
fines the valley from Baden on the 
south-west side, formerly stood a 
convent of Franciscan monks ; up 
to the year 1450, it consisted only 
of a few pious hermits. The mar- 
grave Jacob, a few years before his 
death, having lost his way while 
hunting, found shelter here for the 
night ; the hermits received him 
very friendly : in return for their 
hospitality, he built them a con- 
vent. "When, in 1826, the monks 
were reduced by death to two, the 
convent was sold, and the old build- 



ings pulled down and replaced by a 
modern and pleasantly situated inn. 
On a colossal stone cross, are these 
words : 

In Remembrance of the Convent 

Fremersberg, 

upon the Place of the High Altar, 

by Leopold, Grand Duke of Baden, 1838. 

Persons who have health and 
strength to walk should never think 
of hiring a carriage to this place. 
The distance does not exceed two 
English miles, and not very hilly. 
The tax for a carriage and two 
horses is enormously high, being no 
less than 4 fl, and drink money* 
The road lies on the left of the con- 
versation-house, following the old 
road, which is shorter than the 
new. 

The Jagdhouse, Hunting seat 
Passing out of the town by the 
road to Kadstadt, your attention 
will be arrested by a long avenue 
of poplars ; about a mile and a 
quarter distant, this very remark- 
able double row of trees will lead 
you direct to the above-named 
interesting spot, from whence there 
are extensive views, but merely 
a repetition of what you have al- 
ready seen from Mount Mercury. 
The house is built in the form of a 
cross, with adjoining pavilions, and 
a house of entertainment. There is 
a shorter road for pedestrians, 
through the wood and hamlet on 
the left on leaving Baden. The 
hire of a carriage, to go and return, 
with two horses, 3 florins, one 
horse, 2 florins. 

The Yberg is a steep conical 
mount, projecting towards the 
south-west; the distance to the 
top of the hill from Baden is about 
five miles. Take the first turning 
on the right on the road to Lich- 
tenthal. There is no record of the 
origin of this castle, of which only 
a tower remains, to the summit of 
which there is a convenient stair- 
case, as well as a good store-case. 



DUCHY OF BADEN. — ROUTE 24. BADEN-B/ADEiST. ENVIRONS. 177 



containing bread, butter, cheese, and 
other light commodities. 

The fVaterfall of Qeroldsau. 
Geroldsau is ha,lf an hour's walk 
from Lichtenthal, in a pastoral situa- 
tion, on a meadow ground, watered 
by a clear mountain brook. From 
hence the waterfall is only an hour's 
walk. The country grows wilder 
and more romantic, the mountains 
higher and more compact. At 
length you hear the roar of the 
cataract without seeing it, for it 
gushes down from its rocky bed 
into a deep chasm, and seems to 
bury itself in the bosom of the wil- 
derness. A short distance farther 
you enter another solitary valley, 
in which, next to a forest brook, a 
rural habitation stands, where, 
however, you can get no refresh- 
ment but milk and honey. In 
summer, this part of the country 
swarms with visitors, and is also 
frequently the resort of artists, for 
the purpose of sketching the fine 
landscapes. 

The Yalley of the Murg. The 
Murg, from which the valley de- 
rives its name, issues in the black 
forest, and discharges its waters 
into the Rhine, near Steinmauern, a 
league from Rastadt. This valley, 
which is ten leagues long, abounds 
in charming scenery. Entering it 
near the little town of Kuppenheim, 
the road takes you past the excel- 
lently cultivated country seat of 
the Margrave, William of Baden, 
and thence through the villages of 
Kothenfels and Gaggenau. The 
latter has a glass-house that is worth 
seeing, and an iron foundry. Ama- 
lienbergj a charming country seat. 
Behind the little town of Gernsbach 
is the castle of 

New Eberstein. The rock on 
which New Eberstein stands rises 
perpendicularly out of the Murg. 
It was rebuilt about thirty years 
ago upon the old foundations, and 
gives a tolerable idea of the castle 



of an ancient knight, of which the 
beautiful old painted window also 
reminds you. The prospect is unique, 
both in an eastern and western direc- 
tion. 

The firm of Mr. Auguste Klose, 
an old-established banker in Carls- 
ruhe, is ably represented by Mr. 
Haldenwang, in correspondence with 
the principal bankers in London, 
Paris, cfec. The Bureau is attached 
to the Holland Hotel. The highest 
price given for circular notes and 
other s.^curities. 

English Church Service takes 
place every Sunday, at a quarter 
past eleven and a quarter past three, 
in the hospital church at the end 
of the new promenade, immediately 
after the termination of the German 
Protestant service. 

The chaplain is remunerated for 
his services by voluntary contribu- 
tions, payable at the above banks, 
and by the collections made at the 
church door, out of which the 
expenses of the establishment are 
defrayed. 

Shooting. The privilege to shoot 
game in the forests in the Duchy 
of Baden is to be obtained either 
directly from the government, who 
let by public auction, usually for a 
period of ten years, certain portions 
or districts, varying from 15 florins 
a year to 600. Previous, however, 
to the party being allowed to be- 
come lessee of a district, he must 
produce testimonials as to his re- 
spectability and competency, not 
only to take care of his own life, 
but also not likely to take the life 
of another, by mistaking a man 
(married, of course,) for a buck. 
Strangers may enjoy the pleasure 
of shooting by receiving the per- 
mission of the lessee, either as a 
personal favour or for a cas"'h con- 
sideration. 

Fishing. The right of fishing is 
also let on the part of the gnxern- 
ment, in lengths of about five miles 



I 2 



178 



ROUTE 24. — BADEN-BADEN. PART III. 



along the banks of the river?;. The 
government have, hovrever, granted 
to strangers the privilege of fishing 
with hook in the Oos river from 
Lichtenthal to the village of Oos. 
To fish in the Murg river permis- 
sion is easily obtained from one of 
the lessees residing on its banks, for 
one or two florins. Fishing in the 
Rhine is allowable to all persons 
both natives and strangers, except 
in the back waters, which are al- 
ways let to fishermen. Good fish- 
ing tackle is to be purchased, but not 
in Baden. 

Baths. Several of the hotels in 
Baden are also bathing houses, 
where warm, mineral, vapour, and 
shower baths can be obtained. 
There is also a Russian vapour bath 
in the Cerf hotel, with apartments 
adjoining, fitted up with beds and 
couches for the patients after taking 
the bath. From a personal inspec- 
tion of the various establishments 
I find them to contain the following 
number: — 



Baden nineteeiijininoral and 
shower _ _ _ . 
Cerf nineteen, vapour, show- 
er, and mineral 
Cerf one, Russian vapour - 
Chevalier d'or five, mineral 
Darmstadt twenty-eight, va- 
pour, shower, and mineral 
Sun fifteen, mineral and 
shower _ _ - _ 
Zaehringen eleven, shower 
and mineral _ - - 
Stephanie, river _ - - 
No. 304, Lichtenthal-Strasse 
ten, steel - _ - - 
Lichtenthal Village, steel - 
Swimming bath - _ . 



Price, 
k. fl. kr 

12 to 24 

24 to 1 20 
1 5^0 
12 

12 to 1 20 

12 to 36 

24 to 36 
24 

24 
'.M 
18 



As a bathing establishment for 
those who may live in private 
apartments, or at hotels where 
there are not baths, I consider the 
Darmstadt the most perfect in its 
arrangements, convenience, and 
variety of price, rendering them 



suitable to all ranks of persons. 
The bath-rooms are light, neatly 
fitted up, some with marble, others 
stone, and many are neat wooden 
tubs. I should also mention that 
the greatest civility and prompt 
attendance is experienced at them 
all. 

Printed police regulations in 
French and German is, or ought to 
be, hung up in each apartment, for 
the guidance, not only of the pro- 
prietors and their servants, but also 
of the bathers themselves. 

Post-Office. — Letters are dis- 
patched for England every evening, 
at nine o'clock, by Strasbur^ and 
Paris : the postage of a single letter 
from Baden to London, is 18 kreut- 
zers ; according to the new regula- 
tions between France and England, 
correspondents sending to 13aden 
from either of these countries, may 
or not, at the option of the writer, 
pre-pay their letters. 

The time allowed for a letter to 
reach Baden from London is four 
clear days ; that is to say, a letter 
posted in London on Saturday 
night would reach Paris on Mon- 
day morning, and, forwarded that 
evening, would reach Baden on 
Wednesday, about twelve o'clock. 
Letters may be posted till nine A.M. 
Between twelve and two the post 
office is closed ; it opens at eight and 
closes at seven. 

Restaurateurs. — The lodging- 
house keepers ia Baden having a 
decided objection to cook for their* 
tenant,-^, and the occasional inclina- 
tion of most persons to dine in 
their own apartments, has led to 
the establishment of several Trai- 
teurs, who undertake for a fixed 
sum to supply dinners at any hour 
in the day, provided notice is 
given in the morning ; it cannot, 
however, be expected that after 
the meat is taken from the fire, 
cut into portions, placed in dishes. 



DUCHY OF BADEN. — ROUTE 24. BADEN-BADEN. 



179 



and carried perhaps the length of 
two or three streets, that you will 
get it very hot ; I would, there- 
fore, recommend those who may 
happen to he particular on this 
point, to dine at one of the nume- 
rous and well supplied tables 
d'hote — it is quite as cheap, better 
food, and greater -variety — to say 
nothing of the enjoyment one must 
feel at the contemplation (if you 
have time) of seeing so many per- 
sons so pleasantly and actively em- 
ployed. 

Provisions, &fc. — Saturday is the 
principal market day, commencing 
at seven o'clock in the morning ; 
on the other days in the week 
vegetables, fruit, eggs, &e. are also 
on sale. 



Meat— Beef . 
,, Mutton 
„ Pork 
Veal 

Fowls from . 

Ducks 

Geese 



krs. 

. per lb. — 11 

9 

„ 13 

8 

24 krs. to 1 fl.— 

48 „ „ 1 „- 

. . 1 .,30 



; Butter per lb 24 

Eggs the dozen . . . .12 

Bread per lb 3 

Vegetables di fruit plentiful and cheap. 
Wood is also cheap. 

Groceries, &^c. 

krs. 
Sugar . . . .per lb. 24—26 
Coffee . per lb. 36 krs. to 1 fi. 12 
Tea per lb. . 3 fl. — ,, „ 5 „ — 
Chocolate per lb. 32 „ „ 1 „ 48 
Candles, wax . . per lb. 1 ,, 12 

common . ,, — ,, 24 

Cheese, Swiss . .„--,, 24 

Gruyer . ,, — ,,32 

Parmesan . ,, 1 ,, 12 

English Porter the bottle 1 „ 30 

The market for river-fish is held 
on Wednesdays and Fridays. 

Hire of Horses, Carriages and 
Mules. 

For a Carriage with 2 horses. 1 horse. 
From Baden fl. krs. fl. krs. 

to Gernsbach, by Ifeu- 
house, and returning 
by the Chateau d'Ebex'- 
stein . . .50 30 

Ditto, by Gaggenau, and 
the Favourite . . 6 30 4 



to Forbach . 

„ Hub 

,, Jagdhaus "j 

„ Seelach J 

>, la Favourite J 

,, Fremersberg . 

„ Old Castle . 

,, Ebersteinburg 

,, Devil's Pulpit 

„ Tburg 



9 
5 



3 



6 30 
3 12 



2 



4 2 42 

4 2 20 

4 2 42 

3 30 2 

3 30 2 20 



„ Lichtenthal and back 
without stopping . 1 

Ditto, and waiting an 
hour. . . . 2 42 

To the Maison de Con- 
versation and back . 2 42 1 36 

To or from ditto . . 1 2o 54 



40 

1 48 



Fares by the Hour. 



One hour 



fl. krs. fl. krs. 
1 20 54 



Fares for Saddle Horses, 



Half a day of 4 hours 
A whole day of 8 hours 



Donkeys. 



Half a day 
A whole day 



fl. krs. 
2 20 
4 40 



fl, krs. 

1 12 

2 



The prices are fixed for carriages 
with two horses, and rise in proportion 
if one or two more horses are re- 
quired. The prices do not vary, 
even should the traveller make use 
of his own carriage. Persons who 
order a carriage to take them from 
Lichtenthal ought to pay 45 kr. 
above the usual tax, if the road does 
not lead through Lichthenthal. The 
pavement and bridge toll is paid 
apart. In return no one is expected 
to provide for the coachman and his 
horses. The saddle horses and don- 
keys are fed at the expense of the 
persons who hire them. If the car- 
riages have been kept above 6, and 
horses above 4 hours, the tax for the 
whole day must be paid. Carriages 
employed in going to church, paying 
visits, to take a drive in the Lich- 
tenthal avenue, or on the roads to 
Oos, are paid by the hour, without 
reference to the above mentioned 
general taxes. The Trinkgeld is not 
included in the above tax. 



180 



ROUTE 25. — BADEN-BADEN. WILDBAD PART III. 



Travellers wishing to proceed to 
"Wildbad, must take the train to 
Durlack, the conveyances across the 
mountains from Baden are discon- 
tinued. 



WILDBAD. 

The hot springs of Wildbad, in 
the kingdom of Wurtemberg, are 
situated in a contracted, but very 
beautiful valley of the Black Forest; 
they were discovered accidentally 
during the chase at a very distant 
period. Their wonderful efficacy 
becoming known in Germany du- 
ring the middle ages, a great num- 
ber of princes and distinguished 
persons (the only travellers in 
those times) resorted to them, in 
order to recover from disease, 
wounds, or fatigue. These springs 
have that advantage over most 
thermal waters, that their tem- 
perature is equal to that of the 
human blood. 

Wildbad offers no inducement 
for persons not requiring its baths 
to select it as a temporary resi- 
dence, being for the most part a 
poor-looking little town, or rather 
village, placed in one of the most 
retired valleys of the Black Forest, 
enclosed by steep pine-covered 
mountains, and at a considerable 
distance from any town of impor- 
tance. At one extremity of the 
street of which the town consists, 
is an open space, or square, con- 
taining the two hotels, the bath 
buildings, and public room, sup- 
ported by a colonnade. The place 
is greatly improved within the last 
two years ; new houses have been 
built, and the accommodations im- 
proved: a new Kursaal has also 
arisen, with a dining room capable 
of receiving 150 persons at the 
table d'hote. The rapidly rolling 
rivulet Ens flows behind the town ; 
the only carriage road through the 
valley being constructed on its 
banks, which, beyond the baths, 



are planted with trees for near a 
mile, forming the public prome- 
nade. The principal excursion is 
up the valley, to the village of 
Kalmbach ; there are also some 
shaded paths in the mountains 
for pedestrians or donkey riders ; 
but there are few watering places 
that do not surpass Wildbad in the 
beauty of its environs : Dr. Gran- 
ville considered its sombre and 
triste position superior to the beau- 
tiful and riant valley of Schlangen- 
bad, and the fruitful country in its 
neighbourhood, before he patronised 
Kissingen. During the greater part 
of the year, the climate is raw and 
cold ; snow not unfrequently re- 
maining on the neighbouring moun- 
tains till the middle of May ; 
whilst from the deficiency of free 
ventilation, to which narrow val- 
leys between wood-covered moun- 
tains are subject, the atmosphere 
must be considerably charged with 
moisture for some time after the 
falling of rain or heavy dew; 

EOUTE 25. 

BADEN-BADEN TO KEHL. 

Distances 4|- G., 21 E. miles. 

The direct road to Switzerland 
is through the Black Forest to 
Schaffhausen. 

KEHL. 

Inn» The Post. 

Kehl was once a strong fortress 
of the German Empire ; and has 
consequently been bombarded, de- 
stroyed, and razed by each French 
army that crossed the Rhine. 

As the French custom-house on 
the opposite side of the Rhine is 
notoriously strict, persons wishing 
merely to see Strasburg, and not 
to penetrate further into France, 
had better leave their carriages 
and baggage at Kehl, and hire a 



DUCHY OF BADEN. — ROUTE 26. BADEN-BADEN TO K.EHL. l8l 



caleche from the post master to 
take them to Strasburg, a distance 
of about four miles. 

A bridge of boats takes you 
across the Rhine to Strasburg. 
On your way thither, do not neg- 
lect to view the fine monument 
which Napoleon caused to be 
erected to the memory of General 
Desaix. It stands upon a blunt 
pyramid, and has four beautiful bas- 
relievos. 

ROUTE 26. 

KEHL TO SCHAFFHAUSEN BY THE 
BLACK FOREST. 

Distance 21^ G., 102 E. miles. 

The route from Kehl to Schaff- 
hausen lies through OfFenburg, 
Friburg, and the Hollenthal ; this 
is not the nearest way, but it is by 
far the most interesting. 



OFFENBURG. 

The best Inn is the Fortune, kept 
by Mr. Pfahler. 

This ci-devant imperial town, 
ten E. miles from Kehl, was founded 
by Oifo, from whom it took the 
name of Ofifoburg (castle of Offo). 
The position of this town com- 
mands the entrance of the valley 
of Kinzigthal. It contains four 
thousand inhabitants; and, till the 
peace of Presburg, was the resi- 
dence of the grand imperial bailiff 
of the Ortenau. The seat of the 
chapter of the cathedral of Stras- 
burg was transferred to this place 
during the first years of the revo- 
lution. The town has a very 
pleasant appearance, and is situ- 
ated at the junction of several 
great roads; the principal are the 
roads from Frankfort to Basle, and 
to the Kinzigthal, and that from 
Strasburg. which divides into se- 
veral branches. In the old Fran- 
ciscan convent is an institution for 
young ladies, which has been trans- 
ferred from Ottersweyer. The 



parish church is remarkable for its 
construction. Several monuments, 
dated in the time of the Romans, 
have been taken out of the Rhine 
within these few years, and may be 
seen in a garden in the town. 

FRIBURG. 

The best Hotel is the Zahringen, 

This ancient capital of the Breis- 
gau is situated at the head of the 
chain of mountains of the Black 
Forest ; which is the general deno- 
mination of a long ridge of hills in 
We^stern Germany, a perplexing 
labyrinth of hills, vales, woods, and 
wilds, of wondrous straits and de- 
files. The valleys are cultivated, 
and the inhabitants a hardy race 
of people ; their dialect is yet the 
primitive Teutonic language. 

Friburg was founded in 1118, by 
Berthold, third duke of Zahringen ; 
and in 1368 it submitted to the 
Austrian dominion. It contains 
about fifteen thousand inhabitants. 

The Munster is one of the most 
beautiful and perfect old cathredrals 
in Germany. The first foundations 
of it were laid by Conrad, Duke of 
Zahringen, between 1122 and 1152, 
and it was finished by Conrad I. 
Count of Friburg. A century 
later the choir was rebuilt and 
enlarged. This church is built in 
the form of a cross. The princi- 
pal door is beneath the tower, 
which rises about three hundred 
and eighty English feet in height. 
The principal objects here worthy 
of notice are: the tombs of the 
princes of Zahringen, amongst 
which is that of Berthold V ; the 
holy family, sculptured in stone : 
the pictures of the grand altar, by 
John Baldung (named Grien); curi- 
ous specimens of the old German 
school ; the treasures of the sacristy, 
and the painted windows. In the 
chapel of the University at the 
Munster are several pictures by 
Holbein; the Kauf-haus, or cus- 
tom-house, which is an old Gothic 



182 ROUTE 27. — BADEN-BADEN TO SWITZERLAND. PART III. 



building; the fountain in the fish 
market, with the monument of the 
founder of the town. The dili- 
gence passes through Friburg, for 
Schaifhausen, every evening at six 
o'clock, except Saturday, and then 
at six in the morning ; it is needless 
to say that, by starting at six in 
the evening, you may sleep through 
the infernal valley; fare, 6 fl., 
63 kr. ; the expense of posting is 
about five napoleons ; and the 
hire of a vett is sixty francs for 
four persons. 

DUige7ices in six hours from Fri- 
burg to Basle, corresponding with 
the trains leaving Mannheim at a 
quarter-past six and half-past 12. 

The Valley of Hell (Hoellethal), 
three leagues from Friburg, is of 
great attraction, and noted for the 
stupendous tower-like rocks of gra- 
nite at the defile, being the key of 
the Black Forest, leading to Eastern 
Germany; no where, in the whole 
extent of those hills, are the scenes 
of wilderness and giant rocks so 
grand in view as at the defile of 
the Valley of Hell; thus, as old as 
the world, stand sublime the works 
of nature, while generation on 
generation decay, are extinct, and 
consigned to the tomb of oblivion. 
Its scenery is exceedingly beautiful ; 
and though wild in parts, it exhi- 
bits none of those horrors which 
its name seems to imply. It was 
through this valley that Moreau 
executed his reti'eat in 1796, and 
gained by it as high a reputation 
for military talent as he would 
have acquired by a victory. 

At Sieig, about two miles and a 
half (German) from Friburg, the 
ascent commences ; extra borses are 
required to master the hill, which 
is very steep. At Leneykirch stop- 
ped to dine ; very so-so fare. From 
the hills above Bendorf the first 
view of the Alps is obtained — a 
lovely sight. The road then de- 
scends to Siuhlingen, where there 
is a good, clean, and reasonable inn, 
the Black Eagle; those who leave 



early in the morning usually sleep 
here. As a proof of their moderate 
charges, the bill for two persons 
came only to six francs and a half, 
for tea, beds, and an excellent 
breakfast. By sleeping at this 
place you are enabled to reach the 
Fall of th*^ Hhine before Schaff- 
hausen. in half an hour after 
leaving Stuhlingen you enter Swit- 
zerland, for a description of which, 
see Route 35. 

KOUTE 27. 

LONDON TO HAMBURG. 

Steam packets leave from ofi" the 
Tower or Custom-house every Wed- 
nesday and Saturday, with mails. 
Fares : chief cabin £4, fore cabin 
£3, four-wheel carriages £10, two- 
wheel ditto £6, horses £7, arid 
dogs £l each. 

Carriages and horses ^must be 
sent to Custom house quay, Lower 
Thames Street, by twelve o'clock, 
the day previous to the departure 
of the packets. The passage occu- 
pies, on an average, forty-eight 
hours - 

For prices of provisions on board, 
and a description of the river 
Thames, see page 1. About twenty- 
eight miles from the river Elbe is 
the island of 

Heligoland. It derives its name 
from Heiliges Land, i. e. holy land , 
having been dedicated to the wor- 
ship of the idol Fosete, or Forsete ; 
according to some, it is the Castum 
Nemus of Tacitus ; it is two miles 
in circumference. 

Cuxhaverij a small bathing place 
at the mouth of the Elbe, much fre- 
quented by the Hamburgers in the 
summer ; when the Elbe is frozen, 
the steam-packets land and. receive 
their passengers at this place. 

ALTONA 

Is a town in Holstein, with more 
than 3,000 houses, and 26,000 inha- 
bitants ; its nearest part adjoins 
Hamburg. 



HAMBURG. — ROUTE 27. BADEN-BADEN TO SWITZERLAND. 



183 



HAMBURG. 

The Hotels in Hamburg may be 
considered to rank equal, if not 
superior, in point of situations, size, 
and accommodation, to any in Eu- 
rope. The principal ones face the 
Alster, and are fitted up in a style 
of elegance and comfort rarely to be 
met with on the continent. 

H. Victoria. — A large and well 
furnished, comfortable and clean 
house, pleasantly situated on the 
best part of the Jirngpersteig. A 
table d'hote daily at 4 o^clock ; price, 
one mark eight schillings {\s. d^d.) ; 
the charges for apartments equally 
moderate. To prevent mistakes, the 
excellent plan of sending up the bills 
every morning is adopted at this 
house, though of course it may be 
paid at the option of the traveller. 

H, de P Europe. — This is, perhaps, 
the largest hotel in Germany. It 
contains an immense number of 
apartments of every size and for 
every use. It was not quite finished 
in November, but it was expected to 
be opened for travellers early in the 
spring, 1847. 

Hotel St. Petersburg. — Also a 
large house on the Jungpersteig. A 
table d'hote every day at 4 o'clock. 

Street's Hotel. — Not the best, but 
like many other hotels on the conti- 
nent, it has got a name for being 
very comfortable, and by those who 
never tested it. The Russi, Kren 
Prinz, &c. &c. 

The British and Union Hotelj 
near the landing place from the 
London and Hull Steamers. Persons 
anxious to find a comfortable English 
home, should put up at this house. 
The situation is not very desirable ; 
but every accommodation and civility, 
blended with moderate charges, will 
be met with. A table d'hote, i. e., a 
capital English dinner, every day at 
half-past 2. Boarders received at 
4 1 marks a day. The proprietor, Mr. 
Dunning, and his wife are English. 

Landing at Hamburg from a 



foreign country is unlike every other 
port that I know of in Europe; your 
luggage is not subject to the cere- 
mony and delay of an examination 
by custom-house officers ; passports 
are demanded, and the names entered 
in a register for that purpose. The 
accounts are kept here in marks and 
schillings, sixteen of the latter make 
a mark courant, about Is. 2§d, Eng- 
lish ; there are pieces of 4s. 3^d., and 
of 8s. 7d. The Prussian thaler goes 
(or forty schillings. 

Steamers ascend the Elbe to Mag- 
deburg, from the middle of May to 
the end of August, but since the 
opening of the railway to Berlin, few 
persons would think of going that 
tedious way. 

Hamburg. — Free Town. Tiie 
new city of Hamburg is, perhaps, 
the most pleasant and beautifully built 
'town in Germany, risen, as it were, 
out of its own ashes. In the short 
space of four years, nearly the entire 
scene of devastation, produced by 
the terrible fire of 1842, has been 
covered by upwards of 12,000 houses, 
built in a style more resembling pa- 
laces than the ordinary dwelling 
places of a trading community. The 
houses are high, chiefly built of white 
stone, or stuccoed over bricks. The 
long, wide, well paved streets, lighted 
with gas, and furnished with shops, 
which, whether ' or taste in the 
display, or in the variety and richness 
of the goods, are not inferior to the 
principal magazines in either London 
or Paris. The only new public 
establishments yet erected are the 
Bourse (Exchange) and Post Office. 

The Bourse is a spacious and con- 
venient building, placed nearly in 
the centre of the city ; the interior 
is 160 feet long by 90 feet wide, 
surrounded by a double row of arcades, 
supporting a commodious gallery, 
which is approached by four stair- 
cases ; from this gallery, doors lead 
to chambers used for various mercan- 
tile purposes. Also, the Bbrsen hall, 
frequented only by subscribers, or by 



84 



ROUTE 27. — BADEN-BADEN TO SWITZERLAND. PART Til. 



Strangers introduced by a subscriber, 
who are allowed the perusal of the 
papers, and the use of the refreshment 
and smoking rooms. At one end of the 
hall is a clock, at the other a dial, 
marking the points of the compass, 
showing the direction of the wind. 
One o'clock is the hour for business ; 
all persons entering after the bell 
ceases ringing, pay a trifle to the 
porters stationed for that purpose. 
Adjoining is the 

Stock Exchange. The large space 
behind the Bourse, is intended for the 
site of the new Rathhouse (Town 
Hall). 

Church of St. Ntchalas.— The 
first stone towards rebuilding this 
church was laid with great ceremony 
on the 24th of September, 1846. 

JSfeiv Arcade. — A handsome ar- 
cade, containing twenty-eight neat 
well supplied shops, forms a commu- 
nication between the Jungpersteig 
and the New Post Office. 

Stadt Theatre. — A large commo- 
dious building, containing three tiers 
of boxes, pit, with seats, parquet and 
gallery corresponding with the boxes. 
The stage is spacious, and the com- 
pany, particularly the operatic, is 
considered good. But, except on 
Star nights, the house generally pre- 
sents a meagre appearance. Ad- 
mission ; first tier of boxes and 
parquet (orchestra stalls) two marks 
four schillings; pit, one mark four 
schillings. Open every evening ; 
begin at half-past six. 

Net^e Hall, an der Alster, in the 
new Jungpersteig, for concerts, mu- 
sical entertainments, where coffee, 
ices, wine, punch, <fec. may be had 
during the performances ; a small 
charge is made for admission. 

Prometiades.' — The public walks 
in the neighbourhood of the Alster, 
and on the ramparts, now con\erted 
into gardens, nearly extend round 
the city, and are very delightful. The 
view from the elevated ground which 
dividesthe two Alsters is most lovely. 



In every direction seats are placed 
for the accommodation of the public. 

St. Michael's Church. — A large 
red brick building, with a black tower 
460 feet high. This church is cele- 
brated for its fine organ and singing, 
which commences on Sunday morn- 
ings about nine ; but all harmony of 
the voices, and even the tone of the 
organ, is completely drowned by the 
continual noise produced by some six 
or eight brass trumpets descending 
from the upper galleries. 

Post Office. — The postage of letters 
to and from England, via London is 
optional. With all letters sent via 
Hull 2d. must be paid. Regular 
post days direct to London, Tuesdays 
and Fridays ; via Hull four times a 
week. Letters arrive from London 
Mondays and Fridays. 

Oyster Cellars in the neighbour- 
hood of the Jungpersteig are nu- 
merous subterranean chambers, very 
tastefully and comfortably fitted up, 
where a dejeune a la forchette, or 
petit souper may be most comfortably 
enjoyed in hot weather. 

Flower Girls, a la Florence, accost 
the stranger at every turn ; but un- 
like the flower merchants in that 
famed Italian city, they are not 
disposed to open an account. 

Cigars. — Travellers fond of in- 
dulging in the weed should lay in 
a stock at Hamburg, always bearing 
in mind that there is such a person 
as a custom-house officer on the 
frontier of Prussia, and that smoking 
is strictly prohibited in Berlin. 

Money Changers. — The Messrs. 
Hess, No. 12, in the Neuerwall, six 
doors from the Jungpersteig, will be 
found respectable money changers ; 
they give the utmost value for every 
description of English and foreign 
coins. 

Reading Rooms. — Messrs.Perthes, 
Besser and Co., the respectable book- 
sellers on the Jungpersteig, have 
devoted a large suite of rooms on the 
first floor over their magazine as 



HAMBURG. — ROUTE 27. BAUEN-BADEN TO SWITZERLAND. 185 



eading rooms, on the tables in which 
are to be found several English, 
French, German and other papers, 
and the principal and other monthly- 
periodicals. The bookseller's depart- 
ment is well supplied with Guide 
books, maps, plans, <fec. Subscriptions 
to the reading rooms will be received 
for one year, six or three or one 
month, or for three days. 

Droskies. — ^Carriages drawn by 
one horse ply for hire in dififerent parts 
of the city ; they are generally neat 
and clean, with good cattle. The 
tax for the hour in the town for one 
or two persons, is one mark ; ^ hour, 
ten schillings ; after ten at night, 
one-half more is demanded. 

The Gates of the city are closed 
every night. From April 1st to the 
15th at half-past 7 ; 16th to 30th at 
8. May, 1st to 15th at half-past 8 ; 
16th to 31st at 9. June, 1st to the 
30th at half-past 9. July 1st to 15th 
half-past 9; 16th to 31st at 9. 
August 1st to 15th at half-past 8 ; 
16th to 31st at 8. September 1st to 
15th at half-past 7; 16th to 30th at 
7. October 1st to 15th at 7 ; 16th 
to 31st at 6. 

After these hours persons entering 
are charged a few schillings at first, 
but it increases rather fast as it gets 
later. 

Railway to Berlin. — The line 
ixova. Hamburg to Berlin is now open. 
Trains leave at 7 30 a.m., 12 a.m., 
and 4 30 p.m. 

Fares. — 1st class and 2nd class are 
7 thl., 15 sgr., and 5 thl. 

Fifty lbs. of luggage is allowed free 
to each passenger. N.B. The second 
class carriages are most comfort- 
able. The line of road between 
these two cities is very uninteresting, 
the country being nearly a flat sandy 
soil ; the only place of importance is 

Ludwig^s Lust, a town of about 
5,000 inhabitants, and important 
only as being the ordinary residence 
of the Grand Duke of Mecklenburg, 
Schwerin. Near Grobow, the Prus- 
sian frontier is crossed, but the 



luggage is not examined till arrival 
at the station in Berlin. 

BERLIN. 

Hotels. H. de Prussie. This is 
decidedly the best hotel in Berlin ; it 
is most agreeably situated opposite the 
Palace and Museum, and adjoining 
the " unter den Linden;" the rooms 
are large, carpeted and furnished 
with every English comfort, and the 
entire establishment is admirably 
conducted by Mr. Jagor, the pro- 
prietor, who speaks English remark- 
ably well, and uses his best efforts to 
make all his guests, particularly his 
English visitors, quite at home. 
There is an excellent table d'hote at 
four o'clock every day, except Sun- 
days, when the hour is two. The 
plan of sending the bill every morning, 
made out in English, French, or 
German, as the case may be, has 
been adopted at this house ; but of 
course payment is made at the plea- 
sure or convenience of the traveller. 

The St. Petersburg, MineharVs, 
H. de Rom, the Nord^ and the 
British, but very un-English. 

Berlin, the capital of Prussia and 
the residence of the King, contains 
a population of 360,000 inhabitants, 
and is considered one of the finest 
cities in Germany. The public 
buildings are noble, the streets long 
and wide, but considerably too level 
to allow it to be as sweet as it is 
pretty. The principal buildings, all 
at least worthy the attention of 
strangers, are within a short distance 
of each other. 

Under the general name of Berlin 
are comprehended five towns and 
four suburbs; namely, 1. Berlin, 
properly so called; 2. Cologne; 3. 
Frederick's Island ; 4. Dorothea's, or 
the New Town ; 5. Frederic's Town. 
The suburbs have severally the 
names of the King's, the Spandau, 
and the Stralau suburb, and Louisa 
Town. The circumference of the 
whole is two and one-third German, 
or ten eleven-fifteenths English miles. 



186 ROUTE 27. — BADEN-BADEN TO SWITZERLAND. PART III. 



1. Berlin, properly so called, con- 
tains the Post-house, the Town- 
house, the Knights' Academy ; the 
Pont-neuf leads to the Royal Pa- 
lace. Grey Friars, the Holy Ghost 
Hospital, Frederick's Hospital, the 
Joachimthal Gymnasium, the Clinical 
Institute, the House of the States, 
the New Market, the Guard-house, 
the Great Royal Magazine, St. 
Nicolas Church, the Church ot Our 
Lady, with the tomb of Kanitz ; the 
Garrison Church, with four pictures 
by Eiod^, the French Church, the 
Calvinistic parish Church, and the 
new Post-office. 

The Royal Bridge conducts to the 
King's suburb, which contains 500 
houses and a great number of gar- 
dens ; the Spandau bridge and the 
new Frederic bridge conduct us to 
the Spandau suburb, which contains 
the pleasure house and garden of 
Montbijou, the Veterinary College, 
the establishment called La Charite, 
the Mint, the Art'llery Barracks, 
and the Hotel of Invalids. The 
Stralau suburb contains a botanical 
garden. 

2. Cologne on the Spree contains 
the Long Bridge, with the statue of 
the Grand Elector, the Pleasure 
Garden or Parade, with a statue of 
Prince Leopold of Dessau, by 
Schadow, in white Carara marble. 

This district likewise contains the 
Cathedral, with the tombs of the 
Royal family, the Exchange, the 
Royal Stables, and a great salt fac- 
tory. 

3. Frederick's Island contains the 
Bank, the French Church, the Ex- 
cise-office, the French Gymnasium, 
the Palace of the Prince of Prussia, 
which is now the King's residence ; 
the Arsenal, and a fine cannon 
foundry, with the statue of Fre- 
derick I. 

4. Dorothy's Town, or the New 
Town, contains 400 houses ; the 
Palace of Prince Henry of Prussia, 
now occupied by the University, the 
Opera-house, the King's Library, 



the street called Unter den Linden, 
which is 4,000 Rhenish feet long, 
and 160 broad ; the Brandenburg 
Gate, and the Thiergarten, which is 
one of the finest parks, if not the 
finest, in Europe. 

5. Frederick's Town is the hand- 
somest part of Berlin, and contains 
Gendarmes square, Leipsic street, 
Frederick street, the Polymathic 
school, William Square, with the 
statues of Schwerin, Winterfeld^ 
Keith, Ziethen, and Seidlitz, in 
marble ; the new Catholic Church, 
called St. Hedwig, the Theatre, the 
new Gate of Potsdam, the new 
Bridge, the statue of Bliich^T, and 
the King's Town Theatre, which has 
been lately built, and is very much 
frequented. This district likewise 
contains a new university, five gym- 
nasia, the institution for the deaf anci 
dumb, the academy of sciences, the 
academy of arts and mechanical 
sciences, an excellent veterinary 
school, and a medico -chirurgicai 
college. In the hall of the Exchange 
there is a reading-room, which was 
frequented by 1,300 foreigners in the 
first year of its establishment; and, 
besides a considerable collection of 
books, has a cabinet of medals and 
of natural history. 

DrosJcies ply for hire in the prin- 
cipal streets. Fares for one or two 
persons; 20 minutes, 5 sgr. ;21 to 
35 minutes, 7 sgr. 6 pf. ; 36 to 50 
minutes, 10 sgr. ; 51 to 70 minutes, 
15 sgr. ; for every succeeding hour, 
15 sgr. Every person is presented 
by the driver with a printed ticket, 
bearing his number, and the date of 
the month ; an excellent regula- 
tion. 

Days on which the principal ob- 
jects of interest are open to strangers. 
A valet de place charges one thaler 
the day. 

Monday. — Fortification Model 
House, 9 till 2 ; Picture and Statuary, 
and Gems and Medals, 10 till 4 ; 
Gallery in the Museum, summer, 10 
till 4: winter, 10 till 3; Faust's 



PRUSSIA. — ROUTE 27. BERLIN. 



*186 



Winter Garden, 7 till 10, evening 
concert. 

Tuesday. — Kunst-Kamer, in the 
Palace, 10 till 4 ; Museum of Natural 
History in the University, 12 till 2, 
by tickets ; Deaf and Dumb Institu- 
tion, 10 till 2 ; Mineral Cabinet in 
XhQ Museum, 12 till 2. 

Wednesday. — Kunst-Kamer, 10 
till 4 ; Gems, Medals, &c,, 30 till 4 ; 
Anatomical Museum, 4 till 6; Li- 
brary, 10 till 12 ; Arsenal, by tickets, 
2 till 4. 

Thursday. — Models of Fortifica- 
tions, 9 till 2 ; Egyptian Museum, 
10 till 4, in mon bijou 5 Kunst-Kamer, 
10 till 4; Picture Gallery, of Heer 
Wagner, 10 to 1 . 

Friday. — Kunst-Kamer, 10 till 4 ; 
Gems, Medals, Vases, in Museum, 
10 till 4 ; Mineral Cabinet, 12 till 2 ; 
Zoological Museum, in University, 
12 till 2. 

Saturday, — AnditovalcdX Museum, 
4 till 6, by tickets ; Library, Arsenal, 
by tickets, 2 till 4. 

Daily. — Military music at 11 at 
the Guard House ; Reading Room 
in the Library, 9 till 4; Exchange, 
Diorama, Picture and Antique Gal 
lery, in the Museum ; Porcelain 
Manufactory ; Iron Works ; Univer- 
sity and Botanic Garden : but stran- 
gers, through the medium of the 
valet de place, may visit the chief 
places in Berlin on other days be- 
sides those set apart for visitors, by 
giving money to the door-keepers. 

The Royal Palace^ a magnificent 
structure of free-stone, begun by 
Frederick I. in 1699 ; bat as it has 
been the workmanship of several 
architects, the fronts are not exactly 
regular. It consists of four stories, 
with large apartments ; the entrance 
from the Linden side is ornamented 
by two bronze horses given by the 
Emperor of Russia. The apartments 
of this Palace are really worth seeing ; 
they are nearly thirty in number, 
and occupy the first and second floor ; 
they should be visited on the same 
morning ; but after seeing the Kunst- 



Kamer, which occupies the third tioor 
of the same building, until the new 
wing of the Museum is finished. 
Second floor ante-room contains full 
length portraits of Napoleon and 
Maria Louisa, Blucher pointing to 
the hat of Napoleon, 2nd Room. 
Louis XIY., and several kings and 
emperors. 3rd. Frederick as Crown 
Prince. 4th and 5th. Costly tapestry. 
6th. Throne Room. Large silver 
tankards, massive silver gilt plate ; 
the orchestra, formerly of silver, is 
now only plated metal j the original 
was broken up to assist in carrying 
on the war in 1812 — 13 ; a large 
shield of gold and silver. 7th. Black 
Eagle Room. A vase of Russian 
porcelain, given by the emperor, a 
tankard, with the arms of the nobility 
who subscribed for it ; cost 1500 
thalers. The chairs are of tortoise- 
shell, inlaid with a metal resembling 
gold. 8th. This room has splendid 
gilt doors, and contains portraits of 
Queen Victoria and the Emperor 
Alexander. 9th. Palace Chapel, 
where the royal marriages take place. 
10th. Picture Gallery, 196 feet long, 
containing works by Jordaens, Sny- 
dens, Rubens, Vandyk, &c. &c. 
11th. Napoleon crossing St. Bernard, 
by David. 12th. The Ball Room. 
Two candelabras, given by the Em- 
peror Nicholas . The doors are covered 
with silver ornaments ; a beautiful 
marble figure of Victory by Ranch. 
Return to the chapel and descend to 
the first fioor. 1st room contains a 
marble statue of Hero and Leander. 
2nd. Collection of pictures. 3rd. 
Beautiful mosiac floor — the ceiling 
similar. 4th. Portraits 5th. Mosaic 
floor, the bed room of Napoleon ; the 
clock in this apartment requires 
winding only once a year. 6th. 
Beautiful Secretaire, cost 14,000 
thalers. 7th. Portraits. 8th. Pic- 
tures. 11th. Time-piece taken from 
Napoleon, with the names of battles 
on it. 12th. Dining Room, lined 
with glass — the mosaic floor exqui- 
site. 14th, State Room. Marble 



18G* 



ROUTE 27. — BERLIN. PART III. 



figure of Time, large crystal chande- 
lier, cost 80,000 thalers. i5th. 
Paintings by Rubens and Vandyk; 
the custode expects a thaler for a 
small party. Entrance at 12. 

Kunst-Kamer. — To see this his- 
torical and interesting museum, it is 
necessary to apply for tickets some 
days before you require them, as only 
a limited number are issued for each 
day, when it is open. A couple of 
10 gros. pieces will induce the cas- 
tellan to bring out from his reserved 
tickets one for any day you may 
require ; he resides under the museum, 
left side looking towards the front, 
second door. The entrance to the 
collection is by entrance No. 5, 
right hand staircase — ascend to the 
top. The first objects shown are 
articles illustrative of the manners and 
customs of different savage parts and 
nations of the world : models of the 
mine of Frieburg. The Historical 
Collection embraces many national 
relics appertaining to Frederick the 
Great. The principal are the clothes 
he wore a short time previous to his 
death ; the orders worn by Napoleon, 
taken after the battle of Waterloo ; 
articles elaborately carved in amber, 
wood and ivory, <fec. A catalogue 
of the entire collection may be had 
of the custode, who also expects a 
gratuity. 

Museum. — This modern erection 
is -destined, when completed, to re- 
ceive the various collections of arts 
and sciences, distributed in various 
places at the present time; it contains 
the Picture Gallery, statuary, gems, 
vases, and medals. The front of the 
building faces the palace ; the form 
of the building is a quadrangle 276 
feet long, and 179 wide; a wide 
flight of steps leads to the portico, 
the walls of which are being painted 
with frescoes, from designs by 
ychinckl ; the door in front opens 
into a vestibule adorned with antique 
figures ; this leads to the Gallery of 
Sculpture. The stairs on either side 
under the portico lead to the Picture 



Gallery ; the corners are to be orna- 
mented by two groups in bronze, that 
already placed represents an Amazon 
on horseback attacked by a tiger; 
the other will represent a warrioi* 
attacked by a lion. The attendants 
are strictly prohibited from demand- 
ing or even receiving any gratuity 
from visitors. 

The Egyptian Museum, in Mont- 
bijou, the Mineral Museum, the 
Zoological Museum, the Anatomical 
Museum, are in the University ; all 
worthy a visit. 

Churches. — The religious edifices 
in Berlin are not remarkable for 
interior decoration or ornament. The 
principal churches are the Dom, 
(cathedral), between the Palace and 
Bourse ; JDorotheen Church ; the 
Trinity ; the Garrison Church, where 
good music is heard ; the Jews' 
Synagogue, and English Church; 
sevice is performed every Sunday 
morning at eleven, at 18, Magazine 
Strass, by the Rev. R. Biilson. 

Unter den Linden, named from a 
double avenue of lime trees, which 
form a shady walk in its centre, while 
on each side of it runs a carriage 
road. It is the principal and most 
frequented street in Berlin ; it is ter- 
minated by the magnilicent Branden- 
burg Gate. 

The Brandenburg Gate is built 
after the model of the Propylgsura at 
Athens. The car of victory on the 
top was carried to Paris as a trophy 
by Napoleon, but it was recovered 
by the Prussians after the battle of 
Waterloo. 

Opposite the Grand Guardhouse 
(Haupt-wache), also under the Lin- 
den, stands the bronze statue of 
Blucher, a spirited figure, well exe- 
cuted ; the pedestal is decorated with 
good bas-reliefs. Facing him, on 
each side of the Guardhouse, are the 
marble statues of Bulow vonDenne- 
witz and of General Scharnhorst. 
An equestrian statue of Peter the 
Great is to be placed under the 
Linden. 



PRUSSIA. — ROUTE 37- POTSDAM. 



*186 



The Arsenal (Zeughaus). — Above 
the windows round the inner court are 
twenty-two masks, admirably carved 
in stone, representing the human face 
in the agonies of death. On the 
ground-floor are cannon and artillery 
of various kinds, such as tyvo leather 
guns, used by the great Gustavus in 
the thirty years' war ; a field-piece 
named die Schone Taube (beautiful 
dove); a damasked cannon; two 
Turkish pieces. On the first floor 
are ranged 60,000 stand of arms. 
These apartments form a kind of 
military museum. Specimens of the 
arms and accoutrements used in every 
army in Europe. There are fire-arms, 
from those used at the first invention 
of gunpowder, to the most perfect 
made in the present day. Many 
ancient weapons and suits of armour. 
Against the walls and pillars are 
hung nearly 1000 stand of colours, 
chiefly French, and bearing the dates 
and emblems of the Revolution, cap- 
tured bv the Prussians in Paris, 
1815. 

The IronFounclr^ (Eisengiesserie), 
outside of the Oranienburg-gate. A 
great variety of articles, as busts, 
statues, bas-reliefs, copies of pictures, 
monumental slabs, joists, beams, and 
rafters for houses, and even bells, are 
cast here. 

The Anatomical Museum is par- 
ticularly rich in preparations of 
human and comparative anatomy. 
The Botanic Garden, belonging to 
the University, outside of the town, 
is described further on. 

The Egyptian Museum is in a 
wing of the palace of Montbijou. The 
collection of Egyptian antiquities is, 
perhaps, the most curious in Europe. 

In addition to mummies, scarabgei, 
statues of Apis, coins, there exists 
here a collection of arms, implements 
used in various arts, utensils of all 
sorts, <fec., illustrative of the whole 
household economy of the Egyptian 
nation, as it existed some thousand 
years ago, all in a wonderful state of 
preservation. 



Theatres. — There are three large 
theatres in Berlin ; the Opera House, 
Schauspielhaus and Konigstadtische. 
The new Opera House is perhaps the 
most splendid, and at the same time, 
most comfortable theatre in Europe. 
The form is half oval, without the 
proscenium boxes, nine on each side, 
which extend considerably beyond 
the orchestra. There are three tiers 
of boxes, and a gallery to correspond. 
The royal box occupies a great por- 
tion of the first and second tiers ; a 
massive gilt chandelier is suspended 
from the ceiling, in the compartments 
of which are beautifully painted 
illustrations of the drama, and por- 
traits of the most celebrated com- 
posers ; the fronts of the boxes are 
most lavishly decorated with gold on 
a blue ground, relieved by white 
figures between the panels ; a portion 
of the pit is occupied as the parquet, 
with large and commodious numbered 
seats. Operas, comedies, and ballets 
are performed here. Places should 
be taken in the morning; they are 
issued at the bureau of the Shaus- 
pielhaus between nine and two. Ad- 
mission to the strangers' loge, 1 
thaler 10 sgrs.; balcony and first 
tier, 1 thaler ; parquet and parquet 
loges, 1 thaler; parterre and second 
boxes, 15 sgrs. ; on particular occa- 
sions the prices are augmented. 

Schauspielhaus, in the Place des 
Gens d'Arms, is a large building 
standing between two churches ; the 
performances are German and French 
alternately. The stage is on the 
second floor of the building, so that 
it is necessary to go up stairs even 
into the pit; adjoining it, is the 
Concert Room, much admired for its 
architectural proportions, and the 
taste of its decorations. Besides 
Concerts, a certain number of Sub- 
scription Balls take place here in 
winter. The king and royal family 
are often present. 

Konigstadtisches (King's city) 
Theatre, is situated at the extremity 
of Konig's Strass, in Alexander 



18G' 



ROUTE 27. — POTSDAM. PART III. 



Place. The interior contains two 
tiers of boxes, parquet and parterre, 
and when full will hold about 1500 
persons. The performances com- 
mence at six. The prices are not 
so high as at the other two theatres. 
Parquet, 25 grs. ; pit, (no seats), 20 
gros. Open every night. 

Concerts in summer. The best 
concerts tate place in Krolls Gar- 
dens outside the Brandenburg Gate ; 
They are particularly attractive on 
Sundays and Fete days. The grand 
Salle is one of the finest rooms, per- 
haps, in Europe. The admission is 
usually 10 sgrs. Every description 
of refreshment may be had. 

Fmisfs Whiter Garden. — This is 
a similar place of amusement ; it is 
situated near the the KonigsbrUck. 
The principal salle is 100 feet long ; 
the sides entirely of glass. 

Diorarua, Georgenstrasse, No. 12, 
is well worth a visit ; it is open from 
11 till 2. Admission, 10 sgrs. 

Post Office^'^o. 60,K6nigsstrasse. 
Open from 8 a.m. till S^p.m. Entering 
by the grand entrance, the post res- 
tante (Brief aus gabe) is in the third 
court ; the office for posting letters 
is on the right, same court. 

Mestaurards. — The principal are 
the Salle de Jajor, the National and 
Royal. 

Promenade. — The Thurgarden, 
outside the Brandenburg Gate. 

EXCURSION TO POTSDAM. 

Railroad, 34 German miles. 

Trains leave Berlin seven times a 
day for Potsdam, in 35 minutes. 
Fares, 1st Class, 20 sgr.; 2n(l 
Class, 15 sgr. ; 3rd Class, 10 sgr. 

Potsdam, agreeably situated on a 
branch of the Spree, contains 30^000 
inhabitants, is of a considerable ex- 
tent, the buildings neat and regular, 
and the streets as straight as a line, 
planted with trees, and canals cut in 
them after the manner of Holland. 
The best plan to see the neighbour- 
hood of Potsdam, is to hire a Drosch- 



kie (one or two horses the same price), 
you will find ready at the station. 
The usual charge for driving a party 
one or four persons, first to Charlotten- 
hof, not Charlottenburg, then to the 
New Palace, and thence to Sans 
Souei (where you should discharge the 
carriage and walk back to the station 
after seeing the palace and gardens), 
1 thaler, 20 sgr- or 2 thalers. 

Charlotten hof\^ a miniatute erec- 
tion, built in imitation of a Pompeian 
dwelling, surrounded by a beautifully 
laid-out garden, ornamented with 
statues, several of which were 
brought from Pompeii. A pleasant 
drive will bring you to the 

New or Marble Palace, which is 
well worth visiting, if only to see the 
Shell G rotto Hall. The Marble Hall 
is a splendid room 160 feet long, 100 
feet wide, and 50 feet high ; to see 
it the custode expects a thaler from 
a party. 

The Russian Village should be 
visited ; also, and lastly, 

Sans Souci. — Close to it stands 
the celebrated mill which gave Free- 
leneck as much trouble and annoyance 
as the blacksmith's shop in Brighton 
did George the Fourth. The gardens 
are filled with fountain statues ; at 
the end of the terrace, behind the 
statue of Venus and Cupid, are the 
graves of eleven dogs and the favour- 
ite horse of Frederick. The apart- 
ments in the little palace seem to 
have been intended as a summer 
house and library to the palace of 
Potsdam. They stand upon an emi- 
nence, and command an agreeable 
view of the town, and also of a small 
branch of the Spree, which runs by 
the side of the garden. They have 
been restored (although many articles 
of furniture used by the Great Fre- 
derick still remain) by the present 
king, who spends much of his time 
here during the summer. From the 
house to the lower part of the garden, 
is a descent of about 120 yards, by 
six several ranges of store steps, and 
as many terraces. The garden is 



PRUSSIA.— -ROTTrE 29. BERLIN TO LEIPSIC. 



187 



the east end of it is terminated by 
an Egyptian pyramid, embellished 
with hieroglyphics. 

There are several other houses 
which the late king had in the 
neighbourhood of Berlin, ss Kap- 
put^ Kleniken, Schoonhaiisen^ Fre- 
dericksdaal, Oranjebaum; but as 
they have been much neglected for 
some years, they hardly deserve a 
traveller's notice. 

Another interesting excursion may 
be [made to Pfauen-Insel (Peacock 
Island), about four English miles 
from Potsdam. 

HOXJTE 29. RAILROAD. 

BERLIN TO COTHEN, HALLE, AND 





LEIPSIC. 




29 German 


, or 133 Eng 


lish miles. 


FAKES. 






in Silver Gros 


. 




1st CI. ~ 2d CI. 


Stations 


Distances 


30 — 20 


Trebbin . 


. H. 


40 — 27 


Lukenwald . 


. 6^ 


65 — 35 


Juterbogk 


. a- 


70 — 45 


Lahna . 


. 11 


80 — 52 


Wittenberg 


. i2i 


90 — 60 


Koswig . 


. 14i 


100 — 68 


Roslau . 


. 16i 


105 — 70 


Dessau . 


. ]7i 


120 — 80 


Cothen . 


. 20 


149 — 99 


Halle . 


. 25 


165 — 110 


Leipsic . 


. 29 


140 — 95 


Magdeburg 


. 27 



Trains leave Berlin for Leipsic at 
half-past seven in the morning, and 
at a quarter-past one, occupying 
seven hours, and twice to Magdeburg 
in six hours. To Cothen only four 
times a day. 

Transport of carriages from Ber- 
lin to Magdeburg, 25 thlrs,; to 
Halle, 22§; to Leipsic, 27 thlrs. 

Terminus, the new Anhalt gate. 
On quitting Berlin, the Kreutzberg 
is passed ; soon after the tower of 
Teltow is seen on the Gross Beeren 
station. An obelisk here comme- 
morates the victory of 1813, gained 
by the Prussians over the French. 
Trebbin station. 



Luckenwald, a town of 5,000 
inhabitants, famed for its manufac- 
ture of cloth. 

Near the convent of Zinna, the 
monk Tetzel was waylaid and robbed 
of the money he had obtained by 
selling indulgences. 

Juterbogk town is one mile dis- 
tant from the railroad. 

Coaches go from this station to 
Dresden in one day. 

At Dennewitz there is another 
battle-field where the Prussians were 
successful (1813). 

Wittenburg, interesting as con- 
taining many relics of Luther. 

The railway, proceeding along the 
right bank of the Elbe, enters the 
territory of Anhalt Bernburg. 

On the opposite bank of the Elbe 
is Worlitz, famed for its parks and 
gardens, which belong to the Prince 
of Anhalt-Dessau, 



DESSAU 

Is the capital of the dominions of 
the Duke of Anhalt-Dressan ; it is 
situated in the beautiful district 
watered by the Muldah, which falls 
into the Elbe at no great distance 
from the town. Dessau is seven 
German miles from Leipsic, and 
contains 900 houses, with 12,000 
inhabitants. There are about 800 
Jews here, who carry on a consider- 
able trade. 

Among the pullic buildings and 
other objects of attraction, the 
following deserve mention : the 
Ducal Chateau ; with collections of 
objects of art, pleasure gardens, 
and a handsome church ; the 
government house ; the stables 
and riding house; the theatre and 
concert room. 

The vicinity of Dessau has been 
converted into gardens, which form 
its chief ornaments : these are 
called Georgengarten^ Louisium, 
and Sieglitzer Bergs ; and Worlifz, 
six miles from Dessau, 



188 



ROUTE 29. — HALLE. LEIPSIC. 



COTHEN. 

The station house, built by the 
Duke of Cothen, includes a re- 
freshment room, and a gaming 
house. 

This is a central station on the 
railroad, where the lines from Berlin, 
Magdeburg, and Leipsic meet. 
Trains are changed, and a stoppage 
of half an hour takes place. 

Cothen, residence of the Duke of 
Anhalt, has 750 houses, with 6,000 
inhabitants. The most remarkable 
objects are: the new chateau, with 
a collection of birds, the old con- 
taining a saloon recently built ; a 
riding house; a garden ; a collection 
of books and curiosities, a collection 
of antiquities, dug up in the en- 
virons ; some painted glass in the 
Caivinistic church ; and several 
charitable institutions. 

HALLE. 

hi7is. Kronprinz, Stadt Zilrich- 
Kailway Hotel^ new. 

Balle is situated on the Saale ; it 
is composed of three towns and live 
suburbs, and contains 27,000 inha- 
bitants, including the university. 
Among the monuments of Gothic 
architecture are : St. Mary's church, 
St. Ulric's, St. Maurice's, and the 
cathedral, with several pictures of 
the old German school ; the old town 
house, the Red tower, and the ruins 
of Moritzberg. 

In front of the Orphan House is 
Frank-square, ornamented with the 
monument of the founder, executed 
by Rauch of Berlin. 

The salt works at this place pro- 
duce 223,560 cwt of salt annually. 
Some saline baths have been lately 
established, and are much used; 
there is also a mineral spring here. 
The amusements of Halle consist 
of the theatre, balls, concerts, re- 
sources, an assembly every Sunday 
evening at the Hereditary Prince, 
several musical societies, &c. 



In the vicinity are Giebichenstein, 
with its promenades close to the 
ruins of the antique fort on a lofty 
rock ; the villages of Trotha and 
Seeben ; Mount Eeil, Mount St. 
Peter, with the ruins of a convent, 
and a prospect as far as Magdeburg 
and the E-ocken ; the villages of 
Beideburg and Deiskau ; the Breihan 
tavern on the Elster ; the island of 
Crows ; Passendorf ; the vineyards ; 
Krollwitz Heath, situated along the 
mountains opposite Giebichenstein; 
Lauchstadt; Merseburg, with its 
cathedral, 900 years old ; Dressau 
and Worlitz ; the three monuments 
erected to those who fell in the 
battle of Leipsic. 

LEIPSIC. 

Iims. Hotel de Baviere, very 
good and moderate ; this house con- 
tains fifteen saloons, and makes up 
100 beds. The charges are ; saloons, 
five to six francs ; for beds, two and 
three francs ; breakfast, one franc ; 
dinner at the table d'hote, at one 
o'clock, two francs ; at four, three 
francs. Handsome carriages be- 
longing to the hotel wait the arrival 
of the trains. Saxe, re-building. 
H. du Rhine. Stadt Rom. 

Leipsic is situated in a pleasant 
fruitful plain, at the meeting of three 
small rivers, viz ; the Elster, the 
Pleissa, and the Parda, about forty 
miles north-west of Dresden. It is 
supposed by some to have been built 
by the Vandals, about the year 700, 
and to have derived its name from 
Lipzk, a lime tree, with which this 
country cnce abounded. The town 
is of so small a circumference, that 
one may easily walk round it in the 
space of an hour; but to remedy 
this inconvenience, they build their 
houses very lofty of stone or brick, 
six or seven stories high. 

There are 50,000 inhabitants. 
The people of this town have intro- 
duced a new kind of luxury even in 
their devotion : one of the principal 



SAXONY. — ROUTE 29. LEIPSIC. 



189 



churches has a number of chapels 
projected about six feet from the 
main wall, through which they com- 
municate with the church, each 
chapel having its distinct door with- 
out. Some of the wealthy citizens 
have bestowed on these auxiliary 
buildings 1,500 or 2,000 dollars. 

The university in this city, 
founded in 1409, is very much fre- 
quented by foreigners. Tht-y have 
four colleges and twenty-four pro- 
fessors ; most of the students lodge 
in the town, and are not obliged 
to reside within the wails of the 
college. 

Leipsic is remarkable for its great 
commerce, which is carried on chiefly 
in fair time. Jt is surprising how ]t 
ever attained to be so trading a town, 
considering it is not situated on any 
navigable river ; and yet it has been 
preferred in a most unaccountable 
manner to so many other places that 
are conveniently situated on the 
Elbe. It is true Magdeburg, which 
is situated on the Elbe, is only four- 
teen German miles and a half off; 
and merchandise is brought from 
Hamburg by that channel. They 
have three great fairs here every 
year : the first, which is that of the 
new year, begins on the first day of 
the new year, except when New 
Year's day falls on a Sunday, then 
the fair begins on the Monday follow- 
ing. The second fair, which they 
call Easter fair, begins the third 
Monday after Easter. The third 
fair of Michaelmas begins the first 
Sunday after St. Michael's day ; 
and if that falls on a Sunday, it 
begins on the following Sunday. 

From the top of the Observatory a 
distinct view of the battle-field may 
be seen through a glass and every 
object explained by the keeper, who 
expects five gros from each person. 

There is a new post office on a 
very large scale. 

To enjoy a cigar and glass of 
punch, visit the European Borsen 
Hall. 



The Theatre is small, with two 
tiers of balcony boxes ; best places, 
1 thaler; porquet, 20 s. gros; pit, 
15 s. gros ; begin at half-past six. 

Auerbacli's Cellar is an object 
of curiosity, as the scene of Dr. 
Faustus' exploits. Gothe is also 
said to have been a visitor to this 
dismal cave. 

Accounts are kept here in thalers 
and groschen, of which thirty make 
a thaler. The Leipsic almanack 
contains the names and addresses of 
more than 800 foreign merchants 
who attend the fairs, without in- 
cluding from 260 to 290 booksellers, 
for most of the books printed in 
Germany are either sold or exchanged 
at Leipsic. It has been calculated 
that books to the amount of 500,000 
rix dollars are sold here annually. 
Ertvii ons, — The gardeners of Leipsic 
are reckoned the best in Germany, 
and value themsehes upon forcing the 
products of nature more early than 
others. Their asparagus is delicious, 
and extraordinary large. All round 
about the town there are neighbour- 
ing villages, where the inhabitants 
amuse themselves with drinking and 
dancing on Sundays and festivals. 
There is also a remarkable wood in 
this neighbourhood called Rcsendahl, 
which signifies the vale of roses. It 
consists of fourteen walks, all agree- 
ably diversified, with a great meadow 
in the middle, and each walk has a 
noble point of view. In one of the 
suburbs there is a large church-yard, 
where every burgher can raise what 
monument or tombstone he pleases ; 
and some of them are remaikable for 
the odd epitaphs upon them. Tra- 
vellers should pay a visit to the field 
of battle, where the French array 
was completely defeated in 1813, 
when numbers perished, owing to 
their retreat being cut off by Napo- 
leon, who, in order to save himself, 
blew up the bridge over the Elster, 
leaving no passage for the army. 
This event, whether designed or ac- 
cidenta], caused the death of Prince 



190 



ROUTE 30. — LEIPSIC TO DRESDEN. 



Poniatowslcy, and many thousands 
of less note. The spot where he was 
drowned is situated in M. Gerhard's 
(formerly Reichenbach's) Garden^ 
just beyond the walls, and is marked 
by a small and humble stone or monu- 
ment close to the margin of the Elster. 
Five s. gros is demanded for entering 
the garden. They should also see 
the field of Breitenfeld, three quar- 
ters of a league from Leipsie, be- 
tween the great road to Magdeburg 
and Dessau, celebrated for the defeat 
of Tilley, in the thirty years' war ; 
and the field of battle of Lutzen, 
remarkable for the victory gained by 
the Frraich over the allies in 1813, 
and the death of the great Gustavus 
Adolphus. 

EOUTE 30. RAILEOAD. 

LEIPSIC TO DRESDEN. 

15§ German, or 71^ English miles. 

Trains leave Leipsie for Dresden 
four times a day, from the 15th of 
March to the 15th of October, at 
six. ten, four, and half-past six ; the 
fast trains in three hours, the heavy 
trains in five hours. 



Fares 




in G. G]-os. 




1st CI. 2ndCl. Stations 


Distances 


20 — 15 Wurzen . 


• 3i 


35 — 26 Lupper-Dahlen 


. 6| 


42 — 32 Oschatz . 


7 


54 41 Riesa 


9 


70 62 Pristewitz 


. lU 


81 60 Niederau. 


. isl 


90 68 Dresden . 


• lo.i 


Carriages vaXh two wheels. 


Thaler lOJ 


four 


. 13 



Immediately after quitting Leipsie 
the railroad crosses part of the field 
oi battle, which took place between 
the crown prince of Sweden and Mar- 
shal Ney, near the village of Pauns- 
dorf, on the left. 

Between Leipsie and VV"urzen 
some parts of the road is sandy and 
disagreeable. The land produces 
grain. There are several small 
Towcs and villages. 



Wurzen is a small town on the 
Mulda, which was formerly subject 
to its own counts. Here is a hand- 
some church. The inhabitants are 
famous for brewing good beer, of 
which they send a very large quan- 
tity to Leipsie. 

Oschatz^ a small town situate on 
the little river Colnitz. 

St. Huberisburg, a hunting seat, 
built at the entrance of a forest, 
where there are several roads cut. 
The building is large, but not mag-'^ 
nificent; and the fine apartments, 
which were lined with green damask 
laced with gold, are now stored with 
potter's ware. 

Meissen J which lies on the right 
from the railroad, once the capital 
of Misnia, is situate on the river 
Elbe, within fourteen miles of 
Dresden. It was built by the 
Emperor Henry I., and has some 
handsome houses. There is an old 
palace belonging to the elector of 
Saxony, situated on the top of a hill, 
and built in the form of a castle ; 
it commands a fine view, but is now a 
porcelain manufactory. The cathe- 
dral is worth seeing, having several 
handsome monuments, and among 
the rest, those of the electoral 
family. The castle bridge is ver}'- 
remarkable, being as higli as the 
steeple of the great church, which 
is of a very great height. 

Meissen is remarkable for its ma- 
nufacture of porcelain, which goes 
by the name of Dresden. 

The manufacture of porcelain sur- 
passes that of China, because of the 
beauty of the paintings, in which 
there is great order and proportion. 
The gold is used with great taste, 
and the painters are such as excel 
in their profession. As for the in- 
vention of this manufacture, they 
give the following account of it: — 
A boy of the name of Bedker, appren- 
tice to an apothecary in Berlin, had 
a powder or tincture given him by a 
Jew, which, as they say, turned all 



SAXONY. — ROUTE 30. — DRESDEN. 



191 



sorts of metals into gold. He was 
sent for by the King of Prussia, but 
afterwards escaped to Wittenburg. 
The King of Poland, to make sure of 
his person, kept him at the castle of 
Koningstein, and it is said he could 
transmute metals to gold as long as 
his tincture lasted. After this he 
made several experiments on earths 
in Saxony, and at last having found 
out the art of making porcelain, was 
fixed at this place, created a baron, 
and had a stipend settled upon him. 
The manufacture was begun 140 
years ago. It belongs, as I have 
already observed, to the king, who 
makes more presents of it than he 
sells. The manufacture was formerly 
conducted with the utmost secrecy. 
There is no admittance into the most 
common part of the works without an 
order from the governor of Dresden; 
nor were the workmen ever seen 
without the gates of the manufac- 
tory. At first it was made only of 
red earth, which was not glazed, but 
it was polished, at a great expense, 
as fine as marble. Near the palace 
is the warehouse, open every day, 
where articles may be purchased. 

The road between Meissen and 
Dresden is one of the pleasantest in 
Europe, through hills, vales, vine- 
yards, gardens, meadows, and along 
the banks of the Elbe. 

Hotel de Saxe, in the new market 
place. This is a large first rate and 
comfortable hotel, pleasantly situate 
near the Picture Gallery and other 
interesting exhibitions. An excel- 
lent table d'hote every day at one 
o'clock, price 15 S.gr. without wine. 
Arrangements may be made by the 
month during the winter, on reason- 
able terms. 

Hotel (V Ayigleterre (English Ho- 
tel), in the centre of the town, near 
the Picture Gallery and other inte- 
resting exhibitions, is a good and 
comfortable house; a table d'hote 
every day at one o'clock. The pro- 
prietor, Mr. Hirsch, speaks English, 



and is most attentive and obliging. 
The charges are very moderate. 

Stadt Rom. Stadt Gotha. 

Hotel de France, in the Wilsduf- 
fer Gasse, good. Bed rooms, 10 s. 
grs. ; breakfast, 7§ s. grs; table 
d'hote at one o'clock, 15 s. grs. 

The capital of Saxony is a large 
and populous city, the usual resi- 
dence of the king, situate on the 
river Elbe, containing a population 
of 90,000 inhabitants ; it takes its 
name from three lakes in the neigh- 
bourhood, which in their language 
are called Dreyen Seen. The river 
Elbe divides the town into two parts, 
one called the new, and the other 
the old city. The bridge over the 
Elbe is 540 feet long, and 36 broad, 
consisting of eighteen arches, and 
built of hewn stone. Great order is 
observed in passing this bridge, one 
sifle being appointed to lead to the 
new city, and the other to the old. 
In the new town the houses are all 
of freestone, high and substantial; 
the streets broad, straight, well 
paved, neat, and lighted with gas. 

The Palace is an ancient struc- 
ture, making but an indifferent ap- 
pearance. The inside, hovi'ever, 
makes amends, the apartments beina: 
noble, and splendidly furnished. The 
grf)und floor, called the grune ge- 
wolbe, or green vault, is a repository 
of great riches, as well as curiosi- 
ties. It is composed of eight arched 
rooms, which contain a prodigious 
treasure of gold and precious stones, 
several sets of brilliant diamonds, 
rubies, emeralds, pearls, sapphires, 
&c. Every set is complete, and 
consists of buttons, buckles, loops for 
hats, &c., swords, hangers, sword- 
belts, muffs, snuff-boxes, w^atches, 
canes, tweezer-cases, pocket-books ; 
in short, all the most expensive trin- 
kets, many of exquisite art, ranged 
with admirable nicety in cases of 
chrystal. 

One of the first objects usually 
visited by strangers is the Picture 
Gallery, containing 1857 pictures, 



192 



ROUTE 30. — DRESDEN PART Til. 



among which are E-aphael's Ma- 
donna di Sisto, and six pieces by 
Correggio, namely, St. George, St. 
Sebastian, St. Francis, the portrait 
of a grave man, Mary Magdalen, 
and the Adoration of the Shep- 
herds, otherwise called the Notte, or 
Night; in this exquisite perform- 
ance the light proceeds from the In- 
fant Jesus : here also are pictures by 
Titian, Julio Romano, Paul Yerro- 
nese, Carracci, Battoni, Dolce, Van- 
dyke, Rubens, E-embrandt, Bo), 
Dow, Mieris, Van der Werf, Breug- 
hem, Everdingen, Berghem, E,uis- 
dael, Ostade, Teniers, Wouvermann, 
Durer, Poussin, Le Brun, Claude 
Lorraine, Mengs, Thiele, Dietrich, 
and Frederich. 

The Picture Gallery stands in the 
New Market- It is open to the 
public, gratis, every day except Sun- 
day, irom nine till one, from the 
month of May to the end of Octo- 
ber. 

The following public buildings, 
&c. adorn the Florence of Germany ; 
the Zwinger near the chateau, an 
historical collection, a cabinet of na- 
tural history, and a collection of 
prints and curiosities ; the Arsenal, 
the Japan Palace, with a collection 
of porcelain, antiquities, and medals, 
and a splendid library, the Catholic 
Church of the Court, with exquisite 
music every Sunday at eleven. 

To the principal collections at 
Dresden admission is granted on 
fixed days and hours by tickets, is- 
sued only in a limited number, but 
delivered gratis, upon application to 
the directors. As these, however, 
are usually all engaged beforehand, 
a stranger pressed for time should 
employ the agency of a valet de place. 

Those who do not choose to wait 
for tickets may gain admittance at 
almost any hour, and on any day, 
by paying two thalers ; a party of 
six or a single person pays the same. 
The Green Vaults are never shown 
except upon payment of a fee to the 
director of two thalers. 



Theatre. A large handsome new 
building, with spacious entrances. 
The auditory consists of three tiers 
of alcove boxes, spersity, and par- 
terre, with seats. The royal state 
box is in the centre of the second 
tier; there is another box set apart 
for the royal family when they visit 
the theatre privately. Over the stage 
the hour and minutes are marked 
through two openings. In summer 
the performances commence at half- 
past six, in winter at six ; admis-^ 
sion, first boxes, 1 thaler ; second, 
25 s. gros ; spersity, wi'harm chairs, 
I2is. gros; parterre, 10 gros. Opera 
and comedy on alternate nights. 

The principal gardens and pro- 
menades are the garden of the Ja- 
panese palace, and the Hopfgarten. 
A pleasing excursion may be made 
to Findlatery Garden, a half-hour's 
drive ; it commands one of the iiiost 
extensive views near Dresden, 

Steamers. The Germani and Bo- 
hemian, both belonging to and com- 
manded by Englishmen, the Messrs. 
Andrews and Obristwy, leave Dres- 
den, near Prague, five times a week, 
at 6 A.M. during the summer, ascend • 
ing in 16 to 18 hours, and descend- 
ing in 8 to 10 hours; they are com- 
fortable and clean boats, with every 
comfort aboard a,t moderate charges. 
Carriages are taken by these boats , 
The distance is 28 German miles. 

Fares from Dresden, 1st cabin, 
7 fi. 2nd ditto, 5 fi. ; from Prague to 
Dresden, 1st cabin, 9 fl. 2nd ditto, 
6 fl. Steamers also leave Dresden 
for Pillnitz (Perisa) Leitmeritz, cor- 
responding with Toplitz, every day. 

JDros/iies, with one horse, the 
course in town, one person, 5 n. 
gros ; two persons, 7^ n. gros ; two 
horses, one person, 7^ n. gros ; two 
persons, 11 gros. 

Environs. — Travellers should vi- 
sit the bath of Link, the valley of 
Plauen, and the canton and baths 
of Tharand, remarkable for the pic- 
turesque views from the summit of 
the ruins, and the romantic spot 



SAXONY. — ROUTE 30. SAXON SWITZERLAND. 



193 



known under the name of Heilige 
Hallen. 

Pillnitz^ which is at the distance 
of two short leagues from Dresden, 
is the summer residence of the so- 
vereign, and the place where the 
first coalition was formed in 1792. 
It is agreeably situated on the banks 
of the Elbe. The ascent of the 
Borsberg is a delightful promenade, 
interspersed with harbours, and is 
watered by a rivulet ; from its sum- 
mit may be seen one of the most ex- 
tensive and magnificent prospects in 
Germany. Another view, preferred 
by many, is from the top of the ruins 
near Pillnitz. Moritzbourg is cele- 
brated for its carp. The fortress of 
Konigstein, three miles from Dres- 
den, is built on a rock, which rises 
1187 yards above the level of the 
Elbe. There is a remarkable well in 
this fortress, 1800 feet deep. It is 
always full of water, which is re- 
markably clear, and very wholesome. 
It is usually presented to strangers 
in a goblet, said to have been exe- 
cuted by the hand of Augustus him- 
self. This well can never be cut 
into by the enemy, its walls being 
bomb-proof. The coup-d'ceil, at the 
place called Konigs-Nase, is unique, 
the scenery is varied and interest- 
ing, but the most striking is the view 
of LiL'enstein, and of the charming 
valley called die Hutten. The en- 
virons of Konigstein and of Pirna, 
and the beautiful promenades of Son- 
nenstein and "Weesenstein, are all 
deserving of attention. Freyberg is 
interesting on account of its mines. 

The King^s Silver Mhie, the 
descent to which is by 660 steps ; 
those who ^isit it would do well to 
have cloaks ready to put on at 
the place where they are to come 
out ; it is usual to give a rix-doUar 
to the man at whose house they dress 
themselves to descend, and who ac- 
companies them to the mine. The 
103 mines worked in the canton of 
Freyberg produced, in 1799,49,714 
marks, and in 1800, 45,949 marks. 



The net produce of the whole Saxcn 
Erzgeberge, from 1761 to 1801, 
amounted to 2-2,447,638 rix-dollars. 

SAXON SWITZERLAND. 

The Saxon Switzerlandj which is 
in the immediate neighbourhood of 
Dresden, is a part of the sandstone 
mountains, extending on the south 
from Hohnstein and Stolpen to the 
Elbe ; it is bounded on the north by 
the rivulet Wesenitz, on the west by 
the Gottleube, on the south and south- 
east by Bohemia, and on the east 
by a line passing over Stolpen and 
Neustadt, at the foot of Mount 
Falkenberg. 

You may go to Scandau, which is 
the centre of this beautiful range of 
hills, two different ways, either by 
Pirna and Konigstein, or by Pillnitz, 
the Batsey, and Hohnstein. If you 
take the latter route, the following 
are the objects most worthy of your 
attention : Pillnitz, the king's sum- 
mer residence, with a castle, Mount 
Borsberg, an artificial cascade, a 
mill in a very picturesque situation, 
a hermitage, &c.; you may then 
proceed through the charming valley 
of the Wesenitz and the Liebethal 
stone-quarries, to Lohmen, which is 
at the distance of two German miles 
from Dresden ; here there is a very 
picturesque castle ; passing through 
the Ottowalder Grund, which is ex- 
tremely romantic, you then reach the 
Bastei, or Bastion, a rocky promon- 
tory with an enchanting prospect ; 
several paths lead from this spot to 
Schandau. a small town, with 1,000 
inhabitants, renowned for the beauty 
of the neighbouring scenery, and for 
the efficacy of a mineral spring in 
the Kimitz valley. Proceeding 
through this valley, at the distance 
of six English miles, you arrive at 
the Kuhstall, a rocky cavern, 80 feet 
high, and 70 feet broad. The road 
now conducts you through the 
Habichtgrund to the little Winter- 
berg, which has on it a house called 



194 



ROUTE 31. — DRESDEN TO VIENNA. PART III. 



Winternaus, and thence a shady 
plantation leads to the great Winter- 
iDerg, a mountain 2^ English miles 
from the Kuhstall ; its summit, which 
is covered with basalt, is 1766 Paris 
feet above the level of the sea, and 
affords a most delightful prospect 
over a surface of almost fifty- four 
German square miles, or 1142 Eng- 
lish square miles. The wood, which 
is very good, then brings you, in 
two English miles, to the majestic 
Prebischthor, a rocky arch 120 feet 
high and of the same width. At 
Hirniskretschen, which is a Bohe- 
mian frontier village close by, you 
may hire a gondola to take you back 
to Schandau by the Elbe. 

From this spot those who have 
time and money enough may make 
very pleasant excursions into other 
mountainous districts, such as the 
Ochelgrund, Mount Waizdorf, and 
Kikelsberg, by Sebnitz and Neustadt 
to Falkenberg and Unger; to tlie 
rocky country east of Schandau; 
todiehohe Liebe: to Schramnastein, 
Reischenstein, ard Falkenstein ; to 
Arnstein, Kleinstein, and Heilberg ; 
to Zschand, Hinkel's Schluchte 
(defiles) ; and back again over E,aub- 
stein and Wildenstein, by Hinter- 
hermsdorf to the Ober Schleuse 
(upper sluice), and the Thornwald 
"Walls; to Zschirnstein, to Schnee- 
berg and the Bierlergrund ; to Tollen- 
stein and to Tetschen,in Bohemia. 

The left bank of the Elbe is also 
crowded with the most beautiful 
spots, such as the Hirschmiihle, 
near the Bohemian frontier, opposite 
Schmilke, beneath a jutting rock 
called Horn, which protects it from 
the rain, and has for centuries threat- 
ened to crush it; the village of 
Schona ; the isolated rocks called 
Zirkelstein and Kahlstein ; and the 
highest rocky mountain in this dis- 
trict, Tschirnstein, from which you 
enjoy the finest prospect in the 
whole Saxon Switzerland. 

You may return to Dresden by 
Mount Lilienstein, the summit of 



which is 1120, or, according to 
Benzenberg, 942 feet above the level 
of the Elbe, and 1088 feet above 
the sea. Opposite to it is situated 
the town of Konigstein, at the foot 
of Mount Quiriberg, with 1300 in- 
habitants. 

The Diebskeller (thieves' cellar), 
a cavern eighty feet deep and twenty 
broad, is amongst the rocky sum- 
mits of Mount Quiriberg. At no 
great distance is the small Deib- 
skeller, and near it is a cross in me- 
mory of a noble-minded virgin of 
Pirna, who, during the. thirty years' 
war, in order to escape from the 
brutality of the Swedish soldiery, 
threw herself from a rock which still 
bears the name of Die Keusch-heits- 
probe (the trial of chastity). 

The most remarkable object, how- 
ever, in this part of the country, is 
the fortress of Konigstein, with a 
garrison of 200 men; the cellar 
formerly contained a cask consider- • 
ably more capacious than the famous i| 
Heidelberg tun. From Konigstein 
the road leads over an eminence to 
the cheerful town of Pirna, which is 
situated on the Elbe, and has 4,200 
inhabitants ; it is noted for its quar- 
ries of sandstone, which is so well 
adapted for building, that it is sent 
as far as Prussia and the Netherlands. 
From this spot the roads leads 
through cheerful villages to Dresden. 

ROUTE 31. 

DRESDEN TO VIENNA BY PRAGUE. 

Hotels. Three Linden Trees., 
very good indeed. Table d'hote every 
day at four. Black Horsey very 
dirty. Angleterrey new, near the 
Station. 

Prague is situated at the con- 
fluence of the Beraun and the Mol- 
dau, and contains 136,000 inhabi- 
tants. 

The most remarkable public build- 
ings are the chapter-house of the 
Strahof, on the Hard chin, with its 



BOHEMIA.— ROUTE 32. DRESPEN TO VIENNA. 



195 



organ, its library, and several inte- 
resting collections ; the palace of 
Czernim, remartable for the singu- 
larity of its architecture, for its 
gallery of pictures, and for several 
paintings in fresco ; the imperial 
chateau, the Spanish Hall, the an- 
cient prisons, the monument in the 
square, the dome, or cathedral, a 
Gothic building, containing the tomb 
of St Nepomucene, the chapel of St. 
Wenceslas, &c. ; in theKleing-seite, 
the church of St. Nicholas, richly 
ornamented ; the palace of "Wallen- 
stein, or Wald stein, and the garden, 
which is open to the public. In the 
old tovsn, the bridge over the Mol- 
dau, 1790 feet long, with, sixteen 
arches, and twenty-eight statues of 
saints, and commanding a fine view 
of the Klein-seite aud Mount St. 
Laurence ; the church of St. Croix, 
a fine specimen of architecture ; the 
ci-devant college of the Jesuits, 
where may be seem the imperial 
library, the cabinet of natural his- 
tory, and the observatory ; the Old 
Jews' Synagogue and burial ground ; 
on a steep rock, the ruins of "Wis- 
cherad, the first residence of the 
ancient sovereigns of Bohemia ; the 
citadel, and the arsenal. 

CoUectio7is and Cabinets, — The 
most curious are the imperial library, 
containing 130,000 volumes, and a 
manuscript of Pliny ; the cabinet of 
curiosities and of machines, the col- 
lection of natural history of the uni- 
versity, and the observatory, which 
possesses some remains of Tycho- 
Brahe ; the libraries of the chapter 
of Straof, of the cathedral, of Count 
Nostiz, &c. 

The manufactures consist chiefly 
of hats, gloves, laces, worsted stock- 
ings, linens, silk, stutfs, steel articles, 
and sugar. 

Promenades and Gardens. — The 
most agreeable promenades are the 
new walk, the castle garden, Count 
"VYaUstein's garden, the Farber- 
Insel, the islands known under the 



name of Great and Little Venice, 
and outside tho town the new 
English gardens, belonging to the 
Prince of Kinsky and Baron "Wim- 
raer ; the garden of Count Canal, 
and, at some distance, Sharka and 
Procopi. Near this place is seen 
the monument of the Archduke 
Charles, and a stone with an in- 
scription; on this stone Frederick 
the Great was seated when he planned 
the siege of Prague. 



ROUTE 32. 



FROM PRAGUE TO LINZ. 



Names of the Stages. G 


. miles 


Jesnitz 


2 


Dnesbeck . 


2 


Bistritz 


2 


Wotitz 


2 


Sudomleritz 


2 


Tabor 


2 


Koschutz . 


2 


Wessely . , 


2 


Budvveis . 


1 



From Budweis a railroad is open 
to Linz and Gmlinden, on the road 
to Salzburg, distance twenty-six 
German miles. Fares from Budweis 
to Linz, first class, 3 fi. ; second 
class, 2 fl. 

Stations. — Holkau, An gem, 
Kerschbaum, Lest, Oberndorf, Linz. 

Route to Yienna continued. 

Bohmischbrod is a royal miner's 
town, and has 1,300 inhabitants. 

Collin is situated on the Elbe, 
circle of Kaurzim, in Bohemia ; it 
has 400 houses and 4,400 inhabi- 
tants. The topazes, cornelians, and 
garnets found in the neighbourhood, 
are polished here. On the 18th of 
June, 1757, Daun, the Austrian 
Field-Marshal, beat the Prussians 
not far from the castle of Chotzemitz ; 
marks of the cannon balls are still to 



196 



ROUTE 32. — DRESDEN TO VIENNA. PART III. 



be seen in the Sun Inn, the only one 
in the place, where Frederick the 
Great stayed durina: the battle. 

Czaslau or Tachaslau^ in the 
circle of Tschaslau in Bohemia has 
300 houses with 2,500 inhabitants. 
The church, of which the steeple is 
the highest in Bohemia, contains the 
tomb of John Chwal von Trucknow, 
commonly called Liska, the leader of 
the Hussites; he died in 1424, in 
the encampment two German miles 
from this town. 

Deutschbrod on the Sazawa, 2,700 
inhabitants : here is a large market 
or ring, and most of the houses 
round it have porches, called in Lower 
Saxony Lowinge, or Arbours. 

Inglau^ the oldest miner's town in 
Germany, situated in a wild and 
mountainous country on the banks of 
the Tglawa in Moravia : it has nearly 
1 1 ,000 inhabitants. There is a clo- 
thiers ' company consisting of 400 
members ; but Inglau paper is made 
at Altenberg, a village in the circle 
of Inglau in Bohemia. 

Budwitz^ or Mahrisch-Budwitz, 
i. e., Moravian Budwitz, has 1600 
inhabitants. 

Znaim is situated on a mountain, 
on the banks of the Taya, and has 
.5,100 inhabitants: it was formerly 
the residence of the Princes of Mo- 
ravia, Here is an old castle, which 
is now employed as a military 
hospital; in the ci-devant Pre- 
raonstrants' Abbey there is now a 
tobacco manufactory, where 25,000 
cwts. are annually prepared. There 
is a temple which is called the 
Heidentempel. 

Strockau is near the Danube ; it 
has 1500 inhabitants, and great corn 
markets. 

Korneuburg, the chief town of a 
circle. Its population is 1900. 

Enzersdorf is on the banks of the 
Danube, and has 800 inhabitants : 
here is the tomb of Werner, the poet, 
who died in 1823. 



VIENNA. 

Hotels. Archduc Charles^ a large 
excellent establishment of the first 
class, centrally situated near the 
theatres, &c. Bed-rooms are charged 
1 to 3 florins ; breakfast, 40kreutzers. 
There is no table dhote at this house ; 
but dinners a la carte are supplied at 
all hours ; the proprietor is remark- 
ably attentive and obliging to his 
guests. The dinners are cooked and 
served in the best style. 

Golden Larnb^ in the Leopoldstadt, 
is a large house of the first class. 
"Very good. The Etnpress of Aiistna, 
Stadt Franlcfort^ &c. 

Every stranger, on entering the 
gates of the suburbs, will be required 
to leave his passport with the police. 
If the stranger intends to remain any 
length of time in Vienna, he should 
apply for an Aufenthalts-Karte, or 
permission of remaining. At its ex- 
piration, should he wish to prolong 
his stay, he should be particularly 
punctual in getting his Karte renewed. 

On leaving, it is necessary to have 
the passport signed not only at the 
police, but at the office of every am- 
bassador whose country you intend 
entering. 

Moner/. Till within these few 
years there were two distinct sorts of 
money current in Vienna ; one called 
Schein or paper money ; the other 
Conventions-Munze, or good money. 
The proportionate value of the latter 
to the former, is as 100 to 260, con- 
sequently 1 florin in Conv. Miinze is 
worth 2^ fl. Schein, &c. Another 
expression for Schein is Wiener- 
Wahrung ; and for Convent-Miinze, 
Silber. These terms are likewise 
expressed by the initials C. M. and 
W. W. 

In large money-transactions there 
is no question of anything but C. M. 
but in small purchases at shops, and 
in many of the hotels the prices are 
fixed in Schein. Except, however, 
a few 6 fl. notes and copper coin, the 
money itself is very rarely to be met 
with in circulation. 



BOHEMIA. — ROUTE 32. DRESDEN TO VIENNA. 



197 



An imperial gold ducat is 

worth . . .. 4 fl. 30 kr. C, M. 
A Dutch ducat . . 4 fl. 30 kr, „ 
1 florin or Gulden con- 
tains 60kr. „ 

There are also silver 

coins of . . . . 20kr. „ 

of . . . . 10 kr, „ 

of . . . . 5 kr. „ 

of . . . . 3kr. „ 

Pieces of three kreuzers are called 
Groschen. 

The only copper coin in CM, is 
kreuzers, ^ kreuzers,^ kreuzers. All 
other copper money is W. W. ; and 
as its value has been diminished by 
government, it is necessary to pay 
attention to the following observa- 
tions : 

Copper pieces marked 30 kr. are cur- 
rent for 6 kr, ; 15 kr., for 3 kr. ; 3 kr,, for 

2 kr, ; 1 kr,, for 1 kr. W. W. 

Days on which the Public Places 
are open. 

Jfow(/a^-Imperial Arsenal (tickets) 
7 to 10 and one to five; City 
Arsenal, 9 to 12 and 3 to 6 ; Cabinet 
of Antiquities and Medals, (tickets) 
10 to 2. 

Tuesday — Ambras Collection and 
Egyptian Antiquities, in the Belvi- 
dere, 9 to 12, and 3 to 6 ; Picture 
Gallery, same place and hours ; 
Prince Esterhazy's Collection of 
Paintings, 9 to 12, 

Wednesday — Collection of Mi- 
nerals, 9 to 1 ; Museum of Natural 
History, 10 to 12 ; Imperial Arsenal, 
7 to 10 and 1 to 5 ; City Arsenal, 9 
to 12 and 3 to 6 ; Blind Institution, 

10 to 12 ; Prince Esterhazy's Col- 
lection of Paintings, 9 to 12. 

Friday — Treasury (Schatzkam- 
mer) 11 to 1 (tickets); Cabinet of 
Antiquities and Medals, 10 to 2 
(tickets) j Ambras Collection ana 
Egyptian Antiquities, 9 to 12 and 

3 to 6 ; Picture Gallery, same hours. 

Saturday — Treasury, 11 to 1 
(tickets) ; Collection of Minerals, 9 to 
1 ; Josephine's Academy of Natural 
History in wax, 8 a.m. in summer, 

11 A.M. in winter, (tickets); Deaf 



and Dumb Institution, 10 to 12; 
Academy des Beaux Arts ; Paintings. 

Daily. — Imperial Library, 9 to 2 ; 
St. Stephen's Cathedral ; and Au- 
gustin and Capuchin Churches. 

Excursions — Laxemburg, Schon- 
brunn, Hetzendorf, Hitzing, Bruhl, 
Baden, Helenthal. Promenades — 
Glacis, Ramparts, Prater (Sundays), 
Volks-Garden. Eiacres, no fixed 
tariff ; make a contract if only for a 
short course. 

Vienna, the capital of Austria, is a 
handsome city, with a population of 
380,000 souls, situate in a fine fruitful 
plain, on the south side of the Danube, 
on a branch of that rivei, which here 
divides itself into many streams, 
forming several small islands. The 
little river "Wien, which gives its 
name to the place, flows on the east 
part of the city, and falls a little 
below it into the Danube. ^Tis un- 
certain at what time this city was 
founded ; the Romans had a fortress 
here, or very near the place where 
the city now stands, called Vindo- 
mina, or Vindobona; and the many 
Roman antiquities found in this 
neighbourhood, induce people to think 
that Vienna stands upon the same 
spot of ground. This city made no 
figure till about the year 1182, when 
it was enlarged, and surrounded with 
a wall by the Marquis of Austria, 
with the ransom money of Richard I. 
Within the walls it is not three 
English miles in circumference, but 
the suburbs, like those of London 
and other great towns, are much 
larger than the city. 

Vienna maintained two vigorous 
sieges against the Turks ; the last 
was in the year 1683, when the town, 
being almost reduced to extremity, 
was luckily relieved by John Sobiesky, 
King of Poland. 

The town has twelve gates or 
Thore, viz, ; Burgthor, Scottenthor, 
Neuesthor, Rothenthurmthor, Stu- 
benthor, Old Karnthnerthor, New 
Karnthnerthor, C ustom-house-thor , 



198 



ROUTE 32. — DRESDEN TO VIENNA. TART III. 



Sclianzelthor, Fischerthor, Franz- 
ensthor, Carolinenthor. It has 23 
squares or public places, the chief of 
which are; the Hof, or Francis 
Platz, the Graben, the hohe Markt, 
the Freiung, the neue Markt, the 
Petersplatz, the Stephansplatz, the 
Josephsplatz, the interior Burgplatz, 
the exterior Burgplatz, the Stock- 
im-Eisen, the Judenplatz, the Mi- 
noritenplatz, the Ballplatz. 

Bridges. — There are five bridges 
crossing the small arm of the Danube, 
which divides the town from the 
Leopoldstadt ; viz., the Augarten 
bridge, of wood ; the Charles bridge, 
which is a suspension bridge, 50 fa- 
thoms long, only for foot-passengers ; 
the Ferdinand's bridge, of stone, 
forming the grand communication 
with the Leopoldstadt ; the Francis 
bridge, leading from the end of the 
Jagerzeile to the Weissgarber ; the 
Sophia bridge, leading from the 
Prater to Erdberg ; this is also a 
suspension bridge and only intended 
for foot-passengers ; carriages how- 
ever cross it. 

Over the Wien there are seven 
large bridges and several small ones ; 
two are suspension bridges. The 
chief communication is by the stone 
one, leading to the Weiden. 

The Imperml Palace, called the 
Hof burg. The oldest part of the 
pile is the side-wing to the east, 
built about the beginning of the 13th 
century; in the year 1275, it was 
destroyed by fii-e. 

Ottokar II. caused it to be rebuilt. 
Ferdinand I. had the whole palace 
enlarged. Leopold I. begsn the long 
south front in 1660. The side-wing 
to the west was commenced at the 
end of the 16th century. The north 
side, closing the oblong square, is 
called the Reichska7izley^ or chan- 
cery of the empire. It is considered 
one of the finest pieces of modern 
architecture in Germany, and was 
built by Fischer von Erlach in 1728. 
The figures that adorn the two gate- 



ways, representing four laboursof Her- 
cules, are by Lorenzo Matthielli. 

The hnperial Library, forming 
the main front of Joseph's square, 
also a masterpiece of Fischer's, 
built in 1 726. The large hall is 240 
feet long, by 54. It contains 300,000 
volumes. The east wing contains the 
various cabinets of natural history, 
antiqxiities, &c. ; the west, the two 
ridotto halls and imperial riding 
school. The north side of this 
square is formed by the palace of 
Count Fries. 

The Trattner House, Graben. 
Perhaps the largest private house in 
Vienna. It brings in a rent of 
6000^. stg. 

The house of Baron John Puthon, 
on the Hof. It is called the large 
bunch of grapes, and stretches back- 
wards into the tiefen Graben, where 
it is seven stories high. 

A new monument was erected in 
June, 1846, in Francis, formerly the 
Hof Platz, to the memory of Francis 
I. The figure of the emperor is' placed 
on a large high circular pedestal of 
polished granite, around which are 
eight bronze figures in high relief. 
This stands on a square, at the four 
corners of which are large figures, 
representing Power, Justice, Peace, 
and Religion. The figures are all 
in gold bronze. 

The Column of the Trinity on the 
Graben, erected in 1629, in memory 
of the plague. It is QQ feet high, 
and the angels are considered per- 
fect as works of art. ■ 

The Pillar of the Holy Virgin on 
the Hof; it was erected in 1667, is 
24 feet high and is of cast metal. 

The Pillar to the Holy Virgiji on 
the hohen Markt ; 1732. 

The Equestrian Statue of the Em- 
peror Joseph II., in Josepli's Square, 
erected in 1807. It is by Zauner. 

The Public Fountain on the neuen 
Markt, with five extremely beautiful 
statues of a composition of lead, by 
Donner. 



BOHEMIA. — ROUTE 32. DRESDEN TO VIENNA. 



199 



The Fountain on the Franzis- 
canerplatz ; a statue of soft metal. 

The tvw Fountains on the Graben ; 
idem. 

The two Fountains on the Hof ; 
idem. The statues of all these five 
fountains are by Fischer. 

The Stock im Eisen. (The club 
in iron.) The stump of an old tree, 
said to mark the limits to which the 
forest of Vienna formerly reached. 
It is the custom throughout Germany 
for young artisans, while studying 
their trade, to travel through the 
country, making a stay of several 
months, sometimes a year or more, at 
the principal cities, by which they 
acquire a knowledge of the various 
improvements and modes of working 
in their respective branches. Till a 
young journeyman has gone through 
this sort of ordeal, he is not con- 
sidered to have attained perfection. 
Not a single journeyman locksmith 
passes through Vienna, without ham- 
mering a nail into the Stock im 
Eisen : so that it is at present com- 
pletely cased in nail-heads, and 
hence its name. 

Churches. — St. Stephen's Cathe- 
dral. Its first foundations were laid 
by Henry Jasomirgott in 1144. In 
1258, 1265 and 1276, it suflFered 
materially by fire, and was again 
restored by king Ottokar of Bohemia. 
It received its present exterior from 
Kodolph IV., who also had planned 
two steeples for it. In 1400, George 
Hauser raised the steeple to two- 
thirds of its height; in 1407 Anton 
Pilgram undertook to continue it^ 
and completed it in 1433. It was 
74 years in building. Pilgram 's 
successor was John Buchsbaum. 
The church is constructed entirely of 
hewn stone; its length is 342 feet; 
its greatest breadth 222 feet ; its 
front breadth 144 feet. It has 31 
lofty windows and 5 entries. The 
steeple is 428 feet high. The copper 
eagle on the top, weighs 120 Viennese 
pounds. The dial is 12 feet 6 by 11 



feet 3, The hands are 6 feet 4. The 
large bell weighs 345 cwt., and the 
tongue 1300 lbs in addition ; it was 
cast from cannon taken in the Turkish 
siege. The staircase has 553 stone 
steps and 200 of wood ; the highest 
summit is only to be ascended by 
ladders. 

The subterranean part of this 
church consists of 30 large vaults 
and the royal vault. Each of the 
former is 8 fathoms long, 3 broad and 
2 high. From 1365 to 1576, the royal 
vault was used as the place of inter- 
ment for princes of the Austrian 
house. From that period it fell into 
neglect, and a royal vault was opened 
in the monastery of the Capuchins. 
Ferdinand V. afterwards made the 
regulation that the bowels of every 
member of the imperial family should 
be interred in the cathedral ; the 
heart in the Loretto chapel of the 
Augustins, and the corpse in the 
vault of the Capuchins. Leave of 
entry both to vaults and steeple is to 
be had at the cathedral of&ce, in the 
small street opposite the tower, lead- 
ing to the Singerstrasse, No. 847. 

The Augustins', close to Joseph's 
Square; founded between 1330 
and 1339. Here is the Loretto 
chapel, built in 1 637, by Eleonora of 
Mantua, wife of Ferdinand II., 
where the hearts of all the members 
of the imperial family are conserved 
in silver urns. Also the celebrated 
monument by Canova, erected by 
Duke Albert of Teschen to his spouse 
the Archduchess Christina, in 1805. 
It cost 20,000 ducats. 

The Capuchins', on the neuen 
Markt ; founded in 1622. The whole 
church and convent are extremely 
simple. It is chiefly remarkable for 
its imperial vault, where the remains 
of all members of the imperial family, 
with few exceptions, since Matthias, 
have been deposited. This vault 
consists of a long archway, lined with 
coffins on each side, and enclosed by 
an iron gate. It is open to the public 



200 



ROUTE 32. — DRESDEN TO VIENNA. PART III. 



every All Soul's day (2nrl November) ; 
but strangers may easily obtain entry 
at other times. 

St. Charles', on the "Wieden, facing 
the Glacis, Built in one year from 
1736—37, by Martinelli, after the 
plan of Fischer von Erlach. The 
winding bas-reliefs on the two ma- 
jestic columns in front, represent the 
life, actions and death of St. Charles. 
These pillars are 41 feet high and 13 
in diameter. The cupola and altar- 
pieces are finely painted. 

The parish church of Mariahilf ; 
1686-1713. This church possesses a 
very ancient picture of the Holy 
Virgin, to which great honours are 
paid. 

Public Walks. — The K-amparts, a 
very agreeable walk round the walls 
of the town, planted with trees and 
commanding the neighbouring sub- 
urbs at a height of 50 feet above the 
Glacis. It is much frequented in 
spring and autumn and takes three 
quarters of an hour to go round at an 
easy pace. 

The Glacis. The suburbs lie at a 
pretty equal distance of about 600 
paces round the town ; the inter- 
vening space is called the Glacis. It 
consists chiefly of lawn, intersected 
with alleys of lime, chestnut and 
acacia in various directions, and a 
broad, well paved causeway in the 
middle. The Wasser Glacis, outside 
the Carolinen Thor is the most fre- 
quented ; there is here a morning 
establishment for drinking all sorts 
of mineral waters, a coffeehouse, and 
music in the evening. 

The Prater. This is part of the 
remains of a magnificent forest, still 
retaining a sufftcent number of ma- 
jestic trees to give evident proof of 
its antiquity. The usual road to the 
Prater is by the Jagerzeil. On 
reaching the end of this fine street, 
the whole forest lies before one, in- 
tersected by six large alleys, nearly 
in the form of a fan. The road im- 
mediately to the right, leads to the 
•FraDzensbriicke ; that on the left to 



the Northern Hailroad Station, and 
farther on to the Tabor bridge, which 
crosses the main arm of the Danube. 
The two alleys immediately to the 
right of the Railroad, leading to what 
is usually called the "Wild Prater, 
are little frequented but by solitary 
strollers, who love wandering in 
quiet, sequestered spots. The swim- 
ming school and the free bath also 
lie in this direction ; the alley is 
marked by a high pole, surmounted 
with a flag. The next alley to the 
right of this leads to the Firework 
place, and to a vast number of small 
ale houses, taverns, show-booths, 
roundabouts, swings, merry-go- 
rounds, skittle grounds, &c. &c., 
with which the whole wood is here 
interspersed, and which give it the 
name of Wurstl or Jack Pudding 
Prater. The only remaining one is 
the chief alley, which is by far the 
longest and finest, and is the resort 
of all the beau monde. It is divided 
in its whole length into three sections ; 
the middle broad causeway is for 
carriages, both going and returning ; 
the right for equestrians, and the left 
for pedestrians. These three sections 
terminate in a circular platform, 
called the Rondeau, bordering on an 
arm of the Danube. There the mass 
of carriages generally turn, espe- 
cially on great parade days ; but 
persons who choose to prolong their 
walk, drive or ride, can proceed far- 
ther, about the same distance, to a 
handsome summer building called the 
Lusthaus, usually considered the 
starting place of the steam boats for 
Presburgh and Pesth, though the 
real spot is something farther on. The 
Lusthaus, as well as the left side of 
the great Prater alley, is provided 
with coffeehouses, where all sorts of 
refreshments are to be had, and 
where on a summer evening many 
thousand persons are sometimes as- 
sembled. There is also a Panorama 
and an Olympic Pavilion for the 
display of feats of horsemanship., 
The Augarten in the Leopoldstadt, 



BOHEMIA. — ROUTE 32. DREST>EN TO VIENNA. 



201 



laid out in 1655 by Ferdinand III. ; 
enlarged by Leopold I., and made a 
present of to the public, as a place 
of recreation by Joseph II. in 1 775. 
It is a garden of 130,000 square 
fathoms, planted with alleys of the 
most majestic chestnut trees, clipped 
and formed in the old French style, 
but very agreeable in summer from 
the solemn silence of the walks and 
the density of the foliage, which is 
such as not to admit a single sun- 
beam. These alleys terminate on a 
long terrace or dam, commanding a 
fine view of the adjacent Brigitten- 
Au and the neighbouring range of 
mountains. Tiiere is a building near 
the entry provided with eating rooms, 
coffeehouse, dancing hall, billiards, 
<fec. The grand day for the Augarten 
is 1st May. 

The Brigittenau, a large irregular 
sort of copse, mixed with patches of 
lawn, which takes its name from a 
small chapel built here to St. Bridget 
by archduke Leopold William of 
Austria, in comanemoration of his 
having escaped unhurt by a ball from 
the Swedish army, which fell close 
beside him in IG'irO. It touches on 
the Augarten, and contains a number 
of little inns, alehouses, and coffee- 
houses, besides the Jagerhaus or 
hunting lodge, where refreshments 
may be had. There is an annual 
festival of the people held here, when 
there generally assemble from 30 to 
40,000 persons of all classes ; by far 
the greater number as active partici- 
pators in the merriment of the scene, 
the others as lookers-on. It can. be 
compared to nothing but Greenwich 
fair- 

The Volksgarten, to which the 
principal entry is from the side of the 
exterior Burgplats ; but it is in con- 
nexion with the Paradeis Garten 
above, and may be entered through 
it from the rampart. In the middle 
stands the temple of Theseus, built 
on purpose for Canova's masterpiece 
of Theseus destroying the Centaur. 
To the left of the temple, is a small 



building with a staircase descending 
to the catacombs. The garden is 
small, but has a good coffeehouse 
and music. 

The town moat^ formerly filled 
with water, but now a dry valley 
surrounding the town, enclosed on 
one side by the ramparts 50 feet high, 
and on the other by a grassy de- 
clivity of half the same elevation. 
Here one may ride, drive, or walk, 
in a long alley of lofty poplars, pro- 
tected from the wind in boisterous 
weather. 

Theatres. — Vienna has five thea- 
tres, two in the town, and three in 
the suburbs. 

The Court Theatre, in the palace, 
called the Burg Theatre. This ill- 
shaped house is exclusively devoted 
to classic German plays, and in 
point of actors is unquestionably the 
first in Germany. Some of Shaks- 
peare^s masterpieces, such as Ham- 
let, Macbeth, Lear, Othello, E.omeo 
and Juliet, are here represented 
with a taste and correctness. It is 
maintained at the expense of the 
Court. It has two tiers of boxes, 
two pits and two galleries. 

The Court Theatre of the Karnth- 
ner Thor. This is exclusively for 
German and Italian operas, and for 
ballets. It is mostly farmed out to 
Italians, to whom the Court usually 
pays a premium of 7000^. stg. as the 
amount received by subscription and 
at the doors would by no means 
cover the outlays. It has two pits 
and five galleries, the three lowest of 
which are partitioned out into boxes. 
The prices are variable. 

The Theatre on the Wien. For 
popular farces and grand spectacles. 
Som^e classic pieces are also repre- 
sented here. The stage is so spa- 
cious that 500 persons and 100 
horses have appeared on it at once. 
There are two pits with eight boxes, 
ten boxes in the first tier, and four 
galleries. 

The Theatre in the Leopoldstadt, 
for popular farces, comic spectacles. 



202 



ROUTE 32.— DRESDEN TO VIENNA. PART III. 



pantomimes, Ao. The representa- 
tions are mostly in the broadest 
Austrian dialect, rather vulgar, but 
often very amusing The machinery 
is excellent. There are one pit and 
three galleries. 

The Theatre in the Josephstadt, 
Kaiserstrasse. A very nice, little, 
neatly built house, with representa- 
tions of all sorts ; even the best 
operas are so vi'ell performed, that, 
when a popular actor appears there, 
crowds will flock over the glacis 
from town to enjoy the amusement. 
It has two pits, three galleries, four- 
teen boxes, and 400 closed seats. A 
large box costs 12 fl. w. w. ; a small 
one 8. The other prices are as at 
the Leopoldstadt. 

Coffeehouses. — There are about 
80 in Vienna. The following are the 
best: Daum's, Kohlmarkt ; Wolfs- 
berger's, Graben ; Schweiger's, Gra- 
ben ; Corti's, Joseph-square ; Lei- 
benfrost's, neuen Markt ; Neuner's, 
Plankengasse ; Lenz's, Bauern- 
markt ; HaidvogePs, Graben ; Cor- 
ra's, Blirgerspital ; Boos's Stephans- 
platz ; Bogner^s, Singerstrasse. One 
in the Yolksgarten and one on the 
Lowel rampart. 

In all the respectable coffeehouses, 
besides a good choice of German 
papers, there are generally one or 
two French papers, and Galignani's 
Messenger. Even the most ordinary 
have billiard tables. 

Collections. -The Imperial Trea- 
sury, containing, besides various im- 
perial regalia, as crowns, sceptres, 
«fec., innumerable precious orna- 
ments, adorned with an incredible 
number of the largest brilliants and 
other stones, and historical curiosi- 
ties of all sorts. The most valu- 
able part of the treasure is the great 
diamond, called the Florentine dia- 
mond ; it formerly belonged to 
Charles the Bold, Duke of Bur- 
gundy, who lost it at the battle of 
Granston, when it was found in the 



camp by a Swiss soldier, who sold 
it to a citizen of Berne for five 
florins ; after which, passing from 
one proprietor to another, it at 
length found a place in the trea- 
sury at Florence, whence it was 
carried to Vienna by the Roman 
Emperor, Francis I. It weighs 
\S9^ carats, and at the end of the 
last century it was valued at 
1,043,334 florins. 

There is also another diamond 
of extraordinary size, in the form 
of a hat button, bought by the 
same Emperor Francis, at Frank- 
fort- on-the-Maine, in 1764. This 
sovereign has also enriched the 
treasury with a complete set of 
buttons for a coat, of which each 
button is formed of a single dia- 
mond. It has been estimated at 
258,000 florins. 

There are besides a great number 
of costly jewels belonging to the 
family of the house of Austria, a 
quantity of golden vases, and some 
rare and curious specimens of art 
both modern and antique ; amongst 
others, a round dish formed of a 
single agate, measuring two feet 
two inches in diameter; a vase of 
brown and white agate, which will 
hold three pots, Vienna measure; 
and a valuable and curious clock, 
presented by the Landgrave of 
Hesse, in 1750, to the Empress 
Maria Theresa : every time the 
clock strikes, portraits present 
themselves of the Emperor, the 
Empress, the Landgrave, and some 
others. This treasury likewise 
contains a great many other valu- 
able clocks, several basso-relievos, 
small statues, busts, vases, cameos, 
snuff-boxes, a table service, several 
crosses of the Orders of the Golden 
Fleece, of St. Stephen, of Maria 
Theresa, &c., enriched with dia- 
monds ; and the coronation robe 
of a Roman Emperor, with the 
crown, the sceptre and the sword, 
all executed in exact imitation of 



BOHEMIA,— ROUTE 32. DRESDEN TO VIENNA. 



203 



the originals formerly kept at Nu- 
reiftberg. 

The entire treasury occupies a 
gallery and four apartments ; and a 
catalogue may be had of the whole. 
Tickets of entry to be had at the 
treasurer's office, in the Schweizer- 
hof, Open on Friday and Saturday 
at ten . 

The hnperial Amhras Collection, 
in the lower building of the Belvi- 
dere. This large and remarkable 
collection, made by Archduke Fer- 
dinand of Tyrol, was brought from 
the castle of Ambras, near Inns- 
bruck, to Vienna, in 1806. It con- 
sists of original suits of armour, 
arms, vases, Egyptian, and other 
antiquities, objects of art, natural 
curiosities, &c. It is open on Tues- 
days and Fridays, from 9 to 12 a.m. ; 
3 to 6 p.m. ; that is to say, from St. 
George to Michaelmas ; but from 
Michaelmas to St. George it is open 
on the same days, from 9 till 2. 

The Imperial Arsenal, in the 
Eenngasse, No. 140, founded under 
Maximilian II., 1569; it received 
its present degree of extension under 
Leopold I. It contains more than 
150,000 muskets, symmetrically and 
tastefully arranged. The ceilings 
are covered with armour and arms. 
The pillars, that support it, are 
formed of carbines v.^ith capitals of 
pistols. Amongst a va,st number of 
costumes of celebrated men, there 
are innumerable historical trophies 
and curiosities ; such are Monte- 
cuculi's coat of mail ; the keys of 
the town of Lyons j the long chain, 
consisting of 8,000 links, with which, 
in 1529, the Turks closed the Danube 
at Bude. It is open on Mondays 
and Thursdays, but only with tickets, 
to be had gratis, at the Inspeetions- 
Kanzlei of the imperial foundry, in 
the Seilerstatte, No. 958. 

The Civil Arsenal, on the Hof. 
It also contains arms of various 
sorts, tastefully arranged, and many 



historical remembrances. Among 
others, the great Blood-standard, 
taken from the Turks in 1683. It 
is open Mondays and Thursdays ; 
on other days, application must be 
made next door, at the Unterkam- 
meramt, No. 331. 

Libraries^ — The Imperial Public 
Library, in Joseph square, founded 
by Maximilian I. at the Minorites', 
and thence transferred to the present 
magnificent edifice, built by Charles 
Vl . in 1 723. It has, howcTcr, made 
its m.ost numerous acquisitions since 
that period, and still continues to be 
enriched by frequent presentations 
from learned societies and private 
individuals. 

It contains 24 extreme rarities, 
(Cimelien,) the most remarkable of 
which are, a brass plate with a Ro- 
man Senatus Consultum, anno U.C. 
567, one hundred and sixty years 
before Christ ; a roll of Mexican 
hieroglyphics ; the psalm- book of St. 
Hildegarde, consort of Charlemagne ; 
the Latin prayer- book of the emperor 
Charles V. ; Stilarius Pictaviensis 
de Trinitate, a papyrus manuscript 
of the 14th century ; Gerusalemme 
conquistata, di Torquato Tasso : the 
original manuscript, &c. : 16,076 
Manuscripts, of which 985 are Greek, 
85 Hebrew, 60 Chinese and Indian, 
1000 Oriental, 2,789 European on 
parchment, and 11,157 on paper; 
12,000 Incunabeln, or books, that 
appeared during the infancy of print- 
ing, while the art was still in its 
cradle, say before 1500 ; 270,000 
printed books, of more modern date ; 
940 Volumes, 14 portfolios and 245 
bandboxes of prints ; 6,000 volumes 
of music ; 8,000 autographs of dis- 
tinguished personages, a collection 
but recently set on foot by the inde- 
fatigable Prefect of the Establish- 
ment, Count Maurice Dietrichstein, 
whose zeal for its prosperity, perfect 
knowledge of his subject, and courtesy 
of manners, should not be here passed 
over. The reading room is open daily 



204 



ROUTE 32. — DRESDEN TO VIENNA. PART III. 



from 9 till 2, except Sundays and 
holidays. 

Picture Galleries. The Imperial 
Gallery, at the Belvidere. Ori- 
ginally founded, but neither in its 
present form nor situation, by Maxi- 
milian T. ; Ferdinand III. enriched 
it with a number of pictures formerly 
in possession of Charles II. of Eng- 
land, and under Charles VI. and 
Joseph IT. it received large addi- 
tions. It is impossible to give any 
idea of the richness of the above 
collection, vrithin the limits of the 
present vioxk ; suffice it to say, that 
it contains nearly 3000 pictures, 
large and small ; and that one of its 
great peculiarities and advantages 
is, its possessing admirable speci- 
mens from the various periods of all 
the principal schools, as Flemish, 
Dutch, Italian, and old and modern 
German, so as to present the artist 
or amateur a complete survey of the 
progress of the art, and form what 
may be termed a general whole. 
The names of Giorgione, Titian, 
(numerous) Paul Veronese, Tinto- 
retto, Raphael, Perugino, Caravag- 
gio, Salvator Rosa, Da Vinci, Del 
Sarto, Carlo Dolce, Michael Angelo, 
Guido Reni, Correggio, Carracci, 
Vandyk^ Rubens, Teniers, Rem- 
brandt, Paul Potter, Ruysdael, 
"Wouwermans, Van Eyck, Albrecht 
Diirer, will be sufficient to excite 
the curiosity of every visitor en- 
dowed with taste for exhibitions of 
this sort. From 24th of April to 
30th of September, this gallery is 
open, on Tuesdays and Fridays, 
from 9 to 12, and from 3 to 6. From 
1st of October to 23rd of April, same 
days, from 9 till 2. 

The Collection of the Archduke 
Charles, in his palace on the ram- 
part at the east end of the Burg. It 
contains more than 14,000 original 
drawings by Michael Angelo, An- 
dreo del Sarto, Raphael, Albrecht 
DUrer, Rubens, Rembrandt, Pous- 
sin, Claude Lorraine, and others ; 



150,000 engravings, among which are 
a set of Albrecht Durer, best imprt^s- 
sions. In the private apartments, 
among other very fine paintings, 
there is a most beautiful portrait of 
his Highness' eldest daughter, the 
Queen of Naples, when a child, by 
Lawrence. Open to artists and ama- 
teurs Mondays and Thursdays, in 
the forenoon. 

The Gallery of Prince Liechten- 
stein, in his palace, Rossau suburb. 
Above 1200 paintings by the most 
celebrated masters of the Italian 
and Flemish schools. Several by 
Leonardo da Vinci ; the best Holy 
Family of Del Sartoj Madonna and 
Child, by Perrugino. Also pictures 
by Raphael, Correggio, Guido Reni, 
Carlo Dolce, Titian, and six by Ru- 
bens. A portrait of Wallenstein, by 
Vandj'k. Free entry, daily, except 
Sundays, by application to the 
keeper. 

The Gallery of the Prince Ester- 
hazy ; palace, Mariahilf, No. 40. 
800 paintings, in 15 rooms ; chiefly 
of the Spanish and French schools; 
several statues by Canova, Thor- 
walsden, &c. 2,000 original draw- 
ings and 50,000 engravings. A lately 
printed catalogue to be had at all 
booksellers. Open Tuesdays and 
Thursdays, forenoon. 

The Collection of Paintings of 
Count Czernin ; Wallner Strasse^ 
No. 263. About 300 specimens of 
the French, Italian, Spanish, and 
Flemish schools. A superb Paul 
Potter. Strangers obtain admittance 
by application to the Count's steward." 
(Haushofmeister. ) 

The Collection of Count Schon- 
born; Renngasse, No. 135. Small 
but very choice. Carlo Dolce, 
Guido Reni, Gaercino, Vandyk, 
Holbein, Rubens and Rembrandt. 
Apply to the steward. 

The Collection of the late Count 
Lamberg, now the property of the 
Academy of Arts, Anna Gasse, No, 



BOHEMIA.— ROUTE 32. DRESDEN TO VIENNA. 



205 



980. Excellent paintings of old 
German masters, and Paul Potter, 
Claude Lorraine, &c. Applications 
must be made in writing, on the 
ground floor, the day previous. 

The Collections of Paintings and 
Engravings of Baron Bretfield ; 
Wasserkunst rampart, No. 1191, 
400 paintings, 10,000 engravings, 
and many curious woodcuts. 

The Imperial Cabinet of Antiqui- 
ties, Joseph-square, east side of the 
library. A vast number of antique 
household utensils, lamps, arms, 
tfec, several small bronze ves- 
sels, Etruscan vases, and a remark- 
ably rich collection of cut stones : 
the apotheosis of the Emperor Au- 
gustus, an onyx of Sf inches in di- 
ameter, with 20 beautiful figures; 
the onyx with the head of Alexander 
the Great, and his spouse, &c. N.B. 
— This cabinet is in connexion with 
that of coins and medals. Open on 
Mondays and Fridays, at 10. Cards 
of admission must be previously ap- 
plied for at the Cabinet itself. 

The Cabinet of Egyptian Anti- 
quities, adjoining the Ambras mu- 
seum, contains interesting remains 
from Egypt, both round and in bas- 
relief; numerous papyrus rolls, mum- 
mies, &c. 

Coins 8f Medals. — 'The Imperial 
Collection of coins and medals, in 
the Burg, contains above 134,000 
articles. 31,000 Greek, 25,000 Ro- 
man ; 30,000 duplicates and false 
moneys ; 16,200 medals, dollars, 
and false moneys of the middle ages, 
and modern times; 22,654 ducats 
and arroschens ; 500 bronze medals ; 
4,000 duplicates and false moneys, 
and 1920 oriental coins. The whole 
was systematically arranged in 1835, 
under the direction of his Excel- 
lency Count Maurice Dietrichstein. 
Admission, Mondays, and Fridays, 
by previous application, at 10 in the 
morning. 

The Imperial Zoological and Bo- 
tanical Cabinet, Joseph-square, easti 



of the Imperial Library, comprises 
450 species of mammiferous ani- 
mals, with 1100 specimens; 3,000 
species of birds,with 5,800 specimens, 
nests and eggs ; 550 species of am- 
phibious animals and reptiles, with 
2,800 specimens ; 450 species of 
fishes, with more than 1300 speci- 
mens ; 200 species of Mollusca, with 
700 specimens ; 3,200 species of con- 
chifera, with 16,000 specimens ; 500 
species of Crustacea, and 25,000 
species of insects, with innumerable 
specimens ; 500 species of zoophytes 
and starfishes, with 1400 specimens ; 
800 species of intestinal worms, and 
12,000 species of plants. Admission 
every Thursday, from 9 till 12. Pre- 
vious application for cards at the 
porter's. 

The Imperial Mineralogieal Ca- 
binet. Same building as above. 
Three halls containing more than 
100,000 specimens. Admission, 
every Wednesday and Saturday, from 
10 till 1. The latter day tickets 
are required. 

The Imperial Brazilian Museum. 
Same building. This forms a part 
of the above establishments. It con- 
tains 13 rooms, filled with all sorts 
of objects illustrative of the natural 
history of the Brazils. Admission, 
Saturdays, from 9 till 12. 

The Museum of the University, 
Schulgasse, No. 757. Two large 
halls of animals, birds, fishes, mine- 
rals, &c., and an adjacent room with 
skeletons. Admission is obtained of 
the servant. 

The Museum of the Josephine 
Academy, "Wiihringergasse, No 221 . 
This large establishment contains 
productions in all the different 
branches of natural history ; above 
4,000 anatomical-pathological pre- 
parations ; instruments of midwifery ; 
physical and geometrical instru- 
ments ; bandages and surgical ma- 
chines ; a pathological collection of 
bones ; and in seven spacious rooms, 



206 



ROUTE 32.— DRESDEN TO VIENNA. PART III. 



a splendid collection of anatomical 
wax-preparations, exactly repre- 
senting all the various parts of the 
human organization. Admission, on 
Saturday at 11 o'clock. Application 
must be made on the previous Thurs- 
day at the Prosector's of the Aca- 
demy, in the same building. 

Public Baths — These are gene- 
rally made of the water of the Da- 
nube, mixed with a larger or smaller 
quantity of water from the same 
river, warmed according to the plea- 
sure of the bather. The Bath of 
Diana, a neat and elegant house, 
erected in the suburb Leopoldstadt, 
near the bank of the Danube : on one 
side are apartments for men, and on 
the other for ladies ; in the centre is 
a hall, and behind it a small garden, 
where breakfast, dinner, supper, and 
refreshments of every kind may be 
procured. The apartments are pro- 
vided with linen and other neces- 
saries ; the price for a bath is two 
florins on the ground floor, and three 
florins on the first story. When 
rooms are provided with beds, ar- 
tificial baths, tfec, the price in- 
creases, according to the accommo- 
dation, to as much as seven florins. 

The most frequented bath next to 
the Diana, is the Kaiserbad, outside 
the new gate, where the price is 
from 1 florin 30 kreutzers to 4 flo- 
rins. There are similar baths in 
the suburbs of Leopoldstadt, Jaeger- 
zeil, at the entrance of the Prater, 
Landstrasse, Weissgaerber, Erdberg, 
<fec. ; the price is almost everywhere 
the same. 

Provisions and other necessary 
articles are cheaper at Vienna than 
at most of the capitals of Europe, or 
even at smaller cities with a much 
less population. Lodgings and fire- 
wood are the only dear articles com- 
pared with other things. 

Clubs — Of these there exist but 
two in Vienna. 

I'he Noblemen's Club, in the 
Renngasse, No. 139. This was 
only established in 1837. It is on a 



very handsome and elegant scale, 
its members being all of the highest 
nobility, with one or two of the first 
bankers. It is provided with an ex- 
cellent library, all permitted news- 
papers, good wines, cookery, &c. 
much on the plan of the best London 
clubs. Strangers must be intro- 
duced. 

The Merchant's Club. (Kauf- 
mannische Verein) Spiegelgasse, 
No 1096. Its members consist en- 
tirely of the mercantile class, who 
meet here for the purpose of re- 
creation rather than business. There 
are coffee room, billiard tables, li- 
brary and newspapers in all lan- 
guages. Strangers wishing to see 
the papers can be introduced by a 
member for one month gratis ; after 
that period the price is 2 fl CM. per 
month. 

Hackney Coaches, — There are 
about 700 hackney-coaches distri- 
buted in the squares and streets 
of the city and suburbs, before the 
gates of the city, and within the 
barriers of the line, and remain 
from seven in a morning till ten at 
night. The greater part of them 
are very neat, and many of them 
equal in elegance the carriages of 
private persons. Every hackney- 
coach proprietor is obliged to pay a 
tax of three florins every month. 
The hackney-coaches are not only 
used in the city and suburbs, but 
for many leagues in the country, as 
to Baden, to Neustadt, Presburg, &c. 

Their fares not being under any 
control, it is better to make an 
agreement before hiring them, as 
they are apt to impose on stran- 
gers. The usual price per hoar 
is 2 fl. W.W., or 48 kr. CM. 
For the afternoon, to go to 
some neighbouring village, (say, 
from four o'clock till nine) 8 fl. CM. 
For a whole day, one pays from 5 to 
8 fl. CM. according to distance and 
consequent fatigue of the horses. 

In bad weather, and on Sun- 
days, fete days, and extraordinary 
occasions, the price is increased. 



WURZBURG.— ROUTE 33. FRANKFORT TO VIENNA. 



207 



Each coach is numhered, and all 
are under the superintendence of 
a commissary of police, before 
whom complaints may be preferred. 

Though the hackney coaches are, 
perhaps, the best in Europe, the Jobs 
or Glass coaches are the most 
wretched tur^-outs anywhere to be 
met with. There are about 300 of 
them, and they are to be had on an 
average at 8 fl. CW. per day, or 
100 fl. per month. A trifle must be 
also reckoned for Trinkgeld ; which 
is not the case with hackney coaches. 
The usual place for hiring them 
is, at Jantschki's, Judenplatz, No. 
401. 

Sedan chairs were first used at 
Vienna in 1703. By a particular 
law they are forbidden to carry in- 
valids to the hospitals, or dead 
bodies. The bearers wear a red 
uniform ; the chairs, which are 
numbered, are distributed in dif- 
ferent parts of the town, and are 
constantly at the service of the 
public, day and night. There is 
no fixed price for them ; but 1 florin 
30 kreutzers is the usual charge for 
a fare in the city. The bearers are 
under the superintendence of the 
police. 

ROUTE 33. 

FROM FRANKFORT TO VIENNA BY 
KISSINGEN, NUREMBERG, AND BY 
THE DANUBE FROM RATISBON. 



Names of the Stages. 


German miles 


Hanau 


. 2 


Dettingen 


. 2 


Aschaffenburg 


'. li 


Rolirbrunn 


. 3 


Esselbach 


. 2 


Rossbrunn 


. 3 


Worzburg 


. 2 


Kissingen 


. 2 


Possenheim 


. 2 


Langenfeid 


. 2k 


Emskirchen . 


. 2 


Farnbach : 


. H 


Nuremberg 


. 2 


Feiicht 


. 2 


Nemiiarkt 


. 3 


Dasswang 


. 3 


Schambych 


. 2* 


Ratisbon 


. 3' ~ 



193 EHglish miles =42 



WURZBURG. 

Hotels. Le Cygne Blanc, La 
Cour d^ Allemagne ^ L^Aigle Noir. 

The capital of the Bavarian 
Grand Duchy of WUrzburg is situ- 
ated on the Maine, and has 24,000 
inhabitants. The ci-devant chateau 
of the prince-bishop is perhaps the 
finest in Germany. The fortress 
of Marienburg is on an eminence 
near the tovni ; it has an ancient 
churehj bearing this inscription, 
"Prima Ecclesia Francorum ;" a 
deep well, and an ai'senal; the 
view from the keep is splendid. 
This castle was despoiled of most of 
its pictures in 1804. The citadel, 
with its cellars, famous for their 
old wines, was pillaged by the 
Swedes, under Gustavus Adolphus, 
and, together with the arsenal, has 
remained empty to the present time. 
The other remarkable objects are, 
the great square, and the chapel of 
St. Mary; the cathedral, with a 
pulpit in the Gothic style ; the great 
hospital, called Julius Hospital ; 
the church and botanical garden 
belonging to the hospital; the 
bridge over the Maine ; and the 
fountain, ornamented with a beau- 
tiful obelisk. 

Promenades.— The most agreeable 
are : the square, where the military 
mount guard ; the prince's garden ; 
and the mountain of St. Nicholas, 
with the hospital of the Capuchins. 
This mountain and the hospital 
still exhibit traces of the siege in 
1800, when the citadel was so nobly 
defended. 

The best wines of Franconia are 
produced from the vineyards which 
surround WUrzburg, In the thir- 
teenth century the vineyards only 
occupied about 2,000 acres ; at pre- 
sent, it is calculated, that from 
10,000 to 20,000 are cultivated as 
vineyards. The wine, called Leiste, 
is considered the best of all the 
wines of Franconia. When it has 
acquired a certain age, it is equal 



208 



ROUTE 33. — FRANKFORT TO VIENNA. PART III. 



to pome of the best foreign wines. 
The genuine sort is produced from 
the -vineyard on the side of the for- 
tress, situated near the mountain of 
St. Nicholas. The Htein wine is 
more fiery than that of Leiste : it 
is sold under the name of Vin du 
St. Esprit, in sealed bottles. The 
wines of Escherndorff and Sohalks- 
berg are equal to the preceding, 
and are usually drunk out of small 
glasses like liqueurs. The wine of 
Calmut is nearly equal to the cele- 
brated wines of Hungary, and re- 
sembles Madeira. This wine is 
produced from a vineyard on the 
rock of Trilfenstein, near the 
Maine, on the side of Aschaffen- 
bourg. 

KISSINGEN. 

Few baths have come into such 
general repute within so short a 
period as Kissingen, as may be 
seen from the yearly increasing 
number of visitors, among whom 
there.have been many English of late 
years ; and there is perhaps no place 
about which so much has lately been 
written. The position of the town is 
elevated and cheerful, in an open part 
of the valley of the Saal, surrounded 
by meadows and corn-fields, and shel- 
tered from cold winds by high hills. 
The heat in summer is not oppressive ; 
but rain more frequently falls than at 
many other baths. The town is 
clean, and contains about 1,400 in- 
habitants; the two principal streets 
being wide, the houses large, and 
with good accommodations. The 
proprietors of the hotels are obliged 
by law to keep a certain number of 
apartments vacant, in order that 
persons newly arrived should not 
experience difficulty in lodging 
themselves, till such time as they 
can engage apartments. Many of 
tke visitors lodge at the Kurhaus^ 
a large establishment opposite the 
promenade, containing several bath 
cabinets, and a saloon where up- 
wards of 200 people sit down daily 



to, the table d'hote. The dinners 
here, and in the hotels, are ex- 
tremely plain : those sent to private 
houses are often very indifferent, so 
that the bon-vivaut would have little 
inducement to remain at Kissingen, 
unless for his health. In fact, as 
there are but few visitors for plea- 
sure, the tables d'hote are under sur- 
veillance of the authorities, and 
nothing is allowed to be served up 
that is likely to disagree or to inter- 
fere with the beneficial action of the 
waters. 

On the promenade opposite the 
Kurhaus are the three springs, the 
Ragozzi, Pandur, and Maxbrunnen, 
and on the bank of the river are the 
new and elegant kursaal and co- 
lonnade, erected by order of the pre- 
sent king, for occasional balls and 
reunions, and exercise in wet wea- 
ther. There is, however, but little 
amusement of this kind at Kissingen, 
owing to the comparative absence of 
yoang people, the greater number of 
the visitors being middle-aged in- 
valids. Gaming is in full activity 
within the kursal, being tolerated by 
the government. 

The Maxbrunnen is a saline aci- 
dulous spring, very analogous to that 
of Belters, though it contains less 
salt, especially muriate of soda, and 
is much more gaseous (31 cubic 
inches to the pint). It differs from 
the Sinnburg and Wernarz springs at 
Bruckenau, inasmuch as these are 
purely gaseous, and scarcely contain 
any saline substance. It is not un- 
frequently used as a cooling drink in 
summer, or mixed with wine at 
dinner, and may be used medicinally 
in similar cases as the Seltzer water. 

The Ragozzi is the spring gene- 
rally employed for drinking. Its 
taste is saline, sometimes more 
piquant than at others, and is not 
disagreeable after the first glass or 
two. It contains a large quantity 
of muriate of soda and other salts, 
nearly three quarters of a grain of 
iron, and twenty-six cubic inches of 



KISSINGEN. ROUTE 33. — FRANKFORT TO VIENKA. 



209 



carbonic acid gas to the pint. Most 
persons are recommended to drink 
the prescribed quantity of water 
in the morning fasting, and not to 
take any in the after part of the day. 
In some robust and plethoric per- 
sons, owing to the quantity of gas 
and iron, the water would be likely 
to disagree without some preparatory 
treatment ; and it is often not well 
borne by those of an irritable habit, 
or who have naturally a quick pulse. 
In some cases where a more active 
effect on the bowels is desired, Dr. 
Balling recommends drinking the 
Pandur, though this spring is prin- 
cipally employed for baths. So long 
as patients take the Ragozzi water 
without dislike, or with a degree of 
relish, the object of the course is not 
yet accomplished ; and it should be 
continued for a longer period. As 
soon, however, as critical evacuations 
occur, and the patient acquires a 
dislike to the water, with a sense of 



would be very efficacious in many 
cases of dyspepsia, arising from ex- 
cess in the pleasures of the table, or 
the abuse of ardent spirits, and at- 
tended with heartburn, acrid eruc- 
tations or pyrosis. With respect 
to gout, Dr. Wendt observes, " as 
long as the gout in its various fornii; 
is combined with increased sensi- 
bility or susceptibility to exterior 
impressions, Weisbadenis calculated 
to render more service ; but when it 
arises from obstruction in the abdo- 
minal viscera, and torpidity in the 
circulation of the vena portse and the 
skin, the Pandur baths are prefer- 
able." I do not, however, consider 
Weisbaden to be so applicable to 
cases of gout in persons of high ner- 
vous susceptibility, or of an inflam- 
matory habit, as it is to those of long 
standing and hereditary,in individuals 
somewhat advanced in life. Dr. 
Maas observes, that in cases of gout, 
complicated with deranged digestion, 



unpleasantness in the stomach, then ! Kissingen is most applicable. 



the point of saturation is attained. 
This occurs at very dififerent times 
in different individuals, but rarely 
before twenty -one days. 

The combination of stimulating, 
solvent, and tonic powers of the 
Ragozzi waters, renders them most 
suited to those states of disease, 
connected with, or dependent on, 
abdominal plethora, liver congestion, 
and obstruction of the circulation of 
the vena portas, which chiefly occurs 
in persons of middle age. A de- 



The Pandur spring contains less 
salt and iron, but more gas than the 
E-agozzi ; its action, when drunk, is 
very similar, though rather more 
solvent and exciting than the Ea- 
gozzi. on which account it is better 
adapted to some torpid habits, where 
the object is to affect more promptly 
and surely the intestinal canal. Used 
in the for.n of bath, it not unfrequently 
produces increase of pains, and other 
critical symptoms, or eruption on the 
skin, and is very serviceable in some 



ranged state of stomach and bowels, states of disordered health in hys 



with difficult digestion, or feeling of 
unusual distention after eating, con- 
stipation, piles, a disordered state of 
the skin, with eruptions, especially 
about the face ; many affections to 
which females are peculiarly liable ; 
hypochondriasis, gout, when recent 
and not occurring in old people, and 
scrofulous affections of the glands, 
are among the complaints most likely 
to be cured or relieved by a course of 
the Ragozzi, combined with baths 
of the Pandur. The same means 



terieal young females, in which the 
internal use of the Ragozzi may be 
advantageously added to the baths. 
Where these complaints, as well as 
hypochondriasis, are dependent upon 
nervous irritability, without visce^-al 
obstruction or undue determination 
of blood to particular organs, a spring 
of a different kind is indicated. 

Besides the above-mentioned, there 
are also saline springs about a mile 
distant from the town, from which a 
considerable quajitity of salt is ob- 



210 



ROUTE 33.— FRANKFORT TO VIENNA, PART III, 



tained, and whieli are also employed 
medicinally, chiefly as baths. One 
of these springs, the Soolensprudel, 
presents the curious phenomenon of 
ebbing and flowing at stated inter- 
vals. After the water has occupied 
the same level for some hours, a deep 
rumbling noise is heard, and it de- 
scends in the well twelve or sixteen 
feet, whence it gradually remounts to 
its former level. Of late years the 
water rises and falls some six or 
eight times in the space of twenty- 
four hours, nearly an hour being 
required for its rise, and as much for 
its fall. The temperature of the 
spring is 16 deg. Reaumer (68 deg. 
Fahrenheit). According to Kastner, 
a pint of water contains 107 grains 
of muriate of soda, 24 grains muriate 
of magnesia, 25 sulphate of lime, 
6 carbonate of magnesia, 3 of muriate 
ot lime, with smaller portions of 
potass, iron, <fec.j and 30§ cubic 
inches of carbonic acid gas. The 
mother-water, or strong brine, which 
remains in the reservoir after the 
crystallization of the salt, is some- 
times added to the baths, from which 
an idea may be formed of their ex- 
citing property. They are strongly 
recommended in glandular enlarge- 
ments of a scrofulous nature, in 
obstinate rheumatic afi^ections, and 
long standing cutaneous afiVctions. 

From the richness of these springs 
in carbonic acid, baths and douches 
of this gas have been established. 
They excite powerfully the nervous 
and vascular systems— the part in 
contact with the gas experiencing a 
sensation of heat and tingling, — and 
are highly efficacious in certain cases 
of nervous torpidity, paralysis, or neu- 
ralgia, and especially when theorgans 
of sense are affected, without vascular 
erethism, as in some kinds of amau- 
rosis and deafness. A surgeon at- 
tends at the establishment to super- 
intend the employment of these 
baths. 

NUREMBERG. 

Jnns, Motel de Baviere. a first- 



rate establishment in the centre ot 
the town, newly furnished, and well; 
conducted. .^ 

Hotel de Wittlesbach, near the^ 
post office, also a good, comfortable 
house, and well situated in the 
Grande Place de Joseph. 

The 70,000 inhabitants who dwelt 
formerly within the walls of Nurem- 
berg are now diminished to 43,000^ 
That which was once the greatest 
and most wealthy of all the free im- 
perial cities, the residence of em- 
perors, the seat of diets, the focus 
of the trade of Asia and Europe, 
the most important manufacturing 
town in Germany, the home of Ger- 
man freedom and art, the cradle of 
the fine arts, of poetry (in its un- 
couth infancy, it is true), and of 
almost numberless useful inventions 
— which was alternately the courted 
ally and the dreaded rival of sove- 
reign princes, had degenerated from 
the latter part of the l7th to the 
beginning of the 19th century into a 
dull provincial town. Forsaken by 
its ancient commerce, it might be 
compared to one of the galleons of 
its own merchants of former days, 
abandoned by the receding tide. Its 
manufactures, once so universally 
known and prized in all parts of the 
world as to give rise to a proverb, — 
" Nuremberg's hand goes through 
every land," were reduced to dribble 
in lead pencils, pill boxes, and chil- 
dren's toys. 

It has, however, of late years, ex- 
perienced a considerable revival of 
prosperity ; and in spite of all this 
change of fortune and condition, as 
a city it remains almost unaltered,, 
retaining, probably more than any 
other in Europe, the aspect of times 
long gone by. It is surrounded by 
feudal walls and turrets (of which 
in former days it boasted to possess 
365), faced and strengthened in 
more recent times, when the influ- 
ence of gunpowder began to be felt, 
by ramparts and incipient bastions, 
resembling the earlj Italian mode of 



BAVARIA. — ROtJTE 33. NUREMBERG. 



211 



modern fortification. These again 
are enclosed by a ditch 100 ft. wide 
and 50 ft. deep, lined throughout 
with masonry. Its four principal 
arched gates are flanked by massive 
cylindrical watch towers, no longer 
of use as fortifications, but pictu- 
resque in a high degree, and serving 
to complete the coronet of antique 
towers which encircle the city, as 
seen from a distance. The stranger 
arrived within its walls might fancy 
himself carried back to a distant 
century, as he threads its irregular 
streets, and examines its quaint 
gable-faced houses. Its churches 
and other public edifices, monuments 
of the piety and charity of its citi- 
zens, are singularly perfect ; having 
escaped unharmed the storm of war, 
sieges, and even of the reformation, 
which its inhabitants adopted at an 
early period, and without any out- 
break of iccnoclasm. Its private 
buildings, including the palace-like 
mansions of its patrician citizens and 
merchant nobles, having been built 
of stone, are equally well preserved. 
Many of them are still inhabited by 
the families whose forefathers origi- 
nally constructed them. Though 
built in the prevailing fashion of the 
period, with narrow, but highly orna- 
mented fronts, and acutely pointed 
gables, they are often of large size, 
inclosing two or three courts, and 
extending back from one street into 
another. The ground story, low and 
vaulted, was usually occupied as a 
warehouse; the habitable part, 
though not laid out in a manner con- 
sistent with modern ideas of com- 
fort, was richly decorated with 
carving and stucco ; indeed, an an- 
cient author (iEneas Sylvius), speak- 
ing of the splendour of Nuremberg, 
declares that a simple citizen was 
better lodged than the King of Scot- 
land. An additional interest is re- 
flected upon this venerable city, by 
the fame and works of the great 
artists it has produced, such as 
Albert Durer, Peter Vischer, Adam 



Kraf, Veit Stoss, &c. ; and though 
stripped, to a great extent, of these 
treasures, in consequence of public 
and private poverty, she owes her 
chief ornaments to the productions 
of their skill still remaining. It 
will thus be easily understood that 
Nuremberg, though dull in a com- 
mercial sense, will afford to the 
tiraveller of taste high entertainment 
for a residence of several days. In 
its ancient and palmy state, when 
the seat of arts and of far more ex- 
tensive commerce than at present, 
it was termed the Gothic Athens; 
it may now be regarded as a sort of 
Pompeii of the middle ages. 

The following are the principal 
objects of attraction in this town : 
the town-house, a large building, 
containing sev<='ral remarkable pic- 
tures ; frescoes by Albert Durer, 
which have, however, been re- 
touched ; the triumphal car of 
the Emperor Maximilian ; portraits 
of citizens of Nuremberg who have 
founded charitable institutions ; the 
imperial castle, called K-eichsfest^, 
or die Burg, with a gallery of 
pictures belonging partly to the king 
and partly to the town ; the cathe- 
dral, with St. Sebald's tomb, the 
pictures of Wohlgemuth, Duren, of 
John de Culmbach, Creuzfelder, &c. ; 
beautiful painted glass, sculptures by 
Kraft, and a crucifix by Stess ; there 
is a brass crucifix outside, between 
the two towers, in the court of the 
parish of St. Sebald, where Dean 
Pfinsing wrote his work called the 
Theuerdank ; the choir of this church 
is a master- piece of antique art ; the 
church of the Holy Ghost, where the 
ornaments used at the coronation of 
the emperors of Germany were for- 
merly kept, which are now in the 
imperial treasury at Vienna; St. 
Lawrence's church with its painted 
glass ; St. Eloy's church, with a 
splendid picture by Vandyk, and 
several other churches ; St. John's 
burying ground, which holds the 
ashes of K. Durer of Wirtheimer 



212 



ROUTE 33. — RATISBON TO LINTZ. PART III. 



and of J. de Sandrack ; tlie chain , 
bridge ; the fountain in the market 
place: the subterraneous chapel of 
St. Sebald ; the Margrafen Fenster ; 
the conservatory of antiquities ; the 
custom-house, which was formerly 
the arsenal ; the great scales ; the 
town library in the building which 
was formerly the Dominican con- 
vent ; considerable collections of 
objects of natural history, of art, 
and of science ; Mr, Campe's picture 
gallery; Mr. Frauenholz's handsome 
cabinet of objects of art; the society 
called the Blumenorden of the Peg- 
nitz (an academy for floral games, 
resembling those of Toulouse) ; the 
drawing academy; the polytechnic 
school, the anatomical theatre, the 
society for the encouragement of 
industry in Franconi, the gymna- 
sium, the technical school, a richly- 
endowed hospital, an asylum for 
orphaos, and many other charita- 
ble establishment^ ; the museum, 
several fountains and jets d'eau. 

The Trodel Market, in an island 
of the Pregnitz, is the most pictu- 
resque group of pawnbrokers' stalls in 
the world. The wooden houses, 
their inhabitants, and their wares, 
all belong to by-gone times ; and many 
a relic of quaint old Burgher habits, 
or fragments of domestic luxury un-^ 
known to modern comfort, may be 
picked up by the curious collector. 

The manufactures of Nuremberg 
seem again to be in the ascendant; 
at present they include cloth, brass 
and bronze wares, mirrors, and tin 
and lackered ware and furniture ; 
much steel and brass ware is sent to 
America. 

Nuremberg exports to all parts of 
the globe, the chief supply of chil- 
dren's toys, known in England as 
Dutch toys ; an inappropriate name, 
since they are mostly made by the 
peasants of the Thuringian Forest, 
who employ themselves and their 
families on such labours, during the 
winter months, and by their frugal 
habits, are enabled to produce them 



at a surprising low price. Lead 
pencils are made here in large quan- 
tities ; they are inferior to the Eng- 
lish, but often bear the name of 
English makers, and are sometimes 
sent over to England and re-im- 
ported, in order to confirm the 
forgery. Nuremberg is even now a 
main depot for goods passing from 
the South to the North of Europe 
and vice versa. Houses and pro- 
perty within the town have doubled 
in value within 30 or 40 years. 

RATISBON. 

Inns. Crootd^ Or ^ Three Casques. 

Ratisbon, called in German Ke- 
gensburg, was formerly a free and 
imperial town, but is now the capi- 
tal of the circle of Regen, in the 
kingdom of Bavaria ; it lies on the 
right bank of the Danube, and eon- 
tains 2,500 houses and 22,000 in- 
habitants. 

Among the public buildings, &c., 
the following deserve notice ; Maxi- 
milian strasse, a remarkably fine 
street ; the old and celebrated bridge 
over the Danube ; the cathedral, a 
handsome old gothic building con- 
taining Dalberg's monument by 
Luigi Zendomeneghi ; the ci-devant 
abbey of St. Emmeran, at present 
the residence of the Prince of Taxis, 
and the repository of his rich col- 
lections ; the observatory ; the bota- 
nical garden ; St. Emmeran's church, 
with the old chapel containing several 
charming pictures; several other 
churches, the Scotch convent, and 
the church of the Holy Trinity, 
which is now in the possession of the 
Calvinists, and whose lofty arched 
roof is not supported by a single 
pillar ; the handsome square called 
Neupfarreplatz ; the house called 
Unterhaltungshaus, comprising in 
itself a theatre, assembly room, club, 
and restaurateur's establishment; the 
lyceum, and gymnasium ; the town 
library, formed by the union of three 
collections; the botanical society 
and their gardens. 



DANUBE. — ROUTE 33. EATISBON TO LINT«. 



213 



The diet of the German empire 
sat in this town from 1662 to 1802, 
when it was dissolved. The town- 
house is an ancient edifice ; it is at 
the head quarters of the police, and 
the state lottery oflSice; some old 
pictures are to be seen here. There 
are several mills and hydraulic 
machines on the banks of the 
Danube. 

The chief amusements of the 
place are balls, concerts, assemblies, 
and the theatre. Among the pro- 
menades and excursions we may 
mention the Taxis Alley, which is 
in fact a park ; Oberwordt and 
Niederwordt, the Linden trees, the 
Bridge, Birgeleut, Burgweinting. 
Ueberisling, the Chartreuse, Zie- 
gelsdorf, Dechhalten, Prufenig, 
Maria Ort, Adlersberg, Winzer, 
Eainhausen, Zuteldorn, Donaustauf, 
Tegernheim, and Weichs ; the mo- 
numents of Kepler, of Zoller, Gru- 
ber, Anselmo of Taxis, of Gleichen 
and of George, which has been 
lately renewed. 

Steam Packets down the Danube 
to Lintz corresponding with the 
Austrian boats from Lintz to Vi- 
enna daily from the 1st of May at 
seven in the morning. Fares : first 
cabin, 12 florins; second cabin, 8 
florins ; carriages, 30 florins. 

The first station after leaving 
Eatisbon is 

Straubing, a town on the right 
bank of the Danube. The beautiful 
collegiate church, the ci-devant col- 
lege of Jesuits, and the convent of 
the Carmelites, in which is the 
tomb of Duke Albert ; are the most 
remarkable objects. In the vicinity 
is the pilgrimage of Sossau, and 
the abbey of Ober Altaich, which 
has a large library. The famous 
crucibles of Passau are made of 
silver ore which is hardened with 
clay. These crucibles, as well as 
an excellent kind of black earthen- 
ware, are made at Hafnerzell a 
short distance from Passau. 

From Eatisbon to Straubing the 



distance by land is five and half 
German miles. This part of the 
stream is very slow, and not the 
most agreeable, although the left 
bank is pretty, particularly near 
Donaustauf, where there are the 
ruins of the chateau. The right 
bank is tame, flat, and exposed to 
inundations, but very fertile ; here 
is the celebrated district called 
Dunkelboden, which furnishes so 
much corn, making its inhabitants 
rich, prodigal, and proud. In this 
space the Danube receives the Ee- 
gen, the Wisent, the Platter, the 
great and the little Laber. At Sos- 
sau there is a celebrated image of 
our Lady, and the convent of Wind- 
berg; the Sossau dike also deserves 
notice. 

The voyage from Straubing to 
Bogen is short and uninteresting. 
You pass by the mouths of the 
Aitrach, the Kinzach, the Bogen ; 
and the Mannach- Ober- Altaich, 
which was formerly a rich Bene- 
dictine Abbey, is on the site where 
druidical altars formerly existed. 
Bogenberg has a church to which 
pilgrimages are made, and the 
ruins of the chateau of the dukes 
of Bogen, who were formerly very 
powerful. 

From Bogenberg to Nieder- 
Altaich the voyage is much longer, 
but more agreeable. You pass by 
the mouths of the Schwarzach and 
the Isar. The right bank is still 
flat, but the left is embellished by 
very fine mountain prospects. 
Among the first six or eight places 
on the left is Pfelling, which sends 
a great quantity of wood to "Vienna ; 
on the right is the village of Erl- 
bach, with the chateau and beauti- 
ful gardens of Count Debray. Near 
Maria and Stephan-Posching, the 
country becomes more and more 
beautiful, and reaches its highest 
point at Deggendorf On the right 
is the magnificent mountain Nat- 
ternberg, which stands alone in an 
immense plain; this mountain, 



214 



POUTB 33. — RATISBON TO LINTZ. 



with the ruins of a castle called 
Natternberg, is a splendid object. 
On the left, the Bohemian forest 
reaches the clouds with its gigantic 
heights : among them are the two 
Gssa, Rachel, Arber, and the great 
Bogen. The traveller, while gazing 
on this charming prospect, almost 
overlooks the ci-devant Benedictine 
Abbey of Metten. The Danube is 
here very wide ; Deggendorf con- 
tains 3,000 inhabitants, is small 
but handsome ; pilgrimages are 
made to this place. There is a fine 
view from Mount Greising : the 
old and magnificent chateau of 
Eck, which is still inhabited, is 
situated in a beautiful country, 
four English miles north-east of 
Deggendorf. The Isar, near its 
confluence with the Danube, is 
filled with islands and meadows. 
At Platting they make the rafts 
which go down the river to Vienna 
Moos is a village, with the chateau 
and gardens of Count Pregsing. 
On the left is Nieder-Altaich, a ci- 
devant Benedictine Abbey, most 
beautifully situated ; farther are 
the chateau and town of Hengers- 
berg. 

Erom Nieder-Altaich to Passau 
the environs insensibly become 
more picturesque — first forming a 
plain ; then Osterhofen, an ancient 
place, with its towers, and a ci- 
devant convent ; the beautiful ruins 
of the chateau of Hoch-Winzer ; 
Hofkirchen, with the splendid 
ruins of a chateau ; and on the 
right Kinzing, or Kinzen, the Castra 
quintana of the Romans ; Pieinting, 
which lies in a beautiful situation 
on the right, and the picturesque 
ruins of the chateau of Hildgards- 
berg (commonly called Ickersberg) 
on the left, precede your entry into 
the charming valley through which 
the Danube flows, for sxity English 
miles. Vilshofen is on the right, 
at the mouth of the Vils ; Windorf, 
where a number of boats are built ; 
the little village of Hansbach, and 



Sandbach, which is dreaded on 
account of the rocky bed of the 
river. The mountains become 
higher as you advance. Near 
Gaishofen the Gaisbach falls into 
the Danube on its left baak ^ 
Doblestein is on the right. 

Passau, on the banks of the 
Danube, was formerly the capital of 
the bishopric of Passau, but is now a 
Bavarian town ; it has 800 houses, 
with 12,000 inhabitants. This 
town may be considered as the 
Coblentz of the Danube, being 
situated at the confluence of the 
Inn and the Ilz. 

The most remarkable objects 
are the new bridge over the 
Danube ; a new gate, in the Roman 
style ; the Castle ; the Cathedral, 
with its two towers ; the ci-devant 
Jesuits' College, with a Gothic 
portal ; the Convent of our Lady 
of Good Aid, with a fine view ; a 
chapel, to which pilgrimages are 
made ; and a madhouse. This 
town has also a School of Industry, 
a Lyceum, and a Library. The 
principal branches of industry 
pursued here are ship-building, 
navigation, the manufacture of 
tobacco and porcelain, and the 
washingthe sands of the Inn for gold. 

Passau is celebrated for the con- 
vention concluded in 1552 between 
the Emperor Charles V and the 
Protestant states of the empire, 
three years before the religious 
peace of Augsburg. The wolfe 
blades, so famous in the thirty 
years' war, and the Passau art, or* 
art of becoming invulnerable by a 
charm, are now almost forgotten 

Opposite to Passau, on the banks 
of the Danube, lies Hafnerzell, or 
Obernzell, a market town, with 
2,500 inhabitants ; it is here that 
the earthenware is made, known 
under the name of Passau ware, 
and particularly the crucibles, 
many of which can hold as much 
as 2,000 marks of silver ; they are 
exported as far as America. 



DANUBE. — ROUTE 33. — EATISBON TO LINTZ. 



215 



Prom Passau to Engelhardszell, 
which contains the Austrian cus- 
tom house, the distance is twelve 
Enghsh miles. The views are ex- 
tensive and extremely picturesque, j 
The gloomy Felsenburg, with the ! 
walls of Oberhaus and Unterhaus, j 
is on the right, on the banks of the j 
river Itz ; while on the left is seen J 
the extremity of a forest, behind ! 
which rises the mountain called | 
Mariahilf. You next admire the 
superb vaUeys of the Danube and j 
the Ine ; in short, one splendid j 
view is immediately succeeded by } 
another. The right bank of the | 
Achleiten belongs to Austria. The j 
chateau of Kranpenstein is situated i 
on a wall of pointed rocks, com- j 
monly called Schueider-Schlbssel. 
At Hafner, or Oberzell, black lead 
is employed for several important 
purposes, particularly for the mak- 
ing of crucibles. You then come 
to the chateau of Fichtenstein, and 
the new chateau which stands by 
its side. On the left are the villages 
of Obergrunau and Untergrunau, 
situated in the middle of large 
orchards by the side of a sterile 
wall of rocks. The Jochenstein 
is in the middle of the Danube. At 
no great distance is the Austrian 
frontier, on the left bank, near the 
rivulet Diahndl, where are to be 
seen the ruins of the ancient Ried. 
Engelhardszell is 231 English miles 
from Ulm, and 120 from Eatisbon, 
following the course of the Da- 
nube. 

LlNTZ, 

Inns. Cannon d'Or, Lion d'Or, 
L'Oie Blaiiche. 

Lintz contains 26,000 inhabitants, 
and is the chief town in Upper Aus- 
tria, situated on the Danube. The 
great square, ornamented with a 
column; the castle, commanding a 
fine view ; the theatre, the library, 
the cabinet of philosophy, the state 
house, the college du Nord, the 
college of the ci-devant Jesuits, the 
lyceum, the collection of philoso- 



phical instruments, and the great 
manufactory of woollen articles, 
are all worthy the attention of 
travellers. The garden of the castle 
and the hunting house command 
fine views. The French took this 
place in 1801, and Bonaparte 
established his head-quarters here 
on the 5th of November, 1805, when 
he had a long conference with Count 
de Giulay, the ambassador of the 
Emperor of Austria, 

The Austrian company's steam- 
boats leave Lintz every morning 
at seven o'clock for Vienna, from 
the 1st of June, till the 30th of 
September. Fares (in nine hours) : 
first cabin, 9 fl. ; second cabin, 6fl., 
Carriages, 20 fl. 

On the left after leaving Lintz 
is to be seen Spielberg with its 
chateau; and a splendid ruin on a 
rock in the Danube. At Matthau- 
sen there is a very fine view of 
the river and mountains from the 
curate's garden. The chateau and 
village of Kiederwallsee are in the 
country on the right, and possess 
some traces of Roman antiquities. 
On the left is Grein, a small town 
and chateau, situated on a moun- 
tain, with all sorts of curiosities 
and splendid views; among them 
is a place where the river whirls 
round so as to form a kind of 
funnel; this eddy is called Wirhel 
und Strudel, and sometimes Greiner 
Schwall: those who choose to land 
here will find a very pleasant cross- 
road leading to the little house 
below the eddy, from the balcony 
of which it can be very conveni- 
ently viewed. On the right is the 
Artaker, with a view of the beau- 
tiful mountain called Ottilienberg. 
Near the town of Molk is a rich 
and splendid abbey of Benedictine 
monks, who are zealously employed 
in forming collections of books, me- 
dals, shells, and minerals. The 
town and chateau of Persenberg 
are on the left. 

Mariataferl, a celebrated place of 



216 



ROUTE 34.— FRANKFORT TO CARLSBAD. PART III. 



pilgrimage, situated on a moun- 
tain, together with the chateaux 
of Weiteneck ^d Lubereck. Be- 
tween Schwallenbach and Spitz 
is the wall called Teufelsmauer, 
or Devil's Wall, which is a geo- 
logical curiosity; and near Spitz 
are to be seen the ruins of the 
fortress. Hinterhaus has a watch- 
tower of immense size. Wassen- 
dorf and Weisskirchen have beau- 
tiful Gothic churches, and some 
picturesque ruins. The little town 
of Durrenstein has a fine steeple 
and several handsome buildings. 
The ruins of the chateau behind 
the town are extremely pictur- 
esque; this was the prison of Ki- 
chard Cceur de Lion. The view 
from the ruins is remarkably fine. 
On the right is Schonbuhel, a vil- 
lage with a convent of Servites, 
and the ruins of the chateau of 
Schonbuhel. On the left is Stein; 
Krems, with St Vitus's church, 
is separated from it only by an 
alley. Between these two towns, 
and not far from the river, is the 
monument of General Schmidt. 
The ruins of the ci-devant Char- 
treuse convent are in a narrow 
mountainous pass on the right 
near Klein Aggsbach. In the 
environs is Langeck, a Servite 
convent, with one of the finest 
churches in Austria, containing 
several beautiful frescoes. Agg- 
stein is remarkable for the ruins 
of its chateau. On the left is 
Kornenburg, with several churches. 
Vienna described at page 200. 

EOUTE 34. 

FRANKFORT TO CARLSBAD, THROUGH 
WURZBURG, BAMBERG, BAIREUTH, 
AND EGRA. 



Names of the stages. 


German miles 


Wurzburg 


. 15^ 


Dettelbach . 


2 


Neuss 


2 


Burgwenheim 


2 


Bamberg 


1 


Wurgau 


2 


Hohfeld 


2 


Baireuth 


3 



Names of the stages. 
Berneeke 
Weissenstadt . 
Thiersheim . 
Egra 

Zwoda . 

Carlsbad 



German miles. 
2 
. 2i 
2 

3 
3 



E. miles 294, G. miles, 44^ 

Wurzhurg described at page 210. 

From Dettelbach there is a well 
kept paved road to Wurgau. In 
the church of the Franciscans is a 
miraculous virgin. Between Det- 
telbach and Neuss the traveller 
crosses the Maine. On the left 
bank is seen the former convent 
of Sell war zach. 

Neuss. — Between Burgwenheim 
and Neuss, the traveller passes 
the ancient abbey of Eberach. The 
church built in the thirteenth cen- 
tury was remarkable for its moun- 
ments. The hearts of the princes 
and bishops of Wurzburg were 
deposited there after death. The 
road from Eberach to Bamberg is 
varied and pleasant. 

Bamberg is a town situated at 
the confluence of the Maine and 
the Rednitz. The most remark- 
able buildings are : the castle, the 
imperial hall, the hospital, the 
harbour on the Rednitz,the lyceura, 
and the baths of Bay re on 
the Rednitz. This town has ma- 
nufactories of printed cottons, and 
two fairs are annually held here, 
one in spring the other in au- 
tumn. The liquorice and plums 
which grow in the environs are 
excellent. Of the latter the inha-^ 
bitants make prunes, a consider- 
able quantity of which are sent to 
Holland. The promenade of Busch 
is a favourite resort. 

Between Bamberg and Wurgau 
the traveller passes near Seehof, 
a neat pleasure house commanding 
a varied and extensive prospect. 
Altenberg is in a delightful situ- 
ation in the environs of Bamberg. 

From Wurgau to Hohfeld, the 
road, which is on an ascent, is very 



BOHEMIA. — ^ROUTE 34. CARLSBAD. 



217 



good. The road gradually im- 
proves on approaching the fron- 
tiers of Baireuth, and the remain- 
der of it is paved. Not far from 
Baireuth the traveller passes near 
the ci-devant castle of the Mar- 
grave, now only remarkable for 
its solitude, and the marks of de- 
cay which its buildings present. 
On the side of the road is a linden 
tree of enormous dimensions, and 
on a large rock near it may be 
seen the German inscription en- 
graved by the French emigrants, 
in 1796, in honour of the Prussian 
minister, Baron Hardenberg. 

Baireuth is a neat and well-built 
town. The principal objects of 
curiosity are the new castle and 
its garden, the statue of the Mar- 
grave, St George's, the porcelain 
manufactory, the hermitage, a de- 
lightful garden about a league 
from the town; and the temple of 
the Sun, the marble columns of 
which are very lofty and striking. 
There is a road from Baireuth 
to Nuremberg, passing through 
Creussen, Pegnitz, Hilpolstein, and 
Eschenau. Some persons piefer 
the old road through Streitberg 
and Erlangen, although rugged 
and difficult, on account of its 
romantic beauties, and its vicinity 
to the grottoes of Muggendorf, 
which are worthy of attention. 

The paved road extends from 
Baireuth as far as Egra. On leav- 
ing Baireuth, the traveller may 
see to the left a monument to the 
memory of a servant who broke 
his neck by a fall from his horse, 
when preceding the carriage of 
the Margrave. Not far from Ber- 
necke the road crosses a bridge 
over the Main, 

Bernecke is in a very picture 
esque situation. On the summit 
of a neighbouring mountain are 
the ruins of several castles and 
chapels. 

Gfraes is a small market-town 
on the road to Weisenstadt. The 



Moulin a tan, and the LohmuUer, 
are famous for the excellence of 
their trout. The villages and mar- 
ket-towns exhibit the opulence of 
this beautiful country, which has 
the appearance of a Swiss land- 
scape. Between Thiersheim and 
Egra is the Bohemian custom- 
house. 

Egra is a strong town. The 
town-house contains several old 
pictures. The house in which Ge- 
neral Waldstein, a famous officer 
in the 30 years' war, was assassi- 
nated, is still shown, as well as 
his portrait ; the halberd made 
use of by the murderer is kept in 
the armoury at Dux. At the cita- 
del are the remains of a chapel 
with beautiful marble columns. 
In the environs of the town are 
mines of lead, alum, &c. 

CARLSBAD. 

The position of Carlsbad is in 
the highest degree picturesque, 
and agreeably impresses the stran- 
ger on his arrival. It lies along 
the banks of the little river Tepl, 
in a narrow winding valley, en- 
closed between lofty hills, cloath- 
ed to their summits with the pine, 
beech, and ash, and on which nu- 
merous paths easy of ascent have 
been constructed, leading to points 
which command extensive views 
of the surrounding country. There 
are several houses of entertain- 
ment within a short distance, si- 
tuated in beautiful spots, to which 
visitors are in the habit of resort- 
ing in the afternoon to take tea 
or other refreshments, and the 
beauty of the environs is a strong 
inducement for more distant ex- 
cursions. The chief point of re- 
union is the Wiese, where the 
valley is somewhat wider, so as 
to admit rows of trees and booths 
between the houses and the river. 
At the end of this promenade are 
the two principal restaurateurs 
and public rooms, the salles de 

L 



218 



KOUTE 34. — CARLSBAD. PAET III. 



Saxe and de jBoheme, where din- 
ners are served a la carte or at a 
fixed price a head, and where 
concerts are occasionally given. 

Carlsbad ofiers but few resour- 
ces for the amusement of the idler, 
being chiefly resorted to by in- 
valids. There is not that indis- 
criminate mixture of society, 
which is met with at other baths, 
where the goddess of pleasure has 
numerous votaries. There are no 
balls ; and games of hazard, which 
at some other places attract a 
crowd of adventurers, are not al- 
lowed, neither are there tables 
d'hote, and the dishes served up 
at dinner are generally plain, ma- 
ny articles which would be likely 
to interfere with the action of the 
waters being prohibited by the 
medical censors, whose authority, 
if not openly exercised, is at 
least tacitly admitted by hotel- 
keepers, and traiteurs, so that in- 
vaUds have seldom the opportu- 
nity of committing th©se errors in 
diet which so frecLuently render 
nugatory a course of mineral 
waters. 

The Wiese, so called because 
it was formerly a meadow, is cer- 
tainly the most healthy and agree- 
able part of Carlsbad, and is 
therefore usually chosen by the 
visitors as a place of residence, 
although many persons of distinc- 
tion also lodge in the market- 
place. The Wiese consists of a 
long range of houses, in front of 
which is a parade planted with 
chesnut trees, extending as far as 
the banks of the river Topel. The 
ground floors of the houses are 
occupied by shops and ware- 
houses. 

The springs whose salutary qua- 
lites have rendered Carlsbad so 
celebrated, are : 

The Sprudel, which is the 
principal spring, and is said to 
have been discovered by the Em- 
peror Charles IV, when hunting 



in the year 1319. The tradition 
is, that a stag pursued by the 
dogs threw himself into the spring, 
which caused it first to be observ- 
ed. For this reason also the rock 
from whence he precipitated him- 
self, is still called the Hirsch- 
sprung, (stag's leap). The basin 
of the Sprudel is considered unique, 
and is one of the most curi- 
ous reservoirs in existence. Na- 
ture has formed it of the calca- 
reous particles carried along by 
the water, and has covered it 
with a triple arch. The average 
heat of this spring is said to be 
165 degrees of Farenheit. A pa- 
rade and a grand saloon serve as 
promenades for those who drink, 
the waters. 

The Nevbrunnen, or new spring, 
which is not so warm as that of 
the Sprudel, but has been very 
much in vogue for some years 
past. At this place, also, is the 
Miihlenbad and the Theresien- 
brunnen, with a house built by 
the Empress Maria Theresa, the 
ground-floor of which contains 
some pretty baths and apartments 
for the bathers. 

The Schlossbrunnen, or castle 
spring, which was the last discover- 
ed, has also been very fashionable 
for some time : it contains a 
greater quantity of gas than the 
others, and its temperature is 
from 120 to 125 degrees of Fah- 
renheit ; this spring is much fre- 
quented. 

The Kaltp. Sauerling issues 
from a granite rock behind the 
brewery. 

Lodgings. The price of the 
lodgings, which are in general 
prettily furnished, varies accord- 
ing to the season. They rise of 
cburse in proportion, as the place 
fills with company, but in the 
month of August they are gene- 
rally much lower than in June 
and July, which is considered 
the full season, Two or three 



BOHEMIAN.—ROUTE 34. CARLSBAD. 



5J}9 



neatly furnished apartments, includ- 
ing beds, &c., may generally be 
had from 10 to 20 florins per week. 
Invalids usually remain at the baths 
about three or four weeks. 

Promenades. The most agree- 
able are the walks in front of the 
Bohemian house, the road to Go- 
tek, the new path leading to the 
temple of Dorothea, the walk 
along the rocks to the Bohemian 
seat, which commands a charming 
prospect; the excursion over the 
bridge of the archduke Charles ; 
the romantic road leading to the 
Freundschaftssiz, and to the pa- 
per-mill ; the handsome causeway 
on the road which conducts to the 
Hammer, where they give pic-nics, 
&c., the place called Woht, in a 
wild and romantic situation; and 
the promenade to the temple of 
Gratitude, whence the eye wanders 
over the adjacent valley and the 
picturesque scenery which surrounds 
it. This promenade is more varied, 
inore shady, and more romantic than 
any in the vicinity of Carlsbad ; the 
poet's seat, the two vistas command- 
ing views of the town, and the de- 
lightful prospect of the valley of 
Egra and the Saxon Mounts, all 
add greatly to the beauty of the 
-scene. The excursions to the Ham- 
merberg, the Dreikreuzberg, and 
the Hirschsprung, will amply repay 
the traveller for his fatigue, which 
will not be so great as he may ima- 
gine. A handsome pavilion, with a 
shady path winding round the brow 
of the mountain, interspersed with 
seats and steps formed of moss and 
stones. Parties of pleasure may 
also be made up for the following 
places : — To Fishem, to which a 
foot-path leads across the meadows 
along the Egra. To the chateau of 
Eich, and to the rocks of Heiling, 
which will occupy about half a day. 
To EUbogen— this excursion may be 
accomplished in one day, setting out 
about ten in the morning, and re- 
turning at seven or eight in the 



evening. The road to the pewter 
and vitriol manufactories, and the 
brass-wire mill, is very interesting. 
To Elgenhausen, where are seen the 
ruins of an old castle on the roal 
to Prague, which was destroyed 
by the Hussites. To Schlacken- 
werth ; one day will suffice for this 
excursion. To Sehlackenwald, "which 
will also occupy the whole day, if 
the visitor stops to see the tin mines. 
To the park at Schonhoven : it will 
require three days to go and return, 
if the traveller wishes to see all that 
is worthy of notice. The principal 
objects are the temple, the water- 
fall, the Chinese-house, the fisher- 
man's hut, the hermitage, the sar- 
copliagus, the bridge, the gothic 
chapel, and . the monument of the 
Archduke Charles. On the even- 
ings of festivals, the crosses and 
chapels in the neighbourhood of 
Carlsbad are illuminated, which has 
a very pretty effect, particularly 
when seen from the hills and gloomy 
forests in the vicinity. 

The waters are usually taken 
at an early hour in the morning ; 
and as it is generally very cold 
in the valley at that time, inva- 
lids should take the precaution to 
wear warm clothing. The break- 
fast hour is generally from nine to 
ten o'clock. It is sometimes taken 
in the house, and sometimes in the 
open air. 

Some naturalists have supposed 
that the springs of Carlsbad owe 
their origin to the ignition of sul- 
phureous pyrites ; others, without 
absolutely rejecting this opinion, 
think it more probable that the 
beds of coal found at a great depth, 
and most likely formed from the 
remains of the primitive world, 
continually supply the subterra 
nean fire from which these waters 
derive their heat. The various 
kinds of pseudo -volcanic stones 
and earth, found at Hohdorf, near 
Carlsbad, tend to support this opi- 
nion. 



220 



ROUTE 35. — CARLSRUHE TO VIENNA. PART 111. 



ROUTE 35. 



FRANKFORT TO VIENNA BY STUT- 
GARD, MUNICH, AND SALZBURG. 



To Carlsruhe as Route 24 
Stutgard 
Ulm 

Augsburg 
Munich . 
Salzburg 
Lintz 
Vienna . 



Gr. miles. 
19 
24 
11 
10 
84 
16 
18 
22 



E, miles 529, 6. miles ll5 
Carlsruhe described at page 168. 

STUTGARD. 

huts. Marquardts^ the best and 
only good hotel in Stutgard. 

Stu'gard, the capital of the king- 
dom of Wurtemberg, contains 44,000 
inhabitants. It stands in a pleasant 
fruitful plain, and is divided into two 
parts by the Neckar, over which it 
has a bridge; the streets are broad 
and lightsome. There are three 
suburbs, and five gates. The King's 
palace is a noble old free-stone fabric, 
composed of four piles of buildings, 
flanked at each angle by a tower. 

A Pillar of Granite^ in the Schloss 
Place, Stutgard, has lately been 
erected to commemorate the tirst 25 
years' reign of the present king. 
After his death, it is tobesurmouuted 
by a statue of his majesty. The 
four corners are ornamented by 
figures representing Peace, Com- 
merce, Agriculture, and Science. 
Four beautifully executed high re- 
liefs represent the king swearing to 
the Constitution, and three battle 
scenes. It is by Professor Wagner. 

The Royal Stables contain sta- 
bling for 107 horses. At present, 
there are about 90 stallions. The 
name of the horse is over each stall. 

The Riding School is adjoining the 
stables; it is 176 feet long, by 7(1 
wide, with a gallery : on particular 
occasions it is used for concerts, &c. 

The Academy is open every Sun- 



day, "Wednesday, and Friday, from 
eleven till one. The ground floor is 
chiefly occupied by models in plaster ; 
the first floor is occupied as a picture 
gallery ; the ante-room contains a 
spirited modern painting by Carl 
Nahl, of Wallenstein, and the Ma- 
gician. The collection is small and 
contains but few pictures of note. 

English Church service every Sun- 
day morning at eleven o'clock in the 
Orphan House. 

The Museum is open on Sundays, 
from eleven till one; on "Wednesdays 
and Fridays, from two till three. Tlse 
collection consists of shells, fossds, 
stuS'ed birds and reptiles, skeletons, 
and Egyptian mummies. 

Theatre, — A large handsome 
building; the interior is light and 
elegant, and contains three tiers of 
boxes, a gallery corresponding, and 
pit, divided into three separate parts ; 
the first two rows for officers, the 
second are called spersitz ; the par- 
terre, all very comfortable ; the royal 
state box is in the centre of the first 
circle; but his Majesty (who attends 
every night), except on state occa- 
sions, occupies the PS. stage box. 
The ceiling is ornj^mented by the 
portraits of the following composers : 
Schiller, Mozart, Goethe, Bellini, 
Alfieri, Moliere, Lessing, Beethoven, 
Sh^skespear, Plautus, with the names 
of twenty others. Open four times 
a week, Sunday, Monday, Wednes- 
day, and Friday. Admission; first 
boxes and spersitz, 1 fl. 12kr. ; Par- 
terre, 1 fl. 48 kr. Commence at 6. 
The king gives annually 1 5,000 florins 
towards the support of the theatre. 

A new Coffee Room is opened near 
the Theatre; one side is dexfoted to 
smoking, the other side ladies may 
enter with convenience. 

N.B. Smoking is strictly prohi- 
bited in the streets of Stutgard. 

The Statue of Schiller, near the 
Stifts Kircke, is fifteen feet high ; the 
bust by Dannecker, and finished by 
Thorswalden at Rome. 

The Palace Gardens extend to 



VIENNA. — ROUTE 35. AUGSBURG. 



224 



Kosenstein, a distance of two miles, 
traversed by carriage roads and foot 
paths, in winding directions, forming 
a most lovely ride or walk ; a modern 
■villa belonging to the king fills np 
the extremity; near it has been 
erected baths for the use of the royal 
family; the tunnel of the railway 
passes under the palace ; crossing the 
Necker by a stone bridge, enters the 
village of 

Hamstadt. Hotel Herman, cele- 
brated for its mineral waters ; the 
baths are in the town, but the spring 
is behind the Kursall ; here a band 
plays during the season from 6 till 8. 
A carriage to the baths and back, 
1 ft. 12 kr. 

The King's Farm is about six 
miles from Stutgard on the Ulm 
road. Here are kept the blood mares 
(about 90), and upwards of 60 Dutch 
cows. 

Scharnhausen. Here are kept 
the foals from six months old to four 
years, also the Arabian mares, about 
20 in number ; the Arabian stallion 
foals are kept at a place called Klien- 
hoenhiem. 

Stutgard to Ulra by Diligence in 
8 1 hours; distance, 12 German 
miles. Railroad in progress, Sept. 
1846. 

Baths of fFildbad, described at 
page 180. 

ULM. 

Hotels. Hirschj Crown Prince^ 
and Rad Wheel. 

Ulm was formerly a free and im- 
perial town, but is now in the king- 
dom of Wurtemberg ; it is situated 
at the confluence of the Iller and the 
BJau with the Danube, and contains 
1600 houses and 20,000 inhabitants. 
Ulm lies on the left bank of the 
Danube, which receives the Tiler on 
its left bank, about three quarters of 
an English mile beyond the town, 
and the Blau on the south, after 
crossing the town, which it divides 



into two parts. Ulm is the seat of a 
provincial jurisdiction (Kreisregi- 
rung). 

This town has five gates, a palace, 
and government house, and a mag- 
nificent Gothic cathedral, built in 
1377 : the tower is 337 fret high, 
and affords a splendid prospect ; 
the bells are remarkable for their 
strength, the arched roof is exqui- 
sitely beautiful, the front is very 
handsome, the organ has 2,952 pipes, 
and there are several fine pictures 
in the church. The town-house 
has a clock which is considered a 
masterpiece of mechanical ingenuity. 

There is nothing to detain the 
traveller at Ulm, except he should 
feel an interest in the erection of 
fortifications, now carrying on with 
great activity — they extend eight 
leagues round the town. 

Boats go from Ulra to Ratisbon 
several times every week with goods 
and passengers. There is a stone 
bridge over the Danube which leads 
to New Ulm, a small place in Ba- 
varia, and a frontier town. 

AUGSBURG. 

Inns. Drei Mohren. 

Augsburg was formerly an im- 
perial town in Suabia, but is now 
the second town in the kingdom of 
Bavaria ; it is situated on the Lech 
and the Wertach, and contains 
36,000 inhabitants. It is a com- 
mercial town, but its trade is not 
now very considerable. 

Hotels. The Drie Mohren (3 moors). 
This hotel has existed for 500 years, 
and was originally the identical 
palace inhabited by the Fugger 
family, the room in which Charles V. 
was feted by Antony Count Fugger 
is in nearly its original state, and 
may be seen on application to the 
landlord. Murray is in error when 
he mentions the adjoining house as 
the then residence of the wealthy 
merchant : in the front drawing room 
of this hotel are frescoes 300 years 



222 



ROUTE 35. — CARLSRUHE TO VIENNA- PART. III. 



o\dy and in one of the bed rooms is a 
curious old iron stove, covered vi^ith 
figures in relief. The present pro- 
prietor, Mr. Deuringer, is a most 
active, obliging person, furnishing 
his guests with excellent dinners, 
comfortable accomodation, and a 
choice of wines not to be met with 
in any other hotel in Europe ; his 
list of wines contains upwards of 180 
different sorts — all of the first quali- 
ties, from every part of the world, 
with the prices per dozen as well as 
per bottle. The town is large and 
handsome, with a long wide street 
running through it, ornamented with 
several handsome fountains, large 
houses, and public buildings ; at one 
extremity is the cathedral, at the 
other the church of St. Ulrick and 
Afra ; many of the houses are orna- 
mented with frescoes, several in a 
good state of preservation, some 
with subjects indicating the occupa- 
tion of the present or former owner 
— that on the Weaver's Guildhall 
dates from 1606. The streets are 
paved with small stones, very un- 
pleasant and even painful to walk on. 
Augsburg is celebrated as the cradle 
of the Fugger family. 

The Cathedral is a large irregular 
building, with a double choir, the 
oldest dates from 774, the north 
entrance represents the 12 genera- 
tions, from David to the birth of 
Christ. The painting beliind the 
grand altar is by D. Keno, not by 
Carracci, the tomb is that of Bishop 
Alberti de Kiogo, erected 1836, 
several other paintings decorate the 
walls — a series of portraits of the 
Bishops of Augsburg since the 
foundation. The last four were 
taken from life, the others copied 
from other pictures ; within the old 
choir is an ancient marble chair sup- 
posed to have been used by the E.o- 
mans and subsequently by the bishops 
— the large painted glass window in 
the north aisle is entirely ancient, 
that on the south was partly de- 
stroyed in 1836 by the pulling down | 



a small church which formed part of 
the original building — the broken 
panes were replaced by modern 
artists. Near the cathedral is 

The Bishop's Palace, now used as 
government offices, on the top is a 
crown similar to that at Stutgard, 
with the arms of Joseph, Count of 
Hessen ; this palace is celebrated as 
the place where the confession of 
Augsburg was presented to Charles V. 
by Luther : from the balcony Pius 
VI. gave the benediction to the 
people in 1 782. Close by, is 

<S^. Stepheii's Churchy formerly 
belonging to the Stifts-damen Con- 
vent of noble ladies, which existed 
from 969 till 1806 — it is now used by 
the professors and students of the 
Catholic gymnasium. Within the 
grating are two frescoes in good pre- 
servation, that on the left represents 
St. Ulrick, the bishop of Augsburg, 
nominating his sister first abbess — 
the opposite represents the Emperor 
Sisizmund renewing the charter in 
1411. Adjoining is 

St. Gal/us Churchy not much 
larger than a modern chapel, is sup- 
posed to be the first place of worship 
built in Augsburg, it is now only 
preserved as a relic. 

The Church of the Holy Cross 
contains eight pictures representing 
the miraculous host, the ceiling is 
covered with frescoes. Adjoining is 
the 

Nevj Protestant Church, the only 
one in Augsburg built for the Pro- 
testant service, all the others now 
so used, were originally belonging 
to Catholics. 

Church of St. Ulric and Afra, in 
the court is a tablet dated 1529, in- 
dicating the period when the build- 
ing on which it is placed was con- 
ceded to the Protestant religion ; the 
adjoining barracks were originally a 
convent, at one period one of the 
most wealthy in Europe, its valuable 
and extensive library has been dis- 
persed to all parts of the globe : 
the interior contains the tombs of the 



VIENNA. — ROUTE 35. AUGSBURG. 



223 



two saints, beneath each are in- 
terred their bones ; two paintings, 
the birth of Christ and the Pentecost 
adorn the altar in front, and three 
beautiful figures in bronze, Christ 
on the cross, Mary, and John, pre- 
sented by the Fuggers ; the gallery 
behind the pulpit was formerly used 
by the abbess of the adjoining con- 
vent to hear mass ; in various parts of 
the church are 15 small paintings, by 
Zick, representing the passion of 
Christ ; strangers should notice the 
beautiful iron gates, from a little 
distance they present a perfect per- 
spective. 

Picture Gallery^ open to the public 
every Sunday and Fete day, from 10 to 
12; for strangers, every day from 11 
till 1. There are several old paint- 
ings by the Holbeins, Nos. 1, 2, 3, 
67, 31, 32, 33, with the exception of 
these, the collection is very poor; the 
custode of this gallery possesses the 
art in great perfection of restoring 
old paintings; his studio is worth 
visiting to view the pictures in the 
various stages of renovation. 

The Rath-house, is a noble build- 
ing in the Italian style, built in 1620. 
In the corner is the eagle and ball 
which formerly ornamented the out- 
side ; the interior consists of two 
noble rooms of large dimensions, 
being each 120 feet long and 62 
wide : the golden hall is 60 feet high, 
and several smaller rooms. The 
ceiling of the room on the first floor, 
beautifully inlaid with oak and ash, 
is supported by eight Salzburg mar- 
ble columns. The Emperor's or 
Golden Hall was formerly used for 
coronation fetes ; the ceiling and 
doors of this room are ornamented 
by paintings representing various 
subjects that cover the middle door ; 
the fine niners of Barera in one of 
the smaller rooms is a curious old 
painting representing a ball at Augs- 
burg, in 1500; the name of each 
party is written beneath. From the 
adjoining tower a fine view is ob- 
tained. 



The Fuggerei is remarkable as 
being originally built by the family 
whose name it bears, for the use of 
the people employed by them. The 
place is enclosed by gates, and con- 
tains 52 houses, two rooms in each, 
in which 104 families are lodged. 
The annual rent is 2 florins, and the 
only requisite qualification, now, is 
to be a Catholic of good character. 

Arsenal. — This building is orna- 
mented by a beautiful group, repre- 
senting St. Michael ; in front are 12 
pieces of ordnance dated 1500-1544 ; 
opposite is the Kunst Verein, in 
which is a ceiling beautifully painted. 

Beim Dahinah, is written on the 
corner of a lane near this church, in- 
dicating the way taken by Luther in 
his escape out of Augsburg. The 
door way through which he passed 
the walls (now bricked up) may 
be seen in the wood house, be- 
longing to the family occupying the 
house at the corner. The fresco, re- 
presenting the Devil and Luther, has 
been destroyed since 1806, but a copy 
may be seen inside, by paying a trifle 
to see it. His Satanic majesty is 
represented as a weaver. 

Railway trains from Augsburg to 
Munich at 7, 11, 3, 7 ; fares, first 
class, 2 fl. 24 kr. ; second class, 1 fl. 
36 kr. ; third class, 1 fl. 6 kr.,intwo 
hours. Smoking allowed in the se- 
cond class carriages, if not objected 
to by the other travellers. Ladies 
should always take the first class. 

The Post Office is open from 8 till 
8 ; letters arrive from England at 5 
in the morning. 

Diligences to Ulm, Stutgard, 
Lendau, Schoffehausen, Regensberg 
and Nurnberg, 

The Railway Station is some dis- 
tance outside the town ; a good half 
hour ought to be allowed to get there 
from the hotel and to liave your lug- 
gage weighed, &c. &c. The first 
village on the left, after crossing the 
river Lech, is Ludwigsbourg, where 
that sovereign was received by the 
authorities of Augsburg ; a painting 



224 



ROUTE 35.- CARLSRHUE TO VIENNA. 



in the Kath-house represents the 
event. The ground for miles over 
which the rails are laid is as level as 
a bowling green. In 29 minutes 
reach Mering, the first station. The 
very homely construction of the sta- 
tions on this line must strike the 
traveller, as compared with almost 
every other line in Germany ; the word 
Casa (place for paying), being the 
only substantial thing about the 
concern. After leaving Lafhhausen, 
(the fourth station), a distant view 
of the Alps (Tyrol) is obtained. 
Omnibuses attend the arrival of the 
trains ; they are very queer looking 
conveyances, and those who do not 
like, for the consideration of a few 
kreutzers, to traverse the entire town, 
should take a carriage and drive 
direct to the hotel. The t9.x by om- 
nibuses, each person, without lug- 
gage, 6 kreutzers, with luggage 12 
kr. The fare by the fiacres is, 
quarter of an hour, one or two 
persons, 18 kr. ; three or four, 
24 kr.; half an hour, 36kr., 48kr. ; 
three quarters of an hour, 48kr. 1 fl. ; 
one hour, 1 fl., and 1 ll. 12 kr, 

MUNICH. 

Hotels. H. de Beviere (Bayer- 
ischen Hof). A large splendid es- 
tablishment, built and carried on by 
a company, under the management 
of a director, who eventually threw 
up the agency and took the hotel 
upon his own hands ; since then the 
house has been remarkable as one of 
the best hotels on the continent, and 
it is deservedly patronised exclusive- 
sively by English travellers, who 
speak in the highest terms of the 
civility of the landlord, Mr. Schu- 
macher, the attention of the servants, 
the excellent dinners and wines, and 
comfort and cleanliness of the apart- 
ments. There are two table d'hotes. 
at 1 and 5 o'clock. The Golden Stag 
is notorious for want of attention, 
noise, and confusion. MaulicVs 
Hotel is recommended for comfort, 
quietness and civility. Table d'hote 
at 1 and 5. 



Munich, the capital of Bavaria, \\ 
derives its present name of Mona- i<| 
chium from its having been founded l' 
by Duke Henry, 962, upon the ruins f 
of a monastery, whence it had the ; 
picture of a monk for its arms. It 
is situated on the river Iser, which 
here divides itself into several chan- 
nels, aflfording the citizens the con- 
veniency of fountains within their 
houses; the population is about 
11,000; the streets are broad and 
regular, the houses well built. The 
splendour and beauty of its modern 
buildings, both public and private, 
and the magnificence of its churches, 
render it one of the most beautifal 
cities in Germany. 

The king's palace, or as it is called 
Residenz, may be compared with 
most in Europe ; and is greatly 
admired for its rich and magnifi- 
cent apartments. The state rooms 
may be seen every day at 3 and 4 
o'clock, when parties assembled are 
admitted. To reach the waiting room, 
enter the centre arch of the old 
palace, pass the large stone fastened 
by a large staple to the ground, not 
chained^ enter a door on the left up 
stairs straight on to the glass gallery, 
which leads to the waiting-room ; list 
slippers are supplied, the march then 
commences. The grand staircase is 
first shown, then two ante-rooms, 
3rd. The reception hall. 4th. The 
Bull Room. 5th Small room, one 
contains the portraits of 36 handsome 
women of the present day,by Stieler ; 
the daughter of the English ambas- 
sador. Lord Erskine, is conspicuous 
for beauty amongst them. 6th. Hall 
of Victory contains 14 paintings, re- 
presenting important battles, in 
which the Bavarian army were en- 
gaged from 1805 to 1815. Three 
small apartments lead to the Hall 
of Charlemagne : here are 20 paint- 
ings, representing various scenes in 
the life of that Emperor. This room 
leads to the Hallof Barbarosso, con- 
taining 12 paintings ; next is the 
Habshovrg Hall, used by their ma- 
jesties on occasions of great cere- 



VIENNA. — ROUTE 35. MUNICH. 



225 



monies ; the four large paintings re- 
present scenes in the life of Rodolphe. 
The Throne Room is a magnificent 
apartment ; it contains 12 colossal 
statues of emperors and kings, 
bronze, richly gilt, placed between 
marble columns supporting a gallery. 
The Rez-de-chassee also contains 
a numerous suite of apartments, com- 
prising the apartments of the king 
and queen, the rich Chapel and the 
Treasury, (Schatzkammon). The 
Chapel is to be seen every Monday, 
Thursday and Saturday, 10 to 12. 
The Treasury on Tuesdays and 
Thursdays, 10 to 12. 

Pinacotheque. This splendid gal 
lery of paintings is open to the public 
every day, except Saturday, from 8 
to half past 1. The number of pictures 
are at present only 1270, arranged 
according to the schools, in 9 large 
halls and 23 cabinets all on the first 
floor. The loggie is simply a long 
gallery, at present having no con- 
nexion with the pictures, but doors 
communicate with each large salle. 
This gallery is divided into 25 com- 
partments, ornamented with frescoes, 
illustrating a particular period in the 
progress of the arts, or incidents in 
the life of an eminent painter. A 
catalogue of the collection may be 
had of the custode in the ante-room, 
price 1 11. 54 kr. The giound floor 
contains a collection of engravings, 
drawings, and vases; open Tuesdays 
and Fridays, from 9 till 2. 

Glytotheque. This collection of 
statuary is open to the public on Fri- 
days, from 8 till 12 ; but strangers 
may obtain a card of admission from 
the porter of the Pinacotheque for 
Sundays, Mondays, Tuesdays, and 
Thursdays, same hours. The sta- 
tues are arranged in 14 halls, lined 
with coloured stucco, with marble 
floors. Several of the halls are also 
ornamented with frescoes. The first 
hall is called the Egyptian Hall. 

Churches. The Cathedral is a 
large pile of red brick ; its erection 
dates from 1486, the base of which 



is covered with ancient tombs ; the 
interior contains a splendid monu- 
ment of the Emperor Louis the Ba- 
rerian ; on each side are two Bare- 
rian dukes ; at the angles are four 
knights kneeling, all in bronze, as 
large as life. 

St. Michael's Church is remark- 
able for its wide roof, unsupported 
by pillars ; it contains a Thorswald- 
ea's monument of Eugene, Duke of 
Leuchtenberg, by his wife. Sacred 
military music is frequently per- 
formed in this church. 

■S*^. Lewis's Church is a chaste and 
elegant building, named after the 
present king, who gave 100,000 
florins towards its erection. The 
grand altar-piece represents the last 
judgment in the right corner of the 
picture; the last of the three figures 
is the portrait of his majesty Louis. 

Basalifjue of St. Boniface. This 
magnificent erection, situated near 
the Glytotheque, is of a most simple 
form and character, 262 feet long and 
124 feet wide, and contains QQ co- 
lumns of marble, each of one piece ; 
the floor is mosaic ; the subterranean 
vaults are to receive the mortal re- 
mains of those who may be thought 
worthy to repose beneath the roof of 
this temple ; the interior is decorated 
with 12 large and 10 small frescoes, 
representing the chief scenes in the 
life of St. Boniface ; the large frescoes 
commence on the left, facing the en- 
trance. The father of Boniface, 
saved from a severe illness by the 
prayers of his son, confides him to 
the care of the Benedictine brothers. 
2nd. Boniface embarks for Germany. 
3rd. Gregory XL receiving him at 
Rome. 4th. Preaching to the Pri- 
sons Idolaters. 5th. Gregory XL 
anointing him bishop of St. Peter's, 
at Rome. 6th. Boniface catting 
down the Druid oak at Thuringe. 
7th. Creating the bishops of Eich- 
stadt, and Wurtbourg. 8th. Boniface 
bestows his benediction on the con- 
vent of Foulda. 9th. Anointing 
Pepin, King of France. 10th. De- 



226 



ROUTE 35. — CARLSRHUE TO VIENNA. 



parts to convert the Frisons. lltb. 
Boniface and his followers suffer mar- 
tyrdom. 12th. His corpse deposited 
in the church of Foulda. 

The small frescoes represent other 
events in connexion with the principal 
scenes described in the larger ones ; 
the others near the windows represent 
the lives of 38 saints and martyrs, 
from the introduction of Christianity 
into Germany to the time of Char- 
lemagne. This building may be 
visited every day. 

Church at Au. This church is 
also well worthy a visit, it is situated 
in the suburbs. The morning early, 
when the sun casts its brilliant rays 
through the beautifully painted win- 
dows is the best time to see it ; it is built 
partly of brick and partly of stone. 
The tower is 270 feet high; in 10 
frames are 14 reliefs in stone, coloured, 
the life of the Madonna. 

Royal Library. This is also a 
new and magnificent building. Open 
to the public on Mondavs and Fridavs 
from 10 till 1. It contains 450,000 
printed volumes, and about 18,000 
manuscripts, many rare and highly 
interesting. The collection is well 
worthy a visit. 

Duke of Leuchtenherg' s Gallery^ 
is a small but an interesting collection 
of choice pictures, many are modern, 
by French artists. It is open to 
the public every Thursday. 

The Royal Foundry is also worthy 
a visit. The Sftidios of Schwanthaler 
and Praulhack may be visited by 
merely sending in the stranger's card. 
From 10 till 2 is the usual time for 
calling. 

The Theatre, between the Pa- 
lace and the Post Office, is a large 
handsome building, painted out- 
side in the Greek fashion. It con- 
tains four tiers of boxes. The house 
inside was very dingy in the autumn 
of 1846. The performances usually 
are given on Tuesdays, Thursdays, 
Fridays and Sundays. Spersitz, the 
best place for strangers, is one 
gulden. 

Post Office. Open from 8 till 1 2, 



and from 2 till 7. All letters directed 
Post restante are entered alpha- 
betically in a book kept for that 
purpose. Letters from England ar- 
rive and depart twice a day. Letters 
addressed via Belgium need not be 
pre-paid. 

Passports are not now demanded 
at the gates, but must be given to 
the keeper of the hotel on arrival, 
who forwards them to the police 
officer. 

The Arcades, running round two 
sides of the Hof garden. The walls 
are decorated with 12 large frescoes 
and 4 small, representing historical 
events relating to Bareria, from 1155 
to 1818, by different artists ; and 28 
scenes in Italy, by Kottman. The 
lower part contains several large 
statues of Hercules. Just within 
the entrance is the 

Cape Tambosi, where ices (12 kr.), 
lemonade, (12 kr.), coffee, (6 kr.), 
and Barerianbeer, (4 kr. a glass,) may 
be had. Across the Hof Garden 
leads to the 

English Garden, about three miles 
long, and half a mile wide ; laid out 
most tastefully in the English style, 
in serpentine walks, shrubberies, and 
it is a delightful walk or ride. At 
the extremity, near the lake, where 
boats may be hired, several temples 
pagodas, &c. are erected in various 
parts. At the Chinese Pagoda Cafe 
concerts are given during the summer 
evenings. Another celebrated gar- 
den for beer and music is the 

Brilnthal ; it is on the right of the 
gardens outside. 

Banker and Money Changer.--^ 
Mr. Isidor Neustaetter, Promenade 
Platz, near the Bavarian Hotel. 
This is a respectable establishment, 
where travellers will receive the 
greatest payment for exchange circu- 
lar and bank notes, gold, or other 
securities. Mr. Neustaetter and his 
clerks speak English, and are always 
ready to give to strangers every pos- 
sible information. 

Conveyances from Munich to Salz- 
burg twice a day, in 15 and 17 hours. 



AUSTRIA. — ROUTE 35. STRASBURG. 



227 



SALZBURG. 

Salzburg is situated on the Salza, 
between three mountains. Popula- 
tion, 16,000. 

Hotels. — The New Hotel outside 
the town, a large splendid establish- 
ment, called the Leopold's Kron, is 
a first-rate comfortable house. The 
people at the Golden Schiff are de- 
serving every patronage, the accom- 
modations are, however, not first- 
rate. 

The most remarkable objects are 
the castle and the cathedral ; the 
summer chateau, called Mirabelle ; 
the beautiful statue of Mozart ; and 
the three galleries cut in the moun- 
tain ; and the gate cut in the Monchs- 
berg. The summit of the Monchs- 
berg commands a most magnificent 
prospect. 

Environs. — Strangers should visit 
the pleasure chateau of Helbrun, 
with its amphitheatre of rocks, 
and its park, abounding with cha- 
mois and wild goats ; Gastein, in a 
wild and romantic situation, with 
its baths and mines, which produce 
more than 100 marks of pure gold 
yearly, besides a great quantity of 
silver, copper, and lead ; Berchtes- 
gaden, and the lake of Bartholo- 
mew, which is famous for its sal- 
mon. Berchtesgaden is celebrated 
for its mines, and for the industry 
of its inhabitants, which is dis- 
played in the manufacture of ele- 
gant articles in ivory, bone, and 
wood. The salt works of Hallein are 
also worthy of notice, and the illumi- 
nation of them is a superb spectacle. 
There are thirty-two reservoirs at 
Hallein, one of which contains 
700,000 buckets. Travellers should 
likewise observe the immense ma- 
chine for arresting the progress of 
wood floating on the river. This 
machine cost 20,000 florins. The 
country around Salzburg is ex- 
tremely interesting, and affords 
every possible accommodation for 
travellers, who usually perform the 



journey as far as the foot of the Alps 
in a carriage. 

Railroad. — The distance between 
Salzburg and Lintz . is eighteen 
German miles, half of which, from 
Gmiinden to Lintz, there is a 
railroad, between which the trains 
run four times a day; fares, first 
class, 1 fl. 20 kr. ; second class, 
50 kreutzers. 

Lintz described at page 215. 

K-oute 23 continued from page 
180. 

STRASBURG. 

Hotels. — Ville de Paris ^ a good 
house, centrically situated, with ex- 
cellent accommodation. Table d'hote 
at one and five o'clock. 

Maison Rouge^ also a good and 
comfortable house, situated in Place 
Kleber, the moat pleasant part of 
Strasburg, containing comfortably 
furnished apartments. combined 
with cleanliness and moderate 
charges. 

Strasburg, which contains about 
70,000 inhabitants, 260 streets, in- 
clusive of fourteen larger and smaller 
public places and lanes ; the number 
of houses amounts to 3,800, besides 
public buildings. 

The origin of Strasburg can be 
traced to the most ancient times ; 
the ancient Celts may have lived 
here even long before the birth 
of Christ; these were superseded 
by the Romans, who thought 
the site of the place important 
enough to fortify it. Thus Ar- 
gentoratum arose; which, however, 
was desolated in the fifth century 
by the invading barbarians, but re- 
built by the Franks in the sixth 
I century, and from that period 
1 called Stratoburgen. The town 
has since been enlarged repeatedly, 
and surrounded with strong walls 
and towers ; these, however, from 
the middle of the sixteenth century, 
were gradually superseded by the 



228 



ROUTE 35. — FRANCE. STRASBURG. THE MINSTER. 



present fortifications. Louis XIV. 
ordered this town, which belonged 
to the German empire, to be taken 
in 1681, in the midst of a profound 
peace, though it preserved, by ca- 
pitulation, many of its ancient 
rights and privileges. Since that 
time its fortifications have been 
considerably enlarged, especially by 
Vauban, who, in 1682, strengthened 
the works by adding a pentagonal 
citadel, which extends to the very 
bank of the Rhine, and renders 
Strasburg one of the strongest for- 
tresses in France. In the time of 
Napoleon, the fortified "village of 
Kebl, on the right bank of the Rhine, 
was connected with these works ; 
but they have been demolished, and 
the village has been restored to 
Baden. Strasburg is defended by a 
numerous garrison, which even in 
time of peace amounts to six thou 
sand men. 

The principal object of curiosity 
in Strasburg is the cathedral. The 
first minster was built by King 
Ludwig (Louis) about 510. Charles 
the Great added a choir. In 1007 
the building was reduced to ashes 
by lightning. In 1015, Bishop 
"Werner, of the House of Hapsburg, 
laid the foundation for a new min- 
ster, which was finished in 1275. 
In 1276, the steeple was begun, and 
finished in 1439. What renders 
this building particularly remark- 
able is, its being surpassed in height 
by the largest Egyptian pyramid 
only by twenty-five feet, and it has 
not its equal in Europe. The three 
western portals, whose sculptures 
were efi^aced in the time of ter- 
rorism (1793), are now restored, 
after the old models ; the large 
windovr-rose of coloured glass over 
the portal, together with other 
paintings on glass ; the beautiful 
font of 1453, and the pulpit of 1486 ; 
the high and massy columns of the 
inside ; the large choir with the 
high altar, and beneath it the 
holy sepulchre ; the tombs of John 



Geiler of Kaiserberg, of Bishop 
Conrad II., of the family of Lich- 
tenberg, who began building the 
minster; the tomb of John Moen- 
telin, the first printer of Strasburg ; 
the tombs of Erwin the architect, 
and his son. The entire height of 
this building, from the floor to the 
spire, rises to 437^ French feet, the ' 
internal length to 355, the breadth 
to 132. The dome of St. Peter's, at 
Borne, is from six to seven feet 
lower. 

The mechanical clock, lately re- 
paired and beautified, is now an 
additional attraction to visit the 
cathedral. Strangers should make 
it a point to place themselves in 
view of it a little before twelve 
o'clock, as at that period the figure 
of Death strikes the hour ; the 
twelve Apostles pass in review be- 
fore the spectator, and a large cock, 
perched near the top, crows three 
times ; the beadle strikes the flags 
three times, and the people must 
leave the cathedral A little stone 
figure in the left hand corner repre- 
sents the architect of the minster, 
Erwin of Steinbach, contemplating 
his own work. 

You may, with ease, mount to 
the platform of the steeple, without 
running any danger, from whence 
there is a most delightful prospect. 
A telegraph is placed on the roof, 
above the choir. 

The Church of St. Thomas contains 
the magnificent tomb of Marshal 
Sachs, executed in marble by Pigal ; 
and the plain, though beautiful, 
monument of Schoepflin, by Pertois, 
which his sister had caosed to be 
placed there; as also the monu- 
ments of Oberlin and Koch, exe- 
cuted by Ohmacht's masterly 
chisel. There are some incorrupti- 
ble corses in a vault of this church. 
The Neue, or Predigerkirche, built 
by the Dominicans in 1254, and in 
1681 given to the Lutherans, in 
lieu of the minster. In the wall is 
the monument of Tauler (1361), and 



FRANCE. — ROUTE 35. STRASBURG. 



*228 



ill the church is the fine monumpnt 
of Blessis ; the remains of Death's 
Dance of the 15th century was lately 
discovered in this church. The 
Wilhelmer Kirc Ae(Wi\\\dim'schmch) 
where the monuments of Philip and 
Ulrich von Woerth, tw-o landgraves 
of Alsace (in 1322 and 1324), and of 
Woelfelin, of Ruffach, may be seen 
in the choir of the church. The 
Royal Palace, on the south side of 
the minster, formerly the episcopal 
palace, which the town purchased 
in the beginning of the revolution, 
and afterwards (1806) made a pre- 
sent of to Napoleon. After the 
expulsion of the emperor, the king 
took possession of it again, and 
assigned it as a residence. The 
theatre, a magnificent building, at 
the extremity of the beautiful pro- 
menade le Broglio. The entrance 
is adorned with six Ionian columns, 
over which the muses are placed. 
The public library, near the new 
church. A collection of ancient 
coins, found in the country, is con- 
nected with it. There is also an 
observatory contiguous to it, and 
opposite the academy lies the bo- 
tanical garden. 

The Hotel de Yiile contains a col- 
lection of paintings and sculpture, 
but as I do not pretend to be a 
j udge of everything from a cathe- 
dral to a roast frog, I leave travel- 
lers to decide for themselves as to 
their merit. 

A Monument to Guttemberg staxids 
in the Marche aux Herbes, and a 
Monument to the memory of Gene- 
ral Kleber has been erected in the 
place named after that General. 

Booksellers. Messrs Schmide 
and Grucker, No. 6, Arcades, keep 
an assortment of guides, pano- 
ramas, maps, &c>, for the use of 
travellers. 

Fancy Repository . Bernard Simon 

and Co., Place Guttemberg, have on 

sale a large assortment of various 

ancj articles, writing paper, al- 



bums, bronze figures, drawing 
materials, &c. 

Omnibuses attend the arrival of 
the trains from Manheim and 
Basle; fare from Kehl, 1 fr. 25 c. ; 
to and from the Basle station, ^ fr. ; 
to and from steam packets, 1 fr. ; 
the above fares include luggage. 

The Post Office is open from 
seven in the morning till six in the 
evening. Letters for England, via 
Paris, may be posted till three 
o'clock. 

The Passport Office is in E.ue 
Bulee, No. 5, near the Government 
house, in Place Maire. It is open 
for the recovery of passports (which 
are taken away on entering the 
town) from nine till four, and from 
six till seven in the evening. 

The Theatre J open twice a week ; 
first places, 3 f. 30 c. ; second places, 
2 f. 20 c. ; pit, 1 f. 10 c. ; open at 
six, commence at half past six. 

Coffee Houses. The best are in 
the Place Maire. 

Strasburg being a fortified 
town, the gates are shut at ten 
o'clock. 

Strasburg is celebrated for 
Pates aux foies gras made of goose 
liver. 

Steamers descend the E-hine from 
Strasburg to Cologne in one day ; 
one day from Mayence to Wesel or 
Nyraegen ; and early the third day 
reach Rotterda-m. 

Diligences to Paris through Nancy ^ 

by the messageries royales every 
afternoon at a q^uarter before four, 
in fifty to sixty hours ; by the mes- 
sageries generales at the same 
hour, in fifty to sixty hours ; by 
the messageries Henry, Place Kle- 
ber, at three a.m., in fifty to sixty 
hours ; fares by the messageries 
royales and generales coupe^, 65 frs. ; 
interieur, 58 frs. ; rotonde, 60 frs. 

Paris, through Mefz, 
by the messageries generales, every 



»228 



ROUTE 36.— STRASBURG TO BASLE, PART III. 



even day of the month in June, at 
ten o'clock a. m., from sixty to 
seventy hours; by the messageries 
royales, every odd day of the month 
in June, at ten o'clock a.m.; by 
the messageries Lipmann, Braun, 
and Co., Place Kl^ber, every day at 
eleven o'clock a.m. 

In taking places for Paris it is 
necessary to have a guarantee that 
you retain your place the entire 
way, but the best plan is to take 
the place to Nancy only. 

Malle Post to Paris in thirty- 
three hours ; fare, 82 frs. 65 c. 

EOUTE 3Q. RAILROAD. 

STRASBURG TO BASLE. 

Travellers proceeding direct by 
the railvs^ay to Svsritzerland from 
Germany, may have their luggage 
plombe and transferred at once to 
the station, w^here it may remain, 
under the proper authorities. Trains 
four times a day in five hours ; 
fares, first class, 14 f. 25 c. ; second 
class, 10 _f. 80 c; third class, 7 f • 
30 c. ; children under seven years 
of age travel free. 

Carriages, all expenses included, 
from Strasburg to Basle, 50 f. 

N.B. Travellers should always 
take the first, smoking being al- 
lowed in the second class carriages. 

From the first of June the trains 
leave at six, half-past nine, twelve, 
and half-past four ; the last train in 
four hours and twenty-five minutes, 
the two first in five hours, the third 
in six hours, stopping at all the 
stations, twenty-nine in number, 
the principal of which are — 



Benfeld 
Schlestadt . 
Colmar . 
Mulhouse 
St. Louis (Basle) 



Kilom. 
. 244 
. 164 
. 22 

. 43 

. 28 



Kilom 134 
Forty kilometres is exactly 
twenty-five English miles ; thus 134 
will be eighty-four. 
-Se/j/eW.--- Population, 2,500 souls. 



During 140 years, this small town 
was the theatre and the cause of 
wars between the bishops of Stras- 
burg, the citizens, and the lords. In 
1444, it sustained a vigorous siege 
against the Armagnaes. In 1623, 
and in 1650, it was taken by the 
Swedes, who restored it to the 
Bishop of Strasburg. 

At a short distance from Benfeld, 
on the banks of the 111, exists a 
hamlet of illustrious and ancient 
origin ; its name is Ell ; it stands 
on the great Roman road which 
crossed Alsacia, and was formerly 
known as the great city of Helve- 
tus. Saint Materne, the first apostle 
of Alsacia, came there to preach 
Christianity. 

Benfeld is the point from which 
those who wish to visit the castles 
which still exist in the neigbour- 
hood of Rarr should start. That 
of Landsberg, built in the thir- 
teenth century, stands upon a lofty 
peak, which commands a consider- 
able part of Lower Alsacia. 

In the vicinity of this castle are 
still to be seen some well-preserved 
vestiges of the Pagan wall, and in 
following its outline the visitor is 
conducted to Saint Odile. Birken- 
feld is of less consequence than the 
Landsberg. The castle of Spes- 
bourg is a magnificent enclosure, the 
ruins of which present a most im- 
posing appearance. 

The ruins of Girsperg strike the 
mind with a strange astonishment ; 
one is at a loss to understand how 
this eagle's nest could have ever 
been inhabited by human beings, 
and one is tempted to believe that 
the rock on which it stands was 
hewn perpendicularly after the com- 
pletion of the castle, in order to 
render its future access impossible, 
save to the feathered inhabitants of 
the air. 

At a short distance from Ribeau- 
ville stands the chapel of Dussen- 
bach, in which the festivals of the 
musicians of the whole of Alsacia 
are held. 



FRANCE. — ROUTE 36. STRASBURG TO BASLE. 



•228 



On penetrating a little into the 
mountains, the tourist again comes 
upon the traces of the Pagan wall, 
that gigantic fortification which 
appears to have protected the whole 
line of the Yosges. 

Colmar {Hotel d VEurope, near 
the station) is the chief town of 
the department of the Upper Rhine. 
Thi^ town was originally, it is said, 
merely a royal farm ; it became a 
village under Charlemagne, and it 
was not till 1220, that the Emperor 
Frederick II. raised it into a town, 
and gave it rights as such. It was 
then surrounded by a wall flanked 
with towers. Colmar was raised to 
the rank of an imperial town, but it 
was not till the sixteenth century 
that it was surrounded with fortifica- 
tions of any consequence. In 1632, 
the Swedes, to whom the victory of 
Leipzig had opened the gates of Ger- 
many, showed themselves before Col- 
mar, led by Gustavus de Horn, one 
of the generals of Gustavus Adol- 
phus ; the town sustained a siege 
fertile in incidents, in which the 
townsmen played an active part, and 
capitulated in opposition to the 
governor. Louis XIV. caused the 
fortifications to be razed in 1673 ; in 
1697 it was definitely ceded to 
France by the treaty of Eiswick. 

Among the remarkable buildings 
are, the church of the Dominicans, 
to Idc admired from the beauty of 
its nave ; a fine public walk and 
town-hall ; Colmar also possesses a 
library and several scientific esta-, 
blishments. 

The town is charmingly situated 
on leaving it one enters the valley 
of Munster, one of the richest in 
the Yosges. Turckheim, whose 
fields have been rendered celebrated 
by Turenne, is reached in a few 
minutes. From Colmar one per- 
ceives the castles of Hoh-Landsberg 



' and Plixbourg, and the priory of 
Trois-Epis, which are easily reached. 
The Hoh-Landsberg, the origin of 
which, like that of the greater num- 
ber of the fortresses of the Yosges, 
is buried in obscurity, 

Mulhouse. - Population, 20,129 
inhabitants. It suffered much from 
the tyranny of the landgraves, the 
lawyers and prefects of Alsacia. 
The continual attacks directed against 
it, forced it to ally itself with the 
Swiss cantons. It only owed its in- 
dependence in a special manner to 
the Protestant cantons, and it is 
since its incorporation with the Swiss 
cantons, that it contrived to enjoy 
peace and tranquillity in the midst 
of the wars of Germany. 

Mulhouse is principally worthy of 
notice for its rich manufactories, and 
the extraordinary spread of its trade 
within a few years. It is now one 
of the most important manufacturing 
towns in all France. Tbe external 
appearance of Mulhouse is under- 
going improvement every day, and 
there is now a superb new quarter, 
which may be said to have formed 
an entirely new town. When the 
traveller has inspected the manu- 
factories, there remains very little else 
to attract attention He should, 
however, visit the town-hall and St. 
Stephen's church, nor should he 
neglect to see the fine galleries of the 
Society of Industry. 

Omnibuses attend the arrival of 
the trains, to convey travellers to 
the various hotels. Fare for each 
passenger, ^ fr., including luggage. 

St. Louis. This is the frontier 
between France and Switzerland. 
A short delay takes place here, 
coming from Strasburg, but no exa- 
mination of either luggage or pass- 
ports ; but on entering France from 
Switzerland, the luggage is all 
opened and examined. 



HAND-BOOK FOR CENTRAL EUROPE, 



OR 



GUIDE-BOOK FOR TRAVELLEES. 



PART IV. SWITZERLAND. 

NB. — For the convenience of travellers, either on foot or otherwise^ Swit- 
zerland has been divided into Five Journeys, each for ndng a distinct tour, any 
one of which may he omitted without any derangement of the others. 



BASLE. 

Hotels. Trois Rois, a new house, 
overlooking the Rhine, well ar- 
ranged and splendidly fiited up, and 
contains 10 saloons, 200 bedrooms, 
reading room, and a chapel for 
English divine service. The charges 
are: plain breakfast. Ifr. 50 c.; table 
d'hote, at one o'clock, 3 fr ; at five, 

4 fr., wine included. Mr Senn, the 
proprietor, receives boarders during 
the winter on moderate terms. 

H. du Sauvage, a very good 
second-r.ste house, clean and mode- 
rate, and civil people. Charges: 
beds, 1 to 2 frs. ; plain breakfast, 
1 fr. ; dinner at table d'hote, 3 frs., 
including wine. 

Travellers arriving from the in- 
terior of Switzerland to take the 
early train to Strasburg, will find 
at the above house breakfast ready 
at half past four in the morning. 

Crown Hotel, facing the bridge, 
and overlooking the Rhine. Beds, 
I fr. to 1 fr. 50 c. ; plain breakfast, 
1 fr. ; table d'hote, at half-past 
twelve, 3 fr. ; private dinner in sa- 
loon, 4 frs. ; in private apartments, 

5 frs. 

Cigogne, Tete d Or, &c., &c. 
Basle or Bale. — The origin of 
this large and much improved town 



is little known ; some curiously 
preserved monuments would lead 
one to suppo.se that it existed as 
early as the fourth century. 

Nevertheless, its increase and 
prosperity only date from the pe- 
riod which declared it a free town, 
and thanks to its position on the 
Rhine, that sole channel of com- 
mercial communication of the time, 
it became, in a few years, like Co- 
logne and the Hanse towns, rich 
and flourishing. Bale, under the 
sway of its bishops, was the theatre 
and the object of several bloody 
wars — during the thirteenth and 
fourteenth centuries in particular — 
and enjoyed very brief intervals of 
repose. To the war which deci- 
mated the population, succeeded a 
plague which fell so cruelly on the 
town, that only three families, as it 
is said, were spared by it. An 
earthquake followed close upon 
these terrible scourges, and com- 
pleted the ruin of this unfortunate 
city. 

In 1431, Basle had, nevertheless, 
regained some portion of its former 
size and importance, so much so, 
that it was chosen as the seat of the 
celebrated council which bears its 
name. It was during the sittings 
of this council, that the Duke 



230 



ROUTE 36. —SWITZERLAND BASLE. PART IV. 



of Savoy, Amedeus VIII, was 
elected pope under the name of 
Felix V. 

The town of Basle welcomed re- 
ligious reform with less ardour than 
Strasburg ; nevertheless, in a few 
years the doctrines of Luther pre- 
dominated there, and Basle, by 
changing its religion and consti- 
tution, plunged itself anew in the 
quarrels which the Swiss cantons 
and the Germanic provinces had to 
sustain. 

From the thirty years' war till 
1702, Basle remained in peace ; 
in 1798 the town was once more 
the seat of war ; the French took 
military possession of it. In 1813 
it was similarly occupied by the 
allied armies, who passed the 
Rhine at that point to enter France. 

From that time till the present, 
in common with the rest of Europe, 
it has enjoyed repose. 

The present population is about 
25,000, the majority of whom are 
Protestants. It is built on both 
sides of the Rhine, which here 
becomes a large river. The two 
parts of the city are joined by a 
bridge, six hundred feet in length, 
half of which is supported on brick- 
work, the other half is entirely 
wood ; a new bridge is spoken of. 
The old tower with the droll head 
and moving tongue has been re- 
moved these three years. 

The Cathedral, built in the time 
of Henry II, is considered the 
oldest church in Switzerland ; it is 
composed of a reddish stone, and 
looks as if it was occasionally 
daubed over with red paint. Alto- 
gether it is an odd-looking build- 
ing ; the towers are odd, one being 
shorter than the other ; there is 
an odd bell hanging outside ; and 
the figures around the top are very 
odd. The organ is decorated with 
some pictures by Holbein, and the 
pulpit and choir are adorned with 
some curious sculpture. A great 
number of tombs of illustrious 



persons are contained within this 
cathedral, — in particular that of 
Erasmus, with an eloquent epitaph 
by his friend Ammerbach. Here 
also is interred Anne, wife of the 
Emperor Rodolph, of Habsburgh. 
The hall wherein the council of Basle 
was held is contiguous to the 
church, and retains its original 
form . Of the furniture, the wooden 
benches of the fathers alone re- 
main. On one of the wooden pul- 
pits is a profile of Erasmus, which 
is considered a striking resem- 
blance. 

The Town HaU was built up- 
wards of three hundred years ago ; 
it was repaired in 1825, and now 
presents a very respectable appear- 
ance. It is embellished with 
painted glass. In the court is a 
brass statue of Munatius Plancus, 
a Roman general under Augustus^ 
On the top of the staircase are 
frescoes. The several paintings in 
the principal apartment are by 
Holbein. 

The Arsenal, containing, among 
other curiosities, the armour of 
Charles the Bold, of Burgundy. 

The University and its library, 
wherein is deposited that of Eras- 
mus, contains more than thirty- 
six thousand volumes, and is par- 
ticularly rich in ancient literature 
and Greek manuscripts. Here 
also are twelve volumes of original 
acts of the council of Basle, and 
two containing the autograph cor- 
respondence of several reformers 
and learned Swiss of the fifteenth 
sixteenth, and seventeenth centu- 
ries ; a great collection of medals 
and other Roman antiquities, found 
at Augst, twelve thousand im- 
pressions of Roman medals, a 
cabinet of natural history, en- 
gravings, maps, drawings, and 
paintings, by Holbein, &c. The 
library also contains the portrait 
of Erasmus, by Holbein, a copy of 
his ' Eulogy on Folly,' with illus- 
trations by the same artist, his 



SWITZERLAND. — HOUTE 37. BASLE. 



231 



will, writing - desk, seal, and 
pen. 

Among the principal curiosities is 
a complete copy of the ' Biblia 
Pauperum,' with forty figures en- 
graved in wood. Three fragments 
of the celebrated 'Todtentanz, or 
Dance of Death' (which some 
ascribe to a pupil of Holbein, others 
to his master, John Cluber), are 
here preserved. The entire piece 
formerly existed on a wall of the 
cemetery of the Dominicans, but 
was in 1803 destroyed. Other 
fragments may be seen at the 
houses of curious collectors. 

The Post office is open very 
early in the morning. Letters are 
despatched by the railway to Stras- 
burg, and thence by Paris to 
England every day. 

Booksellers. There are two re- 
spectable establishments in Basle, 
Mr Walrz and Mr Schweighauser. 

The Promenades are, the cathe- 
dral pfalz, which commands an 
extensive view ; St Peter's square ; 
the bridge across the Rhine , the 
garden Forcard, in which is the 
tomb of Madame Forcard ; indeed, 
the environs afford many pretty 
walks particularly along the banks 
of the Rhine. 

Diligences to Schaffhausen every 
evening, at half-past seven, in 
twelve hours; fare. 13 frs., French. 

To Ziirich, every morning, at 
half-past eight, and six in the 
evening, in ten hours ; fares, coupee, 
13 frs. ; interieur, 10^ frs. ; rotonde, 
8 frs. 

To Berne, by Munster-thal and 
Bienne every morning at five, and 
afternoon at half-past two, in four- 
teen hours. 

To Berne, by Soleure, every even- 
ing at half past five, in eleven 
hours; fares, both routes, 16 frs., 
coupee, interieur, 13 frs. 

To Lucerne, at seven in the morn- 
ing, and half-past four in the after- 
noon, in twelve hours ; fares, coupee, 
16 frs.; interieur, 13 frs. 



Basle is distant from 

Swiss leagues. 

SchaflThausen 17| 

Berne, by Solothiirn . . 18J 

Ditto, by Moutiers ... 22^ 

Geneva, by Lausanne . . 44| 

Lucerne 19 

Zurich 16 

Soleure 12 

Environs. 

Arlesheim is situated one league 
and a half from Basle. Here may 
be seen the finest English garden 
in Switzerland, and the ruins of the 
castle of Birseck. 

Dornach- — The battle field of 
Dornach, in the canton of Solo- 
thurn, is only a short distance 
beyond Arlesheim, between it and 
the burgh of Dornach, which is 
situated on the Birs, and contains 
a good inn and a Capuchin con- 
vent. The battle took place during 
the war of Suabia, on the 22nd 
July, 1499. An ossuary, which 
belongs to the convent, recals the 
memorable day wherein the Swiss 
confederates obtained a decisive 
victory. Near the burgh is the 
village of Dornach Brugg, in the 
church of which repose the ashes 
of Maupertuis ; but the sepulchral 
stone is no longer extant. The 
ruins of the castle and the Schar- 
tenflue command fine prospects. 

St Jakob. About half a league 
from Basle are the hospital and 
cemetery of St Jakob, which have 
been rendered remarkable as the 
scene of a battle in 1444, wherein 
one thousand six hundred Swiss 
confederates long withstood forty 
thousand French, but were at 
length overpowered by numbers 
On this spot took place, in August 
1844. the centenary celebration of 
this battle, by the grand federal 
meeting of the members of the 
clubs of the twenty- two cantons ; 
the number of persons said to have 
been collected on the occasion were 
so numerous, and accommodation 
so scarce, that half the people slept 
on the battle field. 



232 



ROUTE 37 — SWITZERLAND. BASLE TO ZURICH. 



ROUTE 37. 

BASLE TO ZURICH. 

1 6 stunden or leagues ; 48 E. miles. 

Private and return carriages are 
to be met with at the principal inns. 

The voiturier requires one day and 
a half, and will charge a party 60 
French frs. A return, i.e. a bona-fide 
return, will be glad to take 30 frs ; 
but the return system being the most 
popular mode of conveyance, and 
travellers being always on the look 
out for the same, the roguish 
chaps call themselves returns, but 
have the impudence to demand the 
full fare, to any given place and back. 

Leagues. 

Augst 1| 

Rheinfelden - - - - 2 

Stein 2^ 

Frick 1 

Brugg 3| 

Baden 2 

Zurich ------ 4 

The road to Zurich is the same 
on the Swiss side as to Schaffhau- 
sen as far as Stein. The inns at 
all the towns, with the exception of 
those at Baden, are of the most com- 
mon place description. Travellers 
en voiturier should start early, and 
make Baden their resting place for 
the night. The first village after 
leaving Basle is Augst, occupying 
the site of an old Roman city. Re- 
lics of antiquity are constantly 
being discovered in the town and 
neigbourhood ; in a garden on the 
left of the road as you pass from ' 
Basle, several Roman monuments 
ha\e been erected. The most 
interesting antiquities which have 
been found here consist of the 
remains of an aqueduct, a bath, a 
mosaic pavement of about eight 
or nine feet, a sarcophagus of red 
sfone, ruins of walls, columns, aque- 
ducts, and ornaments in bronze, 
marble tables, gold and silver me- 
dals. Part of these are in the 
library of Basle ; the principal curi- 
osities on the spot are the ruins of , 



a theatre and of a temple. Beautiful 
promenades have been made over 
the ruins of the theatre. The road 
from Augst to Rhinefelden is along 
the southern banks of the Rhine. 

Rhinefelden is one of the forest 
towns, containing 1,436 inhabitants, 
and is situated on the left bank of 
the Rhine, six leagues from Basle, 
in the Friek-thal, in the canton of 
Aargovia. It has a large wooden 
bridge over the Rhine, which is 
divided by the ruins of an ancient 
castle, built on a rock in the middle 
of the river. 

Stein. At this town the road 
divides: that on the right leads to 
Schaffhausen (Route 4o); the road 
to Zurich leads through Fnc/f, a 
straggling village with two bad 
inns. The Aiige is the best. 

Frick-thnl, a valley situated be- 
tween the Jura and the Rhine, for- 
merly made part of Anterior Aus- 
tria. In 1801 it was ceded to France, 
by virtue of the treaty of Luneviile, 
and miited to Switzerland in the 
following year. At last, in 1803, it 
was embodied with the canton of 
Aargovia. This country, which 
contains nearly 10 ll-ieths square 
leagues, has a population of 30,000 
souls. Agriculture and the spinning 
of cotton are the chief occupations of 
the inhabitants ; corn and wine their 
principal trade. 

Soon after leaving Frick, get a 
fine view of the Oberland Alps and 
the Aar. The scenery is lovely in 
every direction as w^e descend to 
Brugg. The Maison Rouge is the 
only inn here fit to enter. This is 
not a walled town, notwithstanding 
the respectable authority, the Red 
Mask ; but it can boast of a gate 
way. At 

Windisch, not very miserable- 
looking, there are two large cotton 
manufactories, and a neat iron 
bridge across the Aar. 

A league from Windisch are the 
baths of Schinznach, situated in the 
canton of Aargovia, at the foot of 



SWITZERLAND. — ROUTE 37. BADEN. 



233 



the Wulpekberg, on the right bank 
of the Aar, on the road from Brack 
to Lenzbourg and Aarau, as cele- 
brated as those of Baden, and per- 
haps more frequented. The situa- 
tion is very pleasant, and they hare 
more conveniences. The heat of 
the waters is twenty-five degrees 
Reamnur. These baths are strongly 
recommended in all cases of erup- 
tions and wounds. The smeU of 
the hepatical gas being so exces- 
sively strong as not to be endured, 
the baths are kept at a hundred 
yards distance from the dwelling- 
houses. Surrounded by a flat coun- 
try, the invahds may ride in their 
carriages on every side. 

Above Schinznach, on the height, 
is the ancient castle of Habsbourg, 
celebrated for having given birth to 
the house of Austria. Only one 
tower of it remains, in which the 
inhabitants of Bern keep a man to 
give alarm in case of fire in the 
vicinity. 

Baden. Inns. A large building, 
just outside the clock tower gate, h as 
just been opened imder the name of 
Schlossberg. Within the gate are 
the Lion and Balance, neither very 
good, though the Red Mask says, 
" They will suit those who do not 
wish to cross the water, where the 
best hotels are." Now it fortunately 
happens for those who do not like 
the most ordinary fare, that the 
best hotels are on the same side of 
the water as the Balance and Lion 
hotels, but a quarter of a mile fur- 
ther up the river. Inns and bath- 
houses are — the Feihof, beautifully 
situated on the banks of the Lim- 
mat, an extensive establishment, 
containing sixty bed-rooms and 
twenty-two bath-rooms ; the Lim- 
mat Hof, Corb au. Lion, Stadthof, &c. 

The town and baths of Baden are 
situated in a defile on the borders 
of the Limmat, along the banks of 
which and in the neighbourhood 
are some dehghtful walks ; and 
although the accommodations here 



are very good and reasonable, few 
persons visit these baths except the 
natives ; and yet, if we believe the 
report of the medical men who have 
written on the properties of the 
waters, Baden possesses as many 
healing quahties as her more fre- 
quented and fashionable rivals. 

Baden existed in the time of the 
Romans. Tacitus tells us that Ba- 
den was a place much frequented 
on account of its agreeable and 
salubrious baths. However, they 
never were more flourishing than 
during the fifteenth century, espe- 
cially whilst the council of Con- 
stance was assembled. The heat of 
the waters, which are sulphurous, 
is from thirty-seven to thirty -eight 
degrees above zero of Reaumm^ ; 
they are said to be very eflicacious 
in rheumatism. The principal build- 
ings are the town-hall, where the 
confederates formerly held their 
diets ; the two convents at the gates 
of the town ; the hospital ; and the 
house of correction of the canton of 
Aargovia. There are to be foimd 
several antiquities, some inscrip- 
tions, a column with a figure of Isis, 
which is placed in the middle of the 
bath of St Verene ; a mile-stone 
below the new castle, near the road, 
and the remains of a causeway in a 
wood near the village of Klingnau. 
On the topf of one of the hills, over- 
looking the town, stand the ruins 
of a citadel destroyed some hundred 
and fifty years ago. There is a 
curious clock and sun-dial in the 
tower above the entrance - gate, 
coming from Basle. The following 
agreeable walks and prospects of 
the neighbourhood deserve notice: 
the Hermitage; the Bauerngut; the 
ruins of the old castle ; the eminence 
above the Teufelskeller, and the 
hills of Hertenstein and Martins- 
berg. Lodgings may also be pro- 
cured at the baths, but they did not 
appear to be very plentiful or very 
good. 

Zurich described in p. 249. 



234 



ROUTE 39. — BASLE TO SCHAEFHAUSEN. PART IV. 



KOUTE 38. 

BASLE TO BERN, BY BIENNE. 
AARBERG, ETC. 

23^ Swiss stunden or leagues, 70 
E. miles. 

Diligences twice a day — one by 
the Munster-thal, and Bienne; the 
other by Solseur The former is 
in correspondence with the steamer 
which traverses the lake of Bienne 
and Neufchatel, the quickest and 
most direct way either to Geneva 
or Lausanne. Voiturier, two days, 
80 francs ; return, 50 francs. 









Leagues 


LauiFan 


- 


- 


4i 


Solhiere 


- 


_ 


2^ 


Courrendelin 


- 


- If 


Montiers 


. 


- 


2 


Tavenne 


_ 


_ 


3i 


Soncebox 


- 


- 


1 


Bienne 


- 


- 


3 


Aarberg 




- 


2 


Bern 


- 


- 


4 



23| 

The principal places in this route 
are described elsewhere. 

St Jacob and Dornach, at page 
231 ; Pierre Pertuis, route 52 ; 
Bienne and Aarburg, at route 52 ; 
Bern, at route 51. 

FIKST JOURNEY. 
ROUTE 39. 

BASLE TO SCHAFPHAUSEN. 

Schaffhausen and the Fall of the 
Hhine, Constance and its Lake, Baths 
ofPfeffers, WaUenstadt, Rapperschwyl 
and Ziiiich. 

Basle to Rhinefelden - - 3 hours. 

Rhinefelden to Stein - - 2? 

Stein to Laufenburg - - 1^ 

Laufenbuig to Waldshut - 3 

Waldshut to Newkirck - 6 

Newkirch to Schaffhausen - 2 

Hours, 17| 

N.B Each hour is considered 
about three English miles, or a 
Swiss league. A carriage or dih- 



gence is supposed to travel at the 
rate of two leagues in the hour. 
Thus, to go from Basle to Schaff- 
hausen, would occupy about nine 
hours, independent of stoppages. 
To walk the same distance would 
take eighteen hours; which, in- 
cluding stoppages would be full 
employment for two days. 

Augst and Rhinefelden described 
in route 37. 

Laufenherg. — A town on the 
Rhine, containing a population of 
12,690 inhabitants. There are 
more than thirty churches and 
chapels, principally Catholic. The 
river here forms a cascade, so 
rapid, that it is only by the assis- 
tance of ropes that boats can 
pass. Several years ago lord Mon- 
tague perished here, by neglecting 
to use the necessary precautions. 
The bridge, which is very ancient, 
is supported by three stone pillars, 
of a considerable height. The ruins 
of the castle of Habsburg destroyed 
during the thiry years' war, is in 
the neighbourhood. 

Waldshut is also one of the fore«t 
towns, indeed a great part of the 
road from Basle to Sachaffhausen 
forms part of the celebrated Black 
Eorest, woody and very wild. The 
journey may be performed in one 
day, provided that travellers do 
not allow the coachman to make 
too long halts. It is essentially 
necessary occasionally to jog his 
memory to jog on with his horses. 
Those, hovever, who break into 
the second day, should visit the 
falls of the Rhine before they go 
to Schaffhausen. 

I formerly recommended travellers 
to proceed at once to Schaffhausen, 
and to make an excursion to the 
Falls, as but poor accommodation 
was to be had at the latter; since 
1842, however, a new and large 
hotel (the Weber J has been erected 
close to the Fall, possessing excel- 
lent accomodation ; charges, break- 
fast, 1 fr. 50 c; dinner at one, 3 



SWITZERLAND. — ROUTE 39. FALL OF THE RHINE. 



235 



frs., with wine; at five o'clock, 4 
frs., wine included. 

There is a smaller inn, called the 
Rhinefplden, said to be very good 
and moderate. 

Fall of the Rhine. 

To view this famous cataract in 
perfection, the traveller should 
proceed, in the first place, to a little 
rustic seat exactly in front; then 
proceed to the tower, or castle of 
Worth, in which is the camera 
obscura. This reaUy should not be 
omitted; it is a beautiful picture, 
and the illusion is completed by the 
distant roar of the fall. The charge 
for seeing this minature waterfall 
is six batz, about nine - pence 
English. In the room where the 
camera is exhibited, are a great 
variety of articles for sale, such as 
brooches, rings, ear-rings, drops, 
&c., manufactured out of crystal, 
found (as stated by the vendor) in 
the neighbourhood, besides a great 
variety of views, &c., calculated to 
please the sight ; and the room 
beneath contains a great number 
of little tables, on which will be 
served, in the shortest possible 
time, refreshments of every descrip- 
tion. Previous to crossing from 
this spot to the opposite side, it 
will be necessary to make a bargain 
with the ferrymen : the usual fare 
for two persons to cross and return, 
not detaining the boat more than 
half an hour, is about forty -eight 
kreutzers, or two francs. Having 
crossed the river to Laufen castle, 
ascending about half way, a bell 
handle wiU be perceived on the left 
hand ; ring it, and descend again 
by another path to a door which 
will be opened in answer to the 
ring; this will conduct you to a 
little platform close to the cascade; 
here, enveloped in a waterproof 
cloak (not a Mackintosh), one may 
approach so close as to touch the 
spray, or if you prefer it, the spray 
will touch you. If the view from 
the opposite side be truly pic- 



turesque, from hence it is grand 
and majestic. By ascending a little 
higher we have another view ; and, 
finally, from the pavilion near the 
castle. From the window of this 
chamber we look down upon the 
falling river, and trace its pro- 
gress. Between the slope of the 
castle and the opposite side, several 
fragments of rocks divide the river 
into five arms. The spectator, 
from the lower gallery, can only 
discover the three first rocks but 
at some distance the nearest is seen 
to emerge from the waves in the 
shape of a thin neck, surmounted 
by a large round head, covered 
with verdant saplings. In that 
part which forms the neck just 
mentioned, the violence of the cur- 
rent has made an oval aperture, 
through which a torrent of foam 
rushes with uncommon fury. From 
twenty five to thirty feet from this 
first rock stands the second, which 
is of a conic form ; and a third, 
much larger, but not so high as the 
other two. The fourth rock, which 
stands between the third and the 
mills of Newhausen, can only be 
seen from the pavilion. The noise 
of this cataract, bursting from a 
height of between seventy and 
eighty feet, is so great in the month 
of June, when the water is high, as 
entirely to drown the voices of the 
spectators. The Fall of the Ehine 
i should be visited in the morning, 
i when the rays of the sun fall ob- 
j liquely upon it, and add greatly to 
1 its magnificence ; or in the evening 
I by moonlight. 
I 

SCHAFFHAUSEN. 

Inns. Faucon and Crown. 

The Canton of Schaffhausen is 
one of the smallest in the Confede- 
ration ; its surface does not cover 
more than eight geographical 
miles ; the soil is fertile, the cli- 
mate mild, and the canton comprises 
a variety of hill and dale, with- 
out high mountains, forming 



236 



ROUTE 40. — SCHAFFHACSEN. PART IV. 



some very pleasing scenery. The 
total number of inhabitants in the 
canton are estimated at 32,268, of 
which number 6,866 are inhabitants 
of Schaffhausen. The religi(m is 
chiefly the reformed. Throughout 
the canton the German language is 
spoken generally. 

The town of Schaffhausen is 
situated on the northern bank of 
the Rhine. The buildings are old- 
fashioned and indifferent, most of 
them have the name of the inha- 
bitant, the date of the building, and 
some device over the door, and 
some have the front painted all 
over. The streets are not very 
narrow, but they are ill-paved, 
with middle and cross kennels. 
The celebrated bridge over the 
Khine, built in 1754, by Gruben- 
man, a common carpenter, was en- 
tirely of timber, 365 English feet in 
length, and yet rested wholly on 
the two ends. It was destroyed by 
the French in 1798, by order of 
General Oudinot. 

Schaffhausen was founded at a 
very early period. Its etymology, 
consisting of two German words, 
schiff, ' ship,' and haus, ' house,' 
bears testimony to its humble 
origin. In the eighth century 
Schaffhausen consisted of nothing 
more than a few storehouses, with 
perhaps some fishers' cottages an- 
nexed. These stores were built to 
receive goods conveyed along the 
Rhine, and thence transported by 
land to some distance below the 
cataract, where boats could not 
pass. 

The Munster, the town- hall, the 
public library (which was con- 
siderably augmented by that of 
Miiller the historian, in 1819, who 
was a native of this town), and the 
castle, are all worth seeing. The 
ancient towers and walls give the 
town a very picturesque appear- 
ance; in the arsenal are four field- 
pieces, given to the canton by Napo- 
leon. 



There is a pretty walk called the 
New Promenade, outside the gate 
leading to the Fall. 

Carriages to the Falls of the Rhine 
for one or two persons, six francs; 
four or five persons, eight to ten 
francs. 

Diligences to Zurich daily : fare, 
6 francs, 6 batz: ; and to Constance 
three times a week, Tuesdays, Fri- 
days, and Sundays, at seven in the 
morning ; fare, 6 francs. Frankfort 
every evening at ten. 

Steam Packets leave for Con- 
stance every day in six hours ; 
fare, five francs ; when the water is 
very high, the boats can only get 
up to Stein. 

ROUTE 40. 

SCHAFFHAUSEN TO CONSTANCE. 

hours. 
SchafFliausen to Diessenliofen . 2 
Diessenhofen to Wagenhausen . 1| 
Wagenhausen to Burg . , . Cj 
Burg, opposite Stein, to Steck- 

born 2 

Steckborn to Constance . . .2^ 



Total 



The road from Schaffhausen to 
Constance is excellent, and the 
views beautifully picturesque. 
Stein, which is situated on the 
northern bank of the Rhine, lies 
a short distance out of the direct 
road. Its site was once occupied 
by the Roman fortress of Ganodu- 
rum, which was destroj^ed by the 
Allemans. In 1005 an abbey was 
founded here, which was dedicated 
to St George. In the middle ages 
this town Avas under the dominion 
of the house of Hohenklingen. The 
ruins of their ancient castles of 
Klingen and Steinerklingen are 
still remaining ; the former on a 
hill above the town, the latter op- 
posite to it, on the left bank of the 
Rhine. Near these castles are fine 
points of view. In the quarry of 
Oeningen, situated in the German 
territory, not far from Stein, are 
curious petrifactions. The environs 



SWITZERLAND. — ^KOUTE 40. LAKE OF CONSTANCE. 



237 



of the town contain many traces 
of Roman antiquities. 

From Steckborn to Manenboch 
the road runs along the edge of the 
lake ; on the right, above the last- 
named town, is the castle of 
Wolfberg ; from this spot the view 
is really enchanting, rich in natural 
beauties — the Ehine, two lakes, 
the island of Eeichenau ; the towns 
of Constance, Moersbourg, Tre- 
derickshafen, Lindau, Bregentz, 
terminated by the Tyrol and Ap- 
penzell mountains ; those who neg- 
lect this route certainly lose a great 
treat. 

CONSTANCE. 

Inns. Aigle d' Or and Brocket. 
This is a delightfully situated town, 
ceded to the grand duchy of Baden 
by the peace of Presbourg in 1805, 
though, looking at its situation on 
the map, it would appear to belong 
to and form part of the canton of 
Thurgau. At one period it con- 
tained 36,000 inhabitants; at the 
present time its population does 
not exceed 7,000; many of the 
buildings are, consequently, wholly 
or in part unoccupied. There are 
also several convents, either unin- 
habited or converted into other 
uses. Latterly, however, several 
manufactories have been establish- 
ed; at the present time there are 
three silk and two cotton manufac- 
tories. The public buildings in 
Constance have undergone a great 
change; the once ancient episcopal 
palace is now a modern building; 
the ground-floor is occupied as a 
casino, the first floor as a museum. 
The Dominican convent is converted 
into a cotton manufactory, and the 
celebrated council-house is now 
used as a custom-house. The top 
of the cathedral is used as a fire 
look-out; the bells which formerly 
hung in the tower are converted 
into a statue of the Virgin and 
Child, and placed on the top of a 
pillar in the cathedral yard. But 



the chief lion is the council-hall, 
wherein are to be seen .the relics of 
antiquity. The hall is a large bar- 
rack looking place, nearly 200 feet 
long, by 95 wide; at the farther 
end is partitioned off" a corner of the 
said large hall, in which is gathered 
the most strange collection of anti- 
quities I ever remember to have 
seen huddled together. In one 
corner are two pieces of board, 
nailed together, painted to repre- 
sent stone- work; a door and small 
window taken, it is said, from the 
true cell in the convent of the Do- 
minicans; this represents the cell 
wherein Huss was confined previous 
to his death Then there are wax 
figures, stone figures, marble figures, 
and wood figures, bricks and chairs, 
stained glass, stained carpets, 
stained tapestry; the inhabitants 
do say that the little showman has 
the veritable Jacob's ladder, and a 
piece of Helen's chemise; but as 
they are only brought out on spe- 
cial occasions, I did not see them. 
One franc is charged for seeing all 
these sights, reading aU the labels, 
and writing all your names in a 
book, kept to prove, I suppose, how 
many francs the little man receives 
in the course of the year ; seriously, 
it is a curious collection, and worth 
the money. The private collection 
of antiquities and painted glass, 
belonging to Mr Vincent, is also 
worthy a visit. It is only necessary 
to send a polite message to the pro- 
prietor, who will with great promp - 
titude and civility, attend to the 
wish of strangers. This collection, 
entirely the result of Mr Vincent's 
persevering research, has been 
brought together at a great ex- 
pense; the specimens of painted 
glass, some of which are five hun- 
dred years old, are really beauti- 
ful ; and the selection and arrange- 
ment of the whole, reflects the 
greatest credit on the taste and 
judgment of the proprietor (Mr 
Vincent), who, with his brother, 



238 



ROUTE 40. — LAKE OF CONSTANCE. PART IV. 



was the first to ascend Mont Rosa. 
There is also in the town a collec- 
tion of historical paintings, exe- 
cuted by Mademoiselle Ellenricder. 
An hour or two may be pleasantly 
passed away in the inspection of 
these interesting pictures. 

In the Cathedral is a bronze bas- 
relief in the floor, of the English 
bishop Hallun, dated 1524 ; the 
spot is also pointed out where 
Huss stood while receiving his 
sentence. The sacristy is rich with 
the paraphernalia formerly used 
by the bishop and priests ; silver- 
gUt candlesticks of immense weight, 
and the figure of the Virgin, 
weighing fifty-six pounds, the 
crown of which is composed of 
precious stones ; a figure of our 
Saviour, in silver ; a shrine, in 
which is a bone of St Sebastian, 
and the point of the veritable ar- 
row which kiUed him. 

The mills on the bridge, turned 
by the Rhine, are curious. 

Diligences leave Constance for 
Zurich every morning at nine 
o'clock ; fare, four florins twenty- 
four kreutzers ; SchafiTiausen, three 
times a week ; fare, three florins ; 
diligences also daily to Stuttgard, 
Carlsruhe, and Strasburg. Post- 
horses may be had here to proceed 
to Coire, and from thence over the 
Splugen, 

Steam Packets are now plying 
to all parts of the Lake of Con- 
stance, and to Schaflfhausen. The 
first steam-boat employed in Swit- 
zerland was built in the dock at 
Constance, and launched in 1817. 
The fare from Constance to Rors- 
chach is three francs in the best 
cabin ; the time occupied is about 
four hours, and the boats generally 
leave in the middle of the day. 

Money is reckoned here by ang- 
sters, kreutzers, and florins. 4 
angsters is 1 kreutzer, 28 kreutzers 
1 franc, 60 kreutzers 1 florin, 1 
florin 2 francs 15 centimes, 20 
francs 9 florins. 



The Lake of Constance 

Is about eighteen leagues in 
length by five in breadth ; it con- 
sists of two parts — the lower part 
being called the Lake of Zell ; it 
washes the shores of no less than 
six sovereignties, Thurgovia, St 
Gall, Austria, Bavaria, Wirtem- 
berg, and Baden. The Rhine, 
which enters it at Alt-Rhine, is 
the most considerable of its tribu- 
tary streams. In addition to Con- 
stance there are several other im- 
portant places on the German side; 
for instance, Bregetz, Lindau, a 
town and island, Bucchorn, Mors- 
burg, and Ueberlingen. The shores 
of this lake are beautifully culti- 
vated, principally with vines ; it 
abounds with excellent fish, espe- 
cially two kinds of trout, called 
here felchen, and goengeljisch or 
gang fisch. The different species 
offish amount to twenty -six ; they 
are very shy of being caught ; a 
friend and myself spent two or 
three hours trying to catch some 
of the rogues, but they did not 
even favour us with a nibble ; boats 
may be hired at one franc an hour, 
with the use of tackle. 

Excursions from Constance. 

The monasteries of lireuzlingen 
and Miisterhngen, on the road to 
St GaU, wiU form objects of agree- 
able excursions for those who do 
not intend to depart from Constance 
by that direction. 

Richenau. The island of Riche- 
nau, in the Lake of ZeU, is almost 
entirely covered with vineyards, 
which produce excellent wines, 
especially those known by the 
name of Schleitheimer. It con- 
tains three villages and a Bene- 
dictine abbey. In the eleventh 
century the count of Yeringen, a 
monk of this abbey, translated the 
works of Aristotle, with the as- 
sistance of the Arabic versions. 
The emperor, Charles the Large, 



SWITZERLAND. -ROUTE 40. LAKE OF CONSTANCE. 



239 



is buried in this abbey, where he 
closed his days in indigence. The 
most elevated part of the island, 
which is marked by a cross, com- 
mands a magnificent view. 

Meinau. The island of Meinau, 
in the Lake of Constance, was for- 
merly a possession of the Knights 
of Malta. It rises into the form of 
a hill, and is entirely covered with 
vineyards, orchards, fields, or gar- 
dens. The most elevated point 
is occupied by the castle. St Lo- 
retto may be visited on the way 
from Constance to this place. 

Gottliehen. The handsome little 
burgh of Gottlieben is situated at 
the south-eastern extremity of the 
Lake of Zell, within a short dis- 
tance of Constance. It serves as 
a depository for the merchandize 
transported from Lindau, in the 
kingdom of Bavaria, to the nor- 
thern and central part of Switzer- 
land. John Huss was for some 
time confined in the castle of Gott- 
lieben, at the time of the Council 
of Constance, as was also Pope 
John XXin. 

Those who do not choose to 
follow my route through the can- 
tons of St Gall and Appenzel, 
may proceed direct to Zurich, and 
continue with Journey the Second, 
or may go from St Gall to Zurich, 
by Herisaw and Eapperschwyl ; 
the distance is llf leagues, through 
Frauenfield and Winterthur. 

Frauenfield. The capital of the 
canton Thurgovia, containing a po- 
pulation of 1,250 inhabitants, was 
formerly the residence of the 
bailiffs of that canton ; it is situ- 
ated in a country where there are 
a number of low hills, and on an 
eminence above the Murg, a river 
which has its source in the moun- 
tains of Allman. It possesses only 
three streets, which are parallel 
and tolerably broad. Since the 
great conflagration, in or about 
the year 1788, it has been com- 
pletely rebuilt. Frauenfield was 



the theatre of a sanguinary battle 
between the Swiss and Austrians 
on the 25th May, 1799. General 
Weber, who commanded the Swiss 
troops, was killed during the ac- 
tion ; a monument to his memory 
was erected on the road to St 
Gall in 1 8 34. The public buildings 
are, the Protestant church, the 
Eoman Cathohc church ; the Town 
house, where the diet of the con- 
federation assembled, previous to 
the year 1798 ; the old castle, situ- 
ated on an eminence, formerly 
the residence of the bailiffs ; the 
library, consisting of a smaU collec- 
tion of books : and the Capuchin 
convent. 

The environs of Frauenfield are 
agreeable, and abound with pleas- 
ing promenades and country-seats, 
together with some gentle eleva- 
tions that command a view of the 
Alps. 

Winterthur is the second town 
in the canton of Zurich, four 
leagues from that city. It is 
seated on the Eulach, in a romantic 
valley, and consists of two large 
parallel streets, intersected by six 
lateral ones. It owes its origin to 
certain establishments formed by 
the squires of the counts of Win- 
terthur and Kyburg, and in parti- 
cular to Count Hartman of Ky- 
burg, who rendered it the capital of 
Thurgovia. Kodolph of Habsburg 
conferred many privileges upon 
the rising town, when Frederick, 
Duke of Austria, was put under 
the ban of the empire. The prin- 
cipal buildings and institutions are 
the church, the town house, the 
hospital, the college of gymnasium, 
the poor schools, the establish- 
ments for the relief of the poor, 
the orphan house, and the public 
library, which contains a number 
of Roman antiquities found in the 
neighbourhood, and several private 
collections. 

The environs of Winterthur are 
very interesting. The village of 



240 



KOUTE 41. — SWITZERLAND. CONSTANCE TO ST GALL. 



Ober Winterthur, on the road to 
Erauenfeld, about half a league 
from the town, is the site of the 
Vitodurum of the Komans. Here 
are still seen several remains of 
ancient buildings. The village of 
Kyburg, the ancient manorial re- 
sidence of the powerful counts of 
that name, is on the south of Win- 
terthur. The baths of Lorlibad 
are also at a short distance. 

Three leagues from Winterthur 
is Andelfingen, whose castle, in- 
habited b}^ the iDrefect, is a hand- 
some building. 

ROUTE 41. 

CONSTANCE TO ST GALL. 

Those only who have their own 
carriages would think of going by- 
land from Constance to Rorschach, 
when they can go by steam-boats 
for three francs ; the distance to 
the latter place is about eleven 
leagues. After leaving Constance 
we pass on the right the monas- 
teries of Krewtzlingen and Mun- 
sterlingen, and the old town of 
Romishorn, with a castle. This 
town existed in the time of the 
Romans, who had a camp here. 
The next town is Arbon, known 
to the Romans by the name of 
Arbor Felix. This town is small, 
having only 886 inhabitants. The 
tower of the castle is of the archi- 
tecture of the days of the Mero- 
vingian kings. Conradin, the last 
of the Ulustrious house of Hohen- 
staufen, resided here in 1266. 
Here also St Gall resided in re- 
tirement, for many years before 
his death. 

Rorschach (Inn, Crown'), a small 
pretty town in the canton of St 
Gall, containing 1,500 inhabitants. 
The port is the largest, the safest, 
and the most frequented of the 
lake, and the corn market is the 
most considerable in Switzerland: 
for most of the wheat consumed in 
the western and northern parts of 



that country is brought from 
Suabia by the Lake of Constance^ 
Upwards of 126,000 sacks of corn 
are imported annually. The parish 
church is a handsome edifice, and 
the tombs in the churchyard are 
tastefully, indeed expensively de- 
corated. The bishop of St Gall 
has a residence in this delightful 
and clean little town. An immense 
quantity of muslin is manufactured 
and bleached by the inhabitants, 
who excel in printing cotton. The 
diligence from St Gall stops at the 
Crown inn. Landing from the 
steam boat, passports are demand- 
ed, but returned instanter. Oppo- 
site Rorschach is Lindau ; but no 
person should think of going there 
unless their passport is vise by the 
Austrian minister. 

Pedestrians will at once decide 
to proceed to St Gall, a distance 
of two leagues and a half, all up- 
hill. This little journey, from 
Rorscach to St GaU, was my first 
attempt at the walking system ; 
no place could be better for the 
experiment; a gradual ascent until 
we reached a height of two thou- 
sand feet above the sea. The road 
is excellent, and may be walked 
in less time than the diligence takes 
to travel. Two diligences leave 
daily, at seven in the morning and 
six m the evening : fare, 40 kreut- 
zers; as, however, there is no- 
thing very particular to be seen at 
St Gall, and less at Appenzell, I 
would advise those who travel en 
voiture, and who do not intend to 
cross the mountains to Sennewald, 
to take the 

Carriage road by Rhe'meck, a 
neat little town, beautifully situa- 
ted, and from thence along the 
Rhinethal, or vaUey of the Rhine, 
to Ragatz. The Buchberg, and 
Watzerhausen command fine views, 
and may be easily visited from 
Rheineck: thence, through Au, to 
Altstettin, Ivoblewies, to Senne- 
wald. Li the belfry of the church 



SWITZERLAND — ROUTE 42. ST GALL. 



241 



of this last village may be seen, in 
a coflin with a glass lid, the body 
of Baron Hohensax, who was in- 
terred in the year 1596, and found, 
free from putrefaction, some years 
ago, when the church was repair- 
ed. Those who cross the mountain 
from the White Bath descend at 
Sennewald. The inn (the post) 
where the diligence from Coire to 
St Galls stops, is not a very sty- 
lish affair, but a good plain dinner 
may be had, and at a reasonable 
rate. 

ROUTE 42. 

ST GALL AND APPENZELL, TO 
PFEFFERS, FOR PEDESTRIANS. 

Si Gall.— Hotels. The Brocket, 
and Cheval Blanc : the first is the 
best ; it is situated in the market 
place. Two table d'hotes ; one at 
half-past twelve, the second at 
half- past eight o'clock in the even- 
ing. There are diligences to Zurich 
every morning, at seven ; there is 
no diligence from St Gall to Ap- 
penzell, but carriages and post- 
horses may be had to go round by 
Alt Slatter. Pedestrians should 
not attempt to cross the mountains 
to Appenzell without a guide. 

The town of St Gall, capital of 
the county of the same name, is 
built on the small river Stein ach, 
in a narrow but elevated valley. 
It contains several wide streets 
and public places, and is provided 
with a number of fountains, and is 
one of the most extensive com- 
mercial towns in Switzerland, and 
contains a number of manufac- 
tories. 

The celebrated Abbey of St 
Gall was founded near the end of 
the seventh century, under the 
auspices of Pepin d'Heristall, mayor 
of the palace to the King of Prance, 
and Waldram, a descendant of 
Count Talto, who once held the 
office of Ejng's Chamberlain. St 
Gall and St Magnoald, or Magnus, 



became patrons of the place ; two 
pious monks who had come into 
Helvetia to preach the gospel. St 
Gall, a Scotchman (or perhaps an 
Irishman), left the convent of 
Icolmkill, in Ion a, one of the 
Hebrides, accompanied by St Co- 
lumbanus, an Irishman, and St 
Sigibert, an Englishman, and jour- 
neyed into this country. After 
their separation, St GaU retired to 
Arbon, on the Lake of Constance, 
where he employed himself partly 
in agricultural, partly in pious 
labours. In 640 he died of a fever, 
and his tomb attracted an immense 
number of pilgrims, who built 
habitations around the monastery, 
and thus founded the town. 

The Cathedral is a modern build- 
ing, erected in 1755 ; and, as late 
as the year 1825, it was completely 
repaired and beautified ; indeed, 
without exception, it is the hand- 
somest Catholic church in Switzer- 
land ; the stairs leading to the 
organ-loft are particularly deserv- 
ing notice : the ceiling is entirely 
covered with fresco paintings, by 
Moreto, an Italian. 

St Gall has given birth to se- 
veral distinguished persons ; among 
whom may be specified the burgo- 
master Vadianus, and ZoUikofer, 
the writer of the celebrated ser- 
mons, well known in several foreign 
countries. 

Environs. 

The environs of St Gall contain 
several agreeable promenades, of 
which the principal one is near the 
eastern suburb of Briihl. The hills 
of the environs are of a very diver- 
sified character, some of them being 
secluded and solitary, whilst others 
present very fine open views. 

The Bridge of St Martin. The 
bridge of St Martin, built across 
the Goldach, in a wild ravine about 
a league from the town, is worth 
visiting. It is supported in the 
same manner as those of Wettin- 

M 



242 EOUTE 42. — ST GALL TO PFEFFERS. WEISBAD. PART IV. 



gen and Richenau. It was built 
in 1468 by Antony Falk, of St Gall, 
and is the oldest suspension-bridge 
in the east of Switzerland. 

The Speer. This mountain is the 
highest in the canton of St Gall. 
The road to it leads through Wild- 
haus, or rather through the Alt 
St Johann. The former village, 
which is the most elevated in the 
Toggenburg, is the birth-place of 
the reformer Zwingli. 

The Town of Trogden is situ- 
ated in a country overspread with 
forests and meadows, at the base 
of the Gabris mountain. It is a 
large and well-built burgh ; in the 
Great Place are a number of ex- 
tensive and handsome buildings. 
The residence of the landamman, 
or chief magistrate, is built with 
such taste, as to be perhaps scarcely 
excelled throughout Switzerland ; 
there is nothing, -however, in the 
town or its environs to induce 
travellers to go out of their way to 
visit it. 

The Gabris. The Gabris is a 
mountain distant about one league 
from Trogden. Large and hand- 
some chalets are met on its slope, 
and its summit commands a very 
fine view, extending to the Glar- 
nisch, in the canton of Glaris, and 
the Righi and Ruffi in that of 
Schwytz, as well as over the en- 
vironing cantons, the Lake of Con- 
stance, and the mountains of the 
Vorarlberg and Tyrol. 

Gais. A league beyond the 
Gabris is Gais, one of the finest 
villages in the canton. It is cele- 
brated for an excellent kind of 
milk, brought fresh every morn- 
ing from a mountain three or four 
leagues distant, which is much 
used by invalids. The houses are 
built in the best style of rustic 
architecture, and there are some 
which have quite a civic appear- 
ance ; nothing can exceed the 
cleanliness and comfort of these 
habitations. Near Gais is 



Amstoss, where, in 1405, the 
Austrians, under duke Frederick, 
were defeated by the Appenzell 
shepherds. 

Teufen lies in the road for pe- 
destrians from St Gall to Appenzell; 
it is a neat village, and is the 
birth-place of several distinguished 
individuals ; amongst others, Ul- 
rick Grubenman, who built the 
celebrated bridge at Schaffhausen, 
mentioned in the description of 
that town. 

APPENZELL, 

the chief bourg in the canton of 
that name, contains a population of 
about 1,400 inhabitants ; it is dirty, 
dull, and dismal, and appears com- 
pletely separated from anything 
cheerful or happy, excepting a 
smiling face of a tambour- worker, 
now and then to be seen peeping 
through the large windows as we 
tramped through the town. The 
noise of the roaring Sitter adds not 
a little to the melancholy ap- 
pearance of the place. The inns, 
too, appeared to share the fate of 
Dennis BuJgrudery's hotel upon 
Mucklush Heath — not a soul was 
to be seen, either inside or out. 
Myself and companion therefore 
hastened forward to the Weisbad, 
about two miles' distance from 
Appenzell, without even thinking 
of the lions usually to be met with 
in every town — to wit, a church, a 
a town-hall, a churchyard, and an 
ossuary ; not even a sight of the 
ragged banners which are to be 
seen in the church, could delay us 
from a good dinner, which we stood 
very much in need of, having 
walked from Rorschach to St Gall, 
and from St Gall to Appenzell, a 
distance of not less than twenty 
miles — chiefly up hill — not bad for 
beginners — at least I thought I had 
achieved wonders ; but the reader 
will readily believe our surprise, 
when arriving at this celebrated 
boarding-house, we found we had 



SWITZERLAIO). — ROUTE 42. WEISBAD TO PFEFFEES. 



243 



over-shot our mark— that not a 
single bed could be had for love or 
money. We, however, procured 
some veal cutlets, salad, bread, and 
wine, after which we obtained beds 
at a farm-house near the bad, where 
the stench from the cheese was 
quite overpowering. 

This asylum for overgrown chil- 
dren (the Weisbad), where they 
assemble annually to drink goats' 
milk, is a handsome building, at 
the foot of the Sentis ; the grounds 
are tastefully laid out in walks, 
terminating in paths leading up 
the mountains in aU directions ; the 
inmates, of which there were up- 
wards of two hundred, are usually 
composed of Germans and Swiss, 
who, for about two shillings Eng- 
lish money, are provided with 
lodging, breakfast, dinner, half a 
bottle of wine, goats' milk in the 
morning, card-playing in the mid- 
dle of the day, and dancing in the 
evening included. No wonder so 
many people turn children again, 
when they can live splendidly for 
fourteen shillings a week ! Every 
morning the peasants bring from 
the neighbouring mountains goats' 
milk and curds and whey, which 
they serve out in cups to the nu- 
merous invalids (?) who frequent 
the Weisbad and Gaiss. The people 
9.t the Weisbad say, that after two 
or three months' residence, drink- 
ing goats' milk, taking exercise on 
the mountains, joining in the 
dance, and other amusements, they 
return to their homes as healthy 
as the herdsmen who supply them 
with the milk. I should think so; 
iov I never saw a healthier set of 
invalids in my life than the visitors 
at the Weisbad. The following 
morning we engaged a guide (a 
very civil, good tempered man, 
named Jacob Beuraller, who will 
afford a fine opportunity to prac- 
tise your German), to conduct us 
across the mountain to Sennewald. 
We gave him five francs and some 



refreshment, with which he was 
perfectly satisfied : he provided 
mountain-poles, which are of great 
utility in descending, as well as 
ascending. The path commences 
at the gate of the Weisbad ; the 
ascent is easily accomplished in 
about two hours, and the descent 
about the same time. The Kamor 
is in front, the Sentis and Seealp 
on the right. The view from this 
pass is really beautiful. Looking 
back upon Appenzell and the 
neighbouring villages, you see 
thousands of chalets in every di- 
rection ; the foaming Sitter be- 
neath, and the snow- crowned Sentis 
above. This view is succeeded, as 
soon as you reach the summit, by 
one more extensive, including the 
Lake of Constance, the Tyrol, part 
of Wurtemberg, Bavaria, and 
Swabia. The third view presents 
itself on descending, embracing the 
chain of the Alps, the whole valley 
of the Rhine, and the numerous 
villages through which your road- 
lies to the baths of Pfeffers. 

Having descended to Senne- 
wald, we there discharged our 
guide, dined, and walked as far as 
Werdenberg, a distance of three 
leagues. This little town is not 
remarkable for the style of its 
hotels. There are three : at the 
Poste we obtained good refresh- 
ment and clean beds, for which 
we were charged very moderate- 
ly ; supper, bed, and breakfast, 
four francs each, including wine. 
Above the town are the ruins of 
the castle, once the residence of 
the illustrious family Werden- 
barg. The mountain, Grabs, at 
a short distance, commands a fine 
view. Werdenburg is six leagues 
from Alstatten, and five and a 
half from Ragatz. A one-horse 
carriage may be hired here to the 
latter place for six francs ; it is a 
beautiful ride, but rather a warm 
walk. — See Hint the ninth. — Af- 
ter passing through the villages 



244 



KOUTB 42.— BATHS OF PFEFFERS. PART IV. 



of Buchs iand Sewelen, leaving 
Sargans on the right, and Mayen- 
field on the left, we arrived at 
Ragatz. At this little village 
there are two inns. Hotel Ragatz, 
and Hotel Tamina. 

Conveyances to the haths of 
Pfeffers. 

Diliqences for Coire twice a day. 

Travellers leave their carriages 
Jiere and proceed on horseback, m 
chairs, or on foot, to the 

Celebrated Baths of Pfeffers, 
distant only three and a half Eng- 
lish miles by the old road, although 
I really thought it seven, so very 
steep and difficult is the first part, 
which occupies about three-quar- 
ters of an hour in passing. The 
second part, through meadows, pas- 
tures, high mountains, on the right, 
the roaring Tamina on the left, 
occupied another hour ; and from 
the village of Valenz to the baths, a 
quarter of an hour ; a new road, 
much shorter, has lately been 
made ; this latter part is so steep, 
that it is dangerous to attempt 
to ride. I could not ride, for a 
very particular reason — I had 
no horse ; but so convinced was 
I that a horse would be useful 
goina up, that when I returned 
to Ragatz, and found inserted in 
the strangers' book, July 24th, 1843, 
a recommendation from Lady — 
(I forget the name), for every per- 
son to visit the baths, I took 
the hberty of recommending, 
through the same channel, every 
person who did go to ride up, if 
they could afibrd it. Walk or 
ride, it is a most extraordinary 
place ; the breadth of the ravme, 
in which these celebrated baths 
are built, is not more than two 
hundred feet ; the rocks on each 
side are nearly or quite perpen- 
dicular, and almost eight hundred 
English feet high. Indeed, so 
small is the aperture above, that 
the sun is to be seen for four 
hours only, during the months of 



July and August — from eleveni 
o'clock till three. The house, or 
rather houses, for the habitable 
part of the buildings are divided 
by the chapel, belonged to a com- 
munity of monks. The Benedic- 
tine abbey of Pfefiers was founded 
in 720. Until 1790 the entire 
valley of the Tamina or Pfeffers, 
with the burgh of Ragatz, &c., 
was subject to the abbot. The 
present buildings were begun in 
1665. Coming by the convent to 
the baths, distant one league, the 
journey may be continued on horse- 
back as far as some detached 
houses, from which it is necessary 
to descend on foot a sort of stair- 
case called the Stiege ; but pedes- 
trians shoidd choose the road by 
Valenz from Ragatz to the baths, 
and return by the Stiege and the 
abbey of Pfeffers. They may, if 
they wish, descend from the abbey 
to Tardisbruch, and proceed thence 
to Coire, or foUow the road to 
Reichenau, which is also in the 
canton of the Grisons, by Vettis 
and the Kunkelsberg. At a few 
minutes' distance from the stair- 
case, on returning from it, a curious 
view of the baths below is obtained 
from the edge of a precipice. 

The source of the baths at Pfef- 
fers is said to have been found 
out in 1038, by Charles of Hohen- 
balken, a hunter in the service of 
the prince-abbot ; others assign 
the date 1240 to the discovery. 
Until the beginning of the fifteenth 
century the waters were sought at 
the source ; but a house was sub- 
sequently buUt, which was, how- 
ever, only to be entered through 
the roof, and that with the assist- 
ance of ropes and ladders. In 1630, 
Jodocus Hoslin, abbot of Pfeffers, 
caused some huts to be erected, and 
about the middle of the seventeenth 
century the abbot then in authority 
modified the entire into the present 
form, which was finished in 1671. 
The two buildings accommodate 



SWITZEBLAND.— ROUTE 42. BATHS OJF PFEFFERS, 



245 



from three to four hundred per- 
sons ; but most of the apartments 
are destitute of fire-places. In 
order to secure comfortable lodg- 
ing, it is necessary to write to the 
director of the abbey of Pfeffers 
early in the year ; although the 
season for drinking is only from 
June to September. There are 
fourteen apartments for bathing. 
The two sexes do not bathe toge- 
ther, as at the baths of Leuk. The 
waters are also taken internally. 
They are found chiefly useful in 
chronic complaints, arising from a 
disordered state of the humours, 
and a derangement of the more 
subtle ducts of the body, and also 
in stomachic debility. 

The few promenades which the 
sickly inhabitants of this Tartarean 
region have the means of enjoying 
are a platform, elevated in front of 
the principal building, and some 
steep paths, where several resting- 
places have been contrived. Occa* 
sional visitants, however, or resi- 
dents who enjoy good health, can 
make a variety of delightful excur- 
sions. About half a league from 
the houses at the top of the Stiege, 
or Great Staircase, is a pretty 
hamlet { and another half a league 
farther, a saw-mill in a very pic- 
turesque country, watered by the 
Tamina, which forms here a hand- 
some cascade. 

A-fter partaking a good dinner, 
we took a guide belonging to the 
baths, and proceeded to the source. 
The natural wildness of this re- 
markable place, and the healing 
qualities of the waters, have no 
other than an accidental associa- 
tion. The Tamina, a torrent, well 
fed by glaciers, has worked its way 
into a huge fissure of the rocks, 
out of which it issues but a short 
distance from the building, and 
passes roaring into the Rhine, near 
Ragatz. The hot springs are in no 
manner connected with this stream : 
they gush from a rock at the side 



of the torrent ; and would be alto- 
gether lost in it, had not artificial 
means been used to conduct a part 
of their water to the dwelling. 

Emerging from the pump-room, 
we crossed a narrow platform of 
planks, laid about thirty feet 
above the bed of the stream. This 
bridge crosses the gorge ; after 
which we followed the guide 
along the planks, secured to the 
rocks by iron clamps. After pro- 
ceeding some distance in this man- 
ner, the precipice graduaUy closing 
above our heads, and the angry 
torrent leaping violently from rock 
to rock beneath, we entered a 
cavern. At this spot the path of 
the upper world crosses the gorge, 
the width of which, at this point, 
is reduced to forty feet, while its 
height is near two hundred and 

fifty. 

The distance must exceed a 
quarter of a mile. The planks 
were wet, occasioned by tlie 
droppings down the sides of the 
rocks; so mucn so, that I should 
have found an umbrella very ser- 
viceable. At some places the 
overhanging rocks compelled us to 
bend our heads aside. The roaring 
torrent beneath the eye, and stun- 
ning the ear with its eternal din, 
served to make the excursion dizzy, 
dangerous, and dismal, but, at the 
same time, so truly interesting, 
that I do not know any sight I 
saw in Switzerland that I would 
not have neglected to have seen 
this "infernal" place, which Mr 
Cooper says is the best epithet to 
describe it. To one of strong 
nerves, there is no great danger ; 
but nervous people had better 
avoid the place. Always stand 
quite still while looking at the dif- 
ferent remarkable points of view 
which present themselves. 

The route is sufiiciently crooked 
to keep expectation alive; and the 
bridge of planks, at first, seemed 
endless ; but it terminates at the 



246 



ROUTE 4S.— EAGATZ TO ZtJRICH. PART IV. 



point where the hot springs gush 
from the rock, and where they are 
first received into a small cave, into 
which the guide entered with a 
lighted candle. There the water 
was bubbling away, and so hot that 
I could scarcely bear my hand in it. 
Above this cistern, which is kept 
locked, there is a chasm in the 
rock, out of which tumbles the 
superfluous water, which is allowed 
to fall into the Tamina below. 
Clambering up this, after the guide, 
I got a warm bath without the 
trouble of undressing. 

For the information of those who 
would wish to dine in a company of 
between 200 and 300 persons, the 
dinner hours are twelve o'clock for 
the second class, and one o'clock 
for the first class. They give a 
good dinner, including a bottle of 
wine, for 1 florin 6 kreutzers. 
There is a tariflf hung up in the 
hall, regulating the charges for 
guides conducting travellers to the 
source. 

KOUTE 43. 

KAGATZ TO ZURICH BY WALLEN- 
STADT. 

Diligences pass through Ragatz 
to Coire, to St Gall, and to Wallen- 
stadt daily; the fare from Ragatz 
to Wallenstadt is 3 francs ; the 
hire of a private carriage, for two 
persons, is 7 francs ; the distance 
is about four leagues, through Sar- 
gans. 

Sargans is the chief place in the 
country of the same name, and 
once the capital of a canton that 
existed for a short time during the 
French occupation of Switzerland. 
This small town is situated at the 
foot of the Schollberg, between the 
Rhine and theSeez. The original 
houses were made of wood, but 
several handsome stone edifices 
have been erected since the confla- 
gration of 1811. The castle of the 
ancient counts is built upon an 



eminence, which commands a very 
fine vie vr. Sargans contains a po- 
pulation of 700 inhabitants. 

Wallenstadt (Hotels dear and dirty) 
is near the eastern extremity of the 
lake, and within the district of the 
same name; it is distant three 
leagues from Sargans. It stands 
at the foot of the mountains Sichel- 
kamm, and Ochsenkamm, in a 
swampy and unwholesome country. 
Marsh plants grow in some of its 
streets. Since the works of the 
Linth canal were undertaken, it 
has, however, been less subject to 
inundations than before. It enjoys 
a considerable transit trade, owing 
to its proximity to the lake, which 
is a great channel of communicatioiti 
between Zurich and Italy for goods 
conveyed through the canton of the 
Grisons. 

The Lake of Wallenstadt is con- 
sidered to be the most dangerous 
in Switzerland, owing to the preva- 
lence of a wind called the biatliser, 
and the steepness with which the 
surrounding mountains descend 
into the water. The boatmen, 
however, are subjected to such 
strict regulations for ensuring the 
safety of visitants, that little risk 
is to be apprehended by those who 
are not rash enough to embark 
under unfavourable circumstances. 
The length of this lake is about 
four leagues, its breadth about one. 
In addition to the port of Wallen- 
stadt at the eastern, and Wesen at 
the western, extremity, there are 
but few landing places along its' 
shores On the northern there is 
no other than Quinten ; on the 
southern Mutlihorn ; the peaks 
that surround the chain of moun- 
tains which enclose it on the north, 
are called the Seven Electors. The 
river Seez enters its eastern extre- 
mity; the Linth, wrought into a 
canal, its western, forming a com- 
munication between it and the Lake 
of Zurich ; thus preventing those 
inundations which formerly deso- 



SWITZERLAND. -^ROUTE 43. RAGATZ TO ZURICH. 



247 



lated the village of Wallenstadt. 
Near Wesen is a black marble slab, 
fixed iu the cliff, to the memory of 
Conrad Escher, under whose direc- 
tion the canal was cut. Several 
cascades fall into this lake. At 
Quinten, the only landing place on 
the north side, there is a magnifi- 
cent waterfall, but to see it to per- 
fection you must go some way up 
the little valley ; at this dehghtful 
spot an hotel was building last 
July, which I presume, by the time 
this guide gets into requisition, 
will be completed. The great eagle 
of the Alps builds its nest among 
the rocks above this lake. 

A steam -packet runs twice a day 
between Wallenstadt and Wesen; 
fare, 2 francs. 

Wesen, a small t6wn in the can- 
ton of St GaU, is situated at the 
western extremity of the Lake of 
Wallenstadt. In the time of the 
Romans it was a place of much 
consideration, communicating with 
several military stations in the 
neighbourhood ; the situation of 
this httle town is beautiful, from 
whence excursions can conveniently 
be made to Ndfels, Glaris, &c. The 
distance to the latter place is about 
two leagues, and to the former one 
league. The principal and best 
situated hotel at Wesen is the Epee ; 
excellent trout here. Carriages 
convey travellers to Zurich or Rap- 
perschwyl. 

The Linth Canal. The Linth 
Canal is one of the most important 
works undertaken within latter 
years in Switzerland. The river, 
being surcharged with the accumu- 
lated matter that is continually 
carried down the current of the 
Mag, whch joins it about half a 
league from Wesen, frequently 
overflowed its banks, and converted 
the fields, between that town and 
Nafels, into a marsh; and the exha- 
lations of the stagnant waters occa- 
sioned maladies, the influence of 
which extended even to Zurich. 



At length the Swiss Diet, in 1804, 
took the matter seriously into con- 
sideration. The principal object 
was to divert the course of the 
Linth towards the Lake of Zurich. 
The part of it intervening between 
Nafels and Wesen has been wrought 
into a canal, which joins the lake, 
and again emerging from it, unites 
it with that of Zurich. The stag- 
nant waters, with which the fields 
were formerly overspread, are 
drained off by means of channels 
skilfully wrought. 

Ndfels is noticed as the spot 
where one of the most celebrated 
of battles recorded in Swiss history 
was fought, on the 9th of April, 
1388, when the men of Glaris de- 
feated the Austrian army, six 
times their number. Eleven stones, 
disposed in different directions, 
with the date 1388, mark the dif- 
ferent spots where the enemy vainly 
renewed the charge. The anniver- 
sary of this victory is celebrated 
annually. The Catholics go in 
procession to the field, and the Pro- 
testants celebrate divine service in 
their churches. An account of the 
battle is always read upon the spot, 
wherein particular mention is made 
of the heroic deeds of the day. On 
the spot where the handsome 
church of the burgh has been 
erected, a chapel once stood, which 
was raised in commemoration of 
the victory. On or near the same 
spot, a battle took place between 
the French and Russians in 1799. 

The town contains 300 houses, 
and 1,600 inhabitants ; a great 
many of whom are engaged in ma- 
nufactures. 

Glaris is proj)erly the capital of 
the canton of the same name, and 
in particular of the Protestant part; 
it is situated in the principal valley 
of that mountainous canton. It is 
watered by the Linth, and is one 
of the greatest manufacturing 
towns of Switzerland. It possesses 
also a number of mills for prepar- 



248 



ROUTE 43.— KAGATZ TO ZtTkiQU. PART Iti 



ing the celebrated green or schab- 
zieger cheese. Some of the houses 
exhibit on the exterior grotesque 
fresco paintings, of either single 
figures or groups. 

The Cathedral, a Gothic edifice, 
dedicated to St Friedolin, an Irish- 
man, who disseminated Christianity 
throughout this part of Switzer- 
land, is appropriated both to the 
Protestant and Catholic service. 
The town house, where may be 
seen some very large horns of the 
great goat called steinbock, a kind 
which was completely destroyed in 
this canton about the end of the 
sixteenth century; here also is a 
bear, killed in 1716. 

To proceed from Nafels to Eap- 
perschwyl, a distance of eight 
leagues, it will be necessary to re- 
trace the road to Urnen ; here 
there are two roads, one through 
the canton Schwiez, the other (the 
best) through the district of Gaster, 
through Kalsbrun and Uznach, in 
the canton St Gall, to Schanis (a 
handsome burgh), which was once 
the chief place of the district. At 
Schanis there is a chapter of noble 
dames, founded in 806 by Hunfried, 
whom Charlemagne had elevated 
to the dignity of Count of Coire. 
It was subsequently patronized by 
the counts of Lenzburg. Here 
also, on the 25th and 26th Sept., 
1799, the French and Anstrians 
fought. In this affair General 
Hotze fell ; a small monument be- 
side the road has been erected to 
his memory. Pedestrians will find 
the towing-path along the side of 
the canal very pleasant : turn to 
the right at the last bridge, half- 
way between which and the town 
of Uznach on the left there is a 
footpath, leading to Schmerikon, a 
prettily situated village, at the be- 
ginning of the Lake of Zurich, and 
remarkable for containing a num- 
ber of hotels, alias public houses, 
whose gaudy signs outside ought 
not to tempt travellers to venture 



inside. Those who may feel tired ^ 
yet anxious to proceed to Kapper- 
schwyl, will be overjoyed to learn, 
as I was, that a small carriage to 
the latter place may be had from 
here for three francs. I may as 
well here mention (to put others on 
their guard) a little trick played 
by the young gentleman who drove 
us. After giving him a franc for 
himself, he very coolly went below, 
and ordered refreshments to the 
amount of another franc, which 
was, in the most obliging manner, 
charged in our bill. It iS' but jus- 
tice to say, that the landlord of the 
Poste oflered to deduct it, with a 
hint that he would knock it out of 
the young gentleman the next time 
he favoured him with a visit. My 
travelling companion, whom I al- 
ways took for a person of great saga- 
city (a Yorkshire man), interpreted 
the affair in the following manner : 
the landlord, says he, gave the re- 
freshment as a bonus for driving 
us to his house ; and as we were 
the parties benefited ! — and not the 
landlord — it was but proper we 
should pay the bounty. As, how- 
ever, I don't wish travellers to trust 
to chance in these matters, I beg 
to say, that the Poste is not the 
best hotel ; try the Paon d'or. 

Rapperschwyl, in the canton of 
St Gall, is, or rather was, a town of 
considerable importance, contain- 
ing a population of 1,462 souls, and 
258 houses. It was built in 1091, 
by Count Eodolph, on his return 
from foreign lands, and long bore 
the name of RuprechtsviUa. It 
was burnt, in 1350, by the burgo- 
master Brun, of Zurich, but speedily 
rebuilt by Duke Leopold of Aus- 
tria. The first battle between the 
French forces and those of the de- 
mocratic cantons took place on the 
30th of April, 1798, near Rapper- 
schwyl. The parochial church and 
the ancient castle are built at a 
considerable elevation, from the 
terrace of which there is a beautiful 



SWITZERLAND. — ROUTE 44. ZURICH. 



249 



view, and near the lake is a Capu- 
chin convent. The bridge which 
traverses the lake is iu length 4,800 
feet by twelve in breadth ; except 
for a short distance it is unpro- 
vided with any railing. It was 
built in 1358, by order of Duke 
Leopold, and repaired in 1819, The 
toll to get on this ticklish affair is 
one batz and a half. If you go 
beyond the little chapel, and then 
return, you must pay to get off. 
The new building facing the pier 
is a corn mai'ket. At Jonen, near 
Rapperschwyl, a Koman altar was 
found, which is inserted in the wall 
of the church. The best hotel at 
Rapperschwyl is the Paon, plea- 
santly situated outside the gate of 
the town, near the lake, command- 
ing extensive views. A table d'hote 
at half-past twelve, price 3 fr., wine 
included ; beds, 2 fr. The other ho- 
tel, already mentioned, is the Frey- 
hof, and post-house, in the centre of 
the town. 

Steam Packets leave for Zurich in 
the morning at five o'clock, and, on 
certain days, at two in the after- 
noon. However, I found they did 
not run very regularly. The fare 
from Rapperschwyl to Zurich, is 
three francs and a half. Refresh- 
ments may be had on board at rea- 
sonable prices. 

Diligences every evening at half 
past nine, for "Wesen, Wallenstadt, 
Ragatz, and Coire. 

The Abbey of Einsiedeln, 

should properly be visited from Rap- 
perschwyl, the distance to which, 
after crossing the lake, is about four 
leagues. It is considered the most 
celebrated resort for pilgrims in 
Europe, with the exception of Lo- 
retto, in Italy. 

The abbey, which was rebuilt in 
1704, after a conflagration, presents 
one of the finest exteriors in Swit- 
zerland. The front building con- 
sists of three pavilions, with two 
wings. The church, with its two 



lateral towers aud turrets at the an- 
gles, all of which are surmounted by 
spires, opens upon a spacious terrace, 
or platform, and is approached by a 
flight of steps, having on each side 
arcades, with a range of booths, 
where, as in the shops of the village, 
rosaries, books, and other articles, 
are exposed for sale. 

SECOND JOURNEY. 

ROUTE 44. 

Zurich, Baden, Mont Alhis Zug, 
the Righi, Lucerne, Altorf, Mont St, 
Got hard, the Furca, Grimsel, Me- 
ryngen, the Glaciers of Grindelwald, 
Fall of the Stubbach, Inter lachen, 
Thun. 

ZURICH. 

Hotels. Hotel Baur, a large 
iirst-rate establishment, excellent 
accommodation, good attendance, 
and extreme civility. 

Hotel du Lac, good, and mode- 
rate — situation most lovely, on the 
border of the lake, commanding beau- 
tiful views ; charges for beds, from 
1 fr. 60 c. ; breakfast, 1 fr. 50 c, iu 
the salle a manger. Table d'hote, 
at one o'clock; 3 frs.; at five o'clock, 
4 frs. wine included. Families re- 
ceived as boarders from the first of 
October, for the winter, on moderate 
terms. 

Hotel de VEpee, Courronne, and 
Bellevue. 

Zurich contains a population of 
19,000, and is supposed to be 1,279 
feet above the level of the sea. 
This city extends along both shores 
of the limpid Limmat, which issues 
from the lake in the interior, and 
receives the Wolfsbach, and an arm 
of the Syl. That part of the city 
on the right bank of the lake is 
called the Grande Ville, and ex- 
tends to the foot of Zurichberg and 
Susenberg, including a number of 
streets upon an ascent. The Pe- 
tite Ville, built upon the hills of 
Lindenhoff and St. Pierre, is also 



250 



ROUTE 44. — ZURICH. PART lY. 



upon an ascent: in fact, the fine 
suburbs of Thalacker and Stadel- 
hosen, are the only parts where the 
streets are level. The communica- 
tion with the diiferent parts of 
Zurich is kept up hy means of five 
bridges. 

The Cathedral, — The origin of 
this church, which was dedicated 
to the martyrs, Felix and Regala, 
is involved in obscurity. It is sup- 
posed, however, to have been ori- 
ginally founded by Ruppert, king 
of the Franks, who is probably 
identical with Robert, an Alleman, 
to whom its foundation is also 
ascribed, about the end of the 
seventeenth century, whose brother 
YVickart planted the first Christian 
church at Lucerne. Others attri- 
bute its foundation to the emperor 
Otho. The antique appearance of 
the exterior, adorned with grim 
figures of Ruppert and Chai'lemagne, 
renders it interesting ; but the inte- 
rest ceases there, as the interior 
contains nothing remarkable. The 
lower chapel, as it is called, con- 
tains some monuments ; the two 
towers are of more recent construc- 
tion than the main building. The 
view from the summit is very fine. 
Adjoining the cathedral is the 
court of the ancient monaster}', sur- 
rounded with a picture, which is a 
curious specimen of the spacious ar- 
chitecture called Byzantine. 

Abbey of our Lady was founded 
862, by Lewis the Germanic, in 
behalf of his daughter Hildergard, 
to whom also he assigned consider- 
able revenues. Her figure may 
still be seen in the ancient choir 
of the church : she is represented 
in the act of receiving from her 
father the veil and crosier of an 
abbess. The extravagance of one 
of the abbesses, Elizabeth of Mat- 
zingen, was such, as to attract the 
animadversion of the government, 
and lead to the suppression of the 
sisterhood. Her chief offence was 
the inordinate gratification of her 



palate ; a ragout, made of the livers 
of eel pouts, was her favourite 
dish. The cathedral and this abbey 
are built opposite to each other, 
and at opposite sides of the river. 
The Church of Si. Peter. This 
church was erected in 1705, upon 
a small hill between St. Peter's 
place, and the Lindenhof. Its clock 
is the largest in Zurich. The cele- 
brated Lavater, who was for some 
time one of the pastors of this 
church, occupied the old parsonage 
adjoining. In the space before 
this church he was killed. The 
Bathshaus {palais hotel de ville), 
government house, is built above 
the Lamat, near the Untere Brlicke, 
and nearly in the centre of the city. 
Several curious antique stones may 
be seen in this edifice. The Lyceum 
was founded by Charlemagne and is 
hence called also the Carolinian 
college, and sometimes Carolinian 
library, from a fine collection of 
theological and dogmatical works 
which it contains. The Stadtbiblio- 
thek, ox public library^ in the Was- 
serkirch. Here is a model in relief, 
which comprehends the greater 
part of Switzerland, a collection of 
minerals, and a numismatic cabinet. 
The library possesses above fifty 
thousand volumes disposed in three 
arched galleries, and a variety of 
curious manuscripts, together with 
a collection of medals and Roman 
antiquities. Among the most 
valuable documents are the origi- 
nal manuscripts of Quintillian ; 
part of the Codex Yaticanus, on 
violet parchment ; a Latin corre- 
spondence between Lady Jane Grey 
and Bullinger; the handwriting of 
Elmer, her schoolmaster ; of Zwin- 
gli ; of Henry IV. of France; and 
of his relations, Catherine and Joan 
of Navarre ; of Walter Tochetemann, 
&c. A copy of the Codex Alex- 
andrines is also shown, which was 
presented by Mr. Baker, of the 
British Museum ; and likewise a 
collection of books, relating prin- 



SWITZEELAifD.— ROUTE 44. ZIJKICH. 



251 



cipally to the Jesuits, presented 
by j\ir Thomas Hollis, an English 
gentleman. This library is adorned 
with busts of Lavater, by Dan- 
neker, of Bodmer, Breitinger, 
Gessner, Steinbrucker, and Hager- 
buch. It also contains a pair of 
gloves, a seizure from the monks 
of St Gall, and some curious old 
pictures ; among others, one repre- 
senting the seven brothers Eschen- 
bach upon their knees ; another, 
of the three martyrs of Zurich, 
Felix, Regula, and Exuperans, 
bearing their heads in their hands ; 
the best portraits existing of Zwingli 
and his wife ; various coats of arms, 
as that of Toggenburg ; numerous 
portraits of chief magistrates, from 
1336 to 1798, &c. There is also a 
collection of minerals, and a very 
exact model of Switzerland, by 
;Mr Muiler, of Engelberg ; and an 
ethnological collection, presented 
by iMr Horner, brother to the 
librarian, Professor H., who accom- \ 
panied Krusenstern in his voyage ' 
round the world. Among these ! 
are two volumes representing 
Chinese deities, games, and occu- 
pations, which are finely illu- 
minated. The public library is , 
called the ' Wasser Kirche,' or i 
' Water church,' probably owing ! 
to its situation. Its place was i 
originally occupied by a chapel | 
dedicated to the three martyrs just ! 
mentioned, Avho are said to have been I 
decapitated on the spot ; and is the ; 
site of the well known legend of! 
the serpent, that came to demand ' 
justice of Charlemagne while sitting 
at his dinner table. The Old 
Arsenal contains a variety of old 
armour, highly polished, Wil- ; 
liam Teli's cross-bow, and several ' 
banners of the fifteenth and six- I 
teenth centuries. The Wellenberg | 
Tower, at the entrance of the lake, ' 
formerly a prison, and destined 
solely for those condemned to 
capital punishment, and adulterers. 
The Buck or Goat Club arose in 



consequence of the civil dissensions 
which, from 1436 to. 1447. deso- 
lated Switzerland, and nearly de- 
stroyed the federal union. A mili- 
tary society was at that time 
formed, which assumed the name of 
the Ziegenbock, from each member 
having sculptured on his house the 
head of a he-goat, and from their 
using a machine of that form, like 
the battering-ram of the ancients, 
to make breaches in the places 
which they besieged. 

Promenades. The promenades of 
Zurich: the Lindenhof, a fine ter- 
race, elevated 125 feet above the 
Limmat, and planted with lime 
trees. Here stood formerly the 
palace of the counts and the impe- 
rial generals. The Katze, an ele- 
vated bastion, which commands a 
fine view. The Bauschanze, or 
Kratzschanze, a bastion built in the 
water, and laid out as a garden. It 
communicates with the land by a 
bridge provided with seats, whence 
there is a good view of the city, 
and from whence the steam -packets 
depart, and arrive. The Baugan- 
ten, with a pavilion, which com- 
mands one of the finest views about 
Zurich ; here stands a tower called 
the Kratzthurm. The Shooting- 
house, approached by a handsome 
avenue of trees The New, or High 
Promenade, a very fine walk along 
the ramparts, which leads to the 
Giesberg bastion, where there is an 
extensive point of view. 

Outside the town is the Great 
Promenade — a peninsula formed by 
the Sihl and Limmat, a little to the 
north of the Little Town, and 
bounded also by the moat of the 
Schanzengraben ; a delightful walk 
along the two rivers. It is also 
called ' Gessner's Promenade,' as 
containing the monument of the 
distinguished author of the Idyls, 
executed in bas-relief by Trippel. 
A medallion of Gessner is added ; 
his bust stands at a little distance 



254 



ROUTE 46. — ZURICH TO LUCERNE. TART lY. 



On returning to Zurich by the 
north-eastern shore of the lake, 
the first village is Feldbaeh, beyond 
which is Staffa, opposite to Eich- 
tenschwyl, and situated a league 
and a half from Rapperschwyl. 
Stafia is esteemed one of the finest 
villages in Switzerland. At the 
extremity of a sort of mole adjoin- 
ing, there is a fine point of view. 
Near the hotel are the sulphur 
baths of Wannen. The church of 
Staffa commands a very fine view. 
Beyond Mannerdorf is Uetikon, 
and further on Meilan, nearly three 
leagues from Kapperschwyl, and 
also a considerable village opposite 
to Horgen. Heniliberg, opposite to 
Oberrieden, and Erlenbach, suc- 
ceed. Further on is the large and 
fine village of Kiissnacht, which is 
provided with excellent baths. 

During the warmest months of 
the year, this lake, in common with 
the rest to the northward of the 
Alps, exercises a considerable swell, 
which generally causes it to extend 
far beyond its ordinary limits. The 
mountains of snow and the enormous 
glaciers are evidently the cause of 
this phenomenon, occasioned by the 
operation of the heat upon these 
frozen regions, and frequently pro- 
ducing a rise in the waters fifteen 
feet above their common level. In 
summer, when the Ehine receives 
an overflow of the waters of the 
Alps, this river also attains its 
maximum in height. The lake of 
Zurich produces thirty different 
species of fish, which Melchoir 
Fussli has represented in two large 
paintings that embellish one of the 
vestibules of the hotel de ville at 
Zurich. Great quantities of salmon, 
with trout, carp, &c., are found in 
this lake, and boats of several tons 
burden navigate it. The upper 
part, extending from Schmerikon 
and Lacken to Rapperschwyl, is 
frozen almost every year; but the 
other parts are seldom covered with 
ice, excepting in very hard winters. 



The shores of the lake of Zurich 
are certainly among the most in- 
teresting parts of Switzerland. 
Of forty castles, which formerly 
crowned this fine piece of water, 
the remains of four are only now 
to be seen. There are eighteen 
parochial villages ; which, with the 
houses of individuals on each side, 
contain from 30,000 to 35,000 in- 
habitants. 

Baden, so celebrated for its baths, 
described at page 233, is only four 
leagues distant from Zurich, and 
may be visited either going from 
Basle to Schaffhausen, or from 
Zurich; the road from the latter 
place is much the best, and the 
distance being so short, an excur- 
sion there and back may be made 
the same day. 

EOUTE 46. 

ZURICH TO LUCERNE BY THE RIGHI 
OVER MONT ALBIS. 

About forty English miles. 

There are three routes from 
Zurich to Zug. The road across 
the mountain is through Wallis- 
hofen, one league ; to Adlischwyl, 
one league and a half; to Husen, 
two leagues ; to Cappel, half a 
league ; to Zug, one league and a 
half— in all, six leagues ; the second 
is through I^jronau, and the third 
through Horgen ; at the latter 
place an omnibus waits the arrival 
of the steam packet from Zurich, 
and goes direct to Art. 

When travellers hire a carriage 
from Zurich to Zug, it is cheaper 
to start in the morning than the 
afternoon ; see introduction, hiring 
carriages. 

The view from the Albis moun- 
tain comprehends on the east the 
entire lake, and a great part of the 
canton of Zurich ; on the north, 
the prospect extends to the Black 
Forest in Germany. On the west 
it is bounded by the Jura, in the 



SWITZERLAND.— ROUTE 46. ZUG. 



255 



cantons of Basil and Solothurn ; 
but extends in a south-westerly 
direction across the hills of Argo- 
via and Lucerne to the Stockhorn 
and the Msen, and the mountains 
of the Emmen Thai and Entlibuch, 
with the Pilatus terminating the 
chain. On the south extends the 
lake of Zug, the small lake of 
Turler, great part of the can- 
tons of Lucerne, Argovia, and 
Zug, with the whole chain of Alps 
from the Pilatus to Sargans, and 
thence to the Sentis in the canton 
of Appenzell, together with the 
Jungfrau towering above the val- 
ley of Lauterbrunnen, and thePin- 
steraahorn in the extreme distance. 

ZUG. 

Inns. The only good hotel is 
the Cerf. 

Zug is agreeably situated between 
the lake and mountain of the same 
name, and contains a population of 
3,000 inhabitants. The preserva- 
tion of the old walls, towers, &c., 
gives the town a picturesque ap- 
pearance. The opening of the year 
1435 was so cold in Switzerland 
that even the lakes were frozen. 
On the 4th of March, when the ice 
began to melt, the earth was seen 
to open in that part of the town of 
Zug which was nearest to the 
shore. On the approach of night 
ia frightful noise was heard, suc- 
ceeded by the total disappearance 
of two entire streets, with part 
of the town walls, which sunk into 
the lake. Among others, the chief 
magistrate perished ; but his child, 
named Adelrich, who was found 
floating in his cradle on the lake, 
was saved, and became in process 
of time Landamman of the repub- 
lic. The archives of the town were 
lost in the convulsion. Some 
public works, commenced in 1433, 
for the purpose of drawing off the 
waters of the lake, are considered 
to have been one cause of this 
catastrophe. In 1594 a similar 



calamity occurred ; and in 1795 
great part of the town was de- 
stroyed by a conflagration. Zug 
is so ancient that its origin is past 
record ; it is supposed to have 
been one of the towns destroyed 
by the Helvetian inhabitants, as 
mentioned in ' Caesar's Commenta- 
ries.' 

The Lake of Zug is four leagues 
long and one wjde, and in many 
places from 180 to 200 feet deep ; 
it abounds with fish, though not, 
as some writers affirm, weighing 
from fifty to ninety pounds. I 
made every inquiry, and found 
that the largest fish ever remem- 
bered to have been caught was a 
pike, of forty pounds weight ; and 
the largest carp, fifteen pounds. 

Diligence. To Lucerne daily, at 
half-past two ; fare, 4^ francs. 
To Zurich daily, at ten in the 
morning; fare, 3|^ francs. To Art 
daily, at half-past twelve ; fare, 
12 batz. Luggage forwarded by 
diligence is charged two kreutzers 
the pound. 

An Excursion to the Battle-field 
of Morgarten may be made from 
Zug. This region became remark- 
able by the famous battle of Mor- 
garten, fought in the vicinity, 
on the 15th of November, 1315, 
wherein Duke Leopold of Austria 
was defeated by a small force. 
Walter Piirst, of Attinghausen, 
and William Tell, are said to have 
been present on this occasion. 
Morgarten is the name of a hill, 
three leagues and a half from Zug, 
rising above the eastern shore of 
the lake of Egerie ; which, at the 
period when the battle was fought, 
rose much higher than at present. 
A chapel, dedicated to St James, 
was subsequently erected upon the 
spot. Another battle was fought 
here, on the 2d of May, 1798, 
between the Schwytzers and the 
French, wherein the latter were 
defeated. Indeed, in every direc- 
tion, either by land or water, de- 



256 



ROUTE 46. — ZURICH TO LUCERNE. 3?ART IV. 



lightful excursions may be made 
from this charming spot. 

Boats may be hired to Art ; the 
distance, either by the lake or road, 
is two leagues. The average time 
by the boat is two hours and a 
half; the diligence occupies one 
hour and a half ; fare, twelve batz. 
The hire of a Isoat to Art, with 
three rowers, is two francs each 
person, when raor* than one. 

Art. In the salle-d-manger of all 
the hotels in the neighbourhood of 
the Righi, are to be seen the usual 
mountain accompaniments, con- 
sisting of long ash poles, pointed 
with iron ; walking-sticks, with a 
chamois horn at the top, and an 
iron spike, about four inches long, 
at the bottom ; a great variety of 
flasks, capable of holding from a 
quart to half a pint, besides knap- 
sacks and other small gear, too 
numerous to mention. Guides, 
too, may be hired in abundance ; 
but it is not until one arrives at 
Art, opposite the Black Eagle, that 
an opinion can be formed of their 
numbers, sizes, ages, and importu- 
nities. There are boys from eight 
years old to men threescore and 
ten ; but, except to carry your 
knapsack in mounting the Righi, 
they are perfectly useless, to say 
nothing of the expense. Some 
travellers hire a horse each and a 
guide, making the expense for 
going up the Righi eighteen francs ; 
should you be unable to walk, and 
must have a horse (ladies, of course, 
always ought to ride up, but walk 
doirnij, recollect that a man is 
always sent to lead the horse and 
bring it back, whose expenses (with 
the exception of the drink-geld) is 
included in the nine francs ; there- 
fore, a guide to guide the man 
'■loats" guiding your horse, cannot 
be necessary. If, instead of giving 
nine francs for a guide, you were 
to give one franc for a mountain- 
staff, you would find it more 
serviceable than fifty guides 



f Coghlan's Guides always excepted) ; 
and if you gave a boy another 
franc or two to go up before you 
(the sooner the better), to bespeak 
a bed, you would be right again. 

Starting from Art, take the high 
road to the ruins of Goldau, oppo- 
site the inn (the White Horse), 
turn to the right through some 
fields, follow the path for three 
hours, and you will find yourself on 
the summit of the celebrated Mount 
Righi; and if you cannot follow a 
broad path (the onlj'^ one) up a hill 
without a guide, all I can say is, 
that I am very sorry for you. 

The dreadful calamity which 
befel the village of Goldau has ren- 
dered this a fearfully interesting 
part of Switzerland. This valley, 
which lies between the lakes of 
Lowertz and Zug on the east and 
west, and the RuflSberg or Ross- 
berg, and Rigiberg or Righi, on the 
north and south, was interspersed 
with smiling villages, inhabited by 
an industrious population, until 
the fatal 2d of September, 1806, 
when the Gnipenspitz, a part of 
the Rossberg, descended and crushed 
under its ruins both habitations 
and inhabitants. Such was the 
suddenness of this catastrophe, that 
out of a party of eleven persons 
from Berne, who were walking from 
Art towards Goldau, in order to 
ascend the Righi, seven who were 
a little in advance perished, while 
the others escaped unhurt. Five 
minutes were sufficient to destroy 
the five villages of Goldau, Rothen, 
Busingen, Huzloch, and Lowertz; 
the four former totally, and nearly 
three fourths of the last. The 
waters of the lake of Lowertz sus- 
tained so violent a shock that they 
overflowed the village of Seven, 
situated at its northern extremity, 
and caused considerable damage. 
457 individuals perished on this 
occasion, fourteen were severely 
wounded, and the survivors reduced 
to beggary. From Lowertz a path 



SWITZBRLAND.— ROUTE 46. RIGHI MOUNTAIN. 



257 



of five leagues conducts to the sum- 
mit of the Righi. The high road 
subsequently passes among huge 
fragments of rock, which, to a great 
distance, mark the scene of desola- 
tion. The present Goldau consists 
of little more than a new hotel (the 
White Horse), built on the spot 
where the ascent of the Righi 
commences, and a new church. 
Here the tourist has to pay toll 
for the horses employed in the ex- 
cursion- 
Having provided yourself with a 
staff and a flask of weak brandy 
and water, start not later than two 
o'clock, or the sun will be down 
before you get up. If there should 
be a large party, the contents of 
the flask may be brandy or kirsch- 
wasser; and if one of the number 
is a member of the temperance 
society, let him take charge of it. 
Mixing a little of it at the running 
streams as it may be required ; do not 
forget to provide a portable patent 
leather cup; walk slowly, and do 
not try to keep up with the horses ; 
my attempting to do so, and having 
the brandy in my own keeping, 
nearly gave me a surfeit of the as- 
cending system. Having stated the 
cheapest and the best way to get up 
to the top, I again repeat, that if 
you wish to lie down upon anything 
soft when you get there, it will be 
necessary to send somebody up be- 
fore you, or go up very early your- 
self ; but, arrive when you will, in 
one part of the building or other, 
the tables, chairs, and the floor will 
be at your service. I said lie down, [ 
because sleeping is quite out of the I 
question. The rendezvous, or Righi | 
inn, as it is called, contains three j 
floors, the salle a manger, guide's I 
room, and kitchen, occupy the cen- j 
tre; the bed -rooms, or cabins, are I 
over and under; making up about , 
sixty beds, and sometimes there are \ 
about 200 people there. The lucky ; 
rogues, who by good management , 
(I am candid to confess I was not 



amongst the number) secured a bed 
and retired below, had. the delight 
of forty or fifty pairs of thick shoes 
dancing over their heads, and those 
who departed to the upper regions 
were well situated to hear every 
sound of the horn and tambourine; 
but perhaps you might console 
yourself with the expectation that 
those who were tripping it on the 
heavy fantastic toe, after four hours' 
ascending in the broiling sun, would 
seek a little rest for themselves. 
Vain are your hopes, if you calcu- 
late upon any such good luck! It 
is true that fatigue overcomes both 
dancers and musicians; each seeks 
at length his pillow fi e. a chair); 
then comes the arranging, the alter- 
ing, the turning, the grumbling, 
the tumbling, till each, exhausted 
in search of rest, flings himself in 
despair on the floor; the lights are 
cautiously extinguished, and the 
attendants retire. Here, then, is 
some prospect of at least three 
hours' repose ; everything is quiet 
for not three hours, but half an 
hour, or perhaps less, when some 
unfortunate youth, as thin as 
Shakspeare's apothecary (a wooden 
bed does not agree with thin peo- 
ple), starting up, swears the sun is 
rising, and, in his eagerness to get 
out, tumbles over chairs, tables, 
legs, and bodies, who immediately 
arise to see— not the sun - but the 
moon. Disappointment, sore sides, 
and a dread of losing what they 
toiled so hard to see, prevents any 
future repose to the inhabitants of 
Mont Righi. The confusion of 
tongues, in almost every living 
language, baffles all description. 
With the exception of sleep, the 
accommodations are good; and con- 
sidering that everything for the use 
of the visitors must be brought 
from the valley, the charges are 
reasonable. One hundred persons 
sat down to an excellent supper, the 
charge for which was 3 francs 
without wine; breakfast, 1^ franc ; 



HOTTTE 46. — RIGHI MOUNTAIN. PART IV. 



beds I cannot say the price from 
experience, but I believe the charge 
is 2 francs each person, which in- 
cludes the privilege of flea hunting : 
the sport I understood was capital 
in that way. There is also a very 
good inn at the Staffel, half a league 
lower than the Culm. It may here 
be necessary to observe that the 
horn is sounded half an hour before 
sunrise, and that those who may 
envelope themselves in blankets or 
counterpanes to go out and see 
it, are expected to pay for the 
washing. 

In addition to the route from 
Art, or rather Goldau, there are 
seven others, three only of which 
are practicable for horses; the 
shortest will occupy three hours, 
and the longest, from Gersau, four 
hours and a half. 

The object of visiting the Eighi 
being to witness the effects of the 
rising and setting of the sun on the 
extensive range of mountains, lakes, 
valleys, and plains in the centre of 
which it is placed, tourists must 
take their measures accordingly. 
Those who lodge at the Culm can 
reach the highest point in a few 
moments, where there is a sort of 
wooden stage, or open observatory, 
and a large cross, distinguishable, 
with a good telescope, from Zurich. 
Those who lodge at the Staffel 
should be ready to ascend from it 
three quarters, or at least half an 
hour before sunrise. They should 
also be provided with Keller's 
'Panorama of theRighi,'on which 
the disposition of the surrounding 
objects is so accurately drawn as to 
enable the spectator to determine 
them with facility. These may be 
briefly stated to include a vast 
circuit of level and mountainous 
country, from the Black Forest, in 
Germany (including the heights 
above the valley of the Rhine, and 
those above the Danube, in Suacia), 
through all the northern and central 
cantons of Switzerland, as far as 



Jura, the Vosges in France, and 
Alsace. Within this circuit is in- 
cluded a number of lakes, the chief 
of which are those of the four Forest 
Cantons, Zug and Lowertz in the 
vicinity, Avith those of Sarnen, 
Sempach, Baldegg, or Heidegg, and 
Hallwyl. The others are either 
inconsiderable, or very partially or 
indistinctly seen. Some have fan- 
cied they had obtained a glimpse 
of the Lake of Constance : but ac- 
curate investigation has proved 
that it is merely the mist which 
usually broods over the lake that 
is distinguishable from the Eighi. 
The castle of Tettnang, situated 
upon a mountain two leagues more 
distant, and that of Waldburg, 
distant five leagues, are, however, 
visible. Among the mountains, 
those most interesting or conspic- 
uous are the entire range of the 
Bernese Oberland, the Sentis, the 
Gliirnish, all the lofty peaks of the 
Forest Cantons, and in particular 
those which environ the lake, such 
as the Pilatus, the two Mythen, 
the Haggen, &c. A complete view 
is also included of the unfortunate 
vaUey of Goldau, and the fatal 
Rossberg above it. The towns of 
Lucerne, Schwytz, Stantz, Zug, 
Art, Kussnacht, and Immensee, &c.', 
are, more or less, distinctly visiblei- 
The foreground, consisting of the 
various undulations and projections 
of the Righi, complete the picture. 

Mr Cooper thus describes the 
effect of the first view from this 
celebrated mountain : — " For my^ 
self I can fairly say, that, the oc- 
casion of a total eclipse of the sun 
excepted, I never felt so deep a 
sentiment of admiration and awe 
as at that exquisite moment. So 
greatly did reality exceed the pic^ 
tures we had formed, that the sur- 
prise was as complete as if nothing 
had been expected. The first effect 
was really bewildering, leaving 
behind it a vague sensation that 
the eye had strangely assembled 



SWITZERLAND. — ROUTE 46. RIGHI. PANORAMA. 



269 



the rarest elements of scenery, 
which were floating before it, with- 
out order, in pure wantonness. 
To this feeling the indefinite form 
of the lake of Lucerne greatly con- 
tributed, for it stretches out its 
numerous arms in so many diiFerent 
directions, as at first to appear like 
water in the unreal forms of the 
fancy. Volumes of mist were 
rolling swiftly along it, at the 
height of about two thousand feet 
above its surface, and of as many 
below ourselves, allowing us to 
look through the openings in a way 
to aid the illusion." 

Its name is supposed to have 
been derived from the Latin Mons 
Regius, " Koyal Moimtain ;" or, 
poetically, Retina Montium, " Queen 
of Mountains." Towering above 
the lake of the Four Forest Cantons, 
and having two others in its vici- 
nity, it forms a sort of elevated 
peninsula from eight to ten leagues 
in circumference at the base, which 
is studded with above ten villages. 
A number of chalets are also dis- 
persed about its sides. Its aspect 
presents a pleasing interchange of 
verdant lawns and dark pine forests, 
while the nature of its soil and 
formation afibrd abundant matter 
of research to the botanist and 
geologist. The Eighi does not 
reach the regions of perpetual 
snow. The inn near the Hospice 
affords accommodation to invalids, 
for whom the milk diet, called 
smolken, is prescribed. 

The following places may be 
visited on ascending or descending 
the mountain : — 

The Hospice — The Chapel of 
Maria Zum Schnee, or " Chapel of 
our Lady of the Snows," which is 
situated in the little valley of 
Imsand, was founded in 1689 by 
Sebastian Zay of Art, but rebuilt 
on a larger scale in 1719. This is 
at all times a favourite resort of 
pilgrims, and is full of ex-vetos. 
The Hospice, which is opposite to 



this chapel, has a communication 
with it by a passage extending 
from its upper story across the 
road. Here constantly reside three 
Capuchin friars and a lay-brother. 
One of these has in latter years 
been employed upon a stiU un- 
finished model of the place. In 
addition to the Sennenkilbe, or 
" Shepherd's Festival," celebrated 
here on the 22nd of July, being St 
Magdalen's day, the birth-day of 
the Virgin Mary, the 8th of Sep- 
tember, attracts hither an immense 
concourse of people. A few 
minutes' ascent above the Hospice 
is a rock bearing a tablet, dedi- 
cated to the memory of the late 
Ernest U, Duke of Saxe-Gotha. 

TTie Bruderhalm. — On the oppo- 
site side of the valley is a cavern, 
containing in some seasons stalac- 
tites. The access is somewhat 
difficult. This cave, which is 
caUed the Bruderbalm, or " Bro- 
thers' Grotto," extends very far 
into the mountain. 

The Kessisbodenloch. — On ascend- 
ing from the Staffel towards the 
Culm, a pit is passed at a few paces 
from the road, on the left, which 
is called the Kessisbodenloch. It 
resembles a well, and is very deep. 
Its orifice corresponds with another 
observable on the northern side of 
the mountain, through which stones 
dropped from above will be found 
to issue. 

The Kaltenhad, or Schwesiemhom. 
— The Kaltenbad, or " Cold Baths," 
is one of the most remarkable 
places on the Eighi. A descent of 
three quarters of a league conducts 
to it from the Staffel. The situa- 
tion of these baths is as romantic 
as the tradition connected with 
them. The water by which they 
are supplied issues through the 
crevice of a rock, and is excessively 
cold. During the reign of the 
Emperor Albert, three sisters were, 
according to the legend, obliged to 
flee into these deserts, in order to 



260 



EOUTE 46. — RIGHI. PART IV. 



escape the persecution of the 
Austrian bailiffs, who then domi- 
neered in this part of Switzerland 
and the refugees inhabited this 
spot until their death. In an ad- 
joining church is a curious Latin 
document, recording the history of 
the three sisters, and sundry mira- 
cles. The water is conveyed in 
wooden tubes to the baths, which 
are much frequented, being con- 
sidered efficacious against inter- 
mitting fevers, colics, and rheuma- 
tism. A festival is held here an- 
nually by the shepherds, on the 
10 th August, in honour of their 
patron, St Laurence. 

Descent from the Righu 

As soon as the sun is up, the 
visitors commence going down ; 
and it is not a little curious to see 
the various groups taking different 
directions; those who have ascended 
from Art, will, of course, descend 
either by Kilssnacht or Weggis : 
the latter is the shortest, the best, 
and presents an entirely new pros- 
pect to that obtained in ascending : 
whereas the descent to Kiissnacht 
is only partially so ; besides those 
who intend going to Lucerne by 
the lake, will be sure to find boats 
at Weggis ; indeed, to those who 
don't care to visit the chapel of 
William Tell, for there are many 
in this country, I would strongly 
recommend the Weggis path. 
There is a very comfortable inn, 
the Lion d' Or, at the door of which 
the boats are lying. Here persons 
may breakfast after their descent, 
but many breakfast on the top of 
the mountain. The path down to 
Weggis lies through an assemblage 
of rocks forming a natural arch ; 
it also leads past a small chapel, 
full of ex-vetos. The old man who 
attends the chapel some years ago 
fell off the rocks, by which he was 
made a cripple ; he keeps a " leetle" 
drop in the bottle, for the accommo- 
dation of those who may require it. 



Weggis, which is about the same 
distance from Lucerne by water as 
Kiissnacht, is divided into two 
parts, the Upper and Lower. In 
1795 great part of it was destroyed 
by a torrent of mud, which de- 
scended from the Eighi. Near 
Lower Weggis was formerly the 
castle of Burg am See, the seat of 
one of the first families in ancient 
Lucerne, or rather throughout 
Switzerland. Their original name, 
Absee, was exchanged for that of 
Hertenstein, meaning "hard rock," 
which the castle bore from its 
situation just above the lake. 

Kiissnacht is a large town of the 
canton of Schwytz, on the borders 
of the gulf of a lake, containing 
2,200 inhabitants. On a hill not 
far distant from Kiissnacht, are 
seen the ruins of a castle in which 
the bailiff Gessler intended to con- 
fine William Tell. The hero sprung 
out of the boat on the rock to which 
he gave his name, and waited for 
the tyrant in the " Hollow Way," 
where he slew him with an arrow ; 
in commemoration of which event 
a chapel was erected on the very 
spot in 1388. On the 21st of Janu- 
ary, 1828, Kiissnacht was the 
theatre of a grand spectacle, re- 
presenting the historj- of Tell and 
Gessler. 

The distance fron) ^iissnacht to 
Lucerne, by the lakei, is three 
leagues. After descending the 
lake of Kiissnacht some distance 
beyond the opposite villages of 
Greppin and Merlischachan, the 
imaginary limit between the can- 
tons Lucerne and Schwytz is 
crossed. The village of Meggin, 
situated on the right, near the 
shore, was the original domain of 
the noble family of the same 
name, vassals of the dukes of 
Austria and bailiffs of Rothenburg, 
under their government. The 
church of this village is more 
than three centuries old. Beyond 
Meggen, situated on the right 



SWITZERLAND. — ROUTE 46. LUCERNE. 



261 



shore, are the ruins of the castle of 
" New" Habsburg, a favourite 
abode of the Emperor Eudolph I, 
one of that family. It fell, after a 
siege of ten days, in 1352, during 
the general demolition of the cas- 
tles of the nobles. Near the Meg- 
genhorn are four islets, on one of 
which is a chapel, dedicated to St 
Nicholas, the patron of boatmen 
and fishers ; on another a cross. 
The largest of the islets, called 
the Alt-Stadt, served formerly as a 
depository for merchandize. Here 
the Abbe Eaynal erected, in 1783, 
a little obelisk to the memory of 
the three Tells, which he had 
wished to erect in Grutli. It was 
destroyed by lightning in 1795. 
At the other extremity of the Lake 
of Kiissnacht, opposite to the Meg- 
genhorn, is the promontory of 
Tanzenberg, on an advanced pro- 
jection of which is the Zinnen, once 
a custom-house for the merchandize 
transported from the St Gothard. 
This spot forms a very picturesque 
point of view. Further on is the 
site of the former castle of War- 
tenflue, and on the opposite shore 
the villa of Stutz. Beyond the site 
of Wartenflue are some remains of 
the old tower of Seeburg, built in 
the reign of the Emperor Albert 
of Austria, to preserve the ap- 
proaches of the city from hostile 
attacks. Beyond Stutz, on the 
opposite shore, is the promontory 
of Tripschen. On approaching 
Lucerne the view is further embel- 
lished by the agreeable uplands, 
called the Halden, on the right, and 
those of the Mons and Bireck on 
the left ; above which, in the 
distance, rises the mountain Pila- 
tus. The aspect of the town itself 
at the extremity of the lake is very 
picturesque. 

LUCERKE. 

Hotels, The Swiss,- the want of 
sufficient accommodation for the 
numerous travellers who visit Lu- 



cerne during the summer suggested, 
no doubt, to the Messrs Segesser 
the probable success which would 
attend the erection of one of those 
modern palaces commonly called 
hotels, which have been erected in 
various parts of the continent within 
these last ten years. The situation 
selected for the Schwytzer Hof is the 
best in Lucerne ; the front commands 
a fine view of the lake, having the 
Righi on the left, and the Pilatus on 
the right ; the intermediate dis- 
tances being filled up by that 
grand and beautiful scenery for 
which the lake of Lucerne is so 
celebrated. The new hotel contains 
upwards of a hundred bed-rooms, 
numerous private saloons, a large 
salle-a-manger, reading and bath 
room; around the court-yard are 
extensive coach-houses and sta- 
bling; a well-arranged garden com- 
pletes the luxury of this splendid 
establishment. 

The Swan, very good, commanding 
an extensive view of the lake of 
Lucerne. Balance, an old estab- 
lished, second-rate, and moderate. 

The town of Lucerne, containing 
a population of 8,150 inhabitants, 
is situated at the western extremity 
of the lake of the four forest can- 
tons, at the foot of a gentle acclivity 
called the Musegg, and at the 
junction of the river Reuss with the 
lake. At a short distance rise the 
mountains Eighi and Pilatus, at 
opposite sides of the water. This 
river divides into two unequal 
parts— the Grosse Stadt, on the 
north, extending also along the 
lake ; and the Kleine Stadt, on the 
south. The former was in ancient 
times completely surrounded with 
water. A wall, flanked with nu- 
merous towers, which passes along 
the height of the Musegg, and en- 
closes that part of the Great Town 
not protected by the water, adds to 
the picturesque appearance of Lu- 
cerne. This wall was built be- 
tween the years 1360 and 1385. 



262 



ROUTE 46.— LUCERNE. PAET IV. 



The Little Town is intersected by 
a canal. The appearance of most 
of the houses is antiquated, but 
there are some built in the modern 
style. 

The wall which encloses the city 
on the north is furnished with 
towers, one whereof is surmounted 
with an armed figure. Close to 
the government house is also an 
old tower, built about 1350, on part 
of the ruins of the ancient town, 
and which belonged to the fortifi- 
cations. It was probably intended 
for giving warning of hostile ap- 
proaches from the lake. A rude 
figure of a giant, in fresco, now fast 
mouldering away, is painted upon 
it, to which popular traditions have 
attached great celebrity. A long 
inscription in old German verse, 
records the discovery of the giant's 
bones near the village of Keiden. 

The bridges of Lucerne are the 
most remarkable within its pre- 
cincts. Mill bridge, which is 300 feet 
in length, was constructed in 1403, 
and is intended for pedestrians 
alone. The interior of the roof 
wherewith it is covered, is divided 
by a great number of partitions, 
which contain a succession of thirty- 
six pictures with double faces, re- 
presenting the " Dance of Death. " 
There are also other subjects; and 
the difierent pieces, the gifts of 
difierent individuals, have the 
names of the donors severally in- 
scribed upon them. Eeuss bridge 
is the only uncovered bridge in the 
town ; its length is 150 feet, and 
breadth twenty- six feet. Chapel 
bridge, which was built in 1303, is 
1,000 feet long, and traverses thelake 
at its junction with the Reuss. It is 
decorated with 154 pictures, whereof 
seventy seven represents the most 
remarkable epochs of the heroic 
times of Switzerland; the remain- 
ing seventy -seven, commencing at 
the chapel, are subjects taken from 
the histories of the two patrons of 
the town, St Leger and St Maurice. 



Close to this bridge and nearly at 
its middle point, is the Wasser- 
thurm ( Tour de VEau), or Water 
Tower, rising out of the lake. This 
tower, which has been erroneously 
ascribed to the Romans, was more 
probably used as a lighthouse at an 
early period, but not so remote as 
theirs. It is supposed to have fur- 
nished Lucerne with its name, as 
derivable from Lucerna, signifying 
in Latin " lantern. " The last of the 
bridges, Court bridge, is the longest 
bridge in Switzerland, extending 
1,380 feet, and serves to connect the 
cathedral with the town. Like the 
others, it is covered and decorated 
with pictures painted on wood, and 
in number 238. The one half, 
viewed in walking along the bridge 
towards the cathedral, consists of 
subjects taken from the New, the 
remaining half are from the Old 
Testament. These paintings have 
been furnished at different periods, 
commencing from 1564 ; a new 
bridge is talked of to replace this 
relic of antiquity. 

Lucerne contains eight churches 
besides the cathedral, a Jesuit's; 
coUege, a convent, and a great 
number of schools, a gymnase, four 
hospitals, a house of correction, 
with the usual public buildings in 
the shape of a town hall, mint, 
custom house, an arsenal, four pub- 
lic libraries, none of which are 
likely to be interesting to travellers; 
the principal lion being the Lion of 
Thorwaldsen. 

This most remarkable object is 
in the immediate vicinity of the 
town, in the garden of Colonel Pfef- 
fer, to commemorate the massacre 
of the Swiss Guards of Louis XVl 
on the 10th of August, 1792. The 
model was designed by the cele- 
brated sculptor Thorwalsden The 
monument represents a colossal 
lion dying amidst weapons and 
armorial bearings; the right paw 
resting upon an escutcheon bearing 
the arms of France, which he is no 



SWITZERLAND. ROUTE 46. LUCERNE. 



263 



longer capable of defending. It is 
hewn out of the living rock, which 
forms a grotto around it forty-four 
feet long, and twenty six high. 
The Hon itself is twenty-eight feet 
and a half long, by eighteen high. 
The dying lion partly covers with 
his body a buckler, on which the 
fieur de lis is conspicuous, which he 
has no further power to defend; 
the lance which pierced his side 
remains, part of which is broken; 
the face expresses the grief of noble 
feelings and tranquil courage ; his 
paw is extended as if to defend 
itself agamst a fresh attack; his 
half-shut eyes seem weeping for 
the fate of France, and as about to 
be closed for ever. The sheet of water 
in front adds to the effect. The 
person who has the charge of the 
garden and monument relates, in 
l^ench, the dimensions from the 
head to the tail, and from the tail 
to the snout, reports himself a sur- 
vivor. 

Opposite to the monument is a 
rustic lodge, wherein are sold a 
variety of Swigs views and cos- 
tumes, models and prints of theUon, 
&;c. ; the proprietor, Dr De Liebe- 
nau Pfyffer, will be found an intelli- 
gent, respectable man. A small 
chapel erected near the spot, as a 
further memorial of the Swiss 
Guards, contains a privileged altar. 
The covering is of crimson silk, 
embroidered by the hands of the 
dauphiness of France, by whom it 
was presented. The device is a 
lamb reposing upon the Gospel in 
sleep. The following inscription 
records the donation: "Ouvrage 
de S. A. R. Madame la Daupine 
Maria Th^rese de France, an 1825. 
Donne a la ChapeUe du Monument 
du 10 Aout 1 792, a Lucerne. " The 
next lion is not a lion, but a plan 
in relief of part of Switzerland 
(twenty-two feet long by thirteen 
wide) ; and it is extraordinary, but 
true, that the two latest travellers 
who have favoured the world with 



an account of their marchings and 
counter -marchings, are both erro- 
neous respecting this celebrated 
relief One says, " Having all Swit- 
zerland in a room, I was enabled to 
satisfy myself that my own dis^ 
covery was really the Titlis." As 
he was so keen at discovery, I 
wonder he could not discover that 
the whole of Switzerland comprises 
twenty-two cantons, while this plan 
comprises only five and parts of 
six more! The other authority 
says : " It is composed of 136 square 
pieces, which may be separated, 
and each viewed distinctly by 
itself" To view this plan, one 
Swiss franc is charged each person ; 
the relief plan in the Wasserkerch 
at Zurich, though not on quite so 
large a scale, is equally distinct, 
with the advantage of seeing it for 
nothing. In the arsenal are several 
a,ntiquities, on which the inhabitants 
set much value. 

An English clergyman performs 
divine service in Lucerne every 
Sunday morning at eleven o'clock. 

Mr Meyer, bookseller, opposite 
the post office, keeps an assortment 
of maps, views, and guide books. 

A Steamer runs between Lucerne 
and Fluelen, (the furthest ex- 
tremity of the lake), touching at 
various points en route once a day, 
leaving Lucerne at seven in the 
morning, and returning about half- 
past seven in the evening. Fares 
to Brunnen: first place, 2 francs; 
second place. 85 rap. ToGersaw: 
first place, 1 franc 50 rap; second 
place 75 rap. To Fluelen: first 
place, 2 francs 80 rap; second place, 
1 franc 20 rap. 

The row-boats cost for each pas- 
senger to Fluelen, with three row- 
ers, 4 fr., occupying, including a 
stoppage to diniB, six and a half to 
seven hours. 

Diligences daily from Lucerne. 
Fares in Swiss francs and raps. 

Basle, seven in the morning. 
Coupe, 11 fr.; iflfeeriour, 9 fr. MaUe- 



264 



ROUTE 46.' PILItUS IfGUNTAIN. part IV. 



post (five places)i';ai 'flihe in the 
evening. Same fares. 

Berne, six morning; and malle- 
post at half-past eight evening, 8 fr. 

Zurich, nine morning. 4fr. 40 
rap. 

Letters daily to England, at nine 
in the evening. 

Travellers who intend proceeding 
over the Grimselto Interlachen, or over 
the St Gothard to the Lakes Maygiore 
or Como, should discharge their vetteri- 
no at Lucerne, paying two days' return 
to Schaffhausen, and one to Zurich. 

The Pilatus. — The mountain Pi- 
latus, Ebel says, was a place of fa- 
shionable resort before the Eighi 
came into notice : it is situated to 
the south of Lucerne, nearly oppo- 
site to that mountain, and separat- 
ed from it by the lake. The name 
has been by some derived from the 
Latin pileatus, because it is gene- 
rally covered with a little cloud in 
fine weather ; by others from Pon- 
tius Pilate, who is superstitiously 
supposed to have drowned himself 
in a small lake on the Briindlinen, 
or Briindlen Alp. 

The Pilatus can be ascended by 
six different paths, four from the 
northern and two from the southern 
sides. The least fatiguing of these 
commences at Alpnacht. That 
leading from Lucerne is practicable 
for a horse as far as the chapel of 
Eigenthal, a distance of two hours 
and a half, which is reached after 
passing through Kriens and Her- 
gottswald. At the latter place are 
a handsome church and hermit's 
cell, a favourite resort of pilgrims, 
and below it the castle of Schauen- 
see. The Eigenthall is an agreeable 
valley, where, in the place called 
New Alp, some ruins of the ancient 
castle and village are still visible. 
Here many of the Lucernese reside 
in summer, for the sake of the milk 
diet called molken. On the Briind- 
len Alp is the famous, though di- 
minutive, Pilater sea. 

The violent storms which some- 



times occur in the neighbourhood 
of this lake! bursting with violence 
over the town of Lucerne, were 
supposed to have been the ebulli- 
tions of the angry spirit of Pontius 
Pilate, issuing from the lake when 
any person had the hardihood to 
disturb its waters. Such was the 
credence bestowed upon this legend 
in the fourteenth century, that it 
was expressly prohibited by the 
government to approach the laket 
In 1387 a party of ecclesiastic^ 
were imprisoned for attempting the 
ascent; and it was only by special 
permission that, in the course of 
time, some strangers of distinction 
were allowed to undertake the ex- 
cursion. A curate of Lucerne at 
length contributed much to dispel 
these errors, by practically exor- 
cising the lake, into which he caused 
stones to be thrown, and people to 
enter for the purpose of fording 
it where it was shallow ; thus 
proving that it was neither bottom- 
less nor ready to vomit flames on 
being disturbed. 

In the vicinity of the Briindlen 
Alp are two very interesting grot- 
toes. The one is called the Domi- 
nicloch, from a mass of whitish 
stone at the entrance, resembling a 
human figure placed at a table, by 
some supposed to be nothing more 
than an aggregation of stalactites. 
At length, a chamois hunter under- 
took the investigation in 1814. He 
found the pretended statue to be a 
rock full of crevices, beside which 
was another resembling a table. 
The other grotto is grotesquely 
called the Mondmilchloch, or "Grot- 
to of Moon -milk." ThisMondmilch- 
loch separates into two branches, 
and emits a very cold stream, which 
occasions in the interior of the ca- 
vern a remarkable whistling sound. 
This grotto derives its name froni 
a mineral agaric called mondmilch, 
which abounds both in it and the 
other grotto. On the Briindlen Alp 
there is a remarkable echo. 



SWITZERLAND ROUTE 47-48. LUCERNE TO INTERLACHEN. 265 



On the right of the BrLindlen 
Alp is the Ober Alp, the best pas- 
ture of the Pilatus ; on the left that 
of Castelen. The seven penks of 
the mountain which rise above tlie 
Briindlen Alp are the Esel, Ober- 
haupt, Band, Tomlishorn, Gems- 
mattlin, Widderfeld, and Knapp- 
stein. The Esel is diJ0B.cult and 
dangerous of ascent, but commands 
a view more extensive than that 
from the Righi Culm. Ober Alp 
and Widderfeld, but the path is very- 
fatiguing and. dangerous ; Tomlis- 
horn can be reached from this peak. 
The Widderfeld, or Widderhorn, is 
the wildest part of the mountain, 
and is approached from the Briind- 
len by several paths, one of which 
passes the Mondmilchloch, and a 
place named Bubenhiitte. The 
Knappstein, which rises above the 
Widderfeld, is so called from the 
knappstein, or "rocking-stone," on 
its summit, which, after being for- 
tuitously detached from the great 
mass of rock, has maintained its 
balance, and can be moved and 
poised on its pivot without danger. 

ROUTE 47. 

LUCERNE TO BERNE AND THUN, BT 
THE VALLEY OF ENTLEBUCH. 

Distance 18 leagues — 54Eng. miles. 



To Entlebach . 


. 6 leagues 


*''— Escholzmatt 


• 3 


— Langnau 


. 3 „ 


— Signau 


. 1 » 


— Berne or Thun . 


• 5 „ 



Voituriers will take a day an4 a 
half, starting in the afternoon, to 
reach Entlebuch to sleep ; the re- 
mainder of the journey may, by 
starting early, be performed to en- 
able the traveller to reach Berne in 
time for the table d'hote, at five 
o'clock. About ten miles from Lu- 
cerne commences the valley of 

Entlebuch, situated in the canton 
of Lucerne. From the Tanuhorn to 
Wertenstein, it is ten or eleven 
leagues long, and from the Glau- 
benstook to the most elevated point 



; of the passage of the Enti, eight 

: leagues in breadth. 

! Entlebuch {Hotel du Port, good 

I and reasonable) is situated at the 

confluence of the Entle and of the 

Emme, on the slope of the Bra- 

megg. The situation is most lonely ; 

the " roar" is not remarkably loud. 

Trout fishing in the neighbourhood, 

and wrestling by the natives The 

cemeteries are remarkable for the 

profusion of gilt crosses, which, 

glistening in the sun, has a pretty 

effect. 

Escholzmatt, also a village in the 
valley of Entlebuch, but one league 
beyond, you enter the canton of 
Berne. At the barrier a carriage 
with a pair of horses will cost 
4|batz, Between this place and 
Langnau a new road was making 
in the summer of 1844 ; this part 
of the road is very pretty. 

Lavgnau. — Inns. Cerfe, the best. 
This village is considered, from the 
pure elasticity of the air, to be 
beneficial in chronic complaints. It 
is pleasantly situated in the Em- 
menthal valley. The village of 
Langnau lies a little to the right 
out of the main road. Haifa mile 
heyond this the vett usually stops 
at a cheese-house, Avhere the pro- 
cess of converting the milk col- 
lected on the neighbouring moun- 
tains into cheese, some of which 
weigh upwards of 100 lbs , is carried 
on ; very rarely indeed is the cheese 
made on the mountains 

Signau.—AhoMt half a league 
beyond this village the road on the 
left leads to Thun ; distance four 
leagues and a half. The same dis- 
tance to Berne, described at 
Page 289. 

ROUTE 48. 

TO INTERLACHEN, BT FLUELEN ST 
GOTHARD, THE GRIMSEL PASS, AND 
MEYRINGEN. 

Time occupied, three days. 
The Lake of Lmerney called also 

N 



266 



ROUTE 48. — LUCERNE TO INTERLACHEN, PART IV. 



the Lake of the Four Cantons, 
exhibits greater variety and more 
picturesque scenery than any other 
of the Swiss lakes. It is seven 
leagues long, in a right line, and 
three wide about Kiisnacht ; but 
the shape is very irregular. The 
whole south side is bordered by 
high mountains ; but the north 
exhibits hills of no great height. 
The narrow gulf that exteads 
towards the west, is bordered on 
the N. and N. W. by Mount Pila- 
tus, which is a single mountain, 
rising boldly more than six thousand 
feet above the level of the lake ; 
and on the south by Mount Bur- 
genberg. Stanz Stadt, belonging 
to the canton of Underwald, is on 
this side ; and in this part the lake 
is deepest. Kiisnacht is on the 
point of the other gulf, which 
extends towards the east, and is 
wider than the former. All the 
country to the west of these gulfs, 
and part of it to the north of the 
latter, belongs to the canton of 
Lucerne ; but that which is to the 
S. and N. E. is dependent on the 
canton of Zug. All the mountains 
on the left shore of the lake belong 
to the canton of Underwald ; those 
on the right, partly to the canton 
of Uri, partly to that of Schwytz, 
but principally to the canton of 
Lucerne. 

The town of Lucerne forms a 
fine object at one extremity. 
Mount Pilatus and the Eighi are 
noble mountains : the first well 
known to naturalists for the variety 
of its plants and fossils ; the second 
peculiarly fitted to give a view over 
great part of Switzerland. At 
the foot of this once existed the 
smallest republic, and perhaps the 
most perfect democracy in Europe, 
that of Gersau. The inhabitants 
were about a thousand ; it was 
absolutely independent, and under 
the protection of the four cantons. 
The scenery of that part which is 
called the Lake of Uri is particu- 



larly sublime : it is narrow, and 
edged on both sides with the most 
wild and romantic rocks, with 
woods of beech and pine down to 
the very water's edge. 

But this fine lake is particularly 
interesting from having been the 
theatre on which the independence 
of Switzerland was originally plan- 
ned. Here is the chapel of Wil- 
liam Tell, on a rock jutting out 
into the lake under a hanging 
wood ; and the village of Brunnen, 
where the treaty of 1315 was 
signed between Uri, Schwytz, and 
Underwalden. Schwytz, the capi- 
tal of the canton, is but two miles 
from it. 

And hail the chapel! hail the platform 
wild! 
Where Tell directed the avenging dart, 
With well-strung arm that first preserve 
his child, 
Then winged the arrow to the tyrant's 
heart. 

The Emperor Albert, having tht 
ambitious design of conquerin| 
Switzerland, in order to make i 
patrimony of it for one of his 
younger sons, had by degrees 
succeeded in subduing the greatei 
part ; and, under false pretences 
had sent arbitrary baillies an( 
governors, who exercised mucl 
cruelty and oppression upon th« 
people. The worst of these wai 
Gessler, a rapacious and ferociou 
man, whose castl3 in Uri was { 
continued scene of barbarity an« 
plunder. Discontents had already 
taken place, and the people not onr 
murmured, but had meetings oi 
every fresh insult ; when in thi 
year 1307, Gessler, to prove hi 
power, and indulge his vanity 
erected his hat on a pole in th 
market place of Altorf, and in 
sisted on the people bowing to it a; 
they passed. William Tell refusec 
The tyrant, to revenge himsell 
ordered Tell's youngest son to b 
brought to the market place, anc 
tying him to a stake, placed a: 



SWITZEBLAND.— -ROUTE 48. LFCERNE TO INTERLACHEN. 



267 



apple upon his head, and desired 
the father to shoot at it with his 
crossbow. William Tell succeeded 
in hitting the apple ; but when the 
tyrant asked him the reason of 
his having another arrow con- 
cealed in his dress, he replied, 
" To have killed you, had I killed my 
son." The offended governor had 
TeU seized and bound, and placed 
in the same boat with himself, 
resolving to carry him across the 
lake to his own castle. A fright- 
ful storm (to which the Swiss lakes 
are liable) suddenly arose, and 
they were obliged to unchain the 
prisoner, who was celebrated for 
his skill as a mariner. He con- 
ducted them near a ridge of 
rocks, and vaulting from the boat, 
escaped. 

Meadow of GrutlL — Nearly oppo- 
site to Brunnen, and under the 
promontory of Wytenberg, or Wy- 
tenstein, is a solitary rock rising 
out of the water, which is called 
by the latter name, and formerly 
also the Weiber Morgengab, or 
"Ladies'Breakfast." A steep ascent 
from the place of debarkation leads 
to the celebrated spot where the 
three Tells, the early vindicators of 
the freedom of their country, used 
to hold their nocturnal meetings. 
Their real names were Werner 
Stauffacher, Erni An der Halden 
(otherwise called Arnold of Melch- 
thal), and Walter Eiirst. On the 
17th of November, 1307, each of 
them, accompanied by a band of 
ten men, selected from the cantons 
of Schwytz, Underwald, and Uri, 
repaired thither, and concluded the 
solemn compact which led to the 
expulsion of the Austrian zwing- 
herrn, or bailiffs. On the 23rd of 
June. 1313, the three cantons re- 
newed their alliance in the Meadow 
of Griitli, and it was again con- 
firmed for the last time, in 1713, by 
three hundred and sixty deputies. 
Three springs, over which a small 
cottage has been built, are revered 



as sacred, being supposed to mark 
the spot where the patriotic con- 
spirators assembled, and which are 
said to have first gushed from the 
earth at the moment in which 
they bound themselves by oath to 
attempt the deliverance of their 
country. Another small structure 
stands near this, and the little field 
is itself planted with fruit trees 
and covered with verdure. This 
site was first chosen by the Abbe 
Raynal for the memorial in honour 
of the three TeUs : which he sub- 
sequently erected on an island 
near Lucerne, having met with 
some impediment to his original 
design from the proprietor of the 
Meadow of Griitli. On the height . 
above may be seen the church of 
Seelisberg, a very picturesque ob- 
ject. 

The Tellensprung. — On the oppo- 
site shore is a level rock, whereon 
William Tell leaped from the boat 
in which the tyrant Gessler was 
conveying him as a prisoner to 
Kiisnacht ; while in the act of 
springing, he contrived to push 
back the boat with his foot into 
the midst of the waves, so as to 
prevent immediate pursuit. Before 
arriving at this spot the vOlage 
of Sissingen is seen, at the opening 
of the vaUey of the same name, and 
at the base of the Erohn Alps 
Eock, together with some traces of 
the calamity occasioned by a huge 
mass of rock, which, in the spring 
of 1801, fell from the heights above 
the village into the lake : the shock 
was so violent that the recoiling 
waters inundated the valley, and 
swept away a number of houses, 
mills, and other buildings, together 
with eleven persons. The effect 
of this concussion upon the lake 
was perceived even at Lucerne, and 
the waves penetrated into the vil- 
lages of Eliielen and Bauen. The 
Tellensprung, or " Tell's Leap," is 
distinguished by a little chapel 
with an open portico of two arches 



266 



ROUTE 48. — LtrCERNE TO INTERLACHEN, PART IV. 



the Lake of the Four Cantons, 
exhibits greater variety and more 
picturesque scenery than any other 
of the Swiss lakes. It is seven 
leagues long, in a right line, and 
three wide about Kiisnacht ; but 
the shape is very irregular. The 
whole south side is bordered by 
high mountains ; but the north 
exhibits hills of no great height. 
The narrow gulf that extends 
towards the west, is bordered on 
the N. and N. W. by Mount Pila- 
tus, which is a single mountain, 
rising boldly more than six thousand 
feet above the level of the lake ; 
and on the south by Mount Bur- 
genberg. Stanz Stadt, belonging 
to the canton of Under wald, is on 
this side ; and in this part the lake 
is deepest. Kiisnacht is on the 
point of the other gulf, which 
extends towards the east, and is 
wider than the former. All the 
country to the west of these gulfs, 
and part of it to the north of the 
latter, belongs to the canton of 
Lucerne ; but that which is to the 
S. and N. E. is dependent on the 
canton of Zug. All the mountains 
on the left shore of the lake belong 
to the canton of Underwald ; those 
on the right, partly to the canton 
of Uri, partly to that of Schwytz, 
but principally to the canton of 
Lucerne. 

The town of Lucerne forms a 
fine object at one extremity. 
Mount Pilatus and the Eighi are 
noble mountains : the first well 
known to naturalists for the variety 
of its plants and fossils ; the second 
peculiarly fitted to give a view over 
great part of Switzerland. At 
the foot of this once existed the 
smallest republic, and perhaps the 
most perfect democracy in Europe, 
that of Gersau. The inhabitants 
were about a thousand ; it was 
absolutely independent, and under 
the protection of the four cantons. 
The scenery of that part which is 
called the Lake of Uri is particu- 



larly sublime : it is narrow, and 
edged on both sides with the most 
wild and romantic rocks, with 
woods of beech and pine down to 
the very water's edge. 

But this fine lake is particularly 
interesting from having been the 
theatre on which the independence 
of Switzerland was originally plan- 
ned. Here is the chapel of Wil- 
liam Tell, on a rock jutting out 
into the lake under a hanging 
wood ; and the village of Brunnen, 
where the treaty of 1315 was 
signed between Uri, Schwytz, and 
Underwalden. Schwytz, the capi- 
tal of the canton, is but two miles 
from it. 

And hail the chapel! hail the platform 
wild! 
Where Tell directed the avenging dart, 
With well-strung arm that first preserv'd 
his child, 
Then winged the arrow to the tyrant's 
heart. 

The Emperor Albert, having the 
ambitious design of conquering 
Switzerland, in order to make a 
patrimony of it for one of his 
younger sons, had by degrees 
succeeded in subduing the greater 
part ; and, under false pretences, 
had sent arbitrary baillies and 
governors, who exercised much 
cruelty and oppression upon the 
people. The worst of these was 
Gessler, a rapacious and ferocious 
man, whose castl3 in Uri was a 
continued scene of barbarity and 
plunder. Discontents had already 
taken place, and the people not only 
murmured, but had meetings on 
every fresh insult ; when in the 
year 1307, Gessler, to prove his 
power, and indulge his vanity, 
erected his hat on a pole in the 
market place of Altorf, and in- 
sisted on the people bowing to it as 
they passed. William Tell refused. 
The tyrant, to revenge himself, 
ordered Tell's youngest son to be 
brought to the market place, and, 
tying him to a stake, placed an 



SWITZERLAND. — ROUTE 48. LUCERNE TO INTERLACHEN. 



267 



apple upon his head, and desired 
the father to shoot at it with his 
crosshow. William Tell succeeded 
in hitting the apple ; hut when the 
tyrant asked him the reason of 
his having another arrow con- 
cealed in his dress, he replied, 
" To have killed you, had I killed my 
son." The offended governor had 
Tell seized and bound, and placed 
in the same boat with himself, 
resolving to carry him across the 
lake to his own castle. A fright- 
ful storm (to which the Swiss lakes 
are liable) suddenly arose, and 
they were obhged to unchain the 
prisoner, who was celebrated for 
his skill as a mariner. He con- 
ducted them near a ridge of 
rocks, and vaulting from the boat, 
escaped. 

Meadow of Grutli. — Nearly oppo- 
site to Brunnen, and under the 
promontory of Wytenberg, or Wy- 
tenstein, is a solitary rock rising 
out of the water, which is called 
by the latter name, and formerly 
also the Weiber Morgengab, or 
"Ladies' Breakfast." A steep ascent 
from the place of debarkation leads 
to the celebrated spot where the 
three Tells, the early vindicators of 
the freedom of their country, used 
to hold their nocturnal meetings. 
Their real names were Werner 
Stauffacher, Erni An der Halden 
(otherwise called Arnold of Melch- 
thal), and Walter Fiirst. On the 
17th of November, 1307, each of 
them, accompanied by a band of 
ten men, selected from the cantons 
of Schwytz, Underwald, and Uri, 
repaired thither, and concluded the 
solemn compact which led to the 
expulsion of the Austrian zwing- 
herrn, or bailiffs. On the 23rd of 
June. 1313, the three cantons re- 
newed their alliance in the Meadow 
of Griitli, and it was again con- 
firmed for the last time, in 1713, by 
three hundred and sixty deputies. 
Three springs, over which a small 
cottage has been built, are revered 



as sacred, being supposed to mark 
the spot where the patriotic con- 
spirators assembled, and which are 
said to have first gushed from the 
earth at the moment in which 
they bound themselves by oath to 
attempt the deliverance of their 
country. Another small structure 
stands near this, and the little field 
is itself planted with fruit trees 
and covered with verdure. This 
site was first chosen by the Abbe 
Eaynal for the memorial in honour 
of the three Tells : which he sub- 
sequently erected on an island 
near Lucerne, having met with 
some impediment to his original 
design from the proprietor of the 
Meadow of Griitli. On the height . 
above may be seen the church of 
Seelisberg, a very picturesque ob- 
ject. 

The Tellensprung. — On the oppo- 
site shore is a level rock, whereon 
William Tell leaped from the boat 
in which the tyrant Gessler was 
conveying him as a prisoner to 
Kiisnacht ; while in the act of 
springing, he contrived to push 
back the boat with his foot into 
the midst of the waves, so as to 
prevent immediate pursuit. Before 
arriving at this spot the village 
of Sissingen is seen, at the opening 
of the valley of the same name, and 
at the base of the Frohn Alps 
Rock, together with some traces of 
the calamity occasioned by a huge 
mass of rock, which, in the spring 
of 1801, fell from the heights above 
the village into the lake : the shock 
was so violent that the recoiling 
waters inundated the valley, and 
swept away a number of houses, 
mills, and other buildings, together 
with eleven persons. The effect 
of this concussion upon the lake 
was perceived even at Lucerne, and 
the waves penetrated into the vil- 
lages of Eliielen and Bauen. The 
Tellensprung, or " Tell's Leap," is 
distinguished by a little chapel 
with an open portico of two arches 



268 



ROUTE 48. -LUCEKNE TO INTEKLACHEN. PART IV. 



in front, and decorated with a 
numbex' of rude frescos, represent- 
ing the principal personages and 
events of the period. There is 
also one of modern date, by Xavier 
Trinerr, of Biirglen. This fane 
was erected in 1388, by order of 
the landsgemeinde, or popular as- 
sembly of Uri, and a festival is 
annually celebrated upon the spot. 
This is one of the most dangerous 
places on the lake. 

The village of Fiiiekn, at the 
south-eastern ejctremity of the 
Lake of the Four Forest Cantons, 
or in particular of that of Uri, may 
be termed the port of Altorf. Its 
position is very commodious for 
the transit of merchandise between 
Italy and the north of Switzerland. 
The principal buildings are tlie 
custom house and the stores. The 
houses are chiefly inhabited by 
fishermen and boatmen. There 
are two hotels, /'Aiyle and the 
Croix Blanche. 

On landing at Fliielen, we in- 
tended to proceed to Altorf for the 
night (it is now possible to reach 
St Gothardto sleep the first night) ; 
but mine host of the Eagle, Master 
Henry Gisler, Avas very anxious 
that we should patronise his house. 
Standing, as it does, on the very 
edge of the lake, we could not 
resist, and having refreshed our- 
selves with tea on a sort of shed 
top, to get to which we were 
obliged to double up very small, 
the little man commenced the usual 
inquiries : " How far were we 
going ?" " How did we intend 
to travel?" (there were four in 
the party) ; " good horses," " intel- 
ligent coachman," " save one day's 
back hire by allowing him to sug- 
gest. " The last hint was a knock- 
down argument : twenty francs to 
be saved - /Kxt? ? we all anxiously 
inquired : "By taking my carriage 
and pair to Andermatt, where the 
carriagfi-horses can be converted 
into saddJ^'horses ; three days 



going to Meyringen and two back, 
making five days ; suppose," said 
mine host, " you take my carriage 
and horses to Andermatt, I charge 
you two days ;" (how civil !) "you 
must then hire horses to Meyrin^ 
gen two days, and two back, 
making six instead of five !" We 
could not get over his logic : and as 
there were two ladies, who of course 
would require horses the whole 
way, we found it necessary to make 
the bargain, I would recommend 
others similarly situated to follow 
tlie same plan : not that Mr Gisler 
favoured us, for it is the custom 
when you hire for three days, to 
pay but two return. At the Croix 
Blanche, or at Altorf, the same 
accommodation may be had. 

Mem. See that the little man 
does not charge more than the 
following prices in his bill ; he will 
if he can. 

Tea, 1 f. 5 sous ; bed, 1 f. 10 
sous ; breakfast, 1 f. 1 sous. 

The road from Fliielen to Altorf, 
distant a quarter of a league, passes 
through the opening of a valley, 
watered by the Reuss, which joins 
the lake between the former place 
and Seedorf. 

The town of Altorf, otherwise 
called Uri, still bears traces of the 
appalling calamities it experienced 
at the close of the last century. 
In April 1799 it was destroyed by 
a conflagration. In a month after 
the inhabitants had to endure a 
hostile visit from the French ; and 
subsequently, during the same- 
year, it was successively traversed 
or occupied by the Austrian s, by 
the French a second time, and by 
the Russians. It has been since 
rebuilt, in better style than before. 
The old tower of William Tell is 
said to have alone escaped the 
flames. It is built on the spot 
formerly occupied by the lime-tree 
under which the hero's son was 
placed. The circumstances are 
represented by rude paintings on the 



SWITZERLAND.— ROUTE 48» LUCERNE TO INTERLACEEN. 



269 



exterioT of the tower. There are 
four public fountains, two of which 
mark the spots where William Tell 
and the child stood> and are adorned 
with their figures ; the other two 
are surmounted by those of saints. 

The parochial church is a large 
and handsome structure. The 
hall of the Grand Council contains 
but one picture, a copy of the por- 
trait of William Tell, the original 
of which is preserved in the nun- 
nery at Seedorf. The Convent of 
Capuchin Friars, in a romantic 
situation ^ the Convent of Capu- 
chin Nuns, or Nuns of the Holy 
Cross ; the Ossuary, containing a 
very fine crystal. 

There are no literary or charit- 
able institutions at Altorf, educa- 
tion being much neglected in the 
canton, and every commune obliged 
to support its own poor. The 
Capuchin Convent contains a li- 
brary. 

The village of Burgkn, the native 
place of William Tell, is about half 
a league from Altorf. The situa- 
tion is wild and romantic ; it is 
entered by a bridge across the 
Schiichen, which flows through the 
valley of the same name. In this 
stream William Tell was drowned 
at an advanced age, while endea- 
vouring to save a child exposed to 
a similar fate. Thirty years after 
his death, his fellow citizens erected 
a chapel on the spot where his 
house had formerly stood. It con- 
tains a number of rude frescos, 
representing the principal events 
of the period, with mottos in old 
German annexed to each. Near 
to this chapel are the remains of 
an Austrian bailiff's castle, con- 
sisting of a square tower, over- 
grown with ivy, and now annexed 
to the parsonage. On the wain- 
scot, in an apartment on. the first 
floor, is the portrait of William 
Tell. 

Road from Altorf to Anderniatt. — 
The great Italian route from Altorf, 



by Mount St Gothard, follows tlie 
course of the Keuss, and passes, at 
Stackeldorf, a ruined castle. Near 
Amsteg, where the carriage road 
formerly terminated, are some ruins 
called Zwing Uri, said to be the 
remains of one of Gessler's castles, 
but which some take to be the 
ancient residence of the lords of 
Sillenen, The G^stellenbach pre- 
cipitates itself into the Reuss at 
Amsteg. Here the character of 
the scenery becomes exceedingly 
wild, and the rushing of the river 
so boisterous, that the valley is 
called the Krachen Thai, or "■ Re- 
sounding Valley." Beyond Amsteg 
is the Felli Briicke, or ^' Bridge of 
Fell." Near Wasen is a stone 
bridge, ninety feet high, called the 
Pfaffensprung, or " Priest's Leap." 
On approaching Wasen, the Schone 
Briicke, or " Handsome Bridge," is 
crossed : on the left of which is seen 
the Rohrbach descending from an 
elevated rock. Near here there is a 

Toll for a carriage with two 

horses 28 batz. 

Five persons bridge geld . 2^ ,, 

Nearly 4J francs 30| batz. 

Between Wasen and the poor 
hamlet of Goschenen, the valley 
called the Goschen Thai opens on 
the right ; a deep ravine, at whose 
extremity several glaciers are 
discerned, and through which flows 
the torrent of the same name. On 
the other side of Goschenen is the 
bridge called the Haderli Briicke. 
Here opens the gorge of the Schol- 
lenen, where the road winds over 
fearful precipices traversed by three 
bridges. That of Tanzenbein 
bounds the district of Ursereh. 
The Teufels Briicke, or "Devil's 
Bridge," elevated seventy five feet, 
is thrown across a deep chasm over 
the Reuss, which forms a consi- 
derable cataract down the shaggy 
sides of the mountain, and over 
immense fragments of rock, Avhich 
it has undermined in its course. 



270 



nouTE 48. — devil's bkidge. part it. 



When the cataract is viewed from 
this spot, it presents p, sublime 
scene of horror, which alike defy 
the representations of poetry, and 
its sister art, painting. 

The old bridge was destroyed in 
1799, and the torrent was passed 
hy Marshal Survorof, at the head 
of the Eussians, when he made his 
celebrated retreat. Survorof 's pic- 
ture of the sublime scenery, as well 
as the account of his bold and ex- 
traordinary achievement, in his 
despatch to the Emperor, are too 
interesting to be omitted. 

" Our army left the frontiers of 
Italy, regretted by all the inhabi- 
tants, but with the glory of having 
liberated that country, and tra- 
versed a chain of dreadful moun- 
tains. Here St Gothard, the Co- 
lossus of mountains, surrounded by 
clouds impregnated with thunder, 
presents itself to our view ; there 
the Vogelbert, striving, as it were, 
to eclipse the former in terrific 
grandeur. Your imperial majesty's 
troops penetrated the dark moun- 
tain cavern of Urseren, and made 
themselves masters of the bridge, 
which joins two mountains, and 
justly bears the name of Devil's 
Bridge. Though the enemy de- 
stroyed it, the progress of the vic- 
torious troops was not impeded ; 
boards were tied together with the 
officers' scarfs, and along that bridge 
they threw themselves from the 
highest precipices into tremendous 
abysses, fell in with the enemy, 
and defeated them wherever they 
could reach them. It now re- 
mained for our troops to climb 
Moimt Winter, the summit of which 
is covered with everlasting snow, 
and whose naked rocks surpass 
every other in steepness. They 
were obliged to ascend through 
cataracts rolling down with dread- 
ful impetuosity, and hurling, with 
irresistible force, huge fragments 
of rocks and masses of snow and 
clay, by which numbers of men 



and horses were impelled down the 
gaping caverns, where some found 
their graves, and others escaped 
with the greatest difficulty. It is 
beyond the powers of language to 
paint this awful spectacle of nature 
in all its horrors." 

The scenery here becomes of a 
sublime and awful description. 
Proceeding on, the Teufel's Berg, 
or " Devil's Mountain," and then 
the subterranean passage cut 
through the rock, called the Urner 
Loch, or " Uri Cavern," are at- 
tained. The latter is two hundred 
and twenty feet long, fifteen broad, 
and twelve high : apertures, also 
wrought through the rock, admit a 
glimmering light. Emerging from 
this dark avenue, the character of 
the scene becomes totally changed, 
the wild gorges hitherto pursued 
contrasting strongly with the lux- 
uriant vale of Urseren, which sud- 
denly appears on the right. This 
valley was formerly accessible only 
by a chain-bridge, suspended at a 
great elevation above the Reuss, 
and called the Staubende Briicke, 
or " Drizzling Bridge," on account 
of the foam that perpetually in- 
volved it in humidity. The Unuer 
Loch exists only since 1707. From 
this distance to Andermatt is a 
distance of a quarter of a mile. 

Hotel. The Drey Kbnige. 

There is also a tolerable irni at 
the Hopital, about a mile and a 
half beyond Andermatt, the Lion 
d' Or ; we put up here, and found 
tolerable accommodation ; in an 
adjoining building is a collection of 
minerals, found in the neighbour- 
hood, to which we were specially 
invited during the preparation of 
our dinner. In the same room is 
also a relief plan of part of Switzer- 
land, similar to those at Zurich 
and Lucerne, but upon a smaller 
scale ; it is covered with a lid : the 
said lid is not removed without 
payment of fifteen sous from each 
person. Inquiring of the people as 



SWITZEKLAND. — KOUTE 48. LUCERNE TO INTERLACHEN. 



271 



to the difficulties of the pass, it 
was represented as impassable 
without horses ; it happened that 
there were no other travellers at 
the Lion (T Or from whom we could 
obtain information, so my York- 
shire friend and self found ourselves 
next morning outside two as sorry- 
looking beasts as one would desire 
to mount ; and, as a further proof 
of the sincerity and consideration 
for our bodily comforts, the land- 
lord recommended us to take pro- 
visions in the shape of a cold fowl, 
a bottle of wine, and half a yard 
of bread ; he even went so far as 
to give us a little salt. Later in 
the day I could not avoid recol- 
lecting my juvenile sports, when I 
would run after the birds and try 
to put a little salt on their tails ; 
for, as I was properly enough told, 
that if I could, a capture must 
follow : the only difference between 
my very worthy host and myself 
was, that he caught the birds first. 
and then applied the salt. 

Two carriage-horses, as before 
stated, having been engaged for 
the ladies to Meyringen, it was 
understood that our two animals 
would take us only to the top of 
the Furca, and there be discharged, 
paying for each nine francs. The 
distance is about six leagues, half 
of which only is a gradual ascent. 

The road from Andermatt to the 
mountain Eurca leads through the 
entire valley of Urseren, which is a 
quarter of a league in breadth. It 
contains from twelve to thirteen 
hundred inhabitants, whose chief 
occupation is cheese-making. The 
first village beyond the Hopital is 
Zum Dorf, the next is Realp, from 
whence an ascent of three leagues 
attains to the summit of the Furca, 
a chain of mountains separating 
the canton of Uri and the Valais. 
Those who hire horses should not 
take them further than this spot : 
of course this does not apply to 
ladies; for although we allowed 



ourselves to be persuaded into 
another nine francs' expenditure to 
the Grimsel, I never had less in 
the shape of horse-flesh for my 
money during my natural life ; for, 
with the exception of rather a 
sharp ascent after passing the 
glacier of the Rhone, it is a steep 
and continued descent to the 
Grimsel. To account for this, it 
will be only necessary to recollect 
that, for the whole way from 
Fliielen to Andermatt, and from 
Realp to the Furca, you have 
been continually ascending to the 
height of 7,795 feet. 

As soon as we arrived at a point 
from whence we could see the en- 
tire glacier, it presented a sublime 
and beautiful object, the vastness 
and grandeur of which must be 
seen to be properly understood ; 
from the glacier rushes a consider- 
able body of water of a whitish 
colour, crossed by a wooden bridge, 
which brings us to the door of the 
only habitation to be seen in this 
secluded part of the world ; here 
our guides suggested the propriety 
of discussing our cold fowl. We 
entered the house, wondering 
whether we could get the use of a 
glass to drink our wine out of, 
when, lo ! a sight presented itself 
in the sal-a-manger, which brought 
to my recollection the birds and 
salt alluded to elsewhere. Cold 
ham, bread, butter, and cheese, 
wine glasses and wine. All the 
above delicacies were being done 
ample justice to by a party of 
" travelling English," who had ar- 
rived about half an hour before us. 
I was busily engaged in looking 
about for the hamper in which I 
supposed the eatables had been 
conveyed, when I was nearly 
knocked off my equilibrium by the 
fat host hurrying in with a piece 
of roast veal, smoking hot. I now 
found that our friend at the Lion, 
or rather Lying d" Or, stated what 
was false, when he said that no- 



272 



KOUTE 48. — GRIMSEI. HOSPICE. PART IV. 



thing could be had to eat or drink 
except the Ehone water (which, 
whatever it may do elsewhere, does 
not look very tempting at its 
source), between the Hospice and 
the Grimsel. It is unnecessary to 
say that we received but little 
civility or attention, and the offer 
of a two-franc piece for some 
water and the use of the apart- 
ment, was not sufficient to quell 
the anger of this caterer, who 
really appeared as if he considered 
his reputation was completely 
damaged. The ascent, which com- 
mences at the door of this Pig and 
Whistle, is about as steep as any 
in Switzerland ; there is, however, 
one consolation, that if it is steep, it 
is also short : all Avho have strength 
sufficient should certainly walk. 

We crossed the Rhone by a 
bridge, a short distance from the 
glacier, and reached the foot of the 
Grimsel. The prospect was any- 
thing but agreeable, as I stood 
looking up its steep side. The 
Eighi, the heaven -ascending stairs 
excepted, was not anywhere so 
steep,though certainly much higher. 
The afternoon sun, too, was bearing 
on the side of the ascent, and there 
was not a breath of air. The guide 
manifested what he thought of the 
matter by very deliberately taking 
off the pack and beginning to strip. 
When he was ready we went at it 
with all our resolution. In about 
five minutes my coat was on my 
arm ; in less than ten I began to 
look back wistfully at the glacier, 
which presented a most invitingly 
cool aspect. Luckily we got a little 
snow near the summit, with which 
to cool our parched mouths ; but, 
from some cause or other (the 
heat perhaps), this was much the 
severest ascent I had yet overcome. 
Once or twice the throbbing of my 
heart was so severe, that I thought 
it would leap out of my mouth; 
and, as to the old guide, witli whom 
it was a point of honour to refuse 



all aid in carrying the pack, he 
consoled himself at every halt, of 
Avhich we made fifty, by exclaiming, 
" Point de bagatelle, monsir!" 

We found some difficulty in 
crossing the summit of this moun- 
tain, which at the time was covered 
with snow. It is here advisable in 
all cases to dismount and A^ralk 
through the snow, even should the 
ladies have thin shoes on, or be 
carried in a chaise a porteur. 

The time occupied from the 
Ehone glacier to the Grimsel is 
about two hours. 

The Grimsel Hospice is half a 
league below the summit, in a wild 
and dreary valley, to which we- 
descended b}^ a sort of natural 
stairs, some of which were suffi- 
ciently large to turn a coach and- 
six on ; high poles were here and^ 
there stuck, to mark the road when 
the snow lies on the ground The 
building appears from a distance* 
like a large block of greyish rocfc' 
in the midst of others of a smaller 
size ; near it are two small lakes, 
one of which is called the Dead 
Lake. The person who farms the 
Hospice is bound to remain several 
months in the year j it is- a large 
building, capable of accommoiating 
a great number of persons ; I think 
there could not have been less than 
fifty persons under the roof the 
night we took shelter, composed of 
English, Irish, Germans, French, 
Swiss guides, horsekeepers, chair- 
porters, ostlers, and servants : as 
to the number of goats, it was 
beyond human skill to count them, 
as they came down in all directions 
from the mountains with distended 
udders to be milked. 

In 1799, an Austrian patrol that 
arrived here was obliged to burn 
all the Avood work of the Hospice 
to afford them warmth. The com- 
munes of the valley of Hasli, to 
whom the Hospice belongs, restored 
it at a considerable expense; which 
benevolence is recorded by an in- 



SWITZERLAND. — ROUTE 48. LUCERNE TO INTERLACHEN. 



273 



scription in the chamber of the 
person who farms the building. He 
is bound to afford gratuitous as- 
sistance to indigent travellers only, 
but is permitted to collect subscrip- 
tions throughout Switzerland, in 
aid of this pious duty. His cattle, 
which are very numerous, when 
assembled give this sequestered 
region of the Alps a patriarchal ap- 
pearance. On the 30th November, 
St Andrew's day, he annually quits 
the Hospice: leaving it unlocked, 
and provided with refreshments for 
those who may attempt the pas- 
sage subsequently to his departure. 
A table d'hote was served at 
eight o'clock, by which time all 
expected travellers were supposed 
to have arrived Plain and plenti- 
ful was the order of the supper; 
some preferred tea, and they had it. 
The bed-rooms (mostly double- 
bedded), are not remarkable for 
painter paper; but musical, as the 
least movement produces a sound 
very like a drum ; but it is not the 
time to be fastidious. I slept well 
after so many ups and downs; who 
could doubt it? One party, who 
came from Interlachen, rose early, 
went up to the pass which com- 
manded a view of the Rhone glacier, 
and came back to breakfast, re- 
turning to IMeyringen the same day. 
The bill for four persons for supper, 
beds, and breakfast, was only 21 
francs 6 sous, including two bottles 
of wine. After a good breakfast, 
the company formed into two 
parties : one started towards the 
Furca and St Gothard ; the other, 
consisting of thirty-three persons, 
towards Meyringen. Seven on 
horseback, three in chaises a por- 
teurs, eight pedestrians; the re- 
mainder were composed of guides, 
porteurs, and horsekeepei's. Ad- 
vancing in front, it was really an 
interesting sight to watch the pro- 
gress of the cavalcade, as they 
wound their way amidst the grand- 
est scenery I had yet witnessed. 



The SideViorn. — The highest sum- 
mit of the «Grimsel is called the 
Sidelhorn, which rises three quar- 
ters of a league above the Spital. 
This summit commands a more 
comprehensive view of the confi- 
guration of the higher Alps (espe- 
cially of those in the direction of 
Monte Rosa and the Simplon), than 
any other in the Oberland. Those 
who wish to enter the canton of 
the Valais can descend hence to 
Obergestelen. 

The Oher ^ar.— The path lead- 
ing towards the Ober Aar passes 
by the rock of Kessisthum (which 
forms the base of the Sidelhorn), 
a little below the Lake of Trlibten, 
and conducts to the Blirenech, 
whence the glacier of the Ober Aar 
can be distinctly seen, together 
with the Needle (Aiguille) of the 
Zinkenstock adjoining. This is, 
however, a difficult and somewhat 
dangerous excursion. 

The Handeck-chalet, the first 
halting place, may be reached in 
about two hours, by a gradual de- 
scent, crossing and recrossing the 
Aar by little picturesque bridges, 
of which I think there are no less 
than twelve between the Grirasel 
and Meyringen, a distance of about 
thirty English miles. Here also 
bread, butter, cheese, and wine, 
and excellent Kirschwasser, may be 
had; but the chief inducement for 
travellers to stop here is the cele- 
brated waterfall of Handeck in the 
neighbourhood. 

A foot-path leads to the dreary 
environs of the Handeck, at the 
foot of the Aerlenhorn, whence de- 
scends a very rapid stream, deno- 
minated after that mountain. The 
cascade of the Handeck surpasses, 
in impetuosity, all others in Swit- 
zerland. There are several spots 
from whence it can be viewed to 
advantage. The morning, between 
nine and ten, or at least the hour 
of eleven, is the most favourable 
time of the day. Erom a jutting 



274 



ROUTE 48. — KEICHENBACH. MEYRINGEN. . PART IV. 



rock the spectator beholds the Aar 
on the right, rushing downward in 
a mass of foam; while on the left the 
Aarlenbach is seen uniting with 
the greater stream. The abyss into 
which the great rolume of water, 
of diflPerent colours, descends, is so 
profound that the sun cannot reach 
it. It is well termed, in a work on 
the Oberland, " a hell of water." 
The painter Wolff contrived to have 
himself lowered into it by cords, 
and succeeded in discovering the 
point of view for the picture he 
has drawn of this magnificent cas- 
cade. The wolf which appears in 
this now very scarce print, serves 
to indicate both the name of the 
artist and the wildness of the re- 
gion it represents. There is a 
rocky projection above the cata- 
ract, where the poet Baggesen 
once seated himself to play upon 
his flute. 

The two rivers coming in diffe- 
rent directions, meeting at right 
angles, and shooting their united 
waters into the same gulf, ren- 
ders this one of the most extraor- 
dinary falls in Switzerland. 

A short distance before the tra- 
veller reaches Gutaunen, there is 
another cascade formed by the Aar, 
at the side of the road. Having 
traversed the lovely valley of Hash 
um Grund, a sort of formidable 
barrier seems to forbid any further 
approach ; this is called the Kirch- 
het, which encloses the valley of 
Meyringen. It is particularly in- 
teresting, says a modern writer, to 
the geologist ; but it is very far 
from being interesting to the pe- 
destrian, who, after a march of 
thirty miles, finds his labours for 
the day must terminate with a 
hill, short it is true, but very stiff- 
ish. Having reached the summit, 
two roads present themselves ; the 
one straight-forward leads to the 
village of Meyringen, that on the 
left to the Reichenbach waterfall, 
situate close to the Hotel Reich- 



enbach : nothing can be more lovely 
than the situation of this hotel; 
standing in a beautiful valley, it 
has more the appearance of a 
gentleman's seat in the centre of 
a park, than a house of enter- 
tainment. The interior distribution 
corresponds with the situation; a 
large and handsome saloon, bed 
rooms, at all prices and sizes, bil- 
liard room, and warm, cold, and 
mineral baths. Three table d'hotes 
at one, four, and seven o'clock; 
price, 3 frs. Those who might feel 
disposed to make a short stay in 
the house will be received as board- 
ers, and pay from 5 to 6 frs. a day. 
Two new hotels, and an estab- 
lishment for the water-cure, are 
built close to the original hotel. At 
the latter is a resident physician 
who speaks English and French, 

The vallei/ of Haslh which extends 
from the lake of Brientz to the 
Grimsel, is ten leagues in length. 
It is enclosed on all sides by lofty 
mountains, except where it opens 
on the lake of Brientz, and it is 
watered through its entire extent 
by the Aar. The chief occupa- 
tions of its inhabitants are grazing 
and cheese making. Thereare no 
fewer than fifty-four alps, or pas- 
turages, in the valley. The men are 
considered the most expert wrest- 
lers in Switzerland, especially in 
that modification of the exercise 
called schwingen.* 

The village of Meyringen is the 
chief place of the valley of Hasli.« 
The large and spacious church is 
remarkable only as having a black 
line traced along the wall, indicat- 
ing that in 1762, the overflow of 
the streams, which descended from 
the Hasliberg, filled the church 



* The guides and porteures entertained 
our party with an exhibition, during our 
halt at Handeck. Each wrestler ties a 
handkerchief tightly round his left thigh, 
this is grasped hy the adversary — the 
pulling and hauling then commences, 
until one of them is laid prostrate. 



SWITZERLAND*— ROiJTE 49. GRINDELWALD AND STATJBBACH. 275 



with water and rubbish up to that 
height. Being built near the foot 
of the mountain, it is continually 
exposed to more or less danger 
from the increase of the waters. A 
wall has been erected to stem the 
Alpbach, the most dangerous of 
all the torrents that descends from 
the Hasliberg. The belfry is at 
some distance from the church. 
It is very sohd, apparently of 
great antiquity, and was not im- 
probably a military structure in 
its original destination. A vulgar 
tradition relates, that these two 
buildings were erected by two 
brothers, who, through animosity, 
built them thus disunited. Near 
the village are the ruins of the 
castle of Eesti, the possession of 
a noble and respected family ; 
which has frequently furnished 
chief magistrates to the valley, 
and which is supposed to be de- 
scended from one of the ancient 
Swedish or Frisic chiefs mention- 
ed in the song of Hasli, as the 
original colonists of the valley. 

There is a road across the Susten 
pass to Wasen, on the road from 
Altorf to StGothard; the Grindel- 
wald pass commences behind the 
hotel des Bains. 

The most interesting object in 
the valley of Hasli is the cascade 
of the Reichenbach. It may be seen 
from the platform of the church ; 
but one of the bridges across the 
Aar afford a most advantageous 
point of view; whence about the 
middle of June it may be often 
seen embellished with a beautiful 
rainbow. There are in all seven 
falls. The highest faU should be 
seen in the forenoon; the afternoon 
or the evening is the best time for 
seeing the lowest. Those who com- 
mence from above may follow the 
course of the cascade in descending, 
cross it before arriving at the low- 
est faU, and return to Meyringen 
by the uncovered bridge of the Aar, 
below that village. Those who 



commence from below should adopt 
the reverse of this. The highest 
fall is best seen from a platform 
on the right bank. On the descent 
a bridge of one arch, called the 
Bogelein, affords another good 
point of view. 

The Alpbach is a cascade situated 
in the mountain above Meyringen, 
and is approached by following the 
shortest route from the church to 
the Hasliberg. The wild and im- 
petuous torrent which forms this 
cascade, has often spread devasta- 
tion in its course, especially when 
the falls of the Dorfbach overflow 
at the same time. 

The Fakhernbach is a cascade 
worth visiting. It precipitates 
itself from a height of two hundred 
feet, at a little distance from Mey- 
ringen. 

The expense of a guide from 
Meyringen to Grindelwald, Lau- 
berbrunnen, and thence to Inter- 
lachen, will be eighteen francs ; a 
horse, twenty-seven francs, in- 
cluding one day's return for each. 

ROUTE 49. 

TO INTERLACHEN BY THE GRINDEL- 
WALD GLACIERS, AND STATJBBACH 
WATERFALL. 

A very steep and stony ascent 
leads to the torrent of Eeichen^ 
bach : from hence may be seen 
almost the whole vale of Hasli at 
one view. Beyond this, the coun- 
try becomes very wild and ro- 
mantic ; the rocks covered only 
with pines, cascades tumbling from 
these rocks ; torrents roaring along 
the valleys ; when on a sudden a 
most fertile plain presents itself, 
studded with the wooden huts, 
where the peasants come to make 
their cheese. These verdant vales 
are smaU, and we soon plunge again 
into all the mountain horrors of 
this wonderful country. 

When we have ascended for 
about four hours, we pass the re- 



276 



ROUTE 49. — GRINDELWALD GLACIERS PART IV. 



gion of trees and come to shrubs i 
only. The upper part, however, 
of Scheidegg is by no means bar- 
ren, but covered with most excel 
lent pasture. On the left we see 
some glaciers in the distance, and 
sometimes hear the fall of the ava- 
lanches, sounding like distant 
thunder. The eye, satiated with 
the splendour of these objects, 
now willingly seeks for repose on 
the green valley of Grindelwald, .., 
which presents itself as soon as we 
arrive at the top of the mountain, 
studded with its wooden houses, all 
seeming to proclaim, by their simi- 
lar dimensions, the equality that 
reigns in these happy vales. The 
extensive verdure is interrupted 
only by these scattered habitations, 
and here and there by little patches 
of corn, hemp, and flax. The de- 
scent, though not so rude as the 
ascent, is almost too steep to ride 
down with comfort ; especially as 
the whole mountain, on this side, 
is composed of slate, which easily 
shivers, and is very slippery. It 
will take nearly three hours and a 
half to ride, or walk, from the sum- 
mit of the mountain to the inn ; 
the whole time, from Meyringen 
to the inn at Grindelwald, is seven 
hours. 

The valley of Grindelwald is 
bounded to the south by three 
lofty mountains ; Eiger to the 
riglit, Mettenberg in the middle, 
and Wetterhorn to the left. Be- 
tween the two first descents is the 
inferior, or little glacier, and be- 
tween the second and third the 
superior glacier. 

There are two hotels at Grindel- 
wald : the Ours, which is at the 
entrance of the village from Inter- 
laken and Lauterbrunnen, and the 
Aigle Noir, at the entrance coming 
from Meyringen ; the latter is, 
therefoi'e, about a mile nearer to 
the superior glacier. The other 
inn is the most convenient to stop 
at coming from Interlachen. A 



guide is unnecessary for visiting 
the glaciers — they expect three 
francs ; the path lies to the right 
after you pass the church. Tra- 
vellers coming across the Scheidegg, 
may, by descending a little out of 
the path, visit the upper glacier 
before entering the village. 

Tlie valley of Grindelwald is 
divided into seven communities, 
called Alps, each of which has its- 
separate commons. The peasants 
have all a right to keep as many 
head of cattle as they can maintain 
during the winter. First, they feed 
on the pastures of the valley ; and 
as the year advances, the cattle go 
gradually higher up the mountains j 
as the year declines, they de- 
scend in the same manner ; and, 
in the mean time, the inhabitants, 
lay in winter provisions for them 
from their home pastures. Tlie 
number of cows, sheep, and goats 
is estimated at about .5,000 ; of 
these, two-thirds are large cattle- 
This valley is a perfect model of 
the patriarchal manners, when the 
head of a family established his 
children around him, and they 
their children in succession. 

In the cemetery, and close to the 
wall of the church, is a monumental 
stone erected to Aime Mouron, a 
young clergyman from Yverdun, 
who perished in a chasm of the 
lower glacier of Grindelwald, on 
the 31st of August, 1821. 

The Upper Glacier of Grindel- 
wald. — In the valley which separates 
the Wetterhorn from the Schreck- 
horn and Mettenberg is situated 
the Upper Glacier of Grindelwald. 
It occupies a large space, extending 
across fertile meadows to the verge 
of the rising grounds of the Schei- 
deck, and is supposed to be of 
greater extent than the Inferior, or 
Lower Glacier ; but the difference, 
if any, must be sliSht. Each is 
about a quarter of a league wide 
at the extremity. The breadth of 
the Upper Glacier being perhaps a 



SWITZERLAND. — ^ROUTE 49. GRINDELWALD GLACIERS. 



277 



little greater, has acquired for it 
tlie name of Great Glacier Near 
its source it extends to the breadth 
of about two leagues. In order to 
visit this glacier from the village, 
it is necessary to advance for about 
an hour across an uneven tract, 
crossing the rivulets of Muhlibach, 
and Bergelbach. In the direction 
of the Wetterhorn the ice is very 
much loaded with the matter called 
iivfer (gravel and stones). Tlie 
torrent of the Weissbach descends 
from the Wetterhorn, that of 
Milchbach from the Mettenberg. 
These two rivulets, uniting beneath 
the platform of ice, form the 
two principal sources of the Upper 
Liitschinen. 

I cannot here omit mentioning 
the conduct of the man who occu- 
pies the chalet near tlie superior 
glacier. This person has a blun- 
derbuss, which he discharges for 
the amusement of those travellers 
who may require it. Having 
walked from the inn alone, I was 
proceeding near the premises, when 
I was rudely accosted by this man ; 
I however declined both his ser- 
vices and his blunderbuss. On my 
return from viewing the glacier, 
he demanded drink geld for walking 
over his land; this 1 refused, upon 
the principle that in submitting to 
this I would be liable to a toler- 
able round sum during the remain- 
der of my tour ; but I bought a 
chain made of hair from one of his 
children. This did not prevent my 
being followed and insulted by the 
most indecent gestures, and finally 
assailed with stones as I descended 
into the valley. Having learnt the 
man's name, I lodged a complaint 
against him with the Prefect at 
Interlachen, for the benefit of future 
travellers, as I understood that all 
persons who had resisted his illegal 
demand were insulted in a similar 
way. 

TJie Lower Glacier of Grindel- 
wald. — The Lower Glacier of Grin- 



delwald is also called the Ladies' 
Glacier, on account of its facility 
of access. Like many others, it 
advances and recedes. In 1561, it 
impeded communication with the 
Valais so slightly, that a nuptial 
party was able to pass from that 
country into the Grindelwald. In 
1578, a baptismal procession passed 
by the same way, and in 1605, a 
second nuptial party. A forest of 
pines is said to have then existed 
on the space now occupied by the 
ice. But at tlie end of the seven- 
teenth centjirj', the glacier advanced 
a full quarter of a league beyond 
its ordinary limit, forced the Liits- 
chinen to alter the direction of its 
channel, and committed some ra- 
vages on the neighbouring district. 
An easy walk of half an hour con- 
ducts to this glacier, opposite to 
which is a commodious seat for 
viewing a handsome natural arch 
at its base, through which flows 
one of the tributary streams of the 
Latschinen. The visitant may visit 
the iSTellen Balm ( Bell) on this excur- 
sion, before returning to the village. 
The Faulhorn.— One of the finest 
views of the Oberland is obtained 
from the summit of the Faulhorn, 
which therefore forms the object 
of one of the most usual excur- 
sions from Grindenwald, and can be 
ascended without any danger. The 
path which conducts to it from 
Grindelwald exhibits alternately a 
variety of smiling meadows, gloomy 
forests, rocks, chalets, a cascade, 
rich pasturages, and lastly, a still 
and solitary lake. At the pas- 
turage called the Bach Alp, lodging 
may be obtained in a chalet, by 
those who intend remaining above 
to witness the sun rise. The most 
elevated station of the Bach Alp is 
in the Bachthal, whence there is a 
fine view of the two glaciers of 
Grindelwald, which appear much 
larger than when seen from below. 
It is in this solitary valley that 
the inhabitants of Grindelwald and 



278 



ROUTE 49 FAULHORN. STAUBBACH. PART IV. 



Brientz assemble to celebrate the 
Bergdorfet, or Festival of the Moun- 
tain Village. Here is situated the 
lake above mentioned, called the 
Bachsellin, which forms lower 
down, under the name of Miilibach, 
the principal, and almost the only 
cascade of the valley of Grindel- 
wald. This region has a wild and 
gloomy appearance, heightened by 
the aspect of the dilapidated sum- 
mit of the Eothihorn, which is 
gradually falUng into decay. From 
the Bach Alp there are only two 
leagues to the summit of the 
Faulhorn. Towards the north- 
west appear the Suleck, the Niesen, 
and the Stockhorn, with the moun- 
tains of the Siebenthal, almost as 
far as Zweysimmen, and, as some 
believe, the Dent du Midi. Part 
of the Lake of Thun is also seen 
from Spietz to the lower extremity ; 
but the town is concealed by the 
promontory of the Nase. Eurther 
on is an immense tract beyond 
the Burgistein, wherein some think 
they have had a glimpse of the 
city of Berne. The view extends 
to the Jura, the Lake of Neuf- 
chatel. Mount Chasseral on the 
lake of Bienne, the Hasenmatt, 
the Weissenstein behind Solothurn, 
and the Hauenstein, where it melts 
away in the distance. Some assert 
that even the Vosges and the Black 
Forest are visible in this direction. 
More to the east, and at a little 
distance, are seen the Beatenberg, 
the Gemmen Alp, the Harder, the 
Augstmatthorn, the Brientzer Grat, 
and the Kieder Grat, above which 
the Hohgant elevates itself, and 
beside it the Scheibenflue, with the 
Zerkrautenberg (which, as tradi- 
tion has it, was scratched by Satan, 
and bears the marks of his talons). 
Further on are Pilatus, the Sattal, 
the Lake of the Four Forest Can- 
tons, that of Zug, with the capital 
of the same name, and at a great 
distance, some parts of the cantons 
of Zurich and Thurgovia ; the 



Righi, the Mythen, above Schwitz, 
and the mountains of the canton of 
Unterwalden. 

Pursuing the torrent formed by 
the two Glaciers of Grindelwald, 
till they join the torrent that comes 
down the valley of Lauterbrunnen 
(pedestrians cross the Wangern 
Alp), we now turn to the left, 
into the latter valley. Huge masses 
of rock, with trees growing in the 
most grotesque manner out of 
them, and thrown about irregu- 
larly, characterize the entrance 
into this picturesque and romantic 
valley, which is in general very 
narrow, in many parts leaving 
barely room for a little road be- 
tween the torrent and the moun- 
tain. Frequently vast rocks that 
have fallen from the impending 
mountains, almost stop the course 
of the torrent, and make it rage 
with redoubled fury. The stu- 
pendous Hunnevflue, resembling a 
gigantic bastion, seems to forbid 
our proceeding any farther ; rocks, 
despoiled of all their verdure, 
threaten a sudden fall, and fre- 
quent cascades tumble down the 
precipices. 

The road next winds through 
dusky pines, where a stern silence 
is interrupted only by the Lats- 
chinen beating furiously against 
rocks that strive in vain to detain 
it prisoner. Sometimes the moun- 
tains seem to close as if to forbid 
farther passage ; but at length the 
valley opens, and the little scat- 
tered village of Lauterbrunnen 
shows its smiling face ; the sim.- 
ple wooden mansions, situated in 
green pastures, give at once repose 
to the eye and tranquillity to the 
mind. The church, lately built, 
and the residence of the minister, 
soon come in sight, and a little 
beyond, the Staubbach is seen 
pouring down its waters from the 
top of the mountain. It is in these 
delightful excursions that the plea- 
sures of pedestrianism, so elo- 



SWITZERLAND. — ROUTE 49. INTERLACHEN. 



279 



quently described by the poet, are 
gratified to the fullest extent : 

No sad vicissitudes his heart annoy ; 
Blows not a zephyr, but it whispers joy ; 
For him lost flowers their idle sweets 

exhale : 
He tastes the meanest note that swells the 

gale ; 
For him sod seats the cottage door adorn, 
And peeps the far oflF spire, his evening 

bourn ! 
Dear is the forest frowning o'er his head, 
And dear the greensward to his velvet 

tread ; 
Moves there a cloud o'er mid-day's flaming 

Upward he looks, and calls it " luxurj';" 
Kind nature's charities his steps attend. 
In every babbling brook he finds a friend, 
Whilst chast'ning thoughts of sweetest use, 

bestowed 
By Wisdom, moralise his pensive road.* 

When the sun appears over the 
mountains, and darts his rays upon 
the waterfall, is the proper time to 
view it. The Staubbach is then 
finely illuminated, and the Iris 
appears at the bottom in full 
splendour. The waterfall, 930 feet 
perpendicular, andj being broken 
into spray, is dispersed by the 
wind which the cascade itself con- 
tinually creates. After great rains, 
the force of the water is considera- 
ble enough to carry the fall quite 
clear of the rock; but at other times, 
though the mountain is almost per- 
pendicular, the water breaks against 
some projecting parts, and is thus 
more dispersed. 

Lauterbrunnen may be named 
the valley of cascades. The Staub- 
bach is by no means the only one ; 
ten may be counted from one point 
near the parsonage house, and there 
is double that number, at least, in 
a very small space ; deeper in the 
valley are many more, among which 
are two that fall from a greater 
height than even the Staubbach; 
but as they do not descend at one 
leap, they are not so remarkable. 
The view from the village is closed 
by Mount Jungfrau, whose sum- 



* Wordsworth's Poems, "Vol. i, p. 70. 



mits, called Jungfrauhorn, are 
distinctly seen; together with the 
isolated rock at the extremit)'', 
called the Monk, round which 
the daring hunters will sometimes 
creep, with the assistance of their 
hooked knives, in pursuit of the 
chamois, which abound in these 
parts. Still more distant appear 
the glaciers that descend from the 
steep rocks of Gros shorn andBrei- 
thorn. 

The distance from Gjindenwald to 
Interlachen by the valley is reckoned 
about four leagues and a half; to cross 
the Wengern Alp, and by Lauter- 
brunnen nine, leagues. 

INTERLACHEN. 

Hotel Interlachen (the only one). 
Nothing can be more lovely than the 
situation of this English colony. A 
broad road, about a mile in length, 
bordered with immense walnut 
trees, may be considered the high 
street of Interlachen. On the right 
side, proceeding from BrientZj sur- 
rounded by tastefuUy laid-out gar- 
dens, are a great number of large 
well-built modern houses, com- 
manding a fine view of the valley, 
terminated by the snow-capped 
Jungfrau. Here and there the 
word " Pension" may be seen. Be- 
sides those flanking the road, there 
are several pensions pleasantly' 
situated in different parts of the 
valley; they all wear a gay and 
cheerful aspect outside, blended 
with good entertainment within. 
This spot may be considered as 
the bank of Switzerland, being the 
chief place where travellers ex- 
change notes without any deduc- 
tion. It may also be considered in 
the light of an exchange, for per- 
sons may be spoken with from all 
parts of the globe ; it is likewise 
a rendezvous for the lame and 
the lazy. " I say, Wilkins, — 
nice place this : lots of pretty 
girls;— amiable people.the Murray s 



280 



EOUTE 49. — INTEBLACHEN. BOARDING-HOUSES. PART IV. 



— very ! ' " My dear fellow, as I 
am a little lame, you and Jenkins 
had better finish your tour without 
me — can't go, positively." The 
married ladies are so delighted with 
it, that on no account will they 
allow their spouses to deny them- 
selves the pleasure of making ex- 
cursions. "You know, my dear, 



Although there are a great many 
boarding houses in Interlachen, 
MuUer's is decidedly the best. The 
inferior houses also charge as high 
as 5 and 6 francs a day; for this 
sum everything is included, with 
the exception of wine and washing: 
the latter is villanously dear. 
Breakfast at nine, tea, coffee, bread 



how poorly I am when I travel over ' and butter and honey ; eggs and 
these frightful mountains: really meat charged extra: dinner at four, 
you must go and see all you can; consisting of soup, fish, joints, and 
never mind me, I'll do very well made dishes, besides other nicnacs, 
here. I can't travel about any I too numerous to mention, and des- 
more ; you'll find me here when i sert. Wine (ordinaire) is charged 30 
you come back; there now, don't : sous a bottle. Tea ateight, al'Ang- 



be longer than a month away; 
there's a dear!" 

If a friend has cut you during 
your tour, ten to one but you'll 
catch him cutting his mutton at 
Muller's. If you have been jour- 
neying in the society of a pleasant 
party, don't grieve at parting, or 
if you have fallen in love, en pas- 
sant, M'ith some travelling beauty, 
don't despair of seeing her again, 
for you'll be sure to find her and 
her manmia at Interlachen. 

Pension Mailer. — This splendid 
establishment was first inhabited 
in August, 1844, by his majesty 
the Iving of Viirtemberg and su'te, 



laise, bread and butter and honey 
again. The size and situation of your 
bed-room will depend upon the num- 
ber of persons in the house before 
you arrive ; but as changes are daily 
taking place, by a little manage- 
ment you raa}'^, in time, get the 
best room in the house. Boarders 
are received for single days, or by 
the week, or month! 

There are no shops in Inter- 
lachen; but a few of a ver}'' ordi- 
nary description are to be found in 
Interseen, which, in fact, may be 
considered the Faubourg of Inter- 
lachen, Ladies, aware of this, will, 
of course, provide any articles they 



It is a well arranged solid building; i may require at one of the towns 



the ground-floor contains one of 
the largest and handsomest saloons 
in Switzerland ; billiard, reading, 
and card rooms: beneath these are 
the offices. On the first floor are 
about thirty convenient- sized bed- 
rooms, comfortably and even ele- 
gantly fitted up; the door of each 
apartment opening on a wide cor- 
ridor: the second floor contains a 
repetition of the first; and, alto- 
gether, the arrangements for the 
accommodation of the boarders are 



through which they may pass; but 
visitors desirous to purchase carved 
imitation Swiss cottages and other 
wood-Avare peculiar to the country 
will find at the Temple of Minerva 
a choice collection, the proprietor, 
Mr Wyder, undertakes to forward 
articles purchased from him to 
England or elsewhere 

Thepresent village of Interlachen 
consists of few ancient buildings, 
with the exception of the old 
church and some remains of the 



well adapted to meet the views of ! ancient convents, which, since the 



the most fastidious; the charge is 
6 francs a day. Mr MuUer, the 
proprietor, is wellknoAvn for his at- 
tention and civility, havingkeptthe 
hotel Interlachen for several v ears. 



reformation, have been in part 
modified into the residence for the 
prefect, and in part converted into 
an hospital for the indigent and 
insane. Before that period, there 



SWITZERLAND. — ROUTE 49. INTERLACHEN. 



281 



existed at Interlachen two Augns- 
tinian convents, the one for fifty 
monks, and the other for forty 
nuns, within the same building. 

The convent of Interlachen was 
founded about the year 1130, or 
1133, by Selinger Von Obenhofen, 
and subsequently placed under the 
protection of Berne, by Henry VI, 
emperor of Germany. In process j 
of time the discipline of this estab- j 
lishment became so relaxed, that 
the Bernese government found it 
necessary to prefer a complaint to 
the Pope on the subject. The 
female convent was suppressed in 
1431, and its revenues transferred 
to the chapter of St Vincent, at 
Berne. A hundred years later the 
monks of Interlachen were the 
princii3al instigators of the oppo- 
sition made here to the progress of 
the reformation, which was not over- 
come without the effusion of blood. 

The valley of Interlachen was, 
in the thirteenth century, subject 
to inundations, which rendered 
the soil sterile and the air un- 
wholesome. The boisterous Lilts- 
chinen, which then descended to 
join the Aar, was the cause of 
these inconveniences, for which 
a remedy was found in the opu- 
lence of the abbey, which diverted 
its course to the lake of Brientz, 
at an almost ruinous pecuniary 
sacrifice, although aided by the 
lords of Unterseen and Unspunnen. 
At present the character of the 
soil is so altered, that the valley is 
frequently covered with flowers so 
early as February. 

Divine Sei^vice is performed 
every Sunday during the season, 
at eleven in the morning and six 
in the evening, in a neat but small 
chapel attached to the old church ; 
it is capable of holding about two 
hundred persons. The clergyman 
is supported by the voluntary 
contributions of the visitors : for 
that purpose books are left at 
each of the boarding-houses. 



The Post-office is in Interseen. 
Letters arrive daily at four o'clock, 
and depart at three. Letters to go 
the same day must be put in by 
two o'clock. 

EXCtTRSIONS FROM INTERLACHEN. 

Fares of Cars and Horses from 
Interlachen. 

To Grindelwald, and return same 
day : — 

^ 1 horse . . .9 francs 

2 horses , . . 18 " 

To Lauterbrunnen and back : — 



1 horse 

2 horses 



6 francs 
12 " 



To Lauterbrunnen and Grindel- 
wald, and return same day : — 

1 horse . . 10 fiancs 

2 horses . . . IJ " 
Saddle horses and nuiles are the same 

expense. 

To accomplisli both comfortably, 
it is necessary to start by six o'clock 
in the morning.* It may be right 
to observe, that the people who let 
the cars Avill try to make two days' 
work of the excursion to both 
places ; should this be attempted, 
it will only be necessary to produce 
the tarifi", which will at once set 
the matter at rest The Grinelwald 
and Lauterbrunnen described at 
page 277-78. 

The HohhilM— It requires only 
a quarter of an hour's walk to 
arrive at the summit of the little 
hill of the Hohbuhl. The way lies 
across the Zollbriicke, or *' Toll- 
bridge." The view is superb from 
the rotundo, or summer-house, 
supported by twelve columns, 
which is built on this elevation. 
The return may be varied by 
striking in upon a romantic but 

* The ridiculous recommendation in 
Murray's Hand-book to leave Thun at 
eight in morning, visit Interiachen, the 
Glaciers of Lauterbrunnen, the Staubbach 
Waterfall, and return to take the steamer 
from Neuhaus to Thun at half past two, is 
impossible. It took the writer an entire 
day, leaving Interlachen at six in the 
morning. , 



282 



ROUTE 49. — E2)mR0NS OP INTERLACHEN. PART IV. 



difficult path, which leads to the 
Goldey, a small plain between the 
Harder and the right bank of the 
Aar, which commands a fine view 
of the Jungfrau. Near the Goldey 
are some grottos in the rocks, 
whereof one, distinguishable from 
the rest, is called " Cavern of the 
Dwarf Kings." On quitting the 
Goldey, the tourist has his choice 
of returning at once to Interlachen, 
or ascending still higher, by fol- 
lowing the route of the Beatenberg, 
in the direction of Oberhohen, 
Luchenbiihl, and Waldeck. 

The Gemmen Alp. — The moun- 
tain called the Gemmen Alp com- 
mands one of the finest views in 
the vicinity. The summit can be 
attained on foot in four hours. 
The path leads through Waldeck, 
and the Kiih Alp, where pines of an 
extraordinary size may be seen. 

The Castle of Unspunnen. — About 
a league from Interlachen is the 
ruined castle of Unspunnen. Of 
the original building little more 
remains than a semi-circular tower, 
supported by a more elevated 
square one. The interior is quite 
choked up with foliage and rub- 
bish. The origin of this castle is 
lost, even to tradition. An obscure 
legend is still extant, which re- 
presents one of its ancient pro- 
prietors as a sort of Blue Beard, 
who immured his wives in dun- 
geons to espouse others. 

Matten and Bonigen. — By pro- 
ceeding straight forward along the 
western wall of the old convent of 
Interlachen, the village of Matten 
is reached, one of the most ancient 
of the district. The principal ob- 
ject in it is a large basin for water, 
formed of Goldschwyl stone. One 
house is adorned with stained 
glass, dated two centuries back, 
among the devices represented on 
which is an armed bear, carrying 
some turnips in his belt, also an 
old iron spur, found not many 
years since in the ground, beside 



an old oak, near the castle of tin- 
spunnen. Beyond this village the 
road traverses the rich plain which 
extends from Wilderschwyl, and 
the ruins of Unspunnen, to the 
lake of Brientz. On the right is 
seen the church of Gsteig. A 
bridge crosses the Liitschinen, be- 
yond which the road branches 
into two parts ; the one conducting 
to Gsteig, the other to Bonigen. 
Above this village appears the 
Schiittiberg, which, according to a 
nearly obsolete tradition, is no- 
thing more than the wreck of a 
fallen mountain, that in its descent 
overwhelmed a castle. Situated 
in the plain, with some few of its 
houses built on the slope of the 
Schiittiberg, is a rock called the 
Stockbalm ; it is said to conceal a 
grotto, inhabited by the gnomes, 
or dwarfs of the mountain. A 
rivulet runs along the entire length 
of the hamlet, or village, of Bo- 
nigen. Beyond the village is the 
station for boats, formed by a small 
arm of the lake. After re-crossing 
the Liitschinen by a bridge lower 
down, and nearer to Bonigen, a 
new path is met : the road passes 
near the Burgleim, an eminence 
which forms a fine point of view, 
and the lake of Goldschwyl. At a 
little distance is the handsome 
village of Ringgenberg, and after- 
wards a mill, situated on the Spuli- 
bach, a canal which connects the 
Aar with the Liitschinen, and of 
which one arm traverses Inter- 
lachen. 

Goldschwyl. — Those who wish to 
visit the north-western shore of 
the lake of Brientz arrive first at 
the village of Goldschwyl, situated 
upon the Aar, between Interlachen 
and the lake. After passing the 
Zollbriicke a large path is found, 
which conducts to the village. 
Near Goldschwyl is a hillock, 
crowned with the ruins of its old 
church, an interesting object. In 
1674 the parish of Goldschwyl was 



SWITZERLAND. — ROUTE 50. INTERLAGHEN TO BRIEKTZ. 



283 



transferred to Ringgenberg. Far- 
ther on is its lake, formerly called 
the Fallensee, where a baron of 
Ringgenberg, while amusing him- 
self with angling, was surprised 
by his enemies, and carried pri- 
soner into the canton of Unter- 
walden ; at the same time his son 
was expelled, his castle burnt, and 
the village of Brientz occupied. 
The Bernese, however, coming to 
his assistance, effected his prompt 
deliverance. 

The Village of Gsteig stands on 
the Liitschinen. One road leading 
to it passes through Matten, another 
through Wilderschwyl, so that the 
visitant may at pleasure vary his 
route. Between Matten and Gsteig 
is the hamlet of Gsteig Alment. 
An ancient custom exists in this 
district, which may partly explain 
the luxuriance of its foliage : on 
every nuptial occasion some young 
trees are planted on the territory 
of the commune, which becomes 
the property of the future family 
and their posterity for ever. From 
Gsteig a cross road leads direct to 
Wilderschwyl ; the course can, 
however, be lengthened, by pro- 
ceeding to the healthy hamlet of 
Gsteigwyler, or Wyler, almost 
quite concealed amid its abundant 
orchards, 

ROUTE 50. 

INTERLAGHEN TO BRIENTZ. 

Those who may have crossed 
from Meyringen to Interlachen by 
the Grindelwald Glaciers and Lau- 
terbrunnen, will make an excursion 
to the Giesbach Waterfall, from 
Interlachen. 

A small steamer goes from Inter- 
lachen to Brientz three times a day, 
landing passengers at the Giesbach 
on their way to Brientz, and calling 
on their return, allowing three 
quarters of an hour, to be disposed 
of thus : one quarter to ascend, 
one quarter to descend, and, as a 



matter of course, one quarter to 
view the waterfall. The steamer 
leaves (or rather did leave Inter- 
lachen during the summer of 1844) 
at seven, half-past eleven, and four ; 
returns from Brientz at half-past 
nine, three quarters past one, and 
a quarter past six. The time occu- 
pied, includiug a stoppage at Gies- 
bach, is one hour and ten minutes. 
Fares, each way, 2 francs (French), 
or by taking a ticket there and 
back, 3^ francs. This is valuable 
for five days. 

The lake is three leagues in 
length by half a league in breadth. 
It receives the Aar at its northern, 
and discharges it at its southern 
extremity, near which it also re- 
ceives the Liitschinen. A chain of 
very steep mountains borders its 
south-eastern shore, where there 
are only two villages. The best 
fish in the lake are called after it, 
brientzling. 

The most interesting places along 
the lake are : 

Iseltwald.—A path which crosses 
the Liitschinen at Bonigen, leads 
to Iseltwald, passing by a group of 
houses called Senegg, and leaving 
on the right the small cascade, the 
Mutschbach. The village is built 
in the depth of a small bay, wherein 
is an islet named the Island of 
Bonigen, because the first indivi- 
dual that cultivated it was an in- 
habitant of that village, but more 
anciently Schnecken Insel, or 
"Snail Island." The situation of 
the village, and the view it com- 
mands, are equally delightful. A 
window of stained glass in the village 
of Matten, between Interlachen and 
Bonigen, represents, as has been 
mentioned, in one of its compart- 
ments an armed bear with some 
turnips in its girdle. With this 
emblem is connected the following 
tradition : — Three robust giants, 
always clad in the skins of bears, 
or wolves, dwelt at Iseltwald, and 
were sent as the contingent of the 



284 



EOtJTE 50. — GIESSBATCtt WATERFALL. PART IV. 



district, wlien the Emperor of 
Germany called upon his subjects 
of the Oberland for troops. The 
emperor, being indignant at the 
paucity of the forces of Iseltwald, 
the giants calmed him with the 
assurance that they were equiva- 
lent to the entire hostile army ; 
then repaired to the neighbouring 
wood, and providing each a huge 
trunk of a tree, made good their 
assertion. When the emperor in- 
quired what reward he should 
bestow upon them, they merely re- 
quested for their commune the 
privilege of bearing the imperial 
eagle on its banner, whenever it 
should be able to furnish 100 men 
more for his imperial majesty's 
service; and for themselves, the 
liberty of gathering three turnips 
in the plantation of B{3nigen, which 
was part of the territory of the 
empire, whenever they should feel 
thirsty while walking along the 
lake, whereof they were to carry 
one in their hand and two in their 
belt. The request being granted, 
they regaled themselves with tur- 
nips at a place between Iseltwald 
and Bonigen, called Am Stadel; 
but the little hamlet of Iseltwald 
has never been able to furnish the 
100 stipulated combatants. Ac- 
cording to tradition, the promontory 
which forms one side of the bay of 
Iseltwald was once an island, and 
the original domain of the lords of 
Matten. Ancient documents exist 
which prove that one Minna of 
Matten made considerable dona- 
tions to the church of Interlachen, 
and some have fancied they had 
discerned in a sunk square enclo- 
sure in the neighbourhood, the site 
of a large tower, beneath which 
were the subterraneous dungeons 
of the castle, hollowed out of the 
rock. 

The Tanzplatz. — Near the Gies- 
bach is the Tanzplatz, or " dancing- 
place," a projecting terrace on the 
slope of the mountain, covered with 



verdure. Tradition relates that 
during a festival enlivened by the 
dance, two lovers being led too near 
the edge of the precipice by the 
evolutions of a waltz, fell over and 
were drowned. It was supposed 
by some that they did it intention- 
ally in order to die in mutual em- 
brace. 

The Giesbach. — The celebrated 
cascade of the Giesbach is at the 
opposite side of the lake from the 
village. Ic is formed hy a torrent 
which descends from the Hagel 
See, joined by another from the 
Hexen See, two small lakes of the 
little valley of HlibnerthaL This 
united torrent traverses the pas- 
turage of Ischingelfeld, on its way 
to the lake of Brientz. The Gies- 
bach consists of a number of beau- 
tiful waterfalls, the second of which 
is considered the finest. At the Gies- 
bach, on the hill facing the princi- 
pal fall, is a house where refresh- 
ment and beds may be had at the 
following moderate terms: breaks 
fast, 1 fr. ; dinner, 2 fr. ; bed, 1 fr. 
The people who keep this very 
useful establishment are also ma- 
nufacturers of various articles of 
wood -ware peculiar to the country. 

Reicheribach is described at page 
274. 

Brientz. Hotel, Croix Blanche, 
pleasantly situated at the extremity 
of the lake. Saddle-horses and 
char-a-bancs maybe obtained here; 
the cost of the latter to Reichen- 
bach and return is 6 fr., with a 
trifle drink-geld to the driver. The 
distance is 2f leagues, occupying 
an hour and a half. 

The village of Brientz is situated 
between the lake on the south and 
the Brientzergrat on the north. 
The church is built on a command- 
ing rock, whereon there are also 
some ruins, which renders it pro- 
bable that the mansion of the an- 
cient coimts of Brientz stood here. 
According to tradition, the last of 
this race perished in a crusade 



SWITZERLAND. — ROUTE 51. LAKE OF THTJN. 



285 



about the beginning of the twelfth 
century. The girls of this village 
are celebrated for the fine tone of 
their voices. Companies of these 
Alpine songstresses are always 
ready to attend at the inn, or ac- 
company visitants in their excur- 
sions upon the lake. 

The Muhlibach and the Rothhorn. 
— Kear one extremity of the village 
of Brientz is a cascade called the 
Muhlibach, or Planalpbach, which, 
although not so celebrated as the 
Giesbach, still merits a visit. 
When time permits, it would be 
worth while to ascend to the fine 
pasturage of the Plan Alp. 

ROUTi: 51. 

INTERLACHEN TO THUN, 

The Steamer which plies between 
Thun and Neuhaus leaves the for- 
mer place at half-past eight in the 
morning and two in the afternoon, 
and Neuhaus at half-past eleven 
and fom' ; thus allowing one hour 
and five mii^iutes between the ar- 
rival of the steamer from Brientz 
and the departure for Thun. An 
omnibus conveys passengers from 
one steamer to the other, calling at 
the various boarding-houses ; the 
tare for each passenger, including 
luggage, is 5 batz ; a carriage will 
take two or more passengers for 
2 fr. Fares by steam : after-deck, 
2 fr. ; fore-deck, 1 fr. 

Th€ Lake of Thun is in length 
between four and five leagues, in 
breadthi one- On the right, not far 
from Thun, is the opening of the 
canal of the Kander, the greatest 
public work that has ever been 
effected in Switzerland, This tor- 
rent (which descends from the 
glacier of Kander, in the vicinity 
of Gemmi), surcharged with the 
Avreck and rubbish accumulated in 
its course, formerly flowed into the 
Aar below Thun, at times encum- 
bering its channel and devastating 



the valley. To obviate this incon- 
venience the present . canal was 
formed, which occupied between 
two and three hundred workmen, 
for three years. On each side of 
the lake is a road : that along the 
north-eastern shore is a new road, 
and practicable for carriages ; that 
on the south-western is only prac- 
ticable for carriages to a httle dis- 
tance beyond Faulensee. These 
two roads unite at Unterseen. 
Most of the interesting places along 
the borders of the lake can be con- 
veniently visited in boats. Tour- 
ists generally embark at Hofstettin, 
sometimes at Scherzlingen. At 
Schadau the entire lake opens on 
the view; on the right are seen the 
Nienen, and the range from the 
Bliimlisalp to the Abendberg. The 
Engel, the Dreyspitz, the Hund- 
shornes, the Schwalmeren, the 
Schnabelhorner, and the Suleck, 
would appear to form one immense 
mass of mountain, but for the light 
vapours which generally define 
their outlines. On the north east- 
ern shore is seen the church of Hil- 
terfingen, on the opposite side the 
tower of Strattlingen, and the canal 
of the Kander. 

The most interesting spot, per- 
haps, in the vicinity of the lake of 
Thun is the Beatenhohle, or Grotto 
of St Beatus, situated upon the 
Beatenberg, a mountain called after 
the same saint. About seventeen 
centuries since, according to fabu- 
lous tradition, St Beatus, a native 
of England, took up his abode in 
this cave, having first ejected its 
former occupant, a dragon. Here 
he gained a livelihood by plaiting 
nets and baskets, while employed 
in the pious labour of converting 
the Swiss to Christianity. Seated 
upon his miraculous mantle, he tra- 
versed the air for the more ready 
communication with the heathens 
of the environs. He was always 
clad in hair cloth, and often fasted 
three successive days. He died in 



286 



ROUTE 51. — LAKE OF THUN. PART IV. 



1512, at the age of ninety. His in- 
terment on the spot attracted a 
great afl&ux of pilgrims, and an an- 
nual festival was instituted, which 
was held on the 9 th of May. His 
skidl was venerated in the cavern 
down to the year 1528, when it was 
removed by order of the Bernese 
government, and interred at Inter- 
lachen. As, however, the pilgrim- 
age still continued, orders were is- 
sued to wall up the entrance, which 
were, in 1566, put in execution. It 
has since been re- opened, and ap- 
pears to have been once divided 
into many cells or compartments. 
From Merlingen one may ascend 
on foot to the cavern in one hour, 
and those who double the promon- 
tory may reach it in a quarter of 
an hour. The path which conducts 
from Merlingen is traversed by se- 
veral ravines. Several hafidsome 
cascades diversify the route; the 
greatest torrent, which descends 
from the cavern, and is thence 
called the Beatenbach, is heard at 
a considerable distance. On ap- 
proaching the Beatenhbhle. it is 
better not to advance by Leerau, 
but to ascend upon the left. About 
a league from Merlingen is a place 
called the Rosstall, or " Horses' 
Stable," consisting of a sort of 
grotto hewn in the rock, to serve 
as a shelter for beasts of burthen 
belonging to pilgrims. Here are 
seen some traces of an ancient road 
and an arch, which probably be- 
longed to a chapel no longer in ex- 
istence. The ancient hermitage 
commands an admirable view, es- 
pecially of the mountain Niesen. 
It properly consists of two conti- 
guous caverns, the appearance of 
which would lead to the supposi- 
tion that the waters of the lake 
once ascended to this height, and 
hollowed the rock into its present 
form. The grotto of the torrent is 
very deep, and variously stated by 
the peasantry to extend to Entli- 
buch, the Black Forest, and the 



Tyrol. There is considerable dan- 
ger in entering it, as the stream 
often swells to an alarming height, 
almost instantaneously. The peo- 
ple of the vicinity assert that this 
swelling is connected with a sub- 
terraneous roaring like that of 
thunder, which is heard even on 
the opposite side of Beatenberg, in 
the pasturage of Seefield. This 
noise, perceptible at the distance of 
two leagues, is termed the review 
of Seefield, from its resemblance to 
a volley of musquetry, interrupted 
by an occasional discharge of artil- 
lery. Near the lake, under the 
Beatenberg, is a small patch of 
greensward, whereon a gentleman 
of Berne had formed an agreeable 
retreat. The church of Beaten- 
berg is at a considerable elevation 
on the mountain, and can only be 
reached by a steep ascent of a 
league. 

Hotels. There are five hotels at 
Thun, three of which are available 
for English travellers ; namely, 
the JBelle Vue, Bateau a Vapeur, 
and Freyhoff. The first is un- 
doubtedly the best in point of 
situation. The Bateau is on the 
edge of the lake. The Freyhoff 
is now improved. The Croix 
Blanche is one of the has beens, and 
was considered the best some 
twenty years ago; and the Fau- 
con is done up. The Belle Vue 
and Bateau belong to the Messrs 
Knetchtenhofer, the proprietors of 
the steam packet, who are noto- 
rious for their uncouth manners, 
want of civility, and extravagant 
charges; travellers proceeding to 
Interlachen should recollect that 
at the above-named place they 
can attend divine worship as weU 
as at Thun ; although, to induce 
persons to remain at one of their 
houses, Messrs Knetchtenhofer have 
built a chapel on their premises. 

There are also boarding houses 
at Thun. That ofKock-Scheidegg, 
between the bridge and the 



SWITZERLAND. — ^ROUTE 51. THTTN. 



287 



Belle Vue, is highly spoken of, for 
being clean, well situated, well ma- 
naged, and reasonable, the charge 
being only 5 frs. a day. There is 
a garden which extends to the 
edgetop of the lake. Baths are at- 
tached to the premises. 

Thun is agreeably situated on 
the Aar, near its junction with 
the Thuner See, or lake of Thun, 
and contains about 4,800 inhabi- 
tants. Above the town, on the 
right, is the castle, with its round 
towers. On the same hiU is the 
parochial church, formerly dedi- 
cated to St Maurice, which was 
rebuilt in 1768, but without any 
architectural beauty. The ascent to 
the cemetery, in the midst whereof 
stands the church, is by a long 
flight of wooden stairs. On the 
same hill are also the habitations 
of the clergy, and the public schools. 
Thun and its environs are seen to 
great advantage from this spot: 
the most favourable time is about 
nine or ten o'clock in the morning, 
when the mountains are, in bright 
weather, illuminated with the sun. 

The appearance of one street is 
very remarkable. It is a some- 
what steep acclivity, with a hori- 
zontal terrace on each side, sup- 
ported by low columns, gradually 
diminishing in height, and divided 
into square compartments by an 
iron railing in front of each house. 
The quarter of Belliz, which occu- 
pies the western part of the town, 
is situated on an islet, formed by 
two branches of the river, and tra- 
versed by a single street, the Eo- 
sengarten. On each of the two 
branches of the river are construct- 
ed two bridges, the one covered, 
the other uncovered. Those at 
the extremities of the town are 
provided with gates; a third gate 
conducts to Berne, and the fourth, 
the gate of Laui, to the handsome 
promenades on the mountain of 
Griisisberg. Traces of part of the 
fall of this mountain still appear 



above the environing verdure. 
The place is called Lauine, in 
memory of this circumstance. 
Tradition says that the mass of 
fallen matter filled up an arm of 
the Aar, which once flowed be- 
hind the hill whereon stands the 
castle. 

After the extinction of the family 
of the counts of Thun, the town 
became successively subject to the 
duke of Zahringen and the counts 
of Kyburg. The territory of count 
Hartmann , of Kyburg, extended, at 
the commencement of the four- 
teenth century, over the entire 
Oberland, as far as the High Alps, 
over the Emmenthal, as far as 
Landshut and Burgdorf, and over 
a great number of lordships in 
Argovia. Hartmann, his son, 
was killed in a quarrel which oc- 
curred during an entertainment 
given to eflect a reconciliation be- 
tween him and his brother Eber- 
hard, whom he had confined in the 
fortress of Rochefort, near Neuf- 
chatel. Eberhard, to ensure his 
safety, procured from the Bernese 
his admission into the rights of 
perpetual burgership, on the cession 
of the sovereignty of Thun, toge- 
ther with part of his estates ; and 
in 1375, his son, also named Hart- 
mann, assured to the Bernese the 
possession of the town. 

Panorama of the Righi, belonging 
to the Messrs Schmid, affords beau- 
tiful and interesting views, as seen 
from the summit of this celebrated 
mountain. Admission 1 Sv/iss fi*. 
They have also a Cabinet of Arts, 
containing an extensive collection 
of Swiss views, figures, costumes, 
minerals, insects, and alpine plants. 

A Steam Packet to Neuhause, 
twice a day; on Sundays, three 
times ; at six, half-past eight, and 
two in the afternoon. Fares, best 
cabin, 2 frs.; second cabin, 1 fr. 
Time occupied between Thun and 
Neuhause, about one hour. Dili- 
gences and cars in attendance 



288 



ROUTE 52. - THUN TO BEENE. PART IV- 



to convey passengers to Inter- 
lachen. 

Diligences to Berne three times a 
day; at six in the morning, eleven 
at noon, and six in the evening. 
Fares, in the coupe, 18 batz ; in- 
side, 16 batz. Hire of a carriage 
with two horses, starting in the 
morning, 18 fr.; one horse, 12 fr. : 
returns, 9 and 6 fr. ; distance, five 
and a half leagues ; time, three 
hours ; walking, five hours and ten 
minutes. 

ROUTE 52. 

THUN TO BERNE. 

17^ English miles. 

Thun to Kiesen - - 85 minutes. 

Kiesen to Neuhause - - 60 ,, 

Neuhause to Munsingen - 15 ,, 

Munsingen to Allinendingen 75 ,, 

AUmendingen to Muri - 30 ,, 

Muri to Berne - - - 43 „ 



Hours 5 10 minutes. 

The road from Thun to Berne 
presents some of the most agree- 
able scenery to be met with in 
Switzerland, leading through a 
number of villages inhabited by 
peasantry who appear to be in 
possession of every comfort, and 
commanding fine views of the 
Alps and valley of the Aar, paral- 
lel to which the road runs. 

The Castle of Kiesen, built upon 
a low hill, is a handsome object. 

Near Wichtrach the brave General 
Von Erlach, descended from the 
Swiss heroes of that name, fell an 
innocent victim to popular fury, on 
the 5th of March, 1798, shortly 
after the battle of Grauholz. 

Wichtrach, or Wichdorf, consists 
of two parts, Nieder (Lower), and 
Ober (Upper). Adjoining is the 
fine country seat of Neuhause; laid 
out about a century ago by Mr 
Steiger, of Miinsingen, and since 
highly embellished. Among other 
ornaments are busts of Haller 
and Gessner, supported by elegant 
pedestals, near the bank of the 
Aar. 



Munsvigen, where, according to 
tradition, once stood a Roman town 
not inferior to Aventicum. In 1550, 
Nilgeli, tlie Sclmltheiss of Berne, 
conquerer of the Rays de Vaut, 
built a castle here ; and, in 1571, 
another Schultheiss, named Steiger, 
once the mortal enemy, but subse- 
quently the son-in-law, of the 
former, erected another. 

AUmendingen. — On the right of 
the road is a liill named Huhulein, 
the summit whereof is crowned 
with ruins, which appear to belong 
to a very remote period. Some 
have supposed it to be a place of 
Druidical assemblage, or sacrifice, 
deriving the name AUmendingen 
from Allmeen, " community," and 
ding, " tribunal." However, it was 
formerly written Allwandingen. 
In the middle ages there was an 
old castle at this place, on the right 
of the road, where a combat took 
place between forty Bernese return- 
ing from Thun with booty, and 
some cavalry who were in pursuit 
of them. The former having en- 
trenched themselves behind a hedge, 
kept the latter at bay until succour 
had arrived from Berne. This 
village has been, in some degree, 
connected with the fortunes of the 
Schultheiss, or chief magistrate 
Steiger, whose monument is in the 
cathedral of Berne. While making 
his escape, he sat down upon a 
stone at the extremity of the vil- 
lage, awaiting a chariot which was 
preparing for him in the adjoining 
house, but was meanwhile recog- 
nised by a peasant of Amsoldin- 
gen, and conveyed safely to Thun, 
whence he proceeded to Unterseen, 
and made his way thence through 
the canton of Unterwalden, to the 
eastern parts of Switzerland, and 
finally, into Germany. 

At the village of Muri, which is 
very ancient, some Roman remains 
have been dug up : for instance, a 
bronze group of a female satyr 
with a child, found in 1660, which 



SWITZERLAND. — ROUTE 52. BERNE. 



289 



has been deposited in the museum 
of Berne, several medals, &c. A 
tomb has also been discovered at 
Mettlen, in this vicinity, which 
contained bones and a sabre. The 
name of the village is derived from 
some ruined walls that once stood 
here. 

THIRD JOURNEY. 

Berne, Bienne, Solothum, Neuf' 
chateli Moral, Aventicum, Friburg, 
Lausanne, Vevay, Bex, St Maurice, 
Martigny, Grand St Bernard. 

Hotels. Faucon, situated in the 
High street: this hotel is decidedly 
one of the best in Switzerland, 
and contains a great number of 
moderate-sized sitting and single 
bedded rooms, furnished with taste 
and elegance. Opposite is the iVeu; 
Faucon, where there is a sepa- 
rate menage to each floor. On 
the roof is a belvidere, from 
whence a fine view of the Alps is 
obtained. 

The terms at this house are very 
reasonable : dinner, one o'clock, 
three francs ; four o'clock, four 
francs ; breakfast, one franc ten 
sous ; bed-room, two francs. The 
original Faucon has undergone a 
complete improvement in arrange- 
ment and size. The Crown Hotel. 
The ancient town of Berne is 
situated on the peninsula form- 
ed by the Aar, a considerable 
elevation above the river. The 
approach from Thun is very 
agreeable and safe. A stone bridge 
has been built across the Aar, 
from the high embankment out- 
side the gate to the head of the 
High street; it was opened for 
carriages, on the 20th of October, 
1844. 

The city may be briefly said to 
consist of three parallel avenues, 
or lines of streets, increasing in 
number to six or seven near its 
western, and diminishing to one 
near its eastern extremity, and 



traversed at right angles by a 
number of smaller ones. The 
principal streets are watered by a 
rivulet, or canal of running water, 
which supplies a number of foun- 
tains, generally surmounted by the 
figure of some sacred or heroic 
personage. The houses are mostly 
built on low arches, forming long 
arcades, called Lauben (a provin- 
cial word), which run along both 
sides of the streets, and effectually 
preserve pedestrians from the rain 
and sun. The clock tower, caUed 
Zeitglockenthurn, contains a clock 
of very curious mechanism, the 
internal structure of which is wor- 
thy of examination. The striking 
of the hours is announced by a 
procession of small figures, the 
crowing of a cock, &c.; after which 
a steel figure, representing a war- 
rior in complete .armour, strikes 
the hours with a club. 

In 1528 the Reformation was 
introduced at Berne by Haller. 
Ever since the conquest of the 
Pays de Vaud, the territory of the 
canton has been fixed ; but most 
of the beautiful houses and the 
finest buildings in Berne have been 
erected since 1762. But aU the 
glory and prosperity of this canton 
was destined to undergo a lament- 
able reverse from the French Re- 
volution. In 1792 the Bernois had 
the fortitude to refuse the acknow- 
ledgement of citizen Barthelemi, as 
ambassador from the Erench Re- 
public during the whole of that 
year. 

The Cathedral, formerly the 
Church of St Vincent Over the gate 
is a very curious piece of sculp- 
ture representing the Last Judg- 
ment, by Erhard Kiing, or Konig, 
a Westphalian. The choir is 
adorned with some carving in 
wood, by Jacob Ruesch, and Henry 
Sewagen (which were damaged at 
the period of the Reformation), and 
some specimens of stained glass. 

The Public Library contains 
o 



290 



EOUTE 52. — ^BERNE. PART IV. 



thirty thousand volumes in print, 
and about fifteen hundred manu- 
scripts. 

The Musee, annexed to the li- 
brary, contains a great variety of 
objects connected with natural 
history, especially of Swiss birds 
and minerals. The skin of the dog 
Barry, long a faithful agent of the 
monks of the great St Bernard, in 
whose service he saved the Uves 
of no fewer than forty- seven indivi- 
duals, was stuffed after his death, 
and stands here in a conspicuous 
situation. There are besides a 
number of ethnological specimens 
from the Pacific Ocean, among 
which the principal are a collection 
made by the artist Weber, who 
accompanied Captain Cook in his 
voyage round the world. The most 
of these are from Otaheite. The 
portraits of all the chief magistrates 
of Berne, severarRoman antiquities 
found in various parts of the can- 
ton, bas-reliefs of different regions in 
Switzerland, and a variety of other 
objects, are also to be seen; includ- 
ing a model of the Trench Bas- 
tile. 

The Musemn is open to the 
pubhc on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and 
Saturdays, from eleven till four, 
but strangers are admitted on other 
days, by ringing the door bell, and 
giving the attendant a franc for the 
accommodation. A very respect- 
able and inteUigent man has charge 
of the museum, who has on sale a 
variety of dried plants peculiar to 
the Alps, &c. They are neatly 
placed in the leaves of albums ; the 
largest collection, containing 200 
specimens, cost 50 francs, a smaller 
one containing only twenty -five, cost 
5 francs. They form a pretty souve- 
nir of the country, and must be 
highly valued by botanists whose 
avocation prevents their visiting 
these regions. 

The Arsenal contains several fi- 
gm-es in complete armour. 

The Jardin Botanique is rich in 



plants, both indigenous and exotic, 
Alpine and tropical. 

Promenades. — The Terrasse is 
a handsome promenade adjoining 
the cathedral, shaded with fine 
alleys of walnut trees, under which 
are a number of benches. It 
is elevated 108 feet above the 
Aar, and commands a magnificent 
view extending to the Alps. An 
inscription on the parapet records 
the wonderful escapie of a student 
named Weinzapfli, whose horse, 
on the 25th July, 1654, being 
irritated by some boys, sprung over 
the wall into a garden of consider- 
able depth, with his rider upon his 
back. The horse was killed, but 
the student recovered, although his 
legs and arms were broken. 

About twenty-five years ago an 
unfortunate female, condemned to 
labour at the public works, whil^ 
employed in sweeping this t^r-^ 
race, sprung over the wall, being 
encouraged by the slender hope 
afforded by the escape of Wein- 
zapfli, but was killed on the spot ; 
two years later a thief, pursued 
by the mihtary, made a similiar 
attempt, but with no better success. 

There are also dehghtful prome-? 
nades along the banks of the Aaaj 
and around the fortifications, now 
cultivated and kept with great care. 

The original fortifications have 
been completely demoHshed, and 
converted into agreeable walks, 
those on the left of the Neufchatel 
gate are dehghtfully shaded with 
large trees, and command an e:sp- 
tensive view of the Olesland Alps; 
Those on the right outside the wall^ 
are yet unfinished ; here on the top 
of a high mound has been erected a 
belvidere. A dehghtful walk of 
about a mile and a quarter outside 
the Aarburg gate leads to the 
favourite rendezvous called the 
Enghe, much frequented, particu- 
larly on Thursday evenings, when 
the band of the town attends from 
four to six. 



SWITZEBLAND. — ROUTE 52. BERNE. PASSPORTS. 



291 



The Bears are kept in a den just 
outside the said gate (on the left). 
They are generally at home all day, 
but seem more disposed to see 
company, i. e. children, from two 
till five, when they receive almost a 
sufficient supply of cakes, bread, &c., 
to render an application to the 
pension list unnecessary ; indeed, 
the modern reformers of Berne, 
seriously contemplated cutting off— 
not their tails — ^but half their 
allowance. 

Passports. — This is another 
bearish subject, but must be at- 
tended to. Travellers who pre- 
viously had not determined to visit 
Austria, Sardinia, Baverice, or 
France, but who might now feel in- 
clined to do so, should obtain the 
signature, first of aU, from the 
British minister, and subsequently 
the "vise of the representatives of 
those countries he may have oc- 
casion to visit : those going into 
Italy should get the Austrian and 
the Sardinian ; the latter is neces- 
sary even if you only visit Cha- 
mouny, and can be had only at 
Lausanne, or from the Consid at 
Geneva ; both these gentlemen 
charge for their signatures ; the 
English and Austrian are given 
gratis. 

N.B. Travellers acting upon 
the advice givers by IMr Murray, 
should not forget to leave a franc for 
the commissioner, who is expected to 
run about in his service; it is rather 
to much to expect the innkeeper to 
do it. 

Baths. — There are houses on the 
banks of the Aar in which both 
hot and cold baths are to be found. 
Those on the island are also much 
frequented. The charge is one 
franc, including the use of linen. 

Post and Diligence office. — The 
departure of the diligences as under, 
also gives the departure of the let- 
ters for the same place, which must 
be posted half an hour before each 
departure. 



For Aran, Baden (Swiss), and 
Zurich, every morning at six 
o'clock, arriving at Zurich at half- 
past seven in the evening ; also at 
half-past twelve at noon ; fare, 12 
fr. (Swiss). 

Lucerne, every morning at five, 
and afternoon at half- past three, 
in twelve hours ; fare, 8 fr. 

Basle, at five in the morning, in 
fifteen hours, and half- past twelve 
at noon, in seventeen hours; fare, 
9 fr. The latter diligence reaches 
Bienne at half- past four in the 
afternoon, in time to take the 
steamer from Bienne to Neufchatel, 
Yverdun, &c. 

Basle, through Soleure, at half- 
past four in the afternoon, in 
twelve hours and a half ; fare, 
9 fr. 

Lausanne and Geneva, through 
Morat, at twelve at noon, arriving 
at Lausanne at eleven at night, in 
correspondence with the maUe-post 
from Geneva to Milan, arriving at 
Geneva at six in the morning; fares 
to Lausanne, 9 fr.; Geneva, 13 fr. 
75 rap. 

Frihourg and Payeme, at eleven 
in the morning, arriving at Fri- 
bourg at half-past two, and Pay- 
erne at a quarter-past four; fares 
to Fribourg, 2 fr. 80 rap. ; to Pay- 
erne, 5 fr. 60 rap 

Vevey, through Fribourg and 
BuUe, from the 1st of June to the 
31st of October, every morning at 
five o'clock, arriving at Fribourg 
at half-past eight, and Vevey at 
half -past four; fares to Bulle, 5 
fr. 10 rap. ; Vevey, 7 fr. 40 rap. 

Neufchatel, every day at half-past 
twelve o'clock, through Aarburg 
and Anet (Bains de Bretige), ar- 
riving at Neufchatel at six o'clock 
in the evening; fares to Aarburg, 
1 fr. 50 rap.; Anet, 3 fr. 15 rap. ; 
Neufchatel, 4 fr. 50 rap. 

To Geneva, from the 1st of May 
to the 31st of October, a diligence 
runs in nineteen hours, through 
Yverdun and Lausanne, leaving 



292 



ROUTE 52 — BERNE. DILIGENCES. PART IV. 



Berne at three in the morning, 
reaching Lausanne at a quarter 
before four ; Geneva, a quarter 
before ten at night. 

Thun, every morning from the 
15th of May to the end of October, 
at five o'clock and half-past ten in 
the morning, and four in the after- 
noon, in three hours; fares, 1 fr. 
80 rap. 

Letters are delivered and receiv- 
ed from seven in the morning till 
six in the evening, except Sunday, 
when it closes at five, but is open 
again between eight and nine for 
the accommodation of travellers ar- 
riving by the evening coaches, to 
claim their letters at the poste res- 
tente. The Swiss postage must be 
paid on all letters sent to England, 
Belgum, and Holland. Letters 
reach London in seventy-four hours. 
Market day is Tuesday, a very 
interesting spectacle to a stranger, 
in consequence of the great nmnber 
of country people then to be seen 
from the adjacent parts, habited in 
all their variety of costume. 

Environs of Berne, and fine Views 
of the Alps. — The promenades out 
of town are to I'Enghe, a quarter of 
a league distant, which is delightful 
in summer. From an open space 
at the entrance, there is the most 
extensive view of the Alps that can 
be seen in the environs of Berne. 

At the extremity of this last 
promenade there are two different 
paths by which we may return to 
the town ; one ofthem runs directly 
through an alley skirted with firs 
to Keichenbach, the ancient resi- 
dence of mirich and Eodolph d'Er- 
lach ; the first of these heroes com- 
manded his fellow citizens in 1291, 
at the glorious battle of Donner- 
buhel, against the Austrians and 
the knights, their partisans. The 
son, worthy of such a father, im- 
mortalized himself in the fields of 
Laupen. Free from ambition and 
vanity, this citizen, contented with 
the laurels he had gained, cultivated 



his lands at Reichenbach, till he 
was far advanced in years, when he 
was assassinated by his own son-in- 
law, of execrable memory. This 
murder was the consequence of an 
altercation relative to the debts 
contracted by this assassin, who 
was a gentleman from Underwald, 
named Rudenz. From Keichen- 
bach, passing through Worblaufen, 
we may return to Berne in the 
course of an hour ; or otherwise 
we may enter the city by the Pont- 
Neuf. Several picturesque views are 
met with in the course of these walks. 
Another road on the left leads, 
in the first place, to the forest of 
Bremgarten, in which there is an 
opening with a number of benches 
for the traveller's convenience, 
and a delightful prospect. From 
Bremgarten we may return to 
Berne by the high road. The 
heights of Stalden, and the fine 
alleys of trees that ornament the 
highway from Soleure to the left, 
and Thun to the right, ofier beau- 
tiful prospects of the city of Berne 
and its environs. Leaving the 
lower gate, and following the Aar 
on the left, we proceed to the sum- 
mit of the Altenberg, where an 
open space commands a view of the 
whole city of Berne, and the whole 
range of the Alps. There is a 
little wood at a small distance, 
and from hence we may go on to 
Ostermannighen, where a remark- 
able echo may be heard in the 
quarries. The rural beauties with 
which this walk abounds render 
it highly interesting. If we pro- 
ceed on to Dieswyl and Stettlen, 
we may have a sight of the bottom 
of the valley of Worb, with the 
Schreckhorn and the Wetterhorn, 
the Hochgant, and several othei 
mountains, towering above the 
chateau of Worb, and forming 
grand coup d'oeil. The philoso- 
pher's walk here leads to Donner- 
buliel, the situation of which is 
equally admirable. This spot is 



SWIT2ERLAK1). — KOUTE 53. ENVIRONS. 



293 



considered very interesting, as 
being the theatre of the battle in 
1291. It is also an agreeable pro- 
menade, as leading to a bathing- 
house ; when after passing by the 
side of the infirmary and traversing 
the wood, we may return to Berne 
through BoUinghen. 

To ascend the hill of Panthigen, 
in this district, it is necessary to 
be furnished with a guide. Upon 
the Emmenthal road there are 
many other villas extremely well 
situated, besides Worb; and the 
fields on the south are not less 
charming. The views of the Aar, 
near Wabern, and those of the 
city and the chain of hills forming 
the Jura, in which Hasdematt, 
above Solothum, is easily distin- 
guished, with the silver summits 
of the Alps, are extremely grand 
and striking. The Gourten is an- 
other mountain within an hour's 
walk of Berne, but the Langhen- 
berg is some leagues from this 
city, though both are remarkable 
from the beautiful sites and the 
magnificent views which they ex- 
hibit. The same may be said of 
the heights of Ramlighen and 
Burghestein, four leagues from 
Berne. On the other hand, the 
country on the western side of 
this city scarcely ofiers any kind 
of variety. ^ 

Monument near Berne, — This 
tomb is erected in the church of 
Hindelbank, two leagues from 
Berne, to the memory of Madame 
Langbans, who died in childbed, in 
the year 1760, the beautiful wife 
of the pastor of this place. This 
lady is represented as breaking 
her tomb with one hand, and with 
the other holding up her infant 
son. It is by the celebrated NahL 
Hindelbank is also remarkable for 
two castles and estate of Erlach. 

Hofwyl, so celebrated aU over 
Europe on account of the agrono- 
mical institutions of the late M de 
Fellenberg, is only two leagues from 



Berne. For some years past a num- 
ber of travellers have frequented 
this place to witness the extra- 
ordinary ameliorations which this 
respectable man has introduced 
into agriculture, and the machines 
of his invention. Several rustic 
fetes are celebrated here. An 
agricultural school for young far- 
mers was established here by tlie 
cantonal government, in 1808 ; 
and similar institutions were form- 
ed by two convents in Friburg and 
Thurgova, in 1807. 

Travellers . intending to leave 
Switzerland by Basle, should pro- 
ceed from Berne by Friburg, Ve- 
vey, Martigny, St Bernard, and 
return to Martigny across the Tete 
Noir ; to Geneva by Chamounix ; 
from Geneva to Lausanne by 
steamer, by road to Yverdun, 
lake of Neufchatel, Neufchatel, 
Bienne, Soleure to Basel. 

Intending to leave by Geneva, 
proceed from Berne to Soleure or 
Bienne, Neufchatel, Yverdun, 
Lausanne, Vevey, and continue 
same as first route. 

EOUTE 53. 

BERNE TO BIENNE. 

The distance from Berne to Bi- 
enne is six leagues. The road 
leaves Berne by the forest of 
Bremgarten, and passes by May- 
kirch to Seedorf. Near Seedorf 
is the small lake of the same 
name, and the castle of Frenis- 
berg, formerly a convent. Beyond 
this village, and four leagues 
from Berne, is 

AARBILRG, 

Inn. — The Crown. 
a small town in the Aar, which 
insulates it when the waters are 
high, so that the town is then ac- 
cessible only by a covered bridge. 
Roads from Berne, Solothurn, 
Bienne, Neufchatel, Yverdun, and 
Lausanne, centering here, tend to 



294 



KOUTE 59. — BERNE TO BIENNE. PART IT. 



animate the town. A strong old 
fortress, the castle of Aarberg, for- 
merly stood near the town on the 
south. Within half a league of the 
next town, a fine view may he ob- 
tained from the hill of Bellmonde. 
The ancient town of Mdau is situ- 
ated at the junction of a branch of 
the river Thiele with the lake of 
Bienne, and consists of one hand- 
some street. Near a fine bridge 
over the Thiele is the castle, founded 
so early as 1165, and once inhabited 
by the powerful counts of Mdau. 

Two leagues and three-quarters 
from Aarburg is 

BIENNE. 

Hotel, the Jura, very good, at the 
foot of the mountain of that name. 
Table d'hote at half-past twelve 
o'clock, 3 francs ; bed-rooms, from 
1 franc 10 sous to 3 francs ; hire 
of a carriage with two horses, 16 
francs a day. 

Bienne is situated at the base of 
the Jura, a short distance from the 
lake of the same name. The river 
Suze, formerly two canals, flows 
through the town. Its population 
is about 2,500. Everything in 
Bienne possesses an air of antiquity. 
The public fountains are very nu- 
merous, and, as at Berne, sur- 
mounted generally by some war- 
like or scriptural figure. The ma- 
nufactories are very considerable. 
Several Roman remains have been 
found in the neighbourhood of 
Stauden and Ttribei. Bienne pos- 
sesses an hospital, gymnasium, and 
public library. There is a grotto 
worth visiting in a rock above the 
town. 

Lake of Bienne and Island of St 
Peter. — The. island of St Peter is 
distant two leagues from Bienne. 
Travellers from Berne, whose sole 
object is to visit the Island, have 
no necessity to proceed to Bienne ; 
but may quit the road from Berne 
to Aarberg, and proceed by Wal- 
perschwyel and Teufelen to Gerol- 



fingen, a league and a quarter from 
Aarberg, and thence by boats to 
the island, which is distant half a 
league from the shore. 

The Lake of Bienne is three 
leagues in length, by one in breadth. 
In addition to the island of St Pe- 
ter, celebrated as the residence of 
Rousseau, it contains a small sandy 
islet, which has, since his time^ 
borne the name of Isle aux Lapins,' 
or " Rabbit Island," from his exploit 
of stocking it with those animals, as 
mentioned in his ' Solitary Wan- 
derer,' In the year 1765 Rousseau 
passed three months on the island^- 
which he describes as the happiesfe 
of his life. At the end of that pe*- 
riod, being expelled by the Bernese 
government, who rejected even his 
proposal of submitting to perpetual 
imprisonment in order to secure an 
abode, he took refuge iii England. 
The house was originally a convent, 
and is at present both an inn and 
farmhouse. Around three sides of 
the inner court is an open gallery^ 
the third for the proprietor, and 
the fourth is reserved for strangers. 
The court is shaded by a fine wal- 
nut tree. The apartment once oc- 
cupied by Rousseau remains in its 
original state. The walls are al- 
most covered with the poetical effu- 
sions of visitants, the album in- 
tended for them not having been 
found sufficient. On the summit of 
a hill which occupies the centre of 
the island, is a small forest of an- 
cient oaks, some of them twenty 
feet in circumference, which is in- 
tersected with avenues, and resem- 
bles an English garden. It con- 
tains an octagon pavilion, wherein 
the youth of the neighbourhood 
dance on Sundays, during the festi- 
val of the vintage, which is here 
celebrated in a brilliant manner. 
The directors of the hospital of 
Berne, to which establishment the 
island belongs, take especial care to 
protect this sylvan shade from the 
ravages of cultivation. The island 



SWITZEELAND.— ^ROUTE 54. BERNE TO NEUFCHATBL. 



295 



is a quarter of a league in circum- 
ference. Previously to 1485, it 
was inhabited by monks, whose 
convent was in that year suppressed 
by the Pope, and their domains 
made over to the canons of Berne. 
On the secularization of the chap- 
ter, the island was bestowed upon 
the hospital of that city. 

Pierre Pertuis — A very interest- 
ing excursion may be made to Pierre 
Pertuis, or Pierre Port. The road 
passes through the handsome vil- 
lage of Boujean (Boetzingen G.) 
and above the forges of Frainvil- 
liers, where there is a fall of the 
Suze called the cascade of Rond- 
chatel, and a view of the charming 
vaUey of Orvins. A quarter of a 
league farther are the forges of the 
Eeuchenette, beyond which, at the 
distance of a league and three quar- 
ters more, is Sonceboz. At this 
place is the cascade of Pissot, one 
hundred and fifty feet high. Half 
a league farther is Pierre Pertuis, a 
curious aperture wrought through 
a solid rock, whether by art or na- 
ture is uncertain. The following 
inscription, cut rudely on the rock 
above the passage, shows that it 
existed in the time of the Romans, 
and that the road which passes 
through it was made by them : — 

NUMINI AVG 

VM 

VIA CTAPERT. 

DV VMPATER 

II VIR COL HELV. 

The dimensions of the aperture 
are very irregular: its breadth 
varies between thirty and fifty feet. 
Its height has been variously stat- 
ed, some assigning to it forty or 
fifty, some only twenty feet. The 
defile, of which it forms the en- 
trance, and through which flows 
the Birse, is of a wild and extraor- 
dinary character. The road which 
passes through Pierre Pertuis forms 
two branches, whereof one leads 
through the Miinster Thai to Basel, 
the other to Bellelai and Parentrui. 



ROUTE 54. 

BERNE TO NEUTCHATEL. 

10 leagues : 30 English miles. 

Aarburg described in Route 53. 

One league and three quarters 
after leaving Aarburg, a bye road 
on the right through a wood leads 
past the village of Bruttelen to the 

Bains de Bretiege, 

many years the favourite resort of 
respectable Swiss families, attracted 
as much by its beautiful and retired 
situation and excellently managed 
establishment as for the heahng 
qualities of its mineral spring; and 
although little known to English 
travellers visiting Switzerland, I 
know of no place where a month 
could be more pleasantly spent, 
particularly after a ramble over the 
mountains, than at this lovely spot, 
situated on a moderate elevation, 
commanding the most extensive 
and beautiful views of the Jura 
Mountains, the Bernese Oberland, 
including the Wetterhorn, the 
Scheckhorn, Finster Aarhorn, the 
Eigher, the Monch, Jungfrau, Blum- 
lis Alp, Niesen, Doldenhorn and 
Stockhorn, and Mont Blanc, the 
lakes of Morat and Neufchatel, and 
the lake of Bienne, with the island 
of St Pierre ; the entire of which 
may be seen from elevations acces- 
sible to the most infirm in a few 
minutes, and are approached by 
numerous shady walks of endless 
variety. To those disposed to make 
excursions in this beautiful part of 
Switzerland, this spot will be found 
a cheap and convenient head-quar- 
ters, as Chaud de fond, Locle, 
Neufchatel, Morat and its battle 
field, and the interesting town of 
Aventicum, where still exist traces 
of its antiquities and former splen- 
dour, are il within convenient dis- 
tances, and may be visited either 
on horseback or in carriages, fur- 
nished by the proprietor of the 



296 



EOUTB 54. — NEUFCHATEL. PART IV. 



establishment on the most moderate 
terms. Tor those in search of 
health there are warm mineral baths, 
peculiarly beneficial in cases of ner- 
vous debility, hysterical and hypo- 
chondriacal affections, spasms, pal- 
pitations of the heart, paralysis, 
erysipelas, glandular swellings and 
various complaints, &c. &c., 

In addition to the mineral bath- 
ing establishment, M. Muller, the 
proprietor, has erected a new sepa- 
rate building for the Hydropathique, 
or cold-water cure, which since its 
commencement in May, 1843, has 
been attended with perfect success, 
as many persons who have received 
relief from the application, have 
left written certificates of the fact 
as an encouragement to others, as 
well as a satisfaction to the pro- 
prietor, who has spared no expense 
in the erection of a building in 
which invalids may avail them- 
selves of any of its various 
modes of application with ease and 
comfort. The baths are supplied 
from a source of the purest cold 
water coveyed through wooden 
pipes into the various bath rooms. 
The sleeping apartments devoted 
to the patients communicate in 
front with a garden, and behind is 
a gallery, from the centre of which 
a platform descends with the pa- 
tient (if unable to go down by the 
staircase) to the bathing apart- 
ments, remarkably clean and light, 
each of which is furnished with 
a different sort of bath, adapted to 
the various modes of application. 
An experienced physician is at the 
head of the estatjlishment, paid by 
the proprieter, who, in addition to 
his salary, receives a prize for every 
patient who quits the estabhshment 
cured. The charge for a patient 
taking the baths, medical advice, 
the occupation of an apartment 
and board, consisting qf plain but 
wholesome food and attendance, 
is only 5 French francs a day. 

From Bretiege a car will convey 



travellers to Anet, distance about 
three miles, to meet the diligence 
from Berne to Neufchatel, fare, \B^ 
batzj from Anet the distance is 
three leagues. 



NEUFCHATEL. 

Hotels. Des Alpes, facing the lake ; 
Faucon in the town. 

Here may be had the celebrated 
wine called Cortaillod. 

JVeufchatelis situated above the 
lake of the same name, on two 
small hills at the foot of the Jura, 
which are separated by the Seyon. 
The private edifices are not of 
striking appearance, with the ex- 
ception of those in the suburb. The 
street so called was constructed 
about seventy years ago, against 
the slope of the Jura, and in the 
centre of a large vineyard. The 
town is adorned with a number of 
fountains, surmounted by gigantic 
figures, which sometimes represent 
warriors of the fifteenth century, 
sometimes allegorical personages. 

The Cathedral, a Gothic building 
erected in 1164, by Bertha de 
Grange, spouse to Count Ulrich de 
Vinez. The statues of nine counts 
and four countesses, seen in the 
choir, form part of the monument 
constructed, in 1373, by Count 
Lewis. This temple, probably built 
on the ruins of an ancient chapel, 
was consecrated to the Virgin 
Mary. Its dedication as a collegia! 
church took place on the 8 th of 
November, 1276. It is at present 
appropriated to the Calvinistic 
service. 

The Hotel de Ville, a handsome 
massive structure, erected chiefly 
at the expense of the patriotic citi- 
zen, David de Pury, who having 
also founded several public schools 
and other charitable institutions, 
and opened new roads, bequeathed at 
his death a large legacy to the cor- 
poration. The house contains 



SWITZEBLAND. — ^EOUTE 55. TVERDrN. 



297 



portraits of four kings of Prussia, 
and it also possesses the more ap- 
propriate ornament of a bust of 
De Fury, who, from the fruits of 
his over industry, was a munificent 
benefactor to this liis native town, 
to the extent of 4,000,000 of francs, 
or 160,000/. British money. 

The Cathedral Terrace, wherein 
stands the sepulchral stone of 
William Farrel, the reformer, com- 
mands a magnificent prospect. This 
promenade, which is between the 
cathedral and the lake, is planted 
with trees, and extends to the hill 
of the Cret. There are many 
other interesting walks about Neuf- 
chatel. 

Environs. — The Abbaye de la 
Fontaine Andre, half a league from 
Neufchatel, the Eocher de la Ta- 
blette, near the summit of the 
mountain of La Tour, the Jardin 
de la Rochette on the east of the 
town, and the Jardin du Chanel, 
on the west, are among the most 
interesting objects of the environs, 
which are very picturesque, prin- 
cipally from their proximity to the 
mountains and lake. The fine 
bridge of Serriers is also worth a 
visit. 

A Steam Packet to Yverdun 
daily at half-past seven in the 
morning ; touching at Cortaillod, 
St Aubin, and returning'from Yver- 
dun at half-past ten in the morning, 
and from Neufchatel to Bienne at 
half -past one, returning from Bienne 
at half-past four. 



Fares in 1844 : 



Neufchatel to Yverdun . 

Nidau 

aienne 

Isle St Pierre 



1st cab. 2d cab. 

batz. batz. 
28 - 19 
28 - 19 
28 - 19 
18 - 12 



NEUFCHATEL TO CHAUDE DE FONDS 
AND LOCLE. 

Diligences to Chaude de Fonds 



twice a day, and omnibus once a 
day; fare, \2\ batz. 

ROUTE 55. 

NEUFCHATEL TO LAUSANNE BY 
STEAMER TO YVERDUN. 

Distance 13;^ leagues, 40 English 
miles, by diligence (corresponding 
with the steamer, which arrives at 
ten o'clock) in five hours and a half. 
Fare from Yverdun to Lausanne, 
24^ batz. This conveyance is in 
correspondence with the steamer, 
which calls at Ouchi at a quar- 
ter before four, on her way to 
Geneva, arriving there at seven 
o'clock. 



Neufchatel to Yverdun 
Yverdun to Echallens 
Echallens to Lausanne 



YVERDUN. 



Leagues. 



Inns. Hotel de Londres, Maison 
Rouge ; neither very excellent. 

Yverdun is situated in an island 
formed by two branches of the 
Orbe. It is an ancient town, con- 
taining 4,000 inhabitants, and 
flourished under the Romans, who 
called it Castrum JEbrodunense. It 
appears, by the ruins which sur- 
round it, to have been formerly 
much more extensive than at pre- 
sent. Near the town this river 
loses its name, and takes that of 
Thiele. The marshes which sur- 
round it. and other local observa- 
tions, prove that the lake formerly 
extended to a spot called Entrero- 
ches, situated below Orbe. Those 
marshes have been drained, by 
which means extensive lands were 
restored to agriculture, and consi- 
derable produce has enriched tlie 
industrious inhabitants of the 
country, who undertook and com- 
pleted the arduous task. 
o 2 



298 



ROUTE 56. — YVERDUN TO LAUSANNE. PART IV. 



Works of the greatest utility 
were printed at Yverdun so early 
as in the beginning of the seven- 
teenth century. The merchandise 
that is exported from Basle to 
Geneva into Piedmont and the 
south of France, through Yverdun, 
and the activity of the port, con- 
tribute to give the town a lively 
appearance. 

The Castle of Yverdun was built 
by Conrad, Duke of Zaringhen, in 
the twelfth century. It is a Gothic 
edifice, flanked by four towers. 

Yverdun is, however, principally 
celebrated for the philanthropic 
exertions of the late M. Pestalozzi, 
who devoted his fortune and life to 
the amelioration of the condition of 
his fellow creatures. The glory 
resulting from the exercise of a 
beneficent intellect, seconded by 
undaunted resolution, is of a far 
more perduring character than 
that traced in the barbaric annals 
of splendid despotism or military 
ruthlessness. 

Between the town and the lake 
there is a beautiful promenade, on 
a spot formerly covered with water, 
planted with trees, and whence you 
can see the whole length of the 
lake of Neufchatel. The public 
garden is a beautiful walk also. 
There are several country-houses 
in the neighbourhood, all of which 
are in a magnificent situation, and 
remarkable for the prospects of the 
higher Alps ; yet the most eligible 
positions stand above the town 
towards Grandson. The country 
that extends to the foot of the 
Jura in the proximity of Valeires, 
enjoys so mild a climate that 
flowers in full bloom are seen there 
till the month of December. The 
truly romantic landscapes in those 
parts continually bring back to the 
recollection of the observer the lays 
of Ossian and of Gessner. The 
bold and fantastic figures of the 
mountains, the various tints of 
their rocks, covered with clusters 



of trees and lined with ivy, the 
richest forests, the divers effects of 
light and shade, display on all sides 
all the beauties of picturesque 
scenery. That part of the Jura 
that rises above the beginning of 
the lake bears the name of Chasse-i 
ron, and is 3,625§ feet above ItB 
level. 

The most renowned prospect in 
the environs of Yverdun is that of 
the needle of Baume, whence are 
discovered the lakes of Bienne, 
Morat, Neufchatel, and Geneva ; 
the cantons of Yaud, Freyburg, 
and Berne ; Savoy, and the chain 
of the Alps from St Gotthard to 
the Mont -Blanc. 

After quitting Yverdun pass on 
the right. About half a mile 
distant is the Hotel de Bains, where 
a thermal spring supplies the 
natives with a pretext for quitting 
their homes in expectation of being 
made from well to better. After 
rather a short ascent, a fine view of 
the Alps in front, and the Jura on 
the right, is obtained; at 

Echallens. {Hotel Balance). The 
diligence stops half an hour, where 
those who can rough it may get 
something to eat, as no time is al- 
lowed at Yverdun for that purpose, 
neither can any thing be obtained 
on board the steamer, so take your 
breakfast (and let it be a right 
good one), before you leave Neuf- 
chatel. A rapid descent brings us to 

Lausanne, described at page 303. 

Travellers proceeding direct from 
Lausanne to Ouchi will leave the 
diligence and be conveyed to the 
steamer by omnibus. Fare, with 
luggage, 8 batz., or 1 fr. ; without 
luggage, 4 bats, or ^ a fr. 

EOUTE 56. 

BIENNE TO SOLOTHURN. 

Distance, 10 English miles. 
Hotel. The Crown, the best; 



SWITZERLAND. — ROUTE 56. ENVIRONS OP SOLOTHURN. 



299 



charges, bed, 2 fr. ; breakfast, 1 fr. 
50 c. Table d'hote, 3 fr. 

Solothurn is situated above the 
Aar, on the slope of a gentle hill, 
in the middle of a fertile valley. 
It is only half a league from the 
base of Mount Jura, and is tra- 
versed by a stream called the Gold- 
bach. The streets are tolerably 
broad, and adorned with several 
fountains. 

The Cathedral was erected by 
Pisoni, of Locarno, between the 
years 1762 and 1773. The archi- 
tecture is Italian; the front in par- 
ticular is built with considerable 
taste A staircase of great beadth, 
adorned at its base with jets of 
water, leads to the three principal 
entrances. Many fine altar-pieces 
by Dominick Corvi embellish this 
cathedral. In the treasury of the 
church are preserved an ancient 
copy of the four gospels, and some 
remains of the tents of Duke 
Charles of Burgundy. From the 
top a beautiful view is obtained. 
The Jesuits' church also possesses 
a fine altar-piece. The Town hou^e, 
conceived in a handsome style of 
architecture, and adorned with 
several pictures^. It contains also 
a bas-relief by Eggenschwyler, 
representing Cleobis and Biton, and 
a bust of St Nicholas Von der Flue, 
by the same artist. These two 
casts obtained the prize in Paris, 
in 1812. Several portraits of the 
chief magistrates, a fine staircase, 
and several Roman inscriptions in- 
serted in the walls of the porticos, 
are also worthy of notice. The 
dock tower is a singular building, 
situated in the middle of the town, 
which is thought by some to be of 
Roman construction, by others re- 
ferred to the epoch of the first 
kingdom of Burgundy. 

Environs of Solothurn. 

The Hermitage of St Verena. — ■ 
This place, which is half a league 



from the town, may be attained by 
several roads. The most agreeable 
is a convenient path winding along 
a rivulet, which is frequently cross- 
ed, and which sometimes exhibits 
interesting cascades. A small 
chapel, hewn out of the living stone, 
is a great resort of the peasantry on 
Good Friday; as is also the spot 
where, according to tradition, 
St Verena fastened herself to the 
rock in order to avoid the torrent 
which threatened to overwhelm 
her, and Satan, irritated by her 
virtue, attempted to crush her with 
large stones. Upon an eminence, 
situated on the west of the en- 
trance, is a monument dedicated 
to the Shultheiss Wenge. 

The Weisfiensiein is on the sum- 
mit of the Jura. This excursion 
may be undertaken on horseback, 
on foot, or in char-d-hanc. The 
view embraces a comprehensive 
range of mountains and glaciers, 
from the Tyrol to Mont Blanc. The 
Sentis, the Niesen, the Bliimlis Alp, 
Monte Rosa, and Monte Cervin, are 
among the most conspicuous ob- 
jects ; the sunrise, and sunset ef- 
fects are beautiful. Good accom- 
modation at the hotel on the sum- 
mit, where they make up thirty 
beds ; a table d'hote, baths, &c . 

The Hasenmait is another sum- 
mit of the Jura, more elevated than 
the Weissenstein, and attained in 
an hour's walk from it. In addi- 
tion to the objects just specified, the 
prospect hence includes the moun- 
tains of Alsace and Burgundy. A 
path which leads from Hasenmatt 
to Court, in the valley of Moutier, 
traverses that of Chaluat, chiefly in- 
habited by Anabaptists. Another 
path leads from Weissenstein by 
the village of Gansbrunnen (or St 
Joseph) to Moutier in three hours. 
Those who wish to proceed thence 
to Basel may, by crossing the Birs 
at Aesch, visit the battle field of 
Dornach. 



300 



KOttTE 56.— MORAT. AVENTICUM. TAUT IV. 



MOKAT. 

Hotels. Crown and Croix Blanche. 

The small but handsome town 
of Morat is three leagues from Fri- 
burg; it is of an antique appear- 
ance ; many of the houses are sup- 
ported by low arcades. It acquired 
much celebrity from the signal 
defeat of Charles the Bold, Duke of 
Burgundy, which is commemorated 
by the lime tree in the Place des 
Tilleuls, at Friburg. Morat was 
originally founded by the Romans. 
It contains an old castle, some 
handsome buildings, a distinguish- 
ed seminary, and a well-regulated 
hospital. Several Roman remains 
have been found in the neighbour- 
hood, especially at Miinchwyler, 
where some remains of ancient 
buildings may be traced in the 
walls of the houses. In the castle 
are six inscriptions, from which it 
would appear that this place was 
once a suburb of the ancient Aven- 
ticum, and contained a temple, dedi- 
cated to the goddess Aventia. On 
the wall of the church of St Mau- 
rice, near Morat, there is also an 
ancient inscription. 

Four years after the battle of 
Morat, the bones of the Burgun- 
dians who fell on that memorable 
day were collected into a heap, 
forty-four feet long by fourteen 
broad, and a chapel erected on the 
spot, called the Ossuary (or bone- 
house) of Morat. The chapel was 
rebuilt by the Cantons of Berne 
and Friburg, in 1755. 

The Lake of Morat is only two 
leagues in length, half a league in 
breadth, and its greatest depth one 
hundred and sixty-two feet. The 
Broy, which falls into it below 
Avanche, leaves it near Sugier, to 
fall into the lake of Neufchatel. 
Facing the toAv^n of Morat rises the 
hill of Vully (Mistelacherberg), 
from the top of which you enjoy a 
beautiful prospect of the town and 



lake of Neufchatel, of the lake of 
Morat, of part of that of Bienne, of 
the extensive marshes as far as 
Aarberg, and of the chain of the 
Alps. 

This monument of the defeat of 
their ancestors was destroyed by 
the Burgundian soldiers of the 
army of Brune, in 1798, when the 
French penetrated into this coun- 
try. The spot, which is about a 
quarter of a league from Morat, on 
the high road leading to Lausanne, 
was subsequently marked by a 
lime tree. A column erected by 
the Friburgers in 1822, may also 
be seen beside the road. 

AVENTICUM. 

Inns. Crown and Hotel de Yille 
The metropolis of ancient Hel- 
vetia is distant two leagues from 
Morat, and is, perhaps, the most 
interesting spot throughout Swit- 
zerland for antiquarian research. 
Although reduced to nearly the 
compass of one solitary street, 
which is on a considerable eleva- 
tion, and in the centre of the ori- 
ginal city, it is supposed to have 
once extended its precincts nearly 
to the lake of Morat. This town is 
probably one of the most ancient 
existing, at least if the presump- 
tion be well grounded which assigns 
to it a date 589 years anterior to 
the Christian era. Aventicum 
was in its most flourishing state, 
from 69 to 77, during the reign of 
Vespasian, to whom it is supposed 
to have given birth, but was sub- 
sequently ravaged, first by the 
AUemanni, and afterwards by At- 
tila. It is one of the first towns 
that became episcopal sees. The 
church of St Symphorien, now no 
longer existing, contained the tombs 
of twenty-two bishops. The ham- 
let of Donatire, at one extremity of 
ancient Aventicum, is said to owe 
its name to a temple consecrated 
to Domna Thecla, one of the most 



SWITZERLAND.— ROUTE 57. BERNE TO LAUSANNE. 



301 



ancient saints in the calendar. The 
remains of the city are very nu- 
merous ; the principal are the fol- 
lowing : part of the walls, fourteen 
or fifteen feet in thickness ; the 
angle of a very splendid building, 
still standing, which has on one 
side a half column of the Corinthian 
order, a pilaster, the entire formed 
of marble ; a magnificent carved 
cornice of white marble, nine feet 
long, four broad, and three thick ; 
part of the ancient port, with the 
outer palisadoes whereon it rested ; 
the amphitheatre, containing the 
den for the wild beasts ; subter- 
ranean aqueducts to the baths, the 
mosaic pavements whereof are still 
in part remaining ; some remains 
of a temple of Apollo, &c. 

In addition to those already men- 
tioned, there are some isolated 
columns and numerous fragments, 
many inscriptions in the walls of 
the houses and churches, &c. Se- 
veral busts of deities have also been 
found here, and placed upon the 
public fountains : many other in- 
teresting remains haverbeen placed 
in museums and private collections. 
The walls are supposed by some 
not to be Eoman, but built by the 
Burgundians in place of the origi- 
nal walls. The remains of an old 
tower stand near the entrance on the 
Motat side. A castle was built at 
Avenches, in 605, oy Count Wi- 
vilo, or Willi, from whom it de- 
rived its German name, "Wiflis- 
purg." The church is also very 
ancient; it is built on the site of a 
cathedral which appertained to the 
bishopric. The most remarkable 
inscription found here was one 
connected witii the subject of Mr 
Wiffen's poem, entitled ' Julia Al- 
pinula.' She was priestess of the 
temple of Isis, when the Roman 
general Csecinna captured Aventi- 
cum, who put her father to death, 
notwithstanding her tears and sup- 
plications. 



ROUTE 57. 



BERNE TO LAUSANNE BY ERIBUBG. 



Wangen 

Neueneck 

Friburg 



Leagues. 
1 
1| 



FRIBURG. 



Hotels. The Zaeringen (the 
best) ; close to the bridge. Charges : 
beds, 2 fr. to 3 fr. ; break%st, 1 fr. 
50 c. ; table d'hote, 3 fr. 

Friburg contains a population of 
8,533 inhabitants. The appearance 
of the town, especially as seen 
from the north, is very remarkable. 
It is built partly on the top of a 
precipice, nearly perpendicular, 
partly on the banks "of the river 
Sartine, which makes here a semi- 
circular bend, dividing the city 
into two regions, which are also 
separated by language — French 
being spoken in the lower, Ger- 
man in the upper town. In some 
of the central streets both languages 
are spoken. In one place the ac- 
clivity is so sudden that a flight of 
steps has been provided for com- 
munication, instead of a street. 
Many of the houses are built at an 
extreme height, on the very edge 
of a precipice, and provided with 
exterior wooden galleries project- 
ing over it. The new suspension 
bridge was erected in 1834. 

There are many gardens and 
even orchards within the precincts 
of the city. The gate called the 
Biirglenthore, or Pforte de Bour- 
guillon, is a very conspicuous ob- 
ject, being placed between two pre- 
cipices, and apparently half sus- 
pended in the air. The mill of 
the Motta is in a very remarkable 
situation at the end of the Pertuis, 
opposite the convent of Maigrange. 
The Cathedrale, or Eglise de St 
Nicholas, a plain specimen of the 
thirteenth century. It was begun 



302 



ROUTE 57. — BULLE. PART IV. 



in 1223, but the tower, which is 
the highest in Switzerland, rising 
to an elevation of three hundred 
and sixty-three feet, was not erect- 
ed until 1452. It was commenced 
on the arrival at Friburg of several 
councillors who had been confined 
by the Austrians in the prisons of 
Freyburg, a town of the Brisgau. 
The bells are esteemed the finest in 
Switzerland. Over the principal 
entrance is an extraordinary and 
well-executed piece of carving, 
which represents the Day of Judg- 
ment, with Heaven on the one 
side, and Hell on the other. Within 
the church are a number of tablets, 
inscribed with epitaphs, and a few 
old specimens of stained glass. 
Among the pictures are the ' Birth 
of Jesus,' and the ' Institution of 
the Lord's Supper,' painted by an 
artist named Sutter. Another re- 
presents the ' Martyrdom of St 
Meinard.' The organ is considered 
one of the finest in Europe. It 
costs 12 fr, to hear it played ; the 
hour is usually about two o'clock 

The Hotel de Ville is built on the 
site of the castle of the dukes of 
Zahringen. From the castle, this 
quarter of the city is called the 
Burgh. A trench separated the an- 
cient building from the rest of the 
city. In 1463 the tower was pulled 
down, and the materials thrown 
into the trench. Above it were 
constructed an arch, and a street 
called Pont-mouret. 

Promenades. — The Place des Til- 
leuls, or " Limes," so called from 
a lime or linden planted here in 
1476, on the 22nd June, it is said, 
the day on which Charles the Bold 
was defeated at Morat; the bearer 
of the news having presented him- 
self with a lime or linden branch in 
his hand. This venerable tree, 
which is twenty feet in circumfer- 
ence, was much damaged by a storm 
a few years since, but great care 
has been taken for its future pre- 



servation. Its lower branches rest 
upon a frame of wood, supported by 
four pillars, and there are seats 
round it which are a favourite 
lounge of the Friburghers. The 
Place d'Armes, called also the 
Grande Place, is the principal pro- 
menade without the city. 

The best situation for viewing 
the city and environs is the tower 
of the cathedral. 

The Hermitage de la Madeleine is 
about a league from the city ; it is 
a very curious excavation four hun- 
dred feet in length, which is wrought 
in a rock on the bank of the Sartine. 
It consists of a church surmounted 
by a tower eighty feet high, a kit- 
chen and a cellar, with chambers, 
porches, and staircases. This pious 
and patient labour was accomplished 
by John Dupre, of Gruyeres, as- 
sisted by his servant alone, between 
the years 1670 and 1680. He was 
drowned in 1708, while assisting 
some strangers across the river, 
who had come to visit him. 

PRIBUKG TO LAUSANKE. 

Leagues. 

To Villars i 

Nierwz 1 

Romont 3J 

Rue Si 

Carouge | 

Mont-Preveyne . . . . J 
Lausanne l| 

EOUTE 58. 

FRIBURG TO VEVET. 

Leagues. 

To Villars . . .1 

Eseuvilens . . 1 

Wippingen . . 2 

Bulle . . 1§ 

Vindens . . 1 

Vaurus . . 1 

Chatel St Denis . . 2| 

Vevey . . 2 

12 
BuLLE. 

Inn. Hotel de Ville. This 
house has been considerably 
improved under a new landlord, 



SWITZERLAND — ROUTt! 58. LAUSANNE. 



303 



who served his apprenticeship with 
Mr Stehelin, of theFaucon at Berne, 
and there is no doubt but travellers 
will find everything they can rea- 
sonably desire. 

This little bee-hive, as BuUe is 
sometimes called, is the depot for 
the celebrated gruyere cheese, 
which is made in the neighbouring 
valleys. 

Vevey described at page 307. 

LAUSANNE. 

Inns. Hotel Gibbon. — Yery good, 
and delightfully situated, com- 
manding extensive views of the 
lake and the Alps ; this establish- 
ment is now exceedingly well con- 
ducted by the widow of the late 
proprietor, M. Bachoffner. The 
charges are reasonable. Excellent 
bread. 

Hotel Faucon. This hotel has 
lately undergone a complete change 
for the better; I formerly^ con- 
demned it for being very dear ; 
I now as readily recommend it 
for cleanliness, civility, and mo- 
derate charges, which has taken 
place under a new proprietor; the 
view has also been considerably 
improved by the removal of some 
buildings which stood in front. 
Hotels, Hell-vue, Post, &c. 

Lausanne, the capital of the Can- 
ton de Vaud, is built upon three hills 
and the intervening valleys, about 
half a league from the shore of the 
lake of Geneva. The population is 
about 1 6,000 inhabitants ; the cli- 
mate is milder than that of Berne, 
but not less healthy ; the streets are 
narrow, steep, and winding ; but 
the situation is one of the most 
lovely that can well be imagined, 
from every part of the town being 
533 feet above the level of the 
lake. 

The ancient Lausonium, men- 
tioned in the Itinerary of Antoni- 
nus, having been ruined by the 
fall of the mountain of Tauretune, 
the inhabitants took refuge upon 



the heights round the hermitage 
of the Venetian Prodasius, who 
became a refugee there in the year 
500, from scourges that aMcted 
Italy. 

In the year 1456 this city came 
under the jurisdiction of Gundiock, 
first king of Burgundy. In 1479, 
the bishop and chapter of Lausanne 
formally cited the locusts to ap- 
pear before them, on account of 
the ravages committed by these 
insects. About the year 580, Ma- 
rius, bishop of Avenche, in Bur- 
gundy, transferred his episcopal 
seat to this place, which from that 
period took the name of Lausanne. 
This translation, with the relics 
of St Anne, a piece of the true 
cross, one of the ribs of Mary Mag- 
dalen, some hairs of the Virgin, a 
piece of the holy cradle, and a rat 
that had eaten the sacramental 
bread, drew a number of pilgrims 
to Lausanne, and contributed very 
much to the enlargement of the 
place. 

During the tenth century, the 
grandees of Burgundy held two 
diets at Lausanne. When the king- 
dom of Burgundy ceased and fell 
into the hands of Conrad, Emperor 
of Germany, he granted this place 
several privileges. Berne, Friburg, 
and Solothurn were often obliged to 
interfere between the inhabitants of 
Lausanne and their bishops. Dur- 
ing one hundred and fifty years be- 
fore the Reformation, Lausanne had 
exhibited a spectacle of the gross* 
est superstition and a dreadful de- 
pravity of morals. The church of 
St Anne was surrounded with 
houses of ill fame, and the clergy 
were not ashamed of taking up their 
residence in these places of prosti- 
tution. And, as similar disorders 
prevailed at Geneva and other 
places, the enormity of the evil pre- 
pared the remedy in the Reforma- 
tion that followed. When the Ber- 
nois declared war against the Duke 
of Savoy in 1536, the bishop of Lau- 



304 



ROUTE 68. — LAUSANNE. PART IT. 



sanne declared for the latter, which 
caused his ruin. After this period, 
the bishops of Lausanne resided at 
Friburg. In the year 1798 Lau- 
sanne was declared the chief place 
of tlie Canton de Vaud under the 
French government. 

The magnificent site of Lausanne, 
and the manners and address of the 
inhabitants in general, who have all 
the politeness, without the vices and 
unbounded luxury of great cities, 
joined to the facility offered here of 
acquiring a thorough knowledge of 
the French language, have contri- 
buted for many years past to make 
Lausanne a favourite spot with fo- 
reigners from all parts of Europe. 

The Cathedral, formerly the Eglise 
de Notre Dame, is considered one 
of the finest Gothic churches in Eu- 
rope. It was founded about the year 
1000, by Bishop Henri, and conse- 
crated in 1275 by Pope Gregory X, 
in presence of Rodolph of Habsburg, 
and many other illustrious persons. 
In 335 it was much damaged by 
fire, which reduced nearly the en- 
tire city to ashes. It was rebuilt by 
Bishop Boniface and his successor. 
It is situated on an elevation which 
commands the city. On the exte- 
rior wall are ancient inscriptions, 
now difficult to decipher. This 
church is built in the form of a 
Latin cross, and was surmounted 
by two high towers, one of which 
was destroyed by lightning on the 
24th May, 1825. The principal 
entrance is adorned with a variety 
of carved figures. The most re- 
markable tombs are kept carefully 
locked up. The most conspicuous 
is one of white marble, erected to 
Henrietta, the first wife of Strat- 
ford Canning, Esq. Above is the 
bust of the deceased, and below 
the following figures : Painting, 
Music, Study, Hymen, Fidelity, 
Maternal Affection or Charity, 
and Prudence. Hymen and Study 
are the workmanship of Canova. 
There are two inscriptions ; that 



which records the date is as fol- 
lows : — " Harriet Canning, nee 
Raikes, decedee le 17 Juin, 1817. 

Close to the terrace of the cathe- 
dral is an old building, called the 
Eveche, now a prison. The Hotel de 
Ville, formerly the episcopal palace, 
was constructed in 1454, and con- 
tains the usual public offices. At 
the bottom of one of the corridors, 
and on the door of the great hall, 
is an allegorical picture bearing the 
date 1684, and a Latin inscription, 
nihil silencio uiilius. 

The Chateau, situated in the most 
elevated part of the city, and close 
to the suburbs, was founded about 
the middle of the thirteenth cen- 
tury by Bishop John de Cossonay. 
It consists of a large square mass 
of building constructed in cut stone, 
flanked at the four angles with 
brick turrets, connected by an 
outer gallery that runs all round 
the edifice. The majority of the 
apartments have been new-modelled 
into public offices. The apartment, 
however, of the bishop is still 
shown, the ceiling whereof is in its 
original state. Here stood a chair, 
moving on roUers, which formerly 
concealed an aperture now walled 
up, whereby the bishops had free 
egress to the neighbouring con- 
vents, and other places, by means 
of subterraneous passages. It was 
thus that the last bishop, Sebastian 
de ;^Montfaucon, escaped from the 
castle in 1536, when it was besieged 
by the Bernese. Part of the court 
of this castle forms a small terrace 
shaded by acacias, which commands 
a magnificent prospect. This court 
is bordered on two sides by elegant 
buildings, erected in 1802, which 
may be considered as appendages 
to the castle. The College, or Aca- 
demic, a considerable building, was 
founded in 1587. 

The Cantonal Museum, among 
other interesting objects, antiqua- 
rian and scientific, contains the fol- 
lowing : a leg-bone of Cornelius 



SWITZERLAND. —ROUTE 58. LAUSANHE. 



305 



Lucius Scipio Barbatus, brought 
from Eome ; an antique lamp found 
at Nyon, very large and fine ; an 
Egyptian bottle, containing rose- 
water ; a salver, representing the 
parturition of Leda, with Mercury 
holding the two eggs ; Roman 
weights of red earth, found at Ye- 
vay j a glass bracelet found at Bex ; 
fragments of porphyry from Titus's 
baths at Rome, presented by Kem- 
ble, the tragedian. The mineralogi- 
cal department contains a variety 
of Alpine and other specimens, in 
addition to two collections— the one 
arranged according to the system 
of Werner, and the other according 
to that of Haiiy. Another collec- 
tion, consisting of Russian minerals, 
was presented by General de la 
Harpe. The zoological collections 
were sent from Turkey. The col- 
lected pictures of Mr Ducroz, ^ 
native of Lausanne, who spent forty 
years in Italy, with other paint- 
ings, have all been removed to a 
new building, opened under the 
name of theMuseeArland. Strangers 
are admitted to both museums 
every day. 

Promenades, ^c, — The principal 
are the terrace of the Casino, the 
promenade of Montbenon, going 
out of the gate of St Francis ; from 
Signal, a place about half a league 
above the town, near the forest of 
Sauvabelin ; near the country houses 
of BeUevue, Beaulieu, Vennes, and 
Chablieres ; from St Sulpy, a vil- 
lage on the borders of the lake. 
These easy promenades or excur- 
sions present a number of beautiful 
and striking situations. 

Baths are to be had at the hotel 
Lion d'Or, on the Place Riponne, at 
Boverat, Vallon, Chailly, and 
Ouchi. 

Steam packets embark and disem- 
bark passengers in a boat on their 
way to and from Geneva. From 
Geneva about half-past eleven in 
the forenoon ; to Geneva about 
half-past three in the afternoon. 



The fare in the best cabin from 
Lausanne to Vevay is two francs; 
from Lausanne to Geneva, six 
francs. 

Post office, Place St Francois, 
open from eight in the morning till 
eight in the evening. 

Letters for England leave every 
night at twelve o'clock; the box is 
open for unpaid letters till half- 
past ten ; paid letters are not re- 
ceived after eight o'clock. 

Booksellers. — The best at Lau- 
sanne is Mr Roviller, No. 1 Place 
St Francis ; he keeps a choice as- 
sortment of guide-books, maps, 
views, panoramas, &c. ; Galignani's 
and other newspapers and periodi- 
cals may be seen here. 

Diligences. — There are two con- 
veyances to Yverdun, at six in the 
morning and three in the afternoon ; 
the first is in correspondence with 
the steamer to Neufchatel and 
Bienne. By leaving Lausanne with 
this conveyance the traveller will 
reach Bienne at four in the after- 
noon, in time to proceed to Basle 
and arrive in time to take the early 
train to Strasburg the following 
morning; thus in thirty six hours 
one may travel from Lausanne to 
Mannheim. Conveyances also from 
Lausanne to Berne twice a day, at 
ten in the morning and seven in 
the evening ; to Neufchatel direct, 
at ten minutes before nine in the 
morning, and half-past six in the 
evening. 

Geneva, at a quarter -past four 
in the afternoon and twelve at 
night. 

Si Maurice, at a quarter past 
four in the afternoon. 

St Maurice and Milan every 
night at twelve. 

KB. Travellers intending to 
avail themselves of this convey- 
ance over the Simphon should, if 
possible, secure their places in Ge- 
neva where the diligence starts 
from. 

The New Bridge, or Viaduct, 



soe 



ROUTE 69.— LAUSANNE. ENVIKONS. PART IV. 



which spans the valley, is a noble 
structure, two hundred and eighty- 
eight feet long, and eighty-seven 
feet high. This splendid erection 
was begun in 1839, opened for foot 
passengers in July, and for carriages 
on the 15th of September, 1844. 
The new road communicating with 
it takes us to the centre of the town, 
avoiding those steep and danger- 
ous hiUs with which Lausanne 
abounds. 

Gibbon's House. — From the ter- 
race of the Gibbon hotel we over- 
look the garden which belonged to 
this celebrated man. Facing the 
left-hand summer-house of the 
hotel stands a large tree; this is 
said to have been planted by him- 
self : beneath is a circular bench 
.■whereformerly visitors seated them- 
selves, but strangers are now to- 
tally excluded from the garden by 
the present tenant, who took pos- 
session in July, 1 844. A portrait (a 
copy of the original in the Musee 
Arlaud) is hung up in the salle-a- 
manger of the hotel; it is for sale, 
the artist being a resident in Lau- 
sanne, replaces them as they are 
sold. 

English divine worship, according 
to the rites of the Church of Eng- 
land, is celebrated in the new cha- 
pel, near Ouchi, every Sunday 
morning at eleven o'clock. 

Passports. — Travellers intending 
to visit Chamounix before visiting 
Geneva should procure the vise of 
the Sardinian minister, who resides 
here ; fee, two francs. 

Ouchi (Inn, the Ancre) may 
be considered as the port of Lau- 
sanne. The tower here was built 
in 1160 by Bishop Landerick, of 
Dornach. From Ouchi to Cour, 
and the environs, the walk affords 
a number of the richest prospects. 
The same may be applied to the 
Cherry Farm, some time the resi- 
dence of the celebrated M. Huber, 
a pupil of Bonnet's. 

The banks of the Venoge, which 



takes its source in the valley of 
Eomain Moitier, are delightful ; and 
following the course of this rivulet, 
it leads into other valleys, here 
and there presenting groups 
of mountains, little cascades and 
copses, with cottages and villas, 
surrounded with gardens, vine- 
yards, &c. In the course of this 
promenade we meet with the vil- 
lages of Renens and Mezeri: from 
the terrace of the latter there is a 
fine prospect. At Chalet de la 
Ville, a house situated at a quarter 
of a league beyond Lausanne, in a 
meadow encircled with trees, a very 
extensive view may be enjoyed. M. 
Tisset used to pass whole months 
at this place. 

ROUTE 59. 

LAUSANNE TO MARTIGNT.BY VEVHT, 
VILLENEUVE, BEX, &C. 

Distance 9^ pastes. 



Lausanne to Vevey 


X ua tea 


Vevey to Roche 


. 2 


Roche to Bex 


• H 


Bex to St Maurice 


I 


St Maurice to Martigny 


'. 2k 



Post horses may be had at Lau- 
sanne, either en route for Italy or 
Geneva. 

Travellers who may be anxious 
to get on towards the Simpleon, or 
to Chamounix, wiU do well to follow 
the plan pursued on one occasion 
by the writer — by steamer to Vil- 
lemain, fare 3 fr, ; took the omnibus 
to St Maurice, 2 fr, ; share of a car 
to Martigny, 2 fr. : slept there. The 
traveller can either take his place 
by the diligence, which arrives at 
Martigny about eight in the morn- 
ing from Geneva, or proceed either 
to the St Bernard or over the Tete 
Navi, or Col de Balme, to Cha- 
mounix. 

The road to Vevey follows the 
lake, and passes through Pully, 
Paudex, Lutri, Villette, Cully, and 
St Saphorin. Entering Vevey, we 
cross a fine bridge, constructed 



SWITZERLAND. — ROUTE 59. VEVET. 



over the impetuous torrent of the 
Veveyese, which rises in Mount 
Molesson, in the canton of Friburg. 
The whole of this route is a con- 
tinued succession of enchanting 
and delicious views. To enj oy them 
it is advisable to leave Lausanne 
about four in the afternoon. 

Distance from Lausanne to Ve- 
vey about four leagues. Pedes- 
trians should avoid walking this 
road, as it lies between two high 
walls nearly the whole day. 

On the road to Vevey, a little 
without the suburb of Etraz, are 
the villas of Villamont and Mon- 
repos. In Villamont is a simple 
and interesting monument erected 
to the great Haller by his son, an 
oflBlcer in the French service. Mon- 
repos was once the habitation of 
Voltaire. 

On the high road to Berne is the 
cemetery of Pierre de Plan, the 
entrance to which is by a hand- 
somely planted promenade. At the 
farther extremity of this burying- 
place are seven groves, rendered 
more conspicuous than the rest by 
the pains taken to enclose them with 
iron railings. In the third of these 
is interred the tragedian Kemble. 
The monument bears a simple in- 
scription. Another conspicuous 
monument on the left of the en- 
trance, in marble, was erected by 
the Eev. Richard Allott, dean of 
Raphoe, in Lreland, to his wife and 
daughter. 

VEVET. 

One of the best kotek in Switzer- 
land is the Three Crowns at Vevey. 
The proprietor, Mr Monnet, speaks 
English, and is both attentive and 
polite to his guests. His new house 
on the edge of the lake is elegantly 
fitted up, and weU adapted for fami- 
lies. Charges, breakfast 1 fr. 50 c. ; 
table d'hote, 3 frs. at one o'clock, 
4 frs. at five o'clock. No extra 
charge is made for honey at this 
house, although so stated by Murray. 



From aU the windows thei 
beautiful views. Hotel Troi 

A diligence runs between Vevey 
and Lausanne daily. 

Vevey is a pleasant town, and 
very rich in vineyards. It is tole- 
rably well bmlt, on the side of the 
lake of Geneva, at the distance of 
half a league from the foot of the 
Alps, at the centre of a deep gorge 
or opening, formed by the Veveyse. 
The number of inhabitants is about 
4,800. There are many new houses ; 
a handsome hotel de ville ,- a public 
walk, with rows of trees ; a castle, 
rather a mean building ; a large 
pleasant market-place by the lake ; 
two churches, and a new college. 
The country is delightful, the air 
S(tft, and the prospects agreeable- 

The Cathedral is a little out of 
the town, and elevated above it. 
The date of its erection is 1498. 
It is surrounded by a planted ter- 
race, commanding a magnificent 
view. On the left, looking towards 
the lake, are the distant mountains 
of the Valais ; and still farther, 
the glaciers of the Pain de Sucre ; 
a part of the Grand St Bernard 
still farther ; on the same side, but 
nearer, are the Aigle, the Dent de 
Jaman, and others ; on the right, 
a variety of fertile hills, with the 
Jura in the distance ; and in front 
the lake of Geneva, the rocks of 
Meillerie, and the Alps of Chablais. 
The church contains two very in- 
teresting monuments ; that of Ed- 
mund Ludlow, one of the judges 
who condemned Charles I of Eng- 
land, with a long inscription ; and 
that of Andrew Broughton, who 
read his sentence of death. These 
two Englishmen, being obliged to 
flee their native land, sought refuge 
at Vevey, where they were pro- 
tected by the Bernese, who then 
held the jurisdiction of this coim- 
try, notwithstanding repeated ap- 
plications by the English Govern- 
ment for their surrender. 

There exists at Vevey a society 



308 



EOUTE 59 VILLENEUVE. PAET IV. 



of a singular description, called the 
Abbaye des Vignerons, which, from 
very remote times, have superin- 
tended the labours of the vintager. 
A deputation is sent by this society 
every spring and autumn to in- 
spect the vineyards of the commune, 
and award prizes whatever merited. 
Previously to the Kevolution, these 
prizes were distributed at a festival 
called the Fete de I'Abbaye des 
Vignerons, during which a proces- 
sion of a most extraordinary nature 
was led through the streets of Ve- 
vey. After an interruption of 
twenty -two years this old custom 
was revived on the 5th and 6th 
August, 1819. Pagan ceremonies, 
scriptural scenes from the Old Tes- 
tament, modern usages, were all 
blended together ; patriarchal and 
mythological personages appeared 
in appropriate habiliments. Pallas, 
Ceres, Vulcan, the Cyclops, Bac- 
chus, Silenus, aU with their proper 
attrijjutes ; Noah, the large cluster 
of grapes brought by the spies 
from Canaan, two groups, called 
the Vmtagers of Spring, and the 
Vintagers of Autumn, figure in this 
procession, which attracts stran- 
gers from all quarters. These rites 
appear to be of the most remote 
antiquity. 

The mountains rise from the town 
in the form of an amphitheatre, 
the lower part of them covered with 
vineyards ; half way up some cas- 
tles, campagnes, and farm houses ; 
above these, woods, fields, and 
meadows ; on the brow, thick fo- 
rests ; on the other side, across the 
lake, which is here three leagues 
over, are seen the dark rocks of 
Meillerie ; in the distance are the 
glaciers of the Valais, the mouth 
of the Rhone, and a fertile country 
with numerous villages. 

Steam packets call at Vevey on 
their way from Geneva at half-past 
twelve, and from Villeneuve at 
three o'clock. 

Two leagues farther, beyond Ve- 



vey, is the celebrated castle of 
Chillon, on which the well-known 
poem of Lord Byron, the ' Prisoner 
of Chillon,' has conferred additional 
celebrity : it is built on a rock in 
the lake, upon a peninsula, with 
scarcely room for a road between 
the castle and the mountain. It 
has three courts, with galleries, 
battlements, loop-holes, &c., and 
was very strong before the inven- 
tion of artillery, but it is entirely 
commanded by the mountain. When 
the Bernois conquered the Pays de 
Vaud, this and the castle of Yver- 
dun were the only places that made 
any resistance. 

Between Vevey and this castle, 
you pass through the parish of 
Moutru, consisting of about twenty 
farms dispersed about the hills 
among the vineyards. They make 
excellent cheese here, and the vin- 
tage begins sooner than in the 
other parts of the Pays de Vaud. 

Beyond the castle of Chillon is 
the new Hotel Byron, but closed 
during 1844. 

Villeneuve. — Hotel, Croix Blanche, 
not very good. A little town, con- 
sisting of one long wide street, situ- 
ated at the head of the lake of Ge- 
neva, near where the Rhone enters 
it. A conveyance attends the ar- 
rival of the steamers to convey tra- 
vellers to St Maurice. From Ve- 
vey to this place, the mountains 
are one continued cultivation of 
vineyard and orchard, with forest 
trees above them ; the grounds 
and habitations are disposed in the 
most picturesque manner, and there 
are frequent cascades tumbhng 
from rock to rock. 

We now quit the lake, and go 
south by Roche to Aigle, two 
leagues from Villeneuve. A little 
beyond this town are quarries of 
black, brown, and white, red, and 
red and white marble. 

Having left Villeneuve, we enter 
a deep valley, a league wide, with 
the Swiss Alps on one side, and 



SWITZEELAND. — ROUTE 59. BEX. 



309 



those of Savoy on the other, and 
traversed by the Ehone. The road, 
which is very good, lies almost 
close under the Swiss mountains ; 
these are generally covered with 
shrubs or trees, and their rugged- 
ness is finely contrasted with the 
extreme fertiUty of the valley, 
which is a chain of meadows as far 
as Aigle, where there are vine- 
yards. 

Aigle is a large bourg, built 
chiefly of black marble, which 
gives it a dismal appearance. The 
salines, or salt works, are at a little 
distance from the town ; the gra- 
duation house is nine hundred feet 
long ; the water is pumped up to 
the top of this building by fourteen 
pumps, which are worked by a 
wheel thirty -two feet in diameter ; 
hence it drips through a vast layer 
of thorns into wooden vessels at the 
bottom, resembling great brewing 
coolers, until it is of sufficient 
strength for the boUing house. 
Here, and in the other works at 
Bex, they do not make more than 
ten thousand quintals of salt, which 
is about a tenth part of the whole 
consumption of the canton of Berne ; 
the rest is procured from Savoy 
and France. 

Goitres, or swelled necks, begin 
here to be not uncommon, though 
neither so frequent nor so enormous 
as in the Valais. Idiots, called 
cretins, are also numerous. This 
disorder has a connexion with the 
goitre, and probably proceeds from 
.the same cause. The body be- 
comes dwarfish, the physiognomy 
ugly and unenlightened, and the 
mind is deprived of all its powers. 
In some subjects there remains no- 
thing but a slow and awkward mo- 
tion, with a vacant grra upon the 
countenance, to show that the cre- 
tin is a living animal. 

The mountains between Aigle 
and Bex are picturesque and highly 
romantic. 

Bex. — ^Inn : the Union and Hotel 



de Bains. A considerable town, and 
its fairs and markets are much fre- 
quented. It is in a large plain, 
abounding in corn and pastures ; 
the Avancon, a large and rapid 
brook, runs through it, and the 
ruins of a castle are yet seen on an 
eminence. 

The souterrains of the salt works 
are at a place called the Fonde- 
ment ; and the graduation build- 
ings and coppers are at Bevieux, 
upon the same construction as those 
at Aigle. The souterrains, dug 
three thousand feet within the 
earth, are extremely curious ; it 
will take an hour and a half to ride 
theret the same time to survey 
them, and an hour to return. 

Erom Bex it is only half a league 
to the entrance of the Valais, at the 
bridge of St Maurice. This bridge 
is of one arch, one hundred feet 
wide, and full seventy feet above 
the bed of the river. It abuts on 
the extremities of two lofty moun- 
tains, which have been rent or 
worn just as much as was neces- 
sary to let the Ehone escape here, 
as it does again below Geneva, at 
Fort I'Ecluse, between Mount Jura 
and the Vouache. The bridge 
separates the two sovereignties of 
Berne and the Valais. Entering 
the latter canton, passports are de- 
manded. 

At the end of the bridge com- 
mences the bourg of St Maurice. 
Inn, the Union. A miserable-look- 
ing, dirty village in the Lower Va- 
lais, on the Rhone, on the high road 
of the Simplon, between the Dent 
de Midi and the Dent de Morcles. 

There is a singular hermitage cut 
in the projection of a rock which 
overlooks the town. It contains a 
small chapel and garden, surround- 
ed by a frightful precipice ; half a 
league beyond St Maurice are the 
new mineral Bains de Lavey. One 
league and a quarter farther is the 
fall of the Pissevache, or the cascade 
of the Salanche, which descends 



310 



ROUTE 60. MARTIGNT TO ST BERNARD. PART IV. 



eight hundred feet on a sloping 
rock, and is one of the highest wa- 
terfalls in Europe. It appears to 
most advantage at a distance, where 
the higher falls can he perceived ; 
the best view of it is from the op- 
posite side of the Ehone. The last 
fall is about two hundred and seventy 
feet; just beyond is the torrent of 
the Trient, which issues from a 
cleft in the rock, where it has dug 
itself a bed. 

Martigny. — Inns. The Tour, Cygne, 
and Grand Maison. I put up at 
the Tour, and found it a very 
comfortable and reasonable house, 
well situated for starting in every 
direction ; the Tour also being the 
post house, the diligence stops here. 
Situated in the Lower Valais, Mar- 
tigny consists of two distinct parts, 
at a little distance from each 
other, the burgh and the village. 
This burgh is situated in the vaUey 
of the Dranse, which descends to 
the village of Martigny, near which 
it joins the Ehone. The honey of 
Martigny is considered the best in 
Switzerland. On a precipitous rock 
are seen the remains of the castle 
of La Bathia, which was inhabited 
by the bishops of the Valais untU 
the wars, and frequent inundations 
of the Dranse, obliged them, in the 
sixth century, to transfer their seat 
to Sion. The round tower is said 
to have been erected by Peter of 
Savoy, about 1260. Here may be 
seen the cathedral or church of St 
Marie, where there are some Eo- 
man inscriptions ; and the presby- 
tery or priory of St Bernard, which 
furnishes eight canons to the Hos- 
pice of St Bernard, and two to that 
of the Simplon. At this village 
the Ehone, after descending from 
the east, makes a sudden bend to- 
wards the north, nearly at right 
angles with its original course, 
which has, on several occasions, 
overflowed and committed great ra- 
vages ; in 1595 three houses only 
escaped destruction by the flood. 



In 1818 the Dranse overflowed, and 
caused a loss to the inhabitants of 
the valley of upwards of 300,000 
francs. To prevent, if possible, a 
repetition of such dreadful visita- 
tions, the ancient aqueduct, which 
had been allowed to fall into decay, 
was repaired in 1822. 

The route from Martigny to 
Milan is given in Coghlan's Neiv 
Hand-hook for Italy, complete in one 
volume. Should the traveller be 
unprovided, and require one, it 
may be had either in Lausanne, 
Vevey, Geneva, or Milan. 

Martigny, being situated on the 
high road between Geneva and 
Milan, leading also to the Great 
St Bernard and Chamounix, is a 
place of considerable traflSic. 

EOUTE 60. 

MARTIGNY TO THE GRAND ST 
BERNARD. 



St Brauchier 

Orsi^res . 

Liddes 

St Pierre . 

Canteen . 

Hopital and Dead-house 

Convent . 



Hours. 
2 
2 
1 
I 
1 

1 



Min. 




15 




SO 





Hours 8 



45 



The expense of a mule to St Ber- 
nard and back is twenty -four 
francs, a distance of only eight 
leagues, one day up, and down the 
second. A car cannot well go fur- 
ther than Orsieres, althoughj 
when the new road is completed, 
it will be practicable for carriages 
to St Pierre ; at the time I went 
over the road that was impossible. 
For pedestrians, the best plan is to 
walk to Orsieres, a distance of ten 
miles, or to Liddes, which is about 
half way. The following are the 
prices for mules from each place : 

From Orsieres 

Francs. 
To St Bernard only ... 6 
Up, and return same day . . ^ 
Up, and return the foUowingday 10 



SWITZEELAND.— EOUTE 60. MARTIGNT TO ST BEKNARD. 



311 



From Liddes 

To St Bernard only 

Up, and return same day . 

Up, and retiun the following day 

Orsieres and Martigny. 



Francs. 
4 
6 

7 



Mule . . . . 

Char-a-banc, 1 person 
ditto 2 ditto 
ditto 3 ditto 

Char-a-c6te, 1 person 
ditto 2 ditto 
ditto 3 ditto 



Francs. 
3 
4 
5 
6 
6 
7 
9 



The foregoing fares for mules 
and cars include the drirers and 
guides ; it will therefore be seen 
that by walking to Orsieres, and 
hiring a mule to St Bernard and 
back the same day, with a car to 
Martigny, wiU cost ten francs in- 
stead of twenty-four, walking only 
ten miles out of fifty. In this case, 
it would be the best plan to sleep 
at Orsieres the first night, start 
for St Bernard by five the fol- 
lowing morning, arrive at half- 
past ten, remain at the convent 
two hours, descend to Orsieres, by 
six, from whence to Martigny being 
down-hill, may be walked in two 
hours and a-half. 

The inn at Orsieres, the Mont 
St Bernard, and Col Ferret, 
is a large new house, and the pro- 
prietor is remarkable for low 
charges going, up, and high ones 
coming down ; dont leave your 
hills unpaid till your return. The 
Union, at Liddes, is reasonable and 
clean, but the accommodation is not 
very good. At the convent the 
dinner hour is half-past twelve : but 
travellers arriving at any other 
time are immediately served with 
refreshment if they desire it. 

The road from Martigny to St 
Bernard foUows the course of the 
Dranse, sometimes termed, in con- 
tradistinction to that which flows 
into the lake of Geneva between 

Thonon and Evian, the Valaisan 

Dransu Beyond the burgh of 



Martigny is the hamlet of La Va- 
lette : in this district are mines and 
ironworks. At the burgh of St 
Branchier, two hours from Mar- 
tigny, two great branches of the 
Dranse unite ; and three valleys, 
those of Martigny, Entremont, and 
Bagnes (so called from its once 
celebrated baths, which no longer 
exists). Through the last flows the 
impetuous Dranse, which, in 1595, 
totally destroyed the village of 
Bagnes, by an inundation, wherein 
one hundred and forty lives were 
lost. A similar inundation occurred 
1818, occasioned by the fall of 



m 

part of the glacier of Chedroz. A 
lake was thus formed which over- 
flowed, and defying every efibrt to 
check its progress, spread ruin as 
far as Martigny, where traces of 
its devastations stiU exist. A rock 
which commands St Branchier has 
on its summit a small chapel, arid 
the ruins of an ancient fort that 
protected the valley. Beyond the 
Dranse are the remains of the 
castle of Etiez. Proceeding through 
the valley of Entremont, the road, 
after an hour and a quarter, tra- 
verses the village of Orsieres. Or- 
sieres was formerly c©mmanded by 
the Chatelard, some traces whereof 
still exist. In the valley of Eerret, 
which leads to the Col, are three 
small lakes, bordered by glaciers : 
near the latter stands the chapel of 
Notre Dame de la Mege. A league 
and a quarter farther is Liddes, 
below which, in the depth of the 
vaUey, is the handsome village of 
Dranse. Half a league beyond 
Liddes is Aleve, where large quan- 
tities of beans, which the incle- 
mency of the climate does not suffer 
to come to maturity in the fields, 
are ripened by artificial means. 
The burgh of St Pierre, half a 
league above Aleve, is the last on^ 
the Swiss side of the frontier. The 
bridge here is called after Charle- 
mange, who is supposed to have 
had it erected. At St Pierre, in the 



312 



ROUTE 60. — MARTIGKT TO ST BERNARD. 



church-wall, may be seen a Eoman 
military column, erected by Con- 
stantine the younger. Beyond St 
Pierre, on the left, is a waterfall. 
The path then traverses a forest of 
larches, far below which is descried 
the course of the Dranse, and we 
reach what may be fairly called 
the Valley of Stones ; in this there 
is a house of entertainment called 
the Canteen. In an hour the H6- 
pital is reached, consisting of two 
small buildings. To one, intended 
for the refreshment of travellers, 
the domestic of the convent conveys 
bread, cheese, and wine, during the 
winter months. The other building 
is for the reception of such as 
perish on their way, who are laid 
out in their own clothes for inspec- 
tion. The air of these regions is so 
cold, and unfavourable to putrefac- 
tion, that a corpse can be preserved 
several years without being too 
much altered for recognition. 

Passage of St Bernard. — From 
the time of Augustus, the route 
of the Koman legions destined for 
Helvetia, Gaul, and Germany, 
was across the Great St Bernard. 
The troops of Aulus Caecinna, the 
captor of Aventicum, traversed it 
in 69, on their way to encounter 
Otho. in Italy ; an army of Lom- 
bards in 547 ; and others under 
Charlemagne, his uncle Bernard, 
the cruel Margrave Boniface, and 
the archbishop of Milan. During 
the wars of Charles of Burgundy, 
also, it was sometimes crossed. 
About the end of the ninth century, 
an army of Saracens coming from 
Piedmont passed the St Bernard, 
and took possession of St Maurice. 
Between the spring of 1798, when 
the French penetrated into Switzer- 
land, and the year 1801, more than 
one hundred and fifty thousand 
soldiers ascended this mountain. 
Between the 15th and 21st of May, 
1800, Bonaparte, then first consul, 
passed at the head of the French 
army of reserve, sixty thousand 



strong, with his artillery and 
cavalry. Sixty -four men were em- 
ployed to draw each piece of cannon 
from St Pierre to the height of the 
passage. This was the great army 
that defeated the Austrians at the 
battle of Marengo. A monument 
to the memory of General Dessaix, 
who fell in that engagement, is 
erected in the church of the convent. 
The Convent of St Bernard, 
founded in the year 968, is situated 
7j548 feet above the level of the 
sea, and is undoubtedly the most 
elevated habitation, not only in 
Europe, but over all the ancient 
continent. No chalet is to be met 
with at that height. It touches the 
boundaries of everlasting snow. 
In the height of summer, the least 
breeze makes the cold quite un- 
pleasant. The thermometer in this 
season descends almost every even- 
ing nearly to the freezing point, 
and below it if the wind be northerly. 
M. de Saussure observed it below 
Zero on the 1st of August, at one 
o'clock p.m., though the sun was 
continually piercing through the 
clouds. 

The little garden of the monks 
produces, with the greatest difBl- 
culty, by the end of August, a few 
stunted lettuces and cabbages, a 
Uttle spinach, and some sorrel ; aU 
the necessaries of life, as bread, 
wine, flour, cheese, dried fruits, and 
wood for fuel, are brought at a great 
expense from the neighbouring 
valleys. .. 

The ecclesiastics who live in the 
convent are from ten to twelve in 
number, and are regular canons of 
the order of St Augustin. Their 
active humanity saves many lives 
every year, and the hospitahty 
with which all strangers are re- 
ceived reflects the highest honour 
on the order to which they belong. 
Every one is treated with the 
greatest afiability. The sick find 
all the relief which medicine and 
surgery can afford them, and that 



SWITZERLAlfD. — ROUTE 60. ST BERNAKD. 



313 



without distinction of rank, sex, 
country, or religion. For all this 
care and trouble, nothing is de- 
manded of the traveller but to in- 
scribe his name in a book kept for 
the purpose : but few persons, who 
possess the means, leave the convent 
without putting a suitable contribution 
in the box placed in the church. 

This, like the other mountain 
convents, is allowed to make an 
annual collection iu the neighbour- 
ing parts of Erance, Switzerland, 
and Italy. 

From November to May, a trusty 
servant, accompanied by an eccle- 
siastic, goes every day, half way 
down the mountain, in search of 
travellers. They have with them 
one or two large dogs, trained for 
the purpose ; these will scent a man 
at a great distance, and find out the 
road in the thickest fogs, storms, 
and heaviest faUs of snow. Sus- 
pended from their necks are little 
baskets with meat and drink, to 
refresh the wearied traveller. These 
dogs are of a dusky fawn colour, 
mixed with white spots ; they 
never offer to bite strangers, and 
seldom bark. 

The fathers themselves also per- 
form this work of humanity. Often 
are they seen anxiously looking 
out, from the highest summits of! 
the rocks, for the storm beaten tra- 
veller. They show him the way, 
lead him along, holding him up 
when imable to stand alone ; some- 
times even they carry him on their 
shoulders to the convent. Often 
are they obhged to use violence to 
the traveller, when, benumbed with 
cold, and exhausted with fatigue, 
he earnestly begs that they will 
allow him just to rest, or to sleep 
for a few moments only on the 
snow. It is necessary to shake him 
well, and to drag him by force from 
insidious sleep, the fatal forerunner 
erf death. Nothing but constant 
motion can give the body sufficient 
warmth to resist extreme cold. 



When the fathers are compelled 
to be out in the open air in severe 
frosts, and the depth of the snow 
prevents their walking fast enough 
to keep the blood in circulation, 
they strike from time to time their 
hands and feet against the great 
staffs shod with iron, which they 
always carry with them, other- 
wise their extremities would be- 
come torpid and frost - bitten. 
Scarcely a whiter passes, however, 
that some traveller or other does 
not perish, or have his limbs bitten 
with the frost. In aU these cases, 
the use of spirits, strong waters, or 
sudden warmth, are highly per- 
nicious ; rubbing the body with 
snow, or immersing the limbs in 
ice, is the only certain remedy. An 
EngHshman of the name of Wood- 
ley, who accompanied M. Bourrit in 
his ascent to Mont-Blanc, was com- 
pelled to keep his feet in ice and 
salt for thirteen days ; another 
companion lost his sight for three 
weeks, and a third suffered a long 
time from having his hand frost- 
bitten. 

When the snow has covered any 
one to a great depth, the fathers 
take long poles, and sounding in 
different places, discover, by the 
resistance which the end of the 
pole meets with, whether it be a 
rock only, or a human body. In 
the latter case, they soon disengage 
it from the snow, and have often 
the glowing, heart-felt satisfaction 
of restoring to " Hght and life" one 
of their feUow creatures. 

Every year seven or eight thou- 
sand persons traverse the Grand 
St Bernard, and sometimes six 
hundred have passed in a day. 
In the year 1782, the same evening 
there were five hundred and sixty- 
one travellers, who consumed four 
oxen, twenty sheep, and three large 
sacks of flour. From 1798 to 1806, 
one hundred and fifty thousand per • 
sons have lodged in this convent ; 
besides which, for a whole year, it 



314 



EOUTE 61. — GENEVA. PART IV. 



had a regular garrison of six hun- 
dred men. In the year 1799, the 
Austrians climbed these momitains, 
and attempted to destroy the hos- 
pice and the poste. They fired all 
day from the rocks ; but the French, 
who had possession of the convent, 
kept up such a well-directed fire of 
musketry and small artillery, that 
the Austrians could not force it : 
the troops who were at St Pierre 
also hastened to the assistance of 
their brethren in arms, and soon 
put the Austrians to flight. A sin- 
gular spectacle this for the fathers 
to behold from the windows of the 
convent ! It was, doubtless, the 
first, and we hope the last, of this 
nature. 

Who would imagine that this 
solitude, rendered sacred by the e:^- 
ercise of all the virtues, should be 
subject to the depredations of rob- 
bers? Some thieves having entered 
the convent as guests, soon dis- 
played their real character by levy- 
ing a contribution on the good 
fathers; they, however, undis- 
mayed, feigned consent, and while 
arranging the terms of capitula- 
tion, their captain. Prior Murrith, 
followed by those brave soldats, 
his dogs, entered, and immediately 
at the word of command, flew upon 
these wretches, and would have 
torn them to pieces, but for the in- 
tercession of their master. Instead 
of plunder they asked for pardon, 
and were suffered to depart under 
an escort of the next travellers who 
arrived at the hospice. 

Prom Aoste the route to Turin 
or Milan may be taken. Those 
who do not wish to pursue the tour 
of Italy, may return from Turin to 
Lyons, by Chambery. 

FOURTH JOURNEY. 

EOUTE 61. 

Description of Geneva, and Lake, 
Baths of Leuk, Gemmi Mountain. 



GENEVA. 

Hotels. Ecu de Geneva. This 
splendid, well-arranged, and com- 
fortable house is now the best 
quarters in Geneva ; the situation 
is most lovely, the apartments 
clean, handsomely furnished, and 
most admirably arranged ; the 
salle-a-manger cheerful and ele- 
gant, and the dinners, the very 
thought of them, now stewed up as 
I am, in a close room in Loudon, at 
three o'clock on a fine winter's 
morning, makes me think with a 
sigh of the glorious 19th, 20th, 21st, 
22nd, and 23rd of August, 1844, 
when I enjoyed them: go and do 
likewise. The proprietor is M. 
Kohler. 

The Bergue is much and deser- 
vedly fallen off* since the above 
house has been established, and M. 
Eufenacht will be still more for- 
cibly convinced that extravagant 
charges, when no competition 
existed, will not be readily for- 
gotten. 

The Balance — This old estab- 
lished, respectable house is kept by 
a worthy man, M. Walbold, whom 

1 have known for many years ; it 
is cheerfully situated opposite the 
post office, in the place Bel Air. 
The charges are very reasonable : 
breakfast, 1 fr. 50 c. ; with meat, 

2 frs. Table d'hote at ona and 
five o'clock, 3 frs., including 
wine: the dinners here are also 
very excellent. The new malle- 
post to Paris, in thirty-five hourS, 
runs from this house. 

The Crown is well situated; but 
no respectable person should think 
of dining at the public table, it is 
the resort of rather queer pensioners. 
The remaining houses, commonly 
ycleped hotels, are third and fourth 
rate ; where the charges are as 
much and sometimes even more 
than the best houses. In the 
months of July, August, and Sep- 
tember, it is advisable to write 



SWITZERLAND. — ROUTE 61. GENETA. 



315 



some time before to secure apart- 
ments. I have given the names 
of the proprietors for that purpose. 
Geneva is situated partly upon a 
hill, eighty or ninety feet above the 
lake. The Khone divides this city 
into t wo unequal parts , and its waters 
are of a beautiful sea green. The 
air here is colder than at Paris, 
which, however, is twenty and a 
half degrees farther north. This 
difference arises partly from the 
elevation of Geneva, and from its 
vicinity to the snowy mountains. 
The population in 1834 was 27,177, 
of which number 10,162 were 
foreigners, 227 English, 52 Italians, 
933 Germans, 1,964 Erench ; the 
remainder were natives of the 
neighbouring cantons ; in 1844 it 
contained 30,400. 

Geneva is very ancient ; it was 
a city in the time of Julius Csesar; 
a strong place, and encircled with 
walls. Its position, howe-\er, did 
not secure it against the invasion 
of the northern nations who at- 
tacked the Eoman empire. It was 
frequently destroyed, built, and 
rebuilt, increasing in extent with 
almost every change. Under the 
lower empire, its bishops increased 
their authority in appearing to 
divide with the people, and thus 
enabled the latter for a long time 
to resist the neighbouring princes, 
who wished to subdue them. Their 
native love of liberty encouraged 
the citizens to make the greatest 
sacrifices in its defence ; and when 
the Reformation was introduced in 
1535, this change of worship gave 
birth to alliances which secured 
the happiness and safety of the re- 
public for at least two centuries. 
Yet Geneva, like other states and 
republics, has not been without its 
convulsions, and even during the 
Revolution, did not submit to the 
Erench without stipulating by a 
solemn treaty for its worship, its 
temples, its academical and reli- 
gious institutions, together with 



the funds annexed to them. Upon 
these conditions it was united to 
the French empire in the summer 
of 1798. 

In advancing to the city of Ge- 
neva from Erance, Mont Jura no 
longer serving as a curtain, the 
prospect opens to the admiring 
sight, displaying an immense lake, 
with a coast of eighty leagues in 
the extent, studded with towns and 
villages in the most agreeable 
manner, with good roads leading 
to them, a beautiful city, and a 
richly-cultivated country, all as it 
were beneath his feet. 

The first street in Geneva which 
presents itself runs with a gentle 
inclination towards the Rhone. On 
the other side of this river the 
ramparts command a view of the 
Petit Saleve. Above this eminence 
are seen the three smiling summits 
of Mont Blanc, with the Grand 
Jorasse, and the Geant, those 
gigantic heights, the bases of which 
rest upon Italy. 

Next to this street, which the 
traveller leaves to the left, is an- 
other very large one, distinguished, 
particularly on one side, by its late 
improvements. This street, en- 
larging as it proceeds, forms a 
square, embellished with a foun- 
tain, and leads to two bridges built 
over the Rhone. This square is 
remarkable on account of a decep- 
tion of the sight which takes place 
here, for that part of the city which 
is actually on the other side of the 
river appears exactly as if it was 
really at the foot of Mont Saleve, 
though the latter is more than a 
Erench league distant. Here the 
Rhone is divided into two streams ; 
and an old tower, which serves for 
a clock, was built upon the founda- 
tions of that erected by Julius 
Cassar to defend the passage of 
the river against the Helvetians. 

The square of Bel Air, near this 
spot, is the rallying point for the 
inhabitants of both quarters of the 



316 



ROUTE 61.- GENEVA. PART IV. 



city. The new street Corraterie 
leads to the square of the theatre, 
and to the Porte Neuve. This latter 
square is the most spacious, as well 
as the finest, in Geneva, on account 
of its handsome houses, and tlieir 
situation. This gate is of modern 
construction ; the bridges are hand- 
some, and ornamented with iron 
balustrades, and the ditches filled 
with fresh water. The bastions 
and works of defence about it are 
kept in the best order, and the ver- 
dure which the ground exhibits 
around this spot is truly delightful. 
The stranger entering Geneva this 
way is naturally struck with the 
beauty of the edifices which present 
themselves. The imposing fronts 
of the houses, upon a terrace ele- 
vated sixty feet, have more the air 
of royal palaces than of private 
houses. The theatre for comedies 
is another embellishment to this 
entrance into the city. Proceeding 
on the right towards the Menage 
and the Botanic garden, we enter 
the Treille, formed by a line of 
handsome houses, and arrive in the 
bastion St Antoine. The points of 
view from this spacious terrace are 
magnificent. The village of Cologny 
to the east, and the number of vil- 
las about it are beautiful. 

From the level which embraces 
all these objects, we descend to the 
Port de Eive ; then turning to the 
left, proceed along the street of the 
same name to the corn market, and 
from thence to the lake; here is 
the Port au boh, where a number 
of barques are always lying charged 
with fuel ; the dockyard in which 
they are iDuilt; and the slaughter 
houses upon the lake, which being 
kept uncommonly clean, have no bad 
efiect upon the salubrity of the air. 
The street called Rue du 
Rhone, extending in its whole 
length from this part of the city, 
terminates in the square of Bel Air, 
which, with excursions upon the 
lake, are, for strangers, among the 



most agreeable enjoyments to be 
procured at Geneva. The new 
quay is a fine promenade. 

From Bel Air we may pass under 
an arcade called the Mint, near to 
which two streets present them • 
selves ; that de la Cite,which leads 
to the upper part of the town, and 
that of the Rue Basse ; the centre of 
which is occupied by wooden houses 
or stalls, where furriers, hatters, and 
hosiers, are to be found : the shops 
attached to the houses at each side 
of the street are furnished with 
every description of London and 
Paris goods. 

The Place de V Hotel de Ville, though 
small, contains a number of pretty 
houses, and a fountain embeUished 
with a marble column. To the 
south, an open portico presents a 
view of the distant country. 

In addition to the lie, already 
mentioned, which is sometimes 
called the He du Rhone, there is 
another small island in the river 
(the He des Barques), which is 
tastefully laid out with walks, trees, 
shrubs, and benches, forming one 
of the prettiest spots in Switzer 
land. A monument to J. J. 
Rousseau ornaments the centre. 

The Cathedral de St Pierre, 
situated in the cour of the same 
name, and supposed to have been 
founded about the end of the tenth 
century, by Conrad the Pacific. 
It is surmounted by three towers, 
commanding a fine view of the city 
and its environs. In one of them 
is the musical clock of St Peter, 
and in another the largest bell in 
Geneva. There is also a silver 
bell, which is rung on the breaking 
out of a conflagration. The church 
is built in the form of a Latin 
cross. The modern front, which 
has been substituted in place of an 
ancient Gothic portal, demolished 
in 1749, is of the Corinthian order, 
and erected in imitation of the 
Pantheon at Rome. The interior 
presents but little matter for ob- 



S-WITZERLANI). - KOUTB 61. GENEVA. 



317 



tservation, except the tomb of Theo- 
dore Agrippa d'Aubigny, a war- 
rior and learned theologian, and 
friend of Henry IV of France. 
Another celebrated monument of , 
black marble, erected to Henry, j 
duke de Rohan, by his wife Mar- 
garet, daughter to the great Sully, 
was removed by order of the French : 
government, on 18th of February, j 
1794, but has been since restored. 

The Hotel de ViUe, situated near ; 
the most elevated part of the city, 
at one extremity of the Grande 
Rue, is an edifice of irregular con- 
struction. The northern and 
western fronts, rebuilt about the 
year 1618, are rather handsomely 
executed. The square pavilion, in 
which the latter terminates on the 
side towards the adjoining prome- 
nade, appears to have belonged to 
the ancient wall erected round 
Geneva at the end of the fifteenth 
century. The principal staircase, 
constructed about the year 1570, 
consists of a number of paved 
inclined planes without steps. 
This contrivance was to enable the 
members of the council (who were 
at that period generally far advanc- 
ed in years) to ascend on horsback 
or in sedan chairs. Here are a 
number of coloured alpine views, 
by Linck. 
Opposite to the Hotel de Ville is the 
Jrsenal, a building of similar ar- 
chitectiure, and probably the same 
date, supported by arcades. Here 
may be seen, in addition to the mo- 
dern, a variety of ancient arms ; the 
ladders on which the Savoyards 
attempted to scale the walls of Ge- 
neva; the armour of the duke de Ro- 
han ; a curious emblem of the union 
between the Protestant powers of 
Zurich, Berne, and Geneva; pe- 
tards wherewith the Savoyards 
Intended to blow up the gate of the 
city; handsome pistols taken from 
the Spaniards, &c. To see the arse- 
nal apply for tickets at the military 
bureau. 



The Hotel du Musee, 209, in the 
Grande Rue, is the principal build- 
ing devoted to scientific and lite- 
rary purposes. It contains a libra- 
ry, with a news room, museum, lec- 
ture rooms, &c. The library con- 
sists of several small apartments, 
in one of which literary societies 
sometimes meet. Strangers, on 
being introduced, are allowed to 
read gratuitously, and even to take 
books home with them upon proper 
application. The museum is open 
every day, from eleven till four. 

The Casino is a plain, but com- 
modious building. Here musical 
assemblies, balls, &c. are held. 

The Theatre, or Salle de Specta- 
cle, is agreeably situated in the 
Place de la Comedie, near the 
Porte Neuve. 

The Musee JRath, opposite the 
theatre. 

The Ecole de Dessin, or Calabri, 
situated at one extremity of the 
promenade called Le Petit Langue- 
doc This building contains a col- 
lection of pictures. Opposite to 
the Calabri is a small edifice in- 
scribed " Artihus Promovendis, " 
which may not improperly be de- 
signated the Salle de Sculpture, 
although it appears to have no de- 
terminate name. It contains a col- 
lection of models, casts, &c. 

The Maison dEynard, or Hotel 
Eynard, is a fine palace supported 
on Ionic columns, situated near the 
two last-mentioned buildings. It 
was built in the Italian style by a 
gentleman who resided for a long 
time in Tuscany, and is by far the 
most splendid private residence in 
Geneva. 

The Observatoire, close to the 
Place Maurice, possesses some re- 
markably good instruments for as- 
tronomical observations. 

At Geneva there are also a great 
number of institutions for the pro- 
motion of science and education. 

Promenades. — The principal pro- 
menades are either on, or adjacent 



318 



EOUTE 61. — GENEVA. PART IV. 



to, the bastions. In the Quartier 
de St Gervais, the Bastion Royal, 
or la Nouvelle Promenade, com- 
mands an extensive view of the 
Jura, the Vouache, Mont Sion, 
the Alps of Savoy, the Grand and 
Petit Saleve, the Voirons, the hills 
of Cologny and Boisy, which over- 
hang the lake of Geneva. Below 
is the new wire bridge, which con- 
nects the hamlet called Les Paquis 
with the Rue du Cendrier. At the 
opposite side of the Porte de Cor- 
navin is the Rue des Terreaux de 
Cornavin, a promenade bordered 
by a range of very handsome 
houses, which are seen to much 
advantage on entering Geneva by 
this quarter. 

Rue Corratorie is a favourite 
promenade. In this street, which 
forms the communication between 
the Place de Bel Air and the Porte 
Neuve, are several good shops. 
It terminates at the entrance to 
the 

Jardin des Plantes, established in 
1816 and 1817 by the celebrated De 
CandoUe. In front of the orangery 
are busts of six distinguished Ge- 
nevese botanists : Chabrey, Trera- 
bley, Rousseau, Bonnet, De Saus- 
sure, and Senebier. Four of these 
were executed by Italian artists — 
the two which are considered the 
best, are by Pradier, a Genevese. 

Between the Jardin des Plantes 
and the city moat is another pro- 
menade, that of the Bastion Bour- 
geois, which formerly extended 
across the space now occupied by 
the garden. It contains fine ave- 
nues of trees, forming some of the 
most agreeable walks within the 
precincts of the city. The garden 
is bounded on one side by a second 
exterior promenade, extending 
across. On the other it is limited 
by a third, the Rue de Sous la 
Treille, formerly called La Petit 
Languedoc At its eastern extre- 
mity the Hotel Eynard is seen to 
great advantage. An ascent on 



the left, from the Place de la Co- 
medie, leads to La Treille, the most 
celebrated of all the Genevese pro- 
menades. It is situated in the 
most elevated part of the city, con- 
tiguous to the Hotel de Ville. . So 
early as 1539 there was here a 
plantation of white mulberry trees. 
At present the promenade consists 
of an alee of horse-chestnuts, pro- 
vided with seats and a handsome 
railing. It commands a beautiful 
view of the environs of Geneva, 
and the mountains in the distance. 
A short distance beyond La Treille 
is another row of fine houses, 
forming one side of the Rue Neuve 
de Beau-Regard, and leading to 
the Place Maurice, formerly the 
Place St Antoine. This is a fine 
promenade, commanding an exten- 
sive prospect, especially of the lake, 
which is seen to the greatest ad- 
vantage from its further extremity. 
Near the junction of the Rue 
Neuve de Beau- Regard and the 
Place Maurice, is the new prome- 
nade of the Bastion du Pin. Near 
the descent from this promenade to 
the city is the Bastion de Hesse, 
whereon is built the new Peniten- 
tiaire. 

St Jean, an eminence to the left 
of the Lyons road, diversified with 
a number of elegant country seats, 
and intersected by paths leading to 
some distance along the course of 
the Rhone, and commanding fine 
views of Geneva and the surround- 
ing country, with the Alps, &c., in 
the distance. Here is situated Les 
Delices, a villa inhabited by Vol- 
taire, previously to his residence at 
Lausanne. Some of the paths form 
a sort of promenade, called the 
Tour de Sousterre, descending al- 
most to the bank of the Rhone. 
Opposite to St Jean, and on the 
left of the two rivers, is the hill of 
La Batie, which, near their junc- 
tion, is very steep, but easy of ac- 
cess elsewhere. Its summit is a 
large platform commanding very 



SWITZERLAND. — KOUTE 61. GENEVA. 



319 



agreeable prospects, and formerly 
crowned with a forest, which was 
hewn down by the Austrians in 
1813. On the edge of a ravine, 
near the most elevated part of the 
platform, looking towards Geneva, 
are the ruins of an ancient castle. 

Les Jardins, a large space of 
ground occupying the angle formed 
by the confluence of the Rhone and 
the Arve, and containing a number 
of kitchen gardens. An agreeable 
path, the Tour des Jardins, leads 
along the banks of both rivers, 
passing by their confluence at a 
short distance from the city. 

Plain Palais, a spacious plain, 
bordered on three sides with a 
double row of trees, and at times 
appropriated to military exercises. 

Zes Tranchees, occupying part of 
the fortifications. Here is an es- 
tablishment for the amusement of 
shooting with the cross-bow. A 
suspension bridge forms a commu- 
nication between this promenade 
and that lately opened on the Bas- 
tion du Pin, adjoining the Place 
Maurice and the Rue Neuve de 
Beau-Regard. 

Steam Packets leave Geneva 
every morning at half-past eight, 
and two, or half-past, in the after- 
noon, calling at various places en 
route to Villeneuve; the Helvetia 
iron boat, which generally leaves 
in the morning, is considerably 
swifter, and more elegantly fitted 
up than the other. She is 175 
feet long by twenty-one wide, 120 
horse power, totally free from that 
trembling movement so peculiar to 
steam vessels, and is propelled at 
the rate of twelve miles an hour, 
performing passages between Ge- 
neva and Villeneuve, a distance of 
eighteen leagues, including six 
stoppages, in four and a half hours. 
On the 15 th of August each year 
some alteration takes place in the 
hours of departure. 



Fares from Geneva : 

1st place. 2d pi. 
leagues, fr. b. batz. 
ToCoppet . . 2| — 1 25 — 5 
Nyon . . . 4 — 2 25 — 8 
Rolls. . . 6 — 3 50 — 13 
Morges . . 9 — 5 — 18 
Ouchi (Lausanne) 11 — 6 — 22 
Vevey . . 16 — 8 — 30 

Villeneuve . 18 — 9 — 35 

Reduced fares for those making 
excursions the same day. 

fr. h. 

Geneva to Rolle, and rettirn . .50 
,, Morges, ditto . . . 7 50 
,, Ouchi, ditto . . . 9 o 
„ Vevey & Villeneuve, ditto 12 

The boat arrives at Villeneuve 
at half-past one, and remains one 
hour, allowing time for travellers 
to visit the castle of Chillon. 

Pleasure-boats for excursions on 
the lake may be hired on the quay 
nearly fronting the Crown Hotel, 
with a man, at 3 fr. the hour ; a 
boat without a man, 1 fr. the hour. 

The Coach Offices are in the Rue 
du Rhone, corresponding with the 
Messageries Generales de la France, 
and Messagerie Royale in Paris, 
also with Milan, Lyons, and all 
parts of Switzerland. The hours 
of departure sometimes change, 
as well as the fares, but the follow- 
ing were the hours of departure 
in the autumn of 1844 : 

Diligences leave Geneva for Paris, 
corresponding with Laffitte, Cail- 
lard, and Co., every other morning 
at seven, by Lons le Saunier, Dole, 
and Dijon, in sixty hours. 

To Paris, corresponding with 
the Messageries Royales every other 
day, at six in the morning, through 
Nyon, Morez, Dole, and Dijon, in 
sixty hours; fares by both compa- 
nies: Coupe, 76 francs ; Interieur, 
64 francs, 25 cents; Rotonde and 
Banquette, 52 francs, 50 cents. 

To Lyons every day at ten in the 
morning, and every other day at 
six in the morning, in nineteen 
hours. 



320 



ROUTE 61 GENET A WATCHES. PAST IV. 



To Aix les Bains and Chambery, 
by Le Pont la Caille and Annecy, 
every morning at seven, in twelve 
hours. 

Eor Sallanches, St Gervais les 
Bains, and Chamouny, every morn- 
ing at six, in one day. 

For Milan, through Vevey, Lau- 
sanne, &c., every day at twelve, 
from the Quai du Rhone. 

For Milan, through Evian, every 
evening at five, from the Jlue du 
Rhone. 

N B. — This diligence only goes 
to St Maurice, where it transfers its 
passengers to that which starts at 
twelve, through Lausanne. 

Hackney Carriages are now estab- 
lished in Geneva at the following 
regulated fares : carriage with two 
horses, first hour, 5 francs ; second 
hour, 3 francs ; third hour, 2 francs ; 
carriage with one horse, first hour, 
3 francs ; second hour, 2 francs ; 
third hour, I franc. 

Saddle Horses, the day, 12 francs; 
half a day, 6 francs. 

English Divine Service is per- 
formed every Sunday morning at 
eleven, in the Hospital church ; in 
the evening at seven, in the hotel 
Bergue. 

Booksellers.— Messrs Briquet and 
Du Bois, and Madame Desrogis, 
both in the Rue du Rhone, are 
respectable establishments, where 
travellers will find an assortment 
of guide books, maps, &c. Messrs 
Manega, Freres, Marchand des 
Estampes, Place Bel Air, and Rue 
du Rhone, also keeps guide books, 
maps, &c,, in addition to an exten- 
sive assortment of panoramas, 
views, Swiss costumes, &c. &c. 

A new Suspension Bridge for foot 
passengers, connecting the Rue du 
Rhone with the Place Chevelu, was 
opened August 22nd, 1844. The 
hydraulic machine for regulating 
the height of the water is worthy 
notice. 

Baths. — There are several bath- 



ing establishments ; those on the 
quai, called the Bains de Bergues, 
are commodious and neatly fitted 
up; the charge varies from 1 franc, 
1 franc, 25 ; and 1 franc, 50. 

Cigars. — The best shop in Geneva 
for cigars is undoubtedly at Bon- 
net's, across the bridge, in the 
Place des Bergues. 

Tailor. - Travellers requiring an 
outfit after their ups and downs 
amongst the mountains, will do 
well to employ M. Fretz, from 
Stulz's, No. 62 Rue du Rhone. 

English Beading Room. — This is a 
comfortable apartment, situated in 
the Rue Corraterie. There are 
three daily and several weekly 
papers taken in for the use of sub- 
scribers ; the terms for a sitting i» 
half a franc. 

Boarding Houses. — These estab- 
lishments are numerous in Geneva* 
The following are considered the 
best : — 

Month. 
Plongeons . . , . 250 frs. 

Delices St Jean . . . 200 „ 
Baumgarten .... 200 „ 
Wolf, Pres de I'Ereque . . 200 ,, 
Brown, Servette . . - 180 „ 
Coutau, Plaine Palais . . 160 ,, 

Coffee Houses. — The best is the 
Cafe Bel Air, at the corner of 
the Rue du Rhone, opposite the 
hotel Ballance; there is another 
tolerably good in the Rue Corra- 
terie. 

Geneva Watches. — A great mis- 
take exists in England respecting 
these articles, all bad watches are 
erroneously supposed to be made 
here ; when, on the contrary, all 
that are made in Geneva, which 
cannot be purchased for less than 
200 francs, are of the best descrip- 
tion; the cheap trumpery articles 
which are sold in Paris and London 
under the name of Geneva watches, 
are made either at Chaud de Fonds, 
or Locle, above seventy miles from 
Geneva. From very particular 
inquiries I am enabled to recom- 



SWITZERLAND. — ROUTE 61. ENVIRONS OP GENEVA. 



321 



mend the following respectable 
houses, where strangers may de- 
pend upon being honestly dealt 
with. 

Messrs J. F. Bautte and Co., 
Rue du Rhone. 

Lacrox fils et Falconnet aux 
Trois Rois, Place Bel Air ; and 

Moulinie, sen., quai des Ber- 
gues. 

Money Changer, — Persons hav- 
ing occasion to exchange money 
will find Mr Dufour fils in the Rue 
Corraterie, No. 12, near the post 
office, a respectable and fair-dealing 
tradesman. 

Passports. — By a new regulation 
of the police, passports are no 
longer demanded at the gates of 
Geneva, or on quitting the steamers : 
but the masters of the hotels are 
required to demand them from all 
travellers lodging in their houses, 
to be forwarded to the police office, 
where they are kept at the disposal 
of the owners. The office is at the 
Hotel de Ville, open from eight tiU 
four, and from eight till nine in 
the evening, every day, except 
Sunday, when it is open from 
half-past eight till ten in the 
forenoon, and eight to nine in the 
evening. 

New Post Office, in Place Bel Air, 
is built in the Lombard style; it is 
open from seven in the morning 
till seven in the evening; on Sun- 
days from seven till two. The 
Paris malle post takes two passen- 
gers only; fare, about 75 francs. 
To secure places it is necessary 
(particularly in the autumn) to 
apply ten or fourteen days in ad- 
vance. 

Letters for England, Paris, Hoi 
land, and Belgium, leave every day 
at two o'clock, and arrive at eight 
in the morning. 

YoT Lyons, south of France, Spain, 
and Portugal, every day at twelve 
o'clock ; arriving between eight and 
nine in the morning. 

Germany daily, at half past eleven 



in the morning, arriving at eight in 
the morning. 

Milan, Venice, Tuscany, Greece^ 
and Malta, every day at half-past 
eight in the morning ; arriving be- 
tween ten and twelve in the fore- 
noon. 

Roman States, Mondays, Tues- 
days, Thursdays, Fridays, and 
Saturdays, at half-past eight in 
the morning, arriving on Sundays, 
Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, 
and Fridays, between ten and 
twelve. 

Swiss Cantons.— Y and, Neufcha- 
tel, Fribarg, and Berne, at half- past 
eleven, arriving at eight in the 
morning. The postage of letters 
may be paid up to a quarter of an 
hour before the time here specified; 
unpaid letters may be posted up to 
the hours mentioned at the prin- 
cipal office, Place Bel Air. 

N.B. — Geneva is the only place 
in Switzerland Avhence letters may 
be dispatched to England without 
paying the Swiss postage. 

Environs of Geneva. 

The environs of Geneva are so 
delightful, and comprise so many 
roads and walks, that there is no 
end to their variety. About a 
quarter of a league from Geneva, 
on the Swiss side of the lake, we 
begin to perceive the Mole, a high, 
mountain of a pyramidal form, 
covered with pasturage. To the 
right of this, that is, to the west, 
is the Petit Saleve, remarkable for 
the whiteness of the rock of which 
it is formed. Les Voirons is a 
woody height, extending pretty far 
to the left towards the east. In 
advance of these is the pretty hiU 
of Montoux. To the southward, 
between the Mole and the Saleve, 
are the mountains of Brezon and 
Vergi, above which Mont Blanc 
majestically rears its head. 

Between the Mole and the Voi- 
rons, also east of Mont Blanc, we 
perceive the Aiguille d'Argentiers, 
p 2 



322 



ROtTTE 61. LAKE OV GEKEVA. PART tV. 



and farther on, the rounded summit 
of the Buet. There are several 
places on the Swiss side, from 
whence two naked points are bare- 
ly perceived, which are known by 
the appellation of Dents d'Oche. 
They are near each other, between 
Meillerie and St Gingoulph. Erom 
thence turning to the north-east, 
all the mountains extending from 
Montreux and Chillon to Molleson, 
are seen. Molleson is situated 
above the Gruyeres, in the canton 
of Fribourg, more than fifteen 
leagues in a right line with Gene- 
va. To the west and the north, 
the horizon is circumscribed by the 
long wall formed by the Jura ; and 
the three highest summits of this 
chain are easily distinguished. 

Among other promenades is the 
Tour sous Terre, upon the summit 
of St Jean ; near the villa where 
Voltaire resided some time ; from 
hence we may descend through a 
narrow green alley, nearly over- 
shadowed, which leads to an open- 
ing of indescribable beauty. A 
similar view may be enjoyed after 
descending from the heights of the 
Grand and Petit Saconneux, 
through another umbrageous path, 
which has a sudden opening upon 
the country at large. 

To have the best view of Mont 
Blanc, it will be proper to quit the 
city towards evening, about an hour 
and a half before sunset, taking the 
road to Ferney by the Grand Sacon- 
neux, as far as the eminence, with- 
in a quarter of a league of this vil- 
lage, there to enjoy the prospect of 
Mont Blanc gilded by the last rays 
of the setting sun. 

The promenades upon the oppo- 
site bank of the lake are various, 
and some of them present a number 
of picturesque and even romantic 
views. 

Chateau of Voltaire at Ferney, 
When Voltaire purchased Ferney, 
one league and a half from Geneva, 
in 1759, it contained only eight cot- 



tages ; but at his death, in 1775, 
there were eighty houses and 1,200 
inhabitants. During this interval 
men of rank and talent from all 
countries resorted to Ferney. His 
bedroom is still in the situation in 
which he left it when he went to 
Paris, a short time before his death. 
The terrace of the garden commands 
a fine view of Mont Blanc. Omni- 
buses leave the place Bel Air every 
hour for Ferney ; fare, ten sous 
French. 

The environs of Geneva, as well 
as the neighbouring mountains, offer 
a rich harvest to the amateurs of 
botany. 

Lake of Geneva. 

According to M. de Luc, the 
lake Keman is 1,136 feet above the 
level of the sea ; according to M. 
Schuckburgh, 1,152 ; and according 
to M. Pictet, 1,134 feet. During the 
highest tides it never rises more 
than six feet above its ordinary 
level. Its length along the Swiss 
shore is eighteen leagues and three 
quarters ; but this same length, 
measured in a right line across from 
Chaiblais, is only fourteen leagues 
and three quarters. Its greatest 
breadth between the Rolle and Tho- 
non is upwards of three leagues 
and a quarter 

Besides the Ehone, forty-one 
small streams empty themselves 
into the lake. Excepting during 
some very severe Avinters it never 
freezes but a few paces from the 
shore, and between Geneva and the 
great sandbank. The Rhone, leav- 
ing the lake, divides into two arms, 
which, after forming an island, 
unite again a little lower down. 
Below Geneva this river receives 
the waters of the Arve, the sudden 
swell of which frequently forces 
back the waters of the Rhone to- 
wards Geneva. In 1711 these two 
rivers were in a state of agitation 
during sixteen hours, and consider- 



SWITZERLAND*— ROtTTE 61. GENEVA TO LAUSANNE. 



323 



ably increased the swell above a 
league beyond Geneva. 

The Leman has long passed for 
one of the finest lakes in the south 
of Europe, and is perhaps only ri- 
valled by that of Constance. Vol- 
taire used to say at Ferney ; " My 
lake is the first." 

On the side of the north-east, 
the east, and south-east, its reverse 
is encircled with mountains from 
four to five thousand feet in height. 
A little beyond Evian, the moun- 
tains of Savoy present a level, or 
a range of little hills, from two to 
six hundred feet high, behind 
which, to the south, a chain of 
mountains may be seen extending 
to Mont Blanc. 

The shore on the Swiss side 
rises gradually to an elevation of 
fifteen or sixteen hundred feet, and 
is supported by the barrier of Jura, 
which is from two to four thousand 
feet high. In some parts Savoy 
presents rather a desert prospect, 
as only a small number of villages 
are to be seen. On the other hand, 
the opposite shore has its mag- 
nificent gulfs, where numerous 
towns, chateaux, and villas, make 
a brilliant display of cheerfulness, 
opulence, and beauty. Eousseau 
has given us magnificent descrip- 
tions of the eastern part of this 
lake ; in fact, in the country be- 
tween Lausanne and Villeneuve, 
nature has displayed all that happy 
union of charming landscape and 
sublime mountain scenery, so pe- 
culiar to this part of Switzerland. 

KOUTE 62. 

GENEVA TO LAUSANNE. 

The distance is 7f postes. Leav- 
ing Geneva, we soon pass by the 
Pays de Gex, and arrive at the 
beautiful village of Genton, be- 
longing to the Genevese. A short 
distance farther is Versoy, where 
the French once intended to have 



made a port and built a town^ 
which was to have rivalled Ge- 
neva in extent and celebrity. 

As soon as we had quitted "Ver- 
soy, we entered the charming Pays 
de Vaud, and the first place of any 
consequence which we pass through 
is Coppet, about two leagues from 
Geneva. It is a bourg, inclosed 
with walls, in an agreeable and 
fruitful country, abounding in 
orchards and vineyards. Here the 
celebrated Madame de Stael once 
had an elegant chateau, beautifully 
situated. In going from hence to 
Nyon, we pass by Seligni. " ; 

Nyon is one of the four princi- 
pal towns of the Pays de Vaud. It 
is well situated on a hill, and 
partly at the foot of it, on the 
edge of the lake. There are yet 
some small remains of its ancient 
splendour under the Romans, as 
an old tower, one of the gates, 
several inscriptions, &c. Some 
beautiful mosaic pavements have 
been found here. On the outside 
of the tower is the statue of a Eo- 
man emperor ; and in the wall of 
the church a statue of a Flamen, 
under Augustus, much disfigured. 
The castle overlooks the lake, and 
on that side there is a charming 
walk, with a view of the lake in 
its full extent, and of the country 
to Geneva one way, and to Vevey 
the other, with the lofty and dusky 
rocks of Meillerie and St Gin- 
goulph opposite. The Burgundians 
frequent the fairs of Nyon, and 
often the weekly markets. 

Half a league from Nyon is the 
village of Prangin . The castle is 
a large modern building, hand- 
somely furnished, on a rising 
ground, looking towards the lake. 

After travelling two leagues we 
arrive at Rolle, a pretty town close 
to the widest part of the lake. It 
has many good buildings, and is 
delightfully situated at the foot of 
a slope covered with vines, from 
which excellent wine is made. The 



324 



SWITZERLAND BOUTE 63. BATHS OF LUEK. PART IT. 



castle is ancient, large, and spa- 
cious. Kolle has neither walls nor 
gates. The mineral waters near 
it were formerly in some reputa- 
tion. Opposite Rolle, in the lake, 
about half a mile from the shore, 
is a small island, formed by the in- 
habitants, on which to place a py- 
ramid to the memory of their 
countryman, General Harpe. 

From Eolle, the distance is one 
league to Allaman. The river of 
Aubonne falls into the lake near 
this village. Here ends the coun- 
try called la Cote, so famous for 
an excellent wholesome white wine. 
Seen from the lake, this country 
forms a fine amphitheatre of vine- 
yards and cultivated fields, thick 
set with towns, villages, castles, 
and country-houses. 

Another league from Allaman, 
is St Prez, and a good league far- 
ther is Morges. This is a neat 
town, and one of the four principal 
ones of the Pays de Vaud. It is 
close to the lake, in a plain of 
fields and vineyards. The castle 
is at one end of the town, and the 
church at the other. The latter is 
a handsome building, dedicated by 
an inscription over the great door 
a la gloire de Dieu, 1772. The pul- 
pit is placed in a recess, where our 
communion-table stands ; and the 
area is filled with rows of seats, 
facing the pulpit. Here is a har- 
bour large enough to contain a 
hundred vessels, with a quay and 
market-house. The country is 
charming, and full of vineyards, 
down to the lake. Leaving Morges, 
we pass Prevenreges, St Salphy, 
and a league and a half more, reach 
Lausanne, described at page 303. 

ROUTE 63. 

TO THE BATHS OF LEUK AND THUN 
BY THE GEMMI PASS. 

The Valley of the Rhone is the 
largest in Switzerland, being from 



112 Jura Alps, where it begins, to 
the lake of Geneva, where it ends, 
between ninety and one hundred 
miles in extent. About five miles 
from Martigny on the right are the 
Bains de Saxon. 

Sion, anciently Sedunum, the 
capital of the HautValais, is seated 
partly on the right bank of the 
Rhone, and partly on the river 
Sitten. This town is a very old 
Swiss bishopric, and contains seve^ 
ral churches, convents, and an 
hospital : the great church in the 
centre of the town is a handsome 
edifice, the hospital is a fine mo- 
dern building, and the convent 
belongs to the order of the Capu- 
chins. Each of the three hills on 
which this town stands is crowned 
by a castle, and above Sion, to the 
right, are two other castles, Seon 
and Montorges ; on the opposite 
side there is a church, convent, 
kitchen, and a few cells, all hewn 
out of the solid rock. Near Sion 
flows the Morges, which is the 
boundary between the Haut and 
Bas Valais. 

From Sion we proceed to Sierre^ 
seated on the stream whose name 
it bears ; is a pretty little town ; it 
has a church and some good build- 
ings. The road on issuing from 
that city enters the valley of Lou- 
eche, as that part of the great val- 
ley of the Rhone which extends 
from Sion to Brigg is at times 
termed, although the valley of 
Loueche, properly so called* 
branches off to the north of this 
valley. Beyond the village of St 
Leonard it crosses the Mendiripi, 
and afterwards reaches Sierre, dis- 
tant three leagues from Sion. Here 
reside the richest of the Valaisans. 
In some private houses Roman in- 
scriptions may be seen. The large 
fortress of Alt Siders and the cas- 
tle of Beauregard are situated on a 
rock at the entrance of the valley 
of Anniviers, on the opposite side 
of the Rhone from Sierre From 



SWITZEKLANB. — EOUTE 63. BATHS OP LEUK. 



325 



this town to the baths of Leuk the 
distance is above five leagues. It 
is usual to leave the carriage at 
Sierre, and employ mules. 

The village of Salges, and the 
village and mountain of Faxen are 
then passed, after which the path 
enters a pine forest, and emerges 
near the top of a steep acclivity. 
The passage, which is here hewn 
out of the rock, hangs over a fearful 
precipice above the river, or tor- 
rent, of Dala. This dangerous 
pass is called the Galerie. Beyond 
it are several fine Alpine pastur- 
ages, succeeded by a forest of larch. 
At the village of Inden this road 
unites with that leading from the 
burgh of Loueche to the baths. 
Beyond this is the village of the 
baths, called Baden. 

The Warm Baths o/'Zew^, reputed 
the most salutary in Switzerland, 
are found beneficial in a variety of 
diseases, and are of three different 
descriptions. The springs are 
twelve in number. They were 
discovered so early as the twelfth 
century, by some shepherds or 
hunters. John Mans erected a 
tower for their defence, and a sort 
of wooden entrenchment was con- 
structed to protect them from the 
bears and wolves, by which these 
solitudes were then infested. Bishop 
Sienen founded in this place the 
Church of St Barbre, and some of 
the Valaisan nobles erected houses. 
In 1501 Cardinal Schinner erected 
an inn, and effected other consider- 
able improvements about the prin- 
cipal baths. Some other indivi- 
duals, imitating his example, con- 
structed a square, adorned with 
porticos, which served as prome- 
nade, and a handsome street, all of 
which were swept away by an 
avalanche eighteen years after- 
wards. A recurrence of this fatality 
in 1749, and again in 1759, destroy- 
ed successively a part of the village. 
At present there are accommoda- 
tions for a hundred bathers. The 



buildings are of wood, with the 
exception of one, erected in 1817, 
entirely of stone. The interior of 
these wooden buildings is divided 
into four large square compart- 
ments, each large enough to accom- 
modate twenty persons. The two 
sexes bathe together, remaining at 
first half an hour in the water 
daily, but gradually increasing to 
ten or twelve. They sit upon 
moveable seats, and are furnished 
with floating tables, whereon break- 
fast is served, and books, dice- 
boards, &c. deposited. The fash- 
ionables of the baths form a 
society, to which no new comer is 
welcome, except those who are 
affected with some malady, and 
intend remaining some time at the 
baths, A wart is considered pass- 
ing genteel, and a scar takes the 
precedence of all ailments. At 
certain hours in the day strangers 
are admitted to contemplate the 
motley, and grotesque assemblage. 
The Gemmi. The passage of this 
mountain is perhaps the most 
extraordinary in the entire range 
of the Alps. The southern side, 
which is nearest to the baths of 
Leuk, is almost perpendicular. 
After starting from Sion, and ar- 
riving at the baths, the tourist, 
having provided a guide, proceeds 
towards the mountain, and. in 
about half an hour, arrives at the 
bottom of a path, 10,120 feet long, 
wrought by the Tyrolese between 
the years 1736 and 1741, which 
ascends in such a zig-zag manner 
that it becomes at every instant 
invisible. There is no danger 
whatever in the ascent, but persons 
subject to giddiness should descend 
with great caution. Many invalids, 
on their way to the baths, are 
transported across the mountain 
on a sort of bier by eight men. 
On arriving at this appalling pas- 
sage they turn their back towards 
the descending path, or have them- 
selves blindfolded. This perpendi- 



326 



ROUTE 64. — GENEVA TO CHAMOUNIX. PART IV. 



cular and winding road is, however, 
practicable for mules and horses. 
At about one half of the ascent the 
overhanging rock forms a sort of 
vault, called the Grandes Galeries ; 
at about two-thirds, a solitary pine 
may be observed rising over a fear- 
ful precipice. Some years since, a 
Valaisan had the hardihood to 
mount to the top of this tree and 
break off the loftiest branch. On 
the right, beyond the precipice, is a 
little square opening ; this leads to 
the dangerous path by which the 
summit of the mountain was for- 
merly attainable. After about an 
hour and a half the chalets of the 
Gemmi are reached, and a very 
magnificent view obtained from a 
sort of cabin or penthouse, near 
the top of a rock at the summit of 
the ascent. The highest part of 
the mountain, called the Daube, is 
about half a league further. On 
the east are seen two similar peaks, 
to which the mountain probably 
owes its name, which means 
'• twins," from a corruption of the 
Latin word gemini. Monte Rosa is 
visible from this elevation, and also 
the Weisshorn, the Arc du Zan, 
and all the southern chain of the 
Valaisan Alps. In the midst of 
this desert, as it may be termed, is 
the Lake of Daube, nearly three 
quarters of a league in length by 
one quarter in breadth, which is 
frozen during eight months in the 
year. From this point the tourist 
has his choice of returning to 
Loueche, or continuing his course 
to Thun, in the canton of Berne ; 
the route will be found both safe and 
agreeable. A little beyond the 
frontier, which separates the can- 
tons of the Yalais and Berne, the 
path begins to accompany the river 
Kander, which descends from the 
glacier of the same name. The 
path afterwards passes near some 
chalets, and begins to descend 
through a narrow defile. On issu= 
ing from this defile, the Valley of 



the Kander is perceived immedi- 
ately beneath. After a very steep 
descent, and the passage of the 
Nuschinen, which forms a hand- 
some cascade, the tourist finds 
himself ait the base of the Gemmi^ 
and within half a league of Kan- 
dersteg, the only village on the 
road through the Kander Thai, and 
which is considered to possess a 
good inn. At this village, distant 
six leagues from the baths, one of 
the vehicles called petitschars may 
be procured, with the assistance of 
which the entire journey from the 
baths of Leuk to Thun may be 
accomplished in one day, provided 
the tourist has started from the 
former place not later than five in 
the morning. Those who intend 
crossing the Simplon, will return 
to Leuk. 



FIFTH JOURNEY. 
ROUTE 64. 

GENEVA TO CHAMOUNIX. 

From Geneva to Martigny through 
the valley of Chamounix, including a 
description of the Mer de Glace, 
Glaciers, source of the Arveron and 
Mont Blanc, or vice versd. 

Travellers going to Chamounix 
should send their passports a day 
or two before to the Sardinian con- 
sul, (if not already signed by a 
minister of that country, either in 
London, Paris, or Frankfort) to ob- 
tain his signature, for which he 
charges four francs. A diligence 
leaves Geneva every morning at 
six o'clock. 

Those who travel in their own 
carriage will take from ten to 
twelve hours. At Anemasse every 
carriage, diligence, and luggage, 
undergoes a rigorous search ; in- 
deed it is sometimes extended even 
to the females. Here all travellers 
are required to produce their pass- 



SWITZERLAND. — ROUTE 64. GENEVA TO CHAMOUNi: 



327 



ports. If they are not signed as 
mentioned abore, the parties are 
sent back. 

Route to Chamounix, calculated 
by the time it would take a pedes- 
trian. 



Chesne 

Annemasse 

Nangy . 

Bonneville 

Vaugy 

Sionzier 

Cluses 

Balme 

Maglans 

Cascade d'Arpenaz 

Saint-Martin 

Passy 

Chede 

Servoz 

Pont-Pelissier 

Ouches 

Les Bossons 

Chamounix 



hours. 


1 
2 
1 
1 




1 





1 



1 




hours 1 7 



min. 
35 
40 
35 
20 
20 
5 

35 
40 
20 
10 
45 
45 
35 
15 
35 
20 
50 
40 



To go round by the baths of St 
Gervais will occupy about two 
hours more. 

About a league and a half from 
Geneva the road winds along the 
Arve, between the Saleve on the 
right, and the Voirons on the left, 
following the course of the Arve 
at a little distance. At the rear of 
the former mountain may be seen 
the castle of Mornay, and further 
on, the hill and castle of Esery. 
Bej'ond Vetra, nearly two leagues 
from Geneva, a torrent is crossed, 
called the ;Menoge, A road, prac- 
ticable only for small carriages, 
branches off on the right, which 
leads to La Roche, and thence to 
Annecy. After Vetra are Mangy 
and Contamine. At the latter 
village, distance three leagues from 
Geneva, is an extensive cotton fac- 
tory. The valley of Les Bornes 
is seen sloping towards the river. 
A.- little beyond Contamine, and 
upon an elevated position on the 
left, which forms part of the base 
of the Mole, are the ruins of the 
seignoral castle of Faucigny. At 



Bonneville the diligence stops for 
half an hour. 

Bonneville, the capital of the pro- 
vince of Faucigny, is a small town, 
situated on the Arve, near the foot 
of the Mole, and distant five leagues 
from Geneva. It contains a public 
square, in which is a planted pro- 
menade. The prison is built on a 
considerable eminence. Here guides 
to the Mole may be provided. 

At Bonneville the Arve is cross- 
ed by a bridge of stone. The road 
enters the fine valley of Cluses, the 
Brezon on the right, and the Mole 
on the left. On the right is also 
seen the church of Vergi, in an ele- 
vated situation ; on the left, the 
fields about Martigny, commanded 
by mountains which separate the 
valley Cluses from that of Taninge. 
Near the pretty hamlet of Vaugy 
is seen the junction of the Giffre 
with the Arve. The former is a 
torrent issuing from the valley of 
Taninge. Near Sionzier, on the 
right, are the mountain and valley 
of Le Roposoir and the ruined cas- 
tie of Mussel. A new church was 
erecting in this valley in the au- 
tumn of 1837. 

The time requisite to ascend 
from Bonneville to the summit of 
the Brezon is about three hours 
and a half; and to descend from 
the village of Brezon to Cluses, by 
Saxonet and Sionzier, three hours. 

The town of Cluses is romanti- 
cally situated on the Arve, and dis- 
tant eight leagues from Geneva. 
An ascent of a few minutes from 
the entrance of the bridge of Clu- 
ses leads by a rockey path to a very 
interesting point of view. The 
road again continues to wind along 
the Arve, which is crossed at Clu- 
ses, through the valley of Maglans. 

About a league from Cluses, high 
up in the mountain, is the cavern 
of Balme. The cavern is interest- 
ing, but should not be visited with- 
out a guide. The expense of visit- 
ing the cavern is three francs. 



328 



ROUTE 64. CHAMOUNIX. PART IV. 



There are several cascades, called 
Nants, in this part of the valley ; 
the principal is the Arpenach, 
which is eight hundred feet high. 
At a sort of grotto at the foot of 
the Balme, are three diminutive 
pieces of artillery, to produce an 
echo; a trifle is expected by the 
artillery woman. Travellers stop- 
ing for the night at St Martin, will 
find the accommodation at the 
Hotel du Mont Blanc good, and the 
situation more agreeable than at 
Sallenches. They thus avoid the 
trouble of returning to St Martin, 
in order to continue their journey 
to Chamounix by way of Passy, 
which is the ordinary route. Those 
who intend visiting the celebrated 
baths of St Gervais, on their way 
to Chamounix, need not return to 
St Martin. From the bridge and 
balcony of the hotel, a magnificent 
view of the chain of Mont Blanc 
is obtained, perhaps the finest in 
the whole line of country. 

The town of Sallenches, on the 
small river of the same name, is in 
a very picturesque situation, and 
distant about twelve leagues from 
Geneva. It is of considerable an- 
tiquity, and possesses a chapter of 
canons and some convents. Per- 
sons having their own carriage, 
can leave it either at St Martin or 
at Sallenches. 

If a char-d-banche employed from 
St Martin, or Sallenches, to Cha- 
mounix, the charge is sixteen francs, 
and drink-money. Persons who 
sleep here should depart very early, 
in order, if possible, to ascend 
Montenvert immediately on arriv- 
ing at Chamounix. Each of the 
roads (by Passy, or St Gervais) is 
interesting. The village of Passy 
is at some distance from the road, 
but the antiquarian will be inclined 
to visit it m order to see two ex- 
voto inscriptions on the portal of the 
church, which were found while it 
was building. One is supposed to 
represent a priest returning thanks 



to Mars on being appointed trea- 
surer. The other represents a 
governor returning thanks to the 
same deity, for having delivered his 
son from some imminent danger. 

This region was the refuge of the 
Roman nobles who were obliged to 
flee during the revolutions of their 
country. Many vestiges of exten- 
sive buildings are found in the vine- 
yards of Passy. 

The road to St Gervais, which 
is about a league and a half from 
Sallenches, after continuing to some 
distance along the Arve, crosses 
the Bon Nant, a rapid torrent. A 
by-road, leading through a roman- 
tic glen on the right, conducts to 
the mineral bathing establishment 
to which that village owes its cele- 
brity. These baths are a favourite 
resort of strangers, and afford sepa- 
rate accomodation to the higher 
and middle classes of residents. At 
a short distance behind the princi- 
pal building is a fine cascade, the 
Pall of the Bon Nant. According 
to the analysis of Dr Odier, the 
waters of St Gervais produce the 
same effects as those of Schinznacht 
and Leuk. They are highly recom- 
mended by the Parisian physicians 
in cases of chronic eruptions, and 
have also been found serviceable in 
abdominal obstructions, rheuma- 
tism, and weaknesses consequent on 
paralytic affections. The village of 
St Gervais is elevated to a consi- 
derable height above the Arve. 
There is a route from St Gervais, 
by the Allee Blanche, to Cour- 
mayeur. A league beyond St Ger- 
vais is Bionnay, where the road to 
the Allee Blanche is joined by a 
path on the left, which unites it 
with that of Chamounix. 

Having returned to the high 
road, the traveller continues his 
course along the margin of an ex- 
tensive plain, supposed to have 
been once the bed of a lake. Near 
the village of Chede the two roads 
unite, which lead through Passy 



SWITZERLAND. — ROUTE 64. CHAMOUNIX. 



329 



and St Gervais. After ascending 
the mountain of Chede for about 
half-an-hour, the road passes the 
small lake of the same name 
(which, in clear weather, reflects 
the summit of Mont Blanc*). Near 
this is a path whereby Chamounix 
may be reached without passing 
through Servoz, one league shorter, 
but practicable for pedestrians 
only. 

On approaching Servoz, in the 
valley of the same name, the ruins 
of part of the Antherne may be 
seen, which fell in July 1751. This 
confused mass is crossed by a tor- 
rent called the Nant Noir. At 
Servoz the char a -banc generally 
stops for half an hour to rest the 
horses. Travellers may amuse 
themselves in viewing a collection 
of minerals, &c., which are exposed 
for sale in an adjoining building. 
Near Servoz is the monument of 
Eschen, a Danish poet, who fell into 
a cleft of a glacier, and perished, in 
August 1800. 

Beyond Servoz, upon an elevated 
rock on the right, stands the ruins 
of the castle of St Michel. Near 
this part are mines, the working 
of which has long been disconti- 
nued ; the ruins of the former cot- 
tages of the miners give this spot a 
melancholy appearance. 

The Valley of Chamounix is first 
seen on issuing from Les Monets. 
The Nant de Nagin is crossed be- 
fore arriving at the village of 
Ouches, which is about three quar- 
ters of a league from the entrance 
of the valley. The small glaciers 
of Grias and Taconay are the first 
visible ; further on, the Glacier des 
Bossons and the Glacier des Bois. 
Beyond Ouches are the Nant de 
Grias and the Nant de Taconay. 
The former is at times very dan- 
gerous. Further on is the village 



* This lake was nearly filled up in July, 
1837, by the falling of part of the Mont 
Varens. 



of Moncouart, and the Nant and 
village of Les Bossons. The three 
Nants, or torrents, just mentioned, 
descend severally from the glaciers 
of the same name. Those who wish 
to visit the Glacier des Bossons at 
once, without proceeding first to 
the village of Chamounix (by which 
a return of a league will be spared), 
should take a guide at Moncouart, 
and let the carriage await their re- 
turn at that village ; or, if they 
wish to cross the glacier, send it 
forward to meet them at the bridge 
of Les Bossons. 

The valley of Chamounix lies in 
a direction from north-east to south- 
west, and is watered through its 
entire extent by the Arve. Its 
length is about six leagues ; its 
breadth varies from a half to a 
quarter of a league. On the north- 
east it is bounded by the Col de 
Balme, on the south-west by the 
mountains of Lacha and Yaudagne, 
between which extends the Col de 
la Eorclaz. The Breven and the 
chain of the Aiguilles Rouges, form 
its northern barrier, that of Mont 
Blanc its southern. The glaciers 
of Chamounix are six; named Grias, 
Taconay, Bossons, Bois, Argentiere, 
and Tour. It is a singular fact, 
that this valley, at present the re- 
sort of innumerable visitants, from 
almost every country in Europe, 
was completely unknown until 1 741. 
In that year it was first explored 
by two Englishmen, Mr Pocock, 
the celebrated traveller, and Mr 
Windham, who came armed, and 
accompanied by armed domestics, 
from Geneva, as the recesses of 
Chamounix were supposed to be the 
haunt of brigands ; a belief which 
gained for the neighbouring moun- 
tains the appellation of Montagues 
Maudites. The valley is divided 
into three parishes, those of Ouches, 
the Prieure, and Argentiere. The 
village of Chamounix, the chief 
place of the valley, is more usually 
called the Prieure, from a convent 



330 



ROUTE 64. — MONT BLANC. PART IV. 



of Benedictines founded there in 
1099, by a count of Geneva. It is 
situated at the foot of the mountain 
Breven, and is itself elevated three 
thousand one hundred and fifty 
feet above the level of the sea. 

The hotels are, T Union, the Hdtel 
de Londres et d' Angleterre, and 
Crown. The charges and accom- 
modations are about equal. There 
is a fourth hotel, of more humble 
pretensions. 

Guides. There are two classes 
of courses or excursions ; the ex- 
traordinary and the ordinary. The 
extraordinary courses were : — 

1st, To the summit of Mont Blanc. 

2d. To the Jardins. 

3d. To any glacier, except those 
that descend to the valley of Chamou- 
nix. 

4th. To the glaciers of the JBuet. 

The fee for ordinary courses is 
six francs a day.* Each guide is 
obliged to pay five francs five sous 
yearly to the stock-purse. The fee 
for extraordinary courses is forty 
francs a day. In every case the 
return must be paid : that is, the 
number of days which it requires 
to return to the Prieure from the 
place where they have been dis- 
charged, must be paid for as if they 
were engaged in actual service. 

Travellers are not considered 
responsible for the guides and 
mules engaged over night, when 
the weather in the morning proves 
unfavourable. On mountain ex- 
cursions, the guides carry provi- 
sions, whereof they expect a share. 
In addition to their stipulated fee, 
the guides look for, and sometimes 
solicit drink money, although one 
of their laws expressly prohibits 
even the acceptance. 



* See also the article under the head, — 
Guides, Mules, &c. I believe the extraor- 
dinary course is now confined to Mont 
Blanc, although on the other excursions 
it is something more than six francs a day. 



Excursions from Chamounix. 

The Glacier des Sossons. Those 
who have not visited this glacier 
on their way to the village of 
Chamounix, can easily accomplish 
an excursion to it and to Montan- 
vert in one day. This glacier is, 
perhaps, one of the least dangerous. 
The path, which diverges on the 
left from the high road, traverses 
a thicket of alders, follows the 
course of a rivulet that issues 
from the glacier, then crosses some 
meadows, and finally a forest of 
pines. The ascent through the 
forest is very steep ; but, as the 
path here runs close to the glacier, 
the fatigue is compensated by the 
pleasure of accurately examining 
its formation. On completing the 
ascent, the glacier may be crossed ; 
those unwilling to venture across 
must re-descend by the original 
path. 

Montam)ert is properly an ele- 
vated pasture on the summit of a 
mountain under the Aiguilles de 
Charmoz, although the name is 
usually applied to the entire moun- 
tain. The path from the Prieure 
to Montanvert, after traversing the 
Arve and the pastures of the val- 
ley, ascends through a forest of 
Alpine trees. The path is in no 
part dangerous for pedestrians ; 
but there are some places whither 
it would be very hazardous to 
venture upon any animal less 
sure-footed than the mule. Large 
masses of rock and uprooted trees, 
appearing at intervals, mark the 
direction of the avalanches that 
have fallen at different periods. 
About half-way up the ascent is an 
agreeable resting-place at the foun- 
tain Claudine. This spot com- 
mands a fine view of the valley of 
the Breven and the Aiguilles 
Rouges. About a league further 
is a ravine formed by avalanches. 
The summit of Montanvert may 
be attained in about two hours 



SWITZERLAND.— ROUTE 64. MONT BLANC. 



331 



after leaving the Prieure, Here 
refreshment, and, if necessary, a 
bed, maybe obtained, in a small 
building erected in 1837 for that 
purpose. Before the erection of 
the present building, there was no 
other shelter for the trareller than 
a rude building called the Chateau, 
or Hopital de Blair, from an 
English gentleman of that name, 
by whom it was erected. It is now 
employed as a stall for cows that 
graze here during the summer. 
The height of Montanvert above 
the valley of Chamounix, is two 
thousand five hundred and sixty- 
eight feet. 

Owing to the improvement of 
the path, or road, the ascent of 
Montanvert is by no means so 
arduous as formerly, when it was 
usual to send the mules back to 
Chamounix, on reaching a rugged 
part called Le Chemin des Crystal - 
liers, and to accomplish the re- 
mainder of the ascent on foot. 
Ladies are sometimes conveyed in 
chaises-d-porteur. The day I visited 
Montanvert four ladies walked up 
and down with only a mountain 
pole to assist them : certainly they 
were not English.* 

A short but steep descent leads 
to the Mer de Glace, which is here 
in length eight leagues, the view 
extending over two ; in width half 
a league. Near the path is the 
Eocher des Anglais, the " Rock of 
the English," whereon Messrs Po- 
cock and Windham dined. 

The Source of the Arverou. — To 
avoid the trouble of a separate 
excursion it would be advisable to 
descend immediately from the sum- 
mit of Montanvert to the source of 
the Arveron, which issues from the 
Glacier des Bois. The descent is 
along a hollow, wrought by ava- 

• The expense of a mule and guide to 
ascend Montanvert is twelve francs ; per- 
sons in health, and who have the use of 
their eyes, require neither one nor the 
other. 



lanches, and called La Felia. The 
descent occupies about an hour 
and a half. Ladies who ascend in 
a chaise-d-porteur may descend in 
the same manner. The Arveron 
issues through a fine natural arch 
called the Voute, or Embouchure 
de I'Arv^ron, which is sometimes 
entered, although never without 
considerable danger. A, M. Moritz 
perished here, on the 8th of August 
1797. The Prieure may be re- 
gained in less than an hour. The 
Arveron joins the Arve between 
the latter hamlet and Prieure. 

Excursions may also be made to 
the Jardin, Buet, &c. ; for which 
guides must be engaged. 

Mont Blanc is the most elevated 
mountain of the old continent, be- 
ing, according to M. de Luc, 15,304, 
and according to Sir George Shuck- 
burg, 15,662 English feet in height. 
This mountain, observed from the 
Col de Balme and the vale of 
Chamounix, is particularly distin- 
guished from other mountains by 
a mantle of snow, which clothes its 
summit and sides almost without 
the intervention of the least rock 
to break the glare of the white 
appearance from which its name 
is derived. But those who have 
seen it from the Val d'Aoste, 
observe that, on that side, it does 
not appear to be covered with a 
mantle of snow, and that it exceeds 
the Shreckhorn in ruggedness and 
horror. Of the various attempts 
that have been made to reach the 
summit of Mont Blanc, the first 
was in July 1776, by M. Couteran 
and three guides of Chamounix, 
but they did not succeed in reach- 
ing the summit. Various other 
attempts, equally futile, were made 
in succeeding years. In July 1786, 
Jacques Balmat, one of six guides 
of Chamounix. being separated 
from his companions, who failed in 
another attempt, passed the night 
on a spot above the dome of Goute, 
elevated more than 12,000 feet 



332 



EOUTE 65. - CHAMOtJNIX TO MAKTIGNT. PART IV. 



above the level of the sea. On his 
return, however, to Chamounix, he 
was seized with a very severe in- 
disposition, the efFect of extreme 
fatigue and of intense cold; but 
being attended by Dr Paccard, a 
physician of the place, he offered, 
as an expression of gratitude for 
his attendance, to conduct him to 
the summit of Mont Blanc. 

These two daring adventurers 
set out on the 7th of August, and 
having obtained the summit, re- 
mained there about half an hour. 
The cold was so intense, that their 
provision was frozen in their pock- 
ets, the ink congealed in their 
inkhorns, and the mercury in 
Fahrenheit's thermometer sunk to 
18^ degrees. They spent fifteen 
hours in descending, but found 
great difficulty in their descent, 
their sight being much debi- 
litated by the reflection of the 
snow. On their return to Cha- 
mounix, at eight in the morning, 
their faces were excoriated, their 
lips much swollen, and Dr Paccard 
was almost blind. To convey some 
idea of this tremendous journey, it 
may be proper to observe, that 
although the distance, in a right 
line, from Chamounix to the sum- 
mit of Mont Blanc, is not more 
than eight or nine miles, yet the 
real extent of this arduous walk is 
between forty and fifty miles, and 
will occupy not less than eighteen 
hours, on account of the frightful 
glaciers which are encountered, and 
the endless circuits that must be 
made by the patient and weary 
traveller. 

ROUTE 6.5. 

CHAMOUNIX TO MARTIGNT, BY THE 
TETE-NOIRE. 



T^te Noire 
Trient . 
Martigny 



hours, mim 

2 

30 

2 15 



8 



20 





hours. 


min 


Bridge across the Arve . 


I 


30 


Chapel of Tines 





20 


Argenti^re 


1 


15 


Valorsine 





30 



From Chamounix the pedestrian 
may reach Martigny in one day. 
The whole of this walk abounds in 
picturesque, interesting, and sur- 
prising scenes. 

In following the course of the 
Arve to get out of the valley of 
Chamounix, we pass by its third 
parish, called Argentiere, which is 
said to have taken this appellation 
from a silver mine found near it. 
We see likewise the glacier to 
which this village gives its name ; 
it is cut like the lining of a bastion, 
and the prospect it affords is the 
more striking, as it runs up between 
large woods of fir trees, which are 
admirably opposed to the whiteness, 
the clearness, and the varied colours 
of the ice. Those who enter Cha- 
mounix from the Pays de Vallais, 
are exceedingly surprised upon their 
arrival, because this road not hav- 
ing gradually prepared them for 
the striking effects of the ice and 
glaciers (as we enter on the oppo- 
site side), the very first step they 
take in the valley unexpectedly 
presents the front of this glacier, 
which may be about 1,200 feet in 
its extent from top to i)ottom. But 
to those who have passed through 
the valley of Chamounix this view 
is not so remarkable. 

More distant we discover the 
Glacier of Tour, which descends 
like a cascade down a spacious 
valley of ice : it differs from other 
glaciers in the form of its frozen 
waves, or beds of ice, which are 
rounded off more like regular 
globes, so that when seen from a 
distance, and the sun happens to 
shine upon it, there are a thousand 
suns reflected instead of one 

The valley crowned by this gla- 
cier is a collection of mountains of 
ice, piled one upon another, and is 



SWITZERLAND ROUTE 65. CHAMOUIX TO MARTIGNT. 



333 



not to be ascended; its very aspect, 
which is frightful, gives us an idea 
of Spitzbergen and Nova Zembla, 
and the falls of ice will not admit 
even a near approach to it ; the 
thundering down of these fragments 
is heard several leagues off, and 
such is the violence of their shock, 
that the Valorsine has been fre- 
quently alarmed with the concus- 
sion. In the mean time, it is re- 
markable that the space between 
this valley, rugged with broken 
mountains of ice, and the Val 
d' Aoste, which partakes of the fine 
climate and the fertility of Italy, is 
at most not above two leagues. 

At a less distance, more towards 
the north, we may discern likewise 
the source of the Arve, which, flow- 
ing at first from three springs only, 
is very soon considerably increased 
by the torrents from the glaciers 
just spoken of. 

After a walk of two hours from 
the Prieure the traveller leaves the 
valley of Chamounix, at the oppo- 
site end to that by which he en- 
tered. A road on the left will 
conduct him into the Valorsine, 
which on that side borders upon 
the country of Vallais. This valley, 
which extends from south-west to 
north-east, may be about three 
lergues in length, and less than a 
quarter of a league in its greatest 
breadth. From its broken, ruinous 
appearance, one would at first think 
it uninhabited; but, farther on, we 
discover some few houses, and in 
the middle of it, on the left hand, 
an opening is seen, with the most 
beautiful fall of water imaginable, 
called the Cascade Barberina. 

To go to it we are obliged to quit 
the great road; and it is not till 
we come very near that it appears 
in all its beauty. It is a consider- 
able river that descends from the 
Glacier of Bex, and falls 800 yards 
from the ridge of a mountain which 
is almost entirely covered by the 
spouting sheet of water; this tor- 



rent, magnificent and even terrible, 
pouring from a reservoir which 
it has hollowed upon the mountain, 
rolls along its rocky channel, and 
bounding to the very bottom of the 
valley. This fine waterfall is also 
embellished by large trees, which 
shoot from the summit of the 
mountain into the clouds, and in its 
front, by lofty firs and rocks, so as 
altogether to form a picture the 
most delightful as well as extraor- 
dinary. 

Descending from the waterfall 
we soon enter into a very narrow 
defile, where there still remain 
some ruined fragments of a gate 
and tower, which formerly defend- 
ed the entrance into this country. 
Everything that surrounds us is 
enough to alarm even the most in- 
trepid mind; we see nothing but 
rapid torrents, naked rocks, or 
mountains entirely covered with 
lofty forests of fir trees. 

The new road, which was being 
completed from this spot to the 
Tete Noire, adds very much to the 
facility of travelling. After ascend- 
ing for some time (the ascent is by 
no means steep) a large rock is 
reached, said to be the property (if 
the inscription in bad English is to 
be believed) of an English traveller 
of distinction. It forms a natural 
grotto, in which at least thirty per- 
sons could be sheltered. This as- 
cent continues round the Tete 
Noire, formerly a difficult pass, but 
now exceedingly easy and safe, as a 
new road has been made within 
these five years. In 1833, a pas- 
sage was cut through a large rock, 
formerly called Mauvais Pas. 

Not far distant, however, another 
valley opens, which, though it has 
no plain, has notwithstanding some 
habitations, and a few pastures en- 
closed by large woods. It is com- 
manded by a single village called 
Pegnon : this village, seated upon a 
green turf, almost at the top of a 
mountain, and upon a steep de- 



334 



ROUTE 65 CHAM0T7NIX TO MARTIGNY. PART IV. 



livity which is crowned with 
pines, produces a very singular 
effect. 

Leaving this parish on our left, 
the road conducts us round the 
Tete Noire through woods, and over 
a rocky road extremely narrow, 
which is terminated by an immense 
rampart of pines, it is not long 
before we distinguish a few cottages 
with a chapel: this is the village 
of Trient, in which, at the auberge, 
they seemed to well understand the 
fleecing system. From this village 
there is a steep ascent to Forcla. 
Having gained the top, a landscape, 
as delightful as it is extensive, 
bursts upon the view. Two roman- 
tic mountains, covered with lofty 
fir trees, extend on our right and 
left, and close behind us; at their 
base are fertile pastures; and in 
front, but far below us, at the bottom 



of the valley, the very first object 
which presents itself upon the plain 
is the town of Martigny, somewhat 
more than two leagues distant. 
This valley runs forward from Mar- 
tigny in a straight line for six or 
seven leagues in length and a 
league in breadth, and is divided 
through its whole extent by the 
Ehone, with Sion, the capital of the 
Vallais, discoverable in the dis- 
tance; these objects offer to the 
mind of the traveller an idea of the 
richest country, or rather of the 
most beautiful and magnificent 
garden. 

From Martigny, the tourist may 
proceed by St Maurice to St Gin- 
goulph, and thence pursue his 
course to Evian, and along the 
banks of the lake to Geneva: or 
visit the baths of Leuk (if not 
visited from Thim). See page 325. 



HAND-BOOE FOE OENTKAL EUROPE, 



OR 



GUIDE-BOOK FOR TEAYELLERS. 



PART V. FRANCE. 



ROUTE 66. 

LONDON TO PARIS BY CALAIS AND 
BOULOGNE. 

Steamers ply between London, 
Calais, and Boulogne, several times 
a week, also daily from Dover, and 
every tide between Folkstone and 
Boulogne, corresponding with the 
South-eastern or Dover railway ; 
for particulars of which, and route, 
see page 57 ; for description of the 
river Thames see page 1. 

4(.*4(. Information respecting the landing at 
foreign ports is given in the Introduction. 

CALAIS. 

Hotels. Dessin's, good, but ex- 
travagantly dear. 

QuiUac's, good and moderate. 
Charges: bedrooms, from 2fr. to 
3 fr. ; breakfast, 1 fr. 50 c. ; table 
d'hote, at five o'clock, 3 fr. 50 c. 
Carriages may be hired of Mr 
Quillac on moderate terms by the 
journey, month, or year. 

Calais is protected by a strong 
citadel and several forts. The town 
contains about 13,000 inhabitants. 

The town hall is in the Place 
cfArmes. In the interior of the 
town hall are preserved the balloon 
and car with which M. Blachard 
and Dr Jeffreys crossed th« chan- 
nel; and over the stairs is a por- 
trait of Pierre de Belloy, who 



wrote ' The Siege of Calais.' In 
front of the building are busts of 
Eustace de St Pierre, Cardinal 
Richelieu, and the Duke of Guise. 

The interior of the church is 
considered one of the prettiest in 
France, and contains numerous 
chapels, adorned with paintings. 

An English clergyman resides at 
Calais, and performs the English 
Protestant service every Sunday, 
in a room appropriated to that 
purpose. 

The most interesting object at 
Calais is the pier; the pillar on it 
was erected to commemorate the 
return of Louis XVIII from Eng- 
land. 

The ramparts, the barracks, the 
lighthouse, above the town hall, 
the gate erected by order of Riche- 
lieu, and, on the wall by the quay, 
a monument in memory of some 
shipwrecked sailors. 

At the end of the Rue de la Pri- 
son, opening on the Grande Place, 
is a gateway which formed part of 
the Cour de Guise, where H^nry 
Vin received Erancis I. 

The tourist may wile away a 
few hours in the evening at the 
neat commodious theatre, Rue de la 
Comedie. The performance com- 
mences at half-past five, and is 
usually over at nine. The prices 
of admission are : amphitheatre 
and boxes, 2 fr.; pit, 13 sous. 

In the Faubourg St Pierre are 



336 



BOUTE 67.— BOULOGNE 



public gardens, to which the middle 
and lower classes resort on Sunday 
evenings, and amuse themselves 
with dancing. 

At Dessin's Hotel is still shown 
a room in which it is said Sterne 
wrote part of his ' Sentimental 
Journey. ' Over the door is the 
following inscription: " This is 
Sterne's room." 

Calais was heseiged in 1347, by 
Edward III, King of England. The 
besieged defended themselves for 
a year with the most exemplary 
courage; but at length, becoming 
destitute of everything, requested 
to capitulate. The king consented 
to spare the inhabitants, on con- 
dition that six of the most famous 
should bring him the keys, with 
cords round their necks, and de- 
vote themselves for their fellow- 
citizens. Edward was about to have 
them executed, when the queen 
threw herself at his feet, and ob- 
tained their pardon. All the inha- 
hitants were driven out, but every 
town in Erance was anxious to re- 
ceive them, and Philip de Valois 
rewarded them handsomely. The 
English remained masters of this 
town from 1347 to 1558, when it 
was retaken by the Duke de Guise, 
during the reign of Henry 11. 
Calais was the birth-place of La 
Place. 

There is a daily communication 
between Calais and Dover, by 
means of steam-packets. The pas- 
sage is generally accomplished in 
three hours. 

A Diligence to Ostend every 
morning in seven hours. 

ROUTE 67. 

CALAIS TO PARIS, BY BOULOGNE, 
ABBEVILLE, AND BEAUVAIS. 



Calais to Buisson 
Marquise . 
Boulogne . 
Samer 



Miles. Myr. Kil. 

9 1 3 

14 8 

2U 1 3 

30| 1 5 



GNE. PART IV. 










Miles. 


Myr. 


Kyi 


Cormont 


36 





8 


Montreuil . 


43| 


1 


3 


Nampont . 


5l'i 


1 


4 


Bernay 


. 57: 





9 


Nouvion 


62; : 





7 


Abbeville . 


ro| 


1 


3 


Airaines 


83 


I 


9 


Camps 


89| 


1 





Poix . 


. 96^ 


1 


3 


Grand vil Hers 


, 106| 


1 


4 


Marseille . 


. 113^ 


1 





Beauvais , 


126 


1 


9 


Noailles 


135i 


1 


5 


Puiseux 


144 


1 


S 


Beaumont , 


151 


1 





Moiselles . 


159^ 


1 


2 


St Denis . 


168 


1 


3 


Paris {double) , 


174 





9 



27 

Haut Suisson is a solitary post^ 
house, nine miles from Calais. 

Marquise is five miles further ; 
it is a small village, containing 
2,000 inhabitants and a post-house. 

Wimille, a pretty village in the 
valley. In the churchyard is a 
monument of the aeronaut Pilatre, 
and his companion Romain, who 
fell there from a prodigious height. 
Wimille is about three miles from 

BOULOGNE. 

Hotels. Des Bains, Royal Hotels 
Marine, D''Angleterre. Du Nord, 
Univers, London Hotel, British 
Hotel, &c. 

Boulogne, a flourishing seaport 
in the department of the Pas de 
Calais ; it is of great antiquity, 
and is divided into the high and 
low town. The high town, con- 
nected with the low town by a steep 
street called la Grande Rue, is sur- 
rounded by a rampart, which 
aflbrds a fine prospect of the coun- 
try in various directions ; on the 
west the English coast may be 
seen in clear weather. The accom- 
modations for sea-bathing attract 
annually a great number of visitors. 
The establishment for bathing is a 
splendid building. The public mu- 
seum is worth visiting. 

Boulogne contains, according to 



FRANCE.— ROUTE 68. PARIS. 



33^ 



the last census, 24,314 inhabitants, 
exclusive of 5,000 English resi- 
dents. On an eminence, about a 
mile from the town, stands a co- 
lumn of marble, begun by Napo- 
leon, to commemorate his intended 
conquest of England. In 1814, 
Louis XVIII gave orders for the 
completion of the monument, in 
honour of the restoration of his 
own dynasty ; in 1841 it was sur- 
mounted by a statue of Napoleon. 

Samer is eleven miles from Bou- 
logne, and contains 1,700 inhabi- 
tants, a post-house, and a good inn, 
the Bull's Head. Twelve miles fur- 
ther is 

Montreuil, where the diligence 
stops one hour. Travellers usually 
dine here ; price, 3^ fr., wine in- 
cuded. Montreuil is a fortified 
town of the second class : the en- 
trance is rather large than hand- 
some, yet on the Calais side it pre- 
sents a noble appearance, situate 
on a commanding eminence, and 
has been esteemed a place of almost 
impregnable strength ; the streets 
are broad and winding. Popula- 
tion, 4,000. The next town of im- 
portance is 

Abbeville, where the diligence 
again stops for half- an-hour; coffee 
is awaiting the passengers, 1 fr. 
each. It is a large and strong 
town, tolerably built, but of a de- 
clining trade. The front of the 
principal church is ornamented 
with colossal statues, saved during 
the revolutions, with three towers, 
two of them in good Gothic style, 
and the third in the form of an 
elegant column. Population, 19,520. 
From Abbeville a diligence runs to 
Dieppe, fare, 10 fr. 

Airaines is a tolerably well-built 
market-town, in a good situation on 
three small rivers, of which two 
take rise about a league off, and the 
other in the vicinity. 

GranvilUers, a borough, with a 
post-house and a good market. In 
the middle stands a large square, 



from whence run broad streets in 
every direction. 

Marseille, a small borough, in a 
rural situation, shaded with fine 
trees, and watered with the little 
rivers of HerboUval and Therain. 
The bridge is a curiosity. 

Beauvais, the chief town of the 
department on the Therain, is sur- 
rounded with pretty views, and 
well watered. It was besieged by 
the Duke of Burgundy in 1472, 
with an army of 80,000 men, when 
the bravery of the women, under 
the direction of Jean Hachette, 
compelled him to raise the siege. 
This town is neatly built, the streets 
broad and straight. The great 
square and the Hotel de Ville, a 
beautiful modern building, are 
worthy of notice ; as well as the 
choir of the cathedral, the height 
and size of which render it a mag- 
nificent temple. 

Prom Beauvais, a diligence runs 
to Rouen. Breakfast here awaits 
the hungry traveller ; price, 3^ fr. 

Beaumont-sur- Oise, a small and 
pleasant town. The street which 
crosses the market is a beautiful 
walk; an old tower belonging to 
an ancient castle, built by the Eng- 
lish, looks over a rich valley. 

Saint Denis (Seine), a small 
town, famous for its abbey of Bene- 
dictines, founded in the year 613, 
by Dagobert I, according to some 
authors ; by others by St Gene- 
vieve, in 496. Described in the 
Environs of Paris. 





ROUTE 68. 






TO PARIS, BY 


AMIENS 


AND 






CHANTILLT. 










Miles. 


Myr, 


Kil 


Calais to Abbev 


aie 


• 70f 


M 


3 


Ailiy 






. 78i 


3 


Pecquginy 


. 




. 94 


2 





Amiens 






. 1021 


1 


3 


Piers . 


. 


, 


.1141 


1 


9 


Breteuil . 






. 122 


1 


3 


St Just 




, 


. 1335 


1 


8 


Clermont 






. 142| 


1 


6 



338 



ROUTE 68. — AMIENS. CHANTILLY. PART V. 





Miles. 


Myr. Kil 


Laigneville 


. . 149i 


1 


Chantilly 


. 157 


1 2 


Luzarches 


. . 162| 


1 


Ecouen 


. 169| 


1 1 


St Denis 


. . 157| 


1 


Paris 


. 179i 


9 



28 7 

Boad to Abbeville described at 
page 337. 

The general appearance of the 
country from Abbeville begins to 
improve, and after crossing several 
small hills, the village of Flixe- 
court, and the wood of Prieure, 
you enter Pickigny, a post town. 
In this place the interview between 
the kings of Trance and England, 
Louis XI and Edward IV, took 
place. William of Normandy was 
assassinated here. 

Amiens. This town, chief place 
of the department, and formerly 
the capital of Picardy, is situated 
on the river Somme. It has a 
royal court, a bishop's see, a board 
of commerce, a tribunal of first 
instance, an academy, and a royal 
college. 

This town is celebrated for the 
treaty which was concluded there 
in 1802. The apartment in which 
was signed this kind of truce, called 
by politicians the petite paix, is still 
shown. The cathedral is one of 
the most perfect specimens of 
Gothic architecture in Prance ; the 
nave, especially, is most beautiful ; 
the magnificence of the pillars 
strikes the spectator's eye ; there 
are 126, of which forty-four are 
detached. Those placed round the 
choir and against the walls which 
separate the chapel, sound like a 
bell when struck ; for this reason 
they are called colonnes sonnantes ; 
that called the pilier sonnant asto- 
nishes by the strength of its sound, 
produced by the least knock. The 
stalls of the choir are much ad- 
mired, as well as the pulpit, for 
their fine work. The church is 



392 feet long, seventy-six broad, 
and 320 high. The H6tel-de Ville^ 
built by Henry IV, the corn hall, 
the library, the lycee (now the 
college), and the prefecture, are 
worthy of a stranger's observation. 

Travellers by the diligence, 
which leaves Calais in the evening, 
dine here ; after which, if in the 
summer, there will be time to take 
a hasty view of the cathedral 

Clermont, a neat, rich, and trad- 
ing town, the seat of an under- 
prefecture. Prom the terrace of 
the castle the prospect is diversified 
and beautiful. 

Creil, formerly a town of some 
importance, where are to be seen 
the remains of a castle, in which 
Charles VI was shut up. 

Chantilly, a borough which is 
indebted for its prosperity to the 
family of Conde. The houses are 
neat and roofed with slate. A very 
beautiful street has been built by 
the last Prince of Conde, as well as 
a richly endowed hospital. At the 
entrance of the park stands the 
country theatre, where Racine, 
Boileau, and Moliere, contributed 
to amuse the leisure hours of the 
grand Conde. The palais, so much 
admired for its magnificence and 
greatness, was once the residence 
of the Montmorenci and the Cond6, 
but was destroyed by the Vandal 
revolutionaries. The Duke of 
Bourbon has raised one part of 
these beautiful dominions, daily 
visited by strangers. The Gothic 
house of Queen Blanche is alone 
worthy the journey from Paris to 
Chantilly. 

The road continues to ofier fine 
scenery ; leaving on your right the 
wood of Royaumont, and on the 
left that of H^rivaux, 

Luzarches, a small town, built 
and inhabited by the kings of the 
second race. The lovers of arts j 
will visit the two castles, the resi- 
dence of the ancient monarchs, one 
on the right of the road, and the 



FRANCE. — ROUTE 70. DIEPPE. HAVRE. 



339 



other on the left. The next two 
towns are Ecouen and St Denis. 

EOUTE 69. 

PARIS BY BRIGHTON AND DIEPPE. 

Trains from London bridge to 
Brighton seven times a day. Fares : 
— ^Fast train, 14s. 6d, ; first class, 
12s. ; second class, 8s. ; third 
class, .5s. 

Steamers from the Eailway 
Wharf, Shoreham Harbour, calling 
at Brighton Pier, weather permit- 
ting, every Wednesday and Satur- 
day morning, returning every 
Monday and Thursday night, 
according to tide, in eight hours ; 
also to Havre from Kingston Eail- 
way Wharf, Shoreham Harbour, 
every Tuesday and Friday morn- 
ing, returning every Sunday and 
Wednesday night, according to 
tide. Fares: — Chief cabin 20s. ; 
fore cabin, 15s. ; children under 
ten years of age, half price ; four- 
wheel carriages, 3/. 3s. ; two -wheel, 
2/. 23. ; horses, 21. 10s. ; dogs, 5s. 
each. 

DIEPPE. 

Hotels. The Royal, London, and 
Taylor's. 

Dieppe is a large and ancient 
town, at the mouth of the river 
Arques. The entrance into the 
harbour is formed by rocks on one 
side, and the pier on the other. 
The church is of great antiquity. 
The castle commands a most exten- 
sive prospect. 

In summer, this place is much 
frequented for the purpose of sea- 
bathing, being the nearest sea-port 
of Paris. Lodgings are rather 
dear, particularly during the bath- 
ing season. The charges at the 
hotels are — breakfast, Ifr. 10 sous; 
dinner, at table d'hote, 3 fr. ; beds, 
2fr. 

The coaches leave Dieppe for 
Paris every morning at five, six, 



and seven o'clock ; and evening at 
six and seven. Inside, 27 fr. ; out- 
side, 22 fr. They are generally 
from sixteen to twenty hours on 
the road ; to Eouen, twice a day, 
corresponding with the railway. 

See Eouen, page 340. 



Dieppe to Paris 
Dieppe to Rouen 

To Omonville 

Totes . 

Las Cambres . 

Rouen 



Miles. 
. 104 
. . 35 
Myr. Kil. 
. 1 5 
. 1 3 
. 1 2 
. 1 7 



5 7 
Rouen to Paris, by Railroad, 84 E. Miles. 

EOUTE 70. 

TO PARIS BY SOUTHAMPTON AND 
HAVRE. 

Railway Trains, from the Nine 
Elms station, to Southampton and 
Portsmouth, several times a day, 
corresponding with the steamers to 
Havre, Jersey, Guernsey, St Malo, 
and Granville. Fares : — ^Fast train, 
21s.; first class, 20s. ; second class, 
14s. ; third class, 6s. 6d. 

Inns at Southampton, Dolphin, 
Star, in the High street ; near the 
pier are the Vine, Castle, Sun, 
Royal George (dear), and Pier 
Hotel 

Steamers for Havre daily during 
the summer, and twice a week in 
winter, calling at Portsmouth one 
hour and a quarter after leaving 
Southampton, and performing the 
passage from thence in ten hours. 
Fares : — Main cabin, 21s. ; fore 
cabin, 14s. ; carriages, Si. ; horses, 
3/. ; dogs, 5s. Passengers can at 
all times walk on board from the 
Eoyal Pier, Southampton. Female 
stewards on board all the vessels. 

The Steam-packets from South- 
ampton perform the voyage ge- 
nerally in from twelve to fourteen 
hours. Their accommodations are 
of a superior description, making 
up upwards of sixty beds each, 



340 



ROTTTE 71- — HAVRE TO EOUEN. PART V. 



with every suitable arrangement 
for families. 



HAVKE. 

Hotels. For families making any 
stay in Havre the FrascatVs hotel 
and baths is the best, but for those 
merely passing through, the Ami- 
raute, London, or Wheeler's hotel, are 
the most conveniently situated on 
the quay. 

Havre stands in a marshy ground, 
on the declivity of the hill of Igou- 
ville. The air is pure though 
damp. The pretoire is a good 
building at the entrance of the 
market The library, containing 
fifteen thousand volumes, takes up 
the ground floor of Le Pretoire ; 
it is open every Monday, Thursday, 
and Saturday, from ten in the 
morning till two in the afternoon. 
La Bourse (Exchange), erected in 
1785, from the drawings of Bou- 
cart, is an insignificant building. 
The dock of La Barre is a large 
basin of 59,540 metres in superfices. 
Havre is the chief town of an ar- 
rondissement. The making of cot- 
ton stufls, a source of prosperity 
unknown to France a century 
ago, producing now more than 
350,000,000f. yearly, is, printed 
stuffs, the first branch of its in- 
dustry. The population of Havre, 
strangers included, amounts to 
30,000. This town contains eighty- 
two quays and streets, and twenty 
fountains supplied by the sources 
of Saint Addresse and Trigauville. 
The traveller should not forget to 
visit the lighthouses, whose eleva- 
tion above the level of the ocean is 
fifty metres ; and there he will be 
gratified with a prospect at sea of 
more than twenty leagues. 

Diligences. — There are three 
coaches from Havre to Rouen, 
daily : from the hotel Bien Venu 
every morning at five o'clock; from 
the Grande Bureau, Rue de Paris, 
every morning at five o'clock; and 



from the Hotel de l'Aigkd'Or,eveTy 
evening at six o'clock. 

Steam-packets to Roiiea, daily, 
up the river Seine, in eight hours ? 
best cabin, 13 francs; fore cabin, 
8 francs. A steam-packet to and 
from Harfleur, daily, commtmica- 
ting with diligences from thence tc 
Caen, and through Lower E^or- 
mandy: fares, best cabin, 1 fraae; 
fore cabin, 50 cents. 

Caen, described in Route from 
Paris to Granville. 

Steam-boats to Ijondon, Brighton, 
Southampton, and various other 
places. 

ROUTE 71. 

HAVBE TO ROUEN. 



Havre to La Botte 
,, Bolbec 
,, Yvetot 
,, Barentin 
,, Rouen 



Miles. Myr. Kil. 



11 

46f 
57| 



Quitting Havre, the traveller 
cannot fail to admire the beauty of 
the scenery which everywhere sur- 
rounds him. The village of Gra- 
ville, singular for its extraordinary 
length, reaching, with a few inter- 
vals, nearly five miles. 

Bolbec, a small manufacturing 
town on the banks of the same 
name, produces the most beautiful 
serges: it contains 6,000 inhabi- 
tants. 

Yvetot contains manufactories 
for hats, cottons, and velvets; and 
from Barentine to Rouen, the road 
is delightfully diversified with small 
villages and chateaux, which ren- 
der this part of France peculiarly 
interesting to strangers. There was 
formerly a king of Yvetot. 

ROUEN. 

Hotels. Grand Hotel de Rouen on 
the quay; excellent accommoda- 
tion, civil and attentive host, and 



JPRANCE ROUTE 71. ROtTEN. 



341 



reasonable charges ; beds from 2 
francs ; table d'hote, 3 francs ; 
breakfast, I franc 3 cents. Albion 
and Angleterre, also on the quay, 
both good. 

Rouen is one of the most com- 
mercial cities in France, with a 
population of 95,000 inhabitants. 
It was formerly the capital of Nor- 
mandy, but is now styled the first 
city of the department of the Seine, 
and is the see of an archbishop. It 
stands on the declivity of a hill 
north of the Seine, and, including 
its six suburbs, is about seven miles 
in circumference. It is bounded at 
the two extremities by the valley of 
D6ville and that of Darnetal, and 
when seen from the hill of St Cathe- 
rine, presents a delightful pospect. 
As in most towns of great antiquity, 
its streets are narrow and crooked, 
and its houses generally built of 
wood : in many of the former, car- 
riages cannot pass each other. The 
boulevards, which almost surround 
the city, form a singular contrast 
with the darkness and filth of some 
of the streets. They are bordered 
by noble trees, and afford fine 
views. 

The Cathedral, originally built by 
William the Conqueror, is still a 
noble specimen of Gothic architec- 
ture, although the beautiful spire 
which fose from its centre, and 
formed the most conspicuous orna- 
ment, was destroyed by lightning in 
September, 1822; to replace which, 
a cast-iron, openwork spire, which 
has been erecting, is nearly finished. 
The front is richly adorned with 
carved wood, and is surrounded by 
two towers, one of which formerly 
contained the celebrated bell called 
George d'Ambroise, destroyed dur- 
ing the Kevolution. The interior 
presents several interesting objects, 
particularly the tomb of the cardinals 
d'Ambroise, in which also Cardinal 
Cambaceres is buried; the tomb of 
Breze, governor of Bouen, who died 
in 1531; the monument erected of 



Diana of Poitiers, in honour of her 
husband; the inscriptions in me- 
mory of Richard Coeur de Lion, 
Henry his nephew, and the Duke 
of Bedford, who was regent ; the 
chapel of the Holy Virgin ; the 
statue of Richard Coeur de Lion, 
which ornamented his tomb, and 
the box which contains his heart. 
It also contains a fine altar-piece by 
Philip de Champagne, and effigies 
of Raoul, Duke of Normandy, and 
of William Longsword, his son, the 
second duke, who was killed at 
Pequigny, in 942. Adjoining the 
Cathedral is the archbishop's palace. 

The Abbey of St Owen, which 
formerly belonged to the Benedic- 
tines, is a light and elegant Gothic 
structure, adorned with beautiful 
painted windows. This church 
presents a curious optical illusion, 
as the vessel of holy water against 
one of the pillars near the entrance 
reflects the whole of the buUding in 
perspective. 

Contiguous to St Ouen is the 
Toym hall, containing a public li- 
brary of 70,000 volumes, and a gal- 
lery of pictures ; and a little further 
to the north is the Royal College. 

The Palace of Justice was for- 
merly the seat of the Norman Par- 
liament, but is now occupied, as its 
name imports, by the courts of law. 
The principal hall, which is 170 
feet in length and 50 in breadth, 
has a curious wooden roof, said to 
resemble a ship reversed. The ex- 
terior of this beautiful building is 
undergoing, and has been for some 
years, a thorough restoration. 

The Halles are immense rooms, 
in which the manufacturers and 
merchants expose cottons, cloths, 
&c., for sale to the retail dealers. 
They are situated in a building 
called the Vieille Tour, near the 
side of the river, and are only open 
on Fridays. Near the river side, 
also, is the Exchange, a gravelled 
walk divided from the quay by a 
palisade. In wet weather, how- 



342 



ROUTE 71. — ROUEN. PART V. 



ever, the merchants assemble in a 
large building near it. The tra- 
veller should likewise notice the 
churches of La Madeleine and St 
Maclou, the hospitals, the botanical 
garden, the barracks, in front of 
which is the Champ de Mars; the 
barracks on the bank of the river, 
the corn-hall near the Vieille Tour, 
and the theatre; Kouen also pos- 
sesses a handsome new custom 
house. 

The Suburb of St Sever, on the 
other side of the Seine, formerly 
communicated with the city by a 
bridge of boats, which rose and fell 
with the tide. 

The Stone bridge was buUt during 
the reign of Napoleon. It is called 
the Pont Royal, and it is 985 Paris 
feet in length. 

Rouen is noted as the birthplace 
of several eminent persons, amongst 
whom may be mentioned the two 
Corneilles ; Fontenelle, after whom 
one of the streets is named ; Jouve- 
net, the painter ; Blondel, the ma- 
thematician ; and P. Daniel, the 
historian. 

In the Place de la Pucelle is a 
clumsy and ill-executed statue, in- 
tended to represent the interesting 
and unfortunate Joan of Arc, who, 
to the disgrace of the English gene- 
ral, was burnt here for sorcery in 
1480. In the same place is an old 
house, the interior court of which 
is adorned with sculptures, repre- 
senting the interview between 



Francis I and Henry VIII ; the 
former of whom is said to have 
slept here previous to that event. 

In the suburb of St Sever, and 
along the bank of the river, is a 
beautiful promenade, more than 
2,000 yards in length, called the 
Course, shaded by very lofty trees. 
The boulevards and the garden of 
the town house are also much fre^ 
quented as promenades. A hill 
called St Catherine, in the imme- 
diate vicinity of Rouen, presents a 
most beautiful view of the city and 
its environs ; no traveller should 
quit Rouen without visiting this 
enchanting spot. 

Railroad to Paris Trains five 

times a day; fares, 1st class, 16 
frs.; 2nd class, 13 frs. ; 3rd class, 10 
frs. The distance is eighty -five miles 
in four hours, passing 



Tourville - - . 


16 min 


Pt.-de-l'Arche - - - 


11 


St Pierre (Lou) - 


20 


Gaillon - - - - 


33 


Vernon - - - 


19 


Bonnieres - - - 


18 


Rosny - . . 


14 


MANTES 


17 


Epone - . - 


12 


Meulan - - - - 


16 


Trial - - - - 


12 


Poissy - - - - 


14 


Etoile de Confi - 


15 


Maisons - - - 


9 


PARIS 


29 



Steam-boats up the Seine to Pecq 
in seventeen to eighteen hours, and 
thence by railroad to Paris. 



P A E I S. 

TEN DAYS IN PARIS AND ITS ENVIRONS, 



A RESIDENCE of somc time in 
Paris enabled the author to arrange 
the following plan, as the means 
of saving much time, money, and 
disappointment — the limited visit 
of many persons allowing but a 
selection of the most interesting 
sights has thrown a confusion into 
their arrangements, not in any way 
lessened by the advice of those 
whose interest is procrastination. 

To enable the stranger to follow 
out the plan here adopted it wiU be 
only necessary to begin lionizing 
according to the period of arrival, 
and may be performed either on 
foot, in a carriage, or by taking an 
omnibus, as circumstances occur ; 
arriving, for instance, on Thursday, 
it wOl only be necessary to com- 
mence visiting the exhibitions, &c., 
under the head of Friday ; as a 
great number of the public build- 
ings are only open on certain days 
in the week, the selection has been 
made by which more may be seen 
in the quarter described under a 
particular day than on any other. 
The introduction wiU be foimd to 
contain a great deal of useful infor- 
mation, important both to the visi- 
tor and resident, and, deviating from 
the old beaten track, I have omitted 
all unnecessary description of places 
scarcely ever visited by strangers. 

Accommodation for Strangers. — 
Travellers, on their first arrival in 
Paris, will find it necessary to put 
up at a furnished hotel. Those who 
travel by the diligence may conve- 
niently accommodate themselves (if 
not recommended to any particular 



house) at any in the neighbourhood 
of the coach office, servants from 
which attend the arrival of the 
conveyances with cards. To what- 
ever hotel he goes, he will find him- 
self perfectly at his ease ; he may 
regulate his expenses according to 
his means or inclinations ; the bill 
of fare will show the cost of each 
article, and he may hire an apart- 
ment either by the day, week, or 
month. Persons who intend to con- 
tinue any length of time in Paris, 
or who may choose to domesticate 
themselves, will meet with ready- 
furnished apartments at all prices 
in private houses, mostly let by the 
month: there are also many board 
and lodging houses where strangers 
may meet with accommodation at 
from 100 to 200 francs per month. 
To persons whose stay in Paris 
may be uncertain, an apartment at 
an hotel is the most comfortable, 
he may dine at the table d'hote, 
and breakfast in the coffee room of 
the hotel, or breakfast and dine out 
if he pleases. 

A person's residence in an hotel 
will in no way influence the regu- 
lation of his meals. There are 
numerous restaurants and tables 
d'hotes in the best situations, of 
established reputation, in the Palais 
Royal, on the Boulevards, &c. &c. 
It is the custom to discharge the 
account weekly in an hotel, and 
when an arrangement for board 
and lodging is made, payment is 
made monthly in advance. 

A person wishing to leave his 
apartments in a private hotel, if 



}44 



PARIS.— MONDAY. PLACE BE CARROUSEL. 



liired by the month, is obliged to 
give a fortnight's warning ; by the 
fortnight, a week ; and by the 
week, four days. 

Proprietors of hotels are respon- 
sible for all losses incurred by the 
inmates of his house, provided the 
key of their chamber or apartment 
be left with the porter, except when 
there is a notice in the room that 
informs the traveller the maitre 
d'hotel will not be responsible for 
effects of value, unless they be 
deposited with himself Ihe pay 
of an ordinary valet de place is 
five francs per diem, but when en- 
gaged for a journey this sum is 
doubled. 

Paris Hotels. 

Htoel Meurice, rue de Rivoli ; H. 
lies Princes, 109 rue Richelieu ; H. 
Bedford, rue St. Honore ; H. du 
Rhin, place Vendome ; H. Bristol, 
5 place Vendome ; H. de Paris, 
111 rue Richelieu ; H. Wagram, 
28 rue de Rivoli ; Grand H, de 
Castiik, 113 rue Richelieu; H. 
Mirabeau, 6 rue de la Paix ; Grand 
H. de Hollande, 16 rue de la Paix ; 
H Chatam, 57 rue N. S. Augustin; 
Victoria Hotel, rue Chevau de la 
Garde. 

MONDAY. 

Starting from your hotel proceed 
at nine o'clock to the Place de 
Carrousel, military music and 
exercise by the national guards 
and troops of the line, about 
to mount guard in various 
parts of Paris : Palace of the 
Tuileries, Gardens, rue Cas- 
tiglione, place and column 
Vendome, rue de la Paix, 
boulevard Capucines, Minister 
of Foreign Affairs, Madeleine, 
rue Royal, place de la Concorde, 
Champs Elysees, Triumphal 
Arch, ascend to the top, beau- 
tiful view, outer boulevards to 
the rue opposite pont dJena, 
cross to Champ-de-Mars, Bar- 
racks formerly the Ecole Mili- 



taire, place de Eontenoy, ave- 
nue de Boufflers, Hotel des 
InvalideSjNapoleon's Tomb, Es- 
planade des Invalides, Chamber 
of Deputies and Palace Bour- 
bon, Pont de la Concorde, 
PalaceLegion d'honneur,Palace 
d'Orsay, Pont Royal, Tuileries 
Garden, take a chair and re- 
flect upon what you have seen, 
dine where you please ; after- 
wards go to the Academic 
Royal de Music, which is open 
on Mondays, Wednesdays, and 
Eridays. 

Place de Carrousel was formerly 
separated from the court of the 
palace of the Tuileries by an 
elevated wall ; for this a splendid 
iron railing has been substituted, 
erected on a wall four feet in height. 
It is supported from distance to 
distance by columns terminating in 
gilded balls, surmounted by points 
resembling the military columns of 
the Romans. In this railing are 
three gates ; that in the centre is 
opposite to the triumphal arch ; 
the other two have on each side of 
them masonry work surmounted 
by statues. Entering the place 
from the rue de Rivoli, the first is 
Victory, having a standard in one 
hand and a crown in the other ; 
the second is Peace, with a symbol 
of valour in one hand and a palm 
branch in the other : these are by 
Petitot. The two others, by Gerard, 
are France victorious, and History 
with a tablet and pencil. On the 
24th December, 1800, as Bonaparte, 
then first consul, was going to the 
opera, a machine, in the guise of a 
water cart, placed at the entrance 
of the rue St Nicaise, was ignited 
and blew up the moment the ma- 
gistrate's carriage was passing. 
This machine was afterwards 
known by the name of the machine 
infernale. The shock was dreadful: 
forty-six houses were injured by 
the explosion, eight persons killed, 



PARIS. — MONDAY. COUET OP THE TDILKKIES. 



245 



and twenty-eight others grievously 
■wounded; but the hopes of the 
contrivers of the plot were frus- 
trated, for the carriage of the con- 
sul escaped untouched, in conse- 
quence of the furious driving of 
the coachman, who, it is said, was 
inebriated. The houses which had 
received damage were pulled down, 
as much from their encumbering 
the square of the Carrousel as from 
the injury they had received. 

Triumphal Arch. — This monu- 
ment, which ornaments the prin- 
cipal entrance to the palace, was 
erected in 1806, from designs by 
Messrs Fontaine and Percier. It 
is sixty feet wide, by twenty and a 
half in thickness, and forty- five in 
lieight. Like the arch of Septimus 
Severus, which served for its model, 
it is composed of three arches in 
its width; but, unlike the former, 
in this monument these arches are 
intersected by a transversal arch. 
Its mass, in fine free- stone, is orna- 
mented on each of its principal 
facades with four double columns 
of the Corinthian order, with bases 
and capitals of bronze, which sup- 
port an entablature of which the 
frieze is of Italian griotta. These 
columns are crowned on each side 
by four statues, representing, on 
regarding them from the Carrousel, 
and beginning on the left of the 
spectator, a cuirassier^ by Launay ; 
a dragoon, by Corbet ; a chasseur a 
cheval, by Faucou ; a carabinier, by 
Chinard. On the fa9ade towards 
the Tuileries, beginning on the 
left hand, a grenadier de ligne, by 
Dardel ; a carabinier, by Montony; 
a canonier, by Bridan ; and a sapeur, 
by Dumont. The figures of Fame 
that adorn the fa9ade next the 
palace are by Taunay ; those 
facing the Place du Carrousel, by 
Dupasquier. Above the lateral and 
transversal openings are six bas- 
reliefs, representing the most me- 
morable actions of the campaign of 
1805. On the right? looking from 



the Place du Carrousel, is the Vic- 
tory of Austerlitz, by Espercieux ; 
on the left the Capitulation of Ulm^ 
by Castelier. Looking from the 
Tuileries on the right, is the Inter- 
view of the Emperors, by Ramey ; 
on the left, the Entry into Munich, 
by Claudion. On the north is the 
Entry into Vienna, by De Seine ; on 
the south, the Peace of Presburg, by 
Le Sueur. This monument was 
formerly crowned with a triumphal 
car, drawn by the four celebrated 
bronze horses, cast at Corinth two 
hundred years before the Christiaa 
era. The Komans having pillaged 
Corinth, the horses were carried to 
Rome ; from thence they were 
taken to Constantinople ; from this 
last town to Venice ; from Venice 
to Paris ; and thence back again to 
Venice, where they now are. These 
have been replaced by four horses 
of the same material, by Bosio. 
Critics say that these horses are at 
least equal to the ancient ones, 
whose chief claims to merit were 
their antiquity. 

The Court of the Tuileries, on the 
east side of the place, was formed 
principally by Napoleon. It is 
separated from the Place de Car- 
rousel by a handsome iron railing, 
with gilt spear-heads, extending 
parallel to the whole range of the 
palace. There are three gateways 
opening from this court into the 
Place de Carrousel, the middle one 
of which corresponds to the central 
pavilion of the palace; the other 
two have their pillars surmounted 
by colossal figures of Victory, 
Peace, History, and France. A 
gateway under each of the lateral 
galleries communicates on the north 
with the rue de Rivoli, on the south 
with the quai de Louvre. It was 
at the inner corner of the latter 
that the assassin Alibaud posted 
himself on the 25th of June, 1836, 
when he fired on King Louis 
Philippe. Where the iron rails 
now stand, there were rows of 
Q 2 



346 



PAKIS. — MONDAY. PALACE OP THE TUILEEIES. 



small houses and sheds before the 
Revolution; and this circumstance 
materially facilitated the attack 
on the palace by the mob on the 
10th of August, 1792. Napoleon 
used to review his troops in this 
vast court ; and the National 
Guard and troops who mount 
guard at the Tuileries, are in- 
spected here every morning, with 
military music. 

Palace of the Tuileries. — The 
ground on which this edifice stands 
was originally occupied by tile- 
kilns, whence the name is derived. 
The foundations of this kingly re- 
sidence were laid by Catherine 
de Medicis, in 1564. She built the 
centre pavilion in the front of the 
palace, with the ranges of building 
immediately adjoining, and the 
pavilions by which they are termi- 
nated. The designs for this part 
of the edifice were by Philibert 
Delorme and Jean BuUant. The 
palace was further enlarged under 
Henri IV and Louis XIII, by the 
architects Ducerceau and Duperac. 
Louis XIV employed Levau and 
d'Orbay to harmonize this exten- 
sive front, which he completed al- 
most in the state in which it exists 
at the present time. The fa5ade 
towards the court consists of five 
pavilions, connected together by 
four ranges of buildings. Almost 
every order of architecture is em- 
ployed in the embellishment of 
this fa9ade. The deviations from 
the original plan have destroyed the 
proportions required by the strict 
rules of art ; nevertheless, the 
architecture, though variously 
blended, presents at first sight an 
ensemble magnificent and striking. 
The front is adorned by Ionic pil- 
lars, above which, on the centre 
pavilions and the piles of building 
which connect them, appears the 
Corinthian order, surmounted by 
an attic story, above which is a 
balustrade. The two other ranges 
of building, with the pavilions which 



terminate them, are ornamented 
with fluted columns of the compo- 
site order. The front of the Pavi- 
lion de VHorloge is ornamented, on 
the ground floor, with banded 
columns of red marble of the 
Ionic order. lu niches on each 
side of the portico are antique 
marble statues, representingApollo, 
Moneta, and a faun. The upper 
stories, adorned by Corinthian and 
composite columns, in brown and 
red marble, support a pediment 
which contains a clock by Lepaut. 
On the pediment are two recum- 
bent statues, representing Justice 
and Prudence. Twenty-two marble 
busts ornament this fa9ade. 

The front towards the garden 
presents only three pavihons, de- 
corated with the Ionic and the 
Corinthian orders. On each side 
of the vestibule of the centre pa- 
vilion, which is ornamented in pre- 
cisely the same manner as towards 
the court, are ancient statues in 
marble, representing Mars and 
Minerva. On pedestals on each 
side of the entrance are lions in 
white marble. 

The gallery of the Louvre, bor- 
dering the Seine, was begun on 
the side next the Louvre by Henry 
IV, continued by Louis XIII, and 
I joined to the Pavilion de Flore by 
j Louis XIV. This gallery is 222 
I toises (1,332 feet) long. Its fa- 
' 9ades are crowned throughout its 
j whole length by alternate trian- 
I gular and semicircular pediments. 
I From the Tuileries to the Pavilion 
i de I'Horloge, these pediments are 
i supported by coupled columns of 
! the composite order, and from this 
point to the Louvre are two ranges 
of coupled pilasters placed one 
above the other. Those below are 
Doric, those above Corinthian. 
The resemblance of the pediments 
and windows render this striking 
diflerence in the style of architec- 
ture less remarkable. The ground 
floor of this edifice is pierced with 



PAElS.— MONDAY. PALACE OP THE TUILERIES. 



347 



arches, forming carriage and foot 
ways from the quai de Louvre to 
the Place de Carrousel. The se- 
cond story, in its whole length, is 
occupied by the picture gallery 
of the Louvre. A parallel gallery, 
of similar architecture, was begun 
in 1808, next the rue deEivoli: it 
commences at the Pavilion Marsan, 
and will be continued to the Louvre, 
where the constructions to which 
it is to be connected are already 
commenced. It serves for the resi- 
dence of the governor of the palace, 
and the Etat-Major-General of the 
National Guards. 

The grand western vestibule of 
this palace is decorated with Ionic 
<;olumns. On the side nearest the 
garden it communicates with co- 
vered galleries, one of which leads 
to the back staircase of the king's 
apartments, the other to the chapel, 
On the right is a magnificent stair- 
case, constructed by Levau and 
d'Orbay. It is skirted by a stone 
balustrade, ornamented with lyres 
and snakes under suns, the crest of 
Louis XrV; above are the arms of 
Colbert. On the landing place of 
the SaUe des Travees are two sta- 
tues of Silence, and seated statues 
of d'Aguesseau and I'Hopital. 
Hence a staircase leads to the 
Chapel, which is decorated with 
two orders of Doric columns, in 
stone and stucco. The background 
is occupied by the sanctuary and 
altar-piece; opposite is the king's 
pew, above which is the orchestra 
for the music: there are side pews 
for the ladies and officers of the 
household. On the ceiling of the 
antechamber, a small room former- 
ly occupied by the council of state, 
is a painting representing the 
Marechal de Saxe announcing the 
issue of the battle de Fontenoy to 
Louis XV. 

Behind the chapel on the same 
floor is the Theatre: it is orna- 
mented with Ionic columns, sup- 
porting four arches, on which rests 



! an eliptic dome. Opposite the stage 
is the king's box, on each side of 
which are amphitheatres for the 
ladies. The pit, the gallery, and 
the first tier of the boxes are occu- 
pied by the court and royal house- 
hold. Persons invited to the re- 
presentations take seats in the rez- 
de-chausee, in the loges grillees, and 
in the two rows of boxes above the 
amphitheatres. The decorations 
are elegant and rich. In order to 
convert it into a salle de bal, or ban- 
queting room, a flooring is laid 
down over the pit, level with the 
stage, and the decorations of the 
interior are repeated in the mov- 
able constructions erected in front 
of the proscenium. In this state 
it forms a magnificent saloon, light- 
ed by two lustres and a hundred 
chandeliers. 

The Salle des Marechaux occupies 
the whole of the centre paviHon. 
It is ornamented with full-length 
portraits of the living marshals of 
France. A balcony, suspended by 
consoles or brackets, extends round 
the room. On the side next the 
garden is a tribune, supported by- 
caryatides, copied from those in the 
Louvre by Jean Goujon. This room 
communicates with the Galerie 
Louis Philippe, which receives light 
from six windows on each side. It 
was formerly called the Salle des 
Gardes: its decorations are military, 
being painted en grisaille^ with mili- 
tary marches, battles, &c. Beyond 
this is the Salon de la Paix, which 
derives its name from a colossal 
statue of Peace, of which the model 
is by Chaudet. This room is em- 
bellished by magnificent lustres, 
bronzes, busts, superb vases, and 
rich furniture. The ceiling, painted 
by Loir, represents the rising sun 
gilding the earth with its first beams: 
Time is showing him the space he 
has to run : Spring, followed by 
Abundance and Fame, is proclaim- 
ing his benefits ; and the four quar- 
ters of the globe rejoice in his gifts. 



348 



PARIS. — MONDATi PALACE OF THE TUlLKRltS. 



The Salle du Trdne is contiguous. 
It receives light on the side next 
the court from three windows. In 
the centre of this apartment is a 
lustre of extraordinary beauty, and 
in the angle are rich candelabra. 
On the ceiling is a painting by Fie- 
mael, representing France protected 
by Religion. The next room is the 
Salle du Conseil, magnificent with 
gildings, paintings, and sculpture, 
executed in this age, but after the 
style of the time of Louis XIV. 
The same style is remarkable in the 
chimney-piece, on which M. Tau- 
nay has sculptured the History of 
France, surrounded by military tro- 
phies. Above is a fine timepiece 
by Lepaute. In this apartment are 
two beautiful tapestries from the 
Gobelins, one representing the 
painter Xeuxis choosing his mo- 
dels from among the most beauti- 
ful women of Greece ; and the other, 
Helen pursued by Paris. Two large 
vases of the manufacture of Sevres 
may also be observed here. On 
one of them is painted the enthu- 
siasm of the inhabitants of Paris, 
dragging the statue of Henry lY to 
the Pont Neuf ; on the other is the 
inauguration of the same statue. 
This room communicates with the 
king's bed-chamber. 

At the extremity of the state 
apartments is the Galerie de Diane, 
the ceiling of which is ornamented 
by copies of the paintings of the 
Farnese gallery, executed by the 
pupils of the French Academy. 
Large mirrors between the win- 
dows and at the two extremities of 
this room, in reproducing its orna- 
ments, seem to augment its extent. 
Some incidents in the life of Louis 
XIV are represented in tapestry of 
the Gobelins; and eight small pic- 
tures exhibit events in the life of 
Louis XVI and his predecessors. 
This apartment is also ornamented 
with two Egyptian vases of great 
beauty : they are of different kinds 
of marble, and eight feet in height, 
including the pedestals. 



Behind this gallery are the Ap- 
partements de service du JRoi : they 
look towards the garden, and the 
entrance to them is by the grand 
staircase in the Pavilion de Flore. 
They consist of an ante-chamber, 
serving as a guard room, a dining 
room, le Salon Bleu, the king's ca- 
binet, his dressing room, and bed 
chamber. The paintings on the 
ceilings in general allude to the 
education of Louis XIV; that in the 
guard room represents Mars mak- 
ing the tour of the globe, and mark- 
ing each month of the year by vic- 
tories. Nothing can exceed the 
king's bed chamber in richness and 
elegance ; the ceiling is painted en 
grisaille, and ornamented with cais- 
sons. It receives light by two win- 
dows on the side of the garden. 

The Queen's apartments are on 
the ground-floor ; the decorations, 
though less rich, are more tasteful. 
The dining room has but one win- 
dow, but the mirrors are so skil- 
fully distributed as to reflect an 
agreeable light through the whole 
apartment. A beautiful picture of 
the Three Graces, by Blondel, gives 
its name to the saloon in which it 
is placed. The concert and billiard 
rooms are also furnished in a splen- 
did manner. 

Tickets to view the receiving 
rooms may be had on application 
by letter to Monsieur le Gouverneur 
du Chateau des Tuileries. But the pri- 
vate apartments are not shown ex- 
cept the family are in the country. 
The attendants expect three or four 
francs. 

Passing from the court of the 
palace under an arch we enter the 
Garden, containing about sixty- 
seven acres; in the time of Louis 
XIII this beautiful spot was sepa- 
rated from the palace by a street. 
It composed an orchard, a fish-pond, 
a menagerie, a theatre, the hotel de 
Mdlle de Guise, and a garden which 
the great men of the time frequented 
in pleasure parties. Louis XIV 



PARIS. MONDAY. PLACE VENDOME AND COLUMN. 



349 



commanded Le Notre to lay out 
this ground in a style worthy the 
majesty of his crown. Never was 
prince bettered obeyed : the genius 
of this great man has created a gar- 
den in which everything is at once 
grand, simple, and symmetrical, but 
without monotony; where each ob- 
ject is in its exact place, and in its 
proper proportions. The descent of 
the ground, which inclines towards 
the Seine, has been remedied by 
surrounding the garden with ter- 
races. In front of the palace ex- 
tends an immense parterre, glow- 
ing with all the varied tints of the 
rainbow, and changing with every 
season: beyond it is a plantation 
of elms and chesnut trees, and at 
the extremity of this plantation is 
an octagonal piece of water. The 
grand alley in the garden, which 
conducts from the centre pavilion 
of the palace to this point, extends 
beyond the garden through the 
Champs Elys^es up to the Arc de 
Triomphe de I'Etoile, which, from 
the road being throughout of the 
same v/idth, and of gentle ascent, 
offers a perspective view of no com- 
mon beauty. The entire garden is 
profusely decorated with statues and 
marble vases. During the fine sea- 
son, the borders of all the alleys and 
avenues are studded with orange 
trees and laurel roses. 

This alley with the adjoining ter- 
race is the most fashionable prome- 
nade, both in summer and winter; 
all the gayest of the gay world of 
the capital are to be found here; 
some seated on the chairs, which 
are let out at two sous a-piece, 
many walking, and others lounging 
with their friends. On Sunday 
afternoons, the crowd, if not so se- 
lect, is much more numerous, and 
the orange alley frequently forms a 
compact mass, presenting every va- 
riety and colour of dress adopted 
for the moment by the fickle taste 
of the Parisians. The garden of 
the Tuileries is also the favourite 



rendezvous of children and elderly 
gentlemen, who may be seen econo- 
mising on cold stone seats reading 
the newspapers. The immense size 
of this garden, and the white mar- 
ble of the statues, produce a pleas- 
ing effect contrasted with the flowers 
or the foliage of the trees. Persons 
in working dress, or carrying any 
parcels except books, are not allow- 
ed to enter it. The gardens are 
opened from seven in the morning 
till dusk in winter, till nine in sum- 
mer; and in fine weather, while the 
royal family are resident in the pa- 
lace, bands of the different regi- 
ments play before the Pavilion de 
I'Horloge at about seven o'clock in 
the evening. The gardens at the 
time of closing are always cleared 
by beat of drum, and a company of 
soldiers. 

On the right of the gardens is 
the beautiful street Rue Rivoli, built 
on the site of the Convent des 
Feuillants ; to encourage the build- 
ing of a handsome and uniform 
street, such as it is, the proprie- 
tors were freed from government 
taxes for a period of thirty years. 
Where the tricoloured flag is seen 
waving is the 

Hotel des Finances — This vast 
constructure occupies a spacious 
tract of ground comprised between 
the rues de Rivoli, de Castiglione, 
du Mont Thabor, and Neuve du 
Luxembourg. The fronts next the 
two former streets are uniform with 
the other houses, being five stories 
high, with arcades on the ground 
floor, forming a covered way. The 
building comprises several courts, 
around which are ranged all the 
ofiices connected with the adminis- 
tration of the finances of the king- 
dom, a 

Turning into the Rue Castig- 
lione the stranger will perceive the 

Place Vendome and Column. — This 
spot owes its name to the hotel of 
Cesar de Vendome, which was 
formerly situated here. It was 



350 



PARIS. — MONDAY. PLACE VERDOME AND COLUMN. 



formed from 1699 to 1701, on the 
designs of Mansard. This place is 
in form of an elongated octagon, 
the four smaller sides of which are 
of equal length ; while the longer 
and opposite sides are 450 and 420 
feet respectively. An equestrian 
statue of Louis XIV was erected 
in the centre of this place in 1699, by 
Girardon. This statue was de- 
stroyed in 1792. An elegant co- 
lumn has been erected on its site. 

The column is of the Tuscan 
order, in imitation of the pillar of 
Trajan at Kome, of which it pre- 
serves the proportions on a scale 
larger by one -twelfth. Its total 
elevation is fully 135 feet, and the 
diameter of the shaft is 12 feet. The 
pedestal is 21 feet in height, and 
from 19 to 20 in breadth. The 
pedestal and shaft are built of 
stone, and covered with bas-reliefs, 
in bronze, representing the various 
victories of the French army, com- 
posed of 1,200 pieces of cannon 
taken from the Kussian and Aus- 
trian armies. The bronze em- 
ployed in this monument was about 
360,000 pounds weight. The bas- 
reliefs of the pedestal represent the 
uniforms, armour, and weapons of 
the conquered troops. Above the 
pedestals are garlands of oak, sup- 
ported at the four angles by eagles 
in bronze, each weighing 500 
pounds. The double door of mas- 
sive bronze, is decorated with 
crowns of oak, surmounted by an 
eagle of the highest finish ; above 
is a bas-relief, representing two 
figures of Fame, supporting a 
tablet ; the bas-reliefs of the shaft 
pursue a spiral direction from the 
base to the capital, and display, in 
chronological order, the principal 
^actions of the campaign, from the 
departure of the troops from Bou- 
logne to the battle of Austerlitz. 
The figures are three feet high ; 
their number is said to be 2,000, 
and the length of the spiral band 
840 feet. A cordon or band, ascend- 



ing in the same direction as the 
bas-reliefs, divides them, and bears 
inscriptions of the actions which 
they represent. Above the capital 
is a gallery, which is approached 
by a winding staircase of 176 steps. 
The capital is surmounted by an 
acroterium, upon which was origi- 
nally placed a statue of Napoleon 
in the heroic costume. This was 
destroyed in 1814, and melted down 
to form part of the horse of Henry 
IV, now on the Pont Neuf. After 
the Restoration it was replaced by 
a fleur-de-lis and a flag-staff r but 
on the 1st of May, 1833, the present 
statute of Napoleon was fixed upon 
the summit. The ceremonial of its 
installation took place in presence 
of the king, the royal family, the 
ministers and municipal function- 
aries, on July 28th succeeding. It 
is eleven feet high, habited in the 
favourite costume of the emperor. 
This sumptuous monument stands 
upon a plain plinth of polished gra- 
nite, surrounded by an iron railing ; 
and from its vast size and happy 
position produces a grand effect 
when seen from the Boulevard or 
the gardens of the Tuileries ; and 
the total cost of its erection was 
1,500,000 francs. As a view of 
Paris may be much easier obtained, 
I do not recommend persons to 
ascend this column, as it is quite 
dark, but from those who may 
choose to go up, the guardian ex- 
pects a small gratuity, who fur- 
nishes the visitor with a lantern, 
which is indispensable. The hours 
of admission are from ten to six in 
summer, and ten to four in winter. 

In the Place Vendome is the resi- 
dence of the Minister of Justice and 
offices of the Etat- Major. 

In the Rue de la Paix, one of the 
cleanest and widest of the trading 
streets of Paris, on the left, is the 

Hotel du Timbre, or stamp office. 
Opposite are the barracks of the 
Sapeurs Pompiers. 

The battalion of sapeurs- pom- 



PARIS. — MONDAY. PLACE DE LA CONCORDE. 



351 



piers, or soldier firemen, contains 
636 men and officers, and is divided 
into four companies ; 134 are on 
duty every day at the theatres, 
and the remainder are in the 
guard-houses in the diflferent ar- 
rondissements ; a great number of 
engines and other means of extin- 
guishing fires are at their dis- 
posal. At the end of the Eue de 
la Paix is the Boulevard Capucines ; 
turning to the left, we pass the 

Hotel des Affaires Etrangeres. — On 
reaching the extremity of the Bou- 
levards, we stand before the beauti- 
ful and chaste building, the 

Madeleine. — ^Louis XV ordained 
the construction of this edifice ; 
the first stone was laid in 1764. 
Goustant d'lvry formed the plans ; 
but after his death, in 1777, great 
changes were made by Couture, his 
successor. By order of Napoleon, 
who conceived the project of con- 
verting this edifice into a temple of 
Glory, the plans were once more 
modified by Vignon; but on the re- 
turn of Louis XIII, its original plan 
was resumed. The expenses in- 
curred in building and pulling down 
were enormous. This church, one 
of the finest buildings of the capital, 
constructed at length under the 
direction of M. Huve, has the shape 
and simplicity of an ancient temple. 
It is in the form of a rectangle, of 
about 326 feet by 130, is raised on a 
basement eight feet, 326 high, and 
surrounded by a peristyle, formed 
by fifty-two Corinthian colnmns. 
On the north and south are two 
porticos, surmounted by triangular 
pediments. A bas-relief, 118 feet 
in length by 22 in height, composed 
of nineteen figures, ornaments the 
southern front. The Magdalen is 
represented at the feet of Jesus sup- 
plicating the forgiveness of sinners. 
On the left of the spectator, Angels 
are seen contemplating the con- 
verted sinner. The Saviour sent 
on earth to call the just, suffers In- 
nocence to approach, supported by 



Faith and Hope ; Charity, taking 
care of two children, cannot follow 
her sisters, but points out by her 
expression the place reserved in 
heaven for the virtuous. In an 
angle an angel receives the soul of 
a saint quitting the tomb, and shows 
him the abode of his new state. On 
the right, an avenging angel with a 
flaming sword drives before him 
Envy, Lewdness, Hypocrisy, and 
Avarice. In the angle, a demon 
hurls the souls of the damned int» 
everlasting flames. The roof is en- 
tirely formed of iron and copper, 
and is ninety feet in height. The 
effect of the exterior is similar to 
that of the Parthenon at Athens j 
and the most favourable place for 
viewing it is from the opposite side 
of the boulevard, The interior is 
one of the most splendid in Europe, 
and it rivals, in some respects, the 
magnificence of St Peter's at Kome. 
The first religious ceremony per- 
formed here was over the body of 
M. Humann, Minister of Finance, 
30th April, 1842. 

Near the Madeleine is a small but 
well-supplied market; on the espla- 
nade east of the edifice a flower 
market is held on Tuesdays and 
Fridays. 

Proceeding down the Rue Royale, 
at No. 2 is the hotel and offices of 
the minister of marine and colonies, 
to the 

Place de la Concorde. — ^Place de 
Louis XV, de la Revolution, or de 
la Concorde. This fine place has 
borne successively these three 
names. Its length from north to 
south is 750 feet, and from east to 
west, 528. It is in form of an octa- 
gon, is marked out by fosses, seven- 
ty-two feet broad by fourteen deep, 
encompassed by balustrades, and 
terminated by eight pavilions. 
Placed in the centre of this place, 
one enjoys a fine coup d'oeil: on the 
north two spacious and magnificent 
edifices, the Marine and ancient 
Garde-Meuble, which, separatecijby 



352 



PARIS. — MONDAY. LUXOR COLUMK. L'EfOILE. 



the Hue Eoyale, presents a view of 
the church of the Madeleine; to the 
south of the fine bridge Louis XVI, 
serving as an avenue to the Cham- 
ber of Deputies; to the east the 
garden of the Tuileries, and on the 
west the avenue of the Champs 
Ely sees, presenting in perspective 
the Arc de Triomphe de I'Etoile. 
In the middle is erected the obelisk 
erf Luxor, and on each side are ele- 
gant fountains. 

Between the lines of road that 
cross the place, bordering each 
fosse, have been laid down com- 
partments of Seyssel asphalte. The 
fosses are planted in gardens, and 
the corners of the place are crossed 
by bridges, placed diagonally. On 
the large pedestals of the parapets 
are twenty handsome rostral co- 
lumns, bearing lamps, and sur- 
mounted by gilded globes. Along 
the internal edges of the parades are 
forty iron lamp-posts, half of which 
are furnished with cocks at their 
bases for watering the place. The 
eight pavilions, having been re- 
stored and re-adorned, are sur- 
mounted with allegorical figures 
of the principal towns in France, 
viz., Lille and Strasburg, by Pra- 
dier; Bordeaux and Nantes, by Cal- 
houet; Marseilles and Brest, by 
Cortot ; Rouen and Lyons, by Peti- 
tot. On the sides of the pavilions 
are oval medallions, incrusted with 
various marbles, and surrounded by 
richly sculptured wreaths. In the 
centre is the 

Obelisk of Luxor. — This relic of 
ancient Egypt is one of two obe- 
lisks that stood in front of the great 
temple of Thebes, the modern Luxor, 
where they were erected 1550 years 
before Christ, by Rhamses III, of 
the eighteenth Egyptian dynasty, 
hotter known in history as the great 
Sesostris. The two monoliths were 
given by Mehemet Ali, Viceroy of 
Egypt, to the French government, 
together with one of Cleopatra's 
Needles, near Alexandria, in con- 



sideration of the advantages con^ 
ferred by France on Egypt in aiding 
to form the modern arsenal and 
naval establishment of Alexandria. 
Continue up the 

Champs Elysees. — On the left, to- 
wards the river, and opposite the 
Invalides, is an exhibition of Pano- 
ramic Views, well worthy a visit, 
and on the right, higher up, is the 
handsome Cirque National. 

The annual Promenade de Lori^- 
champ takes place in the Champs 
Elysees and the Bois de Boulogne 
on the Wednesday, Thursday, and 
Friday, of Passion-week. At the 
extremity is 

The Arc de Triomphe de VEtoile. — 
This magnificent and commanding 
monument was begun in 1806, at 
the suggestion of Napoleon. The 
events of 1815 suspended the works ; 
they were, however, renewed in 
1823, but continued slowly until 
1836, when this stupendous monu- 
ment, which had been successively 
under the direction of nine archi- 
tects, was completed. The total 
height of the whole edifice is 152 
feet, and its width and thickness 
are 137 feet and 68 feet respectively. 
Each of the groups is thirty-six feet 
high, and each figure eighteen feet. 

The northern pier of the eastern 
principal face has on its pedestal 
a group representing the Departure, 
by Rude. War summons the French 
of all ages to the defence of their 
country. Group on the left, the 
Triumph, Napoleon crowned by Vic- 
tory ; prostrate cities render him 
homage ; Fame proclaims his mighty 
deeds ; History records them, &c. 
On the tympan of the arch, two 
figures of Fame by Pradier, and two 
bas-reliefs, one by Lemaire, comme- 
morating the funeral of General 
Marceau, and the other by Scurre 
the elder, representing Napoleon at 
the battle of Aboukir receiving the 
prisoners taken by Murat. Facing 
the Faubourg du Roule, a has relief 
by Gechter, the battle of Austerlitz, 



PARIS. — MONDAY. HOTEL DES INVALIDES. 



353 



Napoleon at the head of the impe- 
rial guard, the Russians battered 
by the artillery, and suffocated in a 
pond, whither they had retreated. 
The tympan of the small arch is by 
Bra ; it represents the arms of the 
infantry under the figures of a 
grenadier and a chasseur. On the 
side next to Neuilly, on the right, 
the Resistance, by Etex. This 
group represents a young man de- 
fending his wife, his children, 
and his father ; behind him is a 
cavalier falling wounded from his 
horse ; whilst the Genius of the 
Future hovers over and encourages 
them. On the left is a warrior 
sheathing his sword; by his side, 
a woman and two children; behind, 
a soldier returned from the wars, 
taming a bull for purposes of agri- 
culture ; and above Peace, protect- 
ing agriculture and commerce. 
The bas-relief on the right side re- 
presents Bonaparte crossing the 
bridge of Arcole, and Colonel Mu- 
rion expiring at his feet. Bas- 
relief on the left, by Chaponniere, 
the capture of Alexandria by Kle- 
ber, who is wounded in the head. 
Facing Passy, bas-relief by Maro- 
chetti, the battle of Jemmapes; 
General Dumouriez at the head of 
his staff, cheering his soldiers; 
among the generals is seen the 
Due de Chartres (Louis Philippe), 
who commanded the centre. On 
the great vault, figures the Navy, 
by Scurre the younger ; on the left 
is a sailor, on the right a marine. 
The light and heavy artillery are 
designed by De Bay. The grand 
frieze below the entablature is due 
to the chisel of Brun, Jacquot, 
Laitie, &c. In the centre, on the 
side facing Paris, the representa- 
tives of the people distributing 
flags to chiefs of the different 
armies ; the troops preparing to 
march. On the lateral fronts and 
on that towards Neuilly is repre- 
sented the return of the victorious 
axmies, loaded with the spoils of 



the vanquished ; in the centre, 
France regenerated, accompanied 
by Prosperity and Abundance dis- 
tributing crowns. The public are 
admitted to ascend to the top from 
nine till dusk. On descending take 
the outer boulevards to the opening 
opposite to the 

Pont (T Jena. — One of the sim- 
plest and finest bridges of the 
capital. This bridge was attempted 
to be blown up by the Prussians in 
1814. After passing over this 
bridge we enter on the 

Champ de Mars, which forms a 
parallelogram of 2,700 feet by 900, 
encompassed by a foss6 and mason- 
woik. In this place are held the 
annual races. The garrison troops 
and the national guards are also 
reviewed here. 

Ecole Militaire, Champ de Mars, 
founded in 1752 for the reception 
of 500 young noblemen, whose 
fathers died poor in the service, 
but suppressed in 1787. It now 
forms a barracks for, and is capa- 
ble of holding 4,000 men. The 
principal front is in the Place de 
Fontenoy, from whence we pro- 
ceed by the Avenue de Boufflers to 
the 

Hotel des Jnvalides. — It is here 
that the veterans who have fought 
and bled for their country find a 
calm retreat when age or wounds 
remove them from their military 
career. 

Officers and privates are paid 
and lodged in proportion to their 
rank. The governor has 40,000 fr. 
per annum, with free lodging. All 
soldiers who are actually disabled 
by their wounds, or who have 
served thirty years, are entitled to 
the privileges of this institution. 
The officers breakfast at half- 
past ten, and dine at five. The 
sub-officers and privates, being 
numerous, are divided into three 
parties to take their meals, viz. — 
first party breakfast at half-past 
eight, dinner at four ; second party, 



354 



PARIS. — MONDAY. CHAMBER OF DEPUTIES, 



breakfast at nine, dinner at half- 
past four ; third party, breakfast 
at ten, dinner at five. They have 
all some soup early in the morning 
besides. The soldiers have for 
breakfast, soup, beef, and a dish of 
vegetables ; for dinner, a ragout, 
with vegetables, or eggs and vege- 
tables. Each man also receives a 
litre of wine, and a pound and half 
of white bread daily. Each man 
has his bed, straw mattress, and 
bolster, with a small cupboard for 
his clothes. Great order, cleanhness, 
and comfort prevail. In the distri- 
bution of meat, wine, and clothing, 
if any person does not choose to 
consume the quantity of his allow- 
ance, he may receive an equivalent 
for it in money. The hotel will 
hold .5,000 invalids, but at present 
there are not more than 3,500 in 
it. They all wear the same uni- 
form. On entering, take the left 
corridor, and the extreme end will 
lead into a small court; in the right 
hand corner a door will lead to 

NapoleorCs Tomb. — Within the 
Chapel of St Jerome the ashes of 
Napoleon lie in state, surrounded 
by violet coloured velvet drapery, 
richly embroidered with gold orna- 
ments and festooned, the centre 
being ornaniented with shields and 
trophies of war. Between columns 
facing the entrance to the chapel is 
a raised base, on which is placed 
(but (X)vered with a velvet pall) 
the coffin which contains the ashes 
of the hero. Outside is the impe- 
rial crown, sword, and the little 
hat worn by Napoleon at Eylau. 
The flags which surround the tomb 
are those taken at the battle of 
Austerlitz, surmounted by a large 
eagle. A gas-lamp burns night 
and day, and on the 20th of March, 
the 5th of May, the I5th August, 
and some others, all the ancient 
chandeliers are lighted and placed 
around the coffin. The sides of the 
chapel are covered with drapery, 
which is ornamented with a gold 



cross, the imperial arms, and other 
devices ; it forms an altar. The 
chapel is enclosed within iron gates, 
outside of which are placed four 
soldiers belonging to the Hotel des 
Invalides, whose duty is to watch 
the chapel day and night. I be- 
lieve this is no longer exhibited — 
February, 1845. 

Palais Bourbon. — This palace, at 
the time of the revolution, was in 
possession of the Prince de Cond^, 
and was one of the first edifices 
plundered by the mob. In 1795 it 
was chosen for the sittings of the 
Council of Five Hundred. It con- 
sists of a projecting mass, in which 
is the portico, crowned by an im- 
mense pediment, supported by 
twelve Corinthian pillars. In the 
tympanum of the pediment is a 
bas-relief in plaster, by Fragonard, 
representing Law reposing on 
tablets of the Charter, sustained by 
{Strength and Justice. On the left, 
Peace is conducting Commerce; 
and on the right, Abundance ad- 
vances under the auspices of the 
Law ; the Arts and Sciences follow 
in the train. The angles are occu- 
pied by allegorical images of the 
Seine, the Marne, and the Khine. 
The portico is elevated on a plat- 
form, to which the ascent is by a 
flight of twenty-eight steps up- 
wards of 100 feet in width. At the 
foot of the steps, on pedestals, 
eighteen feet in elevation, are two 
statues, one representing Justice, 
the other Prudence. Four colossal 
statues are placed on curule chairs 
on each side of this flight of steps. 
They represent Sully, Colbert, 
L'Hopital, and Daguesseau. 

Chamber of Deputies. — To visit 
the chamber and its various appen- 
dages, no formality is requisite 
beyond demanding permission at 
the door ; but to hear the debates, 
a letter, addressed to one of the 
deputies, will obtain a ticket ; but 
strangers will find it the readiest 
way to go to the door of the Chami- 



PAJSIS.— MONBAT. PALAIS d'oESAT. 



355 



ber early, where persons, who wait 
for admission, give up their places 
for 1 or 2 francs, according to the 
importance of the debate. The 
various apartments, library, &c. are 
behind. The Chamber itself is a 
semi-circular hall, ornamented with 
twenty four columns of white mar- 
ble of the Ionic order, having 
capitals of bronze gilt. The presi- 
dent's chair and the tribune form 
the centre of the axis of the semi- 
circle, from which rise the seats of 
the 459 Deputies, in the shape of 
an amphitheatre, to the height of 
the basement which supports the 
columns. The whole is fitted up 
in red cloth and gold. Over the 
president's chair, upon the wall 
which faces the assembly, is a large 
painting, representing King Louis 
Philippe swearing to the Charter 
in the Chamber of Deputies, on the 
9th of August, 1830. In the inter- 
columniations are placed statues of 
Order and Liberty. A marble 
bas-relief is placed under the great 
picture. A spacious double gallery, 
capable of containing 500 persons, 
runs round the semi-circular part 
of the Chamber, and is fitted up 
with tribunes for the Royal family, 
the corps diplomatique, and the 
public. The seats of the deputies 
are so contrived that each has a 
place for writing on immediately 
in front of him ; half of the lower 
bench is reserved for the ministers. 
Immediately under the tribune, in 
front of the President's chair, are 
two small desks, for the reporters 
of the oflScial journal, the Moniteur, 
who relieve each other in taking 
notes of the debate. A deputy, 
when addressing the Chamber, aS' 
cends the tribune, and harangues 
his colleagues. 

Opposite the front entrance is 
the Pont de la Concorde. 

Palais de la Legion <f Honneur. 
This elegant edifice was construct- 
ed after designs by Rosseau, for 
the Prince de Salm» in 1786. The 



prince having faUen a victim to 
the frenzy of the times in which 
he existed, his residence became 
alienated. 

In 1803 it was bought by the 
government, and at the time of the 
creation of the Legion of Honour, 
this palace was chosen for the 
inauguratiou. 

Purther on is the 

Palais d^Orsay. This is one of 
the most magnificent edifices of the 
capital. It was begun during the 
internal administration of the Duke 
de Cadore, in the time of Napoleon, 
and was intended for the Minister 
of Foreign Affairs. Charles X 
intended it to be used as a palace 
for the exhibition of the productions 
of French industry. This edifice 
consists of a vast court, surrounded 
by four magnificent piles of build- 
ing, and two smaller courts, form- 
ing, with their buildings, wings to 
the principal mass of the edifice. 
Towards the river the grand front 
presents a long line of windows 
formed by arches under a Tuscan 
colonnade, above which is a similar 
series of the Ionic order, and over 
this a bastard Corinthian attic. 
The lower story here is flanked at 
both ends by a balustraded platform 
laid out as a garden. An iron 
railing passes along the river front 
of the edifice. The court is sur- 
rounded by a double series of 
arcades, and galleries above, the 
ceilings of which are painted to 
represent panelling in diflerent 
kinds of wood richly gilt. There 
are four staircases, one at each 
corner of the court. The escalier 
d'honneur is really magnificent in 
construction and splendid in deco- 
ration. The ground floor of the 
central part is appropriated to the 
Council of State and the dependent 
offices ; the first floor to the Cour 
des Comptes ; and the third story 
to the archieves of these two public 
bodies. This edifice has cost up- 
wards of twelve millions. For per- 



356 



PARIS. -TUESDAY PALATS ROYAL. 



mission to view this palace appli- 
cation must be made by letter, 
post-paid, to M. le Secretaire- 
General du Conseil d" Elat, palais 
d'Orsay. Adjoining it is a large 
barrack for cavalry, formerly the 
Hotel des Gardes du Corps. 

The next object, after passing 
this building, is the Hotel Praslin, a 
magnificent mansion, situated part- 
ly on the quay, where its terrace 
will be perceived, but its entrance 
and front are in the Kue de Lille. 
This is one of the largest and most 
sumptuous of the residences of the 
old nobility. 

Pont Royal, which commands a 
fine view of Paris, both up and 
down the course of the Seine. 

Passing through the gate into 
the garden of the Tuileries, a very 
difierent scene presents itself com- 
pared with that of the morning ; 
groups of fashionable dressed 
persons are now congregated, and 
two sous may be invested to ad- 
vantage. 

TUESDAY. 

Palais Royal, left into Rue Neuve- 
des-Petits- Champs, right into 
Rue Richelieu. Royal Library, 
open on Tuesdays and Fridays, 
from ten till three o'clock. 
Place Richilieu, Fountain, Rue 
Filles St Thomas, Place de la 
Bourse, Exchange, Theatre 
Vaudeville. Descending the 
Rue Vivienne, to the left into 
passages Vivienne and Colbert, 
Church of Petits Peres, Bank, 
Place des Victoires, Statue of 
Louis XIV ; from thence 
through small streets, named 
Reposoir, Pagevin, and Verde - 
let into the Rue Jean Jacques 
Rosseau, Post Office. To the 
right into Rue Sartine, right 
hand round the Halle au Ble, 
AncientColumn ; cross through 
the Halle, out between Nos 7 
and 8, into Rue Oblin, to the 
Church of St Eustache, Fish 



Market, Halles for the sale of 
Butter, Cheese, Vegetables, 
Marche des Innocents, Foun- 
tain, Rue St Denis ; right to 
the Place du Chatelet, Column ; 
to the right along the quais to 
the Church of St Germaint 
I'Auxerrois, Louvre. 

Palais Ro'ial. — The Palais Royal, 
originally Palais Cardinal Richelieu, 
built in 1629, on the site of the 
ancient hotels de Rambouillet, de 
Mercoeur, and de Brion, after de- 
signs by Lemercier. As the Car- 
dinal's fortunes continued to in- 
crease he continued to embelUsh 
his palace, till at length he consi- 
dered it worthy to be left as a 
legacy to Louis XIII. Louis XIV 
resided here with his mother during 
the troubles of the Fronde, and it 
is from this circumstance that it 
derives its name. At this time 
was formed the place in front of 
the palace. When Louis ascended 
the throne, he bestowed this palace 
upon his brother the Duke of Or- 
leans, for life. After his death, in 
1693, it finally passed into the 
possession of this branch of the 
Royal family, in the person of 
Philip of Orleans, his nephew, 
upon his marriage with Mademoi- 
selle de Blois. It was augmented 
and embellished in 1763. The gal- 
leries which surround the garden 
were constructed in 1786, except 
the Galerie d'Orleans, which was 
finished in its present state at the 
time of the late reparations in 1829* 
This palace and its gardens have 
been the scene of many events re- 
corded in French history. The 
late Duke of Orleans, father to the 
present king, having exhausted 
his revenues by an unparalleled 
course of profligacy, for the sake 
of replenishing his coffers, convert^ 
ed this princely residence into an 
immense bazaar, parcelling it out 
into little shops, which were speedi- 
ly let to the highest bidders; other 



PARIS.— TUESDAY. PALAIS ROYAL. 



357 



apartments were converted into 
sale rooms, cafes, ball rooms, and 
saloons for gambling and every 
species of debauchery. At this 
time the palace was called Palais 
Egalite. More recently, after the 
execution of that prince, a spacious 
hall was fitted up for the sittings 
of the Tribunal, and the building 
then assumed the name of Palais 
du Tribunal. It recovered its for- 
mer title in the time of Napoleon; 
and its ancient possessors at the 
period of the restoration, in the 
family and persons of Louis Phi- 
lippe, then Duke of Orleans, now 
king of the French. The garden 
was the scene of some of the first 
revolutionary meetings ; at one of 
which, in 1789, the tricoloured 
cockade was adopted. 

The splendid Galerie d' Orleans 
lately substituted for the ignoble 
wooden galleries which so long dis- 
graced the palace and garden, and 
which unites the pavilions and 
completes the ensemble of the second 
court, is three hundred feet in length 
and thirty in width, and forms an 
agreeable promenade in winter and 
wet weather. On each side are 
rows of shops, perfectly similar in 
size and exterior decoration, and 
separated from each other by pi- 
lasters and mirrors ; each shop has 
a double front, on one side looking 
towards the promenade and the 
court, on the other, towards the 
promenade and the garden. These 
shops, though only about eighteen 
feet square, and having for family 
accommodation only a small entre- 
sol and a cellar, are not let for less 
than 4000 francs per annum each. 

The garden forms a parallelogram 
of seven hundred feet by three hun- 
dred. In the centre are two grass- 
plots, surrounded by flawer beds, and 
slight iron railings. The one near 
the Galerie d'Orleans contains an 
Apollo Belvidere in bronze, and a 
Merldien a Detonation, the explosion 
of which announces the sun's pas- 



sage over the meridian. In the 
other is a Diana, likewise in bronze, 
and four modern statues in white 
marble, and representing Eurydice 
stung by a snake, Ulysses on the 
Sea-shore, a Boy struggling with a 
Goat, and a Young Man about to 
bathe. In a basin, sixty feet in 
diameter, between these grass-plots, 
is a fountain supplied from the 
canal de I'Ourcq ; the water, which 
rises to the height of twenty or 
thirty feet, falling in the form of a 
wheatsheaf. Near the angles of the 
garden are four pavilions, two are 
occupied by portrait-painters, in 
the two others, newspapers are lent 
out to read. On the ground floor 
is a row of 180 arcades of equal di- 
mensions throughout. The piers 
by which they are formed are or- 
namented with immense fluted pi- 
lasters of the composite order, sup- 
porting an attic crowned through- 
out by a balustrade. The galleries 
are separated from the garden by 
iron-railings and gates, and between 
each arcade is a stone bench for the 
accommodation of elderly people of 
the poorer class, or such fashionable 
loungers as prefer a stone accommo- 
dation to a wooden one ; the latter 
requiring, however, a modicum of 
two sous. Besides the above, 
around the grass plots, and more 
specially in the vicinity of the Oaf^ 
de la Eotonde (where has been 
purchased at a great price the privi- 
lege of serving liqueurs, etc. in the 
garden), are innumerable chairs, 
which, in the cool of the evening 
during summer, are crowded by 
well-dressed company, who take 
their ices, or sip their lemonade, 
their orgeat, or their cafe, at luxu- 
rious ease. 

Viewed on a fine summer even- 
ing, what with the bright gas lamps, 
flashing from under the arcades, 
what with those in the garden, the 
lamps in the brilliant shop-windows, 
those in the cafes and other estab- 
lishments above the gallery, the 



358 



PARIS -TUESDAY. PALAIS ROYAL. 



whole presents a lightness, airmess, 
and elegance, unrivalled by any 
building of any other capital. The 
Palais-Koyai is the resort of all 
classes, for business or pleasure ; it 
is the heart of Paris, the emporium 
of Fashion. The shops which sur- 
round the garden offer a profusion 
of all that can satisfy the luxury or 
the vanity of man. 

Shops of millinery, jewellery, 
clothiery, booksellers, clock-sellers, 
printsellers, china-houses, coffee- 
houses, bagnios, money-changers 
and gamesters, all unite in amicable 
rivalry to ease the unwary idler of 
his money. Let a man walk under 
any of these arcades, at any hour 
of the day or night, and he will 
never want food either for medita- 
tion or amusement. It would be 
no difficult matter to pass ones 
whole life in the Palais- Royal, with- 
out feeling the necessity of going 
one step beyond its walls ; there is 
no want, either natural or artifi- 
cial, no appetite of the grosser or 
more refined order, no wish for the 
cultivation of the mind or decora- 
tion of the body, no sensual or spi- 
ritual humour, which would not 
here find food, gratification, and 
perpetual variety. No age, no sta- 
tion, no temper could ever leave it 
without an ardent desire to return; 
the sight is first caught, and the 
other senses follow in rapid succes- 
sion. 

The restaurateurs in the Palais- 
Royal are considered the most fa- 
mous ; their larders are the choicest, 
their bills of fare the longest, and 
their dining-rooms the most ele- 
gant in Paris; you have in them 
the choice of more than a hundred 
dishes, above twenty sorts of des- 
serts, upwards of twenty kinds 
of wine, and more than twenty 
species of liqueurs : the charge at 
most of them is two francs, includ- 
ing half a bottle of wine. 

The coffee-houses form another 
point of meeting for the multitude 



who do not go merely for taking a 
walk, or who choose to recreate 
themselves after walking. The 
commodities, as well as the prices, 
are alike in aU the coffee-houses in 
the Palais-Royal, some of which are 
on the ground- floor, others upstairs, 
and a few are subterranean; a cup 
of coffee costs eight sous; a glass of 
Cognac brandy six sous, a glass of 
liqueur eight sous, a tumbler of 
lemonade, orgeat, or biravoise, just 
the same ; a glass of ice one franc, 
a breakfast of tea costs thirty-six 
sous. 

If the stranger be in want of a 
suit of clothes, here he may be fur- 
nished by the time he has perused 
the newspapers ; in short, it is on 
this spot one may witness every 
scene that can well be imagined, 
and here every wish may be grati- 
fied : but care must be taken you 
do not pay too dearly for the gra- 
tification. 

The concourse of people in the 
Palais-Royal is never at an end ; 
its company is the most numerous 
(i. e., was), the most brilliant, of 
any of the places of resort in this 
city. The gardens of the Tuileries, 
the Luxemburg, the Boulevards, 
in short none of the promenades, 
could be brought into comparison 
with this little world ; as Paris de- 
voured the marrow of Prance, so 
the Palais -Royal devoured the mar- 
row of Paris. 

The Palais-Royal was notorious 
for its gambling houses, but public 
gaming-tables are no longer al- 
lowed. 

The Theatre Prangais is also an 
appendage of the palace, having 
been formerly the private property 
of the Dukes of Orleans. A door 
from the palace still communicates 
with the royal box. 

The palace is now used for the 
accommodation of foreign princes 
during their stay in Paris, the 
interior of which may be seen on 
Sundays from one till four, on pre- 



PABIS. — TUESDAY. EOTAL LIBEAKT. 



35d 



senting passport. The entrance is 
in the Kue de Valois. 

After leaving the Palais Eoyal, 
at the upper end turning into the 
Kue Neuve-des-Petits-Champs, on 
the left, and Kue Kichelieu, on the 
right, we arrive at the 

Royal Library. Every author is 
bound to deposit in this Ubrary, 
within a certain time, gratuitously, 
a copy of his work. The number 
of Greek, Arabic, Latin, French, 
and other manuscripts, herein de- 
posited, amounts to more than 
75,000 volumes. It has a cabinet 
containing nearly 100,000 medals, 
without mentioning thousands of 
engraved stones, and other antiques. 
In the cabinet of engravings, 
amounting to about 1,600,000, and 
300,000 maps and plans, are seen 
the productions of Marc-Antoine, 
Kembrandt, &c. There are tables 
and chairs for those who wish to 
inspect the engravings, and the at- 
tendants are always ready to sup- 
ply any volume or portfolio that 
may be asked for.. 

The royal librar}-- is open for 
students, authors, &c., from ten 
tin three every day, except Sun- 
days and festivals. The rooms for 
study are warmed in winter with 
hot air stoves. Walking visitors 
are admitted to the library as well 
as to the cabinet of medals and an- 
tiques, and the cabinet of engrav- 
ings, from ten till three on Tues- 
days and Fridays. Passports give 
no special right of entry. The va- 
cation commences 1st September, 
and ends on 15th October, during 
which period the library is closed. 

Place Richelieu, with its splendid 
new fountain. On this now open 
space the French Opera-house for- 
merly stood, at the door of which, 
Duke de Berri was assassinated in 
1820. 

Proceeding towards the Boule- 
vards, the Rue Filles St Thomas 
leads into the Place de la Bourse ; 
at the corner is the 



Theatre Vaudeville, formerly the 
Opera Comique. It presents a 
narrow front, ornamented with co- 
lumns of the Ionic and Corinthian 
orders, pilastres, and niches, in 
which statues are placed. The in- 
terior is of a circular form, and 
holds 1,200 persons. 

Bourse (Exchange). This build- 
ing is one of the most magnificent 
in Europe. Its form is a parallelo- 
gram of 212 feet by 126. It is sup- 
ported by sixty-six Corinthian co- 
lumns ; the interior is suitably 
arranged for business, and orna- 
mented with sixteen paintings 
in grisaille. The erection cost 
8,149,000 frs. 

Descending the Kue Vivienne on 
the left hand side of the street are 
the Passages Vivienne and Colbert i 
by entering the first and making a 
little detour, a side passage will 
lead to the 

Church of Petits-Pires, Place des 
Petits-Peres, first district church 
of an arrondissement. This church 
was erected in 1056, on the site of 
one dedicated by Louis XIII to 
Notre Dame des Victoires, in com- 
memoration of his victories, and 
the capture of La Kochelle, and 
serving as the chapel to a com- 
munity of bare-footed Augustin 
monks. 

Opposite the church is the Fon- 
taine des Petit-Peres, constructed in 
1671. Close by is the 

Banque de France. — Its capital is 
90,000,000 fr. ; it issues notes of 
500 fr. and 1,000 fr., payable to the 
bearer at sight ; discounts bills of 
exchange or to order, at dates not 
exceeding three months ; advances 
money on bullion, or foreign gold 
and silver coin ; keeps an account 
for voluntary deposits of every 
kind, government securities, na- 
tional and foreign shares, contracts, 
&c. ; undertakes the payment of 
bills, &c. 

Place des Victoires and Statue of 
Louis X/F.— The pedestal is de- 



360 



PARIS. -^TUESDAY, POST OFFICE. CORN MARKET. 



corated with two bas-reliefs, repre- 
senting the passage of the Rhine 
by Louis XIV, in 1672, and that 
monarch upon his throne distribut- 
ing miUtary decorations. 

From the Place des Victoires 
through the small streets Reposoire, 
Pagevin, and Verdelet, to the Rue 
J. J. Rousseau, in which is situated 
the 

General Post office, or Poste aux 
Lettres. Letters for Paris and its 
vicinity are collected and distri- 
buted every two hours, from seven 
in the morning to seven in the 
evening. The General Post office 
receives paid letters for foreign 
countries and for the departments 
till four o'clock, and the Bureaux 
d'Arrondissements receive them only 
till three o'clock. Unpaid letters 
for the departments and those fo- 
reign countries to which the pay- 
ment of postage is voluntary, are 
received at the Boite-aux-lettres 
till three ; at the Bureaux des Ar- 
rondissements till four ; and at the 
Exchange and General Post office 
till five. Letters termed Lettres de 
Bourse, directed to the departments 
of foreign countries, are received, 
paid or unpaid, till five o'clock. 
The General Post office and the let- 
ter box, 4 Place de la Bourse, are 
closed at two o'clock (until which 
hour letters are received instead of 
five) on Sundays and holidays, 
when the Exchange is open. By 
an arrangement made between 
England and France, in 1843, let- 
ters may be sent from either 
country without paying any post- 
ase in advance, or it may be paid 
either partially or entirely. From 
Paris to England the postage is 
Ifr. 

Letters for England are sent off 
daily from Paris by " estafette," 
and reach London the next day 
but one; and vice versa, letters 
from England arrive at Paris by 
the same means and in the same 
time. 



A foreigner may have his let- 
ters directed to him poste restante, 
Paris, or at any other town where 
he intends to go. The poste res- 
stante is open daily from eight a.mi 
to seven p.m., except on Sundays 
and festivals, when it is closed at 
five p.m. On the party applying 
at the post office, and showing his 
passport, or perhaps his card, the 
letter will be delivered. The mails 
leave Paris daily at six in the even- 
ing. The French charge for send- 
ing GalignanVs Messenger to Eng- 
land, is 4 centimes, i e. 4-5ths of a 
halfpenny. 

After paying a visit to the Post 
office, turn to the right into the 
Rue Sartine a walk round outside 
(right) to the 

Astronomical Column of the Doric 
order, ninety- five feet in height, 
built by Catherine de Medicis in 
1572 ; on its summit is an ingenious 
sun dial, which marks the precise 
time of the day ; and at its foot a 
public fountain. 

Halle aux Bles- (corn market.) — ■ 
It is a sort of rotunda pierced with 
twenty-six arcades, six of which 
correspond to as many streets. Not 
a piece of wood has been used in 
its construction ; all is vaulted. It 
was built in 1622, on the site of the 
ancient hotel de Soissons inhabited 
by Catherine de Medicis, The 
vaulted granaries of brick and 
stone, are ascended by two stair-i 
cases, so ingeniously contrived, that 
persons can ascend and descend at 
the same time without obstructing 
each other. The roof, erected by 
Brunet in 1811, is of iron and cop- 
per, and light is admitted into, the 
edifice by a large circular window 
in the centre of the roof thirty-one 
feet in diameter. The echo in this 
building is remarkable. In addition 
to the above-mentioned granaries, 
the whole of the interior, 126 feet 
in diameter, is filled with flour and 
grain 

Enter by the right of the column 



PARIS.— TUESDAT. PALACE OF THE LOm^RE. 



361 



passing through the halle, emerge 
between Nos 7 and 8 by the Kue 
Oblin to the 

Church of St Eustache. — On fes- 
tivals this church is much thronged 
by amateurs of sacred musit^: whiph 
is well performed. . ; ^ .< t-- ; 

NeHi this church is the 

Fontaine de Tantale, at the point 
formed by the Kue Montmartre 
and Montorgueil. Proceeding east- 
wards from the church, the visitor 
enters a portion of an immense 
space devoted to halls and markets ; 
the first on the right are those de- 
voted to cheese and butter; on the 
left for the sale of fish: it is an 
oblong edifice, well paved and 
watered. Proceeding onwards we 
come to the 

Marche des Innocents, formerly 
the burying ground of the church 
of des Innocents. The gardeners 
in the neigbourhood of Paris ar- 
rive here every night at from 
twelve to two, with their fruit and 
vegetables, and from four in the 
morning till nine the wholesale 
dealing is carried on. After that 
hour they are replaced by retail 
dealers, who remain under the 
sheds which surround the market. 

Fontaine des Innocents. — This foun- 
tain, one of the finest specimens of 
French architecture, was erected 
in 1531, from the designs of Pierre 
Lescot. This monument, crowned 
by a cupola, is forty-six feet high. 
The water, which rushes in superb 
cascades, comes from the canal de 
rOurcq. 

. From the Marche des Innocents 
into the Rue St Denis, the right 
will lead to the 

Place du Chdtelet. ~lt takes its 
name from the great Chatelet built 
there about 855, and which was 
pulled down in 1812; the beautiful 
Fontaine des Palmiers adorns this 
square. The Chamber of Notaries 
is situated in this place, where 
houses and real property of insol' 
Teut debtors, as well as goods 



seized by the magistrates' warrants, 
are sold to the highest bidder. 

Fontaine da Palmier, Place du 
Chatelet.. This monument, erected 
in 1808, on the plans of Bralle, 
presents a column in bronze, fifty- 
two feet in height, in the centre of 
a circular basin of twenty feet in 
diameter. The water gushes out 
of each angle through a cornucopia. 

From this place we proceed to 
the right along the quays to the 
church of 

St German tAuxerrois facing the 
colonnade of the Louvre. The 
foundation of this church is attri- 
buted to Childeric and Ultrogothe 
his wife, about the year 580. The 
church is a regular cruciform, and 
a double aisle encloses both nave 
and choir; the western doorway 
porch extends the whole width of 
the nave. It is undergoing a 
thorough repairing and beautifying. 

As it is now nine o'clock, it is 
time to conduct our anxious friends 
to see the wonders of art in the 

Palace of the Louvre. — The en- 
trance into the museum of the 
Louvre is (except Sundays and 
fete days) through a door at the 
right-hand side of the grand en- 
trance, by a small court decorated 
by antique bas-reliefs, and an im- 
mense granite sphinx brought from 
Egypt. Strangers must produce 
their passport, and insert their name 
in a book kept in the porter's lodge 
for that purpose. Visitors must 
also deposit their canes and para- 
sols. On ascending the stairs, the 
grand staircase to the right leads to 
the Egyptian and Marine museums 
and Spanish paintings, also to the 
valuable collection of paintings, 
library, &c., bequeathed by Mr 
Standish to Louis Philippe, which 
occupies several rooms on the se- 
cond floor. The ground floor con- 
tains the museum of antiquities. 
At the top of the grand staircase 
the grand saloon leads into the long 
gallery, which is provided by pro- 



362 PARIS. — TUESDAY. PALACE OF THE LOUVRE. WEDNESDAY. 



jecting arcades, supported by marble 
columns, into many parts, some of 
which are lighted from the roof, 
others from side windows. The 
walls are entirely covered with 
pictures, and a plain slab of red 
marble runs all round the gallery 
to the height of about three feet 
against the wall, and the pictures 
rest upon its upper line. The gal- 
lery is divided into three schools: 
the French, the Flemish and Ger- 
man, Italian, and modern copies of 
ancient pictures. None but the 
works of deceased masters are ad- 
mitted into this museum. 

As we cannot describe in detail 
all the works of art to be found in 
these museums, we must content 
ourselves with referring our readers 
to the catalogues which may be 
purchased in the museum. 

The Musce des Dessins is separated 
from the Galerie du Louvre by the 
Grand Salon. This gallery con- 
tains a collection of 25,000 engra- 
vings, besides which there are 4,000 
copper-plates by the best masters, 
of which proofs are sold for the be- 
nefit of the establishment. 

Musee Egyptim. — This splendid 

collection of Egyptian, Grecian, 

and Koman antiquities, occupies 

nine apartments on the first story. 

The Musee des Tableaux des 

Ecoles Espagnoles is arranged in 

the rooms on the first floor of the 

eastern side, and is one of the latest 

and most precious acquisitions 

made by the crown of France for 

the benefit of the country. The 

ceiHngs of the rooms have on 

lately been finished, and they now 

claim the visitor's attention. Two 

apartments at the southern end are 

alsoworthyof a special notice: one, 

the bedroom of Henry IV, where 

the monarch used to sleep when he 

inhabited the Louvre, and in which 

the alcove still remains where the 

royal bed was placed, and on which 

the king's body was laid after his 

assassination. At the upper end 



of this alcove is a door opening 
into a small partitioned closet, 
wherein Henry may have used to 
place a trusty attendant. 

The Muse de la Marine. — This 
museum occupies six rooms on the 
northern side of the Louvre. It 
contains models of every kind of 
vessel, and all machines employed 
on board ship, plans in relief of 
ports and arsenals, forges, rope- 
houses, block-houses, &c. It is in- 
tended to ornament these rooms 
with paintings representing thie 
naval exploits of the French in 
every epoch. 

The Standish Gallery, containing 
near 600 pictures by the best 
French, Italian, Flemish and Spa- 
nish masters, 400 choice and rare 
volumes, and Cardinal Ximenezs' 
Bible, valued at 50,000 francs. The 
collection occupies five rooms on 
the second story. 

The Musee des Antiques, the 
Musee des Tableaux, the Musee de 
la Marine, the Musee Egyptien, and 
the Standish Gallery, are open to 
the public on Sundays from ten. 
till four. Strangers are admitted 
every day, except Mondays, by a 
door to the right of the principal 
entrance, upon producing their 
passports. 

WEDNESDAY. 



Eue de la Paix, Boulevard Italien, 
Eue Lafitte, Church Notre 
Dame de Lorette, Boulevards, 
Theatre Varietes, Theatre 
Gymnase Dramatic, Porte St 
Denis, Porte St Martin, down 
Eue St Martin to the Conser- 
vatoire des Arts et Metiers, 
eleven till three (with pass- 
port), Cour St Martin, Eue 
Eoyale, Marche St Martin, 
Eue des Fountains, Temple, 
Marche aux Vieux Linges 
(old clothes market); return 
to the Boulevards by Eue du 
Temple, Chateau d'Eau, En- 
trepot de Douanes, Canal St 



PARIS. — WEDNESDAY. PORTE ST JUARTIN. 



363 



Martin, to the Rue Menilmon- 
taut, Rue St Maure, right to 
the Abattoire Menilmontant, 
Rue de la Sorbonne, on the 
left. Prison Modele, pour les 
jeunes deterus, on the right 
Prison for condemned crimi- 
nals, Grave -stone street, to 
Pere la Chaise, Outer Boule- 
vards, to the Barrier du Tr6ne, 
Faubourg St Antoine, Column 
of July, Palace Royale, by 
omnibus back. 

Passing up the Rue de la Paix 
the stranger will be struck by the 
beauty and novelty which the 
Boulevards (turning to the right) 
presents. The first point of attrac 
tion is the Chinese baths on the 
Boulevard des Italiens. On the 
north side is Tortoni's celebrated 
cafe, and the Cafe de Paris ; a 
large room in the latter was the 
rendezvous, during the morning 
and evening, of speculators in the 
public funds, who there congre- 
gated, and called la Petite Bourse. 
Next door to Tortoni's, and form- 
ing the corner of the Rue Lafitte, 
a building has been recently erect- 
ed, which, in point of beauty and 
architectural adornment, stands 
unequalled in Paris. Some well- 
known restaurants, much frequent- 
e(J by the fashionables of Paris, are 
to be found on this Boulevard. 
The Academic Royale de Musique, 
or French Opera, is on this side 
of the Boulevard. 

At the top of Rue Lafitte is the 
new church 

Notre Dame de Lorette. — The 
length and breadth are 204 feet and 
ninety-six feet respectively. The 
portico, which forms a beautiful 
object viewed from the Rue Lafitte, 
is composed of four Corinthian 
columns, supporting a pediment. 
The interior of the church is every- 
where decorated with painted or 
stuccoed compartments, or else are 
covered with pictures ; the ceilings 



are all divided into compartments, 
separated by richly sculptured 
beams, and filled each with a bold 
architectural flower ; the whole 
being painted in gorgeous colours, 
and profusely gilt. This church is 
the most splendid in Paris, and 
cost about 1,800,000 fr. in erecting. 
Service is performed at tliis church 
with much ceremony, and the sing- 
ing, executed in great part by 
children, is remarkably good 

Returning to the Boulevard by 
the Rue Faubourg Montmartre, op- 
posite is the 

Theatre des Fanafes.— This theatre 
was opened in 1807. Its front, 
though very small, is in the purest 
style, and decorated with two 
ranges of columns, Doric and Ionic, 
surmounted by a pediment. The 
house, which is nearly circular, can 
accommodate 1,240 persons. Vaude- 
villes and farces are performed here. 

Further, on the Boulevard Bonne 
Nouvelle, stands the 

Theatre du Gymnase Dramatique, 
erected in 1820, and presents a 
plain front to the Boulevard. The 
vestibule is small; the house will 
contain 1,282 spectators. 

Porte St Denis. — The city of 
Paris, wishing to celebrate the un- 
interrupted series of victories which 
distinguished the memorable cam- 
paign of Flanders, in which, in the 
course of two months, Louis XIV 
subjected forty towns and three 
provinces to his dominions, erected 
this triumphal arch on the site of 
the ancient porte St Denis, whose 
name it still bears. Above the 
principal arch is a bas-relief repre- 
senting Louis XIV on horseback, 
with his truncheon in his hand, 
crossing the Rhine at Tolhuis. 
The bas-relief represents the taking 
of Maestricht. 

This monument was thoroughly 
repaired by CeUerier, in 1807. 

Porte St Martin, Boulevard St 
Martin. Here Louis XIV is seen 
seated on a throne, having at his 



364 



PARIS — WEDNESDAY. CHATEAU d'EAU. 



feet an allegorical figure of a nation 
on her knees, who extends her arms 
and presents to him the treaty. In 
the other, he is represented under 
the figure of Hercules naked, with 
a club in his hand, and trampling 
dead bodies beneath his feet. 

Descending the Rue St Martin at 
No. 208, a short distance on the 
left, we arrive at the 

Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, 
— Should artists produce any useful 
inventions, without having the 
means to carry them into execution, 
the council brings them acquainted 
with such capitalists as are likely 
to advance them the necessary 
funds. 

AH those who have obtained 
patents for inventions are bound 
to deposit the originals of the said 
patents, together with the descrip- 
tions, plans, drawings, and models 
therewith connected, in the con- 
servatory, which it is at liberty to 
print, engrave, and publish. 

The Conservatory is open to the 
public from ten till four on Sundays 
and Thursdays, on Tuesdays and 
Wednesdays, with passports. 

By the Cour St Martin into the 
Rue Royale, left to 

Marche St Martin, a parallelogram 
of 309 feet by 180, erected in 107 
in the enclosure of the abbey of 
St Martin des Champs. The stalls, 
in number nearly 400, are arranged 
in two large buildings, divided by a 
space ; in the centre is a fountain, 
consisting of a basin supported by 
three allegorical figures in bronze, 
representing the genii of hunting, 
fishing, and agriculture. The large 
building on the left of the Marche 
St Martin is the Maire of the arron- 
dissement. 

Leaving the market by the Rue 
Borda, cross into the Rue des Fon- 
taines. The Maison d' Arret des 
Madelonettes is a large building 
formerly belonging to a society of 
nuns, called the Filles de Made 
leine, who devoted themselves to 



the reclaiming of abandoned wo- 
men. The visitor will find himself, 
on leaving this street, opposite the 

Convent of the Tenyle, built by 
the Templars about the middle of 
the twelfth century. But little of 
the ancient edifice remains. The 
front is decorated with a portico 
formed of eight coupled Ionic co- 
lumns. On each side is a fountain 
surmounted by a colossal statue by 
Pujol. That on the left represents 
the Seine, that on the right the 
Marne. 

Gn the 11th of August, 1792, 
Louis XVI and his family were 
confined here. The unfortunate 
monarch only left it on the 20th 
January, 1793, to perish on the 
scaffold. The tower, which after- 
wards served as a state prison, was 
demolished in 1811. 

Marche du Vieux Livge. — This 
spacious market was erected in 
1809 upon part of the ancient 
Temple. It consists of four gal- 
leries, containing 1,888 shops or 
stalls. Here are offered for sale 
old clothes, linen, shoes, iron, tools, 
&c., at low prices Behind this 
market is an oval-shaped and ar* 
caded building with shops, erected 
in 1788 on speculation, when the 
Temple was a sanctuary or asylum 
for debtors. 1 1 

Re-entering the Rue du Templev 
opposite is the church of 

Sainte- Elisabeth, originally the 
chapel of a convent for nuns called 
the Dames de St EUsabeth. 

A little beyond this church fn 
Rue N. D. de Nazareth, is the Jews' 
synagogue, No. 15, where service 
is performed every Friday evening 
at sunset. 

Again reaching the Boulevards 
to the left, lies the fountain called 
the 

Chateau d'Eau, Boulevard du 
Temple. This fountain, supplied 
by the Ourcq, was constructed in 
1811, by Girard. It consists sim 
ply of five circular basins, placec 



PARIS. — WEDNESDAY. PEKE LA CHAISE. 



365 



one above the other, in the form of 
a pyramid. 

A flower market is held here on 
Mondays and Thursdays. On the 
evening of those days, the fountain 
is put into full play, which has a 
very pretty effect. The street be- 
hind the chateau leads to the new 
Customhouse and Bonding Ware- 
house. 

Continuing the Boulevards and 
passing several theatres, exhibi- 
tions, &c., and we arrive at the 

Jardin Turc, formerly a place of 
great attraction during the rage for 
Concerts a la Musard, but now de- 
generated into a mere rendezvous 
for billiard players and coffee drink- 
ers. The original orchestra, placed 
in the garden, has been enclosed, 
where vile rubbish in the shape of 
rope -dancing, balancing, &e., may 
be witnessed at one franc and one 
franc ten sous each. Opposite 
these gardens stood the house from 
a window of which Fieschi dis- 
charged his Infernal Machine, on 
the 28th July, 1835, against King 
Louis Philippe. A new house has 
been erected on the site. 

After passing the Garden Turk 
the fourth turning to the left, Rue 
du Chemin-Vert, will lead to the 

Ahattoire de Menilmontant, which 
is the finest and largest of the five 
establishments of the kind in Paris. 
It was erected in 1810, and consists 
of twenty-three piles of building, 
placed on a sloping ground, and 
arranged within an enclosure of 
walls 640 feet by 571. The estab- 
lishment is superintended by a 
resident inspector of police, and is 
conducted with great cleanliness 
Strangers are readily admitted, on 
application at the porter's lodge. 

The Rue St Maur leads into the 
Rue de la Sarbonne. Here are 
two large prisons, one for con- 
demned criminals on the right, 
the other for juvenile offenders on 
the left. The Barriere d'Aulnay, 
at the upper end of this street, 



is lined with the shops of dealers 
in tombs, stone-masons, and per- 
sons who sell funeral garlands. 

Cemeteries. — The practice of inter- 
ment in the churches and church- 
yards of Paris prevailed till 1773, 
when the parliament, becoming 
alarmed at the evils caused by the 
exhalations from these receptacles 
of the dead, ordered the cemetery 
of the Innocents to be shut up, and 
this was, in a few years, followed 
by the closing of ail the burying- 
grounds in the interior of Paris. 
The cemeteries are now in the vi- 
cinity, and are much frequented, 
particularly on Sundays. On All 
Souls' day, or jfete des Morts, 
there it is a sort of holy, melan- 
choly, and sentimental pilgrimage, 
which is of the most impressive 
description. 

Pere la Chaise. — This celebrated 
and much frequented burial-place 
was originally denominated Champ 
rEveque, but consisted only of six 
acres. In the fourteenth century, 
Regnaud, a rich grocer, enchanted 
with its beautiful scenery and noble 
prospects, selected it as the site of 
a mansion. 

In 1626 it fell into the hands of 
the Jesuits, and, according to tra- 
dition, it was from this place that 
Louis XIV, when a child, wit- 
nessed the battle in the Faubourg St 
Antoine, July 2nd, 1652, which was 
given by Marshall Turenne, the 
commander of the royal army, in 
honour of the great Conde, who 
was then chief of the Slingers. 
Hence this spot derived the name 
of Mont Louis, which it still re- 
tains. For its second and more 
general appellation of Pere la 
Chaise, it is indebted to other cir- 
cumstances. 

The cemetery of Pere la Chaise is 
situated on the east side of Paris, 
at the extremity of the Boulevards, 
near the Barriere d'Aulnay. It is 
the largest of the cemeteries in the 
vicinity of the French metropolis, 



366 



PARIS. — WEDNESDAY. PERE LA CHAISE. 



and now contains from eighty to 
one hundred acres, pleasingly di- 
versified by hill, plain, and valley. 
The irregularity of the ground ren- 
ders it extremely picturesque, and 
its beauty is still further increased 
by the gloomy foHage of its cypress 
trees, shading tombs of every form. 
Few situations command so exten- 
sive and varied a prospect. On the 
west is seen the whole of Paris ; 
on the south, Bicetfe and Meudon ; 
on the east, the plain of St Mande, 
Montreuil, Vincennes, and the 
banks of the Marne ; and on the 
north, Belleville and Montmartre. 

The cemetery contains three kinds 
of graves : 1 st. The Fosses Communes, 
or public graves, four and a half 
feet deep, in which the poor are 
buried gratuitously in co£6[ns placed 
close to each other. These are re- 
opened every five years, that time 
being quite sufficient in this soil to 
decompose the bodies. 2nd. The 
temporary graves, which, by the 
payment of 50 francs, are held for 
ten years, but must be given up at 
the end of that term, although 
monuments may have been erected 
over them. 3rd. The perpetual 
graves, which are purchased at 250 
francs per metre, and over which 
perpetual monuments maybe erect- 
ed. The temporary graves may 
be made perpetual by purchase, 
previous to the expiration of the ten 
years, and the 50 francs originally 
paid are then deducted from the 
purchase money. 

The first funeral took place May 
21st, 1804, and since that period, 
more than 100,000 persons have 
been buried here, exclusive of those 
from the hospitals. Many of the 
tombs are distinguished for their 
architectural beauty, and others 
contain the remains of men who 
delighted the world by their writ- 
ings, instructed it by their wisdom, 
aud embellished it by their genius. 

Beyond the gate is an open space 
between two avenues, to the right 



of which is the house of the keeper, 
the porter's lodge, and stonema- 
son's workshops. To the left are 
the fosses communes, or public 
graves, and in front appears the 
chapel. A small space to the right 
of the porter's lodge is appropriated 
to the burial of Jews, but the whole 
of the other part of this extensive 
cemetery is devoted to the inter- 
ment of persons of all ranks and all 
religions. 

The chapel is a neat building, 
surmounted by a cross of white 
marble, and illuminated by a win- 
dow in the centre of the roof. It 
is fifty -six feet long, twenty- eight 
broad, and about fifty-six in height. 
The level ground in front of this 
building commands a fine view. 

A catalogue and plan of the 
ground may be purchased at the 
entrance. 

The most interesting monument 
is the tomb of Abelard and Heloise, 
which is situated to the right of the 
entrance, near the Jews' burial 
ground. This tomb actually con- 
tains the ashes of the two lovers. 

It is a Gothic chapel, formed out 
of the ruins of the celebrated abbey 
of Paraclete, by Lenoir, and origin^ 
ally placed in the internal court of 
the museum of Prench monuments. 
Its form is a parallelogram four- 
teen feet by eleven, and its height 
is twenty-four feet. A pinnacle, 
twelve feet in height, rises from the 
centre of the roof, and four smaller 
pinnacles ornament the corners. 
Fourteen columns, each six feet in' 
height, and adorned with rich ca- 
pitals, support ten arches, sur- 
mounted by worked cornices. The 
principal pediment contains two 
busts, and a bas-relief, divided into 
three parts : the centre represents 
Mount Calvary; the left, Abelard, 
in his monastic dress ; and the right 
an angel, holding in his arms the 
soul of Abelard. The opposite pe- 
diment presents a bas-relief of Abe- 
lard's funeral, and two roses j, and 



PARIS. — WEDNESDAY. COLUMN OP JULY. 



367 



the other two pediments^ are adorn- 
ed with roses. 

In this chapel is placed the tomb 
built for Abelard by Peter the 
Venerable, at the Priory of St 
Marcel. He is represented in a 
recumbent posture, aud at his side 
is the statue of Heloise. The bas- 
reliefs round the sarcophagus re- 
present the fathers of the church ; 
and there are inscriptions referring 
to the erection and removal of the 
monument. 

The stranger cannot leave this 
ground without remarking the nu- 
merous and affecting monuments 
of the humbler classes of society; 
the mementos are the most touch- 
ing from the expressions of tender- 
ness and regret with which they 
are covered. Who can regard, and 
not be moved almost to tears, that 
little garden cultivated with so 
much care, those flowers, those 
crowns, nay, those white curtains 
so constantly and so carefully re- 
newed? A mother's affections are 
interred there in the grave of her 
child. 

On viewing the costly monuments 
with which this spacious cemetery 
of ninety acres in extent is covered, 
the visitor will not be surprised to 
learn that it has been calculated 
that during the forty years this 
ground has now been devoted to its 
present purpose, no less a sum 
than 100,000,000 frs. (upwards of 
4,000,000/.) have been expended in 
their erection. The number of 
tombs is about 14,000. 

A quarter of an hour's walk on 
leaving the cemetery wiU lead to 
the 

Barrier e du Trone, ornamented 
with two plain but lofty columns, 
erected in 1788. They are con- 
spicuous objects from many parts 
of Paris. A throne was erected 
here, on which Louis XIV received 
the homage of the city, on his tri- 
umphal entry, on the 26th August, 
1660, whence it derives its usmQt 



The large circular space immedi- 
ately within the barrier was em- 
ployed in 1794 as a supplementary 
place of execution. It now serves 
as a spot for the holding of public 
festivals for this quarter of Paris; 
and displays of fire-works, shows, 
games, &c., take place here when- 
ever they are given by government 
in the Charaps-Elysees. It is the 
intention of the municipality to 
ornament it in the style of the 
Place de la Concorde, with a bronze 
fountain modelled from the intend- 
ed elephant design of the Place de 
la Bastille 

The Rue du Faubourg StAntoine 
leads to the 

Place de la Bastille, formed on 
the site of the Bastille, so celebrated 
in the history of France. It is 
altogether of an irregular form, 
and its situation near the canal St 
Martin renders it pleasant. Many 
plans for its embelUshment have 
been contemplated. Napoleon in- 
tented to have erected a fountain 
on the semicircular arch over the 
canal St Martin. The water was 
to have been furnished from the 
trunk of a bronze elephant, which, 
including the tower supported on 
the back of the animal, was to have 
been more than seventy-two feet 
in height. The fuU-sized plaster 
model of this stupendous monument 
is still visible. The government 
of Louis XVin conceived another 
project, but the original idea of a 
fountain was still adhered to. The 
present government have erected 
a monument in bronze, known as 
the 

Column of Jidy, on which is in- 
scribed : 

" A la gloiredes Citoyens Fran- 
9ais, qui s'armerent et combatirent 
pour la defense des libertes pub- 
liques dans, les journees des 27, 23, 
et 29 Juillet, 1830, 

On this column is inscribed the 
names of the patriots killed in the 
combats of the Three Days of 1830; 



368 



PARIS THUBSDAY. PONT-IOIUF. 



the total number is 504. The ca- 
pital is the largest piece of bronze 
ever cast, being sixteen and a half 
feet wide, ornamented with lions' 
heads, children bearing garlands, 
&c. On the top is a lantern pavil- 
ion, having a door in it, opening to 
the gallery, which is surrounded 
with a bronze balustrade. Above 
is placed a statue, seventeen feet 
high, representing the Genius of 
Liberty, having in the right hand 
a torch, in the left a broken chain. 
The height of the entire construc- 
tion is about 164 feet ; weight of 
metal employed 163,283 lbs. avoir- 
dupois : the entire sum expended 
on the monument 1,200,000 fr. 

Visitors are admitted to ascend to 
the top on payment of a small gratuity 
to the guardian. 

Near this spot is the 

Place Royale. — This is a perfect 
square of 430 feet, surrounded by 
thirty-four houses of uniform struc- 
ture, having arches on the ground 
floor, forming a covered gallery 
which runs round the place. A 
white marble equestrian statue of 
Louis XIII was erected here in 
November 1829. 

The height of the surrounding 
buildings, their severe style of 
architecture, their arcades, and the 
total absence of the fashionable 
world, give a melancholy aspect to 
this square. 

This is the site of the ancient 
Palais des Tournelles. At a mas- 
querade given here in 1593, Charles 
VI appeared in the character of a 
savage. The Duke of Orleans 
holding a flambeau too near him, 
his dress caught fire. Tour of the 
lords who attended him were burnt 
to death ; and had it not been for 
the presence of mind of the Duchess 
of Berry the monarch would have 
perished also. 

Omnibuses from this quarter to 
the fashionable world every five 
minutes. 



THURSDAY. 

Pont-Neuf, statue of Henry IV, 
Place Dauphine, statue of 
General Desaix, right to the 
Quai des Orfevres, Rue Jeru- 
salem, passport office. Take 
up original passport. Leaving 
the court yard of the Prefect, 
take the first turning on left 
across the place, under three 
arches to the Palace of Justice. 
Out by side entrance opposite 
the Plower Market. Pont 
Notre-Dame. Hotel de Ville. 
Church of St Gervais. Font 
Louis Philippe. House of Abe- 
lard and Heloise. Notre- Dame. 
Hotel-Dieu, Rue Neuve Notre- 
Dame. Left Quai du Marche- 
Neuf. Morgue Pont St Mi- 
chel. Rue de la Harpe. Ruins 
of the Palace des Thermes. 
Rue de I'Ecole de Medecine. 
Musee Dupuytren. Cabinet 
de I'Ecole d'Anatomie, from, 
eleven till three on Thursdays 
only. Third turning on right, 
Hotel des Monnaies (passport), 
twelve till three. Libraries of 
Institute from ten till four. 
Ecole des Beaux- Arts (silver 
ticket). Right Rue Jacob, Left 
Rue des St Peres. Right Rue 
St Dominique. ,; Place St Tho-r 
mas d'Aquin, Musee d' Artil- 
lery (passport), twelve till four. 
Church of St Thomas d'Aquin., 
Right, Rue du Bac. Pont- 
Royal, two sous in tne Tuile- 
ries. Dinner, go to Ranelagh,^ 
in the Bois de Boulogne, in the 
evening. 

As this must prove a busy day, 
it will be necessary to start early, 
as several places mentioned in this 
day's route are open only on Thurs- 
days, and others only on days de- 
voted to other parts of Paris ; pro- 
ceed at once to the 

Pont-Neuf.—ThQ construction of 
this bridge, begun in 1578, was 
interrupted by the wars of the 



PARIS. — THURSDAY. PASSPORT OFFICE. 



369 



Ligue, and not completed till the 
year 1684. Built at the western 
extremity of the He de la Cite, it 
communicates at once with the Rue 
dela Monnaie on the north, and the 
Rue Dauphine on the south. The 
northern branch of this bridge is 
formed of seven semi-circular 
arches ; the southern of five. 
Its entire length is 1,020 feet, and 
its width seventy. This is the 
London bridge of Paris ; as it 
forms the principal communication 
between the northern and southern 
banks of the river, the concourse 
of vehicles and passengers is 
always great. In 1775, twenty 
small shops were constructed on 
this bridge, and still exist, some 
of which are now being rebuilt. 
That end of the island which 
divides the bridgr into two parts 
was called Place Henri IV, in con- 
sequence of having been formerly 
occupied by an equestrian statue 
of that monarch, destroyed in 
1792. It was the intention of 
Napoleon to have erected an obe- 
lisk here, which was to have been 
200 feet in height. The founda- 
tions were already laid, and had 
risen above the ground, when the 
events of 1814 occurred. The 
modern statue which now adorns 
this place was erected on the 25th 
of August, 1818. The pedestal 
which supports the monument is 
in freestone of Chateau-Landon, 
and rests upon the basement of 
granite intended for the support of 
the obelisk. Two bas-reliefs in 
bronze ornament the pedestal of 
this monument. That towards the 
north represents the entry of 
Henry TV iQto Paris, on the 22nd 
March, 1594 ; that on the south 
exhibits the same monarch, whilst 
besieging the city, supplying the 
inhabitants who came to his camp 
for provisions. The statue itself is 
forty-four feet in height, weighs 
30,000 lbs., and cost 337,860 fr. 
Place Dauphine.— X small trian- 



gular place ; the houses surround- 
ing it are of irregular architecture. 
It was built under Louis XIII ; in 
the centre is a fountain surmounted 
by the bust of General Desaix, who 
fell at Marengo. 

Passing through the Place Dau- 
phine, in front will be perceived a 
large gateway leading into the 
Palace of Justice ; but should the 
visitor not yet have exchanged his 
provisional passport received on 
the frontier, this will be a good 
opportunity for him to do so. In- 
stead, therefore, of going direct into 
the palace, turn to the right on to 
the Quai des Orfevres, turn to the 
left by Rue de Jerusalem to the 
office of the 

Prefect of Police, who exercises 
his functions under the immediate 
authority of the ministers, delivers 
passports, represses vagrancy, men- 
dicity, tumultuous assemblies, and 
prostitution ; he exercises control 
over the furnished hotels, takes 
cognizance of the occupation of 
workmen, &c, and causes succour 
to be afforded in case of fire, inun- 
dations, &c. He seizes prohibited 
goods, and unwholesome proWsions 
offered for sale ; verifies weights 
and measures, and confiscates such 
as are below the standard ; fixes 
the price of bread ; suppresses in 
the capital all establishments inju- 
rious to health ; and superintends 
the supply of Paris with meat, 
corn, and other provisions, and 
exercises vigilf,nce over hawkers ; 
the safety, lighting, and cleaning 
of the public ways ; the unlading 
of boats upon the Seine ; the baths, 
brokers, porters, hackney coaches 
and their drivers. It likewise be- 
longs to him to apprehend and 
bring to justice all persons accused 
of misdemeanors or crimes. 

Passport office. — The office for 
the vise and delivery of passports 
is situated in the left hand corner 
of the court yard, entering, turn to 
the left. On the right is a double 



370 



PARIS- — THTJRSDAY. HOTEL DE VILLB. 



door, covered with something that 
one time or othei' looked green. 
Open this door between the hours 
of ten and four. Take oflf your hat 
(or the soldier on duty WiU order 
you to do so), walk up to the ex- 
treme end, Where just within the 
division to the person sitting on 
the right tender your provisional 
pas^ort ; then take a seat opposite 
the word " Etranger." In a short 
or long time, according to the num- 
ber of persons waiting, your name 
will be called, and the original pass- 
port dehvered to you, and told to 
take it for the signature of the 
EngUsh ambassador. It may here 
be stated, that after it has received 
his signature, you must return to 
this office a few days before you 
intend leaving Paris. On this oc- 
casion, give it to the official seated 
the last on the left, at the same 
time intimating the route by which 
you intend leaving I'rance, and take 
a seat tfll your name be again called. 
{But this is one of the places Where 
a man does not immediately re- 
cognise his own name.) Take it 
for signature within the division, 
and then to the stamp, and exit. 

On leaving the court yard of 
passport office take the street on 
the left cross the place leading into 
the 

Palais de Justice, — This is one of 
the oldest edifices in Paris. AU 
the courts, except the Tribunal of 
Commerce, are here united. Until 
1431, when it was given up to the 
parhament of Paris by Charles VII, 
it was made use of as an abode for 
the Kings of France. The haUs of 
audience of the trihunaux de Pre- 
miere Instance are in differents parts 
of the biiilding. 

To the south of the Palais de 
Justice, stands the most sumptuous 
edifice connected with the old palace 
of the kings of France, the 

Sairvte-Chapelle, a Gothic edifice 
of the middle age, adjoining this 
ancient palace of the French. It 



Was built by Montreuil, in 1248, 
during the reign of Saint Louis, as 
a depository for the relics brought 
by this king from Palestine, and 
which are now preserved in the 
cathedral of Notre-Dame. 

On the Place du Palais, persons 
condemned to the pillory undergo 
punishment. Strangers may visit 
the interior of this palace by apply- 
ing to the archivisite or keeper of 
the records, whose office is under 
the first arch to the left on entering^ 
the court of the palace, but to see 
the interior of the Conciergerie, ap- 
pHcation must be made by letter to 
M. le Prefect de Police, Quai des 
Orfevres. On the Quai de I'Horioge 
will be perceived two turrets flank- 
ing the ancient gateway of the 
Conciergerie, lately restored ; the 
most western of these contains the 
prison of Marie-Antoinette. In the 
tower square, at the comer of the 
Rue de la Barillerie, was placed the 
first large clock seen in Paris, made 
in 1370, by a German, Henry de 
Vic. The beU, called tocsin du 
Palais, hung in this tower, repeated 
the signal given from St Germain- 
I'Auxerois for the massacre of St 
Bartholomew's day. 

Marche aux Fleurs. — It is planted 
with four rows of trees, and em- 
bellished with fountains. Flowers, 
shrubs, and trees are sold here oai 
Wednesdays and Saturdays. 

At the end of the flower market 
we cross the 

Pont Notre-Dame. — The oldest 
bridge in Paris, and replaced one 
built in 1414. On the western side 
of the bridge is the Pompe du 
Pont Notre-Dame, consisting of a 
square tower, supported on piles, 
and containing a reservoir, into 
which water is raised by means of 
machinery set in motion by the 
current of the river. 

Turning to the right by the Quai 
Pehetier, we stand before that now 
modern building the 

HOtd de VUle. — The ground story 



PARIS. — THURSDAY. CAiaEDRAL OF NOTRE DAME. 



371 



is ornamented with three-q[uarter 
composite columns, and the story 
above with niches for statues. Over 
the principal entrance is a bas-relief 
in bronze, representing Henry IV 
on horseback. The clock, by Jean- 
Andre Lepaute, erected in 1784, is 
one of the best in Paris ; it is illu- 
minated at night. A flight of steps 
conducts by the principal entrance 
to the court, which is square and re- 
gular, and ornamented with arcades 
and Ionic columns. Under the 
arcade opposite to the entrance is a 
pedestrian statue in bronze of 
Louis XIV, by Coysevox. The 
apartments are seen with much 
difficulty. Near the Hotel de Ville 
is the 

Church of Saint Gervais. — This 
church, as it at present exists, dates 
from 1420, except the portico, which 
was erected in 1616 ; here is a paint- 
ing by Albert Durer, dated 1500, 
representing scenes from the passion 
of our Saviour. One of the chapels 
receives light from five windows, of 
which three are enriched by superb 
specimens of painted glass, executed 
by Pinaigrier, in 1527. Within 
these two years a beautiful painting 
has been placed in this church re- 
presenting the captivity of St Paul ; 
the best view is from the opposite 
site of the church. 

Eetuming to the quay we cross the 

Pont Louis Philippe, opened on 
the fete day of the king. May 1st, 
1834 ; extends first from the Quai 
de la Greve to the lie St Louis 
and the He de la Cite. It is a fine 
su&penaon bridge, constructed in 
iron wire. 

On reaching the Quai Napoleon 
a few steps to the right will bring 
you in front of the house described 
^ Mstorians as the residence of 

Abdard and Heloise. This how- 
ever must be an error, as it is of 
modern erection, and upon close 
questioning the exhibitor he ad- 
mitted the present house was erected 
on the site of that existing in 1118. 



It is pretended that the outrage 
coromitted upon Abelard took place 
here. Visitors are admitted on ap- 
plication to the owner of the tene- 
ment. 

Keturning past the bridge, we 
have just crossed, we stand before 
that venerable pile, the 

Cathedral of Notre Dame.— This 
immense building was the uninter- 
rupted toil of nearly 300 years, 
the exterior length of which is 
415 feet by 150 wide. In the 
southern tower is the vast bell 
named the Bourdon, which weighs 
32,000 pounds ; its diameter, as 
well as its height, is eight feet ; 
its thickness eight inches, and its 
clapper weighs 976 pounds. Louis 
XIV gave it in 1685, the period 
in which it was cast, the name of 
EmanueL Sixteen men are re- 
quired to put it in motion. For a 
small gratuity, the visitor is con- 
ducted to the platform of the towers 
by a staircase of 400 steps, situated 
in the northern tower. From the 
top of these towers the view em- 
braces the course of the Seine and 
the city. The roof of this edifice is 
supported by chesnut timber, which 
was formerly much in request for 
the construction of this sort of 
building. It is 356 feet long by 53 
wide, and supports a leaden cover- 
ing of 424,240 lbs. The interior 
of this church corresponds with its 
exterior magnificence. The sanc- 
tuary is ornamented with gildings, 
precious marbles, and master-pieces 
of statuary. Aljove the principal 
entrance is a superb organ. Here 
were preserved many of the most 
precious relics that had escaped the 
fury of the revolution, besides seve- 
ral objects of art of the middle ages, 
that were unique and possessed 
the highest historical value. At the 
time of the sacking of St Germain 
I'Auxerrois and the archbishop's 
palace, in 1831, the mob broke in 
here also, and, headed by officers 
of the National Guards, destroyed 



372 



PARTS. — TIlCR^DAY. ECOLE BE MBDfiClNE. 



everything that came within their 
reach. The damage thus occasioned 
was irreparable ; the coronation 
robes of Napoleon, and the splendid 
dresses that he gave to the bishops 
and the chapter on occasion of that 
ceremony", were cut up for the sake 
of the gold embroidery they con- 
tained. These, however, were res- 
cued and have been repaired ; and 
may be seen for a smaU gratuity. 

On the southern side of Notre- 
Dame stood the Archbishop's Pa- 
lace, which with the exception of 
a ruin stiU adjoining the southern 
transept of the cathedral, not a 
vestige of either palace or garden 
now remains. 

Hotel-Dieu. — This hospital is de- 
Voted to the sick and wounded, 
and is one of the cleanest and best- 
regulated in the metropolis. It con- 
tains 1,000 beds. The only archi- 
tectural decoration to this edifice 
is the principal entrance. The 
Dames de St Augusfin attend upon 
the patients. Whilst the cholera 
raged in Paris, in 1832, of the first 
600 patients admitted into this 
hospital only one survived, and of 
the first 1,000 only five. 

Strangers may visit the establish- 
ment from one till three, by applica- 
tion to the Agent de Surveillance. 

Opposite Notre-Dame is the 

Bureau central d' Admission dans 
Us Hopitaux et Hospices. Passing 
down the Rue Notre-Dame and 
turning to the left on to the 
Marche-Neut, the small building 
on the left on the Quai is the 

Morguf, in which are deposited 
the bodies of unknown persons 
who are found drowned, or have 
met with accidental or sudden death 
in the street. They are laid on 
sloping marble tablets, where they 
remain three days exposed to pub- 
lic view, that their Mends and 
relatives may have an opportunity 
of recognizing them. If not claim- 
ed, they are presented to the medi- 
cal schools for dissection. 



Passing over Pont St Michel, 
Place St Michel, up the Rue du 
la Harpe to the ruins of the 

Palais des Thermes.— The Palais 
des Thermes is supposed to have 
been built by Constance Chlore, 
grandfather of Julian the Apostate, 
between the years 292 and 306. 
All that remains of this monimient 
of antiquity is a large hall com- 
posed of two contiguous parallelo- 
grams forming together but one 
apartment. This monument was 
inhabited by a cooper in the year 
1819, but purchased as well as 
roofed by the government for the 
purpose of preserving it from fur- 
ther ruin. To obtain admission 
apply opposite at No. 66. 

Proceeding up the Rue de la 
Harpe, right. Rue de I'Ecole de 
Medecine, on the left, is the 

Musee Dnpuytren, open to the 
public on Thursdays from eleven 
till three. 

Adjoining the Musee Dupuytren 
is the Ecoh practique d' Anatomic, 
a set of dissecting rooms for the 
use of the students. Dissections 
are carried on here in the winter, 
and in the summer courses of ope- 
rative surgery are conducted by 
the "internes" "aides d'anatomie," 
and the " agreges de la faculty." 

At the corner of the Rue Haute- 
feuille, on the northern side, is a 
house of the 16th century, formerly 
belonging to a societj'- of Premon- 
stratensian monks ; No. 18 in the 
Rue de I'Ecole de Medecine, in a 
dirty back room, Charlotte Corday 
stabbed the infamous Marat, while 
in a bath, on the 13th July, 1793. 
Further down on the right is 
the 

Ecole de Medecine. — The front 
towards the street consists of a 
colonnade of the Ionic order, 198 
feet in length, supporting an enta- 
blature and attic. Between the 
columns are arcades, some of which 
are open. Above the principal en- 
trance is a bas-relief representing 



PARIS. • THUESDAY. PALAIS DES BEAUX. 



373 



Louis XV, accompanied by Wisdom , 
and Benefice. I 

The museum is open to the pub- | 
lie every Thursday from eleven to 
three ; but students are admitted 
daily, on obtaining' an order from a 
professor. 

Opposite to the Ecole de Medi- 
cine is the 

Hopital Clinique. — A small in- 
stitution, intended more especially 
for the instruction of the students 
and the lectures of the professors. 
It is established in the cloister of 
Cordeliers, some of the remains 
of which are still to be seen ; and 
contains 140 beds. 

The third turning on the right 
will lead to the 

Hotel des Monnaies. — Is, as well 
from its magnificent situation as 
from the imposing regularity of 
its architecture, one of the finest 
in Paris. The principal fa9ade next 
the quay is 360 feet in length and 
seventy eight in elevation. It is 
three stories high, and each story 
has twenty-seven openings for win- 
dows and doors. In the centre is a 
projecting mass with five arcades on 
the ground floor, forming a base- 
ment for six Ionic columns. Six 
figures decorate this fa9ade : Pru- 
dence, Strength, Commerce, Abim- 
dance, Law, and Peace. 

Z,a Galerie des Medailes, pos- 
sesses a collection of medals and 
pouches of medals struck trom the 
time of Francis I to our days ; 
and models of all the utensils used 
in the process of melting, coin- 
ings &c. The cabinet of Minera- 
logy, occupying the centre i)a- 
vilion, on the first story of the 
building next the quay, contains 
specimens of an immense quantity 
of minerals. Open from twelve to 
three, with passport. To view the 
process of coining, application by 
letter (p.p.) must be made to M, le 
DirecteuT, a t Hotel des Monnaies. 

On leaving the Hotel des Mon- 
naies, the left will lead to the 



Palais de VInsiitut. — This edifice 
forms the segment of a circle, ter- 
minated at the extremities by pavil- 
ions, standing on open arcades. 
In the centre is the portico of the 
hall, where the public meetings 
are held. The door on the eastern 
side of the court leads to the Biblio- 
theque Mazarine. 

The collection consists of about 
120,000 printed volumes, and 4,500 
manuscripts. The principal room 
which it occupies is adorned with 
marble busts. It is open to the 
public daily, except Sundays and 
festivals, from ten to three : the 
vacation is from August 1 to Sep- 
tember 1 5. The BihliotUqiie de V In- 
stitute open daily from one till four. 
The public are admitted to see the 
buildings on applying at the por- 
ter's lodge. . 

Immediately opposite is the 

Pont des Arts. This elegant 
bridge, for foot-passengers only, 
takes its name from the Louvre, 
which, at the time when the bridge 
was constructed, was called Palais 
des Arts. It was the first built of 
iron in Paris ; there is a toll of one 
sous each person. 

Proceeding along the Quai Mala- 
quai, and turning into the Rue des 
Petits-Augustins,on the right to the 
Palais des Beaux-Arts. — The chief 
attraction is the amphitheatre ; in 
which is a beautiful painting on 
the domical roof by Paul Dela- 
roche, which occupied three years 
and a half in the execution. The 
composition includes seven groups, 
representing the principal schools 
of painting : the Roman, Ploren- 
tine, German, Dutch, Flemish, 
Spanish, and French ; the latter 
being in the middle. Notwith- 
standing the intimation of a very 
respectable authority, the passport 
gives no special right of entry ; the 
best way to gain admission is to 
request the company of a guardian, 
and give him a trifle for his attend- 
ance. 



374 



PAEIS.— FRIDAY. CHURCH OP ST SULPICE. 



From the Beaux-Arts, turn to 
the right to Rue Jacob, to the left 
into Rue des St Peres, right Rue 
St Dominique, to the Place St Tho- 
mas d'Aquin, in which is situated 
the 

Musee (TArtiUerie.^— This highly 
interesting and curious museum 
occupies five galleries ; one of 
which contains suits of ancient ar- 
mour ; and the four others, arms, 
models of arms, machines, and in- 
struments used in the artillery ser- 
vice, &c. ; in the first gallery the 
pfmour is arranged, as far as pos- 
sible^ chronologically; the earliest 
examples being the pieces placed 
farthest from the entrance. In the 
other galleries, which are numbered 
1, 2, 3, and 4, are racks opposite 
the windows, in which are arranged 
small arms, ancient and modern. 
The most curious and costly arti- 
cles are in glass cases. Along the 
sides, near the windows, are rows 
of tables, presenting models of can- 
non, gun-carriages, mihtary equi- 
pages, machines, instruments, &c. 
On the floor, under the racks, are 
models of large dimensions. Cata- 
logues with full descriptions of all 
the remarkable objects contained in 
it may be purchased at the door ; 
price 1 franc. 

Open on Thursdays and Satur- 
days from twelve till four with 
passport. Adjoining the Musee 
d' Artillery stands the 

Church of St Thomas cT Aquin.-" 
The present edifice was begun in 
1682 from designs by P. Bullet, and 
terminated in 1740. The portico, 
like many others of the Paris 
churches, is imitated from that of 
St Gervais. The interior is orna- 
mented with Corinthian pilasters, 
supporting a cornice enriched with 
mouldings. Above the principal 
altar is a glory painted in grisaiUe. 

On leaving the church, the right 
will lead into the Rue Bac, commu- 
nicating with. the Pont Royal and 
Tuileries. During the summer, a 



grand ball is given at Ranelagh, 
Bois de Boulogne, every Thursday 
evening, from seven to eleven 
o'clock ; admission : ladies,, on© 
franc ; gents., three francs. 

Omnibuses from the Place du 
Carrousel, and from the Boulevards: 
opposite the Madeleine to Passy, 
within a short walk of Ranelagh. 

FRIDAY. 

Church of St Sulpice, by omnibus 
(the Parisian), to the left 
through the Rue Feroa, by side 
entrance into the gardens of 
the Luxembourg, go quite 
round the palace to the en- 
trance, to the Galerie de Tab- 
leaux. Odeon Theatre, gardens 
to the extreme end. Boule- 
vard Mont-Parnasse. Chau- 
miere. Swiss Mountains. To 
the left, to the Boulevard d' 
Enfer. Hospice des Enfants- 
Trouves, Observatoire, Rue 
faubourg St Jacques, Hospice 
Cochin, Hospice d' Accouche- 
ment, Church of Val de Grace, 
Military Hosipital. Deaf and 
Dumb (Sourds et Muets) In- 
stitution. Church of St Jacques 
du Haut Pas, continue Rue St 
Jacques to Place Soufflot. Ecole 
de Droit. Pantheon, ascend 
to the top. Church of St 
Etienne du Mont. College 
Henri IV, Library St Gene- 
vieve. Polytechnic School. 
Rue des Fosses St Victor. In- 
stitution des Jeunes Aveugles 
(Bhnd School), Rue Projet^e. 
Halle aux Vins. By omnibus 
back. 

The first object to be visited being 
some distance, it would be advisa- 
ble to take an omnibus, several of 
which go direct from the Rue de la 
Paix, Rue St Honore, &c, to the 
Place St Sulpice, in which is the 

Church of St Sulpice, founded 
on the remains of a chapel of St 
Peter, and begun in 1646. The 



fAETS. — ^FRIDAY. LUXEMBOUKQ FAI.AIB. 



375 



length of this superb building is 
336 feet, and the elevation of the 
towers is 210 feet. The portico, 
famous for its imposing beauty, is 
composed of light Doric columns, 
40 feet high, and is approached by 
a flight of steps ; it supports a gal- 
lery and colonnade of the Ionic 
order, with columns 39 feet high ; 
and above the whole is a balustrade. 
Two enormous shells, presented to 
Francis I by the republic of Ve- 
nice, are used as benitiers, or reser- 
voirs for holy water. The stran- 
ger may ascend the towers, on 
which are telegraphs, for a trifling 
gratuity. 

The Seminaire de St Sulpice, a 
large plain building, with an iron 
railing in front, stands in the cor- 
ner, accommodating, with its depen- 
dency at Issy, 210 students. It was 
erected in 1820. 

The Rue Ferou will lead into the 
Luxembourg Gardens, by the side 
entrance : passing quite round the 
palace, in the left hand comer, near 
the railing, is the entrance to the 
Picture Gallery of the 

Palais de Luxembourg. — This edi- 
fice was constructed by order of 
Marie de Medicis, wife of Henri 
IV. The principal entrance, oppo- 
site the Rue de Tournon, presents a 
large pavilion at each extremity of 
the fayade, connected by a terrace 
pierced with eight arcades. In the 
centre of this is another small pavi- 
lion crowned by an elegant dome. 
The front towards the garden has a 
large pavilion at each extremity, 
and a projecting mass in the cen- 
tre. The fa9ade towards the court 
differs but little from that towards 
the garden. 

In the right wing of the court is 
a magnificent staircase, consisting 
of forty-eight steps, on each side of 
which are Ionic columns support- 
ing a roof ornamented with cais- 
sons. At the extremities are bas- 
reliefs, by Duret, representing Mi- 
nerva and Genii offering crowns. 



Each intercolumniation not occu- 
pied by a window, is either adorn- 
ed by a statue or a military trophy. 
The beauty of this staircase, at the 
foot of which is a group of JPsyche 
and Love, is singularly augmented 
by eight recumbent lions. Having 
traversed the Salles des Gardes, the 
stranger is introduced to the Salle 
d'Hercule, containing statues of 
Hercules. In the Salle des Massa» 
gers are two marble statues; one 
of Silence, the other of Prudenca 
The Salle de la Reunion is orna- 
namented with a grand allegorical 
painting, representing the return of 
Louis XVIII, with a portrait of the 
same monarch by Lefevre, with 
a grisaille, representing St Louis 
fighting the infidels, by Callet; and 
with a painted ceiling representing 
Force and Justice crowned by 
Fame- The new Chamber of Peers 
is a most splendid apartment, no- 
thing can be more gorgeous ; the 
walls are of carved oak, rickly gilt, 
and the hangings and seats are of 
blue velvet. The benches for the 
peers, which rise as in an amphi- 
theatre, occupy the area in front 
of the president; before whom is 
the tribune for the orators. The 
SaUe du Trone; ceiling represents 
Henry IV in a car, guided by Vic- 
tory. Of the other fresco decora- 
tions : Peace and War. Four other 
apartments, in one of which is the 
library, serve for the sittings of 
committees of the chambers. The 
chapel is on the ground floor; near 
to this is the room called the Cham- 
bre a couche de Marie de Medicis. 
The paintings are by Rubens. The 
Salle du Livre d'Or, containing the 
archives of the peers and their me- 
dallions, is ornamented with ara- 
besques and diverse paintings. The 
marble busts of many of the de- 
ceased senators occupy stations in 
different halls. 

The garden, though not so richly 
ornamented as that of the Tuileries, 
forms a most agreeable promenade 



37Q 



PARIS. — FRIDAY. FOUNDLING HOSPITAL. 



for the inhabitants of the southern 
banks of the Seine. The elevations 
and slopes with which it abounds 
produce an agreeable variety. In 
the parterre before the palace is an 
octagonal piece of water, in which 
several swans display their grace- 
ful forms. The grass plats in the 
vicinity are surrounded with flower 
beds, and skirted by a light iron 
railing. Numerous marble statues 
and vases are distributed about 
the alleys and public walks; the 
principal alleys are embellished 
with orange trees. The grand 
avenue is prolonged in the midst 
of a nursery ground to the Royal 
Observatory by so gentle an as- 
cent, that the difference of elevation 
between this building and the pa- 
lace (fifty-four feet) is scarcely 
I)erceptible. Between the garden 
of the Luxembourg and the Obser- 
vatory is the spot where the unfor- 
tunate Marshal Ney was shot, in 
1815. 

This palace and picture gallery 
are open to the public on Sundays, 
from ten till four. Strangers are 
admitted on any day on producing 
their passports, except Monday. 

Outside the garden, at the cor- 
ner of the Rue Moliere, is the 

TMatre Od4on — This was the 
first Parisian theatre lighted with 
gas, and the only one on the south- 
em bank of the Seine- 
Returning up the garden by the 
avenue to the Boulevard Mont 
Parnasse, turning to the right, will 
lead to the celebrated summer 
garden, the 

Chaumiere, tastefully laid out with 
flowers, shrubs, gravel walks, &c., 
a restaurant and caf6 are also 
attached, and for the larger and 
smaller juvenile the Swiss, or more 
properly speaking, the Russian 
mountain,will be found an agreeable 
amusement. This garden is open 
on Sunday, Monday, and Thursday 
evenings for dancing, and is much 
frequented by medical students, 



and as a curiosity, it is worthy a 
visit even in the evening, but after 
a fatiguing course through the 
Luxembourg, a few francs invested 
for a substantial lunch will be well 
bestowed. On leaving the Ghau- 
miere turn to the left round the 
corner to the 

Cimetiere Mont Parnasse. — This 
cemetery contains the graves of 
several persons condemned for 
political offences, with those of 
several modern republicans, and 
of Fieschi, Pepin, and Morey, who 
conspired against the life of Louis 
Philippe in 1835, as well as of Aii- 
baud, who repeated the same crime 
in 1836. The number of tombs is 
about 2,000. 

Leaving the Cimetiere, take the 
Boulevard d'Enfer, Rue de Lacaille, 
left Rue d'Enfer to the 

Hospice des Enfans Trouves.— 
This institution was founded in 
1638, by St Vincent de Paule, who 
conceived the philanthropic idea of 
putting a stop to the barbarous 
practice of exposing children to the 
inclemency of the season, and offer- 
ing them for sale. Children of 
robust constitution were put out to 
nurse in the country until they 
attained the age of eleven years, 
when they were removed to the 
Orphan Asylum, or to situations 
where they were enabled to earn 
their subsistence, and become use- 
ful members of society. Weak 
and sickly children were separated 
from the healthy, and, no means 
were unemployed to adapt the 
temperature to the constitution of 
the child. The utmost cleanli- 
ness prevailed in this establishment. 
The number of children received 
yearly averaged from 5,000 to 
6,000. They were admitted night 
and day, at all hours, and not a 
question was ever asked; in short, 
the mother who deposited her in- 
fant needed not be seen ; she had 
merely to place it in a box, and by 
ringing a bell communicating with 



PAEIS. — FKIDAY. OBSERTATOIRE. 



Zft 



the interior, it was taken in. The 
chapel of this hospital is ornament- 
ed with a fine statue of St Vincent 
de Paule, by Stoup. The care of 
the houses is intrusted to the 
Soeurs de la Charite. 

Foundling hospitals have lately 
undergone a total change. Govern- 
ment has suppressed the box where 
the children were deposited, and 
for a child now to be received at 
this hospital it is necessary that a 
certificate of its abandenment 
should be produced, signed by a 
commissary of pohce. This officer 
cannot refuse to give such a cer- 
tificate on being applied to; but it 
is his duty to admonish the mother 
for abandoning her child. Stran- 
gers are admitted on requesting 
permission at the bureau. 

In the same building is the 

Hospice des Orphelins, for the 
reception of orphans of both sexes, 
from two to twelve years of age, 
who are treated with paternal care, 
both with regard to their health 
and education. 

Observatoire, erected in 1667, 
from designs by Claude Perrault, 
and is composed of four principal 
members, which are a square tower, 
whose faces are turned towards 
the four cardinal points ; a pro- 
jecting pile towards the north, 
whose fa9ade is surmounted by a 
pediment ; and two octagonal 
towers on the south. This eleva- 
tion consists of a ground-floor, an 
entresol, and a second story which 
receives light from large arched 
windjws. It is completely vaulted 
throughout, and has no wood and 
but little iron in its composition. 
The roof forms a terrace. On the 
summit is an anemometer, for 
measuring the force of the wind, 
and a pluviameter for ascertaining 
the quantity of rain which falls at 
Paris. The surface of the plat- 
form is eighty -three feet above the 
ground. 



The Observatory is open to 
strangers every day. 

Behind the Observatory is the 
Barriere d'Arcueil, or St Jacques, 
inside of which the guillotine is 
erected whenever it becomes neces- 
sary to carry the last sentence of 
the law into effect. 

In this neighbourhood, although 
closed perhaps for ever, is that 
singular place, the 

Catacombs, the Hospices Cochin, 
d'A.ccouchement, and Hospital des 
Veneriens, the interiors of which 
may be seen by applying at the 
entrances. 

Descending the Eue faubourg St 
Jacques, we come to the 

Church Vol de Grace. -Queen 
Anne of Austria, having been 
married twenty-two years without 
issue, made a vow to build a church 
if her desire to give an heir to the 
throne should be realised. Having 
afterwards given birth to Louis 
XIV, this prince, in 1645, then 
seven years old, laid the first stone 
in great pomp. During the Kevo- 
lution this church was converted 
into a magazine for the effects of 
the military hospitals. It was re- 
stored to divine worship in 1826. 
The Convent of the Val de Grace 
was converted into a military hos- 
pital under Napoleon, which desti- 
nation it still retains Strangers 
cannot enter the hdspital, but may 
see the church daily. 

Still descending the Rue St 
Jacques the next object on the left 
is the Deaf and Dumb, or 

Institution des Sourds-Muets. — 
Strangers are admitted daily, but 
to view the public exercises, which 
take place about once a month, 
apply by letter, post-paid, to M. le 
Directeur, or by writing name and 
address, a few days beforehand, in 
a book at the porter's lodge. 

Adjoining this institution is the 
church 

St Jacques du Haut Pas. — This 



378 



PARIS.— FRIDAY. PANTHEON* 



church was built in 1630, by dona- 
tions from the Princesse de Longue • 
ville, and the zeal of the workmen 
of the parish, who sacrificed one 
day per week to the completion of 
the edifice. Much stone was also 
furnished gratuitously from the 
quarries of the neighbourhood. 

Nearly opposite St Jacques du 
Haut Pas is the Convent of the 
Dames de la Visitation, now used 
by the Soeurs de St Michel. On 
the same side of the street were 
the convents of the Ursulines and 
the Feuillantines ; and between the 
latter and the Convent of the Val 
de Grace, was a house of English 
Benedictines, where part of the 
remains of James 11 was buried, 
after bequeathing his head, heart, 
and bowels to the British College. 
It is now used as a school. 

We must still continue the ancient 
but not very pleasant street as far 
as the place Soufflot, in which 
stands the 

Pantheon, the ancient church 
erected by Glovis, and dedicated 
originally to the apostles Peter and 
Paul, and which has subsequently 
been consecrated to Ste. Genevieve, 
in consequence of the interment of 
that saint in this church in the 
year 512 ; Louis XIV, having 
determined to erect a structure 
that should be at once a monument 
of his power, and an evidence of 
the progress that had been made 
in the fine arts during the eigh- 
teenth century. The first stone 
was laid on the 6th of September, 
1764. The portico consists of a 
peristyle formed of twenty-two 
fluted Corinthian columns, of which 
six are in front, elevated on a flight 
of steps, and supporting a triangu- 
lar pediment, in which is a bas- 
relief. These columns are fifty- 
eight feet three inches in height, 
and five and a half feet in diameter. 
On the plinth is the following in- 
scription :—'"Aux grands homines la 



patrie reconnaissante" The totai 
height of this edifice, from the, 
ground to its summit, is 249 feet: 
four inches. 

The interior, in the form of a, 
Greek cross, is composed of four 
naves and aisles similar in form, 
but of unequal dimensions, at the^ 
union of which rises the dome. 
The total length of the edifice,: 
within the wall, is 282 feet, and its- 
greatest width 238. The height of 
the ceiling of the naves, from the 
beautiful marble pavement, is 170 
feet. The naves are divided from the 
aisles by 130 fluted Corinthian co-, 
lumnsjthirty-seven feet seven inches: 
in height, and three feet six inches in^ 
diameter. Above the entablature, 
rises a peristyle, composed of si?;*- 
teen Corinthian columns, supporting, 
a cupola, in which is an opening 
twenty -nine feet five inches in 
diameter, whence a second cupola, 
may be observed, on which is a 
painting in fresco, by Baron Gros, 
representing the apotheosis of Ste. 
Genevieve. This magnificent com- 
position extends over a superficies 
of 3,256 square feet, and occupied 
a time equal to six entire years of 
labour. To see the entire of this 
chef-d'oeuvre it is necessary to 
mount to the balcony of the second 
cupola,, as, only a part of it can be" 
seen from the pavement of the 
church. 

The vaults contain the tombs of 
Voltaire and Rousseau, Mirabeau, 
Pelletier, Lagrange, Bougainville, 
Cardinal Erskine, the Dutch Ad- 
miral de Winter ; Marechal Lannes, 
and Vice- Admiral Thevenard, are 
amongst those who have received 
the honours of the Pantheon. The 
body of Marat was interred here by 
a decree of the 21st September, 
1793 ; but on the 27th July, 1794,. 
his remains were disinterred by the 
populace^ and thrown into the pub-' 
lie sewer in the Rue Montmartre.. 
At the extremity of one of the pas- 



PARIS. — FKIDAT. ECOLB POLTTECHIflQCE. 



379 



sages in these vaults is a remark- 
able echo. 

The visitor is strongly recom- 
mended to ascend the dome, which, 
from being the most elevated build- 
ing in the capital, affords a view 
at once the most extensive and 
the most remarkable. Strangers 
are readily admitted on applica- 
tion, and paying a small gratuity 
to the men who show the edifice. 

The Ecole de Droit stands in front 
of the Pantheon, and was erected 
by Soufflot, hi 1771. The fijst 
estabUshment of regular schools of 
law in France dates from 1384, and 
the re-organization of the Faculty 
of Paris took place in 1762, by 
order of Louis XV. 

A building of the same style of 
architecture was to be erected on 
the opposite side of the Place du 
Pantheon, and is to serve as the 
mairie of the arrondissement. This 
institution was called Lycee-Napo- 
leon in 1802, and assumed its pre- 
sent name in 1814. The young 
princes of the reigning families in 
France have been brought up at 
this college. 

Saint JEtienne du Mont. — •This 
Ghurch was originally a chapel of 
ease to the church of St Genevieve, 
but permission for any other pubHc 
entrance to the edifice than that 
through the church of St Gene- 
vieve could never be obtained from 
the abbe, till the year 1517, in 
which it was rebmlt, almost in its 
present dimensions. The exterior 
of this edifice possesses but little 
merit ; the first stone was laid by 
Margaret de Valois, in 1610. 

By the Rue St Etienne into the 
Rue Descartes, in which is the 

Ecole Poll/technique. — This school 
was founded in 1794. Its object is 
to form pupils for the service of the 
artillery, for the military and naval 
service, in the art of constructing 
bridges and highways, in mining, 
&c, and for the general diffusion of 
instruction in the mathematical, 



physical, chemical, and geogra- 
phical arts. From the time of its 
commencement, this school has had 
a high reputation for the excellence 
of the methods of instruction 
adopted by its able professors, and 
for the distinguished characters it 
has produced. The pupils instructed 
here are 300 in number, and be- 
tween the ages of sixteen and twenty, 
who can only gain admission by 
undergoing a severe examination 
in several branches of science. The 
price of instruction is 1,000 frs. i)er 
annum ; the pupils providing them- 
selves with miiform, books, and 
other objects necessary to the pur- 
suit of their studies. Twenty-four 
pupils here are altogether at the 
expense of government, of which 
eight are in the nomination of the 
Minister of the Interior, four of the 
Minister of Marine, and twelve of 
the JMinister of War. No person 
can be admitted into the artillery 
who has not been brought up here. 
Strangers cannot see this school 
without permission of the under- 
governer, who resides on the 
premises. 

This part of Paris abounds with 
relics of antiquity. In the Rile des 
Carmes and the Rue St Jean de 
Beauvais are several of the old 
colleges of the university, now 
appropriated to other purposes. 
The largest of these was once the 
College de Lisieux, the buildings of 
which still remain entire, and with 
the chapel, a valuable edifice of the 
14th century, are worthy of a visit. 
It fronts the Marche des Carmes, 
and is now used as the Magasin 
Central des Hopitaux Militaires. In 
the same street was the College de 
St Jean de Beauvais and the 
College de Presle, some remains of 
the latter of which may perhaps be 
made out. In it Peter Ranaus was 
massacred during the St Barthe-' 
lemi. In the Rue des Carmes will 
be found, at No. 23, the ColUge des 
Lombardsy once the principal Irish 



380 



PARIS. — PRIDAT. HALLE AUX VINS. SATURDAY. 



college, which, with its chapel of the 
17th century, still exists. 

No. .37 Rue de la Montague St 
Genevieve was the College de la 
Marche, now occupied by various 
families. 

At Nos. 101 and 102, in the Rue 
St Victor, is the Seminaire de St 
Nicolas du Chardonnet, a large plain 
building. At No. 76 is the ancient 
College du Cardinal Lemoine, founded 
in 1300. Few parts of the original 
building now exist, but the massive 
doors of the gateway still bear marks 
of a cardinal's hat and arms, and 
are covered with iron spear-heads. 

The only remaining Institution 
to be seen in the Rue St Victor, 
which is reached by the Rue Fosses 
St Victor, is the 

Institulion des Jeunes Aveugles. — 
It contains sixty blind boys, and 
thirty girls, who are maintained at 
the expense of the state for eight 
years. Blind children are also ad- 
mitted as boarders. The gratuitous 
pupils must not be under ten nor 
above fourteen years of age ; they 
are required to produce certificates 
of their birth, total blindness, free- 
dom from contagious diseases and 
idiotcy, also of their parents' good 
conduct, and indigence. They are 
taught music, reading, arithmetic, 
writing, by means of characters 
raised in relief, and various trades, 
in all of which they excel. Ad- 
mittance from eleven to one, and 
from three to five to see work. 

On the right, in the Rue Projete, 
is the 

Halle mix Vins. — The entrance to 
which is from the quay. 

This magnificent market is divid- 
ed into streets called after different 
kinds of wine, as follows : Rue de 
Champagne, Rue de Bourgogne, 
Ru2 de Bordeaux, Rue de Langue- 
doc, and Rue de la Cote d'Or. On 
the side next the quay are ofiices for 
those who superintend the entrance 
and departure of the wines, and a 
great number of wine-merchants' 



counting-houses. The piles of build- 
ing are seven in number, four in 
front, and three in the background. 
And the whole will contain together 
450,000 casks. In the background 
is a pile appropriated to spirits. 
In its construction there is neither 
wood nor iron. The number of 
casks that enter in one day is fre- 
quently 1,500. The halle is open to 
the public from six to six in the 
summer, and from seven to five in 
winter. 

Omnibuses pass this spot every^ ten 
minutes to the west-end. 

SATURDAY. 

By omnibus to the Place Bastille, 
Boulevard Bourdon, Depot des 
Poudres et Salpetres, Grenier 
de Reserve, Arsenal, Library, 
Convent Celestins, Acien Hotel 
St Paul, Establishment for 
purifying the Seine water, An- 
tiquities, Quai Celestins, Ponts 
Damiette et Constantine, Quai 
St Bernard, Garden of Plants, 
Menagerie, Cabinet of Natural 
History, Zoology, Mineralogy, 
and comparative Anatomy, 
Hopital de la Pitie, Rue Jar- 
din du Roi, Rue des Fosses 
St Marcel, Gobelins tapestry, 
two to four (with passjiort), 
Right Rue Mouffetard, Barriers 
d'ltalie, Bouvelard de I'Hopital, 
Marche aux Chevaux, Hopital, 
Salpetriere, Prison of the Na- 
tional Guard, Pont de Auster- 
litz, home by omnibus, ca- 
briolet or coach ; first will cost 
6 sous, the second 20 sous, the 
last 30 sous, without stopping. 
In either case you will have the 
worth of your money. 

On arriving at the Place Bastille, 
take the Boulevard Bourbon, the 
first street on the right. Rue Ceri- 
saye, in which is the depot for 
powder, and a manufactory for per- 
cussion caps for the use of the army. 



PARIS. — SATURDAY. GARDEN OF PLANTS. 



381 



Proceed down the Rue de I'Orme, 
on the left, is the 

Grenier de Reserve. — A general 
warehouse for the corn, grain, and 
flour, required by the city of Paris 
for four months' consumption. It 
is 2,160 feet in length by sixty-four 
in breadth. Every baker in Paris 
is obliged to keep constantly depo- 
sited here twenty full-sized sacks 
of flour ; and, besides this, has the 
liberty of keeping here as much 
flour, &c., in store as he pleases, 
upon payment of a moderate charge 
for warehouse room. The building 
will contain fully 100,000 sacks; 
the cellars are used as a supplemen- 
tary entrepot for wine. During 
the prevalence of the cholera at 
Paris, in 1832, it was converted 
into a temporary hospital. 

A visit to the interior will 
scarcely repay the trouble required 
to obtain it. Close to the guard- 
house the gateway on the right 
brings us opposite the 

Arsenal, although these build- 
ings are no longer used as an arse- 
nal. The object which principally 
interests the stranger is the apart- 
ment in which Henry IV used to 
visit his friend Sully, after his 
creation to the office of grand mas- 
ter of the artillery, when he took 
up his residence here. The ceiling, 
painted by Mingard, represents 
France triumphant. Amongst the 
articles which undoubtedly belong 
to the time of Sully, are a writing 
desk ornamented with black var- 
nish and copper gilt ; and another 
desk with shelves for books. 

On the 28th of January, 1563, a 
dreadful accident occurred here in 
consequence of the explosion of 
15,000 or 20,000 lbs. of gunpowder. 
Thirty persons were blown to 
pieces, and a much larger number 
received dangerous wounds; several 
houses were destroyed, and some 
stones thrown as far as the Fau 
bourg St Marceau ; the commo- 
motion was felt even by the fish in 



the river. The author, or cause 
of the accident, w^as never dis- 
covered. In several rooms of this 
mansion is the valuable library called 
Bibliotheque de V Arsenal. At the 
corner of the Rue St Paul, are the 
relics of part of the Hotel de St 
Paul, long a royal residence ; but 
the existing buildings are of com- 
paratively late date, and now used 
as an establishment for purifying 
the Seine water. After examining 
the process of filtering, return and 
cross over the bridges Damiette 
and Constantine to the left along 
the Quai St Bernard to the 

Garden of Plants. — Commenced 
in 1636, by Guy de la Brosse, to 
whom Louis XIII granted the neces- 
sary funds to establish here the cul- 
ture of medicinal plants Tourne- 
fort, Sebastien, Le Vaillant, Ber- 
nard de Jussieu, the indefatigable 
friends of science, developed and 
augmented it; but he who may be 
considered as its real creator was 
the illustrious Buffon, who, becom • 
ing intendant of this establishment, 
brought it by incessant care to the 
degree of splendour in which we 
now see it. Every branch of na- 
tural history, all the riches of the 
three kingdoms of nature, animal^ 
vegetable, and mineral, are here 
united. Lectures given by the most 
illustrious scientific characters, and 
by the members of the institute, 
and of European reputation, ren- 
der this establishment unrivalled 
throughout the world, the true 
sanctuary of science, the centre 
from which every branch springs 
and to which all are attached. 
Zealous propagators of this science, 
j travellers in the pay of the govern- 
ment, overrun all parts of the world, 
and add continually to these pre- 
! cious collections. The vegetable 
j riches, from the smallest blade of 
I grass to the immense cedar of 
I Libanus, are here planted in soil 
} suitable to their growth, and protect- 
ed from injury and decay. All these 



382 



PAKIS.-r-SATUKDAT. GARDEN OF PLANTS. 



plants are classed after th€ method ! 
of Jussieu, and the foreign natural- 
ist, unacquainted with the French 
idiom, may pursue his studies as 
easily as a native, by means of the 
Latin inscriptions affixed to each 
family and genus. To these trea- 
sures are united : a superb hall of 
anatomy, a very numerous mena- 
gerie of living animals; immense 
collections of minerals and stuffed 
animals ; a vast library, laboratories, 
and a magnificent amphitheatre. 
No species of animal is omitted, not 
even those of the antediluvians, 
whose existence was revealed to us 
by the celebrated Cuvier, and 
proved by fragments of fossil bones 
found in the bowels of the earth. 
On entering the 

Garden by the principal gate, 
opposite to the bridge of Austerlitz, 
it appears longitudinally divided 
into three parts. At the extremity 
of the grand avenue, bordered by 
lime and chesnut trees, is seen the 
Museum of Natural History. On 
the right are the Menagerie, Aviary, 
and, further on, the Cabinet of Com- 
parative Anatomy, the Botanic Gal- 
lery, the Swiss Valley, Labyrinth, 
&c. Before arriving at the Botanic 
Garden, which extends in front of 
the Museum of Natural History, 
the stranger will observe some en- 
closures, probably more interesting 
to the agriculturist than to the 
casual observer. One contains a cu- 
rious collection of every different soil 
and manure, exhibiting in an in- 
structive manner their comparative 
fertility and value. Others are oc- 
cupied with specimens of every 
kind of fence, hedge, ditch, &c., and 
the method of training espalier 
fruits and evergreens of all descrip- 
tions. Beyond those are beds of 
culinary vegetables, and every plant 
appropriated to the food of man, 
with the most approved mode of 
training each ; together with some 
systematically arranged specimens 
of fruit trees. Further on is the 



Botanic Garden, where 6,500 kinds 
of plants are arranged according to 
the method of Jussieu. Each one 
bears a label indicative of its name, 
its family, and its class. The beds 
are divided by hedges of box- wood. 
A piece of water supplied from the 
Seine is appropriated to the aquatic 
plants. There are five hot-houses, 
which have been constructed in 
proportion as this museum has 
become enriched with the fruits of 
the labours of botanists employed 
to collect specimens in the most 
distant parts of the globe. The 
greenhouse, 200 feet in length, 
twenty -four in width, and twenty- 
seven in height, is never heated 
but when the thermometer descends 
below the freezing point. It serves 
as a shelter for plants from the 
southern hemisphere. Every plant 
here is likewise labelled. Passing 
by the amphitheatre, the stranger 
arrives at the foot of a small eleva- 
tion, the ascent to which is by some 
narrow alleys, which, encircling the 
hill in a spiral direction, have been 
called a labyrinth. On the summit 
is a kiosk, whence a fine view of 
the surrounding country is obtained, 
and where a person is usually in 
attendance with a telescope to show 
and explain the different objects 
within view. On the summit of 
this kiosk is a rotunda in bronze. 
Halfway down the hill is the famous 
cedar of Lebanon, brought from 
England by Bernard de Jussieu, 
and planted in 1734. Near it is a 
column of granite which serves for 
the tomb of the celebrated Dauben- 
ton, who consecrated fifty years of 
a peaceful and laborious life to the 
study of nature in this museum. 
At a short distance from the foot 
of the hill, near the Bureau d'Ad- 
ministration, is a dair}^ where milk, 
eggs, fruit, or coffee may be pro- 
cured. The entrance to the amphi- 
theatre, in which are delivered the 
lectures on chemistry, anatomy, 
and medicine, is ornamented with 



PARIS.-^»ATnEIiAT. HOPITAL DE LA PITIE. 



383 



two fine palm trees from Sicily, 
twenty-^five feet in height. 

'I'he Menagerie was removed 
from Versailles to this garden in 
1704. 

Cabinet of Zoology. — The rooms 
which contain the zoological collec- 
tions, are arranged according to 
the system of Baron Cnvier. The 
nimiber of mammaUa amounts to 
upwards of 1,500 individuals, be- 
longing to more than 500 species. 
On leaving the gallery of rumi- 
nating animals, we re-enter that of 
birds. The collection comprehends 
upwards of 6,000 individuals, be- 
longing to more than 2,300 diffe- 
rent species of the most complete 
in existence ; and the spectacle 
which they afford is beautiful and 
interesting. In the rooms below 
are placed the collection of reptiles. 
It consists of 1,800 individuals, be- 
longing to more than 500 species, 
divided into four orders, namely, 
-chelonians, or tortoises; saurians, 
which comprehend the crocodiles, 
lizards, &c. ; ophidians, or ser- 
pents; and batricians, to which the 
toads, the frogs, &c , are referred. 
The Collection of Fishes compre- 
hends about 5,000 individuals, be- 
longing to more than 2,500 species. 
The Collection of articulated animals 
without vertehrce consists of 25,000 
species, and is divided into five 
classes. 

On leaving this building, cross 
towards the left, beyond the am- 
phitheatre, to the Gallery of 

Comparative Anatomy. — It occu- 
pies fifteen rooms. 

On the opposite side of the gar- 
den, in a new building erected for 
the purpose, is the library and the 
extensive collection of 

Mineralogy and Geology. — The 
principal gallery is divided into a 
central alley, with wide raised gal- 
leries on each side, the under parts 
of the galleries being occupied by 
laboratories, &c. The mineralo- 
gical collection is divided into four 



grand classes ; first, earthy sub- 
stances, containing an acid; second, 
earthy substances or stones; third, 
inflammable substances ; fourth, 
metals. The second class of mine- 
rals. The specimens of the tertiary 
formations are relics of the ex- 
ertions of the great Cuvier, to 
whom the whole of this part of the 
museum may be said to owe its 
existence. The number of mine- 
ralogical and geological specimens 
amount to upwards of 600,000. 

Botanical GaUery. — This collec- 
tion comprises, in the rooms of the 
upper division, a general herbal, 
consisting of about 50,000 species. 
The total number of dried plants 
preserved here exceeds 350,000; 
and the woods, fruits, and grains, 
more than 4,000. 

It is to be regretted that this de- 
partment of the museum is only 
open on Thursday from two to four 
o'clock. 

It is almost needless to observe 
that these most curious, rare, and 
precious collections, would require 
many weeks to inspect them in 
detail, and many years to fuUy 
appreciate their contents as they 
deserve. 

The hours of admission on Satur- 
days are : to the gallery of zoology, 
from eleven to three ; to the gallery 
of mineralogy, from eleven to three ; 
to the gallery of comparative ana- 
tomy, from eleven to two; to. th^ 
school of botany, from three to 
five. 

Tickets are given (each to admit 
four persons) to strangers on pre- 
senting passports at the offices of 
the administration, in the right 
hand corner, beyond the amphi- 
theatre. 

Behind the Garden of Plants is 
the 

Hopitalde la Pitie. — This hospital 

was created a dependence of the 

Hotel Dieu, 1809. It contains 600 

beds. 

Leaving the garden by the gate 



3S4 



PARIS. - SATURDAY, HOSPICE DE LA SALTPETRIERE. 



at the east end of the zoological 
gallery, turn to the left into the Rue 
Jardin du Roi. The third coach 
turning on the right (Rue Fosses 
St Marcel) will lead direct to the 
entrance into the 

Gobelin's Manufactory. — This cele- 
brated establishment owes its origin 
to a family named Gobelin, who 
commenced here in 1450 a manu- 
factory for the dyeing of wool, in 
which he and his family amassed 
considerable wealth. 

In this manufacture the work- 
man has his frame before him, 
with the warp in a vertical posi- 
tion, on which the outline of the 
subject has been traced in pencil 
marks, and his model behind him, 
to which he occasionally refers in 
order to compare his colours with 
that part of the painting he is 
copying. 

It requires occasionally the labour 
of from two to six years to finish a 
single piece of tapestry, the cost of 
which often amounts from 18,000 to 
20,000 fr. The productions of this 
manufactory are chiefly destined 
for the royal palaces, or for presents 
made by the king. To which is 
annexed the celebrated carpet ma- 
nufactory, which was created a 
royal establishment in 1604, by 
Maria de Medicis. The carpets 
manufactured here are far superior 
to those of Persia. A descriptive 
and historical catalogue, price 15 
sous, may be had at the lodge. 
Admission with pass oorts, on Wed- 
nesdays and Saturdays, from one 
to three in winter, and from two to 
four in summer. 

On leavin i the Gnhelins take the 
right to the Barriere d'ltalie, by 
which the road to Fontainbleau 
and the south east of France passes, 
left to the Boulevard de I'Hopi- 
tal, on the right is the Abattoir de 
Villenuif so called from a small 
village without the walls of the 
town. In plan and appearance 
this slaughter house is a counter- 



part of the other buildings appro- 
priated to the same purpose. 

Further on the left is the 

Marche aux Chevaux, or horse 
market originally established on 
the Boulevard des Capucines, in 
1604, by Henry IV, and was trans- 
ferred hither in 1641, 

On the same spot is held the 

Marche aux Ckiens, or dog mar- 
ket, every Sunday from twelve till 
two. 

To reach and pass through the 
horse market by descending the 
Rue de Marche aux Chevaux, No. 7, 
is the beer brewery of M. Chapuis, 
who has the most spacious stores 
for his casks of any brewer in the 
world. They form part of the old 
quarries from which ancient Paris 
was built, and are a continuation of 
the catacombs, the cellars of which 
are well worthy a visit from their 
apparently interminable vastness 
and singular appearance. Apply at 
the counting house of the brewery, 
when a person will be sent to ac- 
company you to this subterranean 
world. 

After passing through the mar- 
ket, opposite stands the 

Hospice de la Saltpelriere. — At the 
beginning of the reign of Louis 
XIV, the civil war had drawn an 
immense number of beggars to 
Paris ; and in 1656 the establish- 
ment of a general hospital for their 
confinement was ordained. In 
1662, from 9>000 to 10,000 paupers 
were admitted here. It is now 
exclusively appropriated to the re- 
ception of women, who are divided 
into five classes, viz. : first, repo- 
santes, or aged servants of the hos- 
pitals ; second, infirm, or eighty 
years of age; third, those seventy 
years of age, or inflicted with incu- 
rable wounds; fourth, the indigent; 
fifth, epileptic persons and lunatics. 
The total number, 1,400, are occu- 
pied by lunatics, idiots, or epileptic 
patients. The lunatics, of whom 
there are about three -fifths danger- 



PARIS. - SATUKDAT. THEATRES. 



385 



ously mad, and the rest not so 
heavily afflicted, are kept in sepa- 
rate infirmaries, and are treated 
with the greatest care and atten- 
tion. The latter are allowed to 
amuse themselves in the occu- 
pations they choose. There is a 
small market within the walls of 
this establishment, where prices 
are regulated by the administration 
of the hospital. The offices are 
all on a most extensive scale, and a 
visit to this hospital cannot be but 
highly interesting and gratifying to 
every friend to humanity. Stran- 
gers are readily admitted on apply- 
ing with passport at the porter's 
lodge, when an attendant will show 
them round. A small gratuity is 
expected. 

Omnibuses, coaches, and cabs are 
always in attendance at the gate of 
the Garden of Plants. 

THEATRES. 

Theatre Francalse contains three 
tiers of boxes, with two amphi- 
theatres ; the first and second tiers 
being supported by light pillars of 
cast iron; but at the third tier is 
a range of Doric columns, which 
support the ceiling ; and the seats 
of the pit are furnished with backs. 
The number of places is 1,522. 
This theatre is regarded as the 
standard one of the whole country. 

Doors open at half - past six 
o'clock, and the performances com- 
mence at seven. Price of admis- 
sion: first places, 6 fr. 60 c; par- 
terre, 2 fr. 20 c. 

Academie Royale de Musique 
(French Opera), Rue Lepelletier. 
This theatre was erected by Deb- 
ret, and opened in the summer of 
1821, the ancient Opera house in 
the Rue Richelieu having been de- 
molished by order of government on 
account of the assassination, at the 
door, of the Due de Berry, in 1820. 
The principal front, whose eleva- 
tion is sixty-four feet, is towards 



the Rue Lepelletier. The interior 
contains four tiers of boxes sup- 
ported by Corinthian columns, 
painted blue and adorned with 
gilding; its dimensions are sixty 
feet from side to side, and the stage 
is forty-two feet wide by eighty- two 
deep. This theatre is capable of 
containing 1,937 persons 

The performances take place on 
Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays, 
and sometimes on Sundays. Open 
at six, and commences at seven. 

Opera Comique, Place Favart. 
The fa9ade of this theatre, orna- 
mented with Ionic and Corinthian 
columns, was re-built in 1839. The 
interior is of a circular form, con- 
taining three rows of boxes and 
two galleries; with sufficient room 
for 1,200 persons. Open at six, 
begins at seven. 

Theatre Italien (Italian Opera 
house), Rue Marsollier, This thea- 
tre is 154 feet in length by 110 in 
breadth. The principal front, next 
the Rue Neuve des Petits Champs, 
is composed of the Doric and Ionic 
orders of architecture. The interior 
is in the form of a half circle, and 
decorated with columns of the com- 
posite order. The saloon, which is 
magnificent, is lighted up by seve- 
ral splendid lustres, and admirably 
adapted for balls, for which it has 
a great reputation. Is open but six 
months in the year, from the 1st 
of October to the 31st of March, 
and the performances take place on 
Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Satur- 
days. 

Vaudeville, Place de la Bourse. 
Doors open at half- past five; com- 
mences at half-past six. 

Palais Royal, Rue de Yalois and 
Galerie Montpensier. This pretty 
little theatre, built on the site of 
the Cafe de la Paix, and the ancient 
theatre Montpensier, was opened 
in 1831. Farces and vaudevilles 
are acted here ; opens at a quarter 
past six, begins at a quarter before, 
seven. 



386 



PARIS.^EXHIBITIOKS. PUBLIC GARDENS, ETC. 



Cirque Olympique, on the Boule- 
vard du Temple. The front is plain ; 
the interior, besides a stage, con- 
tains a circus in the place of the 
pit, and it holds 1,800 persons. 
Military melodramas, in which 
horses perform, are represented 
here, with equestrian exercises. 
The prices of admission vary from 
1 fr. to 4 fr., and the performances 
begin at six to seven. 

The summer theatre is in the 
Champs Elysees. It is a spacious 
polygonal building of sixteen sides, 
in stone, with an elegant pediment- 
ed porch to the east. Ornamental 
panels with horses heads are on the 
sides, and with the cornices that 
run round the edifice, are tastefully 
picked out in colours. The interior 
presents the appearance of an im- 
mense Moorish hall, the roof being 
supported by light iron columns, 
which with the panels are painted 
in rich and well harmonizing co- 
lours, and gilt. The ceiling is taste- 
fully arranged in compartments, 
on which equestrian figures arc 
represented; and from its centre, 
over the circus, hangs a chandelier 
with 130 gas jets. Round the cir- 
cus are ranged sixteen concentric 
circles of seats, holding 6,000 per- 
sons; the lower half being fitted up 
as stalls. Opposite the entrance is 
the orchestra, with the door leading 
to the menage, and other appen- 
dages of the theatre. The entrance 
is 1 and 2 fr., and the perform- 
ances, which are only equestrian ex- 
ercises, commence at eight. 

Theatre de M. Comte, Passage 
Choiseul. The actors, who are all 
children, perform vaudevilles, co- 
medies, &c., with great ability. It 
is for children, one of the most in- 
teresting of the Parisian theatres. 

Gymnase des Enfants, Passage de 
rOpera. Resembles the preced- 
ing; but is not so attractive. Estab- 
lished in 1829. 

Theatre Seraphin, 121 Palais 
Rof aL This is a kind of puppet 



show, with mechanical figures, 
called Ombres Chinoises, &c., and 
is the delight of children and nurse- 
ry maids. 

Concerts. The only one now open 
is in the Rue Vivienne, where a 
large orchestra of performers play 
all the music in vogue. Admission 
one franc. 

Occasional and Morning Concerts 
are frequent in all seasons, biit 
particularly in winter. They gene- 
rally take place at the Conservatoire 
de Musique, No. 2, Rue Bergere, in 
the saloons of the several theatres, 
or in rooms belonging to some of 
the principal musical instrument 
makers. 

Exhibitions, Public Gardens, 
Balls, ^c. 

Navalorama. — At the entrance of 
the Champs Elysees a Naval Pan- 
orama is to be seen, in which the 
vessels and water are in motion, 
and will be found worthy a visit.. 

Panorama. — In the Champs Ely- 
sees, near the river- side, is another 
exhibition of this description, simi- 
lar to those so well known in Lon- 
don. 

Chinese and Japanese Museum, 
Boulevard St Denis. 

Model of St Peter's at Rome, Rue 
Bergere, No. 2, at the Menus 
Plaisirs. 

Salon de Figures, 54 Boulevard 
du Temple. This is an exhibition 
of wax-work representations of ce- 
lebrated characters, some of which 
are executed with excellent effect. 

Combat des Animaux, Barriere 
du Combat. This spectacle is to be 
seen only on Sundays, Mondays, 
and festivals, and is attended by a 
few amateurs of peculiar taste. The 
spectacle begins at three to four 
o'clock. Admittance 75 c. to 2 frs. 

Jeux de Paume ( Tennis-courts).— 
There were several buildings ap- 
propriated to these exercises; but 
at present the only two are at No. 



PARIS. — SUNDAY. DIVINE WORSHIP. 



38: 



62 Rue Mazarine and Passage 
Sandrie. 

Pigeon Shooting at the little Park 
of Monceaux, Barrier de Monceaux. 
The matches take place every Mon- 
day, Wednesday, and Friday, during 
the summer season, supported by a 
club, the elite of the French capital ; 
the director is bound to furnish 
2,000 birds a week if required. Any 
gentleman may shoot by paying 4 
frs. per day as a non- subscriber. 
During the winter the pigeons are 
9 frs. per dozen, and in the summer 
12 frs. Wild rabbit shooting, &c. 
Subscription to the club, three 
months, 40 frs.; six months, 60 
frs.; twelvemonths, 100 frs. 

Cercles. — These are societies con- 
ducted on similar principles to the 
dubs of London, the members sub- 
scribing for the support of a mag- 
nificent apartment, in which they 
assemble for the purpose of conver- 
sation, of reading the papers, and in 
some of dining ; card playing to a 
great extent is also carried on in 
them. To be admitted, the candi- 
date must be proposed by a mem- 
ber, and balloted for as in London. 

Balls. — Dancing is a favourite 
amusement with the Parisians both 
in winter and summer ; and there 
is no quarter of the capital in which 
ball rooms adapted to all classes of 
society are not to be found. The 
principal places for dancing in the 
winter are Cirque des Muses, 45 
Rue de Grenelle St Honore ; Prado, 
near the Palais de Justice ; Bal 
Montesquieu, Rue Montesquieu ; 
Salon de Mars, 75 Rue du Bac. 
Besides these there is an innumer- 
able variety of ball rooms of a 
lower description. In the summer 
dancing is principally carried on in 
various gardens within or immedi- 
ately adjoining the capital. The 



following is a list of the principal 
ones: La Chaumi^re, Boulevard 
Mont Parnasse, its garden is small 
but tastefully laid out ; La Char- 
treuse, between the observatory 
and the upper end of the Luxem- 
bourg garden ; Prado d'Ete, also 
near the observatory; Montague 
Belleville, close to the barrier. The 
amusements in these gardens, which 
are nearly similar, consist of danc- 
ing, &c. 

SUNDAY. 

Protestant Divine Service. 

In the Episcopal Church, Rue 
d'Aguesseau, Paubourg Saint Ho- 
nore. Morning, half-past eleven; 
afternoon, half-past three. 

Service performed by Bishop 
Luscomb, assisted by M. Lefevre. 

It ought to be known that a franc 
for admission to this church is de- 
manded and enforced at the doors. 

In the Chapel Marboeuf, Rue 
Chaillot, 78 bis, the third turning 
on left beyond the fountain, Champs 
Elysees, morning at eleven ; after- 
noon at three. 

Church of England service per- 
formed by the Rev. Mr Lovett. 

Wesleyan Service, Rue Royale, 
23, near the Madeleine. Morning 
at twelve ; evening at seven ; ser- 
vice performed by various ministers. 

Chapel Taitbout, Rue Provence, 
44. 

Morning at eleven, in French; 
afternoon at three, in English. 

American Service, 23 Rue de 
Varennes. 

Synagogue (Jews'), 14 Rue Neuve 
Saint Laurent, and 15 Rue Notre 
Dame de Nazareth. 

Greek C%apeZ (Russian Embassy), 
4 Rue Neuve de Berry Champs 
Elysees. 



ENYIEONS OF PAKIS. 



MONDAY. 

The Museum at Versailles is open 
only four times a week, Mon- 
days, Tuesdays, Saturdays, 
and Sundays, from ten till four. 
The railway trains start during 
the summer season every hour 
from Paris and Versailles ; 
with corresponding omnibuses. 
Those, however, who prefer 
other modes of conveyance 
will find diligences from the 
end of the Rue Rivoli, running 
frequently during the day, and 
glass coaches capable of tak- 
ing seven persons, besides the 
coachman, may be hired for 
25 frs. the day. This latter 
mode is to be preferred by a 
party, particularly on Sundays 
and fete days. For list of fares 
by railway, see Introduction. 
As the interior of Versailles is 
best described by the catalogues 
sold in various parts of the pa- 
lace, I shall confine myself to 
merely reminding my readers 
that those who wish to see the 
whole of the palace and gar- 
dens, should start not later 
than nine o'clock from Paris. 

VERSAILLES. 

This large handsome town is 
situated four leagues from the ca- 
pital, contained before the Revolu- 
tion a population more than 100,000, 
but at present 30,000 inhabitants. 

Louis XIV in 1666, became tired 
of St Germain, and converted his 
father's chateau into a splendid 
palace. The immense gardens and 
parks, the vast terraces and exca- 
vations, were executed at an incal- 



culable expense of time and labour ; 
the troops not engaged in war were 
made to assist, and 30,000 soldiers 
were niore than once simultaneously 
employed on the works. Water had 
to be brought from a great distance 
to feed the reservoirs and fountains. 
The expense of all these stupendous 
undertakings was estimated at 
nearly 40,000,000 frs. sterling. In 
1681, Louis XIV with all the court 
finally took up their residence at 
Versailles. 

From the time of Louis XIV to 
that of the great Revolution, the 
royal family, the court, the minis- 
ters, and the various public officers, 
were concentrated in the palace of 
Versailles and its dependencies. 
The furniture was of the most gor- 
geous description ; and it contained 
a large collection of the finest ob- 
jects of art of foreign countries ; it 
was all that the most refined and 
luxurious court of Europe could 
make it. But after 1792 the palace 
was cleared ; everything mov- 
able was disposed of as national 
property, and Versailles remained 
desolate. An attempt was made, 
but failed, to make it a succursal 
house to the Hotel des Invalides ; 
and it would even have been sold 
in lots, had not Napoleon preserved 
it from destruction. The estimated 
expense of fifty millions of francs, 
required for its restoration, alone 
hindered the Emperor from residing 
here ; but h'^ repaired the walls, 
fountains, &c., and restored some 
of the apartments. Louis XVIII, 
who at first wished to re-establish 
the court in it, was stopped by 
similar considerations, and limited 
his expenditure to six millions of 
francs, which were judiciously em- 



ENVIRONS OF PARIS. — VERSAILLES. 



389 



ployed in repairs and alterations. | 
Things remained in the same state \ 
during the reign of Charles X, and j 
it was reserved for king Louis 
Philippe to restore this palace to 
its ancient splendour. His present 
Majesty has not only removed all 
the petty internal arrang-ements by 
which the grand conceptions of 
Louis XIV had in process of time 
become disfigured, but has restored 
all the painted ceilings, gildings, 
&c.. has formed new galleries and 
saloons, and both improved and 
harmonized the whole edifice ; 
while, on the other hand, he has 
completely filled it with an immense 
series of paintings, sculpture, and 
works of art, illustrative of " every 
thing that has reflected honour on 
the annals of France, from the 
cradle of the monarchy down to 
the present day. " The estimated 
expense of all that has been done 
here by the king is fifteen millions 
of francs. 

Entrance Court. — The palace is 
approached from the town by the 
Place d'Armes, on the eastern side 
of which, flanking the Avenue de 
Paris, are the Royal Stables. The 
latter are now a cavalry barrack, 
and the whole used to afford 
accommodation for 1,000 horses. 
The Grand Court. 386 feet in 
width, is separated from the Place 
d'Armes by stone parapets. The 
court rises towards the palace on 
the slope of the hill, with sixteen 
marble statues. Those on the right 
are Richelieu, Bayard, Colbert, 
Jourdan, Massena, Tourville, Du- 
guay-Trouin, and Turenne ; those 
on the left are Suger, Duguesclin, 
Sully, Lannes, Mortier, Suffren, 
Duquesne, and Conde. In the 
midst, at the upper part of the 
court, is a colossal equestrian statue 
of Louis XIV. 

The Palace. — The valuable col- 
lections are divided into five prin- 
cipal sections : 1. Historical Pic- 
tures ; 2. Portraits ; 3. Busts and 



Statues ; 4. Views of Royal Resi- 
dences, &c. ; 5. Medals and Coins. 
The historical pictures represent 
the great battles, military and 
naval, that have honoured the 
arms of Prance from the earliest 
periods ; the most remarkable 
historical events of the national 
annals ; the age of Louis XIV ; the 
reigns of Louis XVaud Louis XVI ; 
the brilliant epoch of 1792 ; the 
victories of the Republic ; the 
campaigns of Napoleon ; the prin- 
cipal events of the Empire , the 
reign of Louis XVIII ; the reign of 
Charles X ; the Revolution of 1830 ; 
the reign of Louis Philippe, and the 
lately added Constantino gallery. 
The portraits comprise the kings 
of France, from Pharamond to the 
present day ; Grand Admirals of 
France ; Constables ; Marshals ; 
celebrated warriors of France, not 
included in the foregoing ; and a 
large collection of persons of note 
of all ages and countries. The busts 
and statues comprise also a great 
number of illustrious personages, 
from the earliest times of the 
monarchy, and a supplementary 
series is to be found, elucidating 
the history of France, in the me- 
dals and coins. The views of royal 
residences have a peculiar value, 
as affording contemporaneous re- 
presentations of edifices, many of 
which no longer exist, and as illus- 
trating the dresses, &c., of the 
times when they were executed. 
The classes, enumerated above, 
have been kept together as far as 
was compatible, and continual 
additions are making every day. 

Passing from the vestibule we 
enter the 

GARDENS, : 

A description of which may be had 
at the gate for five sous. 

TUESDAY. 

The Palace, Gardens, and Park of 



390 



ENVIRONS OF PARIS. — TUESDAY. THE PALACE. 



Saint Cloud, the Manufactory 
of Sevres Porcelain. The 
modes of conveyance are by 
railway and omnibus, from 
the same starting places as to 
Versailles. As the manufac- 
tory is not open till twelve 
o'clock, your departure from 
Paris can be regulated accord- 
ingly, and by taking your 
place early in the morning 
you may secure your depar- 
ture at any hour you may fix 
on, and be set down at the 
door of the factory. Return 
through the Park, taking the 
left on entering by the Sevres 
gate, to the Lantern ; the 
Palace may be seen at all 
times, except during the resi- 
dence of any of the Royal 
Family, by giving the atten- 
dant one franc for two persons 
or two francs for a party ; 
return by railroad. 

Sevres is situated on the high 
road leading to Versailles, two 
leagues west of Paris. It is cele- 
brated for its magnificent royal 
manufactory of porcelain, which, 
since 1759, has formed part of the 
domains of the crown. The ma- 
nufactory ' of Sevres contains a 
museum, consisting of a complete 
collection of foreign china, earthen- 
ware, and pottery of France, and 
the earths of which they are com- 
posed ; with a collection of models 
of all the ornamental vases, ser- 
vices, figures, statues, &c., that 
have been made in the manufac- 
tory since its first establishment. 
These models and specimens com- 
prehend every kind of earthenware, 
from the coarsest pottery to the 
finest porcelain. The porcelain 
originally manufactured at Sevres, 
called porcelaine tendre, was a com 
position of glass and earths, sus- 
ceptible of combining by fusion. 
That now manufactured, called 
porcelaine dure, is formed of kaelin, 



from Limoges, alkali, sand, salt- 
petre, and nitre, to which, when in 
a state of fusion, clay is added. It 
requires great heat to be hardened, 
and wood alone is used. The bisr 
cuit de Sivres is this substance not 
enamelled. The workmanship of 
the royal manufactory of Sevres is 
much more highly finished than 
that of any other manufactory in 
France, notwithstanding the same 
substance is used ; and the white 
porcelain is higher in price than 
that of any other manufactory, on 
account of the exquisite and diffi- 
cult shapes of the articles. The 
painters are of the first merit, and 
the number of workmen exceed 
150. The show-rooms, which con- 
tain a splendid assortment of rich 
and costly articles, with the prices 
annexed, are open daily to stran- 
gers from twelve till four. During 
the fete of St Cloud, an exhibition 
of the productions of the manufac- 
tory takes place in the show rooms, 
which are thrown open to the 
public for three days. Application 
for tickets to see the museum must 
be made to M. Brogniart, Directeur 
de la Fabrique Royale de Porcelaine 
de Sivres, Rue St Dominique, No. 
71. 

St Cloud. — This is a small town, 
situated on the Seine, two leagues 
west of Paris, on the steep side of 
a hill, and from the railroad now 
made to it has become a place of 
daily increasing resort, and it is 
one of the healthiest places in the 
neighbourhood of Paris. 

The Palace. — This magnificent 
seat of the dukes of Orleans 
remained in their family till 1782, 
when it was purchased by Louis 
XVI for Marie Antoinette, who 
took great delight in St Cloud, 
added several buildings, and often 
visited it, accompanied by the 
king. Napoleon always enter- 
tained a marked predilection for 
the chateau of St Cloud, which had 
been the theatre of his first ele- 



ENVIRONS OF PARIS. — WEDNESDAY. ST DENIS. 



391 



vation ; for it was in the Salle de 
rOrangerie that the events of the 
18th Brumaire took place, and 
there he lived and transacted the 
aflPairs of his empire more fre- 
quently than at Paris. Charles X 
was residing in this palace when 
the Kevolution of 1830 broke out. 
It consists of a court with three 
pOes of buUdings, and other wings 
irregularly" connected with them. 

The Park and Gardens extend 
from the Seine and the road from 
Sevres to St Cloud, to beyond the 
summit of the hill, and is about 
four leagues in circumference. The 
entrance is near the bridge, and a 
wide avenue of chestnut trees runs 
parallel to the river. To the right 
of this avenue are some shops, 
and two plantations of chestnuts 
and limes, on the right of which is 
the grand cascade. Beyond, and 
stretching as far as Sevres, are 
some fine avenues, planted with 
elms, some of which are of a pro- 
digious height. The cascade of St 
Cloud is divided into la Haute 
Cascade and la Basse Cascade : at 
the summit of the first is a group 
representing the Seine and the 
Marne, each reposing upon an urn 
from which water issues. Upon 
steps from distance to distance are 
placed urns and tables from which 
water falls into basins situated one I 
above another, the last of which 
supplies by means of an aqueduct 
the lower cascade, which is sepa- 
rated from the upper one by the 
AUee du TiUet. The Basse Cas- 
cade nearly resembles a horse-shoe 
in form, and is remarkable for the 
abundance and rapid expansion of 
its waters, which fall in sheets 
from one basin to another into a 
canal 261 feet in length, by ninety- 
three in its greatest breadth ; 
along which are twelve jets d'eau. 
The architecture of the cascade is 
ornamented with rock and shell- 
work, dolphins, and other appro- 
priate emblems, and presents when 



in full play a prettj' sight. The 
grand jet d'eau, known by the 
name of the Jet Geant, is to the 
left of the cascades, situated in front 
of a fine alley ; it rises with im- 
mense force to the height of 140 
feet from a basin of which it forms 
the central point, and throws up 
5,000 gallons per minute. By the 
side of it is a small stone fountain 
of remarkable elegance. The wa- 
ters generally play every other 
Sunday in summer. One of the 
finest spots in the park is that on, 
which is built the Lantern of Dio- 
genes, erected by Napoleon, a copy 
of the monument of Lysicates at 
Athens. 

The fete of St Cloud begins every 
year on the 7th of September, and 
lasts three weeks. It is the most 
celebrated in the vicinity of Paris, 
and attracts an immense multitude, 
particularly on Sundays. It is held 
in the park, and no one, without 
having seen it, can imagine the 
number of mountebanks, and per- 
sons of all classes, who assemble 
together. 

WEDNESDAY. 

By omnibus from Porte St Denis 
to 

St Denix; Cathedral — Great 
changes have taken place in this 
church since the suppression of the 
monastery during the Revolution. 
The ensemble of the church, though 
built at so many difierent epochs, 
presents a beautiful Gothic monu- 
ment. The church was rebuilt in 
1231, by Queen Blanche and St 
, Louis. The choir was finished in 
the reign of Phihppe le Hardi, in 
1281. The bronze bas-reliefs on 
the three gates, and the grotesque 
figures with which they are sur- 
rounded, are worthy the attention 
of the curious. The large organ 
case, supported by an arcade of 
forty feet in length, which runs 



392 



ENVIRONS OF PARIS WEDNESDAY. ST DENIS/ 



along the whole breadth of the 
nave, is modern, and the produc- 
tion of the architect Duval. The 
iron railing beside the choir is 
remarkable for the beauty of its 
workmanship. 

On entering, the tomb of Dago- 
bert is situated under the four 
pillars which support the steeple. 
Opposite is that of Queen Nanthil- 
des. On the same side may be 
seen the mausoleum of Francis I. 
It is in white marble, the columns 
are of the Ionic order, fluted, and 
sixteen in number. They support 
a beautiful sculptured vault, under 
which are the recumbent figures of 
Francis and Claude his queen. 
Above are five kneeling figures in 
marble: they are those of the king, 
queeuj princes, &c. The two prin- 
cipal bas-reliefs represent the bat- 
tles of Marignan and Gerisolles. 
Opposite this chapel are to be seen 
the tombs of Louis XII and Henry 
n. The figures are Prudence, 
Justice, Temperance, and Strength. 
The naked figures of the king and 
his consort are in a recumbent 
posture. The tomb is surrounded 
with ordinary sized statues of the 
Twelve Apostles ; and the enta- 
blature bears a socle, on which are 
represented kneeling figures of the 
king and queen, and is one of the 
first monuments in the antique 
style which appeared in France. 
The tomb of Henri de Valois is of 
beautiful white marble, ornamented 
with twelve composite columns, 



and raised on a basement, in the 
form of a pedestal. Four bronze 
figures, larger than life, are placed 
at the angles, and represent the 
four cardinal virtues. In the centre 
are the figures of Henri II, and 
Queen Catherine de Medicis. The 
same personages are observed above 
the entablature, where they are 
represented in a kneeling posture ; 
sculptor unknown. 

The tombs in the subterranean 
vaults are far from remarkable as 
productions of art; but the paint- 
ings in the sacristy are particularly 
worthy of notice. 

The road leading to St Denis is 
spacious, and planted on each side 
with a double row of trees; it is 
crossed by a canal, over which 
there is a bridge. The town is 
rather commercial, and possesses 
several first-rate manufactories. 
The most remarkable is the whole- 
sale manufactory of a gum elastic 
tissue ; having a steam-engine of 
twelve horse power, and 1,200 
looms. There is also an extensive 
brewery, and two sugar houses. The 
fairs are three in number, one called 
la foire de Lendit, which dates as 
far back as 629, when it was held 
on the highway; since 1556 it has 
been confined to the town. It opens 
in the month of June, and lasts a 
fortnight ; another, which com- 
mences on the 24th February, last- 
ing also a fortnight; and the third, 
lasting nine days, which opens on 
the 9 th October. 



ROUTES FEOM PARIS. 



ROUTE 72. 

PARIS TO ORLEANS. — RAILROAD. 



Distance, 11 myr. 3 kil. 75| Eng- 
lish miles. 


STATIONS. 


Min. 


Min. 


Juvisy • 
De Savigny 
Epinay . 
Saint Michel 
Bretigny 
Marolles 
Lardy 
Etrechy 


28 

9 

7 

13 

. 7 

11 

. 10 

. 16 


Etampes . 24 
Aigviille de Guill 14 
Angervilie . 12 
Toury . . 27 
Artanay . 23 
Chevilly . 14 
Orleans arr. . 23 



Trains leave the station, near 
the Jardin des Plantes, five times a 
day with passengers, and twice 
with passengers and goods ; the 
former (fast) occupying three hours, 
the goods six hours ; the stopping 
trains occupy about four hours. 
Fai"es: first class, 12 frs. 60 c. ; se- 
cond class, 9 frs. 50 c. ; third class, 
6 frs. 35 c. 

Etampes (Seine et Oise), on the 
left bank of the Juine, or Etampes, 
has a very picturesque appearance. 
It trades in grain, meal, wood, and 
honey; and has manufactories of 
cotton counterpanes, worsed stock- 
ings, Hungary leather, parchment, 
and paper. In the environs of this 
town are caught numbers of craw- 
fish, which are much admired. A 
great number of fossils has been 
discovered here. Simoneau, the 
mayor, distinguished himself in 
1792, and the national assembly 
decreed him a monument. The 
church of St Martin, whose stone 



tower is surmounted by a more re- 
cent steeple, is interesting to the 
antiquarian ; the churches are : 
St Basile, St Giles, and Notre Dame. 
The remains of an old tower, called 
La Guinetre, is at the entrance to 
the town. 

Angervilie, a village (Seine et 
Oise), contains a curious clock. 

Toury (Eure et Loire) manufac- 
tures stockings, caps, socks, and 
gloves. 

ORLEANS. 

Inns. Du Loiret. France, and Eu- 
rope. 

Orleans, the chief town of the de- 
partment of Loiret, is an ancient 
and large city, situated on the right 
bank of the Loire. The houses in 
the most ancient part are of wood, 
and have enormous chimnies. It 
is celebrated for the siege which it 
sustained in 450 against Attila ; 
and by that of 1428 against the 
English, which last was raised by 
the famous Joan of Arc, the Maid 
of Orleans. There is a botan ic gar- 
den, a museum, and a cabinet of 
natural history. 

In the sculpture room of the 
museum are several objects worthy 
of notice. 

The principal objects which re- 
quire attention are: the cathedral, 
with its two lofty and magnificent 
symmetrical towers, 242 feet high; 
the bridge over the Loire, forming a 
communication between the Eau- 
bourg d'Olivet and the city; the 
house of Agnes Sorel, Rue du Ta- 
boury ; the monument of the Maid 
S 2 



394 



ROUTE /. 



-PARIS TO BORDEAtX. PART V. 



of Orleans, in the Place Royale du 
Martroy, the helfry tower ; the 
Hotel de Ville, in which is a portrait 
of the Maid of Orleans. 

The distant view of the environs 
is very picturesque. Orleans ap- 
pears to be half surrounded with 
green walls; the mall and several 
other places being planted with 
trees This city occupies an ad- 
vantageous position for commerce, 
being situated almost in the centre 
of France, at the junction of several 
great roads, and on a river which 
affords great facility to the convey- 
ance of goods. Its chief manufac- 
tures are blankets, printed calicoes, 
handkerchiefs, vinegar, sugar-re- 
fining, wax, leather, brandy, wines, 
china, corn, and beer. 

The canal of Orleans commences 
at Port Morand, about a league and 
a half above this city, and joins 
that of Briare at nine leagues' dis- 
tance : its whole length is eighteen 
leagues. 

The celebrated wuies of Orleans 
most esteemed are those of St Denis 
en Val, between the Loire and the 
Loiret. The vast forest of Orleans 
commences about a league north of 
the town. On the banks of the Loire 
are several villas. The Maison du 
Coutil, and the Maison Rouge, are 
both celebrated ; the former having 
been the residence of Henri IV 
and the latter that of Louis XIV. 

The Loiret is a small river which 
has its rise in the gardens of the 
chateau of La Source, one league 
and a half south-east of Orleans. 
It issues from two springs about 
140 yards from each other, and, 
after flowing for about two leagues, 
falls into the Loire, a little below 
the ancient abbey of St Mesmin. 
The waters of this stream never 
freeze, however severe the weather 
may be. The Loiret abounds with 
fish. 

Excursions.— To the Castle of Sully, 
five leagues and a half ; cross the 



village of St Denis, of Argeau ; the 
pretty little town of Chateauneuf, 
opposite is the picturesque town of 
Siglon. In the castle of Sully Vol- 
taire composed a part of ' Henriade. ' 
The ceilings of the castle are admi- 
rably ornamented. 

Steamers.— The old company's 
boats leave Orleans every morning 
at half-past six for Nantes in two 
days ; fare, first cabin, 28 frs. 2 c. ; 
second cabin, 19 frs 50 c; it takes 
three days from Nantes to Orleans. 

New Steamers descend to Nantes 
in twenty hours, and ascend in 
twenty-four hours ; fares to or from 
Nantes, 28 frs. and 20 frs. The 
boats of both companies stop at 
Tours for the night. 

Diligences to Bordeaux, Rouen, 
&c. To Tours the road lies along 
the right bank of the Loire. 

ROUTE 73. 

PARIS TO BORDEAUX BY ORLEANS, 
TOURS, AND ANGOULEME. 

Distance, 56 myr. or 346 English 
miles. 



Orleans by Railway 

Saint Ay 

Beaugency 

Mer, or Menars la Ville 

Menars le Chateau 

Blois . . . • 

Chouzy 

Veuves 

Amboise 

La Frilli^re 

Tours 

Montbazon 

Sorigny 

Sainte Maure 

Les Ormes St Martin 

Ingrande 

Chatellerault 

Les Barres de Naintre 

La Tricherie 

Clan .... 

Poitiers 

Crontelle 

Vivonne 

Les Mini^res 

Couhe 

Chaunai 



Myr. 


Kil 


11 


3 




3 




3 




3 









8 









I 




2 




2 




2 




3 




7 




6 




6 




2 





7 





8 





5 





8 


1 


2 





7 


1 


S 





8 


8 


8 


1 


1 



FIlAli)Cfe.~-ROtJlL'E 73 ORLEANS TO TOURS. 



Myr. Kil. 



Les Maisons Blanches 





8 


RufFee 


1 


2 


Les Negres 

Mansle ... 



1 


6 
1 


Churet 


1 


4 


Angouleme . , 
Roulet 


1 
1 


1 
3 


Petignac 
Barbezieux 




1 


8 
3 


Reignac 
La GrauUe 






7 
7 


La Garde Montlieu . 


1 


4 


Chierzac 





6 


Cavignac 
Cubzac 


1 
1 


S 
6 


Carbon Blanc 


1 





Bordeaux . 


1 


1 



346 E. Miles.— Myr. 56 

The road from Orleans to Tours 
winds along the Loire, in some 
places hanging immediately over 
the river, and seldom receding from 
it more than twenty or thirty yards. 
This beautiful river generally pre- 
sents numerous boats conveying the 
wines of the country. 

St Ay (Loiret), a small village, 
with 1,000 inhabitants, on right 
bank of the Loire. In its vicinity 
are produced the wines of Orleans. 
The Chateau de Loiret was built 
by Lord Bolingbroke, who lived 
here during his exile. The source 
of the Loiret, and the whirlpool in 
the grounds, are worthy of notice. 
St Ay commands a fine view of the 
opposite bank of the Loire. The 
most prominent object is the town 
of Notre Dame de Clery. 

Mehun or Meung (Loiret), has an 
old castle 

Beaugeney (Loiret), on the right 
bank of the Loire, over which is a 
handsome bridge of thirty-nine 
arches, trades in wines and brandy, 
which are held in greater estimation 
than those of Orleans. In the centre 
of the town is a lofty castle, and in 
several places may be seen vestiges 
of the ancient fortifications. 

Mer (Loir et Cher), a little vil- 
lage surrounded with good country 
houses and vineyards. 

Menars (Loir et Cher) has a 
beautiful chateau, which in the 



reign of Louis XV belonged to Mar- 
shal Saxe. It has since been the 
property of Madame de Pompadour, 
afterwards of the Duke of Bellune. 
On approaching Blois the road di- 
vides into two branches, one leading 
to the lower and the other to the 
upper town. From this point there 
is a fine view of the Loire. The 
high road passes along the quay. 

Blois, chief town of Loir et Cher, 
on the Loire, is agreeably situated 
in the midst of fertile pasturages, 
where numerous flocks are fed. It 
is divided into High and Low. The 
streets are narrow and badly built 
in the high town, but well in the 
low. The chateau, now a barrack, 
was embellished by Louis XII, 
Henri HI, and Gaston, Duke of 
Orleans. The tower of Marie de 
Medicis, and the great staircase, 
are objects of curiosity. 

The States- General were assem- 
bled at Blois, by Henry III, in 157.5 
and 1588: it was during the latter 
season that Henri, Duke of Guise, 
and his brother the Cardinal, were 
assassinated. The room in which 
the murder was committed is still 
shown. Louis XII was born at this 
town, in 1661 ; and several princes 
and princesses have died here. 

On the top of a hill near Blois is 
a mound, in the form of a sugar- 
loaf, called La Butte des Capucins. 
It is supposed by some to be a Cel- 
tic monument, and by others to 
have been raised by Gaston of Or- 
leans, to employ the poor during a 
severe winter. , 

Four leagues east of Blois, on the 
left bank of the Loire, is the Chateau 
of Chambord, one of the finest Gothic 
buildings in France. It was origi- 
nally a hunting box of the counts 
of Blois, but Francis I, in 1532, 
commenced a new edifice, from the 
designs of the celebrated Primatic- 
cio : this was continued by Henri 
II, and completed by Louis XIV. 
When Versailles became the seat 
of the court, Chambord ceased to 



396 



ROUTE 74. — TOURS TO BORDEAUX. PART V. 



be visited by the kings of France. 
It was, however, inhabited by Sta- 
nislaus of Poland, and by Marshal 
Saxe, who received it from Louis 
XV, after the battle of Fontenoy. 
It is situated in a park, seven 
leagues in circumference, surround- 
ed by a wall, and traversed by the 
river Cosson. This royal demesne 
now belongs to the Duke de Bor- 
deaux. 

Besides Chambord, there are se- 
veral other remarkable mansions 
in the vicinity of Blois. 

A league beyond Blois commences 
the causeway, or dyke, called the 
Levee, one of the most stupendous 
works of art in the world. It is suffi- 
ciently wide for three carriages, and 
is upwards of 1 50 miles in length. It 
is supposed to have been constructed 
previous to the entrance of the Ro- 
mans into Gaul. It is skirted on 
one side by marshes, and on the 
other by the Loire, the inundations 
of which it restrains. 

The scenery from Blois to Tours 
is exquisite : no language can ade- 
quately describe its beauties. 

Amboise is situated at the con- 
fluence of the Loire and the Masse. 
It is commanded by a castle, which 
was begun by Charles VII, and has 
been the scene of several remark- 
able events. Louis XI instituted 
the Order of St Michael here in 
1469 ; Charles VIII was born here 
the following year, and died here in 
1498. In 1560, the court retired 
here on account of the conspiracy 
against the Guises. The summit, 
which is reached by a curious 
spiral ascent, without steps, com- 
mands a very fine view of the val- 
ley of the Loire from Blois to 
Tours. 

At a little distance from Am- 
boise are the ruins of the Chateau 
of Chanteloup, built by the Duke 
de Choiseul. It is situated in a fine 
park. 

The Chateau of Chenonceau, in 
the east part of tlie department, 



built by Francis I, on a bridge 
across the Cher, daily attracts tra- 
vellers, by the singularity of its 
construction. 

TOURS. 

Hotels de Londres, Faisav. 

Tours, chief town of Indre et 
Loire, is delightfully situated in an 
agreeable and fertile plain, on the 
left bank of the Loire, between that 
river and the Cher, which faUs into 
it some leagues below the town ; 
over the former is a handsome 
bridge, of seventeen arches, 1,335 
feet in length. 

Tours is a place of considerable 
antiquity. In the sixth and seventh 
centuries it was noted for the sanc- 
tity and erudition of its bishops, St 
Gregory, St Gratian, St Lidoire, 
and St Martin. In 1470, 1484, and 
1506, the States-General were aS" 
sembled here. In the 1 5th century, 
Louis XI erected, near its walls, a 
chateau called Plessis les Tours, in 
which he died in 1483. In 1589, 
Henry III transferred the parlia- 
ment and other superior courts to 
this place. 

Amongst the most eminent na- 
tives of Tours were, Amboise the 
minister of Louis XII ; Rapin, and 
the beautiful Gabrielle d'Estrees. 

A considerable number of Eng- 
lish are constantly resident at 
Tours, many with a view to the re- 
establishment of health ; for the 
winter here is as mild as the Eng- 
lish spring, and the air is always 
pure and serene. There is an Eng- 
lish cjub room here, where the 
French and English journals are 
taken in. The principal amuse- 
ments of Tours are the theatre, 
balls, and hunting. 

English Church service QYery Sun- 
day. 

ROUTE 74. 

TOURS TO BORDEAUX. 

Near Savonnieres, two leagues 



I^RANCE ROUTE 74. TOURS TO BORDEAUX. 



397 



and a half from Tburs, and on the j 
road from this town to Chinon, are j 
some curious grottos, called in the 
country caves gouttieres. They pre- 
sent some curious specimens of con- 
gelation. 

Mont Bazon, a market town, with 
an ancient castle. Half a league 
west of it, on the right bank of 
Indre, is the powder factory of Ri- 
pault. 

Sainte Maure is a small town, 
pleasantly situated. 

Three leagues and a half distant 
is Bouchard, in an island of the Vi- 
enne. 

Les Ormes St Martin is remark- 
able for a chateau, which belongs 
to the noble family of Voyer 
d'Argenson. From the centre of 
the building rises a light and ele- 
gant column, about eighty feet in 
height and nine in diameter. The 
staircase and English saloon are 
admired, and the gardens are taste- 
fully laid out. The park extends 
as far as the confluence of the Vi- 
enne with the Creuse. 

Four leagues to the west is the 
town of Richelieu, which manufac- 
tures stuffs and druggets. 
'-' ChateUerault is situated in a fer- 
tile valley, on the right bank of the 
Vienne, which here becomes navi- 
gable. Sully built a handsome 
bridge here, which is approached 
by a promenade. Near the bridge 
is a smaU castle, with four towers. 
ChateUerault is famous for its cut- 
lery, particularly knives. A royal 
manufactory of arms has been esta- 
blished here. 

Four leagues from Chatellerault 
are the mineral sulphureous waters 
of Roche Puzai/, which have long 
been celebrated for the cure of scro- 
fula, rheumatism, internal debihty, 
&c. A quarter of a league from 
the town, at the foot of a small 
mountain, are the three springs ; 
the waters are used as beverage, as 
baths, and as lotions. Near the 
springs are commodious lodging 
houses. 



At Cenon, one league from Cha- 
teUerault, the government estab- 
Hshed, in 1772, several famiUes 
who had taken refuge in France 
after the treaty of 1763, which gave 
up to the English aU the possessions 
of the French in North America, 

Two leagues south of ChateUe- 
rault, at the entrance of the Clain 
into the Vienne, are found ruins of 
very great antiquity, caUed Vieux 
Poitiers. They consist of walls, a 
portico, fragments of columns, 
chapters, &c. 

Here the little river Clain affords 
a picturesque view. 

Poitiers, the chief town of the de- 
partment of Vienne, is situated on 
an eminence. This ancient capital 
of the Pictavi was adorned by the 
Romans with an amphitheatre and 
an aqueduct, vestiges of which may 
be seen near a house caUed the 
Hermitage, a quarter of a league 
towards the south. In the fourth 
century it became an episcopal see ; 
in the eleventh century, Henry 11 
of England laid the foundations of 
the cathedral, which has a beautiful 
choir and a modern screen. In 
1356, the Black Prince took Eang 
John prisoner before the walls of 
Poitiers, and sent him to England 
the foUowing year. During the 
wars with England, Charles VH 
removed the parliament from Paris 
to this place, resided here himself 
for some time, and founded the 
University. In 1569, Admiral Co- 
ligny besieged it, and its ancient 
castle has since been almost entirely 
destroyed. 

The town is irregularly bmlt, 
and the population is not propor- 
tioned to its size, as there is a 
large quantity of arable land and 
garden ground. The ruins of the 
Palais Gahen are scarcely visible ; 
but the form of the ancient amphi- 
theatre, built by the Romans, may 
be traced. The street near it still 
bears the name of Rue des Arenes ; 
the vaults in which the wild beasts 



398 



ROUTE 74. — BORDEAUX. PART V. 



were kept are now private cellars ; 
the entrance to these antiquities 
is through an archwary in the 
Maison Vreux. 

A quarter of a league from Poi- 
tiers maybe seen a Celtic monu- 
ment, called Pierre levee .- it is a 
mass of unhewn stone, of an ir- 
regular oblong shape, about twenty 
feet in length, seventeen in breadth, 
and three in thickness. It for- 
merly rested on five pUlars, three 
feet and a half high, but is now 
supported by only one. A similar 
stone may be seen near the village 
of Bellfaye, on the old road from 
Poitiers to Mirabeau. 

A league from Poitiers, in a 
field called Maupertuis, between 
the abbey of Noaille and the village 
of Beau voir, took place the famous 
battle of Poitiers,, or Maupertuis, 
when, as already stated, King John 
was vanquished and taken prisoner 
by the Black Prince. 

Eight leagues east of Poitiers is 
the market town of Civaux, in the 
environs of which is a large district 
covered with several beds of stone. 
This singularity has occupied the 
attention of several antiquaries in 
vain. 

Jjes Maisons Blanches. — Two 
leagues east of this place is the 
town of Clvray. It is built on the 
Charante, and was formerly forti- 
fied. The ruins of its castle are 
still visible. 

Ruffec, a small town on the 
rivulet Lieu, which abounds with 
trout. The vicinity produces truf- 
fles. 

Not far from Euffec is a chateau 
of the middle age, which formerly 
belonged to the Broglio family. 

Angouleme, chief town of the de- 
partment of LaCharente, is situated 
near the left bank of the river of 
the same name, on the top of a 
mountain surrounded by rocks. 

Angoul6me was besieged in 
1569, by Cohgny, during the civil 
wars in the reign of Charles IX. 



The Duke d'Epernon having taken 
the part of Marie de Medicis, after 
the death of Henry IV, conducted 
her to the castle of this town, of 
which he was governor. 

Poltrot, the assassin of Guise ; 
Ravaillac, the regicide ; Chateau- 
dun, a tragic actor ; the two Mon- 
talemberts, Balzac, and Vivier, 
were natives of this town. 

Barhezieux is a small but well- 
built town, surrounded by a bou- 
levard. Its situation on the high 
road to Bordeaux and Spain pro- 
cures it considerable trade. 

Cubzac is a smaU village on the 
right bank of the Dordogne. 

Cubzac is a kind of storehouse 
for the wines and other southern 
productions sent by the merchants 
of Bordeaux to Paris, and other 
towns in the north. 

Corbon Blanc is a very neat 
village. A league beyond it are 
two chateaux. 

BORDEAUX. 

Invs. Paris, France, Houen. 
Bordeaux, the chief town of the de- 
partment of Gironde, and formerly 
the capital of Guienne, is one of the 
most important places in Prance, 
with a population of 111,000 in- 
habitants. It is situated on the left 
bank of the Garonne, which forms 
in front of the town a crescent, the 
extremities of which are more than 
a league distant. 

Bordeaux has several handsome 
squares and spacious quays, but 
the greater part of the streets are 
narrow and irregular. 

The Bridge over the Garonne 
is one of the most stupendous works 
of the kind ever executed. It was 
commenced in 1811, and completed 
in 1821. It consists of seventeen 
arches of stone, resting on sixteen 
piles and two piers. The whole 
length of the bridge is upwards of 
1,600 feet, and its breadth between 
the parapets fifty feet. The road 



PRANCE. — ROUTE 75. PARIS TO NANTES. 



399 



over it is nearly level, and con- 
nected with it is a new line of road 
to Libourne. 

The Cathedral of St Andre is 
a superb Gothic edifice. The front 
is surmounted by two spires, up- 
wards of 150 feet in height ; they 
were restored in 1810. The entire 
length of the church is about 413 
feet. It is adorned with painted 
windows, pictures, and basso-re- 
hevos. 

The Church of St Michel is also 
in the Gothic style. At the bottom 
of its tower is a vault containing 
sixty-four remains of human 
forms, some of which, though they 
are not embalmed nor enclosed in 
cases, have been preserved more 
than 400 years. They are placed 
round the vault in a gently reclin- 
ing position. 

The Cabinet of NatuTol History 
is situated in the Hotel de 1' Aca- 
demic. It was commenced in 1805. 
It is easily accessible to strangers, 
and is remarkably well arranged. 
The collection of shells and fossils is 
particularly good. 

The Musevm of Antiquities, 
and Gallery of Pictures, occupies 
several rooms in one of the wings 
of the Chateau Eoyal. The en- 
trance to them is in the Kue 
Monbazon. They are opened to 
the public on Sundays and fete 
days. 

The Botanic Garden, and the 
Departmental Nursery, are situated 
near the Cemetery of the Char- 
treuse, and occupy part of the 
ground which formerly belonged 
to this monastery. The garden 
contains a good collection of plants, 
both indigenous and exotic, and is 
open to strangers. 

The only vestiges of Eoman ar- 
chitecture at Bordeaux are some 
arches of an amphitheatre called 
the Palais Gallien. They are 
situated in the Rue du Palais de 
Gallien. 



The commerce of Bordeaux is in 
a flourishing condition, the ocean 
affording it a communication with 
the north of Europe, America, and 
the Indies, while the canal of Lan- 
guedoc enables it to traffic with 
the South and the Mediterranean. 
Its chief trade is in wines, the best 
kinds of which are Medoc, Haut 
Biron, Lafitte, St Emilion, and 
Grave ; has establishments for re- 
fining sugar and casting all kind? 
of iron articles. 

Diligences set out every day 
for Paris, performing the journey 
in sixty hours ; for Bayonne in 
twenty -five hours ; for Nantes in 
forty-four hours ; for Toulouse in 
thirty-six hours ; for Libourne, St 
Poy, and Bergerac ; for Pau, Bar- 
reges, and Bagneres during the 
season from June to October, arrivr 
ing at Pau in thirty-six hours. j ■ 

Steamers to Agen, vice Langon, 
La Eeol Marmande, Tonneins, and 
Thouars every morning at four 
o'clock ; fares — first cabin, 10 frs.; 
second cabin, 7 frs. ; to Nantes six 
times a month, on the 1st, 6th, 11th, 
12th, 16th, 26th, in twenty-six 
hours ; fares — ^first places, with a 
bed, 26 frs. ; without a bed, 20 frs. ; 
second cabin, 15 frs. 

During the summer a steam ves- 
sel goes from Bordeaux to Dublin, 
and vice versa, performing the voy- 
age in about six days. A railroad 
is open to Teste. 

About four leagues from Bor- 
deaux is the Chateau of La Brede, 
noted as having been the residence 
of the illustrious JVIontesquieu. It is 
romantically situated, and is ap- 
proached by a long avenue of oaks. 



ROUTE 75. 

PARIS TO NANTES. 

Distance, forty-two myr. two kil., 
or 264 English miles. 



400 



ROUTE 75. — PARIS TO NANTES. PART V. 



To Tours (page 396) 
Luynes 
Langeais 
Trois Volets 
Chouze 
La Croix Vert (Saumer) 
Les Rosiers 
St Matturin 
Angers 
St Georges 
Champtoce 
Varades 
Ancenis 
La Sailleraye 
Nantes 



Myr. 
23 



Kyi. 
2 

■t 
2 
2 
6 
5 

1 
7 
8 
3 
3 
5 
4 



Luynes is situated on the right 
bank of the Loire. It has manu- 
factories of ribands, silk, velvets, 
and artificial flowers. 

At St Mars la Pile, about two 
leagues beyond Luynes. is a curious 
quadrangular brick tower. 

Langeais, a small town on the 
right bank of the Loire, noted for 
its melons. It has a Gothic castle, 
part of which is occupied by the 
town prison ; in a hall of this build- 
ing, now a stable, the marriage of 
Charles VIII with the Duchess 
Anne, and the Union of Brittany 
with France, were agreed on. 

Chouze trades in fruits, prunes, 
and wine. 

A league and a quarter beyond 
Chouze, and close together, are 
Candes and Montsoreau, on the left 
bank of the Loire. One league from 
the latter is the celebrated Abbey of 
Funtevrault, founded in the 11th 
century, for 150 nuns and eighty 
monks, which once possessed five 
churches. Only one of these re- 
mains, and that has been converted 
into a prison. In the tower of 
Evrault are the tombs of several 
kings and queens of England. 

Three leagues from Cliouze is 
the town of Chinon, situated on 
the right bank of the Vienne. Here 
Charles VII resided during the oc- 
cupation of Paris by the English ; 
and at a little distance from this 
town Eabelais was born, in the 
sixteenth century. Its environs 



produce the plums called Tours 
plums. On entering Cbinon may 
be seen the ruins of the castle in 
which Charles VII resided. The 
room in which Jeanne d'Arc in- 
formed him of the mission she had 
received from heaven is still shown. 
In this castle Henry II of England 
died, in 1189. 

La Croix Verte is a suburb of 
Sauraur, which is on the opposite 
bank of the Loire. Travellers post-^ 
ing, not wishing to stop, need not 
cross the river, but may change 
horses at La Croix Verte. 

SAUMUR. 

Lins. Hotel de Londres ; and Bel- 
videre. 

Saumur is an ancient town, with 
a port, on the left bank of the Loire, 
over which there is a handsome 
bridge. It trades in wine, fruit, 
flax, and manufactures linens and 
leather. Its enamelled articles are 
noted. Madame Dacier was a native 
of Saumur. 

About two leagues from Saumur, 
and on the same side of the Loire, is 
Tuffeau, so called from its quarries 
of sandstone (tufieau) ; and a quar- 
ter of a league south of Tuffeau is a 
Roman camp, called the Camp of 
Chenehutte. 

La Levee (the Causeway), which 
extends from Blois as far as the 
Dagueniere, a space of forty leagues, 
preserving the coimtry from the 
swellings of the river, was originally 
but a series of insignificant dykes, 
which have been from time to time 
improved, particularly by Louis le 
Debonnaire, and Henry II of Eng- 
land. 

Angers is situated on the May- 
enne, a little below the place where 
this river receives the Loire and 
the Sarte, in a country extremely 
fertile in corn, vines, and fruits. It 
is a large, ancient, and a handsome 
city, where Pitt received instruc- 



TKANCE. — ROUTE 75. PARIS TO NANTES. 



401 



tions ; there is a museum, a garden 
of plants, a cabinet of natural 
history, and two theatres. 

The environs of Angers are in- 
teresting. The Pont de Ce, over 
the Loire, attributed to Caesar, con- 
sists of a succession of bridges and 
causeways, which commence about 
a league and a quarter from An- 
gers, and cross various islands and 
arms of the Loire. To the west of 
this bridge is the Camp of Caesar, 
at the confluence of the Loire and 
the Maine. The town of Pont de 
Ce is celebrated for the defeat of 
the forces of the mother of Louis 
Xin by Marshal Crequi, in 1620, 
and for a battle between the Repub- 
licans and the Vendeans. 

About four leagues beyond An- 
gers is the Chateau of Serans, a 
Gothic edifice, with very beautiful 
gardens. 

St Georges is a neat market 
town, with an ancient abbey, on 
the Loire. Opposite to it is the 
town of Chalonnes, which has the 
ruins of a bridge and a castle, as 
well as manufactories of serges, 
druggets, and hankerchiefs. 

Champtoce is situated on the 
Loire. In front of it is the town of 
Mont Jean, which has coal-mines 
connected with the celebrated pits 
of Montrelais on the other side of 
the Loire. 

Varades is situated on the right 
bank of the Loire. A quarter of a 
league distant is the hOl of La 
Madelaine, with the ruins of a 
castle. 

On a steep hill opposite to Va- 
rades is the town of St Florent le 
Vieil, which was ravaged both by 
the Vendeans and the Republicans. 
It its church is the tomb of the 
Marquis de Bonchamp, who died at 
the passage of the Loire. The hill 
eaUed Le CavaUer commands a fine 
view <Jfthe course of the river. 

Aneenis is a neat town on the 
right bank of the Loire. The an- 
cient castle of the dukes of Be- 



thune, whence there is a fine view, 
was formerly strongly fortified. 

Oudon is remarkable for an 
octagon tower, erected in 840. 

NANTES. 

Hotels. France, Comnwrce, Sfc. 

Nanfes is situated on the right 
bank of the Loire, at the confluence 
of the Erdre and the Sevre. It is 
one of the richest and most com- 
mercial towns in France. The 
streets and places are adorned with 
handsome buildings. The harbour 
is the most frequented in the king- 
dom. ;• 

The cathedral is a lofty but ua- • 
finished building. The doors are 
ornamented with numerous stone 
figures, executed in 1434, but now 
sadly mutilated. It contains the 
tomb of Francis 11, Duke of Brit- 
tany ; and it is adorned with recum- 
bent statues of Francis and his se- 
cond wife, allegorical statues of the 
cardinal virtues, and several basso- 
relievos. 

Near the cathedral stands the 
episcopal palace, and at a little dis- 
tance is the prefect's hotel, a hand- 
some building ; the vestibule, the 
grand staircase, and the haU, are 
worthy of notice. 

The Hotel de Ville, in the same 
quarter, is a modern edifice, ex- 
tending round three sides of a court, 
the fourth opening towards the 
street by an arch. It is of the 
Corinthian order, and contains seve- 
ral pictures. At the bottom of the 
staircase are some stones with Ro- 
man inscriptions, built in the waU. 
Near the Hotel de Vflle is a small 
museum of natural history. 

The castle, a fortress built by 
Alain, Duke of Brittany, at the end 
of the Cours St Pierre, is large and 
in good preservation. The different 
quarters of the town are connected 
by twelve bridges. 

From the quay there is a fine 
view of the Loire, which is covered 



402 



ROUTE 76. — DINAlf. KENNES. PARTY. 



with vessels of every description, 
and interspersed with numerous 
small islands. On its banks are 
several public promenades. The 
scenery around is extensive and 
picturesque. 

It was at Nantes that Henry IV 
promulgated the famous edict in 
favour of the Protestants, the repeal 
of wliich, by Louis XIV, was so 
detrimental to the commerce and 
population of France. Eew towns 
suffered more than this in the Re- 
volution ; in 1793 it was attacked 
by 80,000 Vendeans, who were re- 
pulsed with great loss ; and during 
the whole of this period it was the 
theatre of the most horrible tra- 
gedies. 

Nantes was the birthplace of Anne 
of Brittany, Queen of France. 

Diligences to Paris, Rennes, Bor- 
deaux, Machecoul, Paimboeuf, les 
Sables, Bourbon, Vendee, Ancenis, 
and Angers, every day. 

Steam-boats to Bordeaux every 
week, sometimes twice, in fourteen 
hours, fare 20 fr. : to Orleans by the 
new company's boats in twenty-four 
hours, stopping to sleep at Tours ; 
the old company's boats take three 
days. Angers the first, to Tours the 
second, Orleans the third day. 

Provisions are cheap at Nantes, 
and at the large towns in France ; 
this is, perhaps, the best for persons 
who wish to economise. The mar- 
kets are weU supphed with salt 
and fresh- water fish, good poultry, 
beef, mutton, fruit, and vegetables. 
Lodgings are also conamodious, and 
reasonable in price. 

An Enghsh clergyman resides at 
Nantes, and performs divine service 
every Sunday. 



ST MALO 



ROUTE 76. 

TO NANTES BY 
THROUGH DDL. 



RENNES, 



To Dol 

Combourg 

D'Hede 

Rennes 



Myr. Kil. 

2 8 



The road by Chateauneuf is only 
seven myr. one kil. ; from Dinan to 
Rennes, five myr. three kil. ; from 
Rennes to Nantes, ten myr. seven 
kil 



To Bout-de-land 
Roudun 
La Breharaye 
Derval 
Nozay 

Bout de Bois 
Gesvres 
Nantes 



Myr. Kil. 
1 6 



DINAIf. 



118J English miles. 



Hotels. Poste and Commerce. 

Dinan is a small town, in the de- 
partment of Rle et Vilaine, on the 
Ranee, the mouth of which forms the 
road of St Malo. An extensive trade 
is carried on in butter, cider, beer, 
hemp, wax, tallow, honey, skins, 
cattle, and horses. There are also 
two salt-works, and manufactories 
of linen, flannel, cotton, shoes, and 
hats. The canal of Rle et Ranee 
passes the town, and forms a con- 
tinuation of the navigation of the 
Vilaine. The principal objects 
worthy of notice are the churcli, 
containing the heart of the Con- 
stable Duguesclin ; the great hos- 
pital, the ancient waUs, the tower 
of St Vincent. 

Provisions and lodgings are cheap, 
and there are several Enghsh fami- 
nes residing here. 

The environs of Dinan abound 
with beautiful walks and rides. 

RENNES. 

Hotels. Europe, France. 

Rennes, the capital of Rle and 

Vilaine, and formerly the chief 

town of La Bretagne, is situated in 

1 a vast plain at the confluence of the 



FBANCE. — ROUTE 77. PARIS TO LYONS. 



403 



Die and the Vilaine. It is a large 
and handsome town. 

The chief objects worthy of notice 
are the Place Royale, in which for- 
merly stood an equestrian statue of 
Louis XV ; the Town house, con- 
taining the public library, and a 
collection of paintings ; the Palais de 
Justice, in which are ceilings by 
Jouvenet ; the ancient Abbey of St 
George's, the front of the church of 
St Pierre, the Place d'Armes, the 
arsenal, the theatre, and the pro- 
menades, particularly those of Ta- 
bor and Mail. In one of the town 
gates, called Porte Mordelaise, is an 
ancient stone with an inscription. 

The butter made at Prevalaye, a 
league from Rennes, is not equalled 
by any in Prance, except that 
which comes from the vaUey of 
Campon on the Adour, one league 
from Bagneres. The manufactures 
of Rennes are blankets, coarse cot- 
ton cloths, linen, sail-cloths, caUed 
toiles royaies, coloured linens, thread, 
china, knit gloves, stockings, and 
leather. It has manufactories for 
cotton-spinning and dye-houses. 
Thread and cider are the principal 
articles of its trade. 

Several celebrated men were na- 
tives of Rennes. 

Diligences to Brest, Caen, Paris, 
Dinan, St Malo, and Nantes, &c. 

ROUTE 77. 

PARIS TO LYONS BY CHALONS SUR 
SAONE. 

Distance, forty-seven myr. five kil,, 
or 290 English miles. 

The mail in thirty-four hours, 
four places, 84 fr., leaves Paris at 
six in the evening, arrives at Sens 
at two in the morning. Auxerre at 
five, stops half an hour, Chalons at 
six in the evening, arrives at Lyons 
in time the next morning to take 
the steamer for Avignon. 

The diligence takes thirty-six 
hours to Chalons, and sixty to 
Lyons. 



Myr, Xii. 



To Charenton 





7 


Villeneuve St Georg 


2*8 1 


1 


Lieusaint 




3 


Melun 




3 


Le Chatelet . 




1 


Panfou 




8 


Fessard 




4 


Villeneuve la Guiarc 







Pont sur Yonne 




2 


Sens . 




2 


Villeneuve le Roi 




4 


Villevallier . 




8 


Joigny 




9 


Basson 




2 


Auxerre 




5 


Saint Bris 







Vermenton . 




3 


Lucy le Bois 




9 


Avallon 




9 


La Roche en Berny 




6 


Saulieu 




3 


Pierre Ecrite 







Chissey 




1 


Antun 







Saint Emiland 




7 


Saint Leger . 




4 


Bourgneuf 




8 


Chalons sur Saone 




2 


Sennecey 




8 


Tournus 







Saint Albin . 




6 


Macon 




4 


Villefranche 




8 


Limonet 




8 


Lyons 




1 



Charenton is situated on the right 
bank of the Marne, near its conflu- 
ence with the Seine. Near to this 
place is the veterinary school of 
Alfort, founded by Louis XIV. 

Villeneuve St George, near the 
Seine. 

Melun is situated on the Seine, 
which divides it into three parts. 
In the island which the Seine forms 
are vestiges of a palace where 
Queen Blanche, the mother of St 
Louis, resided, and in which Robert 
and Philip I died. 

The English took Melun by fa- 
mine in 1419; and, after having 
kept it ten years, were driven out 
by the inhabitants. It was the 
birth-place of Amyot, the trans- 
lator of Plutarch, and here Abelard 
taught philosophy. 

The Ca?ml of Loing, which is a 
continuation of that of Briare, en- 
ters this department. 



404 



I'RANCE. — ROUTE 77. PARIS TO LYONS. 



One league N. E. of Melun is the 
chateau of Praslin, formerly Vaux, 
noted for the magnificence of the 
building, the extent of the park, and 
the beauty of the gardens. 

Pont stir Yonne derives its name 
from a long bridge over that river 
at the end of the town. 

Sens is an ancient town, enclosed 
by antique ramparts and Koman 
foundations, and situated at the 
confluence of the Yonne and Vanne. 

Amongst objects worthy of atten- 
tion are the beautiful gates at each 
end of the town, and the chapel of 
St Savinien, with its ancient painted 
windows. 

Sens was the natal place of Loy- 
seau, and is famous for a council 
held there, at which Saint Bernard 
condemned the doctrine of Abelard. 

Villeneuve le Roi bears consider- 
able resemblance to Sens ; the road 
crosses it by a broad straight street, 
terminated at each end by a gate. 
In the centre is a church. The 
town is surrounded by walks. 

Joigny is pleasantly situated on 
the right bank of the Yonne, in the 
form of an amphitheatre : it has a 
harbour. The town and its envi- 
rons produce annually 35,000 hogs- 
heads of wines, which are much 
admired, and are said to be admi- 
rably calculated for persons afflicted 
with the gout, and to mix weU with 
aU other sorts of wine. The bridge 
and the quay along the Yonne have 
a handsome appearance. The cha- 
teau above the town is an elegant 
building, erected by Cardinal Gondi. 

Auxerre is advantageously situ- 
ated on the left bank of that river, 
and is surrounded by vineyards, 
which produce good wines ; the air 
is considered very pure. It is 
remarkable for its three Gothic 
churches. St Pierre, a strange mix- 
ture of modern and Gothic archi- 
tecture, ornamented with a tower ; 
the abbey of St Germain, a very 
old building, famous for its crypts ; 
and the cathedral, remarkable for 



the size and height of the nave, the 
painted windows, and the tomb of 
Amyot, translator of Plutarch. 

Auxerre has a considerable trade 
in wood and in wines, known at 
Paris under the name of Vins 
d'Auxerre, or Basse Bourgogne. 
The Yonne is navigable as far as 
Cravant, a small town situated four 
leagues higher up the river. 

Four leagues from Auxerre is 
Chablis, so famous for its white 
wines, which, in order to be good,- 
should be kept two years in cask 
and one in bottle. 

Vermanton, at the foot of some 
hills on the banks of the Cure, trades 
in exceUent wines and timber. 

Two leagues south of this place, 
on the Cure, are the celebrated 
Grottos of Arcy : they form a suite 
of immense haUs, narrow passages, 
cabinets, and gaUeries. The sta- 
lactites, composed of petrifactions, 
present the most variegated and 
romantic forms. These petrifac- 
tions have the beauty of marble 
and the hardness of stone, and do 
not lose these qualities on being 
exposed to the air. 

Lucy le Bois. This viUage seems 
to be placed as the boundary be- 
tween the barren land which the 
traveUer has passed, and the fertile 
soil which appears on approaching 
AvaUon. 

Avallon is pleasantly situated on 
the right bank of the Cousin, with 
broad streets, bordered by well-built 
houses. AvaUon was formerly a 
fortress, and sustained, during the 
reign of King Robert, a long siege, 
when the inhabitants made a brave 
and successful defence. The envi- 
rons are picturesque. At this place 
commences the Morvan, a country 
famous for the wood it furnishes to 
the capital, for its numerous cattle, 
and for the uncivilized and coarse 
manners of its inhabitants. 

Saulleu, situated in a fertile coun- 
try, where there is an abundance of 
corn and cattle. The ponds in its 



FEANCE, — ROUTE 77. CHALONS SUR SAONE. 



405 



environs furnish excellent fish, par- 
ticularly trout. Saulieu "was taken 
and retaken sereral times by the 
English, the French, and the Hu- 
guenots. 

Au(u7), an ancient town, situated 
on the left bank of the Arroux, at 
the foot of three mountains called 
Montjeu, Montdru, and Mont Cenis. 
It contains many vestiges of anti- 
quity. 

The gate of Arroux is a monu- 
ment weU worthy of attention: it 
consists of two great arches for the 
entrance and egress of carriages, 
and two smaller ones for foot pas- 
sengers ; a magnificent entablature 
surmounts them, and above ranges a 
kind of gaUery, formerly composed 
of ten arches, but only seven of 
"vrhich remain. The Corinthian pi- 
lasters which separate the arches 
are fluted with great skill. 

The gate of St Andre, at a short 
distance on the right, is almost as 
well preserved, and is similar to it, 
except that the chapiters of the 
pilasters are of the Ionic order. 
It is astonishing how waUs, only 
eighteen inches thick, and built 
without cement, should have stood 
so many centuries A tower, sup- 
posed to have belonged to a temple 
of Minerva, and bearing that name, 
has been incorporated with the 
Abbey of St Andoche. 

A quarter of a league east of the 
town, in the middle of the Eield of 
Urns, so called from the number 
of ancient urns found there, is the 
monument called Pierre de Couars ; 
it is a mass of unhewn stones, 
rconnected together by a whitish 
cement : its form is pyramidal, and 
its height above sixty feet. 

A part of Autun bears the name 
of Marchaux, derived from Cam- 
pus Martis, and two of the moun- 
tains on which the town is situated, 
Montjeu and Montdru, derive their 
names from Mons Jovis and Mons 
Druidum. 



CHALONS SUR SAONE. 

Hotel du Pare. 

Ch'ilons sur Saone is pleasantly 
situated in a fertile coimtry, sur- 
rounded by meadows, vineyards, 
and forests. This town has become 
an important commercial place since 
the Revolution, and is now the de- 
pot of the north and south of France, 
particularly of Paris and Marseilles, 
for corn, wines, leather, oil, and soap. 

At Chalons is prepared, from the 
scales of the bleak, caught there 
in great abundance, the essence 
d'Orient, used for making false 
pearls. There are three prome- 
nades, one behind the hospital, on 
the east arm of the Saone ; another 
forms a terrace on the principal 
arm and right bank of the river ; 
the third extends along the canal, 
and terminates in a place adorned 
with an obelisk. From the two 
former, when the atmosphere is 
clear, the summit of the Alps, 
though fifty leagues distant, may 
be distinguished. Between Chalons 
and the Alps is the Chain of Mont 
Jura. 

Chalons is very ancient, having 
been mentioned by Caesar imder the 
name of GabiUonum. It was en- 
tirely ruined by AttUa in the sixth 
century ; and, a short time after, it 
was subdued by the Bourguignons, 
and became the residence of their 
first king. 

About half a league from Chalons 
is the abbey of St Marcel, where 
Abelard died in 1142. 

The Canal du Centre, which 
unites the Saone and the Loire, 
commences at Chalons, and is one 
cause of its prosperity. This canal, 
which croses the department of 
Saone et Loire for a space of twenty- 
four leagues, was commenced in 
1783, and finished in 1792. It has 
been called Canal du Centre, be- 
cause it establishes, by means of the 
Canal of Briare, an interior com- 
munication between the two seas in 



406 



KOUTE 78. — CHALONS TO LYONS. PAKT V. 



that part of France, which is con- 
sidered as central. 

Steamers from Chalons to Lyons, 
corresponding with those direct to 
Avignon and Marseilles, every 
morning (unless impeded by want 
of water) at six o'clock, arriving 
about two in the afternoon ; fares : 
first places, 8 frs. ; second places, 6 
frs.; carriages, four wheels, 80 frs. ; 
ditto, two wheels, 60 frs. ; horses, 20 
frs. The distance by water to 
Lyons is ninety-eight English miles. 

ROUTE 78. 

CHALONS SUR SAONE TO LYONS, 
BY WATER. 

This route is pleasanter than that 
by land, and the traveller will find 
in the steamer very good accom- 
modation. 

On quitting Chalons, to the left 
of the Saone, we enter the territory 
of the ancient Segusiani, pass be- 
fore the mouth of the Canal du 
Centre, and enter a canal cut across 
the land to save the boats a long 
circuit. The Saone receives the 
Grone on the right ; at Tournus the 
boat passes beneath a bridge, a lit- 
tle beyond which the river becomes 
wider ; pass on to Ma9on, from 
which town to Lyons the right 
bank of the river presents a deHght- 
ful prospect. The island above the 
bridge of Ma9on forms an enchant- 
ing picture. The Saone rises in 
the Vosges, and is only navigable 
from Auxonne. St JRomain, beyond 
which is Beauregard, noted for its 
forges ; Riotier, a small village with 
several inns. Here the head-dress 
of the females changes to the Lyon- 
nese mode. Leave on the left the 
small town of Trevoux, pleasantly 
situated on the brow of a hill ; on 
the top of an eminence are seen the 
ruins of the ancient fort, and on the 
banks of the river appears the hos- 
pital, with two fine avenues. After 
passing Trevoux many pretty villas 



present themselves ; the right bank 
gradually improves, and the river 
forms several bends. Near Neuvilh 
there are generally several flotillas, 
laden with wine, &c., and drawn by 
fourteen or sixteen horses. On the 
right, at a Uttle distance from the 
river, are the quarries which supply 
the Lyonnese with building-stones, 
and afford employment to the 
neighbouring peasantry. The Saone 
then becomes narrower, and dis- 
plays the villas, which present a 
delightful prospect as far as Lyons. 
On the right is La Freta, a pretty 
country-seat on the brow of a hill, 
in front of the village of Roche- 
Taillee. Eurther on is a domain 
called Roi, opposite to a little isle 
called de Roi. The heights which 
border the Saone in this part 
are called Croix- Rotisse. Lyons 
page 407. 

CHALONS TO LYONS, POST ROAD. 

Tournus is pleasantly situated on 
the Saone, on which is a quay and 
a wooden bridge. It has beautiful 
promenades. The painter Greuse 
was born at this place. 

Saint Albin is remarkable for the 
pretty costume of the village lasses, 
who wear small round hats, care- 
lessly placed over one ear. Almost 
opposite to this village is the small 
town of Pont de Vaux, the birth- 
place of General Joubert. 

The country from Chalons to 
Ma9on, along the right bank of the 
Seine, and at some leagues to the 
right of the chain of mountains of 
Charolais, is considered one of the 
richest and most beautiful in France. 

Magon is seated on the declivity 
of a hill on the right bank of the 
Saone. Since the demoUtion of its 
ramparts, it has been surrounded 
by promenades, which overlook the 
surrounding country. A part of 
the chain of the Alps may be seen 
from any situation on the quay. 

Magoij carries on a great trade 
in wine, particularly what is called 



FKANCE.^ROUTE 78. CHALONS TO LYONS. 



407 



Cotignac de Ma9on. It was several 
times ravaged by the barbarians 
under Attila, and in the wars of 
religion, when the conqueror made 
it the theatre of dreadful punish- 
ments invented by fanaticism under 
the name of sauternes. 

The dress of the women of Ma9on, 
and its vicinity, is pretty, but some- 
what singular : it consists of a blue 
cloth petticoat with a deep red 
border ; a jacket of the same ; and 
a small hat worn on one side of the 
head, so as to display a neat white 
cap. 

Romaneche, four leagues south of 
Ma9on, produces the celebrated 
wines of Moulin-a-Vent, which are 
grown in the hamlet of Torins. 

Cluny, on the Grone, four leagues 
from Ma9on, is celebrated for an 
ancient Benedictine abbey, on which 
more than 2,000 monasteries were 
dependent. 

Villefranche is a neat town seated 
on the Morgon, and near the Saone. 
It was founded towards the close 
of the eleventh centiiry by Humbert 
n, Lord of Beaujolais, who, 
amongst other privileges granted 
to the town, in order to induce per- 
sons to settle there, allowed hus- 
bands to beat their wives with im- 
punity, provided that death did 
not ensue. The women are consi- 
dered to be beautiful in conse- 
quence ! 

The league between Anse and 
Villefranche is, according to the 
proverb, the most beautiful league 
in the world. Beyond Anse the 
vineyards and hills are tastefully 
sprinkled with pleasure houses, 
some of them nearer together than 
others, forming the pretty village 
of Lucenay, in the centre of which 
is a chateau. On the other side of 
the Saone, which runs half a league 
from Anse, rises in the form of an 
amphitheatre, on the declivity of a 
hill, crowned by the wrecks of the 
Gothic chateau Trevoux. 

Beyond the Echelles, the traveller 



passes Mont d'Or,thetop of which, 
covered with wood, supports flocks 
of goats, and produces the cheeses 
known at Lyons under the name of 
Fromages du Mont d'Or, which 
must not be confounded with those 
of the same name in Au verge. This 
mountain furnishes fine freestone, i 

An almost continued descent 
leads from Limonest to Lyons, 
across the vineyards, groves, or- 
chards, and villas, which ornament 
the banks of the Saone, in the en- 
virons of this town. On the left 
the traveller passes the romantic 
vaUey of Rochecardon, which was 
the residence of Eousseau. The 
wood and fountain of Roset formed 
the particular pleasures of Eous- 
seau : the ascent to them is by a 
steep path irregularly cut in the 
rock. The name of the philoso- 
pher is inscribed on a stone, in the 
midst of many others. A syca- 
more tree bears his well-known 
epigraph, " Vitam impendere vero." 

Travellers who visit this spot 
wiU be amply repaid for their 
trouble ; the fine prospects of both 
banks of the Saone, the island of 
Barbe, and the numerous villas 
which attract the eye, wiU afford 
no small degree of enjoyment. 

LYONS. 

Hotels, Europe, Pare, and Am- 
bassadeurs. 

Lyons is one of the most consi- 
derable towns in France, but the 
houses have a heavy appearance, 
being very high. The streets are 
narrow, and badly paved. 

The Hotel de ViUe is a noble 
edifice. It contains an antique 
taurobole in good preservation; 
and under the vestibule, the table 
of bronze, on which is engraven the 
harangue delivered by the Emperor 
Claudius to the Roman Senate^ in 
favour of the city of Lyons. ' 

The Great Hospital is the finest 
building in Lyons ; it presents an 



408 



ROUTE 78. — LYONS. PART V. 



immense front of the Ionic order, 
along the quay of the Khone. 

The cathedral was constructed at 
various periods, but principally 
during the reigns of Philip Au- 
gustus and Louis XI. Its famous 
clock was made by Lippius of Bale, 
in 1598, and is a work of astonish- 
ing intricacy. It shows the course 
of the sun, the phases of the moon, 
the years, months, days, hours, mi- 
nutes, and seconds, and the Saints' 
days ; above the clock are small 
figures that move with the chimes, 
which play every hour, and over 
them is a cock which tells the hours 
by clapping his wings and crow- 
ing. 

In the church of St Paul, the 
grand altar-piece is by Le Brun ; 
the church of the ci-devant Feuil- 
lans, where are the ashes of Cinq 
Mars and Thou, executed by or- 
der of Eichelieu, in the Place de 
Terreaux. In the Church d'Ainy, 
may be seen the mosaic found in 
1806. 

The traveller should visit the 
ruins of an ancient aqueduct, called 
the Grotte Bazelk; the silk mills, 
where the motion of an immense 
number of bobbins and shuttles re- 
sembles the noise of a cataract. 

Pierre Encise, formerly a state 
prison, was surmounted by a large 
round tower, which had a striking 
appearance. It was ascended by 
120 steps cut in a rock, which has 
lately disappeared. On a clear day 
Mont Blanc may be seen from the 
heights of Pburvieres, where a tower 
has been erected, to ascend which 
one franc is charged ; it is difficult 
of access, but the traveller is amply 
repaid by the view. This mountain 
bears evident marks of the great 
fire mentioned by Seneca, which 
took place in the reign of Nero, 
such as the remains of aqueducts 
near the church St Irenee, a mosaic 
in the house Cassere, some remains 
of a theatre within the walls of the 
Minimes, subterranean reservoirs 



at the Ursulines, and the house of 

; antiquities built on the ruins of a 
palace belonging to the Eoman em- 
perors. 

Lyons has two theatres ; the 
Great Theatre and the Theatre des 
Celestins, and a circus. 

I Lyons is a very important com- 
mercial and manufacturing town, 
and was still more so before it had 
sustained the siege and bombard- 
ment of 1793. The Saone, the 
Rhone, and the Loire afford the 
greatest facihty for the conveyance 

j of its merchandise. 

The environs of Lyons form a 

I complete contrast to the sombre 
interior of the town. The Etroits, 
a footpath which runs between the 
Saone and the hiU from Lyons to 

I the bridge of Mulotiere, is a charm- 
ing promenade, adorned with a 
grotto, from the top of which 
springs a fountain. 

I In the vicinity of Eculii, a village 

I about three quarters of a league 
from the suburb of Vaize, is found 
an earth used in making china. 
In the same village is a petrifying 
fountain. A league and a half along 
the Saone is another petrifying 
fountain, in a cavern called Fon- 
taine. 

Lyons is situated about 25 leagues 
south-west of Geneva, 66 north- 
west from Marseilles, and 40 south 
of Dijon. 

A Railroad from Lyons to St 
Etienne, corresponding with Ro- 
anne, Montbrison, &c. 

Diligences to Paris in 60 hours; 
to Turin by Chambery in 40 hours ; 
to Geneva in 22 hours ; St Marseilles 
in 48 hours. 

Malie Post to Strasbourg in 36 
hours, fare 82 frs ; to Paris in 34 
hours, fare 84 frs. 35 cents. ' 

Steam -boats ascend the Rhone to 
Aix-les-Bains every morning except 
Sunday, at seven in the morning, 
in 21 hours: fares, first cabin, 12 frs.; 
second places, 8 frs. ; carriages, four 
wheels, 45 frs. 



FRANCE — ROrXE 97, LTOXS TO ATIGXOX AND SIARSEILLES. 409 



Steam-boats to Marseilles leave 
Lyons at four and five every morn- 
ing, touching at Vienne, Valence, 
Avignon, and Aries. Time occu- 
pied to Aries, from 12 to 15 hours ; 
from Aries to Marseilles in 18 to 
24 hours, according to the state of 
the river ; fares to Marseilles, 25 
frs. best places ; second places, 21 
frs.; carriages, four wheels, 80 to 
120 frs. A party of four, with 
their own carriage, would find it 
more comfortable and quite as 
cheap to post from Lyons to Mar- 
seilles. Distance, 33 myr. 3 kil., or 
208 English miles.. 

It is, however, advisable to leave 
the steamer either at Avignon or 
Aries; from both places diligences 
run every day. Distance from Avig- 
non ten myr. five kil., or about 
seventy EngHsh miles. Fare from 
Lyons to Avignon, first, 20 francs ; 
second, 15 francs. 

EOUTE 79. 

LYONS TO AVIGNON AND 3IAR- 
SEILLES, BY THE RHONE. 

The traveller leaves Lyons from 
the Quai de la Saone; he is then 
pear the Travaux Perraches, and 
basses under a bridge, which also 
nears the name of him who under- 
took these works. Several viUas 
are seen. On the right is La Mu- 
iotiere ; after passing the peninsula 
the traveller is on the Rhone ; fur- 
ther on is the chateau of OulUns, 
situated on a wooded hill ; above 
appears St Genis; further on, the 
glasshouse of Pierre Benite ; the 
JBrotteaux extend as far as this spot. 
The ruins of the chateau of Cha- 
ponnot are now on the banks of the 
Rhone, which twenty years ago 
flowed at a quarter of a league from 
them. 

Li front of Wgny, noted for its 
red wines, is the Maison Vequelin, 
resembling a chateau ; at this part 
men called orpaUleurs wash the 



sand for gold dust. Givors, sl large 
market town. The houses are built 
round the bend formed by the 
Rhone, and have a very picturesque 
appearance. At Givors is a canal 
suppHed by the river Gier, which 
descends from Mont PUa ; a little 
further is the village of Loire ; the 
Rhone is crowded with islands. At 
St Colomb, facing Yienne, there is 
a cavern in which several Roman 
antiquities have been discovered. 

Vienne. — Quitting Yienne, on the 
right bank St Colombe, and on the 
left the public baths, and soon reach 
the celebrated vineyard of Cote 
Rotie. At a distance is perceived 
the Uttle town of Auberive and Le 
Peage de RousHlou ; Mont Pila ap- 
pears in front for a considerable 
time. Further on is Ampuls, and 
to the right, on this side of Con- 
drieux, is the chateau of Cordelon. 
The banks of the Rhone produce the 
celebrated wines of Cote Rotie, Am- 
puls, and Condrieux. The country 
abounds with granite and quartz. 

Beyond Condrieux, and a league 
to the left, is the town of St Yallier; 
pass a large flat rock, called the 
Table du Roi, and soon arrive at 
Tournon, In front is Mont Yen- 
toux, the summit of which forms 
two peaks ; beyond, on the left 
bank, is the Rock of Glun, a cha- 
teau built on a picturesque rock, 
bathed by the river ; stiU further, 
facing a small island, is the mouth 
of the Isere (Isara). After having 
passed the confluence of the Isere, 
we enter on the territory of the Se- 
gusiani ; the hills are covered with 
vineyards, the plains with mulberry 
trees, and the climate announces 
the influence of the south. 

After leaving Yalence we pass 
on the right St Peray, famous for 
its wine, and Chateauneuf, pic- 
turesquely situated ; in front is 
Mont Chavate ; on the right bank 
we leave the town of Youlte, where 
the stream is very rapid, and forms 
a bend : further on we reach the 



410 



ROUTE 79. — ^AVIGNON. PART V. 



mouth of the Drome, and, after 
crossing several rapid currents, ar- 
rive at Anconne. 

Here the Rhone makes a hend, 
and the bank presents an amphi- 
theatre. The old bed of the Rhone, 
covered with pebbles, is stOl visible; 
it takes a westerly direction. On 
doubhng the point of Anconne, we 
perceive in front the three curious 
lava rocks, which are on the right 
bank of the Rhone, a quarter of a 
league from the market town of 
Rochemaure. On the same bank, 
and at the foot of the mountain, is 
the vUlage of Teil, beyond which is 
a neat chateau at the base of a 
basaltic rock. We then arrive at 
the ancient town of Viviers, beyond 
which the boat passes a spot where 
the river is much agitated by pass- 
ing over rocks. We afterwards 
proceed to Pont St Esprit. The 
Rhone is here extremely rapid, and 
the currents which form in front of 
the arches impel the boats with 
great force. Beyond Pont St Esprit 
we have on the right Languedoc, 
and on the left Tricastin : both 
banks are calcareous. 

To Chateau-Doria, and thence to 
Avignon. 

AVIGNON. 

Hotel de I'Europe. 

Avignon is a large, handsome, and 
well-built town, on the left bank of 
the Rhone. 

The cathedral is worth seeing. 
The ivory crucifix in the church of 
Misericorde, the Hotel deslnvalides, 
the barracks, formerly the mint, 
the museum, the library, the garden 
of plants, the ancient palace of the 
vice-legate, the theatre, erected in 
1825, the bridge over the Rhone, 
and the promenades on the ram- 
parts. 

A few miles from Avignon is the 
celebrated fountain of Vaucluse, 
which rises in a cavern at the foot 
of a mountain, near the hamlet of 



Vaucluse. The spring forms the 
source of the river Sorgue. 

After great rains, it rises above 
a sort of mole, which is before the 
cave, and forms a basin, the surface 
of which is as smooth as glass ; it 
is afterwards precipitated, with a 
frightful noise, over the fragments 
of the rocks, whitening them with 
its foam, and appearing as if wishing 
to escape to a place where, no longer 
meeting with opposition, it may 
pursue its peaceful course. 

The water of this fountain is- 
pure, and clear as crystal, but is not 
good to drink, because it is crude 
and indigestible ; but it is much 
used by tanners and dyers. 

On the rock above the fountain 
are some ruins, called Petrarch's 
Chateau. The side of the ancient 
chateau is now occupied by a paper 
mill, and the Sorgue gives motion 
to several mills. 

The Cours is much frequented as 
a promenade. The wind sometimes 
blows with so much violence as to 
be insupportable to persons unac- 
customed to it. Coteau Brule, near 
Avignon, produces a good wine, 

Aix, an ancient and neat town, 
situated in a plain, near the little 
river Arc, is not large, but popu- 
lous ; the streets are regular and 
weU paved, though narrow and 
dirty. In the centre is the Orbitlele, 
formed by three avenues of ehn 
trees, and decorated with fountains : 
it is a charming promenade. 

Aix has no fortifications, and is 
surrounded by a single wall. liC 
one of its suburbs, in the higher 
part of the town, are the celebrated 
mineral waters from which this 
town has derived its name ; and 
here likewise are hot baths. The 
best situation for the invalid who 
wishes to take advantage of them 
is on the Course, which is the plea- 
santest part of the town. 

Le Grand Pin. — Between this 
place and Marseilles, but nearer to 
the latter, there is a beautiful pros- 



FRANCE. ROUTE 79. MARSEILLES. 



411 



pect, embracing the Mediterranean, 
the city of Marseilles, and its envi- 
rons. 

MARSEILLES. 

Hotels, d' Orient, and Richelieu, 

Marseilles, the chief place of the 
department of Bouches du Rhone, 
is an ancient, large, and strong 
town situated on the Mediterranean, 
with a population of 170,000 inha- 
bitants. It is one of the most com- 
mercial towns in the west. Louis 
XVI deprived it of most of the 
privileges it had enjoyed tiU his 
reign, and built a citadel there. In 
1710 and 1721 Marseilles was visit- 
ed by the plague, during the ra- 
vages of which Bishop Belzunce 
set a fine example of courage and 
humanity. 

Marseilles is divided into old and 
new towns. The first is built on 
the brow of a high hill ; the second 
has regular streets and handsome 
buildings. Marseilles is situated 
at the end of a gulf, covered and 
defended by islands, and has one of 
the largest and best harbours in the 
Mediterranean. 

The principal objects worthy of 
observation are: the markets, the 
town house, the cathedral church, 
containing some paintings by Puget, 
the ci-devant Grands Carmes, the 
arsenal, the theatre, the concert 
hall, the rope walk, St Victor, the 
antique tombs, the cloisters, the 
monastery, formerly belonging to 
the Chartreusian monks, half a 
league from the town ; the column, 
raised in 1802, in memory of the 
assistance obtained by the Pope 
during the plague of 1720; the La- 
zaretto, where vessels perform qua- 
rantine ; and the chateau d'lf, on an 
island, from which is a fine view of 
the town and harbour. In this 
chateau the celebrated Mirabeau 
was imprisoned. 

The streets of the new town are 
broad and well laid out with foot 
pavements. The promenades are : 



the Allees du Meinhan; the Course, 
particularly crowded on Sunday 
and Friday evenings, a beautiful 
street in the middle of which are 
two rows of trees, with stone seats, 
and on each side uniform buildings 
of imposing architecture ; the garden 
of the ci-devant Intendance; and 
the quays of the harbour, frequented 
at change hours. 

The coup-d'oeil, from the gate of 
Rome, is perfectly unique, particu- 
larly on Sundays, when the course 
is visited by a splendid company. 
The flower and fruit markets. 

The appearance of the harbour 
is very striking : here may be seen 
the vessels and productions of the 
four quarters of the globe as well 
as their inhabitants, in different 
costumes. 

The beauty and the purity of the 
climate of Marseilles is sometimes 
interrupted by a cold and strong 
north-east wind, called the mistral. 
Mosquitoes are likewise the scourge 
of this country, and can only be 
guarded against by having a cur- 
tain of gauze, called cousiniere, 
made use of at this place. The 
scorpion also infests the environs 
and even the town. 

In the environs are a prodigious 
number of small pleasure houses 
called bastides; the Bains de la 
Mediterranee are a short distance 
on the road to Aix. The soil is not 
fertile, but it produces wine, oil of 
olives, and fruits. The best red 
wines are those obtained from the 
vineyards of Seon St Henri, Seon 
St Andre, and St Louis, situated on 
the sea coast; the best white wines 
are from Cassis ; Roquevaire pro- 
duces the best Muscadel wines. 

Steam-packets from Marseilles to 
Naples, distance 150 leagues, touch- 
ing at Genoa, Leghorn, Civita Vec- 
chia. Four companies leaving Mar- 
seilles every two or three days. Fares 
fromMarseilles to Genoa : first cabin, 
75 frs.; to Leghorn, 105 frs. ; Civita 
Veechia, 140 frs. ; Naples, 200 frs. ; 



412 



ROUTE 81. — PARIS TO STRASBOURG. PART T. 



second cabin to Naples, 120 frs. 
Carriages and horses pay the same 
as first class passengers. Luggage 
allowed, first class, 70 kil-j second 
class, 45 kil. 

Steamers to Nice once a week 
every Wednesday, returning on 
Friday; fares: first cabin, 29 frs. ; 
second cabin, 19 frs.; occupying 
twelve hours. 

Steam-boats to Cette three times 
a week; fares: first cabin, 18 frs.; 
second cabin, 13 frs. ; carriages, 30 
frs. ; horses, each 15 frs. 

ROUTE 80. 

LYONS TO GENEVA. 





Myr. 


Kil 


Mynebel . 


1 


3 


Montluel 





9 


Meximieux 


1 


3 


Pont d'Ain 


2 


2 


Cerdon 


1 


3 


Nantua 


1 


9 


St Germain de Joux 


1 


3 


Bellgarde 


1 


2 


CoUonge . 


1 


2 


St Gsnis . 


1 


6 


Geneva 


1 


3 



15 



96| English Miles 

Diligences daily in twenty hours. 

Montluel, a small town on the 
Seraine, in the department of Ain, 
has a manufactory of coarse stufis 
called sardis. 

Meximieux, a small town on the 
Bresse, is situated, on the declivity 
of a hill and commands fine views. 

Pont d'Ain derives its name from 
an ancient bridge over the Ain, on the 
road to Belley and Chambery. On 
an eminence near it stands a cha- 
teau which once belonged to the 
dukes of Savoy. 

Cerdon is a large market town, 
which has paper mills. 

Nantua is a manufacturing town 
situated in a strait of the Jura, at 
the extremity of a lake of the same 
name. It has manufactories for 
Spinning cotton, dressing chamois 
and white leather, and making bed- 



furnitures, tapestry like that of 
Bergamo, coarse blankets, sack 
cloth, muslin, cottons, plate paper, 
and clocks. The trouts of the lake 
rival those of Geneva. In the 
mountain of St Claude, and in its 
quarries, are found the globules 
called dragees de pierre, or sugar 
plums of stone. 

St Germain de Jour — The road 
to this place is romantic ; and it 
has a lake which abounds with 
trout. 

BeVegarde. — Near this place are 
the rocks of Mont Credo, which are 
covered with thickets and bushes. 
Near Coupy is the celebrated fall of 
the Rhone, which disappears with 
a prodigious noise among the rocks, 
and remains concealed for the dis- 
tance of 300 paces, when it appears 
again with undiminished impetu- 
osity. 

CoUonge, near which is the Fort 
de Cluse, on the side of the steep 
mountain of Jura, and watered by 
the Rhone, which separated it from 
the departments of Leman and 
Mont Blanc. The pass of Cluse 
was formerly one of the keys of 
France. The origin of the first fort 
is unknown, but the foundations 
of the present were laid by one of 
the dukes of Savoy 

Geneva described at page 314. 
ROUTE 81. 

PARIS TO STRASBOURG BT NEUILLT 
SUR MARNE, SEZANNE, VITRT SUR 
MARNE, AND NANCY. 

Mail in thirty-four hours; fare, 
82 frs. 





Myr. 


Kil. 


Neuilly sur Mama 


1 


5 


Pomponne . 


1 


4 


Couilly 


1 


3 


Coulommiers 


2 





La Ferte Gaucher 


1 


8 


Retourneloap 


2 


2 


Sezanne 


1 


3 


Fere Champenoise 


2 


1 



TKANCE, -ROUTE 81 PARIS TO STRASBOURG. 



413 





Myr. 


Kil. 


Sommesouse 




6 


Coole . . • . 




4 


Vitry sur Mame . 




5 


Longchamp . 




6 


Saint Dizier 




2 


Saudrupt 




2 


Bar le Due . 




6 


Ligny 




2 


Saint Aubin 




9 


Void . 




4 


Lay Saint Remy . 




1 


Toul • 




1 


Velaine 




1 


Nancy 




2 


Champenoux 




4 


Moyenvic 




7 


Bourdonnay 




4 


Heming 


2 





Sarrebourg . 





8 


Homraarting 





8 


Phalsbourg . 





9 


Saverne 





9 


Wasselonne . 


1 


5 


Ittenheim 


1 


3 


Strasbourg . 


1 


3 


285 English miles = 


Myr. 45 


6 



Lagny, in the department of Seine 
et Marne, is beautifully situated. 
In the Place is a handsome foun- 
tain. 

Coulommieres, in the department 
of Siene et Marne, is built in a 
fertile plain, on the Great Morin. 
It is famous for dressing leather, 
and sends corn and flour to Paris. 

La Ferte Gaucher, a small town, 
which trades in grain. 

Vitry sur Marne, or Vitry le Fran- 
cais, in the department of Marne, 
is situated at the junction of the 
Saulx and the Marne. It is regu- 
larly laid out, although built of 
wood, and carries on a considerable 
trade in corn, wood, and coal. 

Sainte Daziere is a considerable 
town on the Marne, which here 
becomes navigable, and greatly 
facilitates commerce. The forests, 
which surround this town, contain 
excellent wood for ship building; 
and there are many iron works. 

Bar le Due is divided into Upper 
and Lower; it is watered by the 
Ornain, which abounds with fine 
fish, particularly trout. An im- 
mense number of fir and oak planks 



are brought to this place from the 
Yosges, and sent to Paris ; they are 
conveyed on rafts as far as Vitry 
le Fran9ais. In the church of St 
Pierre, Upper Town, is a statue 
representing a skeleton eaten by 
worms. Its suburbs produce hemp 
and wood, as well as wines, not 
inferior to those of Champagne, 
of which a great trafllc is made. 
Excellent preserves of strawberries, 
raspberries, and gooseberries are 
made here; likewise all sorts of 
steel work. In its neighbourhood 
are iron mines, mineral waters, and 
curious fossils. 

Nancy, formerly capital of Lor- 
raine, is considered one of the most 
beautiful towns in France. The 
principal buildings are: the cathe- 
dral, containing the tombs of the 
dukes of Lorraine, the town house, 
the barracks, the episcopal palace, 
and that of the ancient university. 
The church of Notre Dame de Bons 
Secours, in the old town, contains 
the marble mausoleum of king 
Stanislaus, a beautiful piece of 
sculpture by Girardon. Charles the 
Bold, the last Duke of Burgundy, 
was interred here, but was after- 
wards conveyed to Bruges in Flan- 
ders, to be deposited by the side of 
his daughter Maria. 

The triumphal arch in the Place 
Royal is worthy of notice. 

The commerce of Nancy is cloth, 
paper, liqueurs, candles, and types, 
for which it is famous. 

Diligences every day for Paris, 
Strasbourg, Metz, Colmar, Plom- 
bieres during the summer, and 
Dieuze. 

Sarrebourg is a town on the Sarre, 
which becomes navigable for boats 
at this place. It was an ancient 
city of Gaul. Charles IV, Duke 
of Lorraine, gave it up to France 
in 1666. Its position with respect 
to the Vosges rendered it in war 
an entrepot for military stores for 
the armies on the Rhine. 

Wassehne is situated on the 



414 



ROUTE 82. — PARIS TO BRUSSELS. PART V. 



Mossig. It has manufactories of 
wool, paper mills, and bleaching 
yards. In the vicinity are stone 
quarries. 

Strasbourg at page 223. 
EOUTE 82. 



FROM PARIS TO 


BRUSSELS 


BY 


VALENCIENNES. 










Mvr 


Kil. 


Le Bourget 


, 


1 


1 


Louvres 






1 


3 


La Chapelle en Serva 






1 





Senlis . 









9 


Pont Saint Maxence . 






1 


2 


Bois de Lihus 






1 


2 


Gournay sur Aroude 






1 





Cuvilly 









7 


Conchy les Pots . 









7 


K-oye 






1 


1 


Pouches 









9 


Marche le Pot 









7 


Peronne 






1 


2 


Fins 






1 


5 


Benavis 






1 


2 


Cam bray 






1 


I 


Bouchain . 






1 


5 


Valenciennes 






I 


7 



125 English miles = Myr. 20 

Le Bourget is a village at which 
Napoleon, on his return from the 
battle of Waterloo, in 1815, stop- 
ped for a few hours, in order that 
he might enter Paris at night. 

Louvres manufactures lace and 
blonds. 

Senlis on the Nonette, is an 
ancient town, nearly surrounded 
by a large forest. This town trades 
in wines and fine porcelain ; it 
manufactures lace. 

Pont Saint Maxence, on the Oise, 
has manufactures for combs, and 
for dressing buck skins and chamois 
leather. It derives its name from a 
handsome bridge here over the 
Oise. 

Roye. — The inhabitants of this 
town are employed in spinning 
cotton, and in knitting and weav- 
ing worsted stockings. 



Peronne is seated on the Somme. 
It has strong fortifications, and is 
also defended by marshes. Charles 
the Simple was confined and died 
in this town; and here Louis XI 
was detained a prisoner for some 
days by the Duke of Burgundy. 

The road to Arras turns ofi" here; 
distance, 4 myr. 3 kil., or 27^ Eng- 
lish miles. 

Cambray is a strong city on the 
Scheldt. The steeple of the cathe- 
dral is a delicate construction; the 
streets are regular, and the grand 
square has a handsome appearance. 
The principal objects deserving 
notice are the town house, a hand- 
some modern building; the cita- 
del, seated on an eminence ; the 
episcopal palace ; and the abbey 
church. 

It manufactures cambric, which 
takes its name from this place ; 
laces, like those of Yalenciennes ; 
tapestry, and carpets. The Spa- 
niards took this town in 1595, and 
kept it till it was united to France 
in 1667. The immortal Eenelon 
was archbishop of this place, and a 
monument is erected here to his 
memory. 

Bouchain is a strong place on the 
banks of the Scheldt. The French 
took it in 1676 ; and the Allies 
gained possession of it in 1711, 
after a memorable siege. 

Valenciennes, a strong town on 
the Scheldt, near its junction with 
the Ronelle ; that known by the 
name of Valenciennes' lace is made 
here. This town was the residence 
of the kings of the first race, and 
under Clovis an assembly of the 
nobles took place here. Louis XIV 
took it from the Spaniards in 1677, 
and it was bombarded and taken 
by the Allies in 1793. 

A railroad to Brussels three 
times a day in four hours ; fares : 
first class, 6 frs. ; second class, 4 frs. 
75 c. 



EUEOPEAN TOURIST, 



OR 



GUIDE-BOOK FOR TKAYELLEES. 



PART VI. CHANNEL ISLANDS. 



The opening of the South- 
Western Kailway has been of great 
advantage to Jersey and Guernsey; 
the pleasure-seeking travellers ar- 
riving by successive trains during 
the summer, have been tempted to 
step on board one of the well-ap- 
pointed steamers bound for the 
privileged islands ; or for a short 
sojourn en route to Normandy, the 
Loire, or South of France. 

ROUTE 83. 

SOUTHAMPTON TO PARIS BY GUERN- 
SEY, JERSEY, ST MALO, DINAN, 
RENNES, NANTES, THE LOIRE, 
AND ORLEANS. 

Steamers for Guernsey and Jer- 
sey every Tuesday, Thursday, and 
Friday evenings, at seven o'clock in 
summer, and Tuesdays in winter, 
returning from the islands every 
Monday, Thursday, and Saturday 
in summer, and Fridays in winter. 

Fares: main cabin, 25s.; second 
cabin, 18s. ; carriages, 3/. ; horses, 
3/.; dogs, 5s. 

St Malo and Granville from 
Jersey, main cabin, 10s ; fore 
cabin, 7s. 

The ' Camilla' will leave Jersey 
for St Malo every Wednesday, 
after the arrival of the Atalanta 
from Southampton, returning on 
the following day ; also to Gran- 
ville every Friday, returning every 
Saturday, during the summer 
months. 



Fares from Guernsey to Jersey : 
main cabin, 4s. ; fore cabin, 2s. 6d. 

Prices of refreshments on board: 
breakfast, Is. 6d.; dinner, 2s. 6d. ; 
tea, Is. 6d. ; fees to stewardess, 
ladies, 2s. ; children. Is. Pier dues 
at Southampton, each passenger, 
2d. each; parcel, 3d. 

Having determined upon th^ 
day for starting, it is desirable to 
secure a berth, by application 
either on board to the steward (the 
vessels always lie along side the 
pier), or of the agent, at No. 71 
High street. This latter may be 
done by letter. 

Persons intending to pass from 
Jersey into France should provide 
themselves with a passport, either 
in London, or of W. J, Le Feuvre, 
Esq., French Consul, 71 High 
street, Southampton. 

The voyage in favourable wea- 
ther is made in fourteen or fifteen 
hours, two hours to the Needles, 
six more to the Caskets, three to 
Guernsey, and three more to Jer- 
sey. This time, however, varies 
according to the tides, whether the 
wind is favourable or otherwise, 
but on an average the distance 
(145 miles) occupies about fifteen 
hours, including a stoppage of an 
hour at Guernsey. The first 
island seen after leaving the 
Needles is 

Alderney, distant from the Cas- 
kets about seven miles, ten from 
the French coast, and about 



416 



ROUTE 83. - GUERNSEY. LODGINGS. PART VI. 



twenty-two miles from Guernsey ; 
it contains only one town, with 
about one thousand mhabitants. 

The mode of hving in Alderney 
is primitive. Amongst the most 
respectable classes the income is 
from one hundred pounds to one 
hundred and fifty poimds per an- 
num, and even this expenditure 
can and does command a great 
deal ; a tolerable house may be had 
from 10/. to 15/. a year ; meat and 
poultry cheaper than in the other 
Channel islands, fish plentiful and 
cheap, and all exciseable articles 
can be brought from Guernsey at a 
very little advance over the prices 
at that island ; and it is a most con- 
venient place to wear out your 
old clothes. The English residents 
are chiefly composed of half-pay 
officers of low rank, who rusticate 
here upon the miserable pittance 
which they have earned in their 
country's cause, remote from the 
din of the world. 

The Casks s. — The Casket rock 
and lighthouses form the extre- 
mity of a broken ledge, which ex- 
tends in a westerly and northerly 
direction ; they are called by Cam- 
den the Caskets, and are about 
seven miles distant from Alderney. 
The rocks are about one mile in 
circumference at the nearest or 
most northerly point. They are 
steep and clean, with from twenty- 
five to thirty fathoms of water aU 
round; about twelve persons usually 
reside there. In 1744, the Victory, 
of 110 gims, with eleven hundred 
sailors and marines, foundered off 
the Caskets, and all on board 
perished. 

The next island we approach 
previous to entering the harbour 
of Guernsey is 

Herm, the property of one indi- 
vidual, and contains about forty in- 
habitants, and is within half an 
hour's sail of St Peter's Port. 

Jethou is a very elevated and 



picturesque object, and, excepting 
at one spot, its sides are precipi- 
tous. The inhabitants number about 
six persons. Visitors to this and 
the adjoining island should re- 
collect that there is little or no 
accommodation to be met with, so 
that a basket of provisions will be 
an essential accompaniment in their 
excursions. 

GUERNSEY. 

The fares to boatmen from the 
1st of May to 31st of October, both 
days inclusive, is, when the vessels 
are outside the pier, sixpence for 
each passenger, ordinary luggage 
included ; during the rest of the 
year, tenpence. When inside of 
the pier, or between the pier heads, 
threepence aU the year round. 
Passengers arriving and landing, 
and re-embarking without lug- 
gage, and persons from the shore 
going to, and returning from, the 
steam passage vessels without 
luggage, to pay tenpence all the 
year round, or fivepence each 
way. 

Porters. — The carriage of each 
passenger's efiects to the hotels and 
lodgings at the lower part of the 
town is sixpence only. 

In approaching St Peter's Port 
the shores do not possess the same 
attractions as those of Jersey, 
being more sterile and wearing 
less the aspect of fertiUty. The 
tower built on the slope of a hill 
looks very picturesque from the 
sea, with Castle Cornet standing 
on a rock about half a mile from 
the shore. To the extreme right of 
the town stands Castle Carey, now 
in the occupation of John Carey, 
until lately an absentee from his 
native soil. Government house is a 
conspicuous building in the centre 
of the town near Elizabeth College. 

The harbour deserves no parti- 
cular mention ; it is small, but o£ 



CHANNEL ISLANDS. — ROUTE 83. GUERNSEY. 



4i: 



sufficient dimensions for the trade 
of Guernsey ; the steam-packets 
seldom or ever enter it, but land 
and embark their passengers with- 
in half a mile of the piers ; this, in 
rough weather, is very inconve- 
nient, and could not be remedied 
except at high water, and even then 
at a great loss of time ; but the 
boats are large, weU built, and 
under strict regulations. 

Landing. — On nearing the piers 
the porters vociferate their respec- 
tive numbers, to the annoyance of 
the passengers, who, if not ob- 
structed in landing, are at least 
greatly inconvenienced and an- 
noyed ; this should be prevented 
by the harbour master, under 
whose jurisdiction they are. No. 7, 
extending his left arm, cries out 
"Monsieur;" No. 10 shoves No. 6 
out of his way, with " stand back. 
Jemmy, the lady is looking for 
me;" while No. 1 seizes the disputed 
trunk with a leer, bellowing out 
"everybody prefers No. 1." You 
are next assailed with the names 
and localities of the hotels and 
boarding-houses ; they are Mar- 
shals Royal Yacht Hotel, Gar- 
diner's Hotel, Tozer^s Hotel, and 
Shore^s Boarding House. This latter 
house has been established for 
many years ; and those who prefer 
cleanliness, cheapness, and quiet- 
ness to the bustle of an extravagant 
hotel, will find unostentatious but 
comfortable accommodation at Mrs 
Shore's. There are several other 
houses of accommodation, but they 
are not adapted to visitors. Lodg- 
ings may be had in various parts of 
the town and environs at various 
prices, from 10s. to 30s. a week, 
but altogether the accommodation 
is very inferior to Jersey, both in 
point of numbers, style, and variety 
of charges ; and those who are not 
induced by some particular motive 
would do as weU to avoid a landing 
at Guernsey, for although the town 
of St Peter's Port is very pretty 



to look at, it is the most villainous 
town to walk through I ever met 
with. The streets (if, indeed, they 
deserve the name) are narrow, 
winding, and steep, paved with 
rough stones, producing the most 
uneven surface, alike formidable 
to shoes and corns ; but walk out 
in what direction you may, indica- 
tions of wealth and comfort meet 
you at every step ; detached villas, 
handsome buUt houses, shady ave- 
nues, and well kept roads, render- 
ing the environs of St Peter's 
Port still more delightful and 
pleasant, particularly when con- 
trasted with the town you have 
just left. 

The principal Institution in the 
island is Elizabeth College, situate 
on an elevation above the town, 
with a large area around it orna- 
mentally laid out. The building 
is spacious and handsome, its ar- 
chitecture is mixed, with a monas- 
tic air about it. The interior is ad- 
mirably adapted to the purpose 
for which it was intended, and 
owes it origin to letters patent of 
Queen Elizabeth, by which, in the 
year 1563, eighty quarters of wheat 
rent were assigned for the endow- 
ment of a school. From the date 
of its foundation up to its erection 
into a college this institution 
existed litte more than in name ; 
but, to the honour of the states of 
Guernsey, means were adopted in 
the year 1824 to place this estab- 
lishment upon a more efficient 
footing ; this has accordingly been 
done, and Elizabeth College, under 
its present management, offers 
great advantages for the instruction 
of youth. 

The Workhouse, improperly called 
the Hospital, is also a very efficient 
establishment as a refuge for the 
destitute, and for the young a semi- 
nary for instruction. The average 
number of inmates is about 100 
men, 130 women, 50 boys, and 30 
girls; it was founded in 1743. 
T 2 



418 



ROutE 83. — GUEiaKs^iif. i:?toURgtoJf». Pxnt vt. 



The New Ground is the most de- 
lightful promenade in the two 
islands, formed of fine gravel walks, 
with rustic seats, with a large area 
of grass in the centre, and sur- 
rounded with double rows of large 
trees ; although comparatively neg- 
lected by the Sixties, it affords a 
delightful walk, and beautiful sea- 
views may be obtained from the 
upper side. 

The Fish Market is considered by 
Guernseymen the pride and most 
interesting lion of the island. It is 
a lofty narrow building, fitted with 
marble slabs, to the surface of 
which a plentiful supply of water is 
conveyed, and on some occasions 
the show of fish is various and 
plentiful, but certainly not cheap. 

The Meat and other Markets adjoin 
the fish-market. On Friday there 
is a good supply of pork ; on Satur- 
day (the chief market-day) there 
is an abundance of vegetables, meat, 
poultry (chiefly French ), and other 
good things, the prices of which 
are given in another part of this 
work. 

The Post office is in the Arcade ; 
letters are received until one hour 
before the expected arrival of the 
packets, unless they arrive in the 
course of the night, in which case 
letters must be posted before eight 
o'clock on the evening previous. 

The Court house is rather a small 
modern building, considering the 
various uses to which it is applied, 
namely, a house of lords and com- 
mons, criminal and civil courts of 
justice, a prison, and a residence; 
Saturday is the chief court-day for 
the trial of offenders. 

The Cemetery, or New Burial 
ground, lies behind the college, and 
is on an elevated position, from 
whence extensive views may be ob- 
tained; it was opened in 1831 for 
sepulchral purposes, and is sold in 
allotments to individuals, who are 
bound to conform to one design in 
all monumental erections. 



The above places form the prin- 
cipal points of attraction in the 
town and its immediate neighbour- 
hood, but as the entire island may 
be traversed in a few days, I here 
subjoin a few instructions, by fol- 
lowing which, all that is interesting 
may be seen in a convenient man- 
ner. 

FIEST EXCUKSION. 

Starting, proceed up by the mar- 
kets, Mill street, Park street, steam- 
mills ; fine nursery ground; Colborne 
road; through Letite Marche: on 
each side of the road is a beautiful 
diversity of scenery and villas ; en- 
tering (Grange road and passing on 
to Doyle road, which crosses the 
Grange at a right angle, and, turn- 
ing to the left, you come to some 
nursery grounds, where a couple of 
hours may be most agreeably spent; 
leaving the nursery and proceeding 
to the right, you come to Candie 
road, on the left of which are many 
neat detached mansions, inhabited 
by families of distinction ; turning 
to the right you will find ready 
access into the new burial ground, 
opposite the windmill, on the sum- 
mit of a hill ; leaving the cemetery 
by the gate you entered (the lower 
gate is always kept locked except 
when funerals take place) the open- 
ing nearly opposite leads to the 
Promenade, or New Ground, de- 
scribed elsewhere ; here is Castle 
Carey, the magnificent residence of 
the Careys, Amherst barracks, 
Marsh castle, commonly called Ivy 
casile, a venerable ruin ; by the sea- 
shore and Glatney, to the Espla- 
nade; this as it leads to the town 
along the beach, commands a fine 
view of the harbour and adjacent 
islands. 

SECOND EXCURSION. 

To visit the southern and south- 
western part of the island pass 



CHANKEL ISLAKBS. — ROUTE 83. GUERNSEY, 



419 



through Pedvin street, Haute Villa 
and George road, to Fort St George 
and barracks, from the ramparts 
of which, on a clear day, is a beau- 
tiful and extensive view ; the Cas- 
kets Alderney, Cape la Hogue, and 
a long range of the French coast, 
Herm, Jethou, Serk, and Jersey 
may be seen. Pass on the right 
Saumarez Manor house, Doyle s 
Monument, erected in 1816 ; it is 
ninety-six feet high. Jerbourg bar- 
racks, by St Martin's road, to Mou- 
lin Huet Bay, Saints' Bay, the vil- 
lage of St Martin, and from St 
Martin's to the Forest, to Petit-bo 
Bay. The St Peter's Church in 
the Wood is celebrated as the spot 
to drive to when anxious to tie the 
knot. Strangers in the island re- 
quire an inhabitant to accompany 
them for the purpose of satisfying 
the parson's conscience that it is 
neither an illegal nor a runaway 
match ! Torteval Church, Cave near 
Prevot Point, Bay of Rocquaine, 
home by St Saviour's. 

THIRD EXCURSION. 

Proceed down Pollet street, along 
the Esplanade, towards St Samp- 
son 's, by Belgrave Bay to the Grande 
Maison, St Sampson's Church, Vale 
castle, Druid's Altar, Landcrope 
Bay, Vale Church and Cemetery ; 
here is a druidical Kistaren in good 
preservation, Grand Rocque, pass 
the seat of the Lord de Saumarez 
by Queen's Mills to St Andrew's. 
From the Queen's Mills to town 
there are several pretty villas and 
nursery grounds; by Elizabeth cas 
tie into town. 

Climate — The climate of Guern- 
sey bears a great affinity to that of 
the south-west coast of England. 
Dr Clark considers it as interme- 
diate between that and the western 
parts of France ; there is no doubt, 
however, that it is milder than the 
latter in winter, and considerably 



warmer than the southern coast of 
Devonshire at all seasons, without, 
however, being much more humid. 

During the spring the easterly 
winds generally prevail, while west 
are the prevailing winds during the 
rest of the year, as the shorn aspect 
of the trees in that direction of the 
coast indicates frequent transitions 
of temperature ; and the prevalence 
of keen winds in the early part of 
the year, render that season trying 
to persons whose lungs are suscep- 
tible of such influences. The pre- 
vaihng disease in Guernsey is that 
protiform malady dyspepsia, popu- 
larly misnamed biliousness; it af- 
fects the peasantry more generally 
than the town residents, in conse- 
quence, no doubt, of their rneagre 
diet, it being a well-ascertained 
fact that the agricultural population 
of both Jersey and Guernsey chiefly 
exist upon potatoes, fish, and vege- 
table soup, inoculated with a lump 
of fat to give it at least the appear- 
ance of having fresh meat boiled in 
it ; but such a luxury is never seen 
on the table of even a respectable 
Guernsey farmer, except on Christ- 
mas day : on the whole, this island 
cannot be considered very healthy, 
as scarlet fever, measles, hooping- 
cough, and epidemic disorders are 
more prevalent and less tractable 
than in England. 

Guernsey contains a population 
of 27,000 inhabitants ; only about 
one-seventh are English. 

Leaving Guernsey and clearing 
Castle Cornet, we come in full view 
to the eastward, about seven miles 
distant of the Island of 

Serk, nine miles in circumference, 
three in length, and about one mile 
in breadth ; contains a population 
of about eight hundred persons. 
The fertility of the land is greater 
than either Jersey or Guernsey, 
and the consequence is, that nature 
does the greatest part towards pro- 
curing a subsistence for the agri- 
culturist. The inhabitants of this 



420 



ROUTE 83. — JERSEY. ttOTliLS. J?AnT VI. 



island live better than those of the 
same sphere in the other islands 
(not a difficult matter either), plenty 
of fish, meat three or four times a 
week, and they indulge in butter ; 
the surplus of every article they 
send to Guernsey market, where it 
meets with a ready sale. The in- 
cumbency of Serk is a perpetual 
curacy in the nomination of the 
seigneur. The hving is said to be 
worth 80/. a year, with a good 
house. The church, erected in 
1820, is a neat and commodious 
building, with a free school for the 
instruction of one hundred children. 
The constitution and government 
of Serk forms a part of the baili- 
wick of Guernsey, and is under its 
jurisdiction in civil, military, and 
ecclesiastical affairs ; but the legis- 
lative power as regards the local 
government of the island is vested 
in the seigneur and his forty te- 
nants, who together form a little 
parliament, which assemble three 
times a year. This assembly is 
presided over by an officer called 
the seneschal, who has the cogni- 
zance of civil cases ; but from this 
court an appeal lies to the Royal 
court of Guernsey. The other pub- 
lic officers are a provost, whose office 
is to plead the causes of the crown, 
to regulate weights and measures, 
and to arrest for debt ; a registrar, 
who has the custody of the records 
of the island ; and a constable and 
his assistant, called vingtenier, who 
constitute the police of the island. 
The provost and registrar are named 
by the seigneur, and the police 
officers by the forty tenants. 

In Serk, as in the other islands, 
there is a militia consisting of up- 
wards of one hundred strong, and 
ten pieces of artillery. Altogether, 
Serk is a remarkable place ; its ca- 
verns, its steep and many- coloured 
rocks, its fruitful and romantic 
valleys, its singular laws, and its 
natural fortifications, render it an 
object of peculiar interest to tra- 



vellers who can afford to devote a 
day or two to its inspection. There 
are a few lodging houses in the 
island ; for the use of bed room and 
sitting room strangers are charged 
from fifteen shilhngs to one guinea 
a week. Provisions are plentiful 
and cheap. During the time that 
the reader is perusing this brief 
sketch the steamer is rapidly ap- 
proaching the beautiful island of 
Jersey, for notwithstanding its abo- 
minable and absurd laws, its igno- 
rant law makers, its inefficient and 
irresponsible poUce, yet it is a 
beautiful spot, and the approach to 
it on a fine morning is calculated 
to awaken the most pleasing sensa- 
tions. 

On rounding Elizabeth castle we 
come in full view of Fort Regent, 
the town and harbour of St Heller's, 
leaving to the extreme left the town 
of St Aubin's, terminating the beau- 
tiful bay of the same name. 



FARES. 



Wint. 
d. 



Sum. 
d. 



From the quay to a vessel 

in the harbour - - 4 3 

From the quay to the first 

buoy, outside the harbour 6 4 

JERSEY. 

Landing. — Should it happen to 
be low water, which for passengers 
is too often the case, the landing is 
made in boats, which, at very low 
water, must disembark on the rocks 
or be carried on men's backs, and 
deposited like sacks of potatoes in 
a cart ; at other times the boats 
enter the harbour, and passengers 
quit them by steps at either of the 
piers ; indeed, when there is suffi- 
cient water to admit the steamer 
into the port, so considerate are the 
enhghtened law makers of the 
island that, although the steamer 
touches the pier, you must land by 
means of a boat, at a great incon- 
venience and risk, for the purpose 
of being taxed for the support of a 



CHANNEL ISLANDS* — ROUTE 83. PROVISIONS. 



421 



host of idle boatmen ; yourself and 
luggage are then handed over to the 
tender mercies of the porters, -whose 
numbers are again and again voci- 
ferated in your ears, which nothing 
can equal for noise and tumult that 
I ever heard. The touters of Calais 
or Boulogne are kept in subjection 
by the authorities, but here, alas ! 
where law makers are little better 
than old women, and the police 
affect to be gentlemen, these barba- 
rians are allowed free scope to jos- 
tle, bawl, abuse, and insult you. 
You are then importuned by a new 
set of solicitors, with, "Are you 
going to the British hotel ? to the 
Paris ? to the Union ? to the Eoyal ? 
the York ? or the London ? or 
Blanchard's boarding house ?" at 
the latter they profess to take you 
in for twenty-four shillings a week, 
but when you get out it is found 
to be thirty-four, to say nothing of 
being compelled to drink Marsala 
for Sherry, at three shillings a bot- 
tle, which may be purchased at 
10s. 6d. a dozen at the most paltry 
wine store in the island : well may 
Madame Blanchard prohibit her 
inmates from bringing their wines 
from the wine merchant. Visitors 
should resist this caper. 

Porters, — ^From the landing place 
to the hotels and taverns in the 
neighbourhood of the Royal square, 
9d. The effects thus conveyed for 
the above fares are not to weigh more 
than 80 lbs. 

HouseSf Lodgings, Hotels. — The 
houses in Jersey possess a fair 
average degree of comfort and con- 
venience, and many are bmlt in a 
superior manner, yet with the pre- 
vailing high winds they are mostly 
smoky ; rents are higher than in 
any other place in England, London 
excepted, but there are compara- 
tively no taxes. In board and 
lodging houses, or at the hotels, one 
cannot live cheaper than in Eng- 
land, and, although lodgings during 
the summer are as dear as else- 



where, yet to persons keeping house 
the difference in the price of provi- 
sions, particularly excisable arti- 
cles, is very obvious. The hotels 
enumerated above are nearly on a 
par, roomy and comfortable, with- 
out any pretensions to either style 
or splendour. 

A Hint. — In hiring lodgings be 
sure to agree for attendance. It is 
the custom among very "weU-to- 
do " Jersey people to do without a 
servant, and generally contrive to 
let the kitchen portion of the apart- 
ments without attendance, thus 
enabled to offer them at a temptingly 
low price ; but 

Servants are next to the high 
winds, local laws, and smoky chim- 
neys, the greatest nuisance in Jer- 
sey ; the resident ones are bad com- 
pared with those of England, and 
good servants imported from the 
mother country soon become inocu- 
lated with the careless habits and 
flippant independence of their fel- 
low servitors in the island ; and 
what would be considered a good 
servant is as rare a commodity as a 
day without wind; therefore our 
advice is, should you require a ser- 
vant of your own, take one from 
England by all means, unless yon 
make up your mind to enjoy a 
monthly change, and to wait upon 
yourself as much as possible. 

Average Prices of various Articles in 

the Jersey Markets, 

(In Jersey Currency.) 

Bread, IJd. to 2^d. per lb. 

Flour, 2|d. to 3|d. per lb. 

Meat, 6d,, 6^d., to 7d. per lb. 

Pork, 5d., 5^d., to 6^d. par lb. 

Poultry : geese, 2s. to 3s. each ; ducks, 
1 s. to 2s. per pair ; fowls, 2s. to 3s. 6d. per 
couple; chickens. Is. 6d. to 2s. per pair; 
turkeys, 4s. to 10s. each, according to size 
and season ; turkey poults (fine), 2s. to 3s. 
each. 

Fish, generally dear for a place sur- 
rounded by the sea, in consequence of the 
laziness of the Jersey fishermen. 

Butter, Is. in the summer ; Is. 3d. in the 
winter. 

Eggs, 9d to Is. per dozen, summer and 
! winter. 



422 



HOUTE 83. — JERSEY. CLIMATE. PART VI. 



Vegetables, according to season and 
crops ; but generally very cheap. 

Fruit, very dear, for Jersey. 

Teas and coffees : gunpowder, 5s. per lb.; 
hyson, 4s. to 4s. 6d.; hyson skin, 2s. 9d. to 
8s.; twankay, 2s.6d.to3s.; souchong, 3s. 4d. 
to 3s. 8d.; congou, 3s.; coffee lOd. to lid.; 
Mocha coffee, is. lOd. to 2s.; Bourbon do.. 
Is. 6d.; chocolate, Is. to Is. 3d.; cocoa, lOd. 
to Is. 

Sugars : Double refined sugar, 4^d. to 6|d. 
per lb ; single ditto, 4|d.; Havannah, 3|d. 
to 4d.; Brazil, 3d. 

Red wines, Port (so called), 15s.. 22s. 6d.: 
to 2.5s per dozen; Spanish, 10s. to I2s. 

Clarets, Lafitte, and Chateau Margaux, 
SOs. to 55s. per dozen; St George, 12s.; St 
Giles, 13s. 

White wines : Madeira, 30s. to 36s.; Sher- 
ry, the same ; Malaga, the same ; Marsala, 
8s. to 1 3s. 

Spirits: Brandy, Armagnac, 3s. to 4s. 
per gallon; Cognac, 6s. to 7s. 6d. ; Jamaica 
Rum, 5s. to 6s.; Hollands, 2s. lOd. to 3s. 4d. 

Cigars, from ls.6d. the 100. 

Weight. — The Jersey pound is equal to 
to about 17^ ounces English. 

Money. — One pound sterling is equal to 
M. Is. 8d. Jersey: a silver shilling equal to 
thirteen pence ; in copper there is no dif- 
ference. 

In GuernseyFrench money chiefly 
circulates. The English sovereign 
passes for twenty-one shillings, but 
there is no premium, as in Jersey, 
upon English silver. 

Having conned over the market 
table in the preceding pages, and 
noticed the difference in the cur- 
rency, the newly-arrived visitor will 
find that, upon comparing with the 
cost of the same articles in Eng- 
land, he will come to the conclusion 
that two hundred a year in Jersey 
will produce the same amount of 
comfort that three hundred would 
give in England, the odd himdred 
going into the excise and custom- 
house gulf; but a resident will 
find sufficient alloy mixed up with 
these tempting benefits to make him 
exclaim, "England, with all thy 
faults, I love thee still," and that it 
is, after all, the place most con- 
genial to the feeUngs and habits of 
Englishmen. 

Tlie Climate. — Next to the eating 
and drinking comes the very natural 
consideration, is the place healthy? 



is it mild in winter ? and cool in 
summer ? are there any fogs ? much 
rain ? Eh ! To the first question 
the answer generally given is, the 
natives live long ; to the second and 
third, more yes than no : to the 
fourth, more no than yes ; and to 
the fifth, more yes than no : to these 
may be added high winds, and con- 
sequently rattling doors and win- 
dows, and smoky chimneys ; conse- 
quently it is by no means the 
paradise of a region which Mr In- 
gUs describes it in his work on the 
Channel Islands ; he says, " that 
during the two years he resided 
there he never ?aw a flake of snow 
or any frost which did not yield 
during the forenoon, and from April 
till October fires are rarely neces- 
sary ; and in one respect there is 
another decided point of superiority 
which Jersey possesses, it is the 
equability of temperature during 
the twenty -four hours. In England 
a hot day is often, in summer, suc- 
ceeded by a chilly evening, but in 
Jersey the chill of the evening 
rarely admonishes one of the ne- 
cessity of closing the windows." 
We caution our friends and readers 
against this very pleasing picture 
of the climate. Mr Inghs must 
have been very fortunate during 
his residence ; in the winter of 
1840-41 there was plenty of snow, 
frost, and ice in Jersey, so much so 
that the whole country, trees, 
houses, shipping, &c., were literally 
encased, and the snow lay on the 
ground for many weeks. On the 
15th of November, 1841, there wa« a 
heavy fall of snow, and a tempest 
of hailstones on the next day, with 
numerous chilly evenings following 
mild warm days, sufficient to give 
amateurs in open casements the 
rheumatism for life ; but the gene- 
ral objection to the climate of Jer- 
sey is that it is damp, relaxing, and 
windy. This is true ; that the 
efiect of the two former may be 
counteracted to a certain extent by 



CHANNEL ISLANDS, — ROUTE 83. JERSEY SOCIETY. 



423 



drinking copiously of cold brandy 
and water ; and as the latter cannot 
be avoided, resignation with a good 
grace is strongly recommended. 

There are about twenty chemists' 
shops in the principal street in 
Jersey; this great fact ought to 
establish the question of the healthi- 
ness of the island. 

Society in Jersey, both as regards 
natives and residents, is like that of 
most small places, split up into little 
coteries, each consisting of two or 
three individuals or families, who 
pay routine visits to each other 
and to nobody else, except 
on great occasions, when they con- 
gregate to dance at the Paris hotel, 
or to hear music at the arsenal ; 
but even then the pert question is, 
*' Who is going ? " And such is 
the extent to which this exclusive 
system is carried, even amongst 
the tradespeople, that the chemist 
will not associate with the draper, 
the draper will not be seen with the 
grocer, the grocer turns up his nose 
at the tailor, and the tailor shakes 
not his bunch of fives with the 
snob. This system, adopted and 
pursued by all ranks and classes, 
renders not only Jersey but Guern- 
sey (where the different cliques are 
distinguished as sixties, forties, 
twenties, and. tens) the most unso- 
ciable place in the world. Amuse- 
ments, consequently, there are none, 
always excepting the movements at 
the signal post or the in-comings 
and out-goings of the steam vessels. 
This want of general intimacy and 
friendliness in the community is 
enhanced by the fact, that the 
Channel Islands, and Jersey in 
particular, are a sort of refuge for 
the destitute ; hence all are suspi- 
cious of each other. For the same 
reason that the British residents 
look upon each other with caution 
and distrust, the natives, both gentle 
and simple, regard the whole body 
of them with suspicion, added to 
their knowledge that Englishmen 



hate and ridicule their Norman 
laws and customs, and would fain 
see them superseded by those of 
England. The result of the last 
census, taken in 1841, rather star- 
tled the natives, by showing that of 
the entire population of the island 
one-third, and of the town popula- 
tion one-half, are British. This 
fact not only surprised the autho- 
rities, but not a little contributed 
to their increasing jealousy of Eng- 
lish interference and English influ- 
ence in the affairs of the island. 
Hence it is that, with but few ex- 
ceptions, between Jerseymen and 
the British there is very little 
social intercourse, much less any 
cordial, personal, or family inti- 
macy. The British residents look 
upon each other, and the natives 
upon them all, with suspicion, 
although they affect great par- 
tiality for the English— (?. e., gold). 
The Jersey people themselves are 
politically as well as privately 
divided into two factions or parties 
— the laurel or high, and the rose 
or low — who hate each other more 
bitterly than rival actors ; they 
seldom visit, seldom intermarry, 
seldom salute each other in the 
streets, and carry their mutual ani- 
mosities into every action of their 
lives, public and private. The pro- 
secution or defence of a criminal is 
too often made the vehicle of abuse 
from one party to the other, and a 
court of justice rendered the arena 
of political squabbles. 

These jealousies form a great bar 
to popular amusements, a defect 
which drives many families out of 
the island after a few months' resi- 
dence. Although there are two 
theatres in St Helier's they are 
scarcely ever open, and it is re- 
corded that, during the last twenty 
years, but one occasion is known 
of the house being fully attended : 
a party of gentlemen laid a wager 
that they would get up a play and 
draw a full audience ; they did so 



424 



ROUTE 83. — ^JERSEY. DIVINE WORSHIP. PART VI. 



by giving free admissions ! Thus 
it is that those who visit Jersey as 
they would a popular watering place 
in England, for fun and froUc sake, 
speedily quit it in disgust, and justly 
spread for it a grievous reputation 
for social dulness among their 
friends at home. So, with the rare 
exception of a concert, cricket 
match, or a Yankee review, there 
is nothing stirring, but stirring 
your stumps. 

Religion in Jersey is essentially 
Protestant. There is, however, a 
yearly increase of Catholics, prin- 
cipally Irish and foreigners ; their 
number amounts to between 2,000 
and 3,000. Of the Protestant com- 
munity, although aU the churches 
are devoted to the formula of the 
Church of England, full one-third 
are Wesleyan or other dissenters. 
Jews there are none, for a very 
good reason, although many have 
attempted to estabUsh a domicile 
amongst the natives, they find Jer- 
seymen too many for them. 

Public Places of Worship. 

Divine service is performed in 
the Erench language in the town 
and parochial church at eleven 
o'clock, on Sunday morning, even- 
ing at seven, and in English at half- 
past two ; also on Thursday even- 
ing, in French, at seven o'clock. 
Officiating ministers, Eev. Mr 
Heath, in English, and the Very 
Rev. the Dean, in French. 

St Paul's Chapel, New street. 
Ofiiciating minister. Rev. Mr Gal- 
laher. Service on Sunday in Eng- 
lish, at eleven o'clock in the morn- 
ing, and seven in the evening. 

St Jame£ Chapd, St James' street. 
OflBlciating minister, Rev. S. Lang- 
ston, A.B. Service on Sunday, in 
English, at eleven o'clock in the 
morning, and at half-past six in 
the evening. 

AU Saints' Chapel. Chapel of ease 
to the parochial church of St He- 



ller's. Officiating minister, the Rev. 
J. Meadows. Service on Sunday at 
eleven o'clock in the morning, and 
half-past two in the afternoon. 

Episcopal Chapel of Ease, Gorey. 
Officiating minister, the Rev. C. 
Robinson. Service in English at 
eleven o'clock in the morning. 

Dissenting Places of Worship. 

Calvinist Chapel, Upper Halkett 
place. Service in the French lan- 
guage, by the Rev. C. Perrot, at 
half-past ten in the morning, and 
at half-past six in the evening. 

Congregational Chapel, Union 
street. Service in English at eleven 
o'clock in the morning, and half- 
past six in the evening. Officiating 
minister. Rev. Mr Unwin. 

Albion Chapel, New street. Ser- 
vice in English at eleven o'clock in 
the morning, and half-past six in 
the evening. Officiating minister. 
Rev. Mr Jarvis. 

Salem. Chapel, Ann street. Offi- 
ciating minister. Rev. J. Carre, in 
the Fi'ench language. 

Wesleyan Chapel, Peter street. 
In English, at eleven o'clock in tlie 
morning, and six in the evening. 
Officiating minister. Rev. Mr Hope. 

Methodist Chapel, Don street. In 
the French language, at half-past 
ten in the morning, and half-past 
six in the evening. 

Roman Catholic ChapeL The Ro- 
man CathoUcs have three chapels 
in St HeUer's : one in Hue street, 
in English, officiating minister. Rev. 
Mr Cunningham, service at half- 
past eight and eleven o'clock in the 
morning ; one in Castle street, in 
the French language, officiating 
minister. Rev. M. Morlais ; and a 
third lately built at VauxhalL 

The States. — This body is com- 
posed of the governor, or his repre- 
sentative, the lieutenant-governor, 
the bailiff, the twelve jurats, the 
twelve constables (representatives 
of the parishes;, and the twelve 



CHANNEL ISLANDS. — ROUTE 83 JERSEY. 



425 



rectors of the parishes. The at- 
torney-general and sohcitor -gene- 
ral liave the right to address the 
assembly, but have no vote. The 
greffier (registrar) of the Royal 
court is also greffier of the states. 
There is also attached to this body 
the deputy-viscount (under-sheriff ) 
and his three men of business, 
under the title of denonciateures, and 
although the legislative power is 
lodged in the persons above named, 
no law for the raising of money, or 
permanent law, is valid till it has 
been sanctioned by the Queen in 
Council ; but these superlative legis- 
lators are attentive and cunning 
enough to promote their own 
interest by enacting laws tempo- 
rally, that is, for three years, and 
then renewing them, bj- which they 
evade the spirit of the constitution. 
In addition to the trickey legisla- 
tion, it must be obvious that, in an 
assembly thus composed, pubUc 
opinion can have little or no influ- 
ence. The parsons and jurats, 
entirely irresponsible to the people, 
the former nominated by the crown, 
and the latter being elected for life, 
are beyond all popular control, so 
that there is but one-third of this 
wretched apology for a legislature 
upon which public opinion can at 
all operate. The constables, I beg 
pardon, the representatives of the 
people, are not elected at one and 
the same period. Oh ! dear no ! 
they are elected for three years, 
but so arranged that one election 
takes place this month, another 
two months after, and so on, as the 
period of the three years terminate ; 
in short, popular feeling becomes 
tired out and tamed by endless 
procrastination, so that public 
opinion never can energetically 
manifest itself through the voices 
of the whole elective body ; but 
there is a broaching storm that will 
burst one fine morning upon the 
heads of these besotted and illiberal 
legislators. 



The Royal Court is composed of 
the bailiff, nominated by the crown, 
and twelve judges, chosen without 
reference to the educational quali- 
fication by the rate -payers. 

Landed Tenure and Inheritance. — 
Purchasing land or houses in Jersey 
is rather a ticklish affair. English 
gentlemen are cautioned not to do 
so until they liave lived suffici- 
ently long in the island to become 
acquainted with the circumstances 
of the sellers of such property, 
otherwise he runs the following 
risks : — If he buys a house, or a 
given quantity of land, his quiet 
enjoyment of that property depends 
upon the solvency of the individual 
from whom he purchases ; not his 
apparent solvency at the time of 
the purchase, nor with respect to 
his liabilities on the property 
bought of him, but in regard to the 
incumbrances on the whole of his 
landed estate, however extensive. 
It is true that, by a careful examina- 
tion of the register at the greffier's 
office, persons fully conversant with 
the value of landed property in 
Jersey may arrive at a satisfactory 
estimate of the risks which he runs 
by purchasing. Not so with the 
stranger, who, of course, imagines 
that if he buys a house and land 
for one thousand pounds, and pays 
the cash down, the property is his 
own ; he will probably find, as 
thousands have found before, that he 
has committed a grievous mistake, 
and that he has simply advanced 
money on possibly a fiftieth mort- 
gage on the whole of the landed 
property of the seller, however 
free from incumbrance the books 
of the greffier may show the parti- 
cular property he has purchased 
to be. 

The law of inheritance, also, 
operates so as to forbid any stranger 
from purchasing property which 
he cannot, in any case, dispose of 
by will according to his own plea- 
sure. The eldest son cannot be 



426 



EOUTE 83 JERSEY LAWS. PART VI. 



disinherited, and if there be no 
children, the next male heir takes 
possession, and no testament of the 
deceased can annul his claim. 

Landlord and Tenant. — In Eng- 
land the law of landlord and tenant 
differs widely from that of Jersey. 
There, if you rent a house, and 
agree to pay the rent quarterly or 
half-yearly, you cannot be in any 
way molested by tlie landlord till 
tlie complete expiration of the sti- 
pulated time. In Jersey, however, 
the landlord can arrest the body or 
goods of his tenant before the ink 
is dry upon the lease, for security 
that the rent shall be paid when 
due ; if the house be a ready-fur- 
nished one, he will, of course, arrest 
the person, locking the unfortunate 
tenant up in gaol, in order that, if 
he does not get his money, he may 
be sure of finding his debtor ; and 
what adds infinitely to this injustice 
towards newly-arrived strangers, 
is the custom or law which permits 
the sheriff to refuse the bail or 
security of any person, however 
rich, who is not a landed pro- 
prietor. 

If a stranger rent an unfurnished 
house, the instant his furniture is 
there the landlord may arrest it 
for security, and it is felony in its 
proprietor to take away or exchange 
one article of it ; and although it 
cannot be absolutely sold before the 
rent is due, yet, if the landlord has 
any suspicions, however groundless, 
the sheriff can put the goods under 
lock and key, or remove them to a 
place of safety. 

Never take a house unless upon 
a clear undertaking on the part 
of the landlord, in writing, signed 
by two witnesses, that such repairs 
as are required will be made by a 
given time, that under no circum- 
stances the rent or security for it 
should be demanded till the expira- 
tion of his stipulated time. 

Law of Debtor and Creditor. — 
The sharp sheriff practice of seiz- 



ing for security for ultimate pay- 
ment distinguishes also this branch 
of jurisprudence. Arrest of either 
goods or person in Jersey requires 
not the slightest ceremony. The 
creditor, either real or pretended, 
goes to the sheriff with his account, 
who accompanies him and arrests 
either the debtor or his goods in- 
stanter ; in some instances it is 
thought most advisable to arrest 
the household furniture and the 
stock in trade, in which case, no 
matter that the defendant asserts 
the claim to be illegal, unjust, or 
extortionate, and that he will resist 
payment, his shop is closed, and 
his effects put under seal, as a pre- 
liminary step in the suit, imless he 
can find landlord bail to pay the 
debt, if the court should ultimately 
decide upon its validity. If he can 
find no such security to pay, his 
shop is kept closed under the 
sheriff's seal till the decision of the 
inferior court ; and, if an appeal is 
made, till that of the full court iu 
his favour is pronounced, and that 
may not be for years afterwards. 
To effect this ruin, the creditor has 
not even the formality of an oath 
to go through, and if the full court 
at last dismisses the claim, and the 
defendant is discharged from the 
action a triumphant beggar, he has 
not the slightest claim in law to 
any redress. Individuals not pos- 
sessed of landed property, may also 
be arrested and lodged in gaol 
(unless they give security for pay- 
ment) on a note of hand, not due, 
perhaps, for many months. It 
should also be mentioned that a 
landed proprietor cannot be arrested 
or held to bail, except for a note of 
hand, but must be su,ed even for 
the smallest sum through a long 
and tedious process, which operates 
as an entire denial of justice. For 
example, an English resident, not a 
landed proprietor, has a demand 
made against him, suppose 5/. 16s., 
he is perfectly able to prove that 



CHANNEL ISLANDS. — ROUTE 83. JERSEY. 



427 



the demand is an imposition and 
double what he ought to pay, but 
he is liable to immediate arrest for 
it, and his best friends all advise him 
to pay it without hesitation or delay. 

Again, a poor man has a just 
claim against one of these landed 
proprietors for a very trifling debt, 
and the debtor refuses to pay. the 
swindled plaintiff has no remedy, 
but to pocket the wrong instead of 
the money. There is also a pecu- 
liar law, by which the natire rogues 
can set at defiance their creditors. 
A wife goes before the court, and 
obtains a separation from her hus- 
band, as far as regards property ; 
by this process husbands are not 
liable for the debts of their wives, 
nor for their maintenance ; by this 
act aU the personal property of the 
husband becomes the exclusive pro- 
perty of the wife, present and 
future. This plan is often resorted 
to, to cheat grasping landlords. 

Newspapers. — There are five 
English : the 'British Press' and 
• Jersey Times,' both published on 
the mornings of Tuesday and Fri- 
day ; the ' Jersey Gazette,' issued 
on the evenings of Monday and 
Thursday ; the ' Jersey Chronicle,' 
published on Thursday morning ; 
and the ' Jersey and Guernsey 
News,' published every Saturday 
morning. 

Education. — There are several 
excellent schools, both in St Helier's 
and other parts of the island, chiefly 
presided over by natives, with some 
two or three exceptions ; but the 
expense of education in Jersey is 
rendered higher than otherwise by 
the cost of sending children from 
England, and returning half-yearly. 
To those whose parents reside in 
the island, numerous establishments 
exist for day scholars, and masters 
in the various continental languages 
are very plentiful, but they must 
necessarily be of very moderate 
abilities, or they would never fag 
for one guinea a quarter. 



There is no endowed place of 
education as in Guernsey, excepting 
the two parish schools of St Anas- 
tose and St Manelier, foimded in 
the reign of Henry VIE, but now 
utterly ineffective for want of the 
necessary funds, to the disgrace of 
the wealthy islanders. 

Sporting. — The island of Jersey 
is a dull place for those who are 
partial to field sports : the appear- 
ance of a solitary strayed snipe, 
woodcock, or duck, is sufficient to 
set all the sportsmen (i. e. tinkers 
and tailors) in full chase, from 
"Grosnez" to "La Eocque." On 
walking near the beach and high- 
ways, keep a look-out for the juve- 
nile "poppers," who are eternally 
frightening the sparrows. Watch- 
ing the signal post, reading the 
newspapers, and attending the ar- 
rival and departure of steam- 
packets, are the only sports. 

Bathing may be enjoyed in per- 
fection, either " au naturel" or from 
machines, at Havre de Pas, or the 
Bay of St Aubin's. At the former 
place there are convenient and 
abundant rocks upon which to un- 
dress in comfort, either at high or 
low tide (the former is the safest), 
where the shore shelves down so 
gradually, and the bed of the sea 
so smooth, firm, and pebbleless, that 
in fine weather nothing can be en- 
joyed at this place more than a dip 
in the sea. 

The population of Jersey amount- 
ed in 1841 to 47,546, about one-third 
of which were English. 

EXCURSIONS IN JERSEY. 

First Day. -Toyrn of St Heliers, 
Fort Regent, Elizabeth castle. Town 
church, Post office, Eoyal square, 
in which is the Royal court, States, 
the Royal saloon, three newspaper 
offices, four grog shops, and a dirty 
figure in the attitude of a ballet- 
master ; Halket place, meat, vege- 
table, and fish-markets ; St James' 



428 



ROUTE 83.— EXCURSIOKS IN JERSEY. PART VI. 



church, the theatre, the workhouse, 
and prison, will terminate this day's 
excursion, in the course of which 
visitors will have satisfied them- 
selves that whatever the coimtry 
may be, the old town of St Heher's 
offers no temptation as a place of 
residence. 

Second Day.— To the Princess 
Tower, by Queen street and St Sa- 
viour's road, distant about two 
miles ; it is a beautiful spot ; from 
the top of the tower a most perfect 
panoramic view of the entire island 
may be enjoyed, including the coast 
of France. Take the left to St Mar- 
tin's church, Eoyal harbour along 
the coast to Bouley bay, by Bonne 
Nuit, to St Helier's. 

Third Dai/.— By Havre de Pas to 
Bocque Plate, St Clement's and 
Grouville villages, to Gorey mount, 
Orguiel castle, Druidical remams 
near the Arms Port, bay of St Ca- 
therine, back by St Martin and St 
Saviour's. 

Fourth Day.— To St Peter's Val- 
les. Cape Grosney with ruins, Ple- 
mont point, cove of Greve du Secq, 
or Pic-nic place. 

Fifth Day.— St Peter's, St Ouen s 
pond, bay of St Ouen, St Peter's 
barrack, St Aubin's town, a favou- 
rite abode of numerous English 
families. 



Sixth Day. — Noirmont Pont, 
Portlet bay,* St Brelades bay, vil- 
lage and church, in which are the 
ruins of an ancient chapel ; Corbier 
point, return by St Brelade and St 
Aubin's by omnibus. The above 
excursions wUl include the entire 
island and aU its beauties. 



Steam-packets leave Jersey for 
St Malo every Wednesday after the 
arrival of the steamer from South- 
ampton, returning the following 
day; to Granville every Friday, 
returning on Saturday. Fares, chief 
cabin, 10s. ; fore cabin, 7 s. The 
passage is made in fine weather to 
the former in four hours, to the 
latter in three hours. 

N.B. No traveller should think 
of going to Granville, except en 
route to Havre. 

St Malo. — (Hotel de France. H. de 
la Paix.) Population, including St 
Servan, about 2,000. There is no- 
thing worthy the attention of tra- 
vellers to tarry here beyond the 
necessary waiting for conveyances, 
which may be occupied in enjoying 
the beautiful sea views which every 
height will command. 

Eoute from St Malo to Nantes, 
see page 402. 



HAND-BOOK FOR ITALY, 



OR 



GUIDE-BOOK FOR TEAYELLEES. 



PART VI. NORTHERN. 



EOUTE 84. 

GENEVA TO MILAlf BY THE SIMPLON. 

46 French and 6 Italian postes, 
279 English miles. 

A diligence from Geneva to Milan 
every day at twelve, through Lau- 
sanne, where it stops from seven in 
the evening till midnight; stop to 
dine about twelve at Sion (look 
after your luggage here ) ; at Brigg 
there is a delay of eight hours, 
from seven till three in the morn- 
ing. At the inn at Simplon at 
twelve; dine on so-so fare, a la table 
d'hote, 3 frs. ; at a separate table 
with the refuse, 5 frs. ! About three, 
arrive at the frontier of Savoy; 
five at Domo, where there is ano- 
ther delay of eight or nine hours, 
and reach Milan in something like 
eighty hours. The fare is 65 frs. ; 
all luggage exceeding forty pounds 
is charged very high. 

TARIFP or PRICES PER POST. 

fr. c. 
For each draught or saddle horse 1 50 

Postilion 75 

Stable boy - - - . - 25 
Four-wheeled carriage ---10 
Two-wheeled ditto - - - 60 

If well served, it is usual to give 
the postilion a mancia of 2 frs. 

From the 1st of November to the 
1st of April, the passage of the 
Simplon being attended with diflS.- 



culty, an extra 50 c. per horse and 
per post is demanded from Domo 
d'Ossola to Isella, and from Isella 
to Simplon. 

The postmasters at Brigg and 
Domo d'Ossola have the right of 
adding an extra horse to a two or 
three- horsed carriage : and two 
horses and a postilion to a carriage 
and four. 



Dovaine ------ 

Thonon ------ 

Evian ------ 

St Gingoux - . - . 

Vionne ------ 

St Maurice 

Maitigny ------ 

Riddes - 

Sion - ------ 

Sierre --._-. 
Tourtemagne - - - - - 

Viege - - 

Brigg 

Berisal ------ 

Simplon - - - - 

Isella (passports and luggage ex- 
amined) ----- 2^ 

Domo d'Ossola - - - - 2J 

Vogogna ------ 2 

Fariolo ------ 3 

Arona ------ 2^ 



Postes. 

• 2 

• H 

■ H 

■ H 
. 2i 

■ u 

H 
H 



Sesto Calende (poste Italian) - 
Gallanate ----- 
Legnanello - - - - 

Rho 

Milan 



52 



On leaving Geneva, and going 
along the southern side of the lake, 
the country on its borders has a 
very different appearance on the 



430 



VALAIS. — EOUTE 84. GENEVA TO MILAN. SIEERE. 



Swiss side; the hills of the Pays de 
Yaud are covered with rich vine- 
yards, interspersed with pretty 
towns and villages, while the moun- 
tains which rise on the Savoy side 
are more varied, grander, but less 
fertile. 

Thonon, the ancient capital of 
the duchy of Chablais, pleasantly 
seated on the lake of Geneva, is 
the first town of any note; the 
situation of the castle merits atten- 
tion, and at a little distance from 
the town is the convent of Eipaille, 
which has a beautiful park. About 
a mile from Thonon, we pass the 
Drance, by a long narrow bridge, 
apparently built by the Romans. 
The aspect of the road here sud- 
denly changes from being monoto- 
nous to hills covered with groves 
of fine walnut trees. We norw 
pass the source of the Amphion, once 
celebrated for its mineral waters. 

Evian, remarkable for the rocks 
of Meillerie. The obstacles pre- 
sented hereby nature to the forma- 
tion of the new military road made 
by Napoleon, may be conceived, 
when masses of stone, 200 feet high, 
were cut through, whilst two walls 
were obliged to be built; the first 
as a parapet, the second to strengthen 
the foundations of the road, and 
prevent their being washed away 
by the lake, on whose bed they rest. 

Entering the new department of 
the Simplon, we arrive at St Gin- 
goux, which belongs to the Valais. 
From St Gingoux boats laden with 
fish, and larger vessels with fire- 
wood, go four or five times a week 
to Geneva and the neighbourhood. 
The size of the lake now begins 
sensibly to diminish, and on its 
opposite shore are seen Vevey, the 
chateau de Chillon, and the valleys 
on the sides of the mountains of 
the Pays de Vaud. 

After passing Riddes the pros- 
pect changes, exhibiting fine pas- 
tures, remains of ancient castles, 
churches, and villages; and the 



approach to Sion, through the val- 
ley of the Rhone, displays much 
noble scenery with cheerful beauty. 
Sion. — Inn, Zion d'Or. Tra- 
vellers by the diligence dine here ; 
the fare is good ; charge. 3 frs. 

Sion, the capital of the Haut Va- 
lais, is seated partly on the right 
bank of the Rhone, and partly on 
the Sitten. This town is a very old 
Swiss bishopric, and contains seve- 
ral churches, convents, and an 
hospital : the great church in the 
centre of the town is a handsome 
edifice, the hospital is a fine modern 
building, and the convent belongs 
to the order of the Capuchins. Each 
of the three hills on which this town 
stands is crowned by a castle, and 
above Sion, to the right, are two 
other castles, Seon and Montorges; 
on the opposite side there are a 
church, convent, kitchen, and a 
few cells, all hewn out of the solid 
rock. Near Sion flows the Merges, 
which is the boundary between the 
Haut and Bas Valais. 

Sierfe. — Inn, Z,e Soldi. Sierre, 
seated on the stream whose name it 
bears, is a pretty little town ; it has 
a church and sOme good buildings, 
particularly the post office. The 
road on issuing from Sierre enters 
the valley of Loueche, as that part 
of the great valley of the Rhone 
which extends from Sion to Brigg 
is at times termed, although the 
valley of Loueche, properly so 
called, branches off to the north 
of this valley. The large fortress 
of Alt-Siders and the castle bf Beau- 
regard are situated on a rock at 
the entrance of the valley of Anni- 
viers, on the opposite side of the 
Rhone from Sierre. From this 
town to the baths of Leuk the dis- 
tance is about five leagues. 

The town of Leuk is situated on 
the side of a mountain, and de- 
fended by an ancient castle ; here 
we obtain a view of the whole 
chain of Alps connecting the Sim- 
plon and Mont St Gothard. 



VApAIS. — ROUTE 84. GENEVA TO JOLAN. BEIGG. 



431 



Tourtemagne. — Hotel, Z,ian d'Or, 
not very good. About half a mile 
from Tourtemagne, but not in the 
high road, is a waterfall, not so mag- 
nificent, but more beautiful in situa- 
tion than thePissevache, the torrent 
being precipitated in a mass from 
an amphitheatre of rocks ; it is 
well worthy of notice. 

Viege, situated on the banks of 
the Visp, a river nearly equal in 
size to the Ehone : at Vi^ge are 
two churches of curious architec- 
ture. Between Viege and Brigg 
we cross a good deal of marshy 
ground, and also traverse the bed 
of the Ehone. 

Brigg. — Hotels: Du Simplon, the 
best ; civil and attentive host, 
situated at the entrance of the 
town, opposite the post house ; 
beds, 1 to 2 frs. ; breakfast, 1 fr. ; 
table d'hote at twelve, with wine. 
3 frs. ; at seven in the evening, 
2§ frs. Horses and cars for pass- 
ing the Simplon, or excursions. 
Poste ; Angkterre, closed in August 
1844. Although Brigg is half a 
mile out of the great road, it is a 
better resting place than Glise. 

The little town of Brigg in itself 
possesses nothing to detain the 
traveller ; but a day may be agree- 
ably spent in an excursion to the 
glacier of AJetsch, situated about 
twelve miles from Brigg. This 
celebrated glacier is one of the 
largest and most beautiful in the 
entire range of the Alps ; its entire 
length exceeds twelve leagues. 

A car may be taken to Morel, 
from thence to the edge of the 
glacier on mules or horses. 

The diligence from Geneva to 
IVIilan arrives at Brigg about seven 
in the evening of tlie second day, 
and leaves for the Simplon at four 
in the morning. 

A carriage from Brigg to Domo 
d'Ossola, with two horses, including 
barriers, relays, buona mano, costs 
from 60 to 70 frs., taking three 
persons with a moderate quantity 
of luggage. Posting per horse per 



post, 1 fr. 50 c; postilion, 1 fr. 
50 c. to 2 frs. 

The best and most convenient 
plan for the traveller to adopt in 
passing the Simplon is to remain 
at Brigg all night and start with 
the dawn next morning. It takes 
from Brigg to the village of Sim- 
plon, in ascending, from six to six 
hours and a half, and from the vil- 
lage of Simplon to Domo d'Ossola, 
in descending, five hours. The 
distance from Brigg to Domo 
d'Ossola is fourteen leagues. The 
toll for each horse passing the 
Simplon is 5 frs., which is paid at 
the frontier. 

On leaving Brigg we take the 
grand military route (pedestrians 
will find a footpath in a direct 
line up the mountain to the second 
refuge, thus saving one hour ; an 
hour may also be saved by taking 
a footpath down the mountain, 
about half a mUe on the left, after 
leaving the Simplon inn), and imme- 
diately pass one of the first works 
of the Simplon, the bridge over 
the Saltine, and begin to ascend by 
windings to a dark forest of firs, 
presenting views of the valley of 
the Rhone encircled by Alps, Mont 
Blanc towering above all. After 
passing the first gallery, we cross 
the Kanter over a bridge seventy 
feet high. On the left of Brigg is 
the pretty village of Naters, washed 
by the Rhone, which descends from 
the summits of the Purca. 

The Simplon road was com- 
menced in the year 1801, and 
finished in 1805, at the joint ex- 
pense of the kingdoms of Prance 
and Italy. Napoleon found it ne- 
cessary to employ three thousand 
men in its construction. The 
breadth of the road is twenty -five 
Paris feet ; the number of bridges 
thrown across the rocks amounts to 
fifty ; and the galleries, chiefly 
hewn out of solid masses of granite, 
to five : and so gradually sloping 
on both sides is this magnificent 
road, that to drag the wheels, even 



432 



VALAIS. — ROUTE 84. GENEVA TO MILAN. THE SllVIPLON. 



of the heaviest carriages, is scarcely 
necessary. The French engineers 
conducted the work on the side of 
the Haut Valais, and Sig. Gianella, 
now Direttore delle Pubbliche Cos- 
truzioni, directed it on the Italian 
one. In the enterprise of con- 
structing this road, Gianella is said 
to have exceeded himself, for he 
liad Herculean difficulties to over- 
come, being compelled to hore 
through, and blow up, the hardest 
rocks obstructing his passage ; 
while occasional masses of slate, in 
many places already decomposed, 
were the only obstacles that im- 
peded the French artificers. The 
(Quantity of gunpowder used in 
blowing up the rocks on the Italian 
side is said to have amounted to no 
less than 17,500 pounds. When 
we contemplate the stupendous 
height of this majestic mountain, 
the frequent appalling precipices 
l>ordering the road, the impetuous 
torrents and roaring waterfalls fur- 
rowing its sides, the tremendous 
avalanches, " those thunderbolts 
of snow," by which its dark forests 
are often uprooted, we cannot but 
acknowledge that men who, in de- 
fiance of obstructions such as these, 
could form a road exempt even 
from the appearance of danger, and 
so excellent, that (as far as regards 
personal convenience) we might 
imagine ourselves travelling in an 
ordinary country, deserve, in point 
of genius, to be placed even above 
the ancient Romans. 

Some of the defiles are so strait- 
ened, and the road lies so directly 
under the double wall of perpendi- 
cular crags, that the traveller looks 
up with a shudder, lest the loose 
masses on the top should give way, 
and hurl destruction on his head. 
But in order to prevent the large 
fragments above from falling, broad 
paths are formed in the upper part 
of these rocks to arrest whatever 
may be detached either by tempest, 
i.'ascades, or avalanches This 
road is wrought near the brink of 



profundities that absolutely scare 
the beholder, and is supported by 
an immensely thick wall of granite, 
varying in height according to the 
inequalities of the ground. But 
what words can convey to the rea- 
der an adequate idea of the mas- 
terly skill with which some bridges 
are thrown over impetuous streams ? 
Wiio is not astonished at seeing 
that the genius of man has opened 
a road over rocks that encompassed 
him on every side, and constructed 
paths over abysses that appeared 
eternally to preclude his further 
progress ? Who can fully appre- 
ciate the advantages of having pro- 
cured a quick and safe passage for 
human beings, cattle, and all sorts 
of caiTiages, during all seasons, and 
through regions of eternal snow?* 
The chaste and elegant construc- 
tion of the arches ; the zig-zag 
work almost similar to that on the 
Piedmontese side of Mont Cenis ; 
the cavities through which the 
annual melting of the winter snow 
discharges itself, without injuring 
the road; but above all the stu- 
pendous galleries perforated in the 
solid granite, are works calculated 
to brave the most furious storms, 
and to resist the destroying hand 
of time. The Roman constructions 
of this description, surprising as 
they are, cannot vie with the glo- 
rious road leading from the little 
town of Arona to the cloud-capped 
top of the Simplon. The scenery 
of the pass is superb, and becomes 
more and more astonishing at every 
stage of the traveller's progress. 
Houses on the brink of lofty preci- 
pices with still loftier precipices 
above them ; horrible chasms that 
ever and anon discover themselves ; 
narrow defiles, along whose tower- 



* Nothing appeared impossible to Napo- 
leon. On one occasion he was giving some 
impracticable orders, which were humbly 
represented to him to be impossible ; when 
he burst out: — " Comment? ce mot n'est 
pas Fran^ais." 



TALAIS. — ROUTE 84. GENEVA TO MILAN. THE SIMPLON. 433 



ing sides, apparently impracticable 
and barren, the hardy peasant has 
tilled strip above strip of land ; 
tremendous gulphs, down which the 
foaming waters of streams and 
torrents pour with deafening cla- 
mour; charming cascades ; bold 
windings and sinuosities; beautiful 
glens with dark forests of firs ; un- 
expected openings displaying them- 
selves in constant succession ; the 
view of Mont Blanc proudly tower- 
ing above the desolate sublimity of 
a trackless region; narrow, awful, 
appalling gorges, imparting ideas of 
a terrific solitude, from which the 
travellefis sometimes glad to emerge : 
each and all these grand objects are 
highly calculated to inspire the be- 
holder with awe. And when we 
consider that this amazing prospect 
ean be commanded by a beautiful 
road, in the greatest part protected 
by a line of posts and rails, shall we 
QOt forgive Napoleon his boast, after 
this work and that of Mont Cenis 
ivere completed, that the Alps are 
no more ? 

From the second refuge to the 
bridge across the Gauther the road 
slightly descends. After crossing 
this ravine the road winds gradually, 
occupying about twenty minutes to 
Berissaal, a post house and inn, 
where travellers not very fastidious 
may obtain refreshment and beds. 
Berissaal Ms three and half leagues 
from Brigg. 

After passing through the first 
gallery cut through the solid rock, 
the road passes beneath the Kalt- 
wasser glacier by several galleries 
to the bighest part of the pass, 
6,580 feet above the level of the 
sea ; the spot is marked by a wooden 
cross ; this point is usually gained 
in five hours from Brigg. A short 
distance beyond is the new Hospice, 
which has been occupied since 1 831 ; 
it is a large, solid stone building,' 
and will afford sleeping accommo- 
dation for sixty persons, twenty for 
the better class of travellers, and 



forty for the poorer. The residents 
permanently stationed here are — 
three brothers of the St. Augustin 
order of monks, aeook, two servants, 
and three dogs. 

From the Hospice the descent is 
easy ; passing on the right the old 
Hospice, now used as a refuge for 
the cattle belonging to the convent, 
near which passes the original paved 
mule path or road across the Simp- 
lon, and now only used by the natives 
as a shorter path. About three 
miles of descent brings us to the 
village of Simplon or Sempione, 
distance eight leagues from Brigg, 
and six from Domo d'Ossola. This 
village is the most miserable and 
most wretched cluster of hovels to 
be met with between Ostend and 
Naples. The inn (post house) is 
dear and dirty ; damp sheets, hard 
bread, hard water, hard old hens, 
and of course hard eggs ; this is 
what the Red Mask calls "good 
accommodation." 

At Isella, an hour and a halfs 
drive further, there is a new inn, 
having every appearance of being 
at least clean, and, as it is on the 
frontier, is a much better place to 
stop at than the Simplon; but by 
starting early from Brigg, Domo 
d^Ossola may be easily reached in 
one day, even en noiturier. At 
Simplon it is usual to furnish a 
wooden shoe, to save the friction of 
the iron skid of your carriage, as 
the descent, after leaving the inn, is 
very steep ; the cost with a cord is 
two frs.; without a cord, one fr. 
An iramen«?e sweep brings us to 
the first gallery on the Italian side ; 
it is 250 feet in length, cut througb 
the solid rock, the torrent Doveria 
roaring past its side. Beyond the 
ninth refuge is the Gallery of 
Gonda, 600 feet in length, with two 
openings which admit light. This 
was the most difficult excavation in 
the entire line of this stupendous 
work. On emerging from this ca- 
vern the traveller comes suddenly 



434 NORTHERN TTALY. — ROUTE 84. GENEVA TO MILAN. ISELLA. 



in view of a roaring cascade, turn' 
bling as were upon him in its 
passage to join the torrent beneath, 
where the " meeting of the waters" 
at a distance renders this spot both 
grand and sublime. 

Gonda. — The Swiss boundary is 
reached in half an hour; on the 
right is a small waterfall, and a 
solitary green patch, where the 
douaniers try to rear a few sickly 
plants. 

Isella, the frontier town of Sar- 
(^inia, at which the custom-house 
officers examine the luggage and 
vis^ the passports ; to pass here, the 
Sardinian viseis indispensable. After 
quitting Isella we arrive at the 
sombre gorge of Yeselles, surrounded 
by perpendicular rocks, from whose 
summits fall tremendous cascades, 
echoing with the dreadful roar of 
the river Diverio, whose waters rush 
furiously through immense broken 
fragments of gigantic rocks; this 
gorge extends to Divedro. From 
Divedro we pass to the Yal' Dive- 
dro, a wild glen, and after crossing 
two bridges, and passing through 
the fifth and last cavern, over the 
magnificent bridge of Crevola, com- 
posed of two arches supported by a 
pillar of great strength and beauty, 
and deemed a master-piece of archi- 
tecture, thus nobly finishing the last 
of the works of the Simplon, Here, 
as we approach Domo d'Ossola, the 
rich, beautiful, and extensive plains 
of Italy open to our view, and form a 
delightful contrast to the sublime 
•and sometimes terrific grandeur 
which we have just left behind. 

Domo d'Ossola. — There are two 
hotels, about upon a par for ac- 
commodation ; the charges are-^ 
beds, 1 to 2 frs. ; breakfast, 1 fr. ; 
table d'hote at one, 2^ frs. ; at four, 
34 frs. ; at seven in the evening, 2| 
frs. The above prices include the 
wine of the country. 

Carriages for four persons may be 
hired here for Baveno, 12 frs.; to 



Milan, 60 frs. ; to Brigg, 70 frs. ; 
returns much cheaper. Diligence 
from Greneva stops here some hours. 
Passports are demanded and signed. 
Fares from Domo to Beveno, 7 frs., 
50 c.; Milan, 18 frs. 

N.B. Married people, curious in 
that way, will be pleased to see 
here the first sample of an Italian 
bed, nine feet by six, instead of six 
by two. 

About seven miles beyond Domo 
pass the Tosa by a new bridge ; 
from this spot is a fine view of Mont 
Eosa ; here is a toll of half a franc 
for each carriage. 

Vogogna. — Inn, the Crown. Six 
miles beyond, cross the Tosa again 
by a wooden bridge. On the 2nd of 
September, 1844, part of this bridge 
gave way, only a few hours previous 
to my passing en route to Milan. 
From this spot to Baveno it takes 
one hour and a half. 

At Fariolo, first view of the Lago 
Maggiore ; pass marble and granite 
quarries, along the edge of the lake, 
to 

Baveno. — Hotel ^ Adame (freres), 
beautifully situated, good cook, civil 
host, and moderate charges ; board 
and lodging provided for families 
making any stay. 

TAX FOR BOATS ON THE LAGO 
MAGGIORE. 

fr. c. 
From Baveno to the Borromean 
Islands and return, if not ex- 
ceeding two hours, with two 

rowers 5 

For each succeeding hour . .1 

In bad weather, with three rowers 7 50 

To Laveno, three rowers . . 10 50 

ToMagadino . . . . 24 

To Sesto or Luino . . . 16 50 
To Suna, Pallanza, Intra . .60 
September 3, 1844. 

The above fares do not include 
huona mano. 

EXCURSIONS FROM BAVENO. 

hours. 
The Journey jfrom Baveno to Mon- 
teroni requires . . . .24 



PIEDMONT. — ROUTE 84. EXCURSIONS FROM BAVENO. 435 



hours. 
From Baveno to Monteroni and Orta 3 
To visit the mountains of St.Francis, 

St. Thomas and St. Julian . . 1^ 
From St. Julian to Pella, by boat . l| 
From Pella to VaraUo, through La 

Lalma .8 

To visit Sacro Monte .... Ij 
From Ciriago to Omegna . . .3 
From Omegna to Baveno, By car- 

^ riage 1^ 

From Omegna to Orta, by water . 1^ 
Ditto ditto by land . ij 



Asses are provided to ascend the 
Monterone, for each of which the 
charge is 4 frs. ; as far as Orta, 8 frs. 
For guides to Monterone, 4 frs. ; to 
Orta, 8 frs. : to VaraUo and Mon- 
trosa, 6 frs. per daj. Travellers 
reaching Baveno in the evening can 
next day visit the Borromean islands, 
and by means of the steam-boats 
can reach Sesto Calende at noon, 
and Milan at seven p.m. Travel- 
lers by steam-boat to Baveno from 
Sesto Calende, Arona, Laveno, Ma- 
gadino, can visit the Borromean 
islands in the small boats which 
attend the steamers at 1 fr. per head. 
The diligence for the Simplon passes 
through Baveno daily at four p.m., 
and places may be secured of the 
proprietor of the hotel. The steamers 
on the Lago Maggiore are small, 
but neatly fitted up with first and 
second cabins, and a tolerable re- 
staurant on board ; the charges are 
fixed by a tariff, as well as the fares. 
Formerly the service was sometimes 
interrupted, but there are now two 
boats — one being ready to take the 
place of the other in case of accident 
or unexpected delay. They are the 
* Verbano' and ' St. Charles.' Tra- 
vellers joining the steamer en route 
must in every case be put on board 
by the boats appointed by the com- 
pany, and are under the surveillance 
of the custom-house officers. Each 
boat so appointed carries a small 
flag, and the fares for landing and 
embarking are fixed and added to 
the fare of the steamer ; thus effec- 
tually preventing any overcharge or 
annoyance to strangers. 





1st 


. cl. 


2ndcl. 


FARES. 


fr. 


c. 


fr. 


c. 


From Magadino to Lo- 










carno and Ascona . 





60 





35 


— to Brissago 


1 





3 


60 


— Canobio . 


1 


80 


1 


10 


— Canero or Luino 


2 


20 


1 


30 


— Intra or Laveno 


3 


60 


2 


15 


— Pallanza . 


3 


80 


2 


30 


— Stresa or Baveno 


4 


20 


2 


50 


— Belgirate . 


4 


80 


2 


90 


— Arona 


5 


80 


3 


50 


— Sesto Calende . 


6 





3 


60 


From Sesto Calende to 










Arona . , 


1 


20 





TO 


— Belgirate . 


2 


20 


1 


30 


— Stresa or Baveno . 


3 





1 


80 


— Pallanza . 


3 


20 


1 


90 


— Intra or Laveno 


3 


40 


2 


5 


— Canero or Luino 


4 


50 


2 


70 


— Canobio . 


5 





3 





— Brissago . 


5 


60 


3 


35 


Ascona or Locarno 


6 





3 


60 


Magadino 


6 





3 


60 



lire. c. 
Boatage to or from Sesto Ca- 
lende, Magadino, 'Locarno, 
Canobio, Canero, Intra, Bel- 
girate, Arona 

— Brissago, Ascona, Pallanza 

— Stresa 

— Baveno and Laveno . 

— Luino 

Carriages and horses can only be 
taken on board at Sesto Calende, 
Arona, and Magadino. Charged as 
follows : 






10 





20 





30 





60 


1 






Berlin or landau 
Caleche .... 
Carriage with two wheels 
Horses, each . ' . 



frs. 

30 

24 

12 



The above charges include em- 
barking and landing. 

The steamers start from Maga- 
dino every morning at seven o'clock ; 
pass the islands about nine ; reach 
Sesto at twelve, return from Sesto 
at one, and reach Magadino about 
six ; where conveyances are in wait- 
ing to convey travellers to Belli n- 
zona. — Described in Route 4. 

LAGO MAGGIORE. 

The Lago Maggiore, or, as it was 
anciently called, the Yerbanus^ rises 
two hundred and ten metres above 
the level of the sea. Its depth, ac- 



436 NORTHERN ITALY.— ROUTE 84. LAGO MAGGIORE. ISOLA BELLA. 



cording to the best calculation, is 
computed as equal to the height of 
the surrounding mountains. At the 
northern extremity, not very far 
from Locarno, it receives the river 
Ticino, which, pouring from the 
neighbourhood of Mont St. Gothard 
like a cascade over the remains of 
ancient avalanches, waters the 
valley of Giomico, and issues from 
the lake at Sesto Calende ; and, 
after several transitions, discharges 
itself into the Po, about a league 
below Pavia. 

The length of this lake from 
Locarno to Sesto measures more 
than fifty-two miles ; and its greatest 
width, nearly eight. It is bordered 
by three different states : viz., from 
Sesto to Pieno, by the kingdom of 
Lombardy ; from the latter place to 
Brissago, its borders belong to Swit- 
zerland ; and all that territory which 
stretches itself from Brissago to the 
western bank of the river Ticino, 
forms a part of the Sardinian domi- 
nions. The banks are adorned by 
forest trees and vineyards, inter- 
spersed with hamlets, enriched with 
villas and other edifices remarkable 
for the variety and elegance of their 
construction ; and these are rendered 
still gayer by terraces built one 
above another, embellished with 
luxuriant flowers, shrubs, and all the 
genus of exotics. Gentle declivities 
of ever varied hues are contrasted by 
the view of mountains rising abruptly 
from the surface of the lake, and 
presenting their almost perpendicular 
sides shagged with sombre trees. 
The view from Laveno offers one of 
those views which words cannot 
pi^rtray, and imagination itself can 
scarcely conceive ; majestic moun- 
tains lifting their bare fronts one 
above another, while Mont Rosa, 
soaring adove all, seems to meet the 
heaves. By degrees are seen those 
resplendent pinnacles of the glaciers 
dazzling the sight, as if a mountain 
of brilliants were sparkling in the 
rays of the sun ; and while hills and 



dales, villages and islands issue forth 
from the light mist of morning, the 
sea-like expanse of the waves serves 
as the reflecting mirror of this grand 
panorama. 

The neighbouring mountains are 
remarkable for their iron, copper, 
and lead mines, and quarries. 

ISOLE BORROMEE. 

These islands, the chief ornament 
of the lake, are four in number, 
namely: Isola Bella, Isola Madre, 
Isola Superiore or de' Pescatori, 
Isola di St. Giovanni or Isolino. 
The two former only are worthy of 
notice. 

Isola Bella is built upon terraces, 
one above the other, ornamented 
with flowers, fountains, and forest 
trees, and adorned by a noble 
palace, partly in ruins, and partly 
modernized. 

In the year 1671 this island was 
but a steep and barren rock. Count 
Yit. Borromeo covered it with beau- 
tiful gardens and sumptuous edifices, 
that were, no doubt, " a realization 
of fairy land," a perfect scene of 
enchantment. 

The visitor ascends a succession 
of terraces, constructed on vaults, 
one above the other, to the height 
of thirty-two metres above the sur- 
face of the lake ; so that the eastern 
side of the island offers the aspect 
of a pyramid. On the uppermost 
tier is a colossal unicorn, the prin- 
cipal part of thejarmorial bearings of 
the Borromean family. The northern 
side of the island is occupied by the 
palace, an inn, where lodgings and 
refreshments may be had, and some 
dwellings of fishermen. The apart- 
ments of the palace, fitted up in the 
most sumptuous style, display a 
collection of paintings by eminent 
artists. 

Descending to the basement story 
of the palace, the visitor is led 
through a labyrinth of apartments, 



PIEDMONT. — ROUTE 84. ISOLA MADKE. 



whose -walls resemble the rough 
hewn vaults of a subterraneous 
excavation, ornamented with sheU- 
work. These vaults, which, as a 
poet said, seem to be the favourite 
dwelling of the nymph of the lake, 
and where refreshing fountains add 
to their delightful coolness in the 
very midst of summer, are the re- 
pository of some fine pieces of 
superior modern sculpture. In the 
chapel of the palace is a well-ex- 
ecuted marble bust of St Charles, 
that hero of the Cathohc church, 
who voluntarily "stood between 
the living and the dead " in fervent 
supplication that the " plague 
might be stayed," and who yielded 
up fortune and health to mitigate 
the sufferings of Ms fellow creatures. 

Every step brings one in contact 
with the most extraordinary proofs 
of the vegetative strength which 
resides in it. A Weymouth pine, 
which had been planted as a mere 
stick not many years ago, is now 
become a thick timber with widely 
branching arms. Many of the 
laurel and bay trees are of great 
size. The gardener showed us one, 
which he quaintly called " the 
father of aU laurels :" its trunk 
measures ten feet in circumference, 
and the tree is nearly 100 feet in 
height. The word hattaglia was 
deeply graven on its bark by the 
Emperor Napoleon with his pen- 
knife a few days previous to the 
battle of Marengo ; it is now, in 
1844, nearly obliterated. 

This island contains not merely 
an orangery, but an orange grove. 
So many noble trees, bearing flowers 
and fruit at the same time and in 
all the various stages of blossoming 
and ripening, proved a sight of no 
ordinary interest. Two of them, 
which are absolutely timber-like, 
and said to be 170 years old, have 
attained to their present size and 
age in only eighteen inches depth 
of mould. Together with the oranges 
are planted citrons, the fruit of 
some of which are of uncommon 



dimensions. They form a double 
alley on one of the southern terraces, 
where they thrive in a perfectly 
exposed state through the greater 
part of the year. In the middle of 
winter they are covered over with 
a building of planks, which is re- 
gularly removed at the first approacii 
of spring. 

In the gardens and parterres we 
everywhere found the rose, the jas- 
mine, and the myrtle uniting their 
fragrance ; the grape, the ohve, the 
peach, the pomegranate, the fig, 
combining their tributary stores. 
We were shown an Agavefilamentosa -, 
this curious plant flowers only once 
in fifty years. The Hortensia motu- 
hil'ts flourishes here in a wonderful 
manner, forming, by the fulness 
of its growth, the fresh green of its 
leaves, and the dehcacy of it* 
colom's, a complete plantation of 
mingled brilliancy and elegance. A 
long gallery perforated in the rock, 
having a range of arcades, overlooks 
the lake and its magnificent borders. 

The ranunculus of Isola Bella is 
in high estimation among the con- 
tinental florists. Erom the stock 
grown there several crowned heads 
have their gardens supplied with 
roots of this plant, of which there 
are at least fifty varieties. Under 
the shade of lofty cypresses and 
pines, the beautiful Hydrangea Hor- 
tensis displays that plenitude of 
vigour, which it would assm'edly 
lose if its charms were completely 
unveiled to the sun. 

Isola Madre, so called from its 
being the largest of the four islands, 
emerges from the waves Uke a beau- 
tiful chaplet of sweet flowers and 
rich verdure. On the stony founda- 
tion of this island, art and per- 
severance have accomplished the 
formation of a soil, which boasts in 
perfection the triple gifts of Pan, 
Elora, and Pomona. This island 
has a population of some hundreds 
— of pheasants. 

By means of a flight of steps 
he^vQ in the rock, the traveller 



438 NORTHERK ITALY. — -feOtTiE 84. LAGK) MACJGIORE. LAVENO. 



asceiids to a garden, where the 
aloe, orange, and citron grow each 
in their natural state as standards 
Or as espaliers. On the south side 
this island is adorned with several 
terraces, ornamented with vases 
containing the most fragrant and 
delicate flowers. It is also canopied 
with old laurels, yews, piaes, and 
Cypresses, spreading their branches 
ever green : and when the dismal 
season of winter covers all the sur- 
I'ounding mountains with snow, 
this island presents the image of an 
everlasting spring. 

Among other fine timber trees 
we observed the evergreen or live 
oak ( Quercus ilex), an Egyptian 
cypress, ninety feet high, and some 
specimens of the Scotch fir (JPinus 
sylvestris), one of them eight feet in 
circumference. In the shrubberies 
are some beautiful lilac-tinted and 
blue Hortensias, and a splendid show 
of the rose laurel {Nerium oleander), 
exhibiting many different colours 
and qualities. 

A large building of very simple 
construction, partly in ruius, is 
situated on the highest platform. 
From this mansion the prospect is 
picturesque beyond conception. 
The sea-like expanse of waters, 
bounded on every side at a greater 
or less distance by hiUs of diversified 
form and altitude ; the viUages 
romantically situated, and shrouded 
by wooded eminences ; the white 
cottages, with tapering steeples of 
churches breaking the dark masses 
of loftier mountains ; the country 
seats, gardens, and vineyards over- 
spreading the greatest part of the 
enchanting ridges, and the spark- 
ling tops of the Simplon in the dis- 
tance, form a combination of what 
may be properly termed lovely, 
interesting, and sublime. 

PALLANZA. INTRA. 

Pallanza (no good inns) is a gay 
little country town, situated on the 
water's edge, at the base of a lofty 
mountain remarkable for the ridi 



verdure of its gentle sloping Sides. 
Some precious relics of Roman 
antiquity, and, among the rest, a 
beautiful basso-relievo upon the 
outside wall of the church of St 
Stephano, are objects deserving 
inspection. The church of the 
Madonna di Campagne, without 
the town, is decorated with fresco 
paintings of great merit. At a 
short distance from Pallanza is 
the village of Sana, adorned with 
fine houses. The road leading from 
Pallanza to Intra crosses a very 
delightful country. The latter 
place is become very considerable- 
both for its manufactories and 
commerce. It is believed by some 
that this burgh derives its name of 
Intra from being situated between 
two rivers. This place, in point 
of traffic, industry, and activity, is 
to the Lago Maggiore what Genoa 
is to the Mediterranean. Near 
Intra is the villa Ballabio, built 
much like a tower of the middle age. 
At Selasca, the torrent that 
lashes itself down the mountain 
has formed several fanciful grot- 
toes, and greets the eye of the 
stranger with its beautiful cascades. 

LAVENO. 

On the opposite coast of this 
great inland sea is Laveno, a con- 
siderable village, situated at the 
foot of the towering acclivity of 
Mont Beuscer, where, after wind- 
ing along for some miles at the 
base of a lofty ridge of rocks, ter- 
minates the road leading from 
Varese to this place. It is gene- 
rally believed that Laveno was 
founded by a Roman colony, com- 
commanded by Labienus 

The rock of Caldiero, rising in a 
pyramidical form, and crowned by 
the ruins of an ancient castle, 
strikes the eye from its melan- 
choly wildness, and reminds the 
traveller of the dreadful martyr- 
dom of St Arioldo, who had under- 
taken to preach in a most deter- 
mined and violent manner against 



PIEDMONT. — ROUTE 84. LAGO MAGGIORE. LUINO. STRESA. 439 



the profligate, abandoned life of the 
priests of his age. 

Near Caldiero is Porto, where the 
traveller should visit the remarkable 
glass house of Messrs. Minetti. 
From Porto he should proceed to 
Germignaga, crossing a bridge built 
over the torrent Tresa ; and from 
thence to Lumo, by a beautiful 
avenue. Luino is a populous burgh, 
and famous as the birthplace of the 
celebrated painter Bernardino Luino, 
whose frescoes are so highly es- 
teemed, and carefully preserved. 

Luino ^ seen at a distance on the 
lake, presents itself to advantage 
in the grand landscape ; its features 
are considerably heightened by its 
noble avenue, which is canopied, to 
a certain distance, by a double row 
of elms and old gigantic pines. 
Behind these trees, embosomed in 
their foliage, stands the majestic 
palace Crivelli, built after the de- 
sign of Felice Soave. 

On the other side of the village, 
towards the north, a beautiful vine 
bower, supported by stone pillars, 
spreads itself in a long uninterrupted 
line ; but what enhances the gran- 
deur of the scene is a magnificent 
temple, supported by sixteen Doric 
columns of red granite, at the ex- 
tremity of the plantation. North of 
Luino, elevated mountains, arrayed 
in all their glory and sublimity, 
seem to confine the lake within 
narrow bounds. Here a fine road, 
bordering the lake, leads to Mac- 
cagno, a village remarkable for its 
having been the momentary resi- 
dence of the imperial court of Otho 
I. The torrent Jona divides this 
village into two parts. From thence 
the road passes successively by the 
villages of Pino, Zena, St. Abbondio, 
St. Nazaro, and Vira, till it reaches 
Magadino. The range of mountains 
from Maccagno to Magadino pre- 
sents stern features. Only here and 
there the fruits of agricultural labour 
are visible, and these at so great a 



height, that, on lifting the eye 
towards those little farms in the air, 
one is puzzled to imagine by what 
path the peasants could get there 
to cultivate a few patches of pro- 
ductive soil. 

Stresa. — The villa Bolongari, 
which, for a long time, was noted 
as the real seat of hospitality, and 
which has still a great claim to the 
renown it formerly enjoyed, is the 
chief ornament of the place. Stresa 
is reckoned by the painters one of 
the finest points from whence a ge- 
neral survey of the lake may be 
taken. Towns, villages, castles, 
country seats, and islands, opening 
to view in every direction, enhance 
the amphitheatrical pride of the 
scene. Some of these diversifying 
objects appear to rise out of the 
waters, others are embosomed in 
foliage, or show themselves on the 
levels of verdant terraces, amidst 
hilly forests and pastures. From a 
height commanding Stresa was 
sketched the following panorama : — 
A vast amphitheatre of forests 
and vines, with hamlets here and 
there just opening to the view from 
amidst their sylvan graces, and 
mountains arrayed in all the glory 
of their sublime combination, dis- 
play themselves to the enchanted 
eyes of the beholder. At his feet 
lies Stresa, with the beautiful villa 
Bolongari, and the new church, 
built after the plan of Zanoja. On 
his left, the shore makes a bend, 
and Baveno, with its shattered rocks, 
appears in view. From the sides of 
these cliffs, enormous fragments of 
rock, blasted by the force of gun- 
powder, come thundering from a 
tremendous height. Further on he 
sees Mont Orfano raising its rugged, 
barren, melancholy sides, as if to 
lock in the Verbanus; while at its 
foot rolls the wide and rapid current 
of the Toce, with the stream pro- 
ceeding from the Margozzolo, as if 
to pay their tribute to a lake adorned 



440 NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 84. ARONA. SESTO CALENDE. 



with all the beautiful reflections of 
mingled light and shadow. Then 
he gazes on the snow- clad pinnacles 
of. the Simplon, to point one out from 
afar the way to those regions of cold 
sublimity. Turning from left to 
right, he sees the long ridge of lofty 
mountains which divide the Val- 
Vegezza from the Lago Maggiore, 
while softer and gentler declivities 
break the distance, and descend to 
the very " kiss of the waters," where 
they appear studded with numerous 
villages. Pallanza, Intra, (the queen 
of the lake,) and Laveno, here re- 
veal themselves through the pure 
ether with astonishing clearness. 
The background of this immense 
picture is formed by the Alps of the 
Italian Helvetia, whose countless 
pinnacles, glittering in the rays 
of the sun, rise with unspeakable 
majesty. 

ARONA. 

Hotels. Poste, very comfortable 
and reasonable ; the best apartments 
overlook the lake, commanding beau- 
tiful views. H. de Italy, new, and 
handsomely furnished. 

Arona is a little town, pleasantly 
situated on the borders of the lake, 
much devoted to commerce, and 
possessing a tolerable harbour. It 
is the birthplace of St. Charles, and 
there are still to be seen the walls 
of the room in which this undaunted 
champion of the Roman Church 
first opened his eyes to the light of 
day. The tourist, whatever his 
creed may be, cannot help paying 
a tribute of reverence and affection 
to the hero who performed so many 
real acts of charity, humanity, and 
benevolence. The principal church 
is adorned with beautiful paintings 
by Gaudenzio Ferrari (the Lom- 
bard Eaphael), by Morazzone Nu- 
volone, and Appiani. The high 
altar is decorated with a fine basso- 
relievo. 

On the summit of the hill, one 
English mile before reaching Arona, 



on the Baveno side, stands the cele- 
brated colossean statue of St. Charles 
Borromeo, executed by Siro Zanelli 
and Bernardo Falconi. The head, 
hands, and feet of this gigantic sta- 
tue are cast in bronze ; all the rest 
is of copper. A pyramid of stones 
is raised in the inside, and strength- 
ened with iron bars, to protect this 
magnificent work against the im- 
petuosity of the winds. It is by 
climbing up these bars that the tra- 
veller can ascend to the top and 
enter the head. All the parts of 
this statue have such perfect pro- 
portions, and harmonize so well with 
the whole, that on a first glance the 
beholder is not aware of its immense 
size. It measures a hundred and 
eight feet in height, reckoning the 
pedestal. This is one of the largest 
statues in Italy, and so enormous 
are its dimensions, that the head 
alone will contain four persons 
seated round a table, while another 
may sit in the nose. St. Charles is 
represented as giving his benediction, 
with one hand, to his birthplace, and 
holding a book in the other. This 
statue was erected in 1697, at the 
expense of the inhabitants of the 
neighbouring country, and by the 
Borromean family. 

SESTO CALENDE. 

Inns — none worthy the name. 
The Posie, at the water's edge, is 
the best, and bad enough it is. 

This being the frontier town of 
Lombard y, the luggage of travellers 
arriving by steamer is examined, but 
not very rigidly, and passports are 
taken away, examined by the police, 
and, if e7i regie, i.e. having the Aus- 
trian minister's signature, receive 
the vise of the police ; but if not, 
you may re-embark for Switzerland, 
or Turin, to get that which is not 
my fault if you have neglected. 

The diligence for Milan starts 
soon after the arrival of the steamer, 
so that on landing proceed at once 



AUSTRIA. -ROUTE 85-86. SESTO CALENDE TO MILAN'. 



441 



to the office and secure your place ; 
the fare is 6|-frs. ; return carriages, 
to hold four or five persons, may 
be met with for 20 frs. ; post it if 
you have your own carriage, but if 
not, have it thoroughly understood 
that the carriage you hire is to be 
continued to Milan, or you may be 
stopped half way by the connivance 
of the innkeeper and postilion. 

This actually occurred to a family 
on the day I travelled from Sesto 
to Milan, the landlord of the inn at 
Legnanello refusing to supply a 
carriage, and the postilion refusing 
to allow that which brought them 
from Sesto to proceed further. 

ROUTE 85. 

SESTO CELENDE TO MILAN. 

The road from Sesto to Milan is 
flat, stale, and uninteresting, trees 
lining the road nearly the entire 
way ; and such is the dread of the 
government of ambushed banditti 
on this road, that relays of gens- 
darmes accompany the public con- 
veyances the entire way, and as if 
to encourage an attack, the pos- 
tilions jog on at a miserable rate, the 
distance being only four and a half 
postes (thirty-six miles ), occupying 
between six and seven hours. 

Postes. 

Gallarate - - - - 1? 

Legnanello - - - - 1 

... - . 1 



Rho 
Milan 



U 



Soma, a village celebrated as the 
battle field between Scipio and 
Hannibal. Here stands the cele- 
brated cypress tree, 120 feet high. 

Gallarate, — The immense tract 
of waste land in the neighbourhood 
of this town is used for military 
evolutions. 

Rho, a considerable burgh, near 
which is seen a church of an 
imposing appearance, dedicated to 
the Virgin. The design of this edi- 
fice is composed of a single nave and 
surmounted by a majestic cupola. 



Cascina del Pero. — 'This place is 
thinly inhabited, owing to the un- 
wholesome exhalations proceeding 
from the rice marshes. 

A few miles from Milan is the 
suppressed Certosa di Garignano, 
founded by Giovanni Visconti, 
archbishop and lord of Milan. 

The approach to Milan is ren- 
dered interesting by the view of 
the triumphal arch, which termi- 
nates the grand Simplon road. By 
a lateral arch enter Milan. 



ROUTE 86. 

LAGO MAGGIOKE TO LAGO COMO 
BY VARESE. 

Those who intend to leave Italy 
either by the Tyrol or by France, 
should not neglect visiting the lake 
of Como by taking the above 
route. A boat may be engaged to 
visit the islands, and from thence 
toLaveno, for 5 frs. each man. At 
Laveno there is a tolerable inn, 
where travellers may lodge com- 
fortably if too late to proceed to 
Varese or Como the same day. A 
carriage may be hired here to take 
four persons to Como in six or 
seven hours, for 20 frs., stopping an 
hour or so at Varese, where the 
delightful gardens with which the 
environs abound should be visited. 
The distance from Laveno to 
Varese is fourteen miles, and from 
Varese to Como two postes, or 
sixteen miles — the country abound- 
ing with beautiful scenery, and 
thickly planted with walnut, mul- 
berry, and fig trees ; on the right 
may be seen the picturesque lake 
of Varese. 

VARESE. 

Inns, the Poste and Angel, neither 
very good The church here, al- 
though not large, contains two 
organs and two pulpits, the fronts 
of which are beautifully carved. 



442 



NORTHERN ITALY.— ROUTE 86. COMO. 



The road from Varese to Como 
is really beautiful, and crosses a 
cultivated and populous country. 
One sees the mulberry and the 
olive planted everywhere, and bear- 
ing fruit in abundance. The vil- 
lages spread along the road are 
Malnate, Binago, Solbiate, Olgiate, 
Lucino, and Musino. In many 
places the vines are beautifully 
trained on posts and twigs, and 
supported high above ground. 
About midway between Como and 
Varese we come in view of a rich 
and extensive plain, bounded on 
either hand by hills, which, running 
nearly parallel with each other, 
ultimately join the ridges that 
encompass the borders of the lake 
of Como, behind which rises a 
lofty and more craggy chain ; 
whilst, to complete a background 
of inconceivable magnificence, the 
snowy summits of the Alps soar 
above all. 



COMO. 

Inns, the Angel, pleasantly situated 
on the edge of the lake ; charges : 
beds, 2 and 3 frs. ; breakfast, tea 
or coffee, 1^ frs. ; with eggs or meat, 
2 frs. ; dinners served at three, 4 or 
5 frs. a head. ' Galignani's Messen- 
ger ' taken in. 

The Crawn, situated in the en- 
virons, belonging to the same pro- 
prietor (Mons Sala), is on the same 
scale, and more suitable for travel- 
lers merely passing en route to 
the Alps or Milan. 

Como, the capital of a province 
bearing the same name, contains 
nearly 17,000 inhabitants. It is 
seated on the border of the lake, 
and presents itself to great advan- 
tage, from whatever point the view 
is taken. This ancient city imfolds 
the numberless charms of its roman- 
tic situation to the eyes of the tra- 
veller, whether he approaches it 
from the sublime region of Switzer- 
land, or by the hills of Brianza. 



Numerous hamlets, with their lofty 
steeples, adorn the rising grounds 
to a considerable elevation, the lake 
forming a kind of basin surrounded 
by mountainous ridges, and its 
borders studded with beautiful 
villas. 

The harbour presents a lively 
and bustling scene in the numerous 
groups of harcajuoli plying for em- 
ployment on their element, thfe 
lake. 

The city is commanded by a 
conical hill, on whose highest sum- 
mit are the scattered ruins of the 
ancient castle, a lofty square 
turret still crowning the top, and 
forming a prominent object in the 
landscape. From the walls of this 
mountain fortress was suspended a 
cage, in which, in 1277, exposed to 
all the inclemency of the stormy 
region, was imprisoned and perished 
the famous feudal chief, Napoleon 
Torriani. Nearly at the foot of the 
hill are the picturesque gardens and 
delightful villa of Don Carlo Ve- 
nini. 

Among the edifices most entitled 
to notice, the Duomo alone claims 
attention. The foundation of this 
fabric was laid in the year 1396, 
but it only rose to completion dur- 
ing the last century. It is com- 
posed of white marble, and abounds 
in ornamental details, which are 
held in high estimation. The front 
and the arcades adjoining it present 
an assemblage of round and pointed 
architecture, in which, as they were 
raised during the slow progress of 
many succeeding generations, one 
recognizes neither the Grecian, Go- 
thic, nor Saracenic style, but a 
" strange mixture, or, at best, a 
succession of the three difierent 
styles." The great western en- 
trance, formed through a wall of 
remarkable thickness, is lined on 
each side by a row of columns with 
foliaged capitals, from which rises 
a circular arch : and beneath a simi- 
lar arch is, on each side, a smaller 



AUSTRIA.— ROUTE 86. ENVIROKS OF COMO. 



443 



door, with a long lancet-window 
over it. Among the multitude of 
statues which decorate the outside 
of this church there are two repre- 
senting the Plinys, uncle and ne- 
phew. In the interior of this edi- 
fice, the objects really deserving the 
traveller's attention are the Baptis- 
tery, generally ascribed to Braman- 
te d'lJrbino ; some paintings by 
Gaudenzio Ferrari and Bernardino 
Luino; and the monument raised to 
Benedetto Giovio, the illustrious 
historian of Como, his native town. 
A great number of statues also 
adorn the inside of the temple, some 
of which are entitled to notice ; but 
the objects that highly recommend 
themselves are the bassi-relievi of 
the pillars supporting the organ, 
and the arabesques, foliages, ani- 
mals, and allegorical groups over 
the side- doors of the cathedral. 
They exhibit devices of a lightness 
and polish fitter to be worked in 
gold and silver than in stone. 

In the suburbs are silk and cloth 
manufactories, and the work pro- 
duced is exquisite, both in point of 
texture and colour. These manu- 
factures form a considerable branch 
of the commerce of the town and its 
environs. 

A steamer traverses the lake of 
Como every day, afibrding an op- 
portunity of visiting the beautiful 
scenery which abounds on its 
shores, the favourite residence of 
the Milanese nobility ; this lake is 
between forty and fifty miles in 
length, and takes the steamer about 
four hours each way without stop- 
pages. Families travelling in their 
own carriages coming from Switzer- 
land over the Splugen can embark 
them at Colico, where a pier has 
been erected for the purpose. 

The steamer leaves Como at half- 
past seven in the morning; Co- 
lico in the forenoon, about ten; 
and arrives at Como to meet the 
diligence to Milan, which leaves at 
three o'clock. 



FARES FROM COMO TO COLTCO, 

and vice versa. 





zwansigers. c^s 


Cabin and after deck 


3 


Fore deck 


1 25 


A carriage 


- 25 


Acaleche - - - 


- 20 


Horses, each - 


5 



ENVIRONS OF COMO. 

Borgo Vico may be properly 
called an uninterrupted succession 
of palaces and villas. Pavilions and 
casinos of light and elegant con- 
struction display themselves on the 
lovely borders. Their front and 
terraces of white stone and stucco, 
when glittering in the rays of a 
brilliant sun, are charmingly con- 
trasted with the deeply tinted foli- 
age in which they are embosomed. 
The apartments of the villa Odes- 
calchi Eaimondi are no less remark- 
able for their sumptuousness than 
for their loftniess and amplitude. 
The decorations are in a gorgeous 
style, and the whole is enriched 
with a variety of carving, gilding, 
painting, and stucco work. This 
villa, viewed from the lake, has a 
truly regal appearance. The villa 
La Gallia is not less worthy the tra- 
veller's attention. It was built by 
by a nephew to the celebrated 
Cardinal Ptolemy GaUio, who from 
the humble state of a fisherman 
rose to this princely rank in the 
church. It was here that Paul 
Giovio had made a collection of 
many precious rarities, such as 
antiques, books, paintings, but 
chiefly of a great number of por- 
traits of the most illustrious cha- 
racters of his day. Villa Villani 
is seated on the very edge of the 
lake. 

LAKE OF COMO — WESTERN OR LEFT 
BANK. 

Strada Regina — GrumeEo —La 

Zuccotto — La Tavernola — Villa JVuO' 

va — Villa L.ondonio — Cernohbio — - 

ViUa d' Este. 

The beautiful road bordering the 



444 



NOKTHEEN ITALY. — ROUTE 86. LAKE OF COMO. 



lake on the western side to the 
Tre Pievi Superiori, leads first to 
Grumello, seated on a little emi- 
nence. 

At a short distance from the last- 
mentioned place is the Zuccotta 
belonging to Professor Configliac- 
chi, who graced it with the most 
exquisite taste, and beautified its 
gardens with all the luxuriant pomp 
of vegetation. 

On that point of land, through 
which a matchless vista of the sub- 
lime region, " where Alps on Alps 
arise," opens upon the beholder, 
who happens to contemplate the 
enchanting picture before him from 
the sieam-boat, stands the Taver- 
nola, a pleasant retreat belonging 
to Messrs Prad. A little farther 
on is the villa Nuova, where Gene- 
ral Pino came to close, in the bosom 
of peace and solitude, his warlike 
and somewhat stormy career. 

At villa Londonio is a monu- 
ment erected to the memory of the 
prince of the Italian poets, Monti. 

Above Cernobbio the Bisbino* 
rears its front, crowned with a sanc- 
tuary; next is the villa d'Este. 
Before arriving at the villa d'Este 
are seen the remains of a triumphal 
arch fast mouldering to decay. 

The villa d'Este is built on the 
borders of the lake, just where it 
makes a very wide sweep. Car- 
dinal Gallio laid the foundation of 
this mansion, which has since been 
considerably embellished by the 
late Countess Calderara Pino. The 
small buildings and the uppermost 
points of closely impending rocks , 
modelled into a group of turrets 
and embattled walls, look like as 
many fortifications. They were 
erected by order of the above-men- 



* This inountain, which is very high and 
of a conical form, is for the Comaschi a 
sort of weathercock; and when they see its 
tops enveloped in dark clouds, they say : 

" Quando il Bisbino mette il cappello, 
"Vattene a casa, prendi ii mantello." 



tioned lady for the purpose of giv- 
ing a military spectacle to her 
husband, General Pino, on his re- 
turn from the Spanish war. The 
Princess Caroline of Wales after- 
wards purchased this villa, wherein 
she resided for some time, and 
adorned it with pomp and magnifi- 
cence. Among other improvements 
she caused a small but very elegant 
theatre to be constructed in one of 
its wide apartments. At the bot- 
tom of the gardens, towards Pizzo, 
is a group of houses joined together 
so as to form a kind of village, 
destined for the habitations of the 
domestics. The gardens and plea- 
sure grounds are very extensive, 
and being laid out on an eminence, 
they command some uncommonly 
fine views in the direction of the 
lake. The horticultural plan of 
these gardens, together with the 
embellishments of statues and foun- 
tains, are worthy of notice. An 
extensive parterre bordered on each 
side with stone basins, into which 
falls a very pretty cascade from 
the impending hill, adds to the 
general eflfect: and a wide subter- 
ranean grotto, very skilfully ex- 
cavated through the solid rock, has 
much in itself to recommend it. 
The facade of the palace has a 
magnificent appearance as you ap- 
proach it from the lake. 

The historical associations of this 
place are so strong, and the trans- 
actions personally and locally con- 
nected with it so recent, that few 
English travellers omit to visit the 
villa d'Este. Only a few years 
past, time and negligence seemed 
on the point of accomplishing the 
ruin of this princely abode. The 
lofty halls no longer responded to 
the voice of mirth and music, nor 
to the tread of knights and dames ; 
the sound of revelry no longer 
awakened its echoes, and the green- 
ish tint of decay was already over- 
spreading the walls. Much, how- 
ever, has been done of late to res- 



AUSTEIA.-^EOUTE 86. LAKE OF COMO - EASTERN BANK. 



445 



cue this beautiful villa from its 
rapid decay; and its present pro- 
prietor. Baron Ciani, has restored 
itj if not to its former magnificence, 
at least to a degree of decorum. 

EASTERN OB RIGHT BANK. 

Villrx Cornaggia — Geno — Blevio — 
ViUa Artaria — Villa Belvedere — 
— ViUaPasta — Villa Tanzi — Per- 
lasca — Torno. 

The villa Cornaggia now occu- 
pies the very spot whereon a ceme- 
tery formerly stood. A beautiful 
road, planted with a variety of 
trees, leads from a mimic roadstead, 
cut in the solid rock, to the elegant 
gurdens and casino,— the abode of 
mirth and festivity. 

A deeply-indented line of rocks, 
whose craggy masses occasionally 
unfold themselves in various shapes 
and hues through the rich covering 
of thick foliage, overhangs the lake, 
which at this point forms a kind of 
basin surrounded and shut in by 
mountainous ridges. These hills, 
some of which are exceedingly 
steep, have generally a woody and 
verdant aspect, except where the 
naked rock breaks through the soil 
in huge and rugged masses. In the 
age of romance, spots such as these 
would have been selected by the 
feudal lords for their inaccessible 
retreats. A pleasing effect is pro- 
duced by the various groups of cot- 
tages perched on rocks, whose sides 
exhibit their vegetative strength 
and the power of cultivation amidst 
an appalling ruggedness. Husband- 
ry is here carried up to the very 
brow of impending mountains by 
means of terraces, and in defiance 
of the most difficult ascent: and 
the whole is enlivened by rivulets 
and cascades pouring down their 
furrowed sides. 

Look at those numerous hamlets ! 
They are ycleped the seven towns 
of Blevio, A little farther on is the 
villa Belvedere, before reaching 



which is the new villa lately built 
by Mdlle Taglioni. It is charming- 
ly situated on the margin of the 
lake, and has a background of 
pretty cottages. The lower range 
of grounds is a continued parterre, 
and the beautiful walks, canopied 
over with trees transplanted from a 
distant soil, afford an agreeable 
shade " amid the blaze of noon.' 

The next villa is the delightful 
retreat of that celebrated singer, 
Madame Pasta. 

The architecture of the villa 
Tanzi, as well as that of its acces- 
sories, appears designed to increase 
the traveller's pleasurable surprise. 
Lady Morgan, speaking of the fan- 
tastical taste pervading all over 
this sojourn of delights, says: "The 
rocks of the villa Tanzi, naturally 
picturesque and wildly rural, are 
covered with red-brick arcades ; 
forts and citadels with cannons, 
ceUs for hermits, grottoes for mon- 
sters, monuments to mistresses who 
perhaps never lived, and cenotaphs 
to friends who are in no haste to 
fill them." Here is seen a giant 
jessamine tree, which will remind 
the traveller of the flowery bower 
so well described by Milton. Emerg- 
ing from these artificial shades, and 
proceeding through paths canopied 
over with fine laurel trees and 
other plants, to the top of a mock 
fortress, a most glorious view opens 
itself. 

Very few houses now remain of 
what still retains the name of Per- 
lasca. It was formerly a strong 
hold, and the theatre of intestine 
discords excited by its factious 
burghers. 

The romantic village of Torno, 
situated on a superb locality, and 
apparently blocking up any further 
passage, was once a flourishing 
burgh, and vied with the town itself 
in point of commerce; but when 
civil war, with all its train of hor^ 
rors, deluged almost every town 
with blood, this burgh was subjected 



446 



NORTHERN ITAX,Y. — ROLTE 87. PASS OF ST GOTHARD. 



to every extreme of outrage and 
suffering. 

The village is built upon terraces. 
Here the thriving lemon plant owns 
the genial soil; and the dark ver- 
dure of the pine trees, crowning the 
promontory, is gracefully contrasted 
by the whiteness of the houses, 
which display themselves in the 
form of an amphitheatre. 

N.B. This part of the lake is 
generally the boundary of an excur- 
sion in a row-boat, occupying, with 
two rowers, about two hours and a 
half; the expense is about five 
francs, with a trifle as buona mano. 
For a more detailed description of 
the lakes, particularly from this 
point to Colico, I beg to refer the 
reader to a very well written work 
by Signor Mazzoni. 

ROUTE 87. 

LUCERNE TO BELUNZONA B.T THE 

ST GOTHARD. 

By steamer to Fleulen. Distance 
from Fleulen fifteen postes; about 
seventy-five English miles. 

The high road from Altorf to 
Bellinzona, a distance of twenty- 
two leagues and a half, is identical 
with that leading from the former 
place to St Gothard, so far as that 
mountain. — Described in Central 
Europe. 

Andermatt. — Inn, Three Kings. 
Here commences the second accli- 
vity of the road. It traverses the 
village of Hopital, and in three 
hours attains the greatest elevation, 
a plain of granite surrounded by 
rocks of a grotesque form. Here 
was formerly a hospice inhabited by 
Capuchins, who supplied travellers 
with necessaries ; but the calamities 
of war, and the destruction of the 
ancient hospital, have put an end 
to this benevolent institution. On 
the most elevated part of the route, 
which travellers have denominated 
the " Master- Altar of the Temple 
of Nature," the snow does not en- 



tirely disappear before July, and 
begins to accumulate anew in Au- 
gust. In the canton of the Tessin 
are four small lakes, the largest of 
which is called the Lago di Luzen- 
dro. Two large rivers descend from 
the St Gothard: the Keuss, which 
directs its course towards the north ; 
and the Tessin, or Ticino, whjch 
flows towards the south. From the 
summit to Airolo is a distance of 
about two leagues. 

Arioh (Inn, Three Kings Pbst 
house), a large parochial village at 
the entrance of the Val Levantina, 
a vaUey which extends nearly ten 
leagues, and is divided into three 
parts : the Upper, Middle, and 
Lower. Here the traveller becomes 
first introduced to the language and 
manners of Italy. Near Airolo the 
two branches of the Tessin unite ; 
whereof the one has its source on 
the Mont St Gothard, as already 
mentioned, while the other descends 
from the Val Bedretto. On the 
south of the village is an old Louit 
bardic tower of King Desiderius, 
erected in the eight century, which 
stands above the defile of Stavedro. 

After traversing several villages 
the road reaches that of Dazio. 
which is commanded by the moun- 
tain Piotino. From this village it 
descends for a quarter of an hour 
through a frightful gorge, along a 
fine cascade of the Tessin. The 
next important village is Faido, op- 
posite to which there is another 
handsome fall of water. Faido is* 
distant three leagues and a half 
from Airolo. Two leagues further is 

Giornico, a large burgh at the en-!- 
trance of the lower Val Levantina. 
Near the bridge are some remains 
of an old castle, supposed to have 
belonged to the ancient Gauls. On 
the east are the ruins of a tower 
constructed in 940, and several 
caves. This place is remarkable 
for a battle fought in 1478 between 
the Swiss Confederates and the 
Milanese, wherein the latter were 



AUSTRIA. — ROUTE 87. BMLLINZONA. 



447 



defeated. The environs abound with 
chestnut trees, cascades, and ancient 
buildings, such as the churches of 
St Mcolas and Santa Maria di Cas- 
tello. 

Near Binsen, the Blegno, after 
descending the valley of the same 
name, joins the Tessin. A little 
beyond their junction the road is 
united to that of the Bernardino, 
with which it continues identical 
during the remainder of the route 
to BeUinzona. 

BELLlNZOHfA. 

Inns, L'Ange and L'AigU. 

The town of BeUinzona, one of the 
three capitals of the canton of the 
Tessin, is situated on the river 
from which the canton has its name. 
The houses, built in the Italian style, 
combine elegance with solidity. It 
extends to both sides of the river, 
which are connected by a very long 
bridge. On the east are two strong 
castles, the one above the other, and 
on the west is a third. From these 
three castles, walls descend to the 
banks of the river, so that the 
three town gates shut in the vaUeys 
which meet here; those of Levantina 
Blogno, and Misocco. BeUinzona is 
the great depository of the mer- 
chandize transported across the St 
Gothard, the Lukmanier, and the 
Bernardino. 

The principal routes that centre 
at BeUinzona are, that leading to 
Switzerland, which forms the three 
branches to Coire and Altorf ; and 
that leading to Cadenazzo, where it 
forms branches leading severaUy to 
Locarno and Lugano. 

The cathedral, to which is an- 
nexed a chapter of canons, is the 
handsomest church in the canton ; 
the front and the altars are of mar- 
ble, and it also contains some good 
pictures. The Einsiedlische Resi- 
denz, or " Monastery of Monks of 
Einsiedeln." Here a number of Be- 
nedictines, belonging to that cele- 



brated abbey, give gratuitous in- 
struction in Latin, German, Italian, 
geography, natural history, and 
rhetoric. 

Environs. — There are many in- 
teresting objects in this vicinity. 
A dam of mason work, constructed 
to repress the inundations of the 
Tessin, extends from the town to 
Molinasso. On the west of BeUin- 
zona is the Castel Grande, a smaU 
fort buUt by Julius Caesar, and en- 
larged, in the fifteenth century, by 
the dukes of MUan, by whom those 
caUed the CasteUo di Mezzo and the 
CasteUo di Sasso-Corbarion, on the 
east of the town, were also erected. 
These three castles present very 
agreeable points of view. Close to 
the town, near the chapel of St Paul, 
is the spot where the Swiss, in num- 
ber only three thousand, defeated 
an army of twenty -four thousand 
men under the command of the 
Duke of Milan. The distance from 
BeUinzona to Como is twenty -five 
EngUsh nules. 

Roadfrom BeUinzona to Locarno. — 
The road from BeUinzona to Lo- 
carno, a distance of above four' 
leagues, passes through Sementina, 
Grido, Cegnasco, Gordola, and Te- 
nero, after wliich it crosses the 
Verzasca at the opening of the val- 
ley of the same name, witliin two 
leagues of Locarno. 

Locarno (Inn, the Crown), also 
one of tlie capitals of the canton of 
the Tessin, is situated on the lake 
of the same name, which is merely 
a basin forming the most northern 
part of the Lago Maggiore. Close 
by the town, the Maggia, after de- 
scending through the vaUey of the 
same name, discharges itself into 
the lake. Locarno possesses broad 
streets, several elegant bmldings, 
and a large square. Its circuit is 
greater than that of BeUinzona, but 
it is not so well peopled. There are 
at Locarno three convents. 

Environs. — The cathedral of Lo- 
carno, and the buildings inhabited 



448 NORTHEEN ITALY. — ROUTE 88. EXCURSIONS FROM LUGANO. 



by the canons that form the chap- 
ter, are situated a quarter of a 
league from Locarno, in a place 
called Muralto. There is also 
another convent above the city, 
which is supported against a mass 
of rock, and hence denominated the 
Madonna del Sasso. The convents 
of the Madonna del Sesto, and the 
Madonna della Trinita, present de- 
lightful points of view, and the prox- 
imity of the Lago Maggiore admits 
of a variety of agreeable prome- 
nades 

Magad'mo. - Inns, Bateau a Va- 
peur, and Swiss. A small steamer 
leaves Magadino every morning 
(Sunday excepted) for Sesto Ca- 
lende, calling at various places, and 
returning the same evening about 
eight or nine o'clock; those pro- 
ceeding on to JVIilan will find con- 
veyances ready to start from Sesto 
on the arrival of the steamer. ' It 
takes about four hours to reach there 
from Locarno. Thus, for a trifling 
cost the traveller has an oppor- 
tunity of observing the peculiar 
features of Italian scenery. 

ROUTE 88. 

BELLINZONA TO LUGANO. 

To Lugano is a distance of five 
leagues and three-quarters, across 
the Morobbia at Giubasco. Be- 
tween Cadenazzo and Bironico 
it traverses Mont Cenere, which 
was formerly infested with rob- 
bers, so as to render it necessary 
for travellers to procure an escort 
from Bellinzona to the latter 
place. At Bironico there is a 
large inn, where may be seen a 
collection of escutcheons belong- 
ing to all the legal commissioners 
sent to Lugano within the last 
three centuries. Beyond this village 
is situated on an elevated hill the 
convent of Al Bigorio, which 
commands a magnificent prospect. 
The road follows the course of the 



Isone to the pleasant villages of 
Taverna Sopra and Taverna Sotto, 
and afterwards crosses that stream 
at the mill of Ostarietta. After 
traversing Vescia or Veccin, and 
Mesagna, it at length reaches 
Lugano. 

Ljigano (Inns, Crown and Swiss) , 
the largest town in the canton of 
the Tessin, of which it is one of 
the three capitals, is situated on a 
large bay, formed by the lake of 
the same name. Its external 
appearance is very imposing, and 
it contains a number of fine squares 
and private huildings, in addition to 
the public edifices. 

Edifices. — The cathedral or col- 
legiate church, situated on an 
eminence, and remarkable for the 
ornaments with which its portal is 
embellished. The Franciscan or 
Cordelier church, which contains 
a good picture by Luvini. The 
theatre is remarkable for its size 
and the beauty of its decorations. 

There are also at Lugano three 
male and three female convents, with 
a chapter of canons mider the direc- 
tion of an archdeacon. 

Environs. — The environs of Lu- 
gano rank among the most beau- 
tiful in Switzerland, as weU on 
accomit of the proximity of the 
lake, as the fertility of the sur- 
rounding comitry. 

EXCURSIONS FROM LUGANO. 

Mont Bre, or Gottardo. — One 
of the finest points of view in the 
neighbourhood of Lugano is on 
Mont Bre, or Gottardo, situated 
on the east of the town. 

Agno and Ponte Tresa, — The 
villages of Agno and Ponte Tresa, 
situated on the west of the town, 
form the object of an agreeable 
excursion ; the road, which com- 
mands a variety of picturesque 
views, passing by Sorengo, reaches 
Agno. Beyond Agno is Magliasa, 
and farther on Ponte Tresa. Be- 



AUSTRIAN FRONTIER. — ROUTE 



GENEVA TO TURLN. 



449 



side the Laghetta di Tresa there 
appears upon the right the yOlage 
of Lavenna, and on the left the 
picturesque mountain of Castano. 
This small lake communicates with 
that of Agno. The tourist may re- 
turn to Lugano by way of Yiglio, 
and the borders of the Lago Muz- 
zana. 

St Salvador. — The chapel built 
on the acclivity of the mountain 
St Salvador, distant about three 
leagues from Lugano, commands 
a view considered by some to be 
unrivalled in Switzerland for mag- 
nificence. The palace of the Mar- 
quis di Riva, and the convent of 
the Zoccolanti agl'Angeli, in the 
town of Lugano, are among the 
most conspicuous objects. 

The Cantine di Caprino. — Oppo- 
site to Lugano, on the other side 
of the lake, are some caves wrought 
in the rock, at the foot of Mont 
Caprino, which are called the 
Cantine di Caprino. Hither the 
inhabitants of the town are habi- 
tuated to resort during the heats 
of summer, as the cold wind that 
issues from the caves not only re- 
freshes the atmosphere, but cools 
the wines deposited in their re- 
cesses. They are hence called also 
Bocche di Venti, or Eolo, " Mouths 
of the Wind," or " JEolus." The 
wine is so very cool as to appear 
iced, and there are a number of 
small apartments above the en- 
trances of the caves, which serve 
for the accommodation of visitants. 
These natural cellars are the pro- 
perty of the rich inhabitants of 
Lugano. 

Mendrisio, the most southwardly 
of Switzerland, situated within a 
short distance of the Lombardo- 
Venetian frontier. It is distant 
three leagues and a half from 
Lugano. The distance by the lake 
from Lugano to Cape di Lago 
is two leagues and a half ; from 
Capo to Mendrisio one league. 
Mendrisio is composed of only one 



street, of insignificant buildings, 
but the climate is the finest in 
Switzerland. 

The road from Como to Milan 
described in the excursions from 
Milan. 

ROUTE 89. 

No. L — GENEVA TO TURIN BY 
MONT CENIS. 

44^ postes, or 222^ English miles. 

Postes. 

From Geneva to St Julien - - Ig 
(| post extra quitting Geneva.) 

— Frangy ----- 2| 

— Mionas - - - - 1^ 

— Rumilly _ _ . . j^ 

— Albens ----- ^ 

— Aix - - - - - li 

— Chambery - - - - 2 

— Montmeillan - - - 2 

— Maltaverne - - - - If 

— Aiguebelle - - - - l| 

— La Grande Maison - - 2J 

— St Jean - - - - 2 

— St Michel - - - - 2 

— Modane . - - . 2^ 

— Verney - - - - 1| 

— Lans le Bourg - - -2 

— Mont Cenis - - - - 3 

— Molaret - - - - 3 

— Suze - - - - - 2 

— Bruzolo - - - - 1| 

— St Ambroise - - - 1| 

— Rivoli - - - - 1| 

— Turin (| poste royale) - 2| 

No. 2. — GENEVA TO TURIN BY 
ANNECY. 

43| postes, or 2165- English miles. 

Postes. 

From Geneva to St Julien - 1^ 

— Cruseilles - - - - 2 

— Annecy - - - - 2^ 

— Faverges - - - - SJ 

— Albert-Ville . . - 3 

— Aiguebelle - - - - 3 

— Turin (same as No. 1) - 28| 

N.B. The second route is the 
most interesting. The malle-poste 
leaves Geneva every morning at 
half-past eight, for Aix les Bains, 
Chambery, Turin, &c. A dihgence 
every morning at seven, to Cham- 
bery in twelve hours, correspond- 
ing with the messageries Bonafous, 
freres, direct to Turin and all parts 
of Italy. 



450 



NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 90. GENEVA TO TURIN. 



EOUTE 90. 

GENEVA TO TURIN BY ALBENS. 

St Julien, on the frontier of Sa- 
voy, where the baggage and the 
passports of travellers are examined. 
From hence the road continues to 
ascend a long hill to Mont Sion, 
about 3,300 feet above the level of 
the sea, commanding views of the 
lake of Geneva, the Jura, and the 
deep valley of the Rhone. 

Cruseilles, a small town of 1,400 
inhabitants. The road from Cru- 
seilles to Annecy rapidly descends 
to cross the stream of the Usses in 
a deep defile to an iron suspension 
bridge over this ravine. It is 
called the Pont de la CaOle, and was 
opened in 1839. 

Annecy contains about 6,000 in- 
habitants. 

Inns, Hotel de Geneve. This 
city is beautifully situated on the 
borders of a lake, which is dis- 
charged by canals, that cross its 
streets ; the shops in many are un- 
der arcades There are some ob- 
jects of interest among the pubHc 
buildings of Annecy, but none of 
sufficient attraction to detain the 
traveller. At the lower end of the 
lake there is a beautiful promenade ; 
the views from here of the moun- 
tain and lake are very fine. A 
good road along the shore of the 
lake leads to the chateau Dwing, 
placed on the neck of land which 
runs out into the lake, where stran- 
gers may board and lodge during 
the summer, and enjoy some of the 
most delightful excursions in its 
vicinity. From Annecy to Aix, the 
road passes through the villages of 
Viengy and Balmont to 

Alhy, a village situated on the 
Cheron ; a fine stone bridge of a 
single arch of great heiglit and 
span is thrown across the Cheron 
here. This village was formerly 
surrounded with a wall and castles, 
of which some traces exist, which 
were built on both sides of the 



river to defend the passage of the 
valley. 

Albens, a village of 1,000 inha- 
bitants, where coins of Claudian, 
Antonius, and other emperors have 
been found. Beyond Albens, tlie 
road descends the plain to 

Aix les Bains.— Hotel de la Poste, 
finely situated. Hotel Venat. This 
watering place was known to the 
Romans under the name of Aquaa 
Gratianae, and is still resorted to 
on account of its mineral springs, 
and of the attractions of the beau- 
tiful country around. The town 
is situated at a short distance to 
the east of the lake of Bourget. It 
contains several Roman remains, a 
triumphal arch, part of an Ionic 
temple of Venus, and a vapour 
bath in a tolerably perfect state. 
Its mineral springs are warm and 
sulphurous ; they have a tempera- 
ture varying between 100*^ and 
107° Fahrenheit. The alum spring 
issues from imder an antique arch, 
and is chiefly employed in douching 
horses. The sulphur spring is drunk 
at the source, and is good for de- 
rangement of the digestive organs. 
There is a handsome bath house, 
into the apartments of which the 
hot water is introduced in streams, 
which descend from a height of 
eight or ten feet upon the patient. 
The douching process consists in 
having the water applied to various 
parts of the body while they are at 
the same time subjected to brisk 
friction by the hands of the attend- 
ants ; the patient is then wrapped 
up dripping wet in a blanket, car- 
ried home in a sedan chair, and put 
into a warm bed. The favourite 
excursion is to Haute Combe, on 
the opposite shore of the lake of 
Bourget. Tliis monastery, beauti- 
fully situated by the side of the 
lake, and at the fort of Mont du 
Chat, was founded in 1125. Its 
Gothic chapels were the burial 
places of the princes of Savoy. 
The building was pillaged .and,4e- 



SAVOY. — ROUTE 90. GENEVA TO TURIN. CHAMBERY. 



451 



secrated at the French Revolution ; 
the coffins were opened, and the 
monuments, paintings, and stained 
glass destroyed. Charles Felix, 
King of Sardinia, restored it as 
nearly as possible to its original 
condition. About a mile behind 
the abbey is an intermittent spring 
called Fontaine des Merveilles. 

Steamers ply on the lake of Bour- 
get, passing daily between Cham- 
bery and Aix on the lake, and 
Lyons, by the Upper Rhone, during 
the season. 

The length of the voyage descend- 
ing to Lyons is about eight hours, 
and the ascent from Lyons twenty 
hours. The road from Aix is very 
picturesque, passing below the 
wooded slopes of the dent de Nivo- 
let, rendering the approach to 
Chambery beautiful, and highly in- 
teresting. 

Chamhery . — Hotels, deV Europe, 
very comfortable ; excellent table 
d'hote ; La Poste. — This city con- 
tains a population of 14,000 souls, 
is the residence of a governor, and 
an archbishop's see, but contains 
nothing interesting to a traveller en 
route to Turin or Milan. 

Chambery is, however, reputed 
for its good cheer d la FrauQaise. 
The pat^s of Savoy nearly rival 
those of Perigord. Its large biscuits 
are of European celebrity. The 
compote verte of Chambery, made of 
candied fruits, is exquisite. 

The railroad, opened in 1839, 
takes one to Aix in about half an 
hour, whence, in summer, it only 
takes ten hours to descend the 
Rhone as far as Lyons. The steamer 
leaves every day, Sundays excepted, 
and the fare is 9 frs. 55 c. for the 
first class, and 6 frs. 55 c. for tl^e 
second. 

Montmeillan. — From Chambery to 
this town the country is richly cul- 
tivated ; vines are in great abund- 
ance, which produce the best red 
wine in Savoy, but it requires to 
be kept a few years in bottle. Mont- 



meillan is situated on the river Is^re. 
After passing over the bridge the 
road enters the valley of the Mauri- 
enne, extending to the base of Mont 
Cenis. 

Aiguebelle, — The road constructed 
by order of Napoleon commences 
just beyond this village, and passes 
through the Maurienne, a narrow 
valley, bordered by some of the 
most gigantic of the Maritime Alps. 
Several bridges are thrown over a 
noisy torrent called the Arc, and 
one of the tributary streams to the 
Isdre. The villages of Epierre. 
La Chapelle, and La Chambre, all 
situated in the Maurienne, formerly 
exhibited a striking picture of dis- 
ease: cretins were seen at almost 
every door ; and the inhabitants 
were universally afflicted with goitres. 
But to secure the new road, the 
marshes were drained, and the des- 
tructive torrent, which continually 
flooded the valley, confined within 
its proper channel; by these means 
the air was rendered salubrious, 
the increase of cre^/w5prevented,and 
goitres nearly exterminated . 

St. Jean de Maurienne \i.zs been 
handsomely and almost wholly re- 
built within the last twenty years. 
Beyond St. Jean de Maurienne the 
road crosses the Arvan, and the 
Arc on bridges, facing which is a 
rivulet of water that petrifies every 
substance it touches ; and has, con- 
sequently, made for itself a natural 
aqueduct, Midway between St. 
Jean de Maurienne and St. Michel 
is the hamlet of St. Julien, celebra- 
ted for its wines. 

St. Michel\s a pretty village, con- 
taining a good inn. 

From St. Michel to the little town 
of Modane the road lies on the 
banks of the rapid Arc, between 
barren rocks, surmounted by stu- 
pendous Alps, from which descend 
numerous cascades ; that of St. 
Benoit is one of the finest waterfalls 
in the Alps, but though near the 
road, not seen from it. Several 



452 NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 90. GENEVA TO TURIN. MONT CENIS, 



cottages have been recently erected, 
and a post house established at a 
place called Epierre, lying in this 
road: and between Modane and 
Termignon, which is near the base 
of Cenis, is a large and strong for- 
tress; its batteries bear upon the 
road in all directions. Termignon 
merits notice on account of its sin- 
gular position. It stands on the 
right bank of the Arc, not far from 
its confluence with the Leisse, and 
is so much surrounded by water as 
to resembles an island. 

Lans le Bourg is at the base of 
Cenis, containing a considerable 
number of inhabitants, some of 
whom are employed in facilitating 
the passage of the mountain, by 
removing the new-fallen snow, 
during eight or nine months in the 
year, from those places where, if 
sufiFered to accumulate, it might 
block up the road ; and by aflbrd- 
ing travellers every assistance they 
require. 

L'' Hotel Royal^ at Lans le Bourg, 
is a large house, with stabling, and 
a spacious remise, built by order of 
Napoleon for the accommodation of 
his officers. 

After heavy falls of snow, car- 
riages are sometimes from six to 
'«ven hours in ascending Cenis on 
the Savoy side; and from four to 
five hours in descending on the side 
of Piedmont : and when the snow 
is particularly deep, carriages are 
dismounted, and put into traineaux. 
This, however, rarely happens ; 
and the most dangerous part of the 
passage of Cenis during winter — 
namely, the gallery situated at the 
base of an avalanche, which falls 
annually — is now avoided by means 
of a road, lately made practicable 
for carriages, from the Italian 
Barrier to the wild Plain of San 
Niccolo ; and through the centre of 
hat plain to Molaretto. 

Few scenes can be more astonish- 
ing, or more truly sublime, than 
that presented to travellers who 



cross Mont Cenis. Pompey is sup- 
posed to have been the first person 
who attempted making a passage 
over this Alp, which from his days 
till the year 1811, could only be 
crossed on foot, on a mule, or in a 
chaise-cb-porteurs. Napoleon, how- 
ever, determined to make a new 
road, and employed three thousand 
workmen, who formed a new route 
practicable for carriages at all sea- 
sons of the year, although it tra- 
verses a part of Cenis, which is 
5,898 English feet above the level 
of the Mediterranean sea. This 
excellent and wonderful work unites 
the valley of the Arc in Savoy with 
that of the Doria Riparia, in Pied- 
mont, passing, at Lans le Bourg, 
over a fine bridge thrown across 
the Arc; thence winding up the 
side of Cenis, by means of six gal- 
leries cut through pasturages and 
forests, to La Eamasse; whence, 
during winter, venturous travellers 
when coming from Pidemont de- 
scend to Lans le Bourg ( a distance 
of two leagues) in seven minutes, 
each traveller being seated in a 
traineaux, guided by one man only. 
At present, however, these vehicles 
may be used on the carriage road 
with perfect safety, though not with 
their former celerity. The most 
elevated part of the route is a 
plain, two leagues in length, enr 
circled by the loftiest peaks of 
Cenis, and containing the post house, 
the barracks, and La Grande Croix^ 
a small inn. The plain of Cenis is 
embellished with a beautiful and, 
according to report, an unfathom- 
able lake, whose limpid waters re- 
flect the surrounding heights, and 
nourish the most delicious trout in 
Em-ope. The cheese of the moun- 
tain is likewise excellent, and the 
butter and wine are good. 

Fronting the lake stands a ham- 
let called Tavernettes, because most 
of the houses receive travellers ; 
and at the extremity of the lake, on 
the Piedmonteseside, stands L'Hos- 



PIEDMONT. -ROUTE 90. GENEYA TO TURIN. MONT CENTS. 453 



pice, which was founded by the 
Emperor Charlemagne, for the ac- 
commodation of travellers ; sup- 
pressed at the commencement of 
the French republic, but restored 
and rendered more than usually 
flourishing by the Emperor Napo- 
leon. 

The descent from the Italian bar- 
rier into Piedmont displays much 
more stupendous scenery than does 
the ascent from Savoy; and the 
difficulty of constructing the car- 
riage road was much greater on 
the Piedmontese side than on the 
other. The first gallery which pre- 
sents itself on this side is 650 feet 
in length, and cut in several places 
through solid rocks of granite. The 
wild and sublime plain of San 
Niccolo is embellished with three 
large cascades, one of which, being 
conveyed under the road several 
times, makes beautiful water-falls 
by issuing from arches of masonry. 
After crossing this plain, the road 
ascends to a part of Cenis where 
stands the inn or refuge numbered 
IV. between which and that num- 
bered III. the gallery is narrow, and 
surmounted by the lofty peaks of 
Cenis. On this spot, during the 
year 1831, an avalanche fell, and 
destroyed a considerable number of 
travellers and horses, who were 
passing at the moment. Opposite 
to the hamlet of La Ferriere is an- 
other gallery, above 2,000 feet in 
length, and cut through a remark- 
ably hard and precipitous rook of 
solid granite. Here a wall, nine 
feet in height and six hundred in 
extent, defends the gallery from 
earth and loose stones, which might 
otherwise fall into and destroy it. 
The scenery in this part of the route 
is enchanting. Near Molaretto, on 
the right, rise the fruitful hills of 
Chaumont, watered by the Doria 
Riparia, which descends from Mont 
Ginevre, while on the left, is the 
gigantic Alp of Kochemelon, soar- 
ing to a stupendous height above 



the beautiful valley of Cenis, and 
extending, as does that valley, to 
Susa. From the post house at 
Molaretto, to the extremity of the 
pass of Gaiglione, the road, gene- 
rally speaking, is cut through rocks 
at the brink of a precipice flanked 
by a strong dwarf wall, and then 
traverses a hill (covered with rich 
vegetation, and exhibiting a distant 
view of the valley of the Doria and 
the mountains near Turin,) till it en- 
ters the faubourg of Susa. 

As travellers who pass Cenis are 
liable to encounter fogs, snow- 
storms, and dangerous gusts of 
wind, Napoleon established, in the 
most elevated and exposed parts of 
the route, twenty-three refuges, 
provided with bells, which, during 
the prevalence of thick fogs, are 
rung to guide travellers from one 
refuge to another; and these inns 
,are tenanted by cantonniers, whose 
business it is to keep the road in good 
condition. 

The number of cantonniers insti- 
tuted by Napoleon has been reduced 
by the King of Sardinia, who still, 
however, preserves two companies, 
amounting to about fifty men ; and 
to assist in defraying the expense of 
keeping the new route in repair, and 
maintaining the establishment at 
L'Hospice, there is a tax of 5 frs. 
for every horse that passes Cenis. 

Susa. — This town was once de- 
fended by the strong fortress of La 
Brunetta, which is now destroyed; 
but an ancient triumphal arch still 
remains, and merits observation. 

In the valleys, between the base of 
Cenis and Susa, the inhabitants arc 
afflicted with goitres, which they 
attribute to the chill the throat con- 
tinually receives in consequence of 
the excessive coldness of the water. 

St. Jonard, St. AntoninOy St. Am- 
brogio, Rivoli. 

The road between Susa and Turin 

is, generally speaking, a descent. The 

country abounds with meadow land, 

fertilized by the waters of the Doria, 

c 



454 



NORTHERN ITALY, — ^BOUTE 90. TURIN. 



The usual time occupied in ascend- 
ing with carriages from Susa to La 
Grande Croix, provided the road be 
in good condition, is about five hours 
and a half; and the usual time occu- 
pied in descending to Lans le Bourg 
is about three hours. 

TURIN. 

Hotels. — TTotelFeder. well spoken 
of. Europe. — Excellent, comfortable 
and reasonable ; no table d'hote, but 
capital restaurate a la carte. 

Perhaps of all the Italian cities, 
the origin and foundation of Turin 
are the least enveloped in mystery. 
The whole territory between the 
Doria and the Po having been oc- 
cupied by a colony of Ligurians, 
they laid the foundation of Turin, 
which was not long in becoming a 
town of importance. The name is 
said to be derived from the Celtic 
word Taurini, by which the Ligu- 
rians were distinguished, but its 
etymology is uncertain. Plin)' 
thinks, with some reason, that 
Turin was the oldest city of Ligu- 
ria. In fact, when Hannibal de- 
scended the Alps, he found it 
already so powerful and populous, 
that being unsuccessful in his at- 
tempt to gain it as an ally, he 
destroyed the city, that he might 
have nothing to dread from its 
hostility. Having arisen speedily 
from its ruins, Turin received within 
its walls an army of reserve which 
Julius Caesar left there when he 
marched against the Gauls — a cir- 
cumstance which gave it the name 
of Colonics Juliie ; but Augustus af- 
terwards restored its former appella- 
tion, and it was definitively styled 
Augusta Taurinorum. 

All the barbarian hordes which 
established themselves in Italy, left 
fatal traces of their passage at 
Turin, but, superior to events, the 
city grew to be powerful and tran- 
quil under the Lombards. It was 
raised to the rank of a capital of 
one of the duchies of that kingdom ; 
and at a later period, Agilulf hav- 



ing married Theodolinda, Queen of 
Lombardy, this city became the 
object of their predilection. Theo- 
dolinda, it is well known, was emi- 
nent for her piety, and in 602y 
founded the church of St. John the 
Baptist — in our days the cathedral 
of Turin. 

Charlemagne, having destroyed 
the Lombard kingdom, established 
the Marquis de Suse at Turin, con- 
ferring upon him princely authority, 
with the duty of defending the passes 
of the Alps, and keeping in check 
the neighbouring people, who were 
always ready for revolt. This power 
continued in the house of Suse until 
1032, At that epoch, Alderic Man- 
fredi, finding himself withont heirs 
male, gave his daughter Adelaide, 
with his dominions for her dower, 
in marriage to Otton, Count deMau- 
rieune. The sovereignty thus passed 
into the illustrious house of Savoy,, 
and Turin became the regal resi- 
dence. 

Turin has always played a con- 
spicuous part in the wars of France^ 
sometimes as an enemy, sometimes 
an ally. Its geographical position 
entailed upon it this calamitous ne- 
cessity, from which it has suffered 
no little. In 1636, at the time of 
the conquest of Piedmont, by Fran- 
cis I. of France, that monarch 
was so enraged by a prolonged re- 
sistance, that he wholly destroyed 
four of the suburbs of Turin, which 
did not recover its pristine splen- 
dour Ijefore the lapse of two centu- 
ries. 

The latter period of the past ard 
the commencement of the present 
century were not less fatal to Turin, 
for it became the chief station of 
one of the military divisions of 
France, and was visibly depopulated 
and impoverished. 

The tingdom of Sardinia having 
been formed according to the con- 
ditions of the treaties of Vienna 
and Paris, the government was re- 
established in the present dynasty, 



PIEDMONT. ROUTE 90. TURJK. 



ACES. 



455 



and Turin speedily recovered more 
than she had lost, and again flou- 
rished as a wealthy, populous, and 
brilliant capital. 

Topography and Statistics. — Tu- 
rin, seated in the middle of a mag- 
nificent plain, stretching to the foot 
of the Alps, is built on the banks of 
the Po and the Doria Riparia. On 
one side are pleasant hills, with 
country houses and vineyards scat- 
tered amidst their delightful slopes. 
Beautiful walks have superseded 
the bastions which anciently sur- 
rounded the city ; of all its defen- 
sive fortifications the citadel alone 
remains. 

We find the population of Turin, 
so considerable in the latter part of 
the eighteenth century, reduced in 
1814 to 60,000 souls ; since that 
period, however, it has increased 
with so rapid a progression that it 
now amounts to 140,000. 

Great commercial activity pre- 
vails in this city ; a well-protected 
industry plainly manifests itself; 
the arts and sciences number many 
eminent professors, as well among 
the natives as the foreigners, whom 
the provident munificence of the 
king has attracted to his capital. 

Turin is especially remarkable 
for the regularity of its streets, 
which, with few exceptions, inter- 
sect each other at right angles. 
The houses form rows of an archi- 
tecture so symmetrical, that they 
might be accounted so many public 
buildings ; we must, however, in 
justice admit that their style is 
generally heavy and in indifferent 
taste. If the entrance into Turin 
by the Porte Neuve and the Porte 
Susina be imposing, that by the 
beautiful bridge of the Po is stately 
and majestic, and in aU respects 
worthy of a great capital. 

The city is divided into four 
sections, which are subdivided into 
130 quarters, or iles ; these quarters 
are composed of eighty- three streets 
and thirteen places, of an extent 



more or less considerable. The cir- 
cumference of the city is six Lom- 
bard miles, or a French league and 
a half. Formerly the ecclesiastical 
jurisdiction was subject to the 
Archbishop of Milan, but in the 
sixteenth century Leo X raised 
Turin to the rank of a metropolis. 
It is the seat of an archbishop, 
whose diocese is composed of ten 
suffragan bishoprics and 212 pa- 
rishes. 

The streets have gutters in the 
centre throughout their entire 
length, and derive a supply of 
water from a large reservoir at 
Porte Susina ; these gutters are 
made serviceable for the nightly 
cleansing of the streets — a means 
of purification which may have its 
advantages, though it cannot be de- 
nied that in rainy or frosty weather 
the gutters are excessively incom- 
modious. Turin is lighted with gas. 

The vicinity of the Alps causes 
the winters of Turin to be occa- 
sionally severe, but the inconve- 
nience is compensated by the 
healthful purity of the air. The 
summer heat would be sufiJciently 
oppressive were it not tempered by 
the mountain breezes. 

The Piedmontese dialect, a mix- 
ture of French and Italian, is not 
the most agreeable to the ear, but 
it is deficient neither in strength or 
originality. 

Places. — The principal place is 
the Piazza Castello, situated in the 
fairest quarter of Turin. It derives 
its name from the palace, known as 
the Lady castle, built in the centre, 
and now used for government offices. 
The place is environed with the 
royal palace, the grand theatre, the 
of&cial residences of the secretaries 
of state and finance, and many other 
edifices of suitable architecture. It 
is crossed by the noble streets of 
Dora Grossa and the Po, their 
piazzas affording the inhabitants 
a pleasant promenade, especially in 
rainy weather. 



456 



NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 90. TURIN. CHURCHES. 



The Place St Charles is remark- 
able for its size and regularity ; it 
is surrounded with piazzas. On 
two of its sides are the churches of 
8t Charles and St Christina ; in the 
centre stands a pedestal, surmount- 
ed by a bronze statue of Emanuel 
PhiUbert in the act of sheathing 
his sword. 

The Place Carignan deserves no- 
tice, as it contains the palace of 
Charles Albert, Prince of Carignan, 
and the theatre of the same name. 

The Place Emanuel Phlibert, situ- 
ated between the city and the Dora 
faubourg, forms a spacious octagon; 
it is environed with appropriate 
buildings, expressly constructed for 
the various markets of the city. 
Tlie great Italian highway and the 
well - wooded road encompassing 
Turin intersect the centre of this 
place at right angles. 

The Place Victor Emanuel, which 
extends to the termination of the 
street of the Po, presents an impos- 
ing aspect, as its regular lines of 
houses possess unbroken piazzas, 
with handsome terraces on their 
summits. 

A foreigner should also visit the 
places known as those of Carolini, 
Pescara, Charles Felix, and JLa Con- 
solata. In the centre of the last- 
named place is a column with a 
statue of the Virgin, erected in 
fulnlment of a vow made when the 
cholera raged at Turin. 

A large quadrangular piece of 
ground, called the Field of St Se- 
condo, or more appropriately that 
of Mars, is used for mihtary exer- 
cises ; it is south-west of the city, 
and adjacent to the arsenal and 
citadel. 

Bridges.— At the extremity of the 
Place Victor Emanuel a handsome 
stone bridge, of considerable extent, 
crosses the Po. A long perspective 
is grandly terminated by a church, 
dedicated to the Mother of God, of 
which we shall soon have occasion 
to speak. Another and more re- 



markable bridge enforces attention 
by the boldness of its design and 
the solidity of its construction ; it 
is of stone, and of a single arch. 
The Piedmontese engineer, the Che- 
valier Mosca, accounts this bridge, 
and not without reason, his noblest 
work. It is situated on the Dorisl, 
beyond the Place Emanuel Phili- 
bert. 

Churches. — The churches and 
chapels are 110 in number, all more 
or less presenting claims to notice ; 
nineteen are distinguished as parish 
churches. 

The most ancient is the Cathedral, 
dedicated to St John the Baptist, 
and founded, as we before stated, 
by Queen Theodolinda. It was re- 
built at a subsequent period, ac- 
cording to the design of Bramante, 
and it is painful to find the name 
of an artist of his celebrity attached 
to so sorry a production. Although 
ornamented with pilasters, the prin- 
cipal entrance is in passing bad 
taste. In the interior, however, 
the beautiful marble altar, and the 
organ, richly decorated with gild- 
ings and bas-reliefs, produce a strik- 
ing effect. At the rear of the prin- 
cipal altar is the entrance into the 
Church of St Su.aire, a graceful 
rotunda, surrounded with double co- 
lumns of polished black marble, with 
gilded bases and capitals ; these 
columns sustain six continuous 
arches, enclosing noble windows. 
The cupola which crowns this ro- 
tunda consists of several interlacing 
arches, ingeniously loop-holed, and 
so disposed as to present to view, at 
the very summit of the building, a 
kind of star wrought in marble, 
which appears to be suspended in 
air, and without any visible support. 
The altar is of black marble, and 
has two fronts ; it is adorned with 
a square shrine, where the relics of 
St Suaire are preserved in crystal. 
A group of angels upholding a crys- 
tal cross forms the crowning orna- 
ment. The pavement is marble, 



; EIEDMONT.--ROTJTE 90. TURIN, CHURCHES. 



* 

457 



relieved with stars of bronze. This 
beautiful temple, built by order of 
the Duke Charles Emanuel III. was 
designed by Guarine. It has been 
recently restored and repainted with 
great care. 

Among the churches of modern 
times we must first mention that of 
St. Philippe Neri, as elegant as it is 
imposing ; the front is now approach- 
ing completion. It is built after a 
plan by Juvarra, a Spanish architect, 
whose productions are numerous at 
Turin. The principal altar is em- 
bellished with six twisted marble 
columns, encircled with vine gar- 
lands in gilded bronze. 

Stucco and marble decorations 
especially distinguish the Church of 
St^ Theresa, and an elaborate rich- 
ness of ornament is even more con- 
spicuous in that of the Holy Mar- 
tyrs, lately restored to the Jesuits, 
for which society it was erected in 
1577, by Pellegrini, 

An elegance, blended with a start- 
ling strangeness throughout the 
whole construction, attracts connoi- 
seurs to the Church of the Carme- 
lites, With a beautiful alabaster 
statue of St. Joseph at its base, the 
diminutive cupola rises from six pil- 
lars of different coloured marbles; 
the light is so disposed. that even in 
the gloomiest and dreariest season 
this cupola appears irradiated with 
cheerful sunshine. This church 
«wes its architectural excellence to 
Juvarra. 

The Church of St. Lawrence is 
distinguished for the boldness of its 
style, and for its gorgeousness as a 
whole. The taste and skill of G-ua- 
riui are recognised here, as at St. 
Suaire. The church 'is almost all 
marble. 

The facade of the Church of St. 
Christina demands notice. Juvarra 
has skilfully harmonised it with the 
style of the adjoining edifices in the 
Place St. Charles. 

The Church of Corpus Domini^ 



built in 1607 by Vitozzi, is famous 
for the rich profusion of its internal 
decorations, the work of the archi- 
tect Alfieri. Of the same character 
is the Church of St. Francis d« 
Paule, founded by the Duchess Ma- 
ria Christina, the wife of Victor 
Amadeus. 

Of the many churches in posses- 
sion of various confraternities, we 
can only notice those of 

The Holy Ghost, occupying, it is 
said, the site of an ancient temple 
of Diana. In this church, in 1728, 
J. J. Rousseau abjured Calvinism. 

The Holy Trinity, a small church, 
esteemed one of the prettiest in the 
city. Its architecture is Yitozzi's, 
its embellishments Juvarra's. Da- 
niel Seyter, the principal painter at 
the courts of Victor Amadeus II. and 
Charles Emanuel III. is buried here. 

Sarda Croce, after the plan of 
Lanfranchi, presents a much ad- 
mired facade, the work of the Cheva- 
lier Mosea. 

The general irregularity of La 
Consolata is accounted for by its uni- 
ting three formerly distinct churches 
into one. La Consolata can boast a 
crowd of worshippers, attracted to it 
by an image of the Virgin, in a cha- 
pel with marble pillars, and a cupola 
on which paintings and gildings are 
profusely lavished. The interior dis- 
plays an immense quantity of votive 
offerings, and of every degree of 
value. 

Perhaps of ail the churches we 
have specified, there is not one more 
deserving of attention than that 
called 

The Mother of God.— It is built 
at the foot of a verdant hill, over 
spread with country mansions, which 
shut out the horizon on that side. 
It was built at the cost of the muni- 
cipal administration, to perpetuate 
the remembrance of the happy re- 
turn of her ancient sovereigns into 
Piedmont. The Chevalier Bonsig- 
nori, the architect of this fine temple. 



458 



NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 90. TURIN. PA.LACES. 



has imitated in little, and with no 
more than the unavoidable diversity, 
the Koman Pantheon. 

Although all these churches pos- 
sess paintings of merit, it must be 
admitted that they are deficient in 
the master-pieces so frequent in the 
other great cities of Italy. In the 
churches of Turin, however, are 
the productions of Guidobono, Sa- 
vonne, Albert Durer, Garavaglia, 
Guercino, the Proccacini, Moraz- 
zone, Trevisan, Vanloo, Maratti, 
and Seyler. In the small church 
of La Crocetfa, situated out of the 
city, is a " Descent from the Cross," 
by Tintoretto, which may well sus- 
tain comparison with the famous 
picture which enriches the church 
of S^. JDominicky the " Rosary," by 
Guercino. 

Palaces. — The King's Palace, 
built by Charles Emanuel II. and de- 
signed by Castellamonte, is a huge 
structure, with its large court bound- 
ed by open porticoes. Its exterior, 
which is perfectly bare of ornament, 
forms the western portion of the Pi- 
azza Castello, and by no means ac- 
cords with the general beauty of the 
city ; but this outward simplicity 
affords a striking contrast to the 
sumptuous grandeur of the apart- 
ments to which the vast staircases 
conduct. The magnificence of the 
furniture, carpets, and decorations, 
combined with the exquisite taste 
every where prevalent, render this 
abode indeed worthy of its illustrious 
occupants. 

The Palace of the Dukes of Sa- 
voy is connected with that of the 
king by means of a gallery. Charles 
Emanuel III. ordered its erection 
for the seat of his son, who selected 
a Piedmontese architect, the Count 
Alfieri, to carry into effect his fa- 
ther's intentions There is a beau- 
tiful fapade at the opening towards 
the little Place St. John Baptist ; 
but three others are needed to the 
completeness of this palace. 



The garden attached to the king's 
palace, and bounded by the city ram- 
parts, is very small; but the skil- 
fully combined perspective belies its 
diminutiveness, and lends it the ap- 
pearance without the reality of ex- 
tent. It was laid out by Le Notre, 
so well known for his happy dispo- 
sition of the garden of the Tuileries, 
at Paris. 

The Lady Palace, or Castle. — 
The foundation of this palace date* 
as far back as the commencement of 
the thirteenth century. It was re- 
paired and enlarged by Amadeus 
YIII. in 1416, and then formed the 
residence of the Dukes of Savoy. 
Philip Juvarra added the facade in 
1720. This fapade, admirable for 
the graces of its style and its orna- 
ments, is to be reproduced on the 
other three sides of the edifice, but 
up to the present period the project 
is the only part completed. The 
really grand staircase of this palace 
leads to numerous and spacious 
halls, which regal munificence has 
appropriated to the display of a se- 
ries of paintings by the ablest mas- 
ters of the Italian, German, Dutch, 
and Flemish schools. The pictures 
are arranged in classes, and the col- 
lection may challenge comparison 
with those of the first cities of Italy. 
It boasts the works of Raphael* 
Julio Romano, Titian, Guido, Guer- 
cino, Domenichino, Gaudence, Fer- 
rari, Bienvenu Garoffalo, Sassa Fer- 
rate, the " Four Elements'^ of Al- 
bano, the landscapes of Claude 
Lorraine, Poussin, Canaletto, Tem<» 
pesta, &c. ; as well as fine specimens 
of Teniers, Paul Potter, Rembrandt, 
Wouvermans, Van Dyk, Van Huy- 
sen, Brughel, Albert Durer, <fec. &c. 
In the furthest hall is a very spirited 
portrait of the reigning sovereign, 
Charles Albert, on horseback: it is 
by Horace Vernet. The picture 
gallery is open in summer from seven 
till twelve, and from two till five. In 
a tower is the Observatory ; it is 



PIEDMONT. — EOUTE 90. TURIX. ACADE^nES. 



459 



abundantly supplied with optical 
and astronomical instruments. 

Carignan Palace, in the place of 
the same name, was formerly the 
dwelling place of the princes royal. 
It is now occupied by the offices of 
the council of state and of the post 
office. Although the architecture 
sins against regularity, it is not 
wanting in impressiveness. The 
grand staircase and the saloon de- 
serve a nice examination. 

The Palace of the Senate, com- 
menced under the direction of 
Juvarra remained long unfinished. 
It was at length continued by Count 
Alfieri, and finished by Micheli, 
upon whose taste and skill the 
adornment of this stately pile 
reflects great honour. 

Turin contains many other pa- 
laces, but a regard to brevity has 
restricted our notice to those of 
the first rank. 

The University — This establish- 
ment, as vast as it is famous, was 
built after the plans of Jean An- 
toine Ricca, a Genoese architect. 
The exterior presented nothing to 
distinguish it from the adjacent 
buildings until Charles Felix (lately 
deceased) had a fine marble pedi- 
ment built to the gate opening on 
the Zecca. This gate, formerly 
detached, now forms the prin- 
cipal entrance. In the heart 
of the building is a handsome 
court, with a double colonnade, 
reaching, in the first instance, to 
the summit of the ground floor, 
thence to the story above. Tlie 
porch and vestibules are enriched 
with antique busts and statues of 
rare workmanship The walls are 
covered with bas-reliefs and sarco 
phagi their inscriptions telling of 
the earliest ages of Egypt, Greece, 
and Rome ; they form, so to speak, 
a veritable lapidary museum. Most 
of these precious antiquities were 
brought to light on the demolition 
of the Boulevard La Consolata. 

In the higher halls is the library 



of more than 100,000 volumes, be- 
sides very many antdent MSS., 
Greek, Latin, and Arabian ; a col- 
lection, indeed, of inestimable value. 
The library was formed by Duke 
Amadeus VIII, augmented by 
Emanuel Philibert and his sou 
Charles; but it owes its present 
importance to Victor Amadeus II. 

To the halls devoted to the dif- 
ferent university courts is joined 
a cabinet of medicine, established 
in 1739 by the Abbe Nollet, and- 
considerably enlarged by Father 
Beccaria. 

Royal Academy of Sciences. — This 
palace, formerly attached to the 
college of the Nobles, was built 
towards the close of the seventeenth 
century. Guarini, whom we have 
already named, was the architect. 
It is again to Charles FeUx that 
this palace owes its handsome gate, 
with marble columns, setting off 
the fa9ade. Other works are 
rapidly urged forward to render 
the Royal Academy worthy of its 
high destination. It already pos- 
sesses a library, amply stored with 
all works relating to the sciences 
and to general literature, cabinets 
of natural history, mineralogy, 
medals, an ab'indant assortment of 
pathological preparations, agricul- 
tural implements, newly-invented 
engines, &c But what excites the 
liveliest curiosity is the Egyptian 
museum ; its exuberance of statues, 
b as reliefs, medals, papyrus, and 
perfect mummies, renders the col- 
lection unequalled throughout Eu- 
rope, a distinction attained princi- 
pally through the care of the Che- 
valier Drovetti. 

The academy, since its founda- 
tion in 1739, has been famed for the 
ability alike of its resident or cor- 
responding members. It is divided 
into two classes, those of the physi- 
cal and mathematical sciences, and 
of moral pliilosophy and history. 

The Royal Academy of Fine Arts 
is in the Rue de la Poste ; its style 



460 NORTHERN ITALT. — ROUTE 90. TURIN. BENEVOLENT INSTITUTIONS. 



is imposing, and characteristic 
enough of the nature of the insti- 
tution. Public schools of painting, 
sculpture, engraving, architecture, 
and interior decoration, afford the 
studious youth of Turin the means 
of initiating and perfecting them- 
selves in the various branches of 
art. The best models are supplied, 
for the picture galler}/^ of the 
academy allows the pupils to study 
originals by Raphael, Albert Durer, 
Van Dyk, Luino, and Carlo Dolei, 
besides several of the Dutch school. 
There is also an excellent assort- 
ment of plaster casts, after the 
choicest sculptures to be found in 
Rome. The Agricultural Society 
also holds its sittings in the palace 
of the academy. 

The Royal Military Academy was 
founded in the se^^enteenth century 
(during the minority of Victor 
Amadeus II) by the Duchess of 
Nemours, regent of the states of 
►Savoy. She availed herself of the 
architectural genius of Count Ama- 
deus de Castellamonte. The aca- 
demy contains a handsome square 
court, three of its sides being 
adorned with piazzas of two 
stories ; on the fourth side is the 
palace of the Archives. No man 
possessing even the germ of good 
taste can fail of being gratified by 
an inspection of the chambers, 
galleries, refectory, stables, and 
above all, the riding school. This 
is a large gravelled enclosure with 
a lofty vaulted roof. Along the 
ridge of the entablature a species 
of gallery is constructed for the 
convenience of spectators. This 
riding schcol affords another proof 
of the munificence of Charles 
Emanuel III, and of the varied 
ability of Javarra. Nothing seems 
.^anting to render the pupils of this 
academy proficients in military 
tactics. 

Turin possesses many more col- 
leges, public institutions of un- 
doubted usefulness and advantage, 



and schools, not only for the youth 
of the wealthier classes, but for the 
indigent of both sexes There are 
asylums where the poor are main- 
tained and with judicious philan- 
thropy taught useful arts and 
trades. Of these philanthropic 
institutions we will cite, in the first 
instance, UAlhergo della Virtu and 
Zi'Albergo della mendicita instruita. 
The first Avas established by Charles 
Emanuel I, the second (as well as 
the Deaf and Dumb School) by 
Amadeus III. The principal hos- 
pitals for females are Rosine, the 
Orphans, Serpellire, the Military 
Orphans, &c. We ought not to 
omit mention of the justly- cele- 
brated College of the Jesuits, and the 
Seminary. 

Benevolent Institutions. — Passing 
by various establishments for the 
solace or cure of the many infirmi- 
ties that " flesh is heir to," we come 
to the Hospitals, of which Turin 
has eight civil and one military. 
The most ancient is La Citta, called 
also St John's, for it dates from the 
commencement of the fourteenth 
century To its requisite temporal 
accommodations the Marquis Ar- 
gentera, in 1768, ordered the spiri- 
tual addition of an elegant chapel, 
entrusting its erection to Castelli, 
who elevated a lantern and cupola 
on Ionic columns of Suse marble. 
The style and decorations are in 
excellent keeping. 

After St John's the most remark- 
able hospital is the Charity, near 
the street of the Po, originated by 
Charles Emanuel I, and greatly 
enlarged by Victor Amadeus II. 
It consists of two grand wings, 
each having a court surrounded 
with galleries : the church occupies 
the centre of the building. The 
inmates are about 1,500, of whom 
a third are invalids. The patients 
who are able to work are employed 
in the several domestic avocations 
of the hospital. 

The Hospital Begetta, endowed 



PIEDMONT. ROUTE 90. TURIN. THEATRES. 



461 



in 1734 hy the banker whose name 
it preserves, is a branch of the 
charity ; the incurable, and those 
afflicted with contagious diseases, 
are admitted into the Begetta. 

The Hospital of St Maurice and 
Lazarus, which Duke Emanuel 
Philibert, in 1575, gave to his 
capital, was abolished upon the 
entry of the French into Piedmont, 
but afterwards re-established. Its 
government is confided to a Grand 
Cross of the Order of St Maurice 
and Lazarus, who assumes the title 
of Grand Hospitaller, and resides 
in the locality. 

The Hospitals La Maternite and 
St Louis merit particular atten- 
tion, as does the new Hospital of St 
Vincent de Paide, the existence of 
which is attributable to the Canon 
Cotolengo and other pious persons. 

The insane of both sexes have 
their respective asylums, where 
they are treated with all the care 
their calamity can lay claim to. 
We will not say so much of the 
soldiers in their hospital facing the 
arsenal. 

Theatres. — The Theatre Royal ad- 
joins the regal residence ; it gives 
no external evidence of its existence, 
but the interior is royally superb, 
more especially since the late reno- 
vations of that painter- architect, 
the Chevalier Pelagio Palagi. After 
La Scala, at Milan, and San Carlo, 
at Naples, the Turin theatre is the 
largest in Italy. It has six tiers of 
boxes ; the depth of the stage is 
105 Prench feet, and the other 
parts of the house are of propor- 
tionate grandeur. At the back of 
the stage is a court of twenty- four 
feet, from which, with the help of a 
drawbridge, horses and even car- 
riages can be brought upon the 
stage. This theatre is only opened 
during the carnival and on extra- 
ordinary occasions. Grand operas 
and ballets are performed. 

Although much smaller, the Thea- 
tre Cariynan may still be ranked 



among the best theatres of the 
second order ; it has a fine vesti- 
bule. 

J he Theatre Sutera is little, but 
its interior is gracefully arranged ; 
its entrance, however, is hardly 
wortiiy of any theatre. 

The Theatre Angennes, so named 
from its noble proprietor, has no 
outside show, hut the body of the 
house presents something passing 
mere show — richness, elegance, and 
good taste. In these two theatres 
are performed comic operas and 
the legitimate drama. 

Turin, moreover, possesses three 
theatres for the exhibition of pup- 
pets, mostly frequented by the 
common people. 

We will conclude with mention- 
ing the Philharmonic Academy, 
under the direction of Coccia, the 
composer, as well as other phil- 
harmonic and philodramatic estab- 
lishments, where young persons 
of both sexes are instructed in 
singing and declamation, and fre- 
quently give public representa- 
tions. 

The Citadel. — Turin was for 
merly surrounded with fortifica- 
tions, of which only the citadel 
remains. It was founded in 1363 
by Duke Emanuel Philibert, eight 
years after the victory of St Quen- 
tin. rran9ois Pacciotto displayed 
on this occasion all the resources 
of his art. The citadel is penta- 
gonal, with mines and counter- 
mines ; the details yield ample 
testimony of the genius of the 
engineer, the more especially so, 
when it is remembered this was 
the first citadel built in Europe ; 
its foundation preceded that of 
Anvers by two years. It was 
strengthened at different periods 
with various exterior defences by 
Guibert, Bertola, and other able 
Piedmontese officers. 

The different barracks, distri-, 
buted throughout the several quar- 
ters of Turin, for the militia and 
C 2 



462 



KOJRTHERN ITxVLT. — ROtTl3 90. ruJ-llS. DELICACIES. 



Koyal Guards, deserve a cursory 
inspection from the lovers of the 
military profession. 

The Arsenal. - This vast pile, 
which is to the south-east, and a 
little way from the citadel, was 
commenced by Charles Emanuel I, 
continued by his successor, Victor 
Amadeus II, and rebuilt with large 
additions by Charles Emanuel III, 
who confided the execution of the 
task to De Vincenti, the head of 
the Royal Artillery Corps 

The arsenal contains a school of 
metallurgy ; a depot of plans, in 
relief, of every description of an- 
cient and modern fortifications ; a 
chemical laboratory ; a cabinet of 
natural history; a cannon foundry; 
and a school of artillery, instituted 
by King Charles Emanuel III. 
Trophies, as well as ancient arms 
and armour, are artfully and very 
picturesquely disposed in one of 
the spacious halls. 

Several important establishments 
are dependent upon the arsenal, 
such as the barracks for the Royal 
Artillery Corps, which are in the 
same locality ; the school of artil- 
lery for practice at a mark, and 
indeed for every purpose relative 
to fire-arms ; a manufactory of 
arms ; a powder mill, &c. 

To avoid wearisome details we 
omit the notice of many scientific 
and learned bodies, and of a great 
number of ingenious manufactures. 
We must, however, invite the 
stranger to pay a visit to the royal 
manufactory of the park, and the 
large agriculturo-botanical estab- 
lishment of Messrs Burdin and Co , 
near the Porte Neuve, wliich is 
really worthy of the illustrious 
patronage it enjoys. The grounds 
contain the choicest collection of in- 
digenous and exotic plants and 
shrubs from countries the most 
remote, and arranged in the nicest 
order. 

The Cemetery of Campo Sanfo is 
a short distance from the city ; it 



is laid out in a style at once appro- 
priate and imposing. 

Climate. — The vicinity of the 
Alps exposes Turin to a rigorous 
climate during winter, but the 
spring is forward, and autumn, tlie 
most agreeable season in this coun- 
try, continues till the end of No- 
vember. The thermometer some- 
times falls down to twelve and 
even to fifteen degrees in winter, 
but in summer it rises to twenty- 
six and twenty-seven. The most 
prevalent diseases are : in winter, 
rheumatisms, pleurisies, peripneu- 
monies, and particularly obstinate 
bronchites ; in the spring, exan- 
thematous affections and inflamma- 
tions of the stomach ; in summer, 
apoplexies, gastrite and intermit- 
tent fevers. The air, although 
humid, is not insalubrious ; many 
cases of longevity are met with, 
and since the demolition of the 
high ramparts that surrounded the 
city, it has not suffered from epi- 
demics. 

Provisions and Delicacies. — The 
Turinese table is excellent. Meat, 
fish, vegetables, and laitage, are 
plentiful, and savoury beef costs 
only 26 centimes a pound; veal 33. 
The Piedmontise cookery, a culin- 
ary eclectism, joins the lightness, 
the delicacy of the Erench table, to 
the force and expression, if I may 
so say, of the Italian kitchen. The 
cuoco Piedmontese indicates the 
preparation of several very recom- 
mendable dishes. Rice is duly 
appreciated, and is gei^erally pre- 
pared in risotto as at Milan. Agno- 
lotti and tagliarini, kinds of patties, 
make very agreeable soups. 

The popular polenta is variously 
prepared in autumn and winter; 
sprinkled with truffles it is an ex- 
cellent dish. The stuffato, beef a 
la mode, very tender and full of 
gravy, is the base of a Piedmontese 
dinner. With regard to the poulet 
a la Marengo, improvise after the 
battle, for the First Consul, with 



PIEDMONT. — ROUTE 90. TURIN. COFFEE HOUSES. 



463 



oil as there was no butter, with 
mushrooms, white wine, and some 
crusts of bread that happened to be 
at hand, although of Piedmontese 
origin, yet victory has naturalised 
it as French. 

The trout furnished by the Alpine 
torrents are irreproachable. The 
stewed tench (carpionnata) of Turin 
are very relishing. There is nothing 
more delicate than the small thin 
eels, called lamprede, caught in the 
Po. After the passage of Mont St. 
Bernard, Napoleon, then marching 
to victory at Marengo, stopped at 
Turin, and some lamprede being 
served at dinner, he found them so 
delicious that he had the dish placed 
before him, ate the whole of its con- 
tents, and did not touch anything 
else. Since that time, whenever he 
passed through Turin, he never 
failed ordering a dish of these deli- 
cate fish to be served at his table. 

The celebrated grissin, a sort of 
grilled or double-baked bread, is 
the first surprise for the traveller in 
Italy, and is very agreeable and 
digestible, provided he has good 
teeth. It does not cost more than 
common bread, being generally sold 
for 19 cents a pound. 

The white truffles of Piedmont 
have been praised by the author of 
the ' Physiologic du GoM,' who 
describes them as having " un petit 
gout d'ail qui ne nuit point a leur 
perfection, parce qu'il ne donne lieu 
a aucun retour desagreable." For- 
merly, the French ambassador dis- 
patched a weekly messenger with 
a provision for the king's table. 
Louis XVIII. was one day regaling 
himself with some when the visit of 
his head physician was announced. 
" Well, Dr. Portal," said the king, 
" what do you think of truffles ? I'll 
wager you do not allow your patients 
to touch them," " Keally, sire, I 
consider them rather indigestible, 
and perhaps they should only be 
made use of as seasoning.". The 



king, with a solemn tone, imme- 
diately replied, parodying the cele- 
brated verse of Voltaire : — 



" Les truffes ne sont point ce qu'un vain 
peuple pense." 

The physician appeared rather 
disconcerted, but the king smiled 
and finished his truffles. Truffles 
a la Piedmontese is really an excel- 
lent and justly celebrated dish, and 
as it a little excites thirst it also 
procures the pleasure of enjoying the 
white wine of Asti, its general ac- 
companiment. But the triumph of 
the truffles of Piedmont is when 
served a la fonduta. 

The chocolates of Turin are the 
best of Europe. 

Piedmont produces several very 
good wines, the most noted are : 
the Barbera, the Barolo, and the 
Caluso. 

The liqueur Vermont, taken be- 
fore sitting down to table, is a very 
agreeable aperitive. 

Restaurateurs. — De I'Europe is 
the best. One may dine at a fixed 
price ; from 50 sous, to any price, or 
a la carte. 

Cafes. — The frequenting the caf6 
is very general in Turin, and as they 
are patronised not only by the rich 
idlers, but also by the highest func- 
tionaries, and even by the ministers, 
it has not, as yet, been voted de 
mauvais ton. 

The best coffee houses receive a 
considerable number of foreign and 
national papers, political, scientific, 
and literary, as well as the principal 
reviews, and thus supply the place 
of reading rooms. There are more 
papers published at Turin than in 
any other Italian city, Naples and 
Milan excepted. In 1845 there 
were seventeen publications. 

The caf^ Carlo^ in St. Carlo Square, 
and the cafe de Londres, in the rue 
de Po, are the most frequented ; the 



464 NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 90. TURIN. HORSE RACING. 



former is magnificent. A cup of 
coffee a la creme, very sweet and ex- 
cellent, costs only 6 sous ; a l^eau, 
4 sous; a cup of chocolate, 6 sous. 

The Confectioners keep liqueurs, 
fine wines, and excellent pastry, and 
their shops are much frequented by 
the fashionable world of Turin. 

The silks and velvets manufac- 
tured at Turin excellently imitate 
the productions of Lyons, and are 
frequently sold as such to their own 
prejudice. Turin is perhaps the 
first city of Italy for the elegance of 
its toilet and the fashionableness of 
its attire. French fashions and 
Parisian novelties are regularly im- 
ported, and, to employ the language 
of the Parisian milliners and shop 
girls, Us sont bien portes. 

Horses, — The Italian horse-race, 
the palio, with its poor spiritless 
barberi, is now abandoned at Turin 
for the races a I'Anglaise, which 
attract a great concourse of people 
and all the fashionable world. They 
take place about the end of May, 
on the" magnificent Piazza d'armi 
di San Secondo, and last three days. 

A Piedmontese racing club was 
organised in 1835, and was recon- 
stituted in 1840 for ten years. Ex- 
clusively of the prizes given by the 
club, they also distribute those 
granted by the king for the ameli- 
oration of the native breeds. Each 
subscriber has the right of running 
one horse per share. The total 
number of shares, of 200 frs. each, 
is fifty -five, thus making an annual 
income of 11,000 frs., from which a 
certain sum is reserved for the relief 
of the jockeys in case of any mis- 
fortune happening to them. The 
horses from the royal stud of the 
Venery are remarkable for their fine 
forms, even by the side of the Eng- 
lish horses that have hitherto ap- 
peared at these races. The swiftness 
of the coursers has lately increased ; 
the Piedmontese mile (2,446 metres) 
which at first took three minutes 



thirty-five or forty seconds, has 
lately been run over by native horses 
in three minutes twenty-two seconds. 
The following is a list of the 
prizes distributed annually at Tu- 



rin: — 



FIRST DAY. 



Metres. Prize. 
1st. A trot three times "j 1,000 frs. 

round the course | 500 

open to horses of }• 

all countries and I 

breeds - - 3,699 J 
2d. Two heats for the , 1,200 

royal prize given ) 500 

to native horses ( SoO 

only . - - 2,466 > 
3rd. Open to horses of "i 1,700 

^11 countries ex- > 600 

cept pure blood - 



J 



SECOND DAY. 



1st. 



Metres. Prize. 



Heat of native *| Silver cup. 

horses for a silver > Saddle, 

cup value 600 frs. 2,466 J 
~ s, 1 3,( 

\ 1,( 
- id. J 



cup 
2d. Heat of aU breeds 
pure blood in 
eluded 



3,500 
,000 



The race ground is honoured with 
the king's presence on the first twcj 
days ; the third day is destined for 
private bets and courses only. 

The fine, strong Sardinian horses 
cost about 600 frs. each on the con* 
tinent. The best come from the 
Tanca regia at Paulilatino, or from 
the studs of the Sig. Cav. Solinas, 
at Bannari, and Sig. Cav. Passino, 
at Chiaramonte. Some pretty little 
horses, called achette^ may be bought 
on the continent for 120 frs. each, 
and make most charming miniature 
equipages, well adapted for the 
equitation of children. 

The CAace.— The Palace Stu- 
pinis, a hunting rendezvous, was itt 
its kind the most splendid edified 
of Europe, and notably attested- 
the magnificence of the house of 
Savov. 



PIEDMONT. — BOUTE 90. TURIN. DILIGENCES. 



465 



The splendid, well-broken forest 
of Stupinis was, before the revolu- 
tion, the scene of the magnificent 
royal hunts, but since then nothing 
but shooting is allowed there. The 
preserves contain an immense quan- 
tity of pheasants, hares, and deer ; 
the torrent Sagone that crosses this 
forest attracts, in winter, a great 
number of wild ducks and wood- 
cocks. 

The forests depending on the 
ancient castle of the Venery are the 
largest of the environs of Turin, ex- 
tending as far as the mountains ; 
they contain a quantity of partridges, 
hares, and pheasants, drawn from 
the royal preserves at Raconic, the 
country seat of Charles Albert, and 
his only favourite residence during 
the two summer months. 

The fertility and excellent culti- 
vation of the Piedmontese plains 
naturally prevent their being a good 
sporting country. The little game 
that is sometimes met with cannot 
well increase, as there are two har- 
vests every year in the fields, and the 
meadows are regularly mown three 
times a year. Amateurs are thus 
obliged to look out for quails and 
woodcocks, and in dry summers they 
are disappointed even in this sport, 
the birds being then very scarce, as 
it has happened these last two or 
three years. 

The Post Office, — Letters to 
Genoa, Chiavari, Savona, Tuscany, 
the Papal States, the Two Sicilies, 
daily at noon ; Chambery, Geneva, 
the Swiss Cantons, France, the Low 
Countries, Great Britain and Ire- 
land, Spain, Portugal, &c., daily at 
three p.m. ; Nice, Vintimiglia, and 
the southern departments of France, 
the Austrian States of the north and 
east, &c,, daily at three p.m. ; 
Parma, Placentia, Modena, and 
Itiggio, Wednesday and Saturday, 
at noon ; for all foreign States, and 
the provinces of the kingdoms not 
indicated as above, Monday, Wed- 
nesday, and Friday, at three p.m. 



N.B. All letters to be sent off 
on Sundays, the feast of the Ascen- 
sion, Corpus Domini, the Holy Vir- 
gin, Christmas, and Easter, should 
be posted the previous evening at 
eight. 

Diligences leave the Sardinian 
office of Bonafous, brothers, Turin, 
for France, Monday, Wednesday, 
and Friday, at seven p.m. 

Chariots en poste, Tuesday, 
Thursday, and Saturday, at five 
p.m. 

Diligences for Milan, Monday, 
Wednesday, and Friday, at five 
p.m. ; for Genoa, Tuesday, Thurs- 
day, and Saturday, at five p.m. 

Malle-poste (conveying three per- 
sons) for Geneva, daily at four p.m. 
in 40 hours ; fares, 75 frs. 

Diligences leave, from Bonafous, 
brothers, for Genoa, Parma, Pla- 
centia, Eiggio, and Modena, daily. 

Velocifers, from Multa, brothers, 
for Novara and Arona, daily. 

Couriers, from Turin to Biella 
and Arona, daily ; for Biella, daily, 
excepting Sunday; for Alba Pom- 
peii, an ancient Roman city, daily ; 
for Pinarola, Susa, Casale,Vigevano, 
Asti, daily; for Lanale, Jassino, 
Chieri, Moncalieri, daily. 

Diligences arrive at Turin from 
France, Monday, Thursday, and 
Saturday, in the evening; chariots 
en poste on Wednesday, Thursday, 
and Sunday, in the evening ; dili- 
gences from Milan, Wednesday, 
Thursday, and Sunday ; and from 
Genoa, Wednesday, Thursday, and 
Sunday, early in the morning. 

Theatres. — Price of admission : — 



fr. c. 
To the Theatre Royal, which is open 

only during the Carnival . . 2 50 

— Carignano, open in the Autumn 1 60 

— Commedias, „ Simuner 80 

— Angennes , , Spring 1 20 

— Autumn and Carnival Conunedias 80 

— Suterra, in the Carnival . .10 



Principal Bookseller's, — Gianini 



466 



NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 90. TURIN. ENVIRONS. 



and Fiori, Bocca, Pio, Tuscanelli, 
Geneva. 

No regulations for hackney .car- 
riages. It is necessary to bargain 
with the proprietors. 

Passports. — The Sardinian go- 
vernment charge for the vise-ing 
passports, 4 frs. ; the annibassadors 
vise gratis. 

Public Exhibitions, <fec., are open ; 
Grallery of Arms, daily, from noon 
until two; Picture Galleries, Egyp- 
tian Museum, Numismatic Museum, 
Museums of Natural History, of 
Anatomy, daily, from ten a.m. to 
four p.m. 

Environs of Turin. — The en- 
virons afford too much gratification 
to the curiosity a,nd research of tra- 
vellers, to allow them to quit the 
city without some excursions in its 
neighbourhood. 

The walk to Valentin is unques- 
tionably one of the most delightful ; 
it is along alleys bordered with lux- 
uriant trees and babbling rivulets. 
At the extremity of the principal 
alley stands Valentin, a royal cha- 
teau, erected in 1660 by Catherine 
of France, and restored by the late 
king, Charles Felix. To the cha- 
teau is annexed a spacious and 
pleasant garden, as well as a botanic 
garden for the students of the uni- 
versity. This resort often presents 
a very animated appearance from 
its crowds of equipages and pedes- 
trians. 

Beyond the street of the Po, on 
the gentle slope of a hill, stands the 
Queen^s Vigne Ca country house in 
Piedmont is called a "vigne;" the 
word corresponds with the "villa" 
of the Italians, and the "bastide" of 
the Provencals). The apartments 
are tasteful and splendid ; there are 
some good pictures. 

To the right, crowning a delight- 
ful and far from fatiguing ascent, is 
the Church of the Capuchins. Its 
architecture presents nothing very 
remarkable, but the church has 



some valuable paintings, and its 
situation commands for its visitors 
a natural panorama of the city and 
adjacent plains ; the view even ex- 
tends to the foot of the mountains. 
Rarely in any part of the world is 
so fine a perspective to be met 
with. 

At some distance from Turin, 
after having crossed the bridge of 
the Po, and at the summit of a 
mountain, towers the magnificent 
temple of ia Super ga. Connected 
with it are the residences of the 
canons who perform the duties of the 
church. Juvarra called La Superga 
into existence by order of his royal 
master, Victor Amadeus, and in ful- 
filment of a vow to the Virgin made 
by that potentate when the French . 
raised the siege of Turin in 1706.^ 
The church has the form of an octa- 
gonal dome, supported by eight 
marble pillars ; the exquisitely ele- 
gant and tasteful chapels are very 
richly embellished. The vow of 
Victor Amadeus is the s xbject of a 
fine painting. In the hT:;g8 vaults 
of this temple are the sarcophagi 
and mausoleums, which hold the 
mortal remains of the sovereigns of 
Savoy and their kindred. The top 
of the cupola commands a prospect 
of the most varied and almost un- 
bounded character. 

La Vennerie, a royal chateau de 
plaisance, is near Turin; it is 
chiefly remarkable for its immense 
park, used for the manoeuvres of the 
horse artillery. 

Stupirgi, another royal chateau 
de plaisance, is two leagues from the" 
capital. It also was designed by 
Juvarra, by order of Charles Ema-, 
nuel II., and afterwards enlarged by 
Count Alfieri. The rooms of this 
chateau exhibit great splendour ; the 
late king, Charles Felix, selected it 
as his place of residence in 1825. It 
is embosomed in vast and delicious 
gardens, and in a large park, ap- 
propriated to the pleasures of the- 
chace. 



PIEDMON'T. ROUTE 91. TURIN TO ARONA. 



467 



Moncalieri, Rivoli. Racconiyi, and 
Gerone are royal maisons de plais- 
ance in the environs, which will 
aiFord sufficient recompense for the 
trouble of a visit. 

In the vicinity of Turin the land 
is carefully tilled, and with the very 
best results. The hiUs produce ex- 
cellent wines ; mulberry trees 
abomid, the silk of Piedmont being 
accounted the best in Italy. 



ROUTE 91. 

TURIN TO ARONA THROUGH 
GATTINARA. 



From Turin to Settimo 

— Chivasso 

* — Cigliano - 

— San Germano - 



Postes. 

- 2 

- H 

- 2i 

- 2h 



Postes montees 



— Buronzo, '\ 

— Romagnano, I Where relays are not 

— Borgomanero, i always procurable. 

— Arona, J 

The post road runs through Ver- 
celli and Novara. 

Leaving Turin by the bridge 
over the Doria, and afterwards 
crossing that of the Stura, the first 
post station is 

Settimo ; — the other places in the 
route are attained in the order in 
which they are named. 

Brandizzo, a few miles from Set- 
timo, is a village lying between the 
torrents of Bondola and Malonetta, 
the neighbourhood of which has 
often been productive of fatal cala- 
mities. 

Chivasso, a very ancient town on 
the left bank of the Po. In spite 
of the barrenness of the soil, no 
small commercial activity prevails 
among the industrious inhabitants 
(amounting at present to 7,800). 
The geographical position of Chi 
vasso subjected it in other times to 
the ravages of long and bloody 
wars. 

Rondisso7ie, a rather important 



little town, with an increasing po- 
pulation of 2,500. 

Cigliano, which is somewhat 
larger, as it numbers 4,000 souls, is 
on the left bank of the Doria Baltea, 
in a large and fertile plain. 

Alice hes between the last-named 
place and Germano. 

Santhia, a town with 3,100 inha- 
bitants. Santhia gave birth to Fa- 
cino Cani, a famous warrior of the 
fifteenth century, and to Jacob Du- 
rond, the distinguished writer. 

After crossing, by convenient 
bridges, two rivers which rush 
from Mont Sordevoli, the Avo and 
the Cervo, and passing through the 
pretty village of Buret' zo, 

Gattinara is reached ; a rather 
considerable town, the district pro- 
ducing excellent wines ; population, 
3,600. 

Romagnano, which is very popu- 
lous, stands on the banks of the 
Sesia. La its neighbourhood are 
two sanctuaries, which may weU be 
designated the most remarkable in 
Upper Italy ; those of Madonna 
d'Oropa and Madonna del Sacro 
monte di Varallo. 

La Madonna d'Oropa is attached 
to the busy little city of 

Biella, where the manufacture of 
woollen cloth, linen, and paper, is 
carried on by the citizens, who 
amount to 7,000. It is south-west 
of Romagnano. From BieUa, a 
two-hours' walk leads to the brow 
of a moimtain from which gushes 
the torrent Oropa, whence the name 
of the sanctuary. There, on a gen- 
tle dechvity, stands an immense 
quadrangular edifice, its ample 
court surrounded with pillars. The 
church itself is small, but very ela- 
borate ; in it is preserved a statue 
of the Virgin, carved out of Lebanon 
cypress, and transported, it is said, 
from Palestine. It is the object of 
great veneration to the whole vici- 
nity. Diamonds and precious stones 
are lavished on the vestments of 
this sumptuously -attired figure ; 



468 



NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 91. TURIN TO ARONA. 



besides which the sacerdotal orna- 
ments, and, indeed, all the objects 
required for public worship, are of 
the richest description ; the rooms 
in which these possessions are de- 
posited are very justly called the 
treasury. At the sight of this gi- 
gantic structure, raised on this lofty 
height, the mind is struck with the 
contemplation of the toil and the 
cost its erection must have entailed. 
As no building materials are at 
hand, everything, from the bulkiest 
to the most minute, has been drag- 
ged up the long ascent. In addi- 
tion to the rooms occupied by the 
twenty canons attached to the 
sanctuary. La Madonna d'Oropa 
contains a beautiful suite of apart- 
ments reserved for the King of Sar- 
dinia, another, not less spacious, for 
the Bishop of Vercelli, and cham- 
bers numerous enough to afford 
gratuitous accommodation to 4,000 
persons at the epoch of the solemn 
festivals. Every century a sacred 
jubilee is held in the sanctuary ; it 
lasts eight days. During this time 
all the religious ceremonies are 
conducted to music, which eight of 
the most eminent composers of the 
day (invited thither for the purpose) 
have expressly produced for these 
sacred rites. The last solemnization 
was in 1825 ; the number attracted 
to it has been estimated at 50,000. 
It may not be thought improper 
here to state that there is a well- 
conducted inn for the accommoda- 
tion of visitors. 

On the slopes of the mountain, 
as the Sanctuary is approached, 
are several chapels, highly orna- 
mental, and affording representa- 
tions of events in Holy Writ. 

The Sanctuary of Varallo, though 
it cannot be called stupendous like 
that of Oropa, is more distinguished 
for statues and paintings. It is 
north-west of Romagnano, and is 
composed of a church and forty- 
two chapels, disposed at intervals. 
In these the leading acts of the 



Saviour's life upon earth are figured 
forth in coloured stucco and in 
frescoes, by artists of high repute — 
among others by Gaudence Ferrari. 
There is a grand composition on 
the wall of the Monk's church at 
the foot of Mont Sacre, the mas- 
terpiece of the same Ferrari. 

The frescoes are, for the most 
part, in good preservation, and are 
conspicuous for that combination 
of grandeur and facility, in the 
thought and the execution, so sel- 
dom acquired, yet so characteristic 
of the old masters. Those rare 
attributes were once so common, 
that the many churches and cha- 
pels scattered here and there among 
these quiet hiUs and vales almost 
all contain frescoes of such perfec- 
tion, as to excite wonder as well asi 
admiration. The sanctuary derives 
its name from its proximity to 

Varallo, a small town, with a 
population of 3,000, to which a 
beautiful road along tlie left bank, 
of the Sesia conducts, leading! 
thence to 

Grugnasco, where the village 
church has recently been renovated 
in a manner both elegant and ela- 
borate ; the road then traverses 

JBoreo Sesia, a district with ai 
population equal in number to tliati 
of the town of Varallo ; it contains* 
a good paper miU belonging tO' 
Avondo, brothers ; indeed these 
mills are discerned sometimes on 
the banks of the Sesia, sometimes 
in the heart of lofty mountains. . 

On resuming the route from Eo- 
magnano, the first village is 

Curegio, where both in the church 
and the villa Carcano may be seen 
some beautiful antique remains. 

JBorgomanero, situated between 
the two northern extremities of the 
lakes Maggiore and Orta, is a 
large town, peopled by about 7,000 ; 
it is in the province of Kovara. 
From Borgomanero to Arona h- 
five miles of good road. (For a de- 
scription of Arona, see page 440.) 



PIEDMONT. — ROUTE 92. TrillN TO MILA>^ BY KOVAEA. 



469 



ROUTE 92. 

TUHIN TO MILAN THKOUGH NOVARA. 

Postes. 

From Turin to St Germane - - &i 

— Vercelli 1| 

— Orfengo - - - - - ij 

— Novara - - - - - li 

— Magenta ----- 2 

— St Pietro all' Olmo - - - 0| 

— Milan ----- ij 

Postes - '17 

From Turin to Cigliano, see p. 39. 

Without stopping to notice the 
towns of Trouzaro and St Germano, 
or the hamlet of Quinto, we proceed 
to the next post station, which 
it at 

Vercelli (Hotel, La Posta), a city 
of considerable note, occupying a 
pleasant elevation near the con- 
fluence of the Cervio and the 
Sesia. 

Justin assigns the foundation to 
Bellevesus, 603 years before the po- 
pular era. VerceUi had attained 
some importance in the middle ages, 
for it was not unfrequently visited 
by the popes and emperors. In the 
adjoining plain Marius gained his 
great victory over the Cimbri, b. c. 
101. 

The streets of Vercelli are broad 
and regular, and it boasts public 
buildings of no common order. The 
cathedral is modern, and includes 
two handsome chapels, where the 
body of St Eusebius, the protector 
of the city, is an object of reverence ; 
also that of Amadeus the Fortu- 
nate, of the house of Savoy. Here, 
too, is preserved a precious MS. of 
the fourth century, being the Holy 
Evangile according to St Mark, in 
Latin. The church of St Christo- 
pher is in possession of some good 
pictures, particularly frescoes by 
Gaudence Ferrari. The vaulted 
roof of the church of St Mary Ma- 
jor is upheld by forty marble pil- 
lars ; on the pavement, also of mar- 
ble, are depicted the principal inci- 
dents in the life of St Judith. The 



church of St Ambrose is by no 
means undeserving of notice. The 
theatre is of a somewhat severe 
style, but the disposition of the in- 
terior is excellent. The new ca- 
valry barracks, the cemetery, the 
museum, the botanic garden, and 
lastly, the jubilee palace. Vercelli 
also enjoys some laudable institu- 
tions for humane purposes ; the 
great hospitals, the hospital of 
Charity, where indigent boys and 
girls are maintained and instructed, 
a mount of Piety, &c. 

The libraries of the chapter and 
the agnesiara should not be forgot- 
ten. The well-earned reputation of 
the medical school ensures it a great 
number of students. The trade of 
Vercelli is principally in rice, hemp, 
flax, corn, wine, cabinet work, silk, 
'&c. The country about VerceUi 
abounds in rice plantations, and from 
April to September resembles one 
extended marsh; the humidity thus 
caused is somewhat hurtful to the 
salubrity of the cUmate. The po- 
pulation is computed at 18,000. 

After leaving this city and cross 
ing the Sesia by a wooden bridge, 
Borgo VerceUi is passed, and the 
first relay is at 

Orfengo, a place with 1,500 in- 
habitants ; it is succeeded by 

Pellrengo, an insignificant viUage. 
A short distance from it the Agogna 
is left behind, a river which under 
Napoleon gave its name to a de- 
partment of the ItaUan kingdom 
A little time brings the traveller 
to 

Novara. — Hotels, Pesce (T Oro ; de 
Tre Re. This is a very ancient 
city, agreeably situate on the easy 
decUvity of a smaU hiU. Its position 
is one of its main advantages, as it 
Ues in the very centre of the great 
highways from France into Italy, 
and from Genoa to the Simplon, and 
into Switzerland. In the time of 
the Romans Novara enjoyed a high 
consideration. Tacitus classes it 
among the most important munici- 



470 



NORTHERN ITALT. — ROUTE 92. TURIN TO MILAN. 



palities of Transpadane Gaul. It 
is, moreover, frequently mentioned 
by Pliny, Suetonius, Cato, and 
Antoninus. At the period when 
nearly all the Italian cities consti- 
tuted republics, Novara was re- 
garded as one of the best organised, 
and when the famous Peace of Con- 
stance was signed, it had prece- 
dence of Milan. Civil wars deso- 
lated it for many years ; and it 
passed successively under the sway 
of the Torriani, to whom the 
dominion was voluntarily yielded, 
the Visconti, and the Sforza. During 
this epoch Novara was the theatre 
of many a bloody drama of sorrow- 
ful celebrity. It is now a portion 
of the kingdom of Sardinia, and the 
chief station of a military division. 
Although neither large nor popu- 
lous (its circuit being a French 
mile and a half, and its population, 
including the faubourgs, 16,000), it 
yet has many claims to notice and 
admiration. 

The antiquity of the cathedral 
rivals that of the church of St Am- 
brose at Milan ; and even in our 
days is a true type of a basilica 
of the earliest ages of the Catholic 
church. Suitable embellishments 
and repairs have lately been effected. 
Thorswaldsen has ennobled the 
principal altar with his works ; so 
have Marchesi, Monti, Somaine, 
Manfredina, and others. The paint- 
ings in the chapel excite general 
admiration ; they are by Gaudence 
Ferrari, Gilardini, Lanino, Cesare 
de Sesto, Nuvolone, &c. The 
chapter of the cathedral has always 
been jealous of entrusting the 
chapel music to any but classic 
composers. After the death of 
Generali, in 1834, Mercadante dis- 
charged the duties of that office, 
and when he was appointed direc- 
tor of the Royal Conservatory at 
Naples, he was succeeded by 
Coccia. 

Near the cathedral is a superb 
mausoleum, an emanation from the 



genius of Christopher Solari, called 
Gobbo. 

Perhaps the church of St Gau- 
dentius is the most distinguished 
work of Pellegrini, and as if his 
construction had not suflScient mag- 
nificence, it is further augmented 
by the contributions of Gaudence 
Ferrari, Nuvolone, Moncalvo, Leg- 
noni, and Sabatelli. Over a new j 
altar is a very spirited painting by 
a living artist, Palagi. 

The Great Hospital occupies the 
first place among the establish- 
ments of a charitable nature ; it is 
exceedingly well conducted, and 
enjoys a considerable revenue. 
There are other endowments for 
the benefit of the poor and desti- 
tute, directed with zeal and ability: 
the Hospital nf St Julian, the Insii' 
tute nf Arts and Trades, founded by 
the late Countess Bellini, and a 
similar institute, the foundation of 
the Chevalier Gaudence de Pagave. 

The public establishments are not 
very numerous. The theatre has 
been lately repaired, luxuriously 
enough ; the public walks and the 
gate of the VerceUi road are much 
commended. 

The place of the theatre is 
adorned with a colossal marble 
statue of King Charles Emanuel 
III, by the Chevalier St Marchesi. 

The market is a large structure 
with extensive piazzas. The vesti- 
bule, leading to the exchange and 
to the noble staircase, is rendered 
highly ornamental with statues of 
four famous Italians — Verri, Gioja, 
Romagnosi, and Beccaria, by Monti, 
Somaino, and Argenti. 

We must also mention the 
palaces of Bellini, Cacciapiatti, 
Nattas Isola (the last the ordinary 
residence of the governor), and 
finally the palace Leonardi. 

The trade of Novara is brisk ; 
corn and rice are the staple articles. 
The fairs held in the city are also 
favourable to its prosperity. 

Novara, and the province of 



PIEDMONT. — ^ROUTE 93. TURIN TO MILAN. 



471 



vhich it may be called the capital, 
have been the cradle of many illus- 
trious men ; among others, of Pierre 
Lombardi, Gaudence Ferrari, the 
astronomer Campano, Mazzola, 
Zanoja, and the celebrated surgeon, 
Palletta. 

Six miles beyond Novara is 

Trecate, which must be passed 
through to arrive at the Dogana di 
St Martino, a modern building,where 
travellers from Lombardy must 
submit their effects to the investi- 
gation of the custom-house officers 
before entering Piedmont. 

Near this place is one of those 
monuments which call forth inex- 
haustible admiration — a stone 
bridge flung with as much boldness 
as solid elegance across the Tesin, 
a river which forms the frontier 
line between Piedmont and Lom- 
bardy. This bridge, accounted the 
noblest in Italy, consists of eleven 
huge arches, at the termination of 
each of which are built two small 
houses, of the same stone, supply- 
ing places of residence to the 
custom-house officers and the toll- 
takers. 

At a short distance is the canal, 
over which is a neat bridge, and to 
the left are newly -built offices for 
the convenience of the officers of 
the customs, and for vise-ing the 
passports of travellers going into 
the Lombardo-Yenetian kingdom. 
A short way further is 

Magenta, a well-built town, with 
3,400 inhabitants. In the twelfth 
century it was of such consequence 
that Frederick I, unwilling to leave 
it behind him, carried it by storm. 

Sedriono is not a town of very 
remote existence, since it arose from 
the resort of the Lombard kings, 
who passed part of their antumns 
in this locality. 

From St Pietro AW Olmo it is 
eight miles to 

Milan, entered by the VerceUina 
gate. — See Table of Contents, 



EOUTE 93. 

TURIN TO MILAN THROUGH CASALE. 



From Turin to Settino 

— Chivasso 

— Crescentino 

— Trino 

— Casale 

— Mortara - 

— Vigevano 

— Abbiategrasso 

— Milan 



Postes. 
2 

H 

H 

II 

2 
191 



Starting for Chivasso (already 
described, p. 39), and pursuing the 
south-east road on the left bank of 
the Po, a hill is discerned, on 
which stands 

Crescentino, the past history of 
which is very interesting. Popula- 
tion, 5,500. 

On the opposite shore is Verrud, 
reached by leaving on one side the 
village Monten Dipo. Casale may 
also be attained through Verrua and 
Gabbiano, along the right bank of 
the Po. 

From Crescentino the road ad- 
vances to 

Trino, a town of 8,000 souls ; it, 
however, offers nothing very attrac- 
tive beyond its connexion with past 
history. 

Casale comes next, once well for- 
tified, more commonly called Casale 
Monferrato, to distinguish it from 
other cities and towns of the same 
name, and also because it was the ca- 
pital of the dachy of Monferrat. It is 
also known as Casale di St Evastius, 
a bishop of that name, whose body 
was flung into a well, having suf- 
fered martyrdom there in thefourtli 
century. The duchy of Monferrat 
passed successively from the Paleo- 
logi to the Gonzagi, from them to 
France, and ultimately to the reign- 
ing house of Savoy. It will readily 
be conceived that these changes 
were not effected without the 
horrors and sufferings of war. 

Casale is raised on the ruins of 
the old city of Sedula. Among 



472 NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 93. TURIN TO MILAN BY CASALE. 



other churches of note are the very 
ancient cathedral, where, in a 
chapel set off with precious mar- 
bles, is preserved the body of St 
Evastius, the patron of the city ; 
St Catherine, and Our Lady of 
Sorrows (both of the round form) ; 
the Barnabites, and the Domini- 
cans. This last is the burial place 
of the historian Bienvenu de St 
Georges. Among the finest palaces 
are those of Gazzani de Treville, St 
Giorgio della Valli (in which are 
frescoes by Julio Romano), Gam- 
bara, and Grisella The college, 
the theatre, and the corn maga 
zine, near the gate of the Po, 
deserve notice. 

The population is 20,000, com- 
prising a good many Jews. The 
trade is principally in wine and 
silk. The ramparts are shaded with 
large chestnut trees, and afford an 
agreeable promenade. 

One peculiarity distinguishes 
Casale and its environs — the fact 
that sturgeons are frequently caught 
in the Po ; the proper resort of the 
sturgeon is considered to be the 
sea, but the fish leaves the Adriatic 
to ascend this long distance up a 
fresh-water river. 

From Casale to Alexandria the 
road turns southward, and skirts 
the right side of the Po as far as 
Valenza ; but to proceed to Milan 
the Po is to be crossed, then the 
Sesia, near its junction with the 
Po, and en route is 

Candla, a large village defended 
by a castle, which played a marked 
part in the wars of the eighteenth 
century ; it is reputed the cradle of 
Pope Alexander V. 

Cozzo comes next. A little be- 
yond is the castle of Agogna, so 
called from its situation on the 
river of that name ; two miles fur- 
ther a relay is procured at 

MorLara, a commercial and pros- 
perous town, in spite of a degree of 
unwholesomeness communicated to 
the atmosphere by the numerous 



rice grounds Population, 5,300. 
On this spot Charlemagne gained 
a brilliant victory over the Lom- 
bards, whose king, Didier, was 
taken prisoner. The name of Mor- 
tara is attributable to the numbers 
of dead left upon this field of battle. 

To the right of the road is the 
opulent town of 

Gambolo, which numbers 5,000 
souls. Here may be seen one of 
the best works of Bernardin Campi 
in a fine church, founded by the 
Cardinal Archange Bianchi, who 
was a native of Gambolo. Terdop- 
pio is the name of the torrent flow- 
ing near this town. 

Vigevario is an ancient city on 
the right bank of the Ticino, count- 
ing about 12,000 souls. The royal 
and communal schools would, be- 
yond contradiction, be regarded an 
enhancement of the architectural 
excellence of any great capital. 
The Marquis Marceau Saporiti, of 
Genoa, not only contributed the 
ground, but the cost of this splen- 
did erection as it now appears. The 
fa§ade is of red granite, with six 
columns, each from a single block, 
and three feet in diameter, uphold- 
ing a pediment, wrought with floral 
ornaments in bas-relief, and carved 
pedestals, bearing statues. The 
bas-reliefs of the pediment are mar- 
ble. The cavalry barrack is one of 
the most perfect and capacious in 
all Piedmont. Perhaps the most 
creditable of the public establish- 
ments is the House of Refuge and 
Industry for the destitute of Vige- 
vano, and its district ; it was not in 
operation until 1832. The cathe- 
dral, which has been repaired, is 
situate in an extensive place, sur- 
rounded with broad piazzas ; it 
should be visited by connoisseurs, 
for it contains some excellent paint- 
ings and frescoes by Saletta. 

The traveller ought to make a 
little digression to Sforresca, a large 
estate and maison de plaisance in 
the territory of Vigevano, formerly 



PIED3IONT. ROUTE 94. TUKI>- TO GENOA- 



473 



an appurtenance to the ducal family 
of that name ; its last proprietor, 
the Marquis Saporiti, added ma- 
terially to its beauty. 

At a trifling distance from Vige- 
vano enter Lombardy ; a movable 
bridge yields a passage over the 
Ticino, and after half an hour's 
progress reach 

Abbiategrasso, a town with 4,000 
occupants, in the province of Milan, 
where are some nice churches, and 
genteel private houses. The House 
of Refuge, dependent on the great 
hospital of Milan, is, however, its 
principal ornament. From hence 
the road coasts along the canal, and 
traverses successively the villages 
of 

Gaggiano and Corsica ; the latter 
enjoys an active trade in the 
cheese sold for Parmesan, and 
called in Italy Grana cheese. Four 
miles further 

Milan is entered by the Ticenisi 
gate. For Milan see Table of Con- 
tents. 





ROUTE 94. 




URIN TO GENOA THROUGH ALKS 


ANDRIA AND NOVI. 






Postes 


From Turin to TruiFarello 


- 1| 




, Poirino 


- u 




, Dusino 


- ll 




, Gambetta 






, Asti . - - 


- 4 




, Annone 


- i| 




, Felizzano 


- A 




, Alexandria 




, Novi . - - 


- H 




, Arquato - * - 


- H 




, Ronco . - - 


- 2 




, Ponte Decimo 


- H 




, Genoa - - - 


- 2 



24^ 

Crossing the Po from Turin, by a 
bridge opposite the queen's vigne, 
and pursuing a good, well- terraced 
road, the traveller passes Valentin, 
descried on the opposite side. A 
league farther is 

Montcatier, a superior town, in 
enjoyment of a well tempered cli- 
mate, and noticeable for its superb 



gardens, its royal chateau, built on 
an elevation, and a weekly market 
much frequented. The population 
is not less than 5,600. 

Truffarello (the first relay), is a 
village of secondary importance, 
from whence it is customary to 
make an excursion to 

C/iieri, a wealthy and populous 
town (12,000), well built in an 
agreeable plain, possessing a neat 
church, a gate in the form of a tri- 
umphal arch, and several ancient 
monuments. 

The second change of horses 
takes place at 

Poirino, a village of consequence, 
as its inhabitants are now 5,000 ; it 
is on the left bank of the Ronna. 

Villa Nova being passed through, 
the third relay is at 

Dusino, well known for the many 
vineyards in its district. A little 
beyond is 

Gambetta. On the side of a pleas- 
ing hill is seen the village of 

Villa Novi <fAsti, which com- 
mands the road, and presents a 
picturesque aspect. Here the road 
enters the chain of little hills con- 
tinuous with those of Turin, on the 
loftiest of which rises the Superga, 
discernible about six leagues dis- 
tant. These hills are watered with 
divers small torrents precipitating 
themselves into the Tanaro. On 
the left bank of that river is 

Asti, known to antiquity as an 
independent Ligurian colony, pass- 
ing eventually into the hands of 
the Romans. The Lombards formed 
it into a duchy, which devolved 
upon Autari and Pertarito, before 
they assumed the kingly title. At 
later periods Charlemagne gave it 
to Count Lorico, and Berengarius 
to the Marquis Aleramo. Like the 
other cities of Italy, however, it 
was formed into a republic, and 
figures in the mediaeval history of 
Lombardy ; but it soon became the 
prey of the Emperor Barbarossa. 
After some years of subsequent 



474 



NORTHERN ITALY. ROUTE 94. TUI.IN TO GENOA. 



freedom, it was subdued by the 
Visconti ; and was afterwards the 
dowry of Valentina, whom her fa- 
ther, John Galeazzo, bestowed in 
marriage upon the Duke of Or- 
leans. It was subject to France 
down to the peace of Cambray, by 
the conditions of which it passed 
under the sway of the Emperor 
Charles V, who presented it to his 
sister-in-law, Beatrice, the wife of 
Charles III, Duke of Savoy. Since 
that period, with occasional excep- 
tions resulting from the vicissitudes 
of war, it has appertained to the 
reigning dynasty. 

Asti is encompassed with large 
and mouldering walls, which em- 
brace an extent almost equal to 
that of Turin. The population 
(taking it at 24,200) by no means 
corresponds with this capacious- 
ness, which, however, is in some 
measure filled up with gardens. It 
was formerly defended with a hun- 
dred towers, but hardly thirty 
remain, and those fast falling into 
ruin. The quarter where the 
wealthier classes reside is commo- 
diously built, but the streets are 
generally narrow. The cathedral, 
covering, it is stated, the site of a 
temple of Diana, is modern, and 
possessed of some good paintings. 
The churches of Notre Dame (called 
also La Consolata) and St Bartlio- 
lomew, which stand out of the 
city, are well worthy of a visit. As 
much may be said for the Sanc- 
tuary of the Madonna del Portone, 
and for the church of St Secondo, 
the patron saint of the city, whose 
fete is annually celebrated with 
grand spectacles, and attracts all 
the neighbouring people. The 
palaces of Roero, Masetti, Bas- 
sagni, Frinco, the Theatre Alfieri, 
and the House of Invalids, display 
respective merits. 

Asti has given birth to many 
illustrious men, among others of 
genius no less than Victor Alfieri's, 
whose house is still to be seen. 



Silk, and effervescing red and 
white wines, of high reputation, are 
the chief articles of trade. 

By taking the route to the 
right, towards the south-east, the 
traveller may visit the famous 
baths of Acqui. 

Successively leaving behind the 
hamlet of Annone, the towns of 
Felizzaro and Solero, arrive at 

Alexandria of the Straw {Hotel 
d'ltaly,) a city so called from 
having been built in honour of 
Pope Alexander III, and the houses 
having been first thatched with 
straw from motives of economy. It 
stands between the rivers Tanaro 
and Bormida, in a barren territory, 
and is attained by a very curious 
covered bridge over the Tanaro, 
and along a wide straight street to 
the place. Alexandria exhibits 
nothing remarkable beyond the 
churches of St Alexander and St 
Lawrence, the market house, and 
the theatre (both modern). Its 
greatest renown is derived from the 
advanced works and forts which 
encompass it — from the inner de- 
fences, the citadel, and especially 
the command of the Tanaro by 
means of sluices ; these elevate it 
into the very first rank of fortified 
cities. The numerous assaults 
Alexandria has sustained — audits 
position involved it in almost every 
war that raged in Italy — are mat- 
ters of historical notoriety. Proba- 
bly, if the fortifications which were 
commenced had been carried to a 
proper termination, this city would 
be cited as a model of military 
architecture. 

The promenades are confined to 
the public place and to the ram- 
parts, which are shaded with 
acacias. The population is 38,000. 

From Alexandria, a road inclin- 
ing to the south-east traverses a 
portion of the immense Plain of St 
Julian, so well known as the scene 
of the great battle of Marengo, and 
the death of Dessaix, in 1800. The 



SARDINIA. — ROUTE 94. NOVI. GENOA, 



416' 



petty village which has given its 
name to the conflict is left to the 
right. Here is nothing to arrest 
the eye, neither woods nor orchards, 
hardly are a few vineyards to be 
detected, but the plain extends 
beyond the powers of vision, and 
looks as if formed by na,ture for 
the grander evolutions of the dire- 
ful game of war. 

The abbey of the Benedictines, 
called del Posco, between Alexan- 
dria and Novi, should be visited, for 
independently of its paintings, it is 
enriched with sculptures by Michael 
Angelo. 

Novi (European Hotel), a city of 
10,000 souls, presents an appearance 
little picturesque. It is at the foot 
of the Appenniues, and once pos- 
sessed a castle of some importance, of 
which only a single tower now re- 
mains; it crowns a height, and is 
distinguished for its elevation. Al- 
though indifferently built, Novi is 
not deficient in handsome hotels, to 
which the Genoese resort in the 
autumn. 

It was at the famous battle fought 
near Novi in 1799, that the French 
General Joubert fell. 

The commerce is chiefly • in cloth 
and silk ; the white silk, especially, 
enjoys a high character. 

On quitting Novi, the old route 
is abandoned for that of the So- 
chetta, which compensates its diffi- 
culties by the many interesting 
points of view it presents. Pursuing 
this new and rather longer direction 
successively through 

Seravalle, Arquato, Ronco, Ponfe, 
and Si. Pier d^ Arena, a faubourg of 
Genoa, where noble palaces and 
sumptuous gardens enchant the eye 
in such quick succession that it is 
hard to avoid the conviction that 
this mxigt be 

GENOA. 

Hotels : Croix de Malta, an ex- 
cellent, well-conducted house. A 
table d'hote at four o'clock. Mr. 



Pernette has a silver filigree esta- 
blishment adjoining the hotel. 

Hotel Feder, facing the port, a 
large, well-furnished house ; a table 
d'hote every day at four or five 
o'clock, according to the season, 
price 3 frs. ; beds, from 2 frs.; 
French, German, and Galignani's 
newspapers, and lots of musquitoes. 

Hotel de Londres, a spacious, de- 
lightfully-situated house ; a large 
and airy salle-a-manger, supplied 
with good dinners, at moderate 
prices ; clean rooms and civility. 

In addition to the above there are 
the Four Nations, Royal, and several 
others, but without doulit the three 
mentioned are the best, all fronting 
the bay. 

Genoa is what is called a portct 
franco, that means, where mer- 
chandize maybe warehoused without 
duty, and again exported ; for in- 
stance, velvets, silks, or any other 
article for which Genoa is celebrated 
may be imported from Marseilles, 
and reshipped and sent to London as 
the manufacture of Genoa; ladies 
who are fond of purchasing velvet 
dresses, should be recommended to 
a dealer by the proprietor of the 
hotel. 

The Office of the English Consul 
is removed to the left side of the 
Theatre Square. Office hours from 
9 till 3. 

Bankers. Messrs. Gibbs, remark- 
ably civil to all persons with whom 
they do business. Medical men, Mr. 
Bunnett and Mr. Dupp. General 
agency. Mr. Murray or his traveller, 
(who that distinguished individual is, 
does not appear, as Sir Francis Pal- 
grave has been dismissed, according 
to the notice in the second edition of 
Northern Italy,) has intimated that 
on the subject of hiring vetturini or 
any thing else, the best plan is to 
apply to the Vice Consul Barchi. 
Now we have the best authority for 
stating, that this gratuitous insertion 
is without the sanction of Signer 
Barchi, who with every disposition 



476 



NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 94. GENOA. 



to assist strangers in Genoa with his 
adv^ice, repudiates this unceremonious 
style of using his name. 

Although Genoa possessed in for- 
mer times territories which exceeded 
the modern limits of Liguria, its au- 
thority now extends over only six 
provinces, forming that division of 
the Sardinian dominions of which the 
city is considered the capital. These 
provinces are Albenga, Bobbio, Chi- 
avari, Levante, orSpezzia, Novi, and 
Savona, and which are again subdi- 
vided into two hundred and seventy- 
two communes. 

The extent of the city itself 
(within the limits of the fortifica- 
tions, which form an extent of about 
four leagues) is, from north to south, 
five thousand seven hundred and 
ninety-six yards, and, from east to 
west, about four thousand and nine 
yards. The total area is one thou- 
sand seven hundred and ninety-five 
acres, of which about three hundred 
and twenty-seven are level ground, 
and the remainder is more or less 
hilly, with a population of 144,000 
inhabitants. 

The aspect of Genoa from the sea, 
though it bears no resemblance to 
Naples, is perhaps not inferior in 
beauty to that of any other Italian 
city. The hills of Carignano on the 
east, and of St. Benigno on the west, 
joined by the intervening mountains, 
form a splendid ampitheatre, in the 
centre of which Genoa is built ; while 
the rich and varied appearance of the 
buildings of the city, the port, and 
the numberless villas of the neighbour- 
hood, combine to fill up the scene. 

On the one side of the city is the 
torrent of the Bisagno, which, 
though dry during the summer 
heats, becomes a furious and over- 
whelming stream in the rainy season. 
On the other is the Polcevera, 
equally violent, and oftentimes com- 
mitting the most disastrous ravages 
in its headlong course to join the sea. 
The former washes the foot of the 
hills of Albaro, and the latter passes 



by the extremity of San Pierre 
d'Arena — two suburbs, which have 
ever been selected by the inhabitants 
as affording the most delightful places 
of retreat. The banks of the Pol- 
cevera, in particular, are of the 
most beautiful and romantic de- 
scription, being feathered down, on 
each of their sides, with continued 
woods of the chestnut and ilex, 
while the rich and varied foliage of 
the arbutus, the heaths, and the 
myrtle, join to complete this lovely 
view. 

From the natural circumstances 
of the soil of this state, it is only 
by dint of continued care and 
labour that cultivation is brought 
to any degree of perfection ; and, 
not being constituted by nature for 
an agricultural district, it does not 
offer sufficient resources for the 
maintenance of its rural population. 
Numbers of the inhabitants from 
the mountains, and other parts of 
the state, have from time to time 
been forced to seek subsistence in 
foreign countries, and, at the pre- 
sent day, an extensive emigration 
of the Genoese peasantry is making 
for South America, and principally 
Buenos Ayres. While, however, 
the aridity of the mountains pre- 
vents the cultivation of the vine 
from being abundant, the heat of 
the climate contributes to make the 
wine produced, in certain favoured 
situations, of excellent quality. 
The wines of Casena were known 
and highly esteemed even in the 
time of the Romans ; those of Cinque 
Terre, near Spezzia, were more in 
repute in former days than now, 
when the cultivators are more anxi- 
ous about the quantity than the 
quality of their produce. It is from 
the hills along the course of the 
Polcevera that Genoa is nqjv sup- 
plied with wine of good flavour and 
at a moderate price; but the best 
wines that are found at the tables 
of the wealthier inhabitants are all 
of French growth. 



SAKDINl.V. ROUTE 94. GEJTOA. COSTUMES OF THE INHABITAXTS. 477 



One of the principal products 
which constitute the riches of 
Genoa is the oil made from its 
olive trees. These are not culti- 
vated so much in the immediate 
neighbourhood of the city, as along 
the two Riveras, or sea coasts to 
the east and west, particularly that 
in the latter direction. Among 
several places famous for their 
good oil, we may mention Diano, 
which produces oil inferior to none 
in any part of the world, and in 
considerable quantities. The olive 
crops are liable to be injured by 
extreme dryness of temperature, as 
well as by a small worm, which 
consumes the pulpy part of the 
fruit, rendering it thereby useless 
for the purposes of pressing. In 
general, however, the oil produced 
is sufficient not only for home con- 
sumption, but also to supply a large 
foreign demand. 

Very little corn is grown within 
the state of Genoa, there being but 
a small portion of the duchy suita- 
ble for its cultivation ; and in con- 
sequence the city is almost entirely 
supplied with grain from other 
countries, such as Piedmont, Lom- 



On the whole the natural pro- 
ducts of the duchy of Genoa are 
obtained only by the force of great 
labour on the part of the peasantry, 
whose condition, it must be con- 
ceded, is not one of much ease or 
comfort, though it cannot be denied 
that they submit to it with the 
greatest cheerfulness and good hu- 
mour. As to the inhabitants and 
trading community of Genoa, there 
is no nation under the sun more 
addicted to the love of gain than 
themselves ; it is inherent in all 
ranks, and manifests itself through 
all their dealings. Indeed here, as 
well as elsewhere, self-interest is 
the ruling passion of all classes, and 
intellectual attainments are but 
little attended to. These blemishes 
are ascribed to their neglect of 
travel, and their want of knowledge 
of the customs and institutions of 
other countries. The lower classes 
of Genoa are industrious, sober, 
and obliging, little addicted to dis- 
putes, and peaceable and orderly in 
their transactions. The men are 
well and comfortably clothed, and 
the women are clean and neat; 
they are fond of ornaments, and are 



hardy, Sardinia, and the shores of j remarkable for their large gold ear- 



the Black sea 

Fruits, of almost every kind, and 
vegetables thrive in the gardens, 
and are cultivated in immense 
quantities, both for the supply of 
the city, and to preserve for expor- 
tation. 

The chestnut grows most luxuri- 
antly along the banks of the Pol- 
cevera, and its fruit forms a prin- 
cipal winter support of the pea- 
santry 

Milk and butter of excellent 
quality are abundantly supplied 
from the country around Genoa, 
notwithstanding that the pasturage 
is so very scanty; but for the cheese, 
which is consumed by the inhabi- 
tants in large quantities, the city is 
indebted to the rich dairies of Par- 
ma, Sardinia, and Holland. 



rings and neck chains, which latter 
are often of considerable value, and 
to which is generally suspended an 
immense cross or medal, with some 
saint's head attached to it ; they 
wear their beautiful black hair 
plainly divided in front, with the 
back part braided and confined 
with a large gold pin, a similar one 
also fastens the mazero (a scarf of 
white muslin attached to the top 
of the head, and falling down on 
each side to the feet) ; this costume 
is the ne\er -failing dress of the 
middle classes of the inhabitants. 
The peasantry, on the contrary, are 
accustomed to wear their mazero 
made of printed cotton, and of the 
brightest and most gaudy colours, 
representing animals, birds, trees, 
and houses, and which is evidently 



478 



KORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 94. GENOA. UNIVERSITY. 



a relic of the Indian and Moorish 
customs. The younger women, 
also, usually ornament their hair 
with the flowers of the carnation 
and white jessamine, which give a 
gay and pleasing eflect. 

Genoa became celebrated in the 
wars of Napoleon from the occupa- 
tion of it by Massena with his 
forces, and the long blockade by 
the German army. In 1805 it was 
made part of the new kingdom of 
Italy, and continued so till the 
overthrow of the empire of Napo- 
leon in 1814; when Lord William 
Bentinck took possession of it at 
the head of a British force, and 
established a temporary govern- 
ment with a suitable constitution. 
The Genoese at one time enter- 
tained the expectation that their 
state would be again erected into 
an independent republic: but the 
sovereigns of Europe, whose minis- 
ters were assembled in congress at 
Vienna, judged it best for the com- 
mon interests of Italy and the con- 
solidation of the general peace, that 
Genoa and Venice should not be 
again exposed to the vicissitudes 
inseparable from the condition of 
small and comparatively powerless 
communities. They therefore de- 
cided that Genoa should form part 
of the dominions of the house of 
Savoy, and it was accordingly in- 
corporated in the kingdom of Sar- 
dinia. 

Arts and Literature.— Only a brief 
detail is needed of the present state 
of the arts and literature in Genoa; 
of the arts, indeed, not much can 
be said, or even perhaps expected, 
where society is so strictly commer- 
cial, and, it must be added, where 
so little encouragement is extended 
to their cultivation by the rich and 
wealthy portion of the community. 

The Academy of Painting was 
built in the year 1831, after the 
designs of the late Carlo Barabino, 
in the Piazza Carlo FeUce. The 
olasses are instructed gratuitously, 



and amoant to about one hundred 
and seventy pupils ; but although 
most zealously supported by the 
Marchese Marcello Z. Durazzo, and 
one or two other liberal patrons of 
the arts, the whole is in a low and 
languishing condition. 

With respect to the literature of 
Genoa more can certainly be said 
than of the fine arts ; and, although 
far from rivalling its ancient repu- 
tation, it must still be allowed to 
possess many names, of which it 
may be justly proud. 

The University, in the Strada 
Balbi, is a noble building, and was 
erected by Barthelemi Bianco ; it is 
commodious, and contains within 
its walls every necessary conveni- 
ence for the different branches of 
study. The courses begin the 18th 
of November, and terminate about 
the end of July. It is rich in a fine 
museum of natural history ; the 
birds and fishes of which are in 
good preservation. There is also 
a large collection of specimens of 
the different minerals. But its 
chief value is in its library, from 
the number of books, and the rare 
collection of its manuscripts in the 
Chinese and Arabic languages. The 
principal staircase in the entrance 
hall is generally pointed out as 
deserving attention, from the beau- 
tiful statues of the lions, by B. 
Bianco, which ornament the balus- 
trades. 

There are two other public li- 
braries equally valuable andcurious ; 
the one is in the Strada Nuova, be- 
longing to the society of the Urban 
missionaries, and is open to the 
public every day excepting Sundays 
and fete daj^s ; the other occupies 
a portion of the academy of paint- 
ing, in the Piazza Carlo Felice. 
This latter was a gift from the 
noble family of Berio. 

The principal streets in Genoa 
are the Strada Nuova, the Strada 
Nuovissima, and the Strada Balbi. 
The former was commenced about 



SAEDINIA. — ROUTE 94. GEXOA. GOLD AND SILVER ORNAMENTS. 479 



1552, after the destruction of a low 
and poor quarter, which stood on 
the site of the present Fontana 
Amorosa; this street is the most 
nohle in the city, and is formed 
exclusively of a double line of mag- 
nificent palaces, having seven on 
its south, and six on its north side ; 
these are generally the work of the 
architect Galeazzo Alessi. The 
Strada Nuovissima, which joins it 
on the west, is so named from its 
more recent construction, being 
built principally for shops, and the 
necessary accommodation of their 
owners On continuing in the same 
direction it enters the Piazza An- 
nunciata, which connects it with 
the Strada Balbi, and, although 
this street is generally inferior to 
the Strada Nuova, it contains the 
royal and several other splendid 
palaces. It afterwards passes through 
the Acqua Verda to the Porta 
Santo Thomaso, and forms the lead- 
ing thoroughfare of the city to the 
populous suburb of San Pierre 
d' Arena. 

The Harbour. — The harbour of 
Genoa is both large and commo- 
dious, comprising about four thou- 
sand nine hundred and twenty-seven 
yards in circumference, and averag- 
ing about fifteen yards in depth. 
The entrance is protected by two 
moles, each having a lanterina, or 
little lighthouse, erected on its point. 
The oldest of these defences was 
commenced by the architect Marino 
Bocanegra about the year 155.3. 
The foundation for the new mole 
was laid with much ceremony on 
the first of May, 1638, and at a 
later period it was extended to its 
present length of five hundred and 
sixty yards. The principal light- 
house is most splendidly placed 
upon an elevation of rock called the 
Capo di Euro, standing altogether 
at a height of one hundred and 
thirty-five yards, and from which 
reverberating lights are visible at a 
distance of thirtv miles. 



Trade and Commerce. — The com- 
merce of Genoa, although reported 
to have considerably declined in 
comparison with the returns of for- 
mer years, must ever retain, from 
the central position which it occu- 
pies in connexion with Italy, 
France, and Spain, the largest por- 
tion of the trade in the Mediterra- 
nean. Among the articles of which 
its principal exports consist are the 
different manufactures in silk, such 
as velvets, damasks, and ribbons; 
and although not more than six 
hundred hands are now employed 
in the place of ten thousand, which 
formerly could scarcely supply the 
demand, yet the reputation for the 
brilliancy of their colours, and the 
fineness and strength of their tex- 
ture, still remains unchanged. The 
inferior sorts of silk also, after 
being worked up into an article 
called filozele, for the making of 
handkerchiefs, caps, &c. &c., employ 
from two to three thousand persons . 

The looms, which are found m 
almost every cottage around the 
city, are moved by hand, and find 
occupation for near four thousand 
hands. The weavers, also, are nearly 
as numerous, and manufacture large 
quantities of coarse cloths, stuffs, 
and druggets. 

Goldatid Silver Ornaments — The 
artisans employed in the working 
of gold, and in the forming of those 
beautiful ornaments in silver filigree 
which the city of Genoa has carried 
to such a high degree of perfection, 
are said to amount to five hundred 
within the walls. The best assort- 
ment of silver filigree ornaments is 
in the magazine of JVIr Felix Per- 
netti, proprietor of the Hotel de 
la Croix de Malta. The shops are 
in various parts of Genoa. 

The coral trade also finds a live- 
lihood for at least four thousand 
persons, chiefly fishermen, who at 
certain seasons embark in their 
boats for the islands of Sardinia and 
Corsica, and even extend their voy- 



480 



NORTHERN ITALY. ROHTE 94. GENOA. DUOMO. 



ages to the coast of Africa ; at their 
return they dispose of their suc- 
cesses to the merchants of Genoa, 
where it again gives constant em- 
ployment to three or four hundred 
workmen in its manufacture. 

The Casino. — This very liberal 
and convenient estabhshment is 
formed by a general miion of the 
principal merchants, both natives 
and foreigners, who subscribe toge- 
ther not only for the purpose of 
enjoying the convenience of a library 
and reading room, but also as a 
means for extendmg their hospita- 
lity to the general inhabitants of 
the city during the winter and 
spring months, by giving to them a 
succession of elegant and liberal 
entertainments. Invitations are 
politely offered to such strangers as 
may be temporarily residing here. 

The Theatre of Carlo Felice.— This 
beautiful structure was erected by 
the Genoese architect Carlo Bara- 
Ijino, and is worthy of the city which 
it so highly ornaments. It was 
opened for the public in the year 
1827. Its exterior is of white stone, 
and surrounded on two sides by a 
handsome colonnade, while the fa- 
cade which fronts the principal 
square is nobly supported by a 
double row of eight pillars in mar- 
ble. The interior, about the size of 
Covent Garden, is elegantly and 
conveniently arranged, containing 
five tiers of boxes ornamented with 
blue festoons ; the establishment, 
liowever, is but indifferently sup- 
ported. Open at half-past seven ; 
commences at eight o'clock. 

The Theatre of St Augustin. — 
This building has undergone many 
changes, having been originally a 
convent and church dedicated to St 
Augustm, after which it became 
converted into a theatre for the 
performance of the opera ; but now, 
since the completion of the above 
splendid locale in the Piazza Carlo 
Felice, it has descended as a place 
for the performance of Itahftn 



comedies and farces, and horse- 
manship. 

The English Church.— The Eng- 
lish inhabitants of Genoa have estab- 
lished a very neat and commodious 
church, and are extremely fortunate 
in having obtained the advantages 
of a clergyman, the Rev. John Irvine, 
to reside permanently among them, 
and by whom the different offices of 
our church are regularly performed 
in the most unexceptionable man- 
ner. His income is obtained from 
subscriptions among his congrega- 
tion, and from the voluntary con- 
tributions of travellers passing 
through the city. Service every 
Smiday, at half-past eleven in the 
morning and three in the after- 
noon. 

The Dunmn, or Chwch of St Law - 
rence. — The interior is Teutonic, 
and composed of alternate blocks o£ 
black and white marble, but was 
not completed until more than a 
century afterwards. The cupola 
and the choir were finally arranged 
by the architects Galeazzo Alessi 
and Eocco Pennone, towards the 
close of the fourteenth century. 

Among the many curiosities con- 
tained m this church are the ashes 
of St John the Baptist, which are 
carefully preserved in two reliqua- 
ries, or urns, of silver gilt, the work- 
manship of tlie celebrated Contucci, 
in the year 1488. They are paraded 
through the streets of Genoa on 
Corpus Christi day with much 
pomp, and were originally brought 
from the city of Myrrha, a seapor| 
town in Lycia. 

The catino, or emerald vase, is 
also an object of great respect 
among the Genoese, who still believe 
it to be the same on which our 
Saviour celebrated the Sacrament 
of the Last Supper. It was capT 
tured from the Saracens by the 
brave Gugliehno Embriarco, at thq 
storming of Cesarea, in the year 
1101. 

The next great object of interest 



SARDINIA. — ROUTE 94. GENOA. PALACES. 



481 



to be viewed in this church is the 
celebrated disco or agate dish, bear- 
ing the representation of the head 
of St John, and which is reported 
to be the same on which Herodias 
received it It was presented to the 
cathedral hy Pope Innocent VIII. 

The paintings and marbles do not 
merit much remark, particularly 
when compared with those m seve- 
ral of the churches, which wiU. be 
hereafter described. 

The Church of St Cyr is one of 
the most ancient in the city ; its 
antiquity has been traced back to 
the year 250, when Solomon, the 
first bishop of Genoa, converted it 
into a cathedral. This distinction 
it continued to enjoy untd the year 
985, when this honour was trans- 
ferred to the church of St Lawrence. 
In 994 this church was given to the 
Benedictine monks, and passing 
afterwards into the possession of 
the order of Tlieatms, it was en- 
larged and finished in its present 
state. The facade of this beautiful 
church, erected in 1820, after the 
designs of Carlo Barabmo, of white 
marble, is not in good keeping with 
the richness and splendour of its 
interior. The principal objects which 
arrest the attention on entering 
this gorgeous pile are the brilliancy 
in the colourmg of the frescoes on 
the cupola and roof, the works of 
Jean Carloni, and the marble co- 
lunnis in one entire piece, which 
support the roof of the building ; 
they are the largest and most beau- 
tiftd in Genoa. The pictures that 
deserve attention in this church are 
the ' Assumption,' by Sarzana, in a 
chapel to the left, and that of the 
* Adoration of the Shepherds,' by 
Pomerancio, under the loft of the 
organ. 

The Church of the Annunciation 
win be, when finished, no doubt the 
most magnificent temple m Genoa. 
It was originally built in the year 
1228 by the Monaci Umiliati, and 
was dedicated to St Martha, but 



afterwards came into the possession 
of the order of the Conventurati 
about 1509, who enlarged and com- 
pleted it as it remains at present. 
It finally descended into the hands 
of the Muiori Osservanti, wlio were 
the first to dedicate it to the An- 
nunciation. This noble church owes 
much of its former splendour to 
the princely hberality of the Lo- 
melhni family, who contributed at 
various times most largely to its 
support and decoration. It is iit 
the present moment not less in- 
debted to a subscription of the in- 
habitants as well as to the late 
Marchese Terra, who left by his 
will a large sum of money for the 
re]3aration of the frescoes, and the 
regUding of the interior. A facade 
m white marble, supx^orted by a 
row of beautiful columns, after the 
designs of Carlo Barabino, is now 
in progress of erection, and, when 
I completed, will be worthy of the 
! magnificent church it adorns. In 
I the interior the frescoes are worth}^ 
I of attention ; those round the cupola 
} were painted by Andrea Ansaidi, 
and the others upon the choir by 
Juho Benzo. The remainder, on 
the roof of the building, are prin- 
I cipally the works of the brothers 
Carloni. 

Tlie Palaces. — As far as extent of 
buildmg, large entrance gates, an 
immense number of windows, and 
generally grand staircases, consti- 
tute palaces, then, indeed, it is true 
that Genoa may j ustly be styled a 
city of palaces ; but, alas ! with few 
exceptions, like the magnificent 
buildings m Venice, they are fast 
falling into uses for which their 
noble owners never contem]3lated, 
or falling rapidly into decay ; it is 
therefore only necessary to select 
those which by general consent are 
considered the most valuable. The 
first is that of the 

Marchese Serra, in the Strada 
Nuova, which was built, like most 
of the other palaces in this street, 



482 



NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 94. GENOA. PALACES. 



about the year 1552, by the cele- 
brated architect Galeazzo Alessi. 
The size and distribution of the 
principal apartments are excellent, 
and many are beautifully orna- 
mented in fresco, by the brothers 
Semini, particularly the ceiling in 
the first antechamber, representing 
the funereal games instituted by 
JEneas m honour of Anchises. The 
dinmg room was the work of the 
famous Genoese architect Taglia- 
fichi, and is greatly admired for its 
simplicity and good taste. But the 
greatest object of attention in this 
palace is the grand salon, the 
splendour of which surpasses almost 
all that can be imagmed, giving rise 
to the appellation bestowed upon it 
by a traveller, of the " Palace of the 
Sun." 

The decorations, exclusive of the 
pictures and the porcelains, are said 
to have cost alone forty thousand 
pounds sterling. Each side of the 
room is supported by columns of 
marble gilt, and between each are 
placed mirrors reaching from the 
frieze to the flooring. A fireplace 
occupies each end, with mantel- 
pieces of great beauty, having upon 
them the most superb vases of Sevres 
china, frosted in with powdered 
lapis lazuli, which produces a sin- 
gular and rich efiect. The archi- 
traves and panels are also most 
curiously carved and gilt. The fur- 
niture is equally splendid, and in 
perfect harmony with the room, 
rendering it without exception the 
most magnificent salon in Italy. 

The Palazzo Doria Tursi is the 
property of the government, and at 
present occupied by the Society of 
Jesuits as a college. It is generally 
much admired for the architectural 
beauty of its fa9ade, and forms one 
of the most conspicuous features in 
the Strada Nuova. It was buUt by 
a Lombard architect of the name of 
Eocco Lugaro. Its frescoes are the 
works of Paganelli, and a Genoese 
artist named IVIichael Canzio. 



The Palazzo Bosso belongs to the 
Marchese Antonio Brignole Sale, at 
present Sardinian ambassador at 
the court of France. The frescoes, 
which ornament the different apart- 
ments are the productions of Georgio 
di Ferrari, and are considered ex- 
cellent specimens of his style. On 
the staircase are several busts of 
Eoman emperors. The pictures 
which enriched this palace have 
been removed to Paris, but many 
are still here. A franc to the at- 
tendant for a party is quite sufficient ; 
the same rule applies to all the 
palaces. 

The Palazzo Durazzo, in the Strada 
Balbi, belonging to the Marchese 
Filippo J. Durazzo, was built by 
BarthelemiBianco,but the staircases, 
for which this residence is so much 
admired, were executed by the 
famous Genoese architect Andreo 
TagUafichi, and are generally al- 
lowed to be superior to every other 
in Genoa. 

The Palace of the Marchese Balbi 
Piovera. — The entrance haU is finely 
painted by Valeric Castelh, and re- 
presents the Triumph of Time. The 
side waUs also have two good pic- 
tures — the one representing 'Joseph 
in Prison,' by Bernardo Strozzi, and 
the other an ' Equestrian Portrait,' 
by Vandyke. There are some fine 
paintings among this collection. 

The Palace Marchese Marcello 

Luigi Durazzo The collection of 

pictures it contains, although small 
in number, is deserving of attention. 

The Royal Palace, in the Strada 
Balbi, is a very noble buUding, and 
was formerly the property of the 
Durazzo family. It was purchased 
by his present majesty, who occu- 
pies it during his annual visit to 
Genoa. The accommodation is ex- 
tensive, but the rooms are smaU and 
badly arranged, and, excepting per- 
haps the library, the theatre, and 
the principal reception room, there 
are none deserving attention. The 
pictures are indifferent, the most 



SARDINIA.— ROUTE 94. GENOA. PALACES. 



483 



valuable having been removed to 
the king's palace at Turin. The 
building itself was erected after the 
plans of two famous architects, 
P. Francois Cantone and Jean Andre 
Falcone ; while the staircases and 
terraces, which have been so greatly 
admired, were the works of the 
Chevalier Charles Fontana. 

The Palazzo Doria was built by 
the celebrated Andrea Doria, in the 
sixteenth century, after the designs 
of Montorsoli, but remained un- 
finished ; the principal floor, with 
the terraces, are aU that are deserv- 
ing of mention. Its principal at- 
tractions are the frescoes surround- 
ing the great hall and galleries, from 
being the productions of the distin- 
guished Pierin del Vaga, pupil of 
Raffaelle, and partly contributor to 
the paintings in the Vatican at 
Rome. They represent ' Jupiter 
defeating the Giants,' the ' Triumph 
of Scipio,' &c. &c. In the centre of 
the beautiful garden is constructed 
a large basin, and fountain repre- 
senting a statue of Neptune and his 
Sea Horses, by Signor P. Carlone ; 
and towards the bottom, facing 
the sea, is a handsome marble ter- 
race, commanding the entire view of 
the harbour. 

On a hill, also, arising immediately 
opposite the palace, is placed a 
colossal statue of Jupiter, erected by 
the prince as a tribute to the fidelity 
of a dog, presented to him by the 
Emperor Charles V. 

The Palazzo Durazzo, situated 
near the great lighthouse, on the 
route to San Pierre d' Arena, is alone 
meriting attention from the splen- 
did beauty of its situation, and the 
curiosity of its hanging gardens. 
It was the residence for many years 
of the late Lord Berwick, while 
ambassador at the court of Turin, 
and also of Queen Caroline, consort 
of George IV. 

The Ducal Palace. — This immense 
pile of building was anciently erected 
for the residence of the doges of 



Genoa, but has latterly been appro- 
priated to the uses of the governor 
of the city, and the different offices 
of the government. We learn from 
ancient authority, that the corpora- 
tion, about the year 1291, bought 
from AnceUino Doria, for the sum of 
two thousand livres, the entire of 
the houses standing between the 
church of St Matthew and St 
Lawrence, and afterwards con- 
structed upon the site the first 
public palace. That building, after 
many accidents and conflagrations, 
and more particularly the great 
fire on the 3rd of November, 1777, 
became finally completed as it now 
remains, by the famous Genoese 
architect Simon Cantoni. 

The fa9ade of the palace is of 
white marble, richly ornamented 
with balustrades and niches of much 
taste and beauty. The object, how- 
ever, of the greatest attraction is 
the magnificent salon, which for size 
and elegance of proportion is inferior 
only to the celebrated apartment in 
Amsterdam. The paintings on the 
centre of the ceiling, representing an 
allegory of the island of Scio, at 
that time in the possession of the 
family of the Justiniani, are the 
works of S. Tiepoli, a Venetian 
artist of great merit. Two other 
objects of great curiosity are also to 
be seen here — namely, a tablet in 
bronze, found about the year 1506 
in the forest of the Polcevera ; it 
bears the date of 633 after the 
foundation of Rome ; and some au- 
thentic letters, with other written 
documents, of the celebrated Andrea 
Doria ; these latter are preserved 
with much care. 

During the winter and spring 
months, the principal apartments 
of the ducal palace are thrown 
open twice a week, when the inha- 
bitants and strangers are received 
with the greatest courtesy and at- 
tention by the present excellent 
governor and his lady. 

In describing the palaces situated 



484 



NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 94. GENOA. CUSTOM HOUSE. 



outside the walls of Genoa, the first 
to be noticed is the Palace of the 
Marchese Pallavicini, called the 
Peschiere, from the number of the 
fountains which ornamented its 
terraces and gardens. This palace 
was built by the celebrated architect 
Galeazzo Alessi, about the year 
1560, and has ever been admired 
for the beauty and grandeur of its 
architecture. It is built upon the 
hill of St Barthelemi, and commands 
the most noble and extensive views 
over the sea and surrounding 
moimtains. The apartments are 
lofty and richly painted in fresco by 
the brothers Semini, and, though 
executed nearly three hmidred years 
ago, they still retain their pristine 
beauty. The garden is extensive, 
and laid out in terraces, with much 
good taste, and abounds in flowering 
and other plants, particularly the 
different varieties of the cammelia 
japonica, and some splendid speci- 
mens of the orange and lemon 
tribes ; yet it is impossible not to 
regret the general want of care that 
is to be observed, not only in this 
garden but in almost every other 
that belongs to the Genoese nobles. 
It is unpardonable ; for, with such 
conveniences, and with a climate 
that would bring to perfection the 
culture of almost every foreign 
plant, they neglect these inestimable 
advantages, and prefer a pecuniary 
return to the more tasteful enjoy- 
ments of a cultivated parterre. 

The Palazzo Durazzo, belonging 
to the Marchese Luigi Durazzo, is 
also a fine piece of architecture, 
and known generally as the Zerbino, 
after the picturesque and fine posi- 
tion on which it is built. The gar- 
dens are extensive and weU disposed, 
but as usual in a neglected state. 
They are, however, much frequented 
by the inhabitants of the town 
during the beautiful evenings of 
the summer months. 

It must not, however, be ima- 
gined that because the above two 



or three palaces only are here 
noticed, the ancient noble inhabi- 
tants of this magnificent city had 
not their country palaces to retire to 
during the sultry seasons of the 
year ; for the splendid mansions 
which abound in the beautiful vil- 
lages of Albaro and San Pierre 
d' Arena will amply testify to the 
contrary. 

The Custom hovse is estabhshed 
in the ancient Bank of St George. 
The most interesting object is the 
immense chain, a portion of which 
is suspended over the principal 
gate, and may be seen also attached 
to many of the other pubHc build- 
ings and palaces in Genoa. The 
chronicle is curious and illustrative 
of the manners of ancient times : 
— After the dreadful defeat by the 
Genoese, which gave a fatal blow 
to the power of Pisa, the people of 
that city refusing to pay their tri- 
bute, and fulfil the conditions im- 
posed upon them by their victors, 
caused a chain to be drawn across 
the mouth of their harbour, with 
the hope of preventing an entrance ; 
but Conrad Doria, in the year 1290, 
broke through the obstruction with 
a few ships, and having burned 
and otherwise destroyed the remain- 
ing portion of their navy, returned 
in triumph to his native city, bring- 
ing with him this huge chain as a 
testimony of the victory he had 
achieved. It was afterwards divided 
among the most illustrious of his 
companions in arms, who hmig it 
from their palaces, as a memento W 
future ages of their shares in this 
memorable fight. A marble slab, 
with an inscription, is still to be 
seen on the front of a house in the 
Piazza Ponticello. 

The new terrace is among the 
most splendid of the public works 
with which the Genoese are at pre- 
sent ornamenting their magnificent 
city. It forms the base of their 
inner harbour. The esplanade is 
flat, and about five-aud-thirty feet 



SATIDIXIA. — ROUTE 94. GKNOA. CLIMATP:. 



48;> 



in width, constructed entirely of 
the finest white Carrara marble. 
The staircases which communicate 
with the square below are of the 
same material, and most deservedly 
admired. The front towards the 
city is composed of a succession of 
arches, built in white stone, exca- 
vated from the neighbourhood of 
Villa Franca, and forms a most 
agreeable and convenient arcade 
for tne people. Between each of 
these arches is a small shop with a 
sleeping room above, constructed 
for the accommodation of the diffe • 
rent tradespeople connected with 
the shipping. On the opposite side, 
and fronting the harbour, the wall 
is built with a dark green stone 
brought from the quarries of Va- 
rena, near Pegh, and is perfectly 
plain with the exception of the line 
of loopholes formed for affording 
light to the before-mentioned shops 
and houses. The length of this 
terrace, when thrown open as a 
promenade for the inhabitants, will 
be above four hundred yards, and 
it is conjectured that the cost will 
exceed two minions of francs. 

The noble viaduct situated in 
the immediate neighbourhood of 
the church of the Assumption, was 
built, equally with the church, at 
the expense of the Sauli family. 
It is composed of seven arches, the 
centre one of which, resting in the 
■street below, measures a height of 
-nearly 250 feet. It is of the greatest 
utility and convenience to that po- 
pulous neighbourhood, from the 
agreeable communication it affords 
to the inhabitants of the hills of 
Sarzano and Carignano. 

The Tower of the Enihriarci is de- 
serving the attention of the cmious, 
as being, undoubtedly, the most 
ancient monument in Genoa ; it 
will be found at the extremity of 
the Strada Giustiani, leading from 
the place of the cathedral. It is 
said to have been constructed by 
Guglielmo Embriarco, the inventor 



of the famous movable wooden 
towers, made use of by Godfrey de 
Bouillon in his attacks upon the 
city of Jerusalem. 

Genoa is abundantly supplied 
with pure and delicious water ; it 
is even forced upwards into the 
very highest parts of the city. 
The different sources from whence 
this immense supply is obtained 
are to be foimd among the neigh- 
bouring mountains, at a distance of 
between twelve and fifteen miles. 

The promenade along the course 
of this aqueduct may be considered 
as one of the most beautiful and 
interesting of the walks in the 
neighbom'hood of Genoa. 

Climate. — The city of Genoa with 
its immediate neigbourhood, like 
many other places sought after by 
the invalid, derives its advantages 
more from its topographical position 
than from general causes. This is 
plainly evident when we look at 
the beautiful and splendid site 
which was chosen for its erection ; 
where protected upon its three 
sides from the injurious effects of 
the north and north-east winds by 
a chain of the lofty Appennines, 
and exposed only to the genial 
breezes from the south, it presents 
altogether a residence as favourable 
to general health, as it does to the 
suffering invahd under certain ma- 
ladies* 

Genoa is very salubrious, and is 
but rarely visited with burning 
summers or rigorous winters. The 
thermometer rarely rises above 24° 
Keaumur. This coolness of the at- 
mosphere is owing to the southerly 
and easterly winds that particularly 
reign during the months of July 
and August along the coast of 
Liguria. The water is excellent, 
the provisions wholesome, and the 
sobriety of the inhabitants contri- 
butes to their general good health. 
Pulmonary complaints are the most 
frequently met with on accoimt of the 
rapid variations of the atmosphere. 
d2 



486 



NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 94. GENOA. WINES. 



Provisions and Delicacies. — The 
paste of Genoa are the best of Italy 
and are sent to all parts of Europe. 

The mushrooms that grow on the 
declivities of the Appennines are 
excellent and very plentiful. They 
are so abundant that there is a 
market appropriated for them, and 
the amateur should not faU visiting 
the Piazza de' Fungi, situated near 
the archbishop's palace. The red 
mushroom (boleti) and the black 
(neri), when dried and preserved, are 
sent as far as America to the value 
of about a million of francs yearly. 

Good preserves : pears, lemons, 
and small green oranges, called 
small Chinese (piccoli Chinesi), 
are the most noted. Excellent figs 
and fruit. 

The veal is of the best quality, 
particularly that of the valley of 
Bisagno (vitella de paiscion). As 
oxen are not employed in the neigh- 
bourhood of Genoa, those killed for 
the market generally come from 
Piedmont, and the fatigues of the 
journey render them very tender. 
I cannot here pass over the answer 
given by an Enghshman to the 
witty and learned maritime writer, 
M. Jal, who has so well described 
the galleys of the ancient repubhc. 
M. Jal having asked his neighbour 
at the table d'hote, how he liked 
the city ? the tourist replied, appa- 
rently enchanted, " Ah ! monsieur, 
le boeuf est excellent, les femmes 
jolies, Genes est une ville char- 
mante ! " 

That insolent Italian proverb on 
Genoa, " Uomini senza fede, donne 
senza vergogna, mare senza pesce, 
bosco senza legna" (men without 
faith, women without modesty, sea 
without fish, forests without wood),* 
is true neither with regard to the 
men, nor particularly to the women, 
who have always been a little collet 

*■ Murray, with that bad taste and iJUbe- 
rality which pervade all his Hand-Books, 
has inserted this ill-natured and unjust 
quotation. 



monte, neither of the sea, nor of the 
forests ; for many of the immense 
plantations of the vicinity have the 
appearance of real forests of lemon 
and olive trees ; and with regard to, 
fish, the principal cities of Lom- 
hardy and Piedmont are furnished 
from this city. As the police re- 
quire here, as well as at Venice, 
that what is not sold during the 
day should be thrown away, the 
common people buy some excellent 
fish at a low price and get it fried 
at the public frying pans. The 
louasso, very savoury ; the roach 
(triglia) ; the anchovy ; the whit- 
ing (nasello) ; the fresh tunny ; and 
a small white fish (bianchetti), the 
more delicate of which have a rosy 
tint and are then called rosetti, are 
aU much esteemed. 

Wines. — Persons in easy circum- 
stances make use of French and 
Montferat wines. The white wine 
of the country in more common use 
is sharp and weak, with but little 
alcohol. However, the wine of Pol- 
cevera, a vaUey in the neighbour- 
hood of Genoa, when made in a 
particular manner, somewhat recals 
the Ehenish wines ; its acid taste 
is rather agreeable, and is highly 
esteemed by the Genoese. 

One should call for that excellent 
acqua d'amarina, as at Milan, 

The zucchero rosato is a kind of 
marmalade of roses, and is an agree- 
able, refreshing, and economical be- 
verage, and, as I have myself expe- 
rienced, highly salutary for travel- 
lers. The zucchero rosato is sold 
in small boxes, for about 20 to 30 
sous a pound; ateaspoonful is suffi- 
cient to mix with a large glass of 
water. That wMch is prepared and 
sold at the convent of Sant' Anna 
is the most esteemed. 

Bookseller. — M. A. Beuf, who has 
also reading rooms. 

Artificial Flowers. — The conser- 
vatory of the Fieschines, a convent 
founded in 1760 by a Domenico 
Fieschi, is celebrated for its artifi- 



SARDIKIA.— 'ROtitfi 94. GENOA, STEAM PACKETS, 



48: 



cial flowers, sent to all parts of 
Europe and even to America. The 
poor and pious virgins, thus adorn- 
ing with their elegant nosegays the 
world they have abandoned, pre- 
sent a striking contrast particu- 
larly felt when these beautiful but 
high-priced flowers are offered you 
through the double grating of the 
parlour by a Elora en guimpe et 
beguin. The manufacture of made 
flowers appears, however, to be 
rather stationary at Genoa, as two 
French fleuristes, established in this 
city, supply its most fashionable 
ladies, and even Turin draws nearly 
all its made flowers from Paris. 

The manufactures called deUa 
Maddalena, the most noted of which 
is the Sole, prepare vases, cups, 
saucers, snuff'-boxes, and other ob- 
jects from the wood of the fig tree, 
that are very pretty, light, and ex- 
cellently varnished. This wood, 
so fragile in appearance, stands 
well against boihng water, and has, 
besides, the merit of keeping snuff 
quite moist and fresh even in sum- 
mer. 

Care should be taken in making 
purchases to ascertain if the price 
is given in lire of Genoa or of Pied- 
mont. The first is worth 80 cen- 
times, the last is a franc. 

The velvets of Genoa still retain 
their ancient superiority, so loudly 
declared by Tasso, when he insisted 
that his cap should be of the best 
quality. 

Tohaccoes. — The government 
cigars, although not of bad tobacco, 
are very badly manufactured. Eeal 
Havannah cigars may be had at the 
custom house for about 5 to 7 frs. 
the quarter of a hundred, and tra- 
vellers would do weU. to take a suffi- 
ciency here, as there is no other 
depot in Piedmont ; the receipt 
should be kept to avoid all im- 
portunity at the various custom 
liouses on the road. 

Baths. — Genoa could do well 
without any public baths, as every 



house is supplied with water to tlie 
highest story, and every hotel keeps 
chamber baths that are got ready 
in a few minutes. There is a very 
excellent public establishment near 
the Ponti di Legno, opposite the 
Hotel de Londres, besides several 
clean, serviceable, floating sea baths. 

Steam-boats. — Steam-boats go 
from Marseilles to Naples in four 
days, touching regularly at Genoa, 
Leghorn, and Cevita Vecchia. 

There are now four distinct steam 
companies navigating the Mediter- 
ranean between Marseilles and 
Naples and Malta; they are the 
Sardinian, Tuscan, Neapolitan, and 
French, each company having se- 
veral boats. A departure for Leg- 
horn and Naples takes place five 
and six times a week, and to Nice 
four times a week. I have great 
pleasure in recommending to tra- 
vellers the ' Castor,' belonging to 
the Sardinian company; she is a 
very fast, easy boat, with an excel- 
lent table, and very civil steward. 
The ' Mongabello,' belonging to the 
Neapolitan company, is also an exr- 
cellent boat, fitted up in the most 
splendid style, with every accom- 
modation. I voyaged in both the 
above boats, and can with confi- 
dence speak of their capabilities. 
For fares, &c., see advertisements. 

Passports. — Travellers who may 
have come by land to Geneva, and 
intend to leave by sea, should be 
very particular as to their pass- 
ports. At the gate it is taken 
away, and a printed paper given to 
enable you to claim it at the police 
ofl&ce. Having decided upon your 
route, on receiving it go to the 
British consul ; from there to the 
consul of the kingdom you next 
wish to enter; then to the gover- 
nor's office, and lastly to the police 
office, where it is finally signed for 
your destination. 

These offices, however, can be 
performed by commissioners, for 
which they will expect 2 or 3 frs. 



488 



NORTHERN IT.U:.T. — ROUTE 95 



At each place a fee 


is 


demanded as 


10110 ws . 






fr. c. 


The Government 




- 


4 


English Consul 


- 


- 


2 80 


French - 


- 


- 


3 


Tuscan - 


- 


- 


2 


Swiss 


- 


- 


2 


Two Sicilies - 


. 


- 


6 


Lucca 


- 


J : 


1 28 


Roman 


- 


- 


3 20 


American 


• 


- 


10 54 



N.B. Travellers wishing to pro- 
ceed from Genoa to Milan, cannot 
do so unless they have obtained the 
Austrian vise previously, as the 
consul here has not the power to 
vise a foreigner's passport; this is 
highly important to persons from 
France intending to return through 
Milan. 

Malle-poste to Milan, from ad- 
joining the post office, every after- 
noon at half-past two, in eighteen 
hours ; fare, 36 frs. 

Turin every day; fare, 27 frs. 

Lucca every da,y ; 40 frs. 

Pisa every day; 45 frs. 50 c. 

Leghorn every day ; 5 1 frs. 

Florence every day ; 62 frs. 50 c. 

Nice every day at four o'clock. 

Post office. — Letters for England 
are sent oflP every day at half-past 
two o'clock; they must be posted 
before two, and the postage to 
Geneva, 1 4 sous, paid. Letters ar- 
rive in seven days from England, 
every morning at eight o'clock: 
the office is open from eight till six 
every day. except Sunday. 

Porters and boatmen charge, from 
the steamer to the pier, 1 fr. each 
person ; from the pier to hotel, 1 fr, ; 
from coach office to hotel, 1 fr. ; for 
landing a carriage, 5 frs. 

Vetturini to Florence in four 
days ; to Milan, two days ; Turin, 
two days. 

EOUTE 95. 

GENOA TO NICE BY THE COAST. 

Postes. 
From Genoa to Arenzano - 3 

— Savona - - 3 A 



95. GENOA TO 


NICE. 


Postes 


From Savona to Finale 


3 


— Albenga 


- 


3 


— Alassio 


- 


- 14 


— Oneille 


. 


3| 


— St Stephano 


- 


2| 


— St Remo _ 


- 


2 


— Ventimiglia 


- 


- 21- 


— Mentone 


- 


- H 


— Nice 


- 


5 



31 

The new road, accomplished 
about ten years ago, runs through 
the imposing faubourgs of St Pietro 
d' Arena, Cornegtiano, and Pegli, 
whicli form, so to speak, one line of 
street, flanked with magnificent 
palaces. 

Sf.stri di Ponente, an opulent town 
of 6,000 souls, with a multiplicity of 
splendid country houses; the same 
may be said for 

Prato, though the population is 
but 4,000. 

Volfri, divided into two towns, is 
not inferior in its public or private 
edifices or rich country houses; it 
moreover contains paper mills and 
wooUen manufactories of high re- 
pute. Population, 8,000. 

Let us do reverence in passing to 
Cogokto, the birthplace of Christo- 
pher Columbus, whose house is still 
shown with all that just pride towns- 
men may feel in the possession. 

After Arrizzaro, Varragio, a place 
exclusively occupied with ship- 
building, and Albizzola, famous for 
its porcelain, are left behind, a 
promontory is then attained, beyond 
which is discerned 

Savona, a city of 16,000 inha- 
bitants, and a proportionate number 
of good buildings. Its foundation 
is of no small antiquitj'', and its 
port was formerly a place of con- 
siderable traffic; even in our days 
it might without any very great 
difficulty be rendered capable of 
admitting vessels of a large burthen; 
The cathedral, or dome, manifests 
great architectural beauty, and pos- 
sesses some of the labours. of Alle- 
grini, CasteUi, Cambiaso, EobertoUi, 



SARDINIA. — ROUTE 95. GEKOA TO NICE. 



489 



and Albano. The church of St 
James is in enjoyment of a valua- 
ble picture, the ' Adoration of the 
Magi,' by Albert Durer, and another 
even more valuable by Antonio 
Semini, the painter of the 'Nati- 
vity,' in the church of St Dominick. 
Savona has given birth to the Em- 
peror Pertinax ; the Popes, Gregory 
VII, Sixtus IV, and Julius II; and to 
the celebrated lyric, Chiabrera. It 
should not be forgotten that Pius 
VII sojourned here several months. 

An easy excursion of a league 
from this city conducts the traveller 
to the church of La Madonna della 
Misericordia, which, in addition 
to beautiful paintings and marble 
sculptures, so frequent in Italy, 
boasts the possession of a statue of 
the Virgin, perfectly dazzling with 
the precious stones bedecking her. 

The course of the river is still 
pursued to 

Vado, a small town of 2,000 inha- 
bitants and of very ancient origin ; 
some fortifications defend the road- 
stead, which can afford shelter to 
ships of considerable tonnage. In 
the neighbourhood exists a grotto 
filled with the most glittering sta- 
lactites. 

Spotorno, the original seat of the 
family of the modern historian of 
Genoese literature. To Spotorno, 
which presents nothing remarkable, 
succeeds 

Noli, the old miniature republic of 
the fishermen, who were exceed- 
ingly jealous of any infringement 
of their privileges; it was under the 
protection of the potent republic of 
Genoa, to which it ultimately sub- 
mitted Tliis neat little place is 
protected by a castle ; the harbour 
is very small, but safe and commo- 
dious ; the population (about 2,000) 
having no lands to cultivate, sub- 
sist almost entirely by fishing. 

A short distance from Noli the 
way lies through a gallery cut in 
the solid marble, 147 yards in 
length ; it is called the Grotto. 



VarigotP is the first village en- 
countered after leaving the gallery. 
A few more revolutions of the 
wheels bring the traveller's vehicle to 

Finale, formerly the capital of a 
marquisate appertaining to Genoa; 
it is divided into three parts : Einale 
Borgo, Finale Marino, and Finale 
Sia. The city, properly so called, is 
comprised in the two first, the third 
is a faubourg. The collegiate church 
of St John the Baptist is a mag- 
nificent temple, after the design 
of Bernini. The pavement, the 
grandly proportioned staircase, and 
the sixteen piUars which divide 
the church into three naves, are 
of marble. St John the Baptist is 
at Finale Marino. Finale Borgo also 
commands a collegiate church, dedi- 
cated to St Blaise, in which the 
visitor should not fail to examine 
— 1. The marble supports of the 
pulpit, wrought into a representa- 
tion of the vision of Ezekiel ; 2. 
The mausoleum of the Marquis del 
Carretto, Avho sold this fief to the 
king of Spain; 3. A beautiful 
painting in imitation of tlie maimer 
of Luc of Holland. The ruins 
of the chateau of Gavon, and the 
picture gallery of the mansion of 
Raimondi, also demand a stranger's 
inspection. Oil, fruits, and a species 
of apple of exquisite flavour, called 
pornicarli are the chief commodi- 
ties of the traffic of Finale. 

Pietra is the next town ; its 
small port is well adapted for the 
coast trade; here, in 1796, Marshal 
Massena acquired high martial re- 
nown. 

Loano offers nothing to the curi- 
osity of the passenger beyond the 
small church of Mont Charecela. 
Population, .3,500. 

The vicinage of Borghetto di St 
Spirito is rendered attractive by 
the grotto of St Lucia, famous for 
its magnificent spars. 

Cereale, although an insignificant 
place, is notorious on account of 
the descent of the Turks upon it 



490 



NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 95. NICE. HOTELS. 



about two centuries ago ; a moiety 
of its inhabitants were seized and 
carried into slavery. 

Albenga, an episcopal city, built 
at the extremity of a small gulf, 
possesses a convenient harbour. 
A few monuments still remain to 
testify its ancient origin. As the 
district is rich in hemp and olives, 
the citizens (4,800 souls) carry on 
a sufficiently busy trade. Besides 
the sea which washes one side, and 
the river Centa which flows along 
the other, there is a neighbouring 
lake well stocked with fish. 

Near the coast of Albenga the 
isle of 

Gallinara rises from the waves ; 
its name was bestowed by the 
Komans, from the immense flocks 
of wild hens (gallina) found there, 
Alassio has a good port and a 
dockyard, while a tolerably pro- 
ductive traffic benefits its 5,700 in- 
habitants. 

Linqueglie, JRoIo, Cervo, and Diano 
Marino are insigTiificant villages, 
unless a fine castle excepts the last 
mentioned from that designation. 

Oneille, already described, see 
Table of Contents. 

At a short distance is 

Porto Maurizio, which is daily 
increasing in importance. Its ex- 
ports are pastes, olive oil, and stones 
proper for lithography, recently 
discovered in its environs. 

The villages of St Laurenzio, 
St Stephano, and Riva ofier nothing 
noticeable, except some old towers 
raised to defend the shore. 

St Remo, a city of 9,800 souls, 
occupies the declivity of a hill; its 
harbour admits coasting vessels. 
The St Eemo sailors are accounted 
the best and boldest along this line 
of coast. Oil and fruits form about 
the cnly branch of trade. 

Bordightra is a fortified village. 

Ventimiglia, a small episcopal city, 
in a delicious situation ; its popu- 
lation approaches 6,000. 

Mentone, equally recommended 



by its site. The women here are 
remarkable for the freshness of 
their complexions. The population 
is 4,000. There is no scanty trade 
in oranges, limes, and oils, which 
the neighbourhood produces in 
profusion. 

At a slight distance is the bridge 
of St Louis, vvhere the Sardinian 
states are quitted for the princi- 
pality of 

Monaco. — The capital of this 
principality is to the left, a 
wretched little city, barely num- 
bering 1,000 souls. Its situation, 
on a rock jutting into the sea, is 
very picturesque. 

The monuments in the town of 
Turbia and the village of Esa are 
highly esteemed by antiquaries. 

Villa Frayica possesses a very ex- 
cellent roadstead; its harbour, dug 
by the Genoese at the instigation of 
Barbarossa, is separated from that 
of Nice by a mountain, on the 
summit of which is the fortress of 
Montalban. 

Half a league further, through 
the most fertile plains, we arrive at 

NICE. 

Inns : Hotel de I'Europe, Hotel 
des Etrangers, Hotel de France, 
Hotel de Londres ; there are also 
several boarding houses, and abun- 
dance of lodgings, but it is the 
custom to let by the season, and 
not as elsewhere by the week or 
month. 

Nice is situated on a small plain, 
bounded on the west by the rive» 
Var, which divides it from Pro- 
vence, on the south by the Medi- 
terranean sea, which washes its 
walls, and on the north by the 
maritime Alps, rising into lofty 
mountains, forming an amphithea- 
tre, ending at Montalbano, which 
projects into the sea and overhangs 
the town to the last. The Paghon, a 
stream supplied by the rains or melt- 
ing of the snow from the neighbour- 
ing mountains, separates it from the 



SARDINIA^ — ROUTE 95. NICE. PROVISIONS. 



491 



English quarter and falls into the 
sea on the west. Nice is about 
one mile and a half in length, and 
a mile in breadth, and contains 
about 26,000 inhabitants. It has 
two squares, an university, hospi- 
tal, botanic garden, theatre, and 
public library. House rent is dear 
at Nice, particularly in the English 
quarter, but . wines, provisions, 
fruits, &c., are excellent and plenti- 
ful. The people are gay, humane, 
and peaceable, and the walks and 
rides are delightful. However 
agreeable Nice may be for a person 
in health, it is not the place for 
one threatened with pulmonary 
complaints. In winter and spring 
the air is cold, sometimes frosty. 
In summer the heat is very great, 
but the worst evil is the searching 
and disagreeable wind called Vent 
de Bise. 

Steamers leave Nice twice a 
week for Genoa, Leghorn and 
Naples, and Marseilles. 

There is an English church ser- 
vice twice every Sunday. 

Vetturini are plentiful here, in 
consequence of many of this useful 
class taking up their private 
quarters at Nice ; they require 
about four days to reach Genoa, 
and eight or ten days between 
Nice and Geneva, at the rate of 
20 frs. a day. 

Climate. — Nice has been frequented 
by the nobles of ancient Eome, as 
it is at the present time by many 
illustrious foreigners. Long eulo- 
gized for its climate, it has obtained 
the singular honour, perhaps unique 
amongst Christian cities, of having 
its praises sung by a Turkish poet, 
by the unfortunate Djem(orZizime, 
according to Vertot and other his- 
torians), the brother of Bajazet H ; 
it inspired him with a very pretty 
couplet, thus translated by the 
Journal Asiatique: — 

" Ah! quelle ville admirable que Nice! 
On y demeure en depit du caprice." 



Nice and Pisa are the chosen 
towns in IMy of invalids during 
winter. The climate appears mild 
rather than lively. But, far from 
being so efficacious as is generally 
imagined, from its great variability 
and, sometimes, even from its rigour, 
owing to the snow that covers the 
immense chain of the Alps during 
several months, it is highly preju- 
dicial and dangerous to certain dis- 
eases. Thus each successive year's 
experience demonstrates that it 
hastens the career of persons suffer- 
ing under advanced pulmonary 
phthisis, and that it over excites in- 
flammatory dispositions, either 
simple or complicated with gas^ 
trites. 

Provisions and Delicacies. — Not- 
withstanding the great number of 
strangers that frequent Nice, one 
may live there very economically 
by catering for one's self, as all 
kinds of provisions are cheap except 
butter, eggs, and poultry, aU drawn 
from Piedmont. Still, the price 
of poultry, considered by a notable 
housekeeper, a lady of talent, as a 
proof of the abundance, riches, and 
civilization of a country, is not very 
high. A fine chicken costs about 
25 SOUS; a pullet, 30; a fat capon, 
50 ; a turkey, 4 frs. ; beef costs 4 
sous a pound ; veal, 8 ; lamb, 6 ; 
game is very plentiful and dehcate. 
Thrushes, red partridges, snipes, 
wild ducks, beccafichi, hares, and 
wild boar are the most in request. 
A fine fat thrush is sold for 3 to 4 
sous ; a partridge, 2 frs. ; a hare, 
3 frs. 

The sea furnishes many nume>- 
rous famiUes of the fishy tribe, as 
one may observe in the ' Histoire 
JVaturelie des Principales Productions 
de ['Europe meridional e^ de celks 
principahment des Environs de Nice 
et des Alpes mariiimes (Paris, 1826-7, 
5 vols, in 8vo. with plates), by Sig. 
Risso, a savant of the city. The 
most esteemed are, the whiting, 



492 



XORtUiSRN llALY. 



{OUTE 95- NICE. 



roach, gold fish (dorada), San 
Pietro, I'lmperatoire, ii dentato, 
lobster, turbot, anchovy, sardine, 
mackerel, that arrive in immense 
numbers in the months of May and 
November ; the sublaire, reddish, 
tender, and savoury ; the girella, of 
a fine taste and very digestible ; and 
the thin delicate gudgeons, called, 
from their extreme smallness, non- 
nati (not born). 

During the winter season these 
fish double, even triple, in value. 
Anchovies and sardines rise from 
2 to 4 sous a pound. The whiting and 
the St Peter from 4 to 10 and 12. 

After having thus treated of fish, 
it may not be unsuitable to say a 
word or two of the fishermen of 
Nice. They form a fraternity to 
which there is no admission but by 
right of birth, and are distinguished 
for their morality, attention, and for 
the readiness of the women and 
cliildren to assist in the fatigues of 
the fishery. 

The paste of Nice rival those of 
Naples and of Genoa, and only cost 
4 sous a pound. Some of the na- 
tional dishes are highly reputed. 
The raviuoli is a succulent small 
minced patty of the size of a French 
nut, made of minced fowl, lamb's or 
calf's brains, marrow, parmesan, 
and eggs. Large herb cakes, called 
soli, are as rigorously eaten the 
Christmas eve as the capitone at 
Naples. The pizzaladiera, com- 
posed of onions, olives, and salted 
anchovies, are very relishing. The 
common people on the di de' morti 
always eat some of these pizzala- 
diera to excite their thirst for these 
bacchanalian feasts, the remains, in 
every nation of paganism and of 
barbarism. The tian, composed of 
ancliovies, brocoli, and eggs, owes 
its name to the earthen pan in 
which it is served ; it is a dish 
tolerably agreeable, but rather sour 
and heavy. 

The oranges of Nice, the best of 



the coast, although inferior to those 
of Malta, are perhaps the only ones 
that keep well in boxes ; they are 
largely sent to Odessa, from whence 
Nice receiA'^es wheat in exchange. 

Ewe's milk and its preparations 
generally are very good, particu- 
larly the delicious curds made in 
the mountains, and cried every 
morning in the streets. Exquisite 
dry preserves (canditi) retain the 
taste of the fruits and the perfume* 
of the flowers of the vicinity. 

Wines. — The red wines of Nice 
are strong, spirituous, and full fla- 
voured. One should ask for some 
bellet, generally taken after the 
roast meats. The Braquet, and 
the Muscat d'Aspremont are dessert 
wines ; their price is from 20 to 
30 sous a bottle, according to their 
age. The wines of Marignana, of 
Saint Tropez, Antibes, in common 
use, only cost 4 to 5 sous a bottle ; 
a good ordinary wine of La Gaude, 
which may also serve as a good 
dessert wine, is sold for 12 to 15 
sous. 

If it be intended to pass the win- 
ter at Nice it is necessary to arrive 
there about the beginning of Octo- 
ber in order to have a choice of 
lodgings. The price varies accord- 
ing to the simplicity, the elegance, 
and particularly to the exposition. 
Notwithstanding the fashionable 
arrivals, these prices seem accessi- 
ble to every fortune ; the inhabi- 
tants are reasonable, and offer apart- 
ments from 200, 300, and 600 frs. 
and upwards. 

The most preferable quarter is 
that of the Marine, principally aux 
Ponchettes, near the terrace, where 
on a southern aspect, and sheltered 
from the northerly winds hy that 
immense reck singularly called the 
Castle, the temperature generally 
fluctuates from 12 to 14 degrees. 
Here some small apartments mray 
be had from 250 to 400 frs. ; also 
larger suites, with beds for three 



SAKDINIA. — ROUTE 95. KICE. ENVIROXS. 



493 



masters and two servants, saloon 
and antechamber, from 600 to 1,000 
frs. 

The houses on the terrace offer 
many large, airy, well-furnished 
apartments from 1,800 to 2,500 frs. 
At the Croix de Marbre, the fash- 
ionable suburb, one may get a whole 
house, with garden, stable, coach 
house, and baths, for 4,000 frs.; 
6,000 frs. ; 7,000 frs.; some as high 
as 9,000 frs. 

These prices are for the winter 
season, and are only increased about 
a third or a quarter if taken for the 
whole year. Linen, plate, earthen- 
ware, kitchen utensils, are all in- 
cluded in the rent. 

It has been long customary at 
Nice to renew the furniture of the 
apartment where an invalid has 
expired, particularly when it is 
presumed that he was in a decline, 
or that his complaint was conta- 
gious. It is therefore important to 
insert a clause in the agreement to 
fix the amount of the indemnity 
should such a sad event take place. 

Carriages, &c., are very dear at 
Nice from the want of forage, which, 
joined to its mountainous situation, 
is the reason that for several years 
this city has not been garrisoned 
with a regiment of cavalry as for- 
merly. A carriage to carry one to, 
and to bring one back from, a ball, 
costs 12 frs. A saddle-horse is 
let out for 5 frs. for two hours 
only ; donkeys are consequently 
much in vogue, and parties are 
made up of from thirty to forty 
chevaucheurs at a time. 

Two diligences leave every day 
for Genoa, Turin, and France. 

Ordinorie.^. — An excellent table 
d'hote, the best in Nice, at the 
Hotel des Etrangers ; another at the 
Pension Piemontaise, at two francs 
a head. 

G'fe. — Grand Cafe Eoyal al Cor- 
so ; a private saloon is reserved for 
ladies, who may remain there with- 
out being obliged to call for any- 



thing. Cafe du Commerce. A cup 
of coffee costs three sous only ; ices, 
four sous. 

Theatre. — The Italian, and some- 
times the French, operas, comedies, 
and vaudevilles, are represented in 
a splendid and newly-constructed 
theatre. 

Bookseller. — Suchet. 

Philhai moidc Society. — Notwith- 
standing its musical title, and the 
concerts that it sometimes gives, 
this cercle is, in reality, a reading 
room, receiving the principal papers 
and reviews of France, England, 
and Italy, and possessing a well- 
assorted library of novelties. Com- 
modiously situated in the centre of 
the city, facing the south, with se- 
veral saloons and a pretty garden, 
this philharmonic reading room 
cannot but excite the lively grati- 
tude of all strangers to its founder, 
the Count of Cessoles. 

Environs. — The environs of Nice 
render it the most agreeable winter 
residence perhaps of all Italy, with- 
out speaking of the advantage, to- 
lerably rare in this country, of 
receiving letters and papers every 
morning. 

Cimier. - One of the most agree- 
able walks of the neighbourhood is 
that to the gentle ascent of Cimier, 
the site of the Roman Cemenaliuni. 
of which an amphitheatre and some 
other ruins are still visible The 
politeness of General Count de Ve- 
nanson, the ancient governor of 
Genoa, now the courteous host of a 
splendid castle on the road to Ci- 
mier, is heightened by his interest- 
ing conversation on his various 
travels in Europe, and his residence 
in Russia. 

From the convent on the brow of 
the hill there is a delightful view ; 
on the place opposite there are two 
large evergreen oaks of a most 
remarkable vigour of growth. 

Saint Andre. —The grotto of Saint 
Andre, although partly mutilated 
by the new road lately cut through 



494 



NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 95. NICE. ENVIRONS. 



it, is an attraction for another pro- 
menade. Amongst the rocks be- 
yond this grotto, the botanist will 
observe a number of plants peculiar 
to the African coast, amongst others 
he will distinguish the Brassica ba- 
learico, which does not appear to 
be met with in any other part of 
Italy. These vegetable phenome- 
na are more singular from the sun's 
rays never penetrating to the bot- 
tom of these ravines. 

Magnan — The vale of Magnan, 
on the road to France, is very ro- 
mantic, and agreeably temperate, 
retaining the heat produced by the 
sun's rays. 

VaV Oscuro. — A visit to the cele- 
brated Val' Oscuro will prove a 
most agreeable j aunt. A dry, warm 
day should be chosen, and as the 
bottom of the valley is rocky, and 
sometimes marshy, it would be well 
to hire a horse, or an ass, for the 
journey. The road leads by the 
Buffa, country house of Count Ces- 
soles, who does the honours of his 
ananas and flowers with much 
amiability. 

Monte Calvo. — Monte Calvo 
{Monte Caiio) offers another most 
interesting excursion. One should 
leave at nine o'clock in the morn- 
ing, carry a breakfast with him, and 
go on horseback, as the asses are 
not strong enough for the day's 
work. There is a vast grotto on 
the road that is celebrated for its 
stalactites ; to visit it the guide is 
obliged to get a ladder from the 
neighbouring village, A most ex- 
tensive panorama of the environs 
of Nice may be contemplated from 
the summit. On one side are the 
French Alps, Saint Jeanet, Le Broc, 
Saint Martin de Lansosca, the Fer- 
rieres, Dalmas le Sauvage, the Ma- 
donne de Sinestras ; on the other, 
the village of Falicon, perched like 
an aerie on the point of a rock ; a 
little nearer, a truncated cone re* 
sembling the crater of an extinct 
volcano makes one suppose that 



this country may have once been a 
volcanic region. 

Drap. — A visit may be commo- 
diously made to this place in tne 
omnibus that follows the course of 
the Paglion. 

Its excellent, sparkling white 
wine somewhat recals the blan- 
quette de Liraoux. 

ViUa Franca. — The road to Villa 
Franca is carriageable, but there is 
so much up and down-hill work, 
that it is better to go on horseback, 
or even on foot, which last is the 
most agreeable way, as the walk is 
really charming, taking about three 
hours. 

In the months of December and 
January, the gardens of Riquier, a 
pretty village on the left-hand side 
of the road, are resplendent with 
the brilliant colours of the anemone, 
similar to the villa Pamfili near 
Rome. From the brow of the hill 
there is a delightful view of Nice, 
of its terrace, port, and of the 
coasts of France. After a slight 
descent and another hill, the calm, 
limpid, azure waters of the gulf of 
Villa Franca are discovered, whose 
coasts, bordered with an evergreen 
tapesty, in which the dark glis- 
tering leaves of the carob tree agree- 
ably contrast with the pale green 
olive, and unite to recal the lakes 
of Switzerland. A little further on 
one perceives its communication 
with the sea. 

The town of Villa Franca con- 
tains nothing remarkable, but from 
a distance, joined to its magnificent 
bay, it presents an imposing coup- 
d'oeil, particularly from the seats 
cut in the rock on the road to Beau- 
lieu. Travellers from the east de- 
clare that this aspect is very simi- 
lar to Beyrout and its neighbour- 
hood. 

Beaulieu. — It will be found agree- 
able to continue from Villa Franca 
to Beaulieu, worthy its name from 
the mildness of the air, and the 
rich cultivation of its plain. The 



SARDINIA. — ROUTE 96. SWITZERLAND TO MILAN. 



495 



curious will not fail visiting the 
three olive trees, extraordinary for 
their size, and whose ages are un- 
known. 

The lighthouse is also worthy a 
visit ; its reflectors were made in 
France according to the system of 
M. Fresnel ; the light appears to be 
much more brilliant than that of 
the Antibes, perceived from the 
terrace at Nice. 

If one wishes to shorten the walk, a 
boat may be taken at Villa Franca 
as far as Passable, near Beaulieu. 

Saint Hospice. — A trip must also 
be taken to the gulf of St Hospice, 
to see the tunny fishery which 
generally takes place in February 
and March. M. Giosan, the owner 
of the madrague, lives at Nice, and 
obligingly indicates the hour the 
nets are drawn, which takes place 
three times a day. 

St Hospice is also visited for its 
famous dish, the bouilla-baisso, a 
national matelotte of a peculiar 
taste. It is necessary to order it the 
previous evening, or perhaps two 
days before, that Gioanettea may 
have time enough to procure the 
necessary fish, which for this dish 
must be of the very best ; the fish 
taken near the rock are the most 
savoury. 

Whilst the repast is being pre- 
pared, and if the tunny fishery 
leaves a moment's leisure, the tower 
of the church on the point is worth 
a visit. The path to this tower 
leads through a vineyard that pro- 
duces a very agreeable white wine, 
an excellent accompaniment to the 
bouilla-baisso. 

Mont-Gros. — The tour of Mont 
Gros procures another very agree- 
able jaunt, either on foot, on horse- 
back, or on a donkey, and should 
be made in a warm day ; after ad- 
miring, from difierent points, the 
brilliant aspect of Nice and its sea, 
the road gradually makes a detour, 
and the white village of la Trinite 
is perceived at our feet. The cold 



air already begins to make an im- 
pression; and the arid, precipitous 
sides of the mountain, undermined 
by torrents and streams, a chaos of 
stones, a misshapen monument of 
the revolutions of the globe, that 
human industry has been able to 
employ in the construction of roads 
only, start up before one's eyes. 
Deep gorges and unfrequented tor- 
tuous paths bring one at last to the 
junction of the old road to Genoa, 
and almost in sight of Villa Franca. 
The scene then changes as if by 
enchantment ; instead of the arid, 
sterile nature just left behind, the 
eye joyfully discovers a cultivated 
country, embellished with the 
flowers of spring, waving with 
orange and lemon trees, varied with 
the dark green carob and the large 
old olive trees of Beaulieu, and bor- 
dered by the calm, blue waters of 
the Mediterranean. 



KOUTE 96. 




SWITZERLAND TO MILAN 


BY THE 


SPLUGEN. 






Postes 


From Ragatz to Coire 


- H 


— Thusis - 


*4 


— Andeer - - - 




— Splugen - 


1 


— Campo Dolcino 


- 2i 


— Chiavenna 




— Riva . - - 


1 


— Colico - - - 


1 


— Varenne - - - 


1- 


— Lecco - - - 


li 


— Carsaniga 


1^ 


— Monza - - - 


1 


— Milan - - - 


^ 1 
*4 



A diligence from Zurich to Milan 
passes through Eagatz every day, 
taking the above route. 

For travellers from Suabia, or 
the canton of the Grisons, to Venice 
or Milan, this is the shortest route. 

COIRE. 

Hotels : Poste, and Croix Blanche, 
Coire, the capital of the canton 
of the Grisons, is situated in an 
agreeable valley, commanded by 
lofty mountains, on the left bank of 
the Plessur, and within half a league 



4D6 



KOnTlIERN ITALY.— ROUTE 96 SWITZERLAND TO MILAN. 



of the junction of that river with 
the Rhine. 

The principal routes that centre 
at Coire are those leading by Zizers 
towards Sargans, and thence to St 
Gall; and by Zizers and Klos into 
the Prettigau ; that to Davos by 
Mont Strela; toLenz, and thence to 
La Chiavenna, Tirano, or the val- 
leys of Engadine ; that to Reiche- 
nau, and thence by Disentis to the 
cantons of Uri and Valais, or to 
the village of Splugen, and thence 
across the mountain of the same 
name to Chiavenna, or across the 
Bernardino to Bellinzona. 

The cathedral, built by Bishop 
Tello, about the year 780, contains 
numerous monuments, among which 
are those of the families Latour, 
Aspermont, Planta, Salis, and 
others. The episcopal palace con- 
tains a number of portraits, repre- 
senting bishops and other distin- 
guished persons, in the costume of 
the country. There are several 
fine cabinets of plants and minerals 
at Coire. 

The environs of Coire are very 
pleasing, and command fine views 
of tiie Galanda. covered Avith pas- 
turages and numerous hamlets, as 
well as of the mountains of the 
valley of the Rhine, with the gla- 
ciers of the Bijdus, 

The routes which lead through 
tlie Grisons to Splugen unite at 
Ragatz, near the celebrated baths of 
PfefFers, described in 'Central Eu- 
rope,' page 244. From Ragatz to 
Coire (the capital of the canton of 
the Grisons) is four leagues. The 
road crosses the Rhine by the Avood- 
en bridge of Tardis, and traverses, 
by another bridge, the formidable 
torrent of Lanquart, which has 
often menaced the surrounding 
country with destruction. Here 
commences the superb road, which 
joins, at three quarters of a league 
from Bellinzona, that of the canton 
of the Tessin ; and forms a commu- 
nication between Italy, Eastern and 



Northern Switzerland, and Germa- 
ny. From Coire to the village of 
Splugen the road resembles a ma- 
jestic avenue to an immense park. 
Two leagutis from Coire, the two 
arms of the Rhine, viz., the Vorder 
Rhein and the Hinter Rhein, unite 
in face of the j)icturesque castle of 
Reichenau ; and the road passes 
over these impetuous streams by 
two single-arched wooden bridges. 
From Reichenau to the small town 
of Tusis the road lies at the base of 
the luxuriant Mont Heinzenberg, 
m the valley of Domleschg, ren- 
dered sterile by the inundations of 
the Hinter Rhein and the torrent 
of Nolla. Here, in a peculiarly pic- 
turesque situation, are ruins of the 
castle of Realta (called likewise 
Hohen Rhetien), supposed to have 
been built by Tuscan emigrants, 
during some part of the middle ages. 
From Tusis to Andeer the road 
passes through the valley of 
Schams, — crossing, by a fine 
bridge near Tusis, the destructive 
torrent of Nolla, and approaching, 
by a grotto pierced through a solid 
rock, the wild, magnificent, and 
stupendous ravine, called the Rheiu- 
wald, or Valley of the Forest of the 
Rhine, through which that river 
and the road wind, amidst perpen- 
dicular rocks, not less than three 
thousand feet high, and clothed to 
their summits with stately firs, the 
branches of which canopy the nar- 
row glen beneath them. The Rhine 
runs foaming and raging with ter- 
rific violence close to the road. 
On approaching the Splugen the 
ravine widens, and displays magni- 
ficent cascades. This defile, be- 
tween Coire and Splugen, bears 
undeservedly the name of " Via 
Mala." At the village of Splugen 
the road divides into two branches, 
separated from each other by a 
chain of lofty mountains. One of 
these branches, called the Bernar- 
dino road, goes from the village of 
Splugen to San Bernardino, Mi-^ 



ALPS. — ROUTE 97. GEKOA TO MILAN. PA VI A 



497 



socco, and Bellinzona ; while the 
other, called the Sphigen road, goes 
from Splugento Chiavenna, which 
drive usually occupies about seven 
hours, full five of which are spent 
in passing the mountain of Splu- 
gen. The Austro-Louibardo custom 
house is two leagues beyond the 
village of Splugen, where passports 
are examined and luggage searched 
— the signature of the Austrian 
minister is absolutely necessary to 
look beyond the frontier. The road 
leading down to Chiavenna has 
been formed into terraces ; and the 
descent is sufficiently gentle to 
preclude the necessity of using a 
drag chain. The road gradually 
displays the rich culture of Italy, 
and the mildness of the Italian 
climate compensates for the cold- 
ness of the Alps. 

On the Bernardino road the dis- 
tance from the village of Hinter 
Rhein to the first refuge, Berghaus, 
is nearly two leagues ; and three 
hours are usually occupied in go- 
ing. Berghaus is a large edifice, 
situated in a wild country on the 
margin of a lake, whose waters 
give birth to the Moesa, a torrent 
which falls into the Ticino, about 
three quarters of a league from Bel- 
linzona. From Berghaus to the 
hamlet of St Bernardino is one 
league and a half; and midway 
the road passes the Moesa on a 
lofty bridge. St Bernardino is fre- 
quented during summer on account 
of its mineral waters. 

To Misocco from St Bernardino 
is three leagues. From Misocco to 
Bellinzona is six leagues and a 
quarter ; and, three quarters of a 
league from Bellinzona, at the 
bridge of the Moesa, the route of 
the Bernardino joins the superb 
high road of the canton of the 
Tessin, wliich terminates at the 
base of St Gothard 

Travellers may reach Milan by 
going from Bellinzona toMagadino 
on the Lago Maggiore; whence a 



steam-boat starts, at six in the 
morning, every day of the Aveek 
except Sunday, for Sesto Calende ; 
where it arrives about noon. 

Travellers may likewise reach 
the high road to Milan by means 
of the steam-boats which ply daily 
on the lake of Como. 

ROUTE 97. 

GENOA TO MILAN. 



From Genoa to Novi - 
From Novi to Tortona 

— Voghera 

— Casteggio 

— Pavia 

— Binasco 

— Milan 



Postes. 

- H 

- 2k 

- u 

- H 

- U 
_H 

19i 



The former part of the route has 
been described from Turin to Genoa. 
A bridge of boats leads over the Po 
to Porto di Rea and Porto Curone. 
The Piedmontese frontier is passed 
at GraveUone, and after the Ticino 
has been crossed by an old covered 
bridge, the road enters 

Pavia (Inns : Albergo ddla Lomhar- 
dia ; Posta), a city of the highest his- 
torical celebrity, the origin of which 
is, however, unknown, or knovna 
only to conjecture more or less rea- 
sonable. The most generally-re- 
ceived opinion is, that some Ligu- 
rian tribes, dwelling by the conflu- 
ence of the Po and the Ticino, laid 
the foundation of Pavia, calling it 
Ticinum, prior to the existence of 
Rome itself. It was sacked, they 
say, by Brennus, 367 years before 
the Christian era, and at a subse- 
quent period by Hannibal, to avenge 
its fidelity to the Romans. When 
the Romans in their turn became 
masters of Cisalpine Gaid, they ele- 
vated Pavia to the rank of one of 
the first cities of the republic, as a 
recompense for that faithfulness 
which had drawn upon it the de- 
structive wrath of Hannibal, To- 
wards the fifth century the history 
of Pavia ceases to be obscure. At 



498 NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 97. GENOA TO MILAN. PAVIA. 



that epoch it fell under the domin- 
ion of the Goths, to become in 
consequence subject to the kings of 
Lombardy, who selected it as the 
seat of government. It soon en- 
dured great calamities — piUaged 
and burnt by the Infidels in 924 ; 
compelled twenty-seven years later 
to open its gates to Otto the Great ; 
and in 1004 devoured by a terrible 
conflagration. Having arisen from 
its ashes, it was doomed to en- 
counter fresh vicissitudes, to which 
an end was not put untH the twelfth 
century, when Pavia achieved its 
independence, and preserved its free- 
dom nearly two hundred years. 
After having experienced aU the 
horrors of war, it was doomed to 
feel a two-fold scourge not less ter- 
rific, for it was wasted by the plague 
in 1476 and again in 1483. Pavia 
has also acquired historical celebrity 
from the decisive battle fought be- 
neath its waUs in 1525, where, in 
the vast park close to the city, 
Frances I of France was taken pri- 
soner by the troops of the victorious 
Emperor Charles V. On this occa- 
sion the citizens gave public mani- 
festation of their joy — an impru- 
dence for which they paid dearly 
in the sequel. In two years the 
French leader, the Count de Lautrec, 
possessed himself of Pavia, and 
abandoned it to the plunder of his 
soldiery for seven whole days. 

From this epoch the gradual de- 
cay of Pavia is commonly dated. 
Prince Eugene of Savoy, the Gauls, 
Spaniards, and the French subju- 
gated it successively. In 1815 it 
returned under the dominion of the 
house of Austria. 

This brief recital will give the 
reader a sufficient notion of the ca- 
lamities Pavia has sustained, and of 
its importance in the scale of Italian 
politics. 

Pavia is situated on the canal of 
that name, about six leagues from 
Milan, and on the left bank of the 
Ticino, whfch in this part is broad, 



deep, and navigable, and not far 
from its embouchure into the Po. 

The city is now the chief station 
of the province, the residence of a 
suffragan bishop mider the arch- 
bishopric of Milan, the seat of a 
tribimal of the first instance, a 
chamber of commerce, and a finance 
administration. 

The faubourg called Borgo Ticino 
is united to the city by a handsome 
covered bridge, three hundred and 
forty paces long, the pavement of 
which is in marble. This faubourg 
has suffered greatly from recent in- 
undations. 

A small river, called Carona, 
which turns several mills, runs 
through the midst of the city, and 
passes by subterraneous channels 
underneath almost every street. 

After having encountered so many 
of the vicissitudes of war and pesti- 
lence, it is not extraordinary that 
Pavia should present no monuments 
of its pristine splendour, unless in- 
deed some churches of the middle 
ages — such as the cathedral, where 
is displayed that interesting marble 
monument of the fourteenth century 
with its bas-reliefs of rare workman- 
ship, known as St Augustin's arch ; 
the church of St Michael exhibits 
no scant number of paintings and 
sculptures— favourable specimens of 
the state of the arts in the four- 
teenth century, an epoch further 
called to mind at the sight of some 
towers near the hospital ; formerly 
they were so numerous in Pavia 
that it had the surname of the City 
of the Hmidred Towers. 

The streets are generally straight, 
except the principal thoroughfare 
running from the covered bridge of 
the Ticino to the gate of Milan. 
The public places are sufficiently 
spacious. 

The castle of Pavia was built by 
one of the Viscontis, to be used as a 
palace, but not a fortress, although 
it was defended with towers and 
battlements ; it is now a barrack. 



AUSTR lA.— ROUTE 97. GENOA TO MILAN. PAVIA. 



499 



There, in 1404, Catherine Visconti, 
Duchess of Milan, was imprisoned 
by Francis Yisconti, her brother-in- 
law, that he might seize upon her 
dominions. In the same castle, and 
from the same motive, was a similar 
crime committed by Louis the Moor, 
upon the person of John Galeazzo 
Visconti, Duke of Milan. It was 
also in this castle that 300 French- 
men resisted, and that without ar- 
tillery, not only the whole popula- 
tion, but the aid given the assailants 
by 4,000 men at arms. Here, also, 
to record a more peaceful character- 
istic, was the library of which Pe- 
trarch was the conservator. 

The buildings worthy of notice 
en account of their architecture or 
the lovely gardens annexed to them 
are the following : — The palaces of 
Olveano, Malaspina (where are to 
be seen a collection of engravings, 
paintings, &c.), and Majno ; the col- 
lege of Ghislieri, where the students 
are maintained at the expense of 
the government ; the college Barro- 
maus, founded by St. Charles ; the 
style of this building is very remark- 
able — Pelligrini was the architect ; 
the frescoes in the saloon are highly 
commended, they were executed by 
Juccari and Nebbri. 

Independently of the places we 
fiave specified, Pavia contains six 
parishes, ten chapels of ease, two 
hospitals for orphans, and two 
theatres, but it derives the most 
estimation from its university, the 
foundation of which some attribute 
to Charlemagne, and others to 
Charles IV., at the instigation of 
Galeazzo Visconti. Soon after its 
establishment it acquired a European 
renown which it has never failed to 
preserve. Without dwelling on the 
illustrious scholars who in its earlier 
career presided over its studies, we 
will quote among the moderns the 
names of Franck, Splanzani, Volta, 
Scarpa, Tamburini, Panizza, and 
Bordoni, to show that the univer- 



sity of Pavia has in no wise dege- 
nerated. 

The anatomical museum, founded 
by Scarpa, is unquestionably the 
most perfect in Italy, whilst the en- 
lightened cares of the present pro- 
fessor, M. Panizza, add daily to its 
reputation. The university possesses, 
in addition, a cabinet of pathology, 
of hydraulics and natural philosophy, 
a chemical laboratory, a library — 
everything, in short, essential to a 
public body of the collegiate cha- 
racter. The students are upwards 
of a thousand. 

The diminution of her wealth and 
populousness is attributed, and not 
unreasonably, to the suppression of 
the military and theoretical schools, 
the artillery ground, the cannon 
foundry, and the arsenal, establish- 
ments which Pavia had long enjoyed. 
Wines, hemp, silk, cheese, grain, 
and especially rice, are almost the 
exclusive articles of the trade of this 
city. The greater part of these pro- 
ductions are exported, for which the 
frontier position of Pavia is favour- 
able. The fair held here continues 
eight days. 

Amongst the many great men to 
whom Pavia has given birth is 
Bordoni, the eminent mathemati- 
cian. 

Near the city ramparts are the 
sluices of tiae canal, a work well 
worthy of inspection, as it has been 
judiciously conceived and inge- 
niously executed. The population 
is about 23,300. 

A few years ago, among the old 
towers still in existence, was shown 
that which was the prison of the 
renowned Bolzio, whose tomb is still 
visible in the church of St. Augustin. 

On the departure from Pavia, the 
roads skirts along the canal called 
Naviglio, which connects the waters 
of the Adda with those of the Ticino. 
In about a league and a half is the 
little hamlet of 

Torre de Margano, in front of 



500 



NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 97. MILAN. HOTELS. 



which a broad avenue leads to the 
celebrated Chartreuse of Pavia, de- 
scribed in Excursions from Milan. 

Binasco is the last relay — a town 
which offers nothing to the inquiries 
of the curious except its old castle, 
memorable from a heartless tragedy 
played within its walls. Jt was here 
that Beatrice di Tenda perished mi- 
serably, sacrificed by her ungrateful 
husband, Philip Mary Visconti, to 
wbose wealth and power she had so 
materially contributed. The un- 
happy princess, as well as her pre- 
tended accomplice, Orombelli, were 
beheaded in the night of the 13th 
September, 1418. 

The road continues by the side of 
the canal to 

MILAN. 

Hotels : Albergo Reale (Royal 
Hotel). This is a first-rate house, 
clean, with good attendance, civility, 
and an excellent table d'hote at four 
o'clock ; the charges are printed in 
a small book, with other valuable in- 
formation, a copy of which is given 
to each traveller on arriving at the 
hotel ; they are as follows : break- 
fast, 1 fr. 50 c. ; with eggs, 2 frs. ; 
with meat 2 frs. 50 c. ; a la four- 
chette, 3 frs.; table d'hote, inclu- 
ding wine, 4 frs. ; dinner in private 
apartment, 5 frs. ; supper, including 
wine and dessert, 3 frs. Bed rooms, 
2 frs. to 3 frs. ; suites of apartments 
according to the number of rooms, 
<fec. &c. Mr. Bruschetti, the pro- 
prietor, has added a well selected 
gallery of old paintings by the best 
masters. The greatest attention is 
paid to the guests. 

Handsome carriages and horses 
belonging to the proprietor are let 
to persons staying in the house at 
16 frs. a day, or 8 frs. the half day ; 
baths are also on the premises. 
Altogether, it is a comfortable and 
good hotel. 

Hotel de Ville de Milan , an excel- 



lent, well-conducted house ; table 
d'hote at four o'clock, in a large, 
new, and elegant saloon on the first 
floor. The whole of the house has 
been newly furnished. 

Hotel Reichmann, also very good ; 
the house is large, and pleasantly 
situated in cours Eomain. 

Hotel Grand Bretagne. — This is 
also a large, well conducted esta- 
blishment, with a table d'hote at 
half-past four o'clock every day. 

Hotel Marino, — This is a conve- 
niently situated, second-rate hotel, 
with the advantage of a restaurante 
attached, where persons may dine 
a la carte ; also a very good table 
d'hote at four. 

Hotel St. Marc, a second-rate 
house, near the post office, with very 
good accommodation, and a table 
d'hote at four. The bills at all are 
made out in French francs and cen- 
times. 

This handsome city contains a 
population of 148,000 inhabitants, 
and being the first in Italy coming 
from Switzerland, must to travellers 
be a place of more than ordinary 
interest ; yet to read the modern 
demi-satirical criticisms in Murray's 
Hand-Book, one would be more in- 
duced to avoid Milan altogether than 
visit it. Without pretending to be 
either a painter, a sculptor, or a 
musician, I beg, in the first place, to 
observe that to see the cathedral 
alone is worth a journey from London. 
The triumphal arch of Peace, the 
modern Arena, the numerous ancient 
churches, the Brera Museum — all 
and each of these must prove a 
source of great delight to every un- 
prejudiced mind. 

The public pavement is uni- 
formly good. The sides are formed 
of large fiag-stone, with granite 
curbs, laid with singular exactness. 
In the carriage way double lines of 
the same flat stone are also placed 



AUSTRIA. — ROUTE 97. MILAN. CATHEDRAL. 



501 



as even as a room floor ; the wheels 
roll upon these, and the motion of 
vehicles through the streets is 
thereby rendered so extremely easy, 
that instead of the usual rattling 
noise, a gentle rumbling sound alone 
is heard. The streets are generally 
wide, and wow lighted with gas. The 
shops are well and variously supplied 
with every article of luxury and 
dress ; and the theatres, particularly 
the Grand Scala, are celebrated all 
over Europe. I would therefore 
strongly advise all those who cannot 
spare time to visit the more southern 
parts of Italy, to at least extend 
their journey for a few days to the 
delightful city of Milan. As a place 
of residence for English families, 
Milan is not celebrated, although to 
those whose tastes have not been 
vitiated it ofiFers many advantages. 
Here cheapness, elegance, and com- 
fort can be combined. During the 
winter season, which comprises about 
four months in the year, there is a 
succession of balls at the Casino de 
Nobili, and at the della Societa del 
Giardino, to which foreigners find 
no difiiculty in being admitted, and 
where the English are received with 
^marked attention. At the theatres 
there are also numerous balls and 
masquerades, and at La Scala there 
is an opera performed five or six 
times a week, in which are engaged 
artists of the first talent. Good 
furnished rooms are difficult to be 
procured ; but families taking un- 
furnished apartments by the year (of 
which there is a plentiful variety, 
and cost, on an average, 1 00 Milanese 
livres for each room, or three pounds 
per annum), and furnishing these 
rooms themselves, they would find 
this mode uncommonly reasonable, 
as furniture is very cheap, and will 
always sell for two-thirds of the 
original cost ; or furniture may be 
hired at a moderate rate. On the 
beautiful lakes Maggiore, Como, 
Varese, Lugano, Iseo, Garda, and 
in the Brianza, are excellent casinos, 



or country houses, ready furnished, 
and can be had for 500 or 600 Aus- 
trian livres per annum, in which 
would be comprised seven or eight 
rooms, with a coach house, a stable, 
a kitchen garden, &c. Five hundred 
Austrian livres are about seventeen 
pounds sterling. Of course smaller 
houses could be got proportionably 
less. To families, therefore, who 
are inclined to remain any length of 
time in this neighbourhood, it would 
be advisable to take a bouse in 
Milan, and another on one of the 
lakes, by the year; so that as the 
hot weather comes on they might 
retire to the latter, and thus make 
an agreeable change between town 
and country. 

Climate, — Seasonable, excellent 
for persons in good health, but less 
favourable to valetudinarians from 
the severity of the winter, and from 
fogs in spring and autumn, parti- 
cularly during the night. The vici- 
nity of rice grounds should make 
one avoid the quarters Porta Tosa, 
Romana, Ticinese ; but the quarters 
Porta Orientale, Nuova, Comasina, 
Tenaglia, on the north, being ele- 
vated, and refreshed by the breezes 
from the lake are very salubrious. 
They particularly suit sufferers in 
the gout, nervous or other chronic 
affections, except pulmonary com- 
plaints, which require a milder tem- 
perature. Physician's fee, 3 frs. per 
visit. 

The Cathedral, or the Duomo. — 
Those who survey this enormous 
pile in its ensemble, must feel con- 
duced that it merits the repute of 
being the most wonderful of Gothic 
edifices in the word. The whole is 
composed of white marble, so little 
discoloured by time, that, when the 
sun shines on this vast quarry, its 
reflected rays are intenselj'' bright. 
The upper part of this edifice is the 
most astonishing, an overwhelming 
profusion of alto-relievos and figures, 
reckoned master-pieces of historical 
design, adorning the points of so 



502 



NORTHERN ITALY.— ROUTE 97. MILAN, CATHEDRAL. 



many needles, or minarets, and 
sculptured pinnacles. 

The foundation stone of this tem- 
ple was laid in the year 1386. The 
Milanese have, in progress of time, 
furnished, by their munificence, all 
the means necessary for its con- 
struction. But the works went on 
very slowly till the year 1805, when 
they were resumed with singular 
alacrity, in consequence of a decree 
issued by Bonaparte, and to him it 
owes the construction of two-thirds 
of its splendid facade, a considerable 
number of its statues, and the per- 
fect condition in which it now strikes 
the eye with wonder and admiration ; 
blended, however, with the liberali- 
ties of the Emperor of Austria. 

The amazing number of " needles," 
or " spires," statues, and other em- 
bellishments, that appear, one after 
the other, with a prodigious rapidity, 
induce us to believe that this eighth 
wonder of the world (as it is generally 
termed) will rise to completion within 
not many years. The greater part 
of the basso-relievos and statues 
adorning the fafade are by the most 
celebrated sculptors. The traveller 
will regard, with increased astonish- 
ment and delight the beautiful exe- 
cution of the numerous groups in the 
highest degree of sculptural relief. 
The basso-relievos above the middle 
door represent the ' Creation of Eve.' 
The double pillars on each side of 
the great entrance door are equally 
enriched with works in sculpture. 
The statues in front represent the 
Apostles and Evangelists. 

On each side of the great balcony, 
crowning the middle door, is a sta- 
tue, one representing the Old, the 
other the New Testament. The 
inscription " Marise Nascenti," in 
the middle of the front, reminds the 
beholder of the dedication of the 
founder of the church. 

On entering the sacred walls of 
this astonishing work of men and 
ages, one feels the force of its vene- 
rable character and extraordinary 



magnitude. The interior ornament; 
of the centre door is supported by 
two columns of granite, which at- 
tract the eye by their colossal size 
and dimensions. The form of the 
temple is that of a Latin cross. 
Nine arches of immense proportions 
describe its length from the door to 
the opening of the cross. In the 
perspective of its immense nave, and 
in its double pair of well-propor- 
tioned aisles, the traveller will recog- 
nize the perfection of the pointed 
style. The vaultings of this superbly 
constructed roof spring, with a bold- 
ness beyond expression, from lofty 
clustered columns, fifty-two in num- 
ber, whose very capitals are enriched 
with canopied imagery. 

The three large windows behind 
the choir are remarkable from their 
enormous size, variety, and beauty. 
These windows are filled up wijh 
tracery and stained glass, in whose 
colours ruby and dark blue predo- 
minate, which gives a deeper and 
more solemn interest to the place. 
The paintings of the above-men- 
tioned windows, as well as those of 
the narrow lancet-form, represent 
subjects from the Scriptures. 

The lantern is an astonishing 
combination of grandeur and ele- 
gance. Brought out of the pervading 
mass of shade by the light streaming 
from this cupola, the tabernacle of 
the great altar appears with sur- 
prising effect. Two magnificent 
organs enrich this venerable temple. 
Two bronze pulpits encircle large 
pillars, and are supported at the 
bottom by gigantic figures of th^ 
same metal and of extraordinary 
merit, both for workmanship and 
modelling. 

The lofty stalls of the canons are 
richly carved of oak, and the interior 
part of the choir is formed by superb- 
ly-wrought basso-relievos, which re- 
flect great honour on the artists. 

Under the choir are two subter- 
ranean chapels. The first, com- 
monly known under the appellation 



ATJSTRIA. — ROUTE 97. MILAN. CATHEDRAL. 



503 



•of Scurolo, is adorned with eight 
columns, supporting a vault in- 
crusted all over with ornamental de- 
tails of stucco-work. £y a spacious 
-gallery, all lined with marble from 
the finest Italian quarries, and by a 
portal ornamented with beautiful 
columns, having the capitals and 
bases richly gilt, you enter the sepul- 
chral chapel of St. Charles Borromeo. 
It is of an octagonal form, and the 
vaulted ceiling of this " radiant 
room" is decorated with a succession 
of silver tablets representing, in 
highly relieved chasings, the most 
remarkable events of the life of this 
famed prelate. They represent — 
first, his baptism at Arona; second, 
created archbishop at the age of 
twenty-two; third, gives 20,000 
scudi to the poor of Milan ; fourth, 
administering the sacrament; fifth^ 
his life attempted while at his devo- 
tions ; sixth, procession through 
Milan on the termination of the 
plague ; seventh, illness and death at 
the age of forty-six, and eighth, his 
canonization. His virtues are alle- 
gorically represented by eight silver 
cariatides, and form subjects of ex- 
quisitely-finished designs. Above 
the altar stands the sarcophagus of 
crystal, containing the venerated re- 
mains of this champion of the church, 
that appears arrayed in pontifical 
garments, studded with precioas 
stones. His crosiers and mitre are 
superb. The sarcophagus is placed 
on supports of wrought silver, and 
enriched with the armorial bearings, 
in massive gold, of Phillip IV., King 
of Spain, vrhose gift it is. But who 
can convey an idea, by the power of 
words, of all the splendour that so 
many metallic carvings impart to 
this splendid chapel ? St. Charles's 
day (the 24th of November), is a 
venerated feast in the calendar of 
Milan. To see this splendid tomb 
one person must pay 5 frs. ; a dozen 
persons pay no more. 

The sacristies, whose doors are 
surmounted by Gothic ornaments 
highly esteemed, possess many ob- 



jects of art and antiquity, and, 
among the rest, two great silver 
statues representing St. Ambrose and 
St. Charles, arrayed in their pontifical 
robes. Behind the choir is the sta- 
tue of St. Bartholomew, frightfully 
indicative of the sculptor's anatomical 
knowledge ; for it represents this 
martyr, new flayed, with his skin 
hanging over his shoulders. 

Behind the choir are also several 
sepulchral monuments, more or less 
remarkable ; but the enlightened 
traveller will long stop to consider 
the famous mausoleum (in one of the 
chapels of the transept) erected to 
Gian Giacomo de' Medici, with his 
statue in brass, cast by Aretino, after 
the design of Michael Angelo. Near 
this monument is a door, from whence 
a winding staircase leads to the top 
of the cathedral. It is impossible, 
as we have before said, to form a just 
idea of the exterior decorations of 
this immense and venerable pile, 
without ascending to its roofs, where 
alone the fret- works, carvings, and 
sculptures can be viewed to advan- 
tage. To ascend to the top a few 
cents are charged. 

When the traveller ascends to the 
outside of the roof, or rather series 
of roofs, to behold this "holy city" 
in the air, this sainted assemblage, 
or '' hanging gallery," of consecrated 
statues, he is quite at a loss on 
which side to fix his attention. 

As he steps round the octagonal 
platform that supports the pyramid, 
on which rises the gilded figure of 
the Virgin, he views palaces and 
churches, with their broad fronts and 
soaring pinnacles ; hospitals, gates, 
promenades, and the surrounding 
villas, pass before him in brilliant 
succession. 

Beyond the walls the prospect on 
every side is indescribably glorious. 
A rich plain extends to the Alps on 
one side, to the Appennines and the 
skies on the other. To the beautiful 
picture of a country like that which 
is commanded from such an amazing 
height, a back-ground is given which 



504 



NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 97. MILAN. CATHEDRAL. 



baffles all powers in the attempt of 
seizing even upon the faintest shadow 
of an expression illustrative of its 
sublimities. The whole chain of 
mountains, which stretch themselves 
from Savoy to the Grisons, and ter- 
minate only in the Tyrol, rise dis- 
tinctly and brilliantly before the 
gazer with unutterable majesty. 

DIMENSIONS. 

Metres. 

Interior length oftliis Cathedral, 
from the entrance door to the 
extremity of the choir . 1,481,392 

Breadth of the two lateral arms 
of the Latin cross . . 766.476 

Breadth of the middle nave . 191,371 

Heijiht of the principal nave 
from the pavement to the 
vault 468,017 

Diameter of the columns . . 25,282 

Thickness of the walls . . 25,285 

Height of the columns, reckon- 
ing the basis and the capital . 243,924 

Height from the pavement to 
the summit of the cupola . 644,514 

Height of the lantern . . . 89,240 

Exterior height of the great 
needle above the lantern . 291,519 

Height of the statue in gilt 
copper, crowning the needle . 41,646 

Interior height, reckoning the 
lantern 733,755 

Height from the pavement to 
the top of the statue . . 1,066,719 

Churches. — The great majority of 
the churches in Milan will scarcely 
reward the traveller for the time 
necessary to inspect them. The fol- 
lowing have been selected, although 
all more or less possess some inte- 
resting object. 

Santa Maria delle Grazie. — This 
stately sanctuary, greeting the eye 
from afar, was erected towards the 
end of the fifteenth century. Its 
truly majestic dome, the choir, and 
the side chapels were executed after 
the design of Bramante. The front, 
exhibiting a specimen of very simple 
architecture, is built of brick, ac- 
cording to the Gothic style. The 
paintings are very numerous, some 
of which are by Caravaggio, Charles 
Urbino, Nuvolone, Guocchi, Mont- 
alto, Zenale, &c. 

The refectory of the convent is 



justly celebrated and visited on 
account of the large fresco by Leo- 
nardo da Vinci, representing the 
' Last Supper.' In this grand work 
simplicity of general design and 
force of individual expression were 
happily united ; but it is mortifying 
to observe that this truly fine piece 
of scripture-history painting, which 
the Christian and the connoisseur 
may contemplate with equal admi- 
ration, is inevitably going to ruin. 
It is asserted that the true causes of 
the present faded and decayed state 
of this celebrated fresco are the bad 
quality of the materials of which the 
wall itself was constructed, and its 
exposure to the north. It must, 
however, be highly gratifying to our 
feelings to know that the abilities of 
Morghen and other eminent artists 
have secured the Cenacolo from the 
grasp of dull forgetfulness, by en-r 
gravings that have for ever esta- 
blished their own fame. The lower 
part of this famous painting is about 
seven or eight feet from the floor of 
the large and lofty apartment. At 
the opposite end of the refectory is a 
fresco "■ Crucifixion,' painted on an 
equally large scale, by Montorfano. 
It bears the date of 1495, and is 
considered a fine composition. To 
visit the refectory it is necessary to 
call the guardian, residing under the 
gateway on the left of the church ; 
give one paul. 

St. Yittore al Corpo. — St. Vittore 
is a building of great antiquity. 
This church was rebuilt in 1542, 
and is full of fine fresco paintings and 
altar pieces by Procaccini, Daniel 
Crespi, Nuvolone, Scaramuccia, 
Figino, Salmeggia, Cav. del Cairo, 
<fec. The high altar of the patron 
saint is entirely of marble, and its 
reliquary enriched with gold and 
lapis lazuli. The group representing 
the 'Assumption of the Virgin,' with 
some prophets and angels, is sculp- 
tured by Visraara. The wood car- 
vings are particularly fine. 

St. Ambrogio. — This church (by 



AUSTRIA. — ROUTE 97. MILAN. CHURCHES. 



505 



the learned supposed to be that into 
which St Ambrose refused to ad- 
mit the guilty Emperor Theodosius) 
is preceded by a cloister or a quad- 
rangle of thick columns, with curi- 
ously wrought capitals of stone, 
whence spring ranges of brick 
arcades. There are some frescoes 
of the twelfth century still remain- 
ing on the walls, and a great many 
very ancient sepulchral effigies of 
bishops and abbots. The inside of 
the temple might be properly com- 
pared to a museum ; so great is 
the number of inscriptions, basso- 
relievos, monuments, and other 
objects, which date their origin 
from the remotest centuries of 
Christianity. This church is said 
to have been erected on the ruins 
of a temple of Minerva ; though 
some antiquarians assert that here 
formerly rose a temple to Bacchus. 
Among the existing evidences that 
countenance these assertions of its 
antiquity is a Corinthian pillar, 
evidently Roman, which stands 
near the western portal. A column 
of Egyptian granite (not porphyry, 
as stated in Murray's Hand-Book), 
surmounted by a bronze serpent ; a 
pulpit supported by a very ancient 
and elaborate relief in marble; four 
porphyry columns said to have 
belonged to a temple of Jupiter; a 
mensa studded with rubies, eme- 
ralds, pearls, and other precious 
stones ; and sculptural works of no 
ordinary merit, will, no doubt, en- 
gage the attention of every en- 
lightened visitor; to see it requires 
the payment of 5 frs. In this 
tjmple we are shown, besides many 
remarkable mosaics, the marble 
chair of the venerable archbishop, 
whose body is interred under the 
altar. The oldest part of the 
building is contemporaneous with 
the age of Charlemagne, but it is 
not at all resembling the style of 
the Aix la Chapelle cathedral, as 
some have observed. Chapel after 
chapel is filled with paintings. 
That one dedicated to Santa Mar- 



cellina, sister of St Ambrose, con- 
tains an altar piece, surmounted by 
a beautiful figure in marble of this 
virgin, recently executed by Pa- 
cetti. Several paintings by Ferrari, 
Borgognone, Lanzani, Tiepolo 
Lanino, del Cairo, Bianchi, Panfilo, 
&c., should not pass unobserved. 

The gates of cypress wood of the 
western entrance are said to be of 
the time of St Ambrose. This 
church is also famous for some 
councils that have been held here, 
and for the coronation of several 
kings and emperors. 

Santa Maria, vear St Celso. — 
This church, one of the most re- 
markable in Milan, presents a 
marble front after the magnificent 
design of Galeazzo Alessi, illus- 
trated by the superb statuary of 
Eontana and Lorenzi. The plan 
of the whole edifice, however, was 
given by Bramante. The figures 
of Adam and Eve (by Lorinzi) are 
deservedly reckoned two master- 
pieces of sculpture. The architec- 
ture of the inside is that of an 
earlier age. This building con- 
tains some beautiful pictures by J. 
C. Procaccini, Campi, G. Ferrario, 
Bordone, Calisto Piazza; Buonvi- 
cino, Panfilo, Stohrer, Cerano, Carlo 
Urbino, and several others. The 
high altar, ornamented with gilt 
bronze and studded with precious 
stones, is also decorated with sculp- 
tural works by Eontana and J. C. 
Procaccini. .1 

St Nazaro. — This church, the 
origin of which may be traced 
back to the time of St Ambrose, 
has undergone many reparations 
at difierent periods, and its interior 
has been of late considerably em- 
bellished. The objects worthy 
the attention of the traveller ar© 
the fresco paintings by Sala, a 
young artist of great merit and 
greater expectations, whose death 
was greatly regretted by his admir- 
ers and friends. A square vestibule 
forms, as it were, the threshold to 
this temple, and contains several 



506 



NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 97. MILAN. PALACES. 



tom'te, among which tliat of Gian 
Giacomo Trivulzio deserves to be 
particularly noticed. This wrest- 
less warrior, who illustrated his life 
wath many a brilliant deed in the 
fifteenth century, chose, while still 
living, this sarcophagus for him- 
self, on which the following singu- 
lar epitaph is engraved: "Jo. Jaco- 
bus Magnus Trivultius, Antonii 
filius, qui nondum quievit, quiescit. 
Tace !" — " J. James Trivultius,who 
never was at rest, now takes his 
rest. Hush ! " What words can 
convey a greater idea of the hero 
here buried ? Does not this con- 
cise epitaph remind the learned 
tourist of another not less laconic, 
that may be read on the monu- 
mental stone of Christopher Wren, 
in St Paul's ? 

In the adjoining little church of 
Santa Cater in a are pictures and 
frescoes of no ordinary merit. 

St Antonio. — This church, situa- 
tied in the street of the same name, 
.boasts of valuable paintings and 
frescoes. 

St Alessandro in Zebedia is a mag- 
nificent temple, built in 1602, after 
the design of P. Lorenzo Binaghi, 
a Barnabita. The inside of this 
sanctuary has the form of a Latin 
cross, and the dome, rising with 
majestic grandeur in the centre, is 
deservedly reputed a bold master- 
piece of architecture. The high 
altar and pulpit, both studded with 
precious stones — a monument 
erected to Frisi, the celebrated 
mathematician, and some paintings 
by Procaccini, Fiammenghino, Dan. 
Crespi, Campi, and other eminent 
artists, are objects which deserve 
attention. 

Colonne di St Lorenzo. — Con- 
sidering the great antiquity of 
Milan, we should naturally expect 
to find in it numerous vestiges of 
Roman grandeur : but only a few 
monuments of a date anterior to 
the invasion of the Goths now re- 
main. Among thes'^, the most 
considerable and interesting are the 



Colonne di St Lorenzo, which con- 
sists of a row of sixteen lofty fluted 
columns with Corinthian capitals 
and an entablature. They serve as 
a kind of portico to a quadrangle 
which opens before the church of 
St Lorenzo. The interior of this 
entrance court exhibits fragments 
of the cornice of a Roman temple. 

RoyalPalaces. — Palazzo deUa Corie. 
— This ancient residence of the 
dukes of Milan is an extensive place, 
rebuilt after the design of Pierma- 
rini. The interior is magnificent. 
The numberless apartments of this 
stately building display the most 
exquisite taste and princely mag- 
nificence in their furniture and de- 
corations. Several of these apart- 
ments are embellished by the clas- 
sical and accurate pencil of Andrea 
Appiani, a Milanese artist of un- 
rivalled talents, who has loaded 
the ceilings, in a very superior 
style both of design and colouring, 
with various popular subjects from 
Roman history. Other apartments 
have floors of inlaid wood of dif- 
ferent kinds, particularly worth 
notice. A sumptuous hall of very 
large dimensions will strike the ob- 
server with wonder. It is of Co- 
rinthian order, and decorated with 
statues and cariatides finely model- 
led in terra cotta. Among the 
many objects of the fine arts 
lavished on every part of this regal 
abode, the tourist will gaze with 
astonishment on the boldness dis- 
played in the execution of the 'Apo- 
theosis of Napoleon,' by Appiani. 
This painting represents that over- 
thrown conqueror habited in the 
imperial purple, and standing in a 
car drawn by horses of ethereal 
mould. So unspeakably wonderful 
are also the other prodigies of his 
pencil, that they must be witnessed 
to be duly admired. Appiani may 
properly be called the genius of 
the place. Admission to view is 
readily granted by application to 
the Serjeant on guard. 

Within the palace is a very 



AUSTRIA. — ROUTE 97. . MTI.AN. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 



507 



ancient little church, dedicated to 
St Gothard, and serves as a court 
chapel. It has lately been consider- 
ably embellished. Close by the 
church rises a tower, buUt in 1336, 
and considered a handsome monu- 
ment of the architectural taste of 
those times. At the top is seen the 
gigantic statue in copper of an 
angel, turning on its pivot like a 
weathercock. 

Palazzo dell Arcivescov ado. — This 
palace, containing two courts sur- 
rounded by porticoes, has been re- 
built at different periods. Its front 
was achieved by Piermarini Here 
may be seen a gallery rich in paint- 
ings of the Lombard Venetian, and 
Bolognese schools. A covered arch- 
way connects this building with 
the cathedral. 

Public Buildings. — Giunta del Cert- 
simento (Piazza di St Fedeie). — The 
site of an ancient college of Jesuits 
is now used as offices for the giunta 
del cen simento (the register of all 
the landed estates of the country), 
as well as for the arcliives of the 
government. 

Palazzo Marino. — This vast pile 
formerly belonged to Thomas Ma- 
rino, who caused it to be built ia 
1555, after the design of Alessi. 
Afterwards, the exchequer got 
possession of it, and the spacious 
apartments are now occupied by the 
offices of the treasury. The ground 
floor is used for the custom house. 

Palazzo delia Contabilita. — This 
palace presents, in its interior, all 
the magnificence that ancient and 
modern architecture can produce, 
and reflects much honour on Eabio 
Mangone, who conceived its plan. 
The two vast courts surrounded by 
finely arched porticoes and beauti- 
ful columns, together with the three 
large vestibules that separate the 
different bodies of the edifice, give 
it that air of grandeur which char- 
acterizes the majestic structures 
of ancient Greece, This college 
being suppressed by Joseph II, the 



palace was successively occupied 
hy the ministry of war, the senate, 
and, lastly, by the accompt offices. 

Direzione Generale delle Costi'u- 
zioni Pubbliche e Stamperia Reale. — 
This edifice contains two courts, 
which are ornamented with porti- 
coes, supported by columns on all 
sides, and with galleries above. Its 
front is of recent construction, and 
the apartments are now fitted up 
for the offices of the direction of 
public buildings. 

Casa di Correzione e di Forza 
(Strada St Angela). — This spacious 
building is calculated to contain a 
considerable number of criminals 
of both sexes. The prisoners are put 
to work at different sorts of manu- 
factures. 

Palazzo di Giustizia. — The simple 
and massive aspect of this struc- 
ture evidently indicates its desti- 
nation — a prison. 

Direzione Generale della Polizia. — 
This palace, raised on the very same 
spot whereon the convent of Santa 
Margherita formerly stood, em- 
braces a considerable extent of 
ground, and contains the police 
offices, the prisons, and several 
other places of confinement. 

Private Galleries of Paintings. — 
Uboldo, maison Uboido, Rue Pan- 
tano, 4,690 ; Brocca, maison Brocca, 
Corse Francesco, 603; Castelbarco, 
maison Castelbarco, Rue Prera, 
1,556; Litta,palaisLitta, Corso Por- 
ta Vercelhna, 2,612. To see these 
galleries it will be necessary to apply 
for permission to the proprietors. 

Palazzo di Brera. — This im- 
mense building, formerly a college 
belonging to the Jesuits, is one of 
the most renowned and remark- 
able edifices of Milan. Its exterior 
architecture exhibits a specimen of 
very simple but solid construction. 
The quadrangle of the court looks 
remarkably grand, owing to the 
spacious double tier of arcades, 
Doric supporting Ionic columns, 
with which it is surrounded. The 



508 



NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 97- MILAN. LIBRARIES. 



porticoes are adorned with monu- 
ments erected to Parini, Piermarini, 
Arbertolli, Bossi, Pedroui, Monti, 
&c This magnificent structure 
is now appropriated to the use of 
the academy of arts and sciences ; 
and the traveller should visit the 
Pinacoteca, or exhibition rooms, 
the public library, the medal 
room, the observatory, &c. The 
academy of fine arts is composed 
of the most distinguished artists 
and amateurs. In the exhibition 
rooms are an elaborate and florid 
copy, size of the original, from the 
Cena di Leonado da Vinci, by Bossi, 
a painter of high reputation, lately 
deceased ; casts from some of the 
Elgin marbles, now in the British 
museum ; Appiani's monument, by 
Thorwaldsen ; and marble statues 
and busts, by eminent artists. 
Among the paintings are some 
curious frescoes by Bernardino 
Luino, Marco d'Oggiono, and G. 
Ferrari, collected during the French 
regime from the suppressed monas- 
teries. We are going to mention 
some of those master-pieces, which 
will fix the attention of the be- 
holder, such as Domenichino's 
painting of the ' Virgin, Jesus, and 
John;' Albano's 'Virgin, Infant, 
and St Joseph;' Caravaggio's 'St 
Sebastian;' Daniel Crespi's 'Christ 
bearing his Cross ;' Caracci's ' Noli 
me tangere.' 

Pictures of great attraction are 
also the ' Marriage in Canaan.' by 
Paul Veronese ; his ' Magdalen 
washing the feet of Christ ;' Tin- 
toretto's ' St Hubert ;' the ' Magi,' 
by Palma il Vecchio ; some speaking 
heads by Titian, and his admirable 
' St Jerome ;' the ' Virgin standing 
on a Serpent and Crescent,' by the 
florid Sasso Ferrato ; a beautiful 
little picture of birds by Brueghel, 
and a landscape by the same ; 
' Paul the Hermit,' by Salvator 
Rosa ; the ' Purgatory,' by the 
same extraordinary genius. But 
the paintings that truly constitute 



the valuable treasures of this gal- 
lery are — ' St Peter and St Paul,' 
by Guido Reni ; the '■ Marriage of 
St Joseph and the Virgin,' by 
Raphael ; the ' Dancing Loves,' by 
Albano, and the ' Ripudio d'Agar' 
(Abraham sending away Hagar), 
by Guercino da Cento. 

The public library owes its splen- 
dour to the munificence of Maria 
Theresa, a perfect model as a queen, 
and to the generosity of her worthy 
successors. It ranks among the rich- 
est libraries in Europe, not merely 
for the great number of precious ma- 
nuscripts here contained, but also 
for the choice collection of classical 
works of all kinds. The medal 
room, originally founded by the 
Italian government, comprehends 
all the branches connected with 
ancient and modern numismatics. 
The observatory, erected in 1768 by 
the Jesuits, after the plan of the 
celebrated Boscovich. is richly pro- 
vided with precious instruments 
brought from England, France, 
and Germany, at a considerable ex- 
pense, and plentifully supplied with 
the best astronomical works. The 
botanical garden is rich in plants, 
both indigenous and exotic, classed 
after the Linnsean system. 

JBiblioteca Ambrosiana. — This li- 
brary, founded by Frederic Borro- 
meo, whose portrait is preserved in 
the reading room, is one of tlie most 
celebrated throughout Italy. Fabio 
Mangoue gave the plan of the edi- 
fice. Here are shown the Rufinus 
version of Josephus, written in the 
fourth century on papyrus; a frag- 
ment of a manuscript of the third 
century, consisting of two leaves of 
the Iliad, illuminated ; a MS. of the 
seventh century, beautifully enrich- 
ed with figures; Phuy's 'Natural 
History,' curiously illustrated with 
numerous paintings on vellum; a 
manuscript of the thirteenth cen- 
tury ; an illuminated version of the 
Bucolics and ^neid of Virgil, with 
notes by Petrarch; and some pre- 



AUSTBIA.^ROUTE 97. MILAN. TOWN HALL. 



5(59 



cious volumes of Leonardo Da Vin- 
ci's works. Almost every one of 
these precious relics had been car- 
ried to Paris, and were restored 
only at the peace of 1815. 

In the medal room is a large 
fresco j)ainting of B. Luino, exe- 
cuted with great ability and in 
excellent preservation. That part 
of the numismatic collection which 
is permitted to be seen, is chiefly 
of the modern series. 

Adjoining the library are the 
rooms that once served for the aca- 
demy of painting and sculpture. In 
the first room are deposited the re- 
mains of Gaston de Foix's superb 
monument. Here is shown a large 
folio volume of drawings of engines 
ahd machines, civil and military, 
most of them certified to be by the 
hand of Leonardo da Vinci : they 
are accompanied with copious notes 
and observations vouched for as his 
own, and ofier a proof as interesting 
as it is conclusive of that great 
man's versatility of talent and won- 
derful extent of attainments. There 
are, besides, some pieces of ancient 
sculpture. Various casts in plas- 
ter, a statue of the Virgin executed 
in Carrara marble, and several de- 
signs of Pellegrini, are well w^orth 
examination. In the picture room 
are, Raphael's cartoon of the ' School 
of Athens, ■,' several portraits by Da 
Vinci ; a ' Christ on the Cross,' by 
Guido; ' Our Saviour washing the 
feet of his Disciples,' by Del Vaga, 
one of the ablest scholars of Ra- 
phael, and so much in his finest 
manner that it is no wonder the 
picture has usually gone under the 
name of that illustrious painter ; a 
' Repose in Egypt,' considered to be 
the master-piece of Bassano ; a por- 
trait, by Andrea del Sarto, and 
another by Titian, both full of ex- 
pression, and models of colouring. 
Of Titian's, there is a fine picture 
6f the ' Magi adorning the new-born 
Messiah,' and a second of 'Christ 
in ^ the Tomb.' The stranger will 



stop to consider a gilded painting 
by Borgognone, very curious and 
clever in its Gothic style ; the 
drawings and sketches by the great 
Michael Angelo ; a 'St Hubert,^ by 
Albert Durer ; and the extraordi- 
nary performances of John Brue- 
ghel, viz., the 'Element of Water, 
and the ' Element of Eire. ' The 
former of these paintings is superior 
to the latter, and it is astonishing 
to see how the artist has grouped 
together fish, amphibious reptiles, 
and aquatic fowl, in the most accu- 
rate manner of delineation, with 
the greatest brilliancy of colouring, 
the most exquisite touch, and the 
highest finish. All these, and many 
works in sculpture by some modern 
artists (among which is a bust re- 
presenting the painter Bossi by the 
chisel of Canova), are the most 
precious objects which constitute 
the highest merit of this choice 
collection The pictures and bronze 
works, with which M. Pecis has 
presented this library, are remark- 
able objects ; open daily, ten till four. 
Broleito or Town hall (Contrada 
del Broletto). — This large building 
has nothing to boast of in point of 
architecture ; but in the long suite 
of apartments adorning the mside, 
one should take notice of some vast 
and lofty halls decorated with 
paintings by Salmeggia, Cerano, 
and the brothers ProcaccinL This 
edifice, the residence in former times 
of Philip Mary Visconti, Duke of 
Milan, afterwards devolved to Count 
Garmagnola ; but at the tragical 
death of this general it was confis- 
cated, and afterwards given up to the 
city (1605) by Philip III, King of 
Spain. It now contains the mayor's 
offices ( gli officj del podesta), as well 
as those of the delegazione provin- 
ciale,congregazione,municipale,aud 
commissione degli ornati. To this 
commission the city of Milan owes 
the wonderful improvements that 
every day take place with incon^ 
eel vable rapidity. 

£ 2 



510 NORTHERN ITALY. KOUTE 97. MILAN. ARCO BELLA PACE. 



Great Hospital. — -This institution 
was founded by Francis Sforza IV, 
Puke of Milan, and by his lady, 
Bianca Maria Viseonti. The gifts 
and largesses of the Milanese have 
materially contributed towards the 
enlarging of this establishment. 
The foundation was laid in the 
year 1456. The friezes, mouldings, 
and cornices, but chiefly the ara- 
besques and allegorical groups over 
the doors and windows of the fa- 
9ade, should be noted ; they are 
charged with devices of an airiness 
more suitable to adorn a princely 
mansion than a pious institution 
like the hospital On entering the 
immense court of this extraordinary 
edifice, the stranger must feel a 
sudden surprise at the vast extent 
of the building. The loftiness and 
solid construction of its walls, its 
magnificent quadrangle of two sto- 
ries, the masterly-achieved span of 
its galleries, or dormitories, pro- 
claim it to be among the most stu- 
pendous works of the kind. The 
church is directly opposite to 
the great entrance, in which there 
is a beautiful picture by Guercino. 
The legacies which are continually 
bequeathed by the wealthy citizens 
to this pious institution have made 
it one of the richest in Europe. 

Arco della Pace. — The greatest 
ornament of the approach to Milan 
is this triumphal arch (now called 
Arco della Pace), forming a termi- 
nation to the avenue of the Simplon 
on one side, and as a decoration to 
the Piazza d'Armi on the other. 
It is on beholding this superb struc- 
ture the observer is really forced to 
confess the presence of genius, such 
as would do honour to any age and 
nation. In the manifestation of 
fertile fancy, in the refinements of 
ornamental style, and in the excel- 
lency of architectural and sculp- 
tural workmanship, this monument 
stands unparalleled among all mo- 
dern structures. Gigantic columns, 
hewn out of a single block of mar- 



ble, and designed to support the 
two fa9ades of this arch, are objects 
that impress our mind with asto- 
nishment. The architecture of this 
stupendous edifice is characterized 
both for its elegance and grandeur. 
On one hand, the fairy tracery and 
cobweb work of the capitals and 
vaulted arches bespeak a delicate 
and graceful taste, while on the 
other, the enormous size and ma- 
jestic dimensions of the massive 
pile combine the sublime and beau- 
tiful in this splendid structure. 

The high reliefs that are lavish- 
ed with profusion over this won- 
drous fabric attest the power of 
Italian genius, and reflect much 
honour on Pompeo Marchesi, Pa- 
cetti, Monti di Kavenna, Pizzi, and 
Aquisti. The upper part of the 
edifice is surmounted by a colossal 
group in bronze representing a tri- 
umphal car drawn by six horses, 
besides four equestrian statues, all 
modelled by Sangiorgio, and cast in 
bronze by Manfredini. The gigan- 
tic river gods in marble add very 
much to the beauty of this magni- 
ficent monument. 

On the north-west side of the 
city, where the ancient citadel or 
ducal fortress formerly stood, and 
where two of its high massive 
towers of stone and some of its in- 
terior walls are yet preserved, there 
is now an extensive caserne (bar- 
racks), round which the ground has 
been cleared to a vast extent. 

On the south-east side is the 
forum. On the north-west is the 
Piazza d'Armi, spacious enough for 
40,000 men to manoeuvre in, and 
having at its extremity the trium- 
phal arch, whence commences the 
admirable road of the Simplon. 
This grand enclosure is lined and 
intersected with avenues of trees ; 
and on the northern side the Italian 
government caused the magnificent 
amphitheatre, called the Arena, to 
be built after the designs of Canonica. 
It is a mixture of the circus and 



Atrs'Tiiii.-— sotJTE 97. Milan, theatres. 



511 



arena of the Eoraans, iia\dng a pul- 
vinar (or pavilion for the emperor) ; 
the sedilia in eight rows ; the comi- 
toria (or entrances to the seats) ; 
the popularia (or gallery for the 
people behind) ; the podium, that 
with the Eomans was the place 
where ranged the seats for the 
vestal virgins, senators, and magis- 
trates entitled to curule chairs. It 
really is a noble and interesting 
structure ; the shape is an oval, 
computed to be 750 Paris feet long 
by 375 vdde. The foundations of 
the arena are so constructed as to 
render it capable of being filled with 
water for a naumachia or aquatic 
fete. All enlightened travellers 
will be ready to declare that this 
recent work rivals in magnitude, 
and equals in elegance, the Eoman 
models after which it is designed. 

The writer witnessed a grand 
nautical fete which took place here 
on Sunday, the 15th of September, 
1844, when the interior was filled 
with water up to the stone parapet 
which surrounds the area ; on this 
floated immense barges, boats, &c. 
The amusements consisted in boat 
racing, diving, fireworks, &c. ; 
32,500 persons were admitted on 
that occasion. 

II Lazzaretto (Porta Orientale). — 
This vast edifice, built in the form 
of a large square, with porticoes 
along the four sides, was com- 
menced by Lewis Sforza, surnamed 
il Moro, in 1489, and brought to 
completion by Lewis XJI, Bang of 
France, in 1507. This building was 
originally intended for the reception 
of the unfortunate persons attacked 
by the plague in 1461, and again in 
1576 and 1630 ; it has preserved its 
denomination up to the present 
time. 

Theatres. — /. R. Teatro alia Scala. 
— This celebrated theatre is so i 
called from its having been raised j 
on the very same spot formerly 1 
occupied by the ancient church of | 
Santa Maria della Scala. It is the , 



largest opera house in Italy. The 
fagade of this magnificent structure 
represents a kind of porch, composed 
of three arches, with a vast terrace 
above. The upper part is adorned 
with columns of composite order, 
supporting an atti(^, with pediment, 
in the midst of which is a much- 
esteemed bas-rehef representing 
Apollo in his car, and the goddess 
of night apparently detaining him. 
The interior contains six roAvs of 
boxes, from thirty-six to thirty- 
nine in each row, and aU of them 
richly adorned ; its pit is capable 
of accommodating 2,000 persons. 
The emperor's box has the appear- 
ance of a magnificent saloon, and 
occupies the centre of the house to 
the height of two tiers of the other 
boxes. The dresses are peculiarly 
splendid. 

The following are the dimensions 
of La Scala in Paris feet : — 

Length Breadth. 
Pit - - - 64 4 57 4 
Stage - - 120 10 95 9 
Entire building - 265 3 100 5 

I, JR. Teatro alia Canobbiana 
(Confrada Larga). — This theatre, 
although inferior in size and splen- 
dour to that of La Scala, is, not- 
withstanding, a large and commo- 
dious building. The front displays 
great regularity of style ; and the 
inside, with its five tiers of boxes, 
appears to great advantage. By 
means of two arches thrown over 
the side street, a communication 
is contrived between the rice 
regal palace and the royal boxes. 

Teatro Be ( Conlrada di St Saha- 
tore). — This smaU theatre, which 
derives its nam& from that of the 
proprietor, is very much frequented 
on account of its central situation. 
As a playhouse, it possesses aU the 
advantages required for the good 
performance of a comedy, and can 
contain more than 1,000 spectators. 
The charge for admission is usually 
three Austrian Uvres, commonly 
called zwanzigers, for the Scala, 



512 



NORTHEKN ITALY. -KOUTE 9 7. MILA>^ SrORTIl'G. 



and two for the others. For this 
sum you may go into the pit, or 
peep through the holes in the box 
doors — to get a place or places in 
a box you must pay in addition 
from 10 to SOfrs. for the evening, 
every box being private property-— 
some hired for the season on spe- 
culation, others taken as a lounge 
and let on those nights there is 
not sufficient attraction to induce 
the owner to visit the theatre. 
This system will be found pretty 
general throughout Italy. 

The performances conmience at 
eight o'clock. 

Provisions and Delicacies. — Milan 
is in Italy the city, "par excellence," 
for all those necessary objects of 
luxury and taste. 

Milan is noted for its delicious 
veal cutlets fried in butter and 
crumbs (bracciuola di vitella pa- 
nata), and for those solid hors- 
d'oeuvre called antipasto, eaten 
before the soup (the Roman ante- 
prandium, and the Scotch whet), 
exposing one to a loss of appetite 
before dinner. We cite also la 
soupe a la tripe (brodo col trippa), 
le riz a la Milanaise (risotto), le riz 
aux choux (riseverze), le riz aux 
feves (ai bagiani), les appetissantes 
boulettes (polpette), le veau a la 
casserole (cassola), les fritures de 
foie de pore (fegatelli), and les gras 
chapons (capponi). Italy is the 
classic ground of mushrooms, ac- 
cording to Dr Roques, who has 
learnedly described them. They 
are remarkable for their variety 
and fiavoiir. The venenose species 
seem to be rarer than elsewhere. 
The bubbola maggiore, light and 
delicate, is esteemed and nicely 
served in the Milanais. 

The pastry is very good, notably 
the pasticetti, made of eggs, sugar 
and marmalade ; the pannettoni, 
also of sugar, eaten principally at 
Christmas. An excellent prepara- 
tion of milk, mascarpone. Cele- 
brated cheese, strachino di Gorgon- 



zola. The chocolates of Milan are 
the best in Italy. 

Restaurateurs. — Isola Bella ; Re- 
becchino ; Cova ; Maestri. Good 
eating houses, called salsamentari, 
at Servi, where, after the theatre, 
one may sup on risotto, cold meats, 
and hot wines. ■?^- '> : " 

Cajes. — Cora ', Mmtim ', Delle 
Colonne, &C; &c. ' '^^ j^ybf^u - ;- ;^ 

Good coffee with: cream, caf§ 
alia pannera. Acqua d'amarina is 
a wholesome and refreshing beve- 
rage during the great heats. Iced 
cafe alia pannera. A kind of 
frothy punch, composed of ' the 
yolks of eggs, Madeira, cinnamon 
and other spices, called zambajon, 
a word left by the Spanish^ is' a 
very agreeable incendiary. ; ; 

/Sporting. — The rich cultivation 
of the environs of Milan, covered 
with mulberry and fruit trees, ren- 
ders coursing impracticable ; and 
as for shooting, it is but little agree- 
able, for there are more amateurs 
than birds. Everybody, on procur- 
ing a permit, which costs 30 Aus- 
trian livres (26 frs. 40 c.) has the 
right of hunting on anybody's 
grounds. The landholder himself 
has no privilege ; even on his own 
property he must give way to the 
sportsman who precedes him. One 
sees but little else than birds of 
passage. The plains of Lombardy 
are unfavourable to the breeding of 
partridges, and they are only met 
with in the mountains surrouiiding 
the lakes Maggiore, Como, and 
others. ■- < ■ 

The season for 4^ails' begins in 
summer about the month of July ; 
that for woodcocks and hares, in 
autumn ; ducks, snipes, and rails, 
may be met with in low, marshy 
grounds, during the winter. Deer, 
stags, hares, pheasants, are 'hunted 
by the viceroy and his court only, 
in the park at Monza, and in the 
valleys of Tesin. '* '■''-' ''^'j • 

Liming and netting fok^ larks, 
thrushes, and other birds of passage, 



AUSTRIA. — ROUTE 97. MILAN, PROMENADES. PASSPORTS. 513 



are the most commou and most suc- 
cessful autumnal sports. 

Promenades. — The principal streets 
leading from the centre of the town 
to the gates are generally wide, par- 
ticularly the eorsi of Porta Romana, 
Porta Nuova, and Porta Orientale. 
The latter proceeds from the central 
square of the town, and, after de- 
scribing a bend as far as the church 
of St. Babila, it leads from thence, 
almost in a straight line, to the ave- 
nue of Loreto, and to the ramparts 
opening on each side of the gate. 
This corso, which assumes at differ- 
ent stages the appellation of Corsia 
del Duomo, Corsia de' Servi, and 
Corso di Porta Orientale, presents 
several striking points of view, and 
exhibits an uninterrupted succession 
of fine houses, handsome palaces, 
and well-planted gardens. It is a 
fine sight to see this magnificent 
street thronged with people, hurrying 
in carriages and on horseback to the I 
grand promenade on the ramparts. 
The display of beauty and fashion, 
the splendour of the equipages, the 
dashing appearance of the equestrians 
render this corso a favourite and very 
agreeable scene of assembly for the 
bon genre of Milan. The corso of 
Porta Romana, an avenue thickly 
planted with trees, more than one 
mile in length without the gate, 
serves, on Sundays, as a promenade 
for those living in that quarter of the 
town. 

The elegant Galleria de Cristoforis, 
huilt under the direction and after 
the plan of Andrea Pizzala, is one 
of the most beautiful ornaments of 
Milan, and reflects much honour on 
that family whose name it bears. 
The elegance and taste of the archi- 
tecture, a double row of shops richly 
embellished and well stocked, render 
it altogether an object of great in- 
terest. A much frequented cafe has 
lately been opened in this Gallery. 

Passports. — xis soon as the tra- 



veller arrives at the gates of the 
town, by post or vetturini, his pass- 
port is taken possession of by the 
ispectore di polizia, who gives a 
printed receipt for it. The traveller 
must not suffer three days to elapse 
without either presenting himself, 
or sending somebody else to the 
Direzione Generale di Polizia, Con- 
trada di Santa Margherita, in order 
to obtain a carta di sieurezza, or di 
residenza, for the time he wishes to 
reside in Milan. When he is deter- 
mined to set off, he must present 
himself once more before the Dire- 
zione di Polizia, where, on producing 
the above-mentioned receipt, his pass- 
port will be delivered to him, after 
having the vis^ for the place where 
it is his intention to go. This vise 
or signature is only valid for four and 
twenty hours before his departure. 
Should the traveller be compelled 
to set off later than he had at £rst 
determined, he must have another 
vise to his passport. Travellers 
wanting post horses are to apply 
to the same office, from whence, in 
compliance with their request, a 
boUettone, expressing their name, 
the number of horses they want, 
and the route they are about to 
take, will be forwarded to the post 
master. 

If going to Venice, or any part of 
the Austrian dominions, the vise of 
the police will be sufficient. Pees : 
police, gratis ; Sardinian, 4 frs. ; 
Swiss, 2 frs. The signature of the 
English consul is not necessary at 
Milan, previous to applying for other 
vises — a clear saving of 3 frs. 10 
cents. 

N.B. Should any occurrence pre- 
vent the traveller leaving Milan 
within twenty-four hours after his 
passport being signed by the police, 
or he should change his route, it 
must be again taken to the office to 
get the date altered. 



514 



NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 97. MILAN. DILIGENCES. 



Consuls in Milan for France, M. 
le Baron de Nois, Rue St. Antonio, 
5,398. 

England, Mr. Campbell, Porta 
Orientale, 651. 

Naples, M. le Chev. Monticelli, 
Porta Orientale, 646. 

Rome, M. le Chev. de Simoni, 
Rue Cervetta, 366. 

Holland, M. Ramperti, Cors. St. 
Marcellino, 1,794. 

Belgium, M. Valerio, Rue St. 
Prospero, 2,364. 

Sardinia, M. le Chev. Gaeti de 
Angeli, Palace Triulzio, Place St. 
Alexandre, 3,965. 

Swiss, M. Reymond, Rue St. 
Paul, 937. 

Bankers. — Ulrich and Co., St. 
Pietro e Lino, 2,391 ; Carli di To- 
maso and Co., St. Jean a la Conca, 
4,127; Balabio Besanaand Co., Rue 
Lauro, 1,804; J. B. Negri, Borgo 
Porta Romana, 4,604 ; J. M. Poggi, 
Rue Filodramatici, 1,809 ; Oneto 
and Reymond, Rue St. Paul, 937 ; 
Uboldi and Brunati, Rue Pantano, 
4,690; H. Mylius and Co., Rue 
Clerici, 1,768. Office hours from 
ten till four daily, except Sunday. 

The Post office is open from eight 
till six for the delivery of letters. 
The mail bags are forwarded every 
day for England, Germany (North- 
ern), France, and Switzerland, at 
eleven o'clock ; arrive at four p.m. 

For Southern Germany, Rome, 
Naples, Florence, <fec., every day at 
three o'clock; arrive about nine in 
the morning. 

Letters must be posted at least 
one hour before the departure of 
the mails. 

Payment is required for letters 
addressed to all coantries except 
the Austrian empire, England, 
France, Piedmont, and Geneva. 

Trains leave Milan for Treviglioli 
three times a day; diligences take 
on to Vicenza, thence by rail in 
twenty- six hours ; fare, 52 zwanzigers 
90 cents — about 46| francs. 



Geneva, by the Simplon, at five in 
the morning ; fares, 68 frs. 

Basel, by St. Gothard, every day, 
at 12, in forty- eight hours : fare, 
48 frs. 

Turin, twice every day; fare, 
22 frs. 25 c. 

Como, every morning at one 
o'clock, in five hours ; fare, 5 zrs. 

Diligences from the Messagerie 
contra del Monte, No. 5,499 :— 

Venice, four times a week ; fare, 
40 zrs. 

Rome, three times a week ; fare, 
115 frs. 

Florence, three times a week; 
fare, 63 frs. 

Ancona, three times a week ; 
fare, 70 frs. 

Naples, three times a week; fare, 
199 frs. 

Geneva, by Turin, three times a 
week ; fare, 86 frs. 

Genoa, every day ; fare, 27 frs. 

Cremona, four times a week; fare, 
11 zrs. 

Brescia, by Bergamo, every day ; 
fare, 10 zrs. 

Pavia, every morning ; fare, 3 zrs. 

Genoa, by malle-poste, every day 
at one, in eighteen hours ; fare 36 
frs. This is a comfortable and ex- 
peditious mode of getting to Genoa. 

Volocifere, from the Corsia del 
Duomo, 980, every day, with inside 
and outside places. 

Como, 4 and 5 zrs.; Pavia, 2 zrs. 
50 c. and 3 zrs. ; Lecco, 2 zrs. and 
3 zrs. ; Vanese, 3 zrs. and 2 zrs. 

Railroad (Strada Ferrata) to 
Monza, seven times a day, every 
two hours after the first, which 
leaves at half-past six ; the second 
at eight, and so on till six in the 
evening, returning three quarters of 
an hour after each departure from 
Milan; time, twenty minutes; fare, 
first class, 1 zrs. 25 c. ; second class, 
1 zr. ; third class, 75 cents. 

Carriages. — At each of the hotels 
will be found handsome private car- 
riages, which may be hired at the 
following rates : — 



AUSTRIA. — ROUTE 97. MONZA. EXCURSIONS. 



515 



frs. 
One day, in Milan or the immedi- 
ate neighbourhood . . . 16 

Half a day 8 

A course 5 

To and from the theatre . . 6 

To Chartreuse .... 24 

Chartreuse and Pavia ... 30 

Monza 20 

Como, stopping at Monza, occupy- 
ing two days .... 40 
To visit the lakes Maggiore and 
Como, three days ... 75 

Hackney Carriages. — There are 
five stands in Milan, namely: Place 
St. SepolcrOj Place St. Dalmazio, 
Place Fontana, Porte Orientale, and 
Bottonuto. The tariff fixed hy the 
police is as under : — 

frs. c. 
For a course, if under an hour 1 60 
The first hour . . ..20 
Eaoh succeeding hour . . 1 50 

Valets de Place. — Respectable in- 
telligent men are always in attend- 
ance at the hotels, who will faith- 
fully serve you and go out with the 
carriage, for from 5 to 6 frs. a day. 

Booksellers. — L. Dumolard and 
Son, Cours de Servi, No. 603 ; Gr. 
Molinari, Corso Francesco, No. 
984; F. Artaria and Son, and 
Messrs. Tendler and Schaefer, Ger- 
man booksellers, 59 and 60 Galleria 
Cristoforis. 

Omnibuses, light and elegant, ply 
in every direction, and run regu- 
larly from the Piazza Duomo to the 
Minza railway in time for every 
train ; fare, half a franc. 

EXCURSIONS FROM MILAN. 

Monza and its Environs. — This 
celebrated town, so famous in the 
annals of the Lombard kings and the 
dukes of Milan, is situated ten miles 
from the capital. Strangers should 
pay a visit to the cathedral and the 
magnificentroyal palace (villa E.eale), 
where the court generally reside 
during the fine season. 

The cathedral, dedicated to St, 



John, is very ancient, and was re- 
built in the fourteenth century, after 
the design of Marco da Carapione. 
Its fapade was reconstructed in the 
seventeenth century. Above the 
middle door is seen an ancient 
bas-relief, representing Teodoliuda, 
Queen of the Lombards, with her 
consort : another ancient bas-relief 
is preserved in the interior of the 
sanctuary. The paintings on the 
vault are by Isidoro Bianchi ; and 
those of the high altar by Montalto 
and J. C.Procaccini. The beautiful 
picture representing the ' Visitation,' 
is by Guercino da Cento; and the 
' St. Gerardo,' painted in fresco on 
one of the columns, was executed by 
B. Luino. In the sacristy are pre- 
served several curiosities that were 
given to this basilic by Queen Teo- 
doliuda and other crowned heads. 

In one of the chapels is shown 
the celebrated iron crown that was 
placed on the heads of the ancient 
kings of Italy. This crown was 
also used at the coronation of Charles 
v., at Bologna ; and more recently 
at that of Napoleon, who created 
the knightly order under the appella- 
tion of the Iron Crown (Corona di 
Ferro).* In a passage contiguous 
to the church, they show the mummy 
of Ettore Visconti, an intrepid war- 
rior, who died in I4I3 in consequence 
of a wound. 

A superb avenue conducts from 
Monza to the royal palace, a mag- 
nificent edifice erected by the Arch- 
duke Ferdinand of Austria. The 
interior is scarcely entitled to notice. 
To these are joined the habitations 



* This iron crown is so called because 
its inside is lined with some of that metal, 
said to be composed of the nails with 
which our Saviour was fastened to the 
cross. The outside of this diadem is 
gold, studded with precious stones. To 
see it, application must be made to the 
government in Milan, or to the archprete, 
at Monza. A religious ceremony takes 
place previous to its being exhibited. 



516 



NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 97. CERTOSA DI PAVIA. 



necessary for the suite of the court, 
a small theatre, and a neat chapel. 
The gardens are spacious, and laid 
out with the most exquisite taste. 
The hot-houses contain the richest 
variety of flowers and plants. From 
a belvedere in the garden an exten- 
sive view is obtained. 

The magnificent park, encircled 
by a wall, is three leagues in cir- 
cumference, and admirably distri- 
buted. There may be seen avenues, 
rural dwellings, hills, and forests, 
the whole embellished by elegantly 
varied houses, temples, pavilions, 
and enlivened by stags, pheasants, 
and other species of game. Mani- 
fold are the features of this great 
sylvan domain. Its broad and 
branching alleys form a sheltered 
and delicious ride for several iniles. 

At a short distance without the 
park are the villages of Vedano 
and Biassonno, each of which is 
ornamented with handsome villas ; 
but the spot in these environs that, 
above all, deserves to be visited, is 
Gernietto, where, upon an eminence, 
rises the magnificent villa of Count 
Mellerio. 

The view that can be commanded 
from the turret of the chateau is on 
a very extensive scale. Hills almost 
innumerable, of all varieties of form, 
rise towards the north, intersecting 
each other. 

Certoso di Pavia. — Distance, two 
Italian postes. The magnificent 
Certosa, near Pavia, should be 
visited. The road from Milan to 
Pavia borders the canal, which, 
from the capital, takes the same 
direction, and afterwards falls into 
the river Ticino, a little below the 
above-mentioned town. At the 
borough of Binasco, situated at the 
distance of ten miles from Milan, 
may be seen an ancient castle, built 
of bricks, which now serves as a 
military station. This once formid- 
able castle calls to mind the tragical 
death of the unfortunate Beatrice 



di Tenda (the wife of Philip Mary 
Visconti), who, being confined in 
such a stronghold, and put to the 
torture, was forced, from the inten- 
sity of her pangs, to confess herself 
guilty of those crimes of which her 
cruel husband had accused her. 
This poor victim ascended the scaf- 
fold together with her presumed ac- 
complice, Orombello, on the night of 
the 13th of September, 1418. 

Continuing the same route for 
other five miles, the traveller arrives at 
a group of houses and an inn called 
the Torre del Mangano, where quit- 
ting the main road that conducts to 
Pavia, he should turn to the left by 
an avenue bordered with trees, at 
the extremity of which majestically 
rises the beautiful Certosa of Pavia. 

This edifice owes its origin to 
the prejudices of those times of 
ignorance and barbarism, when 
many powerful nobles, believing 
they might atone for their crimes 
by the foundation of sanctuaries, 
lavished immense sums in the erec- 
tion of these wonderful piles. Thus 
Giovanni Galeazzo Visconti, after 
having imprisoned in the castle of 
Trezzo, Barnabo, his uncle and 
father-in-law, who perished there, 
thought of raising, besides the 
cathedral of Milan, another monu- 
ment of piety, which, by its magni- 
ficence, should surpass all the most 
sumptuous domes of the kind. The 
edifice of the Certosa was com- 
menced in 1396, and, three years 
after, the Certosini monks were oc- 
cupying the convent joined to the 
church. The duke had assigned 
them a considerable estate; and 
their revenues were soon after so 
rapidly increased by new donations 
and their own industry in agricul- 
tural economy, that, in a short time, 
this Certosa was reckoned the most 
magnificent in Europe. The church 
is still one of the most costly tem- 
ples in Italy. 

The entrance to the enclosure of 



AUSTRIA. — ^BOTTTE 97. CERTOSA DI PAVIA. CHAPELS. 



517 



the Certosa is through a vaulted 
gateway, ornamented on each side 
with angels on pedestals, one hold- 
ing the armorial bearings of the 
founder ; the other, those of the 
Certosini. Having passed this ves- 
tibule, we find ourselves before the 
church, preceded by a vast court. 
The court is flanked on the right 
by a large building, which con- 
taias the apartments of the prior 
of the Certosini, and those that 
were reserved for distinguished 
strangers. The design of this vene- 
rable pUe, whose exterior prepares 
the mind for its solemn contempla- 
tion, was attributed to Henry Arler, 
called Gamodia or Gamodio, a Ger- 
man architect, the same that is be- 
lieved to be the author of the ori- 
ginal plan of the Milan cathedral. 
The Marquis Malaspina, however, 
by his learned dissertation on this 
famous Certosa, has evidently 
proved the diflference of style to be 
so remarkably striking, that we 
must ascribe the plan of this tower- 
ing temple to Marco da Campione, 
a celebrated architect of those times. 
This temple, surmounted by a cupola 
ascending to an amazing height, 
creates less surprise by its great 
mass than by the beautiful propor- 
tions, order, and elegance that reign 
throughout. The smnptuousness 
of the holy edifice astonishes the 
mind, and the eye gazes with won- 
der at the loftiness of the pile. 

The facade is richly decorated, 
and possesses forty-four statues, 
sixty medalhons, and a great num- 
ber of historical bas-reliefs. Its 
sculptures, executed with great finish 
and exquisite taste, reflect much 
honour on the chisels of Giovanni 
Antonio Oniodeo, Marco d'Agrate, 
Angelo Maria Siciliano, Andrea 
Fusina, Cristoforo Solari, Agostino 
Busti, and other celebrated artists 
of those times, of whom the greater 
part have equally enriched, by their 
works, the cathedral of Milan. 

The interior of this temple is not 



less surprising and majestic ; and 
the eye is astonished by the pomp 
of architecture and the elaborate 
beauty of sculptured detail. The 
very walls are wrought into uni- 
versal ornament ; and the stone 
seems, by the cunning labour of the 
chisel, to have been robbed of its 
weight and density. Nothing im- 
presses the mind with a deeper feel- 
ing of loneUness than to tread this 
scene of grandeur, and to survey 
the strange mixture of tombs and 
trophies, emblems of aspiring ambi- 
tion, which are only mementos to 
show the dust and oblivion in which 
all must sooner or later terminate. 

The length of the church is 235 
feet by 165 in breadth. It is bmlt 
in the form of a Latin cross, sur- 
mounted by a magnificent dome, and 
divided into three naves, contain- 
ing fourteen chapels, besides the 
high altar. The vault is covered 
with gold and ultramarine ; the 
chapels are separated from the 
naves by ornamented rails, and 
communicate with each other by 
practicable openings in the side 
walls. The wall, through which is 
the entrance gate, is decorated with 
a fine fresco representing the 'As- 
sumption of the Virgin,' surromided 
by the celestial hierarchies. 

Cappella di Santa Veronica. — This 
chapel is decorated with pictiu-es 
and frescoes representing the ' Ke- 
surrection of Jesus Christ,' and the 
'Marias going to the Tomb,' by 
Andrea Lanzani. The altar is in 
the Eoman style ; and such also in 
general is the style of those which 
follow ; each being ornamented with 
two fine columns of precious vari- 
egated marble, remarkable for their 
dimensions and the beauty of work- 
manship. The fore part of the 
mensa (table) is a kind of mosaic 
representing flowers. This mosaic 
was executed by C. Battista Sacchi, 
the descendants of whom, cultivat- 
ing the same art, continued, during 
three centuries, to adorn tliis church. 



518 



NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 97. CERTOSA DI PAVIA. 



The picture above the altar is by 
Camillo Procaccini, and claims our 
attention by the beauty of the 
heads, which are so much after the 
style of Parmigianino. 

Cappella di St Ugone. — The paint- 
ings of this chapel are arranged in 
three divisions. The first repre- 
sents ' St Anselm ;' the second, ' St 
Hugh with the infant Jesus ;' and the 
third, a ' Group of Angels.' They are 
by Carlo Carlone, a Genoese. The 
bas-reliefs of the altar, exhibit- 
ing the events of the life of St Hugh, 
are by the chisel of J. B. Dema- 
gistris, surnamed Volpino. 

Cappella di St Benedetto. — This 
chapel contains good frescoes by 
Giovanni Ghisolfi, representing the 
events of the life of St Benedict, 
to whom the chapel is dedicated. 
The altar is adorned with mosaics 
by Valerio Sacchi, and a painting 
by Carlo Cornara. 

Cappella del Santo Crocifisso. — The 
paintings on the walls of this fourth 
chapel are attributed to the Cava- 
lier Carlo Bianchi, scholar and 
son-in-law of J. C. Procaccini. The 
tomb of our Eedeemer, sculptured 
in relief on the fore part of the 
mensa, is by Volpino ; and the pic- 
ture over the altar is remarkable 
for the deep sorrow depicted in the 
countenances. The columns are of 
oriental alabaster. 

Cappella di St Sir o. — The paintings 
in this chapel reflect much honour 
on the pencil of Antonio Busca. 
The columns are of a species of 
marble known under the appella- 
tion of nero antico. The mosaics 
were executed by C. B. Sacchi. 

Cappella de' SS. Pietro e Paolo. — 
Montalto, a pupil of Morazzone, 
painted the frescoes of this chapel, 
one of which represents St Paul in 
the act of raising a man from the 
dead ; the other, the martyrdom of 
St Peter. The picture decorating 
the altar, not in a good state of 
preservation, and representing the 
' Virgin between the Apostles St 



Peter and St Paul,' is by Francesco 
Barbieri, generally known under the 
nameof GuercinodaCenta. The fore 
part of the altar is like the others, 
ornamented with a fine mosaic. 

Cappella delV Annunziata. — This 
chapel contains beautiful frescoes 
by Montalto. The bas-relief, repre- 
senting the ' Birth of our Saviour,' 
was executed in 1675, by Dionigi 
Bussola ; and the columns are of 
a kind of marble called marmo di 
Polcevera. The handsome picture 
over the altar is by Camillo Pro- 
caccini. After passing the seventh 
chapel you enter a lateral arm of the 
temple : butj before examining the 
objects therein contained, we should 
step into the new sacristy, so called 
to distinguish it from the other on 
the opposite side. 

Sagrestia Nuova. — This hand- 
some and spacious building contains 
an altar elegantly ornamented. The 
weU-preserved paintings of the 
roof were commenced by Ales- 
sandro Casolani, and finished by 
Pietro Sozzi. The magnificent 
altar is enriched with beautiful 
marbles and inlaid ornaments. The 
sculptures representing the ' Nati- 
vity of the Virgin' are by Giuseppe 
Eosnati. The large painting over 
the altar was commenced by An- 
drea Solari ; but this artist dying 
whUe employed in the work, the 
picture was completed by Bernar- 
dino Campi. Beneath the same 
picture G. B. Gualtieri painted, on 
marble tablets, the 'Nativity of 
Jesus Christ,' and the ' Adoration 
of the Ma,gi.' This painting was 
removed (in the manner conquerors 
remove objects of the fine arts) 
during the invasion of the French 
in 1798 ; and would have been con- 
veyed elsewhere had not a happy 
chance prevented it. But when 
they wanted to replace it, they were 
no longer able to unite all the 
pieces which composed it with the 
same skill and precision ; and this 
has occasioned the seams which are 



AUSTSIA. — ROUTE 97- CERTOSA DI PAVIA. 



519 



now so observable. Many paintings 
of merit formerly ornamented the 
walls of this sacristy, but they were 
too tempting to be allowed to re- 
main. On going out, we should 
take a general view of the small 
neighbouring cloister deUa Fontana ; 
so caUed from its once having pos- 
sessed a foimtain in the middle. 
The door, which here serves as a 
communication with the church, is 
remarkable for the sculptures of the 
celebrated Griovanni Omodeo, and 
the upper arch is decorated in bas- 
rehef. The interior of the cloister 
boasts of beautiful bas-reUefs in terra 
cotta. 

AUare di St Brunone. — On re- 
entering the body of the church, 
we see at the extremity of one of 
the transepts an altar dedicated to 
St Brmione, the founder of this 
order of monks. Before this altar, 
adorned with four marble columns, 
rise two beautiful candelabra in 
bronze. The rehefs representing St 
Brunone at the foot of the cross, as 
well as the angels on each side of 
the altar, are by Tommaso Orso- 
hno, a Genoese. The vault above 
this altar is fresco painted. It 
represents the family of Yisconti 
on their knees, and in the attitude 
of laying before the Virgin the de- 
sign of the Certosa. 

Mausoleo di Giovanni Galeazzo 
ViscontL - A few steps lead from 
the altar just described to the tomb 
of Galeazzo Visconti, the founder 
of the church and convent. This 
gorgeous monument, that teaches no 
moral but the futihty of that pride 
which hopes still to exact homage 
in its ashes, was erected some time 
after the death of the duke. The 
design is ascribed to Galeazzo Pel- 
legrini, who presented it in the jeox 
1490; but the work was not finished 
until 1562. Many sculptors have 
contributed then- labours towards 
the completion of this monument ; 
among the rest we must mention 
Bernardino di Novi, who executed 



the urn, and the two statues repre- 
senting Fame and Victory. This 
grand mausoleum, constructed of 
Carrara marble, stands by itself, 
and defies description. The remains 
of the duke, however, do not fill the 
stately urn ; for when the monu- 
ment was finished, none remembered 
the spot where his body had been 
deposited ! When we look upon 
the tombs of the great, that di-vaded 
the world by their contests and 
disputes, every emotion of envy dies 
in us, and we reflect with sorrow 
and astonishment on the httle com- 
petitions, factions, and debates of 
mankind. 

// Lavatojo de" Monad. — On com- 
ing back from the mausoleum 
towards the centre of the church, 
we see a little door to the right, 
which conducts to a place called 
the Lavatojo de' Monaci. Some 
people maintain that the bust 
placed over the Lavatojo represents 
the architect Henry Arler, surnamed 
Gamodia; others, Marco da Cam- 
pione, of whom we have before 
spoken as the presumed author of 
the design of this Certosa. In the 
upper part of this sort of sacristy 
are three bas-reliefs sculptured by 
Alberto Carrara, and the painted 
windows, that light this place, are 
ascribed to Christopher de Matteis. 
On returning to that part of the 
church where the two lateral arms 
and the body of the edifice cross 
each otlier, and form four arches, 
the visitor finds himself under an 
octagonal dome. The fresco paint- 
ings that embellish this masterly- 
achieved structure were executed 
by Alessandro Casolani. To the 
left, near this place, are seen the 
magnificent rails, which separate 
the chancel of the altar from the 
rest of the church. These rails, 
executed by P. P. Rippa in 1660, 
after the elegant design of Fran- 
cesco Villa, are remarkable for 
their grandeur and their ornaments 
delicately wrought in bronze. 



520 



NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 97. CERTOSA DI PA VIA. 



The stalls of the choir are of 
wood, richly carved with figures: 
and the highly preserved fresco 
paintings, ornamenting the roof 
over the choir and chancel, are by 
Daniel Crespi, who finished them 
in 1563. The balustrade, which 
divides the choir from the sanc- 
tuary, is surmounted by four great 
bronze candelabra and two pyra- 
mids. In the sanctuary are seen 
two pulpits of precious marble, and 
near each of them is a statue. The 
statues of St Peter and St Paul in 
the chancel, placed in niches, as 
weH as those representing Moses, 
Aaron, Elias, Abraham, and Mel- 
chizedeck, are due to the chisel of 
Tommaso Orsolino. The lateral 
partition walls of the high altar are 
covered with bas-reliefs. 

VAltare Maggiore. — The high 
altar, surmounted by a tabernacle 
in the form of a small circular 
temple, is highly entitled to notice. 
Besides being sumptuously deco- 
rated with a rich variety of marbles, 
bronze, and precious stones, such as 
lapis lazuli, agates, and cornelians, 
the whole is set off by beautiful 
sculptures. Many artists have 
contributed to ornament this mag- 
nificent altar. The two angels 
supporting the steps of the altar 
are by the chisel of Volpino. The 
name of the artist who sculptured 
the medallion adorning the forepart 
of the mensa is unknown; but 
many ascribe this work to Andrea 
Solari, the same Vv^ho enriched this 
temple with the productions of his 
chisel towards the middle of the 
sixteenth century. 

La Sagrestia Vecchia. — Now, pro- 
ceeding to the left arm of the cross 
in order to continue the tour of the 
church, we come to a door by which 
we enter the old sacristy. Here 
are seen excellent works in sculp- 
ture; and the little angels, executed 
by Giovanni Antonio Omodeo, are 
really graceful. The portrait of 
Galeazzo Visconti, placed on high, 



is by Alberto da Carrara. Above 
the altar of this sacristy we observe 
a large table, where, by a sculpture 
in bas-relief, executed on the teeth 
of hippopotamus, are represented 
the events of the New Testament. 
The number of little figures, carved 
with a wonderful skill and the 
minutest attention by Bernardo 
degli Ubriachi, a Plorentine, will, 
no doubt, attract the admiration of 
all connoisseurs. 

Altare delle Reliquie. — Near this 
sacristy, we enter the left arm of 
the church, at the end of which is 
raised an altar, called Altare delle 
Reliquie. Before this altar are 
placed two large candelabra in 
bronze of an exquisite design, and 
executed with a superior taste by 
Annibale Fontana. The altar is 
ornamented with four marble 
columns, and beautified in front by 
a handsome table composed of pre- 
cious stones, which are set nearly 
in the style of mosaics. It is said 
that Valerio Sacchi devoted ten 
years to this complicated work. 
Above the altar is the statue of the 
Virgin with two angels, by Orsolino : 
the other two statues, representing 
St Arnold and St Stephen, are 
ascribed to C. B. Sacchi. The 
curtain that covers the rails, behind 
which are kept the holy relics, was 
painted by Daniel Crespi, and re- 
presents ' Jesus Christ in the midst 
of the Elect.' 

Cappella della Vergine del Rosario. 
— The first of these chapels is dedi- 
cated to the Virgin of the Rosary, 
and contains frescoes by Stohrer, 
an esteemed modern painter. The 
altar is decorated by two columns 
of fine marble ; and before the altar 
is a bas relief by Volpino, repre- 
senting the 'Adoration of the Magi.' 
Over the altar the visitor will 
admire paintings by Perone and 
Morazzone. 

Cappella di St Amhiogio. — This 
second chapel is dedicated to St 
Ambrose, the events of whose life 



AtlSTRIA. — ^ROUTE 97. CERTOSA DI PAVIA. 



521 



are represented in frescoes by Carlo 
Cane. Kosnati sculptured the bas- 
relief placed before the altar, and 
described this saint archbishop, on 
horseback, expelling the Arians. 
The two side angels are by the 
same artist. The old picture above 
the altar is attributed to Auibrogio 
Fossano. 

CappeUa di Santa Cater ina di 
Siena, e Santa Calei'ina della JRuota. 
— These two saints are represented 
in two frescoes painted by B. Car- 
lone. The fore-part of the alta? 
is composed of a beautiful mosaic. 
The two statues of the saints, to 
whom this chapel is consecrated, 
are by G. Kosnati. 

CappeUa di St Giuseppe — In this 
fourth chapel, the two frescoes re- 
presenting the 'Angel directing 
Joseph to flee into Egypt,' and the 
' Three Wise Men conversing with 
Herod,' were executed by E. Pro 
caccini, the nephew of another 
renowned painter of the same 
name. The bas-relief exhibiting 
the ' Massacre of the Innocents,' 
and which is one of the finest in 
this church, was sculptured by 
Dionigi Bussola, in 1677. The 
columns are of oriental alabaster. 
The picture of the altar is by P. M. 
Neri, a Cremonese. 

CappeUa di St Giovanni JBattista. — 
The frescoes, as well as the oil 
paintings, adorning this chapel, are 
by Carlone, and represent the events 
of the life of the saint above men- 
tioned. On making, however, a 
comparison between the two kinds 
of paintings, one is forced to con- 
fess that the artist approached 
nearer to perfection in the former. 
The table in mosaics before the altar 
is by Sacchi: the two side angels 
by Volpini. 

CappeUa di St Michek. — The 
frescoes of this chapel, representing 
on one side ' Abraham oflering hos- 
pitality to three Angels,' and on 
the other, the same patriarch send- 
ing away Hagar, are by Nuvolone. 



The bas-reliefs before the altar, 
as well as the side ones representing 
' Jacob's Dream,' the ' Fall of the 
rebellious Angels,' the ' Creation of 
Adam,' and the ' Sacrifice of Abra- 
ham,' were sculptured by Orsolino. 
Above the altar were placed six 
united pictures by Perugino, 
Raphael's master: but three of 
them being taken away in 1797, 
other paintings were substituted, 
which, although not devoid of 
merit, have nothing of the beauty 
of the former. 

CappeUa di Santa Maria Madda- 
lena. — This chapel is consecrated to 
St Mary Magdalen. Two frescoes 
painted by Eederico Bianchi repre • 
sent, on one side, this saint exposed 
to all the fury of a sea storm, and 
on the other, the same saint in the 
midst of the desert. The picture 
representing ' Mary Magdalen at 
at the foot of the Cross,' is by 
Peroni. 

Besides the paintings of the 
chapels already noticed, there are 
many others, more or less remark- 
able, covering the partition walls of 
the naves. 

Let us now leave the church to 
re-enter the spacious court. The 
grand edifice on the right side, 
which served, as we have stated 
before, as the apartments of the 
prior, once contained a collection 
of paintings, a rich library of pre- 
cious manuscripts, and several other 
objects of art, which v/ere removed 
elsewhere on the suppression of 
this order, in 1782. In 1784, the 
same convent was occupied by the 
Cisterciensi,and these were replaced 
in 1798, by the Carmelites. The 
CarmeUtes were suppressed in 1810. 
We cross the edifice above men- 
tioned to enter the enclosure of the 
convent, formed of a grand square, 
measuring 320 feet on each side, 
surrounded by porticoes that are 
supported by marble columns, and 
embellished with ornaments in terra 
cotta. Three sides of the square 



522 



NORTHERN ITAiT. — ROUTE 98-101. 



are symmetrically divided into 
twenty-four small houses, in which 
dwelt the monks. Each of them is 
composed of two chambers on the 
ground floor, with a little garden, 
and an upper room, which affords a 
quiet and comfortable retreat. This 
vast building, though deserted for 
upwards of thirty years, has been 
restored, and is again inhabited by 
the Carmelites. 

ROUTE 98. 

MILAN TO TURIN BY VERCELLI. 

4 Italian and IS^- French postes. 







Postes 


From Milan to St Pierre I'Olmo IJ 


— Magenta 


- 


- o| 


— Novare 


* 


- 2 


— Orfer.go 


- 


- H 


— Vercelli - 


- 




— St Germain 


- 


- ll 


— Ciliano - 


- 


- 2i 


— Chivasso 


- 


- 2| 


— Settimo 


- 




— Turin 


- 


- 2^ 


ROUTE 99. 





MILAN TO TURIN BY ALEXANDRIB. 

5 Italian and 20 French postes. 







Postes 


From Milan to Binasco - 


- li 


— Pavia 


. 


- H 


— Casteggio 


- 


- 2} 


— Voghera 


- 


- H 


— Tortone 


- 


- H 


— Alexandrie 


- 


- 3 


— Fellizzano 


- 


- 21 


— Annone - 


. 


- U 


-^ Asti 


. 


- H 


— Gambetta 


- 


~ Is 


— Dusino - 


- 


- 1* 


— Poirino - 


- 


- H 


— Truffarello 


. 


- H 


— Turin 


- 


- 2 



The above routes are described 
from Turin to Milan. 

ROUTE 100. 

MILAN TO GENOA. 

55 Italian and 14^ French postes. 



From Milan to Binasco 

— Pavia 

— Casteggio 



Postes. 

- 14 

- H 

- H 







Postes 


From Casteggio to Voghera 


H 


— Tortona - 


. 


- H 

- 2| 


— Novi 


. 


— Arquata 


- 


— Ronco 


- 


- 2^ 


— Ponte Decimo 


- 


- H 


— Genoa 


- 


- 2i 



For description of this route, see 
Genoa to Milan. 



ROUTE 101. 

GENOA TO LUCCA BY THE COAST. 

Distance, 23f French postes. 







Postes 


From Genoa to Recco 


- H 


— Rapello - 


- ^ - 


- H 


— Chiavari 


- 


- i| 


— Bracco 


- 


- H 


— Mattarana 


- 


- li 


— Borghetto 


- 


- H 


— Spezzia - 


- 


- 3 


— Sarzana 


- 


- H 


— Lavenza 


- 


- i| 


— Massa 


- 


- 1 


— Pietra Santa 


- 


- 1 


— Montramito 


- 


- 1 


— Lucca 


- 


- H 



The route to be pursued forms 
a line of about forty-six leagues, 
presenting the fairest points of 
view throughout nearly its entire 
course. The egress from Genoa is 
into a country resembling a plea- 
sure garden, rendered still livelier 
by the many-colom-ed country 
houses on neighbouring eminences. 
The torrent of Bisagno being 
passed, 

St Martin d ''Albaro is reached — 
a neat village on a small hill, from 
which is a view of Genoa and its 
environs. Around this village, and 
at each turn of the hill, country 
mansions are scattered up and 
down, where the favourites of 
fortune pass the season. Popula- 
tion, 2,000. 

Nervi is a handsome town in a 
smiling locality ; it is renowned for 
the softness of its climate and the 
exquisite flavour of its fruits. The 
inhabitants, to the number of 3,000, 
are mostly fishermen and silk- 
spinners. The environs of Nervi 



SARDINIA. — ROUTE 101. GENOA TO LUCCA 



523 



also are beautified with country 
houses. 

Linen, thread, oils, and cotton, 
form the staple of the business 
carried on by the 2,000 inhabitants 
of 

Eecco, where there is a dockyard 
for the building and repair of 
coasting vessels. 

Ropallo soon presents itself — a 
small city on the little gulf of the 
same name. It stands in a luxuri- 
ant locality, and possesses a small 
harbour, dependent upon that of 
Chiavari. A very famous sanc- 
tuary, that of La Madonna del 
Montallegro, is in the proximity of 
Rapallo, and is much frequented at 
the commencement of every July. 
There is nothing to require a stop- 
page before 

Chiavari, somewhat famous for 
its laces. In this well built city, 
the population of which is 10,000, 
are several churches, a hospital, an 
agricultural society, and a good 
many silk factories. Here Pope 
Innocent IV first saw the light. 
Beyond Chiavari, the torrent En- 
tella being passed, 

Lavagna is soon approached ; it 
is a village of 2,500 souls, and is 
often mentioned in history. It 
gives its name to the species of 
slate which its environs produce in 
abundance. 

So far the route has skirted the 
sea shore, but after passing 

Sesiri, an episcopal city with 
7,000 inhabitants, and the town of 
Moneglio, 

Bracco is reached, and the road 
incHnes landward, and rises over 
several hills which wind about the 
foot of the lofty mountain of Gottra, 
the boundary of the Genoese terri- 
tory and the duchy of Parma. The 
pretty villages of 

Mattarana a^nd Borghetto are suc- 
ceeded by 

Spezzia, a flourishing city, plant- 
ed at the foot of a gulf, and enjoy- 
ing the safest and largest harbour 



in Italy. A mile down the beach 
a fresh-water spring gushes forth 
with violence, a peculiarity striking 
enough to excite the attention of 
naturalists. Two forts at the 
mouth of the gulf protect the 
entrance. The Genoese Board of 
Health requires all ships from 
suspected countries, or in which 
any contagious disorders have 
manifested themselves, to perform 
quarantine in this bay. The huge 
lazaretto consists cf two structures, 
one serving as a magazine for 
merchandizes, the other for the 
accommodation of the voyagers. 
A number of country houses and 
fruit plantations promote the plea- 
santness of the environs of Spezzia. 
The city commands a prospect not 
only embracing the entire gulf, but 
the whole chain of mountains bor- 
dering the sea, and even Leghorn. 
The active and industrious popula- 
tion, 8,000, carry on a considerable 
trade. 

On the western side of the gulf 
of Spezzia, apart from this route, 
stands the small town of 

Porto Venere, well known in the 
time of the Romans ; it is built on 
an esplanade, and defended by a 
castle. 

Here two roads lead alike to Sar- 
zana ; the traveller who chooses the 
longest, which has one stage more 
than the other, will be enabled to 
visit 

Lerici, a small city of 4,700 inha- 
bitants, with a large deep harbour, 
and a fine castle, occupying a posi- 
tion both delightful and picturesque. 
From Lerici a road joins that from 
which we have deviated and leads 
to 

Sarzana, a city of very remote 
existence ; it formerly belonged to 
the grand duke of Tuscany, who, 
in the fifteenth century, ceded it to 
the Genoese in exchange for Leg- 
horn, at that time a mere village. 
Sarzana offers nothing to arrest 
attention beyond the cathedral, 



524 



NORTHERN ITALY ROUTE 101. GENOA TO LUCCA. 



and some other churches, the Ho- 
tel de Ville, and the public place ; 
as well as its platforms, used for 
promenades, and a castle-fortress, 
commanding a neighbouring height. 
Sarzana encloses about 8,000 peo- 
ple. It gave birth to Nicholas V, 
who, from a simple monk, was, in 
1447, elected pope, and who consti- 
tuted his native place into a bishop- 
ric. Here the antiquary will feel 
pleasure in examining various in- 
scriptions, saved from the ruins of 
an ancient city, the remains of 
which are still visible near Baza- 
nello. 

The distance hence to Lucca is 
fourteen leagues ; the next place is 

Lavenza, an unimportant little 
town, which derives its name from 
a river flowing by it. To the left 
is 

Carrara a handsome little city 
of 6,000 inhabitants, formerly a prin- 
cipality and a possession of the 
Genoese. It afterwards became 
subject to the Malaspina family, 
and fell by right of succession into 
the house of Cibo, a Genoese family, 
one of whose members, Alberick II, 
was in 1664 created Duke of Massa 
and Prince of Carrara. In 1741, by 
the marriage of Hercules Renandi, 
Prince of Modena, with Mary The- 
resa Frances, daughter and heiress 
of the last duke of the Cibo family, 
Carrara came into the possession 
of the dukes of Modena. 

The several churches of this city 
are remarkable from being all built 
of the choicest marbles ; among 
others we will call attention to that 
of La Madonna della Grazie. 

The Ducal palace, in the form of 
a chateau, is on an eminence com- 
manding a view of the sea. Car- 
rara is, above all other places, fa- 
mous for its marble quarries, known 
through so many ages ; these quar- 
ries supplied the marble for the 
Pantheon at Rome. Upwards of 
twelve hundred workmen are con- 
stantly employed in extracting, 



transporting, chipping, sawing, and 
polishing marble. The mountains 
from which it is derived are about 
two leagues in extent, and from 
their base to their summit are en- 
tirely marble. To convey an ade- 
quate notion of the importance of 
these quarries it will suffice to state 
that an immense number of vessels 
are yearly laden with marble, either 
wrought or in the rough, each 
cargo averaging about a thousand 
quintals (fifty tons). The princi- 
pal quarries are those of Miseglia, 
Parano, Colonnata Baddizano. 

The Academy of Sculpture has 
long enjoyed an assured celebrity; 
it is amply provided with both an- 
cient and modern models. 

Near Carrara is a very curious 
grotto, its singular forms and beau- 
tiful calcareous spars are celebrated 
by Dante. No naturalist fails to 
visit the quarries, where are found 
crystals of so pure a water, and of 
such hardness, as to resist the action 
of the wheel. The famous Spaian- 
zani discovered a quantity of 
curious productions in these grot- 
toes. 

The lands round Carrara are 
well cultivated, and abound in chest- 
nuts, olive, orange, and lemon trees. 

Resuming the route from Laven- 
za, the next place is the pleasant 
city of 

Massa, in a fine plain, not very 
far from the sea. The streets are 
broad and well paved ; there are 
two spacious places, called respec- 
tively St Pietro, from the name of 
a church forming its chief orna- 
ment, and Mercuric, because in its 
centre is reared a column, crowned 
with a statue of the god. Some 
good pictures beautify the churches. 
The trade of Massa is principally 
in the sale of Carrara marble, which 
is dispatched to all parts of Europe, 
and even to America The popu- 
lation surpasses 8,000. Massa be- 
ing left behind, 

Pietra Santo is soon reached, a 



AUSTRIA. — ROUTE 102. MILAN TO VENICE. 



525 



large town by the sea-side, near 
which are the qaarries Seravezza, 
which furnish a veined marble, even 
finer and closer in the grain than 
that of Carrara. 

The road here separates into two 
branches ; that in the south-eastern 
direction leads to Pisa, the other 
across some almost desert moun- 
tains and a rich plain to Lucca. 

ROUTE 102. 

FROM MILAN TO VENICE THROUGH 
BERGAMO, BRESCIA, AND VERONA. 

Distance, 23^ Italian postes. 

Postes. 
From ililan to tlie Cascina 

de Pecchi . . • li 

— Canonica . : . . 1 

— Bergamo . . . . ij 

— Cavernago .... 1 

— Palazzoio .... 1 

— Ospedaletto . . -la 
— • Brescia . . . . l 

— Ponte St. Marce . • 1^ 

— Desengano . . .1 

— Castelnuovo . . • 1^ 

— Verona . . . • l| 

— Caidiero .... 1 

— Moutebello . . • IJ 

— Vicenza (by rail) . . 1 

— Pajano .... 1-^ 

— Padua ... .1 

— Poiati di Brenta . . 1 

— Dolo .... IJ 

— Mestre . . . . l| 

— Venice (by water) . . l 

A beautiful road, bordered with 
high poplars, leads from the barrier 
of the Porte Orientale of Milan to 
the auberge of de Loreto. To the 
left is a new road to Monza, but 
the route to be pursued is the right 
linfe, and the first place is 

Crescenzago^ a neat village, the 
proximity of the capital giving ad- 
ditional value to its gardens and 
country houses. Here is seen the 
canal La Martesana, which flows to 
Milan. 

La Cascina de Pecchi \b the first 
post station. 

Gorgonzola (population, 3,000^ is 
a town of some antiquity, for we 
find it in the history of the ninth 
eenturv ; it has been the scene of 



great events. Here, in 1158, Fre- 
derick Barbarossa gained a brilliant 
victory over the Milanese; a cen- 
tury later King Enzo was wounded 
and taken prisoner ; in 1278, the 
Torriani overthrew their rivals the 
Viscontii, to be in their turn sub- 
dued tliree years after. From that 
era Gorgonzola has shared the lot of 
Milan. 

In addition to a well-attended 
cattle market, Gorgonzola has a 
flourishing trade in an excellent 
cheese of its own production, called 
stracchino. Cantone is the architect 
of its recently-erected church. 

To Gorgonzola the canal is on the 
left of the way, but from that 
town to 

Fornaci^ on the right. From this 
village issues two roads — one to 
Brescia, by Cassano and Treviglio ; 
the other, direct to Bergamo. The 
latter is pursued. 

VapHo, a town of tolerable size, 
contains the palace, once the pro- 
perty of the Caravaggii, now be- 
longing to the heirs of the ducal 
family of Melci of Milan. In this 
palace, where he sojourned a con- 
siderable time, the painter Leonardo 
executed the colossal picture of the 
Virgin, still to be seen there. 

From Vaprio the finest prospect 
is at the culminating point of the 
descent to the bridge over the Adda, 
built in consequence of the destruc^ 
tion of that of Trezzo. The banks 
of the Adda are so sown with coun- 
try houses, gardens, dingles, and 
bushy dells, that new beauties arise 
at every step. The bridge of the 
Adda separates Yaprio from 

Canonica, the first town in the 
province of Bergamo — a province 
which at once strikes the eye as 
fertile, well peopled, and well cul- 
tivated. Before long a panorama of 
Bergamo and its faubourgs seems to 
grow out of the horizon, and the 
city is gained after 

Boltiere, Osio, and Gazzaniga, 
have been passed. 



526 NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 102. MILAN TO VENICE. BERGAMO. 



Bergamo. — Hotels : Royale^ L^ Ita- 
lic, La Fenice, Population, with 
the faubourgs, 30,000. Like so 
many cities of high antiquity, the 
foundation of Bergamo is of very 
uncertain era; tradition gives it to 
the Orobians, from whom it passed 
successively to the Gauls, Romans, 
Barbarians, and, lastly, to the Lom- 
bard tings, who made it a duchy. 
At the stirring period frequently 
alluded to, when most of the Italian 
cities sprung into republics, Ber- 
gamo also had its tyrants, its fac- 
tions, and its revolutions. Early 
in the fifteenth century it became 
an integral part of the republic of 
Venice ; and when the existence of 
that " sea Cybele" was determined 
in 1796, Bergamo partook, and has 
continued to partake, of the destinv 
of Milan. 

This city is built on a mountain, 
from which the prospect spreads far 
and wide. The Venetians expended 
enormous sums in adding the arti- 
ficial strength of fortifications to the 
natural strength assured by the posi- 
tion of Bergamo. On the adjac<^nt 
hill of St. Vigilio the ruins of a cas- 
tellated fortress commanding the 
city still remain. 

The faubourg of St. Leonardo, 
which heralds the entrance into 
Bergamo, has all the aspect, bustle, 
and luxuriousness of a city ; it is 
known, also, as the Low Town, in 
opposition to the High Town, or 
the city properly so called. The 
streets of this faubourg are wide and 
sightly, paved after the plan adopted 
in Milan, and full of handsome 
houses, the number of which is 
rapidly on the increase. An annual 
fair is held here every August, and 
a huge fabric, unequalled of the kind 
in Italy, devoted to the purposes of 
this fair ; it was erected about the 
middle of last century, includes 600 
shops and a small place, forming its 
centre, to the beauty and coolness of 
which. a fountain gives no small ad- 



dition. At the time of the fair these 
shops are in great demand, as the 
sale of every description of goods is 
extraordinary. 

In front of this fabric is a toler- 
ably large theatre, belonging to the 
Riccardi familj'-. 

The fatiguing length and rough- 
ness of the ascent to the High Town 
are more than compensated by the 
delightful prospects spread around. 

Of the many interesting places, we 
will specify 

The cathedral, built from the de- 
signs of the Chevalier Fontana, the 
merits of whose architecture are en- 
hanced by the display of good pic- 
tures ; this is, moreover, the last 
earthly resting place of St. Ales- 
sandro, the patron and protector of 
Bergamo. 

The basilica of St. Maria Mag- 
giore dates from the days of the 
Lombard kings, nor is its antiquity 
its only claim to notice. Jacques 
Bassaro, Camillo Procaccini, Gior- 
dano, Ferri, Cavagna, Liberi, and 
other modern artists, have embel- 
lished it with their choice productions. 

Hard by this basilica stands the 
chapel which encloses the stately 
mausoleum of Colleoni, the famous 
leader, who, after having lent his 
aid to different monarchs, filled the 
high post of captain-general of the 
Venetian armies. It is even said 
that to this eminent soldier the art 
of war owes the introduction of 
light artillery. The chapel roof 
was first painted by Tiepolo, a Ve- 
netian artist, and others of his con- 
temporaries, and more lately by 
Camuccini and Diotti. The altar 
pieces are almost without exception 
works of merit, especially a ' Holy 
Family,' by Angelica Kauffmann. 
The chapel is further enriched with 
many clever works in ebony, by 
artists of the country. 

The other churches of Bergamo 
are, for the most part, beautified 
with fine pictures, particularly those 



AUSTRIA. — ROUTE 102. MILAN TO VENICE. BERGABIO. 



527 



of St Alessandro in Croce and St 
Bartolomeo. 

The church of the conrent of 
Santa Grata is distinguished by 
the richness of the gildings and 
decorations which set off its 
walls. 

The Palazzo Nuovo [new palace) 
is incomplete, but forward enough 
to show it is no common structure. 
Scamozzi is the architect. In 
this palace are the municipal offices. 
The statue in the place is that of 
Tasso, who was descended of a Ber- 
gamese family. 

The palace VagUetti is elegant 
in style. 

Those of the families Terri and 
Morone display fine collections of 
paintings. 

That of the counts Secco 
Suardo contains a very valuable 
library. 

The lovers of the science will feel 
interested in the botanic garden of 
Count Maffei. 

The liberality of the founders of 
the Academy Carrara enables its 
directors to add daily to their 
already choice and extended list of 
works of high art ; their funds, 
moreover, enable them to maintain j 
distinguished professors, — among | 
others, Diotti gives public lectures 
on different topics proper to the ob- 
jects of the institution. 

The city possesses a pretty the- 
ati'e, a philharmonic society, and a 
musical iastitute, which boasts no 
less a name than that of Mayer as 
its director. 

There are two public promenades, 
one from the Porte d'Osio, the other 
on the ramparts, — both present en- 
chanting points of view. 

Bergamo enjoys an extensive 
trade in silk and woollen goods, and 
above all in iron ; its stuffs, too, are 
highly thought of, whilst the musi- 
cal world appreciates very highly 
the organs by the brothers Se- 
razzi. 

The territorial productions are 



oils, wines, silks, fruits of delicious 
flavour, and the wool yielded by the 
many flocks pastured on the adja- 
cent hiUs. 

La Brembana, la Seriana, and la 
Valcamonica, are the three princi- 
pal valleys of the province of Ber- 
gamo, and are thickly planted with 
towns and villages. 

The natives of this province are 
passionately devoted to music ; in 
all ages has it given birth to excel- 
lent singers and composers, of whom 
some at present form the pride of 
the Italian stage. We need but 
mention Eubini, Donzelli, Donizetti, 
and David, whose reputation is not 
merely Italian but European. 

Bergamo can also point to a list 
of her sons, eminent in letters, arts, 
and arms. Among painters — Pre- 
vitale, Eneas Salmeggia, Laurent 
Lotto, Moroni, the famous portrait 
painter, Palma le Vieux. Among 
warriors — Tadini, Caleppio and 
Colleoni. Among writers and scho- 
lars — Maffei, Albani, the Tassos, 
Caleppini, Volpi, Lupi, Tiraboschi, 
the mathematician Mascheroni, &c. 

The mountains of this province 
are rich in iron and coal mines, 
which supply the material to a 
great number of manufactories. 

Excellent fruits and delicious 
comfits (comfitti). 

Between the provinces of Ber- 
gamo and Brescia is 

The lake d'lseo, so called from 
its southern shore being the locality 
of the town of d'lseo. The lake is 
formed by the river d'Oglio, which 
has its source in the heights of the 
vaUey Camonica ; its waters are 
well stored with fish ; tench and 
trout abound, and are of a fuU 
flavour. Pruit trees set off the 
banks of the lake, and supply ano- 
ther branch of traffic. 

The province of Bergamo pos- 
sesses hot mineral springs ; crowds 
of both foreigners and natives are 
attracted by their salubrity. The 
inhabitants of this rich province 



528 NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 102. MILAN TO VENICE. BRESCIA. 



are naturally industrious, nor do 
they scruple to leave their country 
in pursuance of their inclination for 
trade. 

From Bergamo to Brescia the 
way skirts the mountain at two or 
three miles distance. This part of 
the country is as populous and pro- 
ductive as that just quitted ; too 
much praise cannot be bestowed on 
the inhabitants, who, by the proper 
application of manures, and a judi- 
cious system of draining and irri- 
gation, have fertilized lands which, 
in former days, seemed condemned 
to everlasting barrenness. 

Cavernago, and the large and 
pretty village of 

Palazzolo, the country of the well- 
known Parisian publisher, Galig- 
nani, are passed before 

Coccaglio ; to the left is the vil- 
lage of 

Co/o^^ne, where the Pazzoni family 
possess a beautiful country house, 
park, and garden, and store of ex- 
cellent wine 

Rovato (population 5,000) is ano- 
ther large village also to the left, 
between Coccaglio and 

Ospedalleto, where there is a 
change of horses. Before entering 
Brescia a spacious avenue is per- 
ceived to the right ; it leads to the 
cemetery of Campo Santo. 

Brescia. — Hotels : La Tour, VEc- 
revisse, Hotel Royale. Population, 
43,000. Brescia is another very 
ancient city of very uncertain ori- 
gin. Some attribute its foundation 
to the Etruscans who dwelt there 
according to Pliny ; others affect 
to trace it to a period even more re- 
mote. Justin afl&rms that the Ce- 
nomanian Gauls established them- 
selves in this place after having 
expelled the Etruscans. In later 
ages Brescia became a metropolis, 
and its dependencies were of no 
trifling extension. 

The Brescian church dates from 
the primitive ages of Christianity. 
In the days of the Apostles, St 



Anatolon repaired tliither to pro- 
claim the tidings of the- gospeL 
St Clatheus, the first bishop of 
Brescia, succeeded to the holy mis- 
sion. When Italy was inundated 
with the barbarians, on the faU of 
the Roman empire, Brescia was 
one of the first places to undergo 
the yoke of Alaric, and then that of 
Attila, the " Scourge of God," who 
destroyed it entirely. In the fifth 
century the Goths returned into 
these countries and induced the 
natives, who had taken refuge in 
the forests and mountains, to quit 
their retreats and rebuild their city. 
From Alboin down to Adelchis 
there elapsed 210 years, during 
which the chronicles of Brescia 
detail no event of importance : but 
this tranquillity was soon to cease. 
The city was stricken with cala- 
mities, overwhelmed with all the 
worst results of civil wars, party 
spirit, feuds between the people 
and the nobles, and the jealousy 
and animosity of neighbouring ter- 
ritories. We cannot deviate from 
the indispensable brevity of the 
historical notices in a work of this 
description by more than this allu- 
sion to the memorable occurrences 
which filled up the long period of 
800 years. 

In the sixteenth century Louis 
XII of France gained possession of 
Brescia, making a solemn entry 
with circumstances of unusual 
pomp ; but the French abused 
their power to such an excess that 
their tyranny became intolerable. 
A conspiracy, under Count Louis 
Avogrado, was entered into to re- 
place Brescia imder the goA^ern- 
ment of Venice, and sacrifice to 
the vengeance of the citizens every 
Frenchman found within its walls. 
The secret of the plot was not 
faithfully preserved ; the conspira- 
tors, notwithstanding, made them- 
selves masters of the city, and 
ruthlessly put to death every 
Frenchman unable to save himself 



AUSTRIA. — ROUTE 102. MILAN TO VENICE. BRESCIA. CHURCHES. 529 



by flight. As soon as Gaston de 
Foix, the nephew of Louis XII, 
heard of this slaughter, he con- 
cluded a truce with the Spanish 
general, Cordova, marched from 
Bologna, before which he lay, upon 
Brescia, reconquered, and delivered 
it up to plunder for three days. 
This was in 1512 ; nor was it the 
last affliction the devoted city was 
to endure : sixty-three years after, 
Brescia, both province and city, 
was wasted by a horrible conta- 
gion, to which it was a second time 
subject in 1630. As if the measure 
of suffering was not sufficiently 
fiUed, in the next century the ex- 
plosion of a powder mill overthrew 
a portion of the city, and caused 
very many deaths. These accumu- 
lated calamities failed to shake the 
constancy or attachment of the 
citizens, who made the blessings of 
a long peace available not only to 
the rebuilding, but the enlarging 
and beautifying of their city. 

Brescia is rich in Roman anti- 
quities : the most valuable of them 
all was only lately brought to light ; 
it is a marble temple, dedicated in 
the year 72 to the Emperor Vespa- 
sian. The ancient remains and 
Roman inscriptions found at diffe- 
rent times, during the researches 
carried on in the district as well as 
the city, have been arranged in 
this temple. A bronze statue of a 
winged Victory is accounted a 
master-piece of Grecian art. The 
subterranean labours connected 
with the recovered temple were 
accomplished under the direction 
of M. Louis Basiletti, and the judi- 
cious classification of the inscrip- 
tions along the walls is the work 
of the learned Chevalier Giovanni 
Labus, archaeologist of the city and 
epigraphist to the Emperor of 
Austria. 

In the Gambara mansion, near the 
temple, the remains of an ancient 
theatre are still visible ; opposite 



to it is another Roman building, 
supposed to have been the law 
courts, as the intermediate space 
was formerly the forum of Nonnius 
Arrius, now the Place Novarino. 

The communal palace, called La 
Loggia, is at the extremity of a 
place with piazzas. Three famous 
architects have laboured on this 
palace : — Thomas Tormentone in 
the first instance, Sansovino in the 
second, while Ealladio supplied the 
large windows, added subsequently. 
This palace is entirely marble ; it 
was begun in 1492, and not com- 
pleted until eighty -four years after. 
Fire reduced it to the state m which 
it is now beheld. 

The new cathedral is also marble, 
and above 200 years old. Basilic 
Mazzoli, a Roman architect, sup- 
plied the plan, and superintended 
the erection of the great cupola. 
The erection of this magnificent 
temple is attributable to the piety 
of the inhabitants, seconded by the 
liberality of their bishops, especially 
by Cardinal Quarini. In the inte- 
rior is a superb mausoleum to the 
memory of Bishup Narva, an admi- 
rable work, by Monti of Ravenna. 

The old cathedral is very near 
the new ; some of the altar pieces 
are by Pietro Rosa, one of Titian's 
best scholars ; the altar of the Holy 
Sacrament and the principal altar 
are adorned with the works of Bon- 
vicino, called Moretto. 

Many other churches will well 
repay inspection, both for their ar- 
chitectural and pictorial excellence 
— St Afra offers this double attrac- 
tion, for nearly all its frescoes and 
paintings are by the classic mas- 
ters, Titian, Tintoretto, Paul Vero- 
nese, and Bassano. 

The churches of St Nazare and 
St Celsus possess the most finished 
labours of Tintoretto; the principal 
altar piece is by Titian. 

The skUful hand of Moretto is 
again recognised in the churches of 



530 NOETHEEN ITALY. — EOUTE 102. MILAN TO VENICE. BEESCL4. 



St Clement, St Pietro in Oliveto, 
and St Maria Calcliera. 

The church of St Catherina is 
indebted alike to the labours of 
IVIoretto and Komanini, between 
whose respective merits decision is 
difficult. 

Its chaste ornaments, in the pure 
style of the fifteenth century, dis- 
tinguish the fa9ade of the church 
of the Miracoli. 

The palaces of Uggeri, Martin- 
engo della Fabriche, Martinengo 
Cesaresco, Maggi (designed by Pal- 
ladio), Cigola, and Averoldi, are the 
most worthy of notice. 

Several noble famihes, the Tosi, 
Lecchi, Fenaroli, Averoldi, and 
others, possess choice picture gal- 
leries ; that of the Brognoli family 
has been sold. 

The theatre of Brescia is large 
and well arranged ; it was opened 
in 1810. The Chevalier Louis 
Canonica is the architect ; the 
internal decorations are by Joseph 
Teosa. 

The learned traveller will not 
forget to visit the Quiriniara hbrary 
— Cardinal Quirina, Bishop of Bres- 
cia, having been its founder. This 
library exhibits a host of objects 
curious from their antiquity ; a 
number of those "small dark vo- 
lumes, rich in tarnished gold," so 
dear from their rareness to the 
bibliomaniac ; and a plentiful collec- 
tion of engravings, both ancient 
and modern, in wood and copper. 
Here is preserved the great cross, 
of the Greek form, adorned on both 
sides with hard and precious stones 
of great beauty. It is affirmed that 
Desire, the last Lombard kmg, gave 
this cross to one of his daughters, 
then abbess of the convent of St 
Giulia. 

The best frequented promenade 
is that beyond the gate Torlonga ; 
there is another lately formed on 
the ramparts, between the gates of 
St Giovanni and St Nazzaro, where 



plays a fountain which supports a 
figure personifying the city of 
Brescia. 

Seventy-two public fountains 
promote the beauty and coobiess 
of the streets and squares, to say 
nothing of the great number in 
private grounds and mansions ; 
they are all fed by the Mompiano 
canal, which has its source in a 
village of that name three miles to 
the north. 

AU the establishments benevo- 
lence supplies for the relief of suf- 
fering humanity — such as hopitals, 
infirmaries, asylums, &c. — are to be 
found in Brescia. Public instruc- 
tion is promoted with judicious 
forethought ; there are seminaries, 
colleges, institutions, a lyceum, a 
gymnasium, elementary schools, 
and an athenaeum of literature, 
art, and science. 

Brescia is essentially commer- 
cial. Besides its manufactures in 
steel and iron, in fire and side arms, 
cutlery and surgical instruments, 
it enjoys a considerable trade in 
linens and cottons, in tin, and even 
bronze. Add to this the abun- 
dance of silk produced in the dis- 
trict, and the opulence of the city 
wiU be readily conceived. Indeed, 
the thought suggests itself from the 
mere bearing of the inhabitants ; 
their habitual gaiety bespeaks easy 
or independent circumstances. 

Brescia is the native place of a 
crowd of illustrious men — of Nicolas 
Tartaglia, the famous mathemati- 
cian, to whom is owing the inven- 
tion of the algebraic formula of the 
third degree ; Benoit Castelli, the 
father of the science of hydro- 
statics ; Lana Terzi, who may be 
called the first of the asronauts (see 
his 'Prodromus,' 1670) ; Bonfadio, 
author of the best history of Genoa; 
Cesar Arid, one of the first poets of 
the day. Among painters — Pietro 
Rosa, Bonvicino (Moretto), Savoldo, 
Romanino, and that Balance Gam- 



AUSTRIA. — ROUTE 102. MILAN TO VENICE. LAGO DI GARDA. 531 



bara whose splendid frescoes orna- 
ment so many of the mansions, 
saloons, and churches of Brescia 
and its environs. Among archi- 
tects — Louis Berretta, Pietro Maria 
Bagnadore, &c. 

The cemetery of Campo Santa, 
beyond the gate of St Giovanni, is 
perhaps the most, beautiful of its 
kind in Italy. A long avenue of 
cypresses leads to a semicircular 
opening, also planted with those fu- 
nereal trees, among which well-exe- 
cuted monuments are appropriately 
disposed. In the centre is a chapel 
adorned with the works of Demo- 
crito Gandolfi, a sculptor residing at 
jVIilan. Within the lateral porti- 
coes are various monuments admir- 
able in style and workmanship ; 
decidedly the best is under one of 
the arches to the left. Though 
only the fa§ade of a portion of the 
right side is complete, enough has 
been done to ensure a well-earned 
celebrity to Rodolphe Vantini, the 
architect. The barrier of the Porte 
Orientale at Milan is also his work. 

The province of Brescia is very 
fertile, and its fecundity is main- 
tained by the many rivers flow- 
ing through it, and facilitating the 
means of transport. The char- 
acter of the population is joyous 
and sincere, and to this natural 
sprightliness the labouring classes 
unite a strong spirit of industry. 

Brescia is celebrated for its ex- 
cellent wines, cheese, butter, and 
pure water. 

Horses are first changed, after 
leaving Brescia, at Ponte St Marco, 
and a lovely country is traversed to 

Lonato (population 500), a town 
of some celebrity in the military 
history of 1796. 

Dusenzano. — Hotel Imperial. Po- 
pulation, 3,600. This town is delight- 
fully situate on the margin of the 
Lago di Garda, in which it possesses 
a sufficient harbour, and is enabled 
to transport the different products 
constituting its spirited trade into 



the Tyrol, Switzerland, and Lom- 
bardy. 

The Lago di Garda, formerly 
called Benacus, owes its present ap- 
pellatioii to a castle on its shore, 
though some authors contend that 
the name is derived from an ancient 
city, the site of which both Garda 
and Toscolano claim to occupy. 
The length of this lake, from Riva 
to Peschiera, is ^hirty-five miles ; 
in the higher part the breadth is 
hardly three, whilst in the lower it 
spreads to nearly twelve miles. To 
the north, the basin is enclosed 
by mounts Tragna, Tremalgo, and 
Baldo ; to the south, the shore 
extends very perceptibly, and is 
bounded at some distance by the 
heights known as the Colli Bena- 
cesi. These hUls slope msensibly 
down to the lake. At the southern 
point a peninsular tongue of land, 
two miles long, juts into the water. 
On this peninsula stands 

Sermione,where Catullus, attracted 
by its beauty, is said to have fixed 
his residence Tradition even points 
out the ruins of an old house as the 
place of his abode, called Catullus's 
grotto. 

The depth of the Lago di Garda 
varies greatly, but in no part does 
it exceed 312 feet. The melting of 
the snows and the rains of the 
spring cause the lake, in the early 
part of each summer, to rise about 
five feet above its ordinary level, 
but it soon subsides. The water is 
very light, excellent for drinking, 
and so transparent that the bottom 
is discernible ; its temperature is a 
few degrees above that of the atmos- 
phere, but at the bottom it is cold 
in summer and warm in winter. 
This phenomenon is caused by the 
great number of sources from which 
the lake is fed. Notwithstanding 
the shelter of the mountains, Lago 
di Garda is subject to various irre- 
gular gusts, which render its navi- 
gation the more dangerous, as the 
least breath is sufficient violently 



532 



NOETHERN ITALY. — EOUTE 102. MILAN TO TENICE. 



to agitate the surface. It has been 
contended that this lake owes its 
formation to the sunken waters of 
the Tyrol and the country of Trent, 
and this hypothesis certainly de- 
rives some weight from the fact 
that a perfect identity exists be- 
tween the Aljjine rocks of these two 
countries and those which consti- 
tute the bed of the lake. 

The alluvial deposits, and the fre- 
quent accretions of earth, tend daily 
to the filhng up of the basin, have 
already choked several ports, and 
necessitate a frequent clearance of 
those in use. It is unquestionable 
that the lake has been much larger, 
for even now its waters visibly 
and gradually contract, and the 
contraction would be greater did 
not so many feeders partially com- 
pensate the loss by evaporation and 
by the flow of the Mincio, which 
issues from the southern extremity : 
indeed divers rapid currents, but of 
inconstant direction, are observable 
at the bottom. 

The Lago di Garda is famous for 
its many kinds of fish, most of 
them highly appreciated by gour- 
mands; the pilchards, lor instance, 
which in the spring and autumn 
collect towards the southern quar- 
ter : trout, eels, pike, barbel, 
tench, and carp are taken in great 
plenty all the year round Of the 
best are trout, eels, and a kind of 
sprat (trota, anguilla, and sar- 
della) ; trout are fished for in a 
very singular manner. A man, 
seated on a kind of tripod fixed to 
the top of a mast erected in the 
water, braves, sometimes for a 
whole day together, the terrible 
and well-known tempests of the 
lake, holding the ends of several 
lines, hooked and baited in a very 
un-Waltonlike manner. The mo- 
ment he feels a bite, he makes a 
sign to his companions in a boat 
at some distance, who hasten to 
the spot, draw up the fish, and 
again retire. The difliculty attend- 



ing this manner of fishing renders 
the trout of an exorbitant price, 
sometimes as high as 5 frs. a 
pound. These fish, highly appre- 
ciated by the ancient epicures for 
their fiavour, something resem- 
bling that of the salmon, are much 
larger than the trout of the moun- 
tain torrents and lakes. 

The large rich eels should be 
roasted, and whilst before the fire 
continually sprinkled with a dress- 
ing of crumbs and various spices, 
and occasionally basted with their 
own fat. When served they will 
be found covered with a delicious 
crust. 

The sardelle are taken in spring 
and autumn. The gastronomic 
traveller should accompany the 
fishermen one morning, and ask 
them to prepare one of their sar- 
delle treats. Thej' land, make a 
large fire, throw the yet living sar- 
delle on the ashes, and leave them 
to kick and cook at leisure. When 
dressed, the fish are served with a 
little salt, pepper, and Sermione oil 
(of the best growth in Italy ). This 
early breakfast on the borders of 
the lake, enlivened by the excellent 
wine of the neighbourhood, with an 
appetite sharpened by the sea- like 
air, opposite the noble Montebaldo 
odoriferous with herbs and simples, 
will be, for the amateur, one of the 
most agreeable moments of his 
life. 

A great variety of pretty, bril- 
liantly coloured shells. 

Delicious figs from the hills of 
Bardolino. The great Soliman 
frequently took pleasure in recall- 
ing them to the memory of his 
Christian prisoners. 

Good M'ine from Benaco. 

Boats to visit Sermione, 5 frs. 

A steam-boat makes trips on the 
lake several times a week. 

The surrounding hills produce 
very little grain, but in recompense ; 
yield oranges, mulberries, and 
grapes. The olive flourishes freely 



AtJS'tlliA. — itOtrXE 102. VERONA. 



533 



on the southern heights. The 
banks are animated with pleasant 
little towns, which generally pos- 
sess convenient ports, suitable to 
the nature of their traffic. Of 
these ports, the most inportant 
are : first, that of Desenzaro, already 
noticed ; then those of Salo, St 
Vigilio, Lazzise, Malasine, and 
Riva; the last named is the largest; 
the military port is at Peschiera, on 
the Mincio. 

About the centre of the lake 
rises a little island nearly a mile 
long, on which Count Louis Lecchi 
has built a very beautiful house 
and laid out a botanic garden with 
a rich collection of plants and 
shrubs, reared with difficulty in 
other paris of Italy. 

In all quarters are the environs 
of this noble lake remarkable for 
some characteristic ; the paper 
mills of Toscalano and Maderno, 
the cascade of Ponale, the palaces 
of Bettoni and Bogliano, the hills 
of Bardolino (so famous for their 
figs), and a long list of other objects 
render the Lago di Garda a most 
agreeable sojuru for the traveller. 

Salo\ with a population of 5,000, 
has been already mentioned; it is 
a walled town, on the western bank 
of the lake, at the foot of a bay, and 
gives its name to an adjoining 
river. It is separated from Desen- 
zano by a range of fertile hills of 
twelve miles extent, which produce 
excellent wines. 

Gnreoiie is on the same bank. The 
many bleaching grounds around it 
show the staple of its trade. The 
whole western coast of the lake is 
rendered even more picturesque 
than nature has formed it, by the 
many gardens with which it is 
studded, all blooming with orange, 
lemon, and choice fruit trees of 
other kinds. 

The next place when the route, 
interrupted at Desenzano, has been 
resumed is 

Peschiera^ with only 1,500 souls, 



but a place of some strength and 
consequence as a military port — 
once possessing an arsenal ; it is 
built at the point where the Mincio 
flows from the lake. 

At the unimportant village of 
Castelnuovo, where a relay is 
provided, the great highway of the 
Tyrol is encountered, as well as 
the line of demarcation between 
those Lombard and Venetian pro- 
vinces, the union of which forms 
the Lombardo- Venetian kingdom. 
The Venetian provinces are eight, 
having for their capitals — Verona, 
Vicenza, Padua, Treviso, Rovigo, 
Belluno, Undine, and Venice. 

VERONA. 

Hotels : Les Deux Toms, La 
Tour de Londres, Le Grand Paris, 
La Gravd Czarine de Moscovie. 

This ancient city, with a po- 
pulation of 50,000, was founded 
three or four centuries before the 
Christian era. Its origin is by 
some historians given to the Etrus- 
cans, but Livy affirms that honour 
to be due to the Liberians, who 
were Gallic tribes. It is undeni- 
able that the Etruscans and Vene- 
tians occupied it, one after the other, 
at least 200 years before our era. 

Verona was often the theatre of 
civil strife; in its territory began 
the wars of Marius against the Cim- 
bri, and of Otho against Vitellius. 
In 312 Constantine carried it by 
storm : in 402 Stihco, the general of 
the Emperor Honorius gained a 
memorable victory over the Goths, 
under Alaric. Like its contempo- 
rary cities. Verona became in due 
time a republic, and suffered no little 
during its republican career. It 
entered into the famous Lombard 
league against the Emperor Frede- 
rick Barbarossa but to little pur- 
pose, for the raging factions of the 
Guelphs and Ghibelines numbered 
partizans in this city as in so many 
others, and not only destroyed all 
tranquillity and internal prosperity, 
F 2 



534 



NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE i02. VERONA. CHURCHES. 



buf caused a lavish effusion of 
blood. The father Giovanni 
Deschio, moved by the many cala- 
mities he witnessed, convoked a 
solemn assembly, in a suitable spot 
two miles from the city. To this 
assembly the leading nobles of 
Lombardy and Venice repaired, 
but they could suggest no better 
remedy for the wounds of the 
country than the marriage of Re- 
naudi d'Este with Adelaide di Ro- 
mano, the niece of the famous 
Ezzelin. It was a remedy of small 
efficacy, for in 1250 Ezzelin was 
created Seignior of Verona. Many 
of the Veronese nobles soon after 
conspired to rid themselves of the 
yoke of this tyrant, but instead of 
the liberty they sought, they met 
death at the hands of the executioner. 
Verona enjoyed a short interval 
of peace and tranquillity after the 
demise of Ezzelin, but new troubles 
soon assailed it from the iron hand 
of its seignior, Dalla-Scala, who 
assumed the title of Captain of the 
People. Among the captains of 
the people who succeeded Dalla- 
Scala and Mastino I, Can Grande I, 
Can Grande II, and Mastino II 
distinguished themselves by a sig- 
nal bravery which both aggran- 
dised their domains and rendered 
them formidable to the other 
princes of Italy ; but their con • 
quests were soon lost by their 
degenerate successors. From that 
epoch Verona was constantly torn 
with factions springing from the 
feebleness of the government and 
the frequent change of masters ; 
indeed it can hardly be said to have 
really known repose until it passed 
under the government of the house 
of Austria. 

Verona, the capital of the pro- 
vince of its name, and the seat of a 
bishopric, is seated on both banks of 
the Adige ; four handsome bridges 
connect the quarters sundered by 
the river. It is a place of great 
strength, which has been rendered 



far more imposing than it was by 
modern additions. 

Of its fifty -three churches nearly 
all present some distinctive charac- 
teristic. The cathedral is a fine 
Gothic structure. 

St Zeno is recommended alike by 
its style and antiquity ; it was 
founded by Pepin, the son of Char- 
lemagne. The other churches are 
principally Gothic. 

Amongst a number of other 
interesting objects, St Bernardino 
encloses the stately chapel Pelli- 
grini, by Samnicheli. That skilful 
professor, so famed for his success 
in military architecture, has be- 
queathed to his country various 
monuments all stamped with the 
unmistakable mark of genius. 

St Anastasia contains fine pic- 
tures of a variety of monuments of 
the fifteenth and sixteenth centu- 
ries ; in the place, of which this 
church is the chief ornament, are 
other monuments of the sixteenth 
century. 

St Fermo Maggiore gratifies curi- 
osity by its many ancient monu- 
ments and by a magnificent wooden 
ceiling. 

The pictures of Santa Maria in 
Organo command admiration ; the 
embellishments of its sacristy are 
the tasteful work of the monk 
Giovanni. 

St Georgio was erected from the 
joint designs of Sansovino and 
Sanmicheli. Its best painting is 
the ' Martyrdom of St George,' by 
Paul Veronese. 

St Sebastiano strikes the eye in 
an especial manner by the gorgeous- 
ness of its fa9ade, adorned with 
four superb fluted columns, and 
with a Greek pillar, obtained, it is 
presumed, from the ruins of some 
ancient temple. Choice marbles 
and beautiful paintings decorate 
most of the altars. 

The palaces Canossa, Verza, Be- 
vilacqua, Pompei alia Victoria, 
Giusti, Meffei, Dalla Torre, &c., 



AUSTKIA. — ROUTE 102. VERONA. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 



535 



were nearly all built from the de- 
signs of Sanmicheli, who is also 
the author of a great portion of the 
city walls and ramparts, and of the 
gates Neuve and la Stupa, which 
connoisseurs pronounce a marvel of 
elegant sohdity. 

- Sansovino and other eminent 
architects, as well as Sanmicheli, 
have enriched the city with many 
of their most finished productions. 

Verona possesses a seminary, a 
lyceum, two gymnasia, a royal 
college for females, two academies, 
two philharmonic and one literary 
society, and two libraries, the 
largest being that of the chapter, 
the wealth of which is very great 
in manuscripts ; among the sixteen 
hundred in Greek and Latin, some 
are of the fourth, fifth, and sixth 
centuries. Many are curious from 
the quality of the parchment or the 
beauty of the characters. 

There are in Verona eleven bar- 
racks, a military hospital, a civil 
hospital, a house of refuge, a house 
of industry, a foundling hospital, 
and two asylums for aged persons 
of either sex. 

The most exciting and attractive 
spot in this city is 

The Place Bra, for there stands 

The Arena, — an amphitheatre 
with no rival in the world except 
the Coliseum at Rome, and with 
this advantage over its stupendous 
competitor, that it is in higher pre- 
servation. The founder and the 
age of the arena are equally un- 
known ; its first mention in authen- 
tic history is in the record of the 
wild beast fights with which Trajan 
delighted the people in 102 ; these 
spectacles were presented in this 
amphitheatre in honour of the 
empress, who was a native of 
Verona. Whether the arena was 
an erection of that great emperor's 
reign, or in that of some of his pre- 
decessors, will perhaps be for ever 
a matter of doubt. At the fete 
given in 1782 by the republic of 



Venice to Pope Pius VI, and at 
that given by the Veronese to the 
late Emperor Francis, fifty thousand 
persons seated at their ease in the 
amphitheatre were enabled to assist. 
This circumstance will convey some 
adequate notion of the gigantic 
proportions of this specimen of 
Eoman greatness. 

The new building by the side of 
the arena is to be appropriated to 
the use of a large body of guards. 
The late Joseph Barbieri prepared 
the plan. 

The vast palace filling so large 
a portion of the Place Bra is to 
include, it is reported, the Pinaco- 
technicon and the school of paint- 
ing. Opposite the two large gates 
of this palace is 

The lapidary museum, upwards 
of a hundred years in existence, 
and commenced by Scipio Mafiei; 
its bas-reliefs and inscriptions are 
very interesting for the light they 
throw upon history. 

On one of the fronts of the 
Herb market is a handsome edi- 
fice called La Casa dei Mercanti, 
its balcony uplifting a statue of the 
Virgin, by Campagna. At another 
front is a fine tower of as ancient a 
date as 1172. 

At the foot of the place is the 
palace formerly the possession of 
the 

Maffei, in which is the very 
ingenious spiral staircase ascending 
from its subterranean commence- 
ment to the very roof — ^it is pro- 
bably unique. 

The Place dei Signori is ennobled 
with 

The consul's palace, an elevation 
of the fifteenth century, with the 
statues of Veronese authors re- 
lieving its upper portions. About 
two hundred pictures, preserved 
from suppressed churches, have of 
late years been deposited in this 
palace, in addition to which are 
many others perhaps of equal ex- 
cellence. 



538 NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 102. VERONA. WINES. ENVIRONS. 



There are other palaces environ- 
ing this place, of wliich some are in 
the official occupancy of the dif 
ferent departments of the govern- 
ment. 

At a very trifling distance are 

The tombs of the Scaligeri, 
seigniors of Verona. These curious 
and crowded monuments, the per- 
fect preservation of which is so 
highly creditable, present one of 
the most attractive sights in Ve 
rona. The most striking are those 
of Mastino II, who died in 1351. 
and his son Can Signorio ; that at 
the corner of the Place dei Signori 
Mastino ordered to be prepared 
during his life-time for the recep- 
tion of his remains ; as in imitation 
of his father did Can Signorio, 
whose monument was finished in 
1375, a year before the death of its 
princely occupant. 

The small church of St Maria 
Antica is near these monuments. 

There are three theatres in 
Verona, the Philharmonic is the 
largest, designed by Bibiena It 
was burnt down in 1749, and re- 
built on the original plan. 

Verona is the head-quarters of 
the military power of the Lombardo- 
Venetian kingdom. It is also the 
seat of the supreme court of justice. 

Juliefs Tomb. — A sarcophagus of 
Verona marble in a garden, for- 
merly the burial place of a Fran 
ciscan convent, is called the tomb 
of Juliet. A chink is contrived for 
the admission of air, a kind of socket 
for the reception of a torch, and a 
reserved space in the part where lay 
the head. It is supposed that Juliet 
died in 1303, in the reign of Barthe- 
lerao della Scala, Shakspeare's Es- 
calo. The rival families who owe 
their fame, if not their remem- 
brance, to the mighty master, were 
styled the Montecchi and the Cap- 
pelletti. The Cappelletti palace is 
still pointed out in Verona, as well as 

"That same ancient vault 

Where all the kindred of the Qapulets lie," 



in the burial ground of the Fran- 
ciscan church. 

The beautiful communal ceme- 
tery was designed by J. Barbieri, 
lately dead, to whose memory a 
grand monument is to be raised. 

The Veronese have at all times 
been accounted sprightly and quick- 
witted. Their city has been the 
birthplace of men who in every 
branch of letters, science, and art, 
have made unto themselves glorious 
names — Catullus, Cornelius, Nepos, 
Vitruvius, Marcus Emilius, Pan- 
vinio, Scaligero, Maflei, the two 
Bianchini, the two Pindemontis, 
Jean Joconde, the architect, Paul 
Galiari, much better known as 
Paul Veronese, Cardinal Novis, 
Guarino, Fracastoro, Spolverini, 
&c. &c. 

Verona is celebrated for its fruits, 
olives, flowers, and long garlick 
sausages (salame dall' aglio), poulet 
a la Veronese. 

The wines of Verona are much 
esteemed j the Val Policella was the 
favourite drink of Augustus ; it 
has also been praised by Columello ; 
by Pliny, who cites it as the plea- 
sure of the Eoman table ; by Cas- 
siodorous, who thought it superior 
to all the wines of Greece, and who 
purchased some for Tlieodoric, 
Ills great but ungrateful master. 
Maffei patriotically boasts of the 
red wine of Affi and wittily trans- 
forms famaloso to famoso. The 
Veronese wines do not keep above 
two years, nor, with the exception 
of vino Santo, do they bear the 
sea ; this wine was once mistaken 
for Tokay at a German court. 

To the traveller who enjoys suf- 
ficient leisure the 

Environs of Verona offer many 
enticements. 

On the mountain of Val Poli- 
cella is that marvellous bridge of 
Veja, which nature herself has 
built at Bolca ; also great store of 
marine petrifactions. 

Mont Baldo is also very curious 



AUSTRIA. — ROUTE 102. VICENZA. 



537 



for its green-coloured earth, its 
potter's clay, its flints, and, other 
terreous productions. 

The valleys of Ronca, Vallarsa, 
and Rovere, in addition to their 
petrifactions, yield mineral waters. 

Cologna^ with a population of 
4,000, and some public buildings, 
stands close to the river Frassine. 
The district is ^famous for its 
almonds. 

Well-known manufactures of 
different articles in hemp <;reate the 
trading wealth of the population 
(3,000j of 

Isola delta Scala, on the river 
Tartaro. 

Areola, Rivoli, and Ronco have 
an adventitious renown from the 
great battles fought in their re- 
spective localities. 

Caldiero is a large village to the 
right of the road from Yerona to 
Vicenza ; it is best known for the 
hot spring of sulphureous and alumi- 
nous water found on its heights. 

In the several directions from 
Verona are many other places and 
objects distinguished for their 
unique character, their picturesque 
beauty, their historical or legendary 
celebrity ; but it is necessary to re- 
linquish further detail, and resume 
the direct route. 

The heights already alluded to, 
forming a link between the Alps 
and the Tyrol, stretch with the 
road to 

Torre Dei Confini; a little be- 
yond which is 

Moiitebello, atown of 3,000 souls : 
where Lannes gave proofs of the 
dazzling bravery which gained him 
his marshal's baton, and his duke- 
dom of Montebello. 

To the left is beheld the town of 

Arcugnano, seated in the midst of 
a delicious plain, bounded by softly 
swelling hills, more delicious still. 

VICENZA. 

Hotels : Les Deiix Roues, 
UEtoile d^Or, Le Chapeau Rouge. 



Population, with its faubourgs and 
villages, 31,000. A city so ancient 
that there is no authentic record of 
its foundation or its founder. It is 
known that at an early period it 
was a Homan municipality, whilst 
many Vicenzese tilled the highest 
offices in the Roman world, both 
under the republic and the empire. 
Very little of the internal history 
of this city has come down to us 
prior to the famous Lombard league 
against Barbarossa, to which it gave 
an early adherence. It also played 
a conspicuous part at the peace of 
Constance, when it was concluded 
between the emperor and the league 
in 1183. Vicenza did not reap the 
advantages hoped for in the liberty 
which resulted to it from the condi- 
tions of the peace; it passed from 
the thraldom of despotism to that 
of factions, from the tyranny of 
princes to that of mobs, and to these 
fruitful evils were added the horrors 
of civil war. 

At the beginning of the thirteenth 
century Vicenza was sacked and 
burned by the Emperor Frederick 
II., nor was it said without truth 
that the political existence of the 
city perished in the flames. Suc- 
cessive changes of masters effected 
little or no change in the disastrous 
condition of Vicenza, and if in our 
days its political weight be hardly 
perceptible in the scale, it at least 
enjoys repose, and the benefit of 
fixed laws and government. 

Vicenza is situate at the foot of 
the Berici hills, at the point where 
the Retrone rushes into the Bac- 
chiglione. Outside the gate Del 
Monte, the Bacchiglione is naviga- 
ble for merchant barks trading to 
Venice. The city is encircled with 
dry moats, a portion of which has 
been brought into cultivation, and 
with walls tottering to their fall. 
The communication between the 
different quarters is secured by the 
nine bridges ; five cross the Bac- 
chiglione, four the Retrone. 



538 NORTHERN ITALY — ROUTE 102. VTCENZA. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 



Vicenza rants high among well- 
built cities, even among those the 
richest in stately edifices, for all the 
works with which Andrea Palladio 
has enriched his native place, are 
characterized by fitness, beauty, or 
magnificence. To this great ar- 
chitect the city is indebted for the 
embellishment of the basilica, or the 
ancient palace called Delia Rag- 
gione, so admirable for its exterior 
galleries, the construction of which 
placed the seal on the reputation of 
Palladio. 

The palaces Chiericati, Tiene, 
(formerly the custom house), Porto 
Barbarano, ''Porto CoUeoni, Valma- 
rana, and some others, best manifest 
the skill of Palladio. But what most 
exalts his reputation is 

The Olympic Theatre, so called 
from the appellation of the acade- 
micians, who founded it in 1584. 
Palladio was himself a member of 
this academy; he terminated his 
glorious career after having accom- 
plished this magnificent work. The 
emulation of his pupils, excited by 
his example, for some time longer 
contributed to the embellishment of 
Vicenza ; of its architectural su- 
periority this city has good right to 
feel proud. 

The palace Trissino, by Vincent 
Scamozzi, and the palaces Losco and 
Cordellina, are worthy the study of 
the tyro and the admiration of the 
connoisseur. 

As much may be said for the new 
cemetery commenced in 1817, on 
the plan prepared by Barthelemi 
Malanarne. This great undertaking 
does honour to the liberality and 
good taste of the citizens. Count 
Velo bequeathed a hundred thousand 
francs for the erection of a suitable 
monument to Palladio, which is now 
in progress. 

The churches of Vicenza gene- 
rally ofi'er the recommendation of 
good pictures. 

The cathedral, or duomo, has a 
grand altar of the most precious 



marbles, as well as several paintings 
by Montagna and Maganza. 

St. Corona has paintings by Gio- 
vanni Bellino, and a variety of in- 
teresting monuments of the four- 
teenth and fifteenth centuries. 

St. Lorenzo is an old church used 
some years ago as a storehouse for 
fodder, but now restored to its pro- 
per destination ; it is Gothic ; among 
its remarkable monuments is one by 
Palladio. 

The best places are those of Dei 
Signori and delle Biade. 

The ancient tower, called the 
Clock Tower, in the Place dei Sig- 
nori, excites wonder by its loftiness, 
which has not at all impaired the 
essential solidity "of the structure, 
although out of all proportion with 
the scanty diameter of the base. 

The railroad from Milan to Ve- 
nice is open from Vicenza to the 
latter place, the trains leave three 
times a-day; fares from Vicenza to 
Venice ; first class, 8 lire, 25 cents., 
second class, 6 lire 50 cents., third 
class, 3 lire, 75 cents. 

The best specimens of the great 
masters exhibited in the Pinacotech- 
nicon, or museum, are, a Madonna, 
by Guido; a half-length, by Annibal 
Caracci; a Holy Family, by Paul 
Veronese; Titian's Magdalene; The 
Virgin and Christ on the Throne, by 
Bassano; a portrait by Bonifacio, 
another by Giorgione, &c. 

The library of Vicenza presents 
a catalogue of 36,000 volumes of an- 
cient and modern works, a number 
which is daily augmented. This 
library is open to the public. 

Amateurs will be glad to inspect 
the ancient engravings which form 
the rich collection of M. Jean Paul 
Vajente, who is also the envied pro- 
prietor of an apartment covered en- 
tirely with the frescoes of Giovanni 
Baptiste Zilotte, the master of Paul 
Veronese. 

The Theatre Aretenio is large, 
and well adapted for all the pur- 
poses of a theatre. 



AUSTRIA. — BOUTE 102. VICENZA. SETTE CO^OIUNE. 



539 



Vicenza is the native place of 
the philosoijher Trissino ; of the 
painters, Montagna and Maganza; 
of the poets, Pagelle, Cembriaco, 
and Scrota; of the scholars, Leoni- 
ceni Porto and Ferretti; of the en- 
terprising traveller Pigafetta, and 
of the architect Palladio. 

Every species of grain, wines, 
silks, raw and prepared, sUk cloths, 
plain, rayed, and spotted velvets, 
straw-hats, linens, earthenware, 
porcelain, and timber, are the main 
commodities of the Vicenzan trade. 

The environs of Vicenza are de- 
lightful ; the 

Campo Marzio is a public prome- 
nade, bounded by hills, and by 
a champaign country, affording 
charming points of view. 

A double row of porticoes con- 
duct to the mountain on which 
stands 

The sanctuary of the Madonna 
del Monte Berico, commenced in 
the fifteenth century, and greatly 
augmented in 1688, according to 
the designs of the architect Boulla. 
Especial admiration is bestowed 
upon the altar of the Virgin, en- 
riched with precious stones and 
choice marbles. Near it is an- 
other altar, with the adornment of 
a magnificent piece by Montagna ; 
but the most valuable possession of 
the sanctuary is the chef-d'oeuvre 
of Paul Veronese, a ' Pilgrim Christ 
seated at the table of the sainted 
Pope, Gregory the Great.' This 
picture is carefully preserved in the 
refectory of the convent. 

Beyond the Monte gate, after 
passing beneath a graceful arch, 
attributed to Palladio, the foot of a 
vast staircase presents itself ; an 
ascent of more than 200 steps gives 
access to the hill of St Sebastiano, 
the declivity of which introduces 
the pedestrian almost as readily as 
the porticoes to the sanctuary of 
the Madonna. The celebrated 

Rotunda of Palladio (now the 
property of the heirs of the Mar- 



quises Capra) is pre-eminent among 
the country houses and gardens 
which intersperse St Sebastiano. 

The grotto of Crostozza, the little 
towns of Tiene and Schio, the vil- 
lages of Nove, Breganze, Valdango, 
Recoaro (well known for its acidu- 
lated waters), and Camisano, have 
aU claims upon the tasteful or in- 
quisitive traveller's attention. 

The waters Of Eecoaro have 
attained a deserved notoriety from 
the success attending their pre- 
scription in numerous diseases. 
But the most interesting excursion 
is to 

Sette Commune, a district now in- 
cluding more than the seven com- 
mimes, of M-hich its name shows it 
to have been formerly composed. 
The dialect of Sette Commue ofiers 
a singular incongruity — it is an old 
German idiom. It has been sug- 
gested that these natives are de- 
scendants of the Cimbri who es- 
caped the rout and overthrow of 
Gains Marius, but this conjecture 
has no support beyond its mere 
probability. The same singularity 
of language is observed also in some 
parts of the Ehoetian Alps, between 
Verona and Trent, and this gives 
rise to the presumption that Ger- 
man troops settled in these parts in 
the tenth century, when they en- 
tered Italy under the command of 
the Emperor Otho, The villages in 
Sette Commune are popluous, and 
the inhabitants are noted for their 
corporeal strength and activity. 
The territory is very fertile ; it 
abounds in medicinal herbs and 
roots, and in lofty forest trees. The 
names of most of these villages 
seem to indicate that timber has at 
all times been a principal produc- 
tion of the district. Indeed, the 
Latin roots of the words Lugo, Lu- 
siana, Salceto, and Rovoreto, point 
out the very description of trees of 
which their woods were mostly com- 
posed. 

The large town of Asiago, with 



540 NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 102, PADUA. PALACE OF JUSTICE. 



5,000 inhabitants, is the most im- 
portant place in the district, and 
after it Gallio, Enego, and Maros- 
tica. 

Pursuing the shortest route from 
Vicenza to Venice, 

Arlesega and the village of 
Mestrino are the only places re- 
quiring specification until Padua is 
reached. Mestrino is situated be- 
tween the rivers Cirisone and 
Brentella. 

PADUA. 

Hotels: nEtole d' Or, VAigle 
d' Or, La Croix d' Or. Population, 
about 51,000. A city of well-estab- 
lished antiquity. Its foundation is 
attributed to Antenor, the brother 
of King Priam of Troy. Virgil, 
Messalius Corvinus, and Aurelius 
Victor are agreed upon that point. 
Others of the ancients, however, 
contend that Padua existed even 
before the fall of Troy, and that 
Antenor did not estabhsh but en- 
larged it. It appears incontestable 
that its origin is anterior to the 
foundation of Rome. Careful re- 
searches have shown that the name 
of Patavium was given on account 
of its proximity to a morass caUed 
Patina. 

According to Strabo, this city was 
one of the most important places 
in Italy ; five hundred members of 
the equestrian order were among 
its inhabitants — an aristocracy 
more numerous than that of any 
contemporay city : it was even in a 
condition to set an army on foot. 
When Rome was taken by the 
Gauls, the Paduan forces are said 
to have contributed greatly to the 
preservation of the eternal city 
from utter destruction. The Romans 
granted Padua all the rights of 
citizenship, and it was enrolled in 
the Fabian tribunate, having at aU 
times the privilege of choosing its 
senators. Given up to the plunder 
of the hordes of Alaric, and again 
to those of Attila in the fifth 



century, it was at a much later 
period greatly damaged by earth- 
quakes, and at length was totally 
destroyed by fire. Narses caused it 
to be rebuUt, but it was sacked 
again by the Lombards ; nor did it 
rise from its ruins imtil the reign of 
Charlemagne brought freedom and 
repose to Padua. 

A series of calamities induced 
this city voluntarily to submit 
itself to the Venetian republic in 
1405. In consequence of an una- 
vailing siege by the Emperor Max- 
imilian, in 1507, the Venetians 
determined to fortify Padua ; it 
was accordingly surrounded with 
walls and bastions, among which 
those called Cornaro and Santa 
Croce are considered models of 
defensive engineering ; they are the 
work of the famous Sanmicheli. To 
the close of the eighteenth century 
Padua followed the fortunes of 
Venice, and like Venice is now 
part of the Lombardo- Venetian 
dominions of the Emperor of Aus- 
tria, and the capital of its pro- 
vince. 

Seven gates, generally of striking 
architecture, give ingress to Padua. 
In spite of numerous and continued 
improvements the streets are still 
narrow and gloomy, but some of the 
buildings are imposing. 

The first place is due to the 
venerable 

Palace of Justice, called La Ra- 
gione, situated in the middle of two 
places. The boldness, especially as 
regards the disposal of the roofs, and 
the gigantic proportions of this 
palace provoke the astonishment 
even of masters of the science of 
architecture. The great hall, which 
has far more the appearance of a 
vast place than a portion of a build- 
ing, is covered with lead, is of the 
rhomboidal form, and of such co- 
lossal dimensions that it may safely 
be pronounced unequalled ; its 
length is 325 feet, its breadth and 
height each 108. By four side 



AUSTRIA. — KOUTE 102. PABUA. CHURCHES. 



541 



staircases ascent is given to two 
grand open galleries, with double 
roofs of lead, and upheld by fifty 
larger pillars of white and red mar- 
ble, and 180 of smaller circumfer- 
ence, but the same material. From 
these galleries the great hall is 
entered, which, notwithstanding its 
enormous proportions, has but one 
roof, and that without any prop 
whatever. Close by the entrance 
are two Egyptian statues, which 
Belzoni presented as a suitable 
adornment to the great haU of his 
native city. Along the waUs are 
frescoes by Giotto and other able 
artists of his day, as well as busts 
in bas-relief of illustrious characters. 
Another peculiarity characterizes 
this hall. The sun's rays fall 
through the windows precisely on 
the representation of that sign of 
the zodiac in which the sun actually 
is in the respective months of the 
year. 

The haU is now used for the 
drawing of the lottery. It was 
converted into a garden, with cas- 
cades, a smaU temple, and a receiv- 
ing room, on the occasion of the 
Emperor Erancis's visit in 1815. 
Musical dramas have sometimes 
been performed there. 

Few even of the Italian cities 
could boast an equal number of 
churches and convents to Padua ; 
the number of convents for the dif- 
ferent monastic orders having been 
forty-five, for nuns twenty-eight, 
and thirty-two parishes. Nearly 
all the churches of these convents 
were rich in pictures. 

The cathedral is chiefly remark- 
able for its beautiful frescoes, espe- 
cially those in the sacristy. 

The basUica of St Antonio, more 
commonly called Del Santo, is ac- 
counted one of the most beautiful 
sanctuaries in existence. It was 
bmlt from the designs of Nicolas 
Pisanio, ia the interval from 1231 
to 1307, and is composed of six 



cupolas flanked by two high and 

exceedingly bold towers. 

The interior is divided into three 
naves, and holds the ashes of manj 
illustrious men and many sumptu- 
ous monuments. That raised by 
the patrician Guerini to the me- 
mory of Cardinal Bembo is of a 
chaste but commanding style, by 
Sanmicheli, who also directed the 
execution of the monument of 
Alessandro Contarini. The mauso- 
leums of Ottavio Ferrari, Antonio 
EoyeceUi, and Catterino Cornelio, 
are productions of a high order. 
Cesarotti and Gaspard Gotti are 
buried in this church. 

In the left nave is the chapel of 
St Antonio, one of the most elabo- 
rate known. Sansovino and J. M. 
Falconetto are the authors of the 
design. The walls are perfectly 
incrusted with glittering marbles 
and bas-reliefs by Campag-na, Tul- 
lius and Antonio Lombard, and 
Sansovino. The decorations of the 
roof, the statues of the Saviour and 
the apostles, are by Titian Minio. 
Titian Aspetti's skill is manifested 
in the altar, the four angels sup- 
porting the candelabra, and the 
statues of St Bonaventuro, St Louis, 
and St Antonio. The remains of 
the titular saint rest in an urn 
under the altar. 

The chapel of the Sacrament is 
admirable for its bas-reUefs, and for 
the four angels and the sepulchre 
of Christ (aU sculptured by Dona- 
letto), above the gate of the chapel 
of relics. 

The choir and the grand altar 
are not wanting in objects with high 
claims to praise, such as the great 
bronze candelabra by Andreo Ric- 
cio, the statues of the four pro- 
tectors of Padua, the Virgin, the 
child Jesus, the great bronze crucifix, 
by Donaletto, the stone statues by 
Campagna. 

In St Antonio are also many 
other chaste marble altars and pic- 



542 NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 102. PADUA. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 



tures of considerable value ; the 
best, however, are in 

The school of St Antonio, to the 
left of the egress from the church ; 
they are by Titian and Contarini. 

The equestrian statue, in bronze, 
on a high pedestal in the place, is 
the very extraordinary performance 
of Donaletto ; it represents the 
famous Erasmus di Narvi, better 
known as Gattamaleta 

Father Jerome, a Benedictine of 
Brescia, was about three hundred 
years ago the architect of St Justine, 
and has miited grand proportions 
with a rare elegance. The interior 
is disposed in three naves with 
seven chapels on each side, the 
architecture of each opposite chapel 
being precisely ahke. Slost of them 
are ornamented with beautiful mar- 
bles, highly polished stones, paint- 
ings, and sculptures. The three 
naves are surmounted with eight 
cupolas, the largest in the centre. 

Among the pictures of greatest 
value are the 'Martyrdom of St 
Justine,' by Paul Veronese ; the 
' Martyrdom of St Placide,' by Luc 
Giordano; ' St Benedict receiving 
St Placide and St Mam- at the gate 
of his Convent,' by Palma, &c. 

Among the sculptures, the figure 
of ' Rachael holding one child within 
her arms with another at her feet,' 
by Giuseppe Comino ; the 'Dead 
Christ, the Virgin, and St John,' 
by Philip Parodi, &c. 

The whole interior of the church of 

L'Annunziata is occupied with 
the frescoes of Giotto, a Florentine 
master, depicting events recorded 
in the Old and New Testaments. 

Among very many attractions 
offered by the church of the 

Eremitani, which is a short dis- 
tance from the arena, are a paint- 
ing by Guido, another by Mon- 
tagna, various frescoes by Guari- 
ento, monuments wrought in marble 
by Ammanati, Canova, &c. 

The other Paduan churches more 



or less include much that is ctiribus 
or interesting ; among others, 

St Gaetano, De' Servi, St Fran- 
cesco, St Benedetto il Vecchio, and 
Notre Dame des Carmes. 

Few words are necessary to in- 
duce a visit to the 

University of Padua. — Although 
the local antiquaries are not ex- 
actly agreed as to its date, there is 
no doubt it was in operation in the 
thirteenth century. Neither is 
there any unanimity as to the ar- 
chitect of the present fabric, some 
giving that honour to San so vino, 
others to Palladio. 

The entrance gate is supported 
by two grand fluted piUars, and 
opens into a large square court, with 
piazzas, two stories in elevation, 
having balustrades in the fashion 
of a gallery running along its side. 
The locality is called II Bo (the ox), 
from the sign of an inn which once 
flourished there. The halls of the 
various faculties are large, com- 
modious, and weU disposed. 

The University contains a hbrary 
of 50,000 volumes, a capacious am- 
phitheatre of anatomy, a museum 
of natural history, and a cabinet of 
natural philosophy, well supplied 
with instruments. Its students are 
about twelve hundred. 

The Botanic garden, commonly 
called that of the Simples, depends 
on the university ; it is in a de- 
lightfid situation, watered with a 
fair stream, flowmg through it. It 
is one of the oldest in Europe. 

The Astronomical Observatory 
is also a dependence of the univer- 
sity. It was formed in 1767 on the 
most elevated poiat of an old castle, 
well known in the days of Ezzehn 
di Romano for its horrible dungeons. 
Its height of 130 feet commands an 
unobstructed horizon, and affords 
every facility for astronomical ob- 
servations. It is justly reckoned 
among the first in Europe. 

A list of the sages who have filled 



AUSTRIA. — KOUTE 102. PADUA. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 



543 



the diflferent chairs of the univer- 
sity would be too long, nor is it 
necessary ; the reputation of this 
college is European, and its mention 
by different writers of different 
countries very frequent, from Shaks- 
peare's 

"Fair Padua, nursery of arts," 

down to very recent tourists. We 
will, however, cite Petrarch, Alberti, 
Acrotti, Speroni, Galileo, Branca, 
Dandini, Lampregnani, Polina, and 
Concina. 

The Seminary, a solid and stately 
edifice, measures 258 feet along its 
eastern front, and encloses three 
large and magnificent courts. The 
library is very valuable, and well 
classified. There are now six bishops 
and one cardinal, who own this semi- 
nary as their alma mater. 

The New Hospital was begun in 
1799, and finished soon after. It 
has three interior couits, the middle 
being a perfect square of 109 feet. 
This court is bounded with a piazza 
of double columns, on the top of 
which stretches a noble terrace. 
The hospital is four stories high, and 
possesses every requisite for the be- 
nevolent and scientific purposes to 
which it is applied. 

The Hospital of Invalids, in the 
Place of the Prato della "Valle, was 
formerly the monastery of St. Gius- 
tina. 

Of modern works, it would be im- 
proper to omit the public shambles, 
the work of the architect Japelli, 
whose reputation was fully esta- 
blished by his 

Pedroochi Coffee-house, the largest 
and perhaps most unique in Italy. 
Hard by this coffee-house is an old 
mansion of very fine and curious 
architecture. 

The most remarkable private pa- 
laces are — 

The Hotel Papafava, full of lovely 
frescoes, modern paintings, bas-re- 
liefs, casts from the antique, and a 
very extraordinary group of sixty- 



six figures, carved by Fasolato in a 
single block of marble. 

The Hotel Maldura displays a 
very elegant staircase, a magnificent 
saloon, some fine paintings, and a 
group of eight marble figures by the 
same Pasolato. 

The hotels Battaglia, Giustiniani, 
and several more, are dignified by 
collections of pictures, books, ar- 
chaeological monuments, and every 
kind of rarity which can gratify 
the curiosity of the tasteful and the 
learned. 

Among the finest gates are thosa 
of Savanarola, St. Giovanni, and II 
Portello. 

II Prato della Valle, seen at the 
termination of a long road, was for- 
merly an extensive morass, corrupt- 
ing the atmosphere with its fetid 
exhalations. The patriotic zeal of 
the patrician Andreo Memmo de- 
prived it of its noxious properties, 
and gave it to the pleasure of the 
Paduans. It is now their favourite 
promenade, as well as their race- 
course. In the middle of II Prato 
della Valle is a small island, the 
canal encircling it being confined 
by parapets, which serve as seats 
to the spectators. The statues of 
illustrious Paduans, or of men con- 
nected with Padua, adorn these 
parapets at regular intervals. The 
most remarkable are those of the 
Chevalier Poleni and Antonio Cap- 
pello, both achievements of the 
youthful genius of Canova. 

There is a very spacious place 
known as 

The Arena, because the traces of 
a Roman amphitheatre are still ob- 
servable in the wall of the enclosure. 
On one side of this place is the 
church of the Annunziata. 

The extreme antiquity of this city 
could not fail to ensure her a long 
catalogue of eminent sons. Among 
the most eminent are : Livy, whose 
house is still shown ; the painters 
Campagnuola and Alessandro Var- 



544 



NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 103. MILAN TO VENICE. 



rotari ; the poet. Albert Mussato, 
Cardinal Mezzaratte, the Abbes 
Fortes and Chesavotti, the tra-veller 
Belzoni, &c. 

In Padua flourish an academy of 
science, literature, and art, a lapidary 
museum, a library, that of the ca- 
pital richer in MSS. and scarce edi- 
tions, than in the number of its books. 
There are four theatres, one being 
devoted to performances during the 
day time. 

Cafe Pedracchi is a very hand- 
some, convenient building, and par- 
ticularly serviceable to travellers 
waiting for the coach from Venice, 
as it is open all night. 

Bookseller. — Zambeccari , near the 
cafe. 

The iron bridge, the work of Ga- 
lateo, was the first constructed of 
that metal in Italy. 

The woollen cloths, ribbons, silks, 
and woollen hose of Padua are oF 
some repute. 

Kailroad from Padua to Venice 
in sixty minutes; fare, first class, 
4 zrs. 50 c. ; second class, 3 zrs. 
50 c. ; third class, 4 zrs. : to Mestre 
only, first class, 3 zrs. 50 c. ; second 
jlass, 2 zrs. 75 c. ; third class, 1 zr. 
25 c. 

Before the opening of the railway 
to Venice, large gondolas belonging 
to and corresponding with the rail- 
way trains waited alongside conve- 
nient platforms, each class being 
kept distinct, and conducted to the 
respective class boats, holding about 
eighteen persons ; each gondola was 
rowed by four men in green uni- 
forms faced with red. As they were 
freighted with passengers they left, 
and by keeping in a line, with their 
gay colours flying, sometimes as 
many as thirty folio win.a: each other, 
produced a beautiful effect. A few 
sous were collected by the men for 
buono mano. 

Passports are demanded, and a 
printed paper given on landing at 
Venice. Previous to leaving, it 



must be reclaimed and signed by 
the police. Venice described at 
page 131. 

EOUTE 103. 

MILAN TO VENICE BY CHIARI, 
BRESCIA, AND VERONA. 

Distance, 22f postes. 

Postes, 
From Milan to Cascina del Pecchi 

— Cassano 

— Caravaggio 

— Antignate 

— Chiari - - - 

— Ospedaletto 

— Brescia _ - - 

— Brescia to Venice - 15J 

Fernaci and Inago uiay be passed 
without comment. The first place of 
any note in this route is the town of 
Cassano, on the Adda. It has 
been the scene of great events : here 
the too-famous Ezzelina di Romano 
was conquered by the Guelphs ; 
here in the last century the French 
suffered two defeats, by Prince 
Eugene in 1705, and by Suwarrow 
in 1799. Of its once celebrated 
castle only a noble wreck remains. 
So early as 1320, the canal which 
connects the Adda with Castiglione 
Lodigiano was dug at Cassana ; 
it still waters the district of Lodi. 

Groppello, an appurtenance of the 
archbishopric, is near Cassano. 

Trediglio, a town of 5,000 souls, 
traces its origin to the eighth cen- 
tury. It became considerable in 
the tenth, and was subjeeted by the 
Visconti in the fourteenth. A hun- 
dred years later it was added to the 
Venetian dominions. There are few 
small towns with churches so beau- 
tiful or so majestic as those of Tre- 
viglio ; the Ambrosian ritual is not 
observed here. 

Caravaggio^ with a population of 
6,000, is eminent for the three great 
names enrolled in its registers, 
Polydoro Caldara (so much better 
knowh as Caravaggio), who, having 
entered into the service of Baphael, 



AUSTRIA. — ROUTE 104. MILAN TO VENICE. LODI. 



545 



became so accomplislied a painter 
as to be accounted able and worthy 
to finish the works the great master 
left incomplete. Michael Angelo 
Berigi (also styled Caravaggio), an 
artist whose forcible style and 
powers of imagination have caused 
him to be compared to the greater 
Michael Angelo Buonarotti. Fabius 
Mangone, who from a poor mason 
became the rival and equal of the 
first architects of his day — his 
works are still studied and admired 
both at Rome and Milan. 

Some fine paintings by the 
brothers Campi, retouched by Diotti, 
embellish the Prevotal church; 
but the most remarkable building 
is the sanctuary of the Madonna, 
commenced in 1575 on the designs 
of PeUigrino Tiboldi. This sanc- 
tuary, which is held in high vene- 
ration, is a little way out of the 
town, and is approached by a grand 
avenue terminating in piazzas, 
under which a fair is annuallv 
held. 

Mozzaniga, the population of 
which is now hardly 600, was for- 
merly of some consequence ; it 
suffered greatly during the wars of 
religion, and in the bitter contests 
between the Venetians and Mila- 
nese. 

The Serio is crossed at Isso. 
Antignate, a village of 1,300 in- 
habitants. 

Calcio, though with only 5,000 
souls, gives its name to a province 
governed for many centuries by its 
own laws and ordinances. It is on 
the right bank of the Olio. 

Chiari has 9,000 inhabitants. It 
contains a good hospital, a public 
library, a fine cathedral, and a very 
remarkable tower holding eleven 
bells. Chiari was the birthplace 
of Stephen Marcelli, to whose 
memory a beautiful monument, 
by Monti of Ravenni, has been 
raised. 

For the remainder of the route 
f.ora Ospedaletto, see page 5C8. 



ROUTE 104. 

HILAN TO VENICE BY CREMONA 
AND MANTUA. 

Distance, 25 postes. 

Posies. 

From Milan to Melegnano - 1^ 

— Lodi - - . - lA 

— Casalpusterlengo - - l| 

— Pizzighettone - - - 1 

— Cjremona - - - 2 

— Cicognolo - - - 1 

— Piadena - - - - li 

— Bozzolo - • - - of 

— Caste Uuccio - - - ij 

— Mantua - - - - 1 j 

— Nogara - - - - 1} 

— Legnago - - - - li 
-— Montagnana - - - 1? 

— Este . - - . ij 

— Monselice - - - 1 

— Padua - - - - IJ 

— Venice - . - - 4 

Melegnano was formerly a fortress, 
much beloved by Bernabo Viscon* 
ti. It was here that Francis I of 
France, and his great marshal, Tri- 
ulze, routed the Swiss army, and 
by the victory extinguished the 
last hope of Maximilian Sforza. It 
is now a town of some importance; 
its walls are washed by the Lambro 

A few miles further the noble 
and river-like canal La Muzza is 
crossed ; its dikes are of the most 
enduring construction, and its wa- 
ters have spread fertility through 
the whole district ; for what, from 
artificial irrigation, is now one vast 
blooming meadow, in the tenth cen- 
tury was a huge forest. Other 
streams also promote the agricul- 
tural riches of this champaign 
country. 

Lodi. — Hotels : Le Soleil, L" Eu- 
rope. Population, 16,000. Lodi is 
the capital of the province, and is 
built on the Adda. It still retains 
the name of Laus Pompeia, which 
properly belonged to an older Lodi, 
three miles distant, restored by 
Pompeius Strabo, after having been 
almost wholly destroyed in the long 
struggle between the Romans and 
the Gauls. It was a second time 
destroyed in even more disastrous 



546 NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 104. MILAN TO VENICE. LODI. 



wars, those with the barbarians ; 
a third time by the Milanese. The 
Emperor Frederick I, the implaca- 
ble enemy of Milan, rebuilt the 
walls of Lodi, and wisely gave to 
the city the interposition of the 
river as its first exterior defence, 
so that to this emperor is attri- 
butable the establishment of the 
present city. Lodi was successive- 
ly ruled by the Fissiraghi, the Vis- 
tarini, and the Vignati, but it fell 
at last into the power of the Vis- 
conti. 

This province boasts a distinctive 
character ; it is the pastoral realm 
of cheese, of the rich cheese im- 
properly called Parmesan or Pla- 
cenzan. Those cities were indeed 
the first to export this article, 
whence the name, but it is all pro- 
duced by the territory of Lodi, 
which does not perhaps contain a 
single cottager unconnected with 
the cattle or the cheese press ; a 
thousand pastures are encountered 
all through the country, each with 
its herd of cows. 

The finest church in Lodi is the 
Incoronata, by Bramante. The 
palaces Bacni and Merlini, as well 
as the Episcopal palace, are well 
worthy of notice. The most re- 
markable establishment is the great 
Educational Institute for young 
ladies, directed until her death by 
Maria Cosway, and now in the 
hands of a society of nuns called 
the English ladies. 

The celebrated Mary Anne 
Starke died at Lodi, but was 
interred at Milan. 

Antiquaries and arch geologists 
will be interested by a visit to the 
hospital, for in its courtyard 
have been gathered great store of 
old Roman tabular and engraved 
stones. 

Tho. beautiful bridge over the 
Adda is famous from the deadly 
struggle for its possession between 
the French and Austrians in 1796. 
It has been said that no praise was 



more grateful to the ear of Napo- 
leon than that ivhich characterised 
him as—" he of Lodi's bridge." 

Crema, on the Serio, has a popu- 
lation of 9,000. It arose during 
the Lombard wars, has sustained 
several sieges, and had long to 
struggle with the Cremonese. It 
fell eventually from the Benzoni to 
the Venetian republic. Canvas, 
thread, and very superior flax are 
the trading commodities of Crema. 
Casalpusterkngo, a town of 4,000 
souls, is a short distance from the 
Po. Here the road branches into 
two lines, one to Placenza, the 
other to Verona. 

Codogno (population, 8,000) is a 
wealthy and commercial town, with 
some fine churches, schools, a hos- 
pital, and a pretty theatre. If any 
one wish for ocular demonstration 
of the importance and extent of 
the trade in the cheeses of Lodi, the 
stores of that comestible in Co- 
dogno will abundantly supply it. 

Maleo. a handsome village, the 
foundation of which is given to the 
Roman, Maleolus. Here, in the 
war of 1733, Charles Emanuel of 
Savoy fixed his head-quarters. 

The village of Gera has afforded 
material for much historical and 
antiquarian disquisition. When the 
Romans, under their consuls, Mar- 
cellus and Cornelius, carried on 
their memorable warfare in the 
Cisalpine plains, the Gauls threw a 
large garrison into and strongly 
fortified Acerra on the Adda, be- 
tween Lodi and Crema, and not far 
from the Po ; but these defences 
could not stay the valour of the 
Romans, who carried Acerra and 
destroyed it. Was the Acerra of 
that day the Gera of ours ? is a 
question still agitated. 

Gera d' Adda is a large district 
formerly covered by the lake Ge- 
rondo, drained away by the hand 
of time, aided, tradition avers, by 
that of man. Traces of the ex- 
istence of this lake are still pointed 



AUSTRIA. — ROUTE 104. MILAN TO VENICE. CREMONA. 



54 7 



out in that part of the country 
most locked between the Adda and 
the Po. 

Pizzighettone is a castellated 
fortress, built on the Adda, in 1123, 
by the Cremonese to keep in check 
tlieir restless neighbours — the 
Milanese; it fell, however, before 
Philip Mary Visconti, who added 
greatly to its defences. Francis I, 
after his defeat at Pavia, was kept 
prisoner in this fortress; many me- 
morials of that gallant and chival- 
rous monarch are still preserved. 
Pizzighettone underwent several 
sieges; it capitulated in 1733, but 
not until after Gera was carried. 
The Emperor Joseph dismantled 
this fortress, as well as many others, 
in 1782, and transformed it into a 
prison, destroyed on the approach 
of the French in 1796 It is now a 
barrack. The adjoining town is 
populous and the neighbourhood 
fertile. The Prevotal church, and 
that of St John, are beautified with 
the paintings of the brothers Campi. 

Cava Tigozzi occupies a small 
hilL, the summit crowned by its 
church steeple and by an old con- 
vent, now a maison de plaisance. 

Cremona. — Hotels: V Hotel Royal, 
and Le Chapeau. This city, with 
a diminished and sadly dispropor- 
tionate population of 26,000 is 
situated near the left bank of the 
Po. The era of its very ancient 
foundation is uncertain — it was long 
subject to the Gauls; when it passed 
to the Romans it was attached 
to the Aniesan tribunate. The ir- 
ruption of Hannibal brought a train 
of calamities to Cremona: it suf- 
fered afterwards from being in the 
interest of Marc Antony and from 
opposing his successful competitor 
Octavius, indeed, despoiled the Cre- 
monese, and shared their lands and 
houses among his veterans ; nor 
did he spare the district of Mantua. 
It was in this spoliation that Virgil 
lost his possessions, and so gained 



fame and wealth. Cremona after- 
wards adhered to the fortunes of 
Vitellius, and at the fall of that 
brutal tyrant was punished by being 
given up to plunder for four days. 
It was burnt down a.d. 69, but the 
care of Vespasian rebuilt and re- 
peopled it, and it soon resumed its 
proper rank among the cities of the 
empire. In the seventh century it 
was besieged by King Agilulf, who 
wreaked on it a most atrocious 
vengeance. It was soon after sack- 
ed by tlie Goths, and utterly de- 
stroyed by the Sclavonians and 
Lombards. It was raised again by 
Frederick Barbarossa. 

During the contests of the Guelphs 
and Ghibelines Cremona was taken 
by Arrigo VII, who dismantled its 
walls, choked up its moats, and 
threw down its towers. The reign 
of Charlemagne, it has been before 
shown, saw most of the Italian 
cities independent and republican, 
but their strifes were incessant, 
some siding with the popes, others 
with the emperors. The Emperor 
Frederick I (Barbarossa) employed 
the Cremonese militias as the in- 
struments of his vengeance against 
the Milanese, and had so great a 
predilection for the city that he 
gave it the privilege of striking 
money, and had Guido Crema raised 
to the pontifical throne solely be- 
cause he was born at Cremona; 
this was the antipope. Paschal III— 
1164. But when the emperor, 
blinded and rendered tyrannical by 
his fortune, was abandoned by his 
adherents, the great Lombard league 
began — it was concluded in the mo- 
nastery of Pontida chiefly through 
the instrumentality of Anselmo 
Dovara, a native of Cremona. Thus 
were the Milanese reinstated in 
their country by the very parties 
who had so largely contributed to 
drive them from it. 

The peace of Constance gave 
Italy a seeming repose, but in re- 



548 NOBTHERN ITALY KOXJTE 104. MILAN TO VENICE. CREMONA. 



iality awoke all its slumbering feuds. 
Cremona, choked up as it was with 
ruined towers and ramparts, was 
so torn with insane factions and 
civil strife, that it actually became 
rent into two distinct cities, one 
Guelph, the other Ghibeline, the 
stream of the Cremonella being the 
line of demarcation. It afterwards 
underwent the yoke of Hubert Vis- 
conti, of Ponzoni, and of the Fon- 
dulos, who ceded it to Philip Mary 
Visconti, Lord of Milan. That 
prince gave it as a marriage por- 
tion with his daughter to Francisco 
Sforza. From that epoch Cremona 
has followed the fortunes of the 
duchy of Milan. 

In 1702, the French Marshal Vil- 
leroi made Cremona his winter 
quarters, but was taken prisoner 
in a nocturnal surprise by Prince 
Eugene of Savoy. That great ge- 
neral, however, was unable to re- 
duce the garrison, which harassed 
his retreat, nor did it surrender 
until five years after. In 1796 
Cremona opened its gates to receive 
the victorious French after the bat- 
tle of Lodi ; it was retaken by the 
Austrians in 1799, to be re-ceded 
to the French in 1800. In the 
last century this city was prosper- 
ous, well-peopled, and environed 
with flourishing faubourgs which 
are now but miserable huts. The 
surrounding walls are elliptical ; 
the CremoneUa runs through the 
city, and passes by a subterranean 
channel into the Po. The streets, 
places, and palaces, are very 
noble. 

The Episcopal palace, built a few 
years ago by Omobino Offredi, wiU 
long do honour to that prelate's 
memory. 

The tower of Torrazzo, the first 
object descried in the approaches to 
Cremona, is accounted the highest 
in Italy ; it stands in the principal 
place. The age of this tower is un- 
certain, the building of which it 



forms part having been commenced 
in 754, and finished in 1284. 

The cathedral, or duomo, presents 
a noble fa9ade of white and red 
marble, with a multiplicity of co- 
lumns ; it is rich in paintings, the 
best being the ' Crucifix,' by Por- 
denone, those by Boccaccino, Ber- 
nardo GaUi, and the Campi, and the 
recent frescoes by F. Diotti. 

The other churches best requiting 
a visit are those of St Pietra, St 
Augustine, St Dominico, and St 
Sigismondo. 

Cremona has its fuU share of use- 
ful, ornamental, and benevolent in- 
stitutions and palaces ; of its two 
theatres one is supported by ama- 
teurs. 

Among private treasuries of art 
or antiquities, the most distin- 
guished are the numismatic mu- 
seum and other rarities in the pos- 
session of Count Ponzoni ; the me- 
dals of the ex-councillor ; Pedrotti, 
and the statues by Canova in the 
mansion Bolzezi. 

The Cremonese have in aU ages 
been devotedly attached to music 
and painting, and have successfully 
cultivated both. The excellence of 
their musical instruments is so 
well estabhshed that to caU a violin 
or a violoncello a " Cremona," is to 
vouch its superiority. Pope Gre- 
gory XIV (Mccolo Sfrondate) was 
a native of this city. 

The cottons of Cremona are of 
some repute, as weU as its almond 
cakes, its confections of fruits in 
mustard, and its preserved quinces ^ 
yet the great bulk of its trade is in 
the territorial product, wines, corn, 
silk, and very superior flax. 

Soncino, a fortress of former 
celebrity. The inhuman Ezzelin 
died in its walls, after having been 
wounded and taken prisoner by 
one of the inhabitants. What 
most unequivocally demonstrates 
the former spirit and importance 
of this little place is that in it were 



AUSTRIA. — EOUTE 104. MANTUA- 



549 



established the first Hebrew print- 
ing presses. The Soncino editions 
are now scarce and valuable. 

Castel Leone, another fortress, 
raised by the Cremonese as a pro- 
tection against their inveterate 
foes the Milanese, who suffered so 
total a defeat near this fort in 1213 
that they lost, thek carroccio, the 
remains of which are stiU. shown 
in the cathedral of Cremona. The 
carroccio was a very large car, in 
which were a cross, the grand 
banner of jVIilan, the military chest, 
and sometimes even the Host. It 
was regarded by the Milanese as 
was the ark by the Jews, and is 
prominent in the histories of the 
Lombard wars ; its use was abo- 
lished by Otto Visconti in 1582. 
Castel Leone became afterwards 
the seat of the principality of 
Cabrino Fondulo. 

Soresina is a thriving and com- 
mercial town. 

Casalbuttano is of the same cha- 
racter, with a large export trade 
in silk. 

Along this route are found the 
forts or castles of Genivolta, Bor- 
dolano, Cicognolo (now the palace 
of the Pallavicini family), Castel 
Manfredi, Pozzo Baronzio, Torre 
d'Angioloni, and others. These 
many strong places show the fre- 
quency of warfare in those times 
when wars, characterized ahke by 
bravery and barbarity, were the 
grand business of the Italian com- 
munities. The Cremonese, Bres- 
cians, Placenzans, Parmesans, and 
Mantuans made these rich plains 
their battle ground. 

St Lor^izo de Picenardi is only 
remarkable for a very picturesque 
Gothic castle. 

Piadena, formerly a fortress, is 
now a good-sized open towi;. Sacchi 
(sumamed Piatina), the author of 
the 'Lives of the Popes,' was a 
native of this place. 

Cavalto7ie, to the left, is said to 



occupy the site of an ancient city, 
swept from the very face of the 
earth by the savage Attila. 

Bozzolo, with a castle, and a pre- 
sent population of 4,000, once made 
part of the Cremonese republic. 
It then held the mint ; the coins 
struck there are now exceedingly 
rare. 

The Oglio is crossed from St 
MartiDO dell Argine to Marcaria, 
and after traversing the Fossa 
Maestra and the fort of CasteUuc- 
cio, a beautiful road leads to 

3IANTUA. 

Hotels : Le Phoenix, Le Lion d' Or, 
L'Aigle d'Or, La Croix Verte. Po- 
pulation, about 26,000, including 
2,000 Jews. Mantua is a proof 
how much greater celebrity a pro- 
vince or a city acquires by gi%ang 
birth to one man of commanding 
genius than from a series of wars 
and conquests. Compared to the 
numbers who recognise in this 
region the birthplace of Virgil, 
how few know or care that IMantua 
is very ancient — attributed to the 
Thebans and to the Etruscans ; that 
it was successively held by the 
Etruscans, the Gauls, and the 
Komans ; partitioned by Augustus 
Cffisar among his soldiers ; besieged 
in vain by Alaric, equally in vain 
by the Hungarians and Saracens ; 
and again by Ezzelin. 

Like the other free cities, Mantua 
was cursed with its factions and 
feuds. It feU under the power of 
the Gonzagi in 1328. Charles V 
formed it into a duchy, and it was 
ruled by seven successive dukes. 
In 1630 the plague made fearful 
ravages in Mantua ; of its 55,000 
inhabitants more than 40,000 died 
—a depopulation from which the 
city has never recovered. The 
duchy was united to that of Milan 
on the death of the last duke, 
Charles IV, in 1708. .■.:'■> 

Mantua stands on two islands, 

G 



550 NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 104. JVIANTUA. PONTE DEI MOLINI. 



formed by the interlacing of three 
canals, drawn from the river Mincio. 
One flows through the heart of the 
city, and forms at its extremity a 
sufficient port for the craft required 
by the traffic of the citizens, which 
is chiefly in the exports of silk and 
woollen goods, oats, rice, wines, 
and cattle. The unports are merely 
the simple articles of ordinary con- 
sumption. The southern canal is 
now dry, and planted and cultivated 
where the soil permits. Two lakes, 
called Mezzo and Inferiore, sepa- 
rated by the bridge of St Georgio, 
are filled by a third canal. The 
Lago di Sopra, to the northward, is 
formed by an enlargement of the 
Mincio, accomplished, by means of 
the dikes constructed in 1138. 
The most remarkable of these 
structures is the 

Ponte dei Molini, at once a dike, 
a bridge, and a piazza ; it restrains 
the course of the Mincio, and 
through several apertures conveys 
the waters of the Lago Superiore 
for the supply of corn and silk 
miUs ; it formerly stretched from 
the citadel to the port, but unhap- 
pily, when the Visconti, during a 
war with the Gonzagi, attempted 
to divert the course of the Mincio, 
the waters rose, overcame their 
dikes, and carried away a portion 
of the Ponte dei Molini ; the insuf- 
ficient repairs still bear the name, 
of La Rotta (the break) The fau- 
bourg of St Georgio, well known 
for its manufactories and numerous 
convents, was demolished towards 
the close of the last century, and 
the site occupied by a half-moon 
fortification, defending the bridge 
and the access into the city. There 
are also six interior bridges. The 
air of Mantua was formerly insalu- 
brious, but it is now greatly im- 
proved, by the drainage of the 
stagnant waters, the progress of 
cultivation, and the elevation of 
the land, by prodigious labour. 



above the reach of the overflowing 
river — a protection, however, which 
in 1839 proved inadequate, as the 
Mantuan territory was then sub- 
jected to a terrible inundation. 

Mantua has been the seat of a 
bishopric since the ninth century. 
It is a weU-built city, whilst it is 
extraordinary enough that there are 
no traces of its Roman existence — 
the more extraordinary when it is 
remembered that Mantua was never 
sacked or destroyed like IMilan or 
Brescia. 

Among the principal places are 
those of 

St Pietro, dell' Erbe, and Virgi- 
liana ; the last was formerly a 
marsh, but is now an agreeable 
promenade, handsomely built and 
planted. Here is the prison of 
Ergastolo, one of considerable ex- 
tent. 

The Cathedral is apportioned into 
five naves, without including the 
chapels built from the designs of 
Juho Romano. In this church lies 
St Anselm, the protector of Mantua. 

St Barbara in Corte presents a 
very beautiful steeple by Bertani. 

St Andrea is the work of Juvarra, 
so well knoAvn in Turin ; the cupola 
is admirable ; its valuable frescoes 
are by Julio Ron>ano, Mantegno, 
and others. 

St Barnaba is visited for its pic- 
tures of the miracle of the 'Loaves 
and Fishes,' by Costa, and the ' Mar- 
riage of Cana,' by Alberti. It is 
also interesting as the last resting- 
place of Juho Romano. 

St Egidio has a similar interest 
by holding the ashes of Bernardo 
Tasso, the father of the poet of the 
' Jerusalem.' 

The Palace of the T, so caUed 
from its shape, is the most prized 
of any in Mantua, and does most 
honour to the reputation of Juho 
Romano, for that great artist has 
enriched it with his ' Defeat of the 
Giants,' his ' Loves of Psyche,' and 



AUSTRIA. — ^ROUTE 105. MH-AN TO BOLOGNA. PLACENZA. 



551 



other mythcdogical subjects. The 
fine stucco ornaments were execut- 
ed by the Abbe Primaticcio. The 
palace of the T was built by Car- 
dinal Francisco, tutor to Duke Fre- 
derick Gonzaga. The grounds are 
very extensive. 

The other more conspicuous pa- 
laces and public edifices are, the 
palace of the ancient dukes, though 
the number of its good paintings 
has been diminished ; ot finance 
and justice, a strange edifice raised 
by Julio Romano for his own use ; 
one civil and one military hospital ; 
two orphan asylums, an arsenal, 
a gymnasium, three theatres, 
&c. &c 

The fortifications place Mantua 
in the first rank of strong cities ; 
besides deep broad moats and double 
bastions, it possesses a citadel re- 
garded as impregnable. 

Virgil was born at Andes, the 
present Pietole, a small neighbour- 
ing villaga Mantua has also given 
birth to Selvatico, Pomponaccio, 
Castiglioni, Bettenelle, and others. 

The country round Mantua is 
fertile, and the country houses 
are numerous ; the finest perhaps 
is la Favonta, built by Ferdinand 
Oonzaga in 1602, 

f^<;At short distances from the 
city are the castles of Belforte and 
Gazuola (where the Gonzagas held 
their court), Viadana, Bagoforte, 
Torre d'Oglio, Gonzago (where 
spnmg the illustrious famUy of 
the name), and other castles and 
villages often cited in the last 
Italian wars. 

In continuing the route from the 
gate of St Georgio, the road runs 
through the towns or villages of 
Stradella, Zuzaro, Castellaro, No- 
garo, Sanguinetto (the chief place 
of a very fruitful district), Cerea, 
St Pietro, and 

Legnogo, a large town with 9,000 
souls, and a great trade in corn. It 
was also the scene of great military 
events. 



Bevilacqua, a military position of 
some importance. 

Mentognana. — See Table of Con- 
tents. 

For the remainder of the route 
through Saletto and Ospedaletto 
to Este, and thence to Padua, see 
Table of Contents. 

ROUTE 105. 

MILAN TO BOLOGNA BT PLACENZA, 
PARSIA, AND MODENA. 

Distance, 18 j postes. 





Postes 


From Milan to Melegnano - 


- H 


— Lodi - - - - 


- li 


— Casalpusterlengo 


- H 


— Placenza - - - 


2 


— Fiorenzuola 


2 


— Borgo St Donnino 


1 


— Castel Guelfo 


1 


— Parma _ - - 


1 


— St Ilario - - - 


1 


— Reggio 


1 


— Rubiera - - - 


1 


— Modena 


1 


— Samoggia 


- n 


— Bologna - - . 


- u 



The route from Milan to Casal- 
pusterlengo is described in the 
preceding pages. 

Some unimportant villages and a 
frontier custom house are passed, 
and the Po overcome by a bridge 
of boats, to enter 

PLACENZA. 

Hotels: St Marc, L^Italie, La 
Croix Blanche. This city, which 
could easily enclose 100,000 inhabi- 
tants, hardly counts 30,000, even 
with the population of the exten- 
sive faubourgs. When the Romans, 
bent upon wresting all Upper Italy 
from the Gauls, established two 
mihtary colonies on the Po, one was 
at P!acenza, and strongly fortified ; 
it was foimded in the year 350 of 
the Roman era. When, in 535 of 
the same era, Hannibal achieved 
one of his many victories near 
Placenza, the city was sacked by 
the unsparing Carthaginian. In 
the wars between Vitellius and 



552 



NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 105- PLAQENZIA. CHURCHES. 



Otho, the amphitheatre was burned. 
Totila, King of the Goths, in the 
sixth century, subjected Placenza 
to a long and obstinate siege. The 
Guelphs and Ghibelines, who form so 
integral a portion of the history of 
Italian cities, carried the usual train 
of discord and bloodshed into Pla- 
cenza. Its government fell rapidly 
from family to faraily until it 
centered in the Visconti ; they 
were aU changes without ameliora- 
tion, and Placenza feU at last to the 
Farnese. The first duke, Pietro 
(son of Pope Paul III), a petty and 
inhuman tyrant, was stabbed by 
conspirators in his own palace, and 
his dishonoured corpse flung from 
the balcony. The house of Farnese 
became extmct, and Placenza 
passed under the rule of the in- 
fants of Spain. In the treaties 
consequent upon the fall of Napo- 
leon, Placenza, along with Parma, 
formed part of the new state given 
to the sway of the Empress Maria 
Louisa, under the title of Duchess of 
Parma, Placenza, and GuastaUa. 

The streets of this very exten- 
sive city are open but irregular ; 
the corso, however, has few rivals 
either in the grandeur of its propor- 
tions or its buildings. 

The Cathedral contains some 
very precious frescoes by Guercino 
and L, Caracci, as well as two fine 
paintings by Landi. 

The Church of St Francisco is 
strikmg from its combined chaste- 
ness and majesty. , 

La Madonna deUa Campagna, of 
a somewhat unusual style, has pic- 
tures by Soaliano and Pordenone. 

St Giovanni in Canale boasts 
two great paintings by Landi and 
Camuccini. 

The Farnese Palace, called also 
the citadel, is in the corso, and the 
finest in Placenza, although but one 
side is complete ; the first stone 
was laid in 1558 — Vignola was the 
architect. 

The Municipal Palace (built in 



the thirteenth centurjr), the hospi- 
tal, and the theatre, are ailwonyb^f 
of a great city. ;. .■ > 

The principal place is accounted 
one of the most beautiful in Italy. 
In its centre are the bronze eques- 
trian statues of Alessandro Farnese 
and his son Eanuccio ; these fine 
statues are of colossal dimensions, 
and the stately marble pedestals are 
set ofl'with appropriate bas-reliefs, 
also in bronze. The artist was 
Francisco Mocchi, of Monte varchL 

There is a noble bridge over the 
Trebbia, about a mile from the 
gate of San Antonio ; it is com'- 
posed of twenty -two grand arches. 

Game is very abundant in the 
neighbouring valleys, which also 
yield a rich harvest to the botanist 
and entomologist. 

The ruins of the ancient city of 
Yelleia, overwhelmed by an ava- 
lanche or a volcanic eruption, are 
well deserving of examination ; lit- 
tle progress has been made in clear- 
ing them, though they were disc<j- 
vered in 1760. The most interest- 
ing articles recovered are to be seen 
in the museum at Parma. 

The well-known Roman road, 
called the Via Emilia, formed by 
Emilius Lepidus about the middle 
of the sixth century of the Roman 
era (from the foundation of the 
city), is pursued on leaving Placenza, 
and through the whole route. To 
the left of the way is -the territory 
known as 

Lo Stato Pallavicino, once a small 
principahty subject to the family :of ^ 
that name ; their principal rest- 
dence was in Busseto, to which 
the sojoiu'u of Charles V gave the 
dignity of a city ; here that Em- 
peror held his well-known interview 
with Pope Paul III (Alessandro Far- 
nese) ; a crowd of princes, cardinals, 
generals, and diplomatists, then gave 
brilliancy to this now obscure re- 
treat. 

Corie Meiygiore, a pretty little 
viUage, is still the property of the 



PARMA.— ROUTE 105. HISTORY OF PARMA, 



553 



PallaTicini family ; it is, moreover, 
the abode of many descendants 
from the j'ounger or illegitimate 
branches of that princel}^ house, who 
are now sunk in abject poverty ; 
such vicissitudes are not very im- 
common in Lombardy. 

Bourg St Donnino (in the direct 
route), with a population of 4.000, 
is on the torrent Stirone. Here the 
Pallavicini had a castle ; the mo- 
nastery of St Colombo was destroyed 
by Frederick II, but the city still 
retains some remarkable edifices, 
and an old cathedral. It is the 
birthplace of the Abbe Benedetto 
Bachini. 

Castel Guelfo, on the left bank of 
the Taro, was reared by the Guelphs 
in consequence of their rivals having 
buUt the similar castle of the Gi- 
bello at no great distance. Beyond 
it a fine ncAv bridge flung across the 
Taro, by order of the present arch- 
duchess, gives access to 

PARMA. 

Hotels : X' Ecrevisse, and Le Paon. 
Population, 36,000. In a rich and 
highly-cultivated plain, on both 
sides of the river Parma, which is 
commanded by tlu-ee bridges, stands 
the city of that name. Built on the 
Via Emilia, it is of remote anti- 
quity ; 148 years before our era it 
was made a Roman colony. In the 
days of the triumvirate it was ex- 
posed to great cruelties and blood- 
shed by the partisans of Mark An- 
tony. Augustus, however, in re- 
compense, afterwards draughted 
into it a colony to add to its num- 
bers and prosperity, and it then 
assumed the name of the colony of 
Julius Augustus. The fate of Par- 
ma was no exception to the general 
lot of the Italian cities. After the 
fall of the western empire it became 
the prey of the barbarians. It was 
constituted a republic after the 
peace of Constance, but drew upon 
itself the anger of Frederick H for 
its adherence to the Guelphic party. 



That emperor laid siege to Parma 
in 1247, and met witli a spirited 
resistance ; he had recourse to a 
strange procedure ; he built ano- 
ther city at a little distance, and 
gave it the name of Victoria, in an- 
ticipation of his assured conquest ; 
but his antagonists had received 
strong reinforcements, and to 
escape by one grand blow the suf- 
ferings inevitable to a prolonged 
and stubborn siege, they feU so 
vigorously and unexpectedly on the 
imperial army that it was hope- 
lessly routed, nor was it without 
difficulty that Frederick himself, 
along with a few horsemen, accom- 
plished his escape. His treasures 
and the whole baggage of his army 
became the spoil of the brave citi- 
zens, who did not leave one stone 
upon another in the new city of 
Victoria. 

After this event (1248) the Par- 
mesans, of tlieir own accord, placed 
the city under the protection of the 
sovereign pontifi", but this measure 
did not prevent mad and untiring 
factions from oppressing Parma, 
and it passed rapidly under the 
sway of nine successive dynasties, 
followed by submission to the 
French, the Spaniards, and the 
Popes Julius II, Leo X, and Paul 
in. Paul gave it to his son, Pietro 
Farnese, whose descendants held it 
until there was a failure of heirs 
male, when Philip V of Spain, who 
had married Elizabeth Farnese, 
came into possession of Parma, into 
which his son, Don Carlos, made a 
solemn entry. Five years later 
that prince, having made the con- 
quest of Naples, ceded Parma to 
the house of Austria, who retained 
it until 1748, to yield it anew to 
the Spaniards, after a war of seven 
years. At the dismemberment of 
Napoleon's kingdom of Italy it was 
disposed of as we have stated in 
the account of Placenza. 

Parma, the residence of the 
-court, the seat of a bishopric, and 



554 NORTHEEX ITALY. — EOtTE 105. FARMA. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 



of the highest tribunals of the 
duchy, ranks with the principal 
cities of the second order. The 
streets and places are, with some 
exceptions, spacious and airy ; the 
churches are numerous and beau- 
tiful. 

La Madonna della Steccata, al- 
though of the early part of the 
sixteenth century, has a very 
modern appearance. It is in the 
form of a Greek cross, its beauti- 
ful cupola in the centre. The 
grand altar piece of Moses, in 
fresco, is by Erancisco Mazzuola 
(Parmegiano). In 1823 a vault 
was formed in this church for the 
burial place of the dukes of Parma. 

The Cathedral is of great but 
undetermined antiquity ; it is 
known, however, that it was splen- 
didly restored at the beginning of 
the twelfth century, a restoration 
wrongly attributed to the Countess 
Matilda. This church is an admir- 
able specimen of earlier ecclesias- 
tical architecture. More than 
twenty artists have adorned its 
walls and ceilings — the vault of the 
cupola was painted entirely by 
Correggio. 

The Baptistery, founded in 1169, 
is a small octagonal church of 
Veronese marble, with splendid 
columns. This foundation also has 
been liberally and erroneously 
given to the Countess Matilda. 

St John the Evangelist may well 
command admiration, for it con- 
tains the early labours of Correggio, 
the frescoes of Parmegiano, and the 
paintings of Gottesalli and Francia. 

The Churches of St Antonio, 
Annunziata, St Giuseppe, St Eoc- 
co, St Paulo, and St Sepolcro, are 
in many respects as interesting as 
those more especially indicated. 

The Ducal Palace is a mass of 
incongruous buildings ; in it is the 
library of 60,000 volumes and 2,000 
very precious MSS., especially those 
in Hebrew, collected by the Abbe 
Rossi, and presented by the arch- 



duchess. The engavings, of differ- 
ent kinds, are 60,000. 

Parma, which once boasted a 
distinctive school of painting, can 
now boast of her 

Academy of Fine Arts, distin- 
guished, not for the number of its 
pictures (which is far from consi- 
derable), but for the number of its 
master-pieces : ' St Jerome,' a 
' Madonna,' the ' Descent from the 
Cross,' the 'Martyrdom of many 
Saints,' the ' Bearing the Cross,' 
and the ' Virgin and Child Jesus,* 
are by Correggio ; * Two Virgins 
and Saviours, in the Clouds,' by 
Guercino ; a ' St Jerome' and a 
' Mary Magdalen,' also attributed 
to Guercino ; several by the three 
Caracci ; a ' Virgin,' by Vandyke ; 
the ' Five Saints,' by Raphael ;' the 
' Christ placed in the Cave,' by 
Andreo del Sarto (another copy by 
the original artist is in ihe gallery 
at Florence) ; ' Christ bearing the 
Cross,' by Titian. In this academy 
are also museums of medals and of 
antiquities. At the end of the pic- 
ture gallery is the colossal marble 
statue of Maria Louisa, by Canova. 

The great Farnese Theatre is a 
very fine and curious structure, for 
it is built entirely of wood, on the 
model of a Roman amphitheatre, 
and holds 9,000 spectators. It was 
erected by Ranuccio I, in 1618, and 
opened the following year. Aleotti 
was the architect. This theatre 
had fallen into grievous dilapida- 
tion until the archduchess devoted 
an annual sura to its preservation 
and repairs. She has also built a 
comparatively small but very ele- 
gant theatre near the Farnese. 

The University, a very large and 
stately structure, founded in 1412, 
and restored by Ranazzo Farnese, 
counted in 1830 more than a thou- 
sand students. 

Among the remarkable palaces 
are those of Pallavicini, Sanvitate, 
Testa, and Giardino; the last, near 
the city walls, was a maison de 



#ARMA. — ROUTE 105. EEGGIO. 



555 



plaisance of the ancient dukes. It is 
most remarkable for its frescoes by 
Augustino Caracci, Baglioni, and 
Cigliani, and for its very noble 
garden. 

The shambles, market, and ceme- 
tery are the most commendable of 
the modern edifices. 

Parma contains many benevo- 
lent institutions, and four nunne- 
ries. In a building formerly the 
convent of St Paolo, is preserved 
an apartment painted by Correggio, 
with Diana and all the attributes of 
the chace, an unusual subject for a 
convent; another room in the same 
locale is painted, some say by Araldi, 
others by Christopher Caselia. 

The trade of 1 arma in manufac- 
tured goods is very limited, con- 
fined indeed to some silks, hats, 
earthenware, and wax lights. The 
fertility of the neighbourhood en- 
sures an abundant supply of terri- 
torial produce, either for domestic 
consumption or traffic: as the ad- 
joining districts yield wheat, maize, 
barley, beans, peas, hemp, flax, 
great quantities of potash, bitumen, 
and fruits of all kinds. The culture 
of tobacco was very successfully 
pursued, but now prohibited. The 
chief wealth of the country is in 
horned cattle, of a breed between 
the Swiss and Hungarian. The 
Parmesan wool is well known to 
English manufacturers. Abun- 
dance of honey and wax is brought 
from the district of the A pennines. 
The mineral waters of Tabbriauo, 
near the cit}', are fast growing into 
celebrity. 

The road runs through a country 
more fertile than might be expected 
from its vicinity to the rocky and far 
stretching roots of the Apennines. 

St Ilario is the last town in the 
state of Parma. Population 1,400. 

Reggio. — Hotels : La Poste, and Le 
Lys. The population of Reggio, 
which increases rapidly, is now 
16,000. This city owes both its 
origin and aggrandizement to the 



Roman consul so well remembered 
by his Via Emilia. It was a Roman 
colony two centuries before the 
Christian era. It flourished under 
the emperors, was ruled by dukes 
under the Lombard, and counts 
under the Carlovingian, dynasties. 

All but totally destroyed in the 
fourth century, it yet recovered rank 
and influence enough to take part in 
the conditions of the peace of Con- 
stance. When Reggio ceased to be re- 
publican, it passed under the sway of 
the dukes of Ferrara, " the antique 
brood of Este;' it again recovered 
its freedom, but after having been 
subjected by the Correggiaschi, 
Fogliani, Gonzagi, and Visconti, 
it voluntarily resumed its allegi- 
i ance to Ferrara. Here, after his 
victories in 1796, Bonaparte or- 
dered a congress to be held, to 
model the new Italian republic ; a 
solemn farce, solemnly performed. 
By the treaties of 1814 Reggio was 
attached to Modena. 

Reggio, the capital of a most 
fruitful district, is situated on the 
navigable canal of Passone; it is 
the seat of a bishopric, and pos- 
sesses the usual public institutions \ 
is surrounded with thick walls, and 
protected by a citadel ; the streets, 
some of which have piazzas, are 
generally handsome, and contain 
many beautiful churches, beautiful 
from their paintings as well as their 
architecture. 

The Cathedral is the most re- 
markable. The Adam and Eve at 
the entrance, and the superb mau- 
soleum of Bishop Rangoni, are 
from the skilful chisel of Prosper 
Sparo, called II Clemente. 

Wine, silk, hemp, cattle, and 
cheese are the articles of an active 
trade, as well as the other agricul- 
tural produce of the territory, 
formerly much more extensive 
than it now is. 

Many illustrious men owe their 
origin to Reggio and its vicinity; 
the most illustrious are unquesr 



556 



NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 103. MODENA. 



tionably Ariosto and Correggio, 
Eontanesi, the celebrated painter 
of internal decorations, and the 
veritable restorer of that branch of 
art in Italv, was also a native. 

In the vicinity of Reggio, but 
apart from the route, are many 
places requiring a brief notice. 

Brescello, with but 2,000 inhabi- 
tants, is on the right bank of the 
Po ; it was formerly a somewhat 
important city. Here Otto pitched 
his camp when he disputed the em- 
pire with Vitellius, and here he put 
an end to what he accounted a de- 
graded existence when he learned 
his defeat. Brescello suffered greatly 
during subsequent wars ; like more 
famous communities it had its 
series of petty dynasties, ending 
with the house of Este. For a 
length of time it was maintained as 
a military post, but was dismantled 
in 1704. Great store of consular 
coins and of antique inscriptions 
have been found in the environs, 
and published by Muratori and 
Grutero. 

Corregpio, a pretty town, with 
4,000 souls, contains a cathedral, a 
palace of the ancient princes, and 
a seminary ; but its glory consists 
in having given birth to Antonio 
Allegro, called Correggio. 

Cavossa, now a pretty village of 
some 300 occupants, was once a pow- 
erful fort belonging to the family of 
the Countess Matilda. Here that fa- 
mous countess received the Emperor 
Henry IV and Pope Gresrory VII 
(the last pope canonised) in the 
hope of effecting a reconciliation 
between those potentates. Carpi- 
netti was another castle of the 
Countess Matilda, where some of 
her autographs are preserved. 

At Quaro, a small mountain vil- 
lage, are the hot springs, once so 
renowned in Italy as the Balneum 
Aquaticum; they are now utterly 
neglected and forgotten, though 
said to retain most of their original 
properties. 



Scandiano, a village with a castle, 
in which Petrarch was once enter- 
tained with pompous hospitality. 
The naturalist Spallanzani was 
born in this place. In the vicinage 
are quarries of sulphur and foun- 
tains of saline and bitter waters. 
Millstones and agates are found 
along the Tresinaro. 

St Maurizio ( in the direct route) 
is known to the Italian scholar as 
the scene of Ariosto's relaxations in 
the house of the Maleguzzi. 

Rubiera encloses 2,000 souls — it 
is on the Secchia In its castle died 
miserably, in 1409, the odious Otto 
Terzi, one of the most detestable of 
the host of petty tyrants who were 
the bane of Italy. 

Marzaqlia is the first village en- 
countered after quitting the Eiggian 
boundary at Rubiera and entering 
within the Modenese. 



MODENA. 

Hotels: StMarc,waAL'Italie. Po- 
pulation, 27.000. Modena occupies 
the left bank of the Secchia and the 
right bank of the Panaro. The 
surrounding plain is fertile, and 
the air has lost much of its ancient 
humidity. This city is mentioned 
by historians not only as existing 
in the year of Rome 536, but as a 
walled " town of great strength. 
Livy relates that the city and the 
country round about belonged to 
the Gauls, who leagued themselves 
with the Insubrians to humble the 
Roman power ; these allies accord- 
ingly resisted the establishment of 
the colonies at Placenza and Cre- 
mona, but the soldiers of the repub- 
lic siirprised Modena and strength- 
ened it against its recent masters, 
who were driven back by the prator 
Manlius The city was mixed up 
in the civil wars between the death 
of Julius Caesar and the partition 
of the world among the triumvirs. 
Towards the close of the fourth 
century Modena had lost its ancient 



MODENA. — ROUTE 105. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 



557 



splendour, and at the invasion of the eleventh century. This church 
Maximus was entirely ruined. St i is fronted with marble, nor does its 
Ambrose, in his epistle to Faustinus, architecture manifest those freaks 
describes it as the carcase of a so common in later Gothic ; it dif- 
city. In 590 it was taken by the fers also in another important par- 
Lombards, retaken by the forces ticular — aU the arches, excepting 



of the eastern emperor, from whom 
Agiluif tore it in the eighth century. 
It was afterwards ruled by counts, 
but their power was not of heredi ■ 
tary transmission. After the death 
of the Countess Matilda, in 1115, 
this mode of government ceased. 
Modena, with the other cities, was 
recognized as a repubhc at the peace 
of Constance, nor does its after his- 



those in the vault of the three 
j naves, are semicircular. Tirabos- 
chi thought they had been assimi- 
lated to the modem form, on some 
occasion of extensive repairs ; but 
this could not be the case, for all 
the windows, and they are very nu- 
merous, are semicircular. It is 
more probable that this church re- 
mained long unfinished, or with 



tory difier materially from that of i temporary boardings (so often the 



the other cities; its factions were 
styled Agioni and Grasolfi, instead 
of Guelph and Ghibeline, and it went 
through its course of party strifes, 
and small tyrants, until, in 1288, 
Obizzo II, of Este, was proclaimed 
Lord of Modena. It was created a 
duchy about 1452. It is now, along 
Mth Reggio, ^c, the appurtenance 
of Francis IV, an Austrian arch- 
duke, in right of his mother, Maria 
Beatrix, the last of the house of 

Este. -;':'j:'- . 

Modena is t^e J©sidence of the 
court, and the seat of the supreme 
tribunals. It was anciently sur- 
rounded with walls, and flanked 
with towers, but its citadel is now 
converted into the ducal palace. Its 
streets, as is generally the case in 
the towns along the Via Emilia, 
are paved with snaall pebbles, while 
in most of them footpaths or piazzas 
give space and shelter to the pedes- 
trians. 

The Ducal Palace, built from the 
designs of Bartolomeo Avanzini, 
the Roman, is a very stately pile, 
especially since t-he present duke 
has completed and adorned it in 
several parts. It possesses a very 
superior gallery of paintings. 

The Cathedral, where lie the 
mortal remains of the protector of 
the city, St Geminiano, is a noble 
temple, commenced at the close of 



case in Italy), and that the varia- 
tion in style indicates a long inter- 
val between its commencement and 
completion. 

Near the cathedral rises a great 
tower, apparently of the twelfth 
century ; it is of prodigious height, 
and is vulgarly called the Garland. 

The other churches ranking after 
the cathedral are St Dominico, St 
Vincenzio, St Francisco, St Au- 
gustino, St Bartolomeo, and St 
Pietro. 

The Library of Este contains 
100,000 volumes and 3,000 MSS^ 
some of them of the classics, others 
splendidly illuminated. Among 
the librarians are some very famous 
names — Jacopo CanteUi, the geogra^ 
pher ; the Abbe Baccliini ; the 
learned and indefatigable Mura- 
tori, who filled the office for fifty 
years ; Zaccharia, Tiraboschi, and 
Granelli. Annexed to this institu- 
tion is the 

Museum, in which, independently 
of 26,000 antique medals, is a very 
rich collection exclusively Greek. 

The secret ducal archives form 
one of the most pecuhar establish- 
ments of the kind, and have ren- 
dered at least one very important 
service to history and literature, in 
supplying Muratori with a crowd 
oi facts illustrative of ancient times 
and manners. 

G 2 



558 



NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 105. MODENA. 



Modena, moreover, possesses an 
astronomical observatory, a house 
of refuge, a lapidary museum fuU 
of inscriptions and sarcophagi, a 
civil and military hospital, with the 
adjuncts of an anatomical theatre, 
and a foundhng hospital ; an uni- 
versity, an academy of fine arts, 
the college of nobles, the institute 
of St Paolo, where a hundred girls 
of low condition are reared gratui- 
tously ; the institutes of the Ber- 
nardini, and the Filippini, of the 
deaf and dumb, &c. 

There are two theatres, that of 
the court and the popular one. 

The promenades are extensive 
and agreeable. The ducal garden, 
open to the public at stated hours, 
is one of the most frequented. 

Every Monday a very large cattle 
market is held. The district is in 
general very fertile, and supplies the 
city with the staple of its trade — 
sUk, cattle, wines, and brandies. 

The fountains are interesting 
from the scientific principles evinced 
in their formation ; they are very 
old, and prove that Artesian wells 
have been, for a very long time, 
known in Italy. It is odd enough 
that a discovery, so invaluable in 
many locaUties, lay so long unap- 
propriated. 

Among the most remarkable 
places in the duchy of Modena, 
the small city of Mirandola, from 
its historical and poetical celebrity, 
is best known to the Enghsh reader; 
but we must confine our notices to 
a few places in the plain. 

Finale, a city with 6,000 souls, is 
built on several little islands formed 
by the meandering branches of the 
Panaro ; as its name mtimates, it 
occupies the frontier points of the 
Modenese, Ferrarese, and Bolognese 
territories. 

Sassuolo is an old town of not 
more than 3,000 inhabitants ; its 
citadel is now a fine country house. 
Before this place became incorpo- 
rated in the dominions of the house 



of Este it was not too insignificant 
to have independent princes of its 
own ; the last died in 1417. 

Nonantola, with a population 
equal to that of Sassuolo, is best 
known from its stately abbey, 
founded about 1,100 years ago, 
and celebrated for its opulence, its 
library, the variety of its fortunes, 
and its history by the erudite 
Tiraboschi. The abbey church, 
the seminary, and a strong tower 
of observation, built by the Bolog- 
nese in 1307, are all remarkable 
objects for so small a town. 

Near Sorbara, a very pretty vil- 
lage, with a population of 1,300, 
the Countess Matilda defeated Ar- 
rigo in 1084. 

Spilamberto, a village of equal 
size and population, is on the left 
bank of the Panaro. Its old citadel 
and well-adorned churches give it 
an air of antiquity sufiiciently inte- 
resting. 

Vignola is the birthplace of the 
architect Jacopo Barozzi,, better 
known as Vignole, and of the lite- 
rary giant, Muratori, who was 
indeed "fit to grapple with whole 
libraries." It possesses an old castle, 
and a palace attributed to Yignole. 
The great high road of commu- 
nication with Tuscany (called by 
Alfieri a poetic highway) is a work 
not unworthy the palmy days of 
Eome herself; it was opened by 
Duke Francis III, and extends 
above sixty miles. 

The direct route, along the Via 
EmiHa, is now resmned. 

St Amhrogio, a village on the Pa- 
naro ; — its solid bridge was built 
by Hercules III. In its earlier ex- 
istence St Ambrogio was regarded 
as a position of consequence. An 
old bridge and some towers were 
under the guard of the order of 
Knights Templars. The other side 
of the Panaro is the Bologiiese ter- 
ritory. 

At Casfelfranco, it is asserted, 
Mark Antony suffered his defeat 



ArSTRtA. — ROTJTE 105. VENICE. HOTELS. 



559 



liy the Consul Hirtius. This place 
is also called Fort Urban, from the 
fortress built there by Pope Urban 
VIII. 

Sammoggia has its name from the 
river. From this small village the 
road runs through a smiling country 
to Bologna, described in Route 23. 
The remainder of the route to Venice 
described in Route 20, page 116. 

VENICE 

Being now a free port, luggage on 
entering is not noticed, but on leav- 
ing it is slightly examined. 

Venice and Vicenza Raihvay. — 
This line of Railway was opened in 
January, 1846. The, distance, 41 
English miles, is traversed in two 
hours and a half, including stoppages 
at the principal stations, of which 
there are six ; namely, Nestre, Ma- 
rano, Dolo, Ponti di Brenta, Padua, 
Pojano. Fares, from Venice to 
Vicenza, first class, 8 lire Austrian 
25 cents. ; second class, 6 lire 50 
cents.; third class, 3 lire, 75 cents. 
From Padua to Vicenza, first class, 

3 lire 75 cents. ; second class, 3 
lire; third class, 1 lire 75 cents. 
From Venice to Padua, first class, 

4 lire 50 cents. ; second class, 3 lire 
50 cents.; third class, 2 lire. All 
luggage is charged for according to 
weight and distance. The trains 
leave three times a day — in the 
morning, mid-day, and evening, ac- 
cording to the season. 

On arrival at Venice, omnibus gon- 
dolas are in waiting to convey tra- 
vellers and their luggage to their des- 
tination; they also leave the Place 
St. Marco one hour before the depar- 
ture of the railway gondolas. The 
fare each way, with luggage, is 1 zr. 

Hotels. — The principal inns in 
Venice, having been at one time 
splendid palaces, though now sadly 
fallen, are yet well adapted to the 
purposes to which they are applied. 
They all possess a land and water 
entrance ; the three best, the Royal, 
Europe, and Leone Bianco, are 
situEited on the Grand Canal. 



Hotel Royal, formerly the palace 
Bernardo (better known as the Hotel 
Daniel, the name of a former pro- 
prietor), is most conveniently situated 
near the Place St. Mark, which can 
be walked to in about two minutes — 
the side or water entrance convenient 
for landing from or taking a gondola. 
There is a table d'hote every day, at 
six o'clock in summer and four in 
autumn and winter. This is a very 
comfortable, well- managed house. 

Hotel de VEurope, originally the 
palace Griustiniani, a large esta- 
blishment, containing sixteen saloons 
and 117 bedrooms, with land and 
water entrance direct on the Grand 
Canal. A table d'hote every day at 
four o'clock, 3 frs. The apartments 
have been newly furnished, and 
fitted with handsome iron bedsteads. 
The charges are the same as at the 
other principal houses; the attend- 
ance and arrangements are much 
improved under a new management. 

Hotel Lion Blanc {Leone Bianco), 
which has been established since 
1814, is also upon the Grand Canal, 
in view of the celebrated Rialto, 
close to the post office, with water 
and land entrances. 

The Grande Bretagne, the Inghil- 
ferra, Luna, <fec. &c., are second 
and third-rate houses — cheap, but 
nasty. 

" We reached the celebrated city 
of Venice. Half-rotten piles sup- 
ported blocks of marble richly carved, 
serving as landing places ; the walls, 
out of the perpendicular, seemed 
nodding to each other across the 
narrow canals. Through one of 
these we pushed on rapidly, turning 
several sharp corners in succession 
from canal to canal, which resemble 
narrow lanes under water, with 
scarcely any dry communication 
from house to house. A few gon- 
dolas passed us. No noisy trade 
was heard, no cries, no rattling of 
carriages, of course ; not so much as 
the sound of a footstep disturbed the 
universal stillness. "We might have 
fancied ourselves in the catacombs 



>60 



NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 105. VENICE. 



of all the fislies of the Adriatic, 
rather than in a town inhabited by 
men, but for the few heads we saw 
here and there popping out of dark 
holes to look at us. Emerging at 
last from the maze of narrow canals, 
we found ourselves in the great one 
which traverses the city in an easy 
curve, the very line of beauty, and 
rendered peculiarly striking from the 
circumstance of most of the build- 
ings on each side being marble 
palaces. No quays, no terraces, no 
landing place before them, they 
plunge at once into the briny deep, 
which, however, is here very shallow. 
Splendid marble stairs with marble 
balustrades lead up at once from the 
water to the hall door. There it was 
that crowds of gondelieri, carrying 
torches at night,, used formerly to 
draw up, as elsewhere carriages and 
horses. 

" We landed thus in style, and 
were ushered into one of these mag- 
nificent edifices,— sadly fallen indeed 
from hs former greatness, being now 
the albergo. Through a lower hall 
of immense size and paved with mar- 
ble, we reached the double flight of 
the grand staircase, the walls adorned 
with fresco paintings, and the marble 
balustrade beautifully carved. The 
landing place was another immense 
hall or gallery, divided by the stair- 
case. These princely antechambers, 
each sixty-nine feet by thirty-two, 
with ceilings proportionably high, 
gilt, and painted, and adorned with 
crystal lustres, gave entrance to the 
various apartments by a number of 
doors entering into them. 

" Every preconceived idea of Ve- 
nice, it has been justly remarked, as 
a city or as a society, belongs to the 
imagination; and on beholding it 
the illusion is embodied rather than 
dispelled. It is one of the few places 
that, do not disappoint the expec- 
tation, because, if some visonary an- 
ticipations are dispelled by the reality, 
there is still strangeness enough, 
and novelty, and gorgeousness to 
sustain the mind at the same pitch 



of excitement. The moral interest of 
the scene comes in aid of the impres- 
sion produced by the picture ; and in 
gazing upon the majestic combination 
of former splendour and actual decay, 
' we feel that we are reading a history .' 

"'In Venice, Tasso's echoes are no more, 
And silent rows the songless gondolier ; 
Her palaces are crumbling to the shore, 
And music meets not always now the ear : 
Those days are gone. But beauty still is 

here. 
States fall ; arts fade ; but Nature does 

not die, 
Nor yet forget how Venice once was dear. 
The pleasant place of all festivity, 
The revel of the earth, the masque of 

Italy.'" 

Such a place ought to be described 
in poetry, and we feel almost re- 
luctant to descend to the details of 
the cicerone. Something between 
poetry and prose may be thought to 
characterize the follow^ing descrip- 
tion of the fairy city, which has 
been pronounced by those who have 
visited Yeniceto be the most correct 
and graphic that has appeared, and 
the only one that conveys an ade- 
quate idea of the strangeness of the 
scene. 

"Venice was always an unintel- 
ligible place, arid is still unintelli- 
gible. I knew before that it was 
situated on many islands ; that its 
highways were canals ; that gon- 
dolas were its hackney coaches ; 
that it had St. Mark's, and the 
Rialto, and the doge's palace ; and 
I know no more now. It was always 
a dream, and will continue a dream 
for ever. A man must be born in, or 
live long enough to becorre endeared 
to it, before he will either under- 
stand or feel at home in Venice. It 
is a glorious place for cripples, for 
I know of no use that a gentleman 
has for his limbs ; they are crutches 
to the bed-ridden, spectacles to the 
blind. You step out of your gon- 
dola into your hotel, and out of 
your hotel into a gondola ; and this 
is all the exertion that is becomingc 
The Piazza di St. Marco and the 
adjoining quay are the only places 
where you can stretch a limb ; and 



AUSTRIA. — ROUTE 105. VENICE. 



561 



if you desire to do so, they carry 
you there, and bring you home 
again. To walk requires predeter- 
mination, and you order your gon- 
dola, and go on purpose. To come 
to Venice is to come on board ; and 
it only differs from ship-board, that 
there is no danger of sea-sickness. 
The Canale Grande is nearly 300 
feet wide. Other canals are wide 
enough, but the widest street in the 
city is not more than ten or twelve 
feet from house to house, and the 
majority do not exceed six or eight. 
To wind and jostle through these 
irregularities is mtolerable, and all 
but impossible ; no one thinks of 
doing so, and who would that had 
a gondola at command ? The gon- 
dola is aU that is dreamy and de- 
Hghtful ; its black funereal look in 
high imaginative contrast with its 
internal luxury. You float on with- 
out sensible motion ; its cushions 
were stolen from Mammon's cham- 
bers, ' blown up, not stuffed.' You 
seat yourself upon one of them, 
and sink, sink, sink, as if it were 
all air ; you throw your leg upon 
another, and if you have occasion 
for it, which is rare at Venice, 
must hunt after it — ^lost, sunk. 

" Travellers, and Canaletti's 
Views, which are truth itself, give 
you a correct idea of Venice, but 
no idea of the strangeness of a first 
visit. It is not merely that there 
are canals and gondolas, but it is 
all canal and gondola. I know 
nothing to hken it to but a large 
fleet wind bound. You order your 
boat, and row round, and all that 
are at leisure do the same. St 
Mark's, of an evening, that attracts 
aU in the same direction, is but a 
baU on board the ' Commodore.' If 
you laugh at this as extravagant 
you will be right, but it is only ex- 
travagant because there is nothing 
real to compare with it. The fleet 
wind-bound is truth itself, and you 
have only to change the ' Kedentore ' 
into the ' Spitfire,' and the ' Salute ' 



into the ' Thunderer ' bomb, and it 
is real in feeling. Everything is in 
agreement with this. If the com- 
mon people want a peach or a 
pomegranate, they hail a boat ; for 
the very barrow women (if you will 
keep me to the reahty, and drive me 
to the absurdity of such phrases) go 
floating about, and their cry is that 
half song, with the long dwelling on 
the final syllable, with which sailors 
caU 'Boat a-hoy.' With all this 
there is no place you would so much 
like to spend a winter at, and be- 
cause of aU this ; it is so strange, 
new, and perplexing. The Vene- 
tians are said to be the most delight- 
ful people, and at Venice is said to 
be the pleasantest society in Europe. 
It is impossible to doubt it. Society 
is the sole purpose for which they 
come here. They live on the con- 
tinent, and Venice is but a huge 
pleasure house. 

" A stranger may soon delight in 
Venice ; but I doubt if he could 
ever feel at home. Every hour 
would be a contradiction to his 
whole past existence. There 
must be thousands here, who never 
saw a hill, or a wood, or an ear 
of corn growing, or a vineyard, or 
a green field ; or heard a bird sing, 
except in a cage ; or slaked their 
thirst, even in this thirsty climate, 
at a spring-head, or seen its waters 
bubbling from out the earth : 
spring-water, like other luxuries, is 
an importation. 

" Everything at Venice is dream- 
hke ; for what is more so, than to 
walk on the Eialto, where Antony 
spat on the Jew's gaberdine ?--to 
stand where Othello addressed the 
assembled senate ? — ^to lose your- 
self in search of old Priuh's palace ? 
And for realities, go to St Mark's 
on an evening ; see its fine square 
in aU its marble beauty ; the domes 
and minarets of its old church ; 
the barbaric gloom of the doge's 
palace ; its proud towering Cam- 
panile ; look upon the famous Co- 



562 



NORTHEEK ITAI-Y. — ROUTE 105. VENICE. 



rinthian horses, and think of their 
emigration, — on the winged lion of 
the Piraeus ; walk in the illumina- 
tion of its long line of cafes ; ob- 
serve the variety of costume, — ^the 
thin veil covering the pale Vene- 
tian beauty, — the Turks with 
their beards and caftans, and long 
pipes, and chess - playing, — the 
Greeks with their scull-caps and 
richly -laced jackets ; look on this, 
and believe it real ; and ever after 
put faith in the Thousand and 
One Tales. 

"But Venice is in everything 
delightful. It is the most pic- 
turesque city in Europe, and full of 
character and variety. In ail its pa- 
laces and public buildings, you may 
read ' sermons in stones.' The 
history of Venice is written upon 
her front, from the rude, massy, 
frowning architecture of barbarism 
and power, to modern elegance and 
imbecility." — Simond. 

The situation of Venice in the 
midst of lagunes would seem to 
render the atmosphere humid and 
vapoury ; but according to Dr 
Thouvenel, in his 'Climat dTtalie,' 
the air is continually renewed by 
winds from the east and south-east, 
and the mephitic gas generated 
there is thus carried off. The 
learned Venetian, Dr Valeriano 
Brera, declares it mild, even nou- 
rishing, without being oppressive, 
and even less humid than that of 
Milan. The saline emanations from 
the lagimes create an atmosphere 
peculiarly favourable to persons at- 
tacked with pulmonary complaints, 
or having scrofulous, tuberculous, 
or rickety constitutions ; and who 
will also find the sea baths of this 
city very efficacious. These baths 
may be taken at all seasons ; they 
owe their medicinal qualities to the 
sHme and sea weeds of the lagunes, 
particularly to the sphoeroceus con- 
fervoides, on account of the extra- 
ordinary quantity of gelatinous 
substance it contains, and which is 



easily extracted ; it grows abun- 
dantly in winter, even in the Grand 
Canal, and may be always had 
fresh. 

The excellency of the ichthyolo- 
gic diet, particularly of the oysters 
and celebrated pidocchi, the excur- 
sions in the famed gondolas, in 
which, for two or three hours, 
enveloped with marine vapours, 
the invalid may be gently rocked 
in the eye of the sun, miraculously 
second the effect of the baths and 
climate : the pleasures of Venetian 
life and of society complete it. 
Some periodical fevers, common to 
marshy situations on the shores of 
the Atlantic and Mediterranean, 
appear dm-ing summer only. The 
plagues which have ravaged Venice 
have not been more disastrous than 
those of Milan or Florence, and she 
suffered less from the cholera than 
either of the other large cities of 
Italy. The south-east wind, sur- 
named by the Venetians the " Man- 
tello dei poveri," softens the rigour 
of the cold during winter. The 
climate is restorative to aged per- 
sons and to children, but ajjpears 
less suitable to those of a middle 
age, and strangers sometimes com- 
plain of intestinal irregularities. 
The health of the inhabitants is 
generally very good ; many attain 
an advanced age, and there are 
some centen aires amongst them. 

To the epicure Venice offers 
many varied and agreeable treats. 
The horned cattle of Styria, reared 
for market only, furnish meat of a 
superior quality. The exquisite 
veal from Chioggia is better than 
that of the peninsula. LaPolesine 
di Rovigo furnishes a number of 
fine fat poultry The vicinity of 
the maremma renders game excel- 
lent and cheap. Snipes, in winter, 
cost 5 French sous each. Good 
hares. The rabbit is disdained and 
refused by all. 

The Adriatic is deservedly cele- 
brated for its fish, and pays an 



AUSTRIA. ROUTE 105. VEKICE. WINES. 



563 



abundant and delicate tribute to its 
queen. If the Venetians, ingeni- 
ously remarks Addison, were block- 
aded on all sides, they would, in 
some measure, escape being fa- 
mished through the immense 
quantity of fish the sea is stocked 
with, and which may be even 
caught in the streets. Venice thus 
forms a natural depot that very 
few cities can boast of. The most 
noted are the magnificent roach 
(triglia), the finest of Adriatic fish; 
the turbot (rombo), praised by 
Boccaccio in his remarkable letter 
to the prior of the SS. Apostles at 
Florence, containing a spirited de- 
scription of the house, profusion, and 
manner of living cf a great noble 
of the time ; the sardelle, surnamed 
ortolans of the Atlantic, generally 
broiled and eaten without season- 
ing, cost 2 sous a score ; the sole 
(sfoglie) ; the small fish sacchette ; 
the gudgeon (paganello di mar), 
costing only 5 sous a pound ; the 
ling (ombrino), sometimes weighing 
40 lbs. each, and the tunny (tonno), 
50 lbs., but generally from 10 to 
40 lbs. This fish is taken from 
August to November. To have it 
always of good quality, and to 
avoid the danger which may arise 
from its putrefaction, the police ex- 
amine the boats that bring it in, 
particularly if they have been 
detained by the sirocco, and should 
the fish be but slightly affected, it 
is thrown into the sea. The large 
fat oysters of the arsenal cannot be 
eaten by the dozen. When cooked 
and served with herbs a la Veni- 
tienne, they are very agreeable and 
digestible. Notwithstanding their 
horrid name, the pidocchi (sea lice, 
a kind of savoury mussel) of the 
arsenal are highly esteemed; they 
are rather rare, and are taken in 
the months of June and July only ; 
one is rather surprised, in such a 
place, to pay so dear for them. 
Delicious mullet swarm in the mire 
of the canals at Chioggia, and are 



largely salted. If eaten too abun- 
dantly, this fish, although tender 
and good, sometimes occasions 
headaches, and even fevers. The 
roes, pressed, salted, and dried, 
make a kind of caviar called bot- 
targa, which is highly esteemed, 
and is served with oil and lemon. 
The greater part of these exquisite 
fish, with others, as the roach, 
sardine, sea louse, turbot, mackerel, 
lobster, and particularly the oyster^ 
have also the merit of making a 
very excellent soup, highly salutary 
for invalids. 

Quantities of fine fruit from the 
hills of Este, Monselice, and Mon- 
tagnana 

Wines. — Care should be taken in 
choosing wines at Venice, as they 
are frequently adulterated. The 
sailors also take their tithe whilst 
bringing it from terra ferma, and 
fill the cask up with water from 
the lagunes, which, although agree- 
able to the taste, and something 
like Seltzer water, is very insalu- 
brious ; to avoid this, the rich and 
cautious send a trusty servant to 
keep an eye on the wine during 
its passage. The best growths of 
French and Spanish vineyards may, 
however, be had at a cheap rate, on 
account of the free port. In the 
cafe real Cyprus may be bought 
for 5 to 10 sous a glass ; ordinary, 
.34 sous a bottle, and first quality, 
5 fr. The other good wines are 
Val Policella and Piccolit of Cone - 
gliano and Friuli. 

Cafes. — Coffee, in small cups, is 
perpetually taken at Venice, par- 
ticularly at Florian's, in the Place 
St Mark. This cafe is frequented 
without inconvenience, and enli- 
vened by the presence of ladies ; 
open nearly all night and in all 
seasons. 

Furnished lodgings are dear, 
and rather neglected. They cost 
200, 250, and 400 frs. a month. The 
Grand Canal should be chosen, par- 
ticularly in summer, on account of 



564 



NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 105. VENICE. CONVp:TANCES. 



the enjoyment afforded every even- 
ing in this liquid corso. 

In October, 1844, apartments 
consisting of three rooms and a 
kitchen, on the Grand Canal, cost 
300 zrs. a month, or rather 10 zrs. 
a day ; the custom of the place is so 
to charge. Apartments in the less 
fashionable parts of Venice may be 
had at 5 zrs. a day, or 150 a month ; 
attendance, except making beds, is 
seldom included; when such is not 
the case it is advisable to hire a man 
servant, who will, by a judicious 
arrangement being made with him, 
boil the pot and drive the carriage, 
i. e. row a gondola, for from 2 to 

3 zrs. a day, finding himself — from 
his employer's larder. 

' Gondolas may be hired at from 
15 to 20 zrs. a month, the roofs of 
which are unshipped every night 
and placed on trussels in the " mar- 
ble halls ;" and where there are 
several together, the place reminds 
one very much of an undertaker's 
shop. Those making but a short 
stay may hire by the day, hour, or 
course ; the first costs, for one 
fower, 5 zrs.; two rowers, 8 zr.; 
by the hour, first hour, 1 zr.; 
second hour, ^ zr. ; with two 
fowers the fares are double ; a 
course costs the same. 

There is a Reading room in the 
Place St Mark ; the only paper in 
the English language is Galig- 
nani's. The terms are : a month, 

4 zrs. ; fifteen days, 3 2i-s. ; a week, 
2 zrs. 

There are a great many re- 
spectable booksellers in Venice, 
but Messrs Vallardi have the best 
supply of books, maps, &c., useful 
for travellers. 

The Post office is open from 
half-past ten till six ; up to this 
hour letters are received from 
England. The Austrian postage, 
which is optional for a single let- 
ter, is 38 krs. In an adjoining 
office in the same building places 
may be taken for 



Milan, in thirty-six hours, by 
the malle-poste; fare, 46 frs. 

Ferrara, Wednesdays and Saturn- 
days at eight in the evening, cor- 
responding with a diligence for 
Elorence, Eome, &c. ; fare to Flor- 
ence, 20 frs. 25 c. 

Vienna, by malle-poste. at five in 
the morning, in seventy-two hours ; 
fare, 95 frs. 

Trieste, every evening at eight, 
in twenty -four hours ; fare, 30 frs. 
There is another coach ofiice, 
near the Luna hotel, from whence 
conveyances start in every direction, 
at less fares than the malle -postes. 
Steam-packets leave Venice for 
Trieste four times a week, Tues- 
days and Fridays in the morning, 
Wednesdays and Sundays in the 
evening, in from six to eight hours; 
fare, first cabin, 7 fl.; second cabin, 
5fl. 

Ancona, twice a month, the 8th 
and 24th, in twenty to twenty- 
four hours; from Ancona to Venice 
on the 9th and 25th; office in the 
Piazza St Mark. 

Passport office, near the church 
of St Lorenzo, is open from nine 
till four; there strangers reclaim 
their passports, demanded by the 
police on arriving; on receiving it 
signify the name of the city you 
next intend to visit, it will be 
signed accordingly and delivered 
without any fee or any application 
to the English consul ; but get once 
out of the Austrian dominions, and 
everlasting " diveum pocketum." 

The Railway from Mestre to 
Venice, a distance of about eight 
miles, is in a forward state; more 
than one- third is already finished 
(Nov. 1844) and open; and half the 
viaduct across the Lagana is also 
finished: it is expected that th6 
entire line from Padau to Venice 
will be open early in 1846. 

The principal shops are in the 
Piazza St Mark, and Merceria ; 
the latter is a series of crooked 
paved alleys, commencing from the 



AtTSTRiA. — ROtJTii 105. TENICE. PROMENADES. 



565 



clock tower, and extending under 
various names to the bridge of the 
Rialto. the neighbourhood of which 
is now greatly degenerated — the 
few goldsmiths that still inhabit 
this celebrated bridge are vulgarly 
associated with tripe, pork, cab- 
bage, and dried fish shops : beneath 
(not in the water) is the fish 
market. 

Restaurant. — The best I could find 
was that called the Coflee house, 
in Campo Kossoli, opposite the 
house where Canova resided. 

A military band performs three 
times a week in the Place St Mark 
during the summer and autumn 
months, from two till four; on 
Sundays the company is most nu- 
merous; on Mondays the fashion- 
ables go to Lida, an island cele- 
brated for pic-nics. 

Promenades. — The most pleasant 
and indeed the only place in Ve- 
nice where one can stretch their 
limbs is the public garden beyond 
the arsenal; it is a plantation of 
small trees, covering an extent of 
about ten acres, laid out in walks 
and rides ; there is a large horse- 
keeper's establishment, with stalls 
for forty horses, where several are 
kept for the use of those desirous 
of taking equestrian exercise, let 
out at the following prices : by the 
year, 360 Austrian lires; six months, 
180; three months, 90; one week, 
30; by the hour, 4. 

N.B. No deposit is required, as 
the hirer is not likely to gallop ofl" 
with the beast. 

Bankers. — Messrs Tatum and 
Mudie, Grand Canal. Mr Tatum 
is also British consul. 

Shoe-blacks importune one at 
every step, a most unlikely place 
to expect such a trade ; yet it 
seems to flourish, if one may judge 
from the number who, following 
their calling, follow the stranger. 
This is not a very expensive lux- 
ury, as a well-polished boot will 



last your Venetian a week at the 
least. 

Venice is divided into six quar- 
ters, and contains a population of 
about 115,000 inhabitants, located 
in 27,918 houses. There are 112 
religious establishments, though at 
one period there were no less than 
228 ; of bridges, chiefly of marble, 
there are 306 ; and small com- 
municating streets no less than 
2,108, so that a person with the 
bump of locality strongly developed 
may explore the inmost recesses of 
this singular city without the aid ttf 
a gondolier. •'^'^ 

Venice presents one character- 
istic which perhaps has not been 
much noticed or dilated upon : the 
harmony which existed, or seemed 
to exist, between this most extraor- 
dinary city of the waters and its 
most extraordinary government ; 
the strange and sflent tyranny of 
the oligarchy seems consonant with 
deep and stUl canals, ahen to 
clamorous and crowded streets. 
Everything indeed seems to have 
been strange in ancient Venice : 
a republic without the shadow of 
popular rights, and yet with a 
powerless sovereign ; a commercial 
nobihty, and yet the proudest in 
Europe ; often an enlightened go- 
vernment in its foreign relations 
and distant colonies, yet at aU 
times meanly j-ealous of its meanest 
tools : the parallel of dissimilarities 
might be carried much further. 
Certainly, from the time when 
ItaHan fugitives rushed to the 
waters for refuge from the barba- 
rians, and founded Venice in the 
Adriatic, from this time to that of 
its decay, Venice, alike in its his- 
tory or its architecture, is the most 
original city of Europe or the 
world. 

A mere sketch of its history 
would hardly be satisfactory ; nor is 
it necessary, for a host of writers, 
some of them of the highest ge- 



566 



AUSTRIA.— ROUTE 105. VENICE. BASILICA OE ST MARK. 



nius, Shakspeare, Otway, Radcliffe, 
Byron, Cooper, and many others, 
have made Venice familiar to most 
readers. 

It has been said this city may 
be seen in eight days, or may well 
and profitably employ as many 
weeks ; but four days, as given 
below, will be fomid amply "suffi- 
cient. The churches and palaces 
especially noticed are a very few 
out of a great number, selected, not 
in the order m which they can be 
visited, but as most worthy of 
inspection. Fifty-four important 
places may thus be visited, in the 
following order : — 

On the " first day" a gondola is 
unnecessary : — 

1. Piazzaof StMark. 

2. Piazzetta. 

3. Royal Basilica of St Mark. 

4. The Ducal Palace. 

5. The Steeple of St Mark. 

6. The Lodge of the Steeple. 

7. The Three Masts. 

8. Hotel of the Patriarch. 

9. Fagade of the Church of St Basso. 

10. The Clock Tower. 

11. Procuratie Vecchie (the Old Galleries). 

12. Procuratie Nuove (the New ditto), 

now the Royal Palace. 

13. The Mint. 

14. The two Granite Columns. 

15. The Prisons. 

16. The Trevisan Palace. 

17. The Public Gardens 

On the " second day" a gondola 
would be useful, but is not indis- 
pensable : — 

18. Church of St Zacharie. 

19. Greek Clmrch of St George. 

20. Church of St Francis della Vigna. 

21. Royal Arsenal. 

22. Churchof St Martin. 

23. Church of St George Major. 

24. Church of the Redeemer. 

25. Church of St Sebastian. 

In the " third day " a gondola is 
necessary : — 

26. Church of St Mary de Salute. 

27. Academy of Fine Arts. 

28. Pisani Palace. 

29. Barbarigo Palace. 

30. The Rialto. 

31. Bridge of the Rialto. 



32. Camarlinghi Palace. 

33. Ca'.Doro. 

34. Vendramin-Calergi Palace. 

35. Manfrini-Calergi Palace. 

36. Church of St Mary of the Frari. 

37. Churchof St Roch. 

38. Confraternity of St Roch. 

In the " fourth day " a gondola is 
desirable, but not indispensable: — 

39 Church of St Mary of Miracles. 

40. The Colleoni Monument. 

41. Church of St John and St Paul. 

42. Confraternity of St Mark. 

43. Church of St Mary de I'Orto. 

44. Church of St Michael. 

45. Emiliana Chapel. 

46. Crystal manufactures. 

47. Church of St Peter and St Paul. 

48. Church of St Donatius. 

49. Church of St John Chrysostom. 

50. Church of St Saviour 

51. Theatre la Fenice. 

52. Church ofStFantin. 

53. Mansion of Emo Treves. 

54. The Armenian Convent and Church. 

The Basilica of St Marh—This 
majestic temple was commenced in 
976 and finished ia 1071. During 
that period it was under the direc- 
tion of many architects ; and as 
subsequent doges have caused addi- 
tions, or rather additional adorn- 
ments, in the style of their respec- 
tive epochs, in St Mark's may be 
noted the progressive improve- 
ment or deterioration of the arts. 
The basilica is ia the form of the 
Greek cross. The circumference of 
the entire building is 950 Venetian 
feet, with which admeasurement, 
and with each other, the relative 
proportions of the various parts of 
the structure scientifically accord. 
Five hundred colmnns of porphyry, 
serpentiae stone, and marble of 
every country may be counted in 
St Mark's, whUst many of them ex- 
hibit the choicest Greek workman- 
ship. The walls, the pavement, the 
vaulted roofs, are of the costliest 
materials— all, in fine, that is not 
gold, bronze, or mosaic is eastern 
marble. 

The fa§ade (occupying one side 
of the Piazza of St Mark) is a 



ACSTRIA. — ROUTE 105. VEXICE. BASILICA OF ST MARK. 



5e7 



strange but sublime assemblage of 
many kinds of architecture, Greek 
and Arabian predominating. A 
lower and higher range, each with 
five vaulted arches, are divided by 
a balustraded gaUery. 

On the very vestibule the his- 
torical genius of the place may be 
said to manifest itself. Eed marble 
squares indicate the spot where 
Pope Alexander III, in 1177, re- 
ceived the submissive Barbarossa, 
certainly one of the greatest tri- 
umphs of religion, superstition, or 
cultivated intellect (as men of dif- 
ferent creeds may regard it) over 
unenlightened though imperial 
power. From the vestibule three 
gates, inlaid with silver, admit into 
the church, whilst the fa9ade pre- 
sents five bronze gates, one bearing 
the date of 1300. The archi vaults, 
of boldly sculptured marble, appear 
above the greater gate ; a similar 
archivault encloses the great win- 
dow. 

The four far-famed bronze horses, 
with some little remains of their 
original gilding, are in an Ul-selected 
site under the porch window. Of 
these treasures of art the Venetians 
in 1205 despoiled the hippodrome of 
Constantinople, of wliich building 
they were a far more fitting orna- 
ment than of a Christian church ; 
the spoilers, in their turn, yielded 
these horses to the French in 1797, 
and they were returned from Paris 
to Venice in 1815. Cicognara and 
others have endeavoured to prove 
these works Eoman, and as late as 
the reign of Nero ; but it is now 
pretty generally admitted that Mus- 
toxidi has proved them Greek, 
transported from Chio to his capital 
by the Emperor Theodosius II in 
the fifth century. Nor are these 
the only trophies of the conquests 
of the republic its great church dis- 
plays. On the angle near the gate 
of the ducal palace is a group in 
porphyry, brought from Acre in 
the thirteenth century ; its subject 



is stiU matter of controversy. Be- 
fore the church gates, in the same 
locaUty, are two piUars with Coptic 
and hieroglyphic characters, another 
spoil from Acre. 

St Mark's is too vast to be de- 
scribed in detail ; we can but indi- 
cate the more remarkable objects, 
the great perplexity being how to 
select. 

The Mosaics in the difierent 
portions of the vestibule are seven 
in number, of the eleventh cen- 
tury. ' St Mark in pontificals,' the 
' Crucifixion,' and the ' Holy Sepul- 
chre,' by Francisco and Valerius 
Zuccato, designed by Titian in 1545 
and 1 549 ; the ' Resurrection of 
Lazarus,' the 'Interment of the 
Blessed Virgin,' by the Zuccatos, 
after drawings by Pordenone or 
Salviati ; the Evangehsts, eight 
prophets, angels, and doctors, by the 
same artists. 

Within the vaulted arches of the 
lower range are five grand mosaics. 
Two represent the ' Exhumation of 
St Mark from the Tombs of Alex- 
andria,' after the designs of Pietro 
Vecchia, 1650; the 'Last Judg- 
ment,' by Spagna, after Zanchi ; 
the ' Venetian Magistrates render- 
ing honour to the Body of St Mark,' 
by Leopold del Pozzo, after Rizzi, 
1728 ; and the ' Church of St Mark,' 
a work of the sixteenth century, by 
an unknown artist. 

Within the higher range are four 
grand mosaics, all by Gaetano, 
after drawings copied by Maffeo 
Verona from the ancient works 
then renewed ; the subjects are the 
' Descent from the Cross,' the ' Ap- 
pearance of Christ to the Departed,' 
the ' Resurrection,' and the ' Ascen- 
sion.' 

A mosaic in the church, ' Christ 
seated between the Virgin and St 
Mark,' is beheved to be of the eleventh 
century. Another mosaic, of the 
same era, covers the wall opposite 
the gate, opening into the Piazzetta ; 
it depicts the ' Baptism of Christ,' 



568 NORtHEKiir PTALY.— EOtJtE 105. VENICE. BASILICA OF ST MARK. 



and is'aditiired for the warmth of 
its colours. 

In the chapel De Mascoli, are 
three mosaics on the ' History of the 
Virgin,' all by Giamboro (1430), the 
first artist who abandoned the hard 
and dry style of the ancients for 
that of the Vivarinis. 

The altar of the chapel Zeno, ac- 
counted a chef-d'oeuvre, is enriched 
with bronzes and marbles, and with 
pillars, arabesques, and friezes of 
the highest finish, as well as with 
three bronze statues of ' Our Lady 
and the Child Jesus,' ' St John the 
Baptist,' and ' St Peter.' This image 
of Our Lady is called Delia Scarpa, 
from her golden shoe. 

In the chapel of the Baptismal 
Fonts is the grand marble basin 
and bronze lid, with bas-reliefs by 
Titian Minio, of Padua, and Desi- 
derio, of Florence, pupils of Sanso- 
vino, 1545. Above the lid is a very 
fine statue of ' St John the Baptist,' 
in bronze, by Segalla, 1565. 

The oratory of the cross (in the 
church) IS formed by a small pulpit 
surmounting six columns, one of 
which is the most beautiful of the 
many which beautify St Mark's ; 
it is of black and white porphyry. 
In the church is also the porphyry 
vessel of holy water, the base of 
which is an antique altar with 
Grecian sculpture of dolphins and 
tridents. 

The exact era of the very exqui- 
sitely-sculptured marble altar of 
the chapel de Mascoli is unknown. 
The Virgin in the centre is by 
Nicolas Pisano. 

On the balustrade between the 
church and the choir are fourteen 
admirable statues, the Virgin, St 
Mark, and the twelve Apostles, 
all by the brothers Jacobello and 
Pietro Paolo dalle Massagne, of 
Venice, 1394, pupils of the Pisan 
school. 

At the entrance of the choir are 
two pulpits of choice marbles, sup- 
ported by pillars of great value ; 



near them are two small marble 
altars of the most delicatie carving. 
The confessional, which encloses 
the grand altar in the choir, is 
sustained by four pillars of Greek 
marble, on which some of the inci 
dents of Holy Writ are sculptured 
in haut-relief ; this ancient work is 
Byzantine in its style. At the back 
of the parapet of the grand altar, 
which is modern and of mixed 
marble and bronze, is the great 
object of Venetian reverence, the 
body of St Mark. Behind the grand 
altar is another, smaller but very 
beautiful, with bas-reliefs in marble 
and gold bronze, all by Sansovino. 
A smaU pulpit above this altar is 
borne by four twisted columns Of 
oriental alabaster, eight feet in 
height, two of which are white and 
transparent ; the learned Corniani 
pronounces them unique. 

The bas-reliefs are of many styles, 
ages, and countries — some Egyp- 
tian ; one, accounted Persian, re- 
presents 'Ceres in a car drawn by 
Dragons,' and merits particular at- 
tention. 

The marble ornaments and the 
bronze folding door into the sacristy 
are the very perfect work of I. San- 
sovino ; the bronze figures were a 
labour of twenty years ; the subject 
is the 'Death and Resurrection of 
Christ.' Among the smaU busts in 
relief the artist has introduced those 
of Titian, VeceUio, Pietro, Aretino, 
and his own. 

Notwithstanding the affluence of 
this city in great painters and 
their great works, St Mark's is, 
much less rich in paintings than in 
the productions of the sister arts. 
The two grand altar pieces or icons 
are the most remarkable ; one serves 
as a cover to the other. The exte- 
rior painting is at all times to be 
seen ; the other is only given to 
public view on solemn festivals. 
The first, an old painting on wood, 
is Greek in its character ; it is in 
four compartments, and the work 



AUSTRIA.— ROUTE 105. VENICE. CHURCHES. 



569 



of Maestro Paolo and his sons Luc 
and Giovanni, of Venice, 1344 ; the 
second, called the Sala d'Oro, or 
Byzantine icon, is an enamel on a 
plate of silver and gold, glittering 
with pearls and precious stones, 
cameos and carvings. It represents 
incidents in Holy Writ and in the 
life of St Mark, mixed with apos- 
tles, prophets, angels, and Greek 
and Latin inscriptions. 

The treasury, once so rich in 
gold, jewellery, precious stones, and 
the spoils of the east, participates 
in the dmiinished glories of Venice; 
it has lost everything but its relics, 
and some exquisite vases, bowls, 
pateras, &c., of hard oriental stone, 
burnished or enamelled with gold 
and silver, and some ancient crys- 
tals, both natural and artificiaj, of 
the rarest workmanship. ■ ... ., ., 

The Church of St ZacharU is of 
a singular style of architecture, a 
blending of the Latin and the 
Greek; the architect is unknown, 
but it has been attributed to Martin 
Lombardo about 1487. The fa9ade 
is very elegant and very rich in 
marbles; the principal entrance is 
adorned with beautiful sculpture, 
crowned with a statue of the titu- 
lary saint, by Vittoria. The head 
of this very careful work had suf- 
fered dilapidation, but it has been 
repaired. The internal construc- 
tion commands admiration, by the 
splendour of its marbles and the 
curious elegance of its style, in 
excellent harmony with the ex" 
terior. 

Among the many fine paintings 
which cover the walls of St Zacharie 
the best are : the ' Circumcision,' by 
G. Bellini, and the altar piece of 
the ' Virgin , the Child Jesus, and 
the Four Saints,' one of the most 
admired productions of the same 
artist, so much admired, indeed, 
that it formed part of the French 
booty in 1797, a;nd of restitution in 
1815. . 

Of the best sculpture^ aire :. the 



three altars in wood with gilded 
carvings, and many rare and char- 
acteristic devices by the Muranesi, 
1445;. the bust and monument of 
Alessandro Vittoria, the work of 
his own hands: he died in 1608, *t,j 
the age of eighty-three. . .-' 

The Greek Church of St George 
is by Tansovino, 1550. Three 
orders prevail in the facade; the 
very elaborate porch is Doric. 
This solid and elegant church, 
adapted expressly for the Greek 
ritual, is adorned with some good 
mosaics. 

St Fiancisco della Vigna is built 
from the design of Sansovino, 1534; 
but the noble fagade of the Corin- 
tliian order is a later work, by 
Palladio. St Francisco is a large 
and graceful edifice, enclosing 
seventeen chapels, and as many 
altars. 

The finest pictures are accounted 
those of the • Annunciation,' by 
Pennacchi, but in the style of 
Giovanni Bellini; the ' Resurrec- 
tion,' by Paul Veronese; an an- 
cient and curious work by Antonio 
di Negropont, who flourished at 
the beginning of the fifteenth cen- 
tury ; the ' Virgin adoring her 
Child;' a small picture of the 'Last 
Sui>pei% carefully copied by Le 
Fevre from the original of Paul 
Veronese, which the republic pre- 
sented to Louis XIV of France; 
' God the Father and His Son ' 
(placed above the pulpit), by 
Jerome Santa Croce ; and ' Our 
Lady and certain Saints,' a very dis ? , 
tinguished work of Paul Veronese, ~ 

St Pietro was rebuilt in 1621 qi\; 
the plans of Gropiglia, but its fa- 
9ade, of the composite order, is by 
Esmeraldi, who closely imitates 
Palladio. This fine church was 
used as the cathedral of the diocese 
until 1807, when the patriarch's 
throne was removed to St Mark's. 
Its most distinctive possession is 
a very antique marble pulpit, be- 
lie v;ed by the Ytilgar to be the ideu- 



570 



NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 105. VENICE. CHURCHES. 



tical pulpit hallowed by the preach- 
ing of St Peter at Antioch. It has 
been pronounced the seat or throne 
of some African potentate, an 
Arabic inscription upon it being 
two verses of the Koran; doubts, 
however, as to its primitive charac- 
ter, still prevail. In this church is 
the master-piece of Gregorio Lazza- 
rini, ' St Laurentio Giustiniani dis- 
tributing alms,' 1691. A oeautiful 
mosaic by A. Zuccato, after Tinto- 
retto, is the altar piece. 

No higher praise can be given to 
the architecture of the Church of 
the Redeemer than that it is Palla • 
dio's best work. It was raised in 
fulfilment of a solemn vow, offered 
up by the heads of the republic as 
a testimonj'^ of gratitude on the 
cessation of the plague which smote 
Venice in 1575, and carried off fifty 
thousand of its inhabitants. 

This most beautiful church con- 
tains (among many others) three 
masterly paintings by Giovanni 
Bellini ; all of the Virgin and the 
infant Saviour, with saints and an- 
gels ; the artist's manner of treat- 
ing his subject is very perceptibly 
different ; the middle painting is the 
most elaborate, but the one to the 
right of the spectator is by far the 
most animated. The altar is over- 
loaded with ornaments, showing the 
decay of a pure taste. 

St Mary de la Salute is a rich and 
stately pile, but oppressed with or- 
naments, an indication of the com- 
mencement of the bad taste which 
became prevalent toward the end of 
the sev^enteenth century. It was 
built in 1531 ; the very lofty cupola, 
however, is much admired. Long- 
hena was the architect. 1,200,000 
piles were required in the founda 
tion. This church was also erected 
by the government of Venice in 
token of thanksgiving for the dis- 
continuance of the plague in 
1630, when forty-four thousand 
fell victims to the pestilence. It 
contains 125 statues, and very many 



paintings, being rich in the works 
of Titian. 

In the ceiling of the choir are 
three large and eight smaller ovals ; i 
the larger, 'Elias,' the ' Manna,' and 
' Habakkuk,' painted by Giuseppe 
del Salviati ; the smaller, the ' Evan- 
gelists and Fathers,' by Titian, who 
also painted ' St Mark in the midst 
of Eour Saints' (his early style) in 
the sacristy ; the ' Death of Abel,' 
the 'Sacrifice of Abraham,' and 'Da- 
vid overthrowing Goliah ' (three 
sublime productions of the very 
zenith of his skill) on the roof 
of the sacristy ; and a later work 
in the church, the 'Descent of 
the Holy Ghost.' Tintoretto and 
Salviati have also embellished the 
interior. The noble convent once 
attached to this church is now the 
patriarchal seminary. 

The Church of St John and St 
Paul is of the best architecture of 
the middle ages. An inscription 
above the organ shows it to have 
been commenced in 1246, and con- 
secrated in 1430. The name of the 
architect has not been preserved. 

The magnificence of this church, 
the chasteness and richness of its 
ornaments, and the many illustri- 
ous dead and interesting monu- 
ments within its sacred walls, have 
rendered it one of the most cele- 
brated as it is one of the noblest in 
Venice. - 

The most admired paintings are 
— an altar piece (in nine compart- 
ments) of the ' Dead Christ,' the" 
' Annunciation,' ' St Christophei*,- 
&c., by one of the Vivarinis ; the 
' Exhumation of the Body of St 
John of Damascus,' by L. Bassanoj 
and the ' Holy Trinity,' the ' Vir- 
gin and Saints,' by the same artist; 
the ' Crucifixion,' by Tintoretto ; 
' Pope Honorius III confirming the 
Order of the Dominicans,' by Bas- 
sano ; ' St Peter the Martyr,' a 
master-piece of Titian's, distin- 
guished by French rapine and 
restoration ; the ' Saviour in the 



AUSTRIA. — ROUTE 105. VENICE. CHURCHES. 



571 



midst of his Apostles,' by Eoch 
Mazoni ; and the paintings on the 
ceiling of the sacristy, by Marco 
VeceUio. These are but a few out 
or a vast number of fine pictures. 

The monuments and sculpture 
most celebrated are : the monument 
of the Doge Pietro Mocenigo, who 
died in 1476, by Pietro Lombardo 
and his sons, Antonio and Tullius ; 
the statue of General Naldo, by L. 
Bregno ; the mausoleum of Edward 
Windsor, an Englishman, 1574, a 
rarity in Italian cities ; a marble 
group, ' Victor Capello on his knees 
before St Helena,' an admirable 
labour of Antonio Dentone, 1480 ; 
the monument of the Doge Pascal 
Malipiero, 1461 ; that of the Doge 
Thomas Mocenigo, by Pietro and 
Nicolas of Elorence, and Giovanni 
and Martino of Piesole, 1423 ; and 
that of the Doge Giovanni Moce- 
nigo. a majestic work by Tullius 
Lombardo ; of the Doge Nicolas 
Marcello, 1474, by an unknown 
artist ; the stately mausoleum of 
the Doge Leonardo Loredano, 1521, 
by Grapiglia ; the statue of the 
hero was sculptured by Campagna 
in his youth, after the drawing of 
Danese Cataneo, and of the Doge 
Andreo Vendramin, 1478, the most 
beautiful in Venice. Cicognara 
cites it as a proof of the perfection 
of Venetian art ; it is believed to 
be of the school of the Leopardi, 
probably by that Alessandro Leo- 
pardo who made the bronze pedes- 
tals for the three masts in the 
Piazza of St Mark : the statues of 
Adam and Eve, by Tullius Lom- 
bardo, which adorned the sides of 
the urn, have been transferred to 
the palace Vendramin-Calergi, and 
replaced by two female figures, 
attributed to L. Bregno 

The grand window, in coloured 
glass, by Jerome Mocetto (sixteenth 
century), is asserted to be after the 
design of B. Vivarini. 

The Church of St Mary of the 
Frari is by Nicolas Pisane, 1250. 



It is vast and magnificent ; en- 
tombed within it are sovereigns and 
warriors ; but it derives greater 
distinction from being the burial 
place of Titian, who died during 
the plague in 1575. No monu- 
ment has been raised to the great 
master, and it is only lately that 
two verses were engraved in the 
marble pavement to indicate his 
place of rest. 

The Church of St Mary, called 
H Duomo di Torcello, is a remark- 
able specimen of the ecclesiastical 
architecture of its day, 1008. 
Eighteen pillars of Greek marble 
support the middle nave, and ap- 
pear, from their bases and capitals, 
to have formed part of some Roman 
edifice ; the holy-water vessel ap- 
pears also to have been a pagan 
altar. This church possesses a 
table of silver gilt, a Byzantine 
production of the same class as the 
Pala d'Oro of St Mark's. The 
windows have marble shutters on 
iron hinges, an eastern custom. 

The Church of St James of the 
R'talto is the oldest in Venice ; it 
was built in 421, and rebuilt in 
1194. In all sulosequent repairs 
its primitive form has been re- 
spected. Its altars and statuary 
are of superior elegance, but very 
modern in comparison with the age 
of the church. 

The Church of the Armenians 
boasts some good pictures and 
sculptures, and the convent a well- 
filled library, and many interesting 
eastern MSS., a very perfect Egyp- 
tian mummy, well-preserved papy- 
rus, cabinets of experimental philo- 
soijhy and natural history, and a 
printing establishment, famous for 
its editions of oriental languages. 

The Palace of the Dukes or Doges. 
— Like so many of the more im- 
portant edifices of Venice, this the 
most important presents a mixture 
of styles. The crusades and the 
eastern conquests of the republic 
introduced Arabian and Greek 



67$ northers; italt.-t-route 105. tenjce. palace of the doge. 



architecture, and the blending of 
their fantastic peculiarities with 
those properly European give a 
novel character to the buildings of 
the city, striking for its singularity, 
its beauty, and its grand historical 
associations. The predominant 
architectural character of this 
palace is Arabian. The first archi- 
tect was Calendario, about the 
middle of the fourteenth century, 
ijnder the ill-fated Marino Faliero; 
but Calendario's labours only com- 
prised the part on the quay and the 
first six arches of the fa9ade on the 
piazzetta ; the remainder of these 
arches was indeed a continuance of 
the same design in 1424, under 
another unhappy doge, Francisco 
Foscari. One peculiarity is to be 
remarked in the upper range of 
arches in the piazzetta ; they are 
all of white marble, excepting the 
ninth and tenth, counting from the 
Delia Carta gate — from them cri- 
minal sentences were announced, 
and their marble is of the very sig - 
nificant hue of — red. The other 
portions of this palace were added 
at different periods in varying 
styles, and by many architects. 

Most impressive as a whole, the 
details of the dogana are not less 
calculated to excite admiration. 
We would invite especial attention 
to the following beauties of the ex- 
terior: — 

The capitals of the lower range 
of columns with their rich deco- 
rations, the greater portion from 
the chisels of Calendario and his 
pupils, consequently of the four- 
teenth century ; they fix an im - 
portant epoch altogether essential 
to any history of the arts. 

The very elegant frise a jour re- 
sulting from the union of the upper 
line of arches. 

The angle, between the quay and 
the piazzetta, which rests on one 
isolated column, a bold and even 
astonishing contrivance, showing 
how well the rules of statics were 



then understood by the Italian 
architects. 

The grand windows, with their 
sculptures and bas-reliefs, on the 
quay and the piazzetta. 

It is impossible in our limited 
space specifically to describe the 
gates, courts, staircases, and halls 
of this most noble palace. The far- 
famed giant's staircase has its ap- 
pellation from its two colossal 
figures of Mars and Neptune, by 
Andovino ; at the top the doges 
were crowned, and there Marino 
Faliero (whose memory is conse- 
crated by the genius of our noble 
poet) was beheaded: it certainly 
may be styled the most historical 
staircase in the world. The halls 
and galleries are full of paintings 
and statuary, frequently represen- 
tations of the great deeds of the 
" octogenarian chief, Byzantium's 
conquering foe,"of the " Peloponne- 
sian" and other Venetian leaders. 
Many of the subjects are startling 
to a Protestant, such as — the ' Doge 
Leonardo Dona presented by St 
Mark to the Virgin,' &c. On the 
wainscot of the great council cham- 
ber, now the royal library of St 
M.ark, are the portraits of seventy- 
six doges (thirty- nine being in ano- 
ther apartment), commencing with 
Obelerio. the ninth potentate, 804. 
The place whicl^, in the chronolo- 
gical order, should present Marino 
Faliero, is black and portraitless, 
with a pithy inscription detailing 
why — "Hie est locus MariniFale- 
thri decapitati pro criminibus." 
The royal library, now in this hall, 
dates from Petrarch and Cardinal 
Bessarion, who presented their col- 
lections of books to the republic ; 
it contains 70,000 volumes and 
5,000 MSS. In it is preserved the 
famous map of the world, by 
Fra Mauro in 1460. It gives the 
whole surface of the world then 
known, and actually indicates the 
existence of the Cape of Good 
Hope, although it was then undia- 



AUSTRIA. — EOUTE 105. VENICE. PALACES. 



574 



covered. A copy of this map was 
sent, at his own request, to King 
Alphonso IV of Portugal. 

The paintings and sculptures 
cannot be fully enumerated in our 
limits, but their excellence can be 
estimated when it is known that 
among them are some of the best 
specimens of the Bassanos, the Tin- 
torettos, Tiepolo, Palma, Titian, 
Paul Veronese, the Sansovinos, the 
Campagnas, Vittorias, &c. &c. &c. 

The steeple of St Mark, in the 
piazza, is 284 Venetian feet in 
height; it was commenced in 902, 
and increased to its present eleva- 
tion at three intervals, 1150, 1178, 
and 1510, when it was completed 
under the direction of Maestro 
Buono. From the summit is a fine 
prospect of the city, the Alps, the 
lagunes, and the Adriatic. 

The lodge at the foot of the 
steeple is very splendid with the 
works of Sansovino and others. It 
used to be occupied, during the 
ideliberations of the great council, 
by a high officer of the republic, 
the procurator of St Mark. 

The three pillars or pedestals, in 
the same piazza, are the work of 
Alessandro Leopardo in 1505 ; the 
bas-reliefs are tritons, syrens, and 
maritime symbols. These pedestals 
support three masts, or more pro- 
perly lofty flag- staffs, from which 
once floated the proud banner of 
the republic ; their number is said 
to typify the three great conquests 
of the Venetian power — Cyprus, 
Candia, and the Morea. 

The Procuratie Vecchie, or an- 
cient galleries, were the official 
residence of the procurators until 
the erection of the 

Procuratie Nuove, now the royal 
palace. Pietro Aretino said this 
fabric was beyond envy, and Pal- 
ladio pronounced it the fairest 
and richest from ancient times to 
his. It was begun by Sansovino, in 
1536, and finished after that great 
artist's death by Scamozzi. Its 



pictures and statues are many and 
admirable. 

The Mint is by Sansovino ; it is 
in three orders. Rustic, Doric, and 
Ionic; the ancient establishment 
was in the same locality ; its anti- 
quity is proved by the issue of coin 
so early as the eighth century. 
The first gold ducats or Venetian 
sequins were struck in 1284. 

The two columns of eastern 
granite, one red the other grey, 
were brought from the Grecian 
Archipelago by the Doge Dominico 
Micheli on his return from his 
conquests in Palestine, when the 
eastern emperor was taught to re- 
spect the Venetian flag. They 
were placed in their present posi- 
tion in 1180, by Nicholas Barat- 
tieri, of Lombardy In 1327 a 
marljle figure of St Theodore was 
placed on the summit of one, and 
in 1816 the famous winged lion, in 
bronze, was replaced on the other ; 
from 1797 to that year it was a 
trophy and a decoration of the 
Invalides in Paris. 

Palaces. — The Trevisan Palace is 
a very elegant edifice by an un- 
known architect. It is adorn- 
ed with many marbles, both 
Egyptian and Greek ; its style 
(that of the Lombardi) marks the 
epoch of the good taste in architec- 
ture, which attained its height at 
the close of the sixteenth century. 
This palace is famous for having 
belonged to the Capello family ; it 
was purchased by the beautiful 
Bianca, the mistress and wife of 
the Grand Duke Francis of Tus- 
cany, and given by her to her 
brother Victor, in 1578. The fa- 
mily mansion (so well described 
in Lady Bulwer's novel), from 
which Bianca eloped with Bona- 
venturi, in 1563, is near the Ponte 
Storto. 

The Pisani Palace announces the 
renewal of chaste and pure archi- 
tecture in the fifteenth century ; it 
contains the precious picture of 

H 



574 



NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 105- VENICE. ARSENAL. 



the ' Family of Darius at the feet 
of Alexander,' by Paul Veronese. 

The Barbarico Palace is rich in 
Titians, showing his three progres- 
sive manners. Here is also the 
group of 'Daedalus and Icarus,' a 
youthful work of Canova. 

The Ca' Doro is believed to be 
of the fourteenth century, but is 
still unfinished; the Arabian or 
Saracenic style predominates. Its 
name was thought to be derived 
from some exterior ornaments in 
gold, but a recently-discovered do- 
cument shows it belonged to the 
Doro family. 

The Palace Vendramin-Calergi 
is a model of symmetry, elegance^ 
and magnificence. It is attributed 
to Pietro Lombardi in 1481. The 
fa9ade is Corinthian, and adorned 
with Greek marble pillars, and 
incrusted with porphyry and ser- 
pentine. 

The Manfrini Palace is distin- 
guished for a noble gallery of pic- 
tures, foreign and Venetian. In 
this gallery one of Giorgione's 
works has received, as well as 
merited. Lord Byron's panegyric— 

"Tis a but portrait of his son, and wife, 
And self; but such a, woman! love in 
life!" 

The Manfrini Palace is open to 
amateurs every Monday and Thurs- 
day. 

The Eoyal Arsenal (both naval 
and military) is girded with strong 
walls and towers; it is more than 
two miles in circumference, and 
announces what the power of Ve- 
nice was. This arsenal was com- 
menced about 1304, and continued 
through subsequent ages. The most 
attractive of its present objects 
are the four lions near the grand 
entrance; they are of the marble of 
Mount Hymettus, and were brought 
from Greece by Morosini, the 
Peloponnesian, in 1687. 

The first (to the right) was the 
ornament of the ancient Pirseus, 
now the Port-Leone of Athens; it 



bears an inscription in form of a 
serpent on each side, near the 
mane. Akerblad believes them 
(rather strangely) to be Runic, and 
is even somewhat confirmed in 
that opinion by M. de Villoisin. 
Bossi, and with him D'Hancarville, 
pronounce them Pelasgian ; and 
Canova agrees. Rink considers he 
has deciphered more or less the 
words A0HNH 'lEPOS and some 
traces of the word AEHN — "the 
Lion sacred to Athens." Notwith- 
standing its merits, this work ap- 
pears to have been prior to the best 
age of Grecian art. Somo regard 
it as a monument of the battle of 
Marathon; it would in that case be 
490 years older than the Christian 
era. This supposition is supported 
by the fact that in very remote 
times, prepared serpent's skin was 
used for writing, as well as papy- 
rus, and the form of the material 
so used appearing on this monu- 
ment betokens its high antiquity. 
On the most ancient of the Sphinxes 
to their kings, the Egyptians en- 
graved the name and titles on the 
shoulder. Rosellini, the coadjutor 
of Champollion, believes the early 
Greeks adopted this custom from 
the Egyptians, and therefore in- 
scriptions appear on each shoulder 
of this colossal lion. The second 
lion, also from the neighbourhood 
of the Piraeus (Port-Leone), seems 
of the same antiquity; it is a fine 
work, excepting the head, unskil- 
fully added by some modern artist. 
The other two require no comment; 
the pedestals are all Venetian. 

With their dockyards, cannon 
foundries, &c., the Venetians have 
known how to mix monuments of 
their heroes, and ennobling works 
of art— an example worthy of imi- 
tation by more utilitarian naval 
powers. One of the best and latest 
monuments in the arsenal is by 
Canova, and to one of the last of 
free Venetian heroes, the Grand 



AUSTRIA. — ^KOUTE 106. VENICE TO BCS-OGNA. MONSELICE. 576 



Admiral Angelo Emo, who died in 
1792. Opposite to it is the armour 
of Henry lY of France, presented 
by that distinguished monarch to 
the republic, when he requested to 
be enrolled among the patricians. 
Among other objects is a large 
gilded model of the now useless Bu- 
centaur. The arsenal contains arms, 
in six apartments, for 60,000 men. 

The Kialto, " where merchants 
most did congregate," is not older 
than 1520 ; it was built by Sear- 
pagnino, the old structure having 
been consumed by fire in 1513. 
The bridge of the same name is 
greatly admired for its solidity. 

The Hunchback of the Kialto is 
opposite the church of St James. 
It is a marble column, on which 
were announced the laws and decrees 
of the senate; a small staircase by 
the side rests on a stooping figure 
by Pietro di Salo, and hence it has 
the name ' H Gobbo di Eialto.' 

The Theatre La Fenice was the 
second in size in Italy ; it was burnt 
down in 1836, but is now re- 
erected on the same plan and 
dimensions. Open during the car- 
nival only. 

The Theatre Malibran is new 
(1834), on the site of the old theatre 
of St John Chrysostom. 

The Prison on the quay of the 
Sclavonians is an elegant structure. 
The Venetian authorities relate 
that Howard pronounced it healthy, 
and the strongest he had visited. 
What he pronounced, or would have 
pronounced, their secret state pri- 
sons, or "wells," hollowed in the 
palace walls, is not upon Venetian re- 
cord ; indeed, the authorities seem to 
have felt the disgrace these dun- 
geons were to their republican in- 
stitutions ; for, on the first approach 
of the French, and before the final 
extinction of their independence, 
they destroyed the worst and deep- 
est ; some, however, are stiU to be 
seen ; "and if," says Sir John Hob- 
house, " you are in want of consola- 
tion fOT the extinction of patrician 



power, perhaps you may find it 
there ; scarcely a ray of light glim- 
mers into the narrow gallery which 
leads to the cells, and the places of 
confinement themselves are totally 
dark. A wooden pallet, raised a 
foot from the ground, was the only 
furniture. The conductors teU you 
no light was allowed." 

Those who love to make pilgrim- 
ages to lay shrines, consecrated by 
the abode of genius, learning, or 
celebrity, may be amply gratified in 
Venice by visiting the residences of 
old Marco Polo, Goldoni, Gozzi, Ti- 
tian, Canova, Lord Byron, and a 
great many more. 

The Academy of Fine Arts, for- 
merly the Confraternity of Charity, 
is a noble and national collection 
of choice paintings and statuary, 
nearly all of the Venetian school. 

ROUTE 106. 

VENICE TO BOLOGNA THEOUGff 
FEKKAEA. 

Distance, 13^ postes. 



- 






Postes. 


rom Venice to Padua 


_ 


_ 


- 4 


— Monselice - 


. 


_ 


- li 


— Rovigo 


- 


- 


- n 


— Polesella 


- 


> 


- 1 


— Ferrara 


- 


- 


- 2 


■ — Malalbergo 


- 


- 


- H 


— Argine 


- 


- 


- 1 


— Bologna 


- 


- 


- 1 



Padua described from Milan to 
Venice. 

An excellent road from Padua to 
Monselice runs by the side of the 
canal, bordered on both sides by 
numerous ancient palaces : the prin- 
cipal is that belonging to the Duke 
of Catajo; the building and gardens, 
turrets, statues, fountains, inter- 
mixed with the green cypress and 
blooming flowers, have a very 
pretty effect. 

Monselice (hms : Grand Hdiel, 
and Poste) is situated between two 
lofty mounts; on the top of one are 
the ruins of an ancient castle. 
From Monselice an excursion 
may be made to Arquato, distant 



576 



NORTHERN ITALY ROUTE 106. VENICE TO BOLOGNA. 



about four miles, situated amongst 
the Euganean hills, the retreat of 
Petrarch, '^ho is supposed to have 
died here in 1374. Monselice is 
noted for its sheep, and the ruins of 
the castle furnisli the principal part 
of the vipers employed in the pre- 
paration of the teriaca of Venice. 

About five miles before reaching 
Rovigo cross the Adige by a flying 
bridge ; the tax for crossing for a 
post carriage with six horses, 2 
Austrian livres 94 cts; four horses, 
2 36 ; two ditto, 1 77 ; for vetturini, 
six horses, 1 47 ; four ditto, 1 18 ; 
two ditto, 98 cents. 

Between Monselice and Eovigo, 
close by the town of Boara, the 
Adige is passed. Every traveller 
— in especial every northern tra- 
veller — ^must be struck with sur- 
prise at the power of vegetation, 
and the prodigies it performs in 
this country. 

The territory is called Polesina 
di Rovigo ; it is watered by a great 
number of canals, and yields a 
superabundance of hay, hemp, corn, 
and fruit of every description and 
of excellent quality. The whole 
of this part was laid under water 
in November, 1844, by the over- 
flowmg of the Po and Adige. 

Rovigo (Inns : Golden Shell, 
Cappa d'Oro, and Three Crowns), 
with a population of about 9,000, is 
on a branch of the Adige. 

The Hotel de YiUe, or Palace of 
the Podesta, forms a portion of a 
large place, the distinguishing orna- 
ment of which is a stone column 
formerly bearing the lion of St 
Mark. The theatre is large and 
well built. The cathedral deserves 
a passing inspection. At one of 
the extremities of Eovigo is a large 
round chapel, its exterior encircled 
with a piazza and pillars ; to this 
chapel, where an image of the 
Vu'gin is an object of veneration, 
the devout have made so many 
votive oflPerings of pictures, that the 
walls are covered with them as 
with tapestry 



In the subterranean researches 
prosecuted at Adria, in this neigh- 
bourhood, some remains of Roman 
antiquities were unearthed, at a 
depth of rather more than two 
yards and a half ; and about a yard 
deeper were found the relics of 
Etruscan tombs. 

At Badia, not far from Rovigo, 
a pottery has recently been estab- 
lished : the wares are in imita- 
tion of those of England. 

On leaving Rovigo the road 
lowers perceptibly, and after pass- 
ing through 

Arqua, a different town to that 
formerly mentioned, the road runs to 
the brink of the Bianco canal, eight 
miles distant, and then stretches 
along the left bank of the PoleseUa 
canal, and leads to a village of that 
name, at the point where the canal 
flows into the Po. The PoleseUa be- 
ing crossed by a bridge, the course 
of the Po is pursued until the Ponte 
di Lago Scuro appears directly 
opposite, between high poplars, to 
Madalena, the frontier of Austria ; 
the river is then passed over by 
means of a flying bridge. The 
contrivance to pass over this wide 
river is not unlike the flying 
bridges on the Rhine. A double 
boat, level with the embankments 
on both sides, for the covenience of 
driving carriages on to them, is 
fitted with masts and sails ; the 
latter are only used when the wind 
blows against the stream, by which 
the boat is driven across much*^ 
quicker than when left to the action 
of the current only. When the 
wind blows with the stream, lines 
and tow-boats are used. Toll : car- 
riage with four horses, 8 pauls ; two 
ditto, 4 pauls. When posting, the 
traveller pays this toU ; en vettu- 
rini, the coaclnnan pays it. On 
reaching the opposite bank, enter 
the Papal States, where a vise to 
your passport, a search in your 
luggage, and a fee for taking these 
things coolly, will sufficiently an- 
nounce that " great fact." 



ROMAN STATES. — ROUTE 10". VENICE TO BOLOGNA. FERRARA. 577 



The route from Venice to Fer- 
rara may be accomplished by 
water ; first coasting the island of 
Malamocca, along the lagunes, then 
the island of Chioggia, near which 
the Brenta is entered ; that river 
being ascended a very short way, 
the course is transferred to the 
canal di VaUe, dug in 1567, to 
unite ttie Adige and the Cavanella. 
The Cavanella is ascended as far as 
Tornova ; the canal di Loreo then 
leads to the Po, up which the pas- 
sage is pursued to the Ponte di 
Lago Scuro, quite close to Fer- 
rara. 

Ferrara. — Hotel: Treil^fon (Three 
Moors). Population, 26,000. This 
city is erected near one of the arms 
of the Po, in a plain natiu^ally fer- 
tile, but losing much of its value 
and salubrity in consequence of its 
very trifling elevation above the 
level of the sea. 

It is asserted that when Aquileja 
was overthrown by Attila and his 
Huns, some of the fugitive inhabi- 
tants of Friuli directed their course 
towards the Po, and found a safe 
hiding place among swamps and 
woods, where Ferrara now stands. 
About the year 555 the Exarch of 
B-avemia environed their retreat 
with lines of walls, and from this 
apparently inauspicious foundation 
rapidly grew up one of the fairest 
and most flourishing cities of 
Italy. 

In the present day Ferrara pre- 
sents only sorrowful vestiges of her 
former greatness : reduced popula- 
tion, diminished trade, deserted 
palaces, and grass-grown streets, 
all proclaim the same tale. It is 
now a portion of the papal domin- 
ions, and stiU presents a noble 
aspect. The streets, " whose sym- 
metry was not for solitude," are 
straight and wide ; that of St Be- 
nedetto is 2,120 yards long, extend- 
ing in a right line to the gate of 
St John. The entire length of the 
city, from the gate of St Benedict 
to that of St George, is 3,048 yards. 



The street of La Giuecca is the 
handsomest in the whole city. 

The public and private buildings 
are very fine ; the citadel, on the 
west side of the city, is large, 
strong, and regular. 

In the centre of Ferrara stands 

The Castle, the ancient residence 
of the dukes, now that of the car- 
dinal legate ; it is moated on aU sides, 
and flanked with four large towers. 

This city, which once vamited its 
own school, is very rich in paint- 
ings, having preserved the finest 
productions of Guercino, the Carac- 
cis, Garofolo, Mantegna, and others. 

The Cathedral, a fine church in 
the form of a Greek cross, holds 
the ashes of Lilio Gregorio Giraldi. 

The Church of the Theatines, and 
more markedly that of 

The Benedictines, present pic- 
tures of the greatest value. In this 
church was the tomb of Ariosto, 
until it was transported by the 
French, about the beginning of the 
present century, to the public ly- 
ceum. In one of the apartments of 
the adjoining convent is a Paradise 
painted by Garofolo ; the artist was 
the friend of Ariosto, and at the 
poet's own desire introduced his 
portrait among the blessed, between 
St Catherine and St Sebastian. 

The Church of St Dominico in- 
cludes the tombs of both the poets 
Stozzi, of that almost universal 
genius Celio Calgagnini, of Nicolas 
Leoniceno, and others. 

Among the palaces, those of Villa 
and Camerini are most deserving of 
regard. 

The size and style of the theatre 
place it in the first rank of the 
dramatic temples of Italy. 

The huge Chartreuse is now con- 
verted into a public cemetery ; its 
site is reported to have covered the 
same ground as the whole city of 
Mirandola. 

Inthe hospital of St Anne the same 

" abhorred grate, 
Marring the sunbeams with its hideous 
shade," 



578 



NORTHEEN ITALY.— ROUT^ 107. BOLOGNA. 



»till gives its portion of light to the 
narrow cell in which Tasso, on the 
plea of his insanity, was imprisoned 
by Duke Alphonso ; it is below the 
ground floor. It may be proper to 
state that a general belief seems 
now to prevail that there is much 
more exaggeration than truth in 
the stories of Tasso's prison. 

The University, sometimes called 
the Lyceum, has an amply stocked 
library, both in books and rare 
MSS. ; but its choicest treasures are 
the autograph writings of Ariosto, 
Tasso, and Guarini ; Ariosto's arm- 
chair and inkstand are also reli- 
giously . preserved. In addition to 
these inestimable possessions are 
collections of inscriptions, medals, 
and other objects of antiquity, ob- 
tained from the researches carried 
on about eight miles from the city, 
in a quarter where it was contended 
old Ferrara stood. 

A good botanic garden is attached 
to the university, along with other 
possessions proper to the nature of 
that institution. 

The house of Guarini is stiU to 
be seen ; in it took place the first 
representation of ' II Pastor Fido.' 

The house of Ariosto is in the 
street of Mirasole, and is easily re- 
cognisable from bearing an elegant 
inscription to the genius of this 
Homer of Italy. 

The Place Ariostea is the finest 
in Ferrara ; it was once the Place 
of Napoleon. In the middle is a 
fine statue of the poet. 

The civil and commercial tri- 
bunals are in the new palace called 
Delia Eagione, in the Place of the 
Cathedral. 

It would be erroneous to affirm 
that the air of Ferrara is absolutely 
wholesome, but it has become no- 
torious that the .accounts of its in- 
salubrity are full of exaggeration. 
The society cannot be surpassed in 
any city. 

The district is intersected with a 
great many streaihs, and is conse- 
quently marshy ; it abounds, how- 



ever, in wheat, and supplies rich 
and extensive pasturage. Fishing, 
particularly in the valleys of Com- 
machio, is one of the most impor- 
tant pursuits of the country. 

No excursion can be made in the 
Environs of Ferrara without the 
attention being aroused by the 
aspect of thePo, so admirable for 
its broad, full sweep, its tributary 
canals, its environing sites, and its 
crowd of barks, and so terrible for 
its inundations, that the slightest 
rise in its waters spreads alarm 
through aU the adjoining plains. 
Ferrara and the neighbouring coun- 
try suffered much from the floods 
in the autumn of 1839. 

The remainder of the route to 
Bologna offers nothing of interest. 

BOLOGNA. 

Inns : Albergo Reale San MarcOf 
the best for families ; quiet, with 
civility and attention and moderate 
charges. Hotel Swiss : the puff" and 
fudge about not bribing couriers 
is untrue. Alberpo Pelerin : this is 
usually the stopping place for the 
voiturier. 

Plenty of these gentry are to be 
met at Bologna, this being the 
spot where exchanges take place, 
and if not very much on your 
guard you will find yourself, when 
starting, transferred, sans ceremonie, 
into the safe keeping of a brother 
coachman. See Introduction; 

The usual cost for four persons 
en vetturini from Bologna to 
Florence or Padua is 5 Napoleons, 
meals, beds, &c., included, occupying 
two days each way. 

Diligences leave Bologna for 

Kome, direct, Mondays and 
Tuesdays, at one p.m. ; fare, 
14 scudi or ecu. 

Florence, Mondays, "Wednesdays, 
and Fridays, at seven a.m ; fare, 
4 scudi. 

Milan, Mondays, Wednesdays, 
and Fridays, at six a.m. ; fare, 
7^ scudi. 



HOMAN STATES.— ROUTE 1 07. BOLOGNA. CHtJRCKES. 



573 



Padua, daily, at firfe a.m., ex- 
cept on Mondays and Thursdays, 
when they leave at twelve at noon. 

Ferrara, same as Padua ; fare, 
I scudo 23 bajocchi. 

Post office open from nine till 
three ; letters leave for England 
every day at eleven in the forenoon, 
except Saturday ; the postage of 
If paul must be paid. 

Booksellers,-— Ruscomy brothers, in 
the Mercati de Mezzo. 

The principal theatre in Bologna, 
though large, is nothing when com- 
pared to La Scala or San Carlo, 
although all guide books, not ex- 
cepting my friend Murray's, say it 
is one of the largest. It contains 
four tiers of boxes, the front of each 
box forming a distinct balcony, or- 
namented in the most simple style, 
white ground most sparingly gilt. 
In the centre is the state box for 
his highness the cardinal, who oc- 
casionally honours the performance 
with his presence. The admission 
is 3 pauls ; commences at eight 
o^clock. 

Serenading, — The ancient custom 
of welcoming strangers by a band 
of music playing under the windows 
of the hotel is still practised in Bo- 
logna, 

Two pauls will send fhem away ; 
Five pauls will cause them to stay. 

Oriffinal. 

Chvrches. — The Cathedral in the 
centre of the town is a large build- 
ing, dedicated to St Peter and St 
Paul ; the exterior is not very 
striking ; it was erected in the 
year 1600 ; the interior is orna- 
mented with Corinthian columns, 
and has three naves, in which are 
some curious paintings. In the 
sanctuary is a fresco of the Annun- 
ciation, the last work of Ludovico 
Caracei ; in the chapter is a paint- 
ing of *.St Peter and the Virgin 
bewailing the death of our Saviour;' 
and at the bottom of the choir is 
another fresco of ' Our Saviour 
giving the keys of Paradise to St 



Peter,' all by the same great mas- 
ter. Below the choir is a curious 
subterranean church. 

The Church of St Petronius, in 
the great square, was erected in 
432, and repaired in 1,300. In this 
large and ancient church Charles V 
was crowned by Clement VIE. In 
this edifice is the famous meridian 
of Cassini, the gnomon of which is 
eighty feet in height ; and on the 
left is a little marble chapel, erected 
at the expense of Benedict XTV, to 
the memory of Cardinal Aldobrandi, 

The Dominican Church has some 
good paintings, particularly the 
'Paradise' of Guido ; a fresco, in 
fine preservation, and considered a 
chef-d'oeuvre of that celebrated mas- 
ter. It also contains the body of 
its founder in a sarcophagus of 
white marble, ornamented with sta- 
tues, one of which is said to be the 
work of Michael Angelo. In the 
piazza adjoining are two ancient 
tombs and two pillars. 

The University has been com- 
pletely restored and beautified ; the 
staircases and corridors are crowned 
with the shields of those persons of 
distinction who studied in the uni- 
versity. 

The Library is arranged in twelve 
rooms, beautifully fitted up and 
well arranged ; in the end room are 
fire safety dresses, models, &c. 

In the Anatomical Theatre are 
carved figures (in wood) of ancient 
professors ; the plafond is an alto- 
relievo in wood of large dimensions; 
the small chapel contains several 
frescoes ; a veiled figure in the 
corner deserves notice. 

The Tower of Asinelli, in the 
middle of the town, was built in 
1119, and is 327 f^t in height, 
being the largest edifice of its kind 
in Italy. From the upper gallery 
is a view of uncommon extent 
great variety, and beauty ; the 
neighbouring tower was erected in 
1110 by Garrisendi and Otto, a 
noble family of Bologna ; it is 145 



580 



NOBTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 107. BOLOGNA. PROVISIONS. 



feet in height, and about eight feet 
out of the perpendicular. 

The Piazza del Gigante, which 
is large but irregular, is adorned 
with a handsome fountain, orna- 
mented with a colossal statue of 
Neptune, considered the chef- 
d'oeuvre of John of Bologna, and 
executed by him in 1563. 

Bologna has been the birthplace 
of many illustrious men, and a 
number of excellent painters, with 
more than thirty popes ; among 
which were Casini the astronomer, 
Manfredi the poet, Guido, Albano, 
Dominichino, Annibale, Ludovico 
and Agostino Caracci, with Bene- 
dict XIV. 

Climate — The climate here is 
good and salubrious, but not very 
warm, except in the heat of sum- 
mer ; however, owing to the nume- 
rous porticos, it is well protected 
at all seasons from the sun and 
rain. 

Provisions- — ^Bologna is one of 
the cities of Italy where one eats 
the best and the most. Its large 
and small sausages (mortadella e 
cotichini) are of European celebrity. 
There is nothing more nourishing 
than its soups, particularly the tor- 
teUini or capelleti, small pates filled 
with suet, yolks of eggs, and Par- 
mesan cheese ; some capeUeti are 
filled with minced fowl, but they 
are inferior to the first. The cer- 
vellato, a pudding of raisins and 
pine kernels (pignoli), is excellent. 
The large salted eel of Comacchio, 
called cazzotto, is a good plat 
maigre. The solid coppo, excel- 
lently made by the peasants of 
milk, sugar, and yolks of eggs, is 
much in demand during the car- 
nival, joyously kept by the Bolog- 
nese. The lattemiele is a light and 
delicate whipped cream. 

Sweetmeats are popular : the za- 
lettini, cakes made of the flour of 
maize, raisins, and pignoli ; the 
fritelle, a fritter of rice and raisins ; 
and the castagnacci from the flour 



of chestnuts, the delight of children, 
and sold in the streets, are all ex- 
cellent. The terra del Cattu is 
an agreeable and strong pastille. 

The rosolios of Bologna are much 
esteemed, particularly those of the 
rose and mint. The latte di vecchia, 
the perfetto amore, ratafia, and ma^ 
raschino are very good ; this last, 
however, has not a foreign reputa- 
tion equal to that of Zara. . 

Bologna has been surnamed La 
Grassa. Its fertile hills produce 
nuts, melons, and all kinds of fruit, 
particularly the golden grape, poe- 
tically named " uva paradisa," men- 
tioned in the agreeable letters of 
the elegant father Eoberti. This 
grape, on account of its solid skin, 
keeps in excellent preservation till 
the months of March or April, and, 
during the carnival, is much in re- 
quest in the boxes of the theatre. 
It also stands carriage. The Bo- 
lognese senate annually made a 
present of this fruit to the Emperor 
Charles VI. Prince Eugene de 
Leuchtemberg who had the rever- 
sion of the domain of Galiera (the 
portion presented to his eldest 
daughter Josephine by Napoleon) 
received some of these grapes twice 
a year. They were sent in a kind of 
waggon, something similar to Erench 
voitures de demenagement, packed 
in boxes, and disposed in the man- 
ner adopted for the paraphernalia 
of ladies during their travels* The 
waggon, thus loaded, crossed the 
Alps at a great expense ; but at 
Christmas and at Easter the prince 
had the pleasure of offering the 
royal family at Munich, where he 
resided, such grapes that, at their 
first apparition, must have appeared 
miraculous. 

Wines. — The wines of the neigh- 
bouring hiUs are strong, and of 
middling quality, but do not keep 
long from the bad habit of watering 
them whilst in the cuve. 

Bologna, once celebrated for its 
manufacture of crapes and gauzes, 



ROMAN STATES. — ROUTE 108 . BOLOGNA TO FLORENCE. 



5S1 



has now but a part of its superiority 
in these articles. 

Doys — The dog fancier will regret 
the not being able to find any trace 
of these dogs, so celebrated in the 
middle ages, figuring in the arms of 
the city, and alluded to in the proud 
epitaph of King Ensius, son of the 
Emperor Frederick IE, who died a 
prisoner of the Bolognese. 

" Sic cauenon magnossepe tenetur aper." 

These dogs, of the race carlins, 
which still in the country bear the 
name of Bolognini, have disappeared 
Uke the old race of Maltese dogs 
mentioned by Varron, but already 
extinct in 1777, at the time of Count 
de Borch's visit to that island. 

Campo Santo. — When the Char- 
treuse convent was suppressed, the 
government converted the mo- 
nastery into a campo santo or 
burying ground, reserving parti- 
cular courts and places for illustri- 
ous families, members of the govern- 
ment, titled churchmen, and rehgious 
establishments still existing ; and 
the spirit of toleration has extended 
so far that Protestants and Papists 
repose together in one common 
dormitory. In one of the angular 
courts are the tombs and sculptured 
monuments brought from the Capu- 
chin convent, celebrated as the spot 
chosen by women of rank and 
beauty as their last abode ; the 
skulls have been cleaned and 
arranged on tablets, with the names 
of their former owners. The tombs 
of the rich are ornamented with 
handsome sarcophagi, while those 
of the poor are distinguished by 
■wooden crosses. In the midst of 
this court orange, citron, rose, and 
mjTtle trees intertwine their foliage 
and flowers. 

Baths of La Porretta. - A good 
road conducts to the thermal and 
mineral waters of La Porretta. Hid- 
den in one of the rocky folds of the 
Apennines, this sheltered spot en- 
joys, notwithstanding its elevated 



situation, a mild and temperate at- 
mosphere. Vacca, speaking of 
these baths, says there is not a 
place more favoured by nature in 
all Europe. The numerous invahds 
attracted by these stiU deservedly 
celebrated waters are comfortably 
lodged, and generally — L e. some- 
times — get rid of their complaints. 

A part of the baths is brilliantly 
lighted with gas extracted from 
these springs. A shoemaker, named 
Spiga, was the first who discovered 
this natural illumination. 

ROUTE 108. 

BOLOGNA TO FLORENCE- 

Distance, 9 postes. 

Postes- 
From Bologna to Pianoro - 1^ 

(A third horse without waiting 
for returns.) 

— Lojano - - - - 1^ 
(A third horse, &c. &c.) 

— Filigare - - - 1 

— Covigliaio - - - 1 
(A third horse from Montecarelli 

to Covigliao.) 

— Montecarelli - - 1 

— Cafagiolo - - - 1 

— Fontebucna - - - 1 
(A third horse from Florence to 

Fontebuona,) 

— Florence - - - 1 , 

Pianoro is the first post station 
from Bologna. The road runs 
along the depths of a valley bound- 
ed with softly swelling hills; its 
inequalities become much more 
frequent and more severely felt 
beyond Pianoro. 

The approach to 

Scaricalasino commands a pros- 
pect of such a nature as to defy the 
efforts of the pencil or even of the 
pen adequately to depict its won- 
ders: the naked eye embraces the 
grand chains of the Alps and the 
Apennines, the vast Lombard plain, 
" the fruitful garden of great Italy," 
as far as Padua; and when the 
weather is especially serene and 
favourable, the environs of Udine, 
the long sweeps of the Po, the 
H 2 



582 



NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 108. BOLOGNA TO FLORENCE. 



ralleys of Comacchio, and the 
Adriatic sea. All this portion of 
the route teems with bold and pic- 
turesque beauties, and is full of 
interest for the naturalist— sea 
shells, petrified fish, and lava, pre- 
senting him with unequivocal signs 
of a subsided deluge and extinct 
volcanoes. 

Bidding adieu to the land of his 
holiness the pope at La Gas, where 
the inn is Hke a dog kennel, we 
reach 

Tuscany.— The frontier line of 
Tuscany is at Filigare, a post station, 
where the grand duke has a mo- 
dern range of buildings, as doganas 
and offices for his police, where the 
luggage of travellers undergoes a 
search, unless a knowing look from 
eoachee, signifying that a 5 paul 
piece will save the trouble: pass- 
ports receive a vise. 

Petra-Mala is a few miles dis- 
tant from Filigare. Here the lovers 
and explorers of physical pheno- 
mena are certain of high gratifica- 
tion in the 

Monte di Fo. — An inextinguish- 
able fire covers five or six square 
yards of the surface of a very fer- 
tile but stony ground, and is com- 
monly called Fiioco di Legno (wood 
fire). No chink or fissure is per- 
ceptible in the part from which the 
flames arise, and dog- grass and 
other herbs grow in close neigh- 
bourhood with the fiery exhalation. 
In some parts the flames are of a 
bluish colour, like that from spirits 
of wine ; in other parts red, and 
vivid enough, in gloomy weather 
and during the darkness of the 
night, to light up the neighbouring 
heights. When water is thrown 
upon it, the fire crackles, disap- 
pears for an instant, and then 
resumes its former vivacity ; its 
action upon wood is prompt and 
powerful, but stones seem per- 
fectly unaflected by its influence. 
Some naturalists consider theFuoco 
di Legno to be the last effort of an 



expiring volcano; others pronounce 
it the precursor of a volcano, and 
promise middle Italy, before a long 
lapse of time, a terrible eruption 
from this new Vesuvius. 

The neighbouring mountains are 
unfruitful, produciiig nothing but 
sickly and stunted plants. 

Half a league from Pietra-Mala 
is a well of perfectly cold water, 
called Acqua Buja, which takes 
fire if brought into contact with 
a lighted candle. 

Covigliaioi a town succeieded by 

Giogo, where the highest point 
of this part Of the Apennines is 
touched. An almost uninterrupted 
descent leads tO 

Cafagiolo, and then to 

Machene; a solitary inn, where 
the vetturini stops to dine. 

Tagliaferro, a country place, near 
which is the conclusion of the old 
road which passed through Scar- 
peria, a town of some repute for 
its cutlery and side arms. 

These heights were formerly ex- 
posed to such sudden and boisterous 
storms of wind as to overthrow not 
only men and horses, but carriages, 
and even heavily-loaded carts ; but 
at the present time the provident 
care of the government has greatly 
lessened the danger by the con- 
struction of walls and buttresses 
sheltering the most exposed quar- 
ters. 

Fontebuona, near which is a 
country palace of the grand duke's. 
A mountain is here ascended^ and 
its summit gives a perfect view of 
Florence and the Val d'Arno — a 
landscape of varied and most sur- 
passing beauty. 

A mile from Fontebuona, to the 
left of the road, and in the heart of 
the valley, is the grove of 

Pratolino, a maisorl de plaisance 
of the ancient dukes of Tuscany, 
celebrated for the embellishments 
lavished on it by the Medici. 
The gardens displayed elaborately 
adorned fountains, hydraulic ma- 



TUSCANY. — ROUTE 108. FLORENCE. 



583 



chinery not only regulating the play 
and limits of the waters, but putting 
figures in motion and organs into 
play ; from the depths of a thicket 
rose a colossal form called the Genius 
of the Apennines — at his feet a huge 
monster vomited a stream of water ; 
the interior could be entered, and 
presented a grotto filled with shells, 
and cooled with numerous jets d'eau ; 
— there were, moreover, a profusion 
of statues, urns, water- works, ter- 
races, amphitheatres, labyrinths, and 
evergreen alleys- Bernard Buonta- 
lente, the famous architect, ex- 
hausted all the resources of his art 
in creating this scene of enchant- 
ment. It has been asserted that 
these grounds, the total demolition 
of which is so deeply to Le re- 
gretted, served as a model for the 
park, gardens, and fountains of Yer- 
sailles. 

Two ranges of hills, rich in oil 
and wine, in vineyards and olive 
groves, stretch with the road to 

Trespiano^ where it runs along 
the boundary of a modern cemetery. 
A triumphal arch, raised in 1739, in 
honour of the entry of Francis I. as 
grand duke, into his capital, pre- 
cedes the gate which admits into 
Florence. The arch is a magnificent 
work, and a seemly introduction to 
the sanctuary of the arts and sci- 
ences : but hardly is the gate of St. 
Gallo passed, when the eye is pained 
with the wretched aspect of this part 
of the city; it is difficult to believe 
that this is the far-famed seat of the 
princely house of the Medici. One 
may compare the meanness of this 
entrance into Florence to the humble | 
door of a house, crowded with master- 
pieces in every art, but without the 
exterior exhibiting a single sign of 
the wealth within — a practice not 
uncommon with the more opulent 
inhabitants of many cities in the 
east. 



FLORENCE. 

Hotels: Hotel d^Kalie, formerly 
the residence of Queen Caroline 
Murat. This house is pleasantly 
situated on the bank of the Arno, 
one front with the entrance in the 
street, and the other overlooking the 
river, commanding beautiful and ex- 
tensive views. The writer of that part 
of Murray's ' Northern Italy'* re- 
lating to Florence, has done the pro- 
prietor of this house, M. Baldi, great 
injustice, by stating that in conse- 
quence of the great heat and musqui- 
toes it is only recommendable for four 
months in the year. If this is true 
as regards the Hotel d'ltalie, it must 
be equally so with the Grande Bre- 
tagne, Arno, Four Nations, and other 
hotels, on the same side of the river 
and similarly exposed ; but Mr. 
Murray has been imposed upon 
here, as well as in hundreds of other 
places, by his numerous fantastical 
contributors. The house is as free 
from musquitoes as any in Florence, 
which has been testified by hun- 
dreds who have slept in it since the 
above paragraph appeared ; and for 
style and comfort none can be better. 

Albergo G-rancl Bretagne, pro- 
prietor, Messrs. Angelo and Caprini. 
This hotel, most delightfully situated 
on the Arno, is one of the very best, 
yet the immaculate writer of ' North- 
ern Italy' places this house after the 
York Hotel, which will bear a com- 
parison with the Grande Bretagne, 
just the same as a farthing rushlight 
will with a wax candle. Mr. Mur- 
ray, in one of his Hand -Books, says 
that "the inns first mentioned are 



* The writer of the Second Edition cf 
Northern Italy, however, has in most 
places adopted the characters of the 
various hotels from my first edition. 
Oh, fie ! Mr. Mmray ! to take hints from 
Coghlan, when you so liberally pay your 
collectors. 



584 



NORTHERN ITALY. —ROUTE 108. FLORENCE, HOTELS. 



supposed to be the best." The Bre- 
tagne consists of two lai-ge houses, 
communicating below and above,^ — 
and certainly they present an appear- 
ance of comfort that cheers one's 
heart. The wide and convenient 
staircases are carpeted from the 
bottom to the fourth story, and the 
style and quantity of useful and 
ornamental furniture in all the apart- 
ments are perfect ; in short, I do 
not know, in any part of the conti- 
nent, an hotel which offers so many 
temptations in the shape of situation, 
size, cleanliness, good and well- 
served dinners, capital wine, civility, 
and attention. Hotel lies Britan- 
nique^ a good and comfortable house, 
belonging to Mr. Baldi, the pro- 
prietor of the Hotel d'ltalie, situate 
on the opposite side of the Arno ; it 
is conducted by Mrs. Baldi, who is a 
very intelligent, lady-like English- 
woman. — Europe. This hotel is 
situated in the Piazza St. Trinita, 
with a table d'hote at four o'clock, 
at 5 pauls ; breakfast, 3 pauls ; ba- 
chelor's apartments, 5 pauls per 
night. — Hotel du Nord, also in the 
Piazza Trinita ; bed rooms for single 
perbons, 5 pauls ; a very good table 
d'hote at five o'clock, 5 pauls ; 
breakfast, 3 pauls. — Schneider's Ho- 
tel. 

Apartments abound in every di- 
rection, but particularly on the Arno. 
It is impossible to give any thing 
approaching a price, as so much de- 
pends, in addition to size and situa- 
tion, on the season. In September 
the rents may be said to commence 
looking up ; in November they are 
so high that persons with low funds 
get to the highest rooms. The people 
in Florence who let, say that houses 
and apartments are cheaper in Flo- 
rence than in Rome, and the letters 
in Rome say you may have apart- 
ments at your own price — if you call 
in summer; but very good apart- 
ments, consisting of four bed rooms, 
two sitting rooms, servant's room, . 



and kitchen, may be had for about 
80 francescone (61.) a month ; more 
or less rooms will be in proportion; 
two rooms well situated may be had 
for about 8 francescone a month, or 
20 pauls a week. 

Board and lodging. Miss Clark 
having removed to a splendid house 
on the sunny side of the Arno, has 
rendered her establishment exceed- 
ingly desirable; it is well conducted, 
and the charges reasonable. 

Cafes. — That of Doney, Piazza 
Trinita, is the best and most fre- 
quented ; coffee with a loaf and 
butter, 1 paul ; coffee noir, 2 crazie. 
The flowers girls (i. e. ladies of a 
certain age) present the gentlemen 
who are in the habit of taking their 
breakfasts here with a nosegay every 
morning ; to those who are likely, to 
stay some time they will open an 
account. In the evening, when the 
florists are pursuing their avocation 
on the Casine, this and other cafes 
are besieged by \ endors of marbles, 
mosaics, and alabaster ornaments ; 
offer just half what they ask, and 
as in nine cases out of ten you will 
be sure to get the article, be good 
enough to place the other half to my 
credit. 

Restaurateurs. — The best are the 
L'Aquila d'Oro, Borgo St. Apostoli, 
La Stella, Via Calzajuolo,La Luna, 
<fec. ; here one may dine a la carte, 
from 2 pauls to 2 francescone. 

The Florentine table is plentifully 
and delicately served. The veal, 
lamb, poultry, sturgeon, grayling, 
tunny, oysters, anchovies, and rag- 
nuoli, a species of lobster from the 
lake of Biguglia, Corsica, are all 
excellent. The fresh butter from 
the casino of the Grand duke is 
still stamped with the balls (palle) 
of the Medici. The ham (prosiutto) 
of Casentino is considered the best 
in Itaty. 

Tuscany produces several es- 



TUSCANY. — ROUTE 108. PLOEENCE. BOOKSELLERS. 



585 



teemed species of muslirooms with 
which the market of Florence is 
plentifully supplied. The most noted 
are, the spugniola, steecherini, cic- 
ciola, prognolo di maremma, cocolla, 
bianca, and particularly the novolo 
ordinario. 

Fruit. — The delicious red, white, 
or black grapes, in large long 
bunches, called pergolese, from the 
trellis on which they are trained, 
and brameste by the old Florentine 
authors, are the brumaste of the an- 
cients, so named from a Greek word 
signifying cow's teat. The pergo- 
lese is gathered three times a-year, in 
September, November, and in Janu- 
ary. This last -vintage gives no 
wine; but after selecting the bunches 
fit to oat, the remainder is used to 
make the agresto, a white acid li- 
quor employed in the kitchen instead 
of lemon juice. Delicious peaches, 
strawberries, and figs. 

Wines. — Aleatico,astrong,heady, 
red wine ; vino Sante, a sweet white 
wine, and Muscadello ; other sorts 
of white wines are healthy and re- 
cherche. The price varies from 3 
to 4 pauls a liask (two bottles). 
The Chianti is also an excellent red 
wine, which may be had in large 
or small bottles ; the latter costs 
If paul. 

Bankers. — Although there are a 
great number of respectable banking 
firms in Florence, the principal con- 
nected with English travellers, are 
Maguay, Pakenham, cfeCo., Piazza 
Santa Trinita. This respectable 
firm have branch banks, at Rome, 
and other places. Fenzi and Hall, 
Piazza Grand Duca; Plowden and 
French, near the Cafe Doney, are 
Catholic bankers. 

Agent. — Mr. Samuel Lowe, at 
the corner of the Piazza Trinita, 
corresponds with the principal agents 
in London. Mr. Lowe also transacts 
business as a banker ; strangers will 
find every attention and civility 
from this gentleman, who has been es- 
tablished in Florence for many years. 



English divine service is performed 
twice every Sunday in the church, 
Yia della Aqua. 

Physicia7is. — It is important to 
know that there are several English 
medical men residing in Florence. 
Those enjoying the most practice, I 
believe, are Dr. Harding, and Sir 
Charles Herbert ; native physicians 
are Drs. Bufalini and Alberti ; sur- 
geons Zannetti and Andrei ; the 
most celebrated accoucheur is Dr. 
Mazzoni, 

English Chemist. — Mr. Koberts, 
near the Piazza Trinita, has lately 
commenced business, who makes up 
prescriptions with care and prompti- 
tude. All the English patent me- 
dicines may be had on reasonable- 
terms. 

Hackney Coaches. — There is no 
authorized tax for the fare of car- 
riages j much therefore depends upon 
the weather, demand, or humour of 
the driver as to what may be the sum 
fixed upon ; the average charge in 
ordinary cases is 3 pauls for the first 
hour, and 2 pauls for each succeeding 
hour within the gates. For a drive 
ta the Casine, and indeed in all cases,, 
a bargain should be previously 
made. 

Carriages furnished by the hotel 
are charged 25 pauls a day j half a. 
day, 15 pauls. 

Saddle-horses, 10 pauls a day ; 
5 pauls half a day ; and 3 pauls an 
liour. 

Booksellers. — Mr Molini, jun.^ 
in the Yia Archibusieri, is an in- 
telligent, well-informed, and oblig- 
ing tradesman, and speaks English 
remarkably well, and I take this 
opportunity of acknowledging the 
extreme kindness and attention I 
received. Mr. Molini suffered to a 
great extent by the immdation on 
the morning of Sunday the 3rd of 
November, 1844. The water reach- 
ed up to the glass-cases of the shop, 
and left a settlement of solid mud 
exceeding one foot in depth. An 
I immense quantity of most valuable 



686 NORTHERN ITALY.— ROUTE 108. FLORENCE. PASSPORTS. 



works were so damaged by the water 
and dirt as to be rendered valueless. 
In this establishment travellers will 
find every description of guidebooks, 
maps, interpreters, and also the 
most popular works in every lan- 
guage. Galignani's paper is taken 
in for the use of strangers. There 
are many other booksellers and print 
^shops in various parts of Florence ; 
several on the Arno. 

Reading Room. — Vieusseux, in 
Piazza Trinita, near the Hotel du 
Nordj takes in for the use of sub- 
scribers a great assortment of Eng- 
lish, Italian, French, and German 
papers. As this is the only one in 
Florence it may with safety be 
" strongly recommended." 

The Post office, in the Piazza 
Ducca, is open daily from nine till 
four. Letters depart for and arrive 
daily from England. The Tuscan 
postage must be paid. 

The best baths are in the Borgo 
St. Apostoli. The charge for a 
single bath is about 2 pauls, includ- 
ing linen. 

There are two clubs in Florence, 
one exclusively belonging to the no- 
bility ; the other, the Casino, com- 
prehends nobility, gentry ,professional 
men, and respectable shopkeepers ; 
to the latter strangers may be intro- 
duced by a member for a few days. 
This establishment, which is on a 
very extensive scale, comprises a 
magnificent ball room, besides card 
and billiard rooms, dining and 
smoking room. 

Passports. — On quitting Florence 
par ierre for Rome, the signature of 
the English minister and the pope's 
nuncio are required, but to go par 
mare, the English vise (and in every 
case the police) will save time 
and pauls in Leghorn ; but it must 
again receive the signature of the 
consul for Rome before you will 
be allowed to embark, or if you 
were to escape the vigilance of the 
steam-packet people and police at 
Leghorn, on arrival at Civita Yecchia 



you would not be allowed to pro- 
ceed. 

Diligences from the coach office 
on the Arno for Rome, twice a week. 
Tuesdays and Saturdays, by Sienne, 
in forty -two hours ; fare, 75 frs. 

Bologna, Mondays, Wednesdays, 
and Saturdays, in the evening; fare, 
23 frs. 

Milan, same days ; fare, 63 frs. 

Pisa, every evening except Sun- 
day ; fare, 9 frs. 

Leghorn, every evening at six 
o'clock, Sunday excepted ; fare, 
12 frs. 

Compagnie Franyais has an office 
in the Piazza Trinita, from whence 
a diligence starts every evening 
about seven, in twelve hours, to 
Leghorn, through Pisa. 

Vetturini to Rome, by Sienne, in 
five days, taking four persons, every- 
thing included except buona mano 
for 40 scudi or dollars ; to Venice, 
the same. Be particular in making 
an agreement— everything specified, 
nothing left to chance. For instruc- 
tions, see Introduction. Families 
having their own carriage should in- 
variably post. The expense of a 
pair of horses from Florence to 
Rome, including postilions and gar- 
fon d-'ecurie, would be 186 frs., or 
37 francescone: this does not in- 
clude extra horses going up the 
hills ; so that persons travelling en 
vetturini will get to Rome for the 
same sum, with board and lodging, 
that a person travelling in their own 
carriage will pay for horses only. 
If there are three or four persons, 
more horses must be put to, which 
renders the dijBTerence in the expense 
much greater, 

Florence, the capital of Tuscany, 
is a place of great antiquity, found- 
ed, as Machiavel says, by the mer- 
chants of Fiesole, and augmented 
by colonies sent from Rome. In 
Sylla's time it was called Fluentia, 
because of the streams which fall 
near it into the Arno ; and after- 
wards Florentia, irom its flourishing 



TUSCANY. — ROUTE 108. FLOBENCE. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 



587 



condition. After the decline of the 
Roman empire it went through a 
great many revolutions, and became 
at length a free state, in which 
condition it continued for some 
time, till the family of Medicis 
acquired the sovereignty of the 
city and country, imder the title of 
Grand Duke of Tuscany. It is a 
large, beautiful, flourishing city, 
pleasantly situated in a fruitful 
vaUey, on the river Arno, encom- 
passed with beautiful hills, almost 
in the form of an amphitheatre, on 
three sides. These hiUs are full of 
villages, country seats, gardens, 
groves, and woods of olives rising 
gradually, tiU they reach the high- 
est tops of the Apennines. Towards 
the west lies that rich valley, wa- 
tered by the river Arno, which 
extends as far as Pisa, abounding 
in com, wine, oil, and delicious 
fruits. The town is about seven 
miles in circumference, and is di- 
vided by the river Arno into two 
parts, that communicate by four 
stone and two suspension bridges, but 
one of the latter was washed away 
during the inundation in Xo v. 1844. 
The streets are straight and weU 
paved, in imitation of the old Eoman 
highways, with great flat stones. 
The private buildings are lofty, the 
palaces numerous and well con- 
trived, and the churches very little 
inferior to those of Rome ; insomuch 
that this city has deservedly ob- 
tained the name of Florence the 
Fair. 

The quays on the banks of the 
Arno are called Lmigo de I'Arno ; 
they have noble mansions and pa- 
laces on each side. 

The south-east quay is a very 
dehghtful promenade in winter, the 
situation being favourable for en- 
joying the sun, and also warm when 
the wind is not strong. 

The other promenades are the 
BoboH gardens, which belong to the 
palace Pitti ; the Poggio Imperiale, 
near the Roman gate, Isola, and 



the Casine, in the afternoon, or 
rather evening, where the carriages 
drive : it is the Hyde park ctf 
Florence. 

The squares in Florence are 
generally spacious, but very indif- 
ferently ornamented ; the finest, as 
to extent, is that of the Gran Duca; 
it contains the old palace, the offices, 
and the edifice called la Loggia. 
This square also contains a foun- 
tain, with a very large marble basin 
of an octagon form, erected by 
Cosmo I, in the centre of which is 
a colossal figure of Neptune stand- 
ing erect in a shell drawn by four 
horses, and encircled by figures 
representing nymphs and tritons; 

The Old Palace, in one of the 
angles of the Gran Duca, is a heavy 
and melancholy looking building, 
erected in the thirteenth century, 
intended for the centre of repubU- 
can dignity ; at the entrance is 
David triumphing over Goliath, 
said to be by IVlichael Angelo, and 
Hercules with Cacus, by Yin- 
cenzio Rossi, the pupil of Bandi- 
nelli : the interior of the court 
forms an odd contrast with the ex- 
terior, having a portico ornamented 
with columns in stucco upon a gilt 
ground, the roof being covered 
with arabesques of the school of 
Raphael ; the grand staircase is 
also adorned with arabesques, and 
leads to different halls, one of them 
of immense size, in a very neglected 
condition, containing large frescoes 
representing the most celebrated 
actions of the Florentine repubhc. 
The palace is also ornamented 
with a lofty tower, erected by 
Arnofo, and considered a chef- 
d'oeuvre of architecture, and 

The Loggia (or open gallery) 
is adorned with Judith and Holo- 
fernes, by DonateUo, in bronze ; 
Perseus with Medusa's head, by 
CeUini, also in bronze ; a Young 
Warrior carrying off" a Sabine 
Female ; a bas-relief on the pedes- 
tal representing the Rape of the 



588 



NORTHERN ITALY.— ROUTE 108. PALAZZO PITTI 



Sabines ; two lions, and six antique 
statues of Eoman priestesses, all 
in marble. 

The Palazzo Pitti was begun 
from the designs of Filippo Brunel- 
lesco, and finished by Amman- 
nati in 1440; this is in every re- 
spect a noble and elegant palace, 
a view of which will give great 
pleasure to the traveller, as it con- 
tains a choice collection of paint- 
ings, to enter into a detailed ac- 
count of which would far ex- 
ceed the limits of this work ; 
besides, in this case particularly, 
it is unnecessary, as in each room, of 
which there are fifteen, there are 
two or three printed catalogues, 
rather more to be depended on 
than the Hand Book of Murray, 
who states that Canova's Venus is 
to be found in a chamber to herself, 
when it is a great fact, that she has 
re-occupied her present position for 
several years — ten at least. The 
rooms worthy of notice are fourteen 
in number ; in the gallery Flora 
is the celebrated Venus of Canova, 
so excellently finished as to be a 
rival of even the Venus of Medicis, 
in the Florenting gallery. 

Saloon of Fe/ms.— The frescoes 
on the ceiling are Minerva forcing 
a Youth (by whom is meant Cosmo 
I) from the arms of Venus, to place 
him under the guidance of Her- 
cules, while the Genius of V/ar 
shows him tho laurel wreath he 
ought to aspire after ; the Conti- 
nence of Scipio ; Antiochus quit- 
ting his Mistress to go where duty 
calls him ; Crispus, son of the 
Emperor Constantine, resisting the 
solicitations of Fausta, his stepmo- 
ther ; Cyrus dismissing his prisoner 
Panthea, that he might not be 
seduced by her charms ; Augustus 
showing Cleopatra that her beauty 
had not power to captivate him ; 
Alexander receiving the Mother 
and Wife of Darius with humanity, 
but without being betrayed into 
faulty admiration of the latter ; 



Massinissa sending poison to the 
Queen of Numidia, that she might 
avoid, by death, the disgrace of 
swelling Scipio's triumph. 

While Pietro da Cortona was 
employed in painting this ceiling, 
Ferdinando H, who came to view 
the work, expressed great admira- 
tion of a child drowned in tears. 
"See," replied the painter, "with 
what facility children are made 
either to laugh or weep !" and, so 
saying, he gave one stroke with his 
brush, and the child appeared to be 
laughing ; tOl, with another stroke, 
he restored the countenance to its 
original form. 

Ceiling of the Camera cC Apollo 
(Saloon ff Apollo). — A Youth, who 
again represents Cosmo I, inspired 
with poetic; fire, and Apollo show- 
ing him the celestial globe, that he 
may sing of its wonders ; Csesar 
attending to instructive books as 
he walks, that he may not waste 
time ; Augustus, after having shut 
the Temple of Janus, cherishing 
the Muses, and listening to the 
' -^neid ;' Alexander preparing to 
march, and taking with him part 
of the ' Hiad ;' the Emperor Jus- 
tinian forming a code of laws. 

Ceiling of the Camera di Marta 
(Saloon of Mars). — Cosmo I, under 
the form of a young warrior, leap- 
ing out of a boat, and combating 
with his lance, while Mars assists 
him by darting lightning at his 
enemies ; Castor and Pollux carry- 
ing the spoils of the vanquished to 
Hercules, who makes them into a 
trophy; Captives loaded with chains 
supplicating the Goddess of Victory, 
Peace, with the olive branch in her 
hand, giving them comfort, while 
Abundance revives, and scatters 
blessings among the conquered 
people. 

Ceiling of the Camera di Giove 
(Saloon of Jupiter). — Jupiter re- 
ceiving a young Hero, who still 
represents Cosmo I, and is con- 
ducted to Olympus, by Hercules 



TUSCANY. — ROUTE 108. FLORENCE. TtTBLlC BUILDINGS. 



589 



and Fortune, in order to receive a 
crown of immortality : a genius 
holds his hands before the hero's 
eyes, to prevent their being dazzled 
by the splendour of the Thunderer, 
while another Genius presents the 
young man's armour, perforated 
with javelins, to the Goddess of 
Victory, who engraves his name 
upon a shield ; she is supposed to 
have just begun, and only written 
the initial letter of the word Medicis. 
The frescoes, in form of a fan, repre- 
sent the emblems of peace ; namely, 
Minerva planting an olive tree ; 
Mars mounted on Pegasus ; Castor 
and Pollux with their horses coupled 
together ; Vulcan reposing in his 
forge ; Diana sleeping after the 
chace ; Apollo, god of arts, and Mer- 
cury, god of commerce and wealth, 
appear among the emblems of peace ; 
wMle the General of the Vanquished 
is represented as making ineffectual 
efforts to snap his chains ; in which 
attempt he is aided by Discord, 
who carries in her hand a torch to 
reliune the flames of war. 

Ceiling of the Stanza di Ercole 
{Saloon of Hercules). — Hercules on 
the Funeral PUe ; above which is 
the apotheosis of that hero, whom 
Mars and Prudence conduct to 
Olympus, where he receives a crown 
of immortality. 

In the apartments are magnifi- 
cent vases of Sevres porcelain; 
ornamented clocks; tables of Flo- 
rentine mosaic works : they are 
elegantly furnished. The paint 
ings may be seen from nine in the 
morning till three in the afternoon, 
every day except Sunday; the band 
plays every morning, from ten till 
half-past, before the palace. No 
fees are allowed to be taken. 

The Giardino di Boboli, open to 
the public on Sundays and Thurs- 
days, is very large, and contains 
several pieces of sculpture ; the j 
most remarkable of which are two 
Dacian prisoners, in oriental por- 
phyry, at the entrance; facing the 



entrance are a curious grotto, a co- 
lossal Ceres, the fountain of Nep- 
tune, standing on a granite basin 
above twenty feet in diameter, with 
the Ganges, Nile, and Euphrates be- 
neath, aU by Giovanni di Bologna ; 
Neptune, in bronze, surrounded 
with sea monsters, by Lorenzi; 
and four unfinished statues by 
Michael Angelo. Adjoining the 
palace is the 

Museo d'lstoria Naturale, said 
to be the finest museum existing, 
with respect to the anatomical 
preparations in wax, and the pre- 
trifactions and minerals. 

The famous representation of 
the Plague was done by Abate Zum- 
bo, a Sicilian of a melancholy cast of 
character, in the days of the Medi- 
cis ; these representations in wax are 
so true to nature, that few persons 
can bear to examine them ; they ex- 
hibit the terrible details of the plague 
and the charnel house in all their 
minutiae, including the decomposi- 
tion of the human frame, the black- 
ening, the swelling, and the bursting 
of the trunk, with the worm, the rat, 
the tarantula engaged in their horri- 
ble work, and the mushroom spring- 
ing up in the midst of corruption. 
Below stairs is the laboratory: on 
the first floor are rooms filled with 
quadrupeds, fishes, &c. &c. ; also 
apartments for mathematics, elec- 
tricity, hydraulics, mechanics, and a 
handsome library of upwards of 
20,000 volumes, arranged as follows : 

1. Astronomy, simple mathematics; 

2. Physics, general philosophy ; 3. 
Natural history ; 4. Medicine, 
surgery, and anatomy; 5. Che- 
mistry; 6. Dictionaries, Encyclo- 
pedias, various arts; 7. Acts of 
the academy and periodical works ; 
8. Geography, voyages, chrono- 
logy ; 9. Various manuscripts. 
On the second floor, in a suit of 
apartments, are birds fishes, rep- 
tiles, insects, shells, fossils, mine- 
rals, and wax plants : the birds are 
represented sitting upon branches, 



590 NORTffl&KN ITALT.— ROUTE 108. FLORENCE. ROYAL GALLERY. 



with their names, eggs, and nests 
Tinderneath. On the same floor 
are about twenty rooms containing 
the anatomical preparations in wax ; 
those of the female form and of 
the plague cannot be seen without 
the guide, being closed from public 
inspection ; two or three pauls are 
given, according to the size of the 
party. The medical and botanical 
plants and drugs are in a room by 
themselves; and the plants in the 
botanical garden attached to the 
museum are arranged according to 
the classification of Linnseus. Seve- 
ral professors' chairs are established 
here, lectures being delivered on 
mineralogy, chemistry, &c. The 
observatory is furnished with in- 
struments made in London. 

Many other places in Florence, 
which although by no means of 
the immense size of Pitti Palace, 
are still very beautiful, and well 
worthy of notice ; their style of 
building however is much the same, 
having square courts in the cen- 
tre, sometimes embellished with a 
fountain and an open gallery run- 
ning round ; some of them have the 
appearance of much grandeur, 
particularly the Palazzo Riccardi, 
in the Via Larga, once the residence 
of the Medici, and the first asylum 
of the Muses at Florence: it was 
built in 1430, under Cosmo, then 
gonfalonier of the republic, and was 
for some time the residence of 
Charles V, Louis XII, Francis I, 
Leo X, and Clement VII. The 
ceilings of the library and gallery 
are beautifully painted by Luc 
Giordano, and it has a valuable 
collection of printed books and ma- 
nuscripts. 

Among the other palaces worthy 
of notice are Gezini, still adorned 
with some very fine paintings, 
Corsini, Strozzl, Gondi, Mozzi, 
Capponi, Uguccioni, Viviani, and 
others. Upon the walls of these 
palaces are large iron rings, a mark 
of distinction to the owner; and 



the walls themselves are of stich a 
construction as to defy cannon 
shot, a consideration of great im-* 
portance in the stormy times of 
the Florentine republic. This city 
is indebted to Michael Angelo and 
his school for the general good 
taste which presides over its archi- 
tecture. 

The Palazzo Buonarotti, or the 
house in which Michael Angelo 
Buonarotti resided, is in the Via 
Ghibellina ; it contains some paint- 
ings representing the principal ac- 
tions of his lifej chiefly by his own 
hand. 

The Royal Galbry.— This is by 
far the most valuable treasure 
Florence possesses ; it is an im- 
mense building close upon the old 
palace. Cosmo I had this cele- 
brated building erected by Vasari, 
in the sixteenth century ; indeed it 
is to the Medici family principally 
that Florence owes this noble col- 
lection, and the late Archduke 
Leopold, following the same liberal 
and generous policy, declared this 
gallery the property of the nation. 
In the staircase leading to the 
royal gallery, between the windows, 
is a statue of Bacchus ; the first 
vestibule contains a statue of Mars, 
another of Silenus, with the infant 
Bacchus in bronze, and ten busts 
of the princes of the house of Me- 
dici ; the second vestibule contains 
a horse in marble, two quadrangu- 
lar columns, on one is a head of 
Cybele, and on the other a bust of 
Jupiter ; the wild boar, a celebrated 
antique, said to be of Grecian 
sculpture ; statues of Trajan and 
Augustus, two wolf-dogs,- and a 
bust of Leopold. On passing 
through the vestibule, we enter the 
first corrider of this immense gal- 
lery, the ceilings of which are 
adorned with arabesques, and close 
under them is a fine series of five 
hundred portraits of illustrious 
characters in chronological order. 
Among the most remarkable busts 



TUSCANY. —ROUTE 108. PLOHENCE. IL DUOMO. 



591 



and statutes in the corridors site 
those of Nero, Otho, Titus, Anto- 
ninus Pius, Marcus Aurelius, 
Alexander Severus, very rare; ^ 
fine bust of Caracalla, called by 
connoisseurs " the last sigh of the 
art;" the Venus of Belvidere, as- 
cribed to Phidias ; and at the bot- 
tom of the third corridor is the 
copy of the Laocoon, by Bandinelli. 
The octagon hall, called the Tri- 
bune, is paved with various co- 
loured marbles, and contains the 
most admirable specimens of sculp- 
ture and painting. Here is the 
famous Venus de Medici, supposed 
to have been the work of Praxiteles ; 
the celebrated Apollo, called Apo- 
lino ; the Lottatori, or the Wrest- 
lers ; the Arrotino, or the Grinder ; 
and the Fauns; these are evidently 
the productions of the best ages of 
ancient sculpture, and excellently 
restored by Buonarotti. The statue 
of the Venus de Medici, when 
found, was broken in twelve or 
thirteen places^ and the hands are 
modern ; it is about five English 
feet in height,^ and altogether ex 
quisite. Besides the two vestibules, 
three corridors, and hall, already 
mentioned, this museum of the 
fine arts contains the following 
apartments full of antiquities — 
Hall of Niobe, cabinets of modern 
and antique bronzes in fourteen 
glass cases, cabinet of Greek and 
Latin inscriptions, Egyptian monu- 
ments, &c. &c ; portraits of paint- 
ers, chiefly done by themselves, in 
two large apartments ; cabinets with 
pictures of the Venetian, French, 
Flemish, Dutch, Italian, and Tuscan 
schools ; cabinet of the hermaphro- 
dite, and cabinets of gems, &c. ; in 
all, two vestibules^ three corridors, 
twohalls, and twelve cabinets. Some 
of the cabinets are kept locked, 
and must be seen with a guide. 
The Fabbrica de gli Ufizii com- 
prehends the royal gallery; it 
was built by Vasari ; the exterior 
is adorned with Doric columns, and 



forms two magnificent porticos, 
imited at one end by an arch, over 
which is a statue of Cosmo I, with 
two recumbent figures of Equity 
and Rigour, by Vicenzo Danti. 
The Magliabechiana library is 
under the same roof with the gal- 
lery ; it is here where the Floren- 
tine academy meet ; it is rich in 
manuscripts and printed books ; 
the gallery and library are open 
from nine till three o'clock every 
day, festivals excepted. 

II Duomo, or the cathedral called 
St Maria del Fiore, is situated 
nearly in the centre of the city ; it 
was begun in 1296, from the designs 
of Arnolfo, and finished about 1442 
by Brunellesco. It is a vast edifice, 
426 feet in length and 353 in width; 
the outward walls of this immense 
church are incrusted with various 
coloured marble, and the pavement 
is also marble; the superb cupola, 
an octagon of 140 feet from one 
angle to the other, was likewise 
completed by Brunellesco, and the 
interior was painted by Fred. Zuc- 
cheri. Many distinguished person- 
ages in the early times of the 
Floraitine republic have curious 
monuments here; on the side wall 
of the interior is a curious eques- 
trian painted figure of Sir John 
Hawkwood, an Englishman, who 
signalised himself in the service of 
the Florentines, and died in 1393. 
Behind the high altar is a marble 
Pieta, said to have been the last 
work of Buonarotti, and which he 
was prevented from finishing by 
death; and on the altar are three 
statues, of God the Father, our 
Saviour, and an Angel, by Ban- 
dinelli; near the door leading to 
the Via de Servi is an antique 
portrait of Dante, the father of 
Italian poetry, done by Andrea 
Orgagna; in the piazza of the 
cathedral is pointed out the Sassa 
di Dante, a favourite stone upon 
which the poet used to sit, but his 
tomb is at Ravenna, where he died ; 



592 



NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 108. FLORENCE. CHURCHES. 



for without any crime, and unmind- 
ful of his services, he was stripped 
of his fortune and banished, and 
his ungrateful country was not 
worthy to contain his ashes; his 
name now, however, too late, is 
looked up to with veneration and 
respect. The meridian in this church 
is said to be the largest astronomical 
instrument in Europe. 

The Campanile, or Belfry, is a 
quadrangular edifice designed by 
Giotti, and begun in 1334; it is 260 
feet in height, cased with marble 
of different colours, and considered 
the most beautiful edifice of its 
kind in Italy ; from the top a beau- 
tiful view of Florence and its en- 
virons is obtained. Opposite the ca- 
thedral is the baptistery, dedicated 
to St John the Baptist ; it is an 
octagon figure, the exterior is in- 
crusted with polished marble, and 
its three bronze doors are so beau- 
tiful that Michael Angelo Buona- 
rotti used to call them the gates of 
Paradise ; the bas-reliefs with which 
they are adorned are most admira- 
ble, the most ancient is by Andrea 
Ugolini of Pisa, and the other two 
by Lorenzo Ghiberti. The ceiling 
is covered with mosaics by Appo- 
lonius, Teffi, and Gaddi ; in the 
interior are sixteen immense pillars 
of granite, which support a gallery, 
and between them are statues re- 
presenting the twelve apostles, by 
Ammannati; the high altar and the 
ornaments of the pulpit are by 
Ticciati, the principal of which is a 
statue of St John transported to 
heaven by angels. 

The Church of St Lorenzo, rebuilt 
in 1425, by Brunellesco, is divided 
into three naves by two rows of 
columns which support a frieze and 
cornices, and have a very good 
effect : the high altar is a beautiful 
piece of Florentine work, executed 
by command of the Grand Duke 
Leopold. The new sacristy, de- 
signed by Buonarotti, contains the 
tomb of William de Medici, Duke 



of Nemours, and brother to LeoX, 
with the tomb of Lorenzo de 
Medici, Duke of Urbino ; this small 
chapel is enriched with several 
statues by Buonarotti, equal to the 
finest of his works; but what ren- 
ders this church so celebrated is 
the chapel of the Medici, begun in 
1604, by Fernando L This mag- 
nificent mausoleum of the princes 
of Medicis is an octagon, and the 
beauty and richness of its materials, 
with their high polish and finishing, 
are beyond imagination; the inside 
is entirely incrusted with siliceous 
stones of the richest kind, and the 
most valuable marbles : on a lofty 
basement running round the chapel 
are represented the arms of the 
different cities subject to the grand 
duke; six sides of the octagon are 
embellished with sarcophagi of 
oriental granite ; here are two bronze 
statues, one by John of Bologna, 
and the other by Pietro Tacca. 
The chapel of the Medici may be 
seen daily from nine o'clock in the 
morning till three in the afternoon; 
no fee allowed to be taken. 

The Church of Santa Maria No- 
vella, in the Piazza Nuovana, was 
begun in 1279, and was so much- 
admired by Michael Angelo that he 
commonly called it his sposa ; it is 
covered within and without with 
black and white marble : the paint- 
ings are by some of the best mas- 
ters : the high altar was erected in 
1804; its altar piece is by Sabatello. 

The Dominican Church of San 
Marco is a handsome building, 
ornamented with good sculpture 
and valuable paintings ; it contains 
the works of John of Bologna, 
Fra. Bartolomeo, the monuments 
of Angelo Poliziano, the restorer 
of the Greek and Latin languages, 
and John Mirandula, called the 
Phoenix of the Sciences ; also that 
of Savonarola, whose portrait and 
cell are still shown to strangers. 
The monks of the Dominican con- 
vent have an excellent apothe- 



TUSCANY, — KOUTE 108. FLORENCE. CHURCHES. 



593 



Gary's shop, celebrated for good and 
cheap medicines, particularly an 
aromatic vinegar very useful to 
take on a journey to Rome ; they 
also sell all sorts of washes, poma- 
tums, perfumes, &c. &c. 

The Church of the Annunziata 
contains the remains of John of 
Bologna, behind the altar in a cha- 
pel ; his tomb is adorned with a 
crucifix and bas-reliefs in bronze, 
after his design, and at his own ex- 
pense, as an epitaph expresses it ; 
he died in Florence in 1608. Ad- 
joining this chapel is an oratory 
fitted up by the last of the Medici 
line, the daughter of Cosmo III, 
who married the Elector of Bava 
ria ; and in this church is Baudi- 
nelli's Dead Christ in marble : in a 
corridor on the left is the celebrated 
fresco of Andrea del Sarto, deemed 
his master- piece, and called La 
Madonna del Sacco ; the portico 
of the porch is also painted by this 
great artist . but he is buried in 
the open vestibule before the 
church. 

The Church of San Spirito is 
very lofty, and well lighted ; it was 
erected by Brunei lesco, and in 
point of architecture it is the finest 
church in Elorence. The Cappella 
Maggiore is very beautiful, richly 
incrusted with precious marbles, 
and adorned with statues ; here 
are also a number of good paint- 
ings and numerous columns of 
Pietra Serena. 

The Church of Santa Croce, the 
Pantheon of the Florentines, was 
.built in 1297, from the designs of 
Arnolfo, and afterwards repaired 
by Vasari ; it is a vast edifice, and 
well calculated to promote religious 
contemplation. On the right, as 
you enter, is the tomb of Michael 
Angelo Buonarotti, exhibiting his 
bust, sculptured by himself, with 
three crowns : below is a sarco- 
phagus with Painting, Sculpture, 
and Architecture deploring the 
loss their favourite ; here is also 



his picture of Jesus Christ and 
the Holy Women : this great man 
was born at Chiusi, near Arezzo, 
in 1474, and died at Rome in 1.563, 
but the Grand Duke of Tuscany 
ordered his remains to be removed 
and buried in this church. One 
of the finest monuments here is 
that to the memory of Alfieri the 
poet, by Canova ; it is entirely of 
white marble, and exhibits a sar- 
cophagus adorned with masks, 
lyres, laurel leaves, with a head of 
Alfieri in bas-relief. Italy is re- 
presented as a female crowned with 
flowers, weeping over the remains 
of her poet. There are many 
other monuments in this church, 
among which are the following : — 
that of Pietro Michelli, called by 
Linneeus the Lynx of Botany ; 
Nardini, the celebrated musician ; 
Fantonia, the mathematician ; Are- 
tino, the historian ; Machiavelli, 
erected 266 years after his decease, 
by the Literati ; this monument 
is simple but elegant ; it ex- 
hibits a figure of Justice. Also 
that of the illustrious and much- 
injured Gahleo ; his bust is by 
Foggini. GaUleo was first inter- 
red in the unconsecrated ground 
of the Piazza Santa Croce, lying 
under the suspicion of heresy on 
account of his philosophical disco- 
veries ; and it was almost a century 
after his decease before leave was 
obtained to remove his bones into 
the church. 

The Chapel of Niccolini, belonging 
to the Santa Croce, was built after 
the design of Antonio Dosio ; it is 
worthy of notice, on account of the 
mausoleums, statues, paintings, and 
frescoes with which it is adorned. 
The choir, the sacristy, and the 
convent of St Croce, contain some 
of the best paintings which distin- 
guish the restoration of the art by 
Giotto, Ciraabue, and others. The 
library, the noviciate, and the cha- 
pel Pazzi Brunellesco are also worth 
seeing. 



594 



KOKTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 108. FLORENCF. COMMERCE. 



Theatres. — Florence has three 
theatres, the Pergola,or Opera house, 
the Coco mero, smaller than the Per- 
gola, for comedies, &c., and the 
Teatro Nuova. 

La Pergola is a beautiful edifice, 
erected in 1755, after the design of 
Pietro Tacca ; the inside is spacious 
and handsome, having five stories 
of boxes; the admission to the pit 
is three pauls, while perfect liberty 
is giren to leave the pit and go 
and converse with a friend in 
the boxes; but this is only one 
of the proofs how far a very mo- 
derate income will support a sin- 
gle individual or a family in this 
charming town. 

The festivals and holidays of 
the church are numerous, and 
carefully attended to in Italy, the 
inhabitants shutting up their shops, 
and giving up the day, after 
service, to amusement ; but the 
principal festivals here are the cha- 
riot races on St John's eve in the 
Piazza Si Maria Nuovana ; and in 
the afternoon of St John's day 
(being the patron saint of Florence) 
the horse races take place in the 
Corso dei Barberi, the longest street 
in Florence. ' The grand duke, 
with the troops, and company make 
a splendid appearance, and in the 
evening there is a pretty exhibition 
of fire-works at the Palazzo Vec- 
chio. 

Florence has had the honour of 
giving education to a greater num- 
ber of distinguished artists and 
eminent individuals than almost 
any other city in Italy ; among the 
number are Dante, Petrarch, Boc- 
caccia. Gorilla, Machiavelli, Galileo, 
Michael Angelo Buonarotti, and 
others. 

Florence abounds with industri- 
ous and ingenious mechanics. Very 
excellent satin and silks, particu- 
larly the plain sorts, are made here . 
capital woollens of every species. 
Dyeing, especially black, is in great 
perfection. Carriages, musical in« 



struments, mathematical instru- 
ments, &c. &Cm are elegant and 
good ; also a kind of mock mosaic, 
an admirable imitation. The Leg- 
horn hats are made in great quanti- 
ties. 

The Florentines are attached to 
learning, the arts, and sciences ; 
they are in general good hearted, 
friendly, and amiable, while the 
great body of the people are more 
polished than in almost any other 
part of Italy ; and the style of lan- 
guage used even by the peasantry 
is good ; they are also industrious 
and ingenious in business. The 
Tuscan peasantry, as a body, are 
pure in their morals, and pastoral 
in their way of living ; their diet 
is light, consisting of bread, fruit, 
pulse, a very little butcher's meat, 
and the ordinary wine of the coun- 
try, notwithstanding which they 
work very hard, even in the hottest 
weather, and commonly arrive at 
old age. Before being much ex- 
posed to the sun both sexes are 
comely, and the Arcadian dresses, 
with the fine countenances of the 
female peasantry, particularly in 
the neighbourhood of Florence, 
render them very attractive. The 
nobility and opulent people are ele- 
gant in their manners, pleasing in 
their conversation, and kind and 
attentive to strangers and foreigners. 
The female fashions here are neither 
French nor Enghsh, but a mixture 
of both, which is very pretty. The 
ladies are tall and handsome, with 
large soft black eyes, a fine fore- 
head, and expressive countenance. 
The society here is excellent. 

Environs of Florence. — In describe 
ing the environs of this and other 
towns on the continent I must cau- 
tion the traveller against allowing 
his expectations to be too much 
raised, for excepting the environs of 
Naples, which are certainly the 
most interesting in the world, I 
hardly know any others worth 
much trouble. or fatigue. We shall 



TUSCANY.— ROUTE 108. ENVIRONS. ROUTE 10^. 



595 



begin with Fiesole, anciently 
FsesulsB, one of the twelve great 
cities of Etruria, about three 
miles distant from the Porta 
Pinti. In consequence of the 
frequent wars which raged for se- 
veral centuries successively, Fiesole 
was several times destroyed, and it 
has now little or nothing to recom- 
mend it but a charming view of 
Florence and the Val d'Arno. Here 
is an ancient temple converted into 
a church, supposed to have been 
originally dedicated to Bacchus, 
containing fourteen columns with 
Ionic capitals, with the altar and 
pavement of the ancient building. 
The modern Fiesole has a cathedral, 
built in 1028, an episcopal palace, a 
seminary, and the Franciscan con- 
vent; as to the amphitheatre and 
other antiquities of the same kind, 
asserted to be still perceptible, it 
requires a much larger share of cre- 
dulity, and a more heated imagina- 
tion than I possess, to attempt to 
describe what there is little or no- 
thing in reality to justify. Fiesole 
has one advantage, in net only being 
cool, but almost cold, in the summer. 
I visited it in July, and the wind 
was so strong, that 1 had my hat 
blown away once, and could only 
preserve it by retaining a hold 
great part of the time ; and be- 
tween the description of the place 
and the reality, I felt much disap- 
pointed. 

One mile from the Porta E.o- 
mano, on the Poggio Imperiale, is a 
royal villa containing a statue of 
Adonis, by M. A. Buonarotti, which 
is much admired, and considered 
his chef d'ceuvre, with portraits of 
Petriircha and Laura, by Albert 
Durer. Pratolino, a royal villa 
nearly six miles from the Porta 
San Gallo, has a celebrated garden, 
with a colossal statue of the Apen- 
nine, sixty feet in height, by John 
of Bologna; its interior is hollowed 
into caverns, having springs and 
fountains. 



On the way to Pratolino is the 
modern carapo santo, or burying 
ground of Florence. 

The Careggi de Medici, about 
three miles from the Porta San 
Gallo,' is celebrated as the favourite 
retreat of Lorenzo the Magnificent, 
and as the spot where, with an 
assemblage of learned and eminent 
men, he formed those plans of pa- 
triotic institutions and stately edi- 
fices by which his country was 
benefited and adorned. The house 
stands upon an eminence, which ren- 
ders it cool and delightful even in 
the heat of summer, is furnished with 
excellent water, and affords a noble 
and almost boundless prospect of 
every description of rich and beauti- 
ful scenery. 

Vallombrosa^ about fifteen miles 
distant from Fiesole, is well worthy 
of notice, not only on account of its 
being immortalised by Milton, but 
because it is here that the noble 
Certosa or Carthusian monastery, 
is situated, still containing some 
fine paintings, with a rich and beau- 
tiful country surrounding it. Pedes- 
trian tourists will find an excursion 
to this and the neighbouring con- 
vents of Camaldules and L^Alvernia, 
the former about eighteen miles 
from Vollambrosa, and the latter 
fourteen miles further, a pleasant 
trip, as they will be received with 
much hospitality and kindness, and 
even invited to spend a week or two, 
only making a trifling present on 
going away. 

ROUTE 109. 

FLORENCE TO PISA AND LEGHORN. 



From Florence to Lastra 

— Ambrogiana 

— Soala 

— Castel del Bosco 

— Fornacette 

— Pisa . » 
-— Leghorn . 



Posies. 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
2 



The whole road from Florence to 



596 NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 109. FLORENCE TO PISA AND LEGHORN. 



Leghorn is excellent, having a suc- 
cession of hill and dale, through a 
rich country. 

Pisa. — Inns: hie Donzella, on 
the Arno, kept by Mr. Peverarde, is 
a first-rate house, clean and com- 
fortable; Grand Bretagne^ very 
good, clean, and reasonable ; Yic- 
toria, also on the Arno. 

Pisa, one of the tv^elve cities of 
Etruria, stands on the banks of the 
Arno, by vi^hich, like Florence, it is 
divided into two nearly equal parts ; 
it is an ancient and beautiful town, 
situated in a fine country, having a 
magnificent and broad quay on each 
side of the river, and adorned with 
many noble and elegant buildings, 
which give it an air of grandeur in 
spite of its poverty and fallen splen- 
dour. Pisa is said to have been 
built after the Trojan war ; it is 
certainly very ancient. In more 
modern times it has been the capi- 
tal of a great republic, having at its 
command a fine fleet, which put 
down the African corsairs, was a 
terror to the Saracens, and checked 
the ambition of Genoa. This city, 
next to Florence, is the largest in 
Tuscany. Its three bridges over 
the Arno are elegant and hand- 
some ; the streets are excellently 
paved, wide, and straight ; but, 
although its walls are about five 
miles in circumference, it does not 
contain above 20,000 inhabitants. 
Pisa is forty- two miles from Flo- 
rence, sixteen Tuscan miles from 
Leghorn, and eight miles from the 
Mediterranean. 

The Duomo, or Cathedral, a Go- 
thic edifice, in the shape of a Latin 
cross, was begun about 1083 by 
PJuschetto, a Greek architect. It is 
the third or the fourth finest church 
in Italy, and the repairs and clean- 
ing commenced some time ago are 
just finishing; indeed I doubt whe- 
ther it may not be called the second 
or third finest church : but as it 
was repairing when I visited it, I 
can hardly hazard an exact opinion ; 



its size is very large, and it is 
adorned with many fine columns of 
porphyry, granite, jasper, verde an- 
tico,. (fee. The bronze doors, made 
by JBonano, are extremely curious ; 
those by John of Bologna, which 
shut the entrances at the west end, 
are exceedingly beautiful, being co- 
vered with figures of saints, prophets, 
&c., adorned with an elegant border 
of flowers, foliage, fruits, and birds, 
in a most extraordinary manner ; 
the interior is ornamented with 
seventy-four lofty columns, sixty of 
oriental granite, the others of mar- 
ble ; twelve altars, designed by Mi- 
chael Angeio, adorn the walls ; the 
high altar is magnificently deco- 
rated. The mosaic, on the ceiling, 
of our Saviour, &c., which strikes 
every one who enters, was by G. 
Gaddi and others, about 1325 ; and 
the pictures of St. Peter, St. John, 
St. Margaret, and St. Catherine, are 
by Andrea del Sarto; besides these 
there are a number of fine paintings. 
The chapel of the Holy Sacrament, 
and that of St. Ranieri, are superbly 
ornamented ; the antique bronze 
griffin on the top of the cathedral is 
said to be of Egyptian workman- 
ship. 

The Baptistery in front of the 
cathedral is a rotunda, built after 
tbe designs of Diotisalvi, during 
the middle of the twelfth century ; 
its interior resembles an ancient 
temple, having twelve arches, sup- 
ported by eight large columns of 
Sardinian granite, with another row 
over them, on which rest the cupola ; 
in the centre stands a large octagon 
font of marble, and near it the pul- 
pit of the same material, supported 
by columns of precious marble, and 
ornamented with bas-reliefs, con- 
sidered one of the finest works of 
Niccolo Pisano. 

The Campanile, or Belfry, called 
the Leaning Tower, was finished in 
1174 ; it is about 170 feet high, and 
twelve feet out of the perpendi- 
cular; this beautiful edifice is 



TUSCANY. — ROUTE 109. FLORENCE TO PISA AND LEGHORN. 597 



adorned with more than 200 co- 
lumns of granite and other marbles ; 
the ascent to the top is easy, and 
the view is extensive and beautiful. 
The Campo Santo, or burial place, 
is a large rectangle, surrounded by 
sixty-two arches, of a very light 
Gothic, begun in 1278, and tinished 
in 1283, from the designs of Giovanni 
Pisano. This edifice is perfectly 
unique in its kind ; the arches and 
pavements are of white marble ; 
it contains sarcophagi and statuary; 
but what makes it so remarkable is, 
that the walls are painted in fresco 
with sacred history by the first re- 
storers of painting ; they were begun 
about the year 1300, and continued 
till 1670. The works of the old 
masters, especially Orgagna's, have 
been much injured by repainting. 
All these curious frescoes are en- 
graved in a work published at Flo- 
rence in J 812, entitled ' Pitture a 
Fresco del Campo Santo.' Here, 
and at the Baptistery and Leaning 
Tower, a fee is required. 

The churches of St. Matteo, St. 
Pierino, St. Michele in Borgo, St. 
Andrea, and St. Francesco, contain 
a few curious and some good paint- 
ings, with other antiquities. The 
church of St. Stephano is reputed to 
contain the bones of St. Stephen; 
and among its other curiosities is an 
organ, said to be the finest in Europe. 
The Regal palace, the palaces of 
the Cavaliers, Lanfr^dacci, Seta, 
and Casa Mecherini, are worthy of 
notice. 

The Sapienza, or University, was 
originally founded by the Emperor 
Henry VII., and has produced a 
great many learned men ; the Torre 
delle Speeola, or observatory, was 
erected in 1737, and is furnished 
with good English instruments. 
This university has also a botanic 
garden, rich in foreign plants, and 
, a small museum of birds, shells, 
fossils, &c. &c. The great hospital 
is large, and well attended. The 
Loggia del Mercanti and Casino 



Nobili are handsome buildings ; the 
theatre is capacious, but not ele- 
gantly fitted up. 

The canal extending between Pisa 
and Leghorn was made under Ferdi- 
nand I., and the modern aqueduct, 
begun by the same, was finished by 
his son Cosmo II. It is a noble 
work, and conveys pure and excellent 
water from the village of Asciano to 
Pisa, a distance of four miles. 

At Pisa, every third year, on the 
l7th of June, a singular and very 
beautiful illumination takes place 
in honour of St. Ranieri. The im- 
mense length of the noble quays, 
with their fine curves, and the 
bridges, add much to the splendour 
of this festival, and also of the car- 
nival, which here is very gay. The 
baths of St. Julian, four miles from 
Pisa, have good lodgings, are hand- 
some and commodious, and an ex- 
cellent spot for invalids in the sum- 
mer ; they are very beneficial for 
gout and diseases of the liver. 

For railway fares from Pisa to 
Leghorn, and vice versa, see Leg- 
horn. 

Climate. — Pisa has already been 
recommended as a place of residence 
for invalids ; it is therefore only ne- 
cessary to say that apartments, with 
all sorts of excellent provisions, are 
plentiful and moderate, and that the 
nobility and gentry are polite and 
attentive to foreigners. A new Eng- 
lish Church has been lately erected 
behind the Hotel Grand Bretagne. 

The road to Lucca is one of the 
most beautiful that can be imagined ; 
the country is not only rich, and in 
the highest state of cultivation, but 
the vines, loaded with grapes, are 
run in festoons from one large tree 
to another on each side of the road, 
having an appearance equally taste- 
ful, surprising, and elegant. 

Lucca. — Inns : Orlandi's. This 
well-conducted, comfortable house 
has been left out of Murray's ' Hand- 
Book,' and the Grande Bretagne y 
which has been closed these last 



698 NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 110. LUCCA TO THE BATHS OF LUCCA. 



nine years, is strongly recommended ! 
'—Hotel de P Europe^ very good. 
The ancient city of Lucca, called 
L'Industriosa, is situated in a fertile 
plain, watered by the Serchio and 
the Ozzorri. It is three miles in 
circumference, and contains about 
30,000 inhabitants, defended by a 
wall, bastions, and ramparts ; the 
latter forming a delightful prome- 
nade, by which the circuit of the 
town may be made in an hour. It is 
only very lately that it laid down the 
name of the republic of Lucca ; it is 
now under the Grand Duke of Lucca. 
The cathedral, with some of the 
churches, contain a few good paint- 
ings. The Ducal palace has few 
pictures ; in front is a beautiful sta- 
tue in white marble of Maria Louisa. 
The theatre is small, but elegant, 
and there is a good university. The 
streets are well paved and clean. 
The Lucehese are active and indus- 
trious, the upper ranks learned and 
polite. The ladies are celebrated 
for their beauty, and are well edu- 
cated ; the lower classes honest and 
respectful. 

EOUTE 110. 

LUCCA TO THE BATHS OF LUCCA. 

• About five miles on the road we 
pass very near Marlia, a palace built 
by the Princess Elisa, now occupied 
by the Grand Duke of Lucca, fur- 
nished with much elegance, and 
standing in a beautiful garden. 

If a dense rural population be any 
test of the healthfulness and fertility 
of a country, the claims of the duchy 
of Lucca to that character are in- 
contestible, for its census gives 
150,000 souls in a territory of fifty 
square leagues, and this in spite of 
a large annual drain upon that 
number by the emigration of hus- 
bandmen to Corsica and Lombardy, 
and a not very inconsiderable dimi- 
nution in the crowds who seek a 
precarious livelihood in the king- 



doms of the north, so common with 
their plaster casts (stucchini di 
Lucca) in our own cities, towns, 
and hamlets. 

The northern extremity of the 
district containing the baths is a 
continuous mountain range ; some of 
these mountains are well clothed 
with forests of oak, elm, pines, and 
the finest chestnut trees in the 
world, whilst a vigorous and never- 
failing vegetation enriches the lower 
regions ; some of the summits are 
sharp precipitous peaks, others are 
flat or jagged. Deep ravines have 
been formed by the torrents and cas- 
cad es which feed the Lima and the 
Serchio. 

The roads have been well laid out, 
and are kept in perfect order. They 
are shaded with plane trees, cy- 
presses, willows, and others ; and 
although the umbrageousness thus 
given during the heats of the day is 
grateful to the traveller, an English 
eye is apt to be wearied with the 
unbroken uniformity of these tree 
borders. The roate very frequently 
serpentines along the basis of the 
mountain. 

Fr'oih the Tuscan frontier to the 
baths is about sixteen miles ; a very 
excellent road, which unites with 
that from Lucca, runs along with a 
chain of delightful hills, and through 
a series of towns and hamlets, and 
falls into one of the two principal 
routes to the baths, that on the left 
bank of the Serchio. 

The Serchio, which in summer is 
a brook in the bed of a river, be- 
comes very formidable in winter 
from the extent and fury of its 
current, when swollen by the melt- 
ing of the snows or an abundant fall 
of rain ; it has not unfrequently over- 
come its banks, and spread ruin and 
devastation in its course. In the 
autumn of 1836, especially, in con- 
sequence of a violent storm, the river 
became so tumid from itrs host of 
mountain tributes that it required 
only three hours to attain a height 



LUCCA. — ROtTTE llO. THE BATHS OF LUCCA. 



599 



up.til then unknown ; its fury was 
irresistible ; the greater part of its 
bridges were swept away^ dikes, 
mounds, and embankments offered 
iinavailing obstructions; they w-ere 
soon broken or carried away, and 
the country has still to mourn the 
many unrepaired ravages of that 
single ^day. 

Alongside the route to be pursued-, 
four bridges cross the Serchio; the 
iirst is the 

Ponte al Moriano, close to which 
are clustered some houses and an 
inn, while a strong sluice diverts the 
waters of the Serchio to form a 
pleasing rivulet, which, after turn- 
ing several mills, directs its course 
-towards Lucca and Peschia. 

The Decimo is the second bridge, 
and, like the former, is of a good 
-style of architecture. 

The Ponte alia Maddalena is very 
commonly called the Devil's Bridge. 
It exhibits the unusual form of a 
semicircle; the architect, by what 
has been termed an inexplicable and 
useless caprice, has given so superior 
an elevation to the middle arch that 
the summit from the sides of the 
Tiver to the centre presents *an angle 
-of sixty degrees. The narrowness 
of this bridge is such that it only 
yields space enough for a man and 
a horse, and its aspect altogether is 
«o singular that many feel unwilling 
to trust themselves upon it ; its 
strength, however, has been well 
evidenced, and it has hitherto with- 
stood the rage of the Serchio. 

Near the hamlets of Fornoli and 
Chienti the Lima flows into the 
Serchio. At a short distance from 
the fourth bridge, to the right of the 
road, is a fountain of extraordinary 
beauty and abundance; its waters 
are always icy cold, and so delicious 
to the taste, that they can be drunk 
freely and with relish even when no 
thirst is felt. The river continues to 
be skirted by the road to 

Ponte al Serraglio, the bridge im- 



mediately connected with the baths. 
It is strong and handsome, and of 
a single arch ; it leads direct into a 
spacious place. 

The route on the other, the right 
bank, is equally pleasant and pic- 
turesque. A branch of the Serchio 
is crossed by a solid stone bridge, 
and the road runs on to another 
branch, the Fegana, which is passed 
by means of a kind of wooden raft 
of heavy timber ; this is pra,cticable 
enough in summer, when the river, 
like most mountain-fed streams, is 
nearly dry. The raft is but a tem- 
porary resource until the repairs of 
an adjacent bridge are completed, 
two of its arches, with all their 
massive piles, having been swept 
away in 1836. Not far from the 
baths this road divides into two 
branches ; the one to the right crosses 
the Lima by a temporary wooden 
bridge, and joins the great road from 
Lucca ; the other branch, of recent 
formation, with rows of new houses, 
runs along with the course of the 
Lima until it encounters the bed of 
the little river Cumaione (over which 
is to be thrown an iron bridge), and 
terminates near the hospital in the 
promenade from the Casino Reale 
to the town. 

BATHS OF LtrCC.4. 

Hotels. — There are three large 
hotels at the Ponte al Serraglio, 
belonging to the same proprietor, 
M. Pagnini ; they are conveniently 
situated, well conducted, and mo- 
derate. A table d'hote daily at 
four o'clock; breakfast, with meat, 
3 pauls ; or board and lodging at 
one dollar a day. 

Ponte al Serraglio is the name not 
only of the bridge but of the town, 
which may be styled that of the 
Lucca baths. 

At the Villa dei Bagniis Orlandi's 
comfortable hotel. 

The baths are situated in a narrow 
ravine on the banks of the Lima. 



600 NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 110. THF, BiTHS OF LTJCCA. CASINO. 



The history of the discovery of 
the hot mineral waters, and of the 
establishment of this town, is as 
romantic, and perhaps better au- 
thenticated, than thatof Bladud and 
his well-known city. It was a wild 
and desert spot, until some Koman 
soldiers by mere accident discovered 
the hot springs, and found them so 
conducive to the healing of their 
wounds and ailments, that they set- 
tled by the river, contriving wooden 
shelters in the form of barracks on 
the left bank. It is recorded that at 
a later period the gospel truths 
spread, and were secretly taught in 
this retreat; it thus formed a sort of 
focus for the Christian faith of the 
neighbourhood, whilst the virtues of 
the waters became more and more 
known and authenticated, and the 
wooden barracks in process of time 
grew into substantial houses. A 
convent was also built, of which 
only the campanile now remains. 

The present town, which is of 
considerable size, and of annual in- 
crease, is divided into two parts con- 
nected by a bridge, already insuffi- 
cient, although neither narrow nor 
incommodious for the congregation of 
eq^uipages, horsemen, and pedes- 
trians. The old portion of the town 
(on the left bank) having been de- 
stroyed, handsome streets and de- 
tached buildings have usurped its 
place. In the principal street con- 
nected with the Strada Elisa is a 
neat parish church and parsonage 
house. The opposite side, however, 
contains the fashionable quarter. 

Among the most remarkable pub- 
lic edifices are 

The Casino Reale, the site of 
which was dug from out the slope of 
the mountain, the incumbent soil 
being restrained by walls of very 
solid masonry. Joseph Paradini is 
the architect of this fine structure. 
The facade is 140 feet long, with a 
portico of six Corinthian columns 



of white marble. Two staircases 
with iron balustrades, supporting 
beautiful lamps, lead to a stone bal- 
cony, or rather terrace, shaded 
with tasteful awnings, and exten- 
sive enough for an easy promenade. 
The view from it is very fine, em- 
bracing the romantic course of the 
Lima and the grandeur of the sur- 
rounding mountains. 

The casino is splendidly furnished^ 
and its reunions during the season, 
for the purposes of conversation, 
reading, &c., and the other resources 
pleasantly to " give time a shove," 
are attended by distinguished vi- 
sitors. Balls are given every Mon- 
day in the great hall ; sometimes 
400 are assembled, from every part 
of Europe. Concerts take place in 
the same hall. The gambling has 
been discontinued by order of the 
Duke of Lucca : what effect its 
abolition will have on the place has 
to be yet proved. 

In addition to the natural beauties 
of this delightfully romantic iipot, 
consisting of endless rides, drives, 
and shaded promenades, there is 
abundant first-rate accommodation 
for visitors : provisions are both 
abundant and cheap. These attrac- 
tions will naturally induce thousands 
to seek that retirement from the 
scorching heat of an Italian sun, 
which in the entire space of this 
beautiful country can be met with 
only here ; but to render a sojourn at 
Lucca baths in every way agreeable 
to the convalescent as well as to the 
invalid, M. Pagnini, the proprietor 
of the three principal hotels, has in 
the most liberal manner erected a 
handsome building in the most plea- 
sant part of Ponte la Sarraglio, as 
a source of recreation and enjoy- 
ment, which is not to be found at 
any other watering place in Europe. 
Although the casino possesses nu- 
merous apartments at the disposal 
of visitors, there are many families 
and persons who have a very 



X,UCCA. — ROUTE 110. BATHS OF LUCCA. CERCLB DB EBITNION. 601 



decided objection to even enter a 
buil^ng where gambling is carried 
on ; in this case the party so 
situated must either sacrifice their 
feelings, or deprive themselves of 
that liteparj and social intercourse 
which alone can be obtained in 
these establishments elsewhere. To 
obviate this drawback to the full 
enjoyment of a residence at the 
baths of Lucca, at the suggestion 
of several English families who 
annually take up their summer 
residence here, the said building 
was erected at the sole expense of 
M. Pagnini, and at this moment is in 
a. most flourishing condition ; the 
apartments, nine in number^ com- 
prise an assembly, supper, and 
reading rooms, billiard, card, and 
smoking rooms, ante-rooms, and 
library, spacious, airy, well-fur- 
nished, and fitted with every conve- 
nience. The entire arrangement is 
vested in a committee of seven Eng- 
lish gentlemen, who meet once a week 
for the purpose of admitting mem- 
bers, regulating the nights of extra 
amusements, such as concerts and 
lectures, which, added to the regular 
balls and reunions, keep up a con- 
stant round of intellectual and ra- 
tional amusement. 

To ensure the utmost respectabi- 
lity, it is necessary for a candidate 
to be proposed and seconded by 
two married members ; or if pro- 
posed by a bachelor, there must be 
two married men as seconders ; but 
strangers who are only passing 
through, or making but a limited 
stay at the baths, may be admitted 
for three days, by the introduction 
of one member. The terms of sub- 
scription are 3 napoleons for a 
family for the season, and 2 napo- 
leons for a single person ; for a 
family for a month 25 frs., and 15 
frs. for a single person. 

The assembly room is open every 
Friday evening from ninetiU twelve, 
when a good band attends. Refresh- 
ments may be had at moderate prices. 



The reading room is supplied 
with English, Erench, German, and 
Italian papers — the ' Times,' ' Sun,' 
London and Paris ' Observer,' two 
copies of ' Galignani's Messenger,' 
'Debats,' 'Deux Mondes,' &c. 

The establishment is called the 
Cercle de Reunion, and is evidently 
the best conducted, most comfort- 
able reunion I have met with in 
any part of the continent, and 
great praise is due to M. Pagnini 
for the liberal, spirited, and gener 
ous manner he has met the wishes 
of the English families visiting these 
celebrated baths. 

The Hospital owes its existence to 
the munificence of Count Demidoff^ 
who founded it in 1826 for seventy 
patients of either sex, who are sedu- 
lously tended by a society of those 
truly Christian ladies, the Sisters of 
Charity. A chapel (also at the 
cost of Count Demidoff) was built 
on the opposite side of the river 
Cumaione for the use of the hos- 
pital, but a portion of it was de- 
stroyed in 1836, as well as the neat 
bridge which connected the two 
buildings. Strong beams of wood 
have since been used in the stead 
of this bridge. 

The duke's villa is detached, and 
in a fine mountain site ; it is of a 
simple style but in excellent taste, 
while the noble prospects from its 
windows and terraces, its gardens, 
statues, fountains, aUeys, and flower 
parterres, render it a delightful 
summer sojourn. The ducal court 
has not been held here for some 
years. 

The Villa dei Bagni (atOrlandi's 
excellent hotel, where one is sure to 
find civUityj good fare, and mode- 
rate charges) may be now consi- 
dered as a sort of faubourg to Ponte 
al Serraglio ; in it is (in addition 
to the duke's palace) the English 
church, and the theatre, which, as 
well as the hospital, was the gift of 
Count Demidotf. 

The strada, or public promenades 



602^ 



KOETHISRN ITALT.— KOtJTB 110- BAIHS OF ttTCCA. 



are on the two sides of the river; 
that on the left is called the 

Strada Elisa, from having been 
formed by the Princess Elisa Bona- 
parte, the sister of Napoleon. On 
one side of this well-frequented walk 
flow the limpid waters of the Lima, 
on the other is a striking mountain 
landscape mixed with deep-coloured 
woods and glistening torrents. This 
promenade was destroyed in 1836, 
but has since been restored and re- 
planted ; it extends about three 
miles, as far as some ancient mills. 

The continuation of the prmcipal 
street of the town, bordered with 
trees of different kinds, leaves the 
duke's villa to the left, rmis through 
the villa dei Bagni, and terminates 
at some ancient forges, called Casa 
Bacciana. These forges were almost 
totally destroyed in the often-cited 
inundJition of 1 8 3 6. A very distinct 
echo is found close by, but less 
sonorous than formerly, owing, it is 
said, to the masses of rock detached 
at different times from the neigh- 
bouring mountain. 

An account of the environs will 
be little more than a detail of the 
mountains. 

The northern mountain presents 
a very smiling aspect from the 
woods, villages, and villas which 
adorn its heights or its base, as well 
as from the buildings containing 
the baths and the necessary offices ; 
for all the springs have their source 
in the northern mountain. It is 
bounded by two rivers, to the east 
and south by the Lima, and to the 
west by the Cumaione, an impetu- 
ous winter torrent. The mountain 
is intersected, especially in the 
vicinity of the springs, by gravel 
walks, sightly alleys, and shady 
zigzag paths set with aromatic 
shrubs. 

To the west rises another and 
higher mountain ; on its summit is 
the village of Granaiuola, and a 
beautiful convent, once of high re- 
nown. 



To the south rises a third, its 
eminence crowned with the village 
of Lugliano. Some of the houses- 
in this village are of a superior 
order for the reception of tourists 
or valetudinarians. The asses' milk 
here is particularly good. 

In the garden of the furthest 
house in Lugliano is a curious ash 
tree ; in the hoUow of the trunk has 
been formed a sort of cell, where 
fifteen persons can sit at table ; the 
foliage is so close as to yield a per- 
fect shelter from the hottest sun- 
shine. Erom this house, which 
stands detached from any inter- 
posing obstructions, is a prospect 
most varied and extensive. To say 
nothing of the luxuriant beauties 
spread more immediately around, 
the momitains of Carrara, the tower 
of Bargiglio, the sea, Lucca, Leg- 
horn, and the heights beyond Genoa, 
are discernible. It is even said that, 
in favourable weather, a practised 
eye, with the help of a telescope, 
can catch the dim outline of the 
distant coast of Erance. 

The valley del Prato Fiorito is 
about five miles east of Ponte al 
Serraglio ; it is covered with the 
closest and finest herbage, far sur- 
passing what is maintained at great 
cost in the best garden-plots m less 
favoured climates. The surface of 
this valley, in its whole extent, 
does not offer a single stone nor a 
parasitical plant ; in the spring 
it is enamelled with flowers of all 
hues, and in that season, though the 
keen air may remind the spectator 
that above him are rocks covered 
with snow, every breeze comes 
loaded with the richest perfume. 
At all times this valley retains the 
freshness of its verdure, and is 
so smooth that a learned physi- 
cian has compared it to a Titanic 
billiard table. The sea in the 
distance relieves the mountain 
scenery. 

The ice used at Lucca, at the 
baths, and indeed in the surround- 



LUCCA. — ROUTE 110. THE BATHS OF LUCCA. 



603 



ing districts, is procured from the 
heiajhts above this valley. 

The Baths.— The Hot Water 
Springs. — The celebrity and anti- 
quity of the baths of Lucca have 
called forth many histories and hy- 
potheses of their ori:2in and their 
nature. The most general opinion, 
and the one supported by the 
greatest weight of geological and 
chemical learning, seems to be, that 
these waters are produced by vol- 
canic agency in the depths of the 
northern mountain, and are more- 
over chemically affected by the 
process of filtration through the 
interior to the surface. 

There are ten principal springs. 
The first is called 

Bernabo, a name derived from a 
citizen of Pistoia, who found these 
waters cure a disease which had 
resisted all other means and appli- 
ances. The buildings enclosing 
this spring are convenient, con- 
taining eight apartments, each with 
one or more spacious baths of white 
marble, to ail of which the water is 
conveyed in pipes ; the temperature 
is 35° of Eeaumur. The Bernabo 
is at the foot of the mountain, and 
is the nearest to the town ; it is not 
commonly used by invalids, but by 
those in health, who desire the in- 
vigorating refreshment ordinarily 
derived from bathing. 

More to the west and in a higher 
position is 

Doccia Eossa, resorted to by in- 
valids ; the arrangements for bath- 
ing, fomenting, &c., are of admirable 
method. 

Trastullini contains numerous 
bathing rooms and a supply of 
couches, linen, and everything a 
patient may require, which indeed 
is the case in all these establish- 
ments. 

Above the spring dei Trastullini 
is that with the name 

Delia Disperata, so designated 
from the many and marvellous 
cures its waters have wrought in 



cases pronounced desperate — be- 
yond the power of human medicine. 
Alibert says it is regarded as the 
sheet-anchor : the heat exceeds 36° 
of Eeaumur. 

The Coronale has been found 
most serviceable for diseases of the 
head. Temperature 3.5°. 

The title Dell' Innamorata, or 
Delia Maritata, has been given to 
a spring because the use of its 
waters is said to be productive of 
the long-denied blessings of mater- 
nity ; even in cases where those 
blessings have been despaired of as 
well as coveted, its efficacy has 
been manifested. The temperature 
never surpasses 34° of Eeaumur. 

San Giovanni, the customary heat 
of which is but 31°. 

The spring del Fontino is used 
for nervous disorders ; its habitual 
heat is 37° of Eeaumur. 

TheDoccioneis the most copious, 
the hottest, and most elevated of 
all the springs; it is very generally, 
called Bagni Caldi from its exceed- 
ing 43° of Eeaumur. The famous 
bath of Corsena was formerly sup- 
plied from this source — it is now 
merely a large reservoir. 

The physical properties of ail 
these springs present an almost 
perfect identity ; they are all inodo- 
rous, light, and clear, though they 
all hold in suspension saline matter 
and terreous substances, which 
cause them to form incrustations 
and stalactites in the channels 
through which they are conveyed 
to their respective receptacles. 
They leave a sharp and sourish 
taste after drinking; but if the 
water be retained a little while in 
the mouth its saline flavour is re- 
markable : they are soft and oily to 
the touch, qualities owing, it is 
said, to some portion of gelatinous 
animal matter in their composition, 
which Vacquelina, Castiglioni, and 
others have pronounced common to 
waters filtered through mountains. 
It has been shown that their tern- 



604 



NORTHERN ITALT. — ROUTE llOi THE BATHS OF LtJCCA. 



peratures are not alike, which may 
be attributable to their distance or 
proximity to their outlets or to 
the obstacles encountered in their 
course. The supply is plentiful 
and unfailing, sufficient to fill 1,200 
baths daily. These waters retain 
all their properties when transport- 
ed to any distance in jars or bottles 
hermetically sealed. 

Many analyses have been made 
by competent professors of their 
chemical properties ; the most 
searching perhaps by Moscheni; 
his latest experiments give us the 
component parts of the hot mineral 
waters — 

1. A considerable portion of pure 
carbonic acid gas. 

2. Sulphates of lime, magnesia, 
and acidulated sulphates of alum 
and potash. 

3. Hydro-chlorates of soda and 
magnesia. 

4. Carbonates of lime and mag- 
nesia. 

5. Carbonate of flint. 

6. Carbonate of alum. 

7. Carbonate of oxide of iron. 
The springs are the purest after 

a long drought, for their water is 
then exempt from any pluvial ad- 
mixture ; exposure to the atmosphere 
rapidly decomposes its distinguish- 
ing properties. 

These waters are universally ad- 
mitted to act beneficially upon the 
digestive organs, and through them 
sympathetically on the whole ani- 
mal economy. They are found or 
considered efficacious in all dis- 
eases which present no inflammatory 
symptoms, such as scrofulous and 
scorbutic afi^ections, hemorrhages of 
some descriptions, corruptions of 
the blood, hypochondriasis, inter- 
mittent fevers, some cases of para- 
lysis, afiections of the spleen and 
liver, stone, when not long confirm- 
ed, gravel, gout, and all cutaneous 
disorders. 

The injudicious use of these wa- 
ters has often been productive of 



the worst effects. They are in- 
terdicted in all cases of a plethoric 
character, in consumptions, hectic 
fevers ; in fine, in all cases where 
danger would arise from an unnatu- 
ral activity being given to the cir- 
culation ; the baths are considered 
improper also for persons of a very 
nervous and irritable temperament. 

The waters are drunk by patients, 
as well as used for all the purposes 
of bathing and fomenting. 

A list of visitors would be a list 
of European genius, learning, and 
high station. Here Montaigne re- 
laxed his intellectual strength, and 
learned to trifle and give bals cham- 
petres to the bourgeois and villa- 
gers ; here Montesquieu, Voltaire, 
Alfieri, Chaptal, Humboldt, Brog- 
niart, and many more, renovated 
the health and strength perhaps 
impaired by labours which have 
enriched the world ; it is even said 
th^se waters act as a fillip to the 
play of wit and eloquence — a medi- 
cal Hippocrene ! 

There only remains to state, in 
conclusion, that the buildings around 
the baths of the town supply every 
thing an invalid can desire for ease, 
recreation, or convalescence. Asses', 
goats' and cows' milk, invalid chairs, 
carriages, saddle horses and asses, 
and all kinds of provisions, which the 
exceeding fruitfulness of the country 
supplies cheaply and abundantly. 
Lodgings are to be engaged in pri- 
vate houses, in farm houses, and 
villas for those who dislike the pub- 
licity of an hotel. 

These baths are the resort of 
travellers of ail countries, English, 
Germans, French, Poles, Russians, 
and Americans. The nature of the 
climate should not be unnoticed as 
a grand auxiliary to the healing 
properties of the baths of Lucca. 

Dr Trotman, from Florence, at- 
tends the baths during the season. 

Banker, Mr F. Peverada, and at 
the Tre Donzeila, Pisa. 

Excursions. — The principal excur- 



TUSCANY. — ROUTE 110. LEGHORN. 



605 



sions from the baths are to Barga, a 
very old and picturesque city, where 
the carriage road ends, and horse- 
traeks alone continue the communi- 
cation through the mountains ; Gal- 
licano and Castelnuovo — from the 
former there is a fine mountain pass 
to Saravegga, and from the latter 
another over the Tambura to Massa. 
On the road leading to these there 
is some very beautiful scenery up the 
Torreta Cava. There is a beautiful 
ride through Lqjano (where there is 
a singular tree, with a flooring placed 
amongst the branches, on which 
twenty persons may conveniently 
dine) to Pezzurna, whence on a clear 
day there is a beautiful view, dis- 
covering Florence on one side, and 
Leghorn and the sea upon the other. 
The return to the baths through Ber- 
mabbio by the strawberry gardens is 
grand and striking. But one of the 
most romantic rides is to San Mar- 
cello. The carriage road does not 
at present extend more than four 
miles in this direction, but when the 
duchy of Lucea Ishall pass at the 
death of the Duchess of Parma into 
the Tuscan dominion, then this road 
will be completed, and form a ready 
and splendid communication with 
Florence and Lombardy. At San 
Marcello the road joins that which 
leads through the mountains to Mo- 
dena. At San Marcello there is a 
new felt factory, and a very large 
establishment at the Ponti di Lima 
for making paper ; there are also iron 
works at Moriano, in the immediate 
neighbourhood. From San Marcello 
the tourist may ascend the ScaflFviolo, 
whence there is a fine view, em- 
bracing the Adriatic on one side, 
and the Mediterranean on the other. 
Descending to Cotyhario, there are 
some good pictures in the church. 
Continuing to Finnalbo, the summit 
of the Cimone presents another ex- 
tensive view. The traveller will 
return to the baths over the pass of 
the Kondinaja, and the whole de- 



scent along the banks of the Fegafa 
torrent is magnificent and interest- 
ing. The immediate environs are 
crowded with walks ; which are easy 
of access to ponies.^ donkeys, and 
postantini. Lucca, baths of San 
Juliano, Pisa, Certosa, Gombo, and 
Casine. 

LEGHORN. 

Hotel : Smith's Albergo San 
Marco ; excellent, very much supe- 
rior to Thompson's ; the rooms are 
large, comfortably furnished, and 
clean, with good dinners, good wine 
(ask for Coghlan's particular Mar- 
sell a), civil host, with an English 
wife. The attention and civility one 
meets with at this hotel render it a 
comfort to enter it. On the arrival 
of the steamers at Leghorn some de- 
lay takes place previous to landing, 
waiting the arrival of the police on 
board. This being a free port, lug- 
gage is not examined on entering, 
but very strictly on leaving; 1 fr. 
each is charged for boatage. Persons 
only landing during the stoppage of 
the vessel, generally from six in the 
morning till four in t^e afternoon, 
should leave their luggage on board ; 
during this period a hasty visit may 
be paid to Pisa by railway trains, 
which leave five times a day: fare, 
first class, 3 pauls ; second class, 2 
pauls ; third class, 1 paul. 

N.B. Second class not very good ; 
time half an hour. 

Hackney flys may be hired from 
the boat to the railway for 2 pauls ; 
or for the first hour, 3 pauls ; second 
hour, 2 pauls; the porters demand 
exorbitantly for carrying luggage ; 
travellers with any great quantity 
should go by water through the 
town to the San Marco. 

Passports. —Very particular at- 
tention should be paid at Leghorn 
to obtain the necessary vises to your 
passport; on presenting the paper 
you receive on landing at the police 



G03 NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 11 Q. LEGHORN. CONSULS. CLIMATE. 



ofiftce, your passport is returned ; it 
must then be signed at the go-vernor's 
office, and then by the Neapolitan 
consul if going direct to Naples, or 
by the Roman consul if going to 
Rome by Civita Yecchia. 

Consuls. — The following are the 
fees paid for signing: — 



English consul - 
American ditto - 


pauls. 

5 

12 


crazie 
@ 



Preach ditto - 


5 


2 


Roman ditto - 


6 


e 


Neapolitan ditto - 
Russian ditto - 


11 
5 






Sardinian ditto - 


7 


1 


Austrian ditto - 


5 





Swiss ditto - 


2 






The city was fortified by Cosmo I. 
and his two sons, who drained the 
marshes, cut canals, formed two 
commodious harbours, and declared 
it a free port. It is two miles in 
circumference, and contains 60,000 
inhabitants, 15,000 of whom are 
Jews. The great square is spacious 
and handsome ; it contains the grand 
church, a noble edifice, designed by 
Vasari ; the Via Granda, or princi- 
pal street, is long, broad, straight, 
and well paved, furnished on each 
side with rich shops, coffee houses, 
&c. Other objects worthy of notice 
are the mole, the three lazarettos, 
coral manufactory, the statue of Fer- 
dinand I., which stands on the quay, 
with four slaves in bronze chained to 
the pedestal; the statue is by Gio- 
vanni del' Opera, the slaves by 
Pietro Tacca ; the opera house, the 
English burial ground, the large oil 
magazine, capable of holding 20,000 
barrels. All religions are tolerated 
here, but the Catholic is the pre- 
dominant. Leghorn appears to be 
a very admirable illustration of the 
advantages conferred by a free trade 
in encouraging commerce and manu- 
actures, as it certainly is the first 
port in the Mediterranean, and has, 
excepting the capital cities, a much 



greater appearance, of opulence and 
industry than any other town in Italy. 
The streets are generally good, the 
English merchants have large and 
handsome houses, and the great body 
of the inhabitants appear to be com- 
fortable. The present grand Duke 
of Tuscany seems to be fully aware 
of its importance, as he has con- 
structed a new aqueduct, made a 
beautiful walk, called the Condotti^ 
and is doing much to embellish and 
improve the city. The promenades' 
are the walk just mentioned and the 
grand square, where the band fre- 
quently plays before the governor's 
house of an evening ; there is also a? 
fine drive by the sea,, called the Ar- 
denza, about two miles out of the 
town; and the church of the Ma- 
donna di Montenaro is an elegant 
specimen of architecture, about one 
mile and a half further, Leghorn is- 
a good deal frequented in the end of 
August and during the month of 
September for sea bathing.. As this 
is entirely a mercantile town, the 
society is not in general what would 
suit an idle man or a man of plea- 
sure. Provisions are plentiful and 
good ; living is not dear, but not s& 
moderate as in many other towns. 

Climate. — Leghorn has become 
salubrious since the recent introduc- 
tion of good drinkable water, and 
the enlarging and cleaning its nu^ 
merous streets. Ophlhalmy seems^ 
endemial there, and blindness pro- 
duced by this disease is frequently 
met with amongst the people. The 
cause is attributed to the fine sand 
blown off the ground by the winds^ 
also by the great humidity of the- 
quarter Venezia, which is entirely 
intersected by canals. 

Eatables. — Vast and splendid 
warehouses, newly constructed, are 
filled with the celebrated small eod^ 
called baccala, that forms the prin- 
cipal sustenance of the people, and 



TUSCANY. — ^E OU I E 111-12. 



607 



is sold for only 4 crazie (28 cents) 
a pound. Excellent anchovies from 
the isle of Gorgona ; sardelle from 
Bastia. Delicate beccafichi in the 
month of September. Ked mullet, 
excellent for breakfast. 

Mushrooms, called fungo Greco, 
peculiar to Leghorn, are the most 
delicious of Italy. 

Superior small white figs and 
grapes. 

Tea, coffee, sugar, foreign wines, 
rum, porter, &c. are, through the 
porto franco, cheaper here than in 
any other part of Italy. 

Steam-boats for Marseilles and 
Naples, and vice versa, in two 
days. 

1st cabin. 2nd cabin, 

fr. fr. 

The fare from Leghorn 220 150 

To Civita Vecchia - 50 30 

To Naples - - - 100 65 

To Genoa - - - 40 25 

Marseilles - - - 100 65 

Children under ten years of age 
pay half price , domestics half the 
price of the seconds. 

A new road from Leghorn to 
Civita Vecchia is being constructed, 
which, placing them at only twenty 
hours' distance, promises to super- 
sede the route through Sienne, 
and to become the most agreeable 
and quickest communication with 
Eome. 

Bookseller. — Andrew Nanni, suc- 
cessor to Gamba. 

Alabaster and Marble Ornaments, 
Sfc. — A variety Of objects of art are 
here offered at moderate prices. 
Copies of antique statues, and chim- 
ney pieces in Carrara marble, are 
no where cheaper or of better exe- 
cution, and are largely exported to 
America. The tables in scagliola 
are also highly recommendable. 

Leghorn is one of the richest en- 
trepots in Italy for cachemires, 
feathers, and oriental stuffs. 



ROUTE 111. 
From Lucca to Sienne, 10 postes. 

Postes. 

From Lucca to Pisa - - - 2 

— Fornacette . - _ _ i 

— Castel del Bosco - - - 1 

— Scala . .... I 

— Cammiano - - - - 1 

— Poggibonsi •• - - - 2 

— Castiglioncello - - - 1 

— Sienne ----- i 

From Leghorn to Sienne, 9 postes. 

Postes. 

From Leghorn to Fornacette - - 2 

— Castel del Bosco - - - 1 

— Scala •> - - - - 1 

— Cammiano - - - - 1 

— Poggibonsi - - - - 2 

— Castiglioncello - - _ i 

— Sienne - - - - - 1 

Eoute from Sienne to Rome, see p. 
619. 

ROUTE 112. 

FLOKENCE TO LEGHORN BY EMPOLI 
AND PONTEDERA. 

Distance, 7 postes. 

From Florence to Lastra 

— Ambrogiana 

— Scala - - - - 

— Castel del Bosco - 

— Fornacette - - - 

— Leghorn - - _ 



Postes. 
1 
I 
1 
1 
1 
2 



The route to be pursued is unde- 
niably one of the pleasantest in 
Tuscany. It skirts val d'Arno, 
climbs mounts OUveto, Castel 
Pucci, and St Salvador, and the 
hiUs of Signa and Bellosguardo. At 
Signa the best hats of the fine 
Tuscan straw are manufactured. 

Lastra, where the Tuscan straw 
plaiting also flourishes, as well 
as a manufactory of vases ; witli 
bas-reliefs and other ornaments. 

Monte Lnpo, where similar vases 
are made (chiefly used to adorn 
gardens), and have been produced, 
it is said, from the old Estrucan 
times. 

Ambrogiana; here is a villa of the 
grand duke's. 

Empoli, with a population of 
3,000, is a waUed town, and central 
considered with reference to the 



606 



NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 113. BOLOGNA TO ANCONA- 



other cities of Tuscany ; a position 
very favourable for its trade. At 
Empoli was held the diet of the 
Ghibelines after the victory they 
iiad gained ; it was debated whether 
or not Florence should be destroyed 
and rebuilt at Empoli ; insane as 
such a project appears, it would 
have been executed or attempted 
but for the lusty opposition of 
Farinata degli Uberti. 

Scala is succeeded by 

StMiniato, distinguished as the 
birthplace of the illustrious family 
of Borromeo ; it is a small village. 

St Romano, the succeeding village, 
has nothing remarkable but its 
church. At a little distance was 
the frontier line of the rival re- 
publics of Pisa and Florence. Each 
power had its frontier castle, but 
only their ruins remain. That 
of Florence was at Montopopoli, 
that of Pisa at Marchi. 

Caste! del Bosco, beyond which 
the Era is crossed ; its junction 
with the Arno is at a little dis- 
tance. 

Pontedera, a lively town, of 3,000 
souls ; it contains manufactories of 
cloth, tanneries, and dye-houses. 

Fornacette and Cascina are the 
last places in the route. 

ROUTE 113. 

BOLOGNA TO ANCONA. 

Distance, 15f postes. 

Postes. 
From Bologna to St Niccolo - i* 

— Imola - - - 

— Faenza - - - 
•— Forli 

— Cesena - - - 1| 

— Savignano 

— Rimini - - - 

— Cattolica 

— Pesaro - - - 

— Fano ,- - 

— C. Marotta 

— Sinigazlia 

— Case Bruciato - 

— Ancona - - . 

The route from Bologna to An- 
cona is part of the Via Emilia, which 
reaches from Rimini to Placenza. 



Between Bologna and Imola are five 
rivers and one canal ; the. road is 
straight and level. 

Beyond the village of St Niceolo is 

Castel St Pietro, with 3,000 inha- 
bitants, its fortress built by . the 
Bolognese in 1200. The country 
is exceedingly fertile ; the rivers 
Salustra and Corsecchio are crossed, 

Imola, with a population of 1 0,000, 
is on the Santerno, at the entrance 
of the great plain of Lombardy, It 
covers the ruins of the ancient. fo- 
rum Comelii, which was destroyed 
by Justinian and rebuilt by the 
Lombards. To show that in after 
times Imola suffered greatly, it 
need only be said it was subject to 
Caesar Borgia. The soldier pope, 
Julius II, attached it to the states 
of the church. 

The Cathedral has been almost 
reconstructed by Morelli, a native 
of the city ; in it lie St Casciano 
and St Peter Chrysologus. The 
churches of the Dominicans and of 
the Brotherhood of St Charles both 
possess pictures by Ludovico Ca- 
racci. Pius VII was bishop of 
Imola previous to his elevation. 

The Santerno is crossed, on leav- 
ing Imola, by a modern bridge. 

Castel JBolognese, so named from 
a fortress erected in 1388 by the 
Bolognese. 

Faenza. — Hotel : La Posta. Po- 
pulation, 20,000. A walled city on 
the Lamone. Its form is a perfect 
square ; four wide streets abut on 
the principal place, in the centre of 
which is a fine fountain ; on one of 
its sides is the Palazzo Publico and 
a new theatre ; on the other the 
clock tower and cathedral. 

One incident connected with the 
history of Faenza may interest an 
Englishman. In 1376 the good 
knight, John Hawkwood, a native 
of Essex, and a leader of free lances 
(to give him a mild and chivalrous 
title) in the pay of the pope, carried 
wholesale massacre and plunder 
into the city. 



EOMAN SXA.TBS.-r-EOUTE 113. BOLOGNA TO AKCONA, 



609 



The Lyceum and churches possess 
some excellent paintings by Carlo 
Cignani, Giorgione, Jacomone (a 
native artist and a pupil of Ea- 
phael), and Innocenzio da Imola. 
One picture by Guido, the best of 
his second manner, was selected by 
the French as proper for the Louvre. 
On its way it was detained at Milan, 
and has since been restored. Some 
of the private collections are valu- 
able. 

Faenza is famed for its earthen- 
ware, and is the first Italian city in 
which those articles were manu- 
factured. When the French first 
imported them, they borrowed and 
retained the name of the place, by 
which to designate the novel pro- 
duction, faience. The Faenza ma- 
nufacture is now inferior to the 
Saxon, French, or English. Silk 
and paper are also objects of the 
industry of the citizens. A navi- 
gable canal communicates with the 
Po. 

This city was the birthplace of 
the profound mathematician Torri- 
ceRi. 

The district is fruitful in corn 
and wine, flax and hemp ; its fer- 
tility is often mentioned by Eoman 
authors ; it has also other charac- 
teristics, in hot and saline springs ; 
whilst on the banks of the Lamone, 
where sheep feed freely, is an ash- 
coloured tufa yielding a salt of per- 
fect whiteness. On some of the 
heights are found veins of lead ; in 
some, vestiges of iron and copper 
mines; in others, alabaster ; and 
between the rivers Lamone and 
Sentria is a plentiful vein of sul- 
phur. Rare aquatic and marsh 
plants abound/in the plain above 
Faenza. 

ForlL — ^Hotel : La Poste. Popu- 
lation, 16,000. A city at the foot 
of the Apennines, in a well- watered 
plain, removed from their unfer- 
tilizing influence. Its foundation 
is ancient, attributed indeed to 
M. L. Salinator, after the defeat of 



Asdrubal, near the Metaurus (the 
Carthaginian leader's tomb is 
pointed out near Urbino). The 
citizens were for a long time pros- 
perous and independent, but after 
many reverses Forli became another 
acquisition of Pope Julius II, 

The streets are adorned with 
piazzas, and a superior style of 
architecture prevails both in the 
public and private buildings ; one 
of the latter, the Guerrini palace, 
is asserted to be after a design ;Qf 
Michael Angelo Buonarotti. , ' * 

The chapel of Our Lady of Fire, 
in the cathedral, was wholly painted 
by C. Cignani, who devoted twenty 
years to the work. The other 
churches have undeniable claims to 
admiration for their paintings by 
C. Maratta, Guercino, and Guido. 

Forlimpopoli, with 4,000 inha- 
bitants, is on a high hill covered 
with vineyards. In 700, King Gri- 
moald destroyed the city, which in 
time was rebuilt, and re-ruined by 
the Cardinal-Legate Egidio Car- 
rila, a Spaniard. It was afterwards 
presented by Pope Alexander VI 
(Borgia) to his son Caesar ; and, 
strange as it may seem, the condi- 
tion of Forlimpopoli became worse 
after Caesar Borgia's death, for it 
was torn by the factions of the 
Sassi and the Fatuli. Pope Clement 
YII added it to the holy see. 

Forlimpopoli was the scene of 
one of the keenly -contested battles 
Murat fought in 1815 to retain the 
dominions which Davoust, in the 
retreat from Moscow, somewhat 
profanely reproached King Joachim 
with holding, not by the grace of 
God, but that of his brother-in-law. 

Polenta, from which sprung the 
Polentani family, lords of Ravenna. 

Cesena, with 8,000 souls, stands 
at the foot of a high mountain. Its 
streets are uneven ; but, as in many 
of the smaller Italian cities, only 
one of them is much frequented. 
The public buildings and churches 
are . of no great importance, but 



610 NORTHEEN ITALY.— ROUTE 113. BOLOGNA TO ANCONA. RIMINI. 



they are beautified with pictures, 
and by artists no less distinguished 
than Guercino, Sacchi, Francia, 
and Sassa Ferrate. Cesena is the 
birthplace of the two popes, Pius 
VI and Vn. 

Four miles distant is the Eubicon, 
now the PisciateUo, to which the 
passage of Caesar, with his " Jacta 
est alea," has given not only a 
classic celebrity but a proverbial 
existence in all modern tongues. 
The Rubicon then divided Italy and 
Cisalpine Gaul. It is proper to 
state that several neighbouring 
streams have their advocates as the 
real Rubicon ; one is even called H 
Rubicone. Of the locahty there is 
no doubt, though there may exist 
some as to the identical rivulet. 

Rimini. — Hotels : Xa Fontaine, and 
La Poste. Population, 10,000. A 
very ancient seaport near the em- 
bouchure of the Marecchia. One 
of its harbours has been filled up 
with deposits swept down from the 
Apennines ; it has another capable 
of holding its fishing craft. In Ri- 
mini was the famous council between 
the Ariaus and the Athanasians. 
The city attained great splendour 
under the Malatesta. 

Near St Julian's gate is a bridge 
as old as the reigns of Augustus 
and his successor, it stands at the 
junction of the Emilian and Flami- 
nian ways ; the stone is of a white- 
ness and beauty almost equal to 
marble, and is the same as that of 
the well-preserved triumphal arch 
of Augustus at the other side of 
the city, the grandeur of which is 
truly Roman. 

A mass of stones, near the church 
of the Capuchins, is said, though 
on slender authority, to be the 
remains of the amphitheatre of P. 
Sempronius. In the market place 
is a sort of pedestal, which tradition 
pronounces to have upheld the tri- 
bune from which Caesar addressed 
his legions after passing the Rubi- 
con. Near it St Anthony is reported 



to have preached, and on a very 
difierent mission ; it was at Rimini 
also the legend declares the saint 
to have indirectly rebuked the 
obduracy of the people by preach- 
ing to the attentive fishes of the 
canal. 

The old Cathedral, which was 
built on the ruins of a temple of 
Castor and Pollux, has been replaced 
by the present fabric, erected in the 
fifteenth century, on the admirable 
design of Leon Bajjtista Alberti. 
The church of St Julian contains a 
fine Paul Veronese. 

There are some handsome foun- 
tains in Rimini, one adorned with 
a statue of Pope Paul V. It is a 
city of high poetical celebrity. At 
St Arangelo, in the environs, Pope 
Clement XIV (GanganeUi) was 
born. 

Some twelve miles distant, toward 
the Apennines, on the brow of a 
mountain, stands 

San Marino. — The mountain and 
some neighbouring heights, giving 
a diameter of not much more than 
six miles, constitute the republic of 
San Marino with its 7,000 subjects. 
It has existed unchanged since the 
middle of the fourth century, whilst 
the rest of Italy, from Turin to 
Syracuse, has presented such a 
changeful and bloody drama. 

Marino, a mason of Dahiiatia and 
a Christian convert, after thirty 
years' labour in the port at Rimini, 
retii^ed to this mountain to lead a 
life of prayer and self-denial ; his 
retreat and the austerities he prac- 
tised became known, and he soon 
had disciples and imitators. A 
princess to whom the mountam 
belonged gave it in full proprietor- 
ship to Marino, who founded not a 
convent but a repubhc, stating his 
conviction that the precepts of the 
gospel accorded well with the re- 
quirements of society. 

The annals of this diminutive re- 
public offer little or nothing to the 
historian, neither conauest nor deed 



ROMAN STATES. — ^RODTB 113. BOLOGNA TO ANCONA. PESARO. Gil 



of arms — nothing better th,an 1,500 
years of peaceful good fortune; that 
it was never either feared or for* 
midable is undoubtedly the reason 
why it was allowed to exist unas- 
sailed through so many turbulent 
ages; it was even unappropriated 
by Napoleon. 

The republic possesses three 
castles, as many convents, and 
five churches. The city is often 
wrapped in clouds, whilst the lower 
ranges of the mountain are scorched 
by the summer sun. The vineyards 
among the rocks produce excellent 
wines. There is but one road, suf- 
ficiently good but steep, into the 
city, and it is expressly forbidden 
to approach it in any other direc- 
tion. The republicans are much 
attached to the place of their 
nativity, and very rarely quit it. 

La Cattolica, so called from its 
having been the retreat of the 
orthodox divines who separated 
themselves from the Arian bishops 
during the council of Eimini. 

Pesaro. — Hotel : L^Auherge de 
Parme. Population, 18,000. An 
ancient city near the mouth of the 
Foglio. It was united to the states 
of the church by Pope Urban 

vm. 

Pesaro is surrounded with walls 
and bastions ; the port is small but 
commodious — the streets wide and 
straight. In the public place is a 
fine fountain with a statue of Pope 
Clement XI (Albani), a native of 
the district. 

The city possesses a library, a 
museum, and a collection of medals 
bequeathed to it by the learned 
antiquary, Olivieri. The churches 
still enclose some fine paintings ; 
the best were conveyed to Paris, 
and were returned, not to their 
original occupancy, but to the halls 
of the Vatican, where they still 
remain. 

The bridge, the remains of which 
are still visible, is assigned by some 
to Augustus, by others to Trajan. 



The air is now perfectly salu- 
brious from the draining of the 
marshes; the neighbourhood is very 
rich in vineyards, olive groves, and 
gardens ; the figs are excellent. 
In this neighbourhood the Princess 
of Wales, afterwards Queen Caro- 
line, possessed a villa, now the pro- 
perty of a family whose name was 
once familiar to English ears — that 
of Bergami. In the garden are 
the two monuments the princess 
erected— to her daughter and to 
" Brunswick's fated chieftain," her 
brother, who fell at Waterloo. 

Twenty miles from Pesaro is 

Urbino, the capital of the delega,- 
tion, containing 14,000 souls, a city 
whose name is imperishable, for it 
is blended with that of Eaphael. 
The house where the divine painter 
was born still esists ; but not one 
of his works is to be seen in Urbino. 
This city also gave birth to Poly- 
dore, Virgil, Bramante, and Baroc- 
chio. 

Fano (in the direct route), a sea- 
port, with 17,000 inhabitants. Of 
its Roman existence little remains 
beyond a triumphal arch, also to 
Augustus, to Avhich Constantine 
made some additions; of the famous 
Temple of Fortune (Fano being the 
ancientFanum Fortun8e)not a trace 
remains. 

Fano is well built, and possesses 
more even than an Italian average 
of fine churches and paintings. The 
frescoes in the cathedral are by 
Dominichino, The theatre is very 
remarkable for its size and antiquity, 
as well as for its interior decorations 
and arrangements. 

Near this city the sea abounds 
with the fish called sea-horses, 
from the head and neck having a 
sort of mane, ofiering some resem- 
blance to that of the horse. 

The roads branch in aU directions 
from Fano, and are generally ex- 
cellent. 

Capo Marotta, beyond which the 
road ascends between the rivers 



612 



NORTHERN lTALY.-^ROUTE 113. BOLOGNA TO ANCONA. 



Gesano and Misa. They are only 
half a league apart. 

Sinigazlia. — Hotel: Ldcanda deUa 
Formica. Population, 8,000. On 
the coast and in a situation very 
favourable for trade, protected by 
a strong fort. The foundation of 
this city is assigned to the Senonian 
Gauls. Here Caesar Borgia com- 
mitted one of the most cold-blooded 
atrocities of which even he or his 
family were guilty — the murder of 
the captains, Vitelli, Paul and 
Francis Orsini, and Oliverotto, 
with the massacre of every soldier 
in Oliverotto's troop in their bar- 
racks. 

Paintings by PerUgino, Barocchio, 
and others adorn the churches. 

In Sinigazlia is held the large 
annual fair established in the thir- 
teenth century; it is perhaps the 
best, the busiest, and most charac- 
teristic in Italy; it forms an era in 
the quiet lives of the peasantry for 
very many miles round, and is the 
resort of traders from all parts ; the 
duties levied, despite a world of 
ingenious evasions and no lack of 
petty perjuries, are of considerable 
advantage to the revenue. The 
fair commences in July, and con- 
tinues nineteen days. 

Prom Case Bruciate the route is 
diverted from the coast, and pursued 
along a new road bending inland to 
Ancona. 

Ancona. — Hotels : La Paix, and Le 
Grande Bretagne. The population 
is 36,000, including the faubourgs, 
but exclusive of 5,000 Jews, who 
inhabit a separate quarter, in which 
they have a synagogue. 

Cato asserts that Ancona was 
originated by some Aborigines; 
Pliny and Strabo that it was 
founded, b c. 400, by Syracusans, 
who fled from their tyrant, Dio- 
nysius; others, that it was the 
work of Dorian Greeks, and en- 
larged by Syracusans. Juvenal 
applies to it the epithet " Doria," 
while the Greek word Tuvicc is not 



only similar in sound, but signifies 
an angle or curve, in which form 
Ancona is built. During the Roman 
empire this city was of high ac- 
count for the vividness of its dies 
and the gorgeous depth of its im- 
perial purple; it is indebted to 
Trajan for its present noble har- 
bour. 

After its conquest by King Agi- 
lulf it was the seatofamarquisate; 
from a corruption of the word 
(marchesato) the territory came 
to be styled and is still styled the 
March of Ancona. It was taken 
and sacked by the Saracens, rebuilt 
by the citizens, and continued free 
until the earlier part of the six- 
teenth century. Balba, bishop of 
Casali, and Gonzaga, the papal 
general, surprised it in 1532, and 
under pretext of protection against 
the Turks, induced the inhabitants 
to aid in erecting a fortress, which 
they filled with the pope's soldiery 
and subjugated the city. It con- 
tinued under the papal rule until 
1798, when it was taken and occu- 
pied by the French; the following 
year their general, Meunier, held it 
long and boldly before he would 
surrender to the besieging Russians 
and allies. At the dismemberment 
of the French kingdom of Italy, 
Ancona was restored to the holy see. 

This city is the capital of the 
delegation, the seat of a bishopric 
and of the higher tribunals ; it 
occupies, principally, the slopes of 
the hill of St Cyriac which sinks 
down into the gulf of Venice. 
There are two moles; on the old 
one is the grand triumphal arch of 
Trajan, of uncemented white mar- 
ble, and still presenting a dedicatory 
inscription. It is unquestionably 
one of the noblest monuments 
Roman power and art have be- 
queathed to Italy. On the new 
mole is the arch of Pope Clement 
XII; in any other place and com- 
pany it would be declared surpas- 
singly fine. 



BOMAN STATES. — ^ROUTE 114. BOLOGNA TO RAVEJTNA. 



613 



Ancona is in general well built, 
but very many of the streets are 
narrow and gloomy, and their ar- 
rangement, as a whole, is indif- 
ferent. The port is defended with 
batteries. 

The Cathedral occupies the point 
of a promontory on the site where 
a Temple of Venus stood ; the ar- 
chitecture and position are both 
striking, and the columns and 
other spoils of the Temple of Venus 
have been used in the construction 
of the interior. The great exter- 
nal ornament is the grand porch, 
with its clustered columns and 
crowded busts, the work of Marga- 
ritone. The cupola is believed to 
be one of the oldest in Italy. The 
walls are adorned with the frescoes 
of Gentili and Podesti, and tke 
paintings of Francesca, Lippi, and 
Guercino. Kelics abound, and the 
small subterranean chapel, as well 
as the Gianelli monuments, will 
well repay the time necessary for 
their examination. 

St Agostino contains pictures 
of a high degree of excellence ; its 
interior was restored by Vanvitelli. 
The grand doorway is a noble work 
in marble, and with statues, by 
Mocrio. 

The churches of the Incoronata, 
lUisericordia, St Niccolo, and St 
Pelagia are all deserving of a visit. 

The Government Palace is now 
the residence of the legate ; it is on 
an eminence and in a very pic- 
turesque situation. 

The Palace Ferrette is a proof 
how skilful Tibaldi was as painter 
and architect. In the Palace Man- 
eiforte is a fine gallery of paint- 
ings. 

The Loggia dei Marcanti (Ex- 
change) is a fine building, incrusted 
with marble ; the bas-reliefs Vasari 
assigns to Mocrio, others to Georgio 
di Sebenico. The interior archi- 
tecture, the stucco ornaments, and 
paintings after the manner of Mi- 
chael Angelo, are all by Tibaldi. 



The Grand Lazaretto was erects 
by Clement XII, the greatest be- 
nefactor of all the popes to Ancona ; 
at the erection of this building, 
which is pentagonal, Ancona was 
declared a free port. 

Ancona is one of the busiest 
cities in Italy ; its trade is consi- 
derable with several European 
ports and with the Levant, the 
Hebrew population being actively 
engaged in commerce. A well-fre- 
quented fair is held, opening on 
each 20th of August. 

Connoisseurs in female beauty 
pronounce the women along this 
coast of the Adriatic the hand- 
somest in Italy — a reputation they 
appear to have long enjoyed. 



EOUTE 114. 

BOLOGNA TO RAVENNA- 

From Bologna to Faenza, see the 
preceding Koute : 3^ postes. 

From Faenza there is a road of 
recent construction to Eavenna. 

To the left is Lugo^ a town with 
nearly 10,000 inhabitants. It was 
built by the Bolognese ; the French 
sacked it in 1796. 

Fusignano, also to the left, is the 
birthplace of Corelli, the musician, 
and the modern poet, Vincent 
Monti. 

JBagnacavallo, a small town, with 
a noble castle. 

Some unimportant villages and 
rivulets are passed, and then the 
Montone, rushing from the Apen- 
nines to finish its impetuous course 
in the Adriatic. 

Ravenna (2J postesj. — Hotel : Xa 
Spada. Population, 16,000. Ea- 
venna is one of the cities of such 
bygone importance, that its history 
"in little" is a catalogue rather than 
a sketch. Although mentioned by 
some of the earlier Eoman writers, it 
was a place of no importance until 
the reign of Augustus. Silvius 
Staticus . calls it " the marshy," aa. 



614 



NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 114. BOLOGNA TO RAVENNA.'' 



epithet particularly well deserved. 
Augustus dug a port at Ravenna, 
then close to the sea (now four 
miles distant), in which rode the 
fleet of the Adriatic ; two forts de- 
fended the entrance. Early in the 
fifth century Honorius made it 
the imperial residence, for its mo- 
rasses offered insuperable obstacles 
to the barbarians ; here he and his 
successors found an inglorious se- 
curity until Ravenna fell, and with 
it the western empire of the Csesars, 
before Odoacer, who in his turn 
yielded it to Theodoric, King of the 
Goths. The great generals of Jus- 
tinian, Belisarius and Narses, hav- 
ing won for the eastern emperor 
some portion of Italy, it was go- 
verned by exarchs, and Ravenna 
was the capital. Narses was the 
first exarch, Eutichius the last. 
From that period this " fortress of 
falling empire" gradually declined 
under successive masters, until it 
became subject to Venice, and 
flourished under that power to its 
cession to Pope Julius II. 

The city now presents an impos- 
ing aspect of antiquity, but of an 
antiquity almost without life ; it is 
surrounded with walls, and its pine 
forest still glooms around it ; indeed 
all the interest it inspires lies in 
the past. 

The Cathedral was built in the 
fourth century, but a modern 
structure has superseded it. In 
the interior graceful columns of 
antique marble support the middle 
nave. Two lateral chapels are 
beautiful with the frescoes of 
Guide. In this cathedral is also, 
Moses bringing down the Manna — 
a great work of that great master. 
Among its more curious possessions 
is a carved ivory seat, called St 
Maximinian's chair, and an 
almanack, from 532 to 626, in 
marble. 

The Church of St Vitale is not 
only thickly adorned with mosaics 
and bas-reliefs, but the mosaics are 



of the reign of Justinian (when the 
church was built), and are still 
fresh, warm, and beautiful. St 
Vitale is octagonal, and its style is 
strictly Byzantine. In the garden 
of the Benedictine convent, annex- 
ed to this church, is the once 
most splendid, and still very noble, 
sepulchre of a woman remarkable 
for her rank, slavery, vicissitudes, 
and vices — the Empress Galla 
Placidia. 

The churches of Ravenna, more 
than any other city, not even 
excepting Rome, are interesting to 
the Christian antiquary ; the most 
distinguished either for their anti- 
quity, architecture, or adornments, 
are St Romualdo, St John the 
Baptist, St Maria del Porto, St 
Dominico, St Apollinare Nuovo, St 
Francesco, St Agata, Santo Spirito, 
and St Mccoli. 

St Apollinare is out of the city, 
in the Classe faubourg, on the edge 
of tt^e Pineta. It is an ancient 
basilica (534), and perhaps the 
best existing specimen of early 
Christian art. In the nave and the 
aisles are portraits, either mosaics 
or paintings, of the prelates of 
Ravenna, from St Apollinare, who 
underwent martyrdom in 74, to the 
present archbishop, the 126th in 
succession. 

The magnificent Mausoleum of 
King Theodore, a mile beyond the 
gates, is now the Church of St 
Maria della Rotonda. The large 
porphyry sarcophagus, containing 
the ashes of the monarch, has been 
removed from the summit, and 
conveyed, it is said, to the city, 
where it is to be seen at the base of 
the wall, which is all that now 
remains of Theodoric's palace ; but 
some antiquaries pronounce that 
relic not a sarcophagus, but a bath. 

That which, of more modern 
attributes, distinguishes Ravenna 
beyond the cities of the Peninsula, 
is, that in it lie all that could perish 
of Dante. His tomb was built by 



ROMAN STATES. — ROUTE 115. ANCONA TO ROME. LORETO. 615 



Bernard Bembo, in 1483, and has 
since been frequently repaired and 
embellished, not always with fitting 
taste. 

Not far from the tomb of Dante 
is the house of Lord Byron, where 
he wrote his tragedies, and some of 
his poems ; many of his stanzas, 
breathing the purest and noblest 
spirit of poesy, relate to Eavenna ; 
they are familiar or accessible to 
all people, so that it would be su- 
perfluous to quote them at length. 

Near Ravenna was fought, in 
1512, the obstinate and sanguinary 
battle between the Erench under 
their youthful general, Gaston de 
Foix, and the allied Spanish and 
papal force. Nearly 20,000 were 
left dead upon the field, and it was 
the last fight of Gaston de Foix : 
he was killed at the close of the 
action, when the Spanish army 
retreated in compact order. A 
column has been erected in comme- 
moration of this event. JBjesides 
Bayard, and the other great cap- 
tains, there were present at this 
battle the Cardinal de Medici (after- 
wards Pope Leo X), who was taken 
prisoner, CastigUone, and Ariosto. 
A mile from Ravenna is the 
Pineta (pine forest) once supplying 
the Roman navy with timber ; it 
extends many miles along the coast 
of the Adriatic. Boccaccio, Dry- 
den, and Byron have made it of 
undying interest. 

A canal connects Ravenna with 
the sea. The surrounding district 
is still low and swampy, but canals 
and some improvement in agricul- 
ture have improved the air and the 
fruitfulness of the soil. 



ROUTE 115. 

AXCONA TO ROME. 

Distance, 24 postes. 



From Ancona to Osimo 

— Loreto 

— Recanati 



Postes. 

- n 

- 1 

- 01 



Postes. 

From Recanati to Sambucheto 0| 

— Macerata - - - 1 

— Tolentino - . . l| 

— Valcimara - - - ) 

— Ponte della Trave - 1 

— Seravalle - - - 1 

— Case Nuove - - - 1 

— Foligno - - - 1 

— Le Vene - - 1 

— Spoleto - - - 1 

— La Strettura - - - 1 

— Terni - - - . i 

— Narni - - -. - 1 

— Otricoli - - - 1 

— Borghetto - - - 0| 

— Civita Castellana - - Of 

— Nepi . - - . 1 

— Monterosi - - - OJ 

— Baccano - - - 1 

— La Storta - - - I 

— Rome - - - - li 

(From Rome to La Storta, 1|.) 

From Ancona to Loreto by 
Osimo, the road, which is steep 
and fatiguing, runs through a beau- 
tiful and higlily cultivated country. 
Loreto. — Hotel : Z,a Cloche. 
Population about 8,000. Loreto is 
on the brow of a hill ; the principal 
street presents a double row of 
shops for the sale of chaplets, 
rosaries, medals, and all kinds of 
devotional articles ; a trade esti- 
mated at about 90,000 pauls an- 
nually. Pope Sixtus V surrounded 
Loreto with a massive wall, to pro- 
tect it from the Turks, who made 
several descents on the coast in 
hopes of a matchless booty from the 
plunder of the shrine. The whole 
interest of the place centres in 

La Santa Casa, the cottage hal- 
lowed by the birth and abode of 
the Blessed Virgin ; this sacred 
dwelling was transported, according 
to the legends of the church, from 
Nazareth to Dalmatia, and from 
Dalmatia to its present site, which 
it did not finally occuj)y until it 
made several changes of occupation 
in the surrounding forest. It is 
now placed within a church, the 
Chiesa della Santa, one of the most 
costly and elaborate in Italy. The 
Santa Casa is placed under the 
cupola ; it is a small brick bmld- 



616 NORTHERN 1TM.T. — ROUTE 115. ANCONA TO ROME. MACERATA. 



ing, very rude and lowly ; the door 
and window posts are now covered 
with silver ; the pavement is in 
marble squares of contrasting 
colours, for the transporting angels, 
it is said, either left the original 
floor behind in Nazareth, or it fell 
out on the way. In a niche near 
the hearth is the statue of the 
Virgin, carved by St Luke ; it is of 
cedar wood, perfectly black with 
age and smoke ; the vestments 
dazzle with gold and precious stones 
in the hght of the ever burning 
silver lamps. It is ahnost impossible 
to describe the wealth of the in- 
terior, where the waUs are almost 
entirely hidden with bas -rehefs in 
gilded silver ; the exterior is cased 
in Carrara marble, and presents 
Corinthian columns, niches, statues 
of apostles and sybils, and bas- 
reliefs. The design was by Bra- 
mante, the statuary, &c. &c., by 
A. Sansovino, G. Lombardo, John 
of Bologna, and many of the first 
artists of that era of high art ; some 
of them, and a great many work- 
men, laboured gratuitously. Some 
of Sansovino's works in this sanctu- 
ary Vasari calls " divine." 

The pictures of Guido, Andrea 
del Sarto, Guercino, Titian, and 
other great masters adorn the sanc- 
tuary, or the charitable institutions 
connected with it. In the dispen- 
sary (Spezieria) are three hundred 
earthenware vases, or gallipots, 
painted from the designs of Raphael 
and Julio Romano. For these gems 
of art silver vases have been of- 
fered and refused. 

The treasury was undeniably the 
richest in the world, until the 
necessities of Pope Pius compelled 
him to appropriate the sacred 
wealth in order to defray the sum 
stipulated to be paid to France by 
the treaty of Tolentino, in 1797. 
In the following year the Prench 
seized and sacked Loreto ; the 
statue of the Virgin was con- 
veyed to Paris, where it was sacri- 



legiously exhibited among mum- 
mies and scientific curiosities : it 
was restored in 1801. : 

The piety and munificence of the 
devout have again given wealth 
and splendour to Our Lady of 
Loreto. Some of the ofierings from 
popes, princes, and prelates, are 
most appropriate, others are strange 
enough ; a cannon ball wliich 
missed Pope Julius II, for in- 
stance, and the nuptial garments 
of the King of Saxony. 

Becanati, a little town of some 
antiquity. From the mountain of 
Recanati water is conveyed by a 
very noble aqueduct to Loreto. 

Macerata. — Hotel : Za Paste, 
chez Monichesi. Population, 16,000. 
This well-built city is equi-distant 
from the Adriatic and the Ajjen 
nines. The churches are enriched 
with paintings, and some of the 
private galleries exhibit choice 
collections. The theatre is by the 
same ^architect as the cathedral 
— the Chevalier MoreUi. Macerata 
is the capital of a delegation, and 
contains an university and some 
collegiate establishments. There 
is little trade, but excellent society. 

Out of the city is a stupendous 
enclosure, by Alcandri, devoted to 
the national sport called pallone 
(resembling foot-ball), a place which 
has no rival for its noble spacious- 
ness. 

The plain beyond Macerata is 
not unfruitful, but much inferior 
to the country from Recanati. In 
this plain was fought the conclusive 
battle between the Neapolitans and 
Austrians, which cost Murat his 
crown, and, six months after, his 
life. 

Tolentino, a Httle city on the 
Chienti, of no celebrity except 
what it derives from having been 
the scene of the treaty between 
Bonaparte and the Papal Commis- 
sioners in 1797. Among other ter- 
ritories the pope ceded those of 
Avignon, which of all Napoleon's 



KOMAN STATES. — ROUTE 115. ANCONA TO ROME. 8P0LETO. 617 



conquests is the only one Prance 
now retains. 

After Tolentino the road winds 
among the Apennines. 

Valcimara, a village in a valley 
abounding with noble oaks. 

Camerino is a town (drowning a 
mountainous eminence to the left. 

SeravaUe, a town in a defile be- 
tween two mountains hardly a 
thousand feet asunder ; it is the line 
of demarcation between the March 
of Ancona and Umbria. The ruins 
of the old walls and a castle built by 
the Goths are visible. 

Colfiorito, where is a lake famous 
for leeches, and after it Case Nuove, 
are passed to 

Fo%wo. — Hotels : V Hotel Nou- 
veau. La Poste, Les Trois Maures. 
The population of this pleasant city 
is 8,000 ; the vaUey of the Spole- 
tano, in which it stands, is watered 
by the classic stream of the Clitum- 
nus. The ToppinO bathes the waUs 
of Faligno. 

The streets are in general straight 
and some even elegant. The cathe- 
dral and the Franciscan and Au- 
gustine churches are worthy of 
notice. In the convent of the Con- 
tesses, its beautiful cupola, designed 
by Bramante, was the " Madonna 
di Foligno " of Eaphael ; it was one 
of the French spoils, was duly re- 
turned from the Louvre but not 
from the Vatican. 

The society here is excellent, and 
there is a considerable trade in silk 
and wooUen cloths. The climate is 
dehghtfully mild, considering the 
position of Foligno. The earth- 
quakes of 1832 caused very serious 
injuries to the buildings of this city. 

Midway between Foligno and 
Spoleto (after leaving Trevi, the 
Trebia of Pliny, to the left) is 

Le Vene, on the Flaminian way; 
and in this locality, by the source of 
the Chtumnus, stands a small an- 
tique temple, which there is good 
reason to believe is the very building 
Bliny describes as existing and an- 



cient in his day. Notwithstanding 
the scepticism of many learned 
antiquaries, and the controversy in 
which so " much learned dust in- 
volved the combatants," there can 
be little doubt this is the identical 
temple Pliny describes, or a pre- 
cisely similar one built on its exact 
site, which is not very probable. It 
has been consecrated, and is now 
used for public worship. 

Spoleto, a very ancient city, with 
a present population of 6,000, said 
to be built on an extinct crater. 
The streets are narrow and hilly. 
Spoleto has been called the Saviour 
of Kome, for Hannibal believed there 
was no obstacle between his victory 
at Thrasimene and the seizure of 
Kome ; but he encountered so reso- 
lute a resistance at Spoleto that his 
triumphal career was checked, ""-^ 
he was obliged to withdraw - 
forces from before that city. 

The ancient splendour of Spoleto 
is manifested by the ruins of a 
theatre and of the palace, built by 
Theodoric and restored by Nars s; 
the site of the temple of Conci x^ 
is occupied by the church of i e 
Crucifix, in which six beauti jJ 
pillars of the heathen edifice j re 
preserved, the case also in the cc n- 
vent of St Andrew and the church of 
St .Julian; above all, the remains of a 
bridge above 200 feet long, 140 high, 
resting on twenty -four thick piles. 
It is uncertain whether this bridge 
was the work of the Romans or tl-: 
Goths ; its remains are now made 
serviceable as an aqueduct. In 
Spoleto the earthquake of 1767 com- 
mitted great ravages. 

The front of the cathedral is old 
mosaic work, the choir was painted 
by Philippo Lippi, a Florentine, 
who is buried in it; he was poisoned 
by the family of a noble lady whom 
he had persuaded to leave her con- 
vent. The chapel of the Aneajani 
palace possesses a fine Raphael. 

The district is in general fruitful, 
and the. wine of high repute ; the 



618 



NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 115. ANCONA TO ROME. 



mountain prospects in the environs 
are magnificent, and among the 
momitains hermitages are very fre- 
quent. 

A little way from Spoleto the 
road attains its highest elevation in 
winding over Mont Somma. 

Terni. — Hotel: L' Europe. Popu- 
lation, 7,000. The foundation of 
Terni is reputed to be as old as 
Eome. It was the birthplace of 
the Emperor Tacitus, and of an- 
other Tacitus much better known — 
the great historian. In Terni, as 
in most of the cities in this route, 
are the remains of Roman magni- 
ficence : the ruins of an amphi- 
theatre in the gardens of the arch- 
bishop, of a temple of the Sun in 
the church of St Salvador, and ol 
some baths in the comitry mansion 
of the Spadas. 

If Terni offer Httle to gratify the 
traveller, he is more than recom- 
pensed by the Cadute delle Marmore. 
Four miles from the city " Velino 
cleaves the wave-worn precipice." 
The cascade is best known to an 
Englishman as the Falls of Terni. 
The Velino descends from the moun- 
tains of the Upper Albruzzi, passes 
through the Rieti, "the Italian 
Tempe," and falls into the lake 
Lugo. The falls may in one sense 
be called artificial. In the year of 
Rome, 671, Curius Dentatus, to 
deliver the Reatine territory from 
the frequent inundations of the 
lake, diverted the course of the 
Velino from the lake, and by means 
of a canal carried the precipitous 
waters of that river down a preci- 
pice of little less than a thousand feet 
into the Nar. The roar is like im- 
broken thunder, and as the head- 
long waters break upon the rocks, 
they form not so much spray as 
what maybe called water dust, which 
falls hke dew upon all surrounding 
objects. At sunrise every particle 
of this spray catches and reflects 
the solar beams, and a thousand 
rainbows jostle, dance, rise, and 



fall about the matchless cataract. 
A south wind drives the spray 
against the mountain side, which 
it covers like a veil. The sun, 
seen tlirough this watery medium, 
resembles a rainbow of the most vivid 
hues. Lord Byron's lines read as if 
they must have been written on 
the spot, when full of the inspir- 
ing influence of the genws loci 
He strongly recommends travellers 
to "trace the Velino at least as 
high as the little lake called the 
Pie'diLup." 

There are two points of view 
— ^from the heights and from the 
valley on the opposite side ; the 
lower one is the best, but less easily 
accessible than the higher. 

Beyond Terni the meadows be- 
come more verdant, the land gener- 
ally much better cultivated, and 
plantations of mulberries and fruit 
trees very frequent. Two aque- 
ducts now, as of yore, supply irri- 
gation to the plains. 

Narni, a small but ancient city — ■ 
the old Colonia Narnia. In 1527, 
when Charles V besieged Pope Cle- 
ment VIII in the castle of St 
Angelo, the Venetian troops, on 
their march to join the emperor's 
standard, utterly destroyed ISTarni ; 
they spared neither women nor 
babes, and burnt or demolished the 
public and private buildings, so 
that Narni now offers little to de- 
tain the traveller beyond the stately 
ruins of a bridge attributed to the 
great bridge builder, Augustus 
Caesar. Narni was the birthplace 
of the Emperor Nerva. 

In the environs of Narni is seen a 
canal dug in the heart of the moun- 
tains ; it is fifteen miles long, and 
supplies water to a great many 
fountains. 

In the descent from Narni to 
Otricoli the road emerges from the 
chain of the Apennines. 

OlricoU stands on a hill ; ruins 
announce its byegone splendour ; 
ia fact, the space between this town 



ROMAN STATES. — ROUTE 116. FLORENCE TO ROME Br SIENNE. 619 



and Kome was so covered with 
buildings of every character, that 
when the Emperor Constantine 
first entered Italy and reached Otri- 
coli he beheved he was at Rome. 

Beyond Otricoli " old Tiber," on 
his way to his " marble wilderness," 
is crossed by a bridge of three 
arches, built by Augustus, and re- 
paired by Pope Sixtus V. In the 
environs are deep ravines, showing 
the power of some old volcanic 
convulsion. In this neighbourhood 
Marshal Macdonald, with very in- 
ferior forces, overthrew the Nea- 
politan general. Mack, 

Borghetto, not far from which is 

Civita Caste-lario (Hotel : La 
Poste), pronounced by some the 
celebrated city of the Veii ; by 
others, the ancient capital of the 
Falisci. The present city is small, 
badly built, and thinly peopled. 
The palace of Pope Alexander VII 
is now a state prison. Prom the 
elevated parts of the city is a com- 
manding view of the fort of Serra 
Caprarola, on the famous Mons 
Soracte, now St Oreste. In this 
neighbourhood, also, the ground has 
been riven into deep and frightful 
chasms, but they are generally 
clothed with wood, and with beau- 
tiful parasitical plants. 

At Civita CasteUana it is usual 
to quit the Flaminian way, now 
in bad condition, and pursue the 
new road through Nepi to the high- 
way from Florence to Rome. 

Monterosi, a fortress on the brow 
of a hni. A few years ago many 
subterranean ways and some 
Etruscan monuments were dis- 
covered here. 

On leaving Monterosi the air is 
found to be unhealthy, especially 
in the night. 

Baccano, where is seen a small 
lake in the crater of an old volcano. 

This portion of the route ofiers 
nothing either interesting or pic- 
turesque — ^nothing to announce the 
approach to a city, and that city 



Rome ; but when an adjacent emi- 
nence is attained, St Peter's, and 
the seven hiUs, and the coimtless 
spires of the Eternal City greet the 
eye. 

The last post station is La Storta. 

ROUTE 116. 

FLORENCE TO ROilE BT StENNE. 



Distance, 23| postes. 



Pos 



01 



From Florence to Caselano 

— Tavernelle 

— Poggibonsi 

— Castiglioncello 

— Sienne - - . 

— Montarone 

— Buoncovento 

— Torrenieri 

— Podenini 

— Ricorsi 

— Radicofani 

— Pontecentino 

— Aquapendente 

— St Lorenzo 

— Bolsena 

— Montefiascone 

— Viterbo 

— L'lmposta 

— Ronciglione 

— Monterosi 

— Baccano 

— La Storta 

— Rome . _ . 



This route is considerably shorter 
than that through Perugia, yet it 
wiU take five good days with the 
same horses, starting early every 
morning. Except at Sienne the 
inns are most wretched, filthy 
places, and I most earnestly entreat 
aU who can possibly support the 
motion of a vessel to go by sea. 
After you quit Tuscany the entire 
road is most barren, with a repeti- 
tion of the fare I met with on the 
Simplon — hard beds, hard eggs, 
hard water, hard bread, and ever- 
lasting hard old hens. 

The road from Florence through 
Poggibonsi to Sienne and Radico- 
fani was always tolerably good, 
though mountainous ; and has re- 
cently been so much improved, 
that some of the steepest hills are 
now avoided. 



620 NORTBERlf ITALY. — ROOTE 116. FLORENCE TO ROME. SIENNE. 



Sieiine, formerly called Sena Julia, 
is by some authors supposed to 
have been an ancient toAvn of 
Etruria ; others attribute its foun- 
dation to the Gauls, who marched 
to Kome under the command of 
Brennus ; but Cramer thinks it 
was a colony founded either by 
Julius Caesar or Augustus, and 
called Sena Julia, to distinguish it 
from Sena Gallica in Umbria. It 
stands on the acclivity of a tufa 
mountain, or, perhaps, more pro- 
perly speaking, the crater of an 
extinct volcano, and once contained 
a hundred thousand inhabitants, 
though its present population does 
not amount to a fifth part of that 
number. The buildings are hand- 
some, and the streets airy ; but 
many of them so much up and down 
hiU, as to be scarcely practicable 
for carriages. The wine, water, 
bread, meat, and fruits, are excel- 
lent ; the upper classes of persons 
well educated, pleasing, and re- 
markably kind to foreigners ; and 
the Tuscan language is said to be 
spoken here in its utmost per- 
fection. 

Some remains of the old walls of 
Sienne are discoverable near the 
church of St Antonio ; and se- 
veral ancient grottoes, cellars, sub- 
terranean aqueducts, &c., exca- 
vated under the mountain, merit 
notice. 

The Cathedral, which occupies 
the site of a temple dedicated to 
Minerva, is a master piece of Tuscan- 
Gothic architecture, incrusted with- 
out and within with black and white 
marble : it was erected about the 
year 1250. Near the great door are 
two vases for holy water ; the one 
executed by Giacomo delia Quer- 
ela, the other an antique, found at 
the same time with the Graces ; and 
both these vessels contain marble 
fish, so weU done that they appear 
to be swimming. The pavement is 
one of the most curious works of 
art in Italy ; and consists of scrip- 



tural histories, wrought in mosaic. 
The story of Moses was designed 
by Beccafumi. The story of Joshua 
is by Buccio di Buoninsegna, Sanese. 
In the pavement are likewise repre- 
sented the emblems of cities once 
in alliance with Sienne. The pave- 
ment of the area under the cupola, 
and that before the high altar re- 
presenting Abraham's intended Sa- 
crifice of his Son, are particularly 
celebrated ; and the latter is attri- 
buted to Meccarino. The art of 
paving in this beautiful way, or, more 
properly speaking, of representing 
figures in black and white marble 
thus exquisitely, is now lost. Near the 
entrance of the choir are four large 
frescoes by Salimbeni. The Chigi 
chapel contains a copy, in Roman 
mosaic, of a painting by Carlo Ma- 
ratta ; a statue of the Magdalene, 
by Bernini; and three other statues, 
by his scholars. The chapel of St 
Giovanni contains a statue of that 
saint by Donatello. This cathedral 
is adorned with painted glass win- 
dows, executed in 1549 ; and busts 
of all the popes down to Alexander 
III : among these formerly was the 
bust of Pope Joan, with the follow- 
ing inscription under it : " Johannes 
VIII, Faemina de Anglia." 

The Library, or Sacristy, contains 
some volumes of church music, well 
worth notice, on account of the illu- 
minations with which they are deco- 
rated : here likewise is a celebrated 
antique group, in marble, of the 
Graces, which was found under the 
church ; and on the walls are fres- 
coes representing the principal trans- 
actions of the life of Pius II. Two 
very elegant modern monuments, one 
of which was executed by Ricci, 
ornament this sacristy. 

The tower of the Palazzo della 
Signoria, commonly called del Man- 
gia, and built by Agnolo and Agos- 
tino, in 1325, is a fine piece of 
architecture. 

The churches of the Spedale 
di St Maria della Scala, the 



EOMAN STATES. — ^ROUTE 116. FLORENCE TO ROME BY SIENNE. 621 



Agostiniani, St Martino di Proven- 
zans, St Quirino, del Carmine, and 
the church of the Camaldolensi, on 
the outside of the town, contain good 
pictures. 

The Church of St Lorenzo is 
famous for an ancient Roman in- 
scription, and a well, at the bottom 
of which is a sort of fountain, sup- 
ported by columns apparently of 
high antiquity : and the Dominican 
church contains a paiating of the 
Madonna with our Saviour in her 
arms, executed by Guido di Siena 
in 1221, nineteen years before the 
birth of Cimabue. 

The Palazzo degli Eccelsi contains 
the Sala della Pace, ornamented with 
paintings which represent, on one 
side the Recreations of Peace, and 
on the other. Tyranny, Cruelty, 
Deceit, and War; the Sala di Con- 
siglio, where are paintings relative 
to the history of Sienne, and other 
subjects, by Bartoli; the Sala di 
Balia, ornamented with paintings 
which represent the Life of Alex- 
ander m, and are highly valuable, 
exhibiting the costume of the age in 
which they were done; the Sala del 
Consistorio, embellished with some 
of Beccafumi's finest frescoes, and 
the Judgment of Solomon, by Luc 
Giordano, &c. The theatre forms 
a part of this palazzo, and is a large 
and commodious building. 

The fountain, constructed in 11 93, 
is so famous for the quantity and 
quality of its water, as to be men- 
tioned in the 'Inferno' of Dante: 
indeed there are few cities placed 
in so elevated a situation as Sienne, 
which can boast such abundance of 
excellent water: and moreover, the 
climate, for persons not afflicted 
with weak lungs, is wholesome at 
aU seasons of the year. 

Sienne possesses a celebrated uni- 
versity, several academies, valuable 
libraries, museums, &c. ; and gave 
birth to Gregory VII and Alexander 
ni, two of the greatest sovereigns 
who ever filled the papal throne. 



The Environs of Sienne contain 
several villas deUghtfulIy calculated 
for summer habitations. 

Beyond Sienne, some leagues to 
the left of the high road, lies Ckiusi, 
the ancient Clusium, near the lake 
of Chiana, formerly Clanius. This 
city, once Porsena's capital, but at 
present thinly peopled, on account 
of its noxious air, contained the 
mausoleum of Porsena, described 
by Pliny in his 'Natural History.' 
This monument resembled that at 
Albano, which consists of a high 
square base, with five round pyra- 
mids placed upon it; one being in 
the centre, and one on each of the 
square corners. 

Chiusi contains a museum of 
Etruscan antiquities, excavated in 
that city. 

Buonconvento, pleasantly situated 
on the Ombrone, about fifteen miles 
from Sienne, is likewise infected with 
malaria, and here the Emperor Hem y 
Vn was poisoned by receiving the 
sacrament from a Dominican monk. 

San Quirico, placed in a healthy 
air, amidst olive trees and vine- 
yards, contains a small Tuscan- 
Gothic church, the nave and choir 
of which merit notice ; a palace 
belonging to the Chigi family ; a 
curious well, opposite to the palace; 
and an ancient square tower, sup- 
posed to be of Roman origin. 

Near the mountain of Radicofani 
the soil is volcanic and the country 
wild and desolate ; the road, how- 
ever, is excellent, the ascent five 
miles in length, and the descent the 
same. Radicofani, which rises 2,470 
feet above the level of the Mediter- 
ranean sea, exhibits on its summit 
large heaps of stones, supposed to 
be the mouth of an extinct volcano. 
This is the frontier of Tuscany ; and 
at the foot of the mountain, on the 
way to Torrecelli, the road traverses 
a torrent, sometimes dangerous after 
rain. Beyond TorreceUi stands 

Ponie Centino, the first village of 
the ecclesiastical state. This coun- 



622 NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 116. FLORENCE TO ROME BY SIENNE. 



try is embellished with woods, and 
a fine bridge, thrown across the 
Paglia. Passports and luggage 
examined. 

Aquapendente, the approach is 
particularly beautiful ; this was the 
Aqula of the ancients, and derives 
its appellation from the waterfalls 
in its vicinity. 

Hence the road traverses a vol- 
canic plain to 

San Lorenzo JVuovo, a remarkably 
well constructed, clean, and pretty 
village, which possesses the advan- 
tages of wholesome air and good 
water, and was built by Pius VI, 
that the inhabitants of what is now 
caUed St Lorenzo Eovinato might 
remove hither to avoid the pesti- 
lential atmosphere of the latter 
place. 

Not far distant from St Lorenzo 
Nuovo is 

Bohena, supposed to cover part 
of the site of the ancient Volsinium, 
one of the principal cities of Etruria, 
and whence the Romans, 265 years 
before Christ, are said to have 
removed 2,000 statues to Eome. 
About the period when Pyrrhus 
waged war against that city, Vol- 
sinium became so much enervated 
by wealth and luxury, as to allow 
its slaves to overthrow its govern- 
ment : in short, its citizens were 
under the necessity of seeking pro- 
tection from the Romans, who 
quickly subdued and punished the 
rebels. The Etruscan goddess, Nor- 
tia, was worshipped at Volsinium ; 
and, according to Livy. the people 
of this town marked the years by 
fixing nails in her temple. Remains 
of a building denominated the Tem- 
ple of Nortia may still be seen at 
Bolsena, as may Etruscan orna- 
ments, which adorn the front of the 
parochial church ; and opposite to 
this edifice is a sarcophagus of 
Roman workmanship. In the en- 
virons are remains of an amphi- 
theatre, together with an immense 
quantity of broken cornices, capi- 



tals of pillars, ancient mosaics, &c. 
This now unimportant village is 
seated on a magnificent lake of the 
same name, anciently called Lacus 
Volsiniensis, and thirty-five Roman 
miles in circumference : this lake 
contains two small islands ; it is 
supposed to be the crater of a 
volcano. Nothing can exceed the 
beauty of the views in this neigh- 
bourhood, but the air is unwhole- 
some from malaria. 

North-east of Bolsena, where the 
Clanis receives the little river Pag- 
lia (the Vallia of the Itineraries), 
stands Orvieto (anciently Herba- 
num), celebrated for the excellence 
of its wines, and containing a hand- 
some Tuscan -Gothic cathedral 

Between Bolsena and Montefias- 
cone, the road passes close to a 
remarkable hill, covered with regu- 
lar prismatic basaltine columns, 
most of them standing obliquely, 
and a considerable length out of 
the ground : mdeed, the whole 
country, so far as Montefiascone, 
exhibits rocks of basalt, interspersed 
with forest scenery ; and near the 
above-named hill is an ancient 
tomb, erected, according to the in- 
scription it bears, by L. Canuleius, 
for himself and his family. 

Mo7iiefta scone, a very finely-situ- 
ated though not a handsome town, 
produces such excellent wine, that 
a prelate died from drinking it to 
excess ; it is called Est, and costs 
three pauls a bottle. 

Between Montefiascone and Vi- 
terbo the country is dreary ; and' 
about a mile and a half from the 
latter town, on the right, is a lake 
of hot water, easy of access, and 
worth notice : its diameter is 136' 
palmi, its depth about forty-three, 
palmi ; and, although it seems to 
boil, it does not raise Reaumur's 
thermometer higher than fifty -four. 
The exhalations from this lake are 
sulphureous, and the water leaves 
on the gromid over which it runs a 
white tartaric deposit. 



BOMAN STATES. — ROUTE 116. FLORENCE TO ROSIE BY SIENNE. 623 



Viterbo, supposed to occupy the 
place of the Fanum Voltumuffi, 
celebrated as the spot where the 
general assembly of the Etruscans 
was held on solemn occasions, is 
situated at the base of Mont Cimino, 
anciently Mons Ciminus, and en- 
compassed by walls flanked with 
towers, which give it, at a distance, 
a splendid appearance : it contains 
about 13,000 inhabitants, is well 
built, well paved, and embellished 
with handsome fountains and a fine 
gate, erected by Clement XTLL 

The road from Viterbo to Ron- 
ciglione traverses part of the Mont 
Cimino, amidst flowers, odoriferous 
herbs, oaks, chestnuts, and other 
forest trees ; and at the base of this 
mountain, near Ronciglione, is the 
lake of Vico, anciently Lacus Cimi- 
nus, encircled with richly- wooded 
hills, and forming a beautiful basin 
of near three miles in circumference, 
said to have been the funnel of a 
volcano, and where, as tradition 
reports, a. city called Succinium 
once stood, but was suddenly swal- 
lowed up in the depths of the lake. 
The Ciminian forest, described by 
ancient writers as being almost 
impenetrable, is said to have covered 
the comitry round this lake to an 
immense extent 

Nine leagues from Viterbo, but 
not on the high road, is Corneto, 
remarkable for the number of 
Etruscan antiquities which have 
been and still are to be found in its 
vicinity ; and one league north of 
Corneto is a hill called Civita Tur- 
china, upon which the ancient Tar- 
quinii (one of the twelve great 
cities of Etruria) is supposed to 
have stood. Several little emi- 
nences called Monti Rozzi, and 
supposed to have been the Necro- 
polis of Tarquinii, lie between this 
hill and the town of Corneto ; and 
those which have been opened 
exhibit subterraneous chambers cut 
in the tufa, lined with stucco, and 



filled with Etruscan vases and sar- 
cophagi 

Ronciglione is situated near a pic- 
turesque valley in a barren soil, 
where agriculture seems almost 
wholly neglected, and where the 
Campagna di Roma begins to feel 
the influence during hot weather of 
that wide-spreading and incompre- 
hensible pest, malaria. 

Near Monterosi (Mons Erosus), on 
the right, and not far distant from 
the high road, stands Sutri, for- 
merly the Etruscan town of Sutrium, 
where remains may be traced of an 
amphitheatre cut out of a hiU of 
tuta. The Loretto and Sienne roads 
form a junction on approaching 
Monterosi, contiguous to which is a 
lake occasionally offensive to the 
smeU. 

Baccano, the station on the Via 
Cassia, called in the ancient Itine- 
raries Baccanas, and placed in a 
peculiarly noxious air, is only two 
posts from Rome. The hill above 
Baccano commands a view of the 
cupola of St Peter's ; and on the 
left, about one mile and a half 
north-east of Storta, may be seen a 
village called Isola Earnesina ; and 
supposed to stand on the site of the 
CasteUum, erected by the Eabii to 
defend the Roman territories against 
the incursions of the Veientes. 

No country can be more dreary 
nor more neglected than that which 
lies between Baccano and the Ponte 
Molle. Erom the heights near this 
bridge Rome presents herself to 
view, gradually expanding as the 
road descends to the banks of the 
Tiber, a river which rises in the 
Apennine above Arretium, tra- 
verses Rome, and discharges itself 
into the sea at Ostia, after having 
been joined during a course of nearly 
150 miles by above forty tributary 
streams. The original name of this 
river is reported to have been 
Albula, afterwards changed to 
Tiberis, in memory of an Etruscan 



624 NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 117. FLORENCE TO ROME BY PERUGIA. 



prince called Tiberis or Thybris, 
who was drowned in its waters. 

Between Storta and the Ponte 
Molle is the tomb of P. Vibius 
Marianus, near which, on the left, 
was the old road from Rome to 
Veii. 

The Ponte Molle, anciently de- 
nominated Pons Milvius, is sup- 
posed to have been thrown over the 
Tiber by M. ^milius Scaurus, who 
was censor a. u. c. 644. This bridge 
is celebrated for the vision seen 
here by Constantine, and the vic- 
tory gained by that prince over 
the tyrant Maxentius, who was 
drowned in the river near this 
spot ; there are, however, scarce 
any remains of the ancient bridge 
except its fomidation. 

The approach to Rome is by the 
Via Cassia ; but after passing the 
Ponte Molle, the modern road 
nearly follows the direction of the 
ancient Via Flaminia, between the 
Pincian and the Marian hills. Near 
the Porta del Popolo, toward the 
Porta Pinciani, is the Muro torto, 
a part of the city wall which de- 
clines from its perpendicular ; and 
adjoining to this is another part of 
the wall, supposed to have been the 
sepulchre of the Domitii, and the 
depository of the ashes of Nero. 

* ROUTE 117. 

FLORENCE TO ROME BY PERUGIA 
AND FOLIGNO. 



Distance, 27^ postes. 

From Florence to Pontassieve 

— Incisa - _ . 

— Levane ... 

— St Giovanni 

— Ponticino 

— Arezzo _ - - 

— Rigutino - - - 

— Camascia - - - 

— Case del Piano 

— Magione - - - 

— Perugia - - . 

— St Maria degli Angeli 

— Foligno - - . 

— Foligno to Rome 



Postes. 



I2i 



Pontassieve is soon followed by 
Incisa, a little village, but with 
one proud distinction— in it the 
family of Petrarch had its origin. 
The Arno is crossed in this spot, 
and its left bank pursued through 
a delightful and fertile plain. 

As it is usual to leave the direct 
route for the sanctuaries of Vallom- 
brosa, Camaldoli, and Alvemia, we 
wiU devote a few lines to each. 

Vallomhrosa was founded by St 
John Gualbert in 1040; but in 1637 
the Abbe Mccolini rebuilt nearly 
the whole abbey, and enriched it 
with a library and a museum 
which has been since despoiled. 
The church is embellished with 
gilded stuccoes and paintings of 
merit ; in the sacristy is a fine 
piece of SabateUi's. At a little 
distance is an isolated rock called 
n Paradisino (the Little Paradise), 
where the saint dwelt before the 
foundation of his sanctuary ; from 
the summit is a noble prospect. 
Vallomhrosa is familiar to English 
ears from the often quoted lines of 
Milton. 

The Sanctuary of Camaldoli was 
founded in the eleventh century by 
St Romuald. Ninety-three years 
after the church and convent were 
destroyed by fire, but were soon 
rebuilt by the monks, who at that 
period were rich and powerful In 
1498 the Venetians, joined to the 
partisans of the Medici, attacked 
this convent, but encountered so 
unexpected and determined a re- 
sistance from the holy fathers that 
they were unable to possess them- 
selves of it, and meanly wreaked 
their spiteful disappointment in 
ravages of every kind. The vast 
moimtain wood, the convent, and 
the hermitage are the most remark- 
able objects. 

On the summit of the mountain 
of Alvernia, between the sources of 
the Arno and the Tiber, is the third 
sanctuary, occupied by mendicant 



ROMAN STATES. — ROUTE 117. FLORENCE TO ROME. AREZZO. 625 



friars. To this locality, before the 
sanctuary was built, St Francis of 
Assisi and some of his holy asso- 
ciates retired in 1213, and lived in 
the natural grottoes among the 
rocks. 

The church and vast convent of 
this sanctuary were commenced in 
1294; they owe their chief embel- 
lishments to the patronage of Pope 
Eugenius IV. 

Figline (in the direct route) is a 
walled town of 3,000 inhabitants. 

St Giovanni, a town of similar 
population, gave birth to Masaccio, 
the master of Perugino. 

Montevarchi is a similar town. 
Levane and Ponticino are then 
passed to 

Arezzo. — Hotel: ZaPosfe. Popu- 
lation, 9,000. This very ancient 
city is built partly on the plain 
and partly on the slopes of the 
hills. It was one of the strongest 
of the Etruscan cities. Scipio, in 
his march to Carthage, drew im- 
portant suppUes of arms and pro- 
visions from Arezzo. It was sub- 
jected to great calamities during 
the persecutions of the early Chris- 
tians, and at the irruption of the 
barbarians. At a later period this 
city enjoyed the protection of the 
Franks, and even had the rare pri- 
vilege of coining money, gold, silver, 
and copper. De Cosse, the general 
of Louis of Anjou, seized Arezzo, 
despoiled it of its wealth, and then 
sold it to the Florentines for 24,000 
ducats. At the commencement of 
the present century the inhabitants 
had the temerity to offer a lively 
resistance to the progress of the 
French arms under Moimier, for 
which the city was given up to pil- 
lage for several days. It is now a 
portion of the Grand Duchy of 
Tuscany. 

The streets are generally wide 
and well paved, and the houses of a 
superior order ; the places are few 
and far from spacious, but they are 
adorned with fountains and statues. 



The Loggie, by Vasari, is the 
best work of that gifted artist in 
his architectural capacity. The 
Fraternita is a noble Gothic build- 
ing ; its fa9ade is more modem 
(by Felix Fossato, 1552), in stone, 
with an ornamental clock. The 
cathedral is at the highest point of 
the city ; it was commenced in 
1218 by Jacob Tedesco, and con- 
tinued in 1275 by Margheritone. 
Its internal architecture is simple 
but very impressive, from the 
grandeur of its proportions, and its 
dim, religious light, for all the win- 
dows are of stained glass and very 
beautiful ; they have been compared 
to those of York Minster. The 
best paintings are by Pocetti, San- 
tini, Benvenuti, Catani, AdemoUi, 
and SabateUL The carved work of 
fohage, &c., at the grand altar is of 
as early a date as 1286, by Giovanni 
Pisano, nor are costly mosaics and 
enamels wanting. This church 
contains the tombs of Tarlati, a 
bishop, a soldier, an excommunicated 
prelate, and a leader of the Ghibe- 
lines, and of Pope Gregory X, who 
died at Arezzo. 

Arezzo has thirty churches, en- 
closing the works of Giotto, Vasari, 
and other great artists. In La 
Badia is a work of great curiosity 
and renown ; a false cupola is 
painted by Father Pozzo, and with 
most perfect iQusion and success. 

This city possesses a full share of 
public institutions, and can boa^t 
of houses visited by all the lovers of 
genius and its humanizing power. 
Here, in a house still existing, 
Petrarch was born ; nor does the 
list of illustrious natives end with 
that most illustrious name. Mae- 
cenas, the Aretins, Pope Jidius HI, 
Margaritone, the Guittones, Vasari, 
Vanni, and others. 

Higolino, Castiglione, and Fioren- 
tino are places of no importance. 

Cortona is a small city of about 
3,500 souls, built on a mountain, 
and one of the twelve Etruscan 



026 NORTHERN ITALY. — ^ROtlTK 117. FLORENCE TO ROME BT fTEEtJGIA^ 



cities. Its -walls are Cyclopean. 
It contains several objects of in- 
terest — the cathedral ; the Passerini 
palace ; the old Etruscan tomb, 
oddly enough called the Grotto of 
Pythagoras ; the church of St Mar- 
garet, where lie her mortal remains ; 
and a museum rich in inscriptions, 
vases, medals, and statues. 

Camascia is the last station in the 
Tuscan dominions ; from it a road 
leads to MontepUciano and to 

Chiusi, a small city near the 
lake of that name. Though it con- 
tains only 1,600 souls, it is highly 
interesting for its Etruscan cha- 
racter and its treasures of antiquity 
and art. In the vicinity are seen 
the result of the mighty hydrauhc 
operations of one of the first of 
mathematical engineers — the Count 
Fossombroni, the grand duke's 
prime minister ; their success is 
one of the greatest triumphs science 
has achieved in modern Italy. A 
dead and sterile soil, and a most 
pernicious atmosphere, replaced by 
salubrity and fruitfulness. 

After passing Oasaja, and climb- 
ing the mountain of the Spelxmca, 
there is seen a tranquil lake mirror- 
ing in its bosom its borders of 
blooming fruit trees ; this is the 
far-famed lake of Thrasimene (now 
called Perugia). Here was the 
great battle, during which, if we 
may believe Livy, " an earthquake 
reeled unheededly away" beneath 
the very feet of the hotly-contend- 
ing Romans and Carthaginians. 
At Thrasimene the site of the bat- 
tle cannot be mistaken ; Sir John 
Hobhouse says this was one of the 
greatest triumphs of perhaps the 
greatest general of antiquity, Han- 
nibal. 

There are three islands in this 
lake, the largest is called Isola 
Maggiore. 

Perugia. — Hotels: L^ Europe, and 
La Grande Brelayne. Population, 
18,000. Perugia is built on an 
eminence, the Tiber bathing its feet. 



It is enclosed by high mountains^ 
and for its noble basilicas and 
palaces, as well as for it?? works of 
art, is a very remarkable city. 
Perugia may be considered indeed 
to have originated a school of paint- 
ing (that of Umbria), its great 
master being Perugino. The society 
here is of the best, because of the 
most intellectual character. 

The Cathedral, dedicated to St 
Lawrence, is Gothic ; it contains 
paintings by Perugino, L. Signorelli, 
Scaramuccia, and others. In this 
cathedral are the tombs of Popes 
Innocent HI, Urban IV, and Mar- 
tin IV. 

The Church of St Maria dei TFossi 
is enriched with one of the besst 
productions of Perugino. 

In the Chapel of St Severus are 
frescoes, the youthful labours of 
Haphael. 

The churches of St Agostino, 
St Antonio, St Maria Nuova, St 
Eilippo,St Ercolano, the Dominicans, 
and others, contain paintings of 
value by Guido, A. Sacchi, and the 
greater artists. The best, however, 
were torn from the churches for 
the enrichment of the Louvre, and 
they now enrich the Vatican. The 
celebrated Coronation of the Virgin, 
designed by Raphael, and executed 
\tj Fattorino and Julio Romano, is . 
replaced in the church of St Maria 
di Monte Luce by a modern copy. 
In the Dominicans is a very in- 
teresting monument — that of the 
good, able, and most iU-fated Pope 
Benedict XI. 

The remains of antiquity, as wsll 
as the triumphs of art, adorn Pe- 
rugia. In the Place Grimani is a 
gate, the relics, it is said, of a tri- 
umphal arch inscribed to Augustus, 
but apparently of a prior date to 
his reign. In the church of St 
Angelo are abundant and beautiful 
fragments of the Pagan temple it 
has displaced. 

Perugia possesses an university, 
the third in the Papal States ; a 



ROMAN STATES.— ROUTE 117. CIVITA VECCHTA. 



627 



seminary, a very rich archaeological 
museum, libraries, &c. The library 
of the chapter contains, among 
many precious MSS., a gospel of the 
eighth century. 

The vicinity of Perugia is trans- 
cendently beautiful — beautiful in the 
sterner and softer characters of the 
Italian landscapes, for the mountains 
round about form a connecting link 
between the two chains of the Apen- 
nines, and are interspersed with val- 
leys, streams and gardens ; nor 
should the yellow Tiber be for- 
gotten, as giving classic interest as 
well as an additional charm to the 
landscape. 

The river is crossed at Ponte San 
Giovanni, and two leagues farther 
a very large and perfectly isolated 
building commands the traveller's 
attention — the great Sanctuary of 
La Madonna deg-li Angioli, a spot 
hallowed at one period of his life by 
the residence of St. Francis of Assisi. 
The church was greatly injured by 
the earthquake of 1832. 

Not far distant, on the declivity 
of a mountain, is the small city of 

Assisij with about 5,000 souls. It 
owes its celebrity to the tomb of St. 
Francis, to which an immense num- 
ber of pilgrims resort. The double 
temple — for it resembles one church 
built upon another — was a work of 
the thirteenth century, in honour of 
St. Francis ; it deserves minute ex- 
amination as a beautiful specimen of 
the revival of architecture after the 
dark ages, and it is also pure Gothic 
— a style not very frequently met 
with. This church is said to have 
supplied the model lor all the Fran- 
ciscan churches. 

Assisi presents many other ob- 
jects of interest ; it is the birth- 
place of Metastasio. 

The remainder of the route from 
Foligno is described from Ancona 
to Rome. 



CIVITA VECCHIA. 

Inns : Hotel lies Britannigue : a 
large new house, close to the landing 
place, is now excellently conducted 
by Signer Orlandi, who pays every 
attention to his guests. The Eu- 
rope has been converted from a dirty 
auberge, to a comfortable, clean 
hotel, also belonging to Mr. Orlandi. 

After the passport business is ar- 
ranged, travellers going to Rome, or 
merely to pass away a few hours, are 
permitted to land, and although a 
free ( / ) port, the luggage is taken to 
the custom house and strictly ex- 
amined. Boatage for landing, 1 
paul each ; porterage from boat to 
custom house, 1 paul for a porman- 
teau or carpet bag ; for trunks, 1^ 
paul; and the scrambling for the 
said luggage — landing at Calais or 
Jersey is child's play in comparison. 
After satisfying boatmen and porters 
fno easy matter), you are handed 
over to the tender mercies of the 
Dogana officials ; unpacking, pack- 
ing, and plumbing, If paul each 
package.* 

Diligences to Rome regularly 
three times a week, at twelve in 
the day, and a malle-poste every 
evening at eight, except I'uesdays 
and Saturdays; fare, 20 pauls by 
the former, and 24 pauls by the 
latter ; but on other days, and even 
on the same days, if the diligence 
has departed before the packet ar- 
rives, the Direction at the coach 



* This plumbing at Civita Vecchia 
prevents the luggage being examined on 
the road and at the gate of Rome, but 
it exposes one to much delay, annoy- 
ance, and a further expense in Rome, 
as plumbed luggage must go to the chief 
custom house to have the plumb offici- 
ally removed. Whereas, if not plumbed, 
a few pauls will in most cases ensure one 
a speedy delivery from these troublesome 
gentry. 



628 NORTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 118. CIVITA VECCHIA TO ROME. 



office (adjoining the lies Britannique) 
will, on having three places secured, 
forward an extra conveyance ; two 
persons had better do this, if not 
later than one o'clock, than remain 
at this most stupid place ; the fare 
by this extra diligence is the same 
as by the malle-poste, 24 pauls. 

Passports. — Supposing your pass- 
port to have received the vis6 of 
the Roman Consul at the last place 
you left, without which you will 
have either to return from whence 
you came or wait some days at 
Civita Vecchia, apply at the police 
office for yours, and take it to the 
British consul (fee, 5 pauls); after 
he signs it, take it again to the police 
office to be signed for Rome (fee 1 
paul). 

Vetturini are also plentiful, which 
will take travellers for the same, or 
sometimes less, than the public con- 
veyances. 

The only place worthy a visit is 

The Gallery of Etruscan Yases 
from the ruins of Corneto, kept by 
Sig. Donato Bucci, a learned and 
polite person. This gallery is an 
agreeable rendezvous for travellers ; 
some very splendid vases of incon- 
testible authenticity may be bought 
here at a reasonable price. 

Depot of Roman alum, extracted 
from a mine iathe neighbourhood. 

An excellent road, terminated in 
1840, following the ancient Via Au- 
relia, leads one to Leghorn in twenty- 
four hours. It is the shortest and 
most agreeable communication be- 
tween Rome and Florence. , 

Steam boats. — All the steamers 
from Naples and Marseilles touch at 
Civita Vecchia. 





1st 


2ncl 




cabin. 


cabin 


The fare for the whole fr. 


ft-. 


voyage is 


. 180 


120 


For Naples 


55 


35 


— Leghorn 


50 


30 


— Genoa 


85 


60 


— Marseilles . 


. 130 


75 



Children under ten years of age 



pay half price ; servants half the 
price of seconds ; luggage above 
sixty-five kil. for first class pas- 
sengers, and forty-five for second, is 
rigorously taxed. 

The French government steamers, 
with the Levant mail, also touch at 
Civita Vecchia. In 1844 as many 
as 18,000 passengers landed there. 
The port remains the same as in the 
time of Trajan. 

Although this harbour is the most 
important, as well as the safest, sea- 
port in the papal dominions, Civita 
Vecchia does not contain more than 
7,000 inhabitants. It was an insig- 
nificant village until Trajan dug its 
present noble harbour. This city 
did not escape in the irruption of the 
Northmen. Totilla took it. and 
dealt unsparingly with the inhabi- 
tants; and even Narses, when he 
overthrew the Gothic conqueror, 
showed little more humanity to the 
unhappy citizens. Its fortifications, 
which are very inefficient, were com 
pleted by Pope Urban VII. Bene- 
dict XIV. made it a free port ; since 
that privilege its trade and import- 
ance have materially increased. 

Civita Vecchia possesses several 
convents, a theatre, an arsenal, and 
dockyards. The prisons are the 
largest in the states of the church. 

ROUTE 118. 

CIVITA VECCHIA TO ROME. 

Distance 7 postes. 

Posfes. 

From Civita Vecchia to St. Severe 2 

— Palo ..... li 

— Castelguido ... . l| 

— Rome 

From Civita Vecchia to Rome it 
is seven postes, or about fifty-six 
English miles, occupying in the 
diligence or en vetturini about eight 
hours: posting in six hours. The 
accommodation on the road is of 
the most wretched description; yet 
such is the appetite created by a 
sea voyage and a keen air, that I 



ROMAN STATES. -ROUTE 118. CIVITA VECCHIA TO ROME. 629 



have seen wives and widows devour 
with gusto a haunch of kid, which, 
if it had not been for the name, one 
might easily have taken for the hind 
quarter of a fine half-starved cat ! 

The road presents some pleasing 
prospects, until 

Monterone is reached. 



Statua and L'Albergo di Melga- 
rotta are then passed, and the river 
Arrone, which flows from the lake of 
Braccione, crossed ; and in a little 
time an eminence is surmounted, 
and the huge dome of the most 
august of Christian temples is 
espied. 



K 2 



HAND-BOOK FOE ITALY, 



OR 



GUIDE-BOOK FOR TRAVELLERS. 



PART VIIL CENTRAL. 



Hotels: Hotel deLondres. This 
establishment consists of two large 
houses in the Piazza di Spagna. 
The proprietors, Messrs. Serny, 
have rendered their houses exceed- 
ingly desirable for first-rate fami- 
lies : excellent cooking in the Eng- 
lish and French style ; there is no 
table d'hote, but dinners are served 
in the apartments at all prices. 
Families residing in the hotel will 
be furnished with every accommo- 
dation for balls and entertainments. 
The wines are excellent. Arrange- 
ments can be made for board and 
lodging. — Hotel de PEurope. This 
is also a first-rate establishment in 
the Piazza di Spagna. The pro- 
prietor, Mr. Melga, has published 
his prices, which will enable per- 
sons before ordering to know what 
expense they are likely to incur. 
The charge for apartments depends 
upon the number of rooms, and the 
number of stairs to reach them. 
Breakfast, with eggs, 5 pauls ; a la 
fourehette, 6 pauls ; tea, 3 pauls ; 
dinner, served in the apartments at 
10 pauls, 15 pauls, and 2 and 3 scu- 
di ; a table d'hote every day ; ser- 
vants belonging to families are 
boarded at 7 pauls the day. Mrs. 
Melga is an Englishwoman. — Hotel 
de Mussie, near the Piazza del Po- 
polo, a large first-rate establishment, 



with every convenience and com- 
fort ; a table d'hote every day. — 
Hotel Jtllemagne, Via Condotti, 
near the Piazza di Spagna, very 
good, well-situated house. Apart- 
ments from 4 pauls upwards. Plain 
breakfast, 3 pauls ; eggs or meat 
extra ; a very good table d'hote at 
six in the summer and five in the 
winter, including wine, 6 pauls. — 
Hotel d''j4ngleterre, centrally situ- 
ated in the Piazza Tortonia, is a 
very good, clean, and comfortable 
house, with an excellent table d'hote 
daily at half-past five, 6 pauls ; 
breakfast, 3 pauls. — Hotel Meloni, 
in the Piazza del Popolo, a first- 
rate, well-situated hotel, and adapted 
for families of distinction. There 
are also the Hotel de Paris, Hotel 
de la Minerva, i^partments, as 
may readily be supposed, are nume- 
rous, and at all prices. Single men, 
who are not particular as to locality, 
may get one room for 60 pauls a 
month ; in the Piazza di Spagna a 
suite of apartments will cost from 
15 to 40 louis a month : in the Pi- 
azza del Popolo from 18 to 20 ; in 
the Corsa, from 18 to 30 ; and in 
other less frequented situations, from 
10 to 20. A valet de place may be 
hired at 10 pauls a day; engaging 
one for any time 7 or 8 pauls a 
day. 



ROMAN STATES. — ROME. FIRST DAY. 



631 



PRICES OF PROVISIONS. 

Bread 2 to 2^ bajocchi, per lb. of 12 oz. 

Beef, 8 to 9 baj. per lb. 

Mutton, ditto. 

Veal, 15 baj . per lb. 

Vegetables, abundant and cheap. 

Game : Wild Boar, 6 to 7 baj. Wood- 
cocks, 15 baj. to 2 pauls. Hares, 3 to 4 
patds. Wild Ducks, 2 to 3 pauls. Veni- 
son, 6 to 7 baj. per lb. 

Butter, 3 pauls per lb. 

Eggs, fresh, 2 to | baj. each; notfresh, 
1 paul a dozen. 

Tea, 8 to 12 pauls per lb. 

Coffee, 12 to 15 baj. per. lb. 

Sugar, lump, 8 to 10 baj. per lb. Moist, 
7 to 9 baj. ditto. 

Wax Candles, 3| to 4 pauls per lb. 

Firing : a load of wood, cost, cutting, 
carrying to the apartment, 4 dollars, all 
included. 

Wine : Ordinary Wine of the country, 
Vellotri, 3 to 4 baj. the foglietta; two 
fogliette form a bottle. Gensano, Ma- 
rino, Albano, Civita, Lavinia, Monte 
Rotondo, 3 to 5 baj. 

Money : Scudi and bajocchi — the de- 
cimal system. 100 baj. equal 1 dollar or 
scudo; 10 baj. 1 paul; the Spanish dollar 
same value as the Roman scudo ; the na- 
poleon, 3 scudi and 71 baj. ; louis d'or, 
4 scudi 35 baj. ; Venetian sequin, 2 scudi 
20 baj. 

Bookseller, Reading JRoom, and 
Circulating Library. — V. Monal- 
diui, Piazza di Spagna, No. 79, 
having regular communications every 
fortnight, can procure the most re- 
cent publications from Paris and 
London, and receives subscriptions 
to the Galignani's Messenger, or any- 
other papers. A large collection of 
English, French, and Italian Works, 
Almanacks, Army and Navy Lists, 
&e. &e., for sale. 

Terms of subscription to be paid 
in advance. 



To Reading Room 


To Reading Room 


^and Library. 


only. 


sc. pa. 


sc. pa. 


3 weeks ..25 


1 week ..09 


1 month ..30 


2 ditto ... 1 5 


2 ditto ... 5 2 


3 ditto ... 1 7 


3 ditto ... 7 4 


1 month ,.20 


4 ditto ..90 


2 ditto ..33 


5 ditto . . 11 


3 ditto ..45 


6 ditto ... 13 


4 ditto ..58 




5 ditto ..70 




6 ditto ..86 



The follovping regulations are to 
be observed in the reading room ; 
The rooms are open to subscribers 



the mom- 
evening : on 



every day from nine in 
ing till nine in the 
holidays, from twelve to two in the 
morning, and from five till nine in 
the evening; on Christmas-day and 
Easter Sunday the room is closed by 
order of government. Subscribers 
are requested to insert their places 
of residence after their names in the 
book. No newspaper or pamphlet 
to be taken out of the reading room 
without the permission of the pro- 
prietor. 

An English newspaper is now 
published weekly in Rome. 

Restaurateurs. — Lepri, Via 
Condotti ; Bentini Corso. 

Cafes. — Ruspoli, in the Corso; 
' Nazarri, Piazza di Spagna ; Di Ve- 
nezia, Piazza Sciarra. 

Physicians. — Dr. Kissock, Via 
della Croce, 78; Dr. Deakin, Piazza 
di Spagna, 78 ; Dr. Lloyd ; Dr. Al- 
lerz, a German physician at the 
Prussian legation. 

Apothecary. — Borioni, Via Ba- 
buino, 98. 

Bankers. — Torlonia and Co., 
Piazza di Vinezia; Freeborn and 
Co., Via Condotti, 7 ; Plowden, 
Cholmley, and Co., Piazza Sciarra ; 
Macbean and Co., Via Condotti, 
No, 21 ; Macquay Packenham, and 
Co., Piazza di Spagna, No. 20. 

Agents for the packing and ship- 
ment of works of Art. — Mr. W. 
Jackson, Via Babuino, 38, corres- 
pondent of Mr. Chinnery, Lower 
Thames street, London ; Mr. Paulo 
Trebby, Via Condotti, correspondent 
to the Messrs. M'Cracken, Old 
Jewry, London. 

Promenades. — The Pincian hill, 
the villa Borghese, and the villa 
Pampili Doria. 

The English church is open from 
the middle of October till the end 
of May, under the direction of the 
Rev. James Hutchinson. No. 85, 
Piazza di Spagna. The morning 
service begins at eleven, the after- 
noon at three, according to the ritual 
of the Church of England. 



632 



CENTRAL ITALY ROME. INTRODUCTION, 



Rome is celebrated for works of 
statuary, or in all qualities of mar- 
ble, mosaics, ancient and modern 
paintings, and Roman pearls ; there 
is also a considerable export of 
wool, lamb and kid skins, the pro- 
duce of the Campagna. These ar- 
ticles are shipped by the Tiber at 
the custom house of Ripa Grande in 
Rome, where the river is navigable 
for vessels of about eighty tons 
burden. 

Cigars. — The tobacco trade is fa- 
voured by the government to Messrs. 
Tarlonia and Co. The importation 
of tobacco manufactured out of the 
States is prohibited. 

Principal depot is in the corso, 
near the Yia della Conventite. 

Haclcney CoacheSr — The principal 
stands are in the Piazza di Spagna, 
the Piazza di Vinezia, and oppo- 
site the post office ; the price of the 
first hour is 4 pauls ; of the succes- 
sive hours, 3 pauls ; but on festival 
days it is necessary to make a pri- 
vate Jlgreement. Carriages and 
saddle horses, from Barfoot's, No, 
151, ViaBabuino ; Brown's, 78, Due 
Macelli : the price is one dollar per 
day. 

Passports. — The fees to the con- 
suls : — English, 5 pauls ; Neapolitan, 
5 pauls ; Tuscan, gratis ; Sardinian^ 
8 pauls ; French, 5 pauls ; Swiss, 5 
pauls; police, 6 pauls. Persons 
staying any time must send to the 
police office for a permit of resi- 
dence ; this costs 6 pauls. 

Prices of clothes vary according 
to the quality of the cloth. High 
duty, clothes dear ; coat, 3/. 10*.to4Z. 

Italian Masters, of course, are 
numerous ; price, 6 pauls a lesson. 

Post Office, — Letters for Great 
Britain or the United States must be 
franked to the frontier. To any part 
of the Continent on a single letter, 
the charge is half a paul ; to Eng- 
land or the United States, If paul. 

Theatres — Apollo, near the Ponte 
St. Angelo, open in the carnival 
season only, for grand operas ; the 



pit from 3 to 5 pauls ; boxes, as 
per agreement : Argertina ; both 
belonging to Torlonia. — Valle, Me- 
tastasio, and Aliberti, for comedy 
and tragedy; price of admittance 
to the pit, 1^ paul. — The Teatro 
Diurno, at the Mausoleum of Au- 
gustus, is open in the summer sea- 
son for comedy and tragedy, and for 
equestrian exercises ; admission to 
the pit, H bajocchi, — Theatre at the 
Fiaro palace. Piazza di St. Lorenzo, 
in Lucina. — ^The Marsonelles, or 
Burratini, abounding in satire : price 
in the pit, half a paul ; in a box, 
1 paul. 

Diligences from Rome to Naples 
by the upper and lower road five times 
a week, in thirty-six hours ; fare by 
Terracina, II scudi, f35 bajocehi ; 
by Ceprano, 10 scudi, 75 bijocchi. 

Civita Vecchia every day, in 
eight hours, fare, 2 scudo; by the 
malle-poste, 2 scudo, 40 bajocehis. 

Vetturini may be had in great 
plenty, to proceed in every direc- 
tion. The avei'age cost for one 
person for a seat, board, and lodg- 
ing, should not exceed two Roman 
ecus or dollars per diem. See In- 
troduction. 



The following arrangement of di- 
viding Rome into eight days is in 
accordance with the plan introduced 
with so much success by M. Visi, 
with such alterations as circjum- 
stances render necessary, J^jf> M. 
Nibby and myself. It is true that 
persons who make a stay of some 
months will necessarily devote a 
much greater portion of time to the 
inspection of the antiquities, yet for 
a flying visitor the plan is the best 
that can be adopted. By a similar 
arrangement of Paris, that capital 
and its environs may be seen in ten 
days. 

According to the opinion most ge- 
nerally admitted, Rome was founded 
by Romulus, a descendant of .-Eneas 
and of the Alban kings, in the year 
753 before the Christian era. The 



EOMAN STATES. — ROIVIE. INTRODUCTION. 



633 



city was originally limited to the 
Palatine hill; the Capitoline was ■ 
added after the rape of the Sabine ! 
women, and then the valley, sepa- ! 
rating those two hills, became the ' 
forum. 

Numa, tlie successor of Eomulus, ! 
enclosed a part of the Quirinal ' 
within the city. After the destruc- | 
tion of Alba by Tullius Hostiliusj j 
of Tellene, Ficana, and Politorium ' 
by Ancus Martins, the Cselian and ■ 
Aventine hills formed part of the , 
city, and were peopled by the in- 
habitants of those towns. A wooden 
bridge, called the Sublician, cele- 
brated for the valour of Codes, 
was thrown over the river, and a 
citadel was built on the Janiculum 
by Ancus Martins. Servius Tul- 
lius enlarged the city by enclosing 
the remainder of the Quirinal as 
well as the Viminal and the Esqui- 
line: he surrounded it with walls 
composed of square blocks of vol- 
canic tufa, fortified it with an agger, 
or rampart, extending from the 
Quirinal to thearchof Gallienus on 
the Esquiline ; the seven hills and 
a small part of the Janiculum were 
thus enclosed within a circuit of 
about eight miles. 

Though the city had greatly in- 
creased in the period that elapsed 
from Servius to Aurelian, the cir- 
cuit of the walls remained the same ; 
but this emperor, with the view of 
repelling foreign invasions, raised 
a new line of walls, which was 
completed under Probus in 276. 
Vopiscus, a contemporary writer, 
asserts that these walls were fifty 
miles in circuit, an extent which 
would appear exaggerated if we did 
not take into consideration the 
size of the city, and the dense popu- 
lation which naturally occupied 
the capital of the world ; and in 
fact, the ruins of the public build- 
ings alone cover so large a space of 
ground, that within the present 
enclosure it would be impossible 
to find room for private houses to 



receive the large population of the 
ancient city. Of the walls of Aure- 
lian no traces remain ; those of the 
present day, embracing sixteen and 
a half miles in circumference, are 
of a period posterior to that em- 
peror ; their most ancient part does 
not go beyond the time of Honorius 
in 402. 

On the right bank of the Tiber 
the walls are altogether modern, 
the Vatican not having been en- 
closed until 852, by Leo IV, to 
defend the church of St Peter 
against the Saracens. The space 
occupied by the modem city is 
about one-third of that enclosed 
within the walls ; the other two- 
thirds consist of kitchen gardens, 
vineyards, and villas. 

Of the twelve gates of the modern 
city eight are on the left bank of 
the river, viz. : the Flaminian or del 
Popolo, Salaria, Pia, St Lorenzo, 
Maggiore, St Giovanni, St Sebas- 
tiano, and St Paolo. On the right 
bank are the Portese and St Pan- 
crazio, Cavalleggieri and Angelica. 
Eight of the more ancient gates are 
closed, viz. : the Pinciana, Viminalis, 
Metronis, Latina, Ardeatina, Eab- 
brica, Pertusa, and Castello. 

The Tiber passes through Rome 
in a direction from north to south. 
There are four bridges, the JElian 
or St Angelo, Janiculense or Sisto, 
Fabrician or Quattro Ca.pi, and 
that of Gratian or St Bartolomeo. 
Three are in ruins: the Vatican, 
Palatine, and Sublician. 

Servius Tullius divided Rome 
into four quarters or regions: the 
Palatina, Suburrana, Esquilina, and 
Collina. Augustus into fourteen, 
viz.: l,Capena;2, Coelimontana; 3, 
Isis and Serapis ; 4, Via Sacra ; 5, 
Esquilina ; 6, Alta Semita ; 7, Via 
Lata ; 8, Forum Romanum ; 9, Cir- 
cus Flaminius ; 10, Palatium ; 1 1, Cir- 
cus Maximus; 12, Piscina publica; 
13, Aventina; and 14, Transtiberina. 

The present city also is divided 
into fourteen Rioni, viz : Mont 



634 



CENTRAL ITALY. — ROME. FIRST DAY. 



Trevi, Colonno, Campo Marza, Pon- 
te, Parione, Eegola, St Eustachio, 
Pigna, Campitelli, St Aneglo, Ripa, 
Trastevere, and Borgo. 

The population of the city and 
its suburbs amounted, according to 
the census of L 838, to 148,903 souls, 
and it is now, in 1844, 171,000. 

Though plundered and burnt at 
different periods, Rome has always 
risen like the phoenix out of her 
ruins. The obelisks, columns, sta- 
tues, and other master-pieces of art, 
the remains of ancient temples, 
triumphal arches, theatres, amphi- 
theatres, thermae, tombs, and aque- 
ducts are the unrivalled ornaments 
of this metropolis. 

Many of the modem edifices are 
not inferior in magnificence to 
those of antiquity; at every step 
are sumptuous churches, extensive 
palaces, containing valuable collec- 
tions of painting and sculpture, 
fountains, villas filled with ancient 
and modern works of art. In two 
I^ublic museums are united master- 
pieces of Egyptian, Etruscan, Greek, 
and Roman sculpture. Bramante, 
Raphael, Michael Angelo, and other 
eminent artists have embellished 
the city with their works. 

Monuments of all ages collected 
here have rendered Rome the seat 
of the fine arts. In the number of 
her literary establishments are the 
University or Sapienza, founded in 
the thirteenth century, the Roman 
college and seminary; the Naza- 
reno, Doria, Clementine, Propa- 
ganda, English, Irish, and Scotch 
colleges. Among the academies 
are those of St Luca for the fine 
arts ; of the Catholic religion for 
theological subjects ; the Linceian 
for the mathematical and physical 
sciences ; the Archeological for an- 
tiquities ; the Tiberina and Arca- 
dian for the Italian language and 
literature. 

Camei, mosaics, sculptures, paint- 
ings, engravings, silks, cloths, ar- 
tificial pearls, strings for musical 



instruments, beads, &c.. constitute 
the principal objects of trade. 

Charitable establishments abound 
in Rome, independently of those 
supported by foreigners for the use 
of their countrymen. The sick are 
received, according to the nature 
of their complaints, in the hospitals 
of St Spirito, St Giacomo, the 
Consolazione, St Giovanni La- 
terano, St Galicano, and St Roch. 
Of the numerous asylums for the 
poor the principal are St Michele, 
the Pio Institute di Carita, the Con- 
servatorio of the Mendicanti for fe- 
males, and the house of the orphan 
boys. 

At Rome the Catholic religion 
displays all her splendour. In no 
city can the ceremonies of the Holy 
Week, of Easter, of the Corj^us 
Domini, of St Peter and of Christ- 
mas, vie with those of the Vatican. 

FIRST BAY. 

PROM PORTA DEL POPOLO TO THE 
CAPITOL. 

Porta delPopolo. — When Honorius 
rebuilt the city walls in 402, a gate 
was opened on the Elaminian way; 
under Narses, in the second period of 
the sixth century, it was placed in 
the present spot. This gate, which 
derives its name from the church 
of St Maria del Popolo, was rebuilt 
by Vignola in 1561, according to 
the design of Michael Angelo. 
The external part is decorated with 
four columns of the Doric order of 
breccia and granite ; the internal 
ornaments were designed byBernini. 

Piazza del Popolo. — This piazza, 
formed by two large hemicycles, is 
adorned with fountains, statues, 
an Egyptian obelisk, and churches 
of nearly the same style of archi- 
tecture, from which branch off 
three of the principal streets of 
Rome : that in the middle, called 
the Corso, is a mile in length. 

The statues of the piazza repre- 
sent Rome, between the Anio and 



EOMAN STATES. — ROME. FIEST DAT. 



635 



the Tiber ; Neptune and the Tri- 
tons; Spring, Summer, Autumn, 
and Winter. The semicircle to 
the left of the gate is surmounted 
by the public promenade of the 
Pincian hill. 

Adjoining the gate is the church 
called St Maria del Popolo, founded, 
according to popular tradition, by 
Pope Paschal II, in the year 1099, 
to deliver the people from the noc- 
turnal phantoms attributed by the 
vulgar to Nero, who was buried on 
the Pincian hill in the tomb of his 
family. 

This church was rebuilt under 
Sixtus IV; Agostino Chigi and 
others, at the close of the fifteenth 
and beginning of the sixteenth cen- 
tury, vied with each other in de- 
corating it with monuments, which 
render it one of the most interest- 
ing of the city. 

In the first chapel to the right 
on entering are paintings by Pin- 
turicchio. The second, containing 
the tomb of Cardinal Cibo, was 
built in the form of a Greek cross, 
but this was changed into a Latin 
cross by the addition of the vesti- 
bule. It is adorned by sixteen 
columns of the Corinthian order, 
with slabs of verde and nero antico, 
violet marble and alabaster. The 
painting on the left represents the 
Martyrdom of St Lawrence, by 
Morandi, and that on the right St 
Catherine, by Daniel. The paint- 
ing over the altar is by Carlo Ma- 
ratta. The third chapel, dedicated 
by Sixtus IV to the Virgin and aU 
the saints, was painted by Pintu- 
ricchio. 

The tombs by Sansovino are the 
best sample of sculpture existing at 
Kome after the revival of the art. 
In the chapel on the right of the 
altar is a painting of Annibal Ca- 
racci, representing the Assump- 
tion. 

The chapel, dedicated to the 
Madonna di Loreto, and belonging 
to the Chigi family, was built and 



decorated according to the design 
of Raphael, who also furnished the 
designs of the mosaics of the cupola, 
of the paintings of the frieze, and of 
the altar piece, which represents 
the Nativity of the Virgin, com- 
menced by Sebastian del Piombo 
and finished by Francis Sal via ti; of 
its four statues, the two which re- 
present Daniel in the Lion's Den, 
and Habakkukwith the Angel, are 
by Bernini ; and the other two re- 
presenting the prophets Elias and 
Jonas seated on the Whale, are by 
Lorenzetto; these last are highly 
esteemed, particularly the Jonas, 
which was executed according to 
the model given by Raphael, and 
under his direction. 

The Church of Monte Santo was 
begun in 1662, by order of Alexan- 
der Vn, and finished by Cardinal 
Gastaldi, who entrusted the execu- 
tion of Rainaldi's design to Bernini 
and Carlo Pontana. It contains 
the busts of several popes, a paint- 
ing by Carlo Maratta, representing 
St Francis with the Apostle St 
James in presence of the Virgin ; 
and the History of St Magdalen de' 
Pazzi, painted by Gemignani. 

St Maria de' Miracoli — The four 
Angels supporting the Image of the 
Virgin, over the high altar, are by 
Raggi; the statues of Faith and 
Charity by Lucenti, who also exe- 
cuted the bronze bust of Cardinal 
Gastaldi which surmounts his 
tomb. 

In entering the corso the first 
church on the left is that of 

Gesu' e Maria, ornamented with 
various kinds of fine marble, and 
gilt with stuccoes. It contains se- 
veral tombs of the Bolognetti fa- 
mily. The sacristy is adorned with 
some fresco paintings by Lanfratic. 
Nearly opposite is the church of 

St Giacomo degV Incur ahili. — This 
was built in 1338, by Cardinal Pie- 
tro Colonna, and rebuilt in 1600, 
according to the designs of Francis 
da Volterra, In the second chapel 



636 



CENTEAL ITALY. — ROME. FIRST DAY. 



on the right is a bas-relief by 
Legros, representing St Francis 
praying for the Intercession of the 
Virgin, and two paintings whose 
subjects are connected with the life 
of this saint. 

St Carlo. — This church, one of 
the most magnificent of the city, 
is divided into three naves by pi- 
lasters of the Corinthian order. It 
was begun in 1612 : the cupola, the 
tribune, and the high altar, are by 
Pietro da Cortona. The painting 
over the altar, representing St 
Charles presented to the Madonna 
by our Saviour, is one of the best 
works of Carlo Maratta; the paint- 
ings of the cupola and tribune are 
by Giacinto Brandi. 

In following the corso the first 
large palace on the right is 

The Palazzo Ruspoli, the prin- 
cipal ornament of which is the 
grand staircase, formed of 1 15 steps, 
each of a single block of white mar- 
ble. The gallery, 80 feet in length, 
26 in height, and 11^ in breadth, 
contains some fresco paintings by 
Giacomo Zucchi, a pupil of Vasari. 
The ground-floor is now used as a 
coffee house. 

St Lorenzo in Lucina. — Sixtus HI, 
it is believed, built this church in 
the year 435 It certainly existed 
at the end of the sixth century at 
the time of St Gregory the Great: 
it was restored by Adrian I in 780, 
and rebuilt by Celestin III in 1196. 

Over the high altar is Guido 
Reni's celebrated picture repre- 
senting the Crucifixion : the cha- 
pel dedicated to St Francis was 
painted by Mark Benefial ; and a 
monument to Poussin, who was bu- 
ried in this church, has lately been 
executed and erected here by Le- 
moyne. 

St Sylvester in Capite. - Tradition 
refers the origin of this church to 
the year 261. Amongst the nume- 
rous relics preserved in it, the most 
remarkable is the head of St John 
the Baptist. The frescoes of the 



Assumption, of St John, St Silves- 
ter, and of other saints are by 
Brandi. In the first chapel on the 
left the paintings are by Trevisani, 
and are some of the best works of 
that artist. 

The Palazzo Chigi. — This palace 
was commenced by Giacomo deUa 
Porta, was continued by Maderno, 
and finished by della Greca. It was 
destined by Alexander VII as a resi- 
dence for the Chigi family, to which, 
he belonged. 

It contains three celebrated an- 
tique statues : the first representing 
a Venus, on which is an ancient 
Greek inscription, purporting that 
it is the work of Menophantes, 
executed on the model of the statue 
seen at Troy ; it is of Parian mar- 
ble, and was found on the Cashan 
hill. The second represents Mer- 
cury, and is one of the Hermes called 
attic by Pausanias : the drapery is 
beautiful, and this work may be 
considered, in every respect, as be- 
longing to the most flourishing 
period of sculpture. The third, 
also of Parian marble, represents 
ApoUo with the laurel and serpent. 
This statue is of fine design and 
execution, and is probably of the 
time of Adrian. 

The gallery contains some paint- 
ings by several of the great masters, 
amongst which we shall particular- 
ly notice the following : — 

St Anthony, St Pascal, St Cecily, 
and an Ascension, by Benvenuto 
Garofalo. » 

St Francis and Magdalen, by 
Guercino. 

St Barthelemy and St John, by 
Dosso Dossi. 

A Battle-piece, by Salvator Eosa. 

An Infant Jesus with Angels, by 
Albano. 

A portrait of Laura, by Paul Ve- 
ronese. 

A Magdalen, by Spagnoletto. 

The carrying the Ark, by Palma 
Giovane. 

Madonna and Child, by Albano. 



ROMAN STATES. — EOSIE. FIRST DAT. 



637 



Our Saviour and St Thomas, by 
Ant. Caracci. 

Portrait of Pietro Aretino, by 
Titian. 

Satyr disputing with a Philoso- 
pher, by Salvator Eosa. 

Holy Family, by Poussin. 

Conversion of St Paul, by Domi- 
nichino. 

Two Portraits, by Tintoretto. 

Marriage of St Catherine, by 
Sodoma. 

The Piazza Cohnna occupies a 
part of the forum of Antoninus 
Pius, and derives its name from the 
column raised by the senate to 
Marcus Aurelius in commemoration 
of his victories in Germany over 
the Marcomanni. The bas-reliefs 
represent these exploits. The figure 
of Jupiter Pluvius, to whom the 
Pagans attributed the extraordinary 
rain obtained from the true God by 
the prayers of the thundering legion, 
is worthy of particular attention. 

The column is formed of 28 
blocks of white marble ; its diameter 
is of 11^ feet, height 128 § feet, 
including statue 24^ feet : a winding 
staircase of 190 steps leads to the 
top, where, in 1589, Domenico 
Fontana, by order of Sixtus V, 
placed the bronze statue of the 
apostle St Paul. 

In front of the column is the 
General Post office, and in the 
adjoining Piazza of Mont Citorio, 
which occupies the site of the 
ancient theatre of Statilius Taurus, 
is another Egyptian obelisk. 

The Temple of Antoninus clearly 
indicates that it was once a temple, 
and its proximity to the forum of 
Antoninus, and the inscription 
discovered in the sixteenth century, 
are sufficient arguments to prove 
that it was dedicated to Antoninus 
Pius by the Roman senate and 
people in the forum bearing his 
name. 

Its remains consist in eleven 
columns, supporting a magnificent 
marble entablature. These columns 



formed the lateral part of the 
portico which surrounded the 
temple ; they are fluted, and of the 
Corinthian order, four feet two 
inches in diameter, 39^ feet in 
height; the base is attic, and the 
capital ornamented with olive 
leaves. In the court are fragments 
of part of the cells. 

In the seventeenth century these 
ruins first served as a front to the 
custom house. 

The Church of St Ignatius. — 
Cardinal Ludovisi, a nephew of 
Gregory XV, built the church at 
his own expense: it was begun in 
1626, and finished in 1685. Domi- 
nichino made two different designs, 
from which Padre Grassi formed 
the one that was followed. The 
front by Algarde is in travertine, 
and has two orders of columns, Co- 
rinthian and composite. The inte- 
rior, divided into three naves, is 
ornamented by the fresco paintings 
of Padre Pozzi, a Jesuit, who de- 
signed the finest chapels of this 
church. A bas-relief by Legros 
represents St Luigi Gonzaga, whose 
body reposes under the altar in an 
urn covered with lapis lazuli : near 
the side entrance is the tomb of 
Gregory XV. 

The Collegio Romano was raised 
in 1582 by Gregory XTTT on the 
designs of Bartolomeo Ammanati. 
It contains a spacious court, sur- 
rounded with a portico. The Latin, 
Greek, and Hebrew languages, the 
different branches of belles-lettres, 
philosophy, and theology, are taught 
here under the direction of the 
society of Jesus. In the building 
annexed are an observatory, a li- 
brary, and the museum founded by 
padre Kircher, containing numerous 
objects of antiquity and of natural 
history, with a complete collection 
of the Roman As and its subdivi- 
sions, bequeathed by Cardinal Zela- 
da to this museum. 

In the Sciarra Palace is a large 
collection of paintings, the principal 



639 



CENTRAL ITALY. — ROME. FIRST DAT. 



of which we shall proceed to point 

In the first room: Sacrifice of 
Abraham, by Gherardo delle Notti ; 
Cleopatra, by Lanfranc ; Decollation 
of St John the Baptist, by Valentin ; 
Deposition, by Bassano; the Sama- 
ritan woman, by Garofalo; Madon- 
na, by Titian. 

The second room contains a col- 
lection of landscapes : a Salvator 
Eosa, two Claudes, representing 
Sunrise and Sunset ; Both, a Water- 
fall ; a View of Vesuvius, of the 
Venetian school ; two paintings by 
Paul Brill; several by Orizzonte 
and Locatelli ; a Nicholas Poussin, 
representing St Matthew ; a Breug- 
hel, St John baptizing our Saviour ; 
a view of Naples by Canaletti, and 
other landscapes by Orizzonte and 
the school of Claude. 

In the third room is a Calvary of 
the school of Michael Angelo, Mar- 
riage of Cana by Pomarancio, a 
Madonna by Prancesco Prancia. 
A Benvenuto Garofalo, representing 
Circe transforming men into beasts. 

The other chief paintings of this 
room are a Madonna and Child, and 
several Saints, by Andrea del Sarto; 
a Holy Pamily, by Scarcelhno; a 
Noli me tangere, and vestal Clau- 
dia, and the Adoration of the Kings, 
by Garofalo; two Plemish pieces; 
three small pictures by Titian. 

Passing into the fourth and last 
room, and commencing from the 
left, are two fine pictures by Schi- 
done, the first representing the Pa- 
rable of the Wheat and the Chaff, 
and the second, Arcadia. Dido 
abandoned, by Scarsellino ; two 
Evangelists, by Guercino : the next 
picture is the Violin- player, supposed 
to be the celebrated Tebaldeo, a 
work of Raphael in 1518, according 
to the original inscription ; Hero- 
dias receiving the head of St John, 
by Giorgione; the Samaritan wo- 
man, by Albano; the well-known 
picture of the Gamblers, by Cara- 
vaggio ; and that celebrated painting 



of Vanity and Modesty, by Leonardo 
da Vinci The other distinguished 
works in this room are Orpheus in 
the palace of Pluto, and a Pair, by 
Breughel: two Magdalens, by Gui- 
do; the family of Titian, painted 
by himself; a St Jerome, by Guer- 
cino ; and the portrait known by the 
name of Bella di Tiziano, painted 
by that artist. 

Several discoveries made under 
Pius IV, and in 1614, have proved 
that in the vicinity of this palace, 
near the modern Arco de' Carbog- 
nani, was the triumphal arch raised 
by the Roman senate and people to 
the Emperor Claudius after the con- 
quest of Britain. 

St Marcello was built in the 
fourth century, on the site of a house 
occupied by St Lucina, a Roman 
matron, in which S. Marcellus I 
died ; it was rebuilt in 1519, on the 
designs of Giacomo Sansovino. The 
most remarkable paintings of this 
church are those of the chapel of 
the Crucifix, where Pierin delVaga 
has represented the Creation of Eve. 

St Maria in Via Lata, according 
to ancient tradition, was built on 
the spot occupied by the house of 
the centurion with whom St Paul 
resided when sent to Rome by Fes- 
tus. It is added that the fountain 
which still exists sprang up that 
the apostle might be enabled to 
baptize those whom he converted 
to Christianity. An oratory was 
built here soon after, but the soil 
of Rome having risen to its present 
level, this oratory is now under 
ground; it is, however, easy of access 
by means of a convenient staircase. 
On the altar are the portraits of St 
Peter and St Paul by Fancelli. 

The church was built in the 
eighth century, renewed in 1485, 
and again in 1662. The columns 
of the nave are of Cipolline marble, 
coated with Sicilian jasper. 

Palazzo Doria. — The Doria fa- 
mily are justly ranked among the 
most ancient and the most iUus- 



ROMAN STATES. — ROME. PIRST DAT. 



638 



trious nobility of Italy. This pa- 
lace contains a splendid collection of 
paintings ; the principal are: 

In the first room, called the Saloon 
of Poussin, are numerousLandscapes 
by that celebrated artist; two Sea 
Views, by Monpair; a Turkish Wo- 
man on Horseback, by Castiglione; 
and some paintings, by Rosa di 
Tiroli, in his best style. 

In the second room are a St Cathe- 
rine, by Scipione Gaetano ; St Do- 
rothy ,by Lanfranc ; two Landscapes, 
by Both ; a Castiglione, and St 
Eustachius, by Albert Durer ; three 
Bassani, representing Christ driving 
the Money-changers out of the 
Temple, the Flight of Jacob, and 
the Temptation of Christ; three 
other paintings, by the same artist, 
representing the Sacrifice of Noah 
after the Deluge ; the Apparition of 
Jesus to the disciples of Emaus, 
and an Ecce homo ; a Giorgione, a 
St Sebastian, by Agostino Caracci ; 
a Tempesta, and a Landscape by 
Poussin. 

The third room contains a Holy 
Family, by Garofalo; theEndymion 
of Guerciuo ; the Mistress of Titian, 
by that artist; a Deposition from 
the Cross, by Paul Veronese ; a 
portrait of Macchiavelli, by Bron- 
zino; a Vandyke and a Guercino; 
the Death of Abel, by Salvator 
Rosa; two Portraits, by Titian, one 
representing Jansenius. 

The other most remarkable pic- 
tures of this room are a Pierin del 
Vaga, a landscape representing 
the Apparition of Emaus, by Both; 
a Holy Family, by Pietro Perugino ; 
a Diana and Endymion, by Rubens ; 
Portraits by Titian and Vandyke. 

Some very fine portraits decorate 
the fourth room : after the Portrait 
of a Female, by Rubens, comes a 
large picture representing the cele- 
brated Admiral Andre Doria, by 
Dosso Dossi; and a splendid Por- 
trait of the same personage, by 
Sebastian del Piombo; twoHolbeins, 



one representing himself and the 
other his wife. 

In the fifth room are an Icarus 
and Dedalus, by Albano ; a Holy 
Family of Ludovico Caracci; a 
Roman Charity, by Valentin ; a 
Garofalo, and two St Jeromes, one 
by Palma and the other by Spag- 
noletto. 

The gallery, which may be con- 
sidered as the most magnificent of 
Rome, contains some of the most 
splendid paintings of this collection. 

The first little picture on the left, 
representing the Dispute of Christ 
with the Doctors of the Law, is a 
work of Dossi of Ferrara ; the Battle 
pieces are by Borgognone ; the 
Visitation of the Virgin, by Garo- 
falo. We may next observe three 
beautiful Landscapes, by Domini- 
chino ; the portrait of a Franciscan 
Friar, said to be his confessor, by 
Rubens ; a Magdalen, by Titian; 
and six semicircular Landscapes, by 
Annibal Caracci, representing the 
Flight into Egypt, the Visitation, 
Assumption, Christ carried to the 
Sepulchre, the Birth of Jesus, and 
the Adoration of the Magi. 

On this side of the gallery are 
also: a Lot with his Daughters, 
by Gherardo delle Notti; two St 
Francis, by Annibal Caracci; the 
Death of Tancred; a Portrait, by 
Guercino; and those two splendid 
landscapes, the Windmill and the 
Temple of Apollo, by Claude Lor- 
raine. 

The opposite wing of the gallery 
begins with a beautiful landscape 
of Claude, representing the Repose 
in Egypt ; a Portrait, by Murillo ; 
a Holy Family, by Garofalo; the 
Prodigal Son, by Guercino ; two 
other Landscapes, by Claude ; a 
Magdalen of Annibal Caracci, and 
a fine Composition of Guercino, re- 
presenting St Agnes; a Madonna 
of Guido; a portrait of Innocent 
X, by Velasquez ; a St John Bap- 
tist, by Guercino ; the Marriage 



640 



CENTRAL ITALY.— ROME. FIRST DAT. 



of St Catherine, by Garofalo; a 
Salvator Rosa, representing Belisa- 
rius and our Saviour served by 
Angels in the Desert, by Both. The 
portraits of Luther, Calvin, and 
Catherine are copies from the 
original of Giorgione existing in 
the Pitti palace at Florence; the 
fine picture, representing a Society 
of Misers, is a classic work of the 
farrier of Antwerp. 

In the fourth wing we observe a 
Holy Tamily of Fra Bartolomeo ; 
a Susanna, by Annibal Caracci; 
the Four Elements, by Breughel; a 
Landscape, by Dominichino; a Sam- 
son and a St Paul, by Guercino; a 
Crucifixion, by Michael Angelo ; 
and the Sacrifice of Abraham by 
Titian. 

The principal remaining pictures 
are a Kermesse or Country Fes- 
tival, by Teniers ; two Landscapes, 
by Both; a portrait of Queen Gio~ 
vanna the younger, by Leonardo 
da Vinci ; a copy, by Nicholas Pous- 
sin, of the celebrated antique fresco 
of the Vatican known by the name 
of the Nozze Aldobrandine ; a por- 
trait of a Duke of Ferrara, by Tin- 
toretto; another Portrait and a St 
Catherine, by Titian ; a Deposition 
from the Cross, by II Padovano; 
two small Gherardo delle Notti, 
and a St Jerome, by Spagnoletto. 

Venetian Palace. — This palace 
was built in 1468 by Paul II, a 
Venetian, according to the design 
of Julian de Majano, with materials 
taken from the Coliseum and Forum 
of Nerva. It was during a long 
period the residence of the sovereign 
pontiffs, but was given by Clement 
VIII to the republic of Venice for 
the use of her ambassadors to the 
holy see. It now belongs to the 
Austrian government. 

Church of St Marco. — The pontiff* 
St Mark built this church in 337, 
and dedicated it to St Mark the 
Evangelist. It was rebuilt by 
Gregory IV in 833. Paul II pre- 



served the ancient tribune with its 
mosaic ornaments, and renewed the 
rest of the church in 1469. In the 
chapel of St Mark are paintings 
by Pietro Perugino and by Borgog- 
none. 

The Palazzo Torlonia contains 
several paintings by Camuccini, 
Landi, and the celebrated group 
of Canova representing Hercules 
throwing Lycas into the sea. 

Under the present Duke Alex- 
ander the collection of works of 
sculpture and painting has been so 
considerably increased, and the 
embellishments have been executed 
in such a style of splendour, that 
this palace may now be conside:red 
as one of the most magnificent of 
Rome. 

Chiesa del Gesu. — This splendid 
temple, belonging to the Jesuits, 
was commenced in 1 57 5 by Cardinal 
Alexander Farnese on the designs 
of Vignole, and continued by Gia- 
como delle Porta, w^ho raised the 
cupola and front with its Corinthian 
and composite pilasters. The in- 
terior is decorated with marble, 
gilt stuccoes, sculptures, and paint- 
ings. The frescoes of the tribune, 
of the cupola, and ceiling may be 
reckoned amongst the best works of 
Boccaccio. 

In the chapel of the right arm of 
the cross Carlo Maratta has repre- 
sented the death of St Francis 
Xavier. The high altar has four 
fine columns of giallo antico, and a 
picture of Muziano representing 
the Circumcision of Christ. 

The chapel of St Ignatius, de- 
signed by padre Pozzi, is one of the 
richest and most magnificent of 
Rome. Its four columns, with 
their base and capitals, are covered 
with lapis lazuli. The pedestals 
of the columns, the entablature 
and pediment are of verde antico. 
In the centre of the pediment is a 
marble group representing the 
Holy Trinity, by Ludovisi ; the 



ROMAN STATES. — ^ROME. SECOND DAT. 



641 



figure of our Saviour is by Ottone : 
the globe held by the Eternal 
Father is a single piece of lapis la- 
zuli. Padre Pozzi painted the St 
Ignatius placed over the altar; 
behind this picture is the statue of 
the saint in silver ; his body is 
under the altar in an urn of gilt 
bronze, on Avhich are represented 
different actions of this saint. "At 
the side of the altar are two groups 
representing the Christian faith 
embraced by barbarous nations, by 
Tendon ; Eeligion armed with the 
cross and beating down Heresy, by 
Legros. The paintings of the 
ceiling of this chapel are by Boc- 
caccio. 

Tomb of Cuius Poblicius Bibulus. 

-The family of the Poblicii was 
plebeian, and was divided into two 
branches, one bearing the surname 
of Malleolus, the other of Bibulus ; 
to a member of the latter branch 
this tomb was erected. The in- 
scription still existing informs us, 
that by a senatus consultum, and a 
decree of the people, a place was 
assigned to Cains Poblicius Bibulus, 
the son of Lucius, edile of the 
people, in order to erect a sepul- 
chral monument to himself and his 
posterity, in consideration of his 
honour and valour. 

C. POBLICIO L. F. BIBVLO. AED. PI. HONORIS 

VIRTVTISaVE CAVSSA SEXATVS 

CONSVtTO POPVLiaVE IVSSV LOCVS 

MONVMENTO . QVO . IPSE POSTEKEiaVE 

EI VS. INFERRENTVR PVBLICB. DATVS. EST 

The period of the plebeian edility 
of Bibulus is not precisely known, 
but it is conjectured, from the style 
of the monument and the ortho- 
graphy of the inscription, that he 
lived in the time of Caesar. This 
tomb was outside the walls of Ser- 
vius TuUius, but was enclosed within 
the walls erected by Aurelian in 
274, and by Honorius in402. The 
western front, which still remains, 
was adorned with four Doric pilas- 
ters, with the statue of Bibulus in 
the centre. Towards the south 
front are remains of the orna- 



mented architrave and frieze. In 
consequence of the elevation of the 
soil the sepulchral chamber is now 
fifteen feet under ground, and serves 
as a cellar to the house built on the 
the ruins of this monument. 

SECOND DAY. 

PROM THE CAPITOL TO THE LATERAN. 

The Capitol. — This celebrated 
hill was thus named by Tarquinius 
Prisons; in digging the earth in 
order to lay the foundations of the 
temple of Jupiter, a head (caput) 
was found on the spot, which cir- 
cumstance the augur considered as 
a presage that the city would be- 
come the capital of the world. 

This hill was previously named 
Saturnius, from the town built here 
by Saturn, and Tarpeius after the 
death of Tarpeia, the daughter of 
the commander to whom Romulus 
had entrusted its defence against 
the attacks of the Sabines. 

Its form is an irregular ellipsis, 
sloping at each extremity to the 
west ; the two elevations at the 
extremities were known by the an- 
cients under the nameof Capitolium 
and arx, on account of the temple 
of Jupiter Capitolinus, situated to 
the north, and of the citadel to the 
west; the space between them was 
named intermontium. The height 
of this hill above the level of the 
sea is 150 feet, and the circumfe- 
rence 4,400. 

In ancient times it was enclosed 
on all sides, being accessible only 
from the forum by the " Clivus 
sacer or asyli," the " Clivus capito- 
linus," and the " Centum gradus 
rupis Tarpese." By the first access 
those who obtained the honours of a 
triumph ascended to the temple; 
its direction followed the line of 
the cordonata which now leads to 
the arch of Severus, The clivus 
Capitolinus formed two branches, 
one leading from the forum to the 
arch of Tiberius, situated on the 
spot where the hospital named the 



642 



CENTRAL ITALY.— EOME. SECOND DAT. CAPITOL. 



Consolazione now stands, the pave- 
ment of the other remains near the 
column of Phocas ; the two branches 
unite behind the temple of Fortune 
under a modern house; they fol- 
lowed the direction of the inter- 
montium, passing under the en- 
trance of the tabularium, and the 
tower bearing the arms of Boniface 
IX. The third ascent led to the 
citadel near the Tarpeian rock. 

The citadel, or arx, was enclosed 
with walls and towers, even on the 
side of the intermontium. These 
walls were of large blocks of vol- 
canic stone or grey tufa, a speci- 
men of which is still visible in a 
gallery under the Caffarelli palace. 
Within the arx were the houses or 
rather cottages of Romulus, of Tatius, 
of Manlius, the temple of Jupiter 
Feretrius, built by Romulus to re- 
ceive the spoils of the victory which 
he gained over Acron, chief of the 
Cerumnians, and many other tem- 
ples and altars, on which account 
it was also named " Ara sacrorum." 
On the north side of the inter- 
montium was the asylum establish- 
ed by Romulus in order to increase 
the population of his city; on the 
south were the tabularium, the 
athenseum, and capitolian library. 
The tabularium derived its name 
from the bronze table deposited in it, 
on which were inscribed the senatus 
consult!, the decrees of the people, 
the treaties of peace, of alliance, 
and other public documents. It 
was built by Catulus, the successor 
of Sylla in the dictature, eighty- 
four years before the Christian era; 
was burnt in the contest between 
the soldiers of Vitellius and Ves- 
pasian, and was rebuilt by the 
latter, who collected, in 3,000 bronze 
tables, the acts which had been scat- 
tered over the whole empire. 

Some remains of the portico of 
this edifice are still existing towards 
the forum ; they are of the Doric 
order in peperiao, with the capi- 
tals in travertine. 

On the summit of the MU over- 



looking the corso, where the church 
of Araceli now stands, was the cele- 
brated temple of Jupiter CapitO" 
linus, buHt by Tarquin the Proud 
in fulfilment of the vow made by 
Tarquinus Priscus, after the last 
Sabine war. Having been destroyed 
three times by fire, it was rebuilt 
by Sylla, Vespasian, andDomitian. 
Under Sylla its dimensions were, 
according to Dionysius of Halicar- 
nassus, in Roman feet, circumfer- 
ence 770, length 200, breadth 185 ; 
the front, having a triple row of co- 
lumns (A^^hich was double on the 
sides), faced the south. The cella 
was divided into three naves with 
ediculas or chapels ; of those on the 
sides one was dedicated to Juno, the 
other to Minerva, and the third, in 
the centre, to Jupiter. It was in 
front of this temple that the ge- 
nerals to whom triumphal honours 
had been decreed sacrificed for the 
victories which they had obtained ; 
and in the court named the area 
capitolina, enclosed with porticoes, 
they partook of a banquet after the 
sacrifice. 

This temple was entire under 
Honorious ; Stilicon stript it of 
part of its ornaments ; Genseric, in 
445, carried away the gilt bronzes 
which formed its covering ; in the 
eighth century it was falling into 
ruins, and in the eleventh had al- 
together disappeared. 

Modern Capitol. — This edifice con- 
tains numerous objects of art, which 
render it a spot of the highest in-* 
terest. The modern embellishments 
are works of Paul III, who raised 
the two lateral buildings on the de- 
signs of INiichael Angelo, renewed 
the front of the senatorial palace, 
opened the street to the north-west, 
and built the steps of the ascent. 

At the foot of the balustrades are 
two Egyptian lions, of black granite, 
found near the church of St Stefano; 
on the top are two colossal statues 
of Castor and Pollux, in pentelic 
marble, found near the Jews' syna- 
gogue ; two marble trophies, called 



EOMAN STATES. — ROME. SECOKD DAY. C4PIT0L. 



643 



the trophies of Marius, though the 
style of sculpture resembles that of 
theearlytimes of Septunius Severus ; 
two statues of Constantme Augus- 
tus and of Constantine Caesar, found 
in the thermae of Constantine on 
the Quirinal ; two columns, the one 
on the right of the ascent is an 
ancient mole stone indicating the 
first mile of the Appian way, where 
it was fomid in 1584 ; the column 
on the left is modern ; the baU, 
however, is ancient, and as it was 
found at the base of Trajan's co- 
lumn, it is supposed that it once 
contained the ashes of that em- 
peror. 

In the centre of the square is the 
equestrian statue of Marcus Au- 
reUus, found near St John Lateran's, 
and placed on this spot by Paul III, 
under the direction of Michael 
Angelo. This is the only bronze 
equestrian statue remaining of all 
those which adorned ancient Rome. 

Senatorial Palace. — On the ruins 
of the tabularimn Boniface IX built 
a palace in 1380 for the residence of 
the senators. Paul III ornamented 
it with Corinthian pilasters under 
the direction of Michael Angelo. 
At the fomitain placed here by 
Sixtus V are three antique statues ; 
one represents Minerva, the drapery 
of which is of porphyry, found near 
Cora ; and the two others, the Nile 
and the Tiber, in Parian marble, 
found in the temple of Serapis on 
the Quirinal. 

The large hall leads to the tower 
of the capitol raised under Gregory 
XTTT by Longhi, a situation offer- 
ing the most extensive views of 
Rome and its environs. 

Museum. — In the court is a co- 
lossal statue of Ocean, formerly 
stationed near the arch of Severus, 
with two Satyrs, and two sarco- 
phagi, of inferior style, but interest- 
ing as connected with ancient 
customs ; on one is represented a 
double chase with arms and nets ; 
on the waUs are inscriptions in 



memory of several Praetorian sol- 
diers. 

Portico.— To the left of the en- 
trance are a colossal statue of 
Minerva, a head of Cybele from the 
villa Adriana, and a fragment of a 
statue of a captive king in violet 
marble. 

On the right of the entrance are 
a statue of Diana, a Jupiter, an 
Adrian oflferuig sacrifice, and a rem- 
nant of a statue of Ceres, in por- 
phyry, remarkable for the elegance 
of the drapery. 

Uall of Inscriptions.' — Around the 
walls are 122 imperial and consular 
inscriptions, ofiering a chronological 
series from Tiberius to Theodosius. 
In the centre is a square altar of 
ancient Greek style, on which are 
represented the labom's of Hercules. 

Hall c^f the Urn. — This name was 
given from a large sarcophagus in 
white marble covered with has- 
rehefs relating the most remarkable 
incidents m the life of AchiUes ; in 
the front is represented his quarrel 
with Agamemnon on account of 
Briseis, on the sides his departure 
from Scyros, and vengeance for the 
death of Patroclus ; behind is Priam 
supplicating for the body of Hector. 
The remaining objects of interest in 
this room are a Mosaic found at 
Antium ; a Palmyrean monument 
erected to AgHobolus and Malac- 
belus, as is ascertained by the in- 
scription in Greek and Palmyrean ; 
a bas-rehef of a priest of Cybele, 
and a small statue of Pluto and 
Cerberus. 

On the walls of the staircase are 
fragments of the ancient plan of 
Rome found in the ruins of the 
temple of Remus on the sacred way. 
We may notice particularly the site 
of the baths of Siu-a, the porticoes 
of Octavia and Hercules, buildings 
in the forum — viz., the Emilia and 
Julia basilisks, the Grsecostasis, a 
part of the imperial palace, the 
amphitheatre, theatre of Pompey 
and part of the thermae of Titus. 



614 



CENTRAL ITALY. — ROME. SECOND DAT. CAPITOL. 



Hall of the Vase. — The large 
marble vase formerly in the centre 
was fomid near the tomb of Cecilia 
MeteUa, and is placed on an antique 
altar having figures of the twelve 
divinities with their several attri- 
butes ; another vase in bronze found 
in the sea near Antium was a pre- 
sent from KingMithridates Eupator 
to the gymnasium of the Eupator- 
ists. On the two sarcophagi are 
sculptured in bas-relief the forma- 
tion and destruction of man accord- 
ing to the Neo-Platonic system, 
and the fable of Diana and En- 
dymion. We may notice also the 
bas-relief of the Iliac table, which 
relates several events of the Iliad, a 
tripod, and two statues of the Ephe- 
sian Diana. The Mosaic represent- 
ing doves is an imitation of the cele- 
brated work of Sosus, mentioned by 
Pliny, and then existing at Per- 
gamus in Asia Minor ; it was found 
in the villa Adriana at Tivoli. 

Gallery. — Opposite to the great 
staircase are the busts of Marcus 
Aurehus, and Septimius Severus, 
found at Antium in the ruins of 
the imperial villa ; and in the 
gaUery, those of Cato the censor, 
Scipio Africanus, Phocion, Adrian, 
Caligula, Caracalla, Marcus Aure- 
lius, and Domitius -^nobarbus. 
The inscriptions on the walls were 
found in the columbarium or sepul- 
chral chamber of the slaves and 
freedmen of Livia, on the Appian 
way ; the statue of a woman in 
a state of intoxication on the 
Nomentana. On a vase of a curious 
form is figured a Bacchanalian 
scene, and on a sarcophagus the 
Eape of Proserpine. 

Hall of the Emperors. — On the 
walls are several interesting bas- 
reliefs : the hunt of the Calydonian 
boar, by Meieager ; a sleeping Endy- 
mion, considered as a master-piece 
of antique sculpture ; Hylas carried 
away by the Nymphs. 

In the middle of this room is the 
seated statue of Agrippina, wife of 



Germanicus, but in the opinion of 
some, of an unknown Eoman lady. 
The busts of the emperors, em- 
presses, and Caesars are placed in 
chronological order. 

The series commences with that 
of Julius Caesar ; we shall notice 
particularly those of Marcellus, the 
nephew of Augustus, Tiberius, his 
brothers Drusus and Germanicus, 
CaUgula, Messalina, Nero, Poppsea 
his wife, Otho, ViteUius, Julia 
daughter of Titus, Plotina wife of 
Trajan, Adrian, Sabina his wife, 
and -^lius Csesar his son by adop- 
tion, the latter a bust in high pre- 
servation, and very rare. The re- 
mainder are Annius Verus, found 
near Civita Lavinia ; Commodus, 
his wife Crispina, Didius Julian, 
Pescennius Niger, Septimius Seve- 
rus, Decius, and Julian surnamed 
the Apostate. 

Hall of the Philosophers. —A col- 
lection of portraits of literary and 
philosophic personages of antiquity 
collected here has given it this 
denomination. The most interest- 
ing bas-reliefs are those of Hector 
conveyed to the funeral pile, accom- 
panied by Hecuba and Andromache 
in tears ; a sacrifice to Hygeia, in 
rosso antico, and fragment of a 
Bacchanahan bearing the name of 
the sculptor CaUimachus. 

Among these busts, which have 
been identified, are the follow- 
ing : Diogenes, Demosthenes, three 
of Euripides, four of Homer, two of 
Sophocles, Thucydides, Julian, Ar-» 
chimedes, and Sappho. 

Saloon: — The two columns of 
giaUo antico, twelve and half feet 
in height, were fomid near the 
tomb of Cecilia MeteUa ; the two 
Victories, supporting the arms of 
Clement XII, at the arch of 
Marcus Aurelius, in the corso ; a 
Jupiter and an Esculapius in nero 
antico, at Antium ; the two Cen- 
taurs, in the villa Adriana ; an 
infant Hercules, on the Aventine j 
this statue is placed on a rectangu- 



EOltfAN STATES. — EOME. SECOND DAT. CAPITOL. 



645 



lar altar, the bas-reliefs of which 
aUude to the Theogony of Hesiod ; 
Rhea in the pains of labour, the same 
goddess offering a stone to Saturn 
instead of her son Jupiter ; Jupiter 
nourished by the goat Amalthea, 
and the Corybantes drowning his 
cries by the clash of arms ; Jupiter 
raised to the throne in the midst of 
the divinities. 

The most remarkable statues are 
two Amazons, Mars and Venus, a 
IVIinerva, a Pythian Apollo, a 
colossal bust of Trajan with the 
civic crown, a gilt bronze statue of 
Hercules holding in one hand a 
club, in the other the apples of the 
garden of the Hesperides ; an ani- 
mated old woman, supposed to be 
Hecuba ; a colossal bust of Antoni- 
nus Pius, and an Harpocrates, 
found at the viUa Adriana. 

Hall of the Faun. — In the middle 
of this room is the beautiful Faun 
in rosso antico, found at the viUa 
Adriana, and fixed to the wall is 
the bronze inscription containing 
a part of the original senatus con- 
sultum gTantingthe imperial dignity 
to Vespasian. 

We next observe on a sarcopha- 
gus the fable of Diana and Endy- 
mion ; an altar dedicated to Isis ; 
a child playing with a mask of 
Siienus, the most perfect statue of 
a child handed down to us from 
antiquity ; a Cupid breaking his 
bow ; a child playing with a swan 
— this is a copy of a work in 
bronze, executed by the Carthagi- 
nian Boethius, and praised by Pliny ; 
a large sarcophagus in fine preser- 
vation representing the battle of 
Theseus and the Athenians against 
the Amazons ; the bas-reliefs which 
represent the vanquished Amazons 
are fuU of expression. 

Hall of the Gladiator. — The cele- 
brated statue of a man mortally 
wounded,called the Dying Gladiator, 
is the chief ornament of this room ; 
his costume, however, would indicate 
that he is a Gaul, and the statue 



probably formed part of a group 
representing the GaUic incursion 
into Greece. 

The other fine statues are Zeno, 
a Greek philosopher ; the Paun of 
Praxiteles, found at the viUa 
Adriana ; Antinous, admirably de- 
signed and executed ; a Flora, with 
beautiful drapery ; the bust of 
Brutus ; the Juno of a grand style ; 
a head of Alexander the Great ; an 
Ariadne cro%vned with ivy ; the 
statue of a female whose features 
express grief, bearing a covered 
vase with offerings, supposed by 
some to be Isis or a Pandora, but 
more probably Electra carrying 
funeral offerings to the tomb of her 
father ; a statue of Apollo holding 
the lyre, with a griffin at his feet, 
found near the sulphureous waters 
on the road to Tivoli. 

Cabinet. — Some objects of in- 
terest in the history of the arts are 
here united, but are not exposed to 
public view. The Venus of the 
Capitol is admirably executed ; the 
group of Cupid and Psyche was 
found on the Aventine. 

St Maria d'Aracoeli. — This 
church was bmlt in the eleventh 
century, on the site of the temple 
of Jupiter. TiH the year 1252 it 
was a Benedictine abbey. It was 
given to the Franciscan friars by 
Innocent IV. 

It is divided into three naves by 
twenty-two columns of Egyptian 
granite of different dimensions ; on 
the third near the principal en- 
trance is the inscription cvbicvlo 
AVGVSTOKVM ; thcsc columus pro- 
bably belonged to the imperial 
palace. The ceiling was gilded 
under Pius V. 

In the first chapel on the right, 
dedicated to St Bernardino di Sienne, 
are some frescoes ranked amongst 
the best works of Pinturicchio. In 
the chapel of St Matthew, this 
apostle and the principal incidents 
of his life were painted by Muziano. 
In that of St Francis is a painting 



646 



CDNTEAI. ITALY. — EQMB. SECOND DAT. CAPITOL. 



by Trevisani, and over the high 
altar a very ancient image of the 
Virgin ; some paintings by Mccola 
di Pesaro decorate the chapels of 
St Paul, of the Madonna, and of 
St Anthony. 

In the choir is a fine painting of 
the school of Raphael, which repre- 
sents the Virgin with St John the 
Baptist and St Elizabeth, and is 
supposed to be by Giulio Romano. 

Palace of the Conservatori. — Under 
the portico on the right is a statue 
of Julius Csesar, considered to be 
the only authenticated portrait 
known of that celebrated man ; on 
the left is that of Augustus with a 
prow at his feet, allusive to the 
victory of Actium. Around the 
court are several antique frag- 
ments ; on the left a colossal head 
of Domitian, the sepulchral urn of 
Agrippina, wife of Germanicus, the 
fragments of two porphyry columns, 
a bronze head and arm, said to 
have belonged to the colossal statue 
of Commodus ; two statues of Da- 
cian kings with Rome triumphant 
in the centre ; a group of a lion 
attacking a horse, found in the 
stream Almo, and a large pedestal 
which once supported a statue of 
Adrian. 

Hall of the Busts. — Pius VII trans- 
ferred to this place the busts, pre- 
viously in the Pantheon, of men 
illustrious in the sciences, letters, 
and arts. 

The principal regulations of this 
establishment are, that it is destined 
to perpetuate the memory of cele- 
brated Itahans, and that the busts 
of those only who have been 
acknowledged to have possessed a 
genius of the highest order can be 
admitted. 

In the first room are the portraits 
of celebrated foreigners who resided 
in Italy- — Poussin, Mengs, Winkel- 
man, Angelica Kauffman, and Suee, 
director of the Prench academy at 
Rome. 

In the second, the portraits of 



celebrated Italian artists of the 
thirteenth, fourteenth, and fifteenth 
centuries, executed at the expense 
of Canova : the Florentine Brunel- 
leschi, Mcolo Pisano, the sculptor 
and architect ; Giotto and Orcagna, 
both distinguished in painting, 
sculpture, and architecture ; the 
Florentine painters, Masaccio, Gio- 
vanni di Fiesole, Ghiberti, and the 
sculptor Donatello. 

The third room contains the por- 
traits of Pius VII and of Raphael, 
the former by Canova, who at his 
own expense raised busts, executed 
by sundry artists of his day, to the 
following celebrated men of the six- 
teenth century : Titian, Leonardo 
da Vinci, Michael Angelo Buona- 
rotti, Palladio, Fra Bartolomeo di 
St Marco, Mantegna, Signorelli, 
Pietro Perugino, Andrea del Sarto, 
Marc Antonio Raimondi, the Bolog- 
nese engraver Correggio, Paul Ve- 
ronese, and the architects Bramauta 
and Sanmichehi. 

The fourth room contains the 
busts of artists who flourished in 
the sixteenth, seventeenth, and 
eighteenth centuries : Annibal 
Caracci, by Naldini ; Canova pre- 
sented also the Francesco Marchi, 
a military architect of Bologna, the. 
Giulio Romano, Polydoro di Cara- 
Faggio, the Sebastian del Piombo, 
Ghirlandajo, Nanni di Udinej and 
Dominichino. 

In the fifth room we find the 
busts of the engraver Pickler, of 
the engineer Rapini, of Pietro di 
Cortona, and of Piranesi di Majano, 
a celebrated engraver and architect. 

The sixth contains the busts of 
literary characters : Trissino, Me- 
tastasio, Annibal Caro, Bodoni, 
Venuti, Aldus Manuccius, Mor- 
gagni, Verri, Bartoli, and Beccaria, 
presented by their friends or rela- 
tives. 

At the expense and under the di- 
rection of Canova the following have 
also been placed here : Dante and 
Torquato Tasso, the work of d'Este.; 



KOMAN STATES. — ROME. SECOND DAT. CAPITOL. 



647 



Alfieri, Petrarca, and Ariosto, by 
Finelli ; Goldoni, Christopher Co- 
lumbus, G alileo, Muratori, and Mor- 
gagni, by Tadolini ; Tiraboschi, the 
author of the literary history of 
Italy, 

The seventh room is occupied by 
the sepulchral monument of Canova, 
decreed by Leo XII and executed 
by Fabris. 

The last room is dedicated to the 
professors of music who acquired 
celebrity in their day : Cimarosa, 
whose bust, executed by Canova, 
was presented by Cartoial Gon- 
salvi; Sacchini, Corelli, and Paesillo 
of Taranto. 

Staircase. — Below the first flight 
of steps, on the left, is an inscrip- 
tion in honour of Caius Duilius, 
who gained the first naval victory 
over the Carthaginians in the year 
of Rome 492 ; this fragment of the 
time of the emperors was found 
near the arch of Severus. 

On the walls, forming a species 
of terrace, are four bas-reliefs : the 
first, of Marcus Aurelius ofiering a 
sacrifice at the temple of Jupiter ; 
the second, a triumph of the same 
emperor, who in the third is repre- 
sented on horseback, and in the 
fourth receiving a globe, the symbol 
of imperial power. The bas-relief 
on the wall on the left represents 
the Sabine Curtius passing the 
marsh during the combat between 
Romulus and Tatius. 

Halls of the Conservatori. — The 
Cavalier d'Arpino painted in the 
first saloon several facts of early 
Roman history : Romulus and 
Remus found at the foot of the 
Palatine, Romulus tracing the cir- 
cuit of the new city, the rape of 
the Sabine women, Numa ofiering 
a sacrifice, the battles between the 
Homans and Veians, the Horatii 
and Curiatii. 

Other subjects of Roman history, 
painted by Laureti, decorate the 
first antechamber: Mutius Scsevola 
burning his hand in presence of 



Porsenna, Brutus condemning his 
two sons, Horatius • Codes on the 
Sublician bridge, the Battle of the 
Lake Regillus. 

There are also statues in this 
room of Marc Antonio Colonna, 
who gained the battle of Lepanto ; 
of TommasoRospigliosi; Francesco 
Aldobrandmi ; Alexander Farnese, 
who commanded in Flanders ; and 
of Carlo Barberini, the brother of 
Urban VH. 

In the second antechamber is a 
frieze by Daniel di Yolterra, repre- 
senting the triumph of Marius after 
the defeat of the Cimbri, and in 
the centre the wolf with Romulus 
and Remus ; this is not the original 
wolf of the Capitol struck by light- 
ning, previously to the conspiracy 
of Cataline, as Cicero relates, but 
the one mentioned by Pliny and 
Dionysius of Halicarnassus, dedi- 
cated in the year of Rome 458, and 
found near the site of the ruminal 
fig tree at the base of the Palatine 
m the fifteenth century ; a fine 
statue of a shepherd boy taking a 
thorn from his foot ; busts of Junius 
Brutus, the first Roman consul, of 
Proserpine, Diana, Julius Caesar, 
and Adrian. 

In the third antechamber we 
observe several marble fragments, 
on which are engraved the cele- 
brated consular "fasti" down to 
Augustus, and over the entrance 
door a fine bas-relief head of Mithri- 
dates, king of Pontus. 

In the audience room are a frieze 
representing different Olympic 
games ; busts of Scipio Afrieanus ; 
Philip of Macedon ; Appius Clau- 
dius, in rosso antico ; a striking 
likeness, in bronze, of Michael 
Angelo, done by himself; a head 
of Medusa, by Bernini ; and a pic- 
ture of the Holy Family, by Giulio 
Romano. 

In the following room Annibal 
Caracci painted the exploits of 
Scipio Afrieanus ; the tapestry on 
the walls, with subjects taken from 



648 



CENTRAL ITALY. — ROME. SECOND DAT. CAPITOL. 



Roman history, was made at St 
Michele, in !Home. In the four 
corners are the busts of Sappho, 
Ariadne, Poppea, and Socrates. 

The last room is remarkable as 
possessing sundry frescoes of Pietro 
Perugino relative to the wars be- 
tween the Romans and Carthagi- 
nians ; in the chapel are a Madonna 
ofPinturicchio and the Evangelists 
of Caravaggio. 

Gallery of Paintings. — The de- 
scription commences on the left of 
the entrance. The first picture is 
the portrait of a Female by Gior- 
gione; a Madonna and Saints of the 
Venetian school, being a copy of 
Paul Veronese. The Apparition of 
Angels to the Shepherds,by Bassano ; 
the Sacrifice of Iphigenia, by Pietro 
di Cortona ; a Portrait, by Bronzino ; 
a St Lucia, one of the best works of 
the author ; a Madonna in glory, 
the Espousals of St Catherine, 
and a Holy Family, with St Je- 
rome, aU four by Benvenuto Ga- 
rofalo ; Vanity, by Titian ; a St 
Jerome, and a portrait of him- 
self, by Guido ; a Portrait, by Ve- 
lasquez, admirably coloured ; the 
Coronation of St Catherine, by Ga- 
rofalo; two Adoration of the Magi, 
by Scarsellino ; a Landscape, with 
the Martyrdom of St Sebastian, by 
Dominichino; an Orpheus playing 
on the lyre, by Pons sin ; and a Man 
caressing a Dog, by Palma Vecchio, 
are the principal paintings on this 
side of the room. 

Opposite, and particularly worthy 
of notice, is the Departure of Agar 
and Ishmael, a fine work ofMola's ; 
a Charity, by Anuibal Caracci, who 
also painted the St Cecilia, and a 
Madonna with St Francis, the cele- 
brated SybiUa Persica of Guercino ; 
the Madonna, by Albano, a fine 
composition ; a Magdalen, by Tin- 
toretto ; a Sketch, by Agostino Ca- 
racci, of the celebrated Communion 
of St Jerome at Bologna ; a Holy 
Family by Schidoni ; and the Espou- 
sals, in the ancient Ferrarese style. 



On the third waU are a Christ dis- 
puting with the Doctors, a fine com- 
position, by Valentin ; the Cumean 
Sybil of Dominichino ; Herminia and 
the Shepherd of Lanfranc ; the Sepa- 
ration of Jacob and Esau, by del 
Garbo ; a Magdalen of Guido ; Flora 
on a Triumphal Car, by Poussin ; 
a View of Grottaferrata, by Van- 
viteUi; a St John Baptist, by Guer- 
cino ; Cupid and Psyche, by Luti ; 
a Landscape and Magdalen, by Ca- 
racci ; the Magdalen of Albano; the 
Triumph of Bacchus, by Pietro di 
Cortona; a St Celia of RomaneUi. 

On the fourth wall we observe a 
portrait, byDossi, of Ferrara; ano- 
ther by Dominichino ; a Chiaro- 
oscuro of Polydore Caravaggio ; a 
Sketch of a soul in bliss, by Guido ; 
Virgin and St Anne with Angels, 
by Paul Veronese ; a Romulus and 
Remus nourished by the Wolf, by 
Rubens ; a Portrait, by Giorgione; 
Rachel, Leah, and Laban, byFerri; 
Circe presenting the beverage to 
Ulysses, by Sirani ; a Portrait, by 
Giorgione ; the Dispute of St Ca- 
therine, by Vasari ; a Madonna, by 
Francia ; a Portrait, by Bronzino ; 
a chiaro-oscuro representing Me- 
leager, by Polydore Caravaggio; 
and the Coronation of the Madonna 
with St John, by an author not 
known. 

On the wall to the left of the en- 
trance of the second room are the 
Descent of the Holy Ghost and the 
Ascension, by Paul Veronese ; an 
Adoration and the Madonna in ' 
glory, by Garofalo ; two Land- 
scapes, by Claude ; a Flemish piece, 
by Breughel ; sundry views of 
Rome, by Vanvitelli ; a Cupid of 
Tintoretto ; two Sketches and an 
Europa, by Guido ; a Battle, by 
Borgognone ; and a splendid re- 
presentation of our Saviour and the 
Adulterous Woman, by Titian. 

These are followed by a defeat of 
Darius at ArbaUse, by Pietro di 
Cortona; a Portrait, by Titian; the 
Polyphemus of Guido; a Judith, by 



ROMAN STATES. — ROSIE. SECOND DAT. 



649 



Giulio Romano ; a Holy Family of 
Andrea Sacclii ; the Journey into 
Egypt, by Scarsellino ; a St John 
Baptist, by Parmigiano ; a St 
Francis of Annibal Caracci ; a 
Claude; a fine Garofalo, represent- 
ing the Madonna, Child, and St 
John, and the Judgment of Solomon, 
by Bassano. On the second wall 
is the celebrated St Petronilla of 
Guercino, a copy of which in mosaic 
is in St Peter's ; on the left of this 
classic picture is an allegory, on 
the right a Magdalen, of the school 
of Guercino. 

On the third wall are the Baptism 
of our Saviour, by Titian ; a St 
Francis, a Holy Family, and a fine 
St Sebastian, by Ludovico Caracci ; 
a Gipsy and a Young Man, by 
Caravaggio ; a Madonna and 
Child, by Perugino ; a St Matthew 
of Guercino; a St Bernard, by Bel- 
lini ; and a Soldier reposing, by 
Salvator Rosa. 

The principal pictures that fol- 
low are a Flagellation, by Tinto- 
retto ; an Old Man, by Bassano ; a 
Cleopatra in the presence of Au- 
gustus, and a St John Baptist, by 
Guercino ; the Baptism of Christ, 
by Tintoretto ; Jesus driving the 
Money-changers out of the Temple, 
a fine St Sebastian of Guido ; the 
Conversion of St Paul, and Christ 
Fulminating Vice, by Scarsellino ; 
a fine painting of St Barbara, by 
some attributed to Annibal Caracci, 
by others to Dominichino ; a St 
Sebastian, by Garofalo ; a Holy 
Family, by Parmigiano; the Queen 
of Sheba, by Allegrini ; a St Chris- 
topher with our Saviour, by Tinto- 
retto ; a St Cecilia of Ludovico 
Caracci ; and a Sketch of Cleopatra, 
by Guido. 

On the fourth wall are two Phi- 
losophers, by " n Calabrese ;" a Ber- 
sabea of Palma ; the Graces, byPalma 
the younger ; Nathan and Saul, by 
Mola ; Jesus at the house of the 
Pharisee, by Bassano ; a Magdalen 



in Prayer, and the Rape of Europa, 
both by Paul Veronese. 

Behind this edifice was the acro- 
polis or fortress of Rome, and the 
Tarpeian rock, a part of which is 
visible from the Piazza deUa Con- 
solazione. It still preserves a cer- 
tain height, but it should be borne 
in mind that the soil is raised about 
forty feet above its ancient level, 
and that the falls of earth from the 
lop have also tended to diminish its 
primitive height. Those who were 
declared guilty of treason to their 
country were hurled headlong from 
this rock ; such was the fate of 
Manlius. 

From the Capitol two streets lead 
to the forum ; that to the left passes 
by the substructions of the tabula- 
rium. Under the chuch dedicated 
to St Joseph is the 

Mammertine Prison, built under 
Ancus Martins, and described by 
Varro ; the chamber still existing 
is covered with rectangular slabs of 
volcanic stone called reddish tufa ; 
its form is that of a trapezium, 
twenty -four feet long, eighteen wide, 
and thirteen high. Towards the 
north-west are traces of a window 
which sheds here its feeble light. 
No trace of an ancient door being 
visible, it is conjectured that crimi- 
nals were lowered into the prison 
through the aperture covered with 
an iron gratmg. The eastern front 
is well preserved, and on blocks of 
travertine are the names of the 
consuls, Rufinus and Nerva, who 
restored it. From the steps leading 
to the prison, named " Scalae Ge- 
moniae," the bodies of those put to 
death in the prison were dragged 
through the forum and thrown into 
the Tiber from the SubUcian bridge. 

These executions took place in 
the inferior or Tullian prison, thus 
named from Servius Tullius. It 
was cut in the rock about twelvfr 
feet under the level of ancient 
Rome. We learn from history that 



650 



CENTRAL ITALY. — ROaiE. SECOND DAY. 



many celebrated personages of an- 
tiquity died in this prison. Jugurtha 
of starvation ; Lentulus, Cethegus, 
Statilius, Cabinius, and other ac- 
complices of CatiUna, by strangu- 
lation ; Sejanus by order of Tibe- 
rius, and Simon, son of Joras, chief 
of the Jews, by that of Titus. It is 
supposed that, after having adorned 
the triumphal pomp, the captive 
chiefs were confined in the Tulhan 
prison tiU sent to the places assigned 
as their residence. Syphax finished 
his days at Tivoli ; Perseus, king 
of Macedon, at Alba Eucensis. 

The celelDrity of this prison is 
increased by the pious tradition 
that the apostles St Peter and St 
Paul were confined in it under 
Nero, and a spring of water, said 
to have been used at the baptism 
of Processus and Martinian, the 
keepers of the prison, who after- 
wards suffered martyrdom, is still 
visible. Over the prison is the 

Church of St Giuseppe, built in 
1598. The picture over the high 
altar, representing the Marriage of 
the Madonna, is by Benedetto 
Bramante ; the Birth of Christ, on 
the left altar, is by Carlo Maratta ; 
the Death of St Joseph, by Roma- 
nelh. The three isolated columns 
near this church belong to the 

Temple of Jupiter Tonans, raised 
by Augustus, on his return from 
the war in Spain, where one 
of his slave?, who carried a light 
during a journey by night, was 
struck dead by lightning. This 
temple having suffered, probably 
during the fire which consumed the 
athenaeum and other buildings in 
this direction, was restored by the 
Emperors Severus and Caracalla. 
In comparing those parts of the 
cornice deposited in the portico of 
the tabularium with those of the 
temple of Concord, two periods of 
Roman architecture are easily dis- 
tinguished ; that of Augustus and 
that of Severus, of the perfection 



and of the decline of the art. Of 
this monument there remain only 
three fluted Corinthian columns, 
four feet two inches in diameter. 
The entablature is remarkable for 
the different instruments used in 
the sacrifices, sculptured in bas- 
relief on the frieze. 

The ancient pavement of poly- 
gonal basaltic blocks at the base of 
this temple formed a part of the 
Clivus Capitolinus, one of the 
roads that led to the Capitol. 

Temple of Fortune. — It was 
hitherto generally supposed that 
the eight columns, near the temple 
of Jupiter Tonans, were remains of 
the celebrated temple of Concord, 
in which the senate occasionally 
assembled ; but although situated 
between the Capitol and forum, 
the front of the temple of Concord 
was turned to the forum accord- 
ing to Plutarch, and Dio asserts 
that it was in the immediate vi- 
cinity of the Mammertine prison. 
These columns formed part of the 
temple of Fortune, built under 
Maxentius, and rebuilt by the 
senate. They are all of different 
diameters, of the Ionic order, and 
of Egyptian granite ; some are 
twelve feet in circumference, and 
forty in height, comprising the 
basis and capital. The frieze is 
ornamented internally with foliage 
and arabesques, belonging in part 
to the primitive temple, and of the 
fine period of Roman architecture, 
but the others are evidently of the* 
fourth century. 

Several chambers, of a brick 
construction, as used under Adrian, 
have been recently discovered near 
this temple ; the columns and capi- 
tals being profusely adorned with 
trophies and victories appear to be 
of the time of Septimius Severus. 
An inscription, on an entablature 
of the portico, indicates that in 
these chambers were the statues of 
the twelve divinities, called CoU' 



ROMAN STATES. — ROME. SECOND DAY. 



651 



sentes, whose names have been 
preserved by Ennius in the follow- 
ing order : — Juno, Vesta, Minerva, 
Ceres, Diana, Venus, Mars, Mer- 
cury, Jupiter, Neptune, Vulcan, 
Apollo ; and that these statues 
were restored by Pretextat, prefect 
of Rome, in the year 368 of the 
Christian era. 

On the right of the temple of 
Jupiter Tonans are the remains of 
the 

Temple of Concord, so interest- 
ing in Roman history, and in the 
topography of the ancient city, 
discovered under a mass of marble 
fragments of excellent workman- 
ship. Three votive inscriptions, 
one highly preserved, have deter- 
mined its position, and agree with 
the testimony of ancient writers. 

Some vestiges of the cella, with 
fragments of giallo antico, africano, 
and violet marble are now the only 
remains. It appears by these frag- 
ments that the interior columns, 
the base of which was highly 
finished, and of the style of those I 
found at the thermge of Titus, were j 
of giallo antico and violet marble. [ 
An inscription preserves the name i 
of M. Antonius Geminus, prefect of 
the military treasure, who dedicated 
the temple, which seems to have 
been destroyed by fire before the 
eighth century. 

Roman Forum. — The celebrity of 
this spot, the most classic of ancient 
Rome, has induced antiquarians to 
trace its limits and assign to each 
edifice its peculiar locality. The 
system of Nardini, founded on the 
authority of the classics, has been 
in a great measure verified by the 
discoveries made till the present 
day. 

The Romans having, under Ro- 
mulus and Tatius, occupied the 
Palatine, and the Sabines the Capi- 
toline, hill, they had no other 
means of communication than by 
the kind of isthmus which, com- 
mencing at the Tarpeian rock, 



joined the Palatine towards its 
northern angle. According to 
Dionysius of Hahcarnassus, this 
valley was then covered with woods 
and marshes, and had a slope 
towards the east and west, which 
was most sensible, from the spot 
now occupied by the granary near 
the column of Phocas to the arch 
of Severus and the forum of Nerva, 
The springs which, from the decli*- 
vities of the Quirinal, Viminal. and • 
Esquihne, fell into the valley on 
one side, and from the Aventine, 
Capitoline, and Palatine, into that 
on the other side, formed marshes 
which, in the latter case, being 
united with the overflowings of the 
river, became a lake, called the 
Velabrum. By a passage in Varro 
it is ascertained that in his time, 
prior to the dictatorship of Csesar, 
the extent of the forum was of 
seven jugera, and each of these 
jugera contained a surface of 240 
Roman feet long and 220 wide ; the 
sides presented a superfices of 
201,600 square feet, or an extension 
of 550 feet long and 366 wide, the 
city itself being then only one mile 
in circuit. It was enlarged towards 
the east successively under Caesar 
and Augustus. 

By the excavations made of late 
it appears that the forum existed 
till the eleventh century, and was 
totally destroyed in 1080, when 
Robert Guiscard set fire to this 
part of the city. It was afterwards 
used as a place for depositing rub- 
bish, which in the course of time 
accumulated to the height of 
twenty-four feet. It afterwards 
became a market for oxen, and 
hence it derived its appellation of 
Campo Vaccino. 

Edifices ofihe Forum — The forum 
of Rome, like all those of the Italian 
cities, was, according to Vitruvius, 
of an oblong form. In order to 
render it regular a portico of two 
stories was erected, with chambers 
above and shops (tabernse) on the 



652 



CEKTKAL ITAI.T,— -ROME. SECOND DAT. 



ground floor. Around it many 
buildings for different uses were 
raised, which, on the authority of 
ancient writers, and fragments of 
the ancient plan of Rome preserved 
in the Capitol, were disposed in the 
following order •. — 

In the centre of the southern 
side was the curia or senate house ; 
on the right of this building the 
comitium, or place destined for the 
popular assemblies or public plead- 
ings ; the graecostasis, or hall for 
the reception of foreign ambassa- 
dors ; and the Fabian arch, raised 
by Fabius, conqueror of Allobrogi. 
On the left were the temple of 
Castor and Pollux, the lake of 
Juturna, and temple of Vesta. 

The western side was occupied 
by the temple of Julius Ceesar, the 
Julian basilic, and the area of 
Ops and Saturn. On the north, 
under the Capitol, were the temple 
of Saturn, the arch of Tiberius, 
the temple of Vespasian, and the 
Schola Xantha. 

On the east were the two Emilian 
basilics and shops. In the centre 
of the area were the rostra or tri- 
bune whence harangues were ad- 
dressed to the people, thus named 
from the beaks of the vessels taken 
by the Komans from the Antiates ; 
this tribune was opposite to the 
senate house and surrounded with 
the statues of Roman ambassadors 
killed while executing their mission ; 
it was placed under Julius Caesar 
near the southern angle of the 
forum, and called " nova rostra " 
the ancient site preserving the 
appellation of " vetera." Oppo- 
site the temple of Cassar v.as a 
column of giallo antico erected in 
his honour At the foot of the 
temple of Saturn was a gilt column, 
milliarura aureum, on which were 
engraved the distances from Rome 
to the principal cities of the empire; 
near the arch of Septimius Severus 
was the rostral column raised to 
Caius Duilius to commemorate his 



victory over the Carthaginians. It 
is known by the testimony of 
ancient authors, that several other 
monuments existed in the forum, 
such as the Jani, or public porches 
where commercial men assembled ; 
the column of Mevius, conqueror 
of the Latins ; the equestrian sta- 
tue of Domitian, but tlieir situation 
is uncertain. 

To the north-east of the forum 
is the 

Arch of Septimius Severus, raised 
by the senate and Roman people in 
the year 205 of the Christian era, 
to commemorate the victories gained 
by Severus over the Parthians and 
other eastern nations. 

The arch is decorated with eight 
fluted columns of the composite 
order, and with bas-reliefs repre- 
senting engagements with the Ara- 
bians, Parthians, and Adiabenians ; 
on the western side is a staircase 
leading to the platform, on which 
was placed the statue of the Em- 
peror seated between his sons 
CaracaUa and Geta in a triumphal 
car drawn by six horses abreast. 

On the left is the 

Church of St Luke, one of the 
most ancient in Rome. Alexander 
IV restored and dedicated it to St 
Martina, but Sixtus IV having 
presented it in 1 588 to the academy 
of painting, it was rebuilt on the 
designs of Pietro di Cortona, and 
dedicated to St Luke. The paint- 
ing over the right altar, represent- 
ing the Martyrdom of St Lazarus, 
is by Baldi ; the Assumption, by 
Sebastian Conca ; St Luke paint- 
ing the B. Virgin is a copy of 
Raphael, by Grammatica. In the 
subterranean church is a chapel 
built by Pietro di Cortona. 

The Academy of the Fine Arts, 
called St Luca, established by Six- 
tus V, is composed of painters, 
sculptors, and architects, and holds 
its sittings in the house adjoining 
the church. It contains several 
portraits of celebrated painters : 



ROMAN STATES. — ROME. SECOND DAT. 



653 



the St Luke of Rapliael, in which 
is inserted his own portrait ; two 
Landscapes, by Gaspar Poussin ; 
three pictures of Salvator Rosa ; 
and a Christ with the Pharisee, by 
Titian. 

The front of the Church of St 
Adrian, built of brick, but formerly 
covered with stucco, dates from 
the fifth century of the Christian 
era. The door, covered with bronze, 
was taken to St John Lateran un- 
der Alexander VII. When the in- 
terior of the church was rebuilt in 
1649, a pedestal belonging probably 
to the Emilian basilic was found ; 
the inscription indicates that Pro- 
bianus, prefect of the city, had 
raised a statue there. 

The Column of Phocas was dis- 
covered during the excavations 
made in 1813, by the inscription on 
the pedestal, that this column, 
with its gilt statue on the top, had 
been raised in 608 by Smaragdus, 
the exarch, to the Emperor Phocas, 
in commemoration of the tranquil- 
lity he maintained in Italy. The 
other inscriptions subsequently 
found are those relative to the 
" Averrunci" gods, to Minerva 
Averrunca, Marcus Cispius, the 
praetor, Lucius, and Constantius 
Caesar, Three brick pedestals, for- 
merly covered with marble, sup- 
ported large columns of red granite. 

This column is fluted Corinthian, 
and belonged originally to some 
edifice of the time of the Antonines. 
Its diameter is four feet two inches ; 
the pedestal ten feet eleven inches 
in height. It appears from this 
column that even in the seventh 
century the forum of Caesar was 
still one of the most frequented 
spots in Rome. 

Greecostasis. — It is ascertained 
by passages from ancient authors, 
and the plan of Rome at the Capi- 
tol, that these fine remains of 
ancient architecture belonged to the 
grsecostasis, or building assigned 
for the reception of foreign ambas- 



sadors. The front, composed of 
eight columns, faced the temple of 
Antoninus and Faustina ; on the 
sides were thirteen columns of pen^ 
telic marble, fluted, and of the 
Corinthian order. They are four 
and a half feet in diameter, forty- 
five in height, comprising base and 
capital. The entablature they sup- 
port is of the most finished work- 
manship. The capitals equal in 
beauty those of the Pantheon, and 
these ruins may be considered as 
the best model of the proportions 
and ornaments of the Corinthian 
order. 

Curia. — Towards the Velabrum, 
and opposite to the Capitol, was the 
Curia Hostilia, used for the sittings 
of the senate; it was rebuilt by 
Augustus, and called Curia Julia. 
The remains of the hall now form 
part of a carpenter's house, near 
the church of St Maria Liberatrice. 
The front, which was probably or- 
namented with a portico and mar- 
ble columns, has disappeared. 

The Temple of Vesta was raised 
by Adrian I in the eighth century 
on the ruins of the temple of Vesta, 
in which the Vestal virgins pre- 
served the Palladium and the 
sacred fire. 

In the tribune is a mosaic of the 
eighth century ; the painting over 
the principal altar is by Zuccaii, 

On the declivity of the Palatine 
behind this temple were the Luper- 
cal, a grotto sacred to Pan, and the 
Ruminal fig tree under which Ro- 
mulus and Remus were found by 
Faustulus. 

Via Sacra. — This celebrated way 
received its name from the scrifices 
which accompanied the peace be 
tween Romulus and Tatius It 
commenced at the coliseum, 
passed near the temple of Venus 
and Rome, the basilic of Constan- 
tine, the temple of Romulus and 
Remus, of Antoninus and Faustina, 
and entered the forum by the Fa- 
bian arch, near which a part 
L 2 



654 



CITNTEAL ITALY. — ROME. SECO^Tt) BAY. 



branched off towards the temple of 
Vesta, ended at the Via Nuova, 
which joined the circus, following 
the direction of the street leading 
at present from the forum to the 
church of St Anastasia. The prin- 
cipal branch of the Via Sacra passed 
through the forum, and finished at 
the Capitol; but according to 
Varro, at the citadel called Arx 
Sacrorum. 

The Temple of Antoninus and 
Faustina was built by the senate in 
honour of Faustina, the name of 
her husband Antoninus was added 
after his death. In front of the 
cella is a portico of six columns, 
with three on each side of cipoUino, 
the largest known of this kind of 
marble, being forty-three feet high, 
including the base and capital. 
They support an entablature com- 
posed of enormous blocks of white 
marble. On the frieze are bas- 
reliefs of grifiins, chandeliers, and 
vases of the best style of sculpture. 
The walls of the cella, built of pe- 
perino, or Albano stone, were co- 
vered with white marble. In an- 
cient times twenty- one marble steps 
led to the interior; at present there 
are about sixteen feet between the 
base of the portico columns and the 
level of the Via Sacra. 

Temple of Romulus and Remus. — 
It is ascertained from the ecclesias- 
tical writers that the church of SS. 
Cosimo and Damiano was built on 
the ancient temple of Romulus and 
Remus. The cella, now the vesti- 
bule of the church, is of a circular 
form, and on the marble pavement 
was engraved the plan of Rome, 
fragments of which are now in the 
Capitol. The copy of its inscrip- 
tion, preserved in a manuscript of 
the Vatican library, proves that 
this temple was built under Con- 
stantine. 

The upper part of the temple 
has been adapted as the vestibule 
of the church of SS. Cosimo and 
Damiano, built in 527 by Pope 



Felix III ; a bronze door brought 
from Perugia, and two porphyry 
columns, form the entrance ; in 
the ancient church, now under 
ground, is an altar under which 
repose SS. Cosimo and Damiano. 

The two cipollino columns, mea- 
suring from the base to the capital 
thirty-one feet, were a part of the 
portico which belonged to the tem- 
ple of Remus. 

The three large arches near these 
columns are remains of the 

Basilic of Constantine. — Aurelius 
Victor says, that in the year 311 of 
the Christian era Maxentius raised 
this edifice, which, after his defeat, 
was consecrated by the senate to 
Constantine. 

The plan of this building is that 
of a basilic, being divided into three 
naves ; the style of the construc- 
tion and ornaments is identical 
with that of the thermae of Diocle- 
tian, and other edifices of the fourth 
century ; in a fragment of the roof 
which fell in 1828, several medals 
were found, one in silver of Max- 
entius. Prom the fifteenth to the 
middle of the seventeenth century, 
these ruins were supposed to have 
been those of the temple of Peace. 

The length of the building was 
300 feet, the width 200, and height 
seventy. The middle nave was 
supported by eight fluted Corinthian 
columns. The nave to the north is 
weU preserved ; a change is visible 
in the construction, the entrance 
having been originally opposite the 
coliseum, and the tribune at the 
head of the great nave ; another 
opening was afterwards made facing 
the Palatine, when the tribune was 
transferred to the centre of the 
north nave. Remnants of the giallo 
antico pavements, of capitals, por- 
phyry columns, and entablatures 
were discovered during the recent 
excavations. 

St Francesca Romana was built 
under Paul I, renewed under Leo 
IV and Paul V, when the present 



ROMAN STATES. — ROME. SECOND DAY. 



655 



ff ont was raised. Before the high 
altar is the tomb of St Francesca, 
(covered with precious marble and 
gilt bronze ; on- the tomb of Gre- 
gory XI, by Olvieri, is a bas-relief 
representing the return of the 
Popes to Kome after an absence of 
seventy- two years at Avignon. 

The Arch of Titus, raised by the 
senate to Titus, son of Vespasian, 
after the conquest of Jerusalem, is 
of pentelic marble, and had, on 
each side, four half columns of the 
composite order ; two only now re- 
main at each front : they support 
the entablature and attic. 

The bas-reliefs under the arch 
represent Titus on a car drawn 
by four horses abreast, driven by 
Rome under the figure of a female, 
with Victory crowning the em- 
peror, who is preceded and followed 
by his soldiers. 

The most interesting part of the 
triumphal pomp consists of the pri- 
soners, the golden table and sacred 
vases, the seven-branched golden 
candlestick, and other spoils of 
the temple of Jerusalem. In the 
centre is the figure of Titus borne 
by an eagle in allusion to his apo- 
theosis. On the two Iront angles 
are four victories of a good style of 
sculpture, and on the frieze of the 
entablature is a representation of 
the river Jordan, indicating the 
conquest of Judaea, men leading 
oxen to be sacrificed, and soldiers 
with round shields. 

This arch, though small and of 
a single arcade, is the finest monu- 
ment of the kind left us by anti- 
quity. 

Temple of Venus and Rome.— The 
Emperor Adrian himself made the 
designs of this temple, and superin- 
tended its construction. Dio desig- 
nates the primitive site as the atrium 
of the golden house of Nero, at the 
summit of the Via Sacra, near the 
amphitheatre. Having suffered 
from fire, it was restored by Max- 
entius. 



This temple was raised in the 
centre of an oblong enclosure formed 
by a portico 500 feet long and 300 
wide, with a double row of granite 
columns, each three and half feet in 
diameter. It was divided into two 
parts, with two distinct and sepa- 
rate ceUse, though they formed but 
one tehiple, consisting of two rows 
of columns at each front, and a 
single row at each side. Its length 
was 333 feet, and width 160 ; ten 
columns at each front, twenty at 
each side, aU of Proconesus marble 
(white with grey veins), nearly six 
feet in diameter, of the Corinthian 
order, and fluted, as is proved by 
the fragments that remain. The ex- 
ternal walls of the ceUa were covered 
with the same quality of marble, 
five and half feet in thickness. V" 

The temple had two entrances, 
one towards the forum by the 
steps near the arch of Titus, the 
other towards the coliseum by a 
double staircase, the remains* of 
which are stiU visible from the 
court ; seven steps led to the vesti- 
bule, and five others to the cella. 
The interior of the two ceUae was 
decorated with porphyry columns 
two feet two inches in diameter^ 
the roof was gUt, and the inside 
walls and pavement were covered 
with giallo antico and serpentine. 

Palatine HiU. — The traditions 
admitted by ancient writers re- 
specting the name of this celebrated 
hill are that Evander founded on it 
a city called PaUantium, from his 
native town in Arcadia, a name 
changed into PaUatium, from which 
is derived Palatinus. 

This hill is surrounded by the 
other hUls of Rome ; by the Aven* 
tine to the west, the Cselian to the 
south, the Esquihne to the east, 
the Viminal, Quirinal, and Capito- 
line to the north and north-west. 
Its form is that of a trapezium 
6,400 feet in circumference ; it is 
156 feet above the level of the sea, 
and was the cradle of Rome. Ro- 



656 



CENTRAL ITALY. — ROME. SECOND DAY. 



mulus had his cottage on the part 
turned towards the Circus Maxi- 
mus ; Numa near the temple of 
Vesta ; Tullius HostHius built his 
house on the summit overlooking 
the forum ; Ancus Martins on the 
spot where the temple of Venus 
and Rome was afterwards erected ; 
and Tarquinius Priscus on the 
slope overlooking the Velahrum. 

In latter times it was the resi- 
dence of the Gracchi, of Crassus, 
Hortensius, Cicero, Clodius, Mark 
Antony, Claudius Nero, father of 
Tiberius, and of Octavius, father of 
Augustus. To this last is due the 
commencement of the 

Palace of the Qesars. — His pater- 
nal mansion having been destroyed 
be fire, Augustus built a house on 
the middle of the hill towards the 
Aventine, adding to it a temple of 
Apollo, a portico, and a library. It 
was enlarged by Tiberius in the 
direction of the Velabrmn, and by 
Caligula, who raised a front with 
porticoes in the forum, and a bridge 
supported by marble columns, in 
order to unite it with the Capito- 
line liiU. 

The whole Palatine was not ex- 
tensive enough for the improve- 
ments made by Nero, which occu- 
pied the space between this hill, 
the Esquiline, and the gardens of 
Mecaenas imder the " agger." This 
immense palace contained exten- 
sive gardens, woods, ponds, baths, 
and several other buildings. Hav- 
ing been destroyed by fire in the 
64th year of our era, Nero repaired 
it with such magnificence that it 
was called the "domus aurea," or 
golden house. It would be difficult 
to form an idea of its magnificence. 
According to ancient writers it was 
surrounded with porticoes, having 
not less than three thousand co- 
lumns, and before the vestibule was 
his colossus in bronze, 120 feet 
high, the work of the celebrated 
Zenodorus. Most of the rooms 
and haUs were adorned with sta- 



tues, columns, and precious mar- 
bles. 

The palace not being finished at 
the death of Nero, a considerable 
sum was assigned by Otho for its 
completion, but owing to the short- 
ness of his reign his orders was not 
executed. Vespasian and Titus 
demoUshed, or destined to other 
uses, the part on the Esquihne ; 
they built the coliseum and 
thermae ; their successors embel- 
lished or partially changed the 
palace on the Palatine. After the 
translation of the empire it was 
abandoned, suffered much mider 
Alaric in 410, and Genseric in 455, 
when the bronze vases, and the 
sacred utensils of the temple of 
Jerusalem were taken away. It 
was, however, continually restored, 
served as the residence of the Em- 
peror Heraclius in the seventh 
century, and existed even in the 
eighth. At the present day it pre- 
sents nothing but ruins more or 
less imposing by their masses. 
The evergreen oak, laurels, cy- 
presses, and other trees add to the 
pictm-esque beauty of these ruins, 
particularly towards the forum and 
the Circus Maximus. 

Orti Farnesini. — These gardens, 
formed by Paul III of the Farnese 
family, formerly contained statues, 
bas-reliefs, and a variety of species 
of marbles which have been sent to 
Naples. The most considerable 
ruins are those of the substructions 
which supported the external por- 
ticoes of the palace ; and in the 
direction of the circus traces exist 
of the theatre of Caligula. Two 
chambers, known by the appellation 
of baths of Li via, are covered with 
paintings ; and near these are the 
ruins of the Palatine library, and 
the site of the temple of Apollo. 

Villa Palntina. — 'The villa Spada, 
now villa Mills, is built on the ruins 
of the house of Augustus. On the 
ground floor, under a portico formed 
by four granite columns, are fres- 



ROMAN STATES. — ROME. SECOND DAY. 



657 



coes of Eaphael representing Venns • 
and the Nymphs ; they were en- i 
graved by Mark Antonio ; and on 
the roof Hercules, with other gods, 
and the Muses. Under ground are 
three chambers, well preserved, 
which formed part of the house of 
Augustus. 

In the garden contiguous to the 
villa are remains of an oblong court, 
used as an arena for wresthng; and 
in the centre, on the eastern side, 
is a tribune with niches for statues, 
where the games took place in rainy 
weather. From the roofs of the 
ancient palace is an extensive view 
of Rome, and of the campagna. 

Meta Sudans. — We learn from 
Cassiodorus that this " meta" was 
constructed under Domitian, and 
from medals of the cohseum that 
it had the form of the boundaries of 
the circus called "metse." It derived 
the appellation of " meta sudans" 
from the water that issued from it. 
It was found, by recent excavations, 
that the ancient basin was eighty 
feet in diameter. 

The limits of the ancient quarters 
of Rome 11, m, IV, and X united 
at this spot. 

Colossus of Nero. — When Nero 
built his golden house he ordered 
Zenodorus, a celebrated sculptor, to 
execute a colossal statue in bronze, 
of 120 feet in height, representing 
his own portrait under the form of 
Apollo, or of the sun, and placed it 
in the vestibule. Vespasian trans- 
ferred it to the atrium of the palace, 
which was situated on the spot 
where Adrian erected the temple of 
Venus and Rome. Twenty-four 
elephants were employed in remov- 
ing it to its pedestal, the remains 
of which are still visible near the 
"meta sudans." Commodus sub- 
stituted his own likeness to that of 
Nero, but after his death that of 
the sun was replaced. This statue 
existed tiU the beginning of the 
fifth century, when it was destroyed 



in order to convert the bronze to 
other purposes. 

Coliseum. — The Emperor Flarius 
Vespasianus built this amphithe- 
atre on his return from the war in 
Judaea, on the spot occupied by 
ponds in the gardens of Nero, and 
nearly in the centre of ancient 
Rome ; it was dedicated by Titus, 
and finished by Domitian. 

The games celebrated at its dedi- 
cation lasted 100 days, during which 
5,000 wild beasts and several thou- 
sand gladiators were kiUed. Nau- 
tical games also were given here. 
These various games were continued 
till the year 523. From the eleventh 
to the fourteenth century it served 
as a fortress to the Frangipani and 
Annibaldi, noble Roman families ; 
to which period may be attributed 
its ruin. In 1381 it was transformed 
into an hospital, and afterwards 
furnished materials for building the 
Cancellaria, the Farnese, the Bar- 
berini, the Venetian, and other 
palaces. 

The amphitheatre had a triple 
row of arcades, one raised over the 
other, intermixed with half-columns 
wliich supported their entablature. 
Each row consisted of eighty arches, 
with the same number of half-co- 
lumns. The edifice was terminated 
by a foiu'th order or attic, with pilas- 
ters and windows. The fiLrst order 
of architecture is Doric, the second 
Ionic, the third and fourth are 
Corinthian. 

The first row of arcades is marked 
with Roman figures, as they formed 
so many entrances, which, by means 
of staircases, led to the upper por- 
ticoes ; so that each person might 
easily find his place, and retire 
without confusion, at the close of 
the games. Between the arcades 
numbered XXXVIH and XXXIX 
is one of the principal entrances, 
corresponding with the middle of 
the length, which communicated 
with a room ornamented with stuc- 



658 



CENTRAL ITALY. — ROME. SECO>T) DAT. 



coes ; through this the emperor 
arrived at the podium. The form 
of this amphitheatre is oval ; its 
height 157 feet, its circumference 
outside 1,641; but to judge of its 
size it is necessary to ascend the 
first or second story of the por- 
ticoes. 

In 1811 and 1812 the walls which 
closed the arches of the first row 
were pulled down ; and the half- 
columns and piUars, which were 
half buried under ground, were 
thus uncovered. Under the present 
level were found parallel walls, some 
elliptic, some rectilinear, destined 
to support the arena. Some of these 
constructions were evidently of the 
fifth century ; and it appears from 
inscriptions that this edifice, having 
sufiered from earthquakes, was re- 
stored by Lampadius and Basilius, 
prefects of Rome in 437 and 485. 
The arena, the podium, and steps 
were repaired by the former, the 
arena and podium by Basilius. 

The arena (so called from the 
sand that covered the ground) had 
one principal entrance to the east, 
the other to the west, and formed 
an ellipsis of 285 feet long, 182 
wide, and 748 in circumference ; it 
was surromided by a wall, to pre- 
vent the beasts from rushing on 
the spectators ; by doors and pas- 
sages, closed with bars of bronze : 
through these passed the gladiators 
and animals. On the platform, 
called podium, were places destmed 
for the emperor and his family, and 
vestal virgins. Over the podium 
began the seats for the spectators, 
communicating with several doors, 
called vomitoria ; these seats were 
divided into three rows, named 
prsecinctiones and moeniana : the 
first from the arena had twenty-four 
steps, the second sixteen, the third 
ten, besides the gallery, formed of 
eighty columns which supported 
the ceiling ; the moeniana were sub- 
divided by little staircases made in 



the seats, and separated them ; the 
subdivisions were named cunei. On 
the seats there was room sufficient 
for 87,000 persons, and on the ter- 
race for 20,000. On the outside 
walls, in the cornice of the building, 
were beams covered with bronze, 
to which was attached the velarium 
or awning, that sheltered the spec- 
tators from the rays of the sun. 

The holes seen in this and in 
other monuments were originally 
filled with iron bars, that served to 
join the blocks of stone ; they 
were carried away in the middle 
ages. 

In consequence of the tradition 
that many Christians suffered mar- 
tyrdom in this arena, where they 
were condemned to be devoured by 
wild beasts, fourteen chapels with 
the mysteries of the passion of our 
Saviour were erected in the arena, 
in the middle of the last century, 
where the ceremony of the Via 
Crucis takes place, on festivals and 
on Fridays, two hours before sun- 
set. 

The Arch of Constantine, erected 
by the senate and people to Con- 
stantine, to commemorate his vic- 
tories over Maxentius and Licinius, 
is composed of three arcades, eight 
Corinthian columns, several in giaUo 
antico, one of white marble, and 
several bas-reliefs. The columns, 
a part of the entablature, the eight 
square, eight round bas-rehefs of 
the fronts, two large squares of the 
sides, and seven statues of violet 
marble, were taken from the arch 
of Trajan. 

The bas-reliefs under the grand 
arcade appear to belong to an in- 
termediate period between Trajan 
and Constantine. 

The first bas-relief on the left, 
fronting the cohseum, alludes to 
the entrance of Trajan into Rome ; 
the second to the restoration of the 
Appian way ; the third to a distri^ 
bution of provisions ; the fourth to 



ROMAN STATES. — ROME. SECOND DAT. 



659 



the dethronement of Parthomasiris, 
king of Armenia. 

The squares towards the Palatine 
and Cselian represent the battle 
against Decebalus, king of Dacia, 
and the victory gained over him by 
Trajan. 

In the fom* squares on the other 
front this emperor is seen proclaim- 
mg Parthomaspates king of the 
Parthians ; discovering a conspi- 
racy framed by Decebalus ; ha- 
ranguing his soldiers, and offering 
the sacrifice caUed suovetaurUe. 

The eighth round has reliefs on 
the small arcades, representing 
alternately hunting parties and 
sacrifices to Apollo, Mars, Sylva- 
nus, and Diana. 

The road under this arch is the 
ancient triumphal way, and leads 
to 

The Church of St Gregorio, built 
by Pope St Gregory the Great (de- 
scended from the ancient and noble 
family Anicia), who possessed a 
house on this spot. In the year 
584 he converted it into a monas- 
tery, in which he resided previously 
to his pontificate ; he also built here 
a church in honour of the apostle 
St Andrew. 

After his death another church 
was built in honour of the same 
pontifi* ; and in 1 633 Cardinal Scipio 
Borghese added the front, the por- 
tico, and the steps. 

Adjoining the church are three 
ancient chapels, raised by St Gre- 
gory, and renewed by Cardinal 
Baronius : the first is dedicated to 
St Silvia, mother of the saint ; the 
statue is by Cordieri, a pupil of 
Buonarotti; the paintings of the roof 
are by Guido Keni. In the chapel 
of St Andrew is a painting over the 
altar by Pomarancio ; on the sides 
are a St Peter and St Paul, a St 
Andrew revering the cross, by 
Guido, and the flagellation of the 
saint, by Dominichino. At the bot- 
tom of the third chapel, dedicated 
to St Barbara, is a statue of St 



Gregory, commenced by Michael 
Angelo and finished by Cordieri. 
The marble table placed in the 
middle of this chapel is the same 
from which St Gregory distributed 
food every morning to twelve 
poor pilgrims. 

The Cselian hUl is larger and 
more irregular than the others, 
having a circumference of 16,100 
feet. We learn from Tacitus that 
it was originally called Querquetu- 
lanus, being then covered with oak 
trees. Under Romulus or Tatius it 
was named Csehus, from the Etrus- 
can general Cselius Vibenus, who 
had come to the assistance of the 
Romans. After the destruction of 
Albalunga, TuUius Hostihus placed 
here the Albans, and enclosed it in 
the city. Since the devastations 
committed by Robert Guiscard, in 
1080, it has not been inhabited. 

The Church of St Giovanni and 
St Paolo was built in the fourth 
century, on the site of the house 
belonging to these two martyrs, 
who were put to death under JuMan. 
It is decorated with a portico com- 
posed of eight granite colmnns, and 
in the interior are twenty-eight 
columns of different kinds of marble. 
The pavement is a species of mosaic, 
composed of porphyry, serpentine, 
and white marble, offering one of 
the finest specimens of the Alexan- 
drine work, or opus Alexandrinum, 
so named from Alexander Severus, 
who brought it to perfection. The 
paintings of the tribune are by 
Pomarancio ; that of the fourth 
chapel, on the right, is by Benefial. 
In the garden adjoining the 
church are remains of a building 
in travertine, supposed to be the 
vivarium, or enclosure for the beasts 
destined for the games of the am- 
phitheatre ; it has two stories, one 
under ground, leading to an ancient 
quarry. 

The other remains before the 
church probably formed part of the 
"MaceUum Magnum," or of the 



660 



CENTRAL ITALY. — ROME. SECOND DAY. 



great meat and fish market which 
was on the C^han. Tradition has 
preserved to this spot the name of 
" Pesoaria Vecchia," or old fish 
market. 

From the inscriptions still exist- 
ing on the eastern front of the Arch 
of Dolabella, we learn that it was 
raised in the tenth year of the 
Christian era by the consuls Publius 
Cornelius Dolabella and Caius Ju- 
nius Silanus (flamen martialis), a 
priest of Mars. Hence this arch 
probably formed the entrance to 
the Campus Martialis on the Cselian, 
where the equiria, or equestrian 
games, were celebrated when the 
Campus Martins was inundated by 
the overflowings of the Tiber. 

It served as a support to the aque- 
duct of Nero, the remains of which 
extend to the Lateran. 

The Church of St Maria in Dom- 
nica was built on the site of the 
house that belonged to St Cyriaca, 
a Roman lady ; it is called also the 
Navicella, from a marble boat placed 
in front of it by Leo X. In the in- 
terior are eighteen fine granite and 
two porphyry columns, and the attic 
has paintings in chiaro-oscuro, by 
Julio Romano and Pierin del Vaga. 

In the space between this church 
and that of St Stephen were the 
Castra peregrina, or barracks of 
foreign soldiers, as was ascertained 
by several inscriptions found on the 
spot. They still existed in the 
fourth century, and served as a 
prison to Chodonoomar, whom Ju- 
lian defeated in 359 near Strasburg. 

Adjoining this church is the villa 
Mattel ; the two large pedestals 
covered with inscriptions were de- 
dicated by the soldiers of the fifth 
cohort to CaracaUa and Maximin. 
A small Egyptian obelisk decorates 
the grounds. 

St Stefano Rotondo has been as- 
serted by some writers to have been 
the temple of Faunus, by others of 
Bacchus, or of Claudius, but when 
we observe that its columns are of 



diflerent orders and diameters ; 
that the cross surmounts some of 
the capitals ; that it is known from 
Anastasius the librai'ian that Pope 
St Simplicius consecrated this 
church in 467, it cannot be denied 
that it is a Christian edifice of the 
fifth century ; it is called St Stefano 
Rotondo from its circular form. It 
was restored by Nicholas V ia 1452, 
who enclosed its double portico. 
The interior of this church gives an 
idea of the magnificence of ancient 
edifices. Its diameter is 133 feet, 
and it is supported by fifty-eight 
marble and granite columns, some 
Coriathian and some Ionic. 

On the walls are paintings by 
Pomarancio and Tempesta, repre- 
senting the sufferings of Christian 
martyrs under the Jews, Roman 
emperors, and Vandal kings. 

The Church of St Clement. — 
The body of the patron saint- 
one of the early successors of St 
Peter — and that of St Ignatius, 
bishop of Antioch, repose under 
the high altar. The church of St 
Clement existed m the fifth century, 
was restored by several popes, and 
Clement XI reduced it to its pre- 
sent state ; it is interesting as the 
only church m Rome that preserves 
the divisions and principal parts of 
ancient churches. 

We may observe the vestibule 
before the church in the Piazza 
di St Clemente, where is a small 
portico formed by four columns, a 
work of the eighth century ; the 
atrium, or court, surrounded with 
porticoes, leading to the entrance of 
the church ; in the middle nave is 
an enclosure in marble with the 
monogTam of John VIII, used as a 
choir in the primitive churches, 
having on each side the " ambones" 
from which the epistle and gospel 
were read to the people. The 
sanctuary- was isolated ; in this 
part are seats for the bishop who 
assisted at the ceremonies. The 
mosaic of the roof is of the thirteenth 



ROMA>' STATES. — ROME, THIRD DAT. 



665 



century. The paintings alluding 
to the crucifixion of Christ and to 
the martyrdom of St Catherine, in 
the left chapel from the entrance, 
are by Masaccio, and though in- 
jured and in part destroyed, several 
of the heads convey a great idea of 
the merit of that artist. The tomb 
of Cardinal Rovarella is a beautiful 
work of the thirteenth century. 

THIRD DAY. 

FROM THE LATERAL? TO THE 
QUIRINAIy. 

The Piazza of St John Lateran 
was thus named from Plautius 
Lateran, who resided in this quarter. 
The palace having been destroyed 
by fire was rebuilt by Sixtus V, ac- 
cording to the designs of Domenico 
Fontana. The present Pope has 
restored it. 

The Baptistery of Constantine was 
raised by Constantine in the Lateran 
palace when he erected the church ; 
it was restored in the ninth cen- 
tury, then by Gregory XTTT, and in 
1640 by L^rban VIH." An antique 
um of basalt serves as the baptis- 
mal font ; it is surmounted by a 
cupola supported by two rows of 
columns, eight of white marble and 
eight of porphyry. Above the se- 
cond row are paintings allusive to St 
John the Baptist, by Andrea Sacchi. 

The Basilic of St John Lateran 
is the first of Rome and of the Ca- 
tholic world ; from Constantine it 
is called the Constantinian ; from 
the spot on which it is built the 
Lateran ; and having been dedicated 
in the seventh century to St John 
the Baptist and to the Evangelist, 
it is also called the basilic of St John. 

The primitive temple lasted ten 
centuries, and together with the 
palace was destroyed by fire, but 
was rebuilt under Clement V, 
Pius IV, and Sixtus Y, who added 
the portico. Clement Xn raised 
the grand front, and decorated it 
with four large colunms and six 



pilasters to support the entablature, 
over which is a balustrade with 
ten colossal statues of saints and 
that of our Saviour in the middle. 
Five bronze doors lead into the 
church ; the one walled up is called 
santa, being opened only in the 
year of the jubilee. 

The interior is divided into five 
naves ; in the middle one are the 
statues of the twelve apostles. The 
Corsini chapel, built by Clement 
xn in honour of St Andrew Corsini, 
one of his ancestors, is one of the 
most magnificent in Rome. Over 
the altar, between two columns 
of verde antico, is a mosaic repre- 
senting that saint, copied from 
Guido. On the pediment are the 
figures of Innocence aud Penitence ; 
in the bas-rehef St Andrew is 
seen defending the Florentine army 
at the battle of Angheri In the 
large niche, decorated with two 
porphyry columns, is the mauso- 
leum of Clement XII. It is adorned 
Avith the superb antique urn of por- 
phyry taken from the portico of 
the Pantheon, and the bronze statue 
of this pontiff, by Maioi, who also 
executed the statue of Cardinal 
Neri Corsini opposite, and those of 
a Genius and Rehgion. 

Around the high altar are four 
granite columns supporting a Gothic 
tabernacle, where, amongst other 
relics, the heads of St Peter and St 
Paul are preserved in silver reli- 
quaries. 

The altar of the holy sacrament 
has a tabernacle ornamented with 
precious stones placed between two 
angels of gilt bronze, and four verde 
antico columns. Those in bronze 
supporting the entablature are eight 
feet seven inches in circumference, 
and are supposed to be those formed 
by Augustus of the spars of the 
Egyptian vessels captured at the 
battle of Actium. 

In the tribune is the altar of our 
Saviour with mosaics. One of the 
precious objects preserved in this 



662 



CENTRAL ITALY. — ROME, THIRD DAY. 



basilic is the table used at the last 
supper of Christ. Annexed to the 
church is a cloister of the thirteenth 
century, in which Urban VIII col- 
lected several monuments of the 
middle ages. 

Scala Santa. — When Sixtus V 
rebuilt the Lateran palace he pre- 
served the chapel and the triclinium 
of Leo III, which had not suffered 
from fire. He raised a portico ac- 
cording to the designs of Fontana, 
and placed under it the staircase 
which existed in the palace of 
Pilate at Jerusalem, on which our 
Saviour passed several times. 
Having been thus sanctified, the 
faithful now ascend it on their 
knees, and descend by the four 
lateral staircases. It consists of 
twenty-eight marble steps, so con- 
sumed by friction that it became 
necessary to cover them with wood. 

At the top of the stairs, under 
the altar of the chapel, is an ancient 
and highly- venerated image of our 
Saviour ; and in four cases made 
of cypress wood are relics which 
have given to this chapel the ap- 
pellation of Sancta Sanctorum. In 
the external niche are preserved 
the mosaics of the trichnium of 
St Leo in. 

Porta St Giovanni was substituted 
by Gregory XIII for the ancient 
Asinaria gate, thus called from the 
Asinia family, by which Totila en- 
tered Rome. 

Two miles from this gate is the 
ancient Via Latina, covered with 
ruins of tombs and other buildings. 
To one of these ruins was given the 
iiame of Temple of Female Fortune, 
celebrated for the fihal piety of 
Coriolanus ; but as the distance 
assigned by Plutarch and Valerius 
Maxunus does not agree with this 
tradition, it is in the farm at Roma 
Vecchia that this temple must be 
placed. 

Basilic of St Croce in Gerusalemme. 
— This church, one of the seven 
basilics of Rome, was built by St 



Helen, the mother of Constantine, 
and received its appellation from a 
large portion of the holy cross which 
that empress had found at Jerusa- 
lem and deposited here. 

The three naves are separated 
partly by eight large columns of 
Egyptian granite. The "baldac- 
chino " is supported by four columns 
of breccia coraUina ; and under the 
altar, in an antique basaltic urn, 
are the bodies of St Cesarius and 
St Anastasius. On the roof of the 
tribune are some fine frescoes by 
Pinturicchio ; those in the sub- 
terranean chapel of St Helen are by 
Pomarancio, and the mosaics are by 
Baldassare Peruzzi. 

Near the church are ruins, now 
transformed into cellars, formerly 
supposed to have formed part of 
the temple of Venus and Cupid in 
the Variani gardens, which belonged 
to Varianus MarceUus, the father 
of Heliogabalus. The neighbour- 
ing aqueduct of Claudius brought 
the Aqua Claudia to the C sell an 
and Palatine hills, and under Six- 
tus V served as a support to the 
aqueduct of the Aqua Felice. 

In the villa Conti remains of the 
reservoir of the thermas of St Helen 
have been discovered, and their 
authenticity is established by in- 
scriptions found on the spot. 

Anfiteatro Castrense. — This build- 
ing, in which the military festivals 
called castrensic games were cele- 
brated, consisted of two stories, and 
the exterior was decorated with' 
Corinthian pilasters and half co- 
lumns. It was enclosed within the 
walls by Honorius. 

Passing under the Neronian 
arches of an elegant construction, 
we arrive at the 

Porta Maggiore. — As it was cus- 
tomary among the ancients to give 
an imposmg aspect to those parts 
of the aqueducts which crossed the 
pubUc roads, the Emperor Claudius 
raised at this spot a monument in 
the form of a triumphal arch, which 



R03IAN STATES. — ROME. THIRD DAT. 



663 



may be considered as one of the 
most magnificent of ancient Kome. 
It is built of enormous blocks of 
travertine, and is composed of two 
large and three smaU arches with 
columns. 

In clearing away the construc- 
tions raised on it in the middle ages 
a sepulchre was found in a tower 
bearing an inscription to Marcus 
Virgilius Eurysaces, a rich baker, 
in the latter times of the repubHc. 
Under Honorius this monument 
was destined to contain gates of 
the city, and being composed of 
two arches one became the Labican, 
the other the Prenestine gate ; the 
former has long since disappeared. 

Beyond the gate in the city waUs 
on the left the canals of the aquse 
Julia Tepula and Marcia are still 
visible, and at a short distance that 
of the Anio vetus sunk in the 
ground. 

Beyond the gate the Labican way 
on the right follows the direction of 
Labicum, a city of Latium, men- 
tioned by Livy and other ancient 
writers ; it is now the village of 
Colonna. At the distance of a mile 
and a hah" from the walls are the 
ruins of the aqueduct of Alexa,nder 
Severus ; and half a mile further 
on those of the mausoleum of St 
Helen, in which is a small church 
dedicated to the martyrs St Peter 
and St MarceUinus, who were buried 
in its catacombs. 

Several funeral inscriptions of 
the "equites singulares" having 
been found here, it may be presumed 
that the burying ground of this 
select body of cavalry was in this 
direction. Some fragments of these 
inscriptions are infixed on the walls 
of the church. 

The Via Prenestina led to Gabii 
and to Praeneste. The extensive 
ruins spread over the ground about 
three miles from the walls are those 
of the Gordian viUa, which con- 
tained porticoes and thermae. The 
remains of two halls and of a 



temple are weU preserved. In the 
interior of the ceUa are traces of 
old paintings, which indicate that 
in the middle ages this temple was 
transformed into a church. 

The ruins of Minerva Medica 
have been considered by antiquaries 
as the temple of Minerva ; the 
statue of that goddess, now in the 
Vatican, having been foimd here, 
though the form of the building is 
that of a large hall, belonging pro- 
bably to some ancient villa. The 
building is decagonal, the distance 
between the angles is twenty -two 
and a half feet, and the circumfer- 
ence 220. The statues discovered 
on the spot are those of Esculapius, 
Pomona, Adonis, Venus, a Paun, 
Hercules, and Antiuous. 

Between this edifice and the 
Porta Maggiore are two colum- 
baria, one built by Lucius Arrun- 
tins, consul in the sixth year of our 
era, to receive the ashes of his 
slaves. 

On the right are the remains of 
an ancient fountain generally called 
the 

Trophies of Marius, on account 
of the two marble trophies formerly 
placed on the sides as ornaments, 
and transferred under Sixtus V to 
the balustrade of the capitol ; in 
examining the style of these trophies 
and of the building, it is evident 
that they are of the tune of Septimius 
Severus, who restored the aqueducts 
of the city. 

The Church of St Bibiana was 
consecrated in 470, in honour of 
Bibiana ; it was restored by Hono- 
rius HI in 1224, and by Urban VIII 
in 1625, who raised the front on the 
designs of Bernini. It is composed 
of three naves, divided by antique 
granite columns ; the frescoes of 
the middle nave allude to the his- 
tory of St Bibiana, whose statue at 
the" high altar is considered to be 
one of the best works of Bernini. 

Under the altar is an antique 
urn of oriental alabaster, seventeen 



664 



CENTRAL ITALY — ROSEB. THIKD DAY. 



feet in circumference, containing 
the bodies of this saint, of St De- 
metria, and of their mother St Daph- 
rose. 

The Church of St Eusebius is 
very ancient ; the roof was painted 
by Mengs, and some frescoes of 
merit hare been found on the walls 
of the subterranean chambers ex- 
isting in the garden. 

Porta St Lorenzo, originally called 
Tiburtine, the road which passes 
under it being that of Tibur or Ti- 
voli. It was built by Honorius in 
402, and supports the ancient aque- 
duct of the Julian Marcian and 
Tepulan waters. 

St Lorenzo out of the Walls. — This 
basilic, built by Constantine in 330, 
was restored by several popes, par- 
ticularly by Honorius III, who 
added the portico in 1216, and used 
it for the coronation of the Count of 
Auxerre, Pierre de Courtenay, as 
Latin Emperor of Constantinople. 

The portico has six Ionic columns 
of different diameters ; the paintings 
relate to the history of Honorius, 
of St Laurence, and St Stephen. 

The interior has three naves, di- 
vided by twenty-two Ionic columns 
of granite; near the entrance is an 
antique sarcophagus with a bas-relief 
representing a Roman marriage. In 
the middle nave are two marble " am- 
bones " used for singing the gospel 
and epistle. In the tribune is the 
ancient pontifical seat inlaid with 
sundry stones : this tribune, the pri- 
mitive basilic, has twelve fluted co- 
lumns of violet marble, the greater 
part of which is under ground ; two 
of the capitals have trophies instead 
of acanthus leaves. Over this en- 
tablature are twelve smaller co- 
lumns, two of green porphyry. 
The high altar is ornamented with 
four of red porphyry supporting a 
marble baldacchino, under which 
repose the bodies of St Laurence 
and the protomartyr St Stephen. 
Behind the tribune is the sarcopha- 
gus which contained the remains of 



St Zosimus, pope in 418, having bas- 
reliefs representing Genii gathering 
grapes, a subject fi-equently seen on 
the early Christian monuments. 

The subterranean chapel in the 
left nave is celebrated for the privi- 
leges and indulgences granted by 
different popes to those who visit it. 

The Arch of Gallienus, situated 
near St Eusebius, was dedicated to 
Gallienus about the year 260 : it is 
formed of large travertine blocks, 
and is in good preservation. 

The Church of St Vitus was built 
near the ancient " Macellum Livia- 
num," which was rebuilt by Livia, 
the wife of Augustus : near it is a 
monument in Egyptian granite, with 
a crucifix and a figure of the 
Virgin, raised by Clement VIII 
in 1595 to commemorate the abso- 
lution given to Henry IV of 
France. 

On the piazza of St Maria Mag- 
giore is a column of the Corinthian 
order, 58|- feet high, including the 
base and capital, and nineteen feet 
three inches in circumference ; it be- 
longed to the basilic of Constantine. 
Paul V placed on the summit the 
bronze statue of the Virgin. 

St Maria Maggiore. — This church 
is situated on the summit of the 
Esquiline called Cispius, near the 
ancient temple of Juno Lucina; it 
was built in 352 in consequence of a 
vision of St Liberius and John the 
Patrician, which was confirmed on 
the following day by a fall of snow 
on the 5th August, a miracle which 
gave rise to the festival still cele- 
brated on that day by the cliurch. 
The snow covered the space which 
the building was destined to occu- 
py, and for this reason it was then 
called " St Maria ad Nives," but now 
St Maria Maggiore, as it is the 
principal church dedicated to the 
Madonna. It is one of the seven 
basilics of Rome and of the four 
which have a holy gate for the 
Jubilee. 

In 432 Pope Sixtus HI enlarged 



SOMAN STATES. — ROilE. THIRD DAY. 



665 



this church, which was restored aud 
enriched by several popes, and par- 
ticularly by Benedict XtV. The 
front has two rows of columns, one 
Doric, the other Corinthian; on the 
lower portico, supported by eight 
granite colums, are bas-reliefs, and ; 
a statue of Philip IV, King of Spain. 
From the central balcony of the 
upper portico the sovereign pontiff 
gives his blessing to the people ; 
the mosaics are by Gaddo Gaddi, a 
contemporary of Cimabue. 

The interior is composed of three 
naves separated by thirty-six Ionic 
marble columns, taken from the 
temple of Juno. 

The chapel of the holy sacra- 
ment, built by Sixtus V on the 
designs of Fontana, is covered with 
marble, and decorated with paint- 
ings and Corinthian pilasters. On 
the right is the tomb of Sixtus V, 
adorned with his statue, four verde 
antico columns, bas-reliefs, and the 
statues of St Francis and St 
Anthony of Padua : on the left is 
that of St Pius V, whose body is 
preserved in a verde antico urn, 
adorned with gilt bronze. In the 
middle of the chapel is the altar of 
the holy sacrament, with a magnifi 
cent tabernacle, supported by four 
angels of gilt bronze. 

The high altar is isolated; it con- 
sists of a grand porphyry urn 
covered, and a marble slab with 
four bronze gilt angels at the cor- 
ners ; above it is a rich baldacchino 
supported by four porphyry columns, 
and surmounted by six marble 
figures of angels. The mosaics of 
the grand arcade allude to subjects 
of the Old Testament, and of the 
life of the Virgin. 

The sumptuous chapel of the Bor- 
ghese family, erected by Paul V on 
the designs of Flaminius Ponzio, 
contains various species of marble 
and frescoes. On the left is the tomb 
of that pontiff, and on the right 
that of Clement VIII, both decorated 
with statues, bas-reliefs, and co- 



lumns. The statues of St Basil, of 
David, of Aaron, and St Bernard 
are works of Cordieri. The altar 
of the Virgin is adorned with 
four fluted columns of oriental 
jasper ; the base and capitals are of 
gilt bronze ; the frieze and the pedes- 
tals of the columns are of agate. 
The image of the Madonna, said to 
have been painted by St Luke, is 
enriched with lapis lazuli, and 
encircled with precious stones. The 
bas-relief of the entablature repre- 
sents the miraculous fall of snow. 
The frescoes over the altar are by 
the Cavalier d' A.rpino, those of the 
cupola by Civoli, the paintings near 
the windows and arcades over the 
tombs are among the best composi- 
tions of Guido. 

St Prassede. — It is related that 
at the solicitation of St Praxedes 
St Pius I erected, in 160, an oratory 
in the thermae of Novatus, her bro- 
ther, on the spot formerly called 
"Vicus Lateritius," to which the 
Christians retired in times of perse- 
cution. The church, with its three 
naves, divided by sixteen granite 
columns, was built by Pascal I in 
822. At the high altar are four 
porphyry columns; the steps leading 
to the tribune are of rosso antico, 
the largest blocks known. A part 
of a column in a chapel to the right 
isinhighvereration ; it was brought 
from Jerusalem, and is supposed to 
be the same to which our Saviour 
was bound during his flagellation. 
A painting of this subject by Julio 
Romano is in the sacristy. 

St Martino. — A church was built 
on this spot by St Silvester at the 
time of Constantine, and over it the 
present church was erected in the 
year 500 ; this was embellished in 
1650, and at the end of the last cen- 
tury. The three naves are divided 
by twenty-four antique columns of 
different qualities of marble. The 
landscapes painted on the walls are 
by Caspar, and the figures by Ni- 
cholas Poussin; the chapel of the 



6e& 



CENTRAL ITALY. — EOME. THIRD DAT. 



Virgin near the high altar is 
covered with precious marble. 

Below the steps under the high 
altar, in a subterranean chamber 
designed by Pietro da Cortona and 
surrounded with columns, are the 
tombs of St Silvester and St Martin ; 
under this chamber is the church 
with its mosaic pavement built by 
St Silvester on the ruins of an 
edifice of the second century. A 
council is said to have been held 
here by St Silvester in 324. 

On the left of St Martin's are 
the church of St Lucia in Selci, 
near the celebrated quarter of an- 
cient Rome called the " Suburra," 
and the " Vicus Patricius," or the 
street assigned to the Patricians by 
Servius Tullius. 

StPudenziana. — This church, after 
having been repaired at sundry pe- 
riods, was embellished and reduced 
to its present state by Cardinal 
Caetani in 1598 The naves are 
separated by fourteen antique co- 
lumns. 

The apostle St Peter is said to 
hare lodged in the house of Pudens, 
a senator, on which this church 
was built; the cupola was painted 
by Pomarancio. In the chapel on 
the right is the same altar on which 
St Peter is said to have celebrated 
mass. The statue of our Saviour 
giving the keys to St Peter is by 
Giacomo della Porta. The Caetani 
chapel is rich in marble and fine 
lumachella columns. 

Adjoining the Bambin Gesu is 
a monastery for the education of 
young girls. Following the Via 
St Francesco di Paolo, the ancient 
*' Vicus Sceleratus," where TuUia 
drove her car over the dead body 
of Servius Tullius, her father, we 
arrive at the church of 

St Pietro in Vincoli, built by 
Eudoxia, the wife of Valentinian 
III, Emperor of the West, to pre- 
serve the chains which, under Herod, 
bound St Peter in tlie prison of 
Jerusalem ; it is for this reason 



called " in Vincoli," It was restored 
in 1503, and embellished in 1705. 

Twenty Doric fluted columns of 
Greek marble, seven feet in cir- 
cumference, divide the naves ; two 
of granite support the middle ar- 
cade. On the first altar is a paint- 
ing of St Augustin by Guercino ; 
the tombs of cardinals Margetti and 
Agucci are from the designs of 
Dominichino, who painted the 
portraits and the St Peter preserved 
in the sacristy. 

The tomb of Julius II is from the 
designs of Michael Angelo, who 
placed in the middle his celebrated 
statue of Moses, considered as one 
of the master-pieces of modern 
sculpture. It is of colossal size, and 
represents Moses with the tables of 
the law under his right arm casting 
a reproachful look on the people 
whose faith seems to be wavering. 
The four statues in the niches are 
by Raphael de Montelupo, a pupil 
of Buonarotti. 

The St Margaret over the fol- 
lowing altar is one of the b6st 
works of Guercino ; the tribune was 
painted by Giacomo Coppi, a Flo- 
rentine; the St Sebastian in mosaic 
is of the seventh century ; over 
the last altar is a Piety, by Pomar- 
ancio. 

Therm(R of Titus. — The thermae 
were orignally established at Rome 
for the purpose of bathing, but in 
the course of time these edifices 
became places of luxury, surrounded 
with porticos, gardens, possessing 
libraries, saloons, and places des- 
tined for athletic games, which were 
viewed from a kind of theatre. 
Agrippa was the first who raised 
this kind of building for the public. 
His example was followed by Nero 
and Titus; those of Agrippa and of 
Nero were in the Campus Martins. 
Titus selected the palace and gar- 
dens of Nero. Having been enlarged 
under Domitian, Trajan, andAdrian, 
these thermse extended from the 
coliseum to the church of St Mar- 



BQ]!tfAN STATES. — HOME. THIRD DAT. 



m 



tino. They were near the palace 
of Titus, among the ruins of which 
was found, under Julius II, the 
celebrated group of the Laocoon. 

This edifice is now destroyed, 
but some remains convey an idea 
of its magnificence; the plan of it 
is preserved in the fragments of 
the plan of Eome at the Capitol. 
The subterraneous chambers, be- 
longing for the most part to the 
house of Eero, over which Titus 
built his thermae, are covered with 
arabesque paintings, which from 
the vivacity of the colours, the 
variety and accuracy of the design, 
excite the admiration of artists. 
It is supposed that Raphael availed 
himself of these frescoes in painting 
the Loggie of the Vatican. 

Sette Sale. — This building con- 
sisted of two galleries, the lower 
one is now under ground ; the 
upper story had nine corridors, 
serving as a piscina or reservoir of 
water, built before the time of Titus. 
The waUs are of a strong construc- 
tion, having a plaster which resists 
the action of water, called by Vitru- 
vius " opus signinum;" it is com- 
posed of fragments of baked earth 
mixed with a fine cement. The 
doors are situated alternately in 
places where they could not dimin- 
ish the strength of the walls, and 
are so disposed that from four of 
the doors the eight that remain 
are visible. The present corridor 
is thirty-seven feet long, twelve 
wide, and eight high. 

Beyond the church of St Maria 
in Oarinis, so called from the Ca- 
rinas, a quarter of ancient Rome so 
named from its resemblance to the 
keels of ships, is the Torre de' 
Conti, built on the ruins of the tem- 
ple of the Earth, near which was 
the residence of Pompey the Great. 

Forum Palladium. — The Emperor 
Domitian having commenced his 
forum to the left of those of Caesar 
and Augustus, erected a temple in 
honour of Pallas, and named his 



forum Palladium ; it was afterwards 
called the forum of Nerva. The 
two Corinthian columns, three parts 
under ground, called the Colonnacce, 
are nine and a half feet in circum- 
ference and twenty-nine in height. 
They support a richly-worked en- 
tablature. The bas-reliefs on the 
frieze representing the arts of Pallas 
are finely composed and executed. 
In the middle of the attic is the 
statue of Pallas. 

Forum of Nerva. — This forum, 
decorated with a temple to Nerva 
raised hy Trajan, is supported by a 
large wall, composed of large blocks 
of peperino stone united by hooks 
of hard wood. The style of this 
construction, so very different from 
that adopted in the forum, leads to 
the presumption that it is anterior 
to Nerva by many centuries ; of 
the different arches which led to 
this forum, one only remains, called 
Arco de' Pantani, from the marshy 
nature of the soil. 

Adjoining this arch is the 

Temple of Nerva — One of the 
finest edifices of Rome for its colos- 
sal dimensions, the beauty of the 
architecture and the richness of its 
ornaments. All that remains of it 
is a part of the portico, consisting 
of three columns sixteen and a half 
feet in circumference and forty -five 
in height, and a pilaster supporting 
the architrave, which is finely orna-» 
mented. 

The front of the temple was ex- 
posed to the west, and, according to 
Palladio, had eight columns, and 
the side porticoes nine, exclusive of 
the pilaster next the wall. The 
excavations of 1821 have proved 
that the lateral porticoes rested on 
a podium placed above three ele- 
vated steps. 

Opposite this building were ruins 
belonging to the temple of Pallas, 
which in the seventeenth century 
were employed in the construction 
of other buildings. 

Near the church of St Maria in 



668 



CENTRAL ITALY. — HOME. THIRD DAT. 



Campo, under the Quirinal, are re- 
mains of a building, said to be the 
thermae of Paulus Eniilius, though 
more probably they may date from 
Trajan, as the construction re- 
sembles by its regularity the 
monuments erected under that 
emperor. 

Forum of Trajan. — This column, 
the finest monument of the kind 
remaining of ancient times, was de- 
dicated to Trajan by the Roman 
senate and people after the con- 
quest of Dacia. It is of the Doric 
order, and is composed of thirty- 
four blocks of Carrara marble, 
placed one over the other, and united 
by bronze hooks. The pedestal is 
formed of eight blocks, the column 
of twenty-three, the capital and 
pedestal of the statue of one. The 
height from the base to the top of 
the statue is 132 feet. Dividing it 
into separate parts, the grand pe- 
destal is fourteen feet high, its base 
three ; the column, its base and capi- 
tal, ninety; the pedestal of the statue 
fourteen, and the statue eleven. 
The lower diameter is eleven feet 
two inches, the upper ten feet. In 
the interior of the column is a 
winding staircase of 182 steps. 
On the summit formerly stood a 
bronze gilt statue of Trajan, which 
Constantius II sent to Constanti- 
nople in the year 663. Sextus V 
replaced it by the statue of 8t 
Peter. The large pedestal is cover- 
ed with arms, eagles, and garlands 
of oak leaves ; the whole of excel- 
lent sculpture and composition. 

On the bas-reliefs, representing 
the two campaigns of Trajan 
against Decebalus, king of Dacia, 
who was finally vanquished in 101, 
are more than 2,500 male figures, 
independently of horses, arms, ma- 
chines of war, military ensigi s, and 
trophies, each figure being about 
two feet high. These bas-reliefs 
have always been considered as 
master-pieces of sculpture, and 
have served as models to Raphael, 



to Giulio Romano, and other great 
artists. 

The magnificence of the column 
corresponds with that of the forum, 
constructed by ApoUodorus of Da- 
mascus. It was surrounded with 
porticoes of columns, supporting 
statues and bronze ornaments, with 
a basalic, a temple, and the cele- 
brated Ulpian library. It was 
found in the last excavations that 
the column was placed in the cen- 
tre of a small oblong court, seventy- 
six feet in length and fifty-six in 
width, paved with marble, having 
to the south the wall of the basilic, 
and on the three other sides a por- 
tico, composed of a double row of 
columns. The library was divided 
into two parts, one for Greek, the 
other for Latin works, which were 
afterwards removed by Diocletian 
to his thermae: remains of it have 
been found behind the two small 
porticoes, near the columns. The 
basilic followed the direction from 
east to west, having its principal 
entrance to the south ; the interior 
was divided by four rows of co- 
lumns into five naves, the pave- 
ment was composed of giallo antico 
and violet marble, the walls were 
covered with white marble, the roof 
with gilt bronze, and the five en- 
trance steps of large blocks of giallo 
antico ; fragments of the steps, the 
pavement, and of the granite co- 
lumns belonging to the interior 
peristyle are still visible. Towards 
the column, the basilic was closed 
by a wall; it had three entrances, 
each decorated with a portico of 
four columns supporting an attic; 
on the terrace above were a trium- 
phal car and statues; a triumphal 
arch led to the great square, situat- 
ed to the south, and surrounded 
with sumptuous porticoes. It is 
probable that a similar space ex- 
isted at the opposite extremity 
behind the temple, so that what 
remains at present may be esti- 
mated at about one-third of the 



HOMAN STATES. — ROME. FOtJUTH DAT. 



669 



surface of the forum, of which the 
whole length was 2,000, and the 
breadth 650 feet. 

Amongst the equestrian statues 
raised on the spot was that of 
Trajan, in gilt bronze, placed before 
the temple, which particularly at- 
tracted the attention of the Emperor 
Constantius, when he visited Eome 
in the year 354. 

The injuries of time and the 
depredations of man ruined all 
these magnificent edifices, which 
were still entire in the year 600, 
even after the ravages of the Goths 
and Vandals. The fragments and 
inscriptions found in the last exca- 
vations are aflSxed to the walls. 

St Maria di Loreto — This church, 
of octangular form, with a double 
cupola, was designed by Sangallo. 
Over the altar of the second chapel 
is a fine statue of St Susanna, by 
Quesnoy, the Fleming, and over 
the high altar is a painting by 
Pietro Perugino. 

The Colonna Palace was com- 
menced by Martin V, and finished by 
the princes of the Colonna family. 

The apartment on the ground 
floor was painted by Gaspar Pous- 
sin, Tempesta, Pomarancio, the 
Cavalier d'Arpino, &c. On the 
staircase is a colossal statue of a 
captive king, and a bas-relief in 
porphyry of the head of Medusa. 

In the hall adjoining the gallery 
are portraits by Titian, one of 
Luther and one of Calving others 
by Tintoretto ; a Guardian Angel 
and a Madonna, by Guercino ; two 
PaulVeronese and the Eesuscitation 
of Lazarus, by Parmigianino. 

The vestibule of the gallery con- 
tains several Landscapes by Poussin 
and Orizzonte, by Berghem, Svane- 
velt, Breughel, and Paul Brill; 
the gallery, an Assumption, by 
Rubens ; several portraits in the 
same picture by Giorgione; a St 
Francis and St Sebastian, by Guido; 
two St John, by Salvator Rosa; the 
Martyrdom of St Agnes, by Guer-^ 



cino; a Magdalen of Annibal Ca- 
racci; a Holy Family with St Lucia, 
by Titian ; the Shepherds sleeping, 
by Nicholas Poussin ; the Peace 
between the Romans and Sabines, 
by Dominico Ghirlandajo. 

The palace communicates with 
the gardens on the declivity of the 
Quirinal, where two large fragments 
of a frontispiece of fine workman- 
ship constitute the ruins of the 
temple of the Sun, or of Serapis. 

Santi ApostolL — This church, 
founded by Constantino, was re- 
newed in the interior at the begin- 
ning of the last century, on the 
design of F. Fontana. An antique 
bas-relief in the portico represents 
an eagle grasping a laurel crown. 
Opposite is the monument of Vol- 
pato, by Canova. 

On the roof of the middle nave 
Boccaccio has painted the Triumph 
of the Franciscan Order. The 
chapels are ornamented with pic- 
tures and columns; over the high 
altar is the Martyrdom of St Philip 
and St James, by Muratori. 

The tomb of Clement XIV, with 
the statues of Clemency and Tem- 
perance, is a celebrated work of 
Canova. 

The chapel of St Francis was 
painted by Chiari. The Descent 
from the Cross, over the altar of 
the last chapel, by Francesco 
Manno. 

In the environs of this church 
were the " Forum Suarium," the 
street of the " Cornelians," and the 
grand temple of the Sun, built bv 
Aurelian. 

FOURTH DAY. 

FROM THE QUIKINAL TO THE 
MAUSOLEUM. 

The Quirinal. — ^In ancient times 
this hiU was named Agonalius or 
Agonius, from the Sabine word 
Agon, a hill ; and subsequently 
Quirinal, from the temple of Quiri- 
nus, or from Cures, a Sabine city. 

M 



670 



CENTRAL ITALY.— ROME. FOURTH DAT. 



Its circumference is 15,700 feet, and 
its height above the level of the 
sea 320. 

The present name of Monte 
Cavallo is derived from the groups 
of colossal men and horses said to 
represent Castor and PoUux, which 
may be considered as master-pieces 
of Grecian sculpture, though of 
authors unknown ; the inscriptions 
Phidias and Praxiteles not being 
anterior to the middle ages, these 
groups cannot be attributed to 
those celebrated artists. Pius VI 
placed between them the obelisk 
found near the mausoleum of Au- 
gustus, and Pius VII transferred 
here from the forum the large 
basin of oriental granite now used 
as a fountain. 

Papal Palace. — This palace was 
bmlt by Gregory Xllt in 1574, 
on the ruins of the thermae of Con- 
stantine, and was successively en- 
larged under Sistus V, and several 
other popes ; Pius VII completed 
its embeUishments. 

Near the chapel is an extensive 
haU paved with marbles of various 
kinds ; the roof, richly sculptured, 
has a frieze painted by Lanfranc 
and Saraceni the Venetian. 

Over the chapel door is a bas- 
relief by Landini, representing 
Jesus washing the feet of the Apos- 
tles. The apartments are decorated 
with a St Peter and St Paul by Fra 
Bartolomeo ; a St Jerome, by Spag- 
noletto ; aResurrection, by Vandyke ; 
a Madonna of Guido ; David and 
Saul, by Guercino. The frescoes of 
the chapel allusive to the life of the 
Virgin, and the Annunciation 
over the altar, are beautiful compo- 
sitions of Guido. 

In the other room are excellent 
works of modern artists : the friezes 
of FineUi representing the Triumph 
of Trajan, and that of Alexander by 
Thorwaldsen. 

Palazzo Bospigliosi. — This palace 
was built by Cardinal Scipio Bor- 
ghese on the ruins of the Constan- 



tinian therms, and is now possessed 
by the Rospigliosi family. 

The pavilion of the garden is 
decorated with the Aurora of Guido, 
representing Apollo, under the 
figure of the Sun, seated in a car 
drawn by four horses abreast, and 
surrounded by seven nymphs allu- 
sive to the hours. The grandeur 
of the composition, the perfection 
of the design and colouring, have 
given this painting a high celebrity. 
The friezes round the room, re- 
presenting the Triumph of Love and 
the Triumphal Pomp of Virtue, are 
by Tempesta, the landscapes by 
Paul BriU. 

In the adjoining chambers are : 
a fine antique bust of Scipio Afri- 
canus , Adam and Eve in Para- 
dise ; the Triumph of David, by 
Dominichino ; the Apostles, by 
Rubens ; Sampson overturning 
the Temple, by Ludovico Caracci, 
and several ancient busts. 

*S^^ Silvester — This church con- 
tains several paintings of merit. In 
the second chapel a Giacomo 
Palma ; an Assumption, by Scipio 
Gaetani ; the David dancing be- 
fore the Ark, Judith showing the 
head of Holofernes to the Bethu- 
lians, Esther fainting in the presence 
of Assuerus, the Queen of Sheba 
seated on the throne with Solomon, 
are by Dominichino. The side walls 
of one of the chapels were painted by 
Mathurin and Polydor Caravaggio, 
thereof by the Cavaher d'Arpino. 

The Villa Aldobrandini, situated 
near this church, possesses several 
statues and other ancient monu- 
ments. 

In the vicinity of this villa are 
the churches of St Dominick and 
Sixtus and of St Catherine of 
Sienne,both decorated with pilasters 
of the Corinthian order. In the 
court of the monastery, attached to 
this latter church, a brick tower 
was raised in the year 1210, by 
Pandolfo Suburra, the senator of 
Rome. The tales respecting this 



ROMAN STATES.— EOME. POURTH DAY. 



67t 



tower, that it was built by Augus- 
tus, and that Nero viewed from it 
the burning of Rome, are inven- 
tions of the middle ages. 

The churches of St Agatha and St 
Bernardino of Sienne are on the 
declivity of the hiU leading to the 
valley which separates the Quirinal 
from the Viminal, called in an- 
cient times "Vallis Quirinalis," 
from the temple dedicated to Romu- 
lus under the name of Quirinus. 

Opposite the church of St Vitalis, 
fomided in 416, are substructions of 
the Viminal hill : on this are 
now placed the church of St Lo- 
renzo in Paneperna, and barracks. 

St Denis. — This church and 
monastery, built in 1619, are now 
occupied by French nuns following 
the rule of St Basil ; they take 
charge of the education of young 
females. Though plain, the archi- 
tecture is remarkable for its ele- 
gance. Over an altar on the 
left is a miraculous image of the 
Virgm, which belonged to St Gre- 
gory the Great. The pictures of 
St Denis and St Louis are by 
Lebnm ; the " Ecce homo " by 
Luca Giordano. 

The Quattro Fontane, so called 
from the fountains at the four 
angles, offer views of the obeUsks 
of St Maria Maggiore, of Monte Ca- 
vaUo, and of the Trinita de' Monti. 

St Charles. — The front has two 
orders of columns, and the court of 
the house adjoining has two por- 
ticoes, one above the other, sup- 
ported by twenty -four columns. 

St Andrew's, bmlt in 1678 for 
the noviciate of the Jesuits, by 
Prince Pamphili, and embellished 
with marble columns and paintings. 
In the chapel of St Francis Xavier 
are three pictures by Boccaccio. 
The high altar piece is the Cruci- 
fixion of St Andrew, by Borgog- 
none. Under the altar of the fol- 
lowing chapel, the body of St Stan- 
islaus is preserved in an urn of lapis 
lazuli. 



St Bernardo. — In 1598 the Coun- 
tess Sforza changed into a church 
one of the two round buildings 
situated at the southern angles 
of the thermae of Diocletian, sup- 
posed to have been the tepidaria 
or calidaria, or rooms for tepid or 
hot baths. Some ruins of the 
theatre are stiU seen in the garden 
behind the church. 

The Fountain of Aqua Felice, 
erected by Sixtus V on the designs 
of Dominico Fontana, is divided 
into three arcades by two breccia 
and two granite Ionic columns. 

The central arcade contains the 
colossal statue of Moses striking 
the rock ; the lateral arcades, bas- 
reliefs of Aaron conducting the 
Hebrews to the miraculous spring, 
and Gideon choosing soldiers to 
open the passage of the river. An 
abundant supply of water falls 
into three marble basins. 

The Thermce of Diocletian, con- 
structed by the emperors Diocletian 
and Maximian, cover a space of 
1,069 feet in length and breadth, or 
an enclosure of 4,276 feet in circuit. 
These immense thermae, which ac- 
cording to Olympiodorus afforded 
sufl&cient room for 3,200 bathers, 
were of a square form, closed at 
each of the south-west angles by 
circular halls, which stUl exist, one 
in the church of St Bernard, the 
other in a granary near the en- 
trance of the villa Massimi. De- 
corated with porticoes, halls, groves, 
and walks, these thermae also con- 
tained schools of science and of 
athletic exercises, and a magnificent 
hall called the Pinacotheca, which 
has been transformed into the 
church of 

St Maria. Degli Angeli. — The 
Pinacotheca, or principal hall of 
Diocletian's baths, was changed 
into a church by order of Pius IV, 
under the direction of Michael 
Augelo Buonarotti, who reduced it 
to the form of a Greek cross, and 
rendered it one of the finest churches 



672 



CENTRAL ITALY. — ROME. FOURTH DAY. 



in Rome. The pavement having 
been raised six feet, on account of 
the humidity of the spot, the bases 
and a part of the granite columns 
are under ground. 

In 1740, Vanvitelli reduced the 
church to its present state ; he 
placed the altar of the blessed 
Nicholas Albergatti on the spot 
which had before been occupied by 
the grand entrance ; the lateral 
door became the chief entrance, and 
he added eight brick columns co- 
vered with stucco to the nave sup- 
ported by eight of real granite. 

The present entrance is by a 
round vestibule of the same size as 
the church of St Bernard, and was 
used formerly as one of the haUs. 
At the sides are the tombs of Carlo 
Maratta and of Salvator Rosa, of 
cardinals Parisio and Alciato. On 
the right is the chapel St Bruno, 
whose statue by Houdon is near the 
entrance to the transversal nave, 
which is supported by eight granite 
columns sixteen feet in circumfe- 
rence and forty-five in height, 
comprising their base and capi- 
tal. The church is 336 feet long, 
seventy- four wide, and eighty-four 
in height. 

The first picture on the right 
represents the Crucifixion of St 
Peter, by RiccioUni; the second, the 
fall of Simon the Magician : it is a 
copy of the original of Vanni exist- 
ing at St Peter's. The altar piece 
of the following chapel is by Gra- 
ziani, the side paintings by Trevi- 
sani, and those of the roof by Bic- 
cherai and Mazzetti. The St Peter 
restoring Tabitha to life is a copy 
from Baglioni, the painting near it 
is an original by Mutian. 

In the nave of the high altar four 
large paintings cover the side walls ; 
. the first on the right, representing 
the Presentation of the Virgin at 
the Temple, is by Romanelli ; the 
second, the Martyrdom of St Sebas- 
tian, is a classic work of Domini- 
chino ; the Baptism of Christ is by 



Carlo Maratta, and the Chastise- 
ment of Annanias and Sapphira by 
Pomarancio. 

Returning to the transversal nave, 
the painting of the Conception is 
by Bianchi ; the St Bruno of the 
chapel by Odazzi, the side pictures 
by Trevisani, and the Evangelists 
by Procaccini. The faU of Simon 
Magus by Battoni, and the St Ba- 
siUus of Subleyras, adorn the oppo- 
site wall. In 1701 the meridian 
was traced in this church, with the 
signs of the zodiac composed of va- 
riegated marbles. 

The cloister, adorned with a 
square portico supported by 100 
travertine columns, was designed by 
Michael Angelo. 

Behind the baths was the "agger" 
of Servius Tullius, or the artificial 
rampart of earth defended by square 
blocks of volcanic stone and a deep 
ditch. Beyond the rampart are 
remains of the Prsetorian camp. 
Enclosed in the vineyard of the 
Jesuits named Macao, the external 
part of it is easily distinguished in 
following the line of walls to the 
right of Porta Pia. These ruins 
convey an accurate idea of the form 
of Roman camps. 

Si Maria Bella Vittoria.— The 
interior of this church, built by Paul 
V in 1605, is enriched with Sicilian 
jasper, and contains a St Francis 
in the second chapel, with paintings 
on the side walls by Dominichino. 
In the sumptuous chapel of St The- 
resa is the statue of the saint in an ' 
ecstacy of divine love. The Holy 
Trinity, over the altar of the fol- 
lowing chapel, is by Guercino, the 
Crucifixion by Guido Reni. 

Porta Pia. — This gate replaced, 
in 1364, the Nomentana gate, so 
called from Nomentum, a Latin 
town situated twelve miles from 
Rome. Its present name is derived 
from Pius IV, who ornamented the 
internal part on the designs of Mi- 
chael Angelo. Near the original 
gate is the tomb of Quintus Hate- 



EOMAN STATES. — ROME. FOURTH DAY. 



673 



rius, the praetor, a personage of note 
at the time of Tiberius. 

On the right of the road are the 
villa Patrizi, in a delightful situa- 
tion ; Lucernari, formerly Bolog- 
netti ; Massimi, and Torlonia. The 
latter, when the embellishments now 
in progress are completed, will be 
one of the most splendid villas in 
the environs of Rome. 

St Agnes. — This church was built 
by Constantine on the spot where 
the body of St Agnes was found. 
A marble staircase of forty-five 
steps, on the walls of which are nu- 
merous sepulchral inscriptions, leads 
to the church, divided into three 
naves by sixteen antique columns 
of different kinds of marble ; fifteen 
smaller columns support the upper 
portico, and four of porphyry sur- 
round the altar, composed of pre- 
cious marble, where the body of the 
saint is laid. Around the tribune 
is a mosaic of the time of Honorius 
I, and on the altar to the right 
a head of our Saviour by Buona- 
rotti. This church preserves the 
form of the civil basilics of the 
Romans. 

St Constanfia. — Some mosaic 
works representing genii gathering 
grapes induced antiquarians to con- 
sider this church as an ancient tem- 
ple of Bacchus, but it is known 
that these ornaments were fre- 
quently used in early Christian 
buildings. The present construction 
being of the time when art had de- 
clined, and the plan not agreeing 
with that of ancient temples, it is 
better to adopt the statement of 
Anastasius and Ammianus Marcel- 
linus, that Constantine built this 
baptistery of a spherical form for the 
baptism of the two Constantias, his 
sister and daughter. 

A sarcophagus of porphyry found 
on the spot, having the same sym- 
bols as those on the roof, of the 
same style and form as that of St 
Helen, would seem to indicate that 
it served as a sepulchre of the 



Constantine family. Both these 
sarcophagi were removed by 
order of Pius VI to the Vatican 
museum. 

The bodies of St Constantia and 
St Emerentiana are placed under 
the middle altar ; twenty -four gra- 
nite columns form the interior peri- 
style ; the external corridor is 
nearly destroyed. 

Some walls of an oblong form, 
improperly termed the hippodrome 
of Constantine, belonged, as the late 
excavations have proved, to a 
Christian burying ground placed 
between the two churches. 

A mile beyond these ruins is the 
Nomentan bridge thrown over the 
Anio, and on the other side 

The Movft Sacer. — The plebeians 
oppressed by the patricians with- 
drew to this spot, which they for- 
tified, in the year of Rome 361. 
The senate sent deputies, priests, 
and the vestals to persuade them 
to return, though to no purpose. 
They yielded to Menenius Agrippa, 
whose fable of the limbs of the 
human body is related by Livy. 
The tribunes were then instituted ; 
but being abolished by the decem- 
virs, the people withdrew a second 
time to this spot, when a law was 
passed, rendered sacred by an oath, 
that no revolt should ever be 
attempted against the tribunes. 
This hill, hitherto called "Veha," 
was thenceforth denominated Mons 
Sacer. 

At the distance of another mile, 
between the Nomentan and Sala- 
rian ways, in a spot called Vigne 
Nuove, are the ruins of the viUa of 
Phaon, in which Nero sought a 
refuge and put an end to his days. 
The position of this villa is deter- 
mined by the testimony of Sue- 
tonius. 

Porta Salaria. — When Honorius 
enlarged the walls the Porta Salaria 
was substituted to the CoUina of 
Servius. In 409 Alaric, king of 
the Goths, entered Rome by.-this 



674 



CENTJRAL ITALY. — EOME. FOURTH DAT. 



gate, through which the Gauls had 
also penetrated in the times of the 
republic. 

Villa Albain. — This villa was built 
in the middle of the last century by 
Cardinal Albani, who formed in it, 
under the direction of Winkelman, 
a large collection of statues, busts, 
bas-reliefs, sarcophagi, and other 
antique monuments. 

In the vestibule are bas-reliefs in 
stucco, copied from the antique : a 
statue of a young man, said to be 
C. Caesar, son of Agrippa; a Eoman 
lady under the form of Ceres ; a 
Nymph ; a slave with a dagger 
in his hand, improperly named 
Brutus ; the colossal masks of Me- 
dusa ; Bacchus and Hercules. 

On the walls of the staircase, 
among sundry bas-reliefs, is that 
of the children of Mobe kiUed by 
Apollo. In the oval room are a 
bas-relief representing the carceres 
of a circus, and a faun. 

The cabinet contains bronze sta- 
tues of Pallas, of the Farnese 
Hercules, of Glycon, of Apollo Sau- 
rotonus, one of the most remark- 
able of the collection ; a small 
Osiris, a Serapis of green basalt, 
Hercules reposing; vases of alabas- 
ter and porphyry. 

In the third room, over the 
chimney, is the profile of Antinous, 
celebrated for the beauty of its exe- 
cution. The gallery, ornamented 
with eight pilasters inlaid with 
mosaic, and ten with different sorts 
of marble, contains bas-reliefs of 
Hercules in the garden of the Hes- 
perides, of Dsedalus and Icarus, 
Alexander and Bucephalus, Marcus 
Aurelius with Faustina under the 
figure of Peace. The painting on 
the roof, a celebrated work of 
Mengs, represents Apollo and 
Mnemosyne on Parnassus, sur- 
rounded by the Muses. The chia- 
ro-oscuri are by Lapiccola. In the 
room adjoining is a Greek bas-relief 
of Eurydice bidding an eternal 
farewell to Orpheus at the moment 



that Mercury reconducts her to the 
infernal regions. 

Li the hall of the Caryatides are : 
a vase of a beautiful form ; the cele- 
brated Caryatides, inscribed with 
the names of Criton and Nicolaos, 
Athenian sculptors ; two other 
Caryatides of excellent workman- 
ship; the busts of Lucius Verus, 
Vespasian, and Titus; a colossal 
mask of Silenus. 

The gallery on the ground floor 
contains several hermes of The- 
mistocles, Epicurus, Alexander, 
Amilcar, Leonidas, Masinissa, and 
Scipio ; a celebrated Mercury, a 
statue of Faustina found near the 
forum of Nerva, Venus, a muse, 
a faun, and a priestess. 

Under the portico, supported by 
pilasters and twenty-eight columns 
of different marbles, are statues of 
the hours and of several Roman 
emperors. In the porch of Juno 
are the statue of that goddess, two 
Caryatides, the heads of Socrates 
and Pertinax, in bas-relief. 

In the long gallery are eighteen 
hermes ; a Greek statue of a Female 
holding a flower, in the same atti- 
tude and style as those which deco- 
rated the front of the temple of 
Egina — these are now in Bavaria ; 
a faun with Bacchus, Apollo, Diana, 
and a priestess of ancient Greek 
style. This gallery leads to a haU 
paved with antique mosaic ; in the 
centre is a superb marble sarco- 
phagus, on which is represented the 
marriage of Thetis and Peleus. 

In the first of the following rooms 
are a porphyry bust called Berenice, 
with a head of green basalt ; those 
of Caracalla Pertinax and Lucilla 
in rosso antico. A bas-relief repre- 
sents Diogenes in his tub conversing 
with Alexander ; a Daedalus pre- 
paring the wings of Icarus, and an 
antique landscape found on the 
Esquiline. 

In the second are a supposed 
Ptolemy, by Stephanos, a pupil of 
Praxiteles ; a Pallas, a Venus ; 



ROMAN STATES. — KOME. FOURTH DAY. 



675 



Jupiter seated amid the twelve 
signs of the zodiac ; a white marble 
vase, twenty-two feet in circum- 
ference, found at the temple of 
Hercules on the Via Appia, with 
the labours of Hercules sculptured 
in bas-relief. 

The third is decorated with six 
columns and several antique mar- 
bles ; a faun, a bust of Lucius 
Verus; black granite and africano 
vases ; an antique mosaic, on which 
is figured the inundation of the 
Nile ; and a small bas-relief of Iphi- 
genia on the point of sacrificing 
Orestes and Pylades on the altar of 
Diana. 

In the last room are a statue of 
Apollo seated on a tripod ; a Leda; 
the combat between Achilles and 
Memnon; and a fragment of cornice 
from the temple of Trajan, found in 
the ruins of his forum in 1767. 

The haU of the biUiard room 
contains among other statues those 
of Bacchus and Hyacinthus. In 
the room opposite are a Berenice, 
wife of Ptolemy; Evergetes offering 
the sacrifice of her hair for the safe 
return of her husband; in the room 
adjoining are a statue of Diana of 
Ephesus, and of a female Satyr. 

In another part of the garden, in 
semicircular portico supported by 
twenty-six colmnns of different 
marbles, are the statues of Mercury, 
Achilles, Apollo, Diana, a pretended 
Sappho, Hercules, Bacchus, and two 
Caryatides ; twenty smaller statues 
are placed on columns correspond- 
ing with those of the portico. There 
are also twenty busts, and twenty 
hermes ; the most remarkable are 
those of ^sop, Isocrates, Hortensius 
the orator, AureUan, Balbinus, and 
Caligula. 

Under the porch are. two statues 
of black Egyptian marble, two 
sphinxes, six small statues, and a 
large basin of Egyptian breccia. 
The mosaic pavement and paintings 
of the gaUery are the work of La- 
piccola, the landscapes are by 



Arnesi, the small pictures by Bic- 
cherai. On the base of the statue 
of Juno is an antique mosaic re- 
presenting a school of pMlosphers, 
and another representing Hesione 
delivered from the sea monster. 

Solar ian Bridge. — It was on this 
hridge that, 350 years before the 
Christian era, Manlius killed the 
Gaul who had challenged him to 
single combat, from whom he took 
the torques or golden coUar worn 
by the Gauls ; this exploit obtained 
for him the name of Torquatus. 
On the rising ground near the spot 
where the Anio joins the Tiber was 
situated Antemnffi, one of the most 
ancient towns of Latium. The plain 
and hills on the right of the bridge 
have been the scene of events cele- 
brated in early Roman history ; the 
defeat of the Veians and Fidenates 
by TuHus HostOius ; the defection 
and punishment of Fufetius, chief 
of the Albans, which occasioned the 
destruction of Albalunga. The 
tower on the left of the road is 
built on an ancient tomb. 

Gardens of SallusL — On his re- 
turn to Rome from Africa, which 
he had governed in the interests of 
Csesar, the historian Sallust formed 
these gardens in the valley between 
the Quirinal and Pincian hills and 
on a part of Monte Pincio. At 
his death they were inherited by 
his nephew, a friend of Agustus and 
Tiberius, and in the twentieth year 
of the Christian era they entered 
into the imperial domain. The 
villa constructed on the spot was 
inhabited by Nero, Vespasian, and 
also by Aurelian after the conquest 
of Palmyra. Having been destroyed 
by the Goths under Alaric in 409, no 
attempt was made to restore it. 

It is easy to trace the situation 
of the circus, the remains of the 
palace, of a temple of Venus, of 
the substructions on the side of the 
Quirinal, and in the Barberini vigna 
the "agger" of ServiusTullius, under 
which was the " Campus sceleratus," 



676 



CENTRAL ITALY. — EOME. FOtJRTH DAT, 



where the vestals, who had violated 
their vow, were buried alive. 

Villa LudovisL — This villa, now 
the property of Prince Piombino, 
consists of three edifices ; one of 
which was built on the designs of 
Dominichino, The most remark- 
able works of art in the second are 
a colossal head of Juno ; the sta- 
tues of Esculapius, Apollo, Venus ; 
busts of Claudius, Julius Csesar, 
Apollo, Antinous; a splendid statue 
of Mars in repose ; groups of Apollo 
and Diana, of Pan and Syrinx. A 
statue of Cleopatra, a gladiator, a 
Venus quitting the bath, a Hercules, 
Bacchus, and Mercury; a finely 
draped statue of Agrippina ; the 
group of Orestes recognised by his 
sister Electra, the work of Menelas, 
a Greek sculptor, as appears from 
the inscription ; and that of Paetus 
and Arria, or more probably of 
Hemon supporting Antigone. Pluto 
carrying off Proserpine is by Ber- 
nini. 

In the third is the fresco of Au- 
rora, a master-piece by Guercino. 
The goddess seated on a car drawn 
by four horses, and preceded by 
the Hours, scatters flowers around 
her. A youth holding a torch and 
flowers signifies Day break, and the 
female asleep Night 

The following room contains two 
landscapes by Dominichino, and 
two by Guercino, who painted also 
Fame, under the figure of a female 
sounding a trumpet and holding an 
olive branch ; this work is not in- 
ferior in merit to the Aurora. 

St Niccolb di Tolentino. — This 
church, built in 1614 by Prince 
Pamphili, contains a fine fresco of 
Pietro di Cortona, who designed the 
Gavotti chapel. The picture of St 
Agnes was copied from the original 
of Guercino in the Doria gallery. 

In the Piazza Barberini, situated 
on the site of the ancient circus of 
Flora, is a fountain supported by 
four dolphins, with a Triton in the 
centre. 



Capuchin Church. — In the first 
chapel on the right is the celebrated 
picture of St Michael by Guido. 
The Conception over the high altar 
is by Bombelli ; the St Anthony and 
St Bonaventure by Andrea Sacchi, 
St Paul cured by Ananias is one of 
the most correct works of Pietro di 
Cortona. 

St Isidoro. — The convent adjoin- 
ing this church is occupied by Irish 
Franciscans. The first chapel on 
the right and that on the left of the 
high altar were painted by Carla 
Maratta. The St Isidoro of the 
high altar is one of the best works 
of Andrea Sacchi. 

The Barherini Palace was com- 
menced under Urban VIII by Carlo 
Maderno and finished by Bernini. 
On the roof of the saloon Pietro di 
Cortona has painted the Triumph 
of Glory under the attributes of the 
Barberini family. In the centre- 
piece the arms of that family are 
carried up to heaven by the Virtues, 
in the presence of Providence, of 
Time, Eternity, and the Fates. The 
first side picture represents Minerva 
fulminating the Titans ; the second 
Keligion and Faith triumphing over 
Voluptuousness. The third Justice, 
Abundance, Charity, and Hercules 
destroying the Harpies, an allegory 
of the chastisement of the wicked. 
The fourth the Church and Pru- 
dence, Vulcan and Peace, closing 
the temple of Janus. 

In the gardens of the palace was 
the " Capitolium vetus," which 
had three chapels, dedicated by Nu- 
ma to Jupiter, Juno, and Minerva. 
In the court is the antique inscrip- 
tion taken from the triumphal arch 
erected to the Emperor Claudius 
after the conquest of Britain. 

Fontana d' Trevi. — The Aqua 
Vergine, which supplies the foun- 
tain, was introduced into Rome by 
Agrippa for the use of his baths, 
situated near the Pantheon. Its 
source is eight miles distant from 
the city, on the ancient Collatine 



ROMAN STATES. — ROME. FOURTH DAT. 



677. 



way; the subterraneous aqueduct is 
fourteen miles long: after travers- 
ing the villa Borghese and villa 
Medici, the water divides into two 
streams, one taking the direction of 
this fountain, and the other that of 
the Via Condotti. 

Before the front of the palace, 
where the fountain is placed, are 
four Corinthian columns and six 
pilasters, between which are two 
bas-reliefs, one represents Agrippa 
and the other the young girl who 
first discovered the spring. In the 
large niche is the statue of Neptune 
standing on a car drawn by sea- 
horses, and guided by Tritons, com- 
manding the waters which rush out 
of a mass of rocks. The side 
niches contain the statues of 
Abundance and Salubrity: the four 
over the entablature complete the 
decoration of the attic. 

The little church of St Maria in 
Trivio on the left of the fountain 
is said to have been built by Beli- 
sarius. It was reduced to its pre- 
sent form on the designs of Del 
Duca, in the middle of the seven- 
teenth century. 

In the church of St Andre delle 
Pratte are two angels by Bernini; 
the ceiling was painted by Marini. 
The steeple is a curious work of 
Boromini. 

Propaganda Fide.— This religious 
establishment was founded by Gre- 
gory XV in 1622, for the purpose 
of propagating the Catholic faith 
Young men from all countries are 
admitted here, and after having 
finished their education are sent as 
missionaries to different countries. 
The college possesses a typography 
furnished with all sorts of oriental 
characters, a library with many 
Coptic and oriental works, and a 
collection of medals, gems, and other 
curiosities. 

Piazza di Spagna. — So called 
from the residence of the Spanish 
ambassadors at Rome. In the cen- 
tre is a fountain called the Barcacciaj 



from its form, and the stairs that 
lead to the Trinita de' Monti, on 
the Pincian hill. 

The church of the Trinita de' 
Monti was built by Charles VIII, 
king of France, who presented it to 
the religious order of St Francesco 
Paola. It belongs, at present, 
to the community of the Sacre 
Coeur de Jesus, who have estab- 
lished a house of education for 
young ladies in the adjoining con- 
vent. This church was restored in 
1815. In the sacristy is the beau- 
tiful fresco of Daniel di Volterra, 
representing the Deposition from 
the Cross. 

French Academy. — This palace 
was built in l.')40 on the designs of 
Annibal Lippi, the front overlook- 
ing the garden on those of Michael 
Angelo ; it was enlarged by Cardi- 
nal de Medici, and although within 
the walls, the circuit of the whole 
villa, which commands extensive 
views over the city and its envi- 
rons, is of about a mile and a half. 

The French academy, founded by 
Louis IV in 1 666, is composed of a 
director and twenty pensioners 
chosen among the young men who 
have obtained prizes at Paris in 
sculpture, painting, architecture, 
music, and engraving. 

Villa Borghese. — This, villa, one 
of the largest and most splendid of 
Rome, owes its origin to Cardinal 
Scipio Borghese, the nephew of 
Paul V. At the end of last cen- 
tury it was enlarged under Prince 
Marc Antonio, more recently by the 
princes Camillo and Francesco Bor- 
ghese ; it has been considerably 
embellished by the latter, who 
added to it the villa of Raphas^l. 

The grand entrance is of the Ionic 
order, erected on the model of the 
finest propyljea of Greece and Asia 
Minor. At the extremity of the 
great walk is an arch surmounted 
with a statue of Septimius Severus; 
and the propylasa of an Egyptian 
temple leading to the villa of Ra- 
M 2 



678i 



CENTRAL ITALY. — HOME. FOURTH DAY. 



phael, who painted on the walls the 
Marriage of Roxana, and various 
sacrifices and arabesques, all which 
have suffered from the lapse of 
time. Beyond the aqueduct, on the 
right, is a small temple consecrated 
to Diana ; on tlie left, the lake and 
temple of Esculapius ; and at the 
end of the walk an imitation of an 
antique monument, with copies of 
sundry inscriptions found at the 
country house of Herod Atticus. 

The palace, built on the designs 
of Vansanzio, a Flemish architect, 
contains a large collection of an- 
tique monuments. 

Under the portico are two tri- 
umphal bas-reliefs that belonged to 
the arch of Claudius, others allu- 
sive to a battle between the Romans 
and barbarians, and to the origin 
of Rome ; a curious monument in 
travertine, bearing the inscription 
Orvius, or Corvius Nasica, repre- 
senting a Roman magistrate pre- 
ceded by three lictors, and several 
antique inscriptions. 

The fresco on the roof of the saloon, 
painted by Rossi, represents the 
arrival of Camillus when the gar- 
rison of the Capitol were in treaty 
with Brennus for the ransom of the 
city ; the circular bas-reliefs, the 
sacrifice of Polixenes, Hercules, and 
Jole. The colossal busts of Isis 
and a Muse, of Adrian and Anto 
ninus Pius, are admirably executed. 
In the left niche is a semi-colossal 
statue of a faun, in the right, one 
of Bacchus. The bust of Vespasian, 
the funeral altar of Flavia, and the 
tomb of Petronia, a celebrated 
singer of the time of Antoninus 
Pius, are interesting works. 

In the first chamber are copies 
of bas-reliefs from antiques, ara- 
besques, and paintings. The sub- 
ject of the vase alludes to the story 
of OEdipus and the Sphinx. The 
statue of Ceres, from the expression 
of the head, the delicacy of the 
work, and the drapery, is consi- 
dered as a master-piece of ancient 



sculpture. On the right is the 
bas-relief of Telephus, found in the 
ruins of the imperial villa on the 
Labican way, and a torse of Gany- 
mede from Nomentum. 

The second chamber contains 
several monuments relative to the 
history of Hercules. In the mid- 
dle is the Amazon, Antiope, com- 
bating Hercules and Theseus ; on 
the sarcophagus are the labours of 
Hercules against the lion, the hydra, 
and the wild boar, with the hind 
and the stymphalides. The arrival 
of the Amazons to assist Troy, 
figured on the cover of the sarco- 
phagus, has been illustrated by 
Winkelman. The opposite side 
alludes to five other labours : a gainst 
the bull of Crete, Geryon, Hippo- 
litus, the dragon of the Hesperides, 
the centaur Nessus ; and the 
second part of the cover to the 
council of the gods on the marriage 
of Thetis. 

The third chamber, in which are 
works of Bernini, contains sixteen 
pilasters and four columns of red 
oriental granite. The ceiling: was 
painted by Marchetti ; the meta- 
morphosis of Daphne in the valley 
of Tempo, by Moore ; Apollo and 
Diana, by Labruzzi ; and the ani- 
mals, by Peters. The groups of 
Apollo and Daphne, ^neas, David 
drawing the sling against Goliah, 
are by Bernini. The has reliefs 
allusive to the seasons, represented 
on four vases, are by Laboureur. 

The gallery is one of the most 
splendid of Rome. Its twenty 
pilasters of giallo antico, with 
gilded capitals, are ornamented 
with white marble camei and blue 
mosaics, executed on the designs of 
Tommaso Conca by Carradori, 
Salimbeni, and other artists of his 
time. In the niches are antique 
statues of a Muse, Diana, Bacchus, 
and Thetis ; on the walls are eleven 
modern bas-reliefs alluding to my- 
thological subjects ; the arabesque 
paintings are by Marchetti ; the 



ROMAN STATES. — ROME. FIFTH DAT. 



679 



fable of Galathea is the work of 
D* Angelis. The busts in porphyry 
of the emperors, the porphyry sar- 
cophagus found in the mausoleum 
of Adrian ; four tables of the same 
marble ; several vases and cups of 
alabaster and species of other mar- 
ble, particularly one in ophix, a 
very rare Egyptian stone, complete 
the decorations of this chamber. 

The cabinet contains an Herma- 
phrodite, several precious marbles, 
busts of Tiberius, Sappho, Mercury, 
and Scipio ; an antique pavement 
in mosaic, found at Castel Arcione, 
on the road to Tivoli, and a table 
inlaid with agate, jasper, lapis 
lazuli, and other precious stones. 
The paintings on the ceiling allud- 
ing to the fable of the Hermaphro- 
dite and Salmacis are by Buonvi- 
cini. 

In the fourth chamber are six- 
teen pilasters and four columns of 
breccia corallina. The Council of 
the Gods was painted by Pecheux ; 
the chiaro-oscuri, by Marchetti. 
The four oil paintings, by Thiers, a 
French artist, represent a chase 
and the death of Milo ; Polydamas 
and the gratitude of Theseus. A 
statue of the Pythian Apollo in the 
primitive Greek style, and a sarco- 
phagus on which are sculptured 
Tritons and Nereids, in allusion to 
the transfer of souls into the isles 
of the blessed. 

The fifth chamber possesses seve- 
ral monuments relative to the reli- 
gion of Egypt; various species of 
marble and columns in oriental 
granite, nero antico ; a statue of 
Isis with her attributes, in bronze ; 
a Ceres ; a female statue of a style 
anterior to the time of Phidias ; a 
bronze head of Bacchus ; the re- 
maining part is of flowered alabaster. 

In the middle of the sixth cham- 
ber is an antique group of three 
figures emblematic of Youth, Viri- 
lity, and Old Age, or of Spring, Sum- 
mer, and Winter ; there are also a 
Ceres, a Mercury, inventor of the 



lyre ; two fauns, a Pluto, an Anto- 
ninus Pius ; Bacchus and Proserpine, 
a very ancient and unique group. 

On the second story are chimney 
pieces of amethyst, porphyry, rosso 
antico, several paintings by Peters, 
Gavin Hamilton, the statues of 
Paris and Helen, and four bas- 
reliefs, in giallo antico, on a ground 
of porphyry, the work of Pacetti. 

FIFTH DAY. 

FROM THE MAUSOLEUM OF AUGUS- 
TUS TO THE VELABRUM. 

Mausoleum of Augustus in the Via 
Poatefici. — Suetonius, speaking of 
the funeral of Augustus, says that 
his remains were placed in the 
monument which he had erected in 
his sixth consulate, or twenty- 
seventh year before our era, be- 
tween the Flaminian way and the 
banks of the Tiber. The ashes of 
Octavia, Drusus, Germanicus, and 
of other members of his family, 
were also deposited here. 

Strabo observes, in the fifth book 
of his Geography, that on a circular 
and elevated base of white marble 
was a mound of earth, planted 
with evergreens ; that on its sum- 
mit was the bronze statue of Au- 
gustus, and in the interior the 
sepulchral chambers destined for 
his family , that behind the monu- 
ment were shady walks, containing 
in the centre a funeral pile of white 
marble surrounded with poplars. 

In the twelfth century this 
monument was converted into a 
fortress by the Colonna princes, 
and falling into possession of the 
people of Rome it was reduced to a 
ruin. Nothing now remains but 
the foundation walls and the traces 
of thirteen sepulchral rooms. 
About the end of last century 
a species of amphitheatre was 
built on these walls, which is used 
in the summer months for theatri- 
cal representations. 



680 



CENTRAL ITALY ROME. FIFTH DAT. 



St Roch. — This church, situated 
in the Via Ripetta, was rebuilt in 
1657 by Rossi, and its front re 
cently oy Valadier, Over the altar 
of the second chapel is a fine paint- 
ing of the Virgin, St Roch, and St 
Anthony, by Boccaccio ; in the 
chapels of St Anthony and of the 
Crib are esteemed works of Cala- 
brese and Baldassar Peruzzi. 

Ripetta. — Under Clement XI a 
landing place was made here for 
the wine, oil, wood, corn, and other 
articles brought by water from 
Umbria and the Sabine country. 
The steps are formed of the stones 
of an arch of the Coliseum thrown 
down by an earthquake in 1703. 
On the level of the street is a 
fountain ; on the columns are 
marked the greatest inimdations 
of the Tiber. 

Opposite the steps is the church 
of the Schiavoni, given by Nicholas 
V to the Illyrian nation. It was 
rebuilt in 1588 by Sixtus V. 

Borghese Palace This palace, 

one of the most magnificent of 
Rome, was begun in 1590 by Car- 
dinal Dezza, and finished under 
Paul V, by Flaminio Ponzio. The 
porticoes in the entrance court are 
supported by ninety- six granite 
columns. 

The apartments on the ground 
floor contain a choice collection of 
pictures, open to the public daily 
at ten o'clock. We shall enumerate 
the principal of them : — 

First Room — The Holy Trinity, 
by Leandro Bassano ; the Madonna, 
Child, and two Apostles ; the Con- 
version of St Paul, by Garofalo ; a 
Madonna, by Ghirlandajo ; St 
Peter repentant, by Spagnoletto ; 
the Adoration of the Kings, by 
Giacomo Bassano. 

Second Room— Our Saviour, and 
a head of St Francis, by Annibal 
Caracci ; the Marriage of Cana, 
Birth of Christ, and Deposition 
from the Cross, by Garofalo ; the 
Virgin, Jesus, and St John, by 



Titian ; Christ with a Disciple, 
Venus weeping for the death of 
Adonis, both by Scarsellino ; the 
Chase of Diana, one of the master- 
pieces of Dominichino. 

Third Room — St Anthony preach- 
ing to the Fish, by Paul Veronese ; 
Pordenone and his Family, painted 
by himself ; a St John the Baptist 
in the Desert, by Paul Veronese ; a 
St Francis, by Annibal Caracci ; 
and a Holy Family, by Pierin del 
Vaga. 

Fourth Room — Two Apostles, 
by Buonarotti ; the Rape of Europa,. 
by the Cavalier dArpino; a Ra- 
phael, the Deposition from the 
Cross ; another Deposition, by Ga- 
rofalo ; the Cumsean Sybil of 
Dominichino ; the Visitation of 
St Elizabeth of Rubens ; a David, 
by Giorgione. 

Fifth Room — The Four Seasons, 
by Albano ; Joseph with the Wife 
of Potiphar, by Lanfranc ; the 
Samaritan Woman, by Garofalo ; 
the Prodigal Child, by Guercino ; 
and the Resurrection of Lazarus, 
by Agostino Caracci. 

Sixth Room — A Susanna, by 
Rubens ; a portrait of the Forna- 
rina, by Giulio Romano ; a Venus 
and Satyr, by Paul Veronese. 

The Seventh Room is covered 
with looking glasses 

Eighth Room — Four mosaics, 
one representing Paul V, of the 
Borghese family ; a Madonna and 
Child, by Palma ; and a Portrait, 
by Bronzino. 

Ninth Room — A Prodigal Child, 
by Titian ; a Holy Family, by Inno- 
cenzo d'lmola; a Deposition, by 
Pietro Perugino ; a portrait of 
Cesare Borgia, and another of a 
Cardinal, by Raphael; the Madonna 
and Child, \)y Scarsellino ; the 
celebrated picture of Sacred and 
Profane Love, one of the master- 
pieces of Titian. 

Tenth Room — The Return of the 
Prodigal Child, by Guercino ; a 
Resurrection of Lazarus, and a 



ROMAN STATES. — ROME. FIFTH DAY. 



681 



Flagellation, by Garofalo ; a Ma- 
donna, by Pietro Perugino ; Samson 
bound to the Column of the Temple, 
Jesus in the presence of the Phari- 
sees, and the Graces, all by 
Titian. 

Eleventh Room — A Holy Family, 
by Scipio Gaetano ; the Virgin and 
Child, by Bellini; the Wife of 
Titian, under the figure of Judith, 
by Titian ; Lot and his Daughters, 
by Gherardo dehi Notti ; a portrait 
of Raphael, by one of his pupils ; a 
Virgin and Child, by Andrea del 
Sarto. 

Campo Marzo. — The ancient 
Campus Martius extended from the 
Capitol, Quirinal, and Pincian hills 
to the Tiber, and in the days of the 
republic was consecrated to gym- 
nastic exercises and the public 
assemblies for the election of ma- 
gistrates ; but under the empire a 
part only remained for public use, 
the rest being occupied by monu- 
ments, by the theatres of Pompey 
and MarceUus, the amphitheatre 
of Taurus, the Pantheon, and the 
thermas of Agrippa. 

St Maria Maddalena. — This 
church contains several ornaments, 
and some paintings. Placido Cos- 
tanzi has represented St Camillo 
de Lellis, founder of the religious 
order that assists the dying. 
Boccaccio painted the chapel of St 
Nicholas of Bari. 

St Maria in Aquiro. — This appel- 
lation is said to be derived from the 
" equiria'' games which were cele- 
brated on this spot ; it is now 
called Orfanelli, from the house in 
which orphans are received and 
educated. The second chapel 
contains paintings by Gherardo 
delle Notti. Over the altar is 
the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin, 
by Boncore. In the chapel of the 
Annunciation is a picture by Nappi 
or the Capuchin, and frescoes by 
Saraceni. 

Pantheon. — This monument, the 
most perfect of the Roman antiqui- 



ties, was erected by Agrippa in his 
third consulate, in the 727th year 
of Rome and the 27 th before the 
Christian era. It is evident that 
the circular part of this edifice has 
no connexion with the portico — a 
circumstance which has given rise 
to discussion amongst modern wri- 
ters, some pretending that the round 
haU is greatly anterior to Agrippa, 
and that he merely added the por- 
tico. This haU, however, can be 
attributed only to Agrippa, as it is 
connected with his thermae. We 
may reasonably conclude that, wish- 
ing to transform this building into 
a temple, Agrippa added the por- 
tico in 729 to the edifice which had 
been erected in 727. Dio observes 
that as the statue of Venus and 
Mars, placed in the interior, had 
the attributes of several divinities, 
the temple was called the Pantheon, 
but adds his beUef that it was so 
called from the resemblance of the 
roof to the form of the heavens. 
The statue of Julius Cffisar was 
placed in the interior ; those of 
Augustus and Agrippa in niches 
under the portico. Having suffered 
from fire under Titus and Trajan, 
the Pantheon was restored by 
Adrian, and at a subsequent period 
by Antoninus Pius, Severus, and 
Caracalla, as is proved by the fol- 
lowing inscription still legible on 
the architrave : — 

IMP. CAES. SEPTIMIVS . SEVERVS . PIVS . 

PERTIKAX . ARABICVS . ADIABEKICVS . 

PARTHICVS . MAXIMVS . PONTIF. MAX. 

TRIE. POTEST. X. IMP. IX COS. Ill, P. P. 

PROCOS 
IMP. CAES. M. AVREilVS . ANTONINTS . 

PIVS . FEIIX . AVG. TRIE. POTEST. V. 

COS. PROCOS. PANTHEVM . VETVSTATE . 

CORRVPTVM . CVM . OMNI . CVLTV . RES- 

TITVERVNT 

This last restoration was made 
in the year 202 ; no further men- 
tion is made of this monument till 
it was visited by the Emperor Con- 
stantius in 354. In 391 it was 
closed, like aU other pagan temples, 
and remained so till 608, when the 



CENTRAL ITALY. — ROME. FIFTH DAT. 



Emperor Phocas ceded it to Boni- 
face IV, who dedicated it in honour 
of the blessed Virgin and the mar- 
tyrs, mider the title of St Maria ad 
Martyres, which it still preserves. 

In 663 the Emperor Constantius 11 
stripped the temple of the bronze 
tiles which covered the roof and 
the cupola, and of the bronze statues 
which had escaped preceding devas- 
tations, and gave orders to transport 
them to Constantinople. They were 
taken by the Saracens, and carried 
to Alexandria. Gregory in repaired 
this injury by covering the roof 
with lead. 

In the civil broils of the thirteenth 
and fourteenth centuries this mo- 
nument suffered severely ; at the 
beginning of the fifteenth century 
the eastern side of the portico had 
disappeared ; ruins had accumulated 
to the height of the bases of the co- 
lumns, so that it was necessary to 
descend several steps in order to 
enter the church. 

In 1632 Urban VIII, of the Bar- 
berini family, ordered all the bronze 
of the portico to be applied to the 
construction of the columns of the 
confession and of the chair of St 
Peter, and to the founding of cannon 
for the Castel St Angelo, which 
amounted to eighty in number. 
Torrigio. who was an eye-witness, 
says that the metal thus carried 
away weighed 450,251 lbs., and the 
nails alone 9,374 lbs. 

In 1662 Alexander VII restored 
the eastern side, raised the two 
granite columns stiU standing, and 
cleared away the rubbish and huts 
which encumbered the portico. 
Benedict XIV, in the middle of last 
century, reduced the interior to its 
present state. Under Pius VII the 
covering of the cupola was partly 
renewed, and excavations were 
made near the western side of the 
portico which have thrown light on 
the plan of the edifice. 

The portico, 103 feet wide and 
sixty-one deep, consists of sixteen 



columns, each of a single block of 
oriental granite, fourteen feet in 
circumference and thirty-eight in 
height, exclusive of either base or 
capital. The eight front columns, 
of grey granite, support an enta- 
blature and pediment of the finest 
architectural proportions. The en- 
trance into the temple was formerly 
effected by seven steps, but at pre- 
sent only by two. The diameter of 
the interior, which is equal to its 
height from the pavement, is 132 
feet ; the thickness of the external 
waU is nineteen feet. The Hght 
enters by a single circular opening, 
twenty -six feet in diameter, at the 
top of the roof. 

The tribune of the high altar, of 
a semicircular form, is ornamented 
with fourteen large fluted columns 
of marble, twenty- seven feet high 
and three and a half in diameter, 
without the capital and base ; eight 
circular chapels, decorated with 
columns and pilasters, support the 
entablature, the frieze of which is 
covered with porphyry. The bronze 
Caryatides, the work of Diogenes 
of Athens, which, according to 
Pliny, were placed in the interior, 
probably supported the upper cor- 
nice of the attic. 

Around the circumference be- 
tween the chapels are eight niches, 
called by the ancients ajdiculae, 
adorned with a pediment supported 
by two Corinthian columns of giaUo 
antico, porphyry, and granite,which 
have been adapted to serve for 
altars. 

In the third chapel on the left in 
entering, under the statue of the 
Madonna del Sasso, the work of 
Lorenzetto, one of his pupUs, are 
the remains of Raphael. The busts 
of Peruzzi, Pieria del Vaga, Zuccari, 
Annibal Caracci, and others who 
were buried in this temple, have 
been transferred to the Capitol. 

The Church of St Maria supra 
Minerva. — This church derives its 
name from the temple of Minerva 



ROMAN STATES. — ROME. FIFTH DAT. 



683 



erected by Pompey, on the ruins of 
which it was built. The most in- 
teresting objects which it contains 
are a crucifix painted by Giotto, 
the tombs of Leo X and Clement VII 
by Bandinelli, and a statue of our 
Saviour by JVIichael Angelo. In 
the convent is a hbrary open daily 
to the pubUc. 

The ancient church of St Eusta- 
chio, which was restored in the last 
century on the designs of Canevari, 
preserves in an antique urn placed 
under the altar the remains of the 
titular saint, whose martyrdom is 
represented in a painting by Eer- 
nandi, placed in the choir. 

Near this church is the Sapienza 
or University, commenced by Leo X 
on the plans of JVIichael Angelo ; it 
was continued by Sixtus V, and 
finished by Alexander VTE. It is 
divided into five colleges, viz., those 
of theology, law, medicine, philoso- 
phy, and philology ; the professors 
are paid by government. On the 
ground floor are schools of the fine 
arts, under the direction of the 
Academy of St Luke ; in which 
lectures are delivered on sculpture, 
painting, architecture, perspective, 
anatomy, and mythology. 

The Palazzo Madama, the resi- 
dence of the governor of Rome, was 
built by Catherine de Medici, after- 
wards queen of France, on the ruins 
of the thermae of Nero, of which 
several granite columns are stUl 
preserved in a cellar in the Via de' 
Crescenzi. Numbers of statues, 
busts, and bas-reliefs, found in the 
ruins, were once deposited in the 
Giustiniani palace, which contained 
also a fine collection of paintings. 

StLuiyi — This church was built 
in 1589, by Henry III, king of 
France, on the designs of Giacomo 
deUa Porta. It has three naves, 
divided by Ionic pilasters, covered 
with Sicilian jasper. In the second 
chapel on the right are frescoes by 
Dominichino, representing on one 
side St Cecily distributing her 



clothes to the poor, the same saint 
in her last moments, and on the 
other the angels crowning her and 
her husband. The Assumption of 
the Virgin, over the high altar, is 
by Francesco Bassano. In the cha- 
pel of St Matthew is a fine painting 
by Caravaggio, representing our 
Saviour summoniag the publican 
to abandon his occupations and to 
foUow him ; and in the sacristy a 
small painting of the Madonna, 
attributed to Correggio. 

Church of St Augustin.-^This 
church, bmlt in 1483, on the designs 
of Baccio Pintelli, by Cardinal 
D'Estouteville de Rohan, and re- 
stored in the last century by Van- 
viteUi, is in the ItaUan style of the 
fifteenth century. It is divided by 
columns into three naves; its cu- 
pola was the first ever erected in 
Rome. 

Near the entrance is a statue of 
the Madonna and Child, by Sanso- 
vino, which, being in particular 
veneration, is decorated with pre- 
cious gifts. 

In the chapel of St Augustin are 
three paintings by Guercino. At 
the high altar are four angels, ac- 
cording to the models of Bernini, 
and an image of the Virgin, said to 
have been painted by St Luke, 
brought to Rome by the Greeks 
after the faU of Constantinople. In 
the urn of verde antico of the ad- 
joining chapel reposes the body 
of St Monica, mother of St Au- 
gustin. The statue of St Thomas 
de Villanova, by Ferrata ; the 
group of the Virgin, Child, and 
St Andrew, by Sansovino, and the 
Madonna of Loreto, by Caravaggio, 
decorate the adjoining chapels ; on 
the third pilaster on the left of the 
entrance is the celebrated fresco of 
Isaiah, by Raphael. 

In the convent annexed to the 

church is a library, to which the 

public is admitted daily. 

j The church of St Antonio de' 

I Portoghesi, was bmlt in 1695 by 



684 



CENTRAL ITALY. — ROME. FIFTH DAT. 



Martin Longhi, at the expense of 
the king of Portugal. It contains 
several rare and beautiful species of 
marble, gilt stuccoes, and paintings 
by Calandrucci, Graziani, and Luigi 
Agricola. 

St ApoUinare. — In 772 Adrian I 
buUt this church on the ruins of a 
temple or monument consecrated to 
Apollo. It was restored by Bene- 
dict XIV, and contains a statue of 
St Francis Xavier, by Legros ; on 
the altar is a pamting by Ercole 
Gennari. 

In the Roman seminary young 
men, destined for the ecclesiastical 
profession, are instructed in the 
belles lettres, and the different 
branches of philosophy and theo- 
logy. The estabhshment is under 
the inspection of the cardinal vicar- 
general, who generally resides in it. 

The Palazzo Altemps, the por- 
ticoes of which were raised by Bal- 
thassar Peruzzi, contains some an- 
cient statues, colmnns, and bas- 
reliefs, and in the chapel is pre- 
served the body of Pope St Anicetus, 
who died a martyr in 168. 

On the front of a house in the 
same street, Polydore Caravaggio 
painted in chiaro-oscuro the fable of 
Niobe. The Lancellotti palace pos- 
sesses ancient statues of Mercury, 
Diana, and numerous busts. 

The Church of St Salvator inZauro. 
— This church contains thirty -four 
Corinthian columns, a painting by 
Peruzzini of the Santa Casa of Lo- 
reto, and the first production of 
Pietro di Cortona. 

The house numbered 124 in the 
Via Coronari was the property and 
once the residence of Raphael. Near 
the Piazza St Angelo formerly ex- 
isted an arch raised in honour of 
the emperors Gratian, Valentinian 
II, and Theodosius ; the verde an- 
tico columns and other marbles 
forming its decoration are now in 
the church of St Celsus, near which 
are the Palazzo Cicciaporci, built by 
Oiulio Romano, and Palazzo Nico- 



lini by Sansovino, a celebrated Flo- 
rentine architect. 

Chiesa Nuova. — St Filippo Neri, 
with the assistance of Gregory XIII, 
built this church, which contains 
works of Pietro di Cortona (who 
painted the ceiling and cupola) ; of 
Gaetani, Cavalier d'Arpino and 
Muziano. 

Before the high altar are four 
fine columns of porta santa, with the 
bases and capitals in gilt bronze ; 
three paintings by Rubens, repre- 
sent angels, saints, and martyrs. 

The body of St Filippo Neri re- 
poses in the chapel consecrated in 
his honour ; the Presentation of the 
Blessed Virgin in the Temple, over 
the next altar, is an esteemed work 
of Boccaccio. In the sacristy is a 
statue by Algardi of St PhiUp, and 
in the room which the saint inha- 
bited are paintings by Guercino 
and Guido. 

St Maria della Pace. — This church 
was built under Sixtus IV by Pin- 
teUi, and restored under Alexander 
Vn by Pietro da Cortona, who 
added its semicircular portico. 

The interior has a nave and octa- 
gonal cupola. The first chapel on 
the right contains a bronze bas- 
reHef of the Deposition from the 
Cross, and St Catherine surroimded 
by little children, by FanceUi ; over 
the arch are the celebrated frescoes 
of Raphael, representing the Cu- 
msean, Persian, Phrygian, and Ti- 
burtine Sybils. 

Under the cupola are the Visita- 
tion of St Elizabeth, by Carlo Ma- 
ratta ; the Presentation in the Tem- 
ple, a master-piece of Baldassar Pe- 
ruzzi ; the Birth of the Blessed 
Virgin, by Vanni; and her Death, by 
Morandi. There are four colmnns 
of verde antico near the high altar, 
over which are some works of Fran- 
cesco Albano. 

In the church of St Maria dell' 
Anima, begun in 1400, and after- 
wards enlarged by German resi- 
dents in Rome, who established near 



ROMAN STATES. — ROME. FIFTH DAY. 



685 



it a hospital for their fellow citizens, 
are sundry works of Saraceni, Ge- 
mignani ; a Madonna over the altar, 
by Julio Romano ; the tomb of 
Adrian VI, from the designs of Pe- 
ruzzi, and a monument to Luke 
Holstenius, who flourished in the 
seventeenth century. The front 
gates, of a good style of architec- 
ture, are attributed to Sangallo. 

Piazza Navona. — This piazza, oc- 
cupying the site of the circus of 
Alexander Severus, some ruins of 
which exist under the church of St 
Agnes, still preserves its original 
form, the houses being built on the 
foxmdations of the ancient seats. 

Under Gregory XIII a fountain 
was placed at its northern and ano- 
ther at its southern extremity. 
The latter consists of two large 
marble basins ; in the centre is the 
figure of a Triton holding a dolphin, 
by Bernini, erected under Innocent 
X ; on the borders of the vase are 
similar figures executed by Fla- 
minio Vacca, Leonardo of Sarzana, 
SiUa, and Landini. 

Bernini, by order of Innocent X, 
made the designs of the central 
fountain, formed of a large circular 
basiQ, seventy-three feet in dia- 
meter, within which is a rock per- j 
forated on its four sides, and four i 
colossal statues, executed on the i 
models of Bernini, representing the 
Ganges, NUe, La Plata, and the 
Danube. 

A market is held in this piazza 
every Wednesday, and in August it 
is inundated on Saturdays and Sun- 
days. 

St Agnes. — This church, restored 
by the Pamphili princes in the 
seventeenth century, is in the form 
of a Greek cross. The interior 
contains eight large colunms of cot- 
tanello marble, gUt stucco, verde 
antico near the high altar; several 
statues and paintings by various 
artists of that period. 

The St Agnes in the flames, and 
St Eustace exposed to the lions, are 



by Ferrata ; the group of the Holy 
Family by Guido ; the tomb of 
Innocent X by Maini. Below the 
church is one of the finest works of 
Algardi, representing St Agnes. 

The Pamphfli palace, adjoining 
the church, was built in 1650 on 
the designs of Rainaldi. On the 
extensive ceUing of the grand gal- 
lery Pietro di Cortona painted the 
adventures of JEneas. 

The Braschi palace is celebrated 
for its splendid marble staircase, 
which is decorated with columns 
and pilasters of oriental red granite. 

At the corner of this palace is 
the Piazza Pasquino, on which is 
an ancient mutilated statue placed 
on a pedestal ; it was found near 
the shop of a tailor named Pasquino, 
who was celebrated for his jokes 
and satires, a circumstance from 
which the word pasquinade is de- 
rived. The statue, though greatly 
injured by time, exhibits traces of 
excellent workmanship ; it formed 
part of a group representing Mene- 
laus defending the body of Patroclus. 

The church of St Pantaleo, erected 
in 1216 by Honorius III, was pre- 
sented by Gregory XV to St Joseph 
Calasanzio, who foimded the order 
of the pious schools destined to give 
gratuitous instruction in reading, 
writing, arithmetic, and rudiments 
of Latin. The body of the saintly 
founder reposes under the altar in 
an urn of porphyry. 

The Palazzo Massimi, built by 
Balthassar Peruzzi, contains various 
paintings and an antique statue of 
a Discobolus, copied from the bronze 
statue by Myron. 

St Andrea della VaUe. — In this 
church, erected in 1591, are several 
classic works of the Bolognese 
school. Lanfranc painted the 
cupola ; Domini chino the four 
Evangelists and several traits from 
the history of St Andrew ; H 
Carabrese the pictures allusive to 
the life of the saint. The first 
chapel on the right has eight co- 



686 



CENTRAL ITALY. — -ROME. PIETH DAT. 



lumns of verde antico ; the second, 
that of the Strozzi family, has 
twelve of lumachella, four tombs, 
and over the altar a bronze group 
of the Blessed Virgin with our 
Saviour after his Crucifixion, copied 
from the original of Michael Angelo. 
The other monuments of note are 
the tombs of Pius II and Pius III, 
by Pasquino da Montepulciano ; 
the Assumption, over the last altar, 
by Passignani ; the statues of St 
John the Baptist, the Evangelist, St 
Martha, and St Mary Magdalen. 

The Theatre of Pompey occupied 
the entire space between the Palazzo 
Pio and the Via Chiavari and 
Giupponari ; the scena or stage 
began near the tribune of St Andrea 
della Valle ; the centre of the semi- 
circular part is now covered by 
the Palazza Pio, on which are the 
only visible ruins of this monument. 
It contained 28,000 spectators, and 
communicated with a portico sup- 
ported by 100 columns, occupying 
the site of the present streets Delia 
Farina, Sudario, Argentina, and 
Barbieri. On the days of public 
representation the senate assembled 
in a hall called Curia Pompeia, in 
which Caesar fell on the ides of 
March, the 709th year of Kome, and 
44th before our era. 

The Palazzo Stoppani, now 
Vidoni was built on the designs 
of Raphael ; the Prenestine tables, 
a kind of ancient calendar found at 
Palestrina, are preserved here ; and 
at the foot of the stairs is an antique 
statue of Marcus Aurelius. 

In the vicinity of the Argentina 
theatre are the churches of the St 
Sudario, belonging to the Piedmon- 
tese, and St Julian to the Flemish 
nation ; also those of St Helen and 
St Nicholas. In the yard and cellar 
of the house adjoining this church 
are four ancient columns which 
formed part of the temple of Her- 
cules Custos, finished by Sylla in 
the 669th year of Rome. 

The Palazzo Mattel possesses 



many objects of antiquity ; the 
statues of Pallas, Jupiter, Abund- 
ance, bas-reliefs representing a 
consul punishing a culprit ; a sacri- 
fice to Priapus ; the Chase of Me- 
leager ; a sacrifice to Esculapius ; 
the Rape of Proserpine ; the 
Graces; Peleus and Thetis; besides 
busts of several emperors. 

In the rooms are paintings by 
Paul Brill and Breughel ; the Sacri- 
fice of Abraham, by Guido ; fres- 
coes by Pietro di Cortona ; and the 
entrance of Charles V into Bologna, 
by Tempesta. 

Fiaminian Circus. — The Mattel 
palace just described occupies the 
site of the circus built by Caius 
Flaminius, who in his second con- 
sulate was killed at the battle of 
Lake Thrasymene. It covered the 
space bounded by the Piazza deU' 
Olmo and Capizucchi. It was sur- 
rounded with temples, which have 
aU disappeared. From the columna 
beUica, placed before the temple of 
Bellona, the consuls and emperors 
hurled a dart in the direction of the 
country against which they declared 
war. 

In the Piazza Tartaruga is the 
beautiful fountain raised on the 
designs of Giacomo della Porta ; the 
bronze figures are by Taddeo Lan- 
dini, a distinguished Florentine 
artist. 

In the Costaguti palace are several 
frescoes by celebrated artists of the 
first period of the seventeenth cen- 
tury. Hercules shooting an arrow * 
against Nessus, who is carrying 
away Dejanira, is a work of Albano ; 
ApoUo mounted on his car sur- 
rounded by Genii and Time, dis 
covering Truth, is by Dominichino ; 
the episode of the Jerusalem, Ri- 
naldo sleeping on his car, drawn by 
two dragons in the presence of 
Armida, is a highly-finished com- 
position of Guercino ; the Venus, 
Cupid, and other divinities, are by 
the Cavalier d'Arpino ; Justice and 
Peace, by Lanfranc j Arion seated 



ROMAN STATES. — ^ROME. PIETH DAY. 



687 



on the dolphin, and a vessel filled 
with mariners, by Romanelli. 

St Caterina de Funari. — This 
church was built in the twelfth, and 
was restored in the sixteenth, cen- 
tury by Giacomo della Porta. The 
Coronation of the Virgin is by 
Annibal Caracci ; the St Margaret, 
a copy of an original of the same 
artist, by his pupil Massari ; Scipio 
Gaetano painted over the third altar 
the Assumption of the Blessed Vir- 
gin. The frescoes over the high 
altar are by Frederic Zuccari and 
RaflPael da Reggio. 

St Maria in Campitelli was bmlt 
at the public expense in 1658, from 
veneration for a miraculous image 
of the Madonna. In the interior 
are pilasters and twenty-two fluted 
Corinthian columns. The paintings 
are by Conca, Giordano, Gemig- 
nani, and Boccaccio. 

Portico of Octavia. — This portico, 
built by Augustus, was in the form 
of a parallelogram, having a double 
row of columns 360 feet in extent, 
and the temples of Jupiter and Juno 
in the centre. The fragments pre- 
served in the Capitol convey an 
exact idea of its form and size. Ac- 
cording to Pliny and Pausanius, it 
was decorated with several monu- 
ments of art, particularly with the 
Cupid of Praxiteles, all which were 
consumed by fire under Titus. The 
portico was restored by Severus and 
by CaracaUa, and later in the fifth 
century. 

The part still existing was for- 
merly one of the chief entrances ; it 
had an interior and an exterior 
front, each supported by four fluted 
columns, and two pilasters of the 
Corinthian order. Of one of these 
fronts only two columns and a 
pilaster remain ; of the other, two 
columns and two pilasters. They 
support an entablature terminating 
in a pediment. 

Under the portico is the little 
church of St Angelo in Pescheria, 



belonging to the Fishmongers' com- 
pany. The painting over the altar 
of St Andrew is by Vasari. 

In the lane leading to the church 
of St Catherine are remains of the 
temple of Juno Regina. These 
consist of three fluted columns of 
the composite order, with a part of 
the entablature. They now belong 
to a private dwelling. 

The Theatre of Marcellus, raised 
by Augustus, and so named from 
his nephew, the son of Octavia, was 
267 feet in diameter, and contained 
thirty thousand spectators. 

The interior was formed of large 
travertine blocks ; on the exterior 
were columns of three orders of 
architecture, one of which orders 
has disappeared. The remains of 
the other two consist of demi-co- 
lumns, Doric and Ionic. Their pro- 
portions serve as a model to mo- 
dern architects for the union of 
these orders. 

In the middle ages this monu- 
ment became a fortress of the Pier- 
leoni. To these succeeded the 
SaveUi; who built, on the designs of 
Peruzzi, the palace now occupied 
by a branch of the Orsini family. 

About the middle of the neigh- 
bouring lane, called Della Bufala, 
was the Porta Carmentalis of the 
first walls of Rome, and near it the 
Forrnn Ohtorium, or vegetable mar- 
ket, in which were three temples 
that faced the Capitol. Some re- 
mains of them are stiU visible. One 
of them, raised by Colatinus, in the 
year 500 of Rome, was dedicated to 
Hope, the second to Piety, in the 
year 559, and the third to Juno 
Matuta, in the year 571. The 
temple of Piety, raised in comme- 
moration of filial piety in this forum, 
stood on the site of the theatre of 
Marcellus. 

St Niccolb in Carcere. — This 
church, built in the ninth century, 
and since frequently restored, is 
divided int© three naves by fourteen 



688 



CENTRAL ITALY. — ROME. SIXTH DAY. 



antique columiis, varying in mate- 
rials and diameter. Under the altar 
is an antique urn of green porphyry 
with carvings of Medusa's head. 

The church of the Consolazione 
contains estimable compositions of 
Zuccari, Pomarancio, and RoncaUi ; 
it adjoins the hospital for the wound- 
ed of both sexes. 

In the churches of St Aloy de' Fer- 
rari and St John the Baptist are also 
numerous paintings by the same 
and by other artists. 

The Foruin Piscarium, or fish 
market, was in this quarter. 

SIXTH DAY. 

FROM THE VELABRUM TO THE 
FABRICIAN BRIDGE. 

Velabrvm. — The Yelabrum was a 
marsh formed by the overflowings 
of the river and by the waters that 
came from the Palatine and Aven- 
tine hills ; it still preserves its ap- 
pellation, though it was drained 
by the last kings of Rome, when 
they completed the cloaca maxima. 

At the foot of the Palatine was 
the Forum Boarium, or cattle mar- 
ket ; probably the original Roman 
tbrum, on which stood the bronze 
cow of Myron, brought from Egina. 
In its vicinity was the ara maxima, 
or altar, raised by Hercules after 
having killed Cacus, and the temple 
pf Hercules, discovered in the fif- 
teenth century, which contained 
his statue of gilded bronze, now in 
the Capitol. Tacitus asserts that 
it was at this spot that Romulus 
began to trace the furrows of his 
new city, 753 years before Christ. 

Janus Quadrifuns. — This is the 
only arch that remains of those 
called Jani, which served to shelter 
the people from the weather. In 
1829 it was cleared of aU the con- 
structions raised by the Frangipani 
when they converted it into a 
fortress in the thirteenth century. 
Each front presents an arch with 



small niches. This bmlding may 
be ascribed to the time of Severus. 

The Arch of Sept Indus Severus was 
erected, as is seen from the inscrip- 
tion, by the bankers and merchants 
of the Forum Boarium, in honour of 
Severus and his family. Its prin- 
cipal front is situated towards the 
west. Under the arch are repre- 
sented Severus and Julia his wife, 
bearing the caducous, or a symbol 
of concord, and performing a sacri- 
fice with Caracalla and Geta, whose 
figure was effaced after his death, 
but of which traces are visible. 
Under these bas-reliefs are others of 
sacred utensils, sacrifices, prisoners 
accompanied by Roman soldiers, 
and men driving oxen, aUuding to 
one of the trades that raised this 
moniunent. 

The church of St Giorgio in 
Velabro was built in the fom'th cen- 
tury. It is proved by an inscrip- 
tion preserved there that the portico 
was added, and the church restored, 
in the thirteenth century. It is di- 
vided into three naves by sixteen 
columns, four of which are of violet 
coloured marble. 

The cloaca maxima was com- 
menced by Tarquinius Prisons, and 
finished by his son Tarquinius 
Superbus, who drained into this 
channel the waters of the Vela- 
brum. 

The vault is formed of three 
layers of large blocks of tufa 
united at certain distances by blocks 
of travertine stone, without mortar 
or cement. The arch is twelve feet 
in height and twelve in breadth, 
thus justifying the assertion of 
Pliny, that a car, loaded with hay, 
could easily pass within the aper- 
ture. Its length from the forum to 
the Tiber is 2,500 feet ; its mouth at 
the river is between the Palatine 
bridge and the temple of Vesta. It 
is remarked by Dionysius, Strabo, 
and other authors, that the cloacas, 
the aqueducts, and the high roads, 



ROMAN STATES. — ^EOME. SIXTH DAT. 



689 



were alone sufladent to place the 
Eomans in the first rank amongst 
nations. 

Following the declivity of the 
Palatine we arrive at the ancient 
church of St Anastasia, restored by 
sundry popes, near which was the 
ancient ara maxima. A very an - 
cient Christian altar is preserved 
here. In the interior are eight 
violet, two red granite, and two 
Africano columns. 

In the Murcian valley, situated 
between the Palatine and Aven- 
tine, and at the foot of the palace 
of the C^Bsars, was 

The Circm Maximus.— This spot 
was selected by Romulus to cele- 
brate games in honour of Neptune 
(surnamed Consus), they were 
hence called Consualia ; at these 
was effected the rape of the Sabine 
women. To commemorate this 
event the subterranean altar of 
Consus was erected in the circus ; 
it was micovered for the sacrifice 
before the games commenced, and 
then covered again with earth. 
Tarquinius Priscus built the circus, 
which from its size received the 
appellation of maximus. The cir- 
censes, or games of the circus, were 
the favourite amusement of the 
Romans. They consisted princi- 
pally of chariot races, each chariot 
having two or four horses, and of 
various athletic games. Dionysius 
of Halicarnassus, who visited this 
circus after its enlargement under 
Julius Caesar, says, that it was 
three and half stadii, or nearly half 
a mile, in length, four plethre, or 
400 feet, in breadth, and that it 
could contain 150,000 persons. It 
was greatly injured by the fire 
which occurred under Nero, but 
being restored by Vespasian and 
by Trajan, it could hold 250,000 
persons. It was further enlarged 
under Constantine ; and according 
to the notice of the empire it then 
afforded room for 405,000. 
The circus was of an oblong 



form ; one of the ends was semi- 
circular, the other a gentle curve. 
At the semicircular end was the 
grand entrance ; at the curve were 
the carceres or starting place. In 
the middle was the spina, a long 
narrow platform covered with arge, 
statues, columns, and two obehsks; 
at the extremities were the metse, 
round which it was necessary that 
the cari should pass seven times 
before they were entitled to the prize. 

A triple line of porticoes placed 
over each other, and numerous 
rows of seats as in the theatres and 
amphitheatres, were destined for 
the spectators. At the foot of the 
podium, appropriated in all these 
places of public amusement to the 
dignitaries of the empire, was a 
canal, called the Euripus, nine feet 
in breadth and depth, added by 
Julius Caesar, 

Although originally destined for 
the chariot races, yet wrestling, 
pugilistic games, foot racing, the 
hunting of wild beasts, and other 
manly exercises, were practised in 
the circus. It was on this spot, 
according to Aulus GeUius, that 
Androcles, condemned to fight in 
the games, was recognized by 
the lion from whose foot he had 
extracted a thorn in Africa ; the 
animal licked his hands and spared 
his life. 

Besides the great circus there 
existed several others in Rome: 
the Flaminian, that of Flora, the 
Sallustian, those of Caligula, Adrian, 
Heliogabalus, Alexander Severus, 
and Romulus, son of Maxentius; 
this last is situated on the Appian 
way. 

Beyond a rivulet caUed the Mar- 
ran a are the ruins of the 

Thermce of Caracalla. — The Em- 
peror Antonius CaracaUa com- 
menced these thermae in 212, and 
finished them in the 217th year of 
the Christian era. Porticoes were 
afterwards added by Heliogabalus 
and Alexander Severus. Their 



690 



CENTRAL ITALY. — ROME. SIXTH DAT. 



magnificence has been extolled by 
Spartian, Sextus Victor, and by 
Olympiodorus, who says that they 
contained 1,600 bathing places. 
The period of the destruction of 
this splendid edifice was during 
the wars between the Goths and 
the Greeks in the sixth century. 

In the excavations made in the 
sixteenth and seventeenth cen- 
turies, the torso of the Belvidere, 
the Farnese Hercules, the Farne- 
sine Flora, the group of the Farnese 
bull, the three last now at Naples, 
and several hundred statues, more 
or less injured, were found in these 
ruins. 

The form of the edifice was a 
square, measuriag 1,050 feet on each 
side. In the centre was a building 
690 feet high, 450 wide, isolated ia 
an extensive court used for public 
exercises; a kiad of theatre was 
placed on the hill to the south- 
west. The front was at the north- 
east, where numerous chambers, 
still visible, were occupied by the 
guards and slaves attached to the 
establishment ; a common entrance 
led into a large arched portico lead- 
ing to the baths, and six staircases 
placed at sundry distances to the 
court containing the central edifice. 

Later excavations have produced 
mosaics of porphyry, serpentine, 
giallo antico, porta santa, white 
marble, and lava; the designs pre- 
sent a variety of forms and bril- 
liancy of colours, but are inferior 
in workmanship to those of the 
courts for exercises, representing 
gymnasiarchs and athletae; these 
last are now in the Lateran palace. 

This part of the thermae was dis- 
tributed into two courts surroimded 
with porticoes, which served for the 
gymnastic exercises. Near this 
was a large central haU called the 
Pinacotheca, in which were eight 
enormous granite columns ; a round 
hall at the south-west, opposite the 
theatre; and the great piscina, 188 
feet long and 134 broad, which had 



nine channels for the passage of the 
water. The lower part of the walls 
was covered with a mastich called 
opus signinum, which rendered 
them impenetrable to water. At 
each end of the court are remains 
of two octagonal halls, near which 
were discovered, in 1777, the two 
basaltic baths now in the Vatican 
museum. 

The church of St Nereo and St 
Achilleo was erected in 524, and 
rebuilt ia 1596. Four columns of 
Africano marble support the balda- 
chin of the altar, near which are 
two ambones. In the tribune is 
the presbyterial chain used by St 
Gregory I. 

The church of St Sixtus is situ- 
ated in the 

VaUey of Egeria. — This valley, 
celebrated according to ancient 
tradition as the spot where Numa 
consulted the goddess Egeria, is 
between the Caelian mount and a 
hiU called Monte d'Oro, yet it has 
been placed by modern writers at 
a distance of three miles from the 
city. From a comparison of pas- 
sages of ancient authors, and par- 
ticularly of Juvenal where he de- 
scribes the journey of Umbricius, it 
is evident that this valley was near 
the Porta Capena, which was situat- 
ed in this direction. 

On a hill to the right, overlooking 
the church of St Cesareo, was the 
temple of Mars extra muros, and 
on the ancient Via Appia, in the 
VignaSassi, is 

The Tovih of the Scipws, discover- 
ed in 1790, and composed of two 
stories; the first, still existing, is a 
large subterranean chamber dug 
out of the tufa; of the second, in 
which were semi-columns of the 
Ionic order, and niches occupied by 
the statues of the Scipios, and by 
that of the poet Ennius, nothing 
remains. The following objects, 
found in his tomb, are now in the 
Vatican musemn; the sarcophagus 
of Lucius Scipio Barbatus, con- 



ROMAN STATES. EOME. SIXTH DAY. 



69 i 



queror of the Samnites and Luca- 
nians, before the first Punic war; a 
bust crowned with laurel, supposed 
to be that of the poet Ennius, pro- 
bably of one of the Scipios ; another 
in whit€ marble of an unknown 
personage, and several inscriptions. 
Copies of these occupy the places 
of the originals in this monument, 
so interesting from its antiquity, 
and for its having been the tomb of \ 
the family to whom Rome owed 
the conquest of Carthage. 

In the same vineyard is the co- 
lumbarium of Hylas and Vitalina, 
destined, like other monuments 
of this nature, to receive the 
ashes of the slaves and eman- 
cipated freedmen, who were gene- 
rally buried on the lands or near 
the tombs of their masters : several 
small niches were filled with the 
vases called ollae, which contained 
the bones and ashes collected at the 
funeral pile. In front of these 
niches were inscriptions (tituli) 
with the names, rank, and profes- 
sion of the deceased. These colum- 
baria were raised on the sides of the 
high roads, and particularly on the 
Latin and Appian ways. 

The first inscription is that of 
Hylas and of Vitalina, the pro- 
prietors; the others of persons at- 
tached to the court of Augustus 
and Tiberius. 

On the Appian way is the arch 
of Drusus, raised by the senate to 
the father of the Emperor Claudius. 
The canal and arcades stiU visible 
on the upper part and at the side 
of this monument are part of the 
aqueduct used by CaracaUa to 
supply waters for his thermae. 

Porta Appia, or St Sebastian, — 
This gate was substituted in place 
of the Porta Capena when the city 
was enlarged ; it derived its appel- 
lation from the Appian way, which 
was paved with large blocks of stone 
by the censor Appius Claudius in 
the 442nd year of Rome, and was 
the most magnificent of aU those 



opened by the Romans. It was 
repaired by Augustus when he 
drained the Pontine marshes, by 
Vespasian, Domitian, Nerva, and 
by Trajan. It united with the 
Latin way at the Casiline bridge, 
near Capua. The present name of 
the gate is taken from the basilic 
of St Sebastian, two miles distant. 

A quarter of a mile from the gate 
is the Almo, a stream supplied by 
various springs five and six miles 
distant from the city ; according to 
Ovid, the priests of Cybele annually 
washed in this stream the statue of 
that goddess and the utensils used 
in her worship. 

Opposite the little church of 
" Domine quo vadis," are the ruins 
of the tomb of PrisciUa, the wife of 
Abascanthus, mentioned by Statins ; 
and further on are several tombs, 
and an extensive columbarium, 
supposed to be that of the slaves of 
Augustus. 

In the Casali vineyard several 
inscriptions were found in 1826 re- 
lative to the Volusia family, one of 
the most distinguished of ancient 
Rome ; and near this spot a marble 
sarcophagus, of fine composition 
and well preserved, the bas-relief of 
which represents a battle between 
the Gauls and Romans. 

In another vineyard, to the left of 
a lane diverging from the main road, 
a large sepulchral chamber was dis- 
covered in 1726. It was appro- 
priated to the bondsmen of Livia 
Augusta, and contained numerous 
vases and cinerary vases with their 
inscriptions, all of which are now 
in the gallery of the Capitol. 

The Church of St Sebastian, 
built over the cemetery of St Calix- 
tus, is one of the seven basihcs of 
Rome; it was rebuilt in 1611 by 
Cardinal Scipio Borghese on the 
designs of Flaminio Ponzio. The 
high altar is adorned with four fine 
columns of verde antico, and over 
the doors are figures of saints 
paiuted by Antonio Caracci. The 



€92 



CENTRAL ITALY. — ROME. SIXTH DAT. 



statue of St Sebastian is by Gior- 
getti, from a model of Bernini. 

A staircase leads from the church 
to the catacombs, dug in the form 
of corridors or galleries. These 
excavations, from which sand or 
arena, now called pazzolana, was 
taken for the purpose of construc- 
tion, were formerly called arenaria. 
They were enlarged by the Chris- 
tians, who in the times of the per- 
secution practised here the exer- 
cises of religion and buried their 
dead. The ancient ecclesiastical 
authors assert that fourteen popes 
and 170,000 Christians were buried 
here; and that the bodies of St 
Sebastian, of the apostles Peter and 
Paul, were deposited during a certain 
period in these catacombs. 

On the left of the road are the 
ruins of a villa, ascertained by late 
excavations to be that of Maxentius, 
built in the year 3 1 1 of the Christian 
era. One of the most remarkable 
monuments of this villa on the Ap- 
pian way is the 

Temple of Romulus.— The plan of 
this building is an oblong square, 
surrounded with a waU, with a por- 
tico of arcades and pilasters in the 
interior. In the centre was the 
temple, of which only the subter- 
ranean part now remains. Palladio, 
from whom these particulars are 
derived, has proved that this temple 
was one of those called prostyle ; 
that it had a rectilinear portico 
with six columns, that the entrance 
was romid, and that the edifice was 
seen from the Appian way. The 
subterraneous parts of the portico 
are well preserved ; the waUs are 
about fourteen feet thick ; the 
diameter of the subterranean cella 
nearly 100 ; it is encircled with 
niches, and in its centre is a large 
octagonal pillar supporting the 
roof. 

As this temple is of a construc- 
tion similar to that of the circus, 
which is ascertained by numerous 
inscriptions found in the. late exca- 



vations to have been that of Eo- 
mulus, the son of Maxentius, and as 
the medals struck after his death 
bear on the reverse a round temple, 
this edifice may safely be considered 
as dedicated to the same per- 
sonage. 

Behind the wall of the large 
square court, opposite the carceres 
of the circus, is a small unknown 
tomb of more ancient construction. 

The Circus, known during cen- 
turies under the name of Caracalla, 
was proved by the excavations made 
by the duke Torlonia in 1825 to be 
that of Eomulus, the son of Max- 
entius. Three inscriptions bear the 
name of Maxentius ; the one best 
preserved, placed under the entrance 
door, is as follows : 

DIVO. ROMVLO. N.M.V. 

COS. ORD. II. FIHO 

D. N. MAXKNTII. INVICT. 

VIRI. ET. PERP. AVG. NEPOTI 

T. DIVI. MAXIMIANI. SENI 

ORIS. AG. BIS. AUGrUSTI. 

Thus illustrating the anonymous 
writer, a contemporary of Maxen- 
tius, published by Eccard, who says 
that this emperor erected a circus 
in catecumbis, or near the cata- 
combs. 

The circus being well preserved 
is one of the most interesting monu- 
ments near Kome. Its length is 
1,700, its breadth 260 feet ; the 
carceres, circus, and spina are dis- 
tinctly visible. The carceres are 
divided into thirteen arches ; the cir- 
cus in the distribution of the seats re- 
sembled other edifices of this sort ; 
the spina was 300 feet long, twenty- 
two wide, and from two to five high. 

Cecilia Metella. — This sepulchral 
monument, 100 feet in diameter, is 
of a circular form, built of large 
blocks of travertine ; its walls are 
of the extraordinary thickness of 
thirty -five feet. In its interior was 
found, under Paul III, the marble 
sarcophagus now placed in the court 
of the Parnese palace. 

On the top of the monument is 
inscribed — 



ROMAN STATES. — £OM£. SIXTH DAT. 



693 



CAECILIAE 

Q. CRETICI. F. 

M£T£LLA£. CRASSI. 

Over which is a marble frieze 
finely executed and adorned with 
bucrania or bulls' heads and fes- 
toons. 

The upper constructions are of 
the year 1299, when the Caetani 
family transformed this tomb into 
a fortress. 

Monument of Servilius. — ^Beyond 
the tomb of MeteUa are remains of 
the ancient pavement of the Appian 
way, which at this point was four- 
teen feet broad, and was crowded 
with numerous sepulchral monu- 
ments now altogether unknown ; 
some fragments, however, found in 
an excavation made in 1808 indi- 
cate that on this spot was the tomb 
of Servilius Quartus. 

Near the farm called Eoma 
Vecchia are remains of a quadran- 
gular wall built of large blocks of 
peperino or alban stone, some being 
ten feet long. This spot, it would 
appear from Martial, was the sacred 
field of the Horatii, and near it, at 
the fossae Cluilias, tradition places 
the combat between the Horatii 
and Curiatii. 

Villa of the Quintilii. — The mass 
of ruins known under the name 
of Roma Vecchia are those of a 
country house of the second cen- 
tury of the Christian era, belonging 
to Cordinus and Maximus Quintili, 
as is proved by the following in- 
scription observed on several pipes 
of lead : ii. qvintiliorvm, condini 
ET siAxiMi. The two brothers were 
put to death by the Emperor Com- 
modus, who appropriated to himself 
their extensive property. Several 
statues, bas-reliefs, columns, and 
fragments were found here in 1828; 
reservoirs of water, a fountain, an 
aqueduct, two large halls for bath- 
ing, and a small amphitheatre, may 
be traced among the ruins. 

Near the circus of Romulus is 



the temple of Bacchus, ascertained 
by a Greek inscription on an ara of 
Bacchus mentioned by Holstenius. 

The portico is supported by four 
white fluted Corinthian columns, 
taken from some edifice of the time 
of the Antonines ; on the right 
hand is seen the altar of Bacchus 
with its Greek inscription and the 
Dionysiac serpent. In the eleventh 
century it became a church, and 
was afterwards dedicated to St 
Urban. 

In the valley of the Caffarella is 
the Nymphseum, hitherto consi- 
dered as the fountain of Egeria, 
known from Juvenal and Symma- 
chus to have been near the Capena 
gate. These nymphae are frequently 
seen in the villas of the ancients, 
who dedicated them to rivers, 
fountains, and Naiads. 

This edifice of reticular brick 
work had several niches occupied 
by statues. The pavement, two feet 
lower than the present level, was co- 
vered with serpentine, the walls with 
verde antico, and the niches with 
white marble. At the furthest end 
of the grotto is a recumbent statue, 
probably that of the Almo. The 
style of the building is of the time 
of Vespasian. 

In the same valley, half a mile 
from this Nymphaeum, in the direc- 
tion of the city, is the 

Temple or Fanum Rediculi. — When 
Annibal raised the siege of Rome a 
field and fanum were consecrated 
to the Genius of Return ; but its 
position is stated by Phny to have 
been on the Appian way, two miles 
from the Capena gate ; this little 
temple was probably dedicatea to 
the river Almo, which flows at its 
base. The brick construction re- 
sembles that of the aqueducts near 
the Porta Maggiore of the time of 
Nero. 

Its pilasters have small apertures 
in the centre, and two octagonal 
half columns are placed on the 

N 



694 



CENTRAL ITALY. — ROME. SLXTH DAT. 



side that faces a cross road, con- 
necting the Appian and Latin ways. 

Keturning to the Appian way, 
and following the road near the 
church of St Sebastian for the dis- 
tance of two miles, is the 

Basilic of St Paul. — This church 
was built by Constantine in a farm 
belonging to Lucina, a Koman ma- 
tron, over the cemetery in which 
St Paul was buried. It was rebuilt 
and enlarged in 386 by Valentinian 
II and Theodosius, completed by 
Honorius, and restored by several 
popes. On the night of the 15th 
July, 1823, the greater part of this 
basilic, and in particular the roof, 
the central nave, and the doors, 
were consumed by fire. It is al- 
ready in great part rebuilt, with 
some slight deviations from its ori- 
ginal structure. 

The ancient front which still re- 
mains is adorned with mosaic of the 
thirteenth century. The interior 
was 240 feet long (without reckon- 
ing the tribune), 138 feet wide, and 
its five naves were separated by 132 
columns, thirty- six feet high, and 
eleven in circumference, taken in 
part from the .^milian basilic. 
The columns supporting the grand 
arch of the tribune were twenty-two 
feet high, and five in diameter ; the 
altars were decorated with thirty 
porphyry columns, which were 
also injured by the flames. 

The ancient mosaics have been 
preserved ; that over the great arch 
of the principal nave, made under 
St Leo in 440, represents our Saviour 
with the twenty-four ancients of the 
apocalypse and the apostles Peter 
and Paul. On the upper part of the 
great nave was the series of portraits 
of the popes from St Peter to Pius 
VII, the 253rd pontiff. 

Under the high altar, which was 
greatly injured, are parts of the 
bodies of St Peter and St Paul. 
In the tribune is a mosaic of the 
thirteenth century. 



Adjoining the basilic is a monas~ 
tery ; its cloister is surrounded with 
arcades built in 1220, within which 
are several ancient inscriptions. 

St Paul at the Three Foun ains- — 
Three churches were raised by the 
ancient Christians on this spot, ■ 
called ad aquas Salvias. That 
erected where St Paul suffered mar- 
tyrdom was restored in 1590 by 
Cardinal Aldobrandini on the de- 
signs of Giacomo della Porta ; it 
contains the three springs of Avater 
which are said to have appeared at 
the three bounds of the apostle's 
head. 

In the church dedicated to St 
Vincent and Anastasius in 624 are 
frescoes of the twelve apostles from 
the designs of Raphael. 

The third church, dedicated to 
the Madonna under the denomina- 
tion of St Maria Scala Coeli, and 
restored by Cardinal Alexander Far- 
nese on the designs of Vignola, is 
of an octagonal form, terminated 
by a cupola. It contains a mosaic 
hy Zucca. a Florentine, the first 
good modern work of the kind. 

Po7^ta St Paolo. — When the v/alis 
of the city were enlarged the pre- 
sent gate was substituted for those 
called the Trigemina, Minucia, Na- 
valis, and Lavernalis ; it was rebuilt 
by Belisarius, eighteen feet above 
the more ancient level. 

Pyramid of Cains Cestius. — This 
sepulchral monument, in the form 
of a quadrangular pyramid, was 
built in 330 days, as is ascertained « 
by the inscription, and is covered 
with marble one foot in thickness. 
Its height is 125 feet, each front is 
seventy-five, and the mass of the 
building twenty -five feet thick; the 
sepulchral chamber is twenty feet 
long, twelve wide, and fifteen high. 
Caius Cestius was one of the seven 
Epulones who prepared the epula 
or banquets for the gods ; this cere* 
mony, called lectisternium, was prac- 
tised in the temples in case of 



ROMAN STATES, — ROME. SIXTH DAT. 



695 



si^inal victories, or of public 
calamities. 

This pyramid was restored by- 
Alexander VII, when the columns 
placed at the western angles, the 
bronze foot now in the Capitol, and 
two pedestals, were discovered, bear- 
ing the same inscription, and show- 
ing that Cestius was a contempo- 
rary of Agrippa. 

Near this pyramid is the Protes- 
tant burying ground. 

Testaccio.—The origin of this hill, 
which is not mentioned by any of 
the ancient authors, may be attri- 
buted to fragments of vase of terra 
cotta, called testa in Latin. Its 
height is 163, and its circumference 
4,503 feet. 

Not far from this hill is an arch 
called that of St Lazarus from the 
adjoining hermitage; it probably 
formed part of the public granaries 
placed in this quarter. 

In the neighbouring Vigna Cesa- 
rini are ruins of the ancient 

Navalia, so called from the spot 
where vessels touched, and mer- 
chandise was landed ; other ruins 
in small tufa polygons of the seventh 
century of Rome probably belonged 
to the arsenal. In the middle ages 
this side of the river was called the 
Ripa Grseca, and that opposite 
Ripa Romsea. 

Pons Sublicius. — This bridge, the 
first thrown over the Tiber under 
Ancus Martins, is celebrated for 
the action of Horatius Codes, who 
alone withstood on it the army of 
Porsenna. It was afterwards called 
the ^milian when rebuilt in stone 
by ^mUius Lepidus, censor under 
Augustus. Having been restored 
by Antoninus Pius, it was after- 
wards carried away in the year 780 
in an extraordinary inundation of 
the river. 

The ancient salines or salt ware- 
houses, and the Porta Trigemina of 
TuUius, were near this bridge. 

The Aventine. — This hill is in the 
form of a pentagon, 10,800 feet in 



circumference, or niearly eighteen 
stadia, the measurement assigned to 
it by Dionysius of Halicarnassus, 
and is forty-two metres above the 
level of the sea. Several etymolo- 
gies of its name are given in ancient 
authors ; ab adventu, from the arrival 
of the people of Latiura at the tem- 
ple of Diana ; Avens, a river in the 
territory of Rieti, an ancient Pelas- 
gian city ; and Aventinus, king of 
Alba, who was buried on the spot. 

It first formed a part of Rome 
under Ancus Martins, who des- 
tined it for the residence of the 
Latin tribes, whom he had subju- 
gated, and principally of the inha- 
bitants of Politorium, Tellene, and 
Ficana, but it is known from Taci- 
tus that it was not enclosed in the 
PomsBrium before the reign of Clau- 
dius. 

The principal edifices raised on 
the Aventine were the temples of 
Diana, of Juno Regina, the Bona 
Dea and Minerva, the armilustrium, 
the atrium of Liberty, the palaces of 
Sura and of Trajan, the thermae of 
Varius and Decius. These edifices 
have all nearly disappeared. 

St Maria Aventina. — This church 
was built in the thirteenth century, 
restored by Pius V, and reduced to 
its present state by Cardinal Rezzo- 
nico, in 1765, from the designs of 
Piranesi, who united in its decora- 
tion various ornaments of antiquity . 
As it belongs to the knights of Malta 
it is known as the priory; it com- 
mands a fine view of Rome, and of 
the environs. The temple of the 
Bona Dea was near this spot on 
the declivity of the hill. 

St Alexius. — Near St Alexius was 
the armilustrium, a name derived 
from the exercises of the soldiers 
and the games they celebrated in 
honour of Mars and Tatius. This 
church is anterior to the ninth 
century ; it became an abbey in 
975, was reconsecrated in 1217, and 
now belongs to the monks of St 
Jerome. 



696 



CENTRAL ITALY. — ROME. SIXTH DAT. 



St Sabina was built over the 
house of the father of this saint 
near the temple of Juno Regina, 
erected by Camillus, after the cap- 
ture of Veii. 

Its foundation is due to an lUy- 
rian priest named Peter, in 425, as is 
seen from a mosaic inscription over 
the principal door. It was restored 
by several popes, and finally by 
Sixtus V, in 1587. It is divided into 
three naves by twelve fluted Corin- 
thian columns on each side. In the I 
chapel of the smallest nave is a | 
master-piece of Sassoferrata, repre- 
senting the Virgin of the Eosary, 
St Dominic and St Catherine of 
Sienne. 

StPrisca. — This church, it is said, 
was built over the house of St Pris- 
ca, who, according to tradition, was 
converted to the faith, and baptized 
with many others on this spot, by 
St Peter himself. It contains twen- 
ty-four antique columns, frescoes by 
Fontebuoni, and a painting by Pas- 
signani. 

In the vineyard opposite were the 
temples of Diana erected by Servius 
Tullius and Minerva Aventinensis. 
St Maria in Cosmedin, is built 
on the ruins of the temple of Ceres 
and Proserpine. A part of the 
cella, with its large blocks of traver- 
tine, and seven columns of the peri- 
style, seven feet in circumference, 
and of the composite order, are still 
visible. According to Tacitus, this 
edifice was consecrated a second 
time by Tiberius. 

Adrian I rebuilt this church in 
782, which is also called the Bocca 
della Verita, from a large piece of 
round marble, in the form of a mask, 
having its eyes and mouth wide 
open, placed under the portico. 

The interior of this church is di- 
vided into three naves by twelve 
antique columns, and the pavement 
is formed of the ancient mosaic 
called opus Alexandrinum. It con- 
tains also two ambones, a marble 
pontifical seat, an image of the 



Virgin brought from Greece, and 
under the altar an urn of Egyptian 
granite filled with relics. 

Temple of Vesta. — ^It has already 
been observed that the temple of 
Vesta erected by Numa, in which 
the palladium was preserved, was 
situated in the forum, at the foot of 
the Palatine. The present temple, 
like those that existed in each 
curia, appears to have been restored 
in the second century of our era; 
nineteen columns of white marble, 
forming a circumference of 170 feet, 
constitute the exterior portico ; 
their height, including base and ca- 
pital, is thirty- six feet; their dia- 
meter three, that of the cella thirty- 
six. 

The Temple of Fortuna Virilis, 
now called St Maria Egiziaca, was 
built by Servius Tullius, the sixth 
king of Kome, and was changed 
into a church in 972. 

Its form is that of an oblong 
square, with four front and seven 
side columns of the Ionic order, 
twenty-eight feet high. They 
support an entablature ornamented 
with festoons, genii, candelabra, and 
bulls' heads. 

Opposite this is the 

House of Nicholas de Rienzo, 
presenting a capricious assemblage 
of antique fragments of different 
periods, a specimen of Roman archi- 
tecture of the eleventh century. It 
belonged to Nicholas, the son of 
Crescentius, whose family was then 
powerful at Rome. Over the . 
ancient door, which is now closed, 
is an inscription written in the 
twelfth century, in Latin rhyme, 
indicating "that Nicholas, the son 
of Crescentius and of Theodora, 
gave this house to his son David." 
It is said that in 1347 it fell into 
the possession of the celebrated 
Cola di Rienzo, the Roman tribune, 
from whom it derives its present 
appellation. 

Palatine Bridge. — During the first 
six centuries of her existence Rome 



ROMAK STATES. — ROME. SEVENTH DAY. 



697 



had only two bridges, the Sublician 
and the Palatine ; the latter, so 
called from the neighbouring Pala- 
tine hill, was finislied under the 
censors Scipio Africanus and Lu- 
cius Mumraius. 

It was restored by Gregory IX, 
in the thirteenth, and by Julius III, 
in the sixteenth century. Having 
suffered an inundation imder Gre- 
gory XIII it was rebuilt in 1575, 
but part of it was carried away by 
the waters in 1598 ; it has not 
since been repaired. 

At the foot of this bridge the 
view embraces the Aventine with 
the grotto of Cacus, the remains of 
the Sublician bridge, the Prata 
Murcia, the situation of the camp 
of Porsenna, the mouth of the 
Cloaca, the island of Esculapius, 
the Fabrician bridge, that of Gra- 
tian and the Janiculum, the site of 
many of the principal facts of 
Koman history from the kings to 
the decline of the western empire. 



SEVENTH DAY. 

li-ROM THE FABRICIAN TO THE 
.xELIAN BRIDGE. 

Trastevere, on the right bank of 
the Tiber, was added to the city by 
Ancus Martins, who fortified it in 
order to repel the incursions of the 
Etruscans. Its first inhabitants 
were the people of Latium, con- 
quered by that king. 

The Fabrician bridge, now Quat- 
tro Capi, was built, as is proved 
from Dio, and the inscriptions over 
the arches by Fabricius, curator 
viarura, in the 690th year of Rome. 
It is formed of three arches, and 
leads to the 

Island of the Tiber. — After the 
expulsion of the last Tarquin the 
senate granted all his property to 
the people, who, as ancient story 
reports, threw into tlie river the 
wheat grown on his fields; but the 
enormous mass being sufficiently 



dense to resist the current, formed 
a small island, which was after- 
wards fortified and inhabited. 

In the year 461 of Rome, when 
the plague raged with violence in 
the city, the senate sent deputies 
to the temple of Esculapius at 
Epidaurus, who returned with a 
serpent which disappeared in this 
island. A temple was erected to 
Esculapius on the spot now occu- 
pied by the church of 

St JBartolomeo. — The interior is 
divided into three naves by twenty- 
four columns of granite, said to 
have belonged to the ancient tem- 
ple. The island contained also the 
temple of Faun and Lyaconian 
Jupiter. 

Ponte Graziano. - This bridge, 
now called St Bartolomeo, was 
built, as is ascertained from the 
inscriptions on the parapets, in the 
year 467 of the present era, by the 
emperors Valentinian Valens and 
Gratian. 

The Church of St Cecilia, occu- 
pying the site of the house of that 
saint, was consecrated in 250 by 
Urban I, restored in 821 by Pas- 
qual I, and given by Clement VIII 
to the Benedictine nuns, who an- 
nexed to it an extensive convent. 
The large marble vase in the court 
is one of those called canthari, 
which were placed in the courts of 
the Christian churches, and served 
for the ablution of the faithful. 

The church has three naves ; 
over the high altar is a baldaquin, 
supported by four aquitaine cot' 
lurans ; under it is a beautiful statue 
of St Cecily, by Maderno ; the 
pavement is of alabaster and pre- 
cious stones ; antique mosaics adorn 
the tribune. Near the chapel of 
the Crucifix is a chamber painted 
by Paul Brill, on which St Cecily 
is said to have sufiered martyrdom. 

Ripa Grande. — The port and 
custom house were built by Inno- 
cent XII, in 1692, for the reception 
of merchandize brought by vessels 



698 



CENTRAL ITALY. — ROME. iSEVENTH DAY. 



which ascend the river a distance 
of twenty -four miles from the sea. 

In the vicinity, afterwards called 
Prata Mutia, from the deeds of 
Mutius ScEevola, Porsenna had 
placed his camp, and Clelia with 
her companions swam over the 
Tiber when escaping from the 
Etruscans. 

*S'^ Michele. — This establishment 
was founded by Innocent XII, in 
1686, to receive and instruct 
poor children in the mechanical 
and fine arts, and offer an asylum 
to male and female invalids. It 
contains a woollen and silk manu- 
factory, and one for tapestry in the 
style of the Gobelins. 

Porta Portese — This gate was 
substituted, in 1643, by Urban VIII 
for the ancient Porta Portuensis, 
built by Arcadius and Honorius, in 
402, when they restored the walls 
of the city. 

The church of St Francis was 
given to St Francis in 1229, and 
restored by Cardinal Pallavicini on 
the designs of Rossi. In the chapel 
to the right of the high altar is a 
fine painting of the Madonna, 
Child, and St Anne, by Boccaccio. 

After passing the churches of 
the forty martyrs and St Calixtus, 
we arrive at that of 

St Maria in Trastevere. — It is 
said that the ancient Taberna 
Meritoria, a kind of asylum for 
soldiers after a certain period of 
service, was situated on this spot ; 
and that Pope Calixtus, in 224, 
obtained leave of the Emperor 
Alexander Severus to erect here an 
oratory, which was the first public 
place of Christian worship at Rome. 
It was restored by St Julius in 
340, and afterwards enlarged by 
Innocent II, Nicholas V, and Cle- 
ment XI, who added the present 
portico, Avhich contains many an- 
cient inscriptions. 

The interior is divided into three 
naves by twenty-one large granite 
columns, exclusive of the four sup- 



porting a rich architrave, some 
having an Ionic, some a Corinthian 
capital. The Ionic capitals are 
highly wrought, and as they con- 
tain figures of Harpocrates, of Isis, 
and of Serapis, they probably be- 
longed to a temple dedicated to 
those Egyptian divinities. The 
pavement, like that of other ancient 
churches, is a mosaic of porphyry, 
serpentine, and other species of 
marble. 

On the ceiling is a beautiful 
painting of the Assumption, by 
Dominichino ; who, in the last 
chapel of the right nave, painted 
also a Child scattering Flowers. 
The high altar is isolated, and its 
baldachin is supported by four 
porphyry columns. The mosaics 
of the tribune, of the year 1143, 
represent our Saviour, the Virgin, 
and several saints ; those immedi- 
ately below, representing the Virgin 
and the twelve apostles^ are more 
modem. 

Among the sepulchral monu- 
ments in this church are those of 
Lanfranc the painter, and of Bottari 
and Nardini, two celebrated literary 
characters, 

St Grisogono. — In 1623 this an- 
cient church was restored by Cardi- 
nal Scipio Borghese, who added the 
portico supported by four red 
granite columns. The three naves 
of the interior are separated by 
granite columns of the Ionic order, 
taken from ancient monuments. 
The baldachin is supported by four 
of a rare quality of alabaster. On 
the ceiling is a copy of St Grysogo- 
nus carried up to Heaven, from the 
original of Guercino. 

St Maria della Scala. — Cardinal 
Cosimo, in 1592, erected this 
church, in order to place in it a 
miraculous image of the Vir- 
gin, taken from an adjoining 
house. The architecture of the 
front is by Mascherino; that of the 
interior by Francesco di Volterra. 
On the grand altar is a tabernacle, 



EOMAN STATES. — KOME. SEVEKTH DAT. 



699 



formed of precious stones, and de- ' 
corated with sixteen columns of 
oriental jasper. Tlie fresco paint- | 
ing of the Madonna in the choir ; 
is by the Cavalier d'Arpino. 

The Janicaluiii, so called from j 
Janus, a king of the Aborigines, | 
who built a city opposite to that of 
Saturn on the Capitohne ; this hill 
was comprised in the city under 
Ancus Martius. Livy asserts that 
two sarcophagi were found at the 
foot of the Janiculum, one said to 
contain the body of ISTuma Pompi- 
lius, and the other books; these 
alone were found, seven in Latin 
and seven in Greek, composed by 
that king. They were burnt by 
order of the senate, as containing 
pernicious doctrines. 

St Pietro in Montorio — Towards 
the close of the fifteenth century 
this church was rebuilt by Pii:telli, 
at the expense of Ferdinand lY, 
king of Spain ; it was restored 
under Pius VII. 

In the first chapel on the right 
is the Flagellation of Our Saviour, 
painted by Sebastian del Piombo, 
and designed by Michael Angelo. 
The Conversion of St Paul is by 
Vasari; over the high altar was 
the Transfiguration, now in the 
museum of the Vatican ; the statues 
of St Peter and St Paul are by 
Daniel di Volterra and Leonardo, 
of Milan, his pupil. 

On a spot adjoining this church, 
where, according to ancient tradi- 
tion, St Peter was crucified, is a 
small round temple, with sixteen 
columns of grey granite, designed 
by Bramante. 

The Fontana Paolina is the 
largest of the city, and supplies 
the greatest body of water, which 
is brought in part from the lakes 
of Bracciano and Martignano 
Between six Ionic columns of red 
granite, are five niches for the 
passage of the waters. It was 
raised by Paul V in 1612, with 



materials taken from the forum of 
Nerva. 

The portico of St Pancrazio, the 
ancient Janiculensis, was rebuilt by 
Urban VIII, when he surrounded 
Trastevere with walls. 

On the right of the Aurelian way 
is a villa, built in the form of a 
ship; in the upper gallery, eighty- 
seven feet long, and fourteen wide, 
are paintings by Pietro di Cortona, 
Allegrini,and Grimaldi. 

The church of St Pancrace Avas 
founded by St Symmachus in .oOO, 
over the catacombs of Calepodius, 
celebrated in ecclesiastical history, 
and in the acts of the martyrs. 

The villa Pamphili, now belong- 
ing to the Doria family, was laid 
out, under Innocent X, by Falda 
and by Argaldi, who built the 
palace. It contains groves, extensive 
alleys, a lake, waterfalls, and foun- 
tains decorated with antique statues 
and bas-reliefs. In a hemicycle is 
a marble faun, that plays on the 
flute, and an organ set in motion by 
water. 

In the palace are several antique 
busts, bas-reliefs, the statues of 
Euterpe, Marsyas, and of an Her- 
maphrodite ; several tombs and 
columbaria well preserved, with nu- 
merous interesting inscriptions, 
have been found of late years and 
are preserved in the villa. 

Palazzo Corsini. — This palace, 
situated in the Via Lungara, one of 
the most splendid palaces of Pome, 
contains a valuable collection of 
paintings, the principal of which 
are in the first room. The Ecce 
homo, a St Jerome, and a Sama- 
ritan, by Guercino ; Venus at her 
Toilet, by Albano ; Luther and 
Catherine Boren, by Holbein ; a 
Holy Family, by Garofalo; a Pre- 
sentation at the Temi)le, by Paul 
Veronese; and portrait of Philip II, 
by Titian. 

The second room contains a St 
Jerome, Paule III, and a Chace, by 



700 



CENTRAL ITALY. — ROME. SEVENTH DAT. 



Rubens ; a Noli me tangere of 
Boccaccio; the Crucifixion of St 
Peter, a St John the Baptist, the 
Herodias of Guido; an Annuncia- 
tion of Buonarotti; Madonnas by 
'Sasso Ferrata and Andrea del Sarto. 
In the third room are the Saviour, 
by Carlo Dolci; an Albano, a Schi- 
done, a Madonna of Innocenzo 
d'Imola ; St John ; and Madonna 
by Guido. 

In the fourth room are portraits 
by Holbein, Vandyke, a Doge of 
Venice, by Boccaccio; two Cardi 
nals, byDoniinichino; Innocent X, 
by Diego Velasquez; a Giorgione; 
the two sons of Charles V, Ferdi- 
nand I and Philip II, by Titian. 

In the fifth room is a view of 
the Borroraaean Isles, by Vanvitelli; 
a St Sebastian of Rubens; two bat- 
tles, byBorgognone; and the celebrat- 
ed Madonna and Child, by Murillo. 

In the last room is the Giant 
Titus, by Salvator Rosa 

The library is particularly rich 
in manuscripts and books printed 
in the fifteenth century 

At the end of the gardens, and 
on the rise of the Janiculum, is a 
villa belonging to the palace, raised 
on the spot forraerlj'^ occupied by 
the villa of Martial. 

Villa Lante. — According toVasari, 
Giulio Romano built this bouse 
for Mons. Turini, the intimate 
friend of Raphael, and one of the 
most distinguished prelates of the 
courts of Leo X and Clement VII. 

It formerly contained frescoes 
by Giulio and his pupils, which were 
engraved by Marc' Antonio, Agos- 
tino the Venetian, and other cele 
brated artists. These frescoes are 
now in the Villa Borghese. 

After the death of Mons. 
Turini, the villa passed into other 
hands. During the last century it 
belonged to the Lante family, who 
sold it in 1824 to Prince Borghese. 
It now belongs to the nuns of 
the Sacre Coeur de Jesus. 



Farncsina. — The Farnesina palace 
was built by Agostino Chigi, a 
banker, and patron of the fine arts 
under Leo X, on the designs of 
Peruzzi. In the sixteenth century 
it fell into the possession of the 
Farnese, and at the extinction of 
that house in 17-31, it became the 
property of the reigning family of 
Naples. 

This palace is interesting for 
the lightness and elegance of its 
architecture, and as containing the 
fable of Cupid and Psyche, painted 
in fresco from the original designs 
of Raphael, and under his direction. 
The subject taken from Apuleius 
is distributed as fallows ; the assem- 
bly of the gods, with Venus and 
Cupid, inform Jupiter of tlie pro 
jected nuptials; Mercury presents 
Psyche with the cup of ambrosia, 
the pledge of immortality ; the 
nuptials of Cupid and Psyche cele- 
brated in Olympus, and the general, 
banquet of the gods. 

Around the ceiling ten triangular 
paintings represent the events of 
the fable till the period of ttiejiup- 
tials. 

The first on the left of the 
entrance is Venus ordering her son 
to inspire Pysche with a passion for 
the vilest of mortals as a punish- 
ment for having dared to fail in 
love with him. 

2. Cupid presents Pysche to the 
Graces, the companions of Venus ; 
this painting is chiefly the work of 
Raphael. 

3. Venus quitting Juno and 
Ceres, who interpose in favour of 
Pysche ; in tlie following picture 
the goddess, in a moment of irrita- 
tion, mounts her car, drawn by four 
doves, and directs her course to 
Jupiter, whom she solicits to send 
Mercury in pursuit of Pysche. In 
the sixth painting Mercury pub- 
lishes the orders of the father of 
the gods, and the recompense pro- 
mised by Venus for the person of 



ROMAN STATES. — ROME. SEVENTH DAY. 



701 



Pysche, who returns from the in- 
fernal regions borne by three young 
Cupids ; she presents to the god- 
dess the vase of paint given by 
Proserpine to appease her anger ; 
Cupid complains to Jupiter of the 
cruelty of his mother, and obtains 
permission to marry Pysche, who 
is conducted to heaven for the nup- 
tials by Mercury. Near these 
paintings are the genii of the gods, 
or young Cupids, bearing their 
attributes in triumph, in allusion 
to the power of love, which subdues 
all things. 

In the adjoining chambar is 
Galatea carried by two dolphins, 
preceded by a Nereid, and followed 
by another carried by a Triton, the 
work of Raphael. 

The frescoes on the ceiling re- 
present Diana on her car drawn by 
oxen, and the fable of Medusa, by 
Daniel di Volterra and Sebastian 
del Piombo. The fine colossal head 
by Michael Angelo, existing in this 
chamber, served as an occupation 
while he was writing for Daniel 
his pupil, and was not intended, as 
has been asserted, as a criticism on 
the work of Raphael. 

The rooms on the first story con- 
tain frescoes of Peruzzi, of the 
school of Raphael, and of Sodom a. 

Along the Via Lungara are the 
churches of St Giacomo, of St Croce 
della Penitenza, of the Visitation, 
and of St Francis de Sales, all con- 
taining paintings on various reli- 
gious subjects. 

St Maria Regina Coeli was built 
in 1654 by Anne Colonna, who, at 
the death of her husband, retired 
to the monastery annexed to this 
church. It received its appellation 
from the anthem Regina Coeli lastare 
alleluia, which the Carmelite nuns 
are obliged to sing every four 
hours. 

The Palazzo Salviati was built 
on the designs of Baccio d'Agnolo, 
a contemporary of Raphael, who, 
with the distinguished artists of 



that period, used to assemble in his 
studio. At the extinction of tlie 
Salviati family this palace came 
into the possession of government, 
who placed here its archives. Since 
1820 the grounds have been reduced 
to a botanic garden dependent on 
the university. 

The church of St Onofrio was 
built, in 1439, for the hermits of 
the congregation of St Jerome, 
some acts of whose life have been 
painted in fresco by Dominichino. 
The beautiful painting of the Ma- 
donna and Child surrounded with 
Angels, immediately over the door, 
is also by that celebrated artist. 
The convent of St Onofrio was the 
residence of Tasso in his latter 
days, and here he died in 1595 ; 
his tomb is on the left in entering 
the church. In the convent is a 
Madonna, said to be painted by 
Leonardo da Vinci. 

The Porta St Spirito was raised 
by Leo IV, in 850, when he sur- 
rounded the Vatican with walls, 
and under Paul III this gate was 
rebuilt on the designs of- Sangallo. 
Its name is derived from the ad- 
joining church and liospital of Santo 
Spirito, in which is an establish- 
ment for lunatics, founded by Bene- 
dict XIII, and enlarged under Leo 
XII. 

The Ponte Sisto, the ancient Pons 
Janiculensis, was restored by Sixtus 
IV in 1474 ; the fountain opposite 
the Via Giulia, placed here by Paul 
V, on the designs of John Pontana, 
is composed of two Ionic columns, 
supporting an attic and a niche 
through which the waters fall into 
a large basin. 

The church of the Trinita c|e' 
Pellegrini, built in 1614, contains 
over the principal altar a painting 
of the Holy Trinity, by Guido, one 
of the best works of that artist. 
In the adjoining building pilgrims 
are received, and convalescents ad- 
mitted from the hospitals of the 
city. 

N 2 



702 



CENTRAL ITALY, — ROME. SEVENTH DAT. 



The interior of St Carlo a' Cati- 
nari is of the Corinthian order, and 
possesses several paintings of me- 
rit. One by Pietro di Cortona 
represents St Charles in a proces- 
sion ; four Cardinal Virtues under 
the dome are by Dominichino ; and 
the Death of St Anne, by Andrea 
Sacchi. 

The Cancelleria, a palace des- 
tined for the residence of the vice- 
chancellor of the church, was com- 
menced by Cardinal Mazzarotta, 
and finished under Sixtus IV. 

The architectural designs were 
given by Bramante, who surrounded 
the court with a double portico, 
supported by forty- four granite 
columns, taken from the portico of 
Pompey. The stones of the Coli- 
seum, and the marbles of the arch 
of Gordian, were employed in the 
construction of this palace. 

The adjoining church of St Lo- 
renzo in Damaso, built in 384 in 
honour of St Laurence the martyr, 
was also restored on the designs of 
Bramante. It contains the statue 
of St Carlo Borromeo, byMaderno; 
and the tomb of Annibal Caro, a 
celebrated poet of the sixteenth 
century. 

A small edifice in a neighbouring 
street, called the Farnesina, was 
built by Raphael. 

In the Piazza Farnese are two 
large granite basins, one foot and a 
half high and seventeen feet long, 
found in the baths of Caracalla. 

The Palazzo Farnese was com • 
menced by Paul III, on the designs 
of Antonio Sangallo, and finished 
under Cardinal Alexander Far- 
nese by Michael AngeloBuonarotti. 
This edifice, built with blocks 
taken from the Coliseum, is of a 
square form ; the court has three 
orders of architecture. 

On the first story is the gallery 
of Annibal Caracci, containing his 
best compositions. 

In the centre of the ceiling is the 
Triumph of Bacchus and Ariadne ; 



the golden car of Bacchus is drawn 
by two tigers ; that of Ariadne, in 
silver, by two white goats ; both 
cars are surrounded with Fauns, 
Satyrs, and Bacchantes, and pre- 
ceded by Silenus. 

The round pictures represent Pan 
offering to Diana the wool of his 
goats, and Mercury presenting the 
golden apple to Paris. 

In the large pictures Galatea is 
carried on the seas amid a troop of 
Nymphs, Cupids, and Tritons ; 
Aurora on her car carries off 
Cephalus ; Polyphemus endeavours 
to charm Galatea by the sounds of 
his pipe, and not succeeding, hurls 
a rock at Acis, who carries her 
away. 

The four squares represent Ju- 
piter receiving Juno in the nuptial 
couch ; Diana caressing Endymion, 
while two Cupids concealed in a 
bush enjoy their victory over her; 
Hercules, in the dress of Oole, play- 
ing on the tabor, and Jole covered 
witii the skin of the Nemsean lion 
leaning on the club of Hercules; 
Anchises detaching a buskin from 
the foot of Venus. Over the figure 
of Polyphemus, Apollo carries away 
Hyacinthus ; Jupiter, under the 
form of an eagle, Ganymede. 

The eight medallions, of a bronze 
colour, represent Leander being 
drowned in the Hellespont ; Sy- 
rinx metamorphosed into a Reed ; 
Hermaphrodite surprised by Sal- 
macis ; Cupid tying a Satyr to a 
tree ; Boreas carrying away Ori- 
thea; Eurydice called back to the 
regions below; and the Rape of 
Europa. 

Over the niches and windows 
Arion is mounted on a Dolphin; 
Prometheus animates his statues ; 
Hercules kills the Dragon of the 
Hesperides ; the same hero delivers 
Prometheus after striking with a 
dart the Vulture that devoured his 
liver; Icarus falls into the sea; the 
Pregnancy of Callisto is discovered 
in the Bath; the same Nympli is 



ROMAN STATES. — ROilE. SEVENTH DAT. 



ro3 



chansred into a Bear; Phoebus re- 
ceives the Lyre from Mercury. 

Dominichino has represented 
over the door a Young Girl caress- 
ing an Unicorn, the device of the 
Farnese family. 

At the ends of the gallery are 
Andromeda attached to the rock 
in presence of her desolate parents, 
and Perseus combating the Dragon ; 
Perseus petrifying Phineus and his 
companions with the head of Me- 
dusa. 

In the other rooms are frescoes 
by Daniel di Volterra, Salviati, 
Zuccari, and Giorgio Vasari. 

In a cabinet of the palace An- 
nibal Caracci has also painted 
Hercules sustaining a Celestial 
Globe ; Ulysses delivering his 
companions from Circe and the 
Syrens; Anapus and Anaphinomus 
s ving their parents from the 
flames of Etna; Perseus cutting 
off the head of Medusa: Hercules 
fighting against the NemseanLion. 
The chiaro-oscuro ornaments that 
separates these subjects are also by 
Annibal Caracci, and are also so 
finely executed that they might 
pass as alti-rilievi. 

On the first story of the Spada 
palace is the colossal statue of 
Pompey, found in the Via Leutari, i 
near the Canceilaria. It is sup- | 
posed to have been placed in the | 
Curia of Pompey, situated near | 
this theatre, and to be the same j 
statue at the base of which Csssar I 
fell. I 

The g-allery of this palace con- , 
tains, amongst other pictures, a ' 
David with the head of Goliah: a 
Magdalen, by Guercino ; a Roman \ 
Charity, by Annibal Caracci ; a j 
Judith and a Lucretia. by Guido ; ' 
Christ disputing with the Doctors, | 
by Leonardo da Vinci ; the Market i 
of Naples, and the Revolt of Mas- ' 
saniello, by Michael Angelo della 
Bambocciate ; a Visitation of St 
Elizabeth, by Andrea del Sarto ; ' 
two landscapes, by Salvator Rosa;; 



several portraits by Titian, Van- 
dyke, and Tintoretto. 

St Maria, called Delia Morte. — 
This church was built by a frater- 
nity in 1575, whose object was to 
render the last duties to those who 
were found dead in the campagna 
of Rome. It is dedicated to the 
Virgin of Prayer, the holy Sacra- 
ment being exposed during forty 
hours the first Sunday of each 
month, a pious exercise now per- 
formed in all other churches alter- 
nately throughout the year. 

This church was restored by 
Clement VII, and contains a Holy 
Eamily, by Masucci; a St Michael, 
by a pupil of Raphael ; St Juliana 
Ealconieri, by Ghezzi; and frescoes 
by Lanfranc. 

The Ealconieri palace, the resi- 
dence of the prmcesof that ancient 
house, was rebuilt in the seventeenth 
century on the designs of Borroraini. 

St Caterinadi Sienne, built by the 
Sienneseinl526, contains frescoes by 
della Vite, a pupil of Raphael ; the 
principal altar has a painting by Je- 
rome della Genga , the figure over the 
door is by Passeri, who wrote the 
history of the artists of his time. 

*S'^ Spirilo of the Neapolitans. — 
This national church was built in 
1572, and restored by Carlo Eon- 
tana and Cosimo, a NeapoHtan. In 
the interior are a Miracle of St 
Erancis de Paola, by Lambert! ; a 
Martyrdom of St Gennaro, by Luc 
Giordano; a St Thomas Aquinas, by 
Muratori. The cupola is by Passeri, 

The Oratory of St. Peter and St 
Paul del Gonfaione. — In 1264 St 
Bonaventure instituted the first 
frarernity of laymen in Rome, and 
gave it the name of the Gonfaione, 
or banner. On the Avails of this 
oratory several facts of the ISiew 
Testament were painted in fresco 
by Agresti, and others, who painted 
also tlie altar piece. 

In the Via Giulia is the church 
of St Maria del Suffragio, designed 
by Rainaldi. It contains works of 



704 



CENTRAL ITALY.— tlOME. EIGHTH DAY. 



Natali, Ghezzi, Troppa, Chiari, 
Bennaschi, Daniel the Fleming, and 
other artists. 

In the little church of St Faus- 
tina, erected on the spot selected 
by Julius II for a palace for the civil 
and criminal tribunal of Rome, is a 
picture of the Blind Man cured by 
our Saviour, said to be Muziano. 

St Giovanni de* Fiorentini. — A 
company of Florentines erected 
this church in 1588 on the designs 
of Giacomo della Porta; the front 
was raised by Alexander Galilei, 
by order of Clement XII. The in- 
terior is divided into three naves ; 
the painting in the chapel of St 
Jerome is by Sante Titi ; that in 
the side chapel by Cigoli ; the 
Martyrdom of St Cosmas and St Da- 
mian by Sal va tor Eos a. The altar 
piece is decorated with marble on 
the designs of Pietro di Cortona, 
and at the expense of the Falconieri 
family: the group over the altar, 
representing the Baptism of Christ, 
is by Raggi; that of Charity by 
Guidi; the tomb of Monsignor 
Corsini is by Algardi, that of Acci- 
ajuoli by Ferrata The chapel of 
the Crucifix was painted by Lan- 
franc 

Vatican Bridge.— The period of 
the foundation of this bridge is un- 
certain ; it appears that in the fifth 
century it was in a state of ruin. 
The remains of walls of the middle 
ages, still seen in the river, are 
founded on the ruins of the ancient 
bridge, a part of which was demo- 
lished in 18 12, in order to ameliorate 
the navigation of the river. 



EIGHTH DAY. 

FROM THE ^LIAN BRIDGE TO 
MONTE MARIO. 

The Vatican hill forms the pro- 
longation of the Janiculum ; its 
appellation is most probably de- 
rived from va'acinia, or oracles 
delivered here at the period of the 



domination of the Etrusco- Veians. 
In ancient times it was not included 
within the city ; in the sixteenth 
century, under Sixtus V, it formed 
one of the fourteen divisions. 

JElian Bridge . or Ponte Si Angelo. 
— This bridge was built by the 
Emperor Adrian to serve as a 
communication with his mausoleum 
and circus. It consists of three 
central and four smaller arches ; it 
was restored by Nicholas V and by 
Clement VII, who erected on it the 
statues of St Peter and St Paul. 

The Mausoleum of Adrian, built 
on the model of that of Augustus 
for the sepulture of the Emperor 
and the members of his family, is 
200 feet in diameter ; the exterior, 
according toProcopius, was covered 
with Parian marble, and decorated 
with pilasters, supporting an entab- 
lature. At each angle of the square 
base were groups of men and 
horses ; the round top was covered 
with statues. 

In the decline of the empire this 
monument was used as a means of 
defence of the city. Procopius 
adds that its ornaments were 
ruined by the Greeks, who fortified 
themselves here against the Goths, 
and broke the statues to throw 
them at the besiegers. 

In the tenth century it Avas for- 
tified by Oescentius, a noble Ro- 
man, and successively under several 
popes from Boniface IX to Urban 
VIII. It is now called Forte St 
Angelo from the statue of the arch- 
angel Michael placed on its summit ; 
it communicates with the Vatican 
palace by a covered *rch way. 

Santo Spirito. — This hospital, the 
most extensive of the city, receives 
the sick, the insane, and foundlings. 
It was founded by Innocent III in 
1198. It contains a cabinet of 
anatomy. The adjoining church 
was rebuilt in 1538, on the designs 
of Sangallo. 

St Maria in Traspontina was 
restored in 1563. There was for- 



ROM.VN STATES. ROME. EIGHTH DAT. 



<0^ 



raerly near the baptismal font a 
pyramid, supposed, in the middle 
ages, to have been the tomb of 
Romulus, or of Scipio Emilian, the 
conqueror of Carthage. The mar- 
ble that covered it was applied by 
Pope Dono I to pave the atrium of 
St Peter's. 

In the small Piazza Scossacavalli 
is a palace of the architecture of 
Bramante, now belonging to the 
Torlonia family, by whom it has 
been greatly embellished 

Piazza St Pietro. — The area, 
1,075 feet in length, forming this 
piazza may be divided into three 
sections ; the first, 216 feet long 
and 204 Avide, leads to the principal 
piazza, of a regular elliptic form, 
bounded by a colossal colonnade of 
the Doric order, formed by four 
rows of columns on each side, the 
central road being large enough to 
admit two carriages abreast These 
porticoes, fifty- six feet wide and 
sixty-one high, contain 284 columns, 
and support a balustrade, on which 
are placed 192 colossal statues, 
eleven and a half feet high. The 
second section of the piazza is 738 
feet in length and 588 in breadth. 
The third section immediately pre- 
ceding the basilic is a regular tra- 
pezium, and serves as an atrium to 
the church ; its length is 296, and 
its breadth 336 feet. 

Near the obelisk are two foun- 
tains by Carlo Maderno, each rais- 
ing to a height of nine feet a body 
of water which falls into a round 
granite basin fifty feet in circum- 
ference. 

Basilic of Si Peter's. — This mag- 
nificent temple is situated in the 
Vatican territory of the ancients, 
from which it derives its denomi- 
nation. In this direction were the 
gardens and circus, a Nero, where 
the massacre of the Christians, 
related by Tacitus, took place. 
Their remains were interred in a 
grotto near the circus, and St Peter 
having soon after suffered martyr- 



dom, his disciple Mark conveyed 
his body to the same spot, where 
an oratory was raised over his 
tomb by Pope St Anacletus. In 
326 Constantine laid the founda- 
tions of the church, divided into 
five naves, which existed till the 
fifteenth century. 

Nicholas V, desirous of erecting 
in honour of the prince of 
the apostles a temple equal in 
splendour to that of Solomon, 
commenced the tribune in 1450, 
which was continued by Paul IL 
In 1503 Julius II, after having 
examined the designs of the most 
skilful architects, selected that of 
Bramante, who devised the grand 
cupola. 

After the death of Julius II and 
of Bramante, Leo X confided the 
works to Sangallo. to Fra Giocondo, 
and finaUy to Raphael, and at his 
decease to Peruzzi, of Sienne, who 
converted the Latin into a Greek 
cross, and completed the tribune 
under Clement VII. 

His successor, Paul III, selected 
as architect Antonio Sangallo, 
whose plan consisted in re-adopting 
the Latin cross, according to the 
design of Bramante. At the death 
of Sangallo, the direction of tlie 
works was entrusted to Michael 
Angelo Buonarotti, who resumed the 
plan of Peruzzi, enlarged the tri- 
bune, the arms of the transverse 
naves, gave a new design for the 
cupola, and intended to build a 
front similar to that of the Pan- 
theon. After Michael Angelo, 
Vignola raised the two lateral 
cupolas ; and Giacomo deUa Porta 
completed the central one. 

Under Paul V the work was 
finished by Carlo Maderno, who 
raised the front and portico, and 
abandoned the plans of Buonarotti 
for those of Bramante, by giving 
the temple the form of a Latin 
cross. 

Finally, under Alexander VII, 
the portico of the piazza was con- 



•06 



CENTRAL ITALY. — T;0ME. EIGHTH DAT. 



structed by Bernini, and under 
Pius VT the sacristy was added on 
the plans of Marchionni. 

Painting, sculpture, mosaics, the 
art of melting bronze, gilding, 
carving, all the arts have contri- 
buted to embellish this temple, the 
most splendid not only of Rome 
but of the whole world. 

The front is composed of eight 
columns, eight feet five inches in 
diameter, eighty-eight in height, 
including the base and capital, four 
Corinthian pilasters, an entablature 
and attic terminated by a balus- 
trade, supporting thirteen statues 
seventeen feet high, representing 
our Saviour and the Apostles. The 
height from the pavement to the 
top of the cross over the cupola is 
424 feet. 

The portico is 439 feet in length, 
and forty-seven in breadth ; at one 
end is the statue of Charlemagne, 
by Cornacchini, at the other that 
of Con Stan tine, by Bernini, The 
pilasters lining the portico support 
an entablature and a roof sixty- 
two feet high, covered with gilt 
stucco ; over the great door is the 
mosaic of Giotto, a Florentine of the 
thirteenth century, representing 
the boat of St Peter. 

The door with a bronze cross, 
called the Porta Santa, is opened 
only once every twenty-five years, 
at the period of the jubilee. The 
bas-reliefs of the principal gate 
allude to the martyrdom of St 
Peter and St Paul, to the coronation 
of the Emperor Sigismund by Eu- 
genius IV, and to the audience 
granted by that pontiif to the en- 
voys of sundry eastern nations. 

The interior, in the form of a 
Latin cross, is divided into three 
naves by pilasters supporting four 
large arches on each side ; to each 
are attached two others, fluted and 
Corinthian, eight feet broad, se- 
venty-seven high, over which is an 
entablature of eighteen feet ; in the 
niches are marble statues, fifteen 



feet in height, of the founders of 
religious orders. The counter pilas- 
ters uniting under the arches have 
medallions, the portraits of different 
popes ; the roof is covered with gilt 
stucco, and the pavement is formed 
of the finest quality of marble. 

At the end of the great nave, 
raised on a pedestal, is the statue 
of St Peter, whose foot is kissed by 
the faithful in veneration of the 
prince of the apostles. The con- 
fession of St Peter, or tomb, con- 
taining parts of his and of St Paul's 
bodies, is surrounded with a circu- 
lar marble balustrade, on which 112 
lamps are continually burning. A 
double staircase leads to the inte- 
rior, which is decorated with mar- 
ble, festoons, and angels of gilt 
bronze. On each side of the door 
are the statues of St Peter and St 
Paul ; in an oblong niche is the 
confession, a part of the ancient 
oratory of St Anacletus. 

In the statue of Pius VI, who 
was buried near the tomb of St 
Peter, Canova has represented that 
pontiff praying at the altar of the 
confession. 

The altar placed under the cupola 
is isolated, and turned to the east, 
according to ancient custom. The 
baldachin, erected in 1633 by Ber- 
nini, is supported by four irregular 
columns of the composite order, of 
gilt bronze, thirty- four feet high ; 
at the angles are four angels ; in 
the centre is a globe supporting the 
cross. The total height of the bal- 
dachin is eighty-six feet. 

The Cupola. — Bramante, having 
conceived the idea of erecting the 
largest cupola in the world, formed 
for its support four pillars 206 feet 
in circumference. In his designs 
for this church Michael Angelo 
planned a double cupola ; between 
the walls, which are twenty-two 
feet thick, a staircase leads to the 
baU. 

The diameter of the cupola is 130 
feet ; the height of the pillars, 166; 



EOMA2? STATES. — ROME. EIGHTH I>AT. 



"07 



of the cupola, 155 ; of the lantern, 
fifty -three ; of the pedestal of the 
ball, twenty-nine and a half ; of the 
ball itself, seven and a half; and 
the cross, thirteen : forming a total 
height of 426 feet. 

Thirty-tTvo Corinthian pilasters, 
between which are sixteen windows, 
support an entablature from which 
commences the concavity of the 
cupola, divided into sixteen com 
partments, adorned mth gilt stuc- 
coes and mosaics representing an- 
gels, the Virgin, the apostles, and 
several saints. 

On the frieze of the entablature, 
supported by the four large pillars, 
is the following text of the gospel : 
"Tu es Petrus. et super hanc petram 
aedificabo ecclesiam meam, et tibi 
dabo claves regni coelorum." 

In the upper niches of the pillars, 
formed into balconies, with a balus- 
trade in front and columns at each 
side, many relics are preserved ; 
the most precious are in that over 
the statue of St Veronica. 

The statues in the lower niches 
allude to the instruments of the 
passion. St Veronica holds the 
cloth that wiped the sweat from 
our Saviour's face, St Helen the 
nails and cross, St Longinus the 
lance that pierced his side ; the 
fourth represents St Andrew. 

Tribune and Chair of St Peter. — 
At the extremity of the grand nave 
are the tribune and the altar, over 
which is the chair, made partly of 
wood, partly of ivory, covered with 
ornaments, and supported by four 
colossal figures reijresenting the 
celebrated doctors of the Latin and 
Greek church, St Ambrose, St Au- 
gustine, St Athanasius, and St John 
Chrysostom. Two angels bear the 
tiara and pontifical keys ; a multi- 
tude of seraphims venerate the chair ; 
the Holy Ghost, in the shape of a 
dove, crowns the entire work. 

The tomb of Paul HI was executed 
by Guglielmo della Porta, under the 
diiiection of IVIichael Angelo. At 



the base are the reclining statues of 
Justice and Prudence ; the former, 
being nearly naked, was partly 
covered by Bernini with a bronze 
drapery. The sepulchral monmnent 
of Urban VHI, with the statues of 
Cha,rity and Justice, is a work of 
Bernini. 

The ceiling of the tribune is co- 
vered with gilt stuccoes and bas- 
reliefs : Christ giving the keys to 
St Peter is taken from a design 
of Raphael, the Crucifixion of the 
Apostle from a painting of Guido, 
the Decollation of St Paul from a 
bas-rehef of Algardi. 

South ^:rfe.— Leaving the tribime 
on the left, the first altar, adorned 
with two large columns of black 
Egyptian granite, contains a mosaic 
representing St Peter curing the 
lame man ; the original painting is 
by Prancesco Mancini. Opposite is 
the tomb of Alexander VHI, who 
died in 1691, by Andrea Rossi. The 
bas-reUef alludes to the canoniza- 
tion of several saints by that pontiff 
in 1690. 

On the next altar, that of St Leo, 
is abas-relief of Algardi, represent- 
mg Attila retiring from Rome at 
the sight of St Peter and St Paul. 

Over the third is a miraculous 
image of the Virgin, and on 
the cupola are mosaics from the 
designs of Andrea Sacchi and Lan- 
franc. 

Over the fourth, opposite the 
tomb of Alexander VH by Bernini, 
is the fall of Simon the magician, 
from a painting by Vanni of Sienne. 

K'ear the tomb of Pius VII, by 
Thorwaldsen, are other altars with 
the Crucifixion of St Peter, from an 
original by Guido, and St Thomas 
touching the side of our Saviour, 
from Camuccini. 

Over an altar, on the opposite 
piUar of the grand cupola, is a 
mosaic, from an original by Ron- 
calli, of Ananias and Sapphira ex- 
piring at the feet of St Peter. 

In the Clementine chapel is a 



'08 



CENTRAL ITALY. — ROME. EIGHTH DAT. 



mosaic, from a painting of Andrea 
Sacchi, representing a miracle of 
St Gregory the Great, whose body 
is under this altar. The mosaics 
of the cupola are from works of 
Roncalli. 

On another pillar of the grand 
cupola is the mosaic copy of the 
Transfiguration. In the chapel of 
the choir is the Conception, from 
the original of Bianchi. In that 
of the Presentation, the Virgin 
presented at the Temple is from the 
original of Romanelli. The tomb 
of Maria Sobieski Stuart, who died 
in 1755, is ornamented with a sar- 
cophagus of porphyry, with a Cha- 
rity and a genius holding her por- 
trait. Opposite are those of the 
three last princes of the house of 
Stuart, by Canova. 

The baptismal font of the last 
chapel on the right consists of a 
porphyry urn, twelve feet long and 
six broad, covered with a bronze 
gilt pyramid supporting a lamb, 
the symbol of the Redeemer. The 
central mosaic, representing the 
baptism of our Saviour by St John, 
is copied from Carlo Maratta ; St 
Peter baptizing St Processus and 
St Martinian in the Mammertine 
prison, and Cornelius the centurion, 
are from Passeri and Procaccini. 

In the first chapel on the right, 
on entering, are the group of the 
blessed Virgin and our Saviour 
after his crucifixion, one of the ear- 
liest works of Michael Angelo, and 
a mosaic representing St Nicholas 
of Bari. Opposite the monument 
of Christina, queen of Sweden, is 
that of Leo Xn, by Fabris. 

The chapel of St Sebastian con- 
tains the mosaic of the picture of 
Dominichino existing at St Maria 
degli Angeli. Near the tomb of 
Innocent XII is that of the Countess 
Matilda. The bas-relief alludes to 
the absolution given by St Gre- 
gory VII to the Emperor Henry I V, 
in presence of the countess. 

On the altar of the chapel of the 



holy sacrament is a rich tabernacle 
decorated with twelve columns of 
lapis lazuli, the base and capitals 
of the Corinthian order, and the 
cupola are of gilt bronze. The 
fresco, representing the Holy Tri- 
nity, is by Pietro di Cortona. In 
this chapel are the tombs of Six- 
tus IV and Julius II ; the bas- 
reUefs, of gilt stucco, are by the 
same artist. 

On the pillar of the cupola is the 
mosaic of the Communion of St 
Jerome, by Dominichino. 

The chapel of the Virgin, 
built on the designs of Michael 
Angelo, contains an ancient image 
of the Madonna ; the angular mo- 
saics of the cupola are copied from 
the works of Muziano. After the 
tomb of Benedict XIV, on a pillar 
of the cupola, is the altar of St 
Basil the Great, the mosaic of 
which is from an original by Sub- 
leyras. 

At the end of the north nave are 
three altars, with mosaics repre- 
senting the Martyrdom of St Pro- 
cessus and St Martinian, from the 
original of Valentin! ; that of St 
Erasmo from Nicholas Poussin, and 
of St Wenceslaus, king of Bohemia, 
from the original by CaroseUi. 

Over the last piUar of the cupola 
is the mosaic from Lanfranc, of the 
bark of St Peter on the point of 
sinking, when Christ comes to the 
assistance of the apostle. 

Opposite is the tomb of Cle- 
ment XIII, by Canova ; it is com- 
posed of three large figures : the 
pope in prayer, Religion supporting 
the cross, and the genius of death 
seated near the sarcophagus ; of 
two recumbent bas-relief figures of 
Charity and Fortitude, and two 
lions, symbolic of the strength of 
mind which distinguished that 
pontiff. 

In the last chapel of this side of 
the basilic are mosaics of the St 
Michael of Guido, and of the St 
Petronilla of Guercino ; those, of 



ROitAN STATES. — ROME. EIGHTH DAT. 



ro9 



the cupola are from paintings by 
Andrea Sacchi, Romanelli, and Be- 
nefial. 

After the tomb of Clement X is 
the mosaic from the original of 
Costanzi, of St Peter restoring 
Tabitha to life. 

The pavement of the ancient 
Ibasilic, preserved entire, is eleven 
feet under that of the modern. 
Four small chapels correspond to 
the pillars that support the cupola, 
and over their altars are mosaic 
subjects taken from works of An- 
drea Sacchi. 

The chapel of the Confession, 
placed under the grand altar of the 
new basilic, was ornamented by 
Clement VIII with marble, gilt 
stucco, and twenty -four bronze 
reliefs allusive to sundry events in 
the lives of St Peter and St Paul. 
This altar is held in the highest 
veneration, being placed over the 
tomb of the prince of the apostles. 

Among the tombs of this subter- 
ranean church are those of the 
Emperor Otho II, of Charlotte, 
queen of Jerusalem and Cyprus, of 
James Stuart III, and of several 
popes ; it also contains numerous 
statues, bas-reliefs, mosaics, paint- 
ings, inscriptions, and other sacred 
monuments belonging to the ancient 
church. 

The Sacristy. — The vestibule 
leads to three galleries adorned 
with grey marble columns and 
verde Africano pilasters, between 
which are various ancient and mo- 
dern inscriptions, and the busts of 
several pontiffs. 

In the sacristy of the canons are 
a painting by Fattore, a pupil of 
Raphael, one by Giulio Romano, 
and two by Cavallucci. In the ad- 
joining sacristy are a Muziano, 
representing Christ giving the keys 
to St Peter, and an ancient image 
of the Virgin. 

The external parts of the temple 
can alone convey an accurate idea 
of its size. A winding staircase of 



142 steps leads to a platform, on 
which are two octangular cupolas, 
136 feet in height ; that of the 
grand cupola above this platform is 
285 feet ; it is entered by means of 
galleries communicating with the 
internal entablature, seven feet wide 
and 380 in circumference. Ascend- 
ing to the spot where the cupola is 
double, several steps lead to the 
lantern, others to the ball of gilt 
bronze, which is seven and a half 
feet in diameter, and contains room 
for sixteen persons ; an iron ladder 
leads to the cross, which is thu'teen 
feet high. 

In finishing our cursor}^ view of 
St Peter's, it may not be foreign to 
the purpose to add that three cen- 
turies and a half were employed in 
its construction ; that it contains 
ten cupolas, besides the one raised 
by jMichael Angelo, ninety-six mar- 
ble columns, twenty -nine paintings 
in mosaic, about 140 statues, of 
which ninety-one are marble, 
twenty-eight stucco, and twenty -one 
bronze ; that from the entrance to 
the chair of St Peter the length is 
575 feet, and the breadth under the 
cross 417 ; that the middle nave is 
eighty-two feet broad and 142 high, 
each of the lateral naves twenty feet 
wide ; and that from a calculation 
made by Carlo Fontana in 1693 the 
expenses, exclusive of the gildings, 
mosaic works, and the sacristy, 
amounted at that period to nearly 
252 millions of francs. 

Open on Mondays from half-past 
ten till one to the public ; one till 
half-past five every other day, except 
Saturdays, when it closes at twelve. 

The Vatican Palace. — The period 
of the foundation of the Vatican is 
not known, but it is probable that 
when building the church Constan- 
tine assigned to the pope sonie of 
the edifices raised in the gardens of 
Nero. 

It was repaired in the twelfth 
century, enlarged by Gregory XI 
when the holy see returned from 



701 



CENTRAL ITALY.— ROME. EIGHTH DAT. 



Avignon, was embellished by Julius 
II and by Leo X ; enlarged by 
several other pontiffs, and completed 
by Clement VIII and Paul V. A 
superb building was added to the 
museum by Pius VI, and a pinaco- 
theca by Pius VII ; the reigning 
sovereign Gregory XVI has founded 
two new museums, one for Etruscan, 
the other for Egyptian monuments. 

The architecture of this palace 
"being of different periods is defective 
as regards symmetry and regularity. 
The principal staircase, near the 
statue of Constantine, leads to the 
sala regia ; the frescoes of which, 
representing different historical 
facts, were painted by Vasari and 
Zuccari. 

The Vatican is open on Mondays 
to those who choose to pay a fee 
to the custode, from half-past ten till 
one ; and from one tiU half-past five 
in summer, and four in winter. Other 
days open from ten till four, except 
Saturdays, when it closes at twelve ; 
but it appears that frequent changes 
take place respecting the hours of 
admission, influenced by frequent 
fetes, fasts, and festivities. To see 
the Egyptian and Tuscan gaUeries 
and to mount the dome, permission 
must be had through the English 
consul. 

The Slxtine Chapd, built in 1473 
by Sixtus IV, is celebrated for the 
frescoes of Michael Angelo, who re- 
presented on the ceiling the Creation 
of the World and sundry passages of 
the OldTestament — a work executed 
in the space of twenty months, 
without any assistance. 

Under Paul III the same artist 
completed in three years the Last 
Judgment. In the centre are Christ 
and the Virgin in the midst 
of the apostles and of a multitude of 
saints ; over these, angels bearing 
the instruments of the passion ; 
below, others sounding trumpets to 
call the dead from their tombs to 
the last judgment. Several of the 
dead resume their flesh, others en- 



deavour to shake off the earth, 
others traverse the air to appear at 
the tribunal. Some angels assist 
the elect in their attempt to reach 
heaven, while demons, on the other 
hand, drag doAvn to hell the con- 
demned, whose resistance produces 
the most violent struggles. On the 
lower part of the picture Charon 
receives them in his bark, and 
transports them to the infernal 
regions. 

On the other parts of the cbapel 
Pietro Perugino, Ghirlandajo, and 
other distinguished artists of the 
fifteenth century, have represented 
scenes taken from the scriptm'es. 

The Pauline Chapel was erected 
under Paul III on the designs of 
Sangallo. The walls are covered 
with frescoes painted by Michael 
Angelo and by Zuccari. The holy 
sacrament is exposed during the 
forty hours in this chapel on the 
first Sunday of Advent and in the 
holy week. 

The Loggie or Galleries of Raphael 
were commenced by Bramante 
under Julius II, and finished under 
Leo X by Raphael, who covered 
the interior walls with paintings and 
ornaments on his own designs, and 
directed their execution. 

Tiie arabesques of the first, and 
the allegorical pieces of the third 
story, were painted by Gio d'Udine. 
On the second story, composed of 
thirteen arcades, Raphael has re- 
presented fifty-two scenes of the Old 
and New Testament, executed partly* 
by himself and partly by Julio 
Romano, Pier in del Vaga, and 
others, on his designs and under his 
direction. 

These paintings suffered much in 
1527, when Rome was taken by the 
troops of Charles V ; but though 
the colourmg has faded, they are 
still much admired for their designs 
and composition. 

The rooms on the first story ad- 
joining the museum, called the 
Borgia rooms, contain frescoes by 



ROMAN STATJES. — ROME. KIGHTH DAY. 



711 



Oiovanni d'Udine, Pierin del Vaga, 
and Pinturicchio. The Martyrdom 
of St Sebastian, the Visitation of the 
Virgin, St Catherine in presence 
of Maximian, and others, are by 
Pinturicchio, who also painted the 
subjects of the fourth room, rela- 
tive to the arts, sciences, and vir- 
tues. 

The famous antique painting 
found on the Esquiline in 1606, and 
called Nozze Aldobrandini, is sup- 
posed to represent the Marriage of 
Peleus and Thetis. The nymph, of 
an inferior style, was discovered 
near the Via Nomentana in 1810 ; 
the portraits of five of the most 
notorious women of the heroic 
times, Pasiphae, Scylla, Phedra, 
Myrrha, and Canace, near the St 
Sebastian gate in 1828. 

Gallerji of Inscriptions. — The re- 
union and arrangement of this col- 
lection is due to Pius VII. On the 
right side are Pagan, on the left 
Christian inscriptions, found gene- 
rally in the catacombs. 

The former relate to the gods 
and sacred ministers, to the em- 
perors, magistrates, soldiers, em- 
ployments, trades, and funerals. 
The other antique monuments are 
sarcophagi, funeral altars, cinerary 
urns. Among the monuments are 
a marble niche, with emblems of 
Neptune, found at Todi, discovered 
in the Pretorian camp, and dedicated 
to the genius of the centuria under 
the consuls Burrhus and Commodus 
in 181. The monument of Lucius 
Atimetus, remarkable for its bas- 
reliefs of a cutler's shop ; the wells, 
consecrated by Cerellius to Ceres 
and the Nymphs ; several represen- 
tations of the Mithriac worship. 

The Christian inscriptions are 
interesting from the symbols of the 
vine, the fish, the ark of Noah, the 
dove, the anchor, the rites and 
sepulchral forms, the chronology of 
consuls in the fourth and fifth cen- 
turies ; the faults of orthography 
and doubtful pronunciation of several 



letters indicate the corruption of the 
Latin language in those times. 

The Library surpasses the other 
libraries of Italy by the number of 
its Greek, Latin, Italian, and oriental 
manuscripts, and its collection of 
editions of the fifteenth century. It 
was commenced at the Lateran by 
Pope St Hilary, increased by 
Nicholas V, and placed in its pre- 
sent position by Sixtus V. 

Over the case containing the 
books and manuscripts are frescoes 
by sundry artists and Etruscan 
vases. On one of the finest is re- 
presented the apotheosis of Trip- 
tolemus ; on another, Achilles and 
Ajax playing at dice. 

In the long galleries are the 
manuscripts and books of the 
libraries of the elector palatine, of 
the dukes of Urbino, of Queen Chris- 
tina, of the Capponi and Ottoboni, 
successively united to that of the 
Vatican. 

The third hall of the gallery to 
the left contains two statues, one of 
St Hippolitus, on whose seat is the 
celebrated paschal calendar ; the 
other represents Aristides of 
Smyrna, a Greek sophist. Near 
these statues is a collection of 
utensils, paintings, and other ob- 
jects used by the early Christians, 
and the cabinet containing charts, 
written on papyrus of the sixth 
century ; adjoining this cabinet is 
that of ancient and modern engrav- 
ings collected by Pius VI, and at 
the end of the gallery that of cameos 
and antiquities in bronze. 

The Museum. — Without entering 
into a detailed description of the 
numerous objects of art united in 
this collection, we shall briefly 
notice the most interesting. 

Opposite the female reclining 
statue ]3laced on a tomb, found on 
the Via Cassia, is a bas-relief of the 
games of the circus, and one in the 
ancient Greek style, of Minerva 
preceded by another divinity. 
Another draped figure over a votive 



12 



CENTRAL ITALY. — KOMF. EIGHTH DAT. 



altar was erected, according to its 
inscription by the priests of Bacchus, 
to the gods placed on it. In the 
third compartment on the right is 
a fragment with genii riding on 
sea monsters, both of a light and 
elegant composition. The double- 
headed hermes is remarkable as 
being the only monument known, 
uniting Bacchus under the forms 
of Zagreus and Dionysius. 

In the gallery called the Braccio 
Nuovo the first object worthy of 
attention is the hermes, formed of 
a half-figure of Mercury, on which 
is an inscription relative to the 
sculptor Zeno, which has been 
illustrated by Winkelmann. The 
mosaic under the statue of Domi- 
tianus and Verus, representing 
Ulysses escaping from Scilla and 
the Sirens, and that under the Faun, 
were found in the vicinity of the 
gate of St Sebastian. 

The Minerva Medica, discovered 
near the supposed temple so called, 
is admired for its proportions, 
drapery, and its general expression ; 
it is one of the best preserved of 
those received from the ancients. 
It is probable that the artist has 
imitated the statue that existed in 
the Parthenon. 

In the centre of the gallery is a 
basaltic vase, highly finished and 
of elegant composition. 

The statue of the Nile with six- 
teen children, symbolic of the six- 
teen cubits the extent of its rise, and 
whose plinth is covered with animals 
and plants peculiar to that river, 
was found near the temple of Serapis. 
In the four angles are colossal masks 
of Medusa, discovered near the 
temple of Venus and Rome, and in 
the niches of the hemi cycle are five 
statues from the ruins of villas near 
Tivoli, and that of Lucullus at 
Circasi. 

The mosaic of the pavement re- 
presenting Diana of Ephesus, was 
found at Poggio Mirteto, in the Sa- 
bine comitry ; the statues of Venus 



Anadyomene and of the Greek phi- 
losopher, are well executed ; the 
Demosthenes, finely draped, and in 
appropriate attitude, is considered 
to be a perfect likeness of that 
orator. 

The other most remarkable works 
of this haU are. Abundance by land 
and by sea, a Roman matron, sup- 
posed to be Julia, the daughter of 
Titus, Euripides in good preserva- 
tion, a Diana contemplating En- 
dymion, an Amazon and a Faun, 
found near Circsei. 

Near the garden gate are a re ■ 
clinmg Faun with Nereids and 
other Fauns, found in the viUa of 
Quintilius at Tivoli. A Ganymede, 
which was placed over a foimtain 
at Ostia ; in the niches are an Isis 
and a Silenus. A Nerva with the 
toga. A Silenus crowned with ivy 
holding Bacchus in his arms; the 
head of a Dacian captive fomid in 
1812 in the excavations of the Tra- 
jan forum, and a Caryatides from 
the temple of Pandrosus in the 
citadel of Athens, brought to Ve- 
nice in the seventeenth century, 
and thence to the Giustiniani pa- 
lace. 

Second Part of the Gallery. — In 
the fifth compartment, on the right, 
is a fragment representing the car- 
ceres of a circus ; in the seventh 
are others of rural subjects, and the 
nuptial banquet of the Leucippides, 
to which Castor and Pollux were 
invited. The sarcophagus of Evho- 
dus, with the bas-relief of the- 
death of Alcestes, in fine preser- 
vation, and fragments with dancing 
Menades. 

In the ninth compartment are 
fragments of interesting bas-reliefs, 
of the ancient Greek stj'le, allusive 
to Perseus and the combat of Her- 
cules with the Amazons. 

Opposite the tenth is a mask of 
the Ocean on a votive altar, and a 
well-draped statue of Polymnia. 

The most interesting objects of 
the eleventh division are busts of 



KOMAN STATES. — BOMB. EIGHTH DAY. 



713 



Sappho and of Antoninus Pius, 
opposite is that of Alcibiades ; of 
the twelfth, a statue of Hercules, 
the combat of the Amazons, a 
wounded gladiator plunging a dag- 
ger in the breast of a lion. 

In the fragments of the fifteenth 
compartment the Roman soldiers 
may be seen covered with the 
hamata, a kind of cuirass, and with 
the squamea, so called from their 
scaly form. 

In the sixteenth is the statue of 
Tiberius, found at Veii ; in the 
seventeenth the fragment of a bas- 
relief, with a four-wheeled car, and 
a bust of Augustus, found at Ostia, 
which from its high finish is consi- 
dered as one of the finest of the 
collection. Near the bust of De- 
mosthenes is that of Cicero, 
agreeing with the medals found at 
Magnesia. 

Near the finely-draped statue of 
Esculapius in the nineteenth com- 
partment are the torso of a Citha- 
redus of flowered alabaster, sundry 
animals, and a mithriac group. 

The chief objects in the twen- 
tieth are a Tiberius found at 
Piperno, and opposite a sarcopha- 
gus, placed on a sepulchral monu- 
ment, on which are sculptured 
utensUs used in grinding olives and 
in making oil. On the left a statue 
of Atropos, one of the fates, found 
in the villa Adriana. 

In the twenty -first a head of one 
of the daughters of Niobe, another 
of Verus admirably executed, a 
statue of Silenus, and opposite a 
bust of Isis. 

In the twenty-third are busts of 
Antoninus, Nerva, PaUas, Trajan, 
and Augustus ; and on the opposite 
wall a bas-rehef of ^on, a gnostic 
divinity, and one of Mithra. 

The twenty-fourth and twenty- 
fifth compartments contain a Venus, 
a Mercury, a statue of Claudius, 
busts of Neptune, of Agrippina 
the younger, of Brutus, and a small 



statue of Typhon in the Egypto- 
Roman style. 

The twenty-sixth and twenty- 
seventh, a Ceres finely draped, 
placed on a quadrangular altar, 
with figures of Apollo and Diana, 
Mars and Mercury, Fortune and 
Hope, Hercules and Sylvanus, frag- 
ments of excellent style and execu- 
tion ; opposite are statues of Atys, 
Hercules, and Ganymede. 

In the twentj^ -eighth and twenty- 
ninth are a Roman lady under the 
form of Hygeia in petelic marble ; 
a fine bust, a colossal head of 
Antoninus Pius, a small statue of 
Ulysses as he is represented on the 
medals of the Mamilian family. 
Opposite are a fragment represent- 
ing a dancing Faim ; heads of 
Sabina the wife of Adrian, of Isis, 
of a Centaur crowned with vine- 
leaves, and a bacchic head in giallo 
antico. 

In the last compartment are a 
recumbent Hercules, two hermes, 
one of Solon and the other un- 
known. 

Hemicycle of thf belvedere. — Pius 
YII united in these rooms numerous 
Egyptian monuments and casts 
from the Parthenon, presented by 
George IV, king of England. 

The semicircular gallery contains 
the Egyptian monuments purchased 
by Pius VIL Ten statues of black 
granite, each with the head of a 
lioness, represent " Athor," the 
Venus of the Greeks ; in the centre 
of the curve is a mummy in its 
case between two cynocephali, 
sculptured in sand-stone. Around 
the waU are hieroglyphics and 
epitaphs, one of which dates from 
the year 1602 of the Christian era. 
Under the opposite windows, and 
ranged in closets, are small statues 
of bronze, wood and stone utensils, 
of all sorts, used in ancient Egypt, 
and several mummies of sacred 
animals. All these objects were 
found, in latter times, in the ruins 



714 



CENTRA!. ITALT. — ROME. EIGHTH DAT. 



of Thebes, and in the tombs of 
Gournah, on the left bank of the 
Nile. 

The reigning pontiff ordered the 
reunion in these chambers of all 
the Egyptian monuments existing 
in the public museums of Rome. 

Museo Pio Clementino. — This im- 
mense museum was formed by 
Popes Clement XIII and XIV, but 
particularly by Pius VI, who added 
numerous monuments and the haU 
of animals, a part of the gaUery, 
the hall of the muses, the round 
hall, that in the form of a Greek 
cross, that of the biga, and the 
grand staircase. From its archi- 
tecture and decorations it may be 
considered as one of the most 
splendid of modern Rome. 

Square Porch. — In the centre is 
the celebrated torso of the Belve- 
dere, found in the thermae of Cara- 
calla. It is known, from the Greek 
inscription at the base, that this 
fragment, belonging to a statue of 
Hercules, is the work of ApoUonius, 
son of Nestor the Athenian. 

Of the other monuments in this 
room the most celebrated are those 
found in the tomb of the Scipios ; 
seyeral very ancient inscriptions 
line the walls, that on the sarco- 
phagus shows that it was the tomb 
of Scipio Barbalus, consul in the 
year of Rome 460. The bust 
crowned with laurel, placed on the 
tomb, was probably the portrait of 
one of the Scipios. 

In the round hall are fragments 
of male and female figures finely 
draped, and on the balcony an 
ancient clock, on which are marked 
the cardinal points, and the names 
of the winds, in Greek and Latin. 

Chamber of Meleager, so called 
from its celebrated statue, over 
which is an ancient inscription 
stating that Lucius Mummius, 
consul in the year of Rome 607, 
defeated the Achasans, took and 
destroyed Corinth, and after his 



triumph dedicated the temple which 
during the war he had vowed to 
erect to Hercules. A bas-relief on 
the waUs represents the apotheosis 
of Homer by the Muses. 

Portico of the Court. — This portico, 
which contains the most celebrated ' 
monuments of ancient art, is sup- 
ported by sixteen granite columns 
and several pilasters. 

The first cabinet contains an- 
cient statues of Mercury and Pallas ; 
the boxers and Perseus of Canova. 

The second, the Mercury known 
under the name of Antinous, found 
on the Esquiline ; on the walls are 
bas-reliefs of AchiUes, who has just 
killed Penthesilea, and an Isiac 
procession. 

The third, the group of Laocoon, 
found, under Julius 11, in the baths 
of Titus. We learn from Pliny that 
this composition is due to three 
Grecian sculptors, Agesander, P0I3'- 
dorus, and Athenodorus of Rhodes. 
The bas-reliefs represent a Baccha- 
nalian festival and the triumph of 
Bacchus after his Indian expedi- 
tion. 

The last cabinet is that of the 
Apollo Belvedere, found at Antium 
in the beginning of the sixteenth 
century, and considered to be the 
most perfect work of sctilpture. 
The bas-reliefs on the wall aUude to 
a chase and to Pasiphae. 

Near the first cabinet is a sarco- 
phagus with an inscription stating 
that it belonged to MarceUus, the 
father of Heliogabalus; another with - 
figures of fauns and priestesses of 
Bacchus. 

On the sarcophagi near the se- 
cond cabinet are represented pri- 
soners imploring the clemency of 
the conqueror, and Bacchus visiting 
Ariadne in the isle of Naxos. 

On those placed near the third, 
Nereids are carrying the arms of 
Achilles, and the Athenians are 
engaged in battle with the Ama- 
zons. 



ROMAK STATES. R03IE. EIGHTH DAT. 



715 



Near the fourth cabinet are 
bas-rehefs of Hercules and Bac- 
chus, with their attributes, Au- 
gustus commencing a sacrifice, 
and Eome accompanying a victo- 
rious emperor. 

Hall of the Animals. — In this rare 
collection of sculptured animals are 
the groups of a marine Centaur and 
a Nereid, Hercules killing Gorgon, 
chaining and carrying aAvay Cer- 
berus, killing the Lion, Diomed and 
his horses, Commodus on horseback 
casting a javelin. It appears from 
this statue that in the time of that 
emperor it was customary to shoe 
horses. 

The pavement is composed of an- 
tique mosaics representing a wolf, 
an eagle devouring a hare, and a 
tiger. 

Gallery of Statues. —The most re- 
markable statues of this gallery are 
a Clodius Albinus, a half-figure of 
Cupid, Paris, PaUas, Penelope, Juno, 
an Amazon, the muse Urania, Posi- 
dippos, and Menander. 

On the opposite side are an ApoUo 
holding the lyre, a Neptune, a 
wounded Adonis, Bacchus, a group 
of Esculapius and Hygeia, a Danaid ; 
Ariadne deserted (usually caUed a 
Cleopatra) is placed between two 
marble chandeliers found in the 
viha Adriana, and is supported by 
a pedestal, on the bas-rehef of which 
is represented the war of the giants 
against the gods. 

Hall of Busts. — The most esteem- 
ed busts in this collection are 
those of Domitia, Galba, Mammsea, 
Lysimachus, Ariadne, Menelaus, 
Valerian, Pertinax, Agrippa, Cara- 
calla, Antinous, and Serapis, in 
basalt. 

A niche is occupied by the colossal 
statue of Jupiter, at whose feet is 
the eagle grasping the sceptre and 
thunderbolt. On the other side of 
the hall are busts of Trajan and An- 
toninus Pius, of Sabina, Brutus, 
Aristophanes, and Marcus Aurelius, 
a semi-figure of Apollo, a statue of 



Livia, and on a sole block of marble 
two portraits said to represent Cato 
and Porcia. 

iJabinet. — Under Pius VI, D' An- 
gelis painted on the centre of the 
ceiliugthe marriage of Bacchus and 
Ariadne, and in the four angles Paris 
offering the apple to Venus, Diana 
and Endymion, Venus and Adonis, 
Pallas and Paris. On the frieze are 
represented antique festoons and 
children ; the bas-reliefs allude to 
the labours of Hercules. The sta- 
tues of Minerva, Ganymede, Adonis, 
of one of the Houris, of Venus and 
Diana, are ancient works of fine 
composition 

Under the niches are four por- 
phyry benches resting on bronze 
supporters. The pavement, an an- 
cient mosaic of the finest execution, 
was found in the villa Adriana. A 
festoon of sundry fruits and leaves, 
tied with ribbons, forms a circular 
border round a compartment of 
white mosaic enclosing three figures 
of masks, and a landscape with goats 
and shepherds. 

In the passage leading to the gal- 
lery is the statue of a dancing faun, 
and near a smaU Diana a bas-relief 
of three conquerors in athletic games. 
Under the window is the celebrated 
alabaster vase found in the mau- 
soleum of Augustus, supposed, from 
the inscriptions that lay near it, 
now preserved in the gallery, to 
have contained the ashes of Livilla, 
the daughter of Germanicus. 

The Hall of the Muse is decorated 
with sixteen columns of Carrara 
marble, with antique capitals from 
the villa Adriana. 

The statues representing the 
Muses were found with the Hermes 
of the Sages of Greece, in the viUa 
of Cassius at Tivoli. They are 
Melpomene, crowned with vine 
leaves and holding the mask and 
sword; Thalia, with the tabour and 
comic mask ; Urania, the celestial 
globe; CaUiope; Polymnia,the muse 
of Pantomime, with her hands folded 



716 



CENTRAL ITALT. — ROME. EIGHTH DAY. 



in her drapery; Erato, with her lyre; 
Clio, the muse of history; Terpsi- 
chore and Euterpe. Near the statue 
of Silenus are a bas-relief of the 
dance of Corybantes ; the Hermes 
of Sophocles, Euripides, Eschines, 
Demosthenes, and Antisthenes, the 
first portrait known of this founder 
of the Cynic sect. 

The veiled Hermes of Aspasia is 
placed near the bust of Pericles ; 
both have Greek inscriptions. The 
remaining principal busts of this hall 
are those of Solon, Periander, Alci- 
biades, Socrates, Aratus, and Euri- 
pedes. 

The marble pavement, inlaid with 
sundry mosaic figures of comic and 
tragic actors, was found at Lorium 
(Castel di Guido), twelve miles 
from Rome. The frescoes by Conca 
allude to the subjects united in this 
room. 

Round Hall. — A variety of statues 
and colossal busts, placed on columns 
of porphyry, form the ornaments 
of this hall, round which are ten 
marble pilasters whose capitals were 
sculptured by Franzoni. 

The principal busts are those of 
Jupiter, Adrian, Antinous, Serapis, 
Julia Pia, and Pertinax ; the statues 
of Hercules, Augustus, Ceres, Anto- 
ninus Pius, Nerva, Juno Lanuvino, 
indicated by the goat skin and 
shield. 

The pavement found at Otricoli, 
and the sea monsters at Scrofano,are 
fine specimens of antique mosaics. 
In the centre, over the head of 
Medusa, is a porphyry vase, forty- 
one feet in circumference. 

Hall of the Greek Cross.— The 
door leading into this room is re- 
markable for the splendour of its 
ornaments. The bases, columns, 
colossal statues, serving as Cary- 
atides to tlie entablature, are all of 
red Egyptian granite, and are sup- 
posed to have been adapted to one 
of the entrances of Adrian's villa. 

On the porphyry urn, wliich was 
the tomb of St Constantia, children 



are occupied in gathering grapes. 
It was found near her church, com- 
monly called the temple of Bacchus. 
The corresponding urn, also of 
porphyry, with has - reliefs of a 
battle and prisoners, served as the 
tomb of the Empress St Helen. 

Near the grating are two colossal 
Sphinxes, and on the walls bas- 
reliefs, representing combats of 
gladiators and wild beasts, Baccha- 
nalian and other mythological sub- 
jects. 

On the pavement is a mosaic, 
found at Tusculura, representing 
a head of Minerva, and various 
arabesques. 

The staircase is decorated with 
twenty columns of granite, with 
balustrades in bronze, entablatures 
of sculptured marble, and statues 
emblematic of the Nile, and of 
another river. 

Another staircase, on which are 
eight columns of breccia corallina, 
leads to the 

Hall of the Biga. — In the centre 
of which is an ancient marble biga, 
finely sculptured. In the niches 
are statues of Perseus, of Alci- 
blades, a richly draped female 
figure performing a sacrifice, of 
Apollo holding the lyre, of Phocion, 
a Dioscobolus copied from Myron, 
of Apollouius, a Greek philospher 
of the second century, and of 
Apollo Sauroctonus, or destroyer 
of the lizards. 

The sarcophagi placed at the foot 
of each niche represent the genius 
and the attributes of the Muses, the 
games of the circus, &c. 

The following gallery is divided 
into six sections; the first contain- 
ing monuments, chandeliers, and 
two trunks of trees supporting 
nests of little Cupids. 

The second, vases, cups, chande- 
liers of various forms, and two 
sarcophagi alluding to the history 
of Protesilas and Laodamia, and to 
tlie death of Egisthus and Clytem- 
ncstra. 



ROMAN STATES.— ROME. EIGHTH DAY. 



717 



In the third are the antiquities 
discovered at Tor Marancio, near 
the Ardean way, and consisting of 
statues, fragments of paintings, and 
a mosaic representing vegetables, 
fish, and fowl. 

The fourth section is enriched 
with vases, chandeliers, cups, sta- 
tues, bas-reliefs, sarcophagi with 
the fable of Niobe, and the amours 
of Diana and Endymion. 

In the fifth is an elegant draped 
statue of Ceres ; in the last section 
are monuments, and many rare 
kinds of marble. 

In the adjoining rooms are the 
tapestries of Raphael, and the col- 
lection of maps formed by Gregory 
XIII. 

Museo Gregoriano. — This museum 
has been formed by the present 
pope, Gregory XVI, to contain the 
numerous monments of art found of | 
late years in the cities of Vulci, 
Tarquinii, Cere, Toscanella, and in 
other spots cast over that part of 
ancient Etruria which extends from 
the Tiber to the river Eiora. To 
these monuments have been added 
those of Egypt, which were hitherto 
in the Capitol, or in other public 
museums. 

In the first vestibule are three 
reclining figures, two male and one 
female, originally placed over tombs, 
which are remarkable by the orna- 
ments with which they are adorned. 

The horses' heads, of a good style 
of sculpture, were found over a 
sepulchral door at Vulci. 

Several cinerary urns, made of 
alabastar of Volterra, and votive 
offerings, were discovered at Cere. 

The adjoining room contains a 
large sarcophagus, on which are 
represented the funeral rites of the 
Etruscans, and urns found at Castel 
Gandolfo, of a style similar to those 
of Etruria 

The works in terra cotta are 
united in the hall of Mercury, so 
called from the highly finished sta- 
tue of that god found at Tivoli. 



The following room contains the 
vases, with black figures on yellow 
ground, of the most ancient style. 
The vase of Bacchus, particularly 
admired for its execution : the 
figures are not mere outlines but 
painted, the different colours imi- 
tating the flesh, the vestments, 
and accessories ; the subject repre- 
sents Mercury consigning to Silenus 
the infant Bacchus; three nymphs, 
emblamatic of the seasons, which 
formerly were three in number, are 
celebrating with their song the 
birth of the son of Jove. 

The chamber of Apollo is so 
called from the vase, in high pre- 
servation, representing Apollo seat- 
ed on the tripod, singing to the 
sound of the lyre ; this urn is 
perfect, both for its composition 
and its workmanship. It is placed 
in the middle of several others, 
which are highly interesting. 

In the hall of the bronzes is the 
military statue discovered at Todi; 
a monument unrivalled, as offering 
a type of the national art, the cele- 
brity of which is encreased by the 
epigraphs engraved on it, to which 
various interpretations have been 
given. In this room are domestic 
utensils, differing in form, style, 
and size ; chandeliers, used also in 
the sacred rites, the tripod and 
casket, beautiful iDronzes found at 
Vulci, military weapons at Bo- 
marzo, fragments of figures larger 
than life at Chiusi, the colossal 
arm in the port of Civita Vecchia : 
the Etruscan car, so singular for its 
ornaments and style, the chest 
engraved with athletic combats, are 
worthy of observation: the walls 
and tables are covered with mir- 
rors, and inscriptions useful in 
advancing the knowledge of the 
Etruscan language. In two closets 
are deposited a great number of 
small utensils, light fragments, and 
vases: the large vessels, utensils, 
and arms, on the walls, the masks 
used in scenic representations and 

o 



718 



CENTRAl, ITALY. — KOME. EIGHTH DAY. 



crowned with ivy, are finely ex- 
ecuted. 

The works in gold are beautiful 
and elegant, whether we consider 
the invention, the form, or their state 
of preservation: the ornaments of 
men are the distinctive signs of 
dignities, the premiums of victory, 
the gifts of athletic combats, the 
civic and triumphal crowns of ivy 
and myrtle, the gold works cut 
with the chisel, not only manifest 
the taste of the artists, but convey 
an idea of the scientific knowledge 
of the nation. Erom all these ob- 
jects an idea may be formed of the 
riches, the flourishing state, and 
the degree of splendour attained 
by the Etruscans, when objects of 
such value were buried with their 
owners. 

A passage, the walls of which 
are lined with Etruscan inscrip- 
tions, leads to a large room round 
which are copies perfectly resem- 
bling the original paintings exist- 
ing on the tombs of Vulci and 
Tarquinii, monuments of the high- 
est importance in the history of 
national art, as they represent the 
public games and banquets which 
took place at the funerals of illus • 
trious individuals. The vases and 
sculptures of this room are marked 
with Etruscan inscriptions. 

Near the passage to the cinerary 
urns of alabaster of Volterra is an 
imitation of a small Etruscan ce- 
metery, and a tomb brought from 
Vulci, the door of which is guarded 
by two lions placed as in their 
original position. In the interior 
are disposed the funeral beds and 
vases which are usually found in 
these tombs. 

The Gallery is filled with cups of 
the most delicate workmanship that 
has come down to us from the an- 
cient schools. Of various and 
beautiful shapes, the design is gene- 
rally of the lightest character; the 
artists, pleased no doubt with the 
elegance of their compositions, have 



frequently inscribed their names on 
the vases, with short and witty 
jests expressive of joy, happiness, 
invitations to drink, to pass life 
merrily, expressions which may 
appear to be discordant with the 
figures represented, but for which 
there exists a reason which it is not 
always easy to penetrate as they 
afford a field for extensive research. 
These arguments may be particu- 
larly applied to the archeology of 
the fine series of argonautic vases 
found in the necropolis of Agilla 
and in that of Cere which are united 
in this museum. 

This celebrated maritime expe- 
dition of the heroic ages was hith- 
erto considered as having afforded 
a subject of fiction amongst the 
Greek and Latin poets, nor did any 
monuments exist in support of 
their assertions, but in this collec- 
tion is an ample development of 
the Thessalian story which gives a 
new, a better, and a diflPerent idea 
of that celebrated event. On one 
of the vases the principal chiefs 
who partook of the dangers and 
glory of the enterprise are prepar- 
ing for their departure and putting 
on their armour: the attendants, 
obliged to serve and foUow their 
lords, prepare the shields, each of 
which is distinguished by an em- 
blem; on one a lion, on another a 
buU, on others a throne or a branch 
full of leaves ; not only does this 
vase prove the antiquity of heraldry 
but the mantles worn by the per- 
sonages show their degrees of rank,' 
and the same ornaments that cover 
the mantle of the chief appear on 
those of his attendant. 

On other vases are represented 
the calamities which befel the royal 
house of ^son and Pelias ; the la- 
mentations of Lemnos, the ven- 
geance of Medea, are expressed in a 
manner diflering altogether from 
the accounts of the Greek and Latin 
stage, or from the epic poetry of 
those nations: the hand of these 



ROMAN STATES. — ROME. EIGHTH DAY. 



719 



ancient artists was guided by nar- 
rations now lost, as appears on a 
vase placed in the centre of those 
described, on which the final catas- 
trophe of the conquest of the golden 
fleece is expressed in a mode hith- 
erto unknown; Jason, when nearly 
devoured bv the dragon, is drawn 
out of his jaws by Minerva; the 
name written in clear purple letters 
near the figure of the chief leaves 
no doubt on the subject. 

After the argonautic vases come 
those which represent the deeds of 
Hercules and the mysteries of Dio- 
nysius, forming a series of subjects 
difficult to explain, the traditions 
and opinions of the learned being 
frequently at variance. 

A design of the utmost perfection 
and purity of style with an expres- 
sion suited to the subject is that of 
CEdipus in his travelling dress, 
deeply meditating on the enigma 
proposedjby the sphinx, who appears 
on the summit of a rock in those 
mixed fantastic forms of a lion and 
a young female under which she is 
represented in the monuments of 
art. On another vase the artist, 
without regarding the design, ridi- 
culed this subject by representing 
a man with an enormous head in 
the same pensive attitude as CEdi- 
pus, and a monkey in lieu of the 
sphinx. 

The vases relative to the ancient 
systems of theogony, to the Homeric 
descriptions, to the public games, 
banquets, and other usages of those 
times, open a wide field for research, 
whether we consider the beauty 
and excellence of the design, which 
in the gymnastic scenes often reach 
perfection, or the light they throw 
on the classic authors and other 
monuments of antiquity. 

In one of the closets are vases of 
a smaller size but highly interest- 
ing from the variety of their forms 
and caprice of invention, particu- 
larly in those used for drinking; 
some have the form of a ram, 



others of the humble animal that 
carried Silenus, the face of an 
Ethiopian and of Silenus, who ex- 
presses his joy on receiving the 
gifts of his disciple. This closet 
also contains bowls and vases of 
various forms of the most finished 
workmanship. 

The Egyptian Mixseum. — Several 
statues and colossal figures con- 
temporaueous with their prototypes 
are imited in this museum. The 
colossus of Queen Twea, the small 
statue of Menephtah I seated on a 
throne, the fragment of the throne 
of Rhamses IH, are of the period of 
the dynasty that reigned between 
the year 1822 and 1474 before the 
Christian era. Without entering 
into a detail of all the monuments 
representing the human form, ani- 
mals, vases, or other objects, we 
shall arrest our attention on the 
most remarkable; the two lions 
next to the colossus of Twea, though 
the last of the works executed 
under the Pharaohs which are 
known to us, bear testimony to the 
talent of the Egyptian sculptors 
even at the decline of that empire. 

The torso of King Nectanebo, 
placed in the hall of lions, is not 
less worthy of attention for the 
beauty of its form; nor can we avoid 
noticing another torso in the same 
hall representing one of the mini- 
sters of state, it is executed in 
alabaster of Gournah. 

Continuing our review of this 
museum we shall find a new, though 
indirect, proof of the errors hitherto 
committed in judging of Egyptian 
art when it represented the hirnian 
form. In the large haU contiguous 
to that of the lions, fitted up in the 
Egytian style, are the monuments 
of imitation or those produced in 
Rome in the Egyptian manner at 
the period of the emperors, the 
greater part of which were found 
in the ViUa Adriannanear Tivoli. 
To an imitation of the works exe- 
cuted under the Pharaohs and 



720 



CENTRAL ITALY. — ROME. EIGHTH DAT. 



without attempting to correct the 
original taste prevailing during so 
many centuries in Egypt, these 
artists added the softness and 
finish which distinguished the 
Greek school at Rome. An exam- 
ple is observed in the Antinous, a 
statue placed in this hall, which 
from the beauty of its form has 
been named by artists the Egyptian 
Apollo. If imitation has produced 
a work of such merit, how can we 
doubt of the perfection which sculp- 
ture had attained in Egypt? not 
that all Egyptian statues could 
aerve as models, but several dis- 
persed throughout Europe are equal 
in beauty to the Antinous. The 
works of imitation representing 
animals are not less useful in judg- 
ing of Egyptian art; in comparing 
the works of the Egyptian and 
Roman artist, if the former is not 
superior he certainly is not inferior, 
as the Egyptian, in the representa- 
tion of animals, always possessed 
the greatest degree of skill, as is 
evidently proved by the lions of 
King Nectanebo, by the prodigious 
quantity of volatiles, quadrupeds, 
reptiles, and scaraboei abounding in 
this museum, whose resemblance 
to nature is so perfect that they 
might serve for the study of na- 
turalists. 

Architecture. — In order to com- 
plete the Egyptian collection of the 
Vatican of works of art in its pri- 
mitive state the only monuments 
wanting were those of architecture ; 
the works preserved till the present 
day in Egypt attest the boldness of 
imagination and power of execution 
showu by that nation in this art, 
and excite a sentiment of regret in 
those who have not had an oppor- 
tunity of observing the monuments 
spread along the banks of the 
Nile. 

The Vatican museum possesses a 
small but valuable remnant of this 
nature ; a capital from Thebes of the 
second order of architecture, formed 



of sandstone in the shape of an ex- 
panded lotus ; that it is genuine is 
attested by the vestiges of yellow 
colour which originally covered it, 
as it was customary amongst the 
Egyptians to paint those species of 
stone which did not admit of polish. 
This small remnant, placed in the 
gallery of mummies, may be found 
useful in comparing the Greek style 
with the original Egyptian. 

We shall not dwell on the various 
productions of the mechanical arts 
abounding in this collection, on the 
fabrication of papyri, the weaving 
of cotton in the bandages of mum- 
mies, nor on the admirable art of 
preserving for thousands of years 
the remains of the mortal frame, on 
the sandals varying in shape, or the 
works in bronze and sycamore wood 
on which are represented figures of 
the gods or of embalmed bodies, 
cases containing animals reduced 
to mummies, and those in which 
writings have been deposited ; one 
in the gallery of mummies is par- 
cularly interesting, as it represents 
on its four sides hieroglyphic in- 
scriptions relative to the four genii, 
the companions and assistants of 
Osiris in the regions below, who ap- 
pear in their respective characters. 
In this collection are numerous 
small vessels of various substances, 
containing the ointment used in 
painting the eyehds, others were 
destined to preserve balsam or per- 
fumes. 

Such is the valuable collection of 
monuments bearing testimony to 
the knowledge of the Egyptians, of 
that knowledge which Moses, hav- 
ing imbibed, became powerful in 
acts and words (Acts of the Apos- 
tles, chapter VII). Such are the 
resources laid open to the learned 
in this museum by order of the 
reigning pontiff Gregory XVI, and 
due to his incessant zeal to promote 
the interests of religion. Here the 
theologian will find the vestiges of 
the primitive traditions which pre- 



ROMAIC STATES. — ROME. EIGHTH DAT. 



?21 



ceded the revelation written by 
Moses and the prophets ; here sa- 
cred philology derives information 
for the explanation of oriental bib- 
lical texts ; how many points of 
contact exist between the customs 
of the two nations, the people of 
God and that of Egypt, whose his- 
tory is so closely connected ; what 
a new light is shed on a multitude 
of Hebrew idioms and forms of 
language, arising from the similarity 
of a great number of scriptural 
phrases with the forms of the ancient | 
Egyptian language preserved in the | 
hieroglyphic inscriptions. j 

To the student of sacred writ, it ; 
will be gratifying to see the portrait 
of Ptolemy Philadelphus ; under 
whose auspices, and doubtless pro- 
videntially, was undertaken the 
version of the scriptures from He- 
brew into Greek, called the septua- 
gint. The civilized nations of that 
time wave thus enabled to read the 
sacred code, and prepared to receive 
the first glimmerings of the doc- 
trines of the unity of God and of 
the redemption which was approach- 
ing ; the statues of Ptolemy and 
Arsmoe are placed near that part 
of the Library which contains the 
celebrated manuscript of this ines- 
timable version. 

In the Egyptian monuments col- 
lected in this museum a distinct 
history is traced of sculpture and 
•architecture, we shall now examine 
writing and paintmg. 

Writbiij. — The primitive state of 
the Egyptian characters is proved 
by the vestiges that remain of the 
earliest kinds of writing : the first 
was that of the simple represen- 
tation of the idea, the second was at 
once symbolic and phonetic, the 
tMrd the plain alphabetic expres- 
sion, at least in Greek and Roman 
names ; the union of these systems 
constitutes the beauty of the writing 
caUed hieroglyphic. 

The written papyri, some in the 
hieroglyphic, others in the hieratic 
and demotic characters, amount to 



about thirty-two ; these line the 
walls of the fourth room after the 
gaUery of mummies. 

In the fifth are disposed inscrip- 
tions relatiag to history, and in the 
left angle that of Queen Amense 
illustrated by Rossellini, near which 
is the precious scaraboeus called 
that of Memnon, or Amenoph HI, 
engraved in honour of that king, to 
celebrate his marriage with Queen 
Taia and the happy state of Egypt 
at that period. On the fragment of 
a pilaster of brown stone is an in- 
teresting inscription indicating that 
Egypt was governed by a female, 
in the want of a male heir to the 
throne. 

A valuable historic monument in 
the haU of statues is that of a priest, 
whose tunic is covered with a long 
inscription purporting that five 
kiags had reigned successively 
during his ministry : three Egyp- 
tian, Apries, Amasis, Psamma- 
cherites, and two Persian, Cam- 
byses and Darius. We shaU not 
dwell on the numerous dedicatory 
and funeral inscriptions of other 
monuments in granite, alabaster, 
basalt, existing in this collection, as 
several have not yet been illustrated. 

The pure hieroglyphic characters 
are preserved in the inscriptions on 
the two hons of King Nectanebo, 
and in the sarcophagus of a priest 
of the goddess Pascht, named Psam- 
meticus, in the hall of urns. In 
that of the lions are other hierogly- 
phics in profile on the throne of 
Ramses III, those on the cover of 
the sarcophagus of Imotph in the 
gallery of mummies and around the 
sarcophagus of Manes in the hall 
of urns are of the most elegant 
execution. 

Of the third class of plain outlines 
are the hieroglyphics on the sca- 
raboei, amulets, and funeral vases. 
Of the fourth, called hnear, are the 
inscriptions on the mummy cases. 
The fifth comprises those painted, 
as on the monuments of Ramses X, 
and of the daughter of Takellothis. 



722 



CENTRAL ITALY. — ROME. EIGHTH DAT. 



The great advantage derived from 
the knowledge of these characters 
is their appHcation to chronology 
and history, and whenever on the 
monuments of Egypt any royal 
name is written, it is easy to assign 
the period to which it belongs, as 
one of those names generally cor- 
responds to a certain date. The 
Vatican collection embraces chro- 
nological dates indicated by royal 
names, twenty-eight in nmnber, ac- 
cording to the following series : 

1. Renoubka, one of the most 
ancient kings of the XVI dynasty, 
who Uved about the time of Abra- 
ham. This monument was found 
in the tombs of Gournah, the name 
is written on the necklace or collar. 

2. Amenoph I, written on the 
mummy case (hall of urns), and 
unless this be the title of a divinity 
its date would be the year 1832 be- 
fore Christ. 

3. 4. Amense and Amenenho, the 
former reigning queen of the XVIII 
dynasty ; the latter, her husband, 
1750 years before Christ. 

5. Thutmes IV, the fifth king of 
the preceding dynasty, succeeded to 
his mother Amense, and reigned 
from the year 1749 to 1727 before 
Christ. 

6. 7. To the same dynasty be- 
longs Amenoph III, the eighth king ; 
the scaraboeus above mentioned, 
bearing his name and that of his 
wife Taia, belongs to the year 1690 
before Christ. The six colossi of 
the goddess Pascht, two of which 
are in the haU of lions, the others in 
the hemicyle, were executed under 
this king. 

8. Menephtah I. The museum 
possesses in the Egyptian hall an 
elegant statue of this king, who 
reigned from 1604 to 1579 before 
the present era, and was father of 
the great Sesostris. 

9. 10. Twea and Contheres; the 
first, the wife of the above-named 
king and the mother of Sesostris, is 
represented in a colossus of black 
breccia placed in the hall of lions; 



the other represented on the pilaster 
of the colossus was probably the 
wife of Sesostris. 

11. Eamses III, the Sesostris of 
the Greek writers, who reigned from 
1565 to 1494, B.C. His name is fre- 
quently repeated on the fragment 
of his seated statue to the left in 
the hall of lions and on the colossus 
of Queen Twea. 

12. Siphtah also belonged to the 
eighteenth dynasty, but the period 
of his reign is uncertain. 

13. Ramses V, second king of the 
nineteenth dynasty, in the fifteenth 
century B.C., is mentioned in a hiera- 
tic papyrus twelve, letter c. 

14. Ramses X, founder of the 
twentieth dynasty, belongs to the 
thirteenth century before the pre- 
sent era; his name appears on a 
small painted sandstone placed in 
the fifth chamber. 

15. Osorchod the son of Takel- 
lothis, who reigned eight centuries 
before the Christian era. This 
prince is represented on painted 
wood in the fifth room, in the 
act of offering a sacrifice to the god 
Phre. 

16. Psammeticus I, fourth king 
of the twenty-sixth dynasty, who 
reigned between 654 and 609 b.c. 
The museum possesses several mo- 
numents of this king found at Sais, 
his native place. His name is in- 
scribed on two statues in the hall 
of Egyptian figures, on a sarcopha- 
gus, and on a demotic papyrus 
twelve, letter A. 

1 7. Apries, of the same dynasty, 
588 years before the present era, 
whose second name is Ramesto. 

18. Amasis, his successor. 

19. Psammacherites, who suc- 
ceeded Amasis. 

20. Cambyses, the Persian king, 
oppressor of Egypt, 525 years B.C. 
His name appears on the same 
statue. 

21. Darius, the successor of Cam- 
byses. 

22. Nectanebo, of the tAventy- 
ninth dynasty, three centuries and 



ROMAN STATES. — ROME. EIGHTH DAY. 



723 



a half B.C, and the last of the Pha- ! 
raohs. To this period belong the 
two Uons, master-pieces of art, and ; 
the beautiful torso which represents 
this king, 

23, Ptolemy Philadelphus, who j 
reigned 284 years b.c. His colossal \ 
statue is in the centre of the hall of 
hons. 

24, Arsinoe, the wife of the 
above-named king, whose statue { 
is on the right of that of Ptolemy; \ 
both statues bearing inscriptions on 
their pilasters. [ 

25, Ptolemy Philopator, whose 
name is on the papyrus in the de- 
motic characters, dating from the 
third year of his reign, or the 219 , 
B.C. Number eleven, letter e. j 

26, Arsinoe, his sister, and wife, j 

27, 28, Ptolemy Evergetes and 
Berenice his wife, the parents of 
the preceding. i 

The numerous monuments, not 
included in the above list, might 
furnish documents of the reigns of 
the Roman emperors. The space 
of 1,600 centuries comprised within 
the dates which have been already 
indicated and inscribed on the mo- 
numents, the authenticity of which 
reposes on the authority of histori- 
ans and chronicles, particularly 
that of Eusebius, rectified on the 
Armenian text far more exact than 
the Greek of ScaUger, is sufficient 
to show the rich mine of historical 
knowledge opened by the Egyptian 
writing. Its material construction 
offers a large field for discussion 
on the first essays of writing as an 
art, while it furnishes also a means 
of advancing the progress of oriental 
pliilology. 

Painting. — Although in remote 
times painting was not distinct 
from writing, as several arguments 
attest respecting Egypt, we shall 
consider them as independent of 
each other in the monuments of 
that country. Painting, as it was 
thirty or forty centuries ago, exists 
in its original state and excites 



surprise. When judging of this 
art in Egypt allowance must be 
made for the harshness of the lines 
and the want of perspective. The 
facility of the inventions and the 
spirited composition are the strik- 
ing points of these monuments. An 
example of these is seen in the 
painting on the case, placed in the 
hall of urns, in which was preserved 
the mummy of Giotmut, the mother 
of Chims Hierogrammateus of Am- 
mon at Thebes ; one side represents 
the funeral procession moving to- 
wards the Theban necropolis; on 
the other the deceased supplicates 
six of the gods, in order to obtain a 
free passage to the celestial regions; 
these he has finally attained, as re- 
presented in the interior part of 
the case, in company of his mother, 
whose inscription is on one of the 
paintings of the interior. The 
colouring and the various scenes 
possess a high degree of interest. 
It was an estabhshed doctrine 
amongst the Egyptians, that the 
souls of the just enjoyed an unal- 
terable repose when they arrived in 
presence of the gods, but in a state 
of uncertainty they believed that 
assistance might be derived Irom 
the remembrance of the living; for 
this reason the mother is seated 
near her son, expressing joy at the 
offerings and prayers of the sur- 
viving relatives, a remnant of the 
primitive traditions of the human 
race relative to a future state and 
to the assistance the living may 
render to the dead. Each of these 
representations is accompanied with 
analogous hieroglyphic inscriptions. 
Of the paintings on wood that of 
the son of TakeUothis is remarkable 
for the vivacity of its colouring; 
the figures and various scenes 
which cover the papyri represent 
the rites and circumstances that 
precede and follow the judgment 
that Osiris is supposed to pass on 
souls; nor is the melancholy sight 
wanting of the punishments suffer- 



724 



CENTRAL ITALY. — EOME. EIGHTH DAY. 



ed from fire and the furies, so ac- 
curately was the tradition preserved 
relative to the destiny of souls when 
separated from the body. The re- 
presentation on paintings seven, 
letter a, eight, and fourteen, relate 
to these subjects. 

The Gallery of Paintings contains 
several master-pieces of art, united 
in this gallery by order of the reign- 
ing pontiff Gregory XVI. 

The portrait of a Venetian Doge 
is by Titian. 

The miracle performed by St 
Gregory the Great, by Andrea 
Sacchi- 

The Descent from the Cross, by 
Caravaggio. 

The Vision of St Komuald, by 
Sacchi. 

Communion of St Jerome, by 
Dominichino. 

Martyrdom of St Erasmus, by 
Poussin. 

St Processus and St Martinian, 
by Valentin. 

Christ in the Tomb, by Mantegna. 

The Virgin, St Thomas, and St 
Jerome, by Guido. 

Magdalen, St Thomas, by Guer- 
cino. 

Martyrdom of St Peter, by Guido. 

Coronation of the Virgin, by Pin- 
turicchio. 

Resurrection of Christ: Birth of 
Christ, by Perugino. 

Transfiguration : Coronation of 
the Virgin: The Three Mysteries, 
viz.: the Annunciation, Nativity, 
and Presentation, by Raphael. 

Our Saviour, by Correggio. 

The Virgin, Sts Sebastian, Fran- 
cis, Anthony, Peter, Ambrose, and 
Catherine, by Titian. 

Michehna of Pesaro, by Boccaccio. 

St Helen, by Paul Veronese. 

The Virgin, Child, St Joseph, by 
Garofalo. 

Madonna of Poligno, by Raphael. 

Landscape, with Animals, by 
Potter. 

JMadonna, St Laurence, and others, 
by Perugmo. 



Miracle of St Nicholas of Ban, 
by Angelo da Fiesole. 

Annunciation, by Boccaccio. 

Chambers of Raphael. — The greater 
part of these chambers had been 
already painted by Signorelh, Peru- 
gino, and other artists, when Juhus 
11, at the solicitation of Bramante^ 
invited Raphael from Florence, and 
ordered him to represent the dispute 
on the holy sacrament. 

At the completion of the work 
the Pope dispensed with the labours 
of the other artists, caused their 
paintings to be effaced, and en- 
trusted the execution to Raphael 
alone. 

These frescoes were neglected in 
past times, and having suffered also 
from the damp, they no longer pre- 
serve their original freshness of 
colouring, but their composition 
and design will ever form a subject 
of admiration. 

The fire in the Borgo, which 
happened in 847, is the subject of 
the first fresco. It would appear 
that Raphael was inspired by the 
poetic description of the burning of 
Troy, having introduced, among 
other episodes, that of JEneas bear- 
ing Anchises on his shoulders and 
followed by Creusa. 

Over the window is the Justifi- 
cation of St Leo III in presence of 
Charlemagne, the cardinals, and 
archbishops. 

The third fresco represents the 
victory gained by Leo IV over the 
Saracens at Ostia : the fourth, the ' 
coronation of Charlemagne by Leo 
III in the basilic of St Peter's. 

The paintings of the ceihng are 
by Pietro Perugino ; these, out of 
respect for his master, Raphael 
would not allow to be effaced. 

The School of Athens. — The scene 
is laid under the portico of a palace. 
In the middle of the upper steps are 
Plato and Aristoteles ; on the right, 
Socrates and Alcibiades ; Diogenes 
holding a book is on the second step; 
Pythagoras surrounded by his 



ftoMAN STATES.-— HOME. EIGHTH DAT. 



725' 



disciples, at the end on the 
right. 

To some of the figures the artist 
has given the portraits of personages 
of his time : Archimedes is Bra- 
mante ; the young man with his 
hand on his breast, the Duke of 
Urbino; the one kneehng, the Duke 
of Mantua ; the two on the left of 
Zoroaster are Pietro Perugino and 
Eaphael, the latter wearing a black 
cap. 

Opposite this painting is the Dis- 
pute on the Holy Sacrament. The 
Trinity, the Virgin, and St John 
the Baptist, occupy the upper part ; 
at the sides of the altar are the 
four doctors of the Latin church, 
several of the fathers, and many 
saints of the Old and New Testa- 
ment disputing on this profound 
mystery. 

In the painting of Parnassus, 
Apollo, in the midst of the nine 
Muses, is playing on the violin. 
Around the momitain are several 
ancient and modern poets: Homer, 
Horace, Virgil, Ovid, Ennius, 
Sappho, Propertius, Dante, Boccac- 
cio, and Sannazaro. 

Over the window Jurisprudence 
is represented as assisted by Pru- 
dence, Fortitude, and Temperance ; 
on the sides are two historical sub- 
jects : the Em^Deror Justinian deli- 
vering the digest to Trebonian ; 
Gregory IX the decretals to a con- 
sistorial advocate. 

The ceiling is divided into nine 
subjects. In the centre, angels 
support the arms of the church ; in 
the rounds are Philosophy, Justice, 
Theology, and Poetry. In the four 
oblong paintings are represented 
Fortune, the judgment of Solomon, 
Adam and Eve tempted by the 
serpent, Marsyas flayed alive by 
ApoUo. 

Chamber (if Heliodorus. — Heliodo- 
rus, the prefect of Seleucus Philo- 
pator, king of Syria, was ordered 
by this prince to plunder the temple 
of Jerusalem, 176 years before the 



Christian era. While preparing for 
this sacrilege, God, at the prayer of 
the high priest Onias, sent against 
him a horseman and two angels 
armed with whips, who drove him 
out of the temple ; by an anachro- 
nism common to the painters of his 
time, Raphael mtroduced Julius H 
into the group which he painted ; 
the other groups were finished by 
Pietro di Cremona, a pupil of Cor- 
reggio, and by Julio Romano. 

In the painting opposite St Leo I 
is represented on his way to meet 
Attila, king of the Hims, whose 
intention was to plunder Rome. 
Struck with terror at the sight of 
St Peter and St Paul flying in the 
air with swords imsheathed, Attila 
hastens to retreat. 

The third fresco is the miracle of 
Bolsena ; a priest, doubting of the 
real presence of Christ in the 
Eucharist which he was on the 
pomt of consecrating, saw blood on 
the corporal. Julius II, with other 
contemporary personages, is present 
at the mass. 

The fourth represents St Peter 
when the angel dehvers him from 
his chains and leads him out of 
prison. The eflects of light are 
admirably expressed in this pic- 
ture ; that of the angel in the 
prison differing from that of the 
same angel out of it, and that of 
the moon from that of the lighted 
torch held by the soldier. 

The chiaro-oscuro of the ceiling 
is by Raphael ; the Caryatides, by 
Polydore Caravaggio. 

Hall of Constantine. — Raphael, 
having completed the designs of 
this haU, commenced the fresco in- 
tended to represent the victory of 
Constantine over Maxentius near 
the Milvian bridge, and had finished 
the lateral figures of Justice and 
Benignity when his earthly career 
was closed. 

After his death Julio Romano 
was charged by Clement VII with 
the execution of the work, and 
O 2 



726 



CENTRAL ItALT. — ^ROMfi. AQUEDUCTS. 



painted the apparition of the Cross 
to Constantine. 

In the fresco opposite Constantine 
is baptized by Pope St Silvester ; 
tlie painting is by II Fattore. 

Between the windows Del Colle. 
has represented, from the car- 
toons of Raphael, the donation 
o ■ Rome to St Silvester by Con- 
stantine. 

The eight pontiffs on the sides 
of these paintings are by Giuho 
Romano; the chiaro-oscuro, by Ca- 
ravaggio ; the ceUing, by Lauretti ; 
the other subjects, by the two 
Zuccari. 

On the ground floor of the palace 
is the manufactory of mosaics, con- 
taining upwards of 10,000 enamels 
of different colours. 

The gardens of the palace, com- 
menced under Nicholas V, were en- 
larged by Bramante under Julius 
n. In a niche of the principal 
front is a large bronze pineapple, 
found at the Pantheon. The viUa, 
built by Pius IV and restored under 
Leo XII, contains paintings by 
Boccaccio and Zuccari. 

Prom Monte Mario, on which is 
a vDla belonging to the Palconieri 
family, the view embraces Rome 
and the Campagna. 

The ViUa Madama, formerly the 
property of Margaret, daughter of 
Charles V, and now of the King of 
Naples, was commenced on the 
designs of Raphael, and finished, 
after his death, by Giulio Romano, 
who, with the assistance of Giovanni 
d'Udine, painted the portico, the 
frieze, and ceiling of the principal 
hall. These works are in a state of 
decay. 

AQUEDUCTS. 

Ancient Rome was supplied 
with water from fourteen different 
springs, only three of which remain : 
the Vergine Felice, and Paolina ; 
but these afford a quantity of 
water sufficient for the use of the 
inhabitants, for the ornament of 
the city, and for 108 public, and 



the ir calculable number of private 
fountains which it contains. 

The Aqua Vergine supphes thir- 
teen large and thirty- seven small 
fountains, from a volume estimated 
at 1,617 Roman oncie, which pours 
into the city 66,000 cubic metres 
every twenty-four hours. 

The Aqua Felice takes its rise in 
a hill called Castelletto, near la 
Colonna, sixteen miles distant, and 
enters the city near the Anfiteatro 
Castrense, where its level is about 
fort3''-eight metres over that of the 
river. One of its branches takes 
the direction of St Maria Maggiore ; 
the other that of Termini, the 
Quirinal, Piazza Barberini, and 
Capitol ; it then descends into the 
forum to the Bocca della Verita 
and the Piazza Giudea, after having 
furnished in its course water for 
twenty-seven public and an im 
mense number of private foun- 
tains. 

It produces 1,027 inches, or 
20,537 cubic metres every twenty- 
four hours. 

Aqua Paolina. — The construction 
of this aqueduct was commenced 
and completed by Paul V, of the 
Borghese family, who confided its 
execution to Gio. Fontana. An 
ancient aqueduct of Trajan was 
brought into use for the passage of 
the waters from the lake of Brac- 
ciano, a distance of twenty-two 
miles. An increase, from the same 
lake, was introduced by Clement X, 
another mider Leo XII, from the 
Stracciacappe and Alseatine lakes. 

These waters imite on the Jani- 
culum, where they divide into two 
branches ; one descends towards 
the Vatican, the borgo, and Piazza 
St Pietro : the other into Traste- 
vere, after having left a volume of 
180 inches at the Paohna fountain. 
A body of 282 inches passes 
through the Ponte Sisto to the 
fountain, and thence disperses itself 
in the Via Giulia and vicinity. 

The Paolina furnishes 4,709 



ROMAN STATES. — ROME. OBELISKS. 



727 



inches, or 94,000 cubic metres 
every twenty-four hours. 

The three aqueducts, if united, 
would present a length of 108,000 
metres, equal to twenty-seven 
French leagues ; the volume of 
water with which they supply 
Rome amounts to 180,500 cubic 
metres every twenty-four hours. 

OBELISKS. 

It is justly observed in the 
'Library of Entertaming Know- 
ledge,' vol, i, p. 269, " that of all 
the works of Egyptian art, for the 
simplicity of their form, their size 
and unity, and the beauty of their 
sculptured decorations, none can be 
put in comparison with the obe- 
lisks. That as lasting records of 
those ancient monarchs whose 
names and titles are sculptured on 
them, they possess a high historical 
value, which is increased by the 
fact that some of the most remark- 
able of these venerable monuments 
now adorn the Roman capital. The 
Caesars seem to have vied with one 
another in transporting these enor- 
mous blocks from their native soil ; 
and since the revival of the study 
of antiquities in Rome, several of 
her enlightened pontiffs, and parti- 
cularly Sixtus V and Pius VI, have 
again erected those which had 
fallen down, and were lying on the 
ground in fragments. 

The obelisks were erected by the 
Egyptian kings before the conquest 
of theu' country by Cambyses of 
Persia. As their example was fol- 
lowed by the Ptolomies and Ro- 
mans, these monuments belong to 
three different epochs. The Fla- 
minian. Lateran, and Monte Citorio 
obelisks are acknowledged, from 
their designs and incriptions, to be 
of the first epoch, that of the Pha- 
raohs. 

We shall proceed to give a brief 
description of the twelve obelisks 
of different dimensions which now 
decorate the city. 



The Flaminian Obelisk is situated 
in the centre of the Piazza del 
Popolo : this obelisk is seventy- 
four feet high, exclusively of its 
pedestal, it is covered with hiero- 
glyphics. It was originally erected 
at Heliopolis, in Lower Egypt, by 
Rhamses HI, or the great Sesostris, 
as a decoration of the temple of the 
Sun, to whom it was dedicated. 
The name of this monarch, re- 
peated several times in the car- 
touches, proves the exactness of 
Ammianus Marcelhnus, who has 
inserted in his writings a part of 
the inscriptions translated by Her- 
mapion. 

After the battle of Actium and 
the conquest of Egypt, Augustus 
transported this obelisk to Rome 
and placed it in the circus Maximus. 
In 1587 Sixtus V transferred it, 
though broken into three parts, to 
its present position, where it was 
erected by Domenico Fontana. 

Obelisk at Monte Citorio. — This 
obelisk, erected at Heliopolis by 
Psammeticus I, king of Egypt, 
whose name is frequently repeated 
in the hieroglyphics, was brought 
to Rome by Augustus, who placed 
it in the Campus Martins, where it 
served as a sun dial. It was found 
under Benedict XIV, in 1748, and 
placed in its present position in the 
eighteenth year of Pius VI. It is 
of red granite, and is sixty- eight 
feet high, exclusively of the modern 
pedestal, which is thirteen. 

The sculptures on the west side 
are nearly aU erased. Beneath the 
base of the pyramidal top we have 
the crowned hawk, a pair on each 
side, with a serpent behind each 
attached to a globe. There are 
only two varieties of cartouches, 
one containing the praenomen and 
the other the nama 

On another face of the pyramidal 
top is a sphinx, without a beard, 
reclining on an altar. On the south 
face the god Re, the sun, with the 
hawk's head, is seated opposite the 



728 



CENTRAL ITALY. — HOME, OiSELlSivS. 



reclining sphinx. On the east face 
Osiris is opposite to the same 
figure. The vertical angle of the 
pyramidal faces contains the scara- 
baeus sacer, with a large disk, 
almost touching two curved extre- 
mities of its wings. 

Later an Obelisk— This obelisk, 
the largest in Rome, was erected at 
Thebes by Theutmosis II, king of 
Egypt, as is ascertained from the car- 
touches that bear his name. It was 
transported from Thebes to Alex- 
andria, by Constantine, and thence 
by his son Constantius to Rome, 
where it was raised in the circus 
maximus. It was found at a depth 
of twenty-two feet under ground, 
broken into three pieces, but was 
restored by Dominico Fontana, the 
architect of Sixtus V. It is of seyne 
granite, covered with hieroglyphics, 
and ninety -nine feet in height with- 
out the pedestal. The surface dis- 
tinctly exhibits traces of fire. The 
original inscription is contained 
in six vertical lines. 

Sallustian Obelisk, — This obelisk, 
found in the gardens of SaUust, was 
raised opposite the church of the 
Trinita de' Monti, by Pius VI in 
1789. It is of Egyptian granite, 
and is forty -four feet high, without 
the pedestal. 

The Pantheon Obelisk, placed in 
the centre of this piazza, by Clement 
XI, was found in digging the foun- 
dations of the convent of the church 
of the Minerva on the spot where 
the temple of Isis and Serapis once 
stood. It is covered with hierogly- 
phics. A fountain surrounds its 
base. Its height is about nineteen 
feet. 

The Minerva Obelisk, found near 
that above-mentioned, was erected 
here by Bernini under Alexander 
VII, on the back of a marble ele- 
phant. Its height does not exceed 
12^ feet. The hieroglyphics attest 
that it was raised by Psammetichus 
II, of the thirty-sixth dynasty 
to Neith, the same goddess as 



he Minerva of the Greeks and 
Romans. 

The Navona Obelisk, whose height 
is fifty-one feet, was erected by 
Bernini, under Innocent X, on the 
top of a rock, which is about forty- 
one feet above the level of the soil. 
It was foimd in the circus, com- 
monly called of Caracalla, beyond 
the gate of St Sebastian, and was 
originaliy dedicated, as is proved 
by the hieroglyphics, to the Empe- 
ror Domitian. 

The Vatican Obelisk, of seyne 
granite, is said to have been raissd 
at Heliopolis by Nuncoreus, son of 
Sesostris, and was brought to Rome 
by Caligula, who placed it in his 
circus near the Vatican, where it 
remained untouched, during all the 
vicissitudes of the city ; in the year 
1586, it was erected on the spot 
it now occupies under Sixtus V, by 
his architect, Domenico Fontana. 

It is without hieroglyphics ; is 
seventy-two feet high, eight feet 
four inches in diameter, and 126 
feet from the ground to the cross. 

On its base is engraved an in- 
scription purporting that it was 
dedicated by Caligula to Augustus 
and Tiberius. 

The Obelisks at St Maria Mag- 
giore and at Monte CavaLlo were 
brought to Rome by the Emperor 
Claudius, who placed them before 
the mausoleum of Augustus. The 
former was erected by Sixtus V, 
under the direction of D. Fontana, 
the latter by Pius VI. They are of ' 
red granite, without hieroglyphics, 
and forty -three feet high. 

Pincian Obelisk. — The hierogly- 
phics of this obelisk present an eu- 
logium of Antinous, the favourite 
of Adrian. It was found in the 
circus of Aurelian, beyond the Porta 
Maggiore, in the time of Urban VIII, 
and was raised on the Pincian hiU 
in 1823, under Pius VII. Its height 
is twenty-eight feet without the 
pedestal. 

The obelisk of the villa Mattei 



R03IAN STATES. — E03IE. ENVIRONS. 



729 



was discovered near the temple of 
Isis and Serapis, the upper part 
alone is antique, the hyeroglyphics 
on the lower part are an imitation. 
The quarries of the seyne granite, 
the material of which the Theban 
obelisks were made, extend from the 
island of Philse along the whole line 
of the cataracs, the northern point 
of Elephantine forming their limit 
in that direction. This red granite 
is known by its beautiful colour, 
and owing to its hardness it receives 
the fine polish observable on the 
Roman obelisks. 

ITINERARY OP THE EiyrVIRONS. 

As the environs of Eome excite 
interest from the beauty of their 
situation, the associations of history, 
and the remains of their antique mo- 
numents, a short description is given 
of the principal places, viz. : Tivoli, 
Paiestrina, Frascati, Albano, and 
Veii. 

Road to Tivoli. — About a mile 
from the Porta St Lorenzo, is the 
basilic of that name, which has al- 
ready been described. 

At the fourth mile is the Anio, 
now called Teverone, which sepa- 
rates Latium from the Sabine ter- 
ritory, and unites with the Tiber, 
near the Salarian bridge, three 
miles from the city. 

At the tenth mile are seen re- 
mains of the Tiburtine way, formed 
like the other Eoman roads, of large 
polygonal blocks of basaltic lava. 

About the twelfth mile is the 
Tartarous lake, an appellation de- 
rived from the quality of its tar- 
tarous and calcareous waters, which 
petrify vegetables. 

Solfatara Bridge. — The waters 
that pass under this little bridge are 
of a bluish colour, and exhale a 
strong sulphureous smell. These 
waters, called albulse by Strabo, 
Pausanias, and Martial, issue from a 
lake, about a mile from the road, 
which was formerly a mile in cir- 
cuit, but at the present day its 



average diameter does not exceed 
450 feet. The bituminous substances 
formed by these waters are con- 
densed on their surface, and give 
rise to different shaped bodies called 
floating islands. In the neighbour- 
hood of the lake were the thermse 
of Agrippa, of which some remains 
still exist. 

Tomb of the Plautian Family. — 
This sepulchral monument was 
raised by the Plautii, one of the 
great Eoman families under the 
republic and the empire. It is built 
of travertine stone, in a round form, 
and has half columns on the exte- 
rior with inscriptions, two of which 
remain, one of M. Plautius Silvanus 
consul and VII vir of the epulones, 
distinguished by his exploits in 
Ulyria ; the other of T. Plautius 
Silvanus, who accompanied Claudius 
in his expedition to Britain. The 
constructions at the top prove that 
in the middle ages it was converted 
into a tower of defence. 

Villa Adriana. — The Emperor 
Adrian, having visited the different 
parts of the empire, decided on 
imitating in this villa all those 
buildings that had pleased him 
most in his travels. The lyceum, 
academy, prytaneum, and Pgecile of 
Athens, the valley of Tempe, the 
Canope of Alexandria, Tartarus, 
the Elysian fields. 

In the middle ages the viUa was 
greatly injured. Under Martin V, 
some of its marbles and statues 
were broken and used as mortar. 
Excavations among the ruins have, 
however, at all times produced 
classic monuments, now the prin- 
cipal ornament of the museums and 
galleries of Rome. The villa was 
about seven miles in circumference. 
Its chief remains are 

The Greek Theatre, which is the 
best preserved of the three that ex- 
isted here; we may still trace a 
part of the scena, the corridors, and 
the place of the steps. 

Annexed to the theatre on the 



^30 



CENTRAL ITALY. — ROME. ENVIRONS. 



west are remains of a large square 
court which was surrounded with 
porticos. 

Near the modern house, built of 
ancient substructions, is a passage, 
on the roof of which are stuccoes 
and paintings of exquisite taste. 

Pcecile. — Pausanias informs us 
that the Paecile of Athens was a 
portico decorated with paintings 
relative to Athenian exploits. The 
portico of the villa was an oblong 
parallellogram, in the centre of 
which was a large court. A wall, 
stiU entire, which was between a 
double row of pilasters, was pro- 
bably painted like the buildings at 
Athens. 

To the south of this wall is what 
is called the Temple of the Stoics, 
said to have been Imed with por- 
phyry, and further on is a round 
edifice with a mosaic pavement, 
representing sea monsters ; this 
place was used for exercises in 
swimming. 

To the left are the ruins of the 
library. 

The imperial palace, situated on 
an elevation, is composed of two 
stories. On the ground floor are 
several remains of paintings, on the 
upper story is a large quadrangular 
portico communicating with the 
palace. 

A number of rooms called the 
cento camerelle served formerly 
as barracks for the pretorian 
guards. On the exterior were gal- 
leries resting on pilasters or co- 
lumns; the communication with 
each room was by means of the 
gallery, as in the convents of the 
present day. 

Cannpe. — This building, so called 
from the city of Canope in Egypt, 
contained a temple of Serapis; 
several rooms and a painted gallery 
are still visible. 

On the right are remains of the 
academy and of a theatre. The 
four subterraneous corridors, form- 
ing a rectangle, were a part of the 



infernal regions. In the vicinity 
were the Elysian fields, the valley 
of Tempe, and the Peneus. 

TivoU. — This town, the founda- 
tion of which is attributed to Tibur, 
Corax, and Catillus of Argos, was 
built 462 years before Eome, after 
the expulsion of the Siculi from the 
territories which they then occupied. 
It was called Tibur from the name 
of the Argean chief; was allied with, 
though sometimes opposed to, the 
Eomans in the early times of the 
republic ; subsequently under the 
Romans it was a municipal town. 

Temple of Vesta. — This ancient 
edifice, of a fine style of architecture, 
is of a circular form, twelve and a 
half feet in diameter ; its columns are 
eighteen feet in height without the 
capital, which is ornamented with 
leaves of the acanthus. It had 
originally eighteen columns of the 
Corinthian order in travertine, ten 
of which remain. Its situation on 
the top of a rock, on the border of 
an extensive valley, is highly pic- 
turesque. 

Adjoining it is the temple of the 
Tiburtine sibyl, built of travertine, 
with four Ionic colunms in front. 
It is now the church of St Giorgio. 

Opposite these temples is the new 
emissary perforated in the Monte 
CatiUo, 294 metres long and twenty- 
five broad at its mouth ; the waters 
pass through this channel and on 
the brink of the valley form a beau- 
tiful cascade. 

In the picturesque grotto of the 
Sirens the waters disappear for a 
time in a subterranean channel. 

The grotto of Neptune, since the 
deviation of the course of the Anio, 
no longer receives any supply of 
water. 

Cascatelle. — The streams of the 
Anio are used in the iron, copper, 
and other works which are carried 
on at Tivoli, and precipitate them- 
selves from a height of 100 feet into 
the valley below, winding over 
rocks bounded with trees and mea- 



ROMAN STATES. — ROME. ENVIRONS. 



731 



clows that produce a most pictur- 
esque effect. 

Opposite, and bordering the path 
leading to the valley, are the villa 
of Catullus, the church of St Anto- 
nio, built on the ruins of a villa 
said to have belonged to Horace, 
and, half a mile further on, the 
chapel of Quintiliolo, dedicated to 
the Virgin. It stands on the re- 
mains of the villa of Quintihus 
Varus, in which were formerly 
found statues, columns, and a 
variety of mosaics. 

Crossing the Aquoria, a rivulet 
at the bottom of the valley, over 
an ancient bridge in good preser- 
vation, and the Anio over a wooden 
bridge, the return to Tivoh is by 
the ancient Via Tiburtina. 

Villa of Meccp-nas. — Among the 
ruins it is easy to distinguish a 
large square court, which was sur- 
rounded with half columns of the 
Doric order, and arcades commu- 
nicating with a portico, and a double 
row of chambers looking over the 
valley. These are built over a 
large subterraneous hall, called the 
stable, but supposed to have been a 
reservoir. A rapid torrent passes 
through a canal, and in its fall 
from the mountain contributes to 
form the cascades. Erom the ter- 
race the view embraces Kome and 
the Campagna. 

In a neighbouring vineyard is an 
edifice called the Tempio della 
Tosse, adapted as a church in the 
middle ages. It appears to advan- 
tage in the midst of trees and vine- 
yards. 

Near the Eoman gate is the villa 
D'Este, built by a cardinal of the 
D'Este family in 1549, formerly one 
of the most splendid villas of Italy. 
It contains frescoes by Zuccari, 
Muziano, and other artists of those 
days, allusive to the history of 
Tivoli. 

At a distance of ten miles on the 
Valerian way is Vicovaro, or Varia, 
the ruins of which consist of remains 



of an ancient bridge, over which 
passed the Aqua Claudia, and of 
large travertine blocks forming the 
walls of the city. Eive miles fur- 
ther on is Licenza, the ancient 
Digentia, near which was the Sabine 
farm of Horace, celebrated in his 
verses. 

Twelve miles from Tivoli, and 
twenty from Rome, is 

Palestrina, or Prceneste, a city 
founded, according to Virgil, by 
Cseculus, son of Vulcan ; according 
to others, by Prsenestus, son of King 
Latin us, prior to the Trojan war. 
Its elevated situation and good air 
rendered it a point of attraction to 
the ancient Romans. It was cele- 
brated also for its temple of Eor- 
tmie, restored and enlarged by L. 
Sylla, which occupied the whole 
site of the present town. 

Palestrina was destroyed in the 
fifteenth century, but was rebuilt 
on the ruins of this temple, when a 
mosaic pavement was discovered, 
which is now in the Barberini 
palace at Palestrina. 

This celebrated work represents 
sundry animals and plants, a tent 
with soldiers, Egyptian figures 
playing on musical instruments, 
others occupied with the labours of 
agriculture. Of several interpreta- 
tions given of this work the most 
probable is that the subject alludes 
to the festivals established in Egypt 
under the Greek kings, at the 
period of the inundation of the 
Nile. 

Near La Colonna, eight miles 
from this town, is a lake, falsely 
said to be the RegiQus, where the 
battle took place between the Latins 
and Romans, which decided the fate 
of Tarquin. 

Some miles distant, in the farm 
called Pantano, is the lake of Cas- 
tiglione, formerly Gabinus, near the 
ancient city of Gabii, discovered in 
1792. The only remains are the 
cella of the temple of Juno, and 
square blocks of the local volcanic 



732 



CENTEAL ITALY. ROME. ENVIRONS. 



stone, which formed the walls of 
the citadel. 

Fiascati owes its origin to the 
destruction of Tusculum by the 
Eomans in 1191 ; the modern town 
contains nothing remarkable, but 
the numerous villas in its environs 
and the excursion to the ruins of 
Tusculum are highly interesting. 

The most splendid of these viUas 
are the Aldobrandini and Mondra- 
gone, belonging to the Borghesi ; 
the KufineUa, to the queen of Sar- 
dinia ; the Conti and Falconieri. 
Tusculum, said to have been found- 
ed by Telegonus, a son of Ulysses 
and Circe, was a favourite residence 
of the Romans in the latter times 
of the republic. In an elevated 
position are the remains of a the- 
atre, baths, an aqueduct, and walls ; 
several statues, busts, and other 
works of art found in the excava- 
tions, attest its ancient splendour. 

Grotta Eerrata is a small village 
with a church, in which Domeni- 
chino has represented in fresco 
several acts of St Bartholomew and 
St Mlus, who retired to this spot 
about the year 1,000, The painting 
over the altar is by Annibale 
Caracci. 

Two miles from this village is 
Marino, formerly Castro Mcenium, 
an ancient city of Latium, men- 
tioned by Dionysius of Halicarnas- 
sus and Pliny. The church of St 
Barnabas possesses a painting of 
the martyrdom of St Bartholomew, 
in the first manner of Guercino ; 
that of the Holy Trinity one by 
Guido. The Albano gate leads to 
the Ferentine valley, so called from 
the goddess of that name, where 
the people of Latium held their 
national assemblies before their 
subjugation by the Romans. 

Cas:el Gandolfo is agreeably situ- 
ated on the lake of that name, 
which, in very remote times, was 
the crater of a volcano ; its circuit 
is about six miles, its depth 480 
feet. On the occasion of an extra- 



ordinary swell of the waters, 394 
years before the Christian era, the 
Romans, then occupied with the 
siege of Veii, sent deputies to Del- 
phi to consult the oracle of the 
Pythian Apollo, who answered that 
Veii could not be taken unless the 
waters of this lake were reduced to 
their level. Having decided on 
perforating the mountain, the work 
was carried on with such activity 
that within a year they completed 
the canal, which is a mile long, 
three and a half feet wide, and six 
high ; it is chiselled out of the 
rock, and has never required any 
repair. 

Albano. — Alba Lunga is said to 
have been built about 400 years 
before Rome, by Ascanius, the son 
of ^neas, between the mountain 
and the lake, in the direction of the 
present Palazzola ; it was destroyed 
by Tullius Hostilius. Durmg the 
second Punic war a camp, protect- 
ing the Appian way, was estab- 
lished on the site of Albano, which 
became a city at the decline of the 
empire. 

On the left of the Via Appia, 
before entering the gate, is a large 
tomb, stripped of its ornaments, 
containing a room eleven feet long 
and seven wide ; it is commonly 
called the tomb of Ascanius, but, 
being situated on the grounds that 
formed the villa of Pompey, it is 
more probable that it was raised 
by that general to receive the ashes 
of Julia his wife, the daughter of* 
Csesar. According to Plutarch it 
was also the tomb of Pompey. 

Near the church of the Madonna 
della Stella is another large tomb, 
raised on a square base fifty-five 
feet in circumference ; in the centre 
was a pedestal serving as the base 
of a statue, and at each angle a 
round pyramid. It was imagined 
that this tomb had been raised to 
the Horatii and Curiatii ; but it is 
related by Livy that they were 
buried on the spot where they fell, 



ROMAN STATES. - ROME. ENVIRONS. 



733 



between the Latin and Appian 
ways, at a distance of about five 
miles from Kome. The architecture 
of this monument is of a far more 
remote period ; it was probably 
raised to Aruns, the son of Por- 
senna, who was killed near this 
spot when attacking Aricia in the 
year 247 of Eome, or 606 before the 
Christian era. 

A mile from Albano is the village 
of Aricia, preserving the name of 
the city, built in the plain by Ar- 
chilochus 1,400 years before our 
era. Some of its ruins may be seen 
in a vineyard called Orto di Mezzo, 
on the Via Appia ; they consist of 
the cella of the temple of Diana, of 
walls formed of irregular blocks, of 
the emissary communicating with 
the citadel, and remains of baths. 

Veil. — Dionysius Halicarnassus 
observes, in the second book of his 
Roman Antiquities, " The third 
war which he (Komulus) sustained 
was against a city, then one of the 
most powerful of the Etruscan 
nation, called Veil, distant from 
Rome about 100 stadii ; it is situ- 
ated on a steep rock, and is of 
about the same size as Athens." 
One hundred stadii are twelve and 
a half miles. In another passage 
the same author adds that this was 
one of the Etruscan cities the near- 
est to Rome ; that it was on the 
Via Cassia or Claudia is proved by 
the Pentingerian chart, which thus 
disposes the stations on this road : 
Roma ad Pontem, III, ad Sextum, III, 
Vejos, VI; a distance corresponding 
exactly with that of Dionysius. 

At a mile to the east of La Storta, 
over a hiU, separated from the plain 
by two rivulets, which united form 
the Cremera, was situated Veii, as 
was proved b}' the excavations 
made in 1810, when a tomb and 
several fragments of statues were 
found. The citadel and one of the 
wings of the town occu^Died the 
Isola Farnese, a fortress in the 
middle ages, now a farm. The 



softness of the rock explains the 
work of the mine which decided the 
fate of the place after its ten years' 
siege. 

The isola presents the appearance 
of a deserted village with a popida- 
tJon of about forty souls. At the 
gate called the Portonaccio are 
various fragments of sculpture. The 
church of St Pancrazio, divided into 
three naves, is of the fifteenth cen- 
tury. Many square stones found 
in the castle probably belonged to 
the walls of the ancient citadel. 

A path, which from the frag- 
ments of its pavement appears to 
be antique, leads on the right to 
the ancient town. On the left are 
steep rocks ; on the right a deep 
precii)ice, formed by the rivulet 
called the Eos so dell' Isola, which 
about half a mile further on forms 
a cataract of about fifty feet in a 
most picturesque situation. Be* 
yond this cataract an ancient road 
of the Etruscan Veii, six feet broad, 
leads to an extensive plain, where 
fragments of worked marble and of 
bricks indicate the spot once in- 
habited, enclosed in the Etruscan 
city The Roman Veii was situated 
near the forest where the late dis- 
coveries were made ; this spot pre- 
sents numerous fragments of vases, 
painted with varnish on a black and 
red ground, and of a very fine clay, 
probably the work of the primitive 
Veians. Of the buHdings found in 
the last excavations one deserves 
observation — an ancient Roman 
columbarium, called by the peasants 
the cemeterio, composed of three 
rooms, one of which only is open. 
It contains several tombs and 
funenary inscriptions. Near the 
Columbarium were discovered the 
statue of Tiberius, now in the 
Vatican ; that of Germ aniens, nine 
palms high ; many busts, fragments 
of architecture ; twenty -four co- 
lumns belonging to the same edifice, 
probably a basihc, near which was 
the forum, as Vitruvius informs us 



734 



CENTRAL ITALY. — ROME. TIME. CLIMATE. 



that such was their relative position 
In the Italian cities. It has been 
ascertained from inscriptions that 
at Veii there w^as a temple of Mars, 
and from the excavations that 
Castor and Pollux, Piety, and the 
Genius of the city, were honoured 
at Veii. 

In its primitive state, and before 
its capture by CaraiUus, the city 
must have extended to Ponte Sodo, 
and the forest now covers its ruins. 
In proceeding to this bridge, and 
before arriving at the Cremera, the 
remains of a road which at intervals 
is intercepted by square masses of 
tuifo, indicate the ancient walls of 
the city, and lead to the Cremera, 
called the Fosso di PormeUo and 
Fosso del Valca, which unites with 
the Tiber. Beyond the Cremera is 
the Ponte Sodo, so named from its ' 
solidity, being cut out of the rock — 
a work of the Etruscan Veians. 

Without returning to the I sola, 
it is easy to reach the Via Cassia at 
the Osteria del Fosso, after having 
crossed the Cremera by following 
a direction to the west, near the 
spot where the late excavations 
have been made. On the right of 
the road many Etruscan tombs are 
seen in the rock, in which small 
vases painted on a dark ground are 
continually discovered. 

Tirtie. — The Italian sundial, prin- 
cipally in use at Rome, is regulated 
according to the setting of the sun, 
which in aU seasons takes place at 
twenty-three hours and a half. On 
the 1st of January the twenty -fourth 
Italian hour thus answers to our 
half-past five ; the French noon to 
their seventeen hours and three 
quarters, and midnight to their 
seven hours and a half, the sun 
setting forty-five minutes later at 
Rome than in Paris. The twenty- 
fourth hour is marked by the Ave 
Maria, which is said half an hour 
after sunset. 

Climate. — The Roman winter is, 
after that of Pisa and Naples, the 



mildest in Italy. Rome is some- 
times preferred to Naples for cer- 
tain (Hseases. The thermometer 
rarely descends below 4^^ or 5°, 
and even this takes place but once 
in four or five years. The summit, 
however, is rather suspicious, and 
with the scirocco the atmosphere is 
quite overpowering. The danger 
of the malaria appears to have 
been much exaggerated. Besides 
the learned observations of the 
celebrated Lancisi, physician to 
Popes Innocent XI, Innocent XII, 
and Clement XI, the illustrious 
Brocchi could not recognise any 
vicious principle in the air of Rome, 
even when analyzed in 1818 (noted 
for the multitude of intermitting 
fevers) in one of the worst parts of 
the city — viz., in the A^alley adjoin- 
ing the basilisk St Laurent, extra 
muros. The changeableness of the 
climate is perhaps the greatest part 
of its danger, but this is easily 
counteracted by wearing flannel, 
which, as we are informed, was 
customary amongst the ancient 
Romans. It has also been remarked 
that the air appears salutary to 
aged persons — a fact proved by 
the long life of a great number of 
both foreigners and natives who 
have inhabited this city. The pru- 
dent traveller runs no risk in going 
to Rome at all seasons ; he may 
establish himself there, and repose 
for the remainder of his life in this 
noble retreat without fear. 

Rome is still the first city of the 
world for the quality and quantity 
of its water. The best, I'acqua 
vergine, shown to the soldiers of 
Agrippa by a young girl, yet flows 
plentifully from the fountain Trevi, 
and has kept its sweet name. The 
numerous springs of salubrious 
bright hmpid water at Rome is one 
of its wonders, and yet how inferior 
is modern Rome on that point to 
antique Rome ! " Dov' e oggi 
I'Aniene vecchio," cries the learned 
Claudio Tolomei of Sienne, in his 



ROaiAN STATES. — ROME. PEOVISIOKS. 



735 



letter of the 26th of July, 1543, to 
Giovanni Battista Grimaldi ; " Dov' 
e I'acqua Appia ? dov' e la Claudia ? 
dov' e la Tiepola, 1' Augusta e le 
altre ?" 

The water of the Tiber had, for 
a long time, the reputation of being 
sweet and salubrious. Many per- 
sons formerly got a living by driving 
asses about the city laden with its 
water for sale. Thefather of Rienzi 
was one of these water-sellers. Paul 
III, in his longer journeys, always 
took some with him. When Cle- 
ment VII went to Marseilles to 
marry his niece, Catherine de Me- 
dicis, to the Dauphin's brother, 
afterwards Henry II, his physician 
required him to carry some of this 
water with him, which he accord- 
ingly did. Gregory XIII, who lived 
eighty-four years, constantly drank 
this water, which has now become 
so dirty and so decried. Ariosto 
sung its praise, but it was then cus- 
tomary to leave it some days to 
settle. 

It appears from the analysis made 
in July 1830, of two masses of water 
of 100 lbs. each — one taken above 
Ponte Molle, before it passes through 
the city, and the other below the 
port Eipa-Grande — that this water 
is not only potable, but is even of a 
superior quality to that of the Seine 
or Thames. The mineral virtues 
and mild temperature of the river 
contented the Romans of the Re- 
public, and their only summer baths 
were on its borders. The tempera- 
ture rises from 18" to 24P, and 
scarcely differs from that of the air 
but by 2^ to 6*^. 

The water of the Tiber is now 
successfully recommended for in- 
flammations and weaknesses of the 
eyes. 

Teetotallers should ask the waiter 
of the cafe for some aqua di cannella 
(a small waterpipe or cinnamon) 
which is nothing better than water 
turned off from the waterpipe placed 
in nearly every house ; it is conse- 



quently a little fresher, but is not 
cinnamon water, as some foolish 
wits endeavour to make green tra- 
vellers believe it to be. 

The lasagne soup is excellent. 
The beef is perfect ; that of Pe- 
rugia (manzo perugino)is preferred. 
The meat of the mongana (a suck- 
ling calf) only cedes to the cele- 
brated veal of Sorrento. There is 
nothing more delicate than the fried 
brains, lambs' sweet-breads, and kid- 
neys, of Rome. 

The turkeys of Rome are deemed 
the fattest of Italy. The geese and 
fowls, in spite of their sacred or pa- 
triotic associations, are now but 
passable. These last come from La 
Marca, and a seven days' journey 
in coops makes them almost unfit 
for the table. It is not the same 
with the pigeons, which soon re- 
cover and become excellent ; they 
cede, however, to the savour of the 
native pigeons, the best in Italy, 
which are sold for about double the 
price in the Strada Colombella 
(from Colombo), behind the small 
dirty market held over the ruins of 
the marvelous Pantheon. These 
delicate, white, rosy pigeons also 
make an exquisite soup, stomachic 
and salutary to convalescents. The 
superiority of the race may be 
traced back to antiquity. But the 
barbarous sensuality of the Romans 
had recourse to an expedient to fat- 
ten them that is quite neglected 
by the poulterers of the Colombella, 
who are a set of indolent folks not 
encouraged by the frugality of the 
present Italians. " When the young 
pigeons begin to get fledged," says 
Varron, " their legs are broken, and 
they are replaced in the nest ; in 
the meanwhile their mothers are 
plentifully supplied with food. 
These poor things eat and make 
their little ones eat the whole day 
long, and in this manner they fatten 
much quicker and become much 
whiter than the others," Instead 
of the fifteen or twenty bajocchi 



736 



CENTRAL ITALY — EOME. PROVISIONS. 



given for a pair of modern pigeons, 
these of the ancients had a most ex- 
traordinary value, and gave an enor- 
mous profit. They were commonly 
sold for 200 sesterces (56 fr.) a piece. 
The best pigeons rose to 1,000 ses- 
terces (280 fr.). L. Axius, a Roman 
cavalier, is said to have refused 
400 deniers (448 fr. ) for a pair of 
pigeons of this kind. Varron adds, 
that at Rome there were some people 
who possessed more than 100,000 
sesterces (28,000 fr.) in pigeons, and 
who drew thence a gam of 50 per 
cent. 

The vicinity furnishes a prodi- 
gious quantity of large and small 
birds, such as quails, larks (lodole), 
beccaflchi, snipes, partridges,notably 
the grey (starne), and thrushes 
(tordi). These last, somewhat lean 
and cheap, dilFer from the thrushes 
mentioned by Varron, which were 
fattened in cages and sold for 
3 deniers a piece (3 fr. 36 c). Eive 
thousand of these birds, bred at the 
villa of the maternal aunt of Merula, 
in Sabina, twenty-four miles from 
Rome, brought her an annual re- 
venue of 60,000 sesterces (16,800 fr.). 
The quails were fattened in the same 
way with balls made of figs and 
flour of epeautre (a species of wheat) ; 
they were equally expensive, al- 
though the Roman poulterers had 
volteri even in the town. The loins 
of pork (lombetto) of Rome are 
noted, also its hams, prepared 
in the villages of the Appen- 
nines. The reputation of the Roman 
pork is of long standing. A diploma 
inserted in the ' Storia Diplomatica 
de' Senator!,' by Francesco Antonio 
Vitali, shews that, independently of 
the stores of Greek wine, sugar, 
eels, fish, beans, peas, &c., twelve 
hundred pigs were provided for the 
kitchen (cucina) of Charles d'Anjou 
on his arrival at Rome, where he 
was most hospitably entertained by 
Pope Clement IV, at that time hold- 
ing a fief in Provence. This list 
would lead one to believe that the 



cook of the French Prince was al- 
ready prodigal of these hot spicy 
sauces, now too mvich in use at the 
tables of our politicians, aristocrats, 
and bankers. Fish are excellent, 
and plentiful. The fishery extends 
along the coast from Civita Vecchia 
to Terracina. Nimble muleteers 
scent pretty correctly on what point 
of the coast the wind is likely to 
blow, and hasten thither ; they load 
the fish as it is taken from the boats, 
and drive it off to Rome during the 
night. 

The principal market is held on 
the ruins of the interesting Portico 
of Octavia. Men are employed to 
sell the fish, so that the Parisian 
monster, la poissarde, does not exist 
at Rome. The Roman housekeep- 
ers say that fish is good in the 
months where the letter r is pro- 
nounced. The sturgeon, the first 
of the pesce nobile, if partaken of 
too freely, sometimes produces dis- 
orders of the stomach. The small 
roach (triglia) makes an excellent 
fry, but the large one is better 
grilled. The spigola was highly 
considered by the Greeks and 
Romans; the small young ones 
taken in the Tiber M^ere particu- 
larly esteemed, as, according to the 
epicures of the times, these were 
much tendered from their efibrts to 
ascend the river. The modern fish 
is not less considered, and competes 
with the sturgeon ; it is a large fish, 
and is taken in the Mediterranean. 
The white delicate ombrine has " 
honoured the best tables of anti- 
quity, and of the renaissance. The 
splendid papagello, delicate, white, 
and savoury, is the delight of the 
rich, although it has not the merit 
of being rare. The mullets (cefalo), 
less esteemed, less delicate, and 
heavier, are frequently more than 
two feet long; the prince of Musig- 
nano, now Canino, states, that 
sometimes this fish weighs 17lbs. 

The actual prices for the prin- 
cipal provisions are given elsewhere. 



-ROMAS STATES. — ROME. PROVISIONS. CAPES. 



737 



This detail may prove of some uti- 
lity, as there is no city in Europe 
that leaves a greater desire to re- 
turn to than Rome, and it may not 
be indifferent to know its expences. 
Without doubt, it is very agreeable 
to meditate in the midst of its 
splendid ruins, but it is also neces- 
sary to think of dinner. 

If, in spite of the strong and noble 
nature of the Roman race, it is 
no more given the soil (like many 
others) to produce heroes, yet this 
land is still the magna parens fru- 
gum. Notwithstanding appearan- 
ces and poetic prejudices, the envi- 
rons of Rome, and the hills that 
surround it, are fertile and well 
cultivated. 

Savoury fruits and excellent vege- 
tables grow there in abundance. 
The asparagus of Tivoli, the indi- 
gestible fennel (finocchio), the bro- 
coli, best prepared alia strascinata, 
the grapes of Tivoli (pizzutello) 
the muscadine grapes, the Avater 
mellon (cocomero), the green figs 
(fichi gintili), the melons of Rieti. 

Roman mushrooms have been 
always esteemed. They appear to 
have been the only thought of two 
of its most insignificant masters, 
whether ancient or modern, viz. : 
the Emperor Claudius and Pope 
Clement VII. The last was so 
passionately fond of them, that 
afraid of not being sufficiently sup- 
plied, he forbade their use through- 
out the Roman states. The 
savoury meadow mushroom (prata- 
iuolo) stni merits the praises be- 
stowed on it by the professeur gas- 
tronome Catius. 

It is dried and served in ragouts 
when there are no others. In the 
market of the Piazza Navone 
Apicius would still find the oronge, 
whose mode of preparation he de- 
tails with so much complacency. 
The finest of all is the ovolo, having 
the form and whiteness of an egg, 
whence it derives its name, It is 
served fried in oil, or seasoned with 



oil and garlic, or particularly with 
wild mint (mentuccia), considered 
at Rome as an antidote, and even 
as a necessary ingredient to every 
dish of mushrooms. 

Excellent cheese and milk; the 
most noted are : curded milk (ricotta 
e giuncata); delicious baffalo eggs 
(ova di bufale); ewes' milk cheese 
( pecorino ), particularly that of 
Viterbo; the same cheese with saf- 
fron, called formaggio fiore, from 
being curded with the powder of a 
mountain flower; cows' milk cheese 
(provatura bianca) ; buffalo milk 
cheese (provatura marzolina), so 
named from being the last made in 
the month of March. 

Batter was nearly unknown in 
Rome forty years since. There is 
now, however, a large dairy near 
the tomb to Cecilia Metella, where 
it may be had very good. This 
progress is owing to the arrival at 
Rome of numerous English travel* 
lers. As the Roman dairies, how- 
ever, do not provide sufficient for 
the consumption during the winter, 
a certain quantity is received from 
Lombardy. The price is then 30 
bajocchi per poimd,but in the sum- 
mer it is only 14. 

Maccaroni pastry (pasticcio di 
macaroni), made of cream truffles, 
mushrooms, cockscombs, small 
livers, &c., is much sought after, 
and is purely Roman. 

Each coffee house has its charac- 
ter, or, as we say of a paper, its 
colour. 

The Cafe Greco, the only one 
where smoking is permitted, is the 
rendezvous of French, Italian, and 
German artists. New works and 
various reputations are there can- 
vassed, both loudly and frankly. 

The Cafe Monte-Citorio, called de' 
Babbioni (old fools, blockheads), is 
frequented by professors and savans, 
who choose a president amongst 
themselves surnamed crocchio. I 
have there met some gentlemen of 
rare merit. 



738 



CENTRAL ITALY. — ROME. HORSES. HUNTING. 



The cafe of the fountain Trevi 
was the resort of the Abbe Fea; it 
is the cafe of the antiquarians, and 
is not the least known ; even the 
peasants carry there all the medals, 
pieces of brick, &c. , that they turn 
up in their fields. 

In these different re-unions the 
chronicle of the day occupies a large 
place; the modern Eomans are not 
less inquisitive or less given to 
tale-bearing than those of the times 
of Horace or Juvenal. 

The most fashionable is the Cafe 
Nazarri, Piazza di Spagna. At 
the cafes one should call for a 
poncio spongato, the most agreeable 
and the most tonic of sherbets, only 
costing eight bajocchi. The spuma 
di latte, a kind of iced-whipped 
cream, is excellent ; but must be 
ordered beforehand. The best of 
all is the mattonella al butirro, 
small, compact, and so hard that 
one may carry it away in one's 
pocket, whence its name brick of 
butter. 

The taste, the necessity for ices, 
may be traced back to the ancient 
Romans. 

Horses. — The Roman horses are 
rather small, but they are spirited, 
full of nerve, lively, and make ex- 
cellent saddle horses. The breeds 
of Chigi and Braschi are the most 
noted ; the last-mentioned breed, 
reared in the Pontine Marshes, are 
sometimes subject to tumours in 
the legs, and soft hoofs. Prince 
Borghese is at present endeavouring 
to regain the reputation his house 
once had for its horses ; Duke Alex- 
ander Torlonia also seeks to create 
a similar reputation. The bronze- 
coloured horses of the Borghese 
family have frequently served as 
models for artists ; Guido harnessed 
them to the car of his celebrated 
admirable Aurora in the Palazzo 
Rospigliosi. An untrained Roman 
horse may be bought at the annual 
May fair for about sixty crowns 
(about 30 fr.). The ordinar 



breed, in spite of its appearance, is 
not of bad mettle, and is tolerably 
active. M. de Tournon reports 
that the five hundred horses which 
he furnished the army with, in 
1813, although only three years old, 
and sent away immediately after 
gelding, did good service during the 
campaign that terminated by the 
battle of Leipsic. The large black 
horses so much in use amongst the 
cardinals are sold very dear ; they 
are principally drawn from the 
Polesina di Rovigo. 

Hunting. — Rome may be recom- 
mended also to sportsmen, as the 
government does not disdain legis- 
lating for their pleasures. The 
port d'armes, only costing three 
pauls (less than two frs.) is given 
nearly to everybody ; strangers only 
need show their passports. Leon 
Xn, who, in his time had been pas- 
sionately fond of hunting, but who 
abandoned it when seated on the 
pontifical throne (unlike his cele- 
brated predecessor Leon X), ordered 
that the gates of Rome should be 
opened at all hours to the sportsmen 
who pronounced the word caccia- 
tori. 

The principal sport is furnished 
by birds of passage : namely, in the 
winter, woodcocks, grey partridges 
(starne), lapwings (pavoncelle), 
and an enormous quantity of aqua- 
tic birds ; in the month of May the 
quails begin to arrive from Northern 
Africa, and afford good sport on the 
sea-coast, from Civita Vecchia to 
Terracina ; the summer offers only 
a few small quails (quagliardi), 
found in the cornfields after the 
harvest, and before the burning of 
the straw; but in autumn there is 
again a quantity of quails returning 
to Africa, thrushes (tordi), snipes, 
and particularly larks (lodole). 

These last procure amusement 
for everybody. During the Octo- 
ber vacations, judges, lawyers, and 
even prelates, booted and spurred, 
grotesquely perk themselves on 



ROMAN STATES. — ROME. CEREMONIES. 



739 



small asses, and give themselves up 
to this amusement with the ardour 
of scliool boys. 

The whistler (fischiatore) is al- 
ways a Florentine, who charges 
pretty highly for his superiority 
over the other Italian whistlers ; he 
contrives, however, to get as many 
as two or three hundred larks in 
the nets, and apparently without 
much difficulty, 

The wild boar is principally 
hunted during the winter in the 
forests of Nettuno and of Cisterna. 
These wild spots, however, are not 
very safe, as although brigandage 
en grand is no more to be met with 
in Italy, yet, some individuals still 
practise it in detail One of these 
small troops lately plundered the 
Infant Don Miguel, not less pas- 
sionate in the chase than on the 
throne, of his cloak and splendid 
fowling-piece. 

A most excellent and agreeable 
companion for this hunting-party is 
Sig. Vallati, the best sportsman and 
the best wild-boar painter in Italy. 
He organises an immense hunt 
once a year, principally for strangers, 
who return completely enchanted 
with the whole affair. 

The lanciatora is a sport carried 
on in dark cloudy nights. The 
sportsman fastens a lantern on his 
breast, and holds a large circular 
net extended on a light hoop, just 
above his shoulders. He walks 
stealthily along the fields, and ra- 
pidly throws the net on all birds 
that he gets sight of; a small bell 
is fastened to one of his legs, and 
serves, as it is said, to conceal his 
approach from the birds, that take 
him for one of the cows or goats 
that cover the fields. This neck- 
breaking amusement is sometimes 
interdicted ; indeed it is so very 
destructive that it should be prohi- 
bited altogether The most spirited 
and adventurous amusement of the 
Koman sportsman is that which is 
undertaken in winter, in a boat on 



the Teverone from the Ponte Lu- 
cano to the Tiber. 

Wild fowl shooting and fishing 
are the avowed amusements of this 
sporting excursion of sixteen hours ; 
but its romantic sites, even more 
picturesque than the Ponte Lucano, 
the model of one of Gaspar Poussin's 
charming landscapes, have also their 
attractions. The axe is sometimes 
necessary to fray a road for the 
boat through piles of broken 
branches of trees, or of whole trees 
that have been swept away by the 
violence of the torrent. 

INDICATION OF THE ECCLESIASTICAL 
CEREMONIES WHICH TAKE PLACE 
IN THE PAPAL CHAPEL, AND IN 
THE PRINCIPAL CHURCHES. 

January. — 1st. At ten, high mass 
in the Sistine chapel, in presence of 
the pope, the cardinals, and the pon- 
tifical court. 

5th. Vespers in the same chapel, 
at three p.m. 

6th. Epiphany. At ten, high mass 
as above ; at four, procession in the 
church of Aracoeli. 

17th. Festival of St Antonio, at 
his church near St Maria Maggiore. 
Blessing of horses and other animals. 

18th. Chair of St Peter; at ten, 
pontifical chapel at St Peter^s. 

February — 2nd. Purification of the 
Madonna. At ten, pontifical chapel 
in the Apostolic palace, in which 
the candles are blessed and distri- 
buted. — During Lent, pontifical 
chapel at the Vatican every Sun- 
day ; on Ash Wednesday the blessing 
and distribution of ashes. 

March.— Ilh. Festival of St Tho- 
mas Aquinas at the Minerva; the 
holy college of cardinals is present 
at high mass. 

■ 9th. Festival of St Francesca 
Roman a, at her church near the 
Arch of Titus. 

2Dth. Annunciation of the Vir- 
gin. The pope and cardinals are 
present at high mass at the Miner- 



740 



CENTRAL ITALY. — ROME. CEREMONIES. 



va; procession of young girls who 
have received a dowry from the 
fraternity of the Annunciation 

Hohj Week.—22lm Sunday. The 
pope blesses and distributes palms 
in the Sixtine chapel; high mass. 
The ceremony commences at half- 
past nine, 

Wednesday. About five, Miserere 
in the Sixtine chapel. 

Thursday. High mass in the same 
chapel; the pope deposes the holy 
Sacrament in the Paolina chapel ; 
from the balcony of the Vatican he 
reads the bull in Ccena Domini, gives 
his blessing to the people ; washes 
the feet and serves at table twelve 
poor priests of diflerent nations. At 
five o'clock Miserere in the Sixtine 
chapel. After sunset the pontifical 
altar in St Peter's is washed. 

Friday. At half-past nine the 
ceremony takes place in the Sixtine 
chapel, in presence of the pope and 
cardinals. In the afternoon the 
ofiice and Miserere, as on the pre- 
ceding days. In many churches 
and oratories is celebrated the three 
hours' agony in commemoration of 
the three hours that Christ passed 
on the cross. 

Saturday. At the church of St 
John Lateran, baptism of Jews and 
Turks newly con verted ; holy orders 
granted to those who are destined 
to the ecclesiastical profession. 
Houses blessed. 

Easter. The pope himself cele- 
brates mass at St Peter's at ten 
o'clock ; at twelve he gives his 
blessing from the balcony of the 
fagade. 

Monday, Tuesday, and Sunday 
following, pontifical chapel in the 
Apostolic palace. 

April— 25th. Festival of St Mark 
the Evangelist, at his church, Pa- 
lazzo di Venezia. At eight o'clock 
a procession of all the clergy repairs 
from this church to St Peter's to 
implore the pardon of sins ; for this 
reason it is called Litanise majores. 

May.— 2nd. Festival of St Atha- 



nasius, Bishop of Alexandria and 
doctor of the church. High mass 
according to the service of the Greek 
church at St Athanasius via Ba- 
buino. 

26th. Festival of StFilippo Neri, 
the apostle of Rome. Pontifical 
chapel at the Chiesa Nuova; the 
pope and sacred college are present. 

On Ascension day the pope re- 
pairs to St John Lateran, and after 
mass gives his blessing to the 
people. 

At Pentecost, papal chapel at ten, 
at the apostolic palace or at St 
Maria Maggiore. In the afternoon 
females are permitted to visit the 
subterranean church of St Peter's 
at the Vatican. 

Corpus Domini, at eight o'clock 
commences the procession of the 
holy Sacrament, attended by the 
pope, the cardinals, and all the 
clergy at Eome. During this and 
the following days processions take 
place in different parts of the town ; 
those of St John Lateran the fol- 
lowing Sunday and Thursday, or of 
octave, are attended by the pope 
and cardinals. 

June. — 24th. Festival of St John 
Baptist. High mass at ten o'clock 
at St John Lateran, in presence of 
the pope and cardinals. 

28th. Eve of the festival of St 
Peter and St Paul. At six, ponti- 
fical vespers at St Peter's. The 
subterraneous church is opened to 
the piety of the faithful. 

July. — 14th Chapel of Cardinals* 
at the Santi Apostoli, in honour of 
St Bonaventure. 

31st. Grand festival at the Gesu 
in honour of St Ignatius. 

August. — 1st. Festival at StPietro 
in Vincoli. At the church on the 
Esquiline the chains of St Peter are 
exposed during eight days to public 
veneration. 

15th. Assumption of the Virgin, 
High pontifical mass at St Maria 
Major, followed by the blessing from 
the balcony. 



SOMAN STATES. — ROME. CEREMONIES. 



741 



September. — 8th. Nativity of the 
Virgin. High mass in presence of 
the pope and cardinals at St Maria 
del Popolo. 

November. -r-\&t. Pontifical mass 
at the Vatican at ten o'clock. At 
three, vespers for the deceased. 

2nd. This day, sacred in the Ca- 
tholic church to the memory of the 
deceased, the pope and cardinals 
are present at high mass in the 
Sixtine chapel. On the 3rd and 
5th, functions are celebrated at the 
palace for the deceased popes and 
cardinals. Passages from Scripture 
or from ecclesiastical history analo- 
gous to the subject are represented 
in wax in diflferent churches, parti- 
cularly at St Maria in Trastevere, 
at the hospital of Santo Spirito, the 
Consolazione, at the church of La 
Morte in via Giulia, and at St John 
Lateran 

4th. Festival of St Carlo Borro- 
meo ; the pope and cardinals repair 
to the church of St Carlo in the 
Corso, where high mass is cele- 
brated at ten o'clock. 

29th. Chapel at St Peter's, for the 
repose of the soul of Pius VTII. 

December.— The first Sunday of 
Advent, papal chapel at the Vatican 
at ten o'clock. After the service 
the pope carries the holy Sacra- 
ment in procession, and exposes it 
in the Pauline chapel, which is illu- 
minated with wax candles. 



Each Sunday of Advent, papal 
chapel at the Apostolic palace. 

8th. Conception of the Virgin. 
High mass in the papal chapel. At 
four o'clock procession from the 
church of Aracceli, which crosses a 
part of the forum. 

24th. Christmas eve. Vespers in 
the papal chapel. About eight in 
the evening midnight mass is cele- 
brated in presence of the pope and 
cardinals. 

25 th. At three in the morning 
the night mass commences at St 
Maria Maggiore, and the holy cra- 
dle is exposed aU day on the high 
altar. At ten, high mass, by the 
sovereign pontiff, either at this 
church or at St Peter's. 

Prom this day till the first Janu- 
ary the birth of our Saviour is re- 
presented in figures in different 
churches ; that of Aracceli is the 
most interesting. 

26th. Papal chapel at ten, in ho- 
nour of St Stephen. 

27 th. The same in honour of St 
John the Evangelist. 

29th. Festival of St Thomas, 
archbishop of Canterbury, at his 
church near the palazzo Farnese. 

31st. Grand vespers at the Vati- 
can, in the Sixtine chapel. At the 
church of the Gesu a solemn Te 
Deum is sung in presence of the 
holy college and magistrates of 
Kome. 



HAND-BOOK FOR ITALY, 



OR 



GUIDE-BOOK FOE TEAYELLEKS. 



PART VIII. SOUTHERN. 



EOUTE 119. 

ROME TO NAPLES BY TEREACINA. 

Distance, 20| postes: 152 English 
miles. 

Postes. 
From Rome to Torre di Mezzavia 1^ 

— Albano - - . . i 
(A third horse going.) 

— Genzano . - - - Of 
(A third horse from Velletri to 

Genzano.) 

— Velletri .... 

— Cisterna . . _ . 

— Torre de' Tre Ponti 

— Bocea di Fiume - - - 

— Mesa ----- 

— Ponte Maggiore - - - 

— Terracina - - - - 

— Fondi - - . - - 
4A third horse going and returning.) 

— Itri - - - _ - 

— Mola di Graeta - - - 

— Carigliano - - - - 
(A third horse each way.) 

— St Agata - . . . 

— Sparanisi - . . - 

— Capua ----- 

— Averse ----- 

— Naples ----- 

EOUTE 120. 

ROME TO NAPLES BY PIPERNO. 

Distance, 19^ postes: 140 English 
miles. 

Postes. 
From Rome to Torre di Mezzavia 1| 

— Marino _ - - - i 

— Fajola - _ - - 1 

— Velletri . - - - i 

— Sermoneta - - - _ i 





Postes. 


From Sermoneta to Casenuove 


- 1 


— Piperno - - - 


- o| 


— Maruti - - - 


- I 


~ Terracina - - - 


- 1 


— Tarracina to Naples 


- 10 



N.B. The same remarks with 
regard to the accommodations on 
the road, egually apply between 
Eome and Naples as between 
Florence and Eome. 

FROM ROME TO NAPLES BY 
TERRACINA. 

The old road to Naples was the 
celebrated Appian way, made by 
Appius Claudius the Blind, when 
he was censor, in the year of Eome 
442 ; it commenced at Eome by the 
Capene gate, which afterwards, 
the city being enlarged, was re- 
placed by the gate now called St 
Sebastian's ; it then passed through 
the Pontine marshes, and extended 
as far as Capua, from which place 
Trajan continued it to Brindes, a 
town of Apulia, in the kingdom ol 
Naples, where there was a magni- 
ficent harbour, and where persons 
usually embarked who were travel- 
ling to Greece. This way was 
formed with large blocks of stone, 
and ornamented with superb tombs ; 
it was so infinitely superior to the 



EOUTE 119. — ROME TO KAPLES BT TEESACINA. 



743 



other Eoman ways, that Cicero de- 
nominated it Regina Viarum, and 
Procopius Via Spectatu Dignis- 
sima. 

The modern road to ISTaples is 
not exactly the same as the Appian 
way, as on its egress from Eome by 
the gate of St John, it leaves the 
old road on the right, and passes 
to Albano. 

Gate of St John. — The traveller 
will leave Eome hy this gate, for- 
merly called Celimontana, because 
it is situated on Mount Caelius It 
is now called St John, a name 
which it derives from the church of 
that saint in the vicinity. At this 
gate commenced the ancient Cam- 
panian way, which led to the pro- 
vince of Campania, in the kingdom 
of Naples. It was likewise designated 
the Tusculan way, because it formed 
the road, as it does now, to the 
ancient Tusculum, a celebrated 
town of Latium, now called Fras- 
cati. 

This road was bordered by mag- 
nificent tombs, covered with mar- 
ble, but which are now stripped of 
all their ornaments. It may be 
observed, that this melancholy way 
of ornamenting the public roads 
was likewise distinguished by a 
degree of majesty and usefulness; 
for, amongst the ancients, the sight 
of the tombs did not discourage the 
living ; but the young men were 
supposed to be excited by a spirit 
of emulation, by the remembrance of 
the illustrious men Avho were there 
inhumed. On this road likewise 
are several vestiges of the aqueduct 
ofClaudian, as well as of that of the 
waters of Julia, Tepula, and Marcia ; 
they are situated across a delight- 
ful plain, and form very picturesque 
objects in the landscape. 

On the right of this road, about 
five miles from St John's Gate, is a 
large farm of Duke Tor Ionia, com- 
monly called Eoma Yecchia, where 
a great quantity of walls of ancient 
buildings and other antiquities 



may be seen. It is supposed to 
have been the ancient Pagus Lemo- 
nius, a market town, where the 
workmen, called Pagaui, resided. 
In the excavations lately made, nu- 
merous marbles, busts, sarcophagi, 
and statues of great merit, were 
discovered. 

Seven miles from St John's Gate is 

Tor di Mezza Via. — This is an 
isolated house, used as an inn. 

On the right of it are the remains 
of an aqueduct, which runs towards 
the west, and is built of brick. It 
conveys water to the baths of 
Caracalla, across the Appian way. 

From Tor di Mezza Via, the 
road passes to 

Albano. — This smaU and delight- 
ful town, situated near the lake, on 
the Appian way, stands on the 
ground formerly occupied by the 
ancient town of Alba Lunga, which 
was built by Ascanius, the son of 
^neas, between the lake and the 
mount, 400 years before the period 
when Rome was founded. It flou- 
rished for the space of 500 years, 
but was afterwards destroyed by 
Tullus Hostilius. 

Before the traveller reaches Al- 
bano, he may see on the left the 

Tomh of Ascanius. — This is an 
ancient tomb, divested of the orna- 
ments with which it was formerly 
decorated, and vulgarly called the 
tomb of Ascanius, although its 
real origin, and the period when it 
was erected, are totally unknown. 

Outside the other gate of Albano, 
on the road to Riccia, is the 

Tomb of the Curiatii. — This is a 
square mausoleum, fifty-five Pari- 
sian feet in circumference, which 
was formerly surmounted by five 
pyramids or cones, but only two of 
these now remain. It is almost 
universally thought to be the tomb 
of the Curiatii ; but several writers 
have, with more judgment, attri- 
buted it to Pompey the Great, 
whose country house was in the 
vicinity of this place. 



744 



SOUTHERN ITALY. — ^ROUTE 119. ROME TO NAPLES. 



Above the town may yet be seen 
the remains of an amphitheatre, 
and of a reservoir, supposed to 
have been those of Domitian. 

A mile from Albano is the small 
and pretty village of 

Castel Gandolfo, — The road to 
it, called La GaUeria, is a delight- 
ful promenade. The extraordinary 
beauty of the situation, and the 
salubrity of the air, have induced 
the sovereign pontiffs to erect 
there a magnificent chateau, or 
villa, to which a dehghtful garden 
is attached. The architecture is 
simple and antique, and here the 
pope usually resides during the 
autunm. Castel Gandolfo is situ- 
ated on the borders of the lake 
Castello, and commands some very 
extensive views of Rome and its 
environs. On entering Castel Gan- 
dolfo, the traveller may observe in 
the villa Barberini, the magnificent 
remains of the country seat of Do- 
mitian, from which there is an 
enchanting prospect. Near Castel 
Gandolfo, Milo, when going to his 
native place Lanuvium, killed Clau- 
dius, the tribune of the people, who 
was returning on horseback from 
Aricia. This event forms the sub- 
ject of Cicero's finest oration. 

Adjoining Castel Gandolfo is the 
lake formerly called 

Lake of Albano. — This lake is 
now called Lake of Castello; it 
was the crater of a volcano, and is 
five miles in circumference, and 
540 feet in depth. On the borders 
of the lake are two grottos, said to 
have been haUs ornamented with 
statues of nymphs, and intended 
as cool places of resort. The canal 
of this lake is one of the most 
extraordinary works of the ancient 
Eomans ; it is an outlet through 
which the waters of the lake cross 
the mountains, and discharge them- 
selves on the opposite side. It was 
constructed 393 years before the 
Christian era, on account of a large 
increase of water, which threatened 



Eome with an inundation at the 
time when the Romans laid siege 
to Veil. Rome sent deputies to 
Delphos to consult the Oracle of 
Apollo, which answered that the 
Romans would not be able to sub- 
jugate the Veians till they con- 
structed a passage for the waters 
of the lake of Albano. In conse- 
quence of this prediction, they 
began to cut through the mountain, 
and worked with such assiduity, 
that at the end of a year they had 
made a canal nearly two miles in 
length, about three feet and a half 
in breadth, and six feet in height. 
This operation cost immense sums 
of money ; but the canal was made 
so strong that it has never wanted 
any repair, and is still used for the 
purpose originally intended. 

Nearly a mile from Castel Gan- 
dolfo is 

La Riccia. — It was formerly 
called Aricia, and was the place 
where Horace made his first stay 
in his journey to Brindes. It is a 
market town, situated on the Ap- 
pian way, and on the charming 
lake of Nemi. The position is 
delightful, and the air very salu- 
brious. Opposite the Chigi palace 
is a beautiful church, erected from 
the designs of Chevalier Bernini. 
Four miles from Riccia is 

Gensano. — This village is situated 
on the side of the lake of Nemi ; 
it is rendered very pleasant by the 
plain and the large avenues, which 
form dehghtful promenades in its 
vicinity, and is remarkable for the 
salubrity of the air, and the good 
wines which it produces. On the 
eastern bank of the lake may be 
seen the ruins of several ancient 
buildings, and the house of Charles 
Maratta, on the interior walls of 
which may be seen some drawings 
by this skilful painter. The streets 
of the village are broad and 
straight, and lead into the great 
square, which is ornamented with 
a fountain. 



ROUTE 119. — ROME TO NAPLES BT TERRACINA. 



745 



At a short distance is the small 
market town of Nemi. In its 
neighbourhood are vineyards pro- 
ducing excellent wine, and very 
fine fruit. The lake in front con- 
tributes in no small degree to the 
beauty of its scenery. This lake 
is about four miles in circumfer- 
ence, and has an emissario, or canal, 
for its superabimdant waters. Ac- 
cording to Strabo, near this place 
there was a wood consecrated to 
Diana, and a temple of Diana 
Taurica, so much resorted to by 
the Latins that it gave rise to the 
building of this town. The lake 
was called Diana's Looking Glass, 
because it was said that this god- 
dess could, from her temple, view 
her own image in its waters. 

About three miles from Nemi is 
Civita Lavinia, a small castle on the 
spot where formerly stood the an- 
cient town of Lavinium, which 
was the birthplace of the Emperor 
Antoninus Pius, and of MUo. The 
two celebrated paintings men- 
tioned by Pliny, one .of Atlas and 
the other of Helen, were in this 
town. 

At a very short distance was the 
famous town of Lavinium, built by 
^.neas, in honour of Lavinia his 
wife. 

Near Lavinium was Laurentum, 
an ancient town, standing on the 
ground now occupied by Pratica, 
a ruined castle, situated on the sea 
shore, and said to be the place 
where ^neas landed on his arrival 
in Italy. 

All these places are now small 
and inconsiderable villages ; but 
whoever has perused the Eoman 
history, or the seventh book of 
Virgil's Eneid, wOl contemplate 
them with lively interest, and will 
be reminded, by a view of them, of 
the actions and exploits of many 
celebrated heroes of antiquity. 

About six miles from Gensano is 

Velletri. — This town was formerly 

the capital of the Volsci, whence 



the family of Octavian Augustus 
derived its origin. Octavian had 
a magnificent country house at this 
place, which was likewise adorned 
with the viUas of the Emperors 
Tiberius, Nerva, C. Caligula, and 
Otho. 

The most remarkable palaces in 
VeUetri, at the present time, are 
that of LanceUotti, formerly Gi- 
netti, and that of the ancient 
Borgia family. 

The LanceUotti Palace is a large 
edifice, built from the designs of 
Martin Lunghi. The front towards 
the street is very beautiful, and 
the staircase, all of marble, is one 
of the most remarkable ui Italy. 
The gardens of this palace are 
about six miles in circumference, 
and are well laid out and orna- 
mented. The waters used in the 
fountains have been brought, at an 
immense expense, from the moun- 
tain of Fajola, which is five miles 
distant, by means of aqueducts in 
some places cut through the moun- 
tain. The mountain of Velletri, as 
well as all the country between 
this place and Rome is covered 
with volcanoes. The celebrated 
Pallas, which has taken the name 
of this town, was found in the envi- 
rons in 1797. 

Deviating from the road, about 
nine mUes from Velletri, is the 
small village of Cora, which was 
formerly a town of Latium, inha- 
bited by the Volsci, and afterwards 
destroyed by the Romans. Its 
walls, which were formed of large 
blocks of stone, surrounded the 
town, and in them may still be 
seen terraces leading to subterra- 
nean ways, hollowed out of the 
rock, whence the besieged might 
defend themselves. 

At Cora are the remains of two 
temples ; the first is supposed to 
have been consecrated to Hercules, 
and is called the 

Ternple of Hercules. — There are 
eight Doric columns of the vesti- 



746 



SOUTHEBN ITALY.— ROUTE 119. ROME TO NAPLES. 



bule remaining, and the wall which 
separated the temple from the ves- 
tibule. On the frieze is an inscrip- 
tion mentioning the magistrates 
who built this edifice : from the 
orthography of this inscription it 
is apparent that this temple was 
erected in the time of the Emperor 
Claudian. The other temple was 
dedicated to Castor and Pollux ; 
two Corinthian columns and the 
inscription on the frieze of the 
entablature are the only vestiges 
remaining. 

Eight miles from Velletri, after 
passing the river Astura, the tra- 
veller reaches 

Cisterna. — Some antiquaries sup- 
pose that this is the place called by 
St Paul, in the Acts of the Apostles, 
Tres Tabernse, the Three Taverns, 
where he says that the Christians 
came to meet him ; but others show 
the ruins near Sermoneta, which is 
eight miles from Cisterna. 

Quitting the Naples road, the 
traveller may go to Sermoneta, for- 
merly Sulmona. This is a miser- 
able village, and is only remarkable 
for the remains of ancient fortifica- 
tions. 

About six miles from Sermoneta 
is the town of Sezze, caUed by the 
Latins Setia, or Setium. It is 
situated on the height in front of 
the Pontine Marshes. Titus Livy 
speaks of it on account of a revolt 
of Carthaginian slaves, and Martial 
mentions it for the superiority of 
its wines. Here may be seen con- 
siderable remains of an ancient 
temple of Saturn the entrance of 
which is closed by ruins ; but from 
the top of the arch it is ascertained 
to be about 135 feet in height. 

Seven miles and a half from Sezze 
is Piperno, a small town, likewise 
situated on the height. An inscrip- 
tion over the entrance informs us 
that this town was the ancient 
Pipernum, the capital of the 
Volsci. 

Returning to Cisterna, after pro- 



ceeding eight miles, the traveller 
reaches the 

Torre de' Tre PontL — At this inn 
commence the Pontine Marshes, 
which extend for a space about 
twenty-four miles in length, and 
varying from six to twelve miles in 
breadth. The name of Pontine 
Marshes, or Pomptina Palus, is 
derived from Pometia, which was a 
populous and considerable town 
even prior to the foundation of 
Rome, and was situated at the 
place now called Mesa, an inn, 
Dionysius of Halicarnassus, in the 
second book of his history, speaks 
of the Lacedemonians, who estab- 
lished themselves on this coast, 
and built a temple there to the 
goddess Eeronia, so called a ferendis 
arboribus, because she presided over 
the productions of the earth. 

This country afterwards became 
so populous that, according to the 
testimony of Pliny, there were 
no less than twenty-three towns. 
Amongst these towns were Sul- 
mona, now Sermoneta ; Setia, now 
Sezze ; Pipernum, now Piperno ; 
Antium, and Forum Appii, of 
which we have previously given an 
account. Independently of these 
towns, there were in the environs a 
great number of country liouses, of 
so much importance that the names 
of some of them are stiU preserved ; 
the most celebrated were those of 
Titus Pomponius Atticus, m the 
vicinity of Sezze ; of the Antoniana 
family, in the vicinity of the moun- 
tain called Antognano, where may 
still be seen the ruins of the Grotte 
del Campo ; of Mecene, near Pon- 
tanello, where there are some old 
walls ; and of Augustus, at a short 
distance from the palace of the 
Cornelia family, in the place called 
Maruti. 

The waters which descend from 
the neighbouring mountains, and 
flow very slowly, formed marshes 
at this place, and rendered the 
country totally unfit either for 



ROUTE 119. — ROME TO NATLES BY TEERACINA. 



747 



habitation or cultivation. In sum- 
mer they produced exhalations of 
so baneful a nature, that they were 
said to infect the air at Rome, which 
is about forty miles distant. This 
appears to hare been the opinion 
entertained as far back as the time 
of Phny, who says m his third 
book, fifth chapter, " Ob putridas 
exhaiationes harum paludum, ven- 
tum Syrophasnicum Romae sunmio- 
pere noxium volunt nonnulli." This 
persuasion instigated the Romans 
to provide against the mundations, 
which would have rendered their 
most beautiful residences unhealthy, 
and was the principal motive for 
the construction of the numerous 
canals at every period of their his- 
tory. 

Appius Claudius, in the year of 
Rome 442, was the first person who 
commenced any works in the Pon- 
tine marshes. When making his 
celebrated road across them, called 
Appian from his name, he con- 
structed canals, bridges, and chaus- 
sees, considerable parts of which 
still exist. The wars in which the 
Romans became engaged for along 
time diverted their attention, and 
prevented their keeping this dis- 
trict mthe state it required; inun- 
dations returned, and 158 years 
before the Christian era, extensive 
repairs became absolutely necessary. 

These works had remained in a 
neglected state for a long time, 
when Juhus Caesar formed the most 
extensive projects for the ameliora- 
tion of this part of the country ; he 
proposed to extend the mouth of 
the Tiber towards Terracina, to 
facilitate the mode of carrying on 
business at Rome, to draia the Pon 
tine marshes, and thus desiccate the 
neighbouring country. Plutarch, 
Suetonius, and Dionysius have 
mentioned this intention of Caesar, 
the execution of which was only 
prevented by his death. The pro- 
ject for draining the land was after- 
wards undertaken by Octavian 



Augustus, who caused canals to be 
made in various directions, for the 
purpose of conveying the water to 
the sea. According to the testmony 
of Dionysius, the Emperor Trajan 
paved the road which crossed the 
Pontine marshes, and constructed 
bridges and houses in many parts 
of it; the authenticity of this fact 
may be proved from the inscription 
on a stone iu the tower of Tre Ponti, 
on the Appian way. 

The marshes became again over- 
flowed at the time of the decline of 
the Roman empu'C; in the letters 
preserved by Cassiodorus, it is 
stated that Theodoric, king of Italy, 
consigned them to Cecihus Decius, 
for the purpose of draining them; 
and it appears that the enterjprise 
of Decius succeeded to the utmost 
of his expectations. The inscrip- 
tion made on the occasion may be 
seen near the cathedral of Ter- 
racina. 

Boniface Vin was the first Pope 
who undertook to desiccate the Pon- 
tine marshes: he caused a very 
large canal to be constructed, and 
thus drained all the upper part of 
the country; but the waters of the 
lower part being too much on a 
level, the canals gradually filled, 
and the inundation returned. 

Martin V, of the ancient house 
of Colonna, made another canal, 
which is stiU in existence, and is 
called Rio Martino. This work is 
so extensive, both in breadth and 
depth, that some persons have sup- 
posed it to be much older, and to 
have borne the name of Rio Mar- 
tino long before the pontificate of 
Martin V. This pope was in hopes 
he should be able to carry off all 
the water by this large canal, but 
his deatb put a period to the under- 
taking. 

Sixtus V, in 1585, prosecuted the 
same object, in order to purify the 
air, and augment the fertility of the 
Roman territory : he made another 
large canal, called Fiume Sisto, 



748 



SOUTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 119. ROME TO STAPLES. 



into which a great portion of the 
scattered water was collected, and 
afterwards discharged into the sea 
at the foot of Mount Circello, He 
made use of the old canals, formed 
by Appius Claudius, Augustus, and 
Trajan, in order to convey the 
waters into his new canal; and he 
constructed banks on both sides to 
prevent its overflowing. These 
banks, however, not being suflS- 
ciently strong, gave way after the 
death of Sixtus V, and the canal 
became almost useless. 

His successors for more than two 
centuries were engaged in surveying 
and forming plans for draining 
these marshes ; but the difficulty 
of its execution, and the great ex- 
penses attending it, always ob- 
structed the success of the under- 
taking. At length the great Pius 
VI, who entertained the same views 
respecting it as Sixtus V, consider- 
ing that he should be able to use 
for agricultural purposes 20,000 
rubbia, or 100,000 acres, employed 
Cajetan Rapini to make a new 
survey. This engineer discovered 
that all the waters might be col- 
lected in a canal adjoining the Ap- 
pian way, and by one he constructed 
in that direction he conveyed them 
into the sea at Torre di Badino. 
This was called the Linea Pia, a 
name which is derived from this 
pontiff, who in 1778 undertook the 
execution of it with no inconsider- 
able ardour. Several small canals 
convey the water into two others 
of larger size, and by this means 
stagnation is prevented. Pius VI 
several times visited it in person ; 
and sparing neither pains nor ex- 
pense, he brought the work to such 
a state of perfection that nearly the 
whole of this extensive country is 
now cultivated, the air is purified, 
and the Appian way, which was 
formerly under water, is now re- 
established. The road to Terracina 
was formerly very incommodious, 
as it passed through the mountains 



of Sezze and Piperno ; but the pre- 
sent is a level and straight road 
about twenty-five miles in length. 

About three miles from Torre Tre 
Ponti are the beautiful remains of 
some ancient monuments, which 
ornamented the Porum Appii and 
the celebrated Appian way. 

At the extremity of the western 
cape of the Pontine marshes, and 
at the mouth of the river Astura, is 
the tower of the same name, where 
there was a small port, from which 
Cicero embarked to go to his coun- 
try house at Formia on the day 
when he was assassinated. It was 
here also that the young Conradin, 
King of Naples, was betrayed and 
arrested by Prangipani, a nobleman 
of Astura, to whom he had fled for 
safety. 

Prom the extremity of the Pon- 
tine marshes, towards Torre d' As- 
tura, the distance to Nettuno is 
only six miles. Nettuno is a mari- 
time town in the Roman territory ; 
it took its name from the temple of 
Neptune, where sacrifices were 
offered to that deity for the purpose 
of obtaining a safe and prosperous 
voyage. 

A mUe and a half from Nettuno, 
and forty-two miles from home, is 
Capo d'Anzio, formerly caUed An- 
tium. It was a town of the Volsci, 
which was celebrated by the wars 
of the inhabitants against the 
Romans in the year of Rome 262. 
It had formerly a harbour, which 
was destroyed by Numicius in the 
year of Rome 284. This town was 
rendered very famous by its mag- 
nificent temples, dedicated to For- 
tune, Venus Aphrodite, and ^scu- 
lapius, and for the coimtry house or 
villa belonging to the emperors. 
Many statues have been discovered 
at this place, and amongst others 
the celebrated Apollo of the Vatican, 
and the Gladiator of Borghese. The 
Emperor Nero rebuilt Antiimi, and 
constructed an immense harbour 
there, on which, according to the 



ROUTE 119, — ROME TO NAPLES BY TERKACINA. 



749 



testimony of Suetonius, he expended 
large sums of money. Having 
afterwards fallen to ruins. Pope In- 
nocent Xn imdertook its re-estab- 
lishment, which was finally accom- 
phshed by Benedict XIV. The 
country houses of Corsini, Doria, 
and Albani demand attention for 
the beauty of their appearance. 

At the other western extremity 
of the Pontine marshes is Monte 
Circello, or cape of the famous 
Circe, a peninsula formed by a lofty 
rock, on which stands the town of 
San Felice. At this place was the 
palace of the Daughter of the Sun, 
and the dreadful prisons where 
Homer informs us that the com- 
panions of Ulysses were confined 
after their metamorphosis,and where 
they afterwards passed a whole 
year in the enjoyment of every 
luxury. 

Returning to the Appian way, at 
eight miles from Torre Tre Ponti, 
the traveller reaches 

Bocca di Fiume. — This is an inn 
in the immediate vicinity of which 
is a white marble bridge, erected 
over a canaL 

The next place on the route is 

Mesa, from whence the traveller 
proceeds to 

Ponte Maggiore, near which the 
navigable river Uffense crosses the 
road. At this place also the canal 
divides into two branches, one of 
which proceeds in a direct line to 
the sea, whilst the other meanders 
in an oblique direction along the 
side of the road. 

Teiracina. — {Albergo Reals), This 
is the last town in the Roman ter- 
ritory. It was bmlt by the Volsci, 
and called in their language Anxur 
or Axur, whence is derived the 
name of Jupiter Anxurus, so called 
by Virgil ; that is, Jupiter adored 
at Anxur. The Greeks afterwards 
denominated it Traxina, from which 
the name of Terracina is derived. 
The front of Jupiter's temple may 
stiU be seen, supported by large 



fluted marble columns, measuring 
four feet and a half in diameter. 
The ancient Anxur was situated on 
the summit of the hiU ; Horace 
alludes to it in the following line : 

" Impositum late sascis candentibus Anxur." 

The entrance to the cathedral 
church of Terracina is formed by 
two divisions of steps. On the first 
step is a granite urn, the lid of 
which is ornamented with palm 
leaves, and surmounted by a crown. 
On the base of it is an inscription, 
stating that this urn was formerly 
used for tormenting Christians, and 
afterwards for the purpose of dip- 
ping the hands on entering the 
church. The nave of this sacred 
edifice is supported by six columns 
of different kinds of marble ; the 
canopy of the altar rests on four^ 
beautiful fluted columns ; the pul-' 
pit, which is square, is formed into 
compartments with mosaic orna- 
ments, and is sustained by five 
small granite columns. 

The climate of this town is mild, 
and the views in the vicinity are 
truly picturesque. The palace, 
erected under the superintendence 
of Pius VI, is worthy of notice, to- 
gether with several other monu- 
ments of the munificence of this 
pope. 

The chain of mountains on which 
Terracina is situated is separated 
from the Apennines by the great 
valley of Monte Casino, which 
abounds Avith springs issuing from 
the foot of the momitain, and many 
of them flowing in numerous small 
streams into the Pontine marshes. 

The ancient Romans had many 
country houses on the hill of Ter- 
racina, The Emperor Galba had 
an extensive palace near the spot, 
where there are some ancient 
grottoes hollowed out of the rock. 
The traveller may likewise see the 
ruins of the palace of llieodoric, 
king of the Ostrogoths, who was the 
first king of Italy in 489, and at 
p 2 



750 



SOUTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 119. ROME TO NAPLES. 



that time the most powerful monarch 
in Em-ope. On the hill is the ancient 
enclosm^e of the walls of Anxur, 
consisting of large stones, reser- 
voirs of water, and the ruins of 
several ancient tombs, the urns of 
which are in good preservation. 

The harbour of this town, con- 
structed by Antoninus Pius, de- 
mands attention on account of the 
numerous remains which yet exist. 
The form of the basin may be dis- 
tinctly ascertained ; the stone rings 
to which the vessels were attached 
may also be seen ; but this harbour 
beiag filled with sand, the sea has 
retired from the basin. Several 
popes have entertained the idea of 
clearing this harbour, and the un- 
dertaking would certainly be pro- 
ductive of essential benefit. 

The famous Appian way passed 
'to Terracina, and a beautiful rem- 
nant of it is to be seen below the 
town, in the Canon's magazines. 
This fragment being contained in 
a kind of stables, has been better 
preserved than other parts ; the 
blocks of stone, in the form of irre- 
gular pentagons, are united with a 
degree of nicety equal to that of 
any new work. 

On the gate of Terracina, towards 
Naples, may be seen the arms of 
Pope Paul n, with an inscription 
in Gothic letters, bearing date of 
the year 1470. The adjacent guard- 
house is hollowed out of the rock, 
as are numerous deep caverns in 
many parts of the mountain. There 
is hkewise a scale of 120 divisions, 
marked by numbers, engraved on 
the rock, for the purpose of denot- 
ing the height of the declivity. 

From Terracina to Naples is a 
distance of sixty -nine miles, or nine 
postes. Six miles from Terracina 
is a tower called Torre de' Confini, 
or Portello, which forms the barrier 
between the kingdom of Naples and 
the territory of the Pope. There is 
a guard house at this place, where 
the passports obtained from the 



Naples minister at Eome must be 
exhibited ; the passports are then 
sent to the officer of the guard at 
the tower dell' Epitafio, who gives 
permission for the traveller to pro- 
ceed. 

The road then passes for several 
miles along the ancient Appian way, 
which is there much ruined. The bor- 
ders of this road are in many places 
planted with trees, the branches of 
which afibrd a pleasing shade from 
the heat of the sun. The air is in 
this part of the country so mild that 
at the end of December flowers of 
every kind may be seen in luxu- 
riant growth. 

Five miles from the tower dell' 
Epitafio is 

Fondi, a small town situated on 
the Appian way, which indeed forms 
its principal street. It was formerly 
one of the towns of the Aurimci, a 
people of Latium, and was almost 
destroyed in 1534 by a Turkish 
fleet, who wished to carry away 
Julia of Consagne, countess of 
Fondi, so celebrated for her beauty. 
Strabo, Pliny, and Martial speak in 
high terms of the wines of Fondi, 
which are still in great repute. 
Fondi is paved and intersected by 
two streets, wliich cross it at right 
angles. The walls are Avorthy of 
observation : the lower part of the 
town is said to have been built an- 
terior to the time of the Romans. 
The cathedi-al is a very ancient 
Gothic building, and contains a cu- 
riously worked marble tomb, a pon- . 
tifical chair, and a pulpit of marble 
covered with mosaics- In the 
church of the Annonciade is a pic- 
ture representing the pillage of this 
town by the troops of the famous 
Barbarossa. 

Near Fondi is the grotto where, 
according to Tacitus, Sejanus saved 
the hfe of Tiberius. 

In a house belonging to the Domi- 
nicans is the room inhabited by St 
Thomas Aquinas, and the hall in 
which he taught theology. The 



ROUTE 119 ROME TO NAPLES BY TERRACINA. 



•51 



lake of Fondi abounds with fish ; 
the eels are large and excellent, but 
the stagnation of water in this lake 
renders the air of the neighbouring 
country unhealthy. In the environs 
of Fondi numerous orange and 
lemon trees are grown. 

Suetonius mentions that villa 
Castello, the birthplace of the Em- 
peror Galba, was on the left of this 
road. 

Eight mUes from Fondi is 

Itri, a large village situated on 
the Appian way, about six miles 
from the sea. Numerous remains of 
the Cyclopede walls may still be 
seen there. Some authors state it 
to have been the ancient town men- 
tioned by Horace under the name 
of UrbsMumarrarum. This village 
is surrounded by hills abounding 
with vines, fig trees, laurels, myrtles, 
and mastic trees ] from the latter 
tree that valuable gum called mastic 
is obtained. The position is so 
pleasant, the fields so fragrant, and 
the productions so varied, that it 
cannot be viewed "^^dthout exciting 
the most delightful sensations. 

On the right of the road towards 
Moli di Gaeta is an ancient tower 
which is said to have been the tomb 
of Cicero ; it is supposed to have 
been erected by his freedmen on the 
spot where he was killed. It is a 
circular edifice resting on a square 
basement ; in the circular part are 
two roofed stories supported in the 
centre by a massive round column. 
Contiguous to this monument is a 
road which is probably the same 
by which Cicero went to the sea 
coast when he was assassinated. 

At a short distance on the sea 
shore is a fountain, conjectured to 
have been the fountain of Artachia, 
near which, according to Homer, 
Ulysses met the daughter of the 
king of the Lestrigons. 

Between the tower and Mola di 
Gaeta the road commands a delight- 
ful view of the town and gulf of 
Gaeta, as well as of Mount Vesu- 



vius and the neighbouring islands 
of Naples. 

Eight miles from Itri is 
Mola di Gaeta. — This is a large 
market town, situated near the sea 
and gulf of Gaeta. It is built on the 
ruins of the ancient Formia, a town 
of the Lestrigons, which was after- 
wards inhabited by the Laconians, 
of whom Ovid speaks in the four- 
teenth book of his Metamorphosis. 
This town was celebrated in the 
time of the ancients for the beauty 
of its situation. Horace places the 
wines of Formia in the same rank 
as those of Falerno. Formia was 
destroyed by the Saracens in 856. 

Mola has no harbour, but there 
are numerous fishermen. The sea 
shore is dehghtful ; on one side is 
seen the toAvn of Gaeta, advancing 
into the sea, and forming a charm- 
ing prospect ; and on the other side 
the isles of Ischia and Procida, 
which are situated near Naples. 

At CasteUone, between Mola and 
Gaeta, are some ruins which are 
confidently stated to be those of the 
country house of Cicero, called by 
him Formianum. Here Scipio and 
Lelius often retired for the purpose 
of recreation, and near here Cicero 
was assassinated at the time of the 
great proscription whilst escaping 
in a litter to elude the fury of Marc 
Antony, forty-four years before the 
Christian era. He was sixty-four 
years of age. 

Five miles from Mola is 
Gaeta, — This town contains 10,000 
souls, and is situated on the declivity 
of a hill ; it is very ancient, as it is 
supposed to have been founded by 
-^neas, in honour of Gajeta, his 
nurse, who died there according to 
the testimony of Virgil, Eneid, b. 7. 
1.1:— 

"Tu quoque littoribus nostris. jEneia 
Nutrix, 
jEternum moriens famam, Cajeta, de- 

disti, 
Et nunc servat honos sedem tuus ; os- 

saquenomen 
Hesperia in magna, si qua est ea gloria 
signant." 



752 



SOUTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 119. ROME TO NAPLES. 



Gaeta is situated on a gulf, the 
shore of which is truly delightful, 
and was formerly interspersed with 
beautiful houses. In the sea may 
still be seen the ruins of ancient 
buildings, similar to those in the 
gulf of Baia ; this proves the par- 
tiality which the Eomans enter- 
tained for these charming situa- 
tions. This town is nearly insulated, 
being only connected with the con- 
tinent by a narrow strip of land. 
There are only two gates, which 
are guarded with great care. It 
has a commodious harbour, which 
was constructed, or at least repaired, 
by Antoninus Pius, and in the 
immediate vicinity of the harbour 
is an extensive suburb. 

On the summit of the hill of 
Gaeta is a tower, commonly called 
Torre d' Orlando (Orlando's Tower), 
which is the most remarkable mo- 
nument in this town. According 
to the inscription on the gate, it 
was the mausoleum of Lucius Mu- 
natius Plancus, who is regarded as 
the founder of Lyons, and who in- 
duced Octavian to prefer the sur- 
name of Augustus to that of Eomu- 
lus, which some flatterers wished 
to give him as the restorer of the 
city of Rome. This mausoleum 
must have been erected sixteen 
years before the Christian era. At 
this place likewise is a superb 
column with twelve sides, on which 
are engraved the names of the dif- 
ferent points of the compass, in 
Greek and Latin. 

In the suburb of this toAvn is a 
tower called Latratina ; it is circu- 
lar, and is nearly similar to the 
first, which is supposed by Gruter 
to have been a temple of the god 
Mercury, whose oracles were deli- 
vered from a dog's head. Hence 
his temple was called Latratina, 
from ladrando, signifying barking. 

The fort of Gaeta was made by 
Alphonso of Aragon, about the year 
1440, and augmented by Kmg Fer- 
dinand and Charles V, who sur- 



rounded the town with thick walls, 
and rendered it the strongest for- 
tress in the kingdom of Naples. In 
a room in this castle the body of 
the constable Charles of Bourbon, 
general of the troops of Charles V, 
was preserved for a long time ; he 
was killed at the siege of Rome, 
which was pillaged by his army in 
the year 1528, after he had for a 
long time besieged Pope Clement 
VII. The body of this constable 
was to be seen here till within a 
few years ; but it is said that Fer- 
dinand I caused it to be interred 
with funeral rites worthy of his 
rank. Gaeta has lately resisted 
two long sieges, the first in the 
year 1806, against the French, and 
the other against the Austrians, in 
1815. 

The cathedral church is dedicated 
to St Erasmus, bishop of Antioch, 
who is the protector or patron saint 
of the town of Gaeta. This church 
contains a beautiful picture by Paul 
Veronese, and the standard given 
by Pius V to Don John of Austria, 
the general who commanded the 
Christian army against the Turks. 
Opposite the grand altar is a sym- 
bolical monument, which appears 
to have some reference to JEscula- 
pius. The steeple is remarkable 
for its height, and for the beauty 
of its work ; it is said to have been 
erected by the Emperor Frederick 
Barbarossa. 

The church of the Trinity is the 
most celebrated at Gaeta ; it is * 
situated outside the town, near a 
rock, which, according to the tra- 
dition of the country, was rent into 
three parts in honour of the Trinity 
on the day of our Saviour's death. 
A large block, fallen into the prin- 
cipal cleft of the rock, forms the 
foundation for a chapel of the cru- 
cifix, a small but elevated building, 
beneath which the sea passes at a 
considerable depth, and bathes the 
foot of this rock. This chapel was 
very ancient, but was rebuilt in 



ROUTE 119. — ROME TO NAPLES BY TERRACINA. 



753 



1514 by Peter Lusiano, of Gaeta. 
The situation is very singular, and 
there is perhaps no other chapel in 
a similar position. It is evident 
that this cleft has been produced 
by some violent eruption, as the 
projecting angles on one of its sides 
correspond to the indented parts of 
the opposite side. 

We shall now return to the Naples 
road, which we had left, in order to 
describe Mola di Gaeta. On leav- 
ing Mola the traveller proceeds on 
a line with the sea for a mile, when 
he leaves it for the same space, and 
again sees it at Scavali, a small 
village, where it forms an angle. 
He then passes near the sea-shore 
for another mile, and at the dis- 
tance of three miles sees the re- 
mains of an amphitheatre, and of 
an aqueduct and other ruins, which 
are supposed to have formed part 
of the ancient town of Minturnum. 
At a short distance he reaches the 
river 

Garigliano. — This river was for- 
merly called the Liris, and sepa- 
rated Latium from Campania ; the 
bridge over it is constructed with 
boats. On the gate leading to the 
bridge is a beautiful inscription 
relating to Quintus Junius Severi- 
anus, formerly a decurion at Min- 
turnum. At this place the traveller 
quits the Appian way, which runs 
parallel with the sea-shore as far 
as the mouth of the Volturno, where 
the Domitian way commences. 

The marshes formed by the Ga- 
rigliano in the vicinity remind us 
of the deplorable fate of Marius, 
that proud Koman who was so often 
victorious in the field, and seven 
times consul. He was obliged to 
immerse himself in the mud of these 
marshes, in order to avoid the pur- 
suit of the satellites of Sylla, but, 
being discovered, he intrepidly de- 
livered himself from them, and even 
made them tremble with his coun- 
tenance and threatening looks. 

About eight miles from the river 



Garigliano is Sessa, a small town, 
which is supposed to have been the 
ancient Suessa Auruncorum, one of 
the principal towns of the Volsci, 
and the birthplace of Lucilius, who 
was the first satirical Eoman poet. 

Returning to the Naples road, at 
eight miles from the Garigliano, 
the traveller reaches 

St Agatha, delightfully situated 
amongst nimierous gardens, and 
surrounded by pleasant hiUs. Eight 
miles from St Agatha is 

Sparanisi. — This is a solitary inn, 
from which it is eight miles to 

Capua. — This town is one mile 
and a half from the ancient Capua, 
twenty miles from Naples and 
twelve miles from the mouth of the 
Volturno, on which river it is situ- 
ated. It is surrounded by fortifica- 
tions, and is garrisoned by a con- 
siderable number of troops. Tra- 
vellers are obliged to send their 
passports to the governor, in order 
to obtain permission to pass. 

Strabo says that Capua was built 
by the Tyrrhenians, who were 
driven from the banks of the 
Po by the Gauls, about 524 years 
before the Christian era. Others 
suppose that it existed more than 
300 years before that time, and that 
it was founded by Capius, one of 
the companions of ^neas, from 
whom it derived the name of Capua. 
Strabo says its name was derived 
from Caput, the head, as it was one 
of the principal cities in the world. 
Florus reckons Rome, Carthage, 
and Capua, as the three first towns : 
Capua quondam inter tres maximas 
numerata. Lib. i, ch. 16. The Tyr- 
rhenians were driven from Capua 
by the Samnites, and the latter 
were in turn expelled by the Ro- 
mans, in whose time this town was 
celebrated for the beauty of its 
position. It was situated in a 
charming and fertile plain in Cam- 
pania, of which it was the capital, 
and was said by Cicero to be the 
finest colony of the Roman people. 



754 



SOUTHEEN ITALY. — ROUTE 119. ROME TO NAPLES. 



Hamiibal, in order to make the 
town of Capua his ally, gave a 
promise to its inhabitants, that he 
would render it the capital of Italy. 
The Romans revenged themselves 
on the inhabitants with extraor- 
dinary cruelty; for, having taken 
the town after a long siege, it was 
put in bondage, sold by auction, 
and the senators, after being beaten 
with rods, were beheaded. 

Genseric, king of the Vandals, 
finished the destruction of Capua 
in 455, and nothing was left but its 
name, which was given to a new 
town built in 856. This town was 
defcDded by a castle and fortifica- 
tions, which were destroyed in 
1718, and replaced by others of 
modern construction, so that Capua 
is now of much importance in the 
kingdom of Naples. The bridge 
over the Volturno at this place, 
which the traveller passes in his 
way from Rome, is by no means 
elegant, and is far inferior to that 
at the Naples gate, which is ancient 
and beautiful. 

The cathedral church of Capua 
is supported by granite columns of 
various dimensions, which have 
been taken from ancient buildings. 
In the third chapel on the right is 
a beautiful picture by Solimene, 
representing the Holy Virgin with 
the infant Jesus and St Stephen. 
The grand altar is ornamented with 
an Assumption, by the same painter. 
On the altar of the subterranean 
church is a half-length marble 
figure of Notre Dame de la Pitie, 
executed by Chevalier Bernini. In 
the middle of the church is a Christ 
as large as life, lying on a winding- 
sheet; it is finely sculptured by the 
same artist, Bernini. 

The church of the Annunciation 
likewise merits attention: the ex- 
terior displays a simple but elegant 
style of architecture, of the Corin- 
thian order ; its interior ornaments 
are modern, and are of the richest 
description. It is supposed to have 



been an ancient temple, formerly 
bunt at some distance from the old 
Capua; but it is certain that no 
part, except the socle, is really an- 
tique, the ancients being totally 
unacquainted with grouped pilas- 
ters like those on the exterior of 
this building. 

Many marbles and inscriptions 
from the ancient Capua may be 
seen inlaid in the walls of difierent 
houses, in various parts of the 
tovtai. The marble heads in bas- 
relief, placed under the entrance 
arch of the Judges' square, were 
likewise brought from the old town. 
The ancient Capua was situated 
a mile and a half from the new 
town, and considerable remains of 
it may stni be seen at the market 
town of Santa Maria. Two arches 
in the road on the side of Casihno 
are said to have formed one of the 
gates of the ancient Capua; but the 
most extraordinary vestige found in 
these ruins is an oval amphitheatre, 
measuring in the interior 250 feet 
ui length, and 150 in breadth, with- 
out including the thickness of the 
building, which is 130 feet in ad- 
dition. , Some parts of it are still 
in tolerable preservation, such as 
the great corridors, the arches, the 
steps, and the boxes for the accom- 
modation of the spectators. The 
amphitheatre is built of brick, and 
cased with white marble. The 
arena is so much sunk that the 
podium, or wall, which defended 
the spectators from the attacks of 
the ferocious animals, is no longer 
visible. This amphitheatre was 
composed of four orders of archi- 
tecture ; in one of the gates may be 
seen two arches of the Tuscan order, 
having at their key-stones a head 
of Juno, and a head of Diana, exe- 
cuted in bas-relief, but indiffer- 
ently sculptured. A chapiter of a 
Doric column, fallen over this gate, 
tends strongly to support the idea 
that the second order which orna- 
mented the exterior of the edifice 



ROUTE 119. — ROME TO NAPLES BY TERRACINA. 



755 



was Doric. From the top of the 
ruins of this amphitheatre there is 
a delightful and extensive prospect, 
commanding in the distance a view 
of Mount Vesuvius. 

The Appian way formerly passed 
to Capua. In the environs of Capua 
are several villages and temples, the 
names of which indicate the anti- 
quity of their origin : Marcianese was 
a temple of Mars ; Ercole, a temple 
didicated to Hercules ; Curtis, a 
palace or curia ; Casa Pulla, a tem- 
ple of Apollo, of which however no 
vestiges now remain. The temple 
of Jupiter Tiphatin was situated 
near Caserta, and the temple of 
Diana Lucifera, called Tiphatina 
has been replaced by the abbey of 
St Angel. The mountains in the 
vicinity of Capua and Caserta 
are stiU caUed Monti Tifatini; this 
name is derived from the volcano 
Tifata, which is now extinguished. 
About the year 1753, a quarry of 
white marble, with yeUow veins, 
was discovered at nine miles from 
Capua. The columns for the grand 
palace of Caserta were taken from 
this quarry, and, including the ex- 
pense of erection, only cost fifty-six 
piasters each. 

The distance from Capua to 
Naples is fifteen miles, or two postes. 
The road crosses a fertile and de- 
lightful country, where the myrtle, 
the laurel, and various odoriferous 
plants, as well as numerous fruit 
trees, may be seen flourishing in 
the most luxuriant state, even in 
the middle of winter. About half 
way between Capua and Naples is 

Aversa. — This town was at a short 
distance from the ancient Atella, 
celebrated amongst the Eomans for 
its bon-mots and witticisms, as well 
as for its obscenities and debauche- 
ries. Having been destroyed by the 
barbarians, Aversa was rebuilt about 
the year 1130, by the Normans, 
who conquered Naples and Capua. 
It was called Aversa, because it 



served to maintain ah equilibrium 
between those two towns. Charles 
I, of the house of Anjou, king 
of Naples, completely destroyed 
Aversa, because its inhabitants had 
revolted, and were supported by 
the house of Rebursa, whom he ex- 
terminated. The town did not, 
however, long remain in a state of 
dilapidation, the excellence of the 
chmate and the fertility of the soil 
causmg it to be re-edified. 

The town of Aversa is small, but 
neat and well built. It is situated 
in a delightful plain at the end of a 
broad and straight avenue, which 
leads to Naples. A delightful road 
leads to this town ; it is broad and 
straight, and bordered by um- 
brageous trees, round which vines 
twine their encircling branches. 
There are several beautiful churches, 
palaces, and other public buildings, 
amongst which may be distinguished 
the grand hospital for madmen, of 
which we shall give a description 
hereafter. 

The country in the environs of 
this town presents a coup d'oeil of 
surprismg beauty; fertile meadows, 
well-cultivated lands, and populous 
villages, alternately delight the eye. 
The last village is Capo di Chino, 
at which place conunences the new 
and magnificent road, lately con- 
structed to form a communication 
with Naples. Everything then be- 
gins to announce the vicinity of the 
capital of a considerable kingdom. 
The most distmguishing trait, how- 
ever, is the noise heard at about 
three or four miles fronl Naples: at 
first it appears distant and confused, 
but gradually augments as the tra- 
veller approaches ; the singing of 
one, and the shrill voices of others 
going to the town, or returnmg 
from it, the noise of the carriages, 
may aU be distinctly heard. At 
about a mile distant, the buzz on the 
outside, and the noise within the 
town, assail the ears, and from the 



756 



SOUTHERN ITALY. — IlISTORT OP NAPLES. 



apparent bustle it appears like an 
extraordinary fete day. It is, how- 
ever, constantly so from sunrise to 
sunset, and gives the traveller a 
correct idea of Naples beiag more 
populous than any other town in 
Italy. 

A railroad is now open between 
Capua and Naples, passing through 
Caserta, described in excursion from 
Naples. 

A BEIEF HISTORY OF 
NAPLES. 

This city is so ancient, that its 
origin is enveloped in the obscurity 
appertaining to the fables of anti- 
quity. According to some, Falerna, 
one of the Argonauts, founded it 
about 1300 years before the Chris- 
tian era ; according to others. Par- 
then ope, one of the Syrens, cele- 
brated by Homer in his ' Odyssey,' 
being shipwrecked on this coast, 
landed here, and built a town, to 
which she gave her name ; others 
attribute its foundation to Her- 
cules, some to JEneas, and others to 
Ulysses. Let us leave these opin- 
ions, and consider them as arising 
from the vanity of nations, who wish 
to attribute their origin to some re- 
markable and extraordinary event. 
It is more probable that Naples is 
indebted for its foundation to some 
Greek colonies ; this may be in- 
ferred from its own name, Neapolis, 
and from the name of another town 
contiguous to it, Paleopolis : the 
religion, language, manners, and 
customs of the Greeks, which were 
preserved here for a long period of 
time, are a sufficient indication of 
its aboriginal inhabitants. Strabo, 
in the fifth book of his Geography, 
speaks of these Greek colonies 
whence these cities derive their 
origin ; he likewise informs us that 
the people of Campania, and after- 
wards those of Cum«, obtained pos- 
session of Naples. The city of Cu- 



mse boasted much greater antiquity, 
and possessed much greater power 
than Naples, of the grandeur and 
beauty of which its inhabitants 
were very jealous ; they conse- 
quently destroyed it, but it was 
soon rebuilt by command of the 
Oracle, and it was not till then that 
it received the name ofNapoli, that 
is, New City, a name which it pre- 
serves to the present day. 

The increase of this city was 
slow and inconsiderable. No men- 
tion whatever is made of it by any 
historian, till thirty-three years be- 
fore the commencement of the 
Christian era, when it was classed 
amongst the confederated towns. 
A century afterwards, during Han- 
nibal's contest with the Eomans, 
it presented to the latter a consider- 
able sum of money for carrying on 
the war, and rejected the proposi- 
tions of that distinguished general. 
Hannibal endeavoured to obtain 
possession of the city, but being 
alarmed at the height of the walls, 
he desisted from the siege. This 
trait of generosity, or rather of 
policy, on the part of the Neapo- 
litans, who justly considered that 
their fortune was intimately con- 
nected with that of the Romans, 
procured them the constant friend- 
ship of that nation. Attracted by 
the beauties of this enchanting re- 
sidence, several rich and distin- 
guished inhabitants of Rome es- 
tablished themselves here. The 
town of Paleopolis was afterwards 
united to Naples, and it is said, 
that during the reigns of the em- 
perors it became a Roman colony. 
This town, after being embellished 
and augmented by Adrian, about 
the year 130, and by Constantine in 
308, was considered one of the most 
important in the Roman empire. 

Its strength and power caused it 
to be respected by the first barba- 
rians, who carried piUage and de- 
struction into Italy. In the year 



SOUTHERN ITALY. — HISTORY OF NAPLES. 



757 



409 of the Christian era, Alaric, 
king of the Goths, after having 
sacked the city of Rome, entered 
Campania ; the town of Nola was 
ahnost destroyed, but these barba- 
rians passed close to Naples, which 
was left unmolested by their fury. 
Genseric, king of the Vandals, in- 
vaded Italy in 455 ; he destroyed 
Capua, even to its foundation ; 
Nola was not spared ; the environs 
of Naples were laid waste, but the 
city itself was respected. In one 
of the castles, called LucuHanum, 
the yoimg Augustulus, the last em- 
peror of Rome, retired after having 
been dethroned by Odoacre, king of 
the Heruli, in the year 476. Na- 
ples at length experienced the same 
fate as other parts of Italy ; it was 
subdued by Odoacre, and then by 
Theodoric, king of the Goths, who 
gave it the title of County. 

Naples was the first town which 
offered any resistance to the troops 
of the Emperor Justinian under 
the command of Belisarius, who 
was sent into Italy in the year 
536, for the purpose of again sub- 
jecting it to the power of the 
emperors. Belisarius besieged Na- 
ples by sea and land ; his efforts 
were for a long time of no avail, 
and he was preparing to take his 
troops to another part, when he 
discovered the subterranean aque- 
ducts which still exist ; by means 
of these he introduced some of the 
bravest soldiers in his army, who 
having rendered themselves masters 
of every important post, pillaged 
the town and massacred its inha- 
bitants, without any regard to age, 
rank, or sex Affected by the de • 
plorable condition of this city, and 
urged by the reproaches of the 
Pope St Sylvester, BeUsarius was 
amongst the first to take measures 
for the re-establishment and re- 
population of Naples ; and these 
measures were so effectually exe- 
cuted that, in the year 542, it was 
capable of sustaining another siege 



against Totila. It then experienced 
all the horrors of famine. Deme- 
trius, who was sent from Constan- 
tinople to assist it, was beaten in 
sight of Naples, and the provisions 
on board his vessels fell into the 
hands of the enemy ; Maximin, 
prefect of the Pretorium, was not 
more fortunate, and Naples was 
compelled to surrender. The cru- 
elty of Totila being considerably 
mitigated by the remonstrance of 
St Benedict, he treated the city 
with humanity, and contented him- 
self with destroying the walls, that 
he might not again be exposed to 
such a tedious siege. 

Narses entered Italy in order to 
re-establish the affairs of the em- 
peror ; TotUa was conquered and 
killed ; Tela, his successor to the 
throne of the Goths, perished soon 
after, in another battle, which took 
place near Naples, at the foot of 
Mount Vesuvius. The dominion 
of these barbarians was then ter- 
minated in Italy, and in 567 the 
kingdom became subjected again 
to the Emperor of Constantinople, 
who entrusted the government of 
it to the exarchs established at 
Ravenna, who extended their power 
as far as Naples. 

The Lombards, who came from 
Austria and Hungary, made an 
irruption into Italy, and in the 
year 568 founded a powerful king- 
dom there, wMch existed tiU the 
time of Charlemagne, in 774 ; but 
they did not obtain possession of 
the city of Naples ; it was ineffec- 
tually besieged, and remained faith- 
ful to the eastern emperor. It 
had the name of Duchy, but it 
chose its own magistrates and 
officers, and enjoyed a kind of 
independence. The dukes of Bene- 
ventum, who were Lombard princes, 
extended their dominion as far as 
Capua. In the year 663, the Em- 
peror Constant made an attempt to 
take the town of Beneventum, but 
he was obliged to retire to Naples, 



758 



SOUTHERN ITALY. — HISTORY OF NAPLES. 



at the approach of Grimoald, king 
of the Lombards. Arigise II, son- 
in-law of King Didier, declared 
himself the sovereign of it in the 
year 787 ; his successors besieged 
Naples several times, and at length 
rendered it tributary about the 
year 830. 

The Saracens, who were inha- 
bitants of Africa, came into Italy 
in the year 836, committed new 
ravages, and caused new wars ; 
they gained possession of Misena, 
and destroyed it ; they devastated 
the environs of Naples, but did 
not enter the city itself. Sergius, 
duke of Naples, afterwards formed 
an alliance with the Saracens ; he 
persecuted St Athanasius, the bi- 
shop of Naples, and took possession 
of the treasure of the cathedral ; 
for these acts he was excommuni- 
cated in the year 872, and an inter- 
dict was issued against the city 
of Naples. Another Athanasius, 
bishop of Naples, had his eyes put 
out by order of Sergius, who sent 
him to Rome, and estabhshed him- 
self in his place, in the year 877. 
This new duke and bishop, conti- 
nuing the alliance with the Sara- 
cens, was likewise excommunicated, 
and in order to support his cause, 
brought troops from Sicily in 885. 
It was then that Mont Cassin was 
pillaged, and the Abbe Bertaire 
killed at the altar of St Martin. 
The Saracens were not driven from 
the country till 914, when Pope 
John X having leagued himself 
with the princes of Beneventum, 
of Capua, of Naples, and of Gaeta, 
made war against the- Saracens, 
defeated them, and compelled them 
to take flight. We shall pass over 
all the divisions and petty wars 
which happened in this century 
amongst the princes of Beneven- 
tum, Naples, Capua, the Greeks, 
Saracens, and Latins, in order to 
notice more particularly the period 
when the kingdom of Naples as- 
sumed a new aspect on the arrival 



of the Normans in the eleventh 
century. 

It is perhaps the most remark- 
able event in this history, that a 
new state was formed by forty 
Norman gentlemen, who returned 
in 1016 from visiting the church of 
St Michael of Mount Gargan in 
Apulia, and who were assisted by 
a few others coming from the Holy 
Land in the following year. The 
Greeks laid siege to the town of 
Bari ; the celebrated Melon, a 
Lombard, who wished to deliver 
this country from the tyranny of 
the Greeks, solicited the assistance 
of the Normans, in conjunction 
with whom he attained his object. 
The Normans likewise rescued 
Guaimaire III, a prince of Salerno, 
who was besieged by the Saracens ; 
this victory induced them to remain 
in the country, Avhere they after- 
wards, being assisted by other Nor- 
mans whom they invited, drove 
out the Saracens and Lombards, 
and established a kingdom. 

The Emperor Henry II, who 
came into Italy to opj)ose the pro- 
gress of the Greeks, was recognised 
as sovereign, in 1022, at Naples, at 
Beneventum, and at Salerno ; and 
he gave the Normans several set- 
tlements in Apulia. They after- 
wards assisted Pandolf, the count 
of Capua, to regain his possessions. 
This count, in order to revenge 
himself on Sergius TV, duke of 
Naples, with whom he was at 
enmity, took the city, ravaged it, . 
and pillaged it, not sparing the 
churches. Sergius returned with 
the assistance of the Normans, and 
retook his capital in 1030 ; he gave 
them a territory between Naples 
and Capua, where they settled and 
rebuilt the town of Aversa, of 
which Rainulf was the first count. 

The success of these Normans in 
their new colonies attracted their 
countrymen to Italy : three of the 
twelve sons of Tancred of Haute- 
ville, William Iron Arm, Drogon, 



SOUTHERN ITALY. — HISTORY OF NAPLES. 



759 



and Onfroi, arrived there in 1038 ; 
they distinguished themselves on 
every occasion, and afforded great 
assistance to the Greeks, but the 
ingratitude of the latter having 
instigated the Normans to make 
war, Drogon created himself count 
of Apulia ; the pope, St Leo IX, 
and the emperor, united to expel 
him, but the pope fell into the 
hands of Robert Guiscard, another 
son of Tancred of HautevOle, who 
entered Italy in the year 1053. 

The Normans paid every respect 
to this pope whilst he was their 
prisoner ; they conducted him to 
the town of Beneventum, which 
had belonged to him since the pre- 
ceding year ; and it was there, 
according to historians, that he 
bestowed the investiture of Apulia, 
of Calabria, and of Sicily, on On- 
froi, one of Tancred's sons, on 
account of his homage to the holy 
see. Eobert Guiscard took the 
title of duke of Calabria in 1060, 
and continued to extend his con- 
quests ; he afterwards liberated 
Pope Gregory VII from the hands 
of the Emperor Henry IV, who 
besieged hun in Rome ; but he did 
more injury to the town than the 
enemies he had driven away. He 
was preparing to make war with 
the Greeks, when death put a 
period to his operations, in 1085. 

Roger, son of Robert Guiscard, 
succeeded him, and was proclaimed 
duke of Calabria and of Salerno : 
Boemond and Tancred, his son and 
nephew, set out in 1096 for the 
crusade. This is the Tancred 
whose adventures and amours 
were so much celebrated by the 
poets, and particularly by Tasso. 

At the time when Duke Roger 
was about to pass into Sicily, on 
account of a conspiracy formed by 
a Greek against the Count of Sicily, 
Pope Urban II was so pleased with 
his zeal for the welfare of the 
CathoHc church, that in 1100 he 
nominated him and his succes- 



sors apostoMc legates to the whole 
island ; he performed the functions 
of this of&ce with great fidehty ; 
he re-established religion in Sicily, 
and founded numerous hospitals, 
churches, and bishoprics. 

Roger, the second son of the pre- 
ceding, having been made Count of 
Sicily, obtained possession, in the 
absence of his eldest brother, of 
Apulia and of Calabria ; the Duke 
of Naples swore fidelity to him 
in 1129 ; and having afterwards 
become master of all the territory 
now forming the kingdom of Naples 
and Sicily, he took the title of king, 
with the consent of the Antipope 
Anacletus ; he subdued all who 
wished to oppose him, and com- 
pelled Pope Innocent II to confirm 
his title of king of Sicily in the 
year 1139. He carried his con* 
quests to Africa, rendering himself 
master of Tripoli, of Tunis, and cf 
Hippona ; and he left his kingdom, 
in the year 1154, to his son, William 
the Wicked. Vf iUiam II, surnamed 
the Good, succeeded his father in 
1166. 

In 1189 Tancred, son of King 
Roger, was elected king of Sicily, 
on account of his superior abihties, 
although the Emperor Henry VI 
laid claim to this kingdom, as 
having married Constance, the 
posthumous daughter of King 
Roger. 

After the death of Tancred, in 
the year 1192, the Emperor Henry 
VI, son of Frederick Barbarossa, 
obtained possession of the kingdom, 
and transmitted it to his son. Fre- 
derick n swayed the sceptre of 
Sicily for fifty-three years ; but bis 
death happening in 1250, Pope 
Innocent IV took possession of 
Naples as part of the property of 
the holy see. The son of Frede- 
rick was excommunicated by this 
pope, as a mark of disrespect and 
hatred towards his father ; the city 
of Naples closed its gates against 
him, but he besieged it, took it by 



760 



SOUTHERN ITALY. — HISTORY OF NAPLES. 



famine in 1254, and treated the 
inhabitants with extraordinary- 
cruelty. Mainfroi, or Manfredi, 
the natural son of Frederick II, 
obtained the crown, to the pre- 
judice of Conradin, son of the 
Emperor Conrad IV, who was the 
rightful heir as the grandson of 
Frederick. 

Pope Urban IV afterwards be- 
stowed Naples and Sicily, in 1265, 
on Charles, count of Anjou and of 
Provence, brother of St Louis, who 
engaged to pay tribute to the court 
of Rome. In the meantime Con- 
radin brought an army from Ger- 
many to conquer his kingdoms ; 
the Ghibelines of Italy received him 
with open arms ; but having been 
defeated by the troops of Charles 
of Anjou, he was taken, as well as 
the young Frederick, the heir to 
the duchy of Austria, and they 
were both executed at Naples in 
1268, by order of Charles of Anjou. 

The house of Suabia then became 
extinct, and Naples passed under 
the dominion of a new race of kings. 
Charles I established his residence 
at Naples, and this gave rise to a 
revolution in Sicily ; the French 
were put to the sword on Easter 
day, 29th March, 1282, at the time 
when the vespers were being sung 
at Palermo. John of Procida', who 
was the principal author of the 
Sicilian vespers, was deprived, by 
King Charles of Anjou, of his island 
of Procida, for having taken the 
part of Manfredi and Conradin. 
Peter of Arragon, who married a 
daughter of Manfredi, was made 
king of Sicily ; and these kingdoms 
were separated till the time of Fer- 
dinand the Catholic, who imited 
them in 1504. 

Charles II succeeded his father, 
Charles I, and transmitted the 
kingdom to his son, Robert the 
Good, in 1309. This prince dis- 
played considerable talent, and 
under his reign the arts, sciences, 
and literature were most cultivated 



at Naples. In 1341 Jane I, grand- 
daughter of Robert, succeeded to 
the throne of Naples ; she married 
Andrew, son of the King of Hun- 
gary; but he was strangled in 1345, 
probably with the approbation of 
the queen ; others, however, attri- 
bute his death to the intrigues of 
Charles de Duras, who contrived 
the death of this unfortunate queen. 

The grand schism of the west 
commenced in 1378, by the double 
election which the cardinals suc- 
cessively made of Urban VI and 
Clement VII; the latter was recog- 
nized as pope by France and by 
Queen Jane. Urban excommuni- 
cated the queen, and declared her 
deprived of her estates ; he invited 
from Hungary Charles de Duras, a 
descendant of Charles II, and gave 
him the kingdom of Naples. The 
queen, in order to have a protector, 
nominated as her successor the Duke 
of Anjou, brother of Charles V, 
king of France, and second son of 
King John ; but she could not pre- 
vent Charles de Duras from enter- 
ing Naples on the 16th July, 1381. 
The queen was besieged in the 
CasteUo dell' Uovo, and was obliged 
to surrender ; Charles de Duras 
ordered her to be executed on the 
22nd May, 1382, just as the Duke 
of Anjou was entering Italy to 
assist her. For the sake of brevity 
we shall pass over the successors of 
Charles IH and of Louis of Anjou. 

In the year 1493 Charles VIH, 
being at peace with Spain, England,,, 
and the Low Countries, determined 
to support the claims of the house 
of Anjou to the kingdom of Naples ; 
he was lively and ardent, his fa- 
vourites encouraged him to under- 
take this conquest, and he accom- 
plished the desired object ; he 
entered Naples on the 21st Feb- 
ruary, 1495 ; he made his entry 
with the imperial ornaments, and 
was saluted with the name of 
Csesar Augustus, for the pope, 
Alexander VI, had declared him 



SOUTHERN ITALY. — ^HISTOKT OF NAPLES. 



761 



Emperor of Constantinople on his 
passage into Rome. It is true that 
Charles VIII had besieged him in 
the castle of St Angelo ; but he 
atoned for this offence by waiting 
on him at mass, and paying him 
filial obedience in the most solemn 
manner. 

A short time after, the Venetians, 
the pope, the emperor, and the king 
of Arragon, being leagued against 
Charles VIII, he could not preserve 
his conquest, and he would with 
difficulty have regained France had 
he not won the battle of Eornova in 
1495. Ferdinand IE then returned 
to his kingdom of Naples, by the 
assistance of Ferdinand the Catholic, 
king of Arragon and of Sicily. He 
died in 1496, without leaving any 
heir. 

Louis XII then wished to lay claim 
to the kingdom of Naples, as the 
successor of the ancient kings of 
the house of Anjou, and particu- 
larly of Charles VIII, who had been 
king of Naples in 1495 ; Ferdinand 
likewise supported his pretensions 
to it as a nephew of Alphonso, king 
of Naples, who died without issue 
in 1458. In 1501 Louis sent Gon- 
zalvo of Cordova, surnamed the 
Great Captain, under pretence of 
assisting his cousin against the 
King of France, but in fact to divide 
with him the kingdom of Naples, 
according to a secret convention en- 
tered into between these two kings. 
Frederic II was obliged to abandon 
his estates ; he retired to Tours, 
where he died in 1504. Louis Xn 
and the King of Arragon divided 
the kingdom, but Naples belonged 
to the French. This division, which 
took place in 1501, gave rise to new 
difficulties ; a war was kindled be- 
tween the French and Spaniards ; 
and Ferdinand, notwithstanding the 
treaty, took possession of the king- 
dom. Gonzalvo gained the battle 
of Seminira in Calabria, where he 
took the French general, Aubigne, 
prisoner, and the battle of Cerignole, 



in Apulia, when Louis d'Armagnac, 
duke of Nemours and viceroy of 
Naples, was killed on the 28th of 
April, 1503. He gained a third 
battle near the Garigliano, and en- 
tered Naples in the same year. 
The French then lost the kingdom 
of Naples for ever, and this city 
afterwards submitted for more than 
two centuries to foreign princes who 
did not reside in Italy. 

Charles V, who became king of 
Spain in 1516, continued to sway 
the sceptre of Naples, as did Philip 
II and his successors, till the con- 
quest of the Emperor Joseph I, in 
1707. 

Whilst the kings of Spain were 
in possession of Naples, they ap- 
pointed viceroys who, being screen- 
ed by distance from the superin- 
tendence of their sovereig-n, often 
oppressed the people. The Duke 
of Archos, who was viceroy in 1647, 
under Philip IV, wished to lay a 
tax on fruit in addition to the ex- 
cessive imjposts with which the 
Neapolitans were already burdened. 
This new demand was so exorbitant 
that it excited the murmurs of the 
people. The viceroy was often im- 
portuned by the solicitations and 
the clamours of the populace, whilst 
crossing the market place to go to 
the church of the Carmelites, on 
every Saturday, as was the custom. 
About the same time the people of 
Palermo compelled the viceroy of 
Sicily to suppress the duties on 
flour, wine, oil, meat, and cheese : 
this example encouraged the Nea- 
poUtans, and gave rise to the fa- 
mous conspiracy of which Masani- 
ello was the chief mover. 

The chief of the conspiring party 
was a yoimg man, 24 years of age, 
named Thomas AnieUo, but by the 
populace pronounced MasanieUo. 
He was born at Amalfi, a smaU town 
in the gulf of Salerno, twenty- seven 
miles from Naples, and was by pro- 
fession a fishermen. The general 
discontent so inflamed his mind that 



762 



SOTJTHERN ITALY. — ^HISTORY OF JfAPLES. 



he resolved to hang himself or take 
off the tax on fruit. On the 16th 
June, 1647, he went to the shops of 
the fruiterers and proposed to them 
to come the next day to the market 
place together and publicly declare 
that they would not pay the duty ; 
the assessor, however, having ob- 
tained information of the proceed- 
ing, repaired to the spot, where he 
gave the people hopes that the tax 
should be removed, and thus dissi- 
pated the tumult. On the 7th July, 
however, the tumult having recom- 
menced, he attempted ineffectually 
to quell the disturbance, and had 
nearly been killed by the populace. 
Masaniello took this opportunity of 
assembling the most determined ; 
he conducted them to the place 
where the offices and chests of the 
collectors were situated ; these they 
pillaged immediately, and after 
breaking open the prisons and free- 
ing the captives they proceeded to 
the palace of the viceroy, whom 
they compelled to promise that the 
duty should be taken off ; he after- 
wards took refuge in the new castle ; 
the people, however, besieged him 
there, and not contenting themselves 
with his promises, made him 
pledge himself to suppress the duty, 
and to maintain the privileges 
and exemptions granted to the Nea- 
politans by Ferdinand lof Arragon, 
as well as by Frederick and Charles 
V. They likewise insisted that the 
council and all the nobihty should 
ratify this engagement. 

At the same time the people pil- 
laged the houses of the collector, 
and of all those who had any share 
in imposing the duty on fruit ; and 
they were about to commit similar 
depredations on the palaces of se- 
veral noblemen had they not been 
diverted from their intention by the 
timely interposition of Cardinal 
Filemarino, archbishop of Naples, 
for whom the people entertained 
great friendship and respect. 

Masaniello was, however, elected 



captain-generalof the people on the 
9th July ; his spirit, firmness, and 
good behaviour rendered his autho- 
rity more considerable every day ; 
a kind of throne was erected for 
him in the centre of the market- 
place, on which he ascended with 
his counsellors, and gave audience 
to the public. There, in his white 
fisherman's dress, he received peti- 
tions and requests, pronounced 
judgment, and caused his orders to 
be immediately obeyed. He had 
more than 150,000 men at his com- 
mand. The viceroy attempted to 
assassinate Masaniello, and to poison 
the water of the aqueduct, but he 
did not succeed; he was then more 
closely confined in the castle, and 
his provisions cut off. 

Masaniello, in order to avoid 
being surprised, forbade any person 
under pain of death to wear a man- 
tle; everybody obeyed; men, wo- 
men, and clergy, no longer wore 
mantles or any other dress under 
which weapons could be concealed. 
He fixed the price of provisions, 
established a very strict police, and 
with firmness ordered the execution 
of the guilty. 

If Masaniello had rested here, 
his power might have lasted a con- 
siderable time; but his authority 
rendered him haughty, arrogant, 
and even cruel. 

On the 13th July, negotiators 
having arrived to conciliate the 
people, the viceroy proceeded with 
great state and ceremony to the 
cathedral church; he caused the 
capitulation exacted from him by 
the people to be read m a loud 
voice, and signed by each of the 
counsellors ; they made oath to 
observe it, and to obtain its con- 
firmation from the king. Masani- 
ello stood near the archbishop's 
throne, with his sword in hand and 
haughty with success; from time 
to time he made various ridiculous 
propositions to the viceroy; the 
first was, to make him commandant- 



SOTJTHEKN ITALY. — HISTORY OF NAPLES. 



763 



general of the city; the second, to 
give him a guard, with the right of 
naming the military oflEicers, and 
granting leaves ; a third was, that 
his excellency should disband all 
the guards who were in the castle. 
To these demands the viceroy an- 
swered in the afl&rmative, in order 
that the ceremony might not be 
disturbed by his refusal. After the 
Te Deum the viceroy was recon- 
ducted to the palace. 

On the 14th of July Masaniello 
committed numerous extravagant 
actions ; he went on horseback 
through the city, imprisoning, tor- 
turing, and beheading people for 
the slightest offences. He threatened 
the viceroy, and compelled him to 
go and sup with him at PausUippo, 
where he became so intoxicated as 
entirely to lose his reason. His 
wife displayed her extravagance in 
follies of a diflPerent kind ; she went 
in a superb carriage, taken from 
the Duke of Maddalone, to see the 
vice-queen, with the mother and 
sisters of Masaniello, clothed in the 
richest garments, and covered with 
diamonds. 

Masaniello had intervals in which 
he conducted himself with propriety. 
In one of these moments he sent to 
inform the viceroy that he wished 
to abdicate the command. How- 
ever, on the 15th, he continued his 
folUes ; he told Don Eerrante 
Caracciolo, the master of the horse, 
that as a punishment for not having 
descended from his carriage when 
he met him he should kiss his feet 
in the market-place. Don Ferrante 
promised to do this, but saved him- 
self by flight to the castle. The 
foolish Masaniello could not manage 
even the populace, to whom he 
owed his elevation, and this was the 
cause of his ruin. 

On the 16th of July, fete day of 
Notre Dame of Mount Carmel, which 
is the grandest solemnity in the 
market church of Naples, Masaniello 
went to hear mass ; and when the 



archbishop entered he went before 
him, and said, " Sir, I perceive that 
the people are beginning to abandon 
me, and are wiUing to betray me, 
but I wish for my own comfort and 
for that of the people, that the vice- 
roy and all the magistrates may 
this day come in state to the church." 
The cardinal embraced him, praised 
his piety, and prepared to say mass. 
Masaniello immediately ascended 
the pulpit, and taking a crucifix in 
his hand, began to harangue the 
people who filled the church, and 
conjured them not to abandon him, 
recaUing to their recollection the 
dangers he had encountered for the 
pubhc welfare, and the success 
which had attended his undertak- 
ings. Then falling into a kind of 
delirium, he made a confession of 
his past life in a furious and fanatic 
tone, and exhorted others to imitate 
his example. His harangue was so 
silly, and he introduced so many 
irrelevant things, that he was no 
longer listened to, and the archbishop 
desired the priests to tell him to 
come down. They did so, and 
Masaniello, seeing that he had lost 
the public confidence, threw himself 
at the feet of his eminence, begging 
him to send his theologian to the 
palace in order to carry his abdica- 
tion to the viceroy. The cardinal 
promised to do so ; but as Masaniello 
was in a perspiration, he was taken 
into a room belonging to the con- 
vent to change his linen. After 
having rested, he went to a balcony 
overlooking the sea, but a minute 
after he saw advancing towards 
him several men, who had entered 
through the church, and were call- 
ing him ; he walked up to them, 
saying, " My children, is it I whom 
you seek ? here I am." They an- 
swered him by four musket shots, 
and he fell dead. The populace, 
now left without a leader, were soon 
dispersed. The head of Masaniello 
was carried at the end of a lance 
as far as the viceroy's palace with- 



764 



SOUTHERN ITALT. — ^HISTORY OF NAPLES. 



out experiencing the least resistance 
from the people. But the viceroy 
wishing to take an improper advan- 
tage of this fortunate circumstance, 
Masaniello was taken out of his 
tomb by the people, and after being 
exposed two days, was interred 
with the honours due to a captain- 
general. 

The people of Naples continued 
in a state of considerable agitation 
for several months, and he published 
a manifesto in order to obtain the 
assistance of foreign powers. Henry 
de Lorraine, duke of Guise, who 
had been obliged to quit France, 
retired to Eome in the month of 
September, 1647 ; he thought that 
the disturbances at Naples offered 
him a favourable opportimity to 
drive out the Spaniards, to estab- 
lish the Dutch form of repubhc, 
and to make himself viceroy, by 
heading the people against the 
Spaniards. In fact, he conquered 
the kingdom of Naples, and was for 
some time the general to the people, 
after the death of the Prince of 
Massa, which happened on the 
21st of October, 1647. He took 
possession of the Torrione del Car- 
mine, the other castles being occu- 
pied by the Spaniards ; he estab- 
lished and fortified himself before 
the church of St John, at Carbonara; 
he had induced many noblemen to 
join him, and his affairs were in an 
advanced and prosperous state, 
when the Spaniards, profiting by 
his occasional absence, surprised 
the Torrione and the posts of the 
Duke of Guise. He was arrested 
near Caserta, where he had retired, 
waiting for some troops of his own 
party; he was then conducted to 
Spain, and thus terminated the dis- 
turbances of Naples. 

The kings of Spain continuing 
the sovereigns of this kingdom, 
Philip V, the grandson of Louis 
XIV, went to take possession of 
Naples in 1702. He preserved it 
for six years ; but in 1707 General 



Count Daun took possession of the 
kingdom of Naples in the name of 
the Emperor Joseph ; and the 
branch of the house of Austria, 
reigning in Germany, preserved 
this kingdom even when the house 
of Bourbon was established in Spain ; 
for by the treaty signed at Baden 
on the 7th of September, 1714, they 
gave up to the Emperor Charles VI 
the kingdom of Naples and Sar- 
dinia, the Low Countries, and the 
duchy of Milan and Mantua, as 
part of the inheritance of Charles II, 
king of Spain. 

The division still subsisting be- 
tween Spain and the house of 
Austria, the Emperor Charles VI 
was obliged to give up Sicily, by 
the treaty of Utrecht, to Victor 
Amadeus, duke of Savoy. Philip 
V, king of Spain, retook it with 
very little trouble in 1718 ; but by 
the treaty of 1720, he consigned to 
Charles VI all the revenue of this 
island. The emperor was acknow- 
ledged by every other power king 
of the Two Sicilies, and King Victor 
was obliged to rest contented with 
Sardinia instead of Sicily. The 
Duke of Orleans, the regent of 
Erance, who was not on good terms 
with the King of Sardinia, contri- 
buted greatly to this change rather 
unfavourable to this monarch. 

When war was declared between 
Erance and the empire in 1733, on 
account of the crown of Poland, 
Erance having taken the Milan ter- 
ritory, Don Carlos, son of the King 
of Spain, and already Duke of Parma, 
took possession of the kingdom of 
Naples and Sicily in 1734, which 
was confirmed to him by the treaty 
of Vienna in 1736, in the same 
manner as the duchy of Lorraine 
was given to Erance, Parma and 
Milan to the Emperor Charles VI, 
Tuscany to the Duke of Lorraine, 
and the towns of Tortona and No- 
vara to the King of Sardinia. 

Naples then began to see her 
sovereign residing within her own 



SOUTHERN ITALY. — GENERAL VIEW OF NAPLES. 



765 



walls, an adrantage of which this 
city had been deprived for upwards 
of two centuries. Don Carlos, or 
Charles III, had the feUcity to enjoy 
this new method of dominion ; he 
reformed abuses, made wise laws, 
established a trade with the Turks, 
adorned the city with magnificent 
buildings, and rendered his reign 
the admiration of his subjects. His 
protection of literature and the fine 
arts may be seen in the works ex- 
ecuted under his direction at Her- 
culaneum and Pompeii, and in the 
great care he displayed to preserve 
the monuments of antiquity. He 
employed numerous skilful artists 
in that immense undertaking, the 
erection of the palace of Caserta ; 
and Naples, under his benignant 
sway, has enjoyed more tranquillity 
and flourished in greater prosperity 
than at any former period. 

During the war of 1741, respecting 
the succession of the emperor 
Charles VI, the English had ap- 
peared before Naples with a formid- 
able fleet, in order to force the king 
to sign a promise not to act against 
the interests of the Queen of Hun- 
gary, yet he did not conceive him- 
self justified in refusing assistance 
to the Spaniards, who after the 
battle of Campo Santo retired to- 
wards his states. He put himself 
at the head of the army, wliich he 
conducted to them ; but the theatre 
of war was soon carried to the 
other extremity of Italy, and the 
king remained tranquil. 

Ferdinand VI, king of Spain, and 
ddest brother of the King of Naples, 
died in 1759. Charles HI being 
the heir, consigned the kingdom of 
Naples and SicUy to his third son, 
Ferdinand I, reserving the second 
for the Spanish throne (the eldest 
being incapable of reigning), and 
embarked for Spain on the 6th 
October, 1759. 

Ferdinand I governed his king- 
dom in peace for forty-seven years, 
when Napoleon Bonaparte, em- 



peror of the French, took possession 
of it in 1806, and gave it to his 
brother Joseph ; the latter having 
afterwards been removed to the 
throne of Spain, was replaced by 
Joachim Murat, the brother-in-law 
of Napoleon. In 1814, Napoleon 
having been driven from the throne 
of France, Francis H, emperor of 
Germany, recovered the kingdom 
of Naples by force of arms, and 
bestowed it on Ferdinand I, in whom 
the government was then vested 
again. At length, that monarch 
having died in the year 1825, he 
was succeeded by his heir and son, 
Francis I, who, after a short reign 
was succeeded by the present king, 
Ferdinand II. 



GENERAL VIEW OE NAPLES. 

It is almost imiversaUy allowed, 
that, after having seen Rome, there 
is nothing in any other place on 
earth which can excite the curiosity 
or deserve the attention of tra- 
vellers. Indeed, it may be truly 
asked, where, as a specimen of 
arcliitecture, shaU we find a build- 
ing capable of being compared to 
the cathedral of St Peter; an an- 
cient monument, more majestic 
than the Pantheon of Agrippa, or 
more superb than the Coliseum? 
Where shall we find so many an- 
cient chefs-d'oeuvre of sculpture, as 
in the museum of Pius Clementinus 
and the capitol, and in the villas 
Albani and Ludovisi? What paint- 
ings can rival those which may be 
seen in the porticoes, and the cham- 
bers painted by Raphael? 

The city of Naples certainly pre- 
sents nothing in architecture, in 
sculpture, or in painting, that can 
vie with the works of art just men- 
tioned; nevertheless, it is one of 
the most beautiful and most de- 
lightful cities on the habitable 
globe. Nothing more beautiful and 
unique can possibly be imagined 
than the coup-d'ceil of Naples, on 
Q 



766 



SOUTHEEN ITALY. — GENERAL VIEW OF NAPLES. 



whatever side the city is viewed. 
Naples is situated towards the 
south and east on the decUvity of 
a long range of hills, and encircling 
a gulf sixteen miles in breadth, and 
as many in length, which forms a 
basin, called Crater by the Neapo- 
litans. This gulf is terminated on 
each side by a cape; that on the 
right called the cape of Miseno ; 
the other, on the left, the cape of 
Massa. The island of Capri on one 
side, and that of Procida on the 
other, seem to close the gulf ; but 
between these islands and the two 
capes the view of the sea is un- 
limited. The city appears to crown 
this superb basin. One part rises 
towards the west in the form of an 
amphitheatre, on the hOls of Pau- 
siUppo, St Ermo, and Antignano; 
the other extends towards the east 
over a more level territory, in which 
villas follow each other in rapid 
succession, from the Magdalen 
bridge to Portici, where the king's 
palace is situated, and beyond that 
to Mount Vesuvius. It is the 
most beautiful prospect in the 
world, all travellers agreeing that 
this situation is unparalleled in 
beauty. 

The best position for viewing 
Naples is from the summit of Mount 
Ermo, an eminence which com- 
pletely overlooks the city. For 
this reason I am not surprised that 
the inhabitants of Naples, enrap- 
tured with the charms of the situa- 
tion, the mildness of the climate, 
the fertility of the country, the 
beauty of its environs, and the 
grandeur of its buildings, say in 
their language : " Vedi Napoli, e po 
mori," intimating that when Naples 
has been seen, everything has been 
seen. 

The volcanoes in the environs, 
the phenomena of nature, the dis- 
asters of which they have been the 
cause, the revolutions, the changes 
they daily occasion, the ruins of 
towns buried in their lava, the 



remains of places rendered famous 
by the accounts of celebrated his- 
torians, by the fables of the an- 
cients, and the writings of the 
greatest poets ; the vestiges of Greek 
and Roman magnificence ; and, 
lastly, the traces of towns of ancient 
renown; all conspire to render the 
coast of Naples and Pozzuoli the 
most curious and most interesting 
in Italy. 

On the northern side, Naples is 
surrounded by hills which form a 
kind of crown round the Terra di 
Lavoro, the Land of Labour. This 
consists of fertile and celebrated 
fields, called by the ancient Romans 
the "happy country," and con- 
sidered by them the richest and 
most beautiful in the universe. 
These fields are fertilized by a 
river called Sebeto, which descends 
from the hills on the side of Nola, 
and falls into the sea after having 
passed under Magdalen bridge, 
towards the eastern part of Naples. 
It was formerly a considerable 
river, but the great eruption of 
Mount Vesuvius in 79, made such 
an alteration at its source, that it 
entirely disappeared. Some time 
afterwards a part of it reappeared 
in the place which still preserves 
the name of Bulla, a kind of smaU 
lake, about six miles from Naples, 
whence the city is partly supplied 
with water. The Sebeto, vulgarly 
called Fornello, divides into two 
branches at the place called Casa 
deir acqua; part of it is conveyed 
to Naples by aqueducts, and the 
remainder is used for supplying 
baths and watering gardens. 

The city of Naples is weU sup- 
plied with aqueducts and fountains. 
There are two principal springs, 
the waters of which are distributed 
through the city. The aqueducts 
under the pavement of the streets 
are very broad ; they have twice 
been used at the capture of Naples, 
first by Belisarius, and afterwards 
by Alphonso I. 



SOUTHERN ITALY NAPLES. LANDING. 






NAPLES. 

Tt is supposed that the ancient 
town of Parthenope, or Neapolis, 
was situated in the highest and 
most northern part of the present 
town, between St. Agnello in Capo 
di JNapoli, and St. George, St. Mar- 
cellin, and St. Severin. It was di- 
vided into three great quarters or 
squares, called the Upper Square, 
Sun Square, and Moon Square ; it 
extended towards the place now 
occupied by the Viearia and the 
market- place. With respect to the 
other town, called Paleopolis, which, 
according to Diodorus Siculus, was 
founded by Hercules, and stood near 
this place, its situation is un- 
known. 

The city of Naples was formerly 
surrounded by very high walls, so 
that Haimibal was alarmed at them, 
and would not undertake to besiege 
the place. The city being destroyed, 
the walls were extended and rebuilt 
with greater magnificence. The 
city was afterwards enlarged, but 
neither walls nor gates were erected. 
Its present circumference is of 
twenty-two miles. Three strong 
castles may, however, be used for 
its defence ; these are the Castello 
dell Uovo, the New Castle, and 
that of St. Ermo. The Tower del 
Carmine, which has been converted 
. into a kind of fortress, is less used 
for the defence of the city than for 
the maintenance of subordination 
amongst the people. The harbour 
of Naples is likewise defended by 
some fortifications erected on the 
two moles. 

Naples is divided into twelve 
quarters, which are distinguished 
by the following appellations : St. 
Ferdinando, Chiaja, Monte Calva- 
rio, Avvocata, Stella, St. Carlo all' 
Arena, Yicaria, St. Lorenzo, St. 
Giuseppe Maggiore, Porto, Pendino, 
and Mercato. 

In 1838, Naples contained a po- 
pulation of 336,302 ; it now, in 1844, 



contains about 400,000 inhabitants, 
and is, consequently, the most popu- 
lous city in Europe, excepting Lon- 
don and Paris. Amongst these may 
be reckoned more than 40,000 Laz- 
zaroni, who are the most indigent 
part of the inhabitants; they go 
about the streets with a cap on 
their heads, and dressed in a shirt 
and trousers of coarse linen, but 
wearing neither shoes nor stock- 
ings. 

The streets are paved with broad 
slabs of hard stone, resembling the 
lava of Vesuvius ; the streets in 
general are neither broad nor regu- 
lar, except that of Toledo, which is 
the principal, is very broad and 
straight, and is nearly a mile in 
length. The squares are large and 
irregular, with the exception of those 
of the royal palace and of the Holy 
Ghost. 

The greater part of the houses, 
particularly in the principal streets, 
are uniformly built ; they are gene- 
rally about five or six stories in 
height, with balconies and flat roofs, 
in the form of terraces, which the 
inhabitants use as a promenade. 

Few of the public fountains are 
ornamented in an elegant style. The 
churches, the palaces, and all the 
other public buildings are magnifi- 
cent, and are richly ornamented ; 
but the architi^cture is not so beau- 
tiful, so majestic, nor so imposing as 
that of the edifices of Rome, and of 
many other places in Italy. 

Naples contains about 300 
churches, forty-eight of which are 
parochial. There are numerous 
palaces and other public buildings, 
amongst which are thirty-seven 
conservatories, established for the 
benefit of poor children and old peo- 
ple, both men and women ; there 
are also several hospitals and other 
humane establishments. 

LANDING. 

On the arrival of the steamer in 



768 



SOUTHERN ITALY. — NAPLES. HOTELS. 



the bay of Naples, a delay of an 
hour or an hour and a half takes 
place before the passengers are 
allowed to land ; during this inter- 
val an immense accumulation of 
boats for their service takes place, 
so that as soon as the police have 
ascertained that " all's right," your- 
self and luggage (if you have at- 
tended to my hint in the Intro- 
duction) will be deposited in the cus- 
tom house in a few minutes ; an 
examination of the luggage takes 
place; books are particularly no- 
ticed ; beware of taking seven or 
eight volumes of the Red Hand- 
Books ; if you do, you will be surely 
taken for a libraio, and be forced to 
fenter them as merchandise, and pay 
the duty — not on the books only, 
but for permission to exercise your 
calling in Naples. As soon as your 
luggage is examined, call una vet- 
tura da nolo (hackney carriage), 
and be conveyed to your hotel : 
fare for two persons, 3 pauls ; boat- 
age, each person, with luggage^ 1^ 
to 2 pauls. 

N.B. — From the moment you land 
till you quit Naples, always carry 
your handkerchief in your hat, 
your purse in your breast-pocket, 
and your watch well secured with 
a strong guard : the pickpockets in 
Naples are the most expert in 
Europe. 

Hotels. — Hotel Victoria. This is 
a large, delightfully-situated estab- 
lishment, overlooking the bay on 
one side, and the Villa Heale (royal 
gardens) on the other. The apart- 
ments are elegantly furnished, or- 
namented with many choice and 
rare Chinese gems, and a collection 
of ancient paintings that have been 
valued at 15,000^. sterling. The 
arrangements for the service of the 
families staying in the house are 
excellent : on e?ich etcige is a kitchen, 
and a suitable number of attendants. 
This hotel was established in 1823, 
by the late M. Martin Zir, and is 



now admirably conducted by his 
sons. Those who delight in exqui- 
site paintings by some of the first 
artists, should desire to see tho 
private apartments of the pro- 
prietors. 

Hotel Crocelle^ facing the bay; 
report speaks highly of this house, 
as being a first-rate hotel. Very 
comfortable, with every attention. 

Hotel des Etrangers, also front- 
ing the bay ; a snug, quiet, comfort- 
able, clean house, well conducted by 
a new proprietor, who pays every 
attention to his visitors. 

Hotel Grande Bretagne, beauti- 
fully situated, facing the Villa Reale ; 
comfortable and well managed. 

There are also the Hotel York., 
Hotel Rome, Hotel Russie, Hotel 
Geneva ; these are second and third 
rate. 

The charges at the best hotels 
are generally as follows : — Break- 
fast of tea or coffee, with bread and 
butter, 3 pauls ; with eggs, 5 pauls ; 
with meat, 8 pauls. As there is no 
table d'hote at any of the hotels, a 
dinner in a private apartment will 
cost from 10 to 12 pauls; tea, 3 
pauls. Sitting and bed rooms are 
charged according to the situation, 
accommodation required, and more 
particularly the season of the 
year. 

Passports. — On arrival at Na- 
ples the passports are taken to the 
police office, and a printed paper 
given to the owner; by presenting 
this at the office previous to leaving 
(if within fourteen days), the pass- 
port will be returned ; it must then 
be signed ' by the English minister ; 
afterwards by the Neapolitan 
minister for foreign affairs ; and 
lastly, by the consul pf the country 
you next intend to visit. If Mar- 
seilles, the French ; Genoa, the 
Sardinian ; Bome, the Pope's Nun- 
cio ; Leghorn, the Tuscan. To visit 
the island of Capri, a passport is not 
now nece'-sary. 



SOUTHERN ITALY. — NAPLES. 



768a 



FSES FOB SIGNING. 





Grana. 


Police 


. 52 


Foreign ASairi . . 


. 120 


Pope's Nuncio 


. 60 


French 


. 70 


Sardinian . 


. 96 


Tuscan 


. 60 


Steam-packet Agent 


. 30 



The English minister gives his 
signature gratis. The usual fee to 
the commissioner for getting the sig- 
natures is about one piaster. 

Post office, opposite the entrance 
to the Castello Nuovo, is open daily 
from nine till twelve, and from 
three till eight. Letters leave, via 
Rome, five times a week — Tuesdays, 
Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays, 
and Saturdays : and direct for 
France and England, via Marseilles, 
twice a week, saving four days 
(with favourable weather) between 
London and Naples ; inquiry should 
be made as to the exact days. Let- 
ters by land must be paid, by steam 
it is not necessary ; a letter by land 
takes fourteen days between Naples 
and England, 

Apartments in the season are very 
expensive. In the lodging houses 
opposite the ViliaReale a small suite 
offourorfive rooms will cost from 
50 to 100 piasters the month, in- 
crea.sing in price according to the 
number of rooms, &c. 

Reading room, a very comfortable 
well-conducted establishment, plea- 
santly situated opposite the Villa 
Reale, where several English and 
foreign papers maybe read, either by 
the fortnight, month, or year. The 
mistress of the establishment is an 
English lady, has resided many 
years in the country, and is always 
most happy to give valuable infor- 
mation to families about to reside in 
Naples. 

English chur?h is attached to the 
English consul's, and neatly fitted 
up with pews, gallery, and organ, 
and will hold about 400 persons ; the 
appointed minister is Mr. Pughe. 
Service takes place every Sunday at 



eleven in the morning, and three in 
the afternoon.. 

English doctors y there are several 
in Naples ; also an eminent English 
surgeon, Mr. Roskilly, who has re- 
sided in Naples for these last thirty 
years, and therefore well calculated 
to give valuable medical advice. 

Provisions. ■^-T\x<d Neapolitan table 
is deservedly reputed, and is the 
subject of II Cuoco Galante, by 
Don Vincent Corrado, a Celestine 
monk. 

The macaroni of Amalfi is deemed 
the best of the kmgdom. The 
lasagne, a sort of hard, flat maca- 
roni, is so called from its ribbon- 
like appearance, Raviuoli, made of 
flour and eggs ; good beef ; excel- 
lent veal and pork from Sorrento ; 
exquisite beccafichi ; quails from 
Capri. 

The sole (palaja) is the best fish 
of the bay. At Christmas the eel 
forms a national dish, which under 
the name capitone is then served at 
the table of the most frugal lazza- 
roni. A few days before this epoch 
several ship-loads of large, fat eels 
arrive at Naples from the Pontine 
marshes, the valley of Comacchio, 
and from Bigugliain Corsica. 

The polipore tuberastre, the most 
celebrated mushroom of Italy, grows 
in the vicinity of Naples ; its root, 
picturesquely called mushroom stone 
(pietra fungaia), is exported, to 
treat other covmtries with its fine, 
delicate, and aromatic fruit. In 
Naples it is cut in small slices, first 
boiled in milk, and afterwards fried 
in butter or oil. 

The truffles of the neighbourhood, 
impregnated with the volcanic fires 
of Vesuvius ard of the Solfatare, have 
a sulphureous, disagreeable taste. 
This soil, although fatal to truffle.s, 
singularly favours the growth of all 
vegetables, so much so, that green 
ptas may be had immediately after 
Christmas. 

Excellent cheese, called caeio 
cavallo, deemed the best of Italy. 



(68^ 



SOUTHERN ITALY.— NAPLES. 



Lalande considered thia cheese to 
be made of mare's milk, probably 
from its name, and thence drew oc- 
casion to lecture on the savage bar- 
barity of the Neapolitan people. It 
is said that the cacio cavallo is so 
called from its being hung across 
sticks to dry. 

Excellent pastry. Zeppole, fritters 
made of batter fried in oil, and co- 
vered with honey or with sugar, have 
happily inspired Sig. deEitis, a poet 
in the Neapolitan dialect. The pizza, 
a popular cake made of preserves or 
of new cheese, is not disdained by 
the higher classes. 

Delicious small fresh figs ; Sor- 
rento oranges ; exquisite small China 
oranges, called mandarini, arrive 
from Palermo about the end of 
January. 

Santa Brigita is noted for its 
fruit, sold by the pound, and very 
cheap. 

The celebrated Fusaro oysters 
should be eaten on the spot. There 
is a very pretty casino, built by 
Ferdinand I. in the middle of the 
lake, where one may beregfiled with 
these large white oysters, so very 
different from the small, stale things 
sold in the Neapolitan eating houses, 
at 16 gr. (14 sous) a dozen. Fusaro, 
from this oyster treat, is an agree- 
able halting place for those who 
visit the antiquities of the coast of 
Baia. 

The small shell iish (frutti di 
mare) of Santa Lucia are justly ce- 
lebrated. The populace regale them- 
selves with the sea spider (pulpo), 
the cuttle fish, called the inkstand 
(calamarello), from a black liquid it 
throws out to escape its enemy's pur- 
suit, mussels, &c. ; whilst the frutti 
sought for by more delicate palates 
are the ancine, the cannolichi, and, 
above all, the vongole ; this last is 
excellent in soups, or mixed with 
macaroni and butter. 

Wines. — An cenologic society, si- 
milar to that of many other Italian 
cities, has been lately established at 



Naples; the results it has already.^, ^ 
obtained, in the amelioration as well"' 
as in the greater sale of their home- 
made wines, are very satisfactory. 
White wines from Ischia and Capri. 
Lachryma Christi,. produced on the 
ashes of Vesuvius. 

The wine of Posilippo is excel- 
lent. Tassohas celebrated it in that 
sonnet, 

"Premail bel Pausilippo, e quel ch' 
asconde." 

where he begs some from AlphonsoII. 
who graciously sent him a cask. 
These wines, honoured by so manyu':! 
great poets, do not cost more at a'Jd 
good vintner's than a cariin ay^ 
bottle. ?J> 

The large hotels of Naples are>'i? 
very expensive. The dinner seldom "i? 
costs less than 12 earlini, and tkj&~iq 
breakfast from 5 to 6 earlini. Do- 
mestic, 6 earlini a head per day 

In some private houses an apart'-- . ' 
ment of two or three rooms, with twol:^ 
meals a day, may be met with for 
100 frs. a month. An agreement may 
also be made with a cook. Pro- 
visions are plentiful and cheap. 

Vetturini, — Coaches are hired for 
8 ducats a day, 18 earlini for half a 
day, 3 earlini per hour, and 24 
granas a course ; but, by a bargaiiiy~* 
these Neapolitan coachmen, the 
sharpest of Italy, may be made to 
work for 2 earlini, and even 15 
granas a course, if it he not too- 
long. 

The following is the tariflF of fare» 
for the environs : — "^ ' 

ducats, granas. 
Acalesseandfour, perday 4 — 

Ditto two . .2 40 

A cabriolet (corricolo) . 1 60 

Omnibuses. — The principal line 
lies from Villa Reale to the Seraglio, 
passing through Via Toledo ; the 
fare is 6 granas. These omni- 
buses are generally avoided by the 
ladies; this must also render them 
rather suspicious to persons who 
may happen to possess a too sen- 



SOUTHERN ITALY. — NAPLES. 



76Bc 



sible epidermis. These accidents, 
however, are not peculiar to the 
omnibus ; they may not be better 
escaped in the light economical cor- 
ricolo, neither in the calesse, nor even 
on foot, as, during summer, fleas 
spring about even in the middle of 
the street. Strangers will in time 
get used to them. 

The Railroad, which seems to have 
been constructed for the amusement 
of the elegant world and for the pro- 
prietors of the neighbouring villas 
(the king usually went to Portici by 
it), begins to be truly useful and to 
benefit the working classes. The 
numerous artisans of Torre del 
Greco, who work at Naples, for- 
merly lived wiih their families but 
from the Saturday to the Monday, 
passing the whole week exposed to 
the gross dissipation of the capital; 
but now, for a few granas, they re- 
turn every evening, and re- depart 
the next morning. Trains leave for 
Casteilamare at seven, nine, half- 
past ten, twelve, half-past one, three, 
four and five. To Pompeia, seven, 
nine, twelve, three, and five ; for 
fares, see page 391. 

Steam-boats. — Naples to Mar- j 
seilles iu four days, touching at Ci vita j 
Vecchia, Leghorn and Genoa. They 
leave on the 1st, 3rd, 4th, 7th, lOth, 
ilth, 13th, 14th, 17th, 21st, 23rd, 
24th, and 27th, of each month. To 
Malta, on the 8th, 18th, and 28th, 
by the boat belonging to the com- 
pany of the Two Sicilies. 





1st cabin. 


2nd. 


The fare for the whole fr. 


fi-. 


distance is 


180 


120 


To Civita Vecchia 


55 


35 


— Leghorn 


100 


69 


— Genoa . 


125 


85 


— Malta . 


87 


58 



week, in thirty-six hours ; fares, 10 
scudi 75 bajocchi, and 11 scndi 35 
bajocchi. 

Restaurateurs. — L' Albergo RealCj 
Piazza del Palazzo ; La Ville de 
Paris, Scrada Toledo ; L^Hotel de 
Ro7ne, at Santa Lucia. These eat- 
ing houses, a la Fran^aise, furnish 
good repasts, a pasto, for four car- 
lini. I'he Hotel de Milan and La 
Corona di Ferro, largo del Castello, 
are also tolerably good. The Rmne 
is the best. 



Children under ten years of age 
pay half price ; servants half the 
price of second cabin. 

Diligences to Rome five times a 



Cafes. — The Cafe Donzelli, Cafe 
de P Europe, and Cafe Benvenuto. 

A cup of coffee costs 5 granas ; 
a glass of cognac, 4 granas. 

Ices. — The Neapolitan bombe, a 
large round ice, is one of the best ; 
iced chocolates, called mattoni 
(bricks), from their form and colour. 
Naples is celebrated for painters, 
sculptors, restorers and picture- 
cleaners, views of Naples and of the 
eruptions of Vesuvius, Neapolitan 
costumes, lavas and coral, harp and 
violin strings, goldsmiths (making 
ornaments a Vantique, imitating 
those of Herculaneum and Pompeii), 
tortoise-shell boxes, rings, <fec., per- 
fumery, and the celebrated shaving- 
soap. 

The gloves of Naples are de- 
servedly reputed, and only cost from 
15 to 25 granas a pair. 

The convents of Naples merit 
notice for their different rosolios 
and sweetmeats (dolci). 

Large boxes of dolci, highly orna- 
mented, are sent every year, at 
Christmas and at the principal holi- 
days, to relations, confessors, &e. 
The biscuit called pane di Spagna, 
and the raviuoli of Santa Chiara, 
the mustacciuoli, made of chocolate, 
almonds, and spices ; the pastiera, 
oatmeal tart, and the struffolo, 
another chocolate cake, are excellent. 
The Neapolitan chocolate is good. 

Cigars. — The best tobacco and 
the finest cigars are found at the 



768^; 



SOUTHERN ITALY. — NAPLES- 



Spaecio di Eccezione. near the Cafe 
Donzelli. 

Baths. — Vico belle donne, largo 
del Castello ; a "bath, with linen, 
costs two earlini. 

PRICES OF PROVISIONS. 

Bread, per lb. 7 grana. 
Beef, per lb. "20 to 26 grana. 
Mutton, per lb. 14 to 16 grana. 



Veal, per lb. 30 to 36 grana. 

Game, particularly quails, very cheap. 

Fish, small, not very cheap. 

Vegetables plentiful and cheap. 

Butter, per lb. 30 to 46 grana. 

Eggs, per doz. 12 to 24 grana. 

Tea, per lb. 12 to 18 earlini. 

Coffee, per lb. 3 carlini- 

Sugar, per lb. 4 earlini. 

Wax candles, per lb. 3^ to 5 earlini. 

Firing plentiful and coals cheap. 

N.B. The Neapolitan pound weight 1? 
only twelve English ounces. 



NAPLES. — FIRST DAY. VILLA REALE. 



769 



FIRST DAY 



VILLA BEALE 



Consists of a magnificent garden, 
shut in between houses and the sea 
beach, among which 
newly-erected palaces, 
is, through its whole length, sepa- 
rated from the street by an iron rail- 
ing ; there is a gate at its entrance, 
where a beautiful walk begins, lead- 
ing in a straight line to the Toro 
Farnese, and thence through wind- 
ing paths to the extremity of the 
villa. This walk, as far as the Toro 
Farnese, is planted on each side 
with acacias, which from the month 
of May to the end of summer fur- 
nish it with the most pleasant shades. 
Several other works traverse the 
garden on both sides. On the left 
a row of holm trees defends it from 
the south-west wind, which, from 
the position of the villa, might prove 
extremely injurious to it. The first 
part of the garden is regularly 
planted in the Italian way, and or- 
namented with parterres of flowers, 
fountains, and statues ; farther on it 
resembles more an English garden, 
or little park. 

The first statue on the right side 
of the entrance is an imitation of the 
celebrated Apollo in the gallery of 
Florence. At the beginning of the 
central walk there are 

Two statues of warriors, one on 
the right and the other on the left 
side ; they are larger than life, and 
the former holds on its left shoulder 
a child hanging with its head down- 
wards ; further on, on the same side, 
is the statue of a young shepherd, 
and rext to this 

The Dying Gladiator: it seems 
to have been copied from that which 
is in the Capitoline Museum. A 
sword and a trumpet lie upon the 
ground, whereon he is represented 



as leaning in his agony. Opposite 
to this stands 

The statue of an old man bring- 
ing to his mouth a child that lies 
supine in his hands: the trunk, to 
which the statue is attached, is sur- 
rounded with a serpent having claws 
and a head like a goat. A little 
are several further, on the same side, there is 
The garden a fountain, from the middle of which 



rise 

Two statues representing two men, 
one of whom is hardly adult, and 
shorter than the other. The latter 
stretches forth both his arms to the 
former, and looks at him with the 
countenance of a man advising a 
youth. The boy has his eyes lifted 
up to him, and seems to be quite 
anxious to seize his expressions. The 
unspeakable ingenuousness breathing 
through the countenance of the 
youth renders this a most remarkable 
statue. 

Opposite these two statues, on the 
other side of the central walk, and 
rising likewise from the middle of a 
fountain, stands 

A group representing two men, 
one of whom has just lifted up the 
other, and is endeavouring to crush 
him between his breasts and, arms. 
The person raised labours to extri- 
cate himself by strongly pressing 
his hand upon the other's temple. 
A club, and a lion's skin sculptured 
upon the plinth, seem to indicate 
that the principal statue is a Her- 
cules. Somewhat farther, in the 
same direction, is 

The pugilist, or boxer, a most 
animated statue of a man, having 
his left arm raised in the attitude of 
defending himself against his adver- 
sary, and preparing with the right 
arm to deliver a tremendous blow. 
Opposite this stands 

The statue of a handsome youth, 
with his right arm turned over his 
head, and the left leaning upon a 
trunk. A quiver full of arrows hangs 
from the latter, to which it is nicelv 



770 



SOUTHERN ITALY. — NAPLES. FIRST DAY. 



tied uith a ribbon. The statue seems 
to represent an Endj'mion reposing. 
The next after this stands on the 
opposite side, and is 

A statue of young Bacchus, hav- 
ing his right arm raised, with a 
bunch of grapes hanging from his 
hand. His left arm holds a vase 
close to his side, and full of apples, 
pine-apples, and grapes. A goat- 
skin hangs from his neck and 
shoulder, descending to the plinth. 

At a short distance from this little 
statue there is a circle, intended to 
form the resting place of the pro- 
menade, and furnished with marble 
seats. In the centre formerly stood, 
but now in the Musee E-oyale, the 
famous group called 

Toro Farnese (the bull of Far- 
nese). It was found at Rome, in 
the baths of Caracalla, under the 
pontificate of Paul III., who placed 
it in his Farnese palace, whence 
about the end of the seventeenth 
century, it was conveyed to this 
city. Apollonius and Tauriscus, 
two Grecian sculptors executed this 
group from a single block of marble, 
nine feet eight inches in length, and 
thirteen feet high. The subject of 
this fine specimen of sculpture is 
Dirce attached by the hair to the 
horns of a bull, by Zetus and Am- 
phyon, sonsofLycus, king of Thebes, 
to avenge the affront offered to their 
mother Antiope by her husband, on 
account of Dirc^ ; but at the moment 
the bull is loosed, Queen Antiope 
orders Dirce to be freed, and her two 
sons immediately attempt to stop the 
furious animal. These figures are 
larger than life, and are placed on a 
rock ; at the base is a small Bacchus 
and a dog, and around the plinth 
several different animals are repre- 
sented. 

Re-enter the central walk, at the 
beginning of which, on the right, is 

A group of Pluto carrying away 
Proserpine. He grasps her with 
the whole strength of his arm. She 



has her eyes and right arm lifted 
up to heaven, while tearing her 
hair with her left hand in despair. 
Upon the base, Cerberus is repre- 
sented. Beyond, on the same side, 
stands 

The statue of a young man, 
with a fine drapery folded up on 
his shoulder and arm ; and opposite 
this 

The statue of Alcides tearing 
asunder the mouth of a lion over- 
thrown. While the hero is thus em- 
ploying his hands, his knee is vigor- 
ously exerted to compress the animal. 
Following the walk, we shall find, 
on the same side, 

A group representitg a man who 
holds a girl within his arms. Ano- 
ther man is carved under the two 
statues, sitting in the attitude of a 
conquered person, and looking up to 
the girl, with his left hand equally 
raised to express regret and admira- 
tion. Apposite is another 

Group representing two naked 
young men crowned with laurel. 
The one on the left leans with his 
arm upon the other's shonlder, and 
the latter holds two flambeaux in 
his hands, the one lifted up on his 
shoulder, and the other reversed. 
They seem to represent Pilades 
and Orestes. Along the same walk 
we find 

The statue of a young man 
playing on the flute, A lion's skin 
hangs over his left arm. On the 
opposite side is 

The statue of a Faun playing the 
castanets. A musical apparatus lies 
under his right foot, by which he 
presses it to mark, as it seems, the 
measure. Farther on, still on the 
same side, there is 

The statue of a Satyr tied to the 
trunk of a tree. 

Before we reach another area 
opening in the central walk, we 
meet with 

Two statues standing in front of 
each other. That on the left repr 



NAPLES. — FIRST DAT. CHURCHES. 



771 



sents at Warrior holding a child with 
His head downwards upon his 
shoulder. The other is a Hercules 
with a lion's skin hanging from his 
left side, and a child, which he holds 
close to his breast. His right hand 
holds the club. 

Here the bushy part of the viUa 
begins, in which several other va- 
luable marbles are found, as on the 
left. 

A handsome statue of a Woman, 
attired, holding a crown of flowers 
in her left hand. A little farther, 
on the other side, a small temple is 
building, in which will be placed a 
marble statue, or bust of Virgil. 
Then, turning to the left, we dis- 
cover 

A group representing Europa 
carried away by Jupiter under the 
form of a bull. It lies in the centre of 
a fine fountain made of unwrought 
lava, and is the work of a Neapo- 
litan sculptor still alive (Angelo 
Viva), who made it in the year 
1798. It was at first placed by a 
fountain, near the market place, 
whence its merits being recognized, 
it has been removed to its present 
situation. The airy mantle of the 
woman, which rises in the manner 
of a bow over her head, and the 
posture of the buU, which, with his 
muzzle turned up, looks at Europa 
while pursuing his wa.tery course, 
are perfectly well contrived to give 
the whole work a hghtness and 
motion admirably adapted to the 
subject. Farther on, but on the 
other side of the way, there is 

The statue of Flora crowned with 
flowers, and holding some in her 
left hand. 

We must now cross again the 
walk to see a modern cupola sup- 
ported by eight white columns, 
resting upon a circular base cut 
into three steps. This cupola has 
been erected lately to the memory 
of Tasso, a bust of whom in marble 
is to be seen under it. 

Before leaving the villa the tra- 



veller may enjoy, almost at the 
water's edge, a fine sight of the 
greater part of the bay by going on 
the terrace, where people go and 
rest after traversmg those long 
walks. 

The Aolla is completely and bril- 
liantly illuminated at one o'clock in 
the evening, during two of the 
summer months. It is almost im- 
possible to form an idea of the plea- 
sure aflbrded by the view of such 
a beautiful scene, accompanied by 
music and a numerous company. 
Coflee houses and dining and bil- 
liard rooms are found at the entrance 
of the garden. There are also baths, 
both cold and warm, contiguous to 
a coffee house about the middle of 
the promenade. 

Returning to the Larga St Fer- 
dinand to 

The Church of St Francis ( Chiesa 
de St Francesco). — It is situated 
upon the Piazza Reale, erected in 
consequence of a vow of the late 
king Ferdinand I. It is built after 
a design by M. Bianchi, a living 
architect. Its foundations were 
laid towards the middle of the year 
1817; finished in 1833. This is 
not a single church, though it bears 
but one title. They are three, se- 
parate in all respects from each 
other, but having an internal com- 
munication, by means of which, on 
extraordinary occasion s,divuie ser- 
vice may be performed by the clergy 
of all three, united in the principal 
one. This has been constructed in 
the form of the Pantheon, and its 
rotunda is nearly as large as that 
of that ancient temple. Amongst 
the modern cupolas it wiU be ranked 
as the third, being next in size to 
those of St Peter's, and St Maria 
del Fiore's at Florence. It exceeds 
by nearly twelve feet the dome of 
St Paul's in London. The two 
lateral cupolas are those of the 
minor churches. 

A truly magnificent arched front 
stands before the grand church ; it. 



772 



SOUTHERN ITALY. — NAPLES. FIRST DAY. 



is of the Ionic order, surmounted by 
tliree colossal statues, representing 
Keligion, St Francis, and St Louis, 
king of France, and supported by 
ten columns, and four pilasters, 
the diameter of which is scarcely 
less by one inch than the admired 
columns of the Pantheon. The 
whole is composed of large blocks 
of Carrara marble. The front is 
flanked by a double range of co- 
lumns, forty-four in number, and 
as many pilasters, forming alto- 
gether a semi-circular portico of the 
Doric order. These colunms, as 
well as the pilasters, are of lava 
taken from the hills which sur- 
round the Solfatara at Pozzuoli. 
The chord of the portico measures 
500 feet, which is the whole length 
of the piazza. Its freizes and the 
capitals have been made of the 
calcareous stone which is found in 
the Monte di Gaeta, of an agreeable 
yellowish colour, and it is commonly, 
though improperly, called Traver- 
tino. They have covered with the 
same stone the drum of the rotunda 
and the two lateral domes. 

Marble statues corresponding in 
number to the columns beneath are 
to be placed upon the portico. Se- 
veral of them are already placed 
at the two extremities : they repre- 
sent as many Christian virtues. 
Both the portico and the front 
stand upon several ranges of 
steps. The total height of the 
Kotunda is equal to that of the 
Pantheon, and its diameter is but 
little less than that of the latter. 

Two equestrian statues of bronze, 
the one representing Charles III, 
and the other Ferdinand I, are 
erected at a small distance from 
the front. The former, and the 
horse of the latter, are the work of 
the celebrated Canova. 

The inside of the three churches 
is decorated with statues and pic- 
tures by the first Italian artists 
now living. 

Immediately opposite is 



The Royal Palace. — The ancient 
kings of Naples inhabited the castle 
called Castel Capuano, now deno- 
minated la Vicaria ; they after- 
wards resided in the New Castle, 
and sometimes in the Castello dell' 
Uovo, where Alphonso III, of Arra- 
gon, died in 1458. Peter of Toledo, 
the viceroy under Charles V, was 
the first who undertook to build a 
palace for the residence of the 
sovereign: he constructed the edi- 
fice now called the Old Palace, 
which adjoins the theatre of St 
Charles, and communicates with 
the New Castle. In this Charles V 
resided ; and on the gate may still 
be seen the eagle with two heads. 

Count Lemos, who was viceroy 
of Naples in 1600, added the large 
building, which is now the residence 
of the court. Chevalier Dominic 
Fontana, a Eoman, was the archi- 
tect employed on this beautiful 
palace. The front, which is about 
455 feet in length, displays three 
orders of architecture, ornamented 
with Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian 
pilasters. In the first order are 
three large entrances; that in the 
centre is furnished with four beau- 
tiful granite columns, supporting a 
balcony; the others have only two. 
In the second and third order, 
which form two apartments, are 
forty -two windows or casements. 
The whole building is surmounted 
by a magnificent entablature, above 
which is a steeple, containing a 
clock. The court is surrounded by 
two rows of piazzas, one above 
another: the commmiication with 
these is formed by a superb, com- 
modious, and broad staircase, orna- 
mented with two colossal figures of 
the Ebro and Tagus. 

In this palace are large and 
beautiful apartments, ornamented 
with rich furniture, frescoes, and 
several pictures, by good masters. 
Among the latter are the Death of 
Caesar, and the Death of Virginia, 
both by the Chevalier Camuccinij a 



NAPLES. — FinST DAY. THEATRES. 



773 



portrait of the late King Ferdinand, 
by the same author 5 Rebecca with 
the Servant of Abraham, by Erancis 
Albano ; the Circumcision of our 
Saviour, by an unknown author, of 
the Venetian school ; the Holy 
Virgin appearing to four Saints, 
with God the Father above her, 
by Raphael ; Orpheus, by Michael 
Angelo of Caravaggio ; the Three 
Cardmal Virtues, a copy from 
Raphael, by Hannibal Caracci ; 
our Saviour disputing with the 
Doctors, by Michael Angelo of 
Caravaggio ; and a portrait of the 
Duchess of Orleans, by Gerard. 

The apartments just spoken of 
are those which were occupied by 
the late king, and the pictures 
which they still contain render 
them the most interesting part of 
the palace. The chapel, which is 
remarkably magnificent, is orna- 
mented with marbles, and painted 
by James del Po. The beautiful 
statue of the Conception is by 
Chevalier Cosmo Fansaga. 

A terrace, paved with marble, 
extends the whole length of the 
palace, and commands a fine view 
of the sea. A communication be- 
tween this part of the palace and 
the dock has been formed by means 
of a covered bridge, by which the 
king passes when he wishes to 
enjoy the sea. On the right side 
of this palace, and near the old 
palace, is the 

Theatre of St Carlo. — The gran- 
deur and beauty of this theatre 
combme to render it the most 
remarkable in Italy. It was built 
by Charles IH in 1737, after a 
design by Ametrano, which was 
executed by Angelo Caresale in 
270 days. The accidental fire in 
1815 having greatly injured this 
theatre, it has been almost entirely 
rebuilt under the direction of Nico- 
.'iani, the architect. 

This building is 144 feet m 
breadth and 288 in length, exclu- 
sive of the front, which bears the 



names of the most celebrated Italian 
composers and dramatic poets, and 
is ornamented with columns and 
statues. The staircases are com- 
modious, and its corridors very 
extensive ; the pit is eighty-four 
feet in length and seventy-five in 
breadth ; the stage is 105 feet in 
length and fifty-three in breadth. 
The theatre contains six tiers of 
boxes : the first, second, fifth, and 
sixth consist of thirty boxes each, 
and the third and fourth of thirty- 
two ; these boxes are large, each 
being capable of containing twelve 
persons.' 

Besides this theatre there is the 
Teatro deUa Fenice, and that of 
San Carlino, both situated in the 
square of the New Castle, and fre - 
quented by the lower classes. The 
theatre called Del Fondo is a very 
neat modern building, of moderate 
size ; it is situated near the mole. 

The Teatro Nuovo is situated 
near the street of Toledo. The 
theatre of the Florentines is on the 
opposite side of the street of Toledo, 
close to the church of St John of 
the Florentines, from which it 
derived its name, and which was 
rebuilt in a modern style in 1779. 
This theatre contains five tiers, each 
composed of seventeen boxes ; the 
pieces performed there are comic 
operas, comedies, and tragedies. 

The theatre of St Ferdinand, 
situated at the Ponte Nuovo, is the 
largest in Naples, except that of St 
Charles. Proceeding to the right 
from the theatre of St Charles, we 
arrive at the 

Square of the New Castle. — It 
presents itself at first in the form 
of an oblong square, surrounded on 
three sides with houses and palaces, 
among which the newly-erected 
one, called Delle Finanze, is the 
most remarkable. The fourth side 
is formed by a wall extending as 
far as the Great Guard House, and 
in which a fountain may be ob- 
1 served, called Degli Speech! (the 
Q 2 



774 SOUTHERN ITALY. — NAPLES. FIRST t)At. CASTEL NtJOYO. 



fonntain of mirrors), as its waters, 
descending like a little cascade, 
are received in several basins, 
which may be compared to as 
many mirrors. The square is now 
planted with trees, but it is said 
that, in order to give light to the 
new palace, Delle Finanze, these 
plants will be uprooted. From its 
first level downwards the square 
continues to the mole, and on its 
left side a stupendous fountain pre- 
sents itself to the view of the 
traveller ; it is called Fontana 
Medina, and consists of a large 
basin, from the centre of which 
rise four satyrs bearing a large 
marine shell, above which are four 
sea-horses supporting a Neptune, 
who, with the three points of the 
trident, which he holds in his hand, 
is throwing up water. This foun- 
tain, which is the finest in Naples, 
was made in the time of Coimt 
Olivares, and first placed, by order 
of the viceroys, at the arsenal, 
afterwards on the sea-shore, and 
lastly, was removed to its present 
situation by Duke Medina de las 
Torres, from whom it took its 
name, and by whose order the lions 
and other exterior ornaments were 
executed, from the designs of Che- 
valier Fansaga. 

It was upon this square, and 
under a great number of sheds, 
that once lived the lazzaroni, who 
are now dispersed through the 
several quarters of the city, es- 
pecially along the Molo piccolo 
towards the Ponte deUa Maddalena. 

Near the mole, on the left side, 
is the post office and the theatre 
Del Fondo. On the right side, 
opposite to these buildings, rises the 

Castel Nuovo. — This fortress is 
partly situated on the sea-shore, 
opposite the mole, to which it 
serves as a defence. Its public 
entrance is through a small bridge 
joined with a drawbridge ; and 
from the inscription placed over 
the gate it appears that this 



castle was originally built by 
Charles I of Anjou, in the year 
1283, and repaired in 1823 by the 
late King Ferdinand 1= The designs 
of the first building, which consisted 
of the middle mass and the little 
towers with which it was sur- 
rounded, were the work of Joh 
Pisano ; and Charles established 
his residence there, removing 
from the Castle Capuano, which 
was not considered as sufficiently 
secure. 

The exterior fortifications which 
surround it, and form a square of 
nearly 200 toises, were conunenced 
by Alphonso I of Arragon, about 
the year 1500 ; they were continued 
by Gonzalvo of Cordova, and 
finished, about the year 1546, by 
Peter of Toledo, who likewise added 
two large bastions. 

Beyond the first fortifications of 
this castle, between two towers, is 
the triumphal arch, erected by the 
inhabitants of Naples at the time 
of King Alphonso's entry ; the 
whole is of marble, and is orna- 
mented with many statues and 
bas-reliefs tolerably well execut- 
ed, and representing the actions 
of that king. This work is the 
production of Chevalier Peter de 
Martino, of Milan, who was the 
architect of King Alphonso. This 
monument is curious, in reference 
to the history of the arts, as few 
specimens of the architecture of 
this age are to be found in any part 
of Europe. 

Near this arch is a bronze 
gate, ornamented with bas-reliefs, 
representing the exploits of King 
Ferdinand I of Arragon. A gun- 
shot is confined in one of its folds ; 
it was fired from within the castle, 
and could not pierce the gate, 
though it produced a triple cleft in 
it. Over the internal arch a stufied 
crocodile is seen, about six feet in 
length, which according to tradition 
was found and taken in a subterra- 
neous prison of the castle, after he 



NAPLES.— FIRST DAY. PALACE OP FINANCE. 



775 



had devoured there several pri- 
soners. The arch leads into the 
Place d'Armes, in which is the 
Church of St Barbe, ornamented 
with marbles and paintings. A well 
is shown near this church, contain- 
ing the water reserved in case of a 
siege. Mounting afterwards a flight 
of stairs, we enter the armoury, which 
is yet unfinished. The room was 
formerly a theatre belonging to the 
court, and two royal boxes may 
stiU be seen carved into the wall. 
It was Ferdinand I who ordered 
that an armoury should be formed 
there, capable of containing arms 
for 60,000 soldiers. 

A gaUery passing under arches 
forms an internal communication 
between this castle and the royal 
palace, which might be made use of 
as a retreat in case of any public 
commotion. This castle has also 
an arsenal, a cannon foundry, artil- 
lery schools, barracks, apartments 
for the officers, &c. In one part of 
the castle may be seen several large 
pieces of artillery, bearing the arms 
of the Duke of Saxony, which were 
taken by Charles V. As this build- 
ing was formerly the residence of 
sovereigns, it is not surprising that 
it contains many monuments, and 
displays an air of grandeur not 
often seen in ordinary fortresses. 
It is capable of containing a gar- 
rison of 3,000 men. Near the waUs 
of this castle is the 

Harbour of Naples. — This is of a 
square form, about 150 toises in 
length and breadth, including a 
space of about 600 square toises ; 
it is defended by a great mole, 
which closes it on the west and 
south. This mole was constructed 
by Charles 11 of Anjou, in 1302, 
and afterwards augmented by Al- 
phonso I of Arragon ; it, however, 
received its last improvement from 
Charles III, who, in 1740, extended 
it 250 feet towards the east, and 
thus defended the harbour from the 
south-east winds. The lighthouse 



was rebuilt in 1646. The prome- 
nade along this mole is extremely 
dehghtful, and is very much fre- 
quented. 

This harbour is small, and is not 
capable of containing more than 
four ships of eighty guns, with 
frigates, tartanes, and other small 
vessels ; but the road, between the 
dock and the CasteUo deU' Uovo, is 
very extensive, and is a very fa- 
vourable situation for the formation 
of a harbour. 

Eeturning to the square of the 
new castle apx^ears the 

Palace of Finance. — This was an 
ancient building, which compre- 
hended the bank of Naples and a 
hospital dependent on the church 
of St James degli Spagnuoli. It 
has been rebuilt, and reduced to its 
present form and use, after designs 
by M. Gass, a living architect. The 
repairs were commenced in the year 
1818, and were finished in 1826. 
The present palace is of a quadran- 
gular form, being an insulated edi- 
fice standing between Toledo and 
the Largo del CasteUo. Its prin- 
cipal front, turned to the east, over- 
looks the latter square, and is about 
270 feet in length. It presents 
three large entrances, one of which, 
however (that on the left side of 
the building), leads into St James's 
Church. These doors are sur- 
mounted by three rows of seventeen 
windows each, besides those of the 
lower story. The opposite front 
overlooks the street of Toledo, and 
displays but two higher ranges of 
twenty-one windows each, and a 
single entrance ; this is 320 feet in 
length. The lateral sides run for 
464 feet along two smaller streets, 
and, when the palace is completely 
finished, each of them will have 
three entrances. The interior of 
the edifice contains the ministerial 
offices and those belonging to the 
principal branches of the govern- 
ment, namely, the finance depart- 
ment, the treasury, the police office; 



776 



SOUTHERN ITALy. — NAPLES. FIRST DAY. 



and it also contains the exchange. 
The whole palace is the central 
place of both the commercial and 
administrative business in Naples ; 
its position between Toledo and the 
Largo del Castello could not be 
better chosen for the purpose of 
rendering it convenient to the in- 
habitants of the different quarters 
of this populous city. This place 
is well lighted with gas. 

Til!' Churchof St James degll Spag- 
nunli. — This church was erected in 
1540 by the viceroy, Don Peter of 
Toledo, after designs by Ferdinand 
Manlio. A marble staircase is in 
its entrance, which is ornamented 
with two mausoleums likewise in 
marble, erected to the memory of 
two nolale Spaniards. The church 
is now undergoing repairs. It 
chiefly requires to be stuccoed. 
Before the military occupation of 
the kingdom it contained a fine 
picture of Andrew del Sarto, which 
is supposed to have been carried 
off during that period, though a 
similar painting is still to be seen 
at the same place, that is, in the 
chapel on the left side of the grand 
altar ; but the fact of the supposed 
substitution is far from being ascer- 
tained. Several other valuable pic- 
tures may be observed in various 
other chapels, especially three exe- 
cuted upon wood, by Mark Pino, 
of Sienne, representing, one the 
Crucifix, another St James, and the 
third the Holy Virgin with St 
Francis and St Anthony; three 
others, likewise on wood, by Ber- 
nard Lama, Criscuolo, and an 
unknown author ; and finally, 
four pictures by the Cav. Mas- 
simo, Bernardino of Scicily, Pas- 
santi, the disciple of Ribera, and 
the fourth by an unknown author ; 
but the rarest production of the 
fine arts it contains is the marble 
tomb of the viceroy, who founded 
the church. It is one of the finest 
works of John Merliano, of Nola. 
It is situated in the choir, with seve- 



ral other sarcophagi of illustrious 
personages. The organ of the 
church, situated in the same place, 
is one of the most valuable instru- 
ments of the kind. 

The Chuich of S: Ferdinmid. — 
This beautiful church, which for- 
merly belonged to the Jesuits, was 
built at the expense of the Countess 
of Lemos, the Vice-Queen of Na- 
ples. The front was made from 
designs by Chevalier Cosmo. The 
paintings which decorate the ceiling 
and the cupola are considered the 
largest and most beautiful works in 
fresco of Paul de Matteis. The 
statues of David and Moses, in one 
of the chapels, are by Vaccaro. 
Before the suppression of the Jesuits 
a picture by Solimea ornamented 
the altar, but at the period of that 
event it was removed to the Royal 
Museum, where it may still be seen. 
A modern one has been substituted 
to that. Three other fine pictures 
may be observed on the lateral 
chapels, one representing the Con- 
ception, another St Ignatius, and 
the third St Antony of Padua. 

The church of St Ferdinand is 
now a parochial one, and belongs to 
the congregation of the nobility, 
under the title La Vergine Addo- 
lorata. The king is the head of 
this confraternity. 

From St Ferdinand, proceeding 
through the street of St Anna di 
Palazzo, we go to 

The Church of St Charles AUe 
Mortelle. — It was so called from the 
myrtles (mortelle) which formerly 
covered the country at the foot of 
Mount St Ermo. Tliis church, as 
well as the convent, was founded 
by the peres Pieux Barnabites in 
1616. These monks were suppres- 
sed during the military occupation 
of the kingdom. In the year 1818 
they were replaced by the Augus- 
tines, to whom the administration 
of the church belongs at present. 
The chapel of St Liboire contains a 
fine picture by Jordans. Five other 



NAPLES. — FIEST DAT. CHURCHES. 



pictures may be observed in the ' 
choir. Each of them represents some 
prodigious ereut in St Charles's i 
life, and three of them, the most I 
valuable, bear the seal of the go- : 
vernment, which, during the revo- ■ 
lutionary period, was obliged to take I 
this precaution in order to prevent j 
other pictures bemg fraudulently 
substituted instead of the originals. ] 

In the immediate vicinity is a 
Royal College, called Collegio delle I 
Scuole Pie di Puglia, where the 
young nobihty only, both native ; 
and foreigners, are admitted for 
education. 

In one of the adjacent streets is 

The Academy for Engraving Plates 
and Hard Stones. — Charles HI, 
on his passage through Florence, 
formed the design of estabhshing 
at Naples an academy for engrav- 
ing similar to the one he had seen 
in the former place. He executed 
this plan by calling to his capital se- 
veral Florentine artists, whose de- 
scendants are stiU employed in this 
estabhshment. It has no remark- 
able appearance, but very valuable 
works are executed there. They 
show, among others, an oval piece of 
oriental petrified wood intended 
for a table, and several stupendous 
pieces of workmansliip.made partly 
of precious stones and partly of 
oriental petrified wood, the whole 
destined for the chapel of the Royal 
Palace at Caserta. A school of 
drawing had also been founded in 
this academy, but in the recent 
organization of pubhc instruction, 
tliis branch was removed to the 
academy degli Studi, whither the 
whole establishment will soon be 
transferred. 

A descent leads from these places 
to a bridge called Ponte di Chiaja, 
by which the hill of St Ermo is 
connected with that of Pizzo Fal- 
cone. Close to this bridge on the 
right side is 

The Church of St Mary oftheAngels. 
— It is a grand church, erected by the 



Peres PieuxTheatins in 1600, on the 
plan of P. Francis Grimaldi, It has 
three naves, and is ornamented with 
numerous paintings by Chevalier 
Masimo, Jordans, and Andrea Vac- 
caro. It contains also valuable 
marbles, among which the two 
Angels on the corners of the grand 
altar deserve particular attention. 
The altar is itself a most remark- 
able piece on account of the pre- 
cious marbles with which it is co- 
vered. The cupola of this church 
is a magnificent imitation of St 
Peter's at Rome. It is entirely co- 
vered with lead, and maj^ be seen 
from any open part of the town. 
The street in which this church 
stands leads to the top of the hill 
called Pizzo Falcone, but before 
reaching it we turn to the right by 
a short lane to see 

The Church of La Nunziatella. 
— This church formerly belonged to 
the Jesuits, who rebuilt it in 1730 
after a plan by Ferdinand SanFelice. 
It is ornamented with marbles, gilt 
stuccoes, and paintings by the most 
celebrated artists of that period. It 
contains besides two most valuable 
pictures by ancieut,though unknown 
authors — one representing a falling 
Christ, wliich is in the chapel of the 
Calvario, and the other in the sa- 
cristy, representing the Annuncia- 
tion of the Virgin. In the military 
coUege belonging to this church, 
under the title of Polytechnic School, 
150 young men are maintained and 
educated. 

From the Nunziatella we re-enter 
the great street, and go up to 

Pizzo Falcone. — This hiU was for- 
merly called Echia, perhaps from 
the name of Hercules, and was after- 
wards denominated Lucullana, be- 
cause it was partly occupied by the 
gardens and palace of LucuUus, a Ro- 
man consul. This was formerly united 
to the CasteUo deU' Uovo, but the se- 
paration of the ground was caused by 
an earthquake. In the place where 
we are now — that is, on the top of 



778 



SOUTHERN ITALY. — NAPLES. FIEST DAT. 



the hill — there was in Charles of 
Anjou's time a royal chace of 
falcons, and from this circmnstance 
the hill derived its present name of 
Pizzo Ealcone. The chace was 
afterwards cut down, and an edi- 
fice was constructed on its site for 
the detention of convicts, but in 
more recent times it was converted 
into military barracks, which are 
now occupied by the Grenadiers or 
Life Guards. At the top, on the 
side overlooking the sea, is a palace 
belonging to the crown, and which 
contains at present a superb estab- 
lishment directed by a colonel. 

This is the royal topographical 
office, where topographic, geogra- 
phic, and hydrographieal maps are 
formed both of this and foreign 
countries. It is furnished with a 
cabinet of geodetic and optical in- 
struments, by the best European 
makers, and possesses an astronomi- 
cal observatory for geodedic opera- 
tions. A mihtary typography is 
likewise found there, with a calco- 
graphy for the printing of maps, a 
lithography, a collection of military 
plans and memoirs in manuscripts, 
and finally a selected library for the 
instruction of the officers belonging 
both to the navy and the army. 

Descending from Pizzo Falcone 
by the sea side we reach the 

Castello deir Uovo. — A large bridge 
forms the communication with this 
castle, which projects into the sea 
about 230 toises, and, as we have 
already stated, was formerly united 
with the hill of Pizzo Falcone, but 
has been divided from it by an earth- 
quake. This island is called Me- 
garis by Pliny, and MegaUa by 
Stace. According to the opinion of 
antiquaries, the celebrated and rich 
Lucullus, a Roman consul, had a 
villa here ; from this circumstance 
the castle, for a long period of time, 
preserved the name of Castrum Lu- 
cullanum. It is the place to which 
the young Augustulus, the last em- 
peror of Rome, was banished by 



Odoacre, king of the Herulians, and 
first king of Italy, in the year 476. 
William I, the second king of 
Naples, constructed a palace there 
in 1154, which was afterwards for- 
tified and put in a state of defence. 
An inscription may be seen there in 
honour of the viceroy Francis Bena- 
vides, who made several additions 
in 1693. 

In coming again out of the castle, 
we have on our left a beautiful 
quay, which adjoins that of Chiaja. 
It is called Platamone (vulgarly 
Chiatamone), a word which is de- 
rived from the Greek Platamon, 
perhaps because it was formerly 
planted with plane trees. A little 
palace is found there, belonging to 
the king, and which is occasionally 
inhabited by foreign princes who 
come to Naples. A spring of mi- 
neral water is found in a subterra- 
neous grotto by the castle. The 
Neapolitans call it Acqua Ferrata; 
it is used, especially in winter, for 
the cure of various disorders . The 
way on our right leads to 

St Lucia. — This is a very re- 
markable place, both on account of 
its delightful position in front of 
the gulf, of which it commands a 
fine prospect, and because in sum- 
mer it is the nightly rendezvous of 
fashionable people. 

On this spot is another spring 
of acidulous and sulphurous water, 
called Acqua Solfegn a. It descends, 
like the former, through subterra- 
neous channels, from the hill of 
Pizzo Falcone, and from the month 
of June to the end of September it 
becomes the medicinal drink of 
almost all valetudinarians at Naples. 

A beautiful fountain is seen 
near to this spring. It was 
made from drawings by Domi- 
nic Auria. Along the remainder 
of the beach a number of wooden 
shops are usually erected in the 
afternoon, where shells and exqui- 
site fish are sold. On the opposite 
side there are several inns and 



NAPLES. — SECOND DAT. CHURCH OF SAX MARTINO. 



79 



famished lodgings, which are 
eagerly sought after by foreigners, 
on account of the beautiful pros- 
pect they afford. The beach termi- 
nates with a small but very ancient 
church, dedicated to St Lucia, a 
circumstance from which the whole 
quarter derives its name. This 
church was erected by Lucia, the 
niece of Constantine the Great. 

SECOKD DAY. 

We shall employ this day in 
visiting the mountain called Vo- 
mero, where we shall see the castle 
of St Ermo, and the church of St 
Martin. From thence we shall 
proceed to the Camaldules, and on 
our return visit the church of St 
Theresa, the Royal Academy of 
Study, the square of the Holy 
Ghost ; we shall afterwards pass 
to the quarter of Monte OUveto. 

From Pausilipo, we shall return 
to Chiaja, to ascend the mountain 
called Yomero, on account of the 
fertility of its lands, which are infi- 
nitely superior to those in the 
vicinity. On this mountain are 
several churches, as well as the 
most beautiful villas of Naples, 
amongst which may be distin- 
guished those of Prince Caraffa 
of Belvedere, and of Count Ricci- 
ardi, and the country seat of the 
Duchess of Floridia. 

From thence we proceed to the 
adjoining hill, called St Ermo, from 
an ancient Phoenician word, signi- 
fying high or sublime, as in fact 
this mountain is. In the middle 
age a chapel was erected here, 
and dedicated to St Erasmus ; 
from this circumstance, the name 
of that saint was given to the moun- 
tain, which is indifferently called 
St Ermo or St Erasmo. 

On the top of this mountain is 
situated the 

Castello San Ermo. — This was 
formerly a tower, erected by the 
Norman princes ; from its advan- 
tageous situation at the summit of 



a mountain, commanding the city 
on one side and the sea on the 
other, it received the name of Bel- 
forte. Charles II converted this 
into a castle, to which he added 
new fortifications in 1518, when 
Naples was besieged by General 
Lautrec. Charles V made it after- 
wards a regular citadel, which 
Phihp V embellished with new 
works. The whole of this building 
now presents an hexagon about 
100 toises in diameter, composed of 
very high walls, with a counter- 
scarp cut in the rock, in which 
likewise are made the ditches sur- 
rounding it, with mines, counter- 
mines, and several subterranean 
ways in its vicinity. In the centre 
of the castle is a very extensive 
place d'armes, with a formidable 
artillery, and a numerous garrison. 
Beneath this castle is a cistern 
of prodigious size, being as broad 
as the castle itself. 
A short distance below the castle is 
The Church of San Martino. — 
This spot was formerly occupied by a 
country house of the king of Naples, 
which was rendered remarkably 
delightful by the beauty of its situ- 
ation. Charles, duke of Calabria, 
son of Robert of Anjou, solicited 
his father to convert it into a 
sacred building ; so that in 1325 
the erection of the church and 
monastery was commenced, and 
they were endowed by King 
Robert and Queen Jane I. 

The present church was re-mo- 
delled two centuries afterwards, 
according to the plan of Chevalier 
Fansaga, and the fine appearance it 
bears, attended with the real beauty 
of its decorations, render it most 
worthy of notice. It is ornamented 
with fine paintings, beautiful mar- 
bles, precious stones, and gilt stuc- 
coes. On the upper part of the 
door is a picture by Chevalier Mas- 
simo, representing Jesus Christ and 
the Virgin Mary. On the sides of 
the church likewise are two other 
pictures, representing Moses and 



7S0 



SOUTIIEEN ITALY. NAPLES. SECOND DAT. SAN MARTINO. 



Elias ; these are executed by Spagno- 
letto, and are very fine compositions. 
The twelve prophets, forming eight 
pictures, on the roof of the nave, are 
the chefs-d'oeuvre of Spagnoletto, 
whether considered as to their 
sublimity of design, and variety of 
characters, or to their natural ex- 
pression and beauty of colourmg, 
The frescoes on the roof of the nave, 
representing our Saviour's ascen- 
sion, and the twelve apostles, placed 
between the windows, are ranked 
amongst the best works of Cheva- 
lier Lanfranc. 

The grand altar is executed in 
wood from a design by Solimea, and 
was to be enriched with valuable 
marbles, but this has not been 
effected. The choir is remarkably 
beautiful ; the paintings on the ceil- 
ing were commenced by Chevalier 
d'Arpino, and continued by Berar- 
dino of Sicily. The principal pic- 
ture, corresponding with the grand 
altar, and representing the Birth of 
our Saviour, is by the celebrated 
Guido Reni, but the death of this 
painter prevented his finishing it. 
The other paintings seen in this 
church are by Lanfranc, Spagno- 
letto, and the Chevalier Massimo. 
The chapels likewise contain a 
number of fine paintings, amongst 
which is the BapHsm of St John, 
the only work in Naples painted by 
Charles Maratta. There are in the 
same chapel two paintings repre- 
senting Herodias in the act of offer • 
ing the head of St John to Herod, 
a,nd the decollation of the saint, 
both by the Chevalier Massimo. 

The chapel of St Anselm contains 
two fine pictures by Vaccari. That 
of St Martin is ornamented with a 
fresco very much esteemed, exe- 
cuted two hundred and fifty years 
ago, by the Chevalier Paolo Finog- 
lia, A very fine bas-relief, by 
Vaccari j the sculptor, may be seen 
in the chapel of St Gennaroj and 
that of St Bruno, entirely painted 
by the Chevalier Massimo, is looked 
upon as one of his best works. 



The ceiling of the sacristy was 
painted by the Chevalier Arpino. 
The picture on the arch opposite 
the door, representing our Saviour 
in the house of Pilate, is the more 
worthy of notice, as three artists 
were employed to execute it ; name - 
ly, Viviani for the perspective, the 
Chevalier Massimo for the figures, 
and the Chevalier Cosmo Pan saga 
for the design. Another excellent 
picture in the sacristy represents 
St Peter denying the Lord. It is 
by Michael Angelo Caravaggio. 
Adjoining the sacristry is a chapel, 
all the paintings of which are by 
Jordan;;, excepting the picture of 
the grand altar, representing Jesus 
Christ dead, which is one of the 
finest works of Spagnoletto. It dis- 
plays the rarest qualities of the art. 
This chapel is called the treasury, 
because all the movable ornaments 
of the church were once kept 
there. 

Besides the pictures, the traveller 
will certainly adniire in this church 
the room called La Sala del Con- 
sigiio (the council hall), the beauty 
of the choir and of the sacristy en- 
tirely covered with mosaics worked 
in wood of the Brazils, representing 
several prospects from, and histo- 
ries of the Old Testament. These 
were executed by Pra Bonaventura 
Prest, a German, a Carthusian lay 
brother. The cleanliness of the 
pavements, and in general the ex- 
cellent keeping of the church, de-^ 
serve likewise attenion. It does 
honour to the keeper, Mr Antonio 
Kainieri, who is to be applied to by 
foreigners wishing to visit the 
church. They will find in hira 
every assistance towards becoming 
acquainted with the several beauties 
of this truly agreeable church. 

The monastery was suppressed in 
the year 1807, and converted into 
barracks, which are now those of 
the Invalids. The situation of this 
building is one of the finest that 
can possibly be imagined, command- 
ing a complete view of the immense 



NAPLES. —THIRD DAT. ROYAL ACADEMY. 



781 



city of Naples. The spectator may 
distinctly see all the finest buildings, 
and almost all the streets and prin- 
cipal squares; he may hear the 
noise of the people, as well as car- 
riages in the city, from this spot, 
and thence nxay discover on one 
side the magnificent gulf of Naples, 
and on the otner the beautiful hills 
of Pausilipo. and Capo di Monte, 
and the Campagna Felice, which 
extends as far as Caserta. In the 
distance may be seen the mountains 
of Tifata, and beyond them the 
majestic chain of the Apennines. 
Independently of its natural beau- 
ties, this prospect is enriched by 
the delightful villages of Portici, 
Torre del Greco, and La Nun- 
ziata. This magnificent situation 
is crowned by the mountains of 
Sorrento, of Vico, and of Massa; 
and by the islands of Capri, Ischia, 
Procida, and Nisida. The best point 
of view for enjoying this superb 
ooux) d'oeil is from the garden of the 
ancient monastery, called Belvedere. 

From St Ermo we proceed north- 
ward for the space of about four 
miles, to the summit of another 
mountain, and reach the hermitage 
and church of the Camaldules, in 
which may be seen several fine pic- 
tures by the Calabrese, Santafrede, 
Barrocci, and the Chevalier Massi- 
mo. The painting by the latter 
represents the Lord's Supper. The 
hermitage contains at present 
thirty-four monks belonging to the 
order of St Benedict as reformed by 
St Romualdo. 

This spot is worthy of notice, as 
it commands a delightful prospect 
of the Campagna Felice, extending 
as far as Terracina, to a distance 
of about eighty miles. 

On our return from the Camal- 
dules we descend through the street 
called ITufrascata to the lower part 
of the town till we reach 

The Church of St Theresa.— This 
magnificent church, belonging to 
the barefooted Carmelites, v/as 



erected about the year 1600, after 
a plan by James Consorti. It had 
a grand altar, ornamented with 
precious marbles and gilt bronze ; 
but this was removed during the 
military occupation of the kingdom 
to the chapel of the Royal palace, 
where it may still be seen. The 
paintings of the chapel of Sl Theresa 
are executed by the Chevalier Mas- 
simo. The window contains two 
pictures, one representing the Flight 
into Egypt, and the other the vene- 
rable personage known by the ap- 
pellation of Dominick di Gesu e 
Maria, in the battle of Praga, both 
by James del Po. This church was 
formerly almost on a level with the 
street, which passed before it, but 
under the military government a 
new one having been constructed, 
leading to Capo di Monte, and 
much lower than the former, the 
church has been left higher, and, in 
order to render it accessible, it has 
been requisite to raise the two late- 
ral flights of stairs which lead to it 
at present. 

THIRD DAY. 

The Boi/al Academt/ Deyli Siudi.— 
This grand edifice was erected in 
1587, by the Viceroy, Duke of Os- 
suna, from designs by Julius Caesar 
Fontana, for the accommodation of 
the Royal Academy of Study. 
Count Lemos continued this build- 
ing, and it was afterwards aug- 
mented by Charles III. But in 
1780, the public studies having been 
transferred to the college of St Sa- 
viour, Ferdinand I appropriated this 
building to the new Academy of 
Sciences and the Fine Arts, and it 
now contains seventy -one rooms : — 

Five rooms of mosaics and frescoes. 

Two of Egyptian relics. 

Two of Toro Farnese. 

One of bronzes. 

Twelve of marble statues. 

Five of terra cotta. 

One of gems. 



782 



SOUTHERN ITALY.— NAPLES. THIRD DAY. ROYAL ACADEMY. 



Five of small bronzes. 

Nine of Tuscan vases, &c. 

Nine of paintings. 

One of medals. 

One secret cabinet. 

Library, eight. 

Three of Papyrus. 

Seven of foreign paintings. 

In the vestibule are two colossal 
equestrian statues, modelled by Ca- 
nova, of Charles III and Ferdinand 
I, kings of the Two Sicilies -, the 
model of the bronze statues, opposite 
the church of St Ferdinand; of 
Alexander Severus, of Flora, of the 
genius of Eome, and of Urania. As 
the limit of this work will not allow 
me to describe the contents in full 
of even one room, I beg to refer to 
one of the catalogues sold at the 
entrance, price one piaster; that by 
Bernard Quaranta is not correct. 

In outward appearance it is a 
large brick building stuccoed ; the 
fayade is majestic ; the middle of 
the entrance is adorned with hand- 
some pillars brought from Portici. 
On the ground floor, to the left, are 
apartments filled with the pictures 
sawed from the walls of Hercula- 
neum, Pompeii, &c., among which a 
parrot drawing a car with a grass- 
hopper driving, and other whimsi- 
cal subjects, are supposed to be 
copies from Zeuxis. The gallery of 
ancient sculpture contains the hall 
of Flora, hall of Apollo, hall of the 
Muses, hall of the Venuses, hall of 
Hercules, hall of Atlas, hall of Anti- 
nous, and the Cabinet ; in the second 
division is the famous colossal Her- 
cules of Glycon, found in Caracalla's 
baths at Rome, and considered one 
of the finest statues extant. In the 
third division is a statue of Agrip- 
pina, the mother of Nero. The 
hall of Flora contains the colossal 
statue of Flora, also found in Cara- 
calla's baths, a chef-d'oeuvre of the 
Grecian chisel ; and the Toro Far- 
nese, said to be by Phydias. The 
hall of the Muses contains a large 
and fine vase of Greek marble, orna- 



mented with bas-reliefs by Sal- 
pion, a sculptor of Athens. The 
hall of Venus contains a Venus, 
said to be by Praxiteles, with seve- 
ral others of that goddess ; a statue 
of Bacchus as a Hermaphrodite. 
The hall of Atlas contains the sta- 
tue of Aris tides, from Herculaneum, 
considered a master-piece of the 
Grecian chisel. The hall of Anti- 
nous contains the group of Orestes 
and Electra, from Herculaneum. 
Adjoining the gallery of Sculpture 
is the open court and quadrangle, 
containing several colossal statues 
and other antiquities. Opposite the 
gallery, on the right as you enter, 
is the apartment containing the 
Egyptian antiquities, among which 
are several mummies in a wonder- 
ful state of preservation, a statue of 
Isis, found in her temple at Pom- 
peii, other divinities, small vases, 
incense bottles, &c. &c. A little 
further on, on the right, and at the 
foot of the grand staircase, is the 
apartment containing the bronze 
statues and busts, chiefly found in 
Herculaneum ; this collection of 
bronzes is probably the finest, most 
ancient, and most valuable in the 
world ; many of them are exqui- 
site, and perfectly natural ; the 
two lads playing at bowls seem 
almost alive, and the drunken faun 
in the middle of the apartment, re- 
clining on a wineskin, is snapping 
his fingers, and laughing. 

The grand staircase in front leads 
to the first floor, where two flights 
of steps meet at the entrance to the 
library, which contains about 
200,000 printed volumes, with a 
large collection of precious manu- 
scripts : the body of this building is 
long, and communicates with four 
halls well stocked with books . One 
apartment is appropriated entirely 
to manuscripts, another to curious 
prints. The library is open to the 
public every day from ten till two 
(excepting the two last apartments); 
persons who come to read are re- 



NAPLES. — THIRD DAY. ROYAL ACADEMY. 



783 



quired to write the name of the boot 
they want upon a slip of paper ; 
and, on going away, to return the 
paper and the book. In the centre 
of the large hall an echo, said to re- 
peat thirty-two times, is produced 
by striking two books together. On 
one side of the library are th* rooms 
where the manuscripts from Hereu- 
laneum are unrolled ; they resemble 
cudgels, of a black and brown colour, 
and in part petrified ; the process of 
unfolding them is a most tedious one ; 
a number have been found legible, 
but very few complete. Pbilodemus 
upon Rhetoric, was complete, and a 
moral work of Polistratus ; copious 
remains of Epicurus upon Nature ; 
some remnants of a Latin poem, on 
the war between Marc Antony and 
Octavius, &c. (fee. The other nu- 
merous apartments on the same floor 
contain the antiquities brought from 
Herculaneurn, Pompeii, Stabia, &c. 
tfec. In other rooms are the gold 
ornaments, necklaces, earrings, coins 
and medals, mosaics, ancient glass, 
dishes, incense bottles, bronze uten- 
sils, wine cups, pens, tablets, lamps, 
kitchen furniture, loaves, fruits, 
grain, honeycombs, &c. &c., reduced 
to a sort of hard cinder, and kept in 
glass cases. In the first room is the 
celebrated cameo, said to be the 
most valuable work of its kind in 
existence ; on one side is the apo- 
theosis of Ptolemy, on the other the 
head of Medusa. Here are also 
the mirrors, combs, rouge, and gold 
personal ornaments, found in the 
tombs of iemales; arms, armour, 
papyri, styles, and dice in the tombs 
of men ; tops, dolls, and other toys 
in those of children. In another 
suite of rooms is a collection of 
vases, from the above places, finely 
painted. The floors were taken from 
Herculaneum, Pompeii, &c. &c. : 
they are partly mosaic, partly marble 
and very beautiful. In one of the 
rooms are some very beautiful vases 
from Nola. Another suite of apart- 



ments contains the easel paintings 
by Raphael, Titian, Dominichino, 
Giulio Romano, Claude, Correggio, 
the Caraccis, and other great masters ; 
and in one of these rooms are excel- 
lent and correct models in cork, of 
Herculaneum, Pompeii, the temples, 
&c. &c., at Psestum, with other 
ancient edifices of Magna Graecia. 
The beautiful mosaic of one of Alex- 
ander's battles has just been placed 
in a hall adjoining the Toro Far- 
nese. The Camera Oscena is kept 
locked, and cannot be seen without 
an order from the government 
through the ambassador; others 
are exquisite as works of art, but 
shockingly obscene. 

The Museum is open to the pub- 
lic every day, festivals excepted, 
from ten in the morning till two in 
the afternoon ; it is rather expensive 
to go over it alone, the traveller 
may obviate this by going in com- 
pany : from two bajocchi to two 
carlins is given to each custode, ac- 
cording to the number of rooms and 
the size of the party. 

From the academy to 

The Piazza delloSpirito Santo. — 
This square, which the Neapolitans 
call also Largo di Mercatello, is 
ornamented with a beautiful semi- 
circular edifice, erected in 1757, at 
the expense of the city, in honour 
of Charles III., king of Naples. The 
architect employed in its construc- 
tion was the Chevalier Vanvitelli. 
It is surmounted by a marble balus- 
trade, on which are twenty-six sta- 
tues, representing the virtues of the 
monarch. In the centre of the 
building is a grand pedestal, in- 
tended to bear the equestrian statue 
of king Charles III., who was so well 
entitled to the gratitude of the city 
of Naples. This statue, however, 
has not yet been erected. 

Near this square is 

The Church of the Holy Ghost. — 
This was established in 1555, by a 
society of [devotees, under the direc- 



784 



SOUTHERN ITALY. — NAPLES. THIRD DAY. CHURCHES. 



tion of a Dotpinican monk. They 
erected a small church, which was 
rebuilt in 1564, with a conservatory 
for girls whose situation in life might 
be endangered by a bad education. 
This church was again rebuilt be- 
tween the years 1774 and 1775, after 
the plan of Marius Giofredo. The 
grand altar is adorned with valuable 
marbles and with a large picture re- 
presenting the Descent of the Holy 
Ghost, by Francis La Mura. In 
the smaller entrance to the church, 
two fine pictures are seen, one on 
the right and the other on the left 
side, representing the Descent of the 
Holy Ghost and St. Charles Bor- 
romeo, both by Fabrizio Santafede. 
Another reraarkaWe picture by the 
same author is in the chapel belong- 
ing to the family of Campo Chiaro. 
It represents the patronage of the 
Holy Virgin. That which orna- 
mented the chapel of the Rosary, by 
Luke Jordans, has been removed. 
Two other large and fine pictures 
may be observed in the chapels next 
to the grand altar ; that on the right 
is executed by Fischietti, and the 
other by Celebrano. 

Opposite this church is the palace 
Doria of the princes d'Angri, which 
for its very fine architecture by the 
Chevalier Vanvitelli deserves par- 
ticular attention. Here begins the 
quarter of Mount OHveto, the most 
populous and commercial in Naples. 
Several other palaces ornament it ; 
we shall especially notice that of 
Pignatelli of the dukes of Monte- 
leone; that of Maddalone, one front 
of which overlooks the street of 
Toledo ; this is one of the principal 
palaces in Naples, both on account 
of the architecture, and of the sta- 
tues and pictures with which its in- 
terior is decorated. 

At length, when arrived on the 
square of Monte Oliveto we shall ob- 
serve there the palace of the dukes 
of Gravina of the family of Orsini, 
which is likewise one of the most 



conspicuous from its beautiful archi- 
tecture by Gabriel Agnolo. 

Upon this square the traveller will 
observe a large fountain of marble 
ornamented with three lions, throw- 
ing water into a basin, and sur- 
mounted by a bronze statue of Charles 
II. He caused this fountain to be 
constructed, and his statue was 
erected by the public in the year 
1668. 

From the square we go up by a 
short ascent to 

The Church of St. Mary of Monte 
Oliveto. — It was [foundedj in 1411, 
by Gurello Origlia, prothonotary 
of the kingdom, during the reign of 
King Ladislas : at the same time was 
founded the monastery of Olivetan 
monks, which was afterwards en- 
dowed with considerable property 
by Alphonso 11. of Arragon. The 
church is very handsome, and 
abounds with ornaments of every 
description, The beautiful chapel 
of St. Sepulchre is remarkable for 
the statues in terra cotta, by Mo- 
danin of Modena, who, independently 
of the mystery, has presented us 
with the portraits of many of the 
illustrious men of his time ; thus the 
face of Nicodemus is a portrait of 
John Pontanus ; that of Joseph of 
Arimathea, is a likeness of Sannazar ; 
and St. John weeping, and the statue 
at his side, represent Alphonso II. 
with Ferdinand his son. 

The monastery attached to the 
church has been suppressed. It 
was one of the largest and finest 
in Naples. It had four cloisters, in 
one of which was a small obelisk 
and several ancient statues. These 
objects have been given to a con- 
servatory called Ventapane, situated 
near St. Efren Nuovo, and the mo- 
nastery is now occupied by several 
magistrates and public offices, 
namely, the intendenza of Naples, 
the municipal body, the high court 
of justice, &c. 

The church belongs now to the 



NlPLES. — ^FOURTH DAT. KOYAL PALACE. 



785 



Lombard nation, to whom it was 
given in 1801 by lung Eerdinand. 
Three years after, that is in 1804, 
he confirmed this donation by a 
solemn decree. In the present year, 
1825, the administrators of the 
chm*ch have been imder the ne- 
cessity of repairing its ceiling both 
inside and outside, which has been 
executed in a very elegant manner. 

From this church we shall re- 
enter the street of Toledo, which is 
the finest and most magnificent in 
Naples. It derived its name from 
the viceroy, Don Peter of Toledo, 
who constructed it in 1540, on the 
ditches of the city ramparts. Its 
length, from the Royal palace to the 
Royal Academy, is nearly a mile ; it 
is ornamented with handsome shops, 
and a considerable number of pa- 
laces, amongst which may be dis- 
tinguished the Royal palace, and 
those of Stighano, delle Finanze, 
Cavalcante, Monte-Leone, Madda- 
loni, Dentici, and Berio ; in the 
latter is a fine collection of pictures, 
and a superb group in marble, re- 
presenting Venus and Adonis, exe- 
cuted by the celebrated Marquis Ca- 
nova. The palaces of Monte-Leone 
and Maddaloni contain numerous 
fine pictures by first-rate artists. 

The streets in the vicinity of that 
of Toledo have a very bad character; 
most of them are narrow, with high 
houses on each side. 

Return to hotel. 



FOURTH DAY. 

Proceeding to the Capo di Monte, 
a delightful liiU, commanding a 
view of a large part of Naples. 
The way to it begins from the 
church of St Theresa, and advancing 
over a magnificent bridge of seven 
arches, erected over a lower street 
of the town, it proceeds for the 
space of about one mile to 

The Roi/al Palace of Capo di 
Monte. — This superb palace was 



erected in 1738, by Charles III, and 
its charming situation renders it 
one of the most dehghtful of the 
royal buildings Its construction 
was entrusted to Medrano, an archi- 
tect of Palermo, who, amongst other 
faults, laid the foundation on a spot 
which had been already excavated 
for the purpose of procuring stones; 
so that m order to support the 
building on the summit of the 
mountain, it was necessary to form 
several foundations in the plain. 
These works may stiU be seen at the 
place called La Montagna Spaccata. 

This palace, which remained in- 
complete, contained the pictures 
and museum of the house of Far- 
nese, as well as several curiosities 
acquired by the king ; but the 
whole of these have been removed 
to the Royal Academy. 

Round the palace is the park, or 
royal chace called Bosco di Capo di 
Monte. It is surrounded with 
walls, and has an extent of nearly 
three miles. A little beyond the 
entrance, five long and wide walks 
are seen, which advance into the 
interior of the forest, where they are 
crossed by other allies from the. 
opposite side. The first walk on 
the north leads to the royal chapel, 
dedicated to St Januarius, and 
thence to the royal preserve of 
pheasants, near which is the house 
inhabited by the guards. Statues, 
fountains, and cottages may be ob- 
served along each walk. At the 
end of the park there is a beautiful 
cabinet with a parterre, and a fish 
pond. This is intended to serve 
as a shelter in case of rain during 
the chace, which is rendered ex- 
tremely pleasant by the quantity 
of hares, rabbits, and game of every 
kind. 

Not far from the Royal palace is 
the villa of Commander Macedonio 
rendered remarkable by the paint- 
ings of the skilful Nicolini, which 
have given the interior, as weU as 
exterior, the appearance of a rustic 



786 



SOUTHERN ITALY. — NAPLES. FOURTH DAT. 



cabin ; besides which, the whole hill 
is embellished by a number of very 
handsome comitry-seats, among 
which we shall especially notice 
those of the Duke del Gallo, the Mar- 
quis Euffo, and the Princess AveUa. 
In going out of the Eoyal palace, 
the traveller should cross the pub- 
lic street, and advance between the 
houses on the opposite side, into a 
ground called La Riccia, or Mira- 
dois, to 

The Royal Astronomical Observa- 
tory. — It was founded in the year 
1819 by the late King Ferdinand, 
and it consists of a large hall with 
a vestibule, two wings turned — one 
to the west, and the other to the 
east, and a fourth apartment north- 
ward, connected with the others. 
Three towers rise above the edifice, 
having moveable roofs, two of a 
spheric and the third of a decagonal 
form. The vestibule, supported by 
six marble columns of the Doric 
order, gives a direct passage into 
the hall, which is forty feet long 
and thirty broad. Twelve columns, 
similar to those of the vestibule, 
support its ceiling. The hall com- 
municates on the right with three 
rooms, and with another on the 
left, which is lengthened into a 
gallery. There are, besides, other 
apartments constructed for the fixed 
meridian instruments, some of which 
have already been placed there. 
Several staircases lead from this 
story to the three towers, which 
contain two fixed repetitor cercles, 
having a diameter of three feet, 
and a complete equatorial machine. 
Pendulums, and every other object 
required for the observations, may 
be seen both in the towers and in 
the rooms below. The building 
has but one story, surmounted by 
a fine terrace. It is covered with 
travertine, and ornamented all 
around with a large freize, and the 
corresponding attic, the whole of 
the Doric order. 
After seeing the observatory re- 



turn the same way ; when arrived 
near the bridge, descend to the lower 
part of the town, where is the church 
of St Januarius of the Poor. The 
spot whereupon it rises is the same 
where Bishop St Severus placed the 
body of St Januarius when it was 
brought from Pozzuoh to Naples. 

In this church is the principal 
entrance to 

The Catacombs of St Januarius. — 
These consist of subterranean ways, 
cut out of the hill in the form of 
corridors, with others of smaller 
size on the side, which have three 
stories ; the walls contain six niches 
of different sizes, placed one above 
another. It has been asserted that 
these catacombs extend on one side 
as far as Pozzuoli, and on the other 
as far as Momit Lotrecco ; but no 
person has been able to prove this, 
as there is great difficulty in pro- 
ceeding only a few paces. 

With respect to the use for which 
these catacombs were intended 
some have supposed that they Avere 
formerly subterranean communica- 
tions with the town ; but the most 
general opinion is, that these ex- 
cavations were formed by the ex- 
traction of sand, for the purpose of 
building houses, &c., and that the 
ancient Christians afterwards made 
use of them as oratories and ceme- 
teries during the times of persecu- 
tion, as they did of the catacombs 
of St Sebastian at Rome, and other 
similar places. 

Going onward, we find at a short, 
distance 

The College of the Chinese. — The 
Abbe Mathieu Ripa, of Eboli, a 
little toAvn near Salerno, founded 
this singular establishment in the 
year 1729 under the title of Con- 
gregation, CoUege and Seminary of 
the Sacred Family of Jesus Christ. 
The congregation consists of Nea- 
politan priests, whose aim, accord- 
ing to their constitution, is to per- 
form the service of their own church, 
to discharge in general ail ecclesias- 



NAPLES. — ^FOURTH DAY. ROYAL POOR HOUSE. 



787 



tical functions, and particularly to 
superintend the education of those 
Chinese, Indian, and Levantine 
young men who are sent to their 
seminary to be brought up to the 
ecclesiastical profession. When 
they have received orders they are 
sent back to China, Indies, and the 
east as missionaries. Neapolitan 
youths are likewise admitted into 
this seminary for education, both 
ecclesiastical and civil, but they 
form separate classes. The num- 
ber of the young Chinese educated 
there at present consists of eight. 
There are besides four natives of 
the Levant, aU maintained at the 
expense of the congregation, who 
provides also for the expenses of 
the passage and return of their 
pupils. The whole estabhshment 
is directed at present by the Rev. 
Emanuel di Martino. 

From this spot we enter the 
suburb called De' Vergini, and 
shortly after issuing into the street 
of Foria, we go to visit 

The Royd Poor -House. — This 
immense building, vulgarly called 
the Reclusorio, was first commenced 
in 1751, by order of Charles m, 
after a design by the Chevalier 
Fuga. Into this house all poor 
persons are received, in order that 
they may be taught the different 
trades which are carried on here. 
The building contains four courts, 
1,630 feet in length, in the centre 
of which is a large church. The 
exterior front, which at present is 
only 1,072 feet in length, has a very 
noble appearance, and is adorned 
with a portico of three arches, to 
which is attached a fine double 
flight of steps ; the centre arch 
forms an entrance to the church, 
which has five naves, with an altar 
in the centre, so that the reading 
of the mass may be seen from every 
side. One of the two side arches of 
the portico leads to the apartments 
of the females, and the other to that 
of the men. Of the five divisions, 



of which this building is to consist, 
only three are yet finished, and the 
expense of the erection already 
amounts to a million ducats. About 
5,550 persons of both sexes are now 
maintained and instructed in this 
establishment ; some are taught 
surgery, music, drawing, and en- 
graving, and others apply them- 
selves to the practice of the mecha- 
nical arts. The females sew and 
spin, and manufacture linen and 
stockings. 

This establishment is directed by 
the ChevaUer D. Antonio Sancio, 
who has the title of superintendent; 
it possesses an annual income of 
240,000 ducats, 40,000 being fur- 
nished by the public treasury, and 
the rest proceeding from lands and 
other proprieties given by the late 
King Ferdinand, or bequeathed by 
private benefactors. 

Not very far from this edifice, in 
a place called Ponti Rossi, are 
numerous vestiges of the ancient 
aqueducts made, it is generally 
supposed, by Claudius Nero, to 
conduct the water from Serino, a 
place thirty -five miles distant from 
Naples, to the country houses which 
the Romans had erected at Pausi- 
lipo, Pozzuoli, and Baja. 

The spot called Ponti Rossi lies 
between the hiUs of Capo di Monte 
and Capo di Chino. The French 
had formed upon the latter a field 
called Campo di Marte, an imitation 
of the Champ de Mars at Paris. 
This field, for the formation of 
which a vast extent of lands was 
sacrificed, has been since restored 
to cultivation by Eoug Ferdinand, 
but the road leading to it may still 
be seen ; and it deserves, indeed, to 
be passed over by the traveller, 
especially on account of the fine 
point of view in which the town, 
the gulf, and the surrounding lands 
are seen thence. Near and below 
the road is the cemetery of Naples, 
which m its circumference contains 
as many ditches as there are days 



788 



SOUTHERN ITALY. — NAPLES. FOURTH DAY. CHURCHES. 



in the year. Two inscriptions are 
seen there, worthy of the celebrated 
Mazzocchi, their author. The Nea- 
politans are accustomed to visit this 
cemetery every year, on the 2nd of 
November, consecrated to the souls 
of the dead. On that day the neigh- 
bouring hospital of the Incurable is 
likewise resorted to by the more 
charitable persons for the visit of 
the sick. 

On our return to the town, we 
may enter the Botanic Garden, 
which is situated by the Reclusorio. 
It was formed within these last few 
years ; it is, nevertheless, in the 
most florid and pleasing condition, 
which is to be attributed to the 
liberality used towards this estab- 
lishment by the late king, as weU 
as to the cares bestowed on it by 
the director, M. Michael Tenore, a 
botanist of the first rank, author of 
the beautiful Flora Neapolitana. 
The chief gardener, M. Dehnhart, 
a German, has likewise contributed 
very much to the advantage of this 
garden. It offers now a public 
walk, very much frequented, espe- 
cially on the holy days during the 
warm season, the garden being 
handsomely shaded by very bushy 
trees. 

We re-enter now the interior of 
the city through the gate called Di 
St Gennaro, and, proceeding to- 
wards the street of St Biagio dei 
Librari, we reach 

The Cliurch of St JDominick the 
Greater. — This magnificent church, 
which consists of three naves, is 
built in the Gothic style of archi- 
tecture, and was erected in the year 
1284 by King Charles II of Anjou. 
It contains numerous chapels, in 
one of which, denominated the An- 
nunciation, is a picture by Titian. 
In one of the other chai^els is a fine 
painting by Michael Angelo di Ca- 
ravaggio, representing our Saviour 
on the cross. The. chapel on one 
side of the grand entrance to the 
church contains a picture by Jor- 



dans, and that on the other is de- 
corated with a painting supposed 
to have been executed by Eaphael 
d'Urbino. In one of the naves is 
the chapel of the Crucifix, which 
is said to have sanctioned the doc- 
trine of Thomas Aquinas, by utter- 
ing the following words : " Bene de 
me scripsisti Tlioma." The picture 
of this same St Thomas, by Jordans, 
may be seen in his chapel here. 
The other paintings with which the 
church is embellished are by Mark 
of Sienna, Chevalier Benasca, &c. 

In the sacristy, within several 
chests or trunks, are preserved the 
embalmed dead bodies of the Arra- 
gonese princes, who have reigned 
over this country. They have been 
placed there because Charles of 
Anjou erected in this kingdom 
several convents for the order of 
the Preachers, to whom the pre- 
sent church of St Dominick was 
appropriated. 

The convent is very extensive ; 
the ancient dormitorj'', which was 
formerly the room of St Thomas 
Aquinas, is now converted into a 
splendid chapel. 

In the square, before the small 
gate of the church, is an obelisk, 
ornamented in the richest style. 

This square is adorned with two 
beautiful palaces ,• that of Saluzzo, 
Duke of Corigliano, and that of 
Sangro, Prince of St Severn s ; the 
latter contains numerous objects 
of curiosity, the fruit of the stu- 
dies and inventive genius of Prince 
Don Raymond de Sangro. 

The next object of attention in 
the street of St Biagio dei Librari is 

The Church of St Clair. — This 
building, as well as an extensive 
monastery, was erected in 1310, by 
King Robert, after designs by Ma- 
succi, who had likewise the honour 
of constructing the beautiful steeple, 
which would have been adorned 
with the five orders of architecture, 
had not the death of the king inter- 
fered. The whole of the church 



NAPLES. — ^FOURTH DAY. CHCKCHES. 



789 



had been painted in fresco by the 
celebrated Giotto ; but the Eegent 
Baric Nuovo, who had no taste for 
the fine arts, caused it to be 
whitened over, that the reflection 
might afford more light. 

In the year 1744 it was embel- 
lished, with a beautiful ceiling, 
marbles, gilt stuccoes, and paint- 
ings, the greater part of which 
were executed by the Chevaher 
Sebastian Couca, and by Francis 
Mura. The principal object worthy 
of notice amongst the chapels is 
the small altar piece on one of the 
pilasters, representing the image 
of the Holy Virgin, painted by 
Giotto. 

The altar of the chapel of the 
house of Sanfelice, situated on the 
right of the grand altar, is adorned 
with a beautiful painting by Lan- 
franc. This chapel contains a 
handsome sarcophagus, ornamented 
with bas-reliefs, which appear 
to have been executed in the time 
of paganism ; in 1632, the remains 
of one of the members of the San- 
felice family were deposited in this 
tomb. This is not the only exam- 
ple of pagan sepulchres having 
been transported into Catholic 
churches ; several instances are 
mentioned in the New Picture of 
Rome. The ehapel on the left of 
the grand altar contains the re- 
mains of many princes of the pre- 
sent royal family of Naples. 

Opposite St Clair's is 

The Church of the Gesu Nuovo. — 
Thig church, belonging to the Peres 
Jesuits, was erected in the year 
1584, upon the models of Father 
Peter Provedo, a Jesuit, and a very 
able architect. It may be consi- 
dered as one of the most beautiful 
churches in Naples. It is built in 
the form of a Greek cross, with a 
magnificent cupola in the centre, 
painted by the Chevalier Lanfranc. 
This dome fell down during the 
earthquake in the year 1688. It 
w«a soon after rebuilt, but a$ it 



was thought still to be menaced 
with destruction, it was demolished. 
Finally it was built again for the 
third time, but not with the same 
magnificence as before, and of the 
paintings by Lanfranc, it pre 
served only the four Evangelists in 
the angles. The ceiUng of the 
grand altar is painted by the Che- 
valier Massimo Stanziooi ; those 
of the chapels of St Ignatius and 
St Francis Xaverius, which had 
been painted by Behsario Corenzio, 
were re- touched by Paul de Mat- 
teis. The marble sculpture behind 
the grand altar was executed by 
the Chevalier Cosimo Fansaga. 
The Heliodorus, painted in the 
upper part of the great door, is the 
work of SoUmene. 

The first chapel on the right of 
the entrance contains a large pic- 
ture by Fabrizio Santafede, and 
several frescoes by the Sicihan ; the 
little cupola of the same chapel is 
painted by Simonelli, and the arch 
outside by Solimene. 

The largest picture in the second 
chapel on the same side is by the 
Chevalier Massimo. The cupola, 
the angles, and the arch outside, 
are painted by Jordans ; but the 
cupola has been retouched by ano- 
ther author. The marble sculpture 
in the chapel of St Francis Xave- 
rius is executed by Finelli and 
Ghetti, except the two statues 
which have been but lately trans- 
ported there, and which were 
sculptured by Fansaga. The largest 
of the pictures is by the Sicihan, 
and the tree seen in the upper part 
is by Luke Jordans. The chapel 
next to St Francis's contains a large 
picture by Antonio d'Amato. The 
one following is ornamented with a 
picture by Guercino ; the frescoes 
on the side walls and upon the 
ceiling are considered as among the 
most beautiful executed by Co- 
renzio, 

The first chapel on the right of 
the grfind altfir contains a marble 



790 



SOUTHERN ITALY.— FIFTH DAY. CHURCHES. 



urn, wherein are the bones of 
Francis di Geronimo, which were 
placed there in the year 1821. The 
ceiling of that chapel is painted by 
Solimene, and is his first work, exe- 
cuted when he was but eighteen 
3'ears old. The cupola contiguous 
to the chapel, as well as the angles, 
are painted' by the Chevalier John 
Baptiste Benasca. In the chapel 
of St Ignatius the works of African 
marble, and of French breccia, were 
executed by the Chevalier Cosmo 
Fan saga, ; the largest picture it 
contains i-s the work of Gerolamo 
Imparato. The other three placed 
in the upper part are by Spagnoletto. 

In the second chiapelon the left 
side of the entrance the largest pic- 
ture is by Imparato, the paintings 
of the cupola and ceiMng are among 
the finest works of Belisario Co- 
renzio. The arch outside is painted 
by the Chevalier GiacOmo Farelli. 
In the first chapel, near the door; 
still on the same side, may be seen 
several pictures and frescoes, all 
by the Sicilian. The arch outside 
of this chapel is likewise painted 
by Farelli. Th'e sacristy exhibits^ 
besides the ceiling, which is painted 
by Agnello Falcone, a circular line 
of cabinets constructed aftet designs 
from the Chevalier Fansaga. 

In the college belonging to this 
church about 600 young men are 
actually instructed in the learned 
languages and literature by the 
Peres Jesuits, who were recalled 
for this purpose in 1821 by the late 
King Ferdinand. 

The square before the church 
contains an obelisk called the Con- 
ception, on account of the statue 
placed on its top. The erection of 
this monument was furthered by 
Father Pepe, a Jesuit, designed by 
the architect Joseph Genuine, and 
directed by Joseph di Fiore, ano- 
ther architect. It is a mass of 
sculptured marble, representing 
angels, saints, and facts relating to 
the history of the Holy Virgin. 



FIFTH DAY: 

From St Dominick's square we 
go up to the right, and soon after 
we find, in a narrow street, called 
Calata di St Severe, 

The CMrch of St Mary of Piety. 
-^This noble edifice was originally 
erected about the year 1590, by 
Prince Don Francis of Sangro, 
patriarch of Alexandria. It was 
afterwards embellished by Don 
Kaymond, of the same family, who 
ornamented it with rich marbles 
and extensive sculptures, which 
were procured at an immense ex- 
pense. Almost ail these sculptures 
were used as ornaments to a series 
of tombs belonging to the same 
family, commencing with that of 
the patriarch above mentioned, 
aud continuing to the death of the 
last prince. . .• 

The whole of the churdfetis 
covered with beautiful marbles ; 
the entablature and chapiters of 
the pilasters are executed with 
taste, after designs by Don Kay- 
mond. Two of the tombs are used 
as altars, and are dedicated to St 
Odeiisio and to St Rosalia, of 
the family of Sangro, whose 
statues are the production of the 
famous Anthony Corradini, a Vene- 
tian. Both sides of the church are 
adorned with eight arcades, Gach of 
which, excepting the two forming 
the entrance, contains a mausoleum, 
with a statue as large as life. In 
each of the pilasters is deposited 
the wife of the illustrious personage 
whose remains occupy the adjoin- 
in g mausoleum. E very monument 
is ornamented with a large statUife, 
representing some of the most 
distinguished virtues of the deceas- 
ed, and her portrait sculptured in a 
medallion; these are executed by 
the Chevalier Fansaga, Santacroeej 
and Queirolo, a Genoese. ■ -< = 

Over the entrance of the church 
is the monument of Don Francis of 
Sangro, who is represented armed 



pIJ^I/ES. —FIFTH DAY.^ CHUBCHES. 



mi 



■with a sword, ;^ helmet, and a 
cuirass; this beautiful specimen of 
sculpture is by Francis Cele.hrano. 
The third arcade on the side of 
the sacristy encloses the tomb of 
Don Raymond: of Saugro.; it is 
adorned with his: portrait, painted 
by Paul Amalfi, to whom is attri- 
buted an inscription, sculptured on 
red marble, with white letters in 
bas-relief, so as, to resemble a 
cameo, the ground and the letters 
forming only one piece of marble; 
the bas-relief which , surrounds 
the inscription is in the same style. 
This extraordinary work was de- 
signed, and executed by,, thejlate 
Prince Don Raymond. , r , j ■; . . ' 

In the pilasters of the arcade of 
the grand alt^r are two fine pieces 
of sculpture, one by Corradini, and 
the other by Queirolo ; the first 
represents the mother of the 
Prince Don Raymond, above men- 
tioned, under the figure of Modesty, 
a virtue for which this princess 
was distinguished. She is clothed 
in a transparent veil, through 
which the form of the body may 
be seen, a style of sculpture un- 
known even to the Greeks and 
Romans; the ancients have only 
painted, but never sculptured a 
veil. 

The other extraordinary work of 
art represents the father of the 
same prince, under the figure of 
Vice undeceived ; because this 
prince, having taken leave of 
worldly concerns after the death of 
his wife, became a priest, and died 
with the reputation of being a vir- 
tuous man. The statue represents a 
man entangled in a large net, from 
which he is endeavouring to escape 
by the assistance of his mind, re- 
presented as a Genius, who is 
endeavouring to extricate him ; 
the net is sculptured frojn the same 
piece of marble, although it scarcely 
touches the statue. This is a spe- 
cimen of skill, which stands almost 
UBfiyailed in the art of ^eulpture. 



The grand altar is adorned with 
a bas - relief in marble, repre- 
senting Mount Calvary, with the 
passion of Our Saviour, a very fine 
work by Celebrano. , On the upper 
part of the altar is the image of 
St Mary of piety, which was found 
in the ancient church. The paint-, 
ing on the ceiling of this altar is an 
extraordinary production ; the per-, 
spective is so admirably managed, 
that it deceives the eye, and 
changes the flat surface of the ceil- 
ing into a cupola, which appears 
to receive . . Jight from its sum- 
mit. , •; "Jj- '!■: .. .}.•:■> ->li. '■-:!■: i..:^ 

In this church is the celebrated* 
Dead Christ, resembling in beauty of 
execution the statues of Modesty 
and Vice undeceived, just men- 
tioned. Christ is covered with a 
veil, through which may be distin- 
guished the form, and even the 
muscles, of the body ; this veil 
appears slightly moistened by the 
perspiration of death, and the 
whole figure is a striking exhibi- 
tion of sublimity and resignation. 
This extraordinary work was de- 
signed by the celebrated Corradini, 
but his death having taken place 
in 1751, it was executed by Joseph 
Sammartino, a Neapolitan: great 
skill and ability are displayed in this 
most difficult undertaking. ■ .; 

In the subterranean church are 
deposited the descendants of the 
illustrious family of Sangra; -^iii: r.r 

Not far from this palace ds' the 
church of St Angelo a NUo, founded 
in 1380 by Cardinal Renaud Bran- 
caccio, whose beautiful tomb in the 
choir was executed by Donatello, 
an excellent Florentine sculptor. 

Besides the church the founder 
established an hospital, which ex- 
isted till the time of the invasion of 
the kingdom by the French. 

From St Angelo a Nilo go through 
a narrow and long street to 

The Church of St Saviour. — This 
church, which was formerly called 
Giesu Vecchio to distinguish it from 



7g2f 



SOUTHERlir TiALY. — FIFTH DAT. CHtTRCHES. 



that of Gesu Nuovo, and belonged to 
the Peres Pieux Jesuits, was built 
about the year 1566, after designs 
by Pere Peter Provedo. It is taste- 
fully adorned with beautiful mar- 
bles, statues, and paintings, by 
Erancis Mura, CaBsar Fracanzano, 
Solimene, Mark of Sienne, and 
other artists. This church, from 
the critical circumstances of the 
times, had been quite forsaken and 
deserted, so that it was no longer 
possible to exertise the sacred func- 
tions there. It has been since 
restored by the piety of the faithful,- 
through the cares of the Rev. D. 
Placido Baccker,its present curate, 
and now it may be said to have 
become one of the neatest churches 
in Naples^ ■ 

The adjacent house contains the 
university of study, as well as two 
colleges for the education of youth, 
and the academy of sciences and 
belles-lettres, founded in 1780. 
This magnificent house has a large 
court, with two rows of piazzas, and 
a beautiful staircase of great ex- 
tent : it has likewise a mineralogic 
museum, a, fine collection of philo- 
sophical instruments, and the ca- 
binets belonging to the several 
branches of learning. 

Return to the street of St Biagio 
dei Librari, and thence to that della 
Vicaria, in which is 

The Church of St Paul. — It was 
on this spot, at a time when Naples 
was under the dominion of Greece, 
that Julius Tarsus, being freed by 
Tiberius, erected at his own ex- 
pense, on the side of the public 
theatre, a superb temple dedicated 
to Castor and Pollux, as the Greek 
inscription on the frieze of the en- 
tablature indicated. 

On the ruins of this temple was 
constructed, about the end of the 
eighth century, a large church, 
which had three naves, and the 
interior columns of the old building, 
as well aa the ancient front, were 
ii^aideMise pf tpi adorn ;iti , This 



church was given in the year 1538 
to the fathers Teatines, and in 1581 
the vault of the choir being me- 
naced with ruin, they pulled down 
all the old church, and rebuilt it, 
not from designs by father Gri- 
maldi, but after those of another 
father, preserving the front of the 
ancient temple. As to the columns, 
they were removed, instead of being 
left within the walls of the chutch, 
as asserted by some author, for it 
was entirely renewed from the 
ground. These columns are now 
in the court of the adjacent housei-' 
Other ancient columns, eight iix 
number, adorned the front of the ■ 
churcli, four of which fell during^ 
the earthquake of the 5th June, 
1688. Of the other four, which 
were left uninjured, two may still 
be sieen at their place : the other 
two arose at the bottom of the 
flight of stairs upon the same basis 
which are there at present ; but the 
fathers caused these two columns 
to be removed from fear of some 
accident. 

This church is one of the finest 
in Naples. Its vault is stuccoed, and 
painted by Belisario Corenzio, and 
the Chevalier Massimo Stanziotii. 
The grand altar is composed of fine 
marbles and alabasters ; and the 
tabernacle of valuable stones with 
ornaments of gilt brass. There are 
in this church numerous chapels, 
enriched with beautiful marble, 
sculptures, and paintings. Under 
the chapel of St Cajetan is a sub- 
terranean one consecrated to the 
same saint, the vault of which was 
painted by the Chevalier Solimena; 
Behind the altal* are preserved the 
bodies of that saint and of John Ma- 
rinonio, as well as those of other illus-* 
trious Teatines. Both the lower and 
upper chapels are entirely of choice 
marbles. The chapel of St An- 
drew Avellino consists likewise of 
fine marbles. The altar is of va- 
luable stones, and gilt brass. Ad 
urn of this metal is seen upon it, 



NAfLES.— riPTia DAY. CHURCHES. 



793 



containing the body of the saint. 
An ancient picture, most worthy of 
notice, is seen in the chapel, called 
della Purita. It represents the 
Holy Virgin. This chapel was 
painted by the Chevalier Massimo 
istanzioni, and it contains four sta- 
tues of white marble, representing 
the Cardinal Virtues, This is the 
work of Andrew Falcone, rinally , 
a very ancient picture, by an able 
though unknown author, may be 
observed in the chapel of St Peter 
and St Paul, where are also four 
cabinets, containing fifty- two bodies 
of martyrs im as many chests. 

The sacristy is one of the hand- 
somest in Naples, and is particu- 
larly remarkable for the beauty of 
its decorations and paintings, which 
are all by Solimene. Near the 
«mali entrance to the chapel is an 
ancient column, which was found 
in the temple of Neptune; it is 
about four feet in diameter, and 
twenty-eight feet in height. 

The adjacent house has two 
courts, one of which is surrounded 
by columns of granite, taken irom 
the ancient church. Several stairs 
lead from the second court to the 
corridors inhabited by the fathers. 
Thence may be seen the remains of 
an ancient wall of a theatre, where, 
according to the testimony of Se- 
neca and Tacitus, the Emperor 
Nero appeared for the first time in 
public, to sing the verses which he 
had composed- It was also through 
this theatre that Seneca passed 
every day, on hi« way to hear the 
lessons of the philosopher Metro- 
nactus, when he complained that 
he saw so many persons going to 
the spectacle, and eo few to the 
house of the philosopher- Thus 
even the wise heatliens knew that 
the ways of sensuality aredangerous 
and despicable. 

A short distance divides ■ the 
church of St Paul from 

The Church of St Philip Neri, 
called also Dei Gerolimini. r— The 



glorious St Philip Neri,in the year 
1592, with the produce of consider- 
able alms, founded this church, 
which is one of the most remark- 
able in Naples. The front is en- 
tirely of marble, and was executed 
about sixty years ago from designs 
by the Chevalier Fuga. The statues 
with which it is ornamented are 
by Sammartino. ■. The church con- 
tains three naves, divided by twelve 
granite columns of the Corinthian 
order, executed from the designs of 
Denis Lazari. There are several 
chapels, most of which are adorned 
with marble ornaments, gilt stuc- 
coes, and paintings by Pomaranci, 
Paul de Matteis, Santa Fede, and 
Jordans. 

The grand altar was composed of 
valuable stones ; but towards the 
end of the last century it was pulled 
down. It is at present of stucco, 
but another is making of marble, 
with a tabernacle of valuable 
stones. 

The chapel of St Philip Neri, on 
the right, is extremely splendid; 
the picture on the altar is a fine 
copy of the original, hy Guido, at 
Eome; and the fresco paintings on 
the ceiling of the small cupola and 
at the angles are by Solimene. 
The picture of the chapel of St 
Francis is by Guido. The chapel 
on the right of the grand altar 
contains six statues, sculptured by 
Peter Bernini, the father of the 
famous Laurent of Rome. The 
picture representing the agony of 
St Alexis, in the last chaj^l, is by 
Peter da Cortona. 

The sacristy is embellished with 
many fine pictures, amongst which 
maybe mentioned the Flight into 
Egypt, by Guido Eeni; the Virgin 
with the infant Jesus and St John, 
thought to be by Eaphael ; the 
" Ecce homo," and the apostle St 
Andrew, by Spagnoletto ; and some 
other pictures, supposed to be paint- 
ed by Dominiehino But the princi- 
pal picture admired here is that 



i-7S^ 



SOUTHSKN ITMLY^—SlXtH I>AY. CfltRCHES. 



by Guido, representing St John 
meeting the Lord. There is be- 
sides a picture on wood, exhibiting 
the Adoration of the Magi, by 
Andrew Sabatino of Salerno, in 
which several portraits are painted. 
Among them are those of Ferdi- 
nand I of Arragon, Alphonso I, 
John Gioviano Pontano, Raphael, 
and another, which seems to be 
that of Bernard Tasso, the father 
ofTorquata i; fs^-.iu; ^j-a v:^. 

The house adjoinl»g >this ' church 
contains one- of the most celebrated 
libraries^ in Naples^ both- on account 
of the value, as well as the number 
of the books. It has been particu- 
larly enriched by an excellent 
library of the advocate Joseph Val- 
letta, which consisted of a hundred 
and fifty thousand volumes, almost 
all of the best Greek, Latin, Italian, 
Prench, and English authors. It 
possesses besides a great number of 
ancient manuscripts, among which 
is a Summa by St Thomas. 

SIXTH DAY., -i^.,,,, 

From Toledo proceed through 
the streets of St Biagio dei Librari 
:and the Vicaria, to 

The Cathedral Church of St Ja- 
nuarius. — The ancient cathedral, 
dedicated to St Kestituta, was built 
during the reign of Constantine the 
Great, on the remains of the Temple 
of Apollo. In 1280 Charles I of 
Anjou commenced the erection of 
a large and magnificent cathedral, 
which he still further augmented 
by demolishing part of the church 
of St Restituta. This extensive 
building, which was finished by 
Charles II in 1299, having fallen 
down during the earthquake of 1456, 
Alphonso I, king of I^aples, rebuilt 
it after the designs of Nicolas Pi- 
sanoi ; . 

The front 'of this grand temple 
was first erected in 1407, and re- 
stored in 1788. The interior and 
exterior architecture of this churcli 



is Gothic, and the whole is magni- 
ficently adorned with figures in 
bas-relief, and other ornaments'; 
on each side of the door are two 
beautiful columns of porphyry. 

In the interior of this church are 
a great number of chapels, and one 
hundred and ten columns of Egyp- 
tian and African granite, preserved 
from the remains of the ancient 
temple of Apollo ; around each 
pilaster are placed three of these 
columns, covered with stucco, which 
divide the church into three naves j 
the other columns may be seen 
under the arches and in the chapels. 
The grand altar, which is entirely 
composed of choice marbles, was 
renjodelled in 1744, after designs 
by the Chevalier Paul Posi. On 
the upper part of' this altar is a 
beautiful marble statue, represent- 
ing the Assumption, executed by 
Peter Bracci; The two ancient 
candelabra- arejiwell^ worthy of 
notice. 

A double staircase leads to the 
subterranean church, which is co- 
vered with white marble, and orna- 
mented with bas-reliefs, arabesques, 
and very neat figures of various 
kinds. The ceiling is finished 
in the antique style, and is sup- 
ported by ten columns of cipollino. 
The body of St Januarius, bishop 
of Beneventum, and the great pa- 
tron of Naples, is deposited under 
the grand altar. This subterranean 
church was made in 1492, by Car- 
dinal Oliviero Carafia, archbishop 
of Naples, whose statue, in the act 
of kneeling, behind the altar, is 
supposed to be the work of Buo- 
narotti. 

Returning to the upper church, 
we see in the window on the right 
of the grand altar, four pictures by 
Jordans, and in the opposite win- 
dow four others by Soiimene, be- 
sides which there is one represent- 
ing the Annunciation, by Peter Pe- 
rugino, the master of Raphael. The 
paintings on the ceiling of the 



NAPLES.— SIXTH BAY. CHURCHES. 



7§5 



principal nave are by Santafede, 
and the pictures by John Vincent 
Forii. The tombs of Charles of 
Anjou, of Charles Martello, and 
of his wife Clemence, are situ- 
ated over the great door of tlie 
church. Over the small doors are 
two pictures by George Vasari. 
The left side of the great door pre- 
sents an antique vase of Egyptian 
basalt, raised on a pedestal of por- 
phyry, and remarkable for its bas- 
reliefs, represaiting the attributes 
of Bacchus. .;■• '> n.(.:Jh'f>;- /-rKir 

The sacristy is adorned iwith 
numerous paintings, amongst which 
may be found portraits of all the 
bishops and' archbishops of Na- 
ples. The cabinet on the side of the 
altar is used as the depository of 
jiumerous valuable relics. 
■ Amongst the sepulchral monu- 
ments of this church is that of 
Innocent IV, who died at Naples in 
1254. The front of the chapel 
Caracciolo is likewise adorned with 
the tomb of Cardinal Innico Carac- 
ciolo, archbishop of Naples. This 
monument is celebrated for the 
beauty of its composition ; three 
children are seen exhibiting a me- 
dallion on which is sculptured the 
portrait of the cardinal ; the lower 
part of the dress is turned aside to 
display a skeleton, holding an hour 
glass. Peter Ghetti was the artist 
of this fine sculpture, which appears 
to have furnished the idea for that 
beautiful composition of Bernini 
(mentioned in the Itinerary of 
Rome, in the description of the 
tomb of Alexander VII, of the 
house Chigi), now at Eome in the 
cathedral of St Peter. 

The church of St Januarius en- 
closes that of St Restituta, which 
was formerly the cathedral. It was 
erected, as we have said, in the time 
of Constantine, on the ruins of the 
temple of Apollo, to which were 
attached the columns now support- 
ing the nave. This church was for 
many centuries the cathedral of 



Naples, before the erection of the 
new building, which belongs to the 
Canons, established by, Constantino, 
fourteen of whom were appointed 
to officiate there. The lower part 
of the great attar contains an an- 
tique basin of white marble. Thes 
two Corinthian columns on the side 
of this altar are likewise autique. 
The next object demanding atten- 
tion is the chapel of St John the Bap- 
tist, surnamed.a Fonte, because Con- 
stantine the Great had erected bap- 
tismal fonts there, in memory of his 
baptism, as he had done at Rome, 
in the church called St John in 
Fonte; he likewise erected the bap- 
tistery, on the side of the cathedral 
of St John of Laterano. The grand 
basalt vase, which we have pre- 
viously mentioned in the cathedral 
church, was likewise used for the 
purpose of baptism. The cupola 
of this chapel is covered with re- 
presentations of historical facts, in 
very ancient mosaic work. 

Opposite the church of St Resti- 
tuta is the chapel of St Januarius, 
called the Treasure, not only be- 
cause it cost nearly a million of 
ducats, but because it contains im- 
mense riches. It was erected in 
1 608, at the expense of the Neapo- 
litan people, in consequence of a 
vow made, when this town was 
afllicted by the plague in 1526. 
This chapel is of a circular form, 
and is decorated with seven altars. 
The building was erected from 
designs by P. Grimaldi Theatine, 
with the exception of the exterior 
front, which was executed after the 
design of Chevalier Pansaga. Art 
and splendour seem to have con- 
curred in the formation of this ex- 
traordinary chapel, which is en- 
riched with every kind of orna- 
ment. The exterior front is com- 
posed of black and white marble, 
with two large columns, supporting 
the architrave; the sides of the 
door, which is of bronze, are 
adorned with two niches, containing 



796 



SOUTflEEN ITALY. — SIXTH DAT. CHURCHES. 



the Statues of St Peter and St Paul, 
executed by Julian Pinelli. The 
upper ornaments were executed 
by DelCosset, a Frenchman. 

The interior of this chapel, which 
resembles a church in magnificence, 
is decorated with twenty -four co- 
lumns of the Corinthian order, of 
brocatello marble, between which 
are placed, on fete days, thirty-six 
silver busts of the patron saints, 
executed by Pinelli, as well as 
eighteen busts of bronze, by inferior 
artists. On the upper part of the 
grand altar is the statue of St Janu- 
arius, represented seated and ready 
to bless the people; In a small ta- 
bernacle with silver doors are pre- 
served the head and two vials of 
the saint's blood, said to have been 
collected by a Neapolitan lady dur- 
ing his martyrdom. This blood be- 
comes miraculously liquid when- 
ever it is placed before the head of 
St Januarius. The ceremony of 
this miracle is repeated three times 
a year; that is, during eight days 
of the month of May, eight days of 
the month of September, and on the 
day of protection, the 1 6th of Decem- 
ber. This miracle is to the Neapo- 
litans a constant object of devotion 
and astonishment, of which no one 
who has not been present can form 
a just idea. When the liquefaction 
of the blood takes place, immedi- 
ately the joy of the people knows 
no bounds; but if the operation of 
the miracle is retarded one moment, 
the cries and groanings of the peo- 
ple rend the air; for at Naples the 
procrastination of this miracle is 
Considered the presage of some 
great misfortune : but the devotion 
and faith of the Neapolitans, par- 
ticularly of the women, are so great, 
that the blood never fails to become 
liquid, and resume its consistency 
on each of the eight days; so that 
every one may see and kiss the 
blood of St Januarius, in as liquid 
a state as when it first issued from 
his veins. The city of Naples has | 



several times been in danger of 
being destroyed by the eruptions of 
Mount Vesuvius, by earthquakes, 
and by other calamities, such as 
war, pestilence, &c., but it has 
always been deUvered from them 
by its patron saint. 

The pictures in both the large 
chapels, and those in the four small 
chapels, are all painted on copper, 
by different artists. The picture 
in the great chapel, on the right of 
the grand altar, is the production 
of the celebrated Dominichino; that 
on the grand altar, opposite, is by 
Spagnoletto. Three of the pictures 
in the small chapels are by Domi- 
nichino, and one by Chevalier Mas- 
simo. All the fresco paintings 
with which the ceilings and angles 
of this great chapel are adorned, 
are likewise by Dominichino, who 
had commenced the painting of 
the cupola, but death put a period 
to his exertions. This cupola was 
afterwards painted with consider- 
able ability by the Chevalier Lan- 
franc, who however effaced all the 
work which had been executed by 
Dominichino. 

The sacristy abounds with sacred 
articles of immense value. 

On the right of the cathedral 
stands the archiepiscopal palace, 
the principal apartment of which 
is ornamented with frescoes painted 
by the Chevalier Lanfranc. This 
palace contains several congrega- 
tions and rehgious assemblies, each 
of which haA^e a particular object. 
There are likewise two seminaries 
for young persons, one of which is 
an urban, and the other a diocesan 
school. 

On leaving the church by the 
small gate, we perceive in the square 
the obelisk of St Januarius, erected 
by the Neapolitan people in 1 660, 
after the design of Chevalier Cosmo 
Fansaga. This monument is well 
worthy of notice, for the beauty of 
its design, as well as tlie manner in 
which it is executed; the bronze 



NAPLES.— SIXTH DAY. CfitJRCHES. 



«itatue of St Jaauarius, on the sum- 
mit of this obelisk^ i is fey Julian 
Finelii. -.-..vfu 

From St Jamiarius we go up 
along the streets leading to the 
gate which bears the same name, in 
one of wliich we find 

The Church of the Holy Apostles. 
—This church is very ancient, hav- 
ing been buUt by Constantine on 
the ruins of an ancient temple of 
Mercury. It was since restored 
several times, till the family Carac- j 
ciolo, to whom it belonged, gave it I 
up to the Rev. Peres Teatines, which I 
happened in the year 1570. They i 
rebuilt it from designs left by father ' 
Grimaldi, of the same order, and the ! 
execution of the work was directed 
by the engineer, James Conforti. 
Tiiis church is among the most 
beautiful and magnificent in Naples. 
All the paintings which may be 
observed on its ceiling, as weU as 
the four Evangelists in the angles of 
the cupola, are the exquisite pro- 
ductions of the Chevalier Laufranc. 
The cupola was painted by Benasca 
of Turin, who is also the author of 
the fresco in the chapel of St 
Michael. The oil paintings on the 
arches of the chapels are by Soh- 
mene, and the others by Jordans. 
The upper part of the great en- 
trance of the church exhibits a fine 
paiuting by Viviani, representing 
the pool of Snoam. 

The grand altar was designed 
by the Chevalier Fuga. The same 
altar and the tabernacle are entirely 
composed of precious stones and 
gilt brass- The design of the taber- 
nacle was drawn by the above- 
mentioned father Grimaldi. Five 
j)ictures, by Solimene, may be seen 
in the choir. The chapel on the 
right of the grand altar was erected 
from designs by the Chevalier Bor- 
romini, and is ornamented with 
five pictures and two portraits in 
mosaic, copied by John Baptiste 
Calandra from the ,«|^j^^i^ , by 
Guido. , : i-fi JMjy ib-rr/i ■ 



Between the altar of this chapel, 
and the mosaic, is seen a very 
handsome picture representing se- 
veral httle boys. The fore part of 
the altar consists of a single piece 
of marble, upon which are sculp- 
tured in , bas-relief the emblems 
of the four Evangelists, a produc- 
tion of the celebrated Fleming. 
This plate is supported by two 
lions of marble, sculptured by 
Julian Finelii, of Carrara. Oppo- 
site this chapel is that of the Con- 
ception, the altar of which is com- 
posed of valuable stones and gilt 
brass. The whole chapel is orna- 
mented with beautiful marbles. The 
pictures which are seen there, ex- 
ecuted upon brass, are by Solimene. 
Those which may be observed upon 
the upper sides of these two cha- 
pels are by Jordans. The chapel 
of St JVIichael contains a picture 
by Marco da Sienne. The fresco, as 
we said before, is the work of 
Benasca. 

Underneath this church is a large 
cemetery, in which is buried the 
Chevalier Mariui, a celebrated Nea- 
politan poet, who died in the year 
1625, at twenty-nine years of age. 
The tomb is adorned with his bust, 
painted and cro^Tied with laurel. 
It bears an inscription, and the em- 
blems of the Muses, with another 
inscription under them. There 
is besides a Mttle step upon the 
pavement, supporting a marble 
plate, with an. epigram engraved 
upon it. / • .; r. . . 

The magnificence of the adjoining 
building is not inferior to that of the 
church. It contained a Hbrary and 
an archive in which several ancient 
manuscripts were preserved. Both 
the latter and the hbrary have 
been removed. A part of the ma- 
nuscripts are now in the public 
hbrary at the Academia degli 
Studi. 

We take, now again the way 
leading to Por|^St Gennaro, near 
which is .^..<r 

' R 2 



798 



SOUTMfiiif ITAEf .^^jglXT'ff DAt. *ffiE ^ICAiltl. 



71h)e Ildspital for the Incutdble. — 
This piotis estafelishment was cota- 
menced in 1519, by a charitable 
lady called Maria Lorenza Longo ; 
it \tas afterwards augmented by 
several donations, particularly by 
that of Gaspard Ronaer, a rich 
merchant of Flanders. It is capa- 
ble of containing upwards df 1,000 
persons, and there are about as 
many at present, both men and 
women. Sick people are received 
here from all parts of the kingdom, 
and even foreigners, whatever their 
infirmity may be. It is likewise a 
place of refuge for young women 
who wish to retire from the world. 
Separate rooms have been lately 
arranged here for the admission of 
those infirm who offer to pay a 
Tent. 

The hospital is furnished with 
four Clinic schools, namely, of 
physic, surgery, midwifery, and 
ophthalmy. There is besides a 
theatre of anatomy, where public 
lessons of anatomy are given, and 
a college for young people w:ho 
wish to be instructed in the healing 
'rart. ;"--^ - 

■ TH§ -ntext object of attention, 
situated near Porta Capuana, is the 
church vulgarly called 
'- 'St Catherine a Formello^— It was 
lamlt in 1533, together with a con- 
vent, by the Dominicans, who em- 
ployed Anthony Delia Cava as the 
architect. The convent has been 
since suppressed, and the church is 
at present a parochial one under 
the title of St Tomhlaso della Re- 
gione Capuana. It is decorated 
with fine marbles, pictures, and 
paintings, by good authors. The 
fresco on the door is by Luigi 
Garzi, who painted likewise the 
ceiling of the church. The pic- 
tures representing the defeat of the 
Albigesi, and the whole chapel of 
St Catherine, are executed by Del 
To. Marco da Sienne, the author of 
the picture representing the Con- 
version of St Paul. There is ano- 



their bj^ 'Bua&cs, '^Representing tfte 
Adoration of the Magi, The cupola 
of this church was painted by JDe 
Matteis^ and it deserves the more 
to be observed as it was the first 
erected in Naples. '- 

Not far from this church, towards 
the interior of the town, we find 

The Viearia. — This edifice was 
formerly called Castel Capuano, on 
account of its vicinity to the gate 
of that name. It is a very exten- 
sive and isolated place, surfounded 
by high and strong walls resembling 
a fort. William I, king of Naples, 
built this palace for a residence'; 
and it was inhabited by his suc- 
cessors till the time of I'erdinand I. 
Don Peter of Toledo, "viceroy of 
Naples, having afterwards con- 
structed a larger and more cona- 
modious habitation for the royal 
residence, converted the palace %f 
Yicaria into courts of justice. 
This alteration took place in 1540. 

These courts, or tribunals, are 
the Tribunale Civile, corresponding 
to that of Premiere Instance in 
France ; the Gran Corte Civile 
being a court of appeal, and the 
(jran Corte Criminale the high 
court of justice for criminal 
affairs. In each of these courts 
are halls for the judges, and for 
the inferior officers. The judges' 
rooms are ornamented with paint- 
ings representing the attributes of 
Justice; and a chapel belongs to 
each tribunal, where the holy mass 
is celebrated every day, especially 
for the judges. Upstairs are the 
great general archives of the king- 
dom, containing a vefy large col- 
lection of diplomas and ancient 
parchments. ' " '' f 

The Vicaria besides contains fhfe 
largest prisons in Naples- and a 
Commissaire de Police is established 
here for the preservation of order. 
A short distance from the Vicaria 
stands the ''^^■^'■'- 

Church of the Anriuneiatmii-.—^This 
church and the adjoining house 



NAPLES. — SIXTH DAT. MARKET SQUARE. 



(99 



were erected by Queen Sancia, wife 
of King Robert, and afterwards 
augmented in 1343 by Queen Jane 
n. The church, however, was re- 
built with great magnificence in 
1540. It was ornamented with 
marbles and paintings by Lan- 
franc and Jordans, as well as with 
sculptures by Bernini and Merliano ; 
but the conflagration of 1757 hav- 
ing destroyed this magnificent 
temple, its re-erection was again 
commenced, and finished in 1782, 
on the plan of the Chevalier Van- 
viteUi, at an expense of 260,000 
ducats. This church, which has 
three naves, divided by marble 
columns, is one of the most remark- 
able in Naples for the beauty of its 
architecture. The paintings of the 
grand altar and those of the win- 
dows are by Francis de Mura ; and 
the Prophets, on the angles of the 
cupola, are •; the ;. productions of 
Fischietti, • .uiv:n'i 

In going toward the grand altar 
we find near it, on the right side, 
the chapel of St Buono, where there 
is a magnificent picture by Spag- j 
noletto, representing Piety. Some j 
canvas has been joined on roimd it j 
in order to preserve better the ori- 
ginal ; but the best picture in this 
church is that which is seen near 
the baptistery in the chapel of the 
Conception. It represents the Holy 
Virgin under the title Delia Grazie, 
and is constantly looked upon as an 
original work of Eaphael. 

The traveller will not see without 
admiration the sacristy of this 
church. It is covered aU around 
with nut wood carved aU over, and 
representing the whole history of 
the New Testament. This stu- 
pendous work was executed by 
John, called de Nola. The paint- 
ings on the ceiling of the same 
sacristy, representing several events 
belonging to the Old Testament, are 
the work of Behsario Corenzio. 

This sacristry, the chapel ojapo- 
site it, and the room called the 



treasury, are the only remains of 
the ancient temple, which, as we 
said before, became a prey to the 
flames. In the treasury two niches 
are seen, containing relics of two 
bodies of the Innocents killed by 
order of Herod. They were given 
to the church by Queen Jane U ; 
they then lay in chests of silver. 
They are at present within chests 
of wood bright as silver. 

Underneath this church there is 
another, having two doors, which 
give it entrance into two courts. 
This subterranean edifice is remark- 
ably fine on account of its round 
form, enhanced by six altars. It is 
likewise admired for the lightness 
of its roof, supported by granite 
columns, and in the middle of 
which is an opening, by which light 
is introduced frQjn. the upper 

church. :;i!/' ji! ir; , -iu : liilA 

Contiguous to it is a house, wMch 
formerly served as an hospital 
This has been suppressed, but found- 
lings are still received here ; and 
from their number, a society was 
formed six years ago, consisting 
of 100 girls, who live together 
and apply themselves to several 
trades. r ;>; . 

A rather long way leads from the 
Annunziata to 

The Market Square. — This is the 
largest square in Naples, and the 
market held here on Monday and 
Friday may perhaps be considered 
as one of the largest fairs in the 
kingdom. All kinds of provisions 
may be procured. The houses in 
the environs of this square are in- 
habited by the lowest classes of the 
people. 

This square has been the scene 
of two dreadful events — the assas- 
sination of the yoimg Conradin, and 
the popular revolution of Masaniello. 
Conradin was to become king of Na- 
ples, as the heir of his father, the Em- 
peror Conrad. He repaired to Naples, 
accompanied by Frederick, duke of 
Austria, with an army to conquer 



800 



SOUTHERN IT ALT. — SIXTH BAT. CHURCH OP ST MART. 



the city, arid rescue it frofii the 
dominion of Charles of Anjou, whose 
claims were recognised by the pope, 
Clement VI. Charles of Anjou, 
however, defeated them. They 
were betrayed in their flight, de- 
livered into his hands, arid decapi- 
tated in this square on the 26th of 
October, 1268 ; this is perhaps the 
only example of a sovereign con- 
demned to death by another sove- 
reign. On the spot where this base 
execution took place a small chapel 
with a cross was erected. There 
was likewise a porphyry column, 
surrounded by these two verses: — 

" Asturis ungue, Leo pullum rapiens aqui- 
linum, 
Hie deplumavit, acephalumqiie dedit.'' 

These lines allude to the imperial 
eagle, and to the name of the Aus- 
trian nobleman who gave up Con- 
radin to the king of Naples ; but 
this chapel was destroyed in the 
conflagration of the year 1781. 

The revolt of Masaniello likewise 
commenced at this spot on the 16th 
of June, 1647, in consequence of 
the imposition of a tax on fruit by 
the viceroy, Duke Arcos, who had 
added this to the heavy burdens 
under which the inhabitants of 
Naples were already groaning. 
(See the account of this revolt in 
the History of Naples.) This in- 
surrection of the people afforded a 
fine subject for several painters of 
that period, such as Salvator Rosa, 
Andrew Falconi, Fraeanzano, 
Micco Spartaro, who each painted 
the scene on the market place. 
Michael Angelo of Bambochades 
likewise employed his talents on 
this occasion in painting the beau- 
tiful picture now in the Spada 
Gallery at Rome. 

On this square is 

The Church of St Mary of the 
Carmelites.— This church is much 
frequented on account of its situa- 
tion, as well as owing to the general 
religious character of the Neapolitan 



people. It was originally veiy 
small, but was considerably en- 
larged in 1269 by the Empress 
Margaret of Austria, the mother of 
the ill-fated Conradin. She re- 
paired to Naples, in order to rescue 
her son out of the hands of Charles 
of Anjou ; but the unfortunate 
Conradin having been decapitated 
some days before her arrival, she 
had no other consolation than that 
of providing his funeral, and apply- 
ing to this church the sums of 
money which she had prepared for 
the ransom of her son. She caused 
his body to be transferred from the 
chapel of the cross in this church, 
where it had been buried, to a spot 
behind the grand altar. 

This church is extremely magni- 
ficent, and is ornamented with mar- 
bles, gilt stuccoes, and paintings by 
Solimene, Jordans, and Matteis. 
On the grand altar is an ancient 
image of the Virgin, which, it is 
pretended, was painted by St Luke ; 
there is likewise a crucifix, which 
is held in great veneration by the 
Neapolitans. 

A statue of the Empress Margaret 
was in the court of tlie adjoining 
house. It is now in the Academia 
degli Studi. The steeple, which 
rises over this entrance, is more lofty 
than that of any other church in 
Naples. 

The castle of the Carmelites, 
which is contiguous to tlie church, 
and to the house above mentioned, 
was originally a simple tower, 
erected by Ferdinand of Arragon 
in 1484. It was afterwards con- 
verted into a square form, and aug- 
mented by a bastion, in order that 
it might be a better defence to the 
town. Having been the principal 
fortress of the city during the re- 
volt of Masaniello, in 1647, it was 
fortified, and in 1648 was formed 
into a castle. 

From this square we return along 
the quay. 



NAPLES. — ^ENVIRONS. POZZUOLI. 



801 



ENVIRONS OF NAPLES. 

WESTERN EXCURSION. 

COAST OF POZZUOtI, BAIA, BAULl, 
AND CUjVLS;. 

This district, which is situated in 
the western part of the kingdom of 
Naples, between Posilippo and Lin- 
temum, was formerly called Happy 
Country, but is now denominated 
the Land of Labour. Indeed, it is 
the most extraordinary country in 
the world ; independently of its as- 
tonishing fertility, nature presents 
very singular phenomena in the 
volcanoes, which are not yet ex- 
tinct. This spot has been cele- 
brated by the fables of antic[uity, in 
which it has been made the seat of 
pagan superstition ; and, conse- 
quently, the resort of an immense 
number of persons. The residence 
of the Orientals in this country has 
likewise contributed to its fame. 
When the Romans rendered them- 
sdves the masters of the known 
world, the coast of Pozzuoli became 
the centre of their enjoyments ; 
they embellished it with magnifi- 
cence, and here they scattered the 
treasures which they had taken 
from other nations. On these 
shores they found everything that 
could tend to refresh their spirits, 
or remove the diseases of their 
bodies ; a mild and temperate cli- 
mate, a fertile soil, and, in short, a 
freedom unknown to large capitals. 
From that period the coast became 
gradually covered with country 
houses, and public and prl,vate 
buildings of the most sumptuous 
description. The villas were built 
in the form of towns. 

The prosperity of Pozzuoli fell 
with the prosperity of the Roman 
empire ; this beautiful district i 
became desolate and uncultivated, 
and the air unhealthy and per- j 
nicious ; the great number of towns, 
formerly so populous and flourish- 
ing, no longer exist, and it is with 



difSculty that even the traces of 
their ancient grandeur may be dis- 
covered. Pozzuoli now presents 
the sad spectacle of a declining 
population, though at every step 
appear the vestiges of ancient 
monuments, calculated to stimulate 
curiosity and excite admiration. 
The phenomena of nature, which 
have outbraved the vicissitudes to 
which the works of human art are 
liable, still call for attention. 
Beneficent nature has aflbrded 
relief to disease in the number and 
diversity of the mineral waters, 
which are here visible. The ex- 
traordinary character of the pheno- 
mena, and the important objects 
existing in the vicinity of Pozzuoli, 
have induced us to give an account 
of them for the assistance of tra- 
vellers. 

Till within a few years, the only 
way to Pozzuoli was through the 
grotto of Posilippo, beyond which the 
traveller could proceed either by 
the valley of Bagnoli, and along the 
sea shore, or by the lake of Agnano 
and the Solfatra, following, in the 
latter case, narrow by-paths. We 
shall take this last way on our 
return, taking at present the new 
road of Posilippo; that we may enjoy 
it in its natural direction. 

New Road of Posilippo. — This road, 
starting from the point of Mergel- 
lina, extends along the hill of 
Posilippo to the western extremity 
of Capo Coroglio, opposite the islet 
of Nisida. In traversing it the 
traveller may observe with some 
admiration on the sea side the 
several bridges, forming a part of 
the road, that have been thrown 
over the clefts which intersected 
the hUl. The whole road, although 
it gradually rises to the above- 
mentioned cape, is nevertheless so 
constructed as to appear almost on 
a level ; and its length is , abpyp 
two miles. f. ; j 

At the beginning of the road, on 
the right side, there is a small 



802 SOUTHERN ITALT.^ — ENVIRONS 01* NAPLES. SCHOOL OF VIRGIL. 



cottage newly repaired, which Is 
said to have been the habitation 
of Sannazaro. It stands upon a 
hill. 

A very large majestic building 
is observed a little farther On the 
left side. It bears an imperfect and 
ruinous appearance, and when seen 
more nearly, it is found to be the 
embryo of an immense palace. It 
is commonly called Palazzo di ogrii 
Anna (the palace' of every Anne) a 
corrupted appellation, the origin of 
which cannot be easily traced. 
Perhaps it should be Palazzo di 
Donna Anna (Lady Anne's palace), 
adopting the opinion that such was 
the' Christian name of a Lady 
Carafa, who built it ; but from an 
inscription in marble, to be seen 
upon the gate on the sea shore, it 
appears that this bulky mass was 
at first erected by the princes of 
Stiglianb, and that a Prince of 
Thora, in the year 1711, undertook 
to repair it, when it began to fall th 
ruin, in honour of his Lady Magda- 
len. These repairs, however, were 
spori given up ; the palace stands in 
a beautiful position, and its archi- 
tecture, still more fine, is that of 
Cosimo. It is not improbable that 
the contiguity of the new road will 
suggest the idea of having at length 
the edifice finished. From this 
palace to Capo Coroglio the traveller 
may observe the numerous new 
hiouses and palaces, which give a 
lively and magnificent appearance. 
Beneath the same road several 
ancient ruins are seen hear the sea, 
but no exact idea can be formed of 
the edifices to which they once 
belonged. An old palace may be 
likewise observed on the point of 
P-dsilippo. It is called il Palazzo 
delle Gannonate (the Gun shots pa- 
lace)'ahd is worthy of notice, as it 
was the dwelling house of the cele- 
brated landscape painter, Philip 
Hackert, whose many beautiful 
pictures are seen in the royal 
alaces. 



On arriving opposite Capo Co- 
roglio, the traveller desirous of see- 
ing the neighbouring antiquities 
must take a narrow descent on the 
left, and at a short distance he will 
arrive at the 

Vivaj di Vedio PoUione, called also 
Piscina Mirabile.-^These ancient 
reservoirs lie at a quarter of a mile 
from the high road, and consist of 
an ancient long vault, above which 
a poor cottage has been built in 
modern times. The spacious vault 
is intersected at its mid-height by 
a wall, and the two divisions con>- 
stitute the remains still extant of 
Vedius Pollio's reservoirs. ■ Thi« 
rich Eoman kept there a numbet 
of laijapreys, which he fed with 
human flesh ! It will be observed 
how great a quantity of those fishes 
might live within the long and 
lofty walls. They measure fifty 
feet in length, eighteen in breadth^ 
and are twenty-four deep. These 
fishponds are the subject of a 
modern inscription which is seen 
upon a marble in the neigh- 
bouring chapel of St Maria del 
Faro. From this place we shall 
proceed to the ruins commonly 
called 

The School of Virgil and La Ga- 
jola. — From St Maria del Faro the 
traveller may go to these remains 
either by traversing the intermediate 
estates or by mounting up again to 
the public way, and thence descend- 
ing through a narrow path, wiiich 
is seen at a short distance on the 
left of the road. After descending 
for half a mile, he will observe an 
insulated rock, formed like a flat 
topped arch, upon which the re- 
mains are seen of a little fort, which 
was constructed there when the 
kingdom of Naples was under the 
government of Murat. This rock, 
which the ancients named Euplea, 
is now called la Gajola, a Neapo- 
litan word signifying little cage; but 
some antiquarians have thought 
that it has been named so from the 



NAPL;E8.— ENVIRONS. NISIDA. 



803 



Latin diminutive caveola, meaning | 
den, fv little grotto, an opinion ! 
which its present appearance is, in- ' 
deed, rery apt to justify. Opposite 
to this rock are the remains of what 
is confidently stated to have been 
the school of Virgil. The interme- 
diary space, which is now run over 
by the sea, was once lined with a kind 
of wall, which is still to be seen 
under the water. An inscrifption 
has been found in this place, from 
which it appears that, instead of any 
school, a temple arose there dedi- 
cated to Fortune. In this neighbour- 
hood are still visible three amphi- 
theatres, contiguous to each other, 
and from them an idea may be formed 
of the magnificence of this villa. 

After this visit we reascend to 
the new road, which, in this place, 
has been wonderfully prosecuted by 
cutting the mountain, the extremity 
of which forms Capo Coroglio. On 
entering the opening, which is 700 
feet in length, the eye is delight- 
fully surprised at a distant pros- 
pect of the high hills which lie be- 
hind Pozzuoli. This romantic view 
is soon followed by a more extensive 
one, which presents itself to the 
traveller as soon as he has tra- 
versed the passage cut out of the 
mountain. He then enjoys the 
view of the ample valley called de' 
Bagnoli, as well as of the beautiful 
gulf named Puteolano from Poz- 
zuoli lying in it, and a portion of 
which offers itself to the sight of i 
the observer. The whole forms a 
superb prospect, rendered still more 
interesting by the convent of the 
Camaldules, forming on the sum- 
mit of a hill the most prominent 
point of the above-mentioned valley. 
The ancient road to Pozzuoli ran 
through it. The new one from the 
point in' which I now suppose the 
traveller, ^toceeds along the western 
side of Capo Coroglio, which has 
been cut in its whole length by the 
means of mines. The whole of 
this road is a glorious aiid durable 



monument which nothing but the 
hand of time will be able to destroy. 
It was commenced and prosecuted 
by Neapolitan engineers till the 
year 1824, when the Austrians un- 
dertook to complete it. It finishes 
exactly at the place where the tra- 
veller must enter a boat, if he is 
desirous of seeing 

' , NI.SIDA. 

This is a Greek word meaning 
islet, and it has been with great 
propriety applied to the one of 
which we are going to give a de- 
scription, being but a mile and a 
half in circumference. An insu- 
lated ridge of rocks lies between it 
and the main. They have been 
taken advantage of to erect upon 
them several buildings, which serve 
as a lazaretto to passengers coming 
from suspected places. Nisida has 
the form of a cone cut off above the 
middle of its height ; and it appears 
small, but compact and green all 
over in the middle of the waters. 
It extends from the south to the 
north, and towards the latter point 
an old castle rises upon the summit 
of the island. It was constructed 
in the middle age. The landing 
place is a quay fronting the main, 
along which are several houses in- 
habited by the customers and the 
ofilcers of the lazaretto. A short 
mole is seen by these buildings on 
the right side, behind which the 
vessels lay performing their qua- 
rantine. A gate opens the pas- 
sage to the interior of the island, 
l3j traversing which the travel- 
ler will soon find himself on the 
opposite side. There is another 
landing place called Porto Pavone. 
There is but a single house in the 
whole islet. It is the cottage of the 
farmer, who keeps the land for the 
Casa Reale (the Eoyal domain) to 
which it belongs. 

In ancient times Msida was a 
part of Lucullus viUa. This i&the 
supposed reason why Cicero called 



8G4 



SOUTHERN ITALY. — ENVIRONS OF NAPLES. POZZUOLI. 



Nisida " Insula clarissimi adolescen- 
tuli LucuUi" in mentioning the con- 
ference he had there with Brutus. 
No remarkable antiquities are seen 
here ; nevertheless a visit to it is in- 
teresting, both on account of its pic- 
turesque situation, and the fine cul- 
tivation vphich is maintained there. 
Returning from Nisida to. the 
shore of Capo Coroglio, take the 
way along the beach, washed by 
the sea, where you may look 
out for a ducking if the wind is 
high, which extends for about three 
miles as far as 



,;.vi,:: ^ POZZUOLI. ,., .jf -ji;. . 

' Here guides are waiting to' eon- 
duct trarellers to the antiquities of 
the neighbourhood. Five pauls for 
■■^arty. ^'i ■::.:■' ■■■' '^^rvt'^^ ;r;-;> ■' 

The origin of this place is very 
ancient ; some say that Cumaeans 
established themselves here in the 
year 232, after the foundation of 
Rome ; others suppose that the 
Saaaiians, or inhabitants of the 
island of Samos, in 231, came with 
a; colony to this spot, where ; they 
built the city of Pozzuoli, and called 
it at first Dicearchia, from the name 
of Dicearco, their leader. ;l f'; , 

When this town afterwards pas- 
sed into the hands of the Romans, 
they placed it under the superin- 
tendence of Quintus Fabius, who, 
not finding any water there, caused 
several wells to be sunk, whence 
the town derived the name of Pu- 
teoli, or as it is now called, Pozzuoli; 
some, however, still contend that it 
received its name from the offensive 
sinell of sulphur perceivable there. 
This city was at first governed 
under the form of a republic ; but 
became a Roman colony in the year 
556 of the city of Rome, and was 
jnuch celebrated as the resort of the 
wealthy Romans, who built superb 
villas there, in which they enjoyed 
the beauties of tlie situation, the 
bienefit of its mineral waters, and 
the delights of unrestrained plea- 



sures. The number and beauty of 
the edifices with which it was aug- 
mented, exhibited the Roman mag- 
nificence in a striking manner, and 
hence Cicero has denominated it 
Rome in miniature. 

Pozzuoli was taken and pillaged 
several times by the barbarians, 
and was likewise destroyed at dif- 
ferent periods, after the fall of the 
Roman empire, by earthquakes and 
volcanic eruptions. The city and 
environs of Pozzuoli were then 
reduced to a deplorable state, so 
that only a few of its magnificent 
buildings remain. 

The higher part of Pozzuoli still 
presents the vestiges of the 

Temple of Augustus, now the Cathe- 
dral of St Proculiis.— This temple is 
composed of large square blocks of 
marble, and columns of the Co- 
rinthian order, supporting a well- 
executed architrave. It was built 
by the Roman knight, Calpurnius, 
who dedicated it to Gctavian Au- 
gustus, as is indicated in the follow- 
ing inscription, placed in the front: 

CALPUHNIUS £.. F. TEMPLTTM. AUGITSTO. 
CUM. ORNAMENTIS. »; D. 

The inscription found in the por- 
tico of the temple informs us that the 
architect's name was L. Coccejus. 

The Christians afterwards dedi- 
cated this magnificent temple to 
the deacon, St Proculus, who was 
born at Pozzuoli, and suffered 
martyrdom at the same time as St 
Januarius. The body of St Pro-- 
cuius is. preserved in the church, 
with those of St Eutichite and St 
Acuzio; he is considered tbe pro- 
tector of the city. 

Pozzuoli had' likewise several 
other magnificent temples, amongst 
which might be distinguished that of 
Diana, ornamented with 100 beauti- 
ful columns, and the statue of Diana, 
which was fifteen cubits in height. 
It is supposed that tlie remains of 
this temple are those which may 
be , seen in the spot called Pisaturo 



NAPLES.—- ENVIBONS. TEMPLE OP, SERAPIS. 



805 



by the inhabitants of Pozzuoli ; 
here likewise were found, many 
years ago, an immense number of 
beautiful columns. 

One of the most beautiful re- 
mains of the antiquities of Pozzuoli 
is the 

,:, Temple of Serapis. — The inscrip- 
tion which has been found, informs 
us that this temple was built in the 
sixth century of Rome. It was 
not discovered till 1750; it was 
then entire, and might easily have 
been preserved and restored, instead 
of being despoiled of all its orna- 
ments, columns, statues, vases, &c., 
we should then have had one of the 
most ancient temples in a perfect 
state. What still remains of this 
building, however, is sufficient to 
give an idea of the beauty of its 
construction, and of the taste and 
magnificence which the Romans had 
introduced into the architecture of 
the sixth century of their empire. 

This building, on the exterior, is 
of a quadrilateral form, measuring 
134 feet in length, and 115 in 
breadth. It was formerly sur- 
rounded by forty -two square rooms, 
some of which still exist. Four 
marble staircases lead to the tem- 
ple, which is built in a circular 
form, and is about sixty -five feet in 
diameter. The only portion of the 
temple now remaining is the base, 
which was surrounded by sixteen 
columns of red marble, forming a 
support to the cupola. Three co- 
lumns of cipollino marble are the 
only ones which have withstood 
the destruction of the building. 
The bottom of the temple presents 
the cell of the god. A most sin- 
gular lapidary inscription was like- 
wise found in this edifice. It re- 
lates to a Roman Decurio, and may 
be seen by an application to the 
keeper of the temple. In the time 
of its founders the building con- 
tained mineral baths, which have 
been lately re-established. They 
are maintained by water proceeding 



from the Solfatara, and every per- 
son is admitted to their use by 
paying a contribution, which is 
regulated by the magistrates. , . ^,j 

In the square caUed Piazza i^ 
Cesara Augusto is a handsome 
pedestal of white marble, found at 
Pozzuoli in 1693; its four sides are 
ornamented with fine bas-reliefs, 
although in a decayed state ; they 
consist principally of fourteen 
figures, representing fourteen towns 
of Asia Minor, the names of which 
are inscribed on the figures. As 
the inscription is in honour of 
Tiberius, it is supposed to have 
been the pedestal of the statue 
which was erected to him by the 
fourteen towns ; the environs would 
have been dug up to discover the 
statue, had not this operation re- 
quired the demolition of a great 
number of houses. 

In the largest square is a beauti- 
ful statue, raised on a pedestal, 
which bears an inscription be- 
ginning with the following words : 
Q. Flavio Masio Egnatio LoUiano 
. . . . Decaetrensium Patrotio 
Diynissimo. This Plavius was a 
Roman senator, and the statue was 
placed here in the year 1704. It 
had been found behind the house 
belonging to the viceroy of Toledo at 
Pozzuoli. The other, which is seen 
in the same square, is that of Bishop 
Montino de Leon y Cardenas, who 
was governor of Pozzuoli in the 
time of Philip IV. The inscription 
engraved on the four sides of the 
base gives him the character of $^ 
man eminently virtuous. .. ,.> 

Harbour of Pozzuoli- — This was 
formerly the most magnificent har- 
bour in Italy, and is supposed to 
have been formed by the Greeks. 
It was so extensive that it reached 
as far as Tripergole, and was capa- 
ble of containing an immense num- 
ber of large vessels. Its long mole, 
intended to break the fury of the 
waves, and shelter vessels from the 
wind, is perhaps one of the most 



806 



SOUTHERN- ITALY.— ENVIRONS OF NAPLES. AMPHITHEATRE. 



extraordinary works ever executed 
in the sea. The two inscriptions 
found in the s6a indicate that it 
was restored by Adrian and An- 
toninus PiuSj and that it had 
twenty-five arches, only thirteen 
of which now rieniain. This mole 
was built on piles, supporting arches 
in the form of a bridge. 

The Emperor Caius Caligula 
ilnited to this mole a' bridge of 
3,600 feet in length, which extended 
as far as Baia ; it was formed with 
two rows of boats, fixed by anchors, 
and covered with planks aiad ^sand, 
like the Appian way. 

These works cost immense sums 
of money, and, according to Sueto- 
nius, were at first intended to gra- 
tify the immeasurable pride of the 
Emperor Caligula, who wished to 
i^esemble Xerxes, who made a simi- 
lar bridge from Asia to Greece, 
which was considered an extraor- 
dinary achievement. In construct- 
ing this bridge Caihgula likewise 
wished to alarm the Germans and 
English, against whom he was about 
to declare war. On the first day he 
went over the whole extent of the 
bridge, mounted on a richly capa- 
risoned horse, bearing on his head 
a crown of oak leaves, and followed 
by an immense number of people, 
who were attracted from every part 
to view so extraordinary and whim- 
sical a procession. On the second day 
he made a grand display of his love 
of splendour, by proceeding in a 
triumphal chariot, crowned with 
laurel, and followed by D&,rius, 
whom the Parthians had given 
him as an hostage. 

The most remarkable ancient 
monument in Pozzuoli is the 

Amphitheatre. — ^^ Although earth- 
quakes have considerably injured 
this building, it is the most perfect 
antique edifice of Pozzuoli. This 
amphitheatre, which has been called 
the Coliseum, after that of Eome, 
is of the oval form, seen in most 
of these kihd of buildings. It is 



composed of large 'square ston^di 
and formerly displayed two orders 
of architecture ; its arena was 187 
feet in length and 130 in breadth, 
and the whole 'was capable of con- 
taining 45,000 persons. Suetonius; 
in his life of Augustus, informs us 
that this emperor assisted in the 
games celebrated here in compli- 
ment tO him. w.iij BI; 
In the interior of this amphi- 
theatre is a small chapel, erected 
in honour of St Januarius, bishop 
of Beneventum ; it is intended to 
commemorate his having been ex- 
posed to bears to be devoured ; but 
the ferocity of these annuals disap- 
peared on seeing the saint, and they 
fell down before him. Five thou- 
sand persons were converted to the 
Catholic religion by this miracle, 
and Timotheus,'a lieutenant of the 
cruel Dioclesian, was so irritated at 
its success that he decapitated' ithe 
saint. ':'■■:'.-' 

Near this amphitheatre is an im- 
mense subterranean building,' called 
the labyrinth of Daedalus on account 
of the number of small rooms that 
it contains, which form an inextrica- 
ble maze to persons entering it 
without a light. This building is 
composed of bricks, and the inte- 
rior is plastered over with a very 
hard lime. From its construction 
it appears to have once been a re- 
servoir for the waters of the am* 
phitheatre. 

After Pozzuoli, the remarkable 
antiquities to be seen on the coast> 
some in the neighbourhood of that 
city, and some at a greater distance, 
are the following, viz. : — << >: V 

The lakes of Lucrinus aridAvei''- 
nus. 

The baths of Nero. 

Baia, with the remains of three 
temples. 

The tomb of Agrippina. 

Cape Miseno, where is the grotto 
called the Dragonaria. ' ■ . . ; i 

Mare Morto, a lake. ' ■>• 

Bauli, a village exhibiting the 



NAElkES.— 'ENVIRONS. LAKES- I-UGHlNtlS ANO AVERNUS. 



807 



antiqraibies called Cemto Camerelle, 
Piscina ' Mirabile, and Mercato di 
Sabato. ' 

The lake of Eusaro. 
; The remains of Cumse. - 
;•> The Area feliee. ^;i! ,ii;-;: 
(f')The remains of CiceTo'& villa. 
i[>- The Bolfatara. ' '^> )?' 

The Jake of A^ano, with the 
grotta del Cane* • 

From PozzHoli the road lies along 
the sea shore. Nearly three miles 
distant we find 

The Lakes Liccrinus and Avermis. 
—-The first of these was celebrated 
in former times for the abundance 
of its fish, particularly oysters, which 
were the property of the Romans ; 
it is supposed by some that it de- 
rived the name of Lucrinus from 
Lucro — that is, from the grain 
which it produced. Julius Caesar 
united the lakes Ijucrinus and 
Avernus to the sea by the Porto 
Giuiio, which Phiiy considered as 
an extraordinary work. 

A part of lake Lucrinus was filled 
up by the violent earthquake on the 
29th September, 1538, which swal- 
lowed up the whole of the large vil- 
lage of Tripergole, together with its 
unfortunate inhabitants ; this vil- 
lage was situated between the sea 
and the lake. At this spot the 
ground opened, and ejected flames 
and smoke, intermixed with sand 
and burning stones^ which now com- 
pose the lofty mountain which is 
seen on the right side of our way a 
little before reaching the lakes. It 
is called Monte Nuovo, and is about 
three miles in circimiference. The 
sea, which had quitted its bounds, 
returned with rapidity, and occu- 
pied part of the ground on which 
the village ©f Tripergole had been 
situated, ' ; . 

The lake of Avernus, about a mile 
from lake Lucrinus, was separated 
from the sea by the earthquake. It 
is situated in a vaUey, and appears 
to be this crater of an extinguished 
volcano. The epithet Averilus is a 



Grreek word, signifying without 
birds ; these lakes, indeed, were 
formerly so surrounded by forests 
that the sulphureous exhalations 
destroyed all birds which approach- 
ed them. In these dreary forests, 
says Strabo, lived the Cimmerians, 
a barbarous people, who exercised 
the profession of fortune telling. 
Homer assures us that they lived in 
deep grottoes, which were impene- 
trable to the rays of the sim. Whe- 
ther these people really existed or 
not, the behef of such a circum- 
stance contributed in no small de- 
gree to the horror of these places. 
It is saidi that these extraordinary 
men were destroyed by a king' of 
Pozzuoli, to whom they had pre- 
dicted an event which imfortunately 
never took place. Octavius Au- 
gustus afterwards cut down all the 
forests, aad this horible place retains 
nothing of its former state but the 
name. 

Servius has given us a descrip- 
tion of the Cimmerians, and of the 
grottoes they inhabited, one of the 
entrances to which, he says, is situ- 
ated beyond lake Avernus ; he like- 
wise adds that these grottoes ex- 
tended as far as the Acherusia 
marsh. The ancients considered 
this grotto to be the entrance to the 
descent into the infernal regions, or 
kingdom of Pluto^ Several authors 
have pretended that lake Avernus 
had no bottom ; it has, however, 
been sounded, and the depth does 
not exceed eighty -two fathoms ; it 
is about 253 fathoms in diameter. 

In the environs of this lake is the 
entrance of a grotto which many 
writers have supposed to be that of 
the sibyl of Cumae ; others, how- 
ever, assert that it is the great canal 
excavated by Nero to conduct the 
warm waters of Baia to the pro- 
montory of Miseno. This grotto, 
or canal, having been abandoned, it 
is not possible to penetrate into it 
more than one hundred and fifty 
steps. 



808 



SOUTHERN ITALY.— ENYJEONS OF NAPLES. BAIA. 



On the borders of lake Avemus 
are the ruins of an antique building, 
supposed to be an ancient temple of 
Apollo ; it is surrounded by several 
rooms, in one of which is a spring 
of water ; from this circumstance 
many persons have supposed this 
building to have been one of the 
mineral baths which formerly ex- 
isted in the vicinity of Baia. ; T? 

One mile further are the 

Baths of Nero. — The ancients 
made great use of these baths; they 
consisted of sudatories, in which 
the body was rubbed all over, 
whence they derived the name of 
fritole, and by corruption they are 
now called sudatories of Tritola. 
They are likewise denominated the 
baths of Nero, because many per- 
sons suppose that emperor had a 
yiUa here, from which he com- 
menced a large navigable canal to 
conduct the waters of lake Avernus 
to the Tiber. The vestiges of this 
oanal, known under the name of 
Licola, are still visible. 

The sudatories of Tritola, or baths 
€f Nero, have six kinds of long but 
narrow corridors. Men acquainted 
with them can easily reach the end 
of the corridors, where they draw 
water from the spring, which is 
a.lmost boiling ; they go into these 
places nearly naked, but, notwith- 
standing this precaution, they come 
out in a perspiration as violent as 
if they had been in an oven. Perr 
sons unaccustomed to these places 
can scarcely advance ten steps 
without losing their breath. The 
waters of these sudatories possess 
many excellent properties, and the 
hospital of the Annunciation sends 
patients here during the summen 

From the baths of Nero, about 
another mile, following still the 
shore, is 

<r BAIA. 

According to Strabo, Bajus, the 
companion of Ulysses, was buried 
in this town, from which circum- 
stance it derives its name. . The 



delightful situation of Baia^ the 
fertihty of its soil, its beautiful 
meadows, and agreeable prome- 
nades on the sea shore, together 
with an abundant supply of excel- 
lent fish, and an infinite number of 
mineral springs of every description, 
and of various degrees of heat, aU 
combined to render it the favourite 
resort of the most wealthy and 
most voluptuous amongst the Ro- 
mans. Each one wished to build a 
house on the sea beach, but the 
immense number of edifices which 
were daily constructed soon occu- 
pied aU the spare ground. This 
deficiency was, however, shortly 
supplied by means of paUisadoes 
and moles, extending into the sea. 
From this time Baia became the 
seat of every pleasure. Horace 
preferred it to every other part of 
the world, but reproaches the volup- 
tuaries of his own time, because, 
not satisfied with the extent of their 
territories, they occupied them- 
selves in restraining the encroach- 
ments of the sea, instead of devoting 
their time to the contemplation of 
the more serious concerns of eter^ 
nity. Seneca was of opinion that 
this place was a dangerous abode 
for those who wished to preserve 
a proper dominion over their pas- 
sions. 

The country house of Julius 
Caesar, where Marcellus was poi-t 
soned by Livia, was situated at 
Baia. Varro speaks of the beautiful 
country house of Irrius, and Tacitu^ 
of that of Piso, where the conspiracy 
against Nero was formed ; he also 
mentions that of Domitia, Nero's 
aunt, whom the tyrant claused to 
be poisoned, in order to possess 
himself of her wealth. Pompey and 
Marius had Ukewise villas at Baia; 
but that of Julia Mammea, mother 
of Alexander Severus, surpassed 
them aU in magnificence. 

The ruins of Baia, and the dreary 
appearance of its deserted shores, 
exhibit a fine picture of the insta- 



NAPLES.-^ENVIRONS. CAPE MISENO. 



809 



bility of all human affairs. Not 
only have its ambitious and wealthy 
inhabitants passed away, and its 
aoble and elegant structures fallen 
in ruins, but even the air itself is 
become pestilential, owing to the 
pernicious exhalations arising from 
stagnant water. The castle of Baia 
is situated on the upper part of the 
coast, the only spot which is inha- 
bited ; the plain exhibits nothing 
but ruins, and the remains of foun- 
dations, which formerly supported 
the buildings and gardens that have 
been buried beneath the waters. 
There are, besides, the riiins of 
three temples dedicated to Venus, 
Mercury, and Diana Lucifera. Only 
the cu'cular part of the former 
temple remains. Several antiqua- 
ries suppose that it was erected by 
Julius Cassar ; and others believe 
that this, as well as the other two 
temples, were only baths, as they 
are surrounded by mineral waters. 
Indeed the base of this round part 
consists of three rooms, called 
Venus' baths. The rotunda of the 
temple of Mercury, which is vul- 
garly called Truglio, still remains 
entire ; it is 146 feet in diameter, 
and is lighted by an opening per- 
forated in the upper part, like the 
Pantheon of Agrippa at Eome. If 
a person speak at one extremity of 
the rotunda, he may be distinctly 
heard by any one at the opposite 
side, although a person situated in 
the intervening space cannot hear 
the least whisper. The circular 
part of the temple of Diana likewise 
exists, but the roof has suffered 
considerably. Its exterior is of a 
hexagon form, and at a distance 
has a very picturesque appearance. 
Dogs and stags, sculptured on 
blocks of marble, foimd near this 
temple, have induced a belief that 
it was dedicated to Diana, and not 
to Neptune, to whom some have 
attributed it. 

At Baia the traveller should take 
a boat to 



The Tomb of Agrippina. — The 
only part of this ancient monument 
which now remains is in the form 
of a semicircle, surrounded by steps ; 
the roof is adorned with bas-rehefs 
in stucco. The name of Agrippina 
has been given to this tomb, because 
she was sacrificed in its environs by 
her son, the tyrant Nero. Tacitus, 
however, teUs us that Agrippina 
was interred in a very humble 
grave near the country house of 
Caesar the Dictator, which has in- 
duced a belief that this edifice was 
more probably a theatre, to which 
it bears some resemblance. 

The traveller is introduced into 
it by the light of a torch ; the long 
use of torches has blackened the 
walls. 

After seeing this monument, the 
traveller may employ the same 
boat to take bim to Cape Miseno. 
A tunny fishery is to be seen in 
these waters, and during the pas- 
sage a grotto is passed, which is 
naturally opened at its two extre- 
mities. It is scarcely half a mile 
from the tomb of Agrippina to 

Cape Miseno. — This is the pro- 
montory seen at the eastern and 
southern extremity of the Gulf of 
Pozzuoli, and on it stood formerly 
the town of Miseno. Virgil teUs 
us that it takes its name from 
Misenus, the companion of vEneas, 
who was buried there. A magnifi- 
cent harbour, now called Porto 
Giulio, was commenced by Julius 
Cassar, under the direction of Agrip- 
pa. It was afterwards finished by 
Augustus, and was occupied by the 
principal Roman fleet, which was 
stationed there to guard the Medi- 
terranean Sea, in the same way as 
that of Ravenna defended the shores 
of the Adriatic. Pliny the Ancient 
commanded the fleet at Miseno, 
whence he departed in the year 79, 
in order to view the famous erup- 
tion of Vesuvius, in which he pe- 
rished. • 
Like Baia,' the town of Misen6 



810 SOUTHERN ITALT.-^ENVIRONS OF NAPLES. PISCINA MIRABILE. 



soon became the abode of luxury 
and pleasure. The wealthiest of 
the Roman citizens had their coun- 
try seats there* The most magni- 
ficent were those of Nero and Lu- 
cullus, of which the ruins still re- 
EQain. The Emperor Tiberius had 
also a villa here, where he died, 
and judging ^ from the , ruins, it 
would appear that a very large 
theatre had been, attacjied to it. 
This town was taken and plundered 
by the Lombards in 836, and was 
afterwards destroyed by the Sara- 
cens in 890. A,t present nothing 
is to be seen but ruins, which con- 
vey a very faint idea of the ancient 
splendour of the Romans. 

At the foot of the hill is seen a 
grotto, called Dragonaria, which, 
according to Suetonius, was the 
Piscina, or reservoir, commenced by 
Nero, in order to. convey to his 
country-seat all the warm waters of 
Baia. This grotto is 200 feet long, 
and twenty-eight wide ; it is also 
very lofty, and has four apartments 
on each side. Notwithstanding the 
immense sums expended by Nero 
on this great work, as well as on the 
still bolder undertaking which he 
commenced at thd lake Avernus, 
and which he meant to extend 
from Ostia to Rome, in order to 
avoid the passage by sea, he was 
not permitted to witness the com- 
pletion of either. 

A short distance from Cape Mi- 
seno is the lake called at present 
Mare - morto (dead sea). The 
poets have imagined that the Ely- 
sian Fields, represented as the abode 
of the blessed, were situated near 
this lake. The country in the en- 
virons is still very delightful, al- 
though it has been considerably in- 
jured by earthquakes and eruptions. 
The climate is mild, and the rigours 
of winter are unknown. 

From Cape Miseno one might go 
to Bauli over land, but the way is 
very sandy, and it will be found 
more conyenient to proceed again 



along the coast in the boat : at a 
quarter of a. mile distant land ; 
walk up the hill, and find there 

The Piscina Mirabik.— This grand' 
reservoir of water was constructed 
by liucullus, in order to supply the 
inhabitants of the environs with- 
soft water; or was perhaps moro 
particularly intended for the use of 
the Roman fleet, stationed near the; 
port of Miseno. This magnificent 
edifice was divided by a wall into' 
two, parts, in order perhaps to se- 
parate the water; It has five divi- 
sions, and several arcades supported 
by forty- eight pilasters; the descent 
into it is by two staircases, with.' 
forty steps to each. The building 
is of brick, and is covered on the 
outside with a sort of piaster, which 
is as hard as marble. It is 225 feet 
in length, seventy-six in breadth^ 
and twenty in height. 

Near this place is another edifice, 
commonly called the ,, . -r. 

Cento Camerelle. — This buildingf 
is also called the Labyrinth, on ac- 
count of the number of rooms which 
it contains. These apartments are; 
all arched, and lined with plaster of 
a very hard nature, which still re- 
tains its whiteness, in the interior 
of the building. Some persons have 
supposed that this was intended as 
a foundation for some grand struc- 
ture, while others assert that it 
was formerly used as a prison for 
criminals.. 

In. the same village of Bauli, 
where the above-mentioned monu- 
ments are seecn, and more exactly 
near Mare-morto, there is a sequel 
of grottoes, which, according to tra- 
dition, were anciently as many 
tombs. It is probable that Vasi 
alluded to these remains in men- 
tioning the Mercato di Sabato, un- 
less he meant a place commonly 
called Cappella, which is better 
known in the village under the 
name of Mercato di Sabato ; but 
this spot ifehows nothing else than 
some ancient ruins. 



KaLft/ES.^rENVIBONS. . CUIVL^. 



611 



-.About a, mile from Bauli is the 
lake Pusaro, which is the ancient 
Achernsia, or Acheronte marsh, so 
famous amongst the GreeJcs and 
Latins. The ancient my thologists 
and poets considered it to be the 
infernal Tartarus, where the repro- 
bate were confined; and believing 
that the souls of the dead were 
obliged to cross this lake, they 
imagined that the wicked remained 
here, while the just passed over to 
the Elysian Melds. This lake, 
which is probably the crater of 
some extinguished volcano, is now 
used for steeping hemp and flax; 
whence it has. derived the name of 
!Fusaro. 

It belongs to the king, who has 
there a beautiful cottage rising in 
the middle of the waters. The 
lake abounds with the most exqui- 
site oysters, a circumstance which, 
in the favourable season, attracts 
thither a great number of persons, 
fond of passing the whole day upon 
this spot. And indeed, leaving the 
oysters aside, it must be owned that 
the aspect of the lake, and of its 
environs, has something extremely 
agreeable to the sight, and grand to 
the imagination beyond all that can 
be said. Hence we ought not to 
wonder in hearing that the ancients 
had supposed this to be the seat of 
blessed souls. Upon the shores of 
Fusaro may be seen some walls, 
and other remains of ancient 
buildings. Others are met with 
along the way, which is cine mile 
long, leading from. 'the lake m of 
Fusaro to - . ■ ■'•;;- »nf •■•.. 

The town of Cum® was situated 
on a mountain near the sea. Strabo 
informs us that the foundation of 
Cumae was anterior to that of all 
the other towns in Italy, and that 
it was built by the Cumaeans of the 
Isle of Euboea, in Greece, who, after 
the burning of Troy, came into 
Italy with the Galcedonians, in 
order to find a new place of abode. 



Historians tell us that this towij 
was formerly impregnable ; but,. in 
spite of its fortifications, it was 
oppressed by tyrants, and after- 
wards owed its liberty to the valour 
of Xenocrites, who killed the tyrant 
Aristodemus. Cumse was the 
retreat and the tomb of Tarquin 
the Proud, the last king of the 
Eomans. ,. ;, -« 

The population and wealth (rf 
this town, together with the beauty 
of its situation, and the fertility of 
its soil, induced the ancients to 
bestow on it the appellations of the 
Fortunate and the Happy. It 
sustained several battles against 
the Campanians, and took part with 
the Romans in the Punic war, which 
excited the hatred of the Carthagi- 
nians, who several times ravaged 
this district. Cumae became a 
Eoman colony, under Augustus ; it 
preserved its celebrity at this 
period, and the arts continued to 
flourish there. Horace speaks highly 
of the Gumaean vases ; but war 
and pestilence afterwards united to 
ruin Cumse, which in the time of 
Juvenal had already- acquired the 
appellation of Vacua Cuma. This 
town was nevertheless considered 
of some importance in the early 
ages, on account of its fortifications, 
Totila and Teja, kings of the Goths, 
chose it as the most secure place 
for the depository of their treasures. 
It was besieged by Narsete, who 
could only gain access to it through 
a subterraneous opening called the 
Sibyl's Grotto. It was also taken 
by Romuald, second duke of Bene- 
ventum, in 715, and afterwards 
entirely destroyed by the Keapoli- 
tans, in 1207. 

On the summit of the mountain 
stood the famous temple of Apollo 
Sanatorious, the false god of the 
Calcedonian colony, where the 
Cumaeans > erected the celebrated 
statue of Apollo, which was brought 
to Cumse from Attica, and which, 
according to historians, is fiM^ to 



812 



SOUTHERN ITALY.-^BNVIRONS or NAPLES. LINTERNA. 



have shed tears on several melan- 
choly occasions. It was also under 
this temple, in a cavern dug in the 
mountain, that the oracle of the 
Cumaean Apollo was established. 
In this horrible grotto the famous 
sibyls, Cumse and Guraasan, delivered 
the oracles of Apollo, which were 
never understood by the ignorant 
and superstitious multitude 'Who 
consulted them. 

.The sibyl Cumae was born at 
Gumae, a town in the island of 
Eubeea, and flourished about the 
time of the destruction of Troy, in 
the year 1175 before the Christian 
era. Several writers assert that 
she repaired to Gumse in Italy, in 
order to perform the office of 
repeating the oracles of Apollo. 
Aristotle tells us that she prophe- 
sied at Delphos, whence she was 
denominated the Sibilla Delfica. 

The second sibyl appeared about 
551 years after the first. She was 
called Cumaean, because she was 
born and prophesied at Cumae, in 
Italy, but she called herself Amal- 
thea, and flourished in the year of 
Eome 172. She was the same who 
offered to Tarquin, the ancient 
king of the Eomans, the books of 
the oracles; for which, after having 
burned several, she exacted the 
same price as she had demanded 
for the whole. 

The entrance of the grotto is or- 
namented with a beautiful frontis- 
piece of marble, looking towards 
the east, and on entering the grotto, 
travellers will recognize the struc- 
ture as it has been described by an- 
cient writers. 

A temple of good architecture, 
of which the remains are still to be 
seen near the Appian way, and the 
Arco Felice, was found in making 
an excavation at Cumae, in 1606; it 
contained a great number of fine 
statues of divinities, of which Soipio 
MazzeUa has given a description at 
the end flf his work on Pozzuoli. 

Near this place, in the ground of 



D. Cristoforo Longo, are seen the 
ruins of a building called Tempio 
dei Giganti (Giant's Temple). It 
is thirty -one feet long and twenty- 
five wide. It has three square 
niches, and the ceiling is orna- 
mented with compartments. It is 
called the Temple of the Giants, on 
account of the colossal statues 
found in it, one of which was placed 
in the square of theroyalpalace, and 
was called the Giant of the palace. 

Cumae had a good harbour, formed 
by the lake of Follicola, commonly 
called the lake of Licola; Octavian 
Augustus restored it, and formed a 
communication with the lake Aver- 
nus, by means of a navigable canal. 
The lake Of Licola having no longer 
any communication either with the 
sea or the lake Avernus, the waters, 
which cover avast extent of groimd, 
have become stagnant, and render 
the air pestilential. 

All the land extending beyond 
the district of Cumae, as far as the 
river Clanio, became marshy in 
consequence of the stagnant water 
with which it abounds. On this 
side of the marsh, on a hill com- 
posed of volcanic matter, was 
founded the 

TOWN OF LINTERNA. 

We have no very authentic ac- 
count of the origin of this little 
town, except that it was situated 
on a spot rendered marshy by the 
waters of the river Clanio. We 
know, however, that the town of 
Linterna was considered by the 
Eomans as a place on the frontiers 
requiring protection ; for which rea- 
son Octavian Augustus declared it 
a military colony. 

The Roman history informs ms 
that Scipio Africanus retired to 
this town in order to end his days 
in peace^ when he was persecuted 
by the Roman people. After hav- 
ing delivered and subjugated the 
Africans, this great captain was 
unworthily cited to render an ac- 



NAPLES. — ENVIRONS. CICERO S VILLA. 



813 



count of the money which he had 
found in Africa, and which they 
said he ought to bring to Borne, 
instead of dividing it amongst his 
soldiers. Scipio made no answer 
to this accusation of the Romans, 
except hy recaUingto their remem- 
brance that only one year had 
elapsed since he had conquered 
Hannibal, and subjected Carthage 
to their dominion. It is thus re- 
lated by Titus Livius, who adds, 
that Scipio had scarcely pronounced 
these words, when he began to 
return thanks to the gods ; he after- 
wards took leave of the Romans, 
and retired to Linterna, where he 
passed the remainder of his days, 
far from this ungrateful people. 

Seneca, Strabo, and Maximus 
assure us, that this great warrior 
died at Linterna, where his rela- 
tions erected a statue and a tomb, 
with the motto, noticed by Titus 
Livius : — " Ingrata patria, nee ossa 
quidem mea habes." Plutarch tells 
us, that the Roman people repenting 
of their ingratitude towards so cele- 
brated a man, erected to his me- 
mory the magnificent tomb which 
is now seen at Rome, opposite the 
gate of St Sebastian. 

The town of Linterna was taken, 
pillaged, and destroyed in 455, by 
Genseric, king of the Vandals; 
since which nothing has remained 
but ruins. Amongst them has been 
found the following fragment of the 
above-mentioned motto: 

Tu patria nee. 

The whole neighbourhood then 
took the name of Patria, as far as 
the lake, situated near the town 
of Linterna, which is also called 
Patria. 

On our return from Cuma to 
Pozzuoli we meet with the remains 
of a thick wall of brick, presenting 
an arch that was formerly sup- 
ported by two columns, and bore 
the name of the Arco Felice. The 
wall is sixty-one feet high, and the 



arch nineteen feet wide : the whole 
appears to have formed a part of 
the enclosure of the town, to which 
the arch served as a gate. From 
this arch it is about four miles to 
return to Pozzuoh; by the road are 
seen the remains of 

Cicero's Villa. — This building was 
constructed like the Academy of 
Athens, and thence derived the 
name of Academy, by which it was 
often designated. The smaU por- 
tion now remaining indicates its 
ancient magnificence; the traces of 
the sea which formerly laved the 
house of Cicero, and afforded him 
the pleasure of angling, are still 
visible. It was in this residence 
that the celebrated orator composed 
the books entitled ' Questiones 
Academicae.' 

Elius, the Spartiate, informs us 
that the Emperor Adrian having 
died at Baia, was buried at this 
country house, where Antoninus 
Pius, his successor, erected a 
temple over his tomb. Indeed, 
amongst the ruins have been found 
a great number of statues of Adrian, 
covered with imperial ornaments. 
The fishermen and children at this 
place often find, on the sea coast, 
pieces of porphyry, agate, engraved 
stones, and medals, which are oflered 
for sale to strangers. 

Leaving Pozzuoli, one may return 
by the mountain, visiting along the 
road the Solfatara, the church of 
the Capuchins, and the lake of 
Agnano. 

Before reaching the Solfatara, 
which is less than a mile distant 
from Pozzuoh, we may see several 
ancient marble tombs, ornamented 
with bas-reliefs, which were dis- 
covered a short time ago. They 
are in the ground called D'Ortido- 
nica, which may be entered without 
deviating from the road. 

Proceeding higher up is 

The Solfatara. — This is a small 
plain, 890 feet in length, and 755 
feet in breadth. It was caUed by 
s 



814 



SOUTHERN ITALY. — ENVIEONS OF NAPLES. 



the ancients Forum Vulcani, and 
is surrounded by hills, which were 
formerly called Monti Leucogei. 
In the time of Pliny and Strabo it 
was supposed to be a volcano not 
entirely extinguished. It is now 
called La Solfatara, on account of 
the great quantity of sulphur which 
issues from it, and burns at dif- 
ferent places, causing a considerable 
heat ; several openings emit a warm 
smoke, impregnated with sulphur 
and sal ammoniac ; from this cir- 
cumstance it is generally supposed 
that the spot is undermined by a 
subterranean fire ; a supposition 
strengthened by the sound pro- 
duced when a stone is thrown on 
the ground, from which it appears 
to be hoUow underneath. On ap- 
proaching the principal of the 
above said openings one hears a 
noise like that of boiling water. 

The Solfatara itself seems to 
have been a mountain, the summit 
of which has been carried away by 
the violent action of a volcano. It 
appears also, that the ground is 
mined underneath, and that it forms 
an arch, covering a vacant space 
or basin of vapours, from which, 
however, no eruption need be 
feared, as the sulphur is mixed 
with a very small portion of iron. 
Several writers have thought this 
place communicated with Mount 
Vesuvius, but there is certainly no 
necessity to suppose the existence 
of a canal sixteen or seventeen 
miles in length, as a medium of 
connexion, when nature can with 
equal facility make two separate 
volcanoes. A learned Neapolitan 
writer has endeavoured to prove 
that the Solfatara is one of the 
mouths of the Infernal Regions, 
The fables of the poets mention the 
Solfatara as the scene of battle be- 
tween'the giants and Hercules. 

A short distance from the Solfa- 
tara is 

The Church of the Capuchins. — 
This church was erected by the 



city of Naples in 1580, in honour 
of the great protector St Januarius, 
bishop of Beneventum, who was 
martyred on this spot on the 19th 
of September, 289, during the reign 
of Dioclesian. The stone on which 
this saint was decapitated still 
exists, stained with his blood, in 
the chapel of St Januarius in this 
church. 

Sulphurous vapours and exhala- 
tions are very strong in the church, 
and particularly in the convent. 
The cistern belonging to the con- 
vent is constructed on an arch to 
separate the water from the ground, 
and prevent it from being impreg- 
nated with the soil. 

Above the convent may be seen 
the entrance of an immense grotto, 
which is said to have been used as 
a passage from Pozzuoli to Lake 
Agnano, without ascending the 
mountains of Leucogei. 

From the height of the Capu- 
chin's convent the traveller may 
observe the general prospect of the 
whole country round Pozzuoli. 
After all that he has partially seen 
on different spots, he will un- 
doubtedly be led to reflect upon the 
subverting hand and power of time, 
earthquakes, and war, which have 
so strangely disfigured the whole 
face of the district. 

The mountain which is seen 
westward once bore the name of 
Gauro ; it is now called Barbaro. 
The vines with which it was for- 
merly covered produced those ex- 
cellent wines so much spoken of by 
ancient writers. This mountain 
now exhibits the greatest sterility, 
which is supposed to have occasion- 
ed the change of its ancient name 
into that of Barbaro (barbarous). 

Another hill rises on the south 
of the Capuchin's convent. The 
ancients called it Olibano, and this 
also has received a new denomina- 
tion, namely that of Monte Spino. 
It is composed of lava and other 
substances ejected by the volcanoes 



NAPLES. — ENVIRONS. GROTTA DEL CANE. 



815 



which formerly existed in the envi- 
rons, and which have been for a 
long period of time covered by the 
sea. According to Suetonius, the 
summit of Monte Spino was levelled 
by the Emperor Caligula, who made 
use of the stones to pave the high 
roads of Italy. This stony moun- 
tain still presents several aqueducts, 
by means of which water was 
formerly conveyed to Pozzuoli. 
The foot of the mountain, opposite 
Pozzuoli, produces an excellent mi- 
neral water, extremely beneficial in 
the cure of different disorders. 

The lower and flat parts of the 
environs of Pozzuoli preserve their 
ancient fertility, and the climate is 
still very mild, the sky being there 
almost always clear, and the atmo- 
sphere agreeable. 

Continuing our route (with a 
guide of course) about tAv^o miles 
further, on the right side of the 
road is a little vaUey, through which 
once passed the ancient Eoman 
way, leading to 

The Lake of Agnano. — Near this 
lake was the ancient city of Angu- 
ianum, the remains of which may 
still be seen under the water. The 
lake is surrounded by lofty hUls, 
formed by the lava of the neighbour- 
ing volcanoes. It is about three 
miles in circumference, and is very 
deep. The water on the surface is 
sweet, but at the bottom it is salt ; 
the lake abounds with frogs, and 
with serpents which in the spring 
fall from the neighbouring hills and 
drown themselves. The water ap- 
pears to boil, particularly when the 
lake is full, from which circumstance 
many have supposed it to be the 
crater of an extinguished volcano ; 
but this supposition is entirely de- 
stroyed by the temperature of the 
water not being sufficiently hot to 
produce this ebullition, which seems 
to arise from the escape of some 
vapour. The water of the lake 
Agnano possesses mineral proper- 
ties, which are probably derived 



from the volcanoes in the neigh- 
bourhood. 

The ancients established baths in 
the vicinity, which are said to have 
healed all kinds of disease. Several 
sudatories, vulgarly called St Ger- 
main's stoves, still exist near this 
lake ; they consist of small rooms, 
from the bottom of which issue 
warm vapours, sufficiently hot to 
excite great perspiration in all who 
enter them. This heat, according 
to Reaumur's thermometer, is from 
39« to 40°. 

Near these sudatories, and at the 
foot of the hill, is the 

Grotta del Cane, or Dog^s Cave. — 
Pliny has mentioned this remark- 
able grotto, lib. 2, cap. 90 ; it is 
hoUowed out of a sandy soil to the 
depth of ten feet ; the height at the 
entrance is nine feet, and the breadth 
four. On stooping outside the 
grotto to view the surface of the 
ground a light vapour, resembhng 
that of coal, is always seen rising, 
about six inches in height ; this 
vapour is humid, as the ground is 
constantly moist. The walls of the 
grotto do not exhibit any incrusta- 
tion or deposit of saline matter. 
No smeU is emitted except that 
which is always connected with a 
subterranean passage of a confined 
nature. 

Several philosophers have given 
a description of this grotto, which 
they called Speco Caronio, and 
which is now denominated the 
Grotto of the Dog, because this 
animal is chosen to exhibit the 
noxious effects of the vapour. The 
dog, which is taken by the paws 
and held over this vapour, at first 
struggles considerably, but loses all 
motion in about two minutes, and 
would inevitably die were he not 
exposed to the open air, which re- 
stores his strength with a rapidity 
equal to that with which he lost it. 
The motion of the breast and mouth 
of the dog evidently prove that he 
wants air to breathe whilst in the 



816 



SOUTHERN ITALY. — ENVIRONS OE NAPLES. POSILIPPO. 



cave, and that on exposure to the 
atmosphere he immediately begins 
to respire. 

Other quadrupeds exposed to this 
vapour exhibit the same symptoms. 
Birds fall a prey to its noxious in- 
fluence with stiU greater rapidity ; 
a cock expires immediately on his 
head being put in the vapour. A 
lighted flambeau becomes gradually 
extinguished. 

The effects of this same vapour 
ai^pear to be less pernicious towards 
the human race ; several persons 
have inhaled it without experiencing 
any very injurious consequences. 
It is said, hov^ever, that the two 
criminals whom Peter of Toledo 
caused to be shut up in the grotto 
soon died. We are likewise assured 
that labourers who have gone to 
this spot to sleep have never after- 
wards awoke. 

Numerous experiments have been 
made respecting the nature of this 
vapour, and it is acknowledged that 
it contains neither sulphur, vitriol, 
arsenic, nor alkaline. This proves 
that it cannot be of an unhealthy 
nature, which is likewise evident 
from the following fact : — the dog, 
on which the experiment has been 
tried several times a day for many 
years, is never ill ; he may be said 
never to suffer any pain except 
when his respiration is prevented. 
These observations have given rise 
to numerous systems. Much time 
has been spent in attempts to dis- 
cover the cause of this extraordinary 
effect, but no satisfactory reasons 
have yet been adduced. To ascer- 
tain the real cause remained a sub- 
ject of research for the present age, 
in which j)hilosophy and natural 
history have made such astonishing 
progress. 

About one mile beyond the lake 
we return to Naples by the grotto 
of Posilippo, and Virgil's tomb. 

Posilippo and the Grotto. — On his 
return from the Grotta del Cane, the 
travaUer in front will have the hill of 



Pausilippo, so much celebrated both 
among the ancients and in modern 
times. The richest Komans, such 
as LucuUus and Pollio, had their 
villas upon this eminence ; and it 
seems to have been in all times the 
cherished abode of the muses, as 
Virgil, Silius Italicus, and Sanna- 
zare lived there. Posilippo, or Pau- 
sihppo, is a Greek term signifying 
cessation of sorrow, a name which 
corresponds remarkably weU with 
the beauties of its situation. The 
mountain forms almost all the wes- 
tern side of the bay, and gently 
declines southward in proportion 
as it approaches to the sea. There 
it ends, in a point called Punta di 
Posilippo. 

The grotto lies under this hill, at 
a short distance from the vilia. 

This grotto is a Rojnan work, 
which it seems was begun at its 
top and continued downwards ; it 
is about fifty-three feet high on the 
side looking towards Naples, and 
broad enough for two coaches run- 
ning abreast ; it extends from east 
to west, for nearly the third of a 
mile. The original use of this grotto 
is not exactly known. From an 
inscription found there, some people 
have been induced to think that it 
was once a den dedicated to the 
god Mitra ; others have said that 
it was first probably commenced 
for the purpose of obtaining stone 
and sand, and afterwards continued 
in order to abridge and improve 
the road from Pozzuoli to Naples, 
which formerly passed over the 
hUl. Strabo and Seneca have given 
descriptions of this grotto, without 
making any mention of its author. 
Varro appears to have attributed 
it to Lucullus. It is very probable 
that it was made by the Neapo- 
litans and Cumeans, to form an 
easier mode of communication be- 
tween them. It is entirely paved 
Avith stones from Vesuvius. Towards 
its centre a small opening has been 
perforated, through which a few 



NAPLES. — ENVIRONS. VIRGIL S TOSIB. 



817 



rays of light are admitted. This 
grotto is so singularly situated, that 
in the last days m October the set- 
ting sun illumines its whole length, 
when his rays reach a house situ- 
ated at Chiaja, for the inhabitants 
of which the sun has already set. 

To the present day the grotto has 
served as a part of the road going 
from Naples to Pozzuoli ; but the 
new one, constructed on the sea 
side, offers a much more agreeable 
passage. 

A small chapel, likewise hewn in 
the mountain, is seen on the left 
side ; it is kept by a kind of hermit, 
on whom the traveller usually be- 
stows a trifle. 

On our return from the grotto, 
we find, soon after, on the right 
side of the way, 

The Church of Santa Maria di 
Piedigrotta. — This pretty temple is 
indebted for its erection, in 1353, to 
the devotion of three persons, who 
had a miraculous vision on the 
8th of September, in which they 
were ordered by the Virgin to 
build this church. It is small, but 
the reverence the Neapohtans have 
for the image of the Virgin on the 
grand altar, daily attracts a num- 
ber of persons. 

It contains, besides, six fine pic- 
tures, three of which are upon wood, 
by Hemsel, Santafede, Bernardo 
Lama, and Martin de Voz. They 
were retouched in the year 1821, 
when the whole church was re- 
paired by the cares of the Eev. 
Arcangelo Origlia, its present 
curate. 

The chapel contiguous to the 
Sacristy is ornamented with a 
beautiful fresco representing the 
principal miracles of our Lord and 
the four Evangelists. It is the 
work of Belisario Corenzio, a cele- 
brated painter in fresco. 

A solemn feast is celebrated in 
this church on the 8th September. 
The king repairs thither on that 
day, in grand state, accompanied 



by all the royal family, to worship 
the image of the Virgm : this cere- 
mony is rendered still more brilliant 
by the number of troops ranged 
along the street of Chiaja, and by 
the immense crowd of persons who 
come from the neighbouring places 
to partake in this festival, which 
is midoubtedly the most magnificent 
in Naples. 

Erom the little church we have 
just visited, we turn to the right, 
and going a short distance, we enter 
the grounds of the Chevalier Truc- 
chiarola, and find there 

The Tomb of Viigil. — In its pri- 
mitive structure this tomb had the 
form of a small temple, in the 
middle of which was the sepulchral 
urn, supported by nine columns of 
white marble. It bore the following 
distich, composed, as every body 
knows, by Virgil himself a httle 
before he expired : 

Mantua me genuit ; Calabri rapuere, 

tenet nunc 
Partenope : Cecinj paseua, lura, boves. 

The expression tenet nunc Parte- 
nope sufficiently shows that the 
poet was aware that his ashes 
would be removed into this place. 
It is probable that he himself had 
solicited this removal from Augus- 
tus, with whom he was travelling 
when attacked by his last illness. 
It was m fact by order of the em- 
peror that the removal took place. 
No doubt is to be entertained that 
this is the true spot where the re- 
mains of Virgil were placed, as, 
besides tradition, we have the tes- 
timony of historians, of Statius, a 
poet of the first century, and of 
Aehus Donatus, a celebrated gram- 
marian of the fourth century, who 
says that the ashes of Virgil were 
deposited on the road of Pozzuoli, 
" intra lapidem secundum," that is 
to say, between the first and second 
mile stones from Naples. The road 
indeed is now lower, but in those 
times it might have been on the 
level of the tomb. It may be like- 



818 



SOUTHEKN ITALY. — ENTIROKS OF NAPLES'. 



wise supposed that this monument 
was placed somewhat higher than 
the pubhc way on account of the re- 
putation of the man it was intended 
to commemorate. 

The tomb remained in the state 
we have described till the year 
1326. No trace whatever of the 
urn or columns now exists ; the 
only remains consist of a square 
room without ornaments in the in- 
side, rendered rather picturesque 
by the verdant ornaments with 
which it is surrounded. In the 
same grounds the traveller will be 
invited to rest a little upon a ter- 
race, from which he may enjoy a 
stupendous sight of the Vomero, 
Chiaja, and the crater. 

Near this place may still be seen 
the ruins of the aqueduct which 
conveyed the waters of the lake 
Serino to the Piscina mirabile, an 
ancient reservoir of water, of which 
we shall speak hereafter. 

Descending from the tomb of 
Virgil we find 

The Shore of Mergellina. — On this 
delightful spot carriages usually 
parade every afternoon in summer, 
to enjoy the breeze and a disen- 
cumbered view of the sea. It is 
also very much frequented by pe- 
destrians, who use it as a prome- 
nade. Many small boats may be 
continually seen landing at this 
beach. They commonly come from 
St Lucia. Others start from Mer- 
gellina, rowing to the latter place ; 
and certainly no passage on the sea 
is comparable for amusement to 
this, as it affords a sight of the 
most enchanting part of the bay of 
Naples. The shore is decorated 
with a number of houses, which in 
that position may be called country 
houses, and the}^ are intersected by 
vineyards, orchards, or gardens. 

At the extremity of the shore is 

The Church of St Marij del Parto. 
— The ground on which this 
church is situated was given by 
Frederick II of Arragon, king of 



Naples, to his secretary, Sanns- 
zare, a celebrated Latin poet, who 
was born at Naples ; here he con- 
structed a country house with a 
tower, for which he had a great 
partiality : but King Frederick 
having lost his kingdom in 1501^ 
Philibert, prince of Orange and 
viceroy of Naples, caused it to be 
demolished. Sannazare complained 
bitterly of this infringement on his 
property ; and in 1529 erected on 
the ruins of his country-house the 
present ecclesiastical edifice, which 
he gave to the Servite monks. 

Sannazare having died on the 
following year, the Servites, as a 
mark of their respect for his 
memory, erected in the choir of the 
church a mausoleum, which is as 
magnificent in its designs as in the 
sculptures with which is is de- 
corated ; it is the united work of 
Santacroce and of the brother 
Jerome Poggibonzi. The bust of 
Sannazare is placed in the centre of 
two genii, who are weeping, and 
holding in their hands garlands of 
cypresses. The two sides are em- 
bellished with statues of Apollo and 
Minerva, which are denominated 
David and Judith. The pedestal,, 
supporting a sepulchral urn, con- 
tains a fine has - relief, repre- 
senting Fauns, Nymphs, and Shep- 
herds, singing and playing on 
various musical instruments : these 
figures have allusion to three kinds 
of poetry, in which Sannazare was 
a distinguished writer. Le Bembo 
caused this monument to be en- 
graved with the following distich, 
which he had composed himself, 
and in which he compares Sanna- 
zare to Virgil, whose tomb is in 
the vicinity. Sincerus Avas the 
pastoral name of Sannazare. 

De sacro cineri flores. Hie ille Maroni 
Sincerus, Musa, pioximus ut tumulo. 



NAPLES.— ENVIRONS. ROUTE 120. PORTICI. 



819 



SOUTHERN EXCURSIONS. 
RoTAL Palace op Portici, Her- 

CDLANEUM, PoMPEII, StABIA, MoUNT 

Vesuvius, Castellamare, Sor- 
rento, AND Capri. 

Railroad. — The railroad, from 
Naples to Nocera and Castellamare, 
passing Portici, Torre del Greco, 
and Torre dell' Annunziata, was 
the first constructed in Italy. It 
is undertaken by a French com- 
pany under the direction of MM 
Bayard de la Vingtrie, brothers, 
and De Verges, the grantee. The 
rails are of English iron, whilst the 
springs, pins, platforms, have all 
been made with the iron from Four - 
cbambault. This road has hitherto 
escaped the discredit attendant on 
similar undertakings ; the funds, 
only twelve millions and a half, 
were raised by the shareholders, 
and public confidence was so great 
that the costly assistance of the 
gentlemen bankers has not been 
found necessary. An interest of 
5 per cent, is guaranteed to the 
shareholders during the continua- 
tion of the works, and notwith- 
standing the difficulties attendant 
on beginnings, it has been regularly 
worked, and the dividend for the 
first six months of 1840 amounted 
to 6| per cent. The terminus is 
close to the Piazza Mercato, where 
omnibuses are in attendance. 
This road crosses the rich plain 
extending to Portici, and passes 
over Herculaneum. On some 
points it is nearly washed by the 
waves ; from the bottom of the 
carriage the shore is not visible, 
and if one only felt a little sea sick- 
ness, one might fancy one's self in 
a steamboat. Independently of 
its rapidity, this manner of travel- 
ling is highly agreeable, as one 
escapes a horribly dusty road, or 
rather a bustling, dusty street, 
three leagues long. The macaroni 
of Torre del Greco (the principal 



industry of the place) is just as 
good as formerly, although it is no 
longer covered with dust or broken 
by the jolting of the carts in its 
transit to Naples. The average 
number of travellers, per day, is 
from 3,000 to 4,000. The pleasure 
excursion on Sunday is a visit to 
the palace of Portici and its gar- 
dens. 



ROUTE 120. 

NAPLES TO PORTICI, VESUVIUS, 
AND HERCULANEUM. 

There are two branches of rail- 
road from the first station ; one to 
Castellamare, by Portici, Torre del 
Greco, and Torre Annunziata ; the 
other to Nocera, by Pompeii, Sca- 
fati, Angri, and Pagani. Trains to 
both places every hour. Fares 
from Naples. 

1st cl. 2nd cl. 
Gr. Gr. 
From Naples to Portici - 15 10 

— Torre del Greco - 20 15 

— Torre Annunziata - 40 25 

— Castellamare - 50 35 

— Pompeii or Scafati 50 35 

— Angri - - - 60 40 

— Pagani or Nocera 75 50 

Time : to Portici, fifteen mi- 
nutes ; to Pompeii and Castella- 
mare, fifty to sixty minutes. 

N.B. The first class carriages 
should always be taken. 

PORTICI. 

Travellers intending to visit 
Vesuvius or Herculaneum, should 
stop at this station. 

Royal Palace. — This superb palace 
was built by Charles III in 1738, 
from the design of Anthony Can- 
nevari. Its situation is the most 
beautiful that can be imagined. 
The principal front overlooks the 
sea, and commands a most magni- 
ficent view of the gulf of Sorrento, 
the island of Capri, the summit of 
Pausilippo, the island of Procida, 



820 



SOUTHERN ITALY. — 'ROUTE 120. TESUTIUS* 



and the whole of the gulf of Naples. 
The great court, which is in the 
form of an octagon, is crossed by 
the public road. On two sides of 
this court are the royal apartments, 
containing ancient mosaics, a room 
entirely paved and plastered with 
china, and a gallery which has been 
but lately formed. The palace 
has also delightful shady groves, 
and beautiful gardens, interspersed 
with basins and fountains. These 
gardens are open to the public, 
but the palace cannot be seen 
when any of the royal family are 
there, 

VESUVIUS. 

This celebrated mountain is visited 
both by day and night, the latter 
is most decidedly the best time, 
though of course the most incon- 
venient and dangerous. At the 
Portici station guides generally 
way-lay strangers, and conduct 
thera to Resina, a walk of about 
fifteen to twenty minutes ; here 
horses or mules are provided, at 
the expense either day or night of 
1 piaster each, including the guide; 
but to prevent any misunderstand- 
ing, an agreement should be made 
before starting. The road to what 
is called the Hermitage is exceed- 
ingly rough, but bordered with 
festoons of delicious-looking lachry- 
mse grapes. The time occupied in 
reaching the hermitage and new 
observatory is about one hour and 
a half. Three quarters more, 
through immense clinkers of lava, 
brings us to the base of the moun- 
tain, where the horses are left. 
Three quarters more sharp work 
will bring you to the edge of the 
outside crater. Within this, eggs 
may be cooked and eaten ; these 
are brought up with bread, grapes, 
and wine. 

The old fashioned system which 
existed in Madam Starkie's time is 
exploded, and speculating providers 
of the above simple fare keep by 



your side from Resina to the 
summit; as they are beyond the 
reach of the police tariff, it is just 
as well to say " quanto ne domandute'" 
before you begin to devour. A good 
long staff, and strong shoes, are 
great "helps " in this excursion, the 
guides also provide girdles and 
straps, which they fasten round 
their own body, by taking hold of 
the other end great assistance will 
be afforded. Night -work is usu- 
ally more expensive than by day, 
as torches are sometimes used, and 
a rest takes place at the hermitage, 
where some expense must be incur- 
red for very queer accommodation. 
A small fee is usually given to the 
soldiers stationed on the mountain 
to protect visitors; for, although 
placed there and paid by thegovern- 
ment, a trifling fee will insure their 
close attendance both up and down. 

Ladies who are no determined 
pedestrians should be carried up m 
a chair. 

N.B. Provide some new pieces 
of coin, and place in the centre of a 
piece of red hot lava, about the 
size of a French roll; this forms an 
interesting souvenir of Vesuvius. 
The descent is a sort of sandy slide 
up to your knees. 

This terrific mountain is situated 
between the Apennines and the 
sea; it is environed by two other 
mountains, one of which is called 
Somma, and the other Ottajano. 
Although separated from each other, 
these mountains have one com- 
mon base ; it is even believed 
that they once formed a single 
mountain, much higher than they 
are at present, and that their sepa- 
ration was the effect of some erup- 
tion, which divided their summits, 
at the same time that it converted 
them into craters. Vesuvius is in 
the form of a pyramid; its perpen- 
dicular height before the last erup- 
tion was 573 feet, and the circum- 
ference of the three mountains 
taken at their base is thirty miles. 



NAPLES. — ENVIRONS. ROUTE 120. VESUVIUS. 



821 



Three different roads lead to the 
summit of Mount Vesuvius; that 
of Massa and St Sebastian, to- 
wards the north, of Ottajano on 
the east, and of St Maria di Pupli- 
ano, above mentioned, on the west- 
ern side; the last is the shortest 
and most frequented. 

The top of this mountain pre- 
sents a horrible gulf, or crater, 
three miles and a third in cir- 
cumference. A tour round it is 
rendered extremely painful, and it 
takes two hours and a half. The 
inside of the crater, as seen at pre- 
sent, is a frightful abyss, exactly 
made like a hollow inverted cone. 
On the side called Del Parcolo, 
towards the mountain of Somma, it 
is 2,000 feet deep, while its depth does 
not exceed 1,200 feet on the side 
looking towards the Romitorio. 
The bottom of this gulf ax)pears 
solid, and millions of little columns 
of smoke continually issue from its 
internal sides. 

Vesuvius will sometimes preserve 
a tranquil appearance for several 
years, exhaling only a slight smoke ; 
but this apparent calm must not be 
trusted to, for it is then perhaps 
that the volcanic matter, which is 
constantly boiling and fermenting 
in the heart of the mountain, is 
seeking to escape from the profound 
abyss in which it is contained. It 
is also under these circumstances 
that subterranean concussions are 
sometimes felt. When thick clouds 
of black smoke are seen to rise, and 
particularly when they assume a 
white appearance, and the form of 
a cone or a pine tree, it is con- 
sidered as a certain indication of an 
approaching eruption. 

It has been observed that the 
waters recede from the sea-shore 
during an eruption, which has in- 
duced a belief that they are absorbed 
in the interior of the mountain, and 
the marine shells that are always 
found in the water emitted by Vesu- 
vius render this opinion very pro- 



bable. From whatever source the 
waters which have penetrated this 
furnace originally sprmig, they 
must necessarily augment the force 
and agitation of the volcanic mat- 
ter, and may perhaps produce the 
eruption. 

Sulphur is certainly the most 
inflammable matter with which we 
are acquainted, and is the primary 
cause of the burning of a volcano as 
of the thunderbolt, which in fact 
leaves wherever it passes the same 
smell of sulphur as the productions 
of Vesuvius. Natural philosophers 
and chemists have proved by num- 
berless experiments that the fire of 
volcanoes is greatly superior in 
strength to that of burning coals, or 
even to the furnace of a glasshouse, 
and that volcanic heat is conse- 
quently of much longer duration. 

Amongst the. productions of 
Vesuvius the lava is the most re- 
markable ; it is a sort of liquid fire, 
of the consistence of melted glass. 
It usually issues from the sides of 
the mountain during an eruption, 
spreads itself like a torrent at its 
foot, and sometimes extends as far 
as the sea-shore, where it forms 
small promontories. When the 
lava stops it loses by degrees its 
natural heat, and is converted into 
a sort of stone of a brown colour, as 
hard and as easily polished as 
marble, for which it is often used as 
a substitute. This lava runs slowly, 
and with a sort of gravity ; it is 
very thick, and generally very deep. 
It sometimes rises to the height of 
fifteen feet, and spreads itself also 
to a considerable extent. The 
smallest obstacle is sufficient to im- 
pede its course. It wiU then stop 
at the distance of seven or eight 
paces, swell, and surround whatever 
opposes its passage, till it has either 
destroyed it or covered it. If the 
obstacle is formed by flints or porous 
stones, they break with a noise 
nearly resembling the report of 
I cannon. Large trees and buildings 
s 2 



822 



SOUTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 120, VESUVIUS. 



present still greater obstacles to 
the course of the lava, which as 
usual stops aud then surrounds 
these objects, as it does smaller 
ones. The leaves of the trees then 
begin to turn yellow, soon become 
dry, at length burst into a flame, 
and the tree itself is consumed ; but 
it rarely occurs that houses or other 
buildings are destroyed by the pro- 
gress of the lava. The lava pre- 
serves its interior heat a very long 
tune, and as it cools it becomes, as 
we mentioned before, as hard as 
stone, and assumes a brown colour, 
intermixed with red and blue spots. 
It is used for paving the streets in 
Naples and the neighbouring towns, 
and when it is properly polished it 
becomes so glossy that it is manu- 
factured into tables and snuff-boxes, 
and even into rings and earrings. 

The ashes of Vesuvius are nearly 
of the same nature as the lava. The 
force with which they issue from 
the crater impels them to a con- 
siderable height, and sustains them 
a long time in the air. The wind 
sometimes carries them to an asto- 
nishing distance. The ancient 
writers assert that during the erup- 
tion in the year 79 the ashes from 
Vesuvius extended to Egypt and 
Syria, that they reached Constanti- 
nople in 472, Apuha and Calabria 
in 1139 ; and if they are to be cre- 
dited, Sardinia, Eagusa, and Con- 
stantinople in 1631. These volcanic 
ashes mixing with the water form 
a liquid matter, which spreads itself 
over the land, and insinuates itself 
into the interior of the houses, as 
was the case at Herculanemn and 
Pompeii. 

Some judgment may be formed 
of the strength and impetuosity of 
this volcano by observing the pro- 
digious height to which the column 
of smoke ascends. It is said that 
during the eruption of 1631 the 
height of this column was estimated 
at thirty miles, and that in 1779 at 
1,000 fathoms in height, and twenty 



in diameter. Vesuvius also emits 
stones of an enormous size and 
weight, as weU as to an astonishing 
distance. One of the most singular 
circumstances respecting this won- 
derful phenomenon of nature is, 
that so immense is the quantity of 
volcanic substances which issue 
from its tremendous furnace, and 
which cover all the land in the en- 
virons, extending even to the sea- 
shore, that they would be sufficient, 
if collected together, to form a 
mountain at least four times as big 
as Vesuvius itself. 

It is certainly an erroneous 
opinion, although many have sup- 
ported it, that Vesuvius has com- 
munication with other volcanoes, 
and particularly with Mount ^tna 
in Sicily, the Solfatara of Pozzuoli, 
and the island of Ischia. The most 
scrupulous attention and correct 
observations have disproved this 
assertion ; neither is it true that 
the eruptions of Mount ^tna and 
Vesuvius take place at the same 
time and from a common cause, or 
that one of them is in a state of 
ignition when the other is extin- 
guished, as others have supposed. 

The first eruption of Mount 
Vesuvius, mentioned by the early 
writers, is that of the 24th of Au- 
gust, in the 79th year of the Chris- 
tian era, which buried the town of 
Herculaneum, as well as those of 
Pompeii and Stabia. But other 
eruptions must necessarily have 
taken place previous to this epoch, 
as it is well known that the streets 
of these very towns were already 
paved with lava and other volcanic 
substances, which has induced a 
belief that Vesuvius had been con- 
sidered as an extinguished volcano 
for a considerable period, during 
which time several towns were built 
in its environs. 

The eruption of the year 79 was 
terrific; the volcano suddenly open- 
ed with a tremendous explosion, and 
a thick volume of smoke issued from 



NAPLES.— ENVIRONS. ROUTE 120. VESCTVIDS. 



823 



it, rising in the form of a cone. The 
sky was obscured during three days, 
the waters receded from the seashore 
and the volcano emitted ashes and 
other substances in such immense 
quantities as entirely to cover the 
towns of Herculaneum, Pompeii, and 
Stabia. Phny the naturalist, who 
left Misena, where he commanded 
the Roman fleet, in order to obtain a 
nearer view of this grand spectacle, 
feU a victim to his curiosity at 
Stabia, where he was sufibcated by 
the ashes. Phny the younger, his 
nephew, has left us an ample as 
weU as minute description of this 
terrible eruption, in his letters to 
Tacitus. 

Eruptions of Vesuvius also took 
place in the years 203, 472, 512, 685, 
and 1036. K we may give credit to 
the assertions of Charles Sigonius, 
he has assured us that the eruption 
of 472 fiUed aU Europe with ashes, 
and produced such an alarm at Con- 
stantinople that the Emperor Leo 
abandoned the city, which is never- 
theless more than 750 miles from 
Vesuvius. Scotus, in his ' Itinerary,' 
speaking of the eruption in 1036, 
says that he has read in the annals 
of Italy that the sides of Vesuvius 
opened and that torrents of fire 
issued from them, which extended as 
far as the sea. 

There were also other eruptions 
in 1049, 1138, 1139, 1306, and 1500; 
but that in 1631,Arhich was the thir- 
teenth, was more terrible than any 
of the preceding. On the 16th De- 
cember, 1631, after violent concus- 
sions of the earth had been felt, and 
volumes of black smoke seen to j 
ascend in the form of a cone— at aU i 
times a fatal presage — the side of 
the mountain towards Naples burst 
open, and emitted a torrent of lava, 
which soon separating, took its 
course in seven different directions, 
destroying the towns and villages 
in the environs. Torrents of boiling 
water afterwards issued from the 
crater, accompanied by violent 



shocks of an earthquake. This 
frightful deluge inundated the sur- 
rounding country, tore up the trees 
by the roots, threw down the houses, 
and injured more than 500 persons, 
who were in the neighbourhood of 
the Torre del Greco. In the town 
of Naples, also, 3,000 individuals 
suffered from the effects of this dire- 
ful calamity, which continued till 
the middle of the month of January, 
1632. 

The eruptions of the years 1660, 
1682, 1694, 1698, 1701, were not 
less alarming ; and from 1701 to 
1737 scarcely a year elapsed in 
which Vesuvius did not emit lava, 
or at least smoke. The eruptions 
which took place in 1737, 1751, 
1754, 1759, 1760, 1765, and 1766, 
were also very considerable ; but 
that of the 19th October, 1567, was 
tremendous ; the concussion of the 
earth was severely felt at the dis- 
tance of twenty miles. Even at 
Naples the sand and ashes fell in 
showers, and the lava in its course 
rose to the height of twenty -four 
feet, and spread itself to the breadth 
of 300. 

The eruptions of the years 1776, 
1778, and 1779, proved less fatal, but 
that which took place in 1794 was 
very violent ; a torrent of lava was 
emitted which covered the surround- 
ing country, and the houses in the 
Torre del Greco. 

Thus thirty-six eruptions are 
reckoned to have taken place from 
the years 79 to 1794; but they might 
almost be said to occur annuaUy, for 
scarcely a year passes but a greater 
or less quantity of lava, ashes, and 
other volcanic substances, are emit- 
ted either from the crater or the sides 
of the mountain. The two most re- 
cent and remarkable, from 1794, 
have taken place in the years 1819 
and 1822, 

Observations upon the former 
have been made and published by 
M. de Gimbernat. He had followed 
the course of the eruptions nearest 



824 



SOUTHERN ITALY. — EOUTE 120. VESUVIUS. 



to this, which happened towards the 
end of November, and by the means 
of a barometer, which he fixed upon 
the highest point of Vesuvius a few 
days before this same eruption, he 
had found that the height of the 
mountain since last January had di- 
minished more than sixty feet, by 
the frequent falling of the crater. 
After the eruption it became still 
further diminished, as even the pin- 
nacle on which the barometer was 
fixed fell into the interior of the 
crater. 

The eruption of 1822 deserves to 
be particularly described, being one 
of the most recent, and the most 
singular which ever happened. 

Eruption o/"! 822.— For seven days 
previous to the eruption Vesuvius 
had thrown out much more smoke 
than usual, though not so much as 
to give ground for extraordinary 
alarm. The first phenomenon which 
caused an eruption to be appre- 
hended as imminent appeared on 
the 22nd October, in the afternoon. 
A white column of smoke rose from 
the lofty crater of the volcano, 
which, gradually increasing both in 
breadth and height, became a most 
striking object. At its summit the 
smoke,which had become very thick, 
extended itself circularly, so as to 
give the whole column a form very 
much like that of an insulated pine 
tree in the coimtry. The sky was 
clear, but shortly after it grew dark 
under this very mass of smoke, 
which displayed itself all round the 
horizon, losing its whiteness, and 
assuming now an ashy colour. The 
night came on, and two or three 
streams of lava were now perceived 
flowing down the mountain; none 
of them, however, passed as yet 
beyond its middle. People began 
to feel alarmed at this sight. Some 
calamity was apprehended, though 
none happened on that night, nor 
on the following day. It was to- 
wards the evening of the 23rd that 
the lava vigorously began to follow 



its course, and while on the side 
opposite to Naples, it threatened 
Ottajano, it was seen from this 
capital to approach the village of 
Kesina. Two-third parts of the 
mountain, from the top doAvnwards, 
were quite covered with the igneous 
matter, the redness of which ad- 
mirably contrasted with the dark 
appearance of the atmosphere. The 
horror of the night was increased by 
a silent flashning of serpentine fire, 
wliich from time to time appeared 
in the air, illuminating the frightful 
blackness of the smoke above. This 
kind of taciturn lightning had 
never appeared during the preced- 
ing eruptions. In the meantime a 
large farm was burning upon the 
right decUvity of the mountain, 
which produced a flaming volume 
of fire, distinctly visible from Naples, 
over the permanent and more red 
appearance of the lava. The vil- 
lages to which it was approaching, 
were filled with consternation and 
disorder. Everybody would leave 
his house, and none his goods. 
Hence a general perplexity pre- 
vailed, attended with cries, contests, 
and the tumultuous motions of the 
people. Malefactors, availing them- 
selves of the obscurity of the night, 
mixed in the crowd, disguised as 
women, for the purpose of stealing. 
The police, on their own part, were 
making efforts, endeavouring to 
prevent the augmentation and con- 
sequences of the uproar; in addition 
to which a great number of con- 
veyances carrying those who were 
anxious to behold more nearly the 
stupendous working of the moun- 
tain. ; All these circumstances pro- 
duced such an encumbrance along 
the pubhc roads, that on this occa- 
sion they might be said to be ve- 
hicles of tumult, lamentatiwis, and 
horror. 

These events were followed by a 
fall or rain of ashes, which lasted 
from the 24th to the evening of the 
25th, with less or more density, 



NAPLES. — ENVIRONS. EOUTE 120. HERCULANEUM. 



825 



but constantly such as to impede 
the ordinary course of light, which 
during those days appeared yel- 
lowish and feeble, as in the time of 
an echpse. There was one hour in 
the day when this rain suddenly 
became so thick in the village deUa 
Barra, as to darken the whole 
country. 

The "fallen ashes were analysed 
by chemists, and it was found that 
among other substances, they con- 
tained a very small proportion of 
gold. Gold in the wombs of Vesu- 
vius ! who will be ever able to ex- 
plain this phenomenon ? 

In the meantime, on the side of 
the mountain which is seen from 
Naples, the lava stopped before it 
reached the inhabited places, so 
that every apprehension being over, 
the poor inhabitants who by the 
cares of government had found a 
provisional asylum in Naples, could 
now return to their houses. Most 
of them indeed found their gardens 
and orchards bestrewn with ashes. 
Their vegetables and smaller plants 
were lost, but this transient damage 
was not to be lamented on con- 
sidering the greater and irreparable 
one to which they had just been 
exposed. The calamity was much 
more considerable in the village of 
Ottajano, lying on the eastern side 
of the mountain. Its territory was 
visited by the lava, and the barren- 
ness with which it has been conse- 
quently struck will last for years, 
if not for centuries. 

As to the mountain, the effects 
of the eruption have been to diminish 
its height by 800 feet; to enlarge 
the crater, which before was but 
5,624 feet in circumference, and to 
produce a large cleft along the 
mountain, towards the east. 

Under the village of Portici and 
Resina, is the 

Ancient Town of Herculaneum. — 
The name of this town, as well as 
the united testimony of Strabo and 
Dionysius of Hahcarnassus, have in- 



duced a belief that Hercules was 
the founder of it; and it is supposed 
to have been the Phenician Hercules, 
he who defeated the tyrant Geryon 
in Spain, and who, after having 
opened a passage across the Alps, 
came into Italy, where he founded 
Monaco in Liguria, Leghorn, and 
Port Hercules in Tuscany, and 
Formia, Pompeii, and the town 
of Herculaneum, which is situated 
on the banks of the river Sarno, 
between Pompeii and Naples, at the 
foot of Mount Vesuvius, and on the 
sea shore. Here Hercules con- 
structed a magnifi(^ent harbour in 
order to establish his fleet. This 
town is said to have been founded 
sixty years before Troy; it is cer- 
tain, however, that it existed at 
the time of the Roman republic. 

Its healthy and agreeable situa- 
tion on the sea shore, combined 
with other natm-al advantages, 
attracted great numbers of people 
to Herculaneum, whence it soon 
became one of the wealthiest cities 
of Campania. It was at first go- 
verned and inhabited by the Oschi- 
aus; afterwards by the Etruscans, 
the Samnites, and the Greeks in 
succession. Becoming alternately 
a municipal and a Roman colony, 
it stiU. preserved its grandeur and 
the magnificence of its pubhc build- 
ings and spectacles; the inhabitants 
were also distinguished for their 
talents and enterprising spirit, as 
may be seen by the inscriptions 
and the numerous specimens of 
sculpture that have been found. 

The wealth of private individuals, 
and the consequent luxury and 
effeminacy introduced into Rome 
during the latter times of the Re- 
public, made the Romans sigh for 
the existence of a town, animated 
by hberty, taste, and pleasure, 
embellished by the arts, and situ- 
ated on a fertile soil, and under a 
serene sky. Cicero mentions a great 
number of Romans who had coun- 
try-seats at Herculaneum, where 



826 



SOUTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 120. HERCULANEUM. 



they passed the greater part of the 
year. Strabo, who lived under 
Augustus, gives a very advanta- 
geous description of this town. 
Phny, Florus, and Tatius, also speak 
of it in very favourable terms ; in 
short the appearance of the ruins 
is of itself sufficient to prove its 
having once been the most beauti- 
ful, as well as the most opulent city 
in Campania, with the exception of 
Naples and Capua. 

Herculaneum sustained consider- 
able injury from the earthquake 
which took place in the 63rd year 
of the Christian era. It would 
nevertheless have completely reco- 
vered from the effects of this 
calamity had it not been entirely 
buried during the eruption of the 
year 79, which was the most terrific 
that has taken place for the space 
of eighteen centuries. Pliny the 
younger was an eye-witness of this 
most horrible catastrophe, which 
he thus describes in his sixteenth 
letter to Tacitus. He tells him he 
was at Misena wdth Pliny the elder, 
his uncle, when the sky became 
suddenly obscured, and the most 
noxious vapours were exhaled from 
the earth ; while the lightning, 
flashing amidst the darkness, 
augmented the horror of the scene. 
Vesuvius at the same time emitted 
vast quantities of bitumen, sulphur, 
and hot stones, which extended as 
far as the sea, and afterwards took 
a direction over the towns of 
Pompeii, Herculaneum, and Stabia, 
which were buried in one moment, 
while many of the inhabitants of 
Herculaneum were, at the theatre. 
The matter which covered Hercu- 
laneum was, more properly speaking, 
composed of ashes and gravel rather 
than lava. Nevertheless, the greater 
part of the tOAvn was burnt, which 
has induced a belief that these sub- 
stances were still burning : they 
were also accompanied by those 
torrents of water, which Vesuvius 
usually emits during its eruptions, 



and with which the interiors of the 
houses were filled. From the exca- 
vations made at Herculaneum it 
appears that new torrents of vol- 
canic matter have passed over 
those which originally covered the 
town ; there are even certain indi- 
cations that the productions of six 
other eruptions have spread them- 
selves over this beautiftd city since 
its total destruction. 

The towns of Herculaneum, 
Pompeii, and Stabia, being thus 
destroyed, were so entirely for- 
gotten, that some very remote 
traditions alone remained to assist 
the antiquarians in their search 
after the places of their existence. 
Herculaneum was at last discovered 
by chance. The inhabitants of 
Eesina, in 1689, having dug to the 
depth of sixty-five feet in one of 
their wells, found the remains of 
some valuable marbles, and several 
inscriptions belonging to the town 
of Pompeii. Emanuel of Lorraine, 
Prmce of Elboeuf, in 1720, having 
occasion for some marble in his 
villa at Portici, gave orders to dig 
around this same well, when several 
statues were discovered. These 
circumstances recalled Hercula- 
neum to their recollection ; but the 
government suspended the conti- 
nuation of these excavations. 

The suspension, however, was 
but temporary ; for, m 1738, Charles 
in continued the works commenced 
by the Prince of Elbceuf. The 
workmen had scarcely penetrated- 
to the depth of sixty-five feet, when 
they discovered an mscription on 
stone, and some remains of eques- 
trian statues in bronze ; they conti- 
nued to dig horizontally, and found 
two marble statues, with some other 
fragments. But the most important 
discovery was that of the theatre 
at Herculaneum, where, it is said, 
the people were assembled, and 
were witnessmg the representation, 
when surprised by the terrible erup- 
tion of Mount Vesuvius. 



NAPLES. — ENVIEONS. ROUTE 120. HERCULAXEUM. 



827 



In the village of Eesina is the 
mouth of an excavation leading to 
a narrow road, into which the 
traveller may descend with the 
assistance of a flambeau, and accom- 
panied by a guide, who will conduct 
him to the end of this road, where 
he will find the great theatre of 
Herculaneum, the only monument 
which presents itself to attract the 
curiosity of travellers. It is a mag- 
nificent structure of superb Grecian 
architecture, with a very beautiful 
front, and the stage is ornamented 
with marble columns ; it very 
nearly resembles the theatre of 
Palladio at Vicenza. Its circum- 
ference on the exterior is 290 feet, 
and in the interior 230. There are 
twenty-one rows of seats for the 
accommodation of spectators ; sur- 
mounted by a gaUery ornamented 
with statues of bronze. 

It is to be lamented that this 
celebrated city cannot be entirely 
excavated hke that of Pompeii ; as 
the villages of Portici and Eesina, 
being built over Herculaneum, have 
prevented the completion of the 
excavation, which could only be 
carried on horizontally, and a lit- 
tle at a time, the buildings being 
of necessity covered over again, 
after having been examined, and 
the most splendid ornaments taken 
from them. Notwithstanding aU 
this, Herculaneum stiU preserves 
some traces of its ancient beauty. 
The streets, which were wide and 
regularly built, were paved with 
lava of the same description as that 
emitted by Vesuvius in the present 
day, which proves that eruptions 
must have taken place prior to that 
in the year 79 ; these streets had 
foot pavements on each side like 
those in London. A great many 
temples have been discovered at 
Herculaneum, as weU as an infinite 
nrnnber of houses built in a good 
style of architecture, and embellished 
by the fine arts. The forum, which 
has also been discovered, was a 



rectangular square, 228 feet in 
length, and surrounded by a piazza 
supported by forty columns. The 
entrance to this square was formed 
by five arcades, ornamented with 
equestrian statues ; the two finest, 
representing Balbi and his son, are 
preserved in the academy of studies 
at Naples. This piazza communi- 
cated, by means of another piazza, 
to two temples, one of which was 
150 feet long. Almost all the houses 
were painted in fresco, the only 
kind of painting known to the 
ancients ; the windows were usually 
closed by means of wooden shutters, 
except in some few instances, where 
the houses had very thick glass 
windows, the art of making them 
thin not being at that time so well 
known as it is in the i^resent day ; 
a great number of bottles, however, 
as well as goblets of thick glass, 
have been found at Herculaneum. 

This town, as we mentioned 
before, was not covered with lava, 
but with the ashes from Vesuvius, 
which, being intermixed with the 
water, have formed a cem.ent so 
hard that it is difficult to break it. 

These substances were, no doubt, 
in a burning state when Hercula- 
neum was buried, for the doors of 
the houses and other combustible 
matters were found converted into 
a sort of charcoal, which still pre- 
serves some degree of flexibility in 
consequence of the humidity of the 
earth. Even in the interior of the 
houses, where this volcanic matter 
had not penetrated, many things 
were either reduced to charcoal or 
scorched up, though not consumed, 
such as books written on the bark 
of the Egyptian papyrus ; wheat, 
barley, walnuts, almonds, figs, 
bread, &c. ; household furniture, and 
bronze utensils, were also found 
uninjured. Some of the apartments 
were fiUed with the volcanic matter, 
which proves that it must have 
been dissolved by the waters of 
Vesuvius, or it could never have 



828 



SOUTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 121. EXCURSION TO POMPEII. 



penetrated the houses ; where, ne- 
vertheless, it appears to have mtro- 
duced itself in a torrent of fluid 
matter : there is every reason to 
believe, notwithstanding, that the 
city of Herculaneuni was buried at 
different intervals, so as to afford 
sufficient time for the inhabitants 
to make their escape, and to take 
with them the most valuable part 
of their property ; for, since the 
excavations have been made, not 
more than a dozen skeletons have 
been found, and the valuable arti- 
cles of furniture remaining consist 
chiefly of such things as would have 
been found most difficult to remove. 
Gold and silver have also been dis- 
covered, but in very small quan- 
tities. 

After the excavations had been 
made, many buildings were, by 
degrees, covered over again, and 
the marbles, bronzes, paintings, 
sculptures, medals, inscriptions, 
papyri, mathematical instruments, 
and many utensils unknown to us, 
were preserved at Portici, whence 
they were conveyed to the academy 
of studies at Naples, where they 
form a unique museum. A small 
part of Herculaneum only is left 
open in addition to the theatre, but 
there is no communication between 
the two places ; on quitting the 
theatre a lad will conduct to the 
entrance of the excavations. 



KOUTE 121. 

EXCURSION TO POMPEII. 

Railway train in fifty minutes. 

From the station to either entrance 
of Pompeii is about a quarter of an 
hour's walk : taking the right hand 
high road will lead to the market 
and barracks ; the left will lead to 
the principal entrance, adjoining 
which is the house and garden of 
Marcus Arrius Diomedes ; if 
you enter by the latter, visitors 
usually leave it by the former, and 



vice versa ; at both places are sta- 
tioned the guides appointed by 
government to conduct strangers 
through the ruins. They wear a 
demi-official costume, and are gene- 
rally satisfied with a piaster for a 
party, or six carlini for a single 
person ; but, whatever sum is 
agreed upon, it should include the 
seeing of those places under the 
care of other custodes, by whom 
they are kept locked. 

POMPEII. 

Pompeii appears to have been a 
populous and handsome town, situ- 
ated near the mouth of the Sarnus 
(now called Sarno), and the walls 
which surrounded the city were 
above three miles in circumference, 
and are supposed to have been 
originally washed by the sea, though 
now about one mile distant from 
its margin. Pompeii (as already 
mentioned) was buried under ashes 
and pumice stones, and at the same 
time deluged with boiling water, 
during the year 79, and acci- 
dentally discovered by some pea- 
sants in 1751, while they were em- 
ployed in cultivating a vineyard 
near the Sarno. The excavation of 
Herculaneum was attended with 
much more expense than that of 
Pompeii, because the ashes and 
pumice stones which entombed the 
latter were not above fifteen feet 
deep, and so easy was it to remove 
them, that the Pompeians who sur- 
vived the eruption of the year 79, 
evidently disinterred and took away 
a large portion of their moveable 
wealth ; though, generally speak- 
ing, they seem to have made no 
efforts toward repairing the mis- 
chief done to their houses ; an ex- 
traordinary circumstance, as the 
roofs only were destroyed. 

The streets are straight, and 
I paved with lava, having on each 
side a raised footway, usually com- 
posed of pozzolana and small pieces 
of brick or marble. The Via Appia 



NAPLES. — ENVIRONS. ROUTE 121. POMPEII. 



829 



(which traverses the town, and ex- 
tends to Brundusium) is broad, but 
the other streets are narrow ; car- 
riage-wheels have worn traces in 
their pavement, and judging from 
these traces, it appears that the 
distance between the wheels of an- 
cient carriages was not four feet. 
The houses hitherto excavated are, 
generally speaking, small ; most of 
them, however, were evidently the 
habitations of shopkeepers ; but 
those few which belonged to per- 
sons of a higher class, were usually 
adorned with a vestibule, supported 
by columns of brick, each house 
possessing an open quadrangle, 
with a supply of water for domestic 
purposes in its centre ; and on the 
sides of the quadrangle, and behind 
it, were baths and dressing-rooms, 
sitting-rooms, bed-chambers, the 
chapel which contained the Lares, 
the kitchen, larder, wine-cellar, &c., 
none of which appear to have had 
much light except what the qua- 
drangle afforded, there being, to- 
ward the streets, no windows. The 
walls of every room are composed 
of tufa and lava, stuccoed, painted, 
and poMshed, but the paintings in 
the large houses are seldom superior 
in merit to those in the shops ; per- 
haps, however, the ancient mode of 
painting houses, like that now 
practised in Italy, was with ma- 
chines called stampi ; which enable 
the common house-painter to exe- 
cute almost any figure or pattern 
upon fresco wall. 

The ceilings are arched, the roofs 
flat, and but few houses have two 
stories. The windows, like those 
in Herculaneum, appear to have 
been provided with wooden shut- 
ters, and some of them were fur- 
nished with glass, which seems to 
have been thick and not trans- 
parent, while others are supposed 
to have been glazed either with 
horn or talc. Every apartment is 
paved with mosaics ; and on the 
outside of the houses, written with 



red paint, are the names of the in- 
habitants, with their occupations, 
including magistrates and other 
persons of rank : so that if the 
stucco on which these names were 
written had been well preserved, 
we should, at the present moment, 
have known to whom each house in 
Pompeii originally belonged. All 
the private houses are numbered : 
and on the exterior walls of public 
edifices are proclamations, adver- 
tisements, and notices with respect 
to festivals, gladiatorial shows, &c. 
The pubhc edifices were spacious 
and elegant, and the whole town 
was watered by the Sarno, which 
seems to have been carried through 
it by means of subterranean canals. 

The approach to Pompeii is 
through the suburb anciently called 
Pagus Augustus Pelix, and built on 
each side of the Via Appia, which, 
from the commencement of this 
suburb to the Herculaneum gate, is 
flanked by a double row of tombs. 

The principal objects, as I visited 
them, he contiguous to each other, 
in the following order : 

The Villa of Diomedes was the 
first building disentombed at Pom- 
peii, between 1771 and 1774; the 
skeleton of whose master, Marcus 
Axrius Diomedes, was found close 
to the garden gate, with a key in 
one hand, and gold ornaments and 
coins in the other. Behind him 
was found another skeleton, pro- 
bably that of his servant, with 
vases of silver and bronze : and in 
three subterranean corridors, which 
appear to have been used as cellars, 
seventeen skeletons were discovered, 
one of which, adorned with gold or- 
naments, is conjectured to have 
been the mistress of the villa, the 
mark of whose form on the wall is 
pointed out by the guides, and the 
others her family. This edifice has 
two stories. On the ground floor 
are several rooms nearly in their 
original state, as are the garden and 
the cellars, the first of which is sur- 



830 



SOUTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 121. POMPEII. 



rounded by colonnades, and has a 
pergola and a reservoir for water in 
its centre ; the latter, wherein the 
seventeen skeletons were found, 
contain wine-jars, filled with, and 
cemented to the walls by, ashes. 
The upper story exhibits paintings, 
mosaic pavements, hot and cold 
baths, with furnaces for heating 
water. Part of the ancient roof of 
this villa is likewise preserved : and 
on the opposite side of the Via 
Appia, are the tombs of the family 
of Diomedes. 

Building appropriated to the Sili- 
cernium after funerals. — This is a 
small structure (on the right, be- 
tween the villa of Diomedes and the 
Herculaneum-gate) ; its interior 
was stuccoed and adorned with 
paintings (nowobhterated) of birds, 
deer, and other ancient emblems of 
death ; it contains a triclinium, or 
eating- table, whereon the Silicer- 
nium, or funeral repast, was served. 

Repository for the ashes of the 
Dead, wherein the ashes of persons 
who had not private tombs are sup- 
posed to have been deposited, has, 
on its summit, an ornament shaped 
like an altar, and adorned with 
bas-reliefs emblematical of death. 

Semicircidar roofed Seat. — On the 
left side of the Via Appia is a deep 
recess, decorated with stucco orna- 
ments ; it seems to have been a 
covered seat for foot passengers ; 
and here were found the skeletons 
of a mother with her infant in her 
arms, and two other children near 
her. Three gold rings (one being 
in the form of a serpent), and two 
pairs of ear-rings, enriched with 
fine pearls, were found among these 
skeletons. Opposite to this semi- 
circular seat, and at a small dis- 
tance from the Via Appia, are ruins 
of a villa supposed to have belonged 
to Cicero. 

Inn. — This appears to have been 
a large building, provided with 
horses, carriages, &c.; and situated 
oa the outside of the city, because 



strangers were not permitted to 
sleep within its walls. Remains of 
the wheels of carriages, the skeleton 
of a donkey, and a piece of bronze, 
resembling a horse's bit, were 
found here. 

Columbarium, called the Towh of 
the Gladiators. — This sepulchre, 
which stands on the right of the Via 
Appia, particularly merits notice, 
because its interior is perfect, and 
contains a considerable number of 
places (shaped like pigeon holes) 
for cinerary urns. 

Semicircular Seat. — Inscribed on 
the back of this seat is the following 
inscription, in capital letters, as in- 
deed are all the inscriptions at 
Pompeii : Mammi^ P. E. Sacer;- 

DOTI PVBLIC^ LOCVS SePVLTVR^ 

Datvs Decvrionvm Deceeto. Be- 
hind the seat stands the tomb of 
Mammia, which appears to have 
been handsomely built, and elegantly 
ornamented. Eurther on, near the 
Herculaneum gate, is another semi- 
circular bench ; and to the left of 
the Via Appia, on the outside of 
the gate, is a path leading to a 
Sally-Port ; by the steps of which 
it is easy to ascend to the top of the 
ramparts. 

Herculaneum Gate. — There were 
four entrances to Pompeii, namely, 
the Herculaneum gate ; the Sarno, 
or Sea gate ; the Isiac gate (so 
called because near the Temple of 
Isis) ; and the Nola gate : all of 
which entrances were apparently 
devoid of architectural decorations, 
and composed of bricks, stuccoed. 
The Herculaneum gate is divided 
into three parts : the middle division, 
through which passes the Via Ap- 
pia, is supposed to have been for car- 
riages ; and one of the side entrances 
for foot passengers coming into the 
city ; while the other was appro- 
priated to foot passengers going out 
of it. The Via Appia is about 
twelve feet wide, and composed of 
large volcanic stones of various 
shapes and sizes, fixed deep into a 



NAPLES. — ENVIRONS. ROUTE 121. POMPEII. 



831 



particularly strong cement. The 
footways on either side of this street 
are between two and three feet in 
width. 

Post House. — This is the first 
bmlding on the right, within the 
gate : and as Augustus established 
posts, or what was tantamount, on 
all the Consular roads, making 
Pompeii one of the stations, this 
building probably was a post house : 
several pieces of iron, shaped hke 
the tire of wheels, were found here. 
In a house on the opposite side of 
the way are a triclinium and some 
paintings which merit notice. 

Building commonly called a Coffee 
house ; but more probably a Ther- 
mopolium, or shop for hot medicated 
potions. Here we find a stove; and 
likewise a marble dresser, with 
marks upon it, evidently made 
either by cups or glasses ; and con- 
sequently the contents of these cups 
or glasses, when spilt, must have been 
(as medicated draughts frequently 
are) corrosive. On the opposite 
side of the street is a house which, 
according to an inscription nearly 
obliterated, belonged to a person 
named Albinus ; and several amu- 
lets representing birds, tortoises, 
dolphins, and other fishes, in gold, 
silver, coral, and bronze, were found 
here. Adjoining is another Ther- 
mopohum. 

House of Caius Cehis. — This edi- 
fice, which stands opposite to a 
fountain, and is now occupied by 
soldiers, appears to have contained 
public baths. Not far distant is an 
edifice, adorned with a pavement of 
fine marble, and a good mosaic, re- 
presenting a lion. This quarter of 
the town likewise contains subter- 
ranean structures, wherein the 
citizens of Pompeii are supposed to 
have assembled during very hot or 
rainy weather to transact business. 
This description of building was 
called a Crypto-Porticus ; and 
usually adorned with columns, and 



furnished with baths and reservoirs 
for water. 

House called the Habitalion of the 
Vestals. — Here, according to appear- 
ance, were three habitations under 
the same roof; and likewise a 
chapel, with a place for the sacred 
fire in its centre ; and in its walls 
three recesses for the Lares. On the 
door-siU of one of the apartments is 
the word " salve " (welcome) wrought 
in mosaic ; another door-sill is 
adorned with two serpents, also 
wrought in mosaic. A room of 
very small dimensions has in the 
centre of its pavement a labyrinth 
or table for playing at an ancient 
game, and the pavement of another 
room exhibits a cornucopia. The 
skeletons of a man and a little dog 
were found here ; and in the apart- 
ment called the Toletta several gold 
ornaments for ladies were discovered. 
Not far distant is an edifice, which 
appears to have been an anatomical 
theatre, as upwards of forty chirur- 
gical instruments, some resembling 
those of the present day and others 
quite different, were found within 
its walls. 

Ponderarium, or Custom House. — 
Here were found a considerable 
number of weights, scales, and 
steelyards, similar to those now in 
use at Naples ; together with one 
weight of twenty-two ounces, re- 
presenting the figure of Mercury. 
Near the Ponderarium is an edifice 
which, judging by the materials 
discovered there, seems to have 
been a soap manufactory ; and not 
far distant are two shops for hot 
medicated potions. 

Public Baking House. — This build- 
ing contains an oven, together with 
mills for pulverizing corn. Shops 
of a similar description abornid in 
Pompeii. 

Wine and Oil Shop. — The vessels 
which contained wine and oil may 
still be seen here, and m many 
other shops of the same kind. Here 



832 



SOCTHBKN ITALY. — ROUTE 121. POMPEII. 



likewise are stoves, with which 
these shops seem usually to have 
been furnished, perhaps for the 
purpose of boiling wine. 

House of Caius Sallvst, cleared in 
1809. — Contiguous to the wine and 
oil shop is one of the largest houses 
yet discovered at Pompeii, and, ac- 
cording to the inscription on its 
outside wall, once the abode of 
Gains Sallust. Here is a triclinium, 
with places where mattresses ap- 
pear to have been spread for the 
family to lie down while they ate. 
This triclinium is in the back part 
of the house ; and in another part 
is a tolerably well preserved picture 
of Diana and Actseon ; and likewise 
a small room, paved, with a picture 
of Mars, Venus, and Cupid, well 
preserved, and executed in a style 
much superior to the generality of 
frescoes found at Pompeii. In tlie 
Lararium, or chapel for the Lares, 
a small statue was discovered, as 
were some coins and a gold vase, 
weighing three ounces ; bronze 
vases likewise were found in this 
house, and four skeletons, five arm- 
lets, two rings, two ear-rings, a 
small silver dish, a candelabrum, 
several bronze vases, and thirty-two 
coins were found in its vicinity. 
Part of this building is kept locked. 

Academy of Music. — This edifice 
appears to have been spacious, and 
its quadrangle is ornamented with 
a painting of two serpents twined 
round an altar, above which is a 
Lararium. The large rooms ex- 
hibit paintings representing musical 
instruments, and a piece of iron, 
which apparently belonged to a 
musical instrument, was discovered 
here. 

House of Pansa, excavated be- 
tween 1811 and 1814. — This is a 
good house, handsomely decorated 
with marbles and mosaics. In the 
centre of its quadrangle are a well 
and a small reservoir for fish, and 
in its kitchen a fire-place, resem- 



bling what we find in modern Italian 
kitchens, and paintings represent- 
ing a spit, a ham, an eel, and other 
eatables. Here were found several 
culinary utensils, both of earthen- 
ware and bronze ; and not far 
hence is a shop, wherein a variety 
of colours, prepared for fresco- 
painting, were discovered. 

House of the Tragic Poet was dis- 
covered in the year 1825, and con- 
sists of six rooms, besides the ves- 
tibule and the quadrangle. The 
pavement of the latter is adorned 
with a very elegant mosaic, repre- 
senting a scene of tragedy ; another 
painting upon the wall of the same 
quadrangle expresses a personage 
reading before other people, whose 
attitudes seem to indicate a lecture 
of a new sentimental work. From 
these circumstances it is supposed 
that the house belonged to an author 
of tragedies. The rooms are like- 
wise painted, and on the door-sill 
are the words cave canem in mosaic. 

Public Stoves and Bat/is. — They 
are opposite the house of the tragic 
poet, and were disentombed toward 
the end of 1824. The edifice con- 
sists of several large rooms, three 
of which contained the stoves. Two 
marble baths may be seen here, one 
of which is of a circular and the 
other of an oblong form. There is, 
besides, in one of the rooms a basin, 
made likewise of marble, upon the 
edge of which is expressed in bronze 
letters the amount of its cost. The 
rooms are handsomely stuccoed in 
has - relief, and contain also 
several bronze utensils for baths. 
In this building bread, cheese, and 
wine from Vesuvius may be had of 
the custode. 

Temple of Fortuna Augusta. — It 
lies at a short distance from the 
baths, upon the pubhc street, and 
is the more remarkable as it was 
erected at the expense of Cicero, 
according to an inscription which 
may still be seen in the same edi- 



NAPLES. — ENVIRONS. ROUTE 121. POMPEII. 



833 



fice. It seems to have been of an 
elegant form, though small. A 
flight of twelve steps of lava leads 
to it. 

Pauthfon. — This is an oblong edi- 
fice. Its centre exhibits twelve 
bases for statues circularly disposed. 
The statues were not found ; it is 
supposed they were those of the 
twelve greater gods, for which rea- 
son the name of Pantheon was 
given to this temple. The very 
bases were when discovered almost 
destroyed ; they have been restored 
with modern structure. Two statues 
were found in the ceUa, where their 
imitations may be seen, the ori- 
ginals having been removed to the 
Academy of Studj at Naples. An- 
tiquarians think they were the 
statues of Drusus and Libia. The 
internal walls of the temple are 
ornamented with several very fine 
paintings. It was discovered in 
1826. 

Forum Civile. — This is a very 
large piazza, which appears to have 
been bordered with magnificent 
porticoes, supported by a double 
row of tufa and travertino columns, 
and paved with marble. One en- 
trance to this forum is through two 
archways, the use of which is not 
apparent. Beyond the second arch- 
way on the left are remains of a 
temple supposed to have been con- 
secrated to Jupiter, because a fine 
head of that heathen deity was found 
there. Several steps, now shaken to 
pieces by earthquakes, lead to the 
vestibule of this temple, which seems 
to have been quadrilateral, spacious, 
and handsome ; and its ceUa is ele- 
gantly paved with mosaics. On the 
right of these ruins stands the 
Temple of Venus, exhibiting beauti- 
ful remains of its original splendour. 
The slmpe of the edifice is quadri- 
lateral ; its dimensions are large, 
and its waUs adorned with paintings. 
The ceUa, which stands on fifteen 
steps, is paved with mosaics, and 
in a contiguous apartment is a well- 



preserved painting of Bacchus and 
Silenus. Here, likewise, is a small 
recess, supposed to have been a 
Lararium. The lower x^art of the 
temple contains a Herma, resem- 
bling a vestal, together with an 
altar (or perhaps the basis of the 
statue of Venus), which seems to 
have slid from its proper ]3lace in 
consequenceof an earthquake. The 
steps leading to the cella have the 
same appearance ; and all the edi- 
fices in this part of Pompeii must 
have suffered more from the earth- 
quake which preceded the eruption 
of the year 79 than from that erup- 
tion itself, as the repairs going on 
at the very moment of that erup- 
tion evidently prove. Beyond the 
Temple of Venus, and fronting the 
Via Appia, stands the Basihca, or 
principal court of justice — a ma- 
jestic structure, of a quadrilateral 
form, in length one hundred and 
ninety feet, and in breadth seventy- 
two. The walls are adorned with 
Corinthian pilasters, and the centre 
of the building exhibits a double 
row of Corinthian columns, twenty- 
eight in number. The tribunal for 
the judges, which stands at the 
upper end of the court, is consider- 
ably elevated, and has immediately 
beneath it a subterranean apart- 
ment, supposed to have been a 
prison. In the court, and fronting 
the tribunal, is a large pedestal, 
evidently intended to support an 
equestrian statue ; and on an out- 
side wall of this structure (that 
wall which fronts the house of 
Championet), the word "Basilica" 
may be discovered in two places, 
written with red paint. Beyond 
the Basihca, and fronting the 
Temple of Jupiter, are three large 
edifices, supposed to have been 
dedicated to public uses, and that 
in the centre was evidently un- 
finished, or repairing, when buried 
by the eruption of 79. On the side 
of the Forum, and opposite to the 
Basilica, are edifices resembling 



834 



SOUTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 121. POMPEII. 



temples ; one of which, supposed to 
have been consecrated to Mercury, 
contains a beautiful altar, adorned 
with bas-reliefs representing a sa- 
crifice. Marbles of various sorts, 
apparently prepared for new build- 
ings, together with a pedestal, 
which seems from the inscription it 
bears to have supported the statue 
of Q. Sallust, and another pedestal 
inscribed with the letters C. Cvspio 
C. F. Pans^, occupy the centre of 
the piazza ; and, judging from 
marks in the pavement, the en- 
trance to this foriun was occasion- 
ally closed with gates of bronze or 
iron. 

House of Championet, so called be- 
cause excavated by a French ge- 
neral of that name. This habita- 
tion appears to have suffered con- 
siderably from the earthquake of 
the year 63 ; it has a vestibule 
paved with mosaics, and in the 
centre of its quadrangle a reservoir 
for the rain water which feU on its 
roof ; this reservoir appears to have 
had a covering. At the back of the 
house is another vestibule ; and 
under the sitting rooms and bed 
chambers (all of which are paved 
with mosaics, and more or less de- 
corated with paintings) are subter- 
ranean offices, a rare thing at Pom- 
peii ; skeletons of females, with 
rings, bracelets, and a considerable 
number of coins, were found in this 
house. 

Crypto-Porticus and Ckalcidicum, 
built by Eumachia. — In the Via 
Appia, and near the Forum Civile, 
over the entrance to what seems to 
have been a covered passage, is the 
following inscription : — 

Eumachia. L. F. Sacerd. Publ. Nomine 
Suo et M. Numistr. 1 Frontonis. Fili. 
Chalcidicum Cryptam Porticus Concordiae 
Augustae Pietati sua Pecunia Fecit 
Eademque Dedicavit. 

Just beyond this passage, and 
leading to what appears to have 
been a chalcidicum, is the statue of 
a female in a vestal's dress, with the 



following inscription on the pede- 
stal : — 

Eumachias. L. F. Sacerd. Publ. FuUones. 

This statue still remains on the 
spot where it was discovered in the 
summer of 1820; and, judging from 
the inscriptions, it seems that Eu- 
machia, a pubhc priestess, built at 
her own expense, in her own name 
and that of another person, a chal- 
cidicum and Crypto-Porticus, and 
likewise paid for having them con- 
secrated to the use of the Pompeian 
washerwomen, by whom, as a token 
of gratitude, her statue was erected. 
The chalcidicum (a spacious piazza) 
was adorned with colonnades ele- 
vated on steps, some parts of which 
are cased with white marble, and 
other parts unfinished ; but the 
marble slabs, prepared for casing 
the imfinished parts, were discover- 
ed on an adjacent spot, where they 
may still be seen. The centre of 
the chalcidicum evidently contained 
a large sheet of water, in which 
were several washing blocks, cased 
with white marble ; these blocks, 
and the channel through which the 
water was conveyed into this spa- 
cious basin, still remain, as does a 
small temple fronting the Formn 
Civile, from which there seems to 
have been an entrance into the 
chalcidicum. 

Continuation of the Via Appia. — 
On each side of this street are 
shops and other buildings, which 
exhibit the names and occupations 
of the persons by whom they were 
once inhabited : these names, &c., are 
written with red paint ; and the 
wall fronting the Via Appia, and 
belonging to the chalcidicum, dis- 
plays the ordinances of the ma- 
gistrates, the days appointed for 
festivals, &c., likewise written with 
red paint. Here are bakers' shops, 
containing mills for pulverizing 
corn ; oil and wine shops, a house 
adorned with pictures of ancient 
divinities : and another house ele- 



NAPLES. — ENVIRONS. ROUTE 121. POMPEII. 



835 



gantly painted, and supposed to 
have belonged to a jeweller. In 
this street, and likewise in other 
parts of the town, are several foun- 
tains, which were supplied by 
water brought in a canal from the 
Sarno : and at the lower end of the 
street, near the portico leading to 
the Tragic Theatre, "was found, in 
1812, a skeleton, supposed to be the 
remains of a priest of Isis, with a 
large quantity of coins, namely, 
three hundred and sixty pieces of 
silver, forty-two of bronze, and 
eight of gold, wrapped up in cloth 
so strong as not to have perished 
during more than seventeen cen- 
turies. Here likewise were found 
several silver vases, some of them 
evidently sacrificial, and belonging 
to the temple of Isis ; small silver 
spoons, cups of gold and silver, a 
valuable cameo, rings, silver bas- 
reliefs, &c. 

Portico ornamented with six Co- 
lumns of Tufa. — The capitals of the 
columns which supported this por- 
tico appear to have been handsome, 
and its front, according to an in- 
scription on a pedestal that still re- 
mains, was adorned with the statue 
of Marcus Claudius MarceUus, son 
of Caius, patron of Pompeii. The 
statue, however, has not been 
found. Beyond this portico is a 
long colonnade, leading to the 
Tragic Theatre. 

Temple of Hercules. — This edifice, 
apparently more ancient than any 
otiier temple at Pompeii, is said to 
have been thrown down by the 
earthquake of the year 63, rebuilt, 
but again demolished in 79. The 
ruins prove, however, that it was 
once a stately Doric structure, 
which stood on a quadrilateral plat- 
form, with three steps on every 
side leading up to it. The platform 
still remains, and is ninety feet 
long, by about sixty feet wide. 
Traces of gigantic columns also re- 
main ; and beyond the platform, 
and nearly fronting the east, are 



three altars : that in the centre is 
small, and probably held the sacred 
fire ; those on the sides are large, 
low, and shaped hke sarcophagi : 
the latter kind of altar, called Ara, 
being, when sacrifices were made to 
the terrestrial deities, the place on 
which the victim was burnt. Be- 
hind these altars is a receptacle for 
the sacred ashes ; near the temple 
is a burial-place, and on the left a 
semicircular bench, decorated with 
lions' claws carved in tufa : it re- 
sembles the seats near the Hercula- 
neum gate. 

Upper entrance to the Tragic 
Theatre. — This wall has been re- 
stored, and beyond it are steps 
leading down to the postscenium of 
the Tragic Theatre ; and Hkewise to 
the Forum Nondinarium, so called 
because a market was held there 
every ninth day. JS^ot far thence 
was the great reservoir of the 
water of the Sarno, which supplied 
the lower part of the city, and par- 
ticularly the Forum Nondinarium. 

Tribunal, or Curia of Pompeii. — 
This is an oblong court, surrounded 
by porticoes ; and containing a 
rostrum, built of peperino, with 
steps ascending to it. The tribunal 
is supposed to have been erectedby 
a family, who likewise built at 
their own expense the Tragic 
Theatre; and a Crypto-Porticus, in 
order to adorn the colony. 

Temple of Isis. — It appears, from 
an inscription found here, that this 
edifice was thrown down by the 
earthquake of 63, and rebuilt by 
Numerius Popidius Celcinus. It 
is sixty-eight feet long, by sixty 
feet wide ; in good preservation ; 
and peculiarly weE worth notice; 
for, to contemplate the altar 
whence so many oracles have issued, 
to discern the identical spot where 
the priests concealed themselves, 
when they spoke for the statue of 
their goddess, to view the secret 
stairs by which they ascended into 
the sanctum sanctorum; in short, 



836 



SOUTHERN ITALY. — EOUTE 121. POMPEII. 



to examine tlie construction of a 
temple more Egyptian than Greek, 
excites no common degree of inter- 
est. This temple is a Doric edifice, 
composed of bricks, stuccoed, paint- 
ed, and polished. The sanctum 
sanctorum stands on seven steps 
(one cased with Parian marble), 
its form being nearly a square; its 
walls, which are provided with 
niches for statues, display, among 
other ornaments in stucco, the 
pomegranate, called in Greek roia, 
and one of the emblems of Isis. 
The pavement is mosaic. Here, on 
two altars, were suspended the 
Isiac tables, and two quadrangular 
basins of Parian marble, to contain 
the purifying water, were likewise 
found here ; each standing on one 
foot of elegant workmanship, and 
bearing this inscription: Longinus 
II Vir. On the high altar stood the 
statue of Isis ; and immediately 
beneath this altar are apertures to 
the hiding place for the priests; 
contiguous to which are the secret 
stairs. The lower end of the 
temple, fronting the sanctum sanc- 
torum, contains the altars whereon 
victims were burnt ; together with 
the receptacles of their ashes, and 
the reservoir for the purifying 
water. A figure of Harpocrates 
was found in a niche opposite to 
the high altar. Other parts of the 
temple contain small altars, a 
kitchen, in which are found cuhnary 
utensils of creta cotta (containing 
ham-bones and remains of fishes), 
together with the skeleton of a 
priest, leaning agamst the wall, and 
holding in his hand a hatchet. 
Here also is a refectory, where the 
priests were dining at the moment 
of the eruption which entombed their 
city; and where chickens' bones, 
eggs, and earthen vessels, were 
.discovered ; burnt bread was like- 
wise found here, together with the 
skeletons of priests, who either had 
not time to make their escape, or felt 
it a duty not to abandon their god- 



dess. When this temple was exca- 
vated, its walls exhibited paintings 
of Isis with the sistrum, Anubis 
with a dog's head, priests with 
palm branches and ears of corn, 
and one priest holding a lamp ; the 
hippopotamus, the ibis, the lotus, 
dolphins, birds, and arabesques. 
Most of these, however, have been 
removed to Naples, as have the 
statues of Isis, Venus, Bacchus, 
Priapus, and two Egyptian idols in 
basalt, which were likewise found 
here. Sacrificial vessels of every 
description, candelabra, tripods, and 
couches for the gods, were also dis- 
covered in this temple. 

Not far hence is an edifice which, 
judging by the rings of iron found 
in its walls, was probably the re- 
ceptacle for beasts destined to be 
slain on the Isiac altars. 

Temple qfJEsculapius. — The cen- 
tre of this little building contains a 
low altar, made with tufa, and 
shaped like a sarcophagus. The 
ceUa is placed on nine steps ; and 
seems, if we may judge by the 
traces of columns still discernible, 
to have been covered with a roof. 
Here were found statues of ^scu- 
lapius, Higeia, and Priapus, aU in 
creta cotta. 

Sculptor's Shop. — Several statues 
were discovered here ; some being- 
finished, others half finished, and 
others only just begun. Several 
blocks of marble, and various tools, 
now preserved in the Neapolitan 
academy of sculpture, were like- 
wise discovered here. 

Comic Theatre. — This edifice, 
built of tufa, and supposed to have 
been the odeum for music, is small, 
but nearly perfect; and was covered 
wdth a roof resting upon columns, 
between which were apertures 
for light. Here are the places 
for the proconsul and vestals, the 
orchestra, the proscenium, the scen- 
ium, and the postscenium ; together 
with all the benches, and staircases 
leading to them, for male spectators ; 



NAPLES. ENVIRONS. ROUTE 121. P03IPEIT. 



837 



and anotlier staircase leading to the 
portico or gallery, round the top of 
the theatre; in which gallery the 
females were placed. The orchestra 
is paved with marble, and exhibits 
the following inscription in bronze 
capitals : 

M. OcvLATivs M. F. Vervs 

II ViR PRO LVDIS. 

And on the outside of the edifice 
is another inscription, mentioning 
the names of the persons at whose 
expense it was roofed. 

Two admission tickets for thea- 
trical representations have been 
found at Pompeii: these tickets 
are circular, and made of bone ; on 
one of them is written A I CXTAOY, 
and above this word is marked the 
Roman number, XII, with the Greek 
corresponding numerical letters, IB, 
beneath it. The other ticket is 
numbered m a similar manner, and 
likewise marked with the name of 
a Greek poet ; both tickets having 
on the reverse side a draAving, 
which represents a theatre. The 
Odeum seems to have suffered from 
the earthquake of 63. 

Tragic Theatre. — This edifice, 
which stands upon a stratum of 
very ancient lava, is much larger 
than the Odeum ; and, in point of 
architecture, one of the most beau- 
tiftd buildings in Pompeii. It was 
composed of tufa, lined throughout 
with Parian marble; and still ex- 
hibits the orchestra, the proscenium, 
the stage ; the marks where scenes 
or a curtain were fixed; the podium 
on the right of the orchestra for 
the chief magistrate, where acurule 
chair was found; the podium on 
the left for the vestals, the benches 
for patricians and knights in the 
lower part of the cavea, and those 
for plebeians in the upper part ; 
the entrance for patricians and 
knights; the entrance and stairs 
for plebeians ; the gallery round 
the top of the theatre for ladies ; 



which gallery appears to have been 
fenced with bars of iron (as the 
holes in the marble and the remains 
of lead used for fixing the bars may 
still be discovered); the stairs of 
entrance to this gallery, and the 
blocks of marble projecting from 
its walls, so as to support the wood 
work, to which, in case of rain or in- 
tense heat, an awning was fastened. 
The stage, judging by the niches 
that still remain, appears to have 
been adorned with statues: the 
proscenium is enclosed by dwarf 
walls, and divides the stage from the 
orchestra and seats appropriated 
to the audience. This stage, like 
those of modern days, is more 
elevated at the upper than the 
lower end; very wide, but so shal- 
low, that much scenery could not 
have been used; although the an- 
cients changed their scenes by aid 
of engines, with which they turned 
the partition, called the scena, 
round at pleasure. There are three 
entrances for the actors all in front ; 
and behind the stage are remains 
of the postscenium. 

This theatre stands on the side 
of a hill, according to the custom 
of the Greeks ; and on the summit of 
this hill was an extensive colonnade, 
destined, perhaps, to shelter the spec- 
tators in wet weather, and likewise to 
serve as a pubhc walk; the view it 
commands being delightful. 

The comic and tragic theatres 
stand near each other and contig- 
uous to a public building sur- 
rounded with colonnades, and sup- 
posed to have been 

The Forum Nundinarium. — This 
forum is of an oblong shape, and 
bordered by columns of the Doric 
order Avithout bases, the materials 
of which they are composed being 
tufa stuccoed, and painted either 
red or yeUow, as was the general 
practice at Pompeii. These columns 
stiU exhibit figures in armour, and 
names of persons traced, no doubt, 
by the ancient inhabitants of this 

T 



838 



SOUTHERN ITALY. — ^EOUTB 121. POMPEII. 



forum to while away their vacant 
hours. Within the colonnades are 
rooms of yarious dimensions, sup- 
posed to hare served as shops and 
magazines for merchandize; some 
of the largest being about fifteen 
feet square : and above these rooms 
was a second story, which appears 
to have been surrounded with 
wooden balconies. In one room 
was found an apparatus for making 
soap ; in another a mill for pul- 
verizing corn ; and in another 
an apparatus for expressing oil. 
On the eastern side of this forum 
were stalls for cattle; and in the 
prison or guardhouse were found 
skeletons in the stocks, armour, 
and the crest of a helmet, adorned 
with a representation of the siege 
of Troy. The square contains a 
fountain of excellent water, a small 
ancient table and likewise a large 
modern table, shaded by weeping 
willows, so as to make a pleasant 
dining place in warm weather. 

A considerable distance across a 
vineyard leads to the 

Amphitheatre. — In the centre of a 
spacious piazza (probably a circus 
for chariot races), stands this colos- 
sean edifice ; which, when disen- 
tombed, was so perfect that the 
paintings on the stuccoed wall sur- 
rounding the arena appeared as 
fresh as if only just finished: but, 
on being too suddenly exposed to 
the air, the stucco cracked and fell 
ofi"; so that very few paintings now 
remain. The form of this amphi- 
theatre is oval ; the architecture 
particularly fine; and a handsome 
arcade, once embellished with sta- 
tues, the niches and inscriptions 
belonging to which stiU remain, 
leads down to the principal en- 
trance. This arcade is paved with 
lava, and the statues it contained 
were those of C. Cuspius Pansa 
and his son. The amphitheatre 
rests upon a circular subterranean 
corridor of incredible strength, as 
it supports all the seats. An iron 



railing seems to have defended tlie 
spectators who sat in the first row ; 
and the entrances of the arena ap- 
pear to have been defended \s>y iron 
grates. The walls of the podium, 
when first unburied, displayed 
beautiful paintings; but oii being 
exposed to the air they were de- 
stroyed, like those in the arena. 
Above a flight of steps leading to 
the upper seats is a bas-relief (in 
marble), which represents a cha- 
rioteer driving over his opponent; 
and above the seats is a gallery 
which was appropriated to female 
spectators: it encircles the top of 
the edifice, and commands a mag- 
nificent prospect of Vesuvius, Cas- 
tellamare, the site of Stabiae, the 
mouth of the Sarno, and the beau^ 
tiful bay of Naples : and in the 
upper part of the circular wall of 
this gallery are blocks of stone, 
pierced to receive the poles which 
supported the awning. 

Near the northern entrance to 
the amphitheatre are remains of a 
building furnished with a tricli- 
nium ; and therefore supposed to 
have been the silicernium belonging 
to the edifice. 

City Walls. — Pompeii Avas forti- 
fied by double walls, built with large 
pieces of tufa; one wall encompass- 
ing the city, the other passing 
through the centre of a ditch, made 
to strengthen the fortification ; and 
between these walls is the broad 
platform of the ancients, which, at 
Pompeii, seems to have been twenty 
feet in breadth. The walls were 
about twenty feet high; some parts 
consisting of smooth stones, from 
four to five feet square, and appa- 
rently not joined by any cement, 
though placed with such skill as to 
resemble one entire mass ; while 
other parts are ill built, with rough 
stones of various shapes and sizes, 
and were perhaps hastily piled toge- 
ther after the destructive earth- 
quake of the year 63. Curious 
characters are engraved on some of 



NAPLES. — ROUTE 122. EXCURSION TO SORRENTO. 



839 



these stones. The walls were for- 
tified with low square towers, and 
the four gates of the city stood at 
right angles. 

In addition to the buildings enu- 
merated there are many others, 
named after some peculiar object 
found in the ruins, or in honour of 
the person of distinction in whose 
presence the excavation took place, 
as the house of the Emperor Joseph 
II, Emperor Francis 11, Grand Duke 
of Tuscany, &c. &c. 

ROUTE 122. 

EXCURSION TO SORRENTO, CAPRI, 
AND AMAXFI. 

For railway fares and hours of 
departure, see Route 120. 

Castellamare. — Inns : Albergo Im- 
perial, the best ; L'liaUa di Londra. 
This fashionable though dirty water- 
ing place is the rendezvous of many 
rich and distinguished foreigners, 
attracted by the freshness of the 
air breathed in its shady valleys 
and in the splendid alleys of chest- 
nut trees belonging to the casino. 
The permission to walk and ride in 
this noble forest is easily obtained 
from the comptroller of the king's 
household, through your ambas- 
sador. 

The mountain is rarely ascended 
but on one of the little horses or 
asses that may be hired at its foot. 
The donkeys trot and gallop well, 
and are managed with ease ; in 
fact, they are excellently trained. 
To go to the top of the mountain 
costs 5 granas for the ass and 2 for 
the guide ; 12, 15, and 20 granas 
per course, according to its length, 
not including the buona-mano. If 
taken by the day, 4 carlini for an 
ass and 12 for a horse. 

Baths. — During the months of 
June and July Castellamare is 
much frequented by visitors from 
Naples and from the provinces, for 
the benefit of its sea baths or for 
its sulphurous ferruginous springs 



that are abundantly found in the 
mountain. These waters are effica- 
cious against obstructions, weakness 
of the stomach, headaches, &c. 

At the railway terminus will be 
found carriages to convey travellers 
to Sorrento ; time, two hours ; the 
usual charge for a carriage for four 
persons is 1 to 1^ piasters, with a 
couple of carlins for buona-mano. 
The ride along the coast is magni- 
ficent, and the road excellent. 

Sorrento. — Hotel La Sirena (Mer- 
maid). The situation of this house 
is most lovely — a large terrace and 
garden overlooking the bay of Na- 
ples. The rooms are comfortably 
and handsomely furnished ; the 
dinners and wines exquisite ; the 
landlords (the brothers Garjiulo) 
are attentive, civil, and extremely 
moderate in their charges, very in- 
telligent, and speak English re- 
markably well. Attached to the 
hotel is a dashing six -oared cutter 
to convey strangers to Capri, Amalfi, 
Temple of Hercules, and other in- 
teresting places in the neighbour- 
hood. 

The cost of a boat with six oars 
to and from Capri is 4 piasters ; 
four oars, 3 piasters ; in fine weather 
the distance, about fifteen miles, 
may be done in three hours from 
Sorrento, and from Massa in two 
hours. Those who like to diversify 
the route take mules to Massa, 
where the boat may be ordered to 
meet you. This up and down ride 
over the mountains is highly in- 
teresting, but of course it increases 
the expense, as the hire of the mule 
(10 carlini) is in addition to the 
cost for the boat, which is the same 
whether you embark at Sorrento or 
Massa. 

Sorrento, anciently called Syren- 
tum, from the exquisite beauty of 
its scenery, was, according to tra- 
dition, founded by Ulysses ; though 
it more probably derived its exist- 
ence from a band of Phoenician ad- 
venturers. It was colonised by 



840 



SOUTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 122. SORRENTO. 



Augustus ; but must have been a 
place of considerable consequence 
in much earlier times, as it gave its 
name to the Promontory which 
closes the bay of Naples to the 
south-west. It is between five and 
six leagues distant from Naples ; 
and lies on the left side of the bay, 
near the ancient JEquana, a station 
on the Via Domitiana now called 
Equa, and not far from Vico, the 
ancient Vicus ^quanus. 

Madame Starke who had a house 
at Sorrento where she occasionally 
resided, and who is supposed to 
have studied the history of the 
place, gives the following interesting 
account of Sorrento. 

^' Syrentum, in the days of Au- 
gustus and Tiberius is supposed to 
have been more extensive than Nea- 
polis ; but during the year 79, when 
the waters of the Tyrrhenian sea re- 
treated from the walls of Pompeii, 
they seem to have encroached on 
the Siren shore, destroying a mag- 
nificent quay which extended from 
the town of Syrentum to the base 
of a cliff crowned by the temple of 
Ceres, and ruining all the contiguous 
public edifices. The corridors and 
temples (delved in a cliff" situated 
beneath the Cocumella), which are 
called by tradition the caves of 
Ulysses, and supposed, subsequently 
to his circuitous voyage, to have 
been consecrated to the Sirens, re- 
main, however, nearly perfect re- 
specting their shape, though stripped 
of all their decorations. The en- 
trance from the sea to these caves 
resembles the description given by 
Homer of the abode of the giant 
shepherd Polyphemus ; even the 
very landing place may be figured 
as the enormous rock with which 
he closed his den. Moreover, there 
certainly did exist at some remote 
jjeriod, on the Sorrentine shore, a 
race of giants ; for in ancient 
tombs discovered here skeletons up- 
ward of eight feet long have been 
found, with skulls proportionably 



large ; and as Capri answers to 
Homer's description of the island 
called by his commentators Lachsea 
— as it seems, judging from Virgil, 
Statins, and Tacitus, to have been 
uninhabited in Homer's days — and 
as it possesses, on its south-eastern 
shore, a harbour, where Tiberius 
kept a squadron to guard his person, 
probably Homer meant to describe 
Ulysses as having (after he quitted 
the JEolian Isles the second time) 
anchored at Caprese, and left his 
fleet there, proceeding himself, with 
one vessel only, to the promontory 
of Surrentum, encountering on that 
coast Polyi:)hemus, thence sail- 
ing to the country of the Laestri- 
gones, near Caieta; and, after the 
destruction of his vessels by those 
savages, gaining, with one bark 
alone, ^ria, the realm of Circe. 
But, be this as it may, the interior 
of these caves, judging by their 
present appearance, are more pro- 
bably the scene whence Virgil bor- 
rowed images for his 'Tartarus,' 
than is the grotto of the Cumgean 
sibyl. On the strand to the right 
of these caves are remains of what 
appears to have been a silicemium; 
and farther to the right, at the 
brink of a cliff" near the Capuchin 
convent, are vestiges of a colum- 
barium. On a cliff" to the left of the 
Temples of the Sirens, are the sub- 
structions of the immense and mag- 
nificent Temple of Ceres, which 
once adorned this coast, and gave 
her name to what is now denomi- 
nated the promontory of Sorrento ; 
and on the strand beneath this 
temple pieces of a composition called 
Sorrento stone, supposed to have 
originally made part of the incrust- 
ations of the temple, are frequently 
found. The colour of the composition 
is blue, some pieces being opaque, 
others transparent. Emeralds and 
white cornelians are likewise found 
on the Sorrentine shore; and persons 
wishing to examine the substruc- 
tions of the Temple of Ceres should 



STAPLES. — ROUTE 122. SORRENTO. 



841 



seek for them on the cliff, near 
which an extensive range of arches, 
chambers, and reticulated brick- 
work, belonging to the ancient edi- 
fice, may still be seen ; and in the 
kitchen of the villa is an ancient 
well, communicating, by means of 
a subterranean aqueduct, with the 
celebrated Greek piscinae which 
supply the town of Sorrento with 
water. Splendid columns of Cipol- 
lino, and various other archi- 
tectural decorations, have been 
found within the precincts of this 
temple. On the side of the ancient 
quay, now inundated by the sea, 
and close to the Marina Piccola di 
Sorrento, stands a pile of ancient 
brickwork, which, according to 
tradition, was a monument erected 
by the Sorrentines to the memory 
of Lyparus, a foreign prince, who 
resided among them, and was a 
great benefactor to their country. 
Between the Marina Piccola and 
the Marina Grande di Sorrento is a 
magnificent Grecian arch, supposed 
to have been the entrance to the 
ceUa of a temple dedicated to Nep- 
tune ; the cella is entire, its incrust- 
ations excepted ; and ancient cor- 
ridors, nearly perfect, lead down 
from a cliff at Sorrento (on which 
stands the Palazzo MastroiiH) to 
the interior of this temple. Proxi- 
mate to the above-named Grecian 
arch, on the strand, or, more pro- 
perly speaking, in the sea, are huge 
masses of ancient stonework and 
brickwork, which evidently made 
part of the temple, together with a 
small corridor, nearly perfect, al- 
though half filled with water, and 
leading to a large circular, well-pre- 
served ancient bath, which, by the 
aid of a boat, may be seen through 
a chasm in the cliff, and is said to 
contain paintings. Beyond this 
bath is another, of a quadrilateral 
form, uncommonly large, in perfect 
preservation, and supposed to have 
belonged to a temple consecrated to 
V^nus. It is practicable to enter 



and row round this bath in a small 
boat. To the left of the town, and 
at the point of the promontory d 
Sorrento, on a rock considerably 
undermined and worn away by the 
sea, are remains of a quadrilateral 
edifice of reticulated brickwork, 
supposed to have been a temple 
consecrated to Hercules. Large 
masses of the opus reticulatum, 
some of which are nearly covered 
with water, a terrace with its ori- 
ginal pavement remaining, and cor- 
ridors stuccoed, and in one part 
painted with the Tyrian purple, so 
prevalent at Pompeii, are all now 
discoverable of this temple : on the 
ascent behind which are interesting 
traces of the villa of Vedius Pollio, 
namely, remains of a bridge ; two 
salt water reservoirs for fishes, in 
one of which is a rill of spring 
water ; a kitchen, with its stoves 
and fire place quite perfect; several 
adjoining rooms, probably ofiices 
for servants, pavements of an- 
cient stucco ; and walls of the 
opus reticulatum. The reservoir, 
into which flows the riU of spring 
water, was probably devoted to a 
species of fish already mentioned, 
called the moruna, and supposed to 
thrive best in a mixture of fresh 
and salt water. It is said that 
when Augustus was feasting with 
Vedius Pollio in this viUa, a slave 
broke, by accident, a crystal vase, 
belonging to a costly set ; upon 
which Pollio condemned liim to be 
thrown into the reservoir and be- 
come food for the fishes ; but Au- 
gustus, indignant at this cruel 
order, forbade its execution, like- 
wise commanding the whole set of 
crystal to be broken and thrown 
into the sea, and the reservoir to be 
rendered useless. 

In a cove beyond the villa of 
PoUio are considerable vestiges of 
ancient arches, corridors, &c., now 
called Portiglione ; perhaps a cor- 
ruption of the words Porta and 
Leone ; for these arches, according 



842 



SOUTHEKN ITALY. — ^ROUTE 122. SORRENTO. 



to the present appearance of the 
ruins, may probably have been 
entrances to caves belonging to an 
amphitheatre, and consequently 
appropriated to lions and other wild 
beasts. The ascent from the cove 
to the ruins above the arches being 
steep and dangerous, it is advisable, 
after having viewed the arches from 
the cove, to row to the Marina di 
Paola (situated between the cove 
and the villa of Pollio), landing 
there, and then walking to the 
cliff (immediately above the cove), 
where, in a farm, are ruins which 
evidently communicated with those 
below, called Portiglione. The 
shape of these ruins, and the arches 
still visible in that part nearest to 
the cove, seem to announce an 
amphitheatre ; and behind these 
ruins are considerable remains of 
walls of reticulated brickwork, 
which, judging by their form, appear 
to have enclosed a circus : and in 
this enclosure a fine column of 
marble, probably used instead of 
an obelisk, was, not long since, dis- 
covered. It seems likely that the 
amphitheatre and circus, if such 
they were, might have been com- 
mon to the inhabitants of Syrentum 
and Massa ; as the former town is 
supposed to have extended nearly 
to the villa of Pollio, and the latter 
town (of great celebrity in ancient 
days) is not far distant from Por- 
tiglione. Beyond this cove, on a 
height now called Punta della Cam- 
panella, but anciently denominated 
Surrentinum Promontorium, and 
likewise Athenaeum, stood a temple 
consecrated to Minerva, and if we 
may credit Seneca and Strabo, built 
by Ulysses ; but this temple, another 
consecrated to ApoUo, which stood 
on the same promontory, and seve- 
ral more temples, mentioned by 
classic writers, as having once 
adorned the Sorrentine coast, are 
now levelled with the soil, or en- 
gulfed by the sea. 
The town of Sorrento has suffered 



so severely from earthquakes, war, 
and rapine, that few of its anti- 
quities remain : it was, however, 
not long since embellished with one 
of the finest Egyptian statues ex- 
tant ; but all the upper part has 
been purloined ; and Httle is now to 
be seen except the pedestal; one 
large fragment of which was found, 
during the year 1834, in a building 
opposite to the spot where the 
broken pedestal remains. This frag- 
ment is covered with hieroglyphics, 
denoting that Osirei, the father of 
Sesostris, and the sovereign repre- 
sented by the statue, reigned over 
an obedient people. The hiero- 
glyphics in question are particularly 
deep, and well cut ; and the tomb of 
Osirei, when opened by Belzoni at 
Thebes, was found to be the most 
magnificent there. 

We have no record respecting 
the time when the statue of Osirei 
was brought to Sorrento. An in- 
scription, at the Piano Gate, in 
honour of Trajan, and another in 
honour of Antoninus Pius (both 
nearly obliterated), another under 
the portico of the church of St Anto- 
nino, mentioning a temple dedicated 
to Venus ; columns, sarcophagi, and 
altars, may still be found here. 
Ancient bas-reliefs of dolphins, 
the emblems (as before observed) of 
a maritime people, ornament some 
of the fountains. A small part of 
the exterior wall of the Pantheon is 
discoverable on the outside of the 
church of St Baeolo ; and fixed in 
the walls of an archway, leading 
to the cathedral, are bas-reliefs^ 
much injured by time, but very 
beautiful. The cathedral evidently 
stands upon the site of an ancient 
temple, the court of which remains : 
the doorcase of the principal en- 
trance to this church is composed 
of Parian marble finely worked, and 
taken from the temple of ApoUo ; 
and the superb bas-reliefs above 
this splendid doorcase exhibits gry- 
phons and acanthus leaves, and 



NAPLES. — ROUTE 122. SOREENTO. 



843 



likewise belonged originally to the 
temple of Apollo ; as did the door- 
case of one of the lateral entrances 
to the church, and some of its inte- 
rior ornaments. 

The Archiepiscopal palace con- 
tains two fine Grecian bas-reliefs, 
representing the Battle of the Ama- 
zons ; a crozier of Corinthian brass, 
supposed to have been one of the 
very first that were made ; and, in 
the garden, a beautiful Greek vase, 
probably designed to contain the 
aqua lustrale of the ancients. 
Beyond the Piano gate, in a street 
denominated the Borgo, are anti- 
quities which deserve especial no- 
tice, namely, the Greek Piscinae, 
repaired by Antoninus Pius, in the 
year 160, and still quite perfect. 
Here are a considerable number of 
wells, apparently intended to venti- 
late this immense reservoir, which 
now, as in times past, supplies the 
town of Sorrento and its Piano with 
excellent purified water, brought 
through an aqueduct from the 
, Apennine. The arches of the reser- 
voir are so skilfully constructed as 
to support a large garden, which 
contains the loftiest orange trees 
in the whole Piano ; and adjoining 
this garden are other weUs, appa- 
rently intended to ventilate the 
reservoir, together with considera- 
ble remains of a Crypto Porticus, 
and a structure which resembled 
a Ifaumachia, till filled with earth, 
and planted with vegetables. Far- 
ther on, in the way to the village 
of St Agnello, is the site of an 
ancient temple, supposed to have 
been dedicated to Venus : and here 
are myrtle trees so large and appa- 
rently so old, that one could almost 
fancy them coeval with the temple 
in the court of which they vegetate. 
At the end of a lane, near the 
Capuchin convent, is a Masseria, 
where remains of an ancient Roman 
edifice, probably a temple conse- 
crated to Vesta, may be traced. 
Meta, a large town, immediately 



under the limestone mountains, at 
the extremity of the Piano, contains 
a handsome church, beautifully 
situated, and near which are seve- 
ral very old and fine wild olive 
trees, reported to have been sacred 
to Minerva ; and this circumstance, 
united with the commanding posi- 
tion of the church, induces a belief 
that it was built on the site of a 
temple dedicated to ISIinerva, The 
ancient public burial ground, in 
which several Phoenician tombs, 
skeletons, Carthaginian, Greek, and 
Roman coins, lamps, vases, and 
personal ornaments, have been dis- 
covered, is situated on the left side 
of the highway leading from Sor- 
rento to Ponte Maggiore, a bridge 
at the base of the limestone moun- 
tains : and in some of these tombs 
skeletons have been found, from 
seven to eight feet long, with skulls 
large in proportion. Patches of 
ancient pavement are seen in the 
streets of Sorrento ; which resemble 
those of Pompeii, as does the manner 
in which the houses are constructed. 
The fortifications, though of mo- 
dern date, merit notice, because 
they are supposed to have been the 
first erected^ either in Italy or 
Magna Graecia, for the purpose of 
having cannon planted on them. 
But the object peculiarly interesting 
to strangers is the paternal mansion 
and birthplace of the amiable though 
unfortunate Torquato Tasso, one of 
the greatest poets whose inspira- 
tions have shed a lustre over modem 
ages. This mansion, delightfully 
situated on a cliff supposed to have 
been the site of an ancient temple, 
displays, on an outside waU, a mu- 
tilated bust, in terra cotta, of the 
immortal bard ; and in the saloon 
upstairs are, a marble bust, called 
Bernardo Tasso, though more pro- 
bably it represents a Roman sena- 
tor ; a medallion of Alexander, finely 
executed ; another of Julius Caesar 
when young; another of Agrippina; 
and another of Marcus Aurelius: 



SOUTHERN ITALY. -^R,OtJTE 122. SORRENTO. 



they are ancient, and were all found 
at Sorrento. Beyond the saloon is 
a terrace, commanding an extensive 
view of the bay of Naples ; but the 
chamber in which Torquato Tasso 
was born is fallen mto the sea. This 
mansion now belongs to the Duca 
di Laurito, who descends in the 
female line from Tasso's family. 
When Bernardo, the father of Tor- 
quato, came from northern Italy to 
settle at Sorrento, he found its 
streets ornamented with handsome 
liouses, and their inhabitants so 
kind and hospitable to foreigners, 
that he calls the town "I'Albergo 
della Cortesia ;" speaks of the deli- 
ciousness of the fruit, the variety 
and excellence of the animal food; 
and then adds, " L'aere e si sereno, 
si temperato, si salutifero, si vitale, 
che gl'uomini, che senza provar 
altro cielo ci vivono sono quasi 
iramortali." Such, likewise, was 
the opinion of the ancients with 
respect to the Sorrentine climate ; 
for Galen, one of the most enlight- 
ened . and successful physicians of 
antiquity, advised all his patients 
who required invigorating air to 
visit this Piano, or the contiguous 
Lactarian hills ; and to Galen, vir- 
tually, are the Sorrentines indebted 
for the reparation of their Piscinae 
(a.d. 160) by his imperial i>atient, 
Antoninus Pius, whom he sent 
hither. There is no spot in south- 
ern Italy, or Magna Grsecia, so 
temperately warm during summer, 
so well screened from the east wind 
during winter and spring, or so 
much calculated, at all seasons, to 
})romote longevity, as the Piano di 
Sorrento. This plain, which ex- 
tends about three miles in length 
and one in breadth, appears to be 
the mouth of an extinct volcano, as 
it consists of deep and narrow 
ravines, now formed into roads and 
footpaths ; volcanic rocks, caverns, 
and small level spots of tufa ; while 
t]ie surrounding mountains are all 
composed of Hmestone. The plain 



is one continued series of orchards, 
divided from each other by walls, and , 
intersected with viUas, towns, and' 
villages. These orchards, however, 
are not of the common sort ; for here 
the pomegranate, the aloe, the acacia, 
the abeal, the mulberry, the apple, 
the pear, the apricot, the peach, the 
sorbus, the fig, the vine, the olive, 
the bay, the cypress, the chestnut, 
the walnut, the wide-speading oak, 
and magnificent maritime stone- 
pine, are so beautifully mingled 
and contrasted with multithdes of- 
oranges and lemons, that persons 
standing on an eminence, and look- 
ing down upon this spot, might 
fancy it the garden of the Hespe- 
rides. The plain rises gradually to 
the height of a thousand feet above 
the level of the sea, and is bounded 
by the Montes Lactarii, beyond 
which, on the east, rises the moun- 
tain of St Angelo, reputed to be 
5,000 feet above the level of the 
sea; therefore the smi, dimng sum- 
mer, does not shine on the Piano 
till three-quarters of a,n hour after 
he has risen ; and when he descends 
into the caves of Thetis, the Piano 
is sheltered from his beams by wes- 
tern mountains ; consequently every 
summer night is deliciously cool. 
Moreover tliis Piano, being a nar- 
row peninsula between the immense 
bay of Naples and the still more 
extensive gulf of Salerno, is fanned 
continually by sea breezes ; neither 
can reflected heat be felt here, 
because the trees completely shadow 
the earth ; and as they are, gene- 
rally speaking, evergreens, except 
the deciduous plants whose leaves 
feed silkworms and cattle, Sorrento 
and the whole Piano are exempt 
from the noxious damps of autumn, 
produced by the annual decay of 
vegetation ; while the immense and 
lofty mountain of St Angelo screens 
them, during winter, from easterly 
winds. The Piano contains only 
two modern edifices worthy of 
notice: one is the Villa Correal©* 



NAPLES. — ROUTE 122. ENVIFONS OF SORRBNTO. 



845 



much admired for its beautiful 
staircase ; and the other is the 
Cocumella, which, like the houses 
at Pompeii, has a vestibule, and 
beyond it an open quadrangle, 
containing a curiously- constructed 
well of excellent water. Under this 
quadrangle are a crypto porticus 
and a large reservoir, the latter of 
which is said to communicate with 
the ancieut Greek Piscinse. The 
upper story of the Cocumella boasts 
a terrace which commands one of 
the loveliest prospects existing. 
The only wide carriage road of the 
Piano is three miles in length, and 
formed by means of bridges thrown 
over the ravines; the other public 
paths are narrow, though suffi- 
ciently wide for Sorrentine car- 
riages ; and all lie between lofty 
walls, which, however injurious to 
the beauty of the landscape, afford 
shade even at mid-day during sum- 
mer, and protection from equinoctial 
and wintry storms of wind. The 
town of Sorrento and its dependen- 
cies contain about 30,000 inhabit- 
ants, v/ho still deserve the character 
given of them by Bernardo Tasso, 
with respect to their attention and 
kindness to foreigners. Hospitable, 
so far as making entertainments 
go, they cannot be, having no 
longer the power ; but their fruit, 
time, and services, are always at 
the command of a foreigner. Three 
or four generations of one family 
often live together here, under the 
same roof, according to the ancient 
Grecian eu!>"tom ; and it is not un- 
common to see grandfathers and 
grandmothers above ninety years 
old, and perfectly exempt from 
infirmities. With respect to the 
healthfulness of the climate, there- 
fore, Bernardo Tasso seems again 
to have judged right ; and, with 
regard to provisions, beef, veal, fish, 
butter, milk, honey, fruits, and 
water, are all excellent. Hog-meat 
is so peculiarly fine, that hogs are 
denominated "the citizens of Sor- 



rento;" and the wine of this district 
is light and wholesome, although 
less esteemed now than it was by 
the ancients. Another circumstance, 
namely, the cleanliness of the Sor- 
rentines, with respect to their per- 
sons, houses, and public baths, tends 
much to promote the salubrity of their 
Piano ; and owing to the local situ- 
ation of this favoured spot, Fahren^ 
heit's thermometer, out of doors, 
when properly guarded from reflected 
heat, seldom rises higher here, during 
the day, in June, July, August, and 
September, than 76 deg. ; ne-ver 
higher than from 62 deg. to 64 deg. 
during the night; and during the 
peculiarly warm siammers of the 
years 1825 and 1826, its utmost 
height, at the hottest period of the 
day, seldom reached 77 deg. In 
winter it rarely falls below temperate. 
Lodging houses may be procured 
here at moderate prices : and the 
sobriety, civility, and general good 
conduct of the Sorrentines, enable 
strangers to walk alone at any hour of 
the day or night, in this district, 
without risk of being insulted or pil- 
laged. Sorrento has now become a 
bathing place, accommodations hav- 
ing been erected. 

ENVIRONS OF SORRENTO. 

The mountains which border the 
Piano di Sorrento abound with de- 
lightful walks and rides ; among 
the latter, that to the Conti della 
Pontanelle, e di Cermenna, is par- 
ticularly admired. Conti seems to 
be a corruption of the word Colli, 
hills which are situated between 
two and three miles from the town 
of Sorrento, and present a magni- 
ficent view df the gulfs of Naples 
and Salerno (both displayed at the 
same moment), the three islands 
of the Sirens, anciently the Sirenusse 
Insulse, immortalized by Homer, 
one of which contains ruins of an an- 
cient temple, the coast near Almalfi, 
the site of Psestum, and the heights 
near the gulf of Policastro. During 



846 SOUTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 122. ENVIRONS OF SORRENTO. 



the months of September and Octo- 
ber, immense nets for catching 
quails are erected on the spot; 
below which is the tunny fishery 
on the right, and on the left a stu- 
pendous arch formed by the hand of 
nature, near the margin of the gulf 
of Salerno ; which arch, and the path 
leading to it, furnish fine subjects 
for the pencil. In order to see this 
arch (called Arco di St. Elia), it is 
necessary to pass the wine-house on 
the summit of the hill, which rises 
between the gulfs of Naples and Sa- 
lerno ; then turning into a path on 
the left, through a small messaria, 
terminated by a clifiF, down which is 
a goat track terminated by the 
arch. 

The ride from the town of Sor- 
rento, through Arola, to St. Maria 
Castello, occupies about three hours 
and a half in going, but rather less 
in returning ; and displays beautiful 
and fsublime scenery. On reaching 
the foot of a hillock crowned by the 
church of Arola, the traveller 
should turn to the left ; passing 
down a lane, and thence proceeding 
through a pergola to a cottage ; on 
the left of which are steps leading 
to a pretty coppice, composed of 
arbuti, Mediterranean heaths, and 
other shrubs ; at the extremity of 
this coppice is a clifi', which com- 
mands the whole Piano di Sorrento, 
the bay of Naples, Vesuvius, and 
part of the gulf of Salerno. After 
having seen this view, the traveller 
should go back to the foot of the 
hillock crowned by the church of 
Arola ; thence ascending the hill 
on the right beyond the church, 
and passing through a village, and 
a chestnut wood, to the commence- 
ment of an eminence, on which 
stands the chapel of St. Maria Cas- 
tello. At the base of this eminence 
is a path on the right, leading to 
the brink of a precipice, which 
commands a sublime view of the 
town of Positano, the line of coast 
extending towards Amalfi, and the 



immense gulf of Salerno, After 
having seen this view, the traveller 
should proceed to St. Maria Castello, 
and then walk to the edge of a cliff 
on the right of a chapel, and dis- 
playing a prospect something simi- 
lar to that last mentioned, but more 
extensive. Near the chapel of St. 
Maria Castello is a solitary cottage, 
where bread, water, and food for 
mules, may be procured : and where 
persons who bring a cold dinner with 
them may find a small room to sit 
in, during their meal. 

Camaldoli, a suppressed but once 
magnificent convent, situated on 
the summit of one of the Lactarian 
hills, and well worth seeing, is not 
more than half an hour's walk from 
Arola, through a chestnut grove ; 
but persons who like horse exercise 
usually ride from Ponte Maggiore 
to Camaldoli, a distance of about 
two miles, and return by way of 
Arola. 

The ascent from the Piano di 
Sorrento to the summit of Monte 
Sant' Angelo, is not so easy as from 
Castellamare ; but, nevertheless, 
ladies carried by portantini, have 
been known to go and return in one 
day; and for gentlemen, this ex- 
cursion, with the aid of mules, is 
not very toilsome. The heights of 
Sant' Angelo are covered by noble 
woods, and embellished with beeches, 
unique in size and beauty ; the 
views in all directions are sublime ; 
and the repositories for ice, or 
more properly frozen snow, which 
supply Naples and its environs 
with that indispensable luxury, 
merit observation. The snow is 
preserved by being thrown into pits 
about fifty feet deep, and twenty- 
five broad at the top, in the form 
of a sugar loaf. About three feet 
from the bottom is a wooden grate, 
which serves tor a drain if ary of 
the snow should happen to melt ; 
and before it is thrown in, the pits 
are lined with straw and the prun- 
ings of trees. When thrown in, the 



NAPLES. — ROUTE 122. SORRENTO TO AMALFI. 



847 



snow is rammed down till it becomes 
a solid mass. It is afterwards 
covered with a roof in the form of 
a low cone, and chiefly composed of 
prunings of trees and straw. 

The ride going from the town of 
Sorrento to St Agata, by the new 
road, and returning through Massa, 
by the lower road, occupies about 
three hours, and exhibits beautiful 
scenery. The distance from Sorrento 
to St Agata, by the new road, is little 
more than a mile ; from St Agata to 
Massa, about two miles; and from 
Massa, by the lower road, to Sor- 
rento, about three miles; the town 
of Massa, nearly a mile in length, 
not being taken into this computa- 
tion. St Agata, placed at the sum- 
mit of one of the Lactarian hills, 
looking down on the giilf of Salerno, 
is a pretty village; at the end of 
which, hanging over the gulf, 
stands a spacious villa, called the 
Belvedere, and proximate to a ter- 
race commanding a superb view of 
the promontory of Minerva, the 
islands of the Sirens, and the whole 
extent of the gulf. 

Massa was a celebrated town in 
remote ages, so celebrated, that it 
gave, and indeed still gives its 
name to the whole district, on and 
adjoining the promontory of Mi- 
nerva, near which it stands. We 
are told by classic writers, that the 
sirens, Thelxiepaea and Aglaopheme, 
queens of certain small islands 
named Sirenusae, and situated in 
the Posidonian gulf, likewise bore 
sway over the promontory of Mi- 
nerva, and the town of Massa; 
where, during the reign of these 
siren queens, in the days of Ulysses, 
there was an academy renowned 
for learning and eloquence; but the 
students abused their knowledge, 
" to the colouriiig of wrong, and the 
corruption of manners;" conse- 
quently, the sirens were fabled, by 
the sweetness of their voices, to 
draw the unwary into ruin. Massa 
is delightfully situated among 
vineyards and olive gardens, on a 



cliff, washed by the waves of the 
bay of Naples, but not sufficiently 
high to command a view of the 
islands of the Sirens. Vestiges of 
an aqueduct, and other ancient 
buildings, may be traced here; and 
the town contains a small cathedral 
(in which there is a Httle picture 
of the Holy EamUy, attributed to 
Kaphael); a small episcopal palace, 
adjoining the cathedral; a hand- 
some church, near the marina; an4 
several good houses. The annual 
fete in this church, on the 15th o£ 
August, the fair during that day, 
and the fire- works in the evening, 
are supposed to be relics of the 
Ferise Stativae, celebrated annually 
by the Latins, and probably derived 
from the Greeks. There often is 
good music in the church at this 
festival, and a striking display of 
beauty among the female peasants. 

SORRENTO TO AMALFI. 

This excursion is particularly 
interesting ; and may be accom- 
phshed with ease, when the weather 
is cool and serene, either by land 
the whole way, or in part by water. 

The most eligible mode of goipg 
from Sorrento to Amalfi, sup- 
posing the weather favourable, 
is either to ride, or be carried in a 
chaise-a-porteurs, to that part of the 
conti where begins a rapid descent, 
called the Scaricatojo ; thence de- 
scending on foot to the MarineUa 
of the Scaricatojo iu the gulf of 
Salerno; where a boat, ordered 
over night, and of the largest size 
that the Marinella affords, should 
be in attendance. The ride to the 
Scaricatojo occupies about an hour 
and a quarter ; and the descent, 
which though steep is not danger- 
ous, occupies about an hour. On 
reaching the Marinella, travellers 
should embark, without loss of 
time, for Amalfi, passing Positano,a 
romantically situated town, peopled 
by rich merchants, and contaioing 
handsome houses. The time oc- 
cupied in rowing from the Mari- 



848 



SOUTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 122. SORRENTO TO AMALI*!, 



nella of the Scaricatojo to Amalfi 
is, generally speaking, somewhat 
less than three hours. The whole 
coast exhibits delightful scenery ; 
and the situation of Amalfi is pic- 
turesque beyond the power of words 
to describe. Amalfi boasts much 
of its high antiquity ; and still 
more of a copy of Justinian's Pan- 
dects having been found here ; and 
of the improvement, almost amount- 
ing to the discovery of the use, of 
the mariner's compass, made a.d. 
1302, by anAmalfitan called Flavio 
Oisia. Almalfi, in the middle ages, 
was a very powerful republic ; and 
its citizens (who were intelligent 
and courageous ) monopolized, about 
the ninth century, great part of the 
trade of the east. 

Another pleasant water excur- 
sion may be made to Capri. This 
sland, situated about five leagues 
rom Sorrento, is a picturesque mass 
f calcareous rocks, nine miles in 
rcumference; and was anciently 
called Capreae, from being peopled 
with goats. Its original inhabi- 
tants, goats excepted, are supposed 
to have been a colony from Acar- 
nania, in Epirus ; who were super- 
seded by the citizens of Neapolis ; 
and they, according to Strabo, gave 
it in exchange for Ischia, to Augus- 
tus. It is celebrated for having 
been chosen by him as an occasional 
retreat ; and by Tiberius as a resi- 
dence during several years. Augus- 
tus embellished it with splendid 
buildings ; and his unworthy suc- 
cessor had, in this small island, 
twelve superb viUas, strongly forti- 
fied, and consecrated to the twelve 
superior heathen deities. But as 
persons were sent to Capri, on the 
demise of Tiberius, to demolish his 
works so completely as not to leave 
one stone upon another, it is diffi- 
cult to ascertain where several of 
these edifices stood. The island 
now contains about 12,000 inha- 
bitants, the town of Capri (where 
the Archbishop of Sorrento has an 
episcopal palace) and the village of 



Ana-Capri : the ascent to which is 
by 535 steps. The inhabitants 
chiefly consist of landholders, me- 
chanics, sailors, and husbandmen: 
perfect equality reigns among them; 
every person appears industrious ; 
very few are wretchedly poor ; and 
so salubrious is the climate, that 
scarcely any maladies visit this 
spot. The soil produces excellent 
wine, oil, grain, and vegetables of 
every description, among which is 
the erba ruggine, used by dyers. 
Immense flights of quails visit 
Capri during the month of Septem- 
ber, and are caught in nets, to 
supply the Naples market. 

The most convenient way of 
managing this excursion is to hire 
a boat at Sorrento, taking a hmch 
with you, and setting out early in 
the morning ; as about ten hours 
are required for rowing to the 
island, seemg its antiquities, and 
returning to dinner at Sorrento. 

The chief object of interest to 
strangers visiting Capri is the blue 
cave, or Grotta Azzura, situated 
westward of the usual landing- 
place, and about one mile and a 
half distant from it. This singular 
cavern is well worthy a visit, but 
those who do so are obliged to place 
themselves horizontally in the little 
bark destined to convey them 
through a low and narrow aperture, 
which is so small as to excite an 
apprehension of being swamped on 
entermg.* The colour of the water 



* Such an occurrence nearly took place 
on the day I visited this singular cave. By 
a little bad management, and a little too 
much swell, the boat did not enter on the 
first attempt, consequently the next wave 
dashed into the boat in which m.y excellent 
friend King, and his Finland chere amie, 
were comfortably borizontalized in the 
stern-sheets. The consternation of the 
two on receiving this briny bath can be 
more readily imagined than described. 
Seriously, whenever there is tlie least swell, 
avoid entering ; no dependence can be 
placed on the boatmen, who would risk 
your life, and even their own, for a few 
carlins. N.B. — A passport is not necessary 
to visit the island. 



KAPLES TO CASERTA AND CAPUA. — ROUTE 123. 



849 



which fills the cavern precisely re- 
sembles that of the large blue 
bottles with lamps behind them 
seen in chemists' windows ; and 
tliis water appears to act like the 
lens of a telescope, by conducting 
the rays of the sun and the reflec- 
tion of the brilliant skies of Magna 
Grsecia into the cavern. After the 
eye has been for a few moments 
accustomed to a light so magical, 
the stupendous vault of this gigantic 
bath is discoverable, richly studded 
with stalactites, and assuming, in 
consequence of a strong reflection 
from that transparent blue water, 
exactly the same tint. The cavern 
contains broken steps leading to a 
subterraneous passage, the length 
of which is unknown ; it being im- 
possible to reach the end, owing to 
an impediment formed by earth 
and stones. Masonry seems to have 
been employed in the construction 
of these steps and passage, which 
probably communicated either with 
one of Tiberius's villas, or that of 
Julia, the niece of Augustus ; but 
the cavern, although it may have 
been used as a bathing-place, is 
evidently the work of nature. 

ROUTE 123. 

NAPLES TO CASERTA AND CAPUA. 

Eailroad trains six times a day ; 
the station to Caserta is a little 
beyond the Pompeii station. 

Istcl. 2ndcl. 
Fares to Caserta - - 45 gr. 36 gr. 
— Capua - - 60 „ 48 „ 

CASERTA. 

This town is indebted for its 
origin to King Charles III, who 
built there an immense palace, and 
other stupendous works, during 
which thousands of people were 
variously employed. The present 
city is to be distinguished from 
another of the same name lying on 
the Tiphatine mountains at three 
miles' distance from the new Ca- 



serta, and which is still an archi- 
episcopal seat. 

Strangers before leaving Naples 
should get permission to visit 

The Royal Palace and Gardens. — 
Charles HI, after having built the 
palace of Portici and that of Capo 
di Monte, became so delighted with 
the beautiful plain of Caserta, that 
he resolved to build another there. 
This plain is situated at thirteen 
miles' distance from Naples, eight 
from Aversa, and very near the 
great fortress of Capua, which, 
under all circumstances, offered 
him a secure asylum : it also 
abounded with game. These ad- 
vantages, combined with the salu- 
brity of the climate, induced the 
king to decide at once, and he ac- 
cordingly sent to Rome, in the 
year 1752, for the celebrated archi- 
tect, Louis Vanvitelli, who con- 
structed this palace, which is de- 
cidedly the most magnificent and 
most regular edifice in Italy. 

This building is of a rectangular 
form, 803 feet in length, and 623 in 
breadth. Each of the principal 
fronts has three grand entrances. 
The middle one is ornamented with 
four columns of marble, about 
twenty-two feet high, besides the 
base ; an equal number of columns 
ornament the upper windows, and 
two more stand at the two side- 
doors, and each of i^ four fronts is 
divided into two lop ^stories, and 
three less considSra^, 2 The two 
principal fronts h?:-^ both thirty- 
six windows. At tLe four angles 
of the palace, there is over the cor- 
nice a kind- of square tower, orna- 
mented in front with two columns, 
two pilasters, and five windows. 
The centre of the edifice is also 
surmounted by an octagon cupola, 
which adds considerably to the 
effect. This palace has two sub- 
terranean stories, one intended for 
kitchens and stables, and the other 
underneath it for cellars. These 
subterranean apartments are very 



850 SOUTHERN ITALY. — ROUTE 123. CASERTA. ROYAL PALACE. 



deep, and are nevertheless as light 
as if they had windows. This pe- 
culiarity is owing to the skill of the 
architect, who has contrived so to 
dispose the double walls, as to ad- 
mit the light between them. 

The grand centre door opens into 
a majestic portico, supported by 
ninety-eight columns of Sicilian 
stone covered with valuable marble. 
This portico is 507 feet long, and ex- 
tends to the opposite or garden front, 
on the northern side. It has three 
octagonal vestibules, two of which 
are near the great doors, and the 
other is in the centre of the edifice : 
four sides of this octagon lead into 
four great courts, two more are 
comprised in the portico, another 
leads to a lofty and magnificent stair- 
case, and the last is occupied by the 
statue of Hercules crowned by 
Glory. Each of the side doors 
opens into one of the four great 
courts, which are 246 feet in length 
and 175 in breadth. The fronts of 
the building that overlook these 
courts are equal in magnificence 
to those of the exterior; they are 
formed of Caserta stone, and are 
disposed in so many covered arches, 
over which are the apartments. 

The staircase is divided into 
three branches; the first terminates 
where the two others commence, 
one of them is on the right hand, 
the other on the left ; the latter 
ascends to the vestibule of the 
chapel and the royal apartments. 
This staircase is of a noble style 
of architecture and is ornamented 
with beautiful marbles; it consists 
of a hundred steps, each formed of 
a single piece of marble, twenty-one 
feet in length; and the surrounding 
walls are all covered with beauti- 
fully-coloured marble. On the first 
step from the bottom of the stair- 
case are two weU- executed marble 
lions. The first landing-place com- 
mands a view «f three statues in 
their niches, representing Truth, 
Majesty, and Merit. 



The staircase is then divided into 
two branches, one of which leads 
into a superb vestibule in the form 
of an octagon, supported by twenty- 
four marble columns of the Co- 
rinthian order, with a ceiling orna- 
mented by beautiful paintings. The 
centre door, which is adorned with 
columns on each side, opens into the 
chapel and the others into the royal 
apartments. 

The chapel royal has an open 
13ortico on each side, with a base 
twenty-one feet high, from which 
rise sixteen columns of green Sici- 
lian marble, forming a support for 
the grand entablature on which the 
ceiling rests. The base of the por- 
tico presents eight openings and as 
many windows, corresponding in 
number with the columns. Amongst 
these columns are seen six statues 
of saints. The great altar is orna- 
mented with four beautiful pillars 
of yellow marble, and a picture 
representing the Conception of the 
Virgin. 

The vestibule of this chapel has 
four doors which open into the 
apartments of the king, queen, and 
royal family. The show apartments 
consist of a great number of rooms, 
disposed in admirable order, a few 
adorned with paintings, marbles, 
without furniture ; and though, from 
its situation it may be termed a 
country vUla, it must nevertheless 
be considered as a most magnificent 
royal palace. 

From one of the courts on the 
western side is a beautiful theatre, 
divided into several tiers of boxes, 
and ornamented with marbles and 
columns, and exceedingly splendid. 

On the northern side of the palace 
are some extensive gardens, delight- 
ful groves, disposed nearly in the 
same style as those of Portioi and 
Capo di Monte, a grotto, and nu- 
merous artificial cascades. The 
water with which the palace is 
abundantly supplied, as well as 
that flowing constantly from the 



NAPLES. — ^ROTITE 123. AQUEDUCT OF CASEETA. 



851 



cascade into the lake and fountains 
of these gardens, has been conveyed 
thither by means of the aqueduct 
of Caserta, of which we shall give a 
description hereafter; at the extre- 
mity of the principal walk are two 
beautiful groups of sculpture; that 
on the right represents Diana at the 
Bath; on the left, Actason trans- 
formed into a Stag. 

Return through the Giardino Jng- 
lese (English garden). 

Aqueduct of Caserta, — This aque- 
duct, which surpasses, or at least 
equals, the most beautiful works of 
the ancient Romans, and supplies 
Caserta with water, issuing from 
very distant sources, is undoubtedly 
one of the most wonderful under- 
takings of Charles HE. The terri- 
tory of Airola produces a great 
abundance of water, arising from 
nine springs which flow into the 
river Faenza, passing through the 
district of St Agatha of the Goths, 
and afterwards fall into the river 
Volturno. These streams uniting 
formed a considerable body of 
water, which the Chevalier Louis 
VanviteUi has succeeded in con- 
veying to Caserta by means of this 
conduit. 

This aqueduct is composed of 
very solid brickwork, covered over 
with a particular kind of stucco, 
which resists the ravages of the 
water. The distance from the 
source of these streams to Caserta, 
taken in a strait line, is about 
twelve miles ; but following the 
windings of the aqueduct, it is about 
twenty-seven. The great architect 
employed in this used every effort 
to conduct the waters through the 
places which approached nearest 
to a level with the source ; he was, 
nevertheless, imable to avoid the 
obstacles presented by two high 
mountains, between which lies the 
valley of Maddalone, surrounded on 
two sides by lofty heights, which 
would have forced the waters to 
descend in this place, and after- 



wards to reascend to a prodigious 
height ; but the experience of this 
skilful architect overcame all the 
difl8.culties. He cut through the 
two mountains at a place called 
Prato, to the extent of 1 , 1 00 fathoms ; 
at Ciesco, to the length of 950 
fathoms ; at Gargano, 570; and at 
La Rocca, 300; forming in all a 
length of 2,950 fathoms, according 
to the report and measurement of 
the master mason of the royal 
buildings. 

After having thus cut through 
the two mountains, it became ne- 
cessary to unite them ; this was 
done by means of a bridge, of which 
the architecture, as well as the 
height, astonishes every one who 
beholds it. This bridge is composed 
of three rows of arches, placed one 
over the other. The first row at 
the base of the two mountains con- 
sists of nineteen arches ; the second, 
of twenty-seven ; and the third, of 
forty-three. The pilasters of the 
first row of arches are more than 
thirty-five feet in thickness, and 
fifty-two in height. It may be 
easily imagined that immense sums 
must have been expended in the 
execution of this gigantic under- 
taking. The very short space of 
time in which it was accomplished 
is likewise a matter of astonish- 
ment ; the royal buildings being 
only commenced in 1752, and the 
aqueduct being entirely finished in 
1759. 

ISLA]S"DS OF PROCIDA AND ISCHIA. 

Those who wish in one journey 
to visit the Islands of Procida and 
Ischia should hire a boat in the 
harbour of Naples, whence sailing 
early in the morning, he will reach 
Procida in about two or three hours, 
the distance being only twelve miles. 
The same day he may see the island 
and proceed in the evening to Ischia, 
which is only two nules distant from 
Procida. There sleep, and make 
the following day the tour of the 



852 



SOUTHERN ITALY ROUTE 123. PROCIDA. 



island according to the itinerary we 
shall give in describing it. 

The traveller going to Procida 
and Ischia, may proceed by land as 
far as Miniscola, a sea shore inha- 
bited by fishermen, lying about 
four miles beyond Baia. At Minis- 
cola passage boats are found for 
Procida, a distance of three miles. 

PROCIDA. 

The landing place of this island is 
a quay extending the whole length 
of the town, called La Marina di 
Santa Maria Cattolica. This city, 
where nothing attracts the atten- 
tion of the traveller, is connected 
eastward with a borough called La 
Madonna delle Grazie, built upon a 
hill, which is crowned with a mag- 
nificent castle. This fort is now 
ungarrisoned and without guns ; it 
contains a royal palace, which tra- 
vellers are not accustomed to visit, 
as it is without furniture. A 
semajDhore may be seen on the top, 
which towards the east corresponds 
with that of Capri. From the ter- 
race where this telegraph is planted 
a stupendous prospect may be en- 
joyed, embracing both the gulfs of 
Gaeta and Naples ; but after con- 
templating those wide. spaces, full 
of historical remembrances as well 
as of natural curiosities, the eye of 
the observer is with no less delight 
attracted to the smooth and fertile 
appearance of the island lying 
beneath, and forming a most pic- 
turesque scene. This fine country 
contained once three large preserves 
of pheasants, reserved for the king's 
use, which were forbidden to be 
disturbed under heavy penalties. 
These establishments were de- 
stroyed during the revolution. 

There are no antiquities to be 
seen in this island. It is very inte- 
resting on account of its fertility, 
the industry of its inhabitants, and 
its maritime importance, though 
not distinguished in the history of 
ancient times. Historians have 



mentioned it as forming once a 
part of the neighbouring island of 
Ischia, from which tliey thought it 
had been separated by the violence 
of an earthquake. This opinion, 
however, was not general, even 
among the ancients, as Strabo says 
that Procida was detached from 
Capo Miseno ; but some modern 
naturalists, after analysing the 
respective soils of these different 
lands, have denied the possibility 
of any such separation. 

The first inhabitants of Procida 
were a colony of Chalcidians and 
Eritreans, the same people who for- 
merly occupied Ischia. 

Procida derived some celebrity 
from the Sicilian vespers, as it was 
the birthplace of John, tlie famous 
promoter of that insurrection. He 
was the feudal lord of the island, 
and in consequence of the vespers 
it was confiscated ; but in the year 
1339 he recovered his property, 
and obtained from the reigning 
King of Naples the faculty of sell- 
ing it. Thus it passed from his 
family to one called Cossa, and 
from the latter to others, till the 
feudal system being extinguished in 
the kingdom of Naples, the island 
was entirely subjected to the crown. 

The territory of Procida is mostly 
composed of ashes and fragments of 
lava, which seems indeed to justify 
the opinion that it was in former 
times a portion of Ischia. Its cir- 
cumference is seven miles, and sup- 
posing the traveller would make 
the tour of it, starting from Santa 
Maria Cattolica, and proceeding- 
westward, he will successively meet 
with the villages of Pmita di Cio- 
peto, Cottamo, Ciracci, or Campo 
Inglese (here was a royal preserve), 
Chiajolella, Punta di Socciaro, Pe- 
riUo (on the territory of which 
another royal preserve existed), 
Centano, Bosco or Boschetto (where 
the king had a hird park), Ulmo. 
Coricella, and La Madonna deUe 
Grazie. 



NAPLES. — ROUTE 123. ISCHIA. 



853 



So many villages in so small a 
country give by themselves an idea 
of its being uncommonly weR inha- 
bited. We remember, in fact, to 
have read somewhere that, in pro- 
portion to its surface, Procida was 
the most populous land on the 
globe ; it contains about 14,000 
souls ; it had formerly 18,000. 

The island presents in its circum- 
ference several sandy creeks, one of 
which is that of Chiajolella, where 
ships are frequently built ; but the 
harbour or bay most frequented 
lies opposite Santa Maria Cattolica, 
in the channel between Procida and 
the mainland. The Procidans pos- 
sess about a hundred large brigs, 
a-nd are generally esteemed as good 
sailors. The land is extremely fer- 
tile ; it produces chiefly wine, and 
fruits grow there ripe at an earlier 
period than in the neighbouring 
country ; hence they are sent to 
Naples, where they sell uncom- 
monly weU. A small quantity of 
silk is fabricated in this place, and 
a tunny fishery is maintained near 
its shore, between the pier and La 
Punta di Ciopeto. This fishery fur- 
nishes the inhabitants of the coast 
with a lucrative employment from 
Ma,y to September. 

The traveller, either after making 
the tour of the island, or starting 
from the town to go directly to 
Ischia, must proceed to Chiajolella 
to embark. The road, a mile long, 
is quite even and pretty well inha- 
bited. Chiajolella lies on the oppo- 
site point, of the island, and boats 
are easily found there for the pas- 
sage to Ischia. The distance be- 
tween the two islands is about two 
miles. An uninhabited islet is seen 
near Chiajolella ; it is called Bivaro, 
or Vivaro ; it contains a royal pre- 
serve of rabbits, and is protected by 
a little fort. 

ISCHIA. 

This island is about eighteen 
miles in circumference, about five 



in length from east to west, and 
three in breadth from north to 
south. Low towards the sea, ex- 
cept on the eastern side, it gradu- 
ally rises towards the centre, where 
it forms a very lofty mountain. The 
sharp and white summit of the lat- 
ter is seen even at a great distance, 
and seems inaccessible, but in fact 
it is not so. The traveller may go 
to the top, from whence he will 
enjoy the amplest, and, in point of 
historical remembrances, the most 
interesting prospect in the whole 
globe. This mountain is known 
under the names of Epomeo and St 
Nicholas : the former was its an- 
cient name, and is even now used 
by intelligent persons ; the latter 
is that by which it is commonly 
called ; and the appellation of St 
Nicholas has been given to the hill 
from a small church being erected 
on its top, which was dedicated to 
this saint. As to the island, it has 
been variously named, viz., ^naria, 
Arimi, Liarimi, Pithecusa, Pithe- 
cusffi, and finally Iscla, from which 
its present name is derived. 

The first inhabitants of Ischia 
were a mixture of Eretrian and 
Chalcidian. The latter afterwards 
possessed themselves with Cuma?, 
and set there. The Eretrian also, 
though at a later period, were 
obliged to leave the island on ac- 
count of one or more volcanic erup- 
tions, the traces of which are still 
apparent. A colony of Syracusans 
occupied Ischia 470 years before 
the Christian era ; they were like-, 
wise repulsed by the tremendous 
action of the volcanoes ; but the 
fear of new eruptions subsiding, the 
island was occupied again by the 
Neapolitans ; and it seems that this 
new colony grew there both pros- 
perous and quiet, till they were 
chased by the Romans. The latter 
possessed Isc?iia to the time of Au- 
gustus, when he restored it to the 
Neapolitans as an equivalent for 
Capri. Under the Greek emperors 



854 



SOUTHERN ITALY.— ROUTE 123. ISCHIA. 



Ischia followed the fate of the duchy 
of Naples, and in September of the 
year 813 it was suddenly attacked 
and pillaged during three days by 
the Saracens. Another sack fell 
upon Ischia in 1 135 from the Pisans, 
who were then at war against King 
Roger. 

During the wars between the 
Anj ovine and Arragonese kings, 
the inhabitants of Ischia, who at 
first found themselves under the 
government of Charles I, revolted, 
like the Sicilians, and became sub- 
ject to King Peter, and then to 
Frederick II, the Arragonese mo- 
narch ; but, in the year 1299, 
Charles 11, the successor of 
Charles I, retook this island, and 
to punish the rebels he sent thither 
400 soldiers, who laid it waste, 
imrooting even the trees. This 
great calamity was, two years after, 
followed by another, even more 
terrible : the volcano of the island, 
after keeping, during two months, 
the whole island in a continual 
alarm, burst out at length with 
a tremendous eruption. The part 
of the island which was washed out 
by the lava lies on the western 
side, a short distance from the 
town. It was a most fertile country. 
The lava covered it, and has never 
more left this space of land, upon 
which it may still be seen as black 
as on its original cooling. Many 
inhabitants perished in consequence 
of this catastrophe ; the rest flew 
to the neighbouring places, nor 
could they repair to Ischia till the 
year 1305. In the year 1423 this 
island was given by Queen Jane 11 
to Alphonso I of Arragon. This 
prince, expelling his former inha- 
bitants, introduced there a colony 
of his Cataline soldiers. Ischia was 
the asylum of Ferdinand II in the 
year 1495, when the French, led by 
Charles VIII, entered the kingdom 
of Naples. A new invasion of the 
French obliged afterwards Don 
Frederick, the imcle of Ferdinand, 



to take likewise refuge in this 
island, which on that occasion was 
admirably defended against the 
French by a lady called Costanza 
de Avalos. Owing to her glorious 
defence, the descendants of this 
lady possessed for a long time the 
island, with an almost absolute 
authority. 

In 1544 or 1545, Ischia was the 
unfortunate object of an invasion 
from the famous corsair Barbarossa, 
who, landing there, took and brought 
away about 4,000 inhabitants. From 
this period nothing appears in the 
history of this island worthy to be 
remembered. "We shall only add, 
that in the year 1815 Joachim Mu- 
rat, on leaving Naples, repaired and 
embarked there, directing his course 
to the shores of France. 

On approaching the island, the 
traveller will see an elevated rock 
connected with the shore by the 
means of a flat bridge. It is called 
Negrone, and contains both fortifi- 
cations and buildings ; the former 
constitute the castle of Ischia, 
which is furnished with guns and 
garrisoned ; the latter formed once 
the town or capital city of the 
island. It seems that in those times 
the inhabitants had chosen that 
impregnable summit for their 
abode, to avoid unforeseen attacks, 
especially during the maritime in- 
cursions of the Saracens. 

It seems even that whenever the 
island was threatened with an hos- 
tile invasion, all such people as 
lived in the country hastened to fly 
to the rock; to warn them in time 
of the danger a bell was established 
on the point of the land nearest to 
the rock. This place preserves still 
the name of Porta del Martello (the 
gate of the ' alarm bell). A state 
prison is upon the rock. 

The transition of the inhabitants 
from the ancient city to the present 
one has been eflected in our days. 
The latter is called Celso, and con- 
tains about 4,000 people. 



TABLE OF EXPENSES OF A TOUR THROuGH ITALY, 
Occupying from about Ten to Twelve Weeks. 



Francs. Cents. 
Geneva to Baveno, by dili- 
gence • - - - 50 

First day. 
At Lausanne : — Dinner, 3 frs. ; 
tea, 1 fr. 50 c. - - - 4 50 

Second day. 

Meurice : — Breakfast - - 1 50 

Sion : — Dinner - - - 3 

Brigg r^^Supper - - -30 

TTiird day. 
Simplou: — Dinner - -30 
Domo d'Ossolo: — Supper, 3 

frs.; bed, 2frs. - - -50 
Fare from Domo to Baveno - 7 

Fourth day. 

Baveno: — Breakfast - - 1 50 

One-fourth expense to visit 
the Borromean Islands, and 
bouno mano to gardeners - 2 

Dinner, 3 frs. ; bed, 2 frs. ; 

breakfast, 1 fr. 50 c. - - 6 50 

One-fourth the expense of an 
excursion from Lago Mag- 
giore to Lago Como would 
be 12 frs. 

Fifih day. 

Steamer to Sesto Calende -30 

Sesto Calende, dinner - -30 

Diligence to Milan - - 6 50 

Sixth to the Ninth day. 
Milan: — Three beds, 6 frs.; 
three breakfasts, 4 frs. 50 c. ; 
three dinners, 12 frs. ; three 
teas, 4 frs, 50 c. ; servants 
of the hotel, 3 frs. - - 30 



5 



- 36 

- 3 







Passport . - - 

Tenth day, 

Malle-poste to Genoa - 
Dinner, en route - 

Eleventh day. 
Genoa:— Porterage to hotel, 
1 fr. ; breakfast, 1 fr. 50 c.; 
dinner at table-d'hote, 3 
frs. ; tea, 1 f r. 50 c, ; bed, 2 frs. 9 

Twelfth day. 

Genoa : —Breakfast, 1 fr. 50 c. ; 
dinner, 3 frs. ; tea, 1 fr. 50 c. ; 
bed, 2 frs. ; servants, 2 frs. 10 

Thirteenth day. 

Genoa : — Breakfast, 1 fr. 50 c. ; 

dinner, 3 frs. - - - 4 50 

Signing passport for Leghorn 12 50 

Fare by steamer to Leghorn - 45 

Porterage and boatage - 2 

Fourteenth day. 
Leghorn : — Boatage, 1 fr. ; 

porterage to hotel, 1 fr. - 2 
Dinner - - - - 4 

Excursion to Pisa, and return 

by railway, 10 frs. 
Excursion to Pisa, Lucca, and 

baths of Lucca, six days, 

would be 100 frs. 
Fare by steamer to Naples - 100 

Francs 372 50 



Pauls. 

Leghorn : — Passport signing - 12 

Boatage- - - - - 2 



EXPENSES OP A TOUR THROUGH ITALY. 



Fifteenth day. 
Civita Veccliia: — Landing and 
returning - - _ _ 3 

Pauls 17 
Sixteenth day. 

Carlins. 

Naples : — Landing, 2 carlins ; 
dogana, 1 carlin; hackney 
carriage, 2 carlins - - - 5 

Six dinners at 12 carlins, 72 ; six 
teas, 4 carlins, 24 ; bed, 6 car- 
lins, 36 - - - - - 132 

Servants, six days - - - 36 

Excursions to Pompeii, Vesu- 
vius, Caserta, Pozzuoli, &c., 
six days, at 48 carlins per day 288 

Twenty-ninth day. 

Signing passport for Rome:— 14 
Steamer to Civita Vecchia - 132 

Hackney carriage to boat, 3 car- 
lins ; boat, 3 carlins - - 6 

49 piasters, 11 carlins. 613 

Thirtieth day. Pauls. 

Civita Vecchia: — Expenses for 
landing, &c. - - - _ 5 
Diligence to Rome - - - 20 
Passport signing - . - g 
Expenses on the road - - 4 

Thirty-first to Forty-third day. 
Rome : — Twelve dinners with 

wine, at 6 pauls - - - 72 

Twelve teas, at 3 pauls - - 36 

Twelve beds, at 5 pauls - - 60 

Twelve breakfasts at 4 pauls - 48 

Signing passport - - - 11 

Forty-third to Forty-eighth day. 
One -fourth of a carriage from 
Rome to Florence, five days - 110 
Making altogether 

597 francs, equal to about 
570 pauls „ 

50 piasters „ 



Furty-eighth to Fifty-fourth day. 

Florence :— Six breakfasts, 3 pis. 18 

Six dinners, 5 pauls - - 30 

Six teas, 3 pauls - - - 18 

_ Six beds, 5 pauls - - - 30 

Signing passports for Venice - 5 

One-fourth of a carriage from 

Florence to Padua - - - 90 

Pauls 570 

Fifty-fourth to Fifty-ninth day. 
Including one day at Bologna. 

Sixtieth day. 

Francs. Cents. 

Padua :— Bed, 2 frs. ; break- 
fast, 1 fr. 50 c. - - - 3 50 

Railroad to Mestre, and boat 
to Venice - - - - 5 

Venice :— Dinner, table d'hote 3 

Sixty-first to Sixty-fourth day. 

Venice: — Four days' break- 
fasts - - - - _ 6 
Four dinners - - - 12 
Four teas - - - - 6 
Four beds - - "80 

Four days' gondolas - - 10 

Sixty-fifth day. 

Diligence from Venice to Mi- 
Ian - - - - - 50 
Expenses on the road - - 6 

Sixty-sixth to Sixty-ninth day. 
Milan to Basle, by St Gothard 85 
Three days' expenses - - 30 



Francs 224 50 



£. •. 

"23 17 

12 12 

11 5 



£47 14 6 



The above^ expenses do not include fees to valets-de-place, theatres, 
TSn^l' <^^^"^ges in towns, fees to custodes, &c. &c., which may bo calculated 
at 250 frs. more ; and adding lOZ. each way from England to Switzerland, will 
make the expense 70/., or the entire trip through Belgium up the Rhine, 
Switzerland, It^ly, returning through France, stopping fourteen days in 
Pans, liberally for 100/., or upon the screiv for about 80/. 



^ mioxn to Jnbalttrs 

ON 

TRAVELLING EXEKOISE, AND CLIMATE, 

By THOMAS SMITH, M.D., 

OF TRINITY COLLEGE, CAMBRIDGE. 



Exercise and Climate. — As tra- 
velliog and a temporary sojourn in 
the more genial climates of Italy 
and the south of France are very 
frequently resorted to by invalids 
and persons of delicate constitution, 
it will not be unadvisable to make a 
few remarks on the influence of tra- 
velling exercise, change of air, and 
change of scene, in removing many 
physical ailments, in getting rid of 
that morbid nervous irritability, which 
so frequently embitters the lives of 
those who have less of the real cares 
of this world to encounter, and in 
restoring to both body and mind that 
healthy tone and vigour, so necessary 
to health, and without which, neither 
the functions of the body or the 
mind can be properly carried on. 

'' It is well known," says Dr. 
James Johnson, "that one impres- 
sion, whether mental or corporeal, 
will often supersede, or at least, 
weaken another. This principle is 
sometimes available in the cure 
of dyspepsia and hypochondriasis, 
especially when resulting from 
moral causes." This impression 
would, of course, be best effected by 
a change of pursuits; but, unfor- 
tunately ,too many invalids are unable, 
from circumstances, to engage in 
any new pursuit. It is, however, 
in the power of most people to adopt 
a systematic and regular plan of 
corporeal exercise, which, combined 
vrith spare diet, will cure an immense 
number of dyspeptic cases among 
the middle and lower classes of 
society. The listlessness nnd languor 
attendant on the disorders present 

(EUROPEAN TOURIST). 



almost insuperable obstacles to this 
plan of treatment, at first, but, if 
encouraged by the persuasions of 
their medical attendants to persevere, 
the amount of good that may be ac- 
complished is extraordinary. *' I 
have known people," says Dr. John- 
son, " who could not go up a flight 
of steps without palpitation and 
breathlessness, acquire in one month 
the power of running up to the top 
of the house, with scarcely any ac- 
celeration of the pulse or respira- 
tion." 

In the higher and more opulent 
classes of society, " whose morale 
has been too far spoiled — whose 
education has been too refined — and 
whose -senses have been too much 
pampered," some more powerful in- 
ducement to corporeal exertion, to- 
gether with a due amount of healthy 
moral excitement, are necessary to 
produce a beneficial result. By far 
the best combination of moral and 
physical means for this purpose is 
TRAVELLING in the open air. 

The moral effects of travelling are 
eminently conducive to the restora- 
tion of health. The intimate con- 
nexion that exists between mind and 
body is such, that the one cannot be af- 
fected without the other sympathizing 
with it. The influence of bad health, 
especially a disordered condition of 
the digestive organs, leads to what is 
termed depression of spirits ; which 
is far worse to bear than bodily pain, 
and leads to still greater disturbance 
of many important functions of the 
body. No remedy for the removal 
of this morbid condition of the mind 



860 



A WORD TO INVALIDS 



is half so efficacious as travelling. 
The release from all the cares and 
anxieties of business or political life, 
— the constant succession of new 
and interesting objects, which power- 
fully arrest the attention and absorb 
the feelings, — the daily intercourse 
with strangers on the road, and at 
the table d'hote^ strike deeply at the 
root of the e-vil, by removing the 
causes on which this sombre and 
irritable state of mind depends. So 
firmly convinced is Dr. Johnson of 
the efficacy of travelling, even in the 
most inveterate cases of hypochon- 
driacism,from the result of some few 
cases which have come under his 
notice, that he has declared his belief 
" that many cases of this kind, which 
ultimately end in insanity, or at 
least in monomania, might be greatly 
ameliorated, if not completely cured, 
by a system of exercise conducted 
on the foregoing plan, and urged 
into operation by powerful persuasion, 
or even, by force, if necessary. In 
the greater number of nervous and 
hypochondriacal cases, the attention 
of the patient is kept so firmy fixed 
on his own morbid feelings, as to re- 
quire strong and unusual impressions 
to divert it from that point. The 
monotony of domestic scenes and 
circumstances is quite inadequate to 
this object ; and arguments not only 
fail, but absolutely increase the ma- 
lady, by exciting irritation in the 
mind of the sufi"erer, who thinks his 
counsellors are either unfeeling or 
incredulous towards his complaints. 
In such cases, the majestic scenery 
of Switzerland, the romantic and 
beautiful views in Italy and the 
Rhingau, or the keen mountain air 
of the Highlands of Scotland and 
Wales, combined with the novelty, 
variety, and succession of manners 
and customs of the countries through 
which he passes, abstract the atten- 
tion of the dyspeptic and hypochon- 
driacal traveller (if anything can) 
from the hourly habit of dwelling on, 
if not exaggerating his own real or 



imaginary sensations, and thus help 
to break the chain of morbid asso- 
ciations by which he is bound to the 
never-ending detail of his own suffer- 
ings. It is hardly necessary to 
observe that beneficial effects to a 
greater or less extent, will be ex- 
perienced in other sombre and triste 
conditions of the soul, resulting from 
moral causes, as sorrow, grief, disap- 
pointment, crosses in love, &c., by a 
tour conducted in such a manner as 
strongly to exercise the body, and 
cheerfully excite the mind." 

Physical Effects. — The beneficial 
effects of travelling on our corporeal 
feelings is first perceptible in the 
diminished morbid sensibility of the 
nervous system. The gorgeous bril- 
liancy of an Italian sky only creates 
pleasurable feelings in persons whose 
eyes would at one time have been 
annoyed by so strong a light ; sounds 
are heard without shrinking, that 
previously would have produced the 
greatest agitation ; and the skin 
becomes comparatively insensible to 
the injurious effects which extreme 
vicissitudes of temperature and other 
atmospheric changes are so apt to 
produce on persons of a morbidly 
irritable temperament under ordinary 
circumstances. In proof of this, 
Dr. Johnson mentions one or two 
rather interesting examples. ^' In 
the month of August, 1823," he says, 
" the heat was excessive at Geneva, 
and all the way along the defiles of the 
mountains, till we got to Chamouni, 
where we were, at once, among ice 
and snow, with a fall of 40 or more 
degrees of the thermometer, expe- 
rienced in the couse of a few hours, 
between mid-day at Salenche, and 
evening at the foot of the Glaciers 
in Chamouni. There were upwards 
of fifty travellers here, many of whom 
were females and invalids ; yet none 
suffered inconvenience from this rapid 
atmospheric transition. This was 
still more remarkable in the journey 
from Marti gny to the Great St. 
Bernard. On our way up, through 



ON TRAVELLING EXERCISE, AND CLIMATE. 



861 



the deep valleys, we had the ther- 
mometer at 92 degrees of reflected 
heat for three hours. I never felt it 
much hotter in the East Indies. At 
nine o'clock that night, vrhile wan- 
dering about the Hospice of the St. 
Bernard, the thermometer fell to six 
degrees below the freezing point, and 
we were half frozen in the cheerless 
apartments of the monastery. There 
were upwards of forty travellers here, 
many of them in very delicate health ; 
and yet not a single cold was caught, 
nor any diminution of the usual 
symptoms of a good appetite for 
breakfast the next morning," 

Travelling exercise likewise affords 
a singular immunity from the inju- 
rious effects of sudden hygrometrical 
and barometrical changes of the at- 
mosphere. Everybody knows that 
even strong healthy persons, but 
especially those of delicate health, 
are very apt to suffer severely from 
exposure to wet ; many also become 
so morbidly sensitive of even the 
slightest atmospheric changes, that 
they may be regarded as walking 
barometers. Now travelling acts 
very beneficially in getting rid of 
this morbid susceptibility, and per- 
sons are enabled to bear exposure to 
every kind of weather without injury 
to health. This is especially ob- 
servable in Switzerland, where per- 
sons, who would tremble at the con- 
sequences of being caught in a 
shower of rain in London, in ascend- 
ing the mountains are frequently 
overtaken by storms which drench 
them to the skin ; and yet they suffer 
no ill effects, although their clothes 
may have been allowed to dry upon 
their backs. This is brought about 
by more regular and free exposure to 
all atmospheric changes and im- 
pressions than before, and that under 
a condition of body, from exercise, 
which renders these impressions 
quite harmless. 

But perhaps the most important 
effect of travelling is that exhibited 
on the digestive organs. Not only is 



the appetite improved, but the powers 
of digestion and assimilation are in- 
creased to a very extradinary degree ; 
thus enabling persons to eat and 
drink things while travelling, which 
would make them very ill in ordinary 
life. The beneficial effects of tra- 
velling, on the digestive organs, 
satisfactorily account for various 
other improvements in the general 
health. Dyspepsia, with its thousand 
attendant horrors, vanish before a 
steady perseverance in travelling 
exercise ; and new life is imparted to 
the body, new vigour to the mind. 
So convinced is Dr. Johnson of this 
fact, that he has declared his positive 
conviction — "that the most invete- 
rate dyspepsia (where no organic 
disease has taken place), would be 
greatly alleviated, if not completely 
removed, with all its multiform 
sympathetic torments, by a journey 
of two thousand miles through Swit- 
zerland, Germany, or England, con- 
ducted on the principle of combining 
active with passive exercise in the 
open air, in such proportions as would 
suit the individual constitution and 
the previous habits of life." True 
it is, that there are many men who 
saunter away their time and money 
at watering places in this country, 
during the summer and autumn, 
without any sensible improvement of 
their health, when a three months' 
course of constant exercise in the 
open air would cure them of all their 
maladies. " The fact is," as Dr. 
Johnson very truly remarks, "the 
power of this remedy is little known, 
and the manner in which it is applied 
by many invalids is not calculated to 
show its worth." 

One or two other- effects of tra- 
velling on the system remain to be 
noticed. The first is an increased 
activity in the absorbent system. 
The fluids from the interior of the 
body are taken up, with greater 
rapidity, by the absorbent vessels, and 
exhaled by the skin in the form of 
perspiration. This is one cause cf 



£62 



A WORD TO INVALIDS 



the constipation which is so common 
to travellers. By this increased ac- 
tivity of the absorbent system, per- 
sons of soft flabby texture of body, 
become thinner, but firmer and 
stronger. By the absorption of the 
fat and fluids, they lose in weight, 
and, by improved digestion, they 
gain in strength. In cases where 
there is a tendency to dropsy, espe- 
cially in the extremities, a month's 
travelling will frequently get rid of 
the swelling altogether. Travelling 
has a marked effect on the pulse. 
" Active exercise unquestionably 
quickens the pulse — while passive 
exercise in a carriage renders it 
slower." Some discrimination, there- 
fore, on the part of invalids about 
to travel, is necessary as to the kind of 
exercise to be adopted. Travelling 
exercise, whether active or passive, 
tends to equalise the distribution of 
the blood throughout the body ; 
hence it is a valuable corrective re- 
medy in cases where there is an undue 
determination of blood to any parti- 
cular organ or part of the body — as 
the head, chest, or liver. But where 
there is any disease of the heart, 
with increase of force in the circu- 
tion, passive exercise in a carriage is 
the only form in which travelling can 
be of service. The only other efleet 
to be noticed, is the efPect which 
constant change of air exerts on the 
blood itself. Dr. Johnson is of 
opinion that a mere change of air has 
an exhilarating or salutary effect on 
the animal economy. The ruddy 
complexion of travellers, and of those 
who are constantly moving from 
place to place, as stage coachmen, for 
example, does not, he thinks, depend 
solely on the mere action of the open 
air on the face, but also on the in- 
fluence which change of air exerts 
on the blood itself in the lungs. 
And although we have no means of 
determining, satisfactorily, in what 
essential particular the sir of one 
district or country differs from 
another, yet the experience of almost 



every one will tell him that, by re- 
moving to a distance of only a few 
miles, he will experience an exhi- 
larating influence on the animal 
economy, which, in part at least, 
can only be referable to the stimu- 
lating influence of the air on the 
blood itself. This, however, belongs 
more properly to the next branch 
of the subject, namely, 

THE SANATIVE INFLUENCE OF 
CLIMATE ON DISEASE. 

Hitherto we have only taken into 
our consideration the influence of 
travelling, merely as an exercise, on 
the animal economy, morally and 
physically. But there are many 
forms of disease where a residencCy 
of variable duration, in a climate 
different to that in which the invalid 
has previously resided, may be de- 
sirable as a means of cure, or at 
least of palliation. From a very 
early period it has been admitted as 
an established truth, among physi- 
cians, — that change of climate and 
change of air are, when judiciously 
employed, remedial agents of great 
power and efficacy. Both reason 
and experience lead us to this 
result. It is reasonable to infer, for 
example, that a change from the 
densely populated town to the open 
country, from a bleak exposed situa- 
tion to one that is more sheltered and 
warmer, from a damp and confined 
district to a dry and open one, would 
of necessity be beneficial in cases of 
illness contracted under such circum- 
stances ; and daily experience proves 
this to be the case. Many forms of 
disease, such as ague, catarrhal 
affections, hooping cough, asthma, 
<fec., have been found to yield to 
change of situation after the usual 
remedial measures had failed ; or at 
all events, after a change of situation 
they were found to yield readily to 
remedies which had previously failed. 
This effect is produced in a still more 
marked degree where persons remove 
from one country to another, haA'ing 



ON TRAVELLING EXERCISE, AND CLIMATE. 



863 



a totally different climate ; espe- 
cially if all the circumstances in 
connection with this change of cli- 
mate be duly attended to. 

Climate, however, like all remedial 
measures, is neither universal in its 
application, nor likely to produce 
beneficial results, unless judiciously 
employed. Hence it has often been 
resorted to as a last resource in cases 
that are utterly hopeless ; and not un- 
frequently has it been misapplied in 
eases, where it might otherwise have 
rendered essential service. It is not 
matter of surprise, therefore, that 
the success of this practice has been 
somewhat limited, and, as a matter 
of course, that the practice itself 
should have incurred unmerited op- 
probrium. This, however, is not the 
fault of the remedy, but of its mode 
of application. 

Our neighbours of the continent 
have hitherto been somewhat in 
advance of us in their appreciation 
of the benefits accruing from change 
of climate ; but the English, and 
especially Londoners, have of late 
years become duly sensible of its good 
effects ; the result is that London, 
at particular periods of the year, is 
comparatively deserted. And really 
there is no other remedy for that 
peculiar state of health which is en- 
gendered by a protracted residence 
in the close vitiated atmosphere of a 
crowded city, and which Sir J. Clarke 
has very happily designated Cachexia 
Londinensis ; a disease " which 
preys upon the vitals, and stamps its 
hues upon the countenance of almost 
every permanent resident in this 
great city." 

"But to be beneficial (says Sir 
James Clarke), the remedy, simple 
as it appears, must be directed with 
judgment and discrimination. For 
that numerous class of persons suffer- 
ing merely from a residence in the 
city, without any decided disease, 
the mere change to the country may 
be all that is requisite to restore 
their health ; it is therefore of less 



consequence to what part they go. 
But the case is very different with 
the invalid, whose sufferings are 
chiefly referable to some particular 
disease. To him the selection of his 
temporary residence is not a matter 
of indifference. An elevated situa- 
tion, and a dry, bracing air, are 
proper in one case ; a sheltered resi- 
dence with a milder air will be 
suitable to another ; the sea side may 
be the situation indicated for a third, 
whilst a judicious succession of 
changes will often be preferable to a 
residence in the best chosen situation. 
In like manner it is with the more 
important measure of change of cli- 
mate. The valetudinarian, whose 
health is deteriorated by severe study, 
or too close attention to business, and 
to whom relaxation of mind is as 
requisite as change of climate, may 
generally be permitted to choose the 
situation most agreeable to himself. 
But the great difference which exists 
in the physical characters of the 
climate of the places frequented by 
invalids in the south of Europe, and 
even in the southern parts of our own 
island, renders the selection of a 
winter residence a matter of vital 
importance to the invalid suffering 
under formal disease.'^ 

" This subject has not hitherto re- 
ceived the attention which it merits. 
The neglect of it, I believe, has arisen 
in a great measure from the opinion 
which has generally prevailed in this 
country, that the beneficial effects of 
climate are evinced in consumptive 
cases chiefly. Such an opinion could 
have originated only in a very limited 
acquaintance with the influence of 
climate on disease. In dyspepsia, 
and disorders of the digestive organs 
generally, with the nervous affections 
and distressing mental feelings which 
so often accompany them ; in asthma, 
in bronchial affections, in scrofula, 
and in chronic rheumatism, the bene- 
ficial effects of climate are far more 
strongly evinced than they are in 
consumption. In delicacy of con- 



864 



A WORD TO INVALIDS 



stitution and derangement of the 
system, more especially in childhood 
and youth, and which cannot be 
strictly classed under any formal 
disease ; and also in that disordered 
state of health which occurs at a 
more advanced period of life, in 
which the powers of the constitution, 
both mental and bodily, fail, and the 
system lapses into a state of prema- 
ture decay, climate is a valuable 
remedial agent." 

No greater error, however, can ex- 
ist, than to suppose that either travel- 
ling or change of climate is sufficient, 
by itself, to restore them to health. 
Instead of a blessing, it may, and 
not unfrequently does prove a positive 
bane to the invalid, by leading him, 
in the fulness of his confidence in 
change of climate, to neglect other 
circumstances as essential to his 
recovery as that on which all his 
hopes are fixed. 

" A residence in a mild climate 
will, no doubt, often do much. 
Among other advantages, for ex- 
ample, it will enable the invalid to 
be much in the open air d«ring a 
part of the year when, were he in 
this country, he would be either con- 
fined to the house, or exposed to an 
atmosphere more likely to increase 
than mitigate his complaints. The 
exercise enjoyed in a temperate at- 
mosphere, while it gives tone to the 
nervous system, improves the general 
health, and relieves the affected 
organs, by promoting a more equable 
circulation in the surface and the 
extremities ; and the constitution, 
thus invigorated, may be enabled to 
overcome a disease under which it 
would have sunk in less favourable 
circumstances. But if he would 
reap the full measure of good his 
new position places within his reach, 
he must tru-^t more to himself and 
his own conduct, than to the simple 
influence of any climate, however 
genial ; he must adhere strictly to 
such a mode of living as his disorder 
requires ; he must avail himself of all 



the advantages which the climate 
affords, and eschew those evils from 
which no climate or situation is 
exempt ; moreover, he must exercise 
both resolution and patience in pro- 
secuting all this to a successful 
issue." 

DIRECTIONS FOR INVALIDS. 

Seeing then that climate is a 
valuable remedy, when properly ap- 
plied, it becomes necessary in the 
next place to indicate the concomitant 
circumstances necessary to insure 
the attainment of those beneficial 
results which climate is capable of 
eflPecting. Patients, in fact, ought 
to bear constantly in mind, that the 
beneficial influence of travelling, 
of sailing, and of climate, requires 
to be aided by such a dietetic regimen 
and general mode of living, and by 
such remedial measures as would 
have been requisite in his case had 
he remained in his own country. 
"The more common and more in- 
jurious deviations from that system 
of living which an invalid ought to 
adopt, consist in errors of diet ; ex- 
posure to cold ; over fatigue and 
excitement in what is called ' sight 
seeing,' frequenting crowded and 
over heated rooms, keeping late 
hours, &c." 

Before an mvalid sets out upon his 
journey, preparatory measures ought 
to be adopted for the purpose of 
placing the system in a proper con- 
dition to endure the fatigue and ex- 
citement of a journey. For travelling 
in itself is a source of excitement, 
even to the most healthy ; but that 
heated state^ as it is called, which, 
in health, is easily soothed by a few 
days' rest, and perhaps a little cooling 
medicine, is often very pi*ejudicial 
to invalids, who are suffering, or are 
liable to, any inflammatory affection. 
The invalid's general health should 
be carefully examined ; and if any 
undue excitement of the system be 
present, every effort should be made 



ON TRAVELLING EXERCISE, AND CLIMATE. 



865 



to subdue it, by a careful regulation 
of the diet, by rest, tepid bathiug, 
and in some cases even blood-letting 
may be advisable. 

The system having undergone this 
previous training, it is desirable to 
endeavour to keep it in a tolerable 
healthy state by the moderate use of 
a light diet, taking care not to load 
the stomach even with the mildest 
food ; by a careful abstinence from 
all wines and spirits ; and by keeping 
up a healthy action of the bowels, — 
a precaution the more necessary, 
because travelling exercise has a 
natural tendency to constipate the 
bowels. This object is best accom- 
plished by the use of mild laxatives, 
such as manna, castor oil, lenitive 
electuary (confection of senna), or 
lavemens. Sometimes more active 
medicines are necessary; in which 
case it is desirable to select those 
that are least likely to irritate, such 
as the watery extract of aloes, made 
into a pill w^ith extract of henbane. 
Especial care should be taken against 
the too frequent use of lavemens^ 
particularly if they are used warm, 
for they tend to relax the muscu- 
lar texture of the bowels, and 
the constipation, which the patient 
wishes to remove, may actually 
be increased by the very remedy em- 
ployed for its removal. Warm or 
tepid bathing also should be resorted 
to, when it can be conveniently pro- 
cured, and when there are no objec- 
tions to it from the nature of the 
patient's malady. Judiciously em- 
ployed, nothing is more beneficial 
and refreshing than the bath in tra- 
velling. The temperature should be 
from 94 deg. to 97 deg. of Fahren- 
heit's thermometer, and the best 
time for its use is shortly before 
dinner. 

By attending to these matters, and 
only travelling by easy stages ; 
resting from time to time, according 
to the extent of the fatigue produced, 
the invalid will find his health im- 
prove as he proceeds, instead of 



having to endure the injurious effects 
frequently \ produced by travelling. 
But if he neglect these precautions 
as to regimen and conduct, which is 
too frequently the case in a long 
journey, great general disturbance of 
the system is produced, the injurious 
effects of which frequently last 
through the greater part of the 
winter, thus depriving him of the 
advantages which he might have 
obtained from his winter residence. 

When the invalid arrives at his 
destination, certain precautions will 
still be necessary ; as it rarely hap- 
pens, even under the best manage- 
ment, that a long journey can be 
performed without some degree of 
derangement of the system being the 
result. The first thing to be done is 
to procure dry, well ventilated apart- 
ments; and this cannot be done in 
any part of the continent without the 
use of fires. The next thing to be 
attended to is the diet ; articles of 
food which may be taken with advan- 
tage in one country, will be found to 
disagree with the same person in 
another country. " Persons, for ex- 
ample," says Sir James Clarke, 
"bear a diet in England which 
would prove too exciting for them 
in Italy. Some articles of food, 
also, are more apt to disagree in the 
south : of this kind are fish, milk, 
and even vegetables, all of which 
should be used in great moderation 
by persons in delicate health. As 
soon, therefore, as a person changes 
his climate, he ought to adapt his 
manner of living to that which he 
has begun to inhabit. Besides the 
diet, the clothing also requires par- 
ticular attention. This should be 
as warm during the winter in the 
south of Europe as in England. The 
feelings are altered in respect to 
temperature ; and the houses being 
relatively colder in Italy, warmer 
clothing is necessary within doors 
than in this country. It is advisable 
also to keep the whole apartment at 
a moderate tem|)erature, and to avoid 



866 



A WORD TO INVALIDS 



approacWng too near the fire. To 
seek also too exclusively the sun's 
rays is particularly injurious in the 
south of Europe, more especially 
during the spring. From these 
causes arise headaches, catarrhs, in- 
flammatory aflfections of the chest, 
and even fevers." 

Only one other general remark 
need be made here ; and that refers 
to the periods which ought to be se- 
lected by invalids for travelling and 
change of climate. Two periods are 
available for this purpose — namely, 
early in June or early in September. 
If be leave England early in June, 
he can then pass the summer in 
Germany and Switzerland, availing 
himself, if it be desirable, of the 
mineral waters, and reach Italy by 
the latter end of September. But 
if it be considered necessary only 
to leave England on the approach of 
the cold season, then it will be suffi- 
cient to start early in September, 
and so enable him to enjoy a mild 
climate to the place of his destination, 
provided the journey be managed 
with judgment, and the progress 
steady. " The proper time for enter- 
ing Italy is the end of September or 
early in October. For Nice and the 
south of France, the period of de- 
parture need not be quite so soon ; 
although an invalid can scarcely 
have too much time for his journey, 
inasmuch as, if conducted with 
judgment and made at the proper 
season, it will be more beneficial to 
his health the more time it occupies, 
within reasonable limits. 

Having made these general re- 
marks on travelling and climate, it 
now only remains for me to mention 
the leading characteristics of some 
of those climates which are most 
frequently resorted to by invalids. 

THE CHANNEL ISLANDS. 

These islands, but especially 
Jersey, are occasionally the resort of 
travellers in search oi health. 



The climate of the Channel Islands 
has a close resemblance to that of the 
south-west coast of England, and 
especially to Penzance. There are 
the same soft humid atmosphere, 
the same equable temperature, and 
the same liability to high winds 
during the winter, and cold north- 
east winds in the spring, which cha- 
racterize the latter place. The 
mean temperature of Jersey, accord- 
ing to Dr. Hooper, is 43'82 during 
the winter, 50*97 during the spring, 
62*84 in the summer, |and 54*63 in 
the autumn, giving an average of 
53-06 degrees of Fahrenheit's ther- 
mometer for the whole year. Dr. 
Hooper says " that the Island of 
Jersey enjoys an early spring, and 
a protracted autumn ; vegetation 
being usually active and forward in 
March, and the landscape of the 
country far from naked so late as the 
end of December. With rare ex- 
ceptions, the latter season passes ofi' 
in soft or windy weather, with inter- 
vals of astonishing mild days, and 
with scarcely any frost or snow. The 
prevailing winds of this season are 
the west and south-west, and the 
actual temperature, its variations 
and ranges, are all in favour of this 
Island compared with other places 
in neighbouring latitudes. The 
season of spring is of course marked 
by the same unsteadiness in tem- 
perature and harsh variations of 
weather as in most places under a 
similar latitude ; and this disadvan- 
tage is particularly felt in May, 
which often fails to bring with it 
the expected enjoyments. The month 
of March, on the contrary, is com- 
paratively mild, and so is October." 

From the humid character of the 
climate, the most frequent disease in 
the Channel Islands is chronic rheu- 
matism, which in the rural districts 
is universal after the age of thirty. 
But some parts of Jersey are healthier 
than others ; among others, St. 
Aubin's is considered one of the best 
situations for invalids. Great caution 



ON TRAVELLING EXERCISE, AND CLIMATE. 



867 



therefore must be used as to the 
class of persons who may with pro- 
priety be sent there ; but in those 
cases where it is applicable, the 
general qualities of the climate may 
be available during a period of six 
months in the year. 

CLIMATES OF FRANCE. 

Various places on the southern 
frontier of France have, from time 
to time, been pointed out as suitable 
residences for English invalids ; it 
is only proper that they should be 
described here, especially as this 
southern frontier may be divided into 
two portions, differing essentially from 
each other in the physical characters 
of their climate, and the influence of 
this climate on disease. 

South-west of France. — The 
south-western provinces of France, 
situated at the base of the Pyrenees, 
and formerly constituting the king- 
dom of Navarre, have a climate in 
many respects resembling that of the 
south-west coast of England ; the 
mean annual temperature being four 
degrees higher. '' The climate may 
be characterized as soft, humid, and 
relaxing ; and, generally speaking, 
beneficial in chronic inflammatory 
affections of the mucous membranes, 
accompanied with little secretion, as 
in chronic bronchitis not attended 
by much expectoration or difficulty 
of breathing, and in similar morbid 
states of the air passages. It will 
be equally proper in dry, scaly erup- 
tions of the skin, in certain kinds of 
headache, especially those induced 
or exasperated by sharp north-east 
winds, and in high morbid sensibility 
generally, when accompanied with 
that habit of body which the ancients 
called strictum (bound). On the 
other hand, the same diseases occur- 
ring in relaxed habits, in which there 
is a disposition to copious secretion, 
will be aggravated by this climate.'^ 
(Clarke.) 

Pau. — The only place on the 



south-western frontier, which it is 
necessary particularly to notice, is 
Pau, the ancient capital of the little 
kingdom of French Navarre and 
Beam, now chef lieu of the Dept. 
des Basses Pyrenees. It stands on 
a lofty ridge, forming the right bank 
of the river, or Gave de Pau, and 
contains nearly 13,000 inhabitants. 
Its situation is perhaps scarcely 
surpassed by that of any town in ■ 
France, if we consider the magnifi- 
cent view of the Western Pyrenees, 
which expands in front of it. The 
view, reminding one somewhat of that 
from the Platform at Berne, though 
far inferior to it, is well seen either 
from the castle and its terrace, or 
from the extremity of the oblong, 
formal, gravelly promenade near the 
centre of the town, called tie Place 
Royale, or from the Pare. 

Pau owes its chief historical re- 
nown to having been the birth-place 
of" Bon Hoi Henry lY.," who drew 
his first breath in its ancient, time- 
honoured castle, the most prominent 
feature of the town, and abounding 
in interesting reminiscences of that 
monarch. The entire restoration of 
the interior has recently been under- 
taken by Louis Phillippe, and has 
been executed as yet with "very good 
taste and splendour. Bernadotte, 
king of Sweden, son of a poor sadler 
in Pau, was born in a house Rue de 
Tran, No. 6. 

The town of Pau in itself is not 
very handsome or remarkable. Its 
chief street is the Rue de la Prefec- 
ture, which, on market days, presents 
a bustling scene 5 here are the chief 
shops, such as they are. 

Hotels. H. de France, at the 
corner of the Place Royale; good 
and excellent cuisine, a good table 
d'hote, 3 f. ; its back windows have 
a good prospect. H, de PJEurope, 
Rue de la Prefecture ; very good. 
H. de la Porte, Place de Henry IV. ; 
beds, 3 f. to 30 sous ; caf^ au lait 
and eggs, 2 f. ; table d'hote, 3 f. 
H. de Dourade, ditto. 



868 



A WORD TO INVALIDS 



Pau has been greatly resorted to of 
late by the wealthy Parisians ; good 
houses are consequently difficult to 
procure, and though provisions are 
cheap, house rent is enormously high ; 
a moderately good suite of apartments 
costs more than a similar set at 
Paris. A number of new houses, 
however, have lately been built. 
Many English also have shown their 
good taste by making Pau their resi- 
dence chiefly for the winter months ; 
when its mild climate, and ttie still- 
ness of atmosphere peculiar to it 
are a great recommendation. This 
calmness is a striking character of 
the climate, high winds being of rare 
occurrence and of short duration. 

According to Dr. Playfair, the 
good qualities of the winter climate 
of Pau may be summed up as fol- 
lows : — Calmness, moderate cold, 
bright sunshine of considerable power, 
a dry state of the atmosphere and of 
the soil, and rains of short duration. 
Against these must be placed — 
changeableness, the fine weather 
being as short-lived as the bad ; 
rapid variations of temperature within 
moderate limits. In autumn and 
spring there are heavy rains- 

" There are several circumstances 
in the climate of Pau which render 
it a favourable residence for a certain 
class of invalids. The atmosphere, 
when it does not rain, is dry, and 
the weather fine, and there are 
neither fogs nor cold piercing winds. 
The characteristic quality of the 
climate, however, is the mildness of 
its spring, and exemption from cold 
winds. While the winter is rather 
more thantwo degrees colder than the 
warmest parts of England, and about 
five degrees colder than Rome, the 
spring is nearly 4^ warmer than 
the former, and only 2| colder 
than the latter. 7'he mildness of 
the spring, and its little liability to 
winds, renders this place favourable 
in diseases of the air passages. Dr. 
Playfair has found it beneficial in 
gastritic dyspepsia and some cases 



of asthma ; also in irritation of the 
air passages; but he adds, it is re- 
laxing, and tone is never acquired 
there. Hence the change from Pau 
should be to a bracing climate. 
With delicate children, also, he 
found the climate agree well, espe- 
cially when they removed to the 
mountains during the summer. In 
bronchial diseases, when accom- 
panied with relaxation of the system, 
and with Copious expectoration and 
dyspnoea, this climate does not in 
general prove beneficial ; and Dr. 
Playfair considers it too changeable 
in consumption." (Clarke). 

In those cases where the climate 
of Pau is beneficial, the mineral 
waters of the Pyrenees may also 
prove beneficial. Eor this purpose 
invalids should winter in Pau, and 
go into the mountains in the summer. 
South-east of France. — Mont- 
pelier and Marseilles have, at dif- 
ferent times, been recommended to 
consumptive persons as a favourable 
winter climate ; but certainly the 
leading features of that district do not 
justify such a recommendation. " The 
general character of the climate of the 
south-east of France is dry, hot and 
irritating. Its temperature through- 
out the year and the day is distri- 
buted with great irregularity, and 
the range is much wider than in our 
own climate ; being as three to one 
in the year, and as two to one for 
the day. The temperature, no doubt, 
remains more steady from day to 
day than our own ; but its changes, 
though less frequent, are more sudden 
and extensive. Sometimes the winter 
is very rigorous. The orange trees 
are occasionally killed by the cold 
in the most sheltered parts of Pro- 
vence. In 1709 the ports of Mar- 
seilles and Toulon were frozen over. 
The whole of this tract of country 
is subject also to keen, cold , northerly 
winds, especially the mistral^ which 
prevails during the winter and spring, 
and is most injurious in pulmonary 
diseases. Although decidedly im- 



ON TRAVELLING EXERCISE, AND CLIMATE. 



869 



proper for consumptive patients, and 
for those labouring under irritation 
of the mucous membranes of the 
lungs, stomach, and otTier orgeins, 
this climate may prove useful to in- 
valids of a different class. On per- 
sons of a torpid or relaxed habit of 
body, and of a gloomy, desponding 
cast of mind, w^ith whom a moist 
relaxing atmosphere disagrees, the 
keen, bracing, dry air of Provence, 
and its brilliant skies, will often pro- 
duce a beneficial effect. In some cases 
of chronic intermittent fever, also, 
it proves very favourable." ("Clarke.) 

Montpelier. — It is difficult to un- 
derstand why this place should have 
obtained the celebrity it once en- 
joyed, as a resort for consumptive 
invalids ; for certainly its medical 
statistics exhibit a large amount of 
deaths from consumption. Indeed, M. 
Fournier states, that " the situation 
of the town, and the dry and variable 
character of its climate, are local 
causes which will always be favour- 
able to the development of phthisis. 
In fact, he must have good lungs 
who can resist its baneful influence." 

Probably the celebrity of its medical 
school had a considerable share in 
giving rise to the reputation which it 
acquired. 

Marseilles. — The same remarks 
apply in full force to Marseilles, 
which indeed is one of the towns in 
France where pulmonary consump- 
tion is most prevalent. A large pro- 
portion of the youth of both sexes 
is carried off by it. 

Hyeres. — Situated on the slope of 
a hill, sheltered from the N.E. wind 
by the chain of Les Maures, and 
open to the south, the little town of 
Hyeres has been deemed the least ex- 
ceptionable spot in Pro vence,as a win- 
ter residence for persons having pul- 
monary affections. The orange trees 
bears fruit here ; but occasionally 
the winter has been sufficiently cold to 
destroy them. " The lower grounds 
are occupied with vines and corn, and 
about the bases of the hills the olive 



is extensively cultivated, and attains 
a considerable size. The hills im- 
mediately surrounding Hyeres are 
finely covered with evergreen shrubs, 
affording a striking contrast to the 
bare unseemly aspect which the hills 
of Provence generally present. The 
thyme, rosemary, lavender, and 
many other aromatic plants grow 
here in abundance ; and several of 
these we find blooming in December. 
Still it is by no means sufficiently 
protected from the mistral to render 
it a desirable residence for consump- 
tive invalids, although it has been 
strongly recommended as such." 
(Claike.) 

NICE. 

The climate of Nice seems to 
occupy an intermediate position be- 
tween the climates of Italy and the 
South of France ; being less ener- 
vating than the former and less irri- 
tating than the latter. This seems 
to depend in a great measure on the 
position of the place with respect to 
the neighbouring mountains and the 
sea. The maritime Alps form a 
lofty barrier, which shelters it in 
some degree from northerly winds 
during winter ; and the cool sea 
breeze which prevails every day with 
a regularity almost equal to that of 
a tropical climate, moderates the 
summer'heat. On this account the 
temperature throughout the year is 
more equally distributed at Nice 
than at any other place in the south 
of Europe, except E.ome and Cadiz. 
The mistral, which is the great bane 
of Provence, is pretty well broken 
and directed to the southward by 
the Estrelles, a chain of mountains 
between Frejus and Cannes. 

'.' The weather at Nice during the 
winter is comparatively settled and 
fine, the atmosphere being generally 
clear, and the sky remarkable for its 
brilliancy. The temperature seldom 
sinks to the freezing point, and when 
it does, it is only during the night ; 



m 



A WORD TO INVALIDS 



SO that vegetation is never altogether 
suspended. Indeed, at Nice, winter 
is a season of flowers, the dryness 
of the air rendering the same degree 
of cold less injurious to them than it 
would be in a humid atmosphere. 
Spring is the most unfavourable 
season ; the sharp, chilling, easterly 
winds are the greatest enemy with 
which the invalid has to contend ; 
and the prevalence of these during 
the months of March and April 
forms the greatest objection to this 
climate, especially In pulmonary dis- 
eases,'^ (Clarke.) 

The climate of Nice has long been 
held in repute for its beneficial effects 
in cases of consumption ; but, ac- 
cording to Sir James Clarke, the 
eases of consumption which ought 
to be sent there are of rare occurrence. 
And in this opinion he is supported 
by the testimony of Dr. Skirving, 
who resided there eight years, and 
Professor Fodere, of Strasburg, 
after a six years' residence. Even 
in cases where consumption is only 
threatened, great discrimination will 
be necessary in the selection of those 
cases which are best fitted, from the 
constitution of the individual, for 
that climate. In all cases where the 
disease is complicated, with an irri- 
table state of the air passages or 

stomach, the climate of Nice will 
undoubtedly prove unfavourable. 
When the disease has made some 
progress, the climate of Nice will, 
in the great majority of cases, only 
tend to hasten the result ; unless 
when it occurs in persons of a torpid 
constitution, and is free from the 
complications which have just been 

mentioned. 

Chronic bronchitis, which often 
simulates phthisis, whenaccompanied 
by copious expectoration, is very 
much mitigated, if not entirely cured, 
by a winter residence at Nice, where 
the invalid is able to be a good deal 
in the open air ; whereas if he re- 
mained in England he would, in all 



probability, have been confined 
during the greater part of the 
winter to the house. 

Cases of gout and rheumatism are 
also much benefited by this climate. 

In dyspepsia, and the long train 
of ills which accompany it, the cli- 
mate of Nice may prove highlj^ 
beneficial, provided the cases be 
properly selected. But if any symp- 
toms be present, indicating an in- 
flamed or irritable state of the mu- 
cous membranes, then the result will 
be unfavourable. 

" In stating its general influence 
on the animal economy, I would say 
that the climate of Nice is warm, 
exhilarating, and exciting ; but to 
highly sensitive constitutions sorre- 
what irritating, more especially 
during the spring." (Clarke.) 

The proper time for invalids to 
arrive at Nice is about the middle of 
October, and they should not leave 
it till about the beginning of May ; 
unless they intend to move on to- 
wards Genoa, in which case they 
may leave Nice at a much earlier 
period. 

Villa Franca, Mentone, and 
several other places within a few 
miles of Nice, are identical with it 
in point of climate. But the accom- 
modation at these places, is some- 
what limited, and therefore invalids 
are prevented, to some extent, from 
availing themselves of the advan- 
tages derivable from the general 
character of their climate. 

CLIMATES OF ITALY. 

Those portions of Italy which lie 
between the Apennines and the 
shores of the Mediterranean, have 
chiefly hitherto attracted the notice 
of medical men ; and certainly the 
climate of this district presents 
many points of difference from those 
of the south of France and Nice. 
" It is considerably warmer and less 
humid, but subject to a greater 



ON TRAVELLING EXERCISE, AND CLIMITE 



871 



range of temperature than that of 
the south-west, — softer, less dry, and 
less harsh and irritating than that 
of the south-east of France ; suffer- 
ing more from the heavy oppressive 
winds of the south, and less from 
the dry searching winds of the 
north." 

It may easily be imagined that 
the degree of proximity to the sea 
on the one hand, to the mountains 
on the other, or to both, will in some 
degree modify the climate in different 
parts of that district. For example, 
Genoa and Naples are in the vicinity 
of both, as the mountains at these 
places approach closely to the JVle- 
diterranean ; Pisa is only a few 
miles distant from the latter, and 
close to the Tuscan hills, a branch of 
the lower Apennine range ; Rome is 
about twelve miles from the coast, 
and nearly twice that distance from 
the mountains ; Florence is quite 
embosomed in the Apennines, and 
the character of its climate is affected 
to such a degree, in consequence, as 
scarcely to admit of its being classed 
with the other Italian climates. 

Genoa is not, on the whole, a 
suitable residence for invalids ; as 
the surromiding country is not well 
adapted for out-door exercise, and 
its climate has little to recommend 
it. The range of temperature is 
greater than at Nice ; the summers 
being hotter, and the winters colder. 
The temperature, moreover, is very 
variable. " The climate, on the 
whole, is dry and healthy, but not 
suitable to delicate, sensitive inva- 
lids. It is more congenial to relaxed, 
phlegmatic habits. For pulmonary 
invalids, Genoa is decidedly an im- 
proper residence." The rapid alter- 
nations of temperature, accompanied 
at one time with cold north winds, 
at another with humid south-easterly 
winds, give rise to inflammatory 
affections of the lungs and air pas- 
sages, eminently unfavourable to 
consumptive persons, and consti- 
tuting an important item in the 

(EUROPEAN tourist). 



mortality of Genoa. Dyspeptic 
complaints, gout, and calculous dis- 
eases, and intermittent fevers, are 
less prevalent here than in most 
parts of Italy, while rheumatism 
and scrofula are common. 

Florence is delightful for those 
who are not invalids, but more espe- 
cially those who are not consumptive 
invalids. Dr. Playfair describes the 
months of December and January as 
intensely cold, especially during the 
nights ; February and March cold 
and humid, the east winds of the 
latter month being extremely keen 
and often checking the progress of 
vegetation In April and May the 
weather is fine, the temperature gra- 
dually rising in the latter month to 
74 degrees. During July and August 
everything is parched up ; the tem- 
perature rises to 80 and even 90 de- 
grees, and the nights are oppressively 
hot. In September the weather be- 
comes cool, and during this and the 
two following months is generally 
fine, although in October fogs are 
common. 

It is, therefore, highly injurious in 
consumption and all inflammatory 
affections of the chest ; but on the 
other hand, its bracing influence is 
beneficial in certain forms of asthma, 
in dyspepsia arising from debility of 
the stomach, in gout, and even in 
scrofulous enlargements of the glands, 
which disappear by a residence at 
Florence. 

j All invalids should leave Florence 
I during July and August ; the baths 
I at Lucca affording a very convenient 
! retreat during those months. 
1 Pisa, situated on the banks of the 
i Arno, about five miles from the sea 
j coast, has long been considered one 
of the most favourable climates in 
Italy for consumptive patients. It 
is pretty well sheltered on the north 
and east from cold, and the houses 
on the north bank of the river (Lung' 
Arno) having a southern aspect, are 
the most suitable residences for in- 
valids. "The climate of Pisa is 



872 



A WOKD TO INVALIDS 



genial, but rather oppressive and 
damp. It is softer than that of Nice, 
but not so warm ; less soft, but less 
oppressive, than that of K-ome. For 
invalids who are almost confined to 
the house, or whose means of taking 
exercise is much limited, Pisa offers 
advantages over either Rome or 
Nice." (Clarke.) 

Rome. — The phj-sical qualities of 
the climate of Rome strongly recom- 
mend it for pulmonary invalids. The 
mean annual temperature is 10 deg. 
higher than at London ; the mean 
winter temperature is also 10 deg. 
higher than at London. Rome is 
also remarkable for its steadiness of 
temperature from day to day, which 
our own country, with the exception 
of Penzance, is so deficient in. It 
cannot be called a damp country ; for 
although one third more rain falls in 
Rome than in the dry, parching 
climates of Provence and Nice, yet 
it is drier than Pisa and the south- 
west of France. The atmosphere, 
at Rome, is remarkable for its still- 
ness ; high winds being of rare oc- 
currence. It is scarcely necessary to 
point out the importance of this 
stillness of the atmosphere in all 
affections of the lungs and air pas- 
sages ; for most persons are aware of 
the hurtful tendency of wind in such 
cases. 

The most prevalent diseases in 
Rome are the Malaria fevers, which 
are exactly similar, both in their 
nature and general characters, to 
the fevers which still exist in the 
Fens of Lincolnshire and Essex in 
our own country ; in Holland, and in 
certain districts over the greater 
part of the globe. As these fevers 
inci'ease in severity, cceteris paribus^ 
proportionately with increase of tem- 
perature ; as a matter of course, they 
are more severe, occurring in Rome, 
than in this country. The principal 
period of the year when Malaria fevers 
are most prevalent, is from the com- 
mencement of July to the end of 
October; a period, during which few 



strangers reside there Fevers oc- 
curring at other seasons are generally 
relapses, or complicated with other 
diseases. Of course in such a climate 
visitors ought to be very careful in 
avoiding currents of cold air when 
heated, chills in damp places, sleep- 
ing with open windows, or exposure 
to the sun's rays, especially in 
spring. Errors and irregularities of 
diet are also fruitful sources of 
danger in such a climate. The 
generous diet and liberal allowance 
of wine, which Englishmen are in 
the habit of using as a preservative 
against Malaria, only render the in- 
dividual more liable to diseases of 
every kind ; because the mode of 
living which is likely to be useful, 
or at all events maybe borne without 
injury, in England, Holland, and 
places of a similar kind, is not at 
all suited to the exciting climate of 
Italy. A plain and very moderate 
diet, free from all exciting qualities, 
is the best suited for such a climate ; 
for no circumstance enables the 
human frame to withstand the at- 
tacks of disease, in any country, sa 
completely as a healthy state of the 
digestive organs. 

In choosing a residence at Rome, 
much depends upon the season ; for 
in the summer and autumnal seasons, 
there is a material difference in the 
salubrity of different parts of Rome, 
but in the season when strangers 
chiefly reside there, the choice of 
situation is of much less importance. 
"Humid, confined situations, sub- 
ject to great alternations of tempera- 
ture between day and night, are the 
most dangerous. Dryness, a free 
circulation of air, and a full expo- 
sure to the sun, are the material 
conditions to be attended to in 
choosing a residence. Of all the 
physical qualities of the air, humidity 
is the most injurious to human life ; 
and therefore, in selecting a resi- 
dence or situations for building, in 
all climates particular regard should 
be bad to the circumstances which 



ON TRAVELLING EXERCISE, AND CLIMATE. 



873 



are calculated to obviate humidity in 
the soil and atmosphere. A person 
may, I believe, sleep with perfect 
safety in the centre of the Pontine 
Marshes, if he have his room kept 
well heated by a fire during the 
night." (Clarke.) 

A very peculiar sensibility of the 
nervous system has latterly been ob- 
served in Rome, especially among 
females, who become affected in a 
very singular manner by scents and 
perfumes of various kinds. What is 
more remarkable is, that it is not 
disagreeable odours that produce this 
effect, but the more delicate, and, to 
northern nations, more agreeable, 
odours of flowers and other perfumes. 
Dr. De Matheeis, in remarking on 
this, says, that " there is nothing 
wonderful in this, if we consider 
the daily increasing mobility (ir- 
ritability) of the nervous system, 
produced by the luxurious, inactive 
life of our Romans." This, how- 
ever, is not sufficient by itself to 
account for it ; and Dr. Clarke is no 
doubt right in his opinion, that cli- 
mate has a specific effect in inducing 
this state of the nervous system. 
For he remarks, that " even a tem- 
porary residence of some duration in 
Rome produces a degree of the same 
morbid sensibility, and that in cases 
where the Roman mode of living 
cannot be adduced as the cause." 

The other diseases of most fre- 
quent occurrence at Rome, during 
the winter and spring, are inflamma- 
tory affections of the chest, which 
are frequently very severe. Pure 
tubercular consumption is not of fre- 
quent occurrence in Rome ; most of 
the cases of pulmonary disease being 
chiefly the result of inflammation. 
Headaches are common at Rome, 
especially among strangers. 

There can be little doubt that the 
climate of Rome exerts a decidedly 
beneficial influence in the early stages 
of consumption. If people were to 
take timely warning, and betake 



themselves to Rome as soon as they 
fell into that state of ill health 
which, if not checked in time, would 
terminate in consumption, many a 
useful member of society might be 
rescued from a premature grave. 
Even after the tubercular deposit has 
commenced. Sir J. Clarke, Dr. Car- 
lyle, and others, all concur in the belief 
that the climate of Rome has a most 
marked power of checking and re- 
straining the progress of the disease 
for a time. In the latter stages of 
the disease, when the powers of the 
system are giving way, this or 
any other climate is powerless for 
good ; and sometimes, under such 
circumstances, a residence at Rome, 
especially in the spring, will fre- 
quently accelerate the fatal result. 

In bronchial affections, also, espe- 
cially where there is great irritability 
of the bronchial membrane, this cli- 
mate is very beneficial ; particular 
in cases of chronic bronchitis, of a 
dry, irritable kind. Many cases of 
Rheumatism also have derived great 
advantage from a residence here. 

But the climate of Rome is de- 
cidedly inimical to all persons of a 
full, plethoric, apoplectic character, 
or those who have had paralytic 
affections, or persons of a nervous 
melancholic temperament. In some 
of these cases a residence here would 
be attended with great danger. 

The facilities for exercise in Rome 
are greater than those afforded by 
any other city of the south of Europe. 
This applies equally to pedestrians 
and equestrians. But invalids, in 
enjoying this kind of exercise, ought 
to avoid the allurements which the 
monuments of past ages hold out. 
For, unfortunately, the places where 
those relics of ancient art are to be 
seen, are cold and not unfrequently 
damp ; and if the invalid pays long 
and frequent visits to these places, 
he had better have remained at home. 
Invalids wishing to visit those places, 
should select a mild, warm day, and 



874 



A WORD TO INVALIDS 



stay hut a very short time ; by doing 
so he will not become chilled, and he 
will avoid the evil effects arising 
from the blood being driven from the 
surface of the body, to the great in- 
convenience of the internal organs, 
especially the lungs. 

The invalid should not arrive in 
Rome before the middle or latter end 
of October, and he should leave it 
for a summer residence about the 
middle of May. 

Naples, in its general character- 
istics of climate, more nearly re- 
sembles Nice than Home, or indeed 
any other Italian climate. For al- 
though its mean annual temperature, 
being higher than either Kome, Pisa, 
or Nice, might, in itself, be an 
advantage ; yet that advantage is 
materially counteracted by the greater 
variations in the temperature, the 
smaller quantity of rain, and the pre- 
valence, especially in the spring, of 
cold, dry, irritating winds ; which 
are exceedingly trying to invalids. 
It is not, therefore, at all suitable 
for consumptive invalids, nor for 
chronic inflammatory affections that 
are attended with much irritability. 
In fact, the most prevalent diseases 
in Naples are catarrhal affections, 
inflammation of the eyes, certain 
cutaneous eruptions, rheumatism, 
&c. But where there is no particular 
local disease, and the invalid is 
merely sufferingfrom general debility, 
and derangement of the general 
health consequent on that, a winter 
residence in Naples may prove highly 
beneficial. 

•' Of the situations frequented by 
strangers, the Borgo de Chiaza and 
Chiatamone afford altogether the 
best residences for invalids. These 
situations are fally exposed to the 
south, and pretty well sheltered from 
the north; while their immediate 
vicinity to the public gardens (Villa 
Reale) is convenient for walking ex- 
ercise." (Clarke.) 



CONTINENTAL SUMMER RESI- 
DENCES. 

Although those climates previously 
mentioned may, under proper re- 
strictions, be very suitable winter 
residences for invalids, yet, in those 
cases where a protracted residence 
on the continent is necessary for a 
re-establishment of health, it is 
highly important to select the most 
suitable summer residence. 

Those who have passed their 
winter in Italy may adopt one of 
two plans ; — either re-cross the Alps, 
or seek some more favourable spot in 
Italy itself. The latter will doubt- 
less be the most congenial course to 
many persons, because it will save 
them from the fatigue and incon- 
venience of a long journey. But 
very few of those who derive benefit 
from an Italian winter, ought to sub- 
ject themselves to the sultry oppres- 
siveness ofan Italian summer. In all 
cases of consumption, or even of ten- 
dency to it, where there is generally a 
relaxed texture of body and morbid 
sensitiveness of the nervous system, 
the temperature of an Italian summer 
will prove highly injurious. So like- 
wise in cases of irritation of the 
stomach and alimentary canal, from 
various causes, and in congestions of 
the abdominal viscera, with a de- 
ranged state of the functions of the 
liver, or a tendency to dysentery, the 
whole south of Europe is an impro- 
per residence during the summer. 
The exceptions may be found in those 
persons of torpid constitution, having 
but little nervous sensibility, or dis- 
position to febrile excitement, and in 
whom, from a rigid, rather than a 
relaxed, state of fibre, the cutane- 
ous secretions are defective : the 
increased cutaneous secretion, the 
relaxation of fibre, and increased ex- 
citement of the nervous system, con- 
sequent on a residence in some of the 
healthier portions of Italy during 
the summer, may prove highly ser- 
viceable. 



ON TRAVELLING EXERCISE, AND CLIMATE. 



875 



The places most frequented by 
those who pass the summer in Italy, 
are — Naples and its vicinity, Sienna, 
and the baths of Lucca. And Sir 
James Clarke is of opinion, that no 
'* place superior to them in point of 
climate, and possessing the necessary 
accommodations for ir.valids, is to be 
found in the north of Italy. The 
VoMERO and the Capo di Monte, 
in the immediate vicinity of Naples, 
are recommended as good summer 
residences. Of the more distant 
places, Sorento, Castelamare, 
and the island of Ischia are the best. 
Sienna is,from its exposed situation, 
liable to rather sudden changes of 
temperatureduringthe summer ; and 
therefore it is only suitable to those 
persons who are not likely to suffer 
much from these sudden transitions of 
temperature. The mean summer tem- 
perature is lower than at Naples, 
Rome, or Pisa ; but about 9deg. higher 
than at London. " It is a dry and 
healthy climate, and a good summer 
residence, particularly for relaxed 
people. For persons disposed to, or 
labouring under, pulmonary disease, 
however, Sienna is an unfavourable 
climate at all seasons." (Clarke.) 

The Baths of Lucca, embo- 
somed in the Apennines, is a plea- 
sant spot, that is very much resorted 
to in the summer months ; partly for 
its mineral waters, but chiefly for its 
cool and pleasant situation. The 
mean temperature, in summer, here 
is only about 6 degrees higher than 
in London. Another recommenda- 
tion is in the fact that there are no 
mosquitoes. The months of June, 
July, and August, constitute the 
proper season at this place ; any 
period, earlier or later, being damp 
and unsuitable to persons of delicate 
constitution. It is suited to persons 
of high nervous sensibility, who 
would suffer from great heat or from 
the effects of the sirocco. 

Switzerland. — The greater 
number of Invalids, after spending 
their winter and spring in various 



parts of Italy and the south of 
France, will find it necessary to seek 
a summer residence elsewhere. Those 
who have wintered in Italy, gene- 
rally take up their summer quarters 
in Switzerland, or at the German 
Spas. Switzerland is subject to 
great alternations of temperature, 
and there is frequently a sharpness 
in the atmosphere, that is rather irri- 
tating to sensitive persons. " But 
(says Sir J. Clarke) invalids may 
pass the summer in Switzerland with 
safety, provided they use prudence, 
and carefully avoid unnecessary ex- 
posure to the vicissitudes of the 
weather. They should also content 
themselves with such excursions only 
as they can accomplish without 
being over fatigued, or heated at one 
moment, and exposed, while in a 
state of perspiration, perhaps, to a 
cold breeze the next ; an occurrence 
to which one is constantly liable 
during mountain excursions in Swit- 
zerland. In a word, they should not 
for a moment lose sight of the great 
object for which they are there; 
namely, the improvement of theiu 
health. Severe attacks of fever, and 
other acute diseases, are not un- 
common in consequence of impru- 
dence of the kind alluded to, even 
among the more robust." Geneva, 
and more particularly those portions 
bordering on the Lake are the best 
summer residences. 

The German Spas are much frer 
quented, not merely by invalids from 
Italy, but also by large numbers 
who go there direct from England. 
Climate there is a matter of second- 
ary importance, the chief reliance of 
those who visit being in the medi- 
cinal efficacy of the various mineral 
waters. It is not consistent with 
our narrow limits to enter into an 
examination of the various proper- 
ties of these waters. One remark, 
however, is necessary on the subject ; 
— as much judgment and medical 
knowledge should be exercised in 
the use of them, as in the employ- 



876 



A WORD TO INVALIDS, ETC. 



ment of the most powerful drags in 
the Materia Medica. For, if they 
be employed without due caution and 
discrimination, they will not only 
disappoint the expectations of the 
patient, but may even produce most 
disastrous results. 

Those who have wintered in the 



south of France, particularly at Pau, 
very commonly spend their summer 
in the Pyrenees, where there are 
mineral springs which they can avail 
themselves of. The proper period 
for taking up residence in the 
Pyrenees is about the latter en d of 
June. 



*»* This " Word to Invalids" has been written at the suggestion of the 
publisher, who very properly considered that it would not only form a novel, 
but a useful, feature in connexion with these hand-books. Probably the 
majority of those who travel, are, to a greater or less extent, Invalids ; 
and it is to be hoped that the few remarks now offered, may prove a useful 
guide to those who travel under such circumstances. Of course the copy- 
right to this " Word to Invalids" is the property of the publisher, Mr. 
Hugh Hughes, of 15, St. Martin's-le-Grand. 

T. S, 



CAUTION TO TEAVELLERS. 



By a recent Act of Parliament, the introduction into 
England of foreign pirated editions of the works of British 
authors J in which the copyright subsists, is totally prohibited. 
Travellers loill therefore hear in mind, that even a single 
copy is liable to seizure at an English Custom-house. 

These contraband editions are generally printed closely 
to imitate the English editions, and are sold at one or two 
francs below the genuine work, but by a close inspection of 
the printing, binding, and printers'' names, the forgery may 
easily be detected. Many thousands are worked off, new 
titles are occasionally substituted, and it is not an uncommon 
thing to find a book seven or eight years old sold as a new 
edition, which, in some cases, a tempting low price will 
induce travellers to purchase, toithout reflecting that they 
alone are the promoters of this literary robbery practised 
by foreign unprincipled publishers, to the serious injury of 
those ivlio devote a great portion of their lives to the collection 
and compiling, in the simplest form, valuable information 
for travellers. 

Travellers desiring this guide book abroad, will find at 
page 3 a list of continental booksellers where it may he had. 



IV 



HOUTES.— CENTRAL EUROPE. 



ROUTES. 



THROUGH CENTRAL EUROPE. 



ROUTE 

No. 3. Amsterdam to Saardam and Broek 
4. Amsterdam to Nymegen 
9. Antwerp to Brussels and Cologne, Railroad 

15. Aix-la-Chapelle to Cologne, Railroad 
25. Baden-Baden to Kehl, Railroad 
39. Basle to Schaff hausen . 

37. Basle to Zurich 

38. Basle to Bern 
54. Bern to Neufchatel 
29. Berlin to Leipsic, Railroad 
53. Bern to Bienne . . . 

57. Bern to Lausanne, by Friburg 
10. Brussels to Namur, Railroad 
56. Bienne to Solothurn 
67- Calais to Paris, by Abbeville 
68. Calais to Paris, by Amiens 

16. Cologne to Bonn, Railroad . 

17. Cologne to Bonn, Rhine . ^ 

18. Coblence to Mayence 
41. Constance to St. Gall . 

19. Coblence to Ems and Nassau 
78. Chalons sur Soane to Lyons 
65. Chamounix to Martigny 
24. Carlsruhe to Baden Baden, Railroad 
31. Dresden to Vienna, by Prague 
72. Dieppe to Paris 
22, Fra.nkfort to Heidelberg 

34. Frankfort to Carlsbad . 

35. Frankfort to Vienna, by Stuttgard and Munich 
33. Frankfort to Vienna, by Kissengen and by 

Danube 

58. Friburg to Vevey . 
64. Geneva to Chamounix . 
62. Geneva to Lausanne 

28. Hamburg to Berlin . . . 

71. Havre to Rouen and Paris . 

50. Interlachen to Brientz . 

51. Interlachen to Thun 



ROUTES.— CfiNTKAL EUROPE. 



ROUTE 

No. 87. Jersey to St Malo 

26. Kehl to Schaflfhausen, by the Black Forest 
58. Lausanne to Martigny 
80. Leipsic to Dresden, Railroad 

8. London to Antwerp . 
69. London to Boulogne 
6Q. London to Calais 
69. London to Dieppe 

27. London to Hamburg . 

12. London to Ostend 

1. London to Rotterdam 

47. Lucerne to Bern 

48. Lucerne to Interlacben 

80. Lyons to Geneva 
79. Lyons to Avignon and Marseilles 
14. Malines to Liege, Railroad 
24. Mannheim to Heidelberg, Baden, Keh^, Railroad 
23. Mayence to Mannheim 

69. Martigny to St Bernard . 
63. Martigny to Thun, by Gemmi Pass 
11. Namur to Liege 
55. Neufchatel to Lausanne 

6. Nymegen to Cologne, by Cleves 

7. Nymegen to Cologne, by the Rhine 

13. Ostend to Brussels and Cologne, Railroad 
32. Prague to Linz 

73. Paris to Bordeaux 
Paris to Brussels 
Paris to Nantes 
Paris to Lyons, by Chalons 
Paris to Orleans, Railroad 

81. Paris to Strasbourg 
43. Ragatz to Zurich 

49. Reichenbach to Interlachen 

2. Rotterdam to Amsterdam 
Rotterdam to Nymegen . 
Rouen to Paris 

St Gall to the Baths of PfefiPers 
St Malo to Nantes 

83. Southampton to Jersey and Guernsey 

70. Southampton to Havre 
36. Strasbourg to Basle, Railroad . 
40. Schaffhausen to Constance 
52. Thun to Berne 

74. Tours to Bordeaux 
78. Tours to Nantes 

20. Wiesbaden to Frankfort, Railroad 

21. Wiesbaden to Homburg . 
46. Zurich to Lucerne 



82. 
75. 

77. 
72. 



o. 
71. 
42, 

76. 



INDEX. — CENTRAL EUROPE. 



INDEX. 



FOR BELGIUM, HOLLAND, GERMANY, FRANCE, PARIS, 
SWITZERLAND, JERSEY, AND GUERNSEY. 



A. 




















Page 


Bains de Bretiege 


- 


- 


Aar, River - 


. 


_ 


101 


Bains de Lavey 


. 


. 


Aarberg 


- 


- 


393 


Bamberg 


. 


- 


Abbeville 


. 


- 


337 


Basle or Bale 


. 


. 


Aigle 


- 


- 


309 


Baths of Leuk 


- 


- 


Airaines 


- 


- 


337 


Baths of PfefFers 


_ 


_ 


Aix-la-Chapelle 


- 


. 


83 


Berlin 


- 


- 


Aix-les-bains 


. 


_ 


410 


Bex - 


. 


_ 


Albis Mountain 


- 


- 


254 


Beaugency 


. 


- 


Alderney 


- 


- 


439 


Beauvais 


-, 


. 


Alost 


. 


- 


76 


Beaumont 


_ 


. 


Altorf 


- 


- 


268 


Belgium, historical account 


of 


Altona 


- 


. 


183 


Bellegarde 


- 


~ 


Amboise 


. 


- 


396 


Bendorf 


_ 


- 


Amiens 


- 


- 


338 


Benfield 


- 


. 


Amsterdam - 


- 


. 


13 


Berne 


. 


_ 


Ancenis 


. 


- 


422 


Bingen 


> 


- 


Andernach 


. 


. 


102 


Biberich 


_ 


. 


Andermatt - 


- 


- 


270 


Bienne 


. 


- 


Angers 


- 


- 


400 


Biezoliet 


- 


- 


Angouleme - 


- 


- 


398 


Bingerloch 


_ 


_ 


Antwerp 


. 


- 


34 


Blois 


- 


- 


Appenzell 


- 


- 


242 


Black Forest 


- 


- 


Arrival on the Continent 


«, 


XXX 


Bolbec 


- 


. 


Arnheim 


- 


- 


20 


Boppart 


- 


. 


Arveron source 


- 


- 


331 


Borcette 


_ 


_ 


Ara Bacchi - 


. 


- 


116 


Bonmel 


- 


- 


Art - 


- 


- 


256 


Bonn 


. 


- 


Asmanshausen 


- 


. 


117 


Bonne ville ^ 


- 


. 


Augsburg 


- 


- 


221 


Bordeaux 


_ 


- 


Aussig 


- 


- 


198 


Bornheim 


. 


- 


Aust - 


- 


- 


232 


Boulogne 


- 


- 


Autun 


- 


- 


405 


Brauback 


- 


- 


Auxerre 


■- 


- 


404 


Breisig 


. 


- 


Avallon 


- 


. 


404 


Hroek - 


^ 


. 


Aventicum - 


- 


- 


300 


Bruchsal 


. 


_ 


Avignon 


- 


- 


410 


Brugg 
Brussels 


- 


- 


B. 








Bruges 


- 


- 


Bacherach 


- 


- 


115 


Brientz 


- 


. 


Baden-Baden 


. 


. 


169 


Biiderich 


_ 


- 


Baden (Switzerland) 


- 


233 


Budwitz 


- 


- 



Page 

295 

309 

216 

229 

325 

234 

184 

309 

395 

337 

337 

31 

412 

106 

226 

289 

118 

121 

294 

34 

117 

395 

182 

340 

112 

87 

23 

95 

327 

398 

152 

336 

112 

102 

18 

168 

232 

42 

62 

284 

26 

200 



INDEX. — CENTRAL EUROPE. 









Page 








Page 


Burglen 


- 


- 


269 


Dort 


* 


. 


22 


Bulle - 


- 


- 


302 


Dover railroad 


. 


_ 


57 










Dresden 


- 


_ 


193 


C. 








Drance 


- 


_ 


311 


Calais 


. 


- 


335 


Drachenfels - 


- 


_ 


100 


Cambray 


- 


- 


414 


Durlach 


-. 


_ 


168 


Capellen 


- 


- 


111 


Duties' list - 


- 


- 


xxiii 


Carriages, duty on 


- 


- 


XXX 


Dusseldorf 


- 


_ 


27 


Carlsbad 


- 


. 


217 










Carlsruhe 


- 


- 


168 


E. 








Caskets lighthouse 


-_ 


- 


416 


Eau de Cologne 


_ 


. 


93 


Castel 


- 


- 


145 


Ehrenbreitstein 


. 


. 


109 


Caub 


- 


- 


115 


Elbe river 


- 


. 


183 


Chaise a Porteurs 


- 


. 


XXV 


Elfeld 


. 


_ 


121 


Chablis 


- 


- 


404 


Einsiedeln abbey 


_ 


. 


249 


Charenton 


- 


- 


403 


Ems - 


- 


_ 


127 


Chalons sur Soane 


- 


- 


405 


Embarking for the Continent 


xxix 


Chantilly 


- 


- 


338 


Emmerich 


- 


- 


26 


Chamounix - 


- . 


. 


329 


Engers 


_ 


_ 


105 


Chaud de fond 


- 


- 


297 


Sebastian 


- 


_ 


106 


Chillon, castle of 


- 


- 


308 


Entlebuch 


. 


-_ 


265 


Cleves 


- 


- 


24 


Erpel - 


. 


_ 


101 


Clermont 


. 


- 


338 


Escholzmatt 


- 


_ 


265 


Cluses 


- 


. 


327 










Coblence 


- 


- 


106 


F. 








Collin 


- 


- 


199 


Fachingen 


- 


- 


130 


Colmar 


- 


- 


227 


Fahr - 


- 


- 


104 


Cologne 


- 


- 


87 


Falkenstein - 


- 


_ 


147 


Constance 


- 


- 


237 


Fall of the Rhine 


- 


« 


235 


Cothen 


- 


- 


187 


Fares : to Rotterdam 


- 


1 


Commissioners 


- 


- 


XXX 


Cologne 


. 


_ 


21 


Creveld 


- 


_ 


25 


Cologne to Mannheim - 


94 


Creil 


- 


. 


338 


Furstenthal - 


- 


. 


116 


Czaslau 


. 


. 


199 


Frauenfield - 


- 


- 


239 










Faulhorn 


_ 


- 


277 


D. 








Ferney 


- 


- 


322 


Danube 


- 


- 


213 


Flushing 


- 


. 


34 


Darmstadt 


- 


- - 


163 


Fluelen 


_ 


_ 


268 


Deggindorf - 


- 


- 


214 


Flying bridge, description 


of 


24 


Dessau 


- 


- 


187 


Forcla Pass - 


. 


- 


334 


Devil's Bridge 


- 


" 


270 


Frankfort 


. 


_ 


156 


Delft 


- 


- 


8 


Friburg (Swiss) 


- 


- 


301 


Deutz 


- 


- 


87 


Friburg 


- 


- 


181 


Deutzchbrod - 


- 


- 


199 


Frickthal 


_ 


_ 


232 


Dettleback - 


- 


- 


216 


France 


- 


_ 


335 


Dieppe 


- 


- 


339 


Furca Pass - 


■a 


_ 


270 


Dietz 


- 


- 


131 










Diligences 


- 


- 


xxvi 


G. 








Dinan 


- 


. 


402 


Gais 


. 


_ 


242 


Distances to Capitals 


from 




Geisenheim - 


- 


. 


120 


Frankfort 


- 


- 


163 


Gelb - 


_ 


_ 


27 


Dornach 


- 


- 


231 


Geneva 


. 


- 


314 



VUl 



INDEX. — CENTRAL EUROPE. 



Gemmi Pass - 

German dinner 

Ghent 

Giesbach waterfall 

Glarus 

Goarhausen - 

Godesberg 

Goldau 

Goitres 

Goar, St 

Gorcum 

Granvilliers - 

Grindelwald glaciers 

Grimsel Pass - 

Guernsey 

Guides, Swiss 

Griitle meadow 

H. 

Hague 

Haarlem 

Halle 

Hamburg 

Hammerstein 

Handeck waterfall 

Hasli valley - 

Havre 

Heidelberg - 

Heinbach 

Heligoland - 

Heppenheim - 

Herm Island - 

Hints to pedestrians 

Hochheim 

Hofheim 

Hofwyl 

HoUenthal - 

Homburg 

Huy 

I. 

Iglau 
Ingelheim 
Interlachen - 



Jersey 

Jethou Island 
Johannisberg 

Kaiserwerth 
Kehl 



K. 



Page 

- 325 
. 88 

- 68 
. 284 
. 247 
. 113 

- 98 
. 256 
. 309 
. 113 
. 23 

- 337 

- 276 

- 272 
■ 416 

xxviii 

- 267 



9 
12 
188 
183 
102 
273 
274 
340 
165 
117 
182 
165 
416 
xxix 
145 
146 
293 
182 
147 
52 



200 
123 
279 



420 
416 
120 

27 

180 



Kesselheim - 

Kissingen 

Koningswinter 

Konigstuhl - 

Kreuznach 

Kronberg 

Kiisswacht 



Lake of Constance 

Geneva 

Zurich 

Wallenstadt - 

Thun 

Brientz 

Lucerne 

Zug 

Bienne 

Lahn, river source 

Lahnstein 

Langnau 

Landing on the Continent 

Langenschwalbach 

Laufenberg - 

Lauferbrunnen 

Lausanne 

Leipsic 

Leuk bad 

Leyden 

Liege 

Lintz 

Lintz on the Danube 

Lintb canal - 

Limberg 

Lippe, river - 

Lobith 

Loire 

Locle 

Lorch 

Louvain 

Lucerne 

Lurlyberg echo 



Luggage 

Luzarches 

Lyons 



Ma§on 
Malines 
Malo, St 
Mallenbar 
Mallepostes 



M. 



Page 
106 
210 
98 
112 
119 
146 
260 



238 

322 

252 

246 

285 

283 

265 

255 

294 

111 

111 

265 

xxvi 

132 

234 

279 

303 

189 

325 

II 

53 

101 

215 

47 

131 

26 

25 

394 

297 

116 

77 

261 

114 

xxvii 

338 

407 



406 

41 

428 

106 

xxil 



INDEX. — CENTKAL EUROPE. 



Mannheim 

Marksburg prison 

Marseilles 

Marseille 

Martigny 

Mayence 

Meyringen 

Menars 

Melun 

Meisson 

Melibrocus - 

Meuse, river 

Middleburg - 

Money 

Mouse tower 

Mont Blanc - 

Mountain, Vert 

Montreul 

Morgarten 

Morat 

Mules 

Munich 

Mulhausen 

Muhlheim 

N. 
Nafels 

Nahe, river - 
Namur 
Nassau 
Nantes 
Nancy 
Neuwied 

Neuss on the Rhine - 
Neufchatel 

Neuso on the Danube 
Niederworth - 
Nonnenwerth Island - 
Nuedorf 
Nuremberg - 
Nymegen 



O. 



Oberwesel 

Odenwald 

Offenburg 

Offenbach 

Okenfiels 

Oppenheim - 

Orleans 

Ostend 

Ouchi 



Page 
136 
112 
411 
337 
310 
122 
274 
395 
403 
192 
164 
22 
34 
ix 
117 
331 
330 
337 
255 
300 
XX vi 
222 
227 
29 



247 

118 

51 

129 

401 

413 

104 

29 

296 

216 

106 

101 

106 

211 

23 



114 
166 
181 
163 
101 
166 
393 
57 
306 



P. 

Passports 

Passau 

Pedestrians, Hints to 

Peronne 

Peterswald - 

Pfeffers, Baths of 

Pilatus Mountain 

Poitiers 

Pont d'Ain - 

Popplesdorf 

Posting laws in France 

Potsdam 

Prague 

R. 



Page 

vii 

214 

xxix 

414 

198 

244 

264 

397 

412 

97 

XX 

186 
198 



. 244 



Ragatz 

Railroads, list of - - xxv 

Rapperschwyl - - 248 

Rastadt - - - 159 

Ratisbonne - - - 212 

Refreshments on board the 

Steam-boats - - 1 

Remagen - _ . 101 

Reichenbach waterfall - 275 

Rennes - - - 402 

Rhense - - - 111 

Rhinefelden - - 232 

Rheineck - - - 102 

Rheingau - - - 121 

Rhine Fall - - - 235 

Righi Mountain - - 237 

Rhine, the source - - 21 

Rhone, the source - - 409 

Rhone valley - - 324 

Rotterdam - - - 5 

Rolandseck . t - 100 

Rorschah - - - 240 

Rouen - .. - 340 

Routes _ _ - xxiv 

Rlidesheim - - - 119 

Ruhrort - - - 26 

Ryswick - - - 8 



Saardam - - - 17 

Salzbach - - - 146 

Salzig - - - 113 

Saltzburg - - - 223 

Samer - - - 337 

Sans Souci - - - 186 

Saraing - - - 53 



INDEX. — CENTRAL EUROPE. 









Page 






Page 


Sargans 


- 


- 


246 


Travelling in Germany 


- xxiv 


Saxon Switzerland 


. 


- 


196 


in Switzerland 


- xxiv 


Saumar 


- 


. 


400 


Thun 


_ 


. 287 


Saulieu 


_ 


_ 


404 


Tirlemont 


. 


- 79 


Scheiveling - 


- 


- 


11 


Tours 


- 


- 396 


Scheldt 


. 


- 


33 


Trogden 


- 


- 242 


Schlangenbad 


- 


- 


135 


Tun of Heidelburg 


. 


- 165 


SchafFhausen 


. 


- 


235 








Schvi^albach - 


- 


. 


132 


U. 






Schwatzingen 


_ 


. 


168 


Uerdingen 


- 


- 28 


Selters 


_ 


_ 


132 


Ulm 


. 


- 230 


Serk 


- 


. 


419 


Utrecht 


. 


- J9 


Sens 


_ 


_ 


404 








Sent is 


. 


_ 


243 


V. 






Seven Mountains 


. 


- 


99 


Valenciennes 


- 


- 414 


Sinzig 


- 


- 


102 


Vevey 


- 


- 307 


Signau 


- 


- 


265 


Verviers 


- 


- 82 


Sion - 


. 


. 


324 


Vienna 


_ 


- 200 


Soden 


_ 


. 


146 


Villeneuve 


_ 


. 308 


Solothurn 


- 


- 


299 


Voyage to Jersey 


- 


- 415 


Spa - 


- 


- 


80 








Stahleck 


. 


_ 


116 


W. 






Steam Packets from 


England 


xxiv 


Wallenstadt - 


- 


- 246 


Steam Packets (Rhine) 


. 


93 


Waltuf 


. 


- 121 


Stein 


. 


- 


232 


Waldshut 


- 


- 234 


Stolzenfels - 


. 


- 


111 


Waterloo 


. 


- 50 


Staubbach waterfall 




- 


278 


Wallenstadt - 


. 


- 246 


Straubiny 


- 


- 


213 


Watermen's fares 


. 


1 


Stuttgard 


. 


- 


220 


Walcheren 


. 


- 33 


Strasbourg - 


- 


- 


223 


Weggis 


- 


- 260 


St Bernard - 


- 


. 


312 


Weisbad (Swiss) 


- 


- 243 


St Denis 


_ 


- 


337 


Weisbaden - 


- 


- 136 


St Gall 


_ 


- 


241 


Weisen-thurm 


_ 


- 105 


St Goar 


- 


- 


113 


Weisensteinbad 


- 


- 299 


St Gervais baths 


- 


- 


328 


Wesel 


. 


- 26 


St Hubertsberg 


- 


- 


192 


Wesen 


- 


- 247 


St Jakob 


- 


. 


231 


Wildbad 


- 


- 180 


St Louis 


- 


- 


228 


Winterthur - 


_ 


- 239 


St Malo 


. 


- 


428 


Worcum 


- 


- 23 


St Meurice - 


. 


- 


309 


Worms 


- 


-.- 166 


St Martin 


- 


- 


328 


Wurzburg 


- 


- 210 


Switzerland - 


- 


- 


229 


Wurzen 


- 


- 192 


T. 








Y. 






Taunus Mountains 


- 


- 


146 


Yanten 


_ 


- 26 


Tellensprung 


- 


- 


267 


Yverdun 


- 


- 297 


Termond 


. 


- 


76 








Tete, Noir ( Pass) 


- 


- 


334 


Z. 






Thames, river 


- 


. 


2 


Znaim 


._ 


. 200 


Thiel 


. 


- 


23 


Zug 


_ 


- 255 


Travelling, modes of 


- 


XX 


Zurich 


_ 


- 249 


in France 


„ 


XX 




^ 





INDEX PARIS. 



XI 



INDEX.— PARIS. 



A. 






Page 




Page 


Ecole Polytechnique 


- 379 


Abattoires - - - 


365 


Enfants trouves 


. 376 


Abelard and Heloise 


371 


Environs of Paris 


- 388 


Academie Royale, Theatre - 


363 


Exhibitions - 


- 386 


Accommodation for strangers 


343 






Arc de Triomphe de I'Etoile 


352 


F. 




Arrival in Paris 


343 


Flower markets - 351, 


365, 370 


Arsenal . - _ 


381 


Fountain Chateau d'Eau 


- 364 


Antiquitii's of Paris - 


379 


Fran9aise, Theatre - 


- 358 


Astronomical column 


360 


Friday's excursion 


- 374 


B. 

Balls 


387 


G. 

Galignani's Messenger 


- 360 


Bank of France 


359 


Garden of Plants 


- 381 


Barriere du Trone - 


367 


Garden of Tuileries - 


- 348 


Blind School 


380 


Gobelins 


- 384 


Bourse - - - 


359 


Grenier de Reserve - 


- 381 


C. 

Catacombs - - - 




Gymnase, Theatre - 


- 363 


377 


H. 




Cathedral, Notre- Dame 


371 


Halle aux Bl6s 


- 360 


Cemeteries - - - 


365 


Halle aux vins 


- 380 


Champs Elysees 


352 


Hospice de la Salpetiere 


- 384 


Champ de Mars 


353 


Hotels des Affaires des Etran- 


Chamber of Deputies 


354 


gers 


- 351 


Chaumiere - 


376 


Hotel Dieu - 


- 372 


Church Notre- Dame de Lo- 




J^otel des Invalides - 


- 353 


rette - . _ 


368 


Hotel des Monnaies - 


- 373 


Church St Etienne - 


399 


Hotels in Paris 


- 344 


Church St Eustache 


361 


Hotel de Ville 


- 370 


Church St Gervais - 


371 


Hotel des Finances - 


- 349 


Church St Jacques - 


377 






Church St Sulpice - 


374 


I. 




Church of St Thomas d'Aquin 


374 


Institute 


- 373 


Church Val de Grace 


377 


Italian Opera 


- 385 


Church of Petit Pines 


359 






Church of St German 


361 


J. 




Circles (Clubs) 


387 


Jardin Turc 


- 363 


Column July 


367 


Jews' Synagogue 


- 364 


Column Vendome 


349 






Conservatoire des Arts 


364 


L. 








Longcharap promenade 


- 352 


D. 




Luxor Obelisk 


- 352 


Deaf and Dumb Institute 


377 


Louvre gallery 


- 362 


Divine Service (English) 


387 


M 




E. 




Madeleine 


- 351 


Ecole de Medicine - 


372 


Marche aux chevaux 


- 384 


Ecole Militaire 


353 


Marche aux chiens - 


- 384 



xu 



Marche aux fleurs 
Marche des Innocents 
Marche St Martin - 
Marche aux vieux Linges 
Monday's excursion 
Mont Parnasse 
Morgue 

Museums in the Louvre 
Musee d' Artillery 

N. 
Napoleon's tomb 
Notre- Dame 

O. 

Obelisk of Luxor 
Observatoire 
Odeon Theatre 
Orphans, Hospice of- 

P. 

Palace of the Louvre 
Palais Bourbon 
Palais de 1' Institute - 
Palais des Beaux Arts 
Palais de Justice 
Palais Legion d'honneur 
Palais de Luxembourg 
Palais d'Orsay 
Palais Royal 
Palais des Thermes - 
Palais of the Tuileries 
Pantheon 
Passport office 
Pere la Chaise 
Pigeon shooting 
Place de la Bastile - 
Place du Carrousel - 
Place de la Concorde 
Place du Chatelet 
Place Dauphine 



INDEX.- 


—PARIS. 






Page 






Page 


- 370 


• 
Place Richelieu 


> 


359 


- 361 


Place Royale 


. 


368 


- 364 


Place Vendome 


- 


349 


- 364 


Place "des Victoires - 


. 


359 


- 372 


Pont des Arts 


- 


373 


- 376 


Pont Louis Philippg 


- 


371 


- 372 


Pont Neuf - 


- 


368 


- 362 


Pont Notre- Dame - 


- 


370 


- 374 


Pont de Jena 


- 


353 




Pont de la Concorde 


- 


355 




Pont Royal - 


- 


356 


- 354 


Portes St Denis and St Martin 


363 


- 371 


Post office 


. 


860 




Prefect of Police 


- 


369 


- 352 


R. 






- 377 


Royal library 


. 


359 


- 376 


% 






- 377 


S. 


, 






Sap eurs- Pomp iers 


. 


349 




Saturday's excursion 


. 


380 


- 361 


Sevres 


- 


390 


- 354 


St Cloud 


. 


390 


- 373 


St Denis 


* 


391 


- 373 


St Salpice seminary - 


- 


375 


- 370 


Sunday 


- 


387 


- 355 








' 375 


T. 






- 355 


Temple, Convent of - 


- 


364 


- 356 


Thursday's excursion 


- 


368 


- 372 


Theatres 


. 


385 


- 346 


Tuesday's excursion 


. 


356 


- 378 


Tuileries 


_ 


245 


- 369 


* 






- 365 


V. 






- 387 


"Vaudeville, Theatre - 


. 


359 


- 367 


Varietes Theatrides: - 


. 


363 


- 344 


Versailles 


.. 


388 


- 351 








- 361 


W. 






- 369 


Wednesday's excursion 


- 


362 



INDEX— ITALY. 



Abbiategrasso - - 473 

Academy of Music (Pompeii) 832 
Acqui, baths of - - 474 

Agnano, lake of - - 815 

Agno _ - - 848 

Agnolo, Gabriel, works by - 784 
Ajirippina, tomb of - - 809 

Aiquebelle - - - 451 

Aix les Bains - - 450 

Alassio _ _ - 490 

Albano (Rome) - 732, 743 

Lake of - - 744 

Albano, works by 458, 488, 508, 
636, 638, 639, 648, 686, 699, 773 
Albenga - - - 490 

Albens - - - 450 

Alberti, Leon Baptista, works 

by - - " 610 

Albv - - - 450 

Albizzola - - - 488 

Alessi Galeazzo, works by 479, 480, 
482, 484, 505, 507 
Alexandria - - - 474 

Alfieri, Count, works by 457, 458 
Alfieri, Victor, birthplace and 

house of - - 469 

monument to - 647 

Alice - - - 467 

Allegrini, works by 488, 649, 699 
Allegro Antonio — see Correggio 
Alvernia - _ > 624 

Amphitheatre (Pompeii) - 838 
Ancona - - - 612 

— to Rome — Route 31 - 615 

Andermatt - - - 446 

Annecy . - . 455 

Anseldi Andrea, works by - 481 
Antonio di Negropont, works 

by - - - 569 

Appiani, works by - 440, 506 

Aquapendente - - 522 

Aqueducts — Rome - - 726 

Naples - - 757 

— Caserta - - 851 

Arch of Clement XII (An- 
cona) _ - - 612 
— — ^ — — St Elia (Sorrento) 846 



Arch of Titus (Rome) - 653 

Trajan (Ancona) - 612 

terminating the road 

of the Simplon - 451, 510 

Areola - . - 537 

Arcugnano - - - 537 

Ariolo - - - 446 

Arena, the (Verona) - 535 

Arezzo _ - - 625 

Ariosto, birthplace of - 556 

House and relics of - 578 

Tomb of - - 577 

Arona - _ - 440 

Argua _ _ _ 576 

Ascanius, tomb of - - 743 

Asiago . _ _ 540 

Asinelli, tower of (Bologna) 579 

Assisi _ . - 627 

Asti - - - - 473 

Aventine hill (Rome) - 695 

Aversa - - - 755 

Baia - - - - 808 
Baccano - - 619, 623 

BandinelH, works by 591, 593, 683 

Barabino, Carlo, works by • 481. 
Barbieri Francesco ( Guercina 

da Centa) works by 508, 5l8 
Barbieri, Guiseppe, works by 

535, 536 

Barocchio, works by - - 612 

Basilica of St Antonio ( Padua) 541 

Constantine(Rome) 654 

St John Lateran 

(Rome) - - 661 

St Maria Maggiore 

(Bergamo) - - 526 

St Mark (Venice) 566 

St Peter (Rome) - 705 

Bassanos, the, works by 509, 526, 

529, 538, 570, 573, 638, 648, 

680, 683, 684 

Baths of Caracalla (Rome) - 454 

Diocletian - - 671 

Nero - - 808 

Lucca - - 599 

Castellamare - 839 



INDEX. — ITALY. 



Baths of Aix - - 450 

Baveno ■ - - 434 

Beaulieu . - - 494 

Beccafumi, works by 620, 621 

Bellini, the, works by 539, 569, 

670, 681 
Bellinzona - - - 447 

Bellinzona to Lugano — 

Route 88 - - 448 

Belzoni, birthplace of - 543 

Benzo Julio, works by - 48 1 

Bergamo - - 526 

Berghem, works by - - 669 

Berissaal - - - 433 

Bernini, works by - 489, 620, 

635, 647, 663, 676, 677, 678, 

685, 692, 754 
Bianca Capello - - 573 

Biella - - - 467 

Binasco _ - - 500 

Boccaccio, works by - 640, 641 , 
671, 680, 684, 687, 698, 700 
Bocco di Fiume - - 749 

Bologna - - - 578 

to Florence— Route 107 581 

to Ancona— Route 112 608 

to Ravenna — Route 113 613 

Giovanni di — see John 

of Bologna. 
Bolsena - - - 622 

Bonifacio, works by - - 538 

Bonsignori, works by - 457 

Bonvicino (Moretto), works 

by - - 529,530 

Boreo Sesia ... - 468 

Borghese palace ( Rome) - 780 
Borghetto - - - 619 

Borghetto di San Spirito - 489 
Borgo San Donnino - - 553 

Borgo Vercelli - - 469 

Borgo Vico (Como) - - 443 

Borgognone, works by - 505, 

509, 640, 648, 671, 700 
Borgomanero - - 468 

Borromean Isles - - 436 

Borromini, works by 703, 891 

Bossi, works by - 508, 509 

Both, works by - 639, 640 

Bourget, lake of - - 452 

Bozzolo - - - 549 

Bracco - - - 523 

Bramante, birthplace of - 61 1 

works by 443, 456, 505, 

546, 616, 617, 702, 704 



Branchi, works by 505, 515, 521 
Brandi Giacomo, works by - 636 
Brandizzo - - ~ 467 

Brescia _ _ - 528 

Breughel, works by 458, 508, 509, 
638, 640, 648, 686 
Bridge of Lodi - - 546 

Maddalena (Devil's 

Bridge) - - - 599 

Vega - - 536 

Brigg _ - - 431 

Brill, Paul, works by 670, 686, 697 
Bronzino, works by 639, 650, 680 
Brunellesco, works by 592, 593 

Buonarotti, Michael Angelo 

House of - 590 

Tomb of - 593 

works by 475,503,509, 



579, 587, 592, 594, 609, 642, 
667,671,672,673, 701, 710 
Buonconvento - - 621 

Byron, Lord, house of (Ra- 
venna) _ - - 615 

Caius Sallust, house of (Pom- 
peii) - - - 832 
Calabrese, works by - 680, 685 
Calcio - - - 547 
Caldiero - - - 528 
Caldiero, rock of - - 445 
Calendario, works by - 572 
Camaldoli - - - 597 
Camuccini, works by - 640 
Campagnas, the, works by - 534, 

541 571, 573 
Campi, the, works by 505,506,518. 

545, 547, 548 
Canaletti, works by 458, 638 

Candia - - - 472 

Canonica _ - - 525 

Canova, residence of - - 565 

works by - - 509 

Canossa - - - 556 

Canope - - - 730 

Cantine di Caprino - - 449 

Cantoni, Simon, works by - 483 
Canria, Michael, works by - 482 
Capitol, the ( Rome) - 641 

Capo Coroglio - - 803 

Capo Marotta - - 611 

Capri - - -848 

Capua _ . - 753 

Caravaggio _ - - 544 

Caravaggios, the, birthplace of 544 



INDEX. — ITALY. 



Caravaggios,works by 506, 508, 630, 

640. 641, 670, 685, 773, 778 

Caracalla, baths of - - 689 

Caracci, Annibal, works by 529, 

577, 635, 639, 640, 647, 648, 
649, 669, 680, 687, 703 

Caracci, Agostino 554, 637, 639, 

648, 680, 691 

Caracci, Ludovico 552, 578, 670 

Carloni, the, works by 481, 518 

Carroccio, the - - 549 

Carrara - _ . 524 

Casalbuttano - - 549 

Casale - - - 471 

Casalpusterlengo - - 546 

Cascina del Pero - - 441 

Cascalette - - - 730 

Caserta - - - 849 

Cassano - ^ - 544 

Case Bruciate - - 612 
Casolani, Alessandro, works 

by - - 518,519 

Castellamonte, works by 458, 460 

Castelli, works by - 460, 488 

Castellone - - - 751 

Castelnuovo - - - 533 

Castel Leone - - 540 

Castel Guelfo - - 553 

Castelfranco - - - 558 

Castellaraare - - - 839 

Castel St Pietro - ^ 508 

Castel Bolognese - - 508 

Castel Gandolfo - - 744 

Castle of St Elmo (Naples) 779 

Castello. lake of - - 744 

Castiglione, works by - 639 

Cathedral of Milan - - 501 

Catullus, birthplace of - 536 

residence of - 531 

Cavaltone . - - 549 

Cava Tigozzi - - 547 

Cavernago - « - 528 

Cecilia Metella, tomb of - 696 

Cenis, Mont - - 452 

Cento Camerelle - - 810 
Cercle de Eeunion (Lucca 

Baths) - - - 601 

Cereale - - - 489 

Certosa di Pavia - - 516 

Cesena _ _ _ 609 

Chalcidicum (Pompeii) - 834 

Chambery _ - - 451 

Chiavari _ _ - 523 

Cbiari « - - 545 



Chieri 
Chivasso 
Chiusi 

Cicero's villa - 
Cigliano 



- 473 

- 467 
621, 626 

- 813 

- 467 



Cignani Carlo, works by 608, 609 

Cimabue _ - . 593 

Cimier - - - 493 

Circus Maximus (Rome) - 689 

Cisterna - - - 746 

Civita Castellana - - 619 

Civita Vecchia - - 627 

to Rome — 

Route 117 - - - 628 
Civita Lavinia - - 745 
Claude Lorraine,works by 458, 638, 
639, 648, 783 
Clitumnus, the - - 617 
Climate of Italy (Introduc- 
tion) - - xxxiv 
Cloaca Maxima (Rome) - 689 
Codogna - - - 546 
Cogoleto _ . - 488 
Coire - - - 495 
Colfiorito - - - 617 
Colleoni, birthplace of - 527 

Mausoleum of - 526 

Cologna . - _ 537 

Columbus, birthplace of ~ 481 

Coliseum, the (Rome) - 657 

Como _ _ . 442 

Environs of - 443 

Lake of - 443,446 

Concas, the, works by - 652 

Contarini _ - - 542 

Contucci, reliquaries by - 480 
Cookery, see commencement 

of each Route. 

Cora - - - 745 

Cordieri, works by - 659, 665 

Corneto - _ - 623 

Corradini, works by - 790, 791 

Correggio _ - - 556 

birthplace of - 556 

works by 554, o55, 783 



Cortona, Pietro di, works by, 588, 

648, 652, 676, 684, 685, 699, 
702, 708 

Cortona - _ - 625 

Corsico - - - 473 

Corte Maggiore - - 553 

Cozzo - - - 472 

Crema - - - 546 

Cremona - i= - 547 



IT 



INDEX. — ITALY. 



Crescentino - - - 471 

Crescenzago - ^ - 525 

Crespi, Daniel, works by, 504, 506, 

508, 520 
Cruseilles - _ _ 450 

Crypto-Porticus (Pompeii) - 834 
Cuma - - - 811 

Curegio - . - 461 

Curiatii, tomb of - - 743 

Custom House (Pompeii) - 835 
Customs of the Italians (In- 
troduction) - xxxvii 

Dante, tomb of - - 614 

D'Arpino, Cav., works by, 684, 686, 

699, 780 
David, birthplace of - 527 

Del Cairo, works by 504, 505 

Del Garbo, works by - 648 

Desenzano - .. _ 531 

D'Este, villa of - - 444 

Devil's Bridge . - 599 

Diocletian, baths of - - 471 

Diomedes, villa of (Pompeii) 829 
Dogana, the (Venice) - 571 

Dog's Cave - - - 815 

Dolci, Carlo, works by - 460 

Dominichino, birthplace of - 580 

works of, 458, 509, 611, 

637, 639, 648, 659, 667, 676, 
680, 685, 686, 701, 783, 796 
Domo d'Ossola - 429, 431, 434 

Donatello, works by, 541, 542, 587, 

620 
Donizetti, birthplace of - 527 

Donizelli, birthplace of - 527 

Doria, Andrew, autographs of 483 
Dosso Dossi, works by, 636, 639, 

648 

D'Udine, G., works by 710, 711 

Durer, Albert, works by, 458, 489, 

509, 595, 639 

Dusino . - _ 473 

Ecclesiastical ceremonies 

(Rome) - - - 739 
Egeria, valley of - .. 690 
Egyptian Museum ( Rome) - 719 
Empoli - - - 607 
money reduced to 
Italian, table of (Intro- 
duction) - - - li 
Eruptions of Vesuvius - 823 
Evian - - - 430 



Faenza 

Falls of Terni 

Tivoli 



- 608 

- 618 

- 730 
638, 684 

- 611 



English 



Fancelli, works by 

Fano - - - - 

Fanzaga, Chevalier C, works 

by, 773, 776, 779, 789, 795, 

796 
Fariolo - - - 434 

Farnese palace (Rome) - 702 

Farnese theatre (Parma) - 554 
Ferrara _ _ - 577 

Ferrari Gaudenzio, works by, 440, 
443, 458, 468, 469, 505, 508 
Ferrari Georgio, works by - 482 
Ferrata Sasso, works by, 458, 508, 
610, 685, 700, 704 
Ferri, works by - - 648 

Fiesole > _ - 595 

Figino - - - 504 

Figline - - - 525 

Finale - - - 489 

Finale - - - 558 

Finelli, works by - 796, 797 
Florence - - 583, 595 

Foligno - - - 6J7 

Fondi - - - 750 

Fontanas, the, works by, 505, 526, 
635,637,661,669,703,781 
Fontebuona - - - 582 

Forli . . - ^ 609 

Forlimpopoli - - 609 

Form of agreement with Ita- 
lian coach proprietor (In- 
troduction) - - xlvi 
Fornaci - - 525 
Fortune, temple of (Rome) - 650 
Fortuna Augusta, temple of 

(Pompeii) - - 832 

Forum, the (Rome) - - 651 

Forum of Trajan (Rome) - 668 
Forum Civile (Pompeii) - 833 
Fra Bartolomeo, works by - 640 
Francia, works by, 554, 610, 638, 

648 
Fuga, Chevalier, works by, 687, 693 
Fusaro - - - 856 



Gaeta 


- 751 


Gaggiano 


- 473 


Gajola, La 


- 802 


Galileo, tomb of 


- 593 


Gallinara, isle of 


- 490 


Gallarate 


- 441 



INDEX. — ITAI^Y. 



Gambetta - - - 473 

Gambolo ... 472 
Gamodio (Henry Arler),works 

by - - 517,519 

Ganganelli, birthplace of - 610 
Garda, lake - - - 531 

Gareone - _ . 533 

Garigliano . - - 753 

Garofalo, works by, 458, 480, 499, 

577, 636, 638, 639, 640, 648, 649 
Gaston de Foix, column to - 615 

monument of 509 

Gattinara _ - - 467 
Gemignani, works by, 435, 485, 487 
Geneva, lake of - - 429 
Geneva to Milan — Route 1 - 429 
■ Turin, by Mont Cenis 

—Route 89 - - 449 

to Turin, by Annecy 

—Route 90 . - 450 

by Albeno - 450 

Genoa - - 475,488 

Genoa to Nice, by the coast 

—Route 95 - - 488 

. Milan — Route 97 497 

Lucca, by the coast 

—Route 101 - - 522 

Genoese money (Introduction) xlix 
Gensano - - - 744 

Gera - - - 546 

Gera dAdda - - 446 

Gerard, works by - - 773 

Giaraboro _ . - 567 

Giogo _ _ _ 582 

Giordano, works by, 526, 542, 621, 

671, 687, 784, 791 
Giornico _ _ _ 446 

Giorgione, works by, 538, 574, 609, 

639, 648, 669, 680 
Giotto, works by, 541, 542, 593, 

625, 683 
Glacier of Aletsch - - 431 

Kaltwasser - 433 

Gladiator, statue of the (Rome) 645 
Golden house of Nero ( Rome) 656 
Gonda - _ . 434 

Gondo, gallery of - _ 433 

Gorgonzola - _ _ 525 

Gottardo ... 448 
Gottesalli _ . _ 554 

Grappello - _ _ 544 

Gregorian Museum (Rome) 717 
Grimaldi, works by . 699, 798 
Gropiglia, works by - 569, 57 1 



Grotta Azzura ( Capri) - 848 

Grotta del Cane - - 815 

Grotto of Pausilippo - 816 

Gualtieri, G. B., works by - 518 

Guarini, house of - - 578 

Guercino, works by, 438, 5!0, 552, 

554, 577, 609, 6l0, 613, 616, 

636, 638, 639, 648, 667, 669, 

683, 686, 699, 703 

Guido, birthplace of - 580 

works by, 458, 508, 509, 538, 

579, 609, 614, 616, 626, 648, 

659, 665, 669, 685, 700, 701, 

703, 793, 796 

Guido Reni, works by, 508, 636, 

659, 672, 793 

Guocchi, works by - - 504 

Habitation of the Vestals 

(Pompeii) - - 468 

Haute Combe, monastery of 450 

Herculaneum - - 825 

H ercules, temple of ( Pompeii) 835 

Holbein, works by - 639, 699 

Horses, bronze (Venice) - 567 

Imola - - - 608 

Incisa - _ _ 624 
Innocenzo d'Imola, works 

by - - - 680, 7G0 

Intra - - - 438 

Iron Crown (Milan) - 509 

Ischia - _ _ 852 

Isella - - 433,434 

Isis, temple of (Pompeii") -• 835 

Isola Bella (Borromean Isles) 436 

Madre (ditto) - 437 

della Scala - - 537 

Italy (Introduction) - vii 
Climate of (ditto) 



XXXIV 



Italian iUvers (ditto) 

Mountains (ditto) xxxv 

Itri - - - 751 

Jacomone, works by - 536, 609 
John of Bologna (tomb of) 593 
works by, 589, 592, 

595,596,616 
Juliet's Tomb - - 536 

Juvarra, works by 457, 458, 459, 

460, 466, 550 

Katwasser, glacier of - 433 

KaufTmann Angelica, works by 526 



VI 



INDEX. — ITALY. 



La Cattolica - - 611 

Lake of Avernus - - 807 

Bourget - - 450 

Como - - 443 

. Garda - - 531 

Geneva - - 429 

D'Iseo - - 527 

Lucrinus - - 807 

Maggiore - - . 435 

Lago Maggiore to Lago 

Como, by Varese — 

Eoute86 - - 441 

La Gazola - - - 802 

La Muzza (Canal) - - 545 

La Ragione (Padua) - 540 

Landi, works by - - 640 
Lanfranc, works by, 457, 635, 638, 

648, 676, 680, 685, 686, 703, 
780 
Language of the Italians (In- 
troduction) - xxxviii 

Lans le Bourg - - 452 

Lastra _ . - 507 

Laurentium - - 745 

Lavagna - • r "523 

Laveno _ _ - 438 

Lavenza _ - - 524 

Lavinium - - - 745 

Leaning Tower (Pisa) - 596 

Lebrun, works by - - 671 

Legnogo - - - 551 
Leghorn - - 605,607 

to Sienne— Route 1 10 607 

Leopardo Alessandro, works 

by - - 570,373 

Lerici _ _ - 523 

Leuk - - - 430 

Le Vene - - - 617 

Linterna - - - 812 
Lippi, A. and P., works by, 617, 677 

Livy, birthplace of - - 543 

Loano _ - . 489 

Locarno - - - 447 

Road from Bellinzona to 447 

Lodi . - . 545 
Lombardo- Venetian Money 

(Introduction) - xlix 
Lombardos, the, works by, 541, 569, 
571, 574, 616 

Lonato . - - 531 

Loreto _ - - 615 

Lucca - - - 597 

to the Baths of Lucca — 

Route 109 - - 598 



Lucca to Sienne — Route 110 598 

Baths of - - 599 

Lucerne to Bellinzona — 

Route 87 - ^ 446 

Ludoviso, works by - 640 

Lugano _ - - 448 

Lugliano - - - 602 

Luino - - - 439 
Luino Bernardino, birthplace 

of - - - 439 

works by 443, 

460,508,515 

Luti, works by - - 648 

Macerata - - - 516 

Machiavelli, monument of - 593 
Madalena - - - 576 

Maderno, works by 697, 702, 705 
Madonno d'Oropa - - 468 

Maecenas, villa of - - 731 

Magadino _ - - 448 

Maganza, works by - 538, 539 

Magenta - - - 471 

Maini, works by - 661, 685 

Maleo - - - 546 

Mammertine Prison (Rome) 650 
Manfrini Palace (Venice) - 574 
Mangone Fabio, works by 507, 508 
Manner of travelling in Italy 

(Introduction) - - xli 

Mantegna, birthplace of - 539 

works by, 538, 539, 542, 

550, 577 
Mantua - - . 549 

Map of the World, by Fra 

Mauro (Venice) - 572 

Maratta Carlo, house of - 744 

works by, 609, 620, 

635, 636, 640, 650, 672, 685 
Marble Quarries of Carrara 524 
Marchesi, works by 470, 510 

Marco da Campione, works 

by - - 517,519 

Marco Polo, residence of - 575 
Marengo, battle of - - 474 

Margaritone, works by 613, 625 
Masaniello - - 761 

Massa - - - 524 

Massa - - - 847 

Massimo, Chev., works by, 779, 780, 

789, 796 
Mazaglia . - - 556 

Meillerie, rocks of - - 430 

Mendrisio - ■ - 549 



INDEX. — ITALY. 



Mengs, works by - - 664 

Mentone - - - 490 

Mergellina, shore of - 718 

Metastasio, birthplace of - 627 
Michael Angelo — see Buona- 

rotti. 
Milan - - 500,514 

Excursions from - 514 

to Turin by Vercelli — 



Route 98 

by Alexan- 

drie — Route 99 

— to Genoa — Route 100 - 

— to Venice, through Ber- 
gamo, Brescia, and Ve- 
rona — Route 102 

— by Chiari, Brescia, and 
Verona — Route 103 

— by Cremona and Man- 
tua — Route 104 

— to Bologna, by Pla- 
cenza, Parma, and Mo- 
dena — Route 105 



522 

522 
522 



525 
544 



545 



- 551 

Milegnano . - _ 545 
Military Road of Napoleon 

(Evian) - - 430 
Mirandola - - - 558 
Miseno Cape - - 709 
Modena - - - 556 
Modern Capital (Rome) - 642 
Mola, works by - 648, 649 
Moladi Gaeta - - 751 
Monaco - - - 490 
Monselice - _ . 575 
Mont Bre - - - 448 
Monte Calvo (Nice) - 494 
Mont Cenis - - 452 
Monte di Fo - - 582 
Monte Lupo - - 607 
Montalto, works by - 504, 515 
Montefiascone - - 622 
Mcnteroni - - - 435 
Monterosi - 519, 523 
Montebello - - 537 
Montevarchi - - 525 
Montcalier - - - 473 
Monten Dipo - - 471 
Monti, works by 470, 510, 529, 545 
Montmeillan - - 451 
Monza - - - 514 
Mortara - - . 472 
Mountains of Italy (Introduc- 
tion) - - XXXV 
Mozzanigo - - . 545 



Muranesi, the, works by - 569 
Muratori, birthplace of - 558 

Murillo, works by - 639, 700 

Muziano, works by 640, 645, 684, 

704 
Naples - - 756, 800 

Environs of - 801 

to Portici, Vesuvius, 

and Herculaneum — 

Route 120 - - 819 

to Pompeii— Route 121 828 

to Sorrento Capri and 



Amalfi— Route 122 
— to Caserta and Capua 
—Route 123 - 



839 

849 
618 



Narni 

Neapolitan money (Introduc- 
tion) - - - 1 
Nemi _ - - 745 
Nervi - - - 522 
Nice - - 490,495 
Nicholas V, birthplace of - 524 
Nicolini, works by - 774, 785 
Nisida - - - 803 
Nocera - - - 819 
Noli - - - 489 
Nonantola - - - 558 
Notti Gherardo delle, works 

by - 639, 640, 681 

Novara _ . - 469 

Nuvolone, works by 440, 470, 504, 

521 

Oil and wine shop (Pompeii) 831 
Omodeo, G. A., works by 517, 519 
Orfengo - _ - 469 

Ossaja - - _ 626 

Otricoli - - - 618 



Padovano, II - - 

Padua - - . 

Psecile (Rome) 

Palaces — Berromean - 

Cassar's (Rome) 

• Doria (Genoa) 

Ducal (Genoa) 

Ducal (Parma) 

March eseSerra( Ge- 
noa) 



Marchese Pallvai- 
cini (Genoa) 

Manfrini (Venice) - 

The King's (Turin) 

The T (Mantua) - 



640 
540 
730 
436 
656 
483 
483 
554 

482 

484 
568 
458 
550 



vm 



INDEX — ITALY. 



Pala d'Oro (Venice) - - 569 

Palazi, works by - 461,470 

Palatine hill ( Rome) - 453 

Palazzola - _ _ 528 

Palestrina - - - 731 

Palladio, monument to - 538 

works by, 529, 530, 538, 

570 
Pallanza . _ . 438 

Pallavicino, Lo Stato - 552 

Palma II Vecchio, birthplace 

of . - - 527 

Palmas, the, works by, 508, 542, 573, 
636, 648, 649, 672, 680 
Panfilo - - - 405 

Pansa, house of ( Pompeii) - 832 
Pantheon ( Rome) - - 681 

( Pompeii) - 833 

Parma - . . 553 

Parmegiano (Francesco Maz- 

zuola) works by, 554, 649, 669 
Parmesan cheese - - 546 

Passports— see commencement 

of each Route. 
Pasta, Madame, villa of (Co- 
mo) - - . 445 
Pausilippo - - „ 816 
Payia - - - 497 
Pellegrini, works by, 457, 470, 498, 
499, 509, 518 
Peltrengo - - - 469 
Perlasca (Como) - - 445 
Perone - . _ 520 
Perugia - - - 626 
Perugino, works by, 521, 612. 626, 
6:39, 640, 648, 649, 669, 680, 
710 
Peruzzi Balthasar, works by, 680, 
684,685,700, 701 
Pesaro - - -611 
Pesaro, Nicola di, works by 646 
Peschiera - - . 533 
Petrarch, birthplace of - 625 

death of - - 576 

Piadena - _ . 549 

Pianoro - - _ 532 

Piedmontese money (Introduc- 
tion) - > . xllX 
Piermarini, works by 506, 507 
Pietra - » . 439 
Pietra Mala - - 582 
Pietra Santa - - 524 
Pineta, the (Ravenna) - 615 
Pinturicchio, works by, 635, 645, 662 



Piombo, Sebastian del, works 

by 635, 639, 699, 701 

Piperno - - . 746 

Pisa - - - 596 

Pisanio, Nicolas, works by 541, 

568, 571 
Piscina Mirabile 802, 810 

Pitti palace (Florence) - 588 

Pizzighettone - - 547 

Placenza - - _ 552 

Poirino . - „ 473 

Polenta . - . 6^9 

Pomarancio, works by, 659, 662, 
666, 669, 672 
Pompeii . - _ 828 

Ponderarium (Pompeii) - 831 

Ponteal Serraglio - - 599 

Ponte Centino - - 621 

Ponte Maggiore - - 749 

Ponte Treso - - - 44^ 

Pontedera - - _ qqq 

Pontine Marshes - - 746 

Pordenone, works by, 548, 552, 567, 

680 
Portici - - - 819 

Porta, Giacomo della, works by, 666, 

687, 707 
Posilippo - ^ - - 801 

Post horses, price of, in the 
Italian States (Introduc- 
tion) - _ - xliv 
Post offices — see commence- 
ment of each Route. 
Porto Maurizio - - 490 
Porto Venere - - 523 
Potter, Paul, works by - 458 
Poussins, the, works by, 458, 637, 
638, 639, 640, 648, 653, 664, 669 
Pozzuoli - - - 5Ul 
Prceneste . - _ 731 
Prato - - - 488 
Pratulino - _ _ 582 
Procida - - _ 852 
Provaccini, the, works by, 504, 505, 
509,515,518,521,526 
Public stoves and baths (Pom- 
peii) - - - 832 
Provisions and delicacies — see 
termination of each Route. 

Quarini Cardinal - - 529 

Quaro _ - . 556 

Queirolo, works by - 790, 791 

Quintin Matsys, works by . 640 



INDEX. 1TAI.T- 



IX 



Quirinal, the ( Rome) 



666 



Radicofani _ - - 621 

Rapallo - - - 523 

Raphael, birthplace of - 551 

residence of - 682 

works by, 458, 480, 508, 

. 554, 616, 617, 626, 635, 638, 
680, 684, 710, 773, 783 
Ravenna . . _ 613 

Recco - - - 523 

Recanati - - - 616 

Redeemer, church of the, 

(Venice) - - 570 

Reggio - . . 555 

Religion of the Italians ( Intro- 
duction) - xxxix 
Rembrandt, works by - 458 
Resina . - . 327 
Rho . . .441 
Riddes - - - 430 
Rienzi, house of - . 696 
Rimini - - . 610 
Rivers of Italy ( Introduction) xxxiv 
Rivoii . . - 537 
Romanelli, works by, 648, 650, 672 
Romanini, works by - - 529 
Roman money (Introduction) 1 
Romano, Julio, residence of 551 

tomb of - 550 

works by, 458, 472, 

550, 616, 647, 649, 660, 680, 
700, 783 
Romagnano - - - 467 

Rome . - 630,741 

Environs of - - 729 

in eight days - . 632 

to Naples, by Terracina 

— Route 118 - - 742 

Routes : 

84. Geneva to Milan 

85. Sesto to Milan 

86. Lago Maggiore to Lago 

Como by Varese 

87. Lucerne to Bellinzonia 

88. Bellinzona to Lugano 

89. Geneva to Turin by Mont 
Cenis - - 449 

by An- 

necy 

90. 

9). Turin to 



429 
441 

441 
446 
448 



tinara 



by Albens 

Arona by Gat- 



92. 



Milan by Novara 



449 
450 

467 
469 



93. Turin to Milan by Casale 471 

94. Genoa by Alex- 

andrie and Novi - - 473 

95. Genoa to Nice by the 

Coast - - - 522 

96 Switzerland to Milan, by 

the Splugen - - 495 

97. Genoa to Milan - 497 

98. 99, 100, 101 - - 522 
102. Milan to Venice by Ber- 
gamo, Brescia, and Ve- 
rona - - - 525 

103. by Chiari, 

Brescia, and Verona - 544 

104. by Cre- 
mona and Mantua - 545 

105. Bologna, by 

Placenza, Parma, and Mo- 
dena _ - - 551 

106. Venice to Bologna, by 
Ferrara . - - 575 

107. Bologna to Florence - 581 

108. Florence to Pisa and Leg- 
horn ... 595 

109. Lucca to the baths of 
Lucca - - - 598 

110. Lucca to Sienne - 607 
— Leghorn to Sienne - 607 

111. Florence to Leghorn by 
Empoli and Pontedera - 607 

112. Bologna to Ancona - 608 

113. Ravenna - 613 

114. Ancona to Rome - 615 

115. Florence to Rome by 
Sienne - - - 619 

116. . by 

Perugia and Foligno - 624 

117. Civita Vecchia to Rome 628 

118. Rome to Naples by Ter- 
racina _ - - 742 

1 1 9. Rome to Naples by Piperno 742 

120. Naples to Portici, Vesu- 
vius, and Herculaneura - 819 

121. Pompeii - b28 

122. Sorrento,Capri, 

and Araalfi - - 839 

123. — Casertaand Ca- 
pua - - - 849 

Rosa, Salvator, tomb of - 672 
works by, 508, 636, 

637, 638, 639, 653, 669, 700, 704 
Royal Academy degli Studi 

(Naples) - - 781 
Gallery (Florence) - 590 



INDEX.— ITALY. 



Rubens, works by, 639, 648, 669, 

680, 702 

Rubicon, the - - 610 

Rubiera ... 556 

Rubini, birthplace of - 527 

Sabatelli, works by 470, 624, 625 
Sacchi, the, works by, 517, 518, 520, 
521, 610, 626, 676, 702, 707 
Salasco - - -4-29 

Salo - - - 533 

Salviati, works by, 567, 570, 635, 703 
Samoggia - - - 559 

San Marino - - 610 

Santa Maria Castello - 846 

St Ambrogio - - 558 

St Andre (Nice) - - 493 

St Charles Borromeo,birthplace 

of - - 440 

■ Colossal statue of 440 

San Carlo, theatre of (Naples) 773 
St Francis of Assisi - 627 

St Gingoux - » - 430 

St Gothard, pass of the - 446 

St Giovanni - - 625 

St Hospice (Nice) - - 495 

St Ilario - - - 555 

St Icano de Maurienne - 451 

St Julian, plain of - - 474 

St John and St Paul, church 

of (Venice) - - 570 

St John Lateran (Rome) - 661 
St Martin d'Albano - 522 

St Maurizio - - 556 

St Mary of Safety, church of 

(Venice) - - 570 

St Michel - - - 451 

St Lorenzo Nuovo - - 622 

St Peter's (Rome) - - 705 

St Pietro, church of (Venice) 569 
St Pietro all' Olmo - 471 

St Quirico - - - 621 

St Romano - - - 608 

StRemo - - - 490 

St Zachary , church of ( Venice) 569 
Santa Brigita - - 856 

Santa C^sa ( Loreto) - - 615 

Santa Croce (Florence) - 593 

Sanmicheli, works by, 529, 530, 538 
Sansovinos, the, works by, 529, 535, 
541, 573, 616, 635, 683 
Santhia . . . 467 

Sarto, Andreo del, works by, 509, 

554, 593, 596, 616, 638, 681 



Saraceni, works by - 681^ 

Sarzana _ - _ 

Sassuola - - - 

Savona - _ _ 
Scandiano 

Scaramuccia, works b>f^ 504, 

Scarcellino, works bv •^•■";^ ^48, 
Scipione Gaetano, - 



685 
593 
558 
488 
556 
626 
G49 

«je4 
690 



Scipios, tomb of the 
Sedriono - - ., ^ ' 
Season for travelleic ^^ introduc- 
tion) .. - _ xlii 
Semini, the works by - 482 
Senatorial palace (Rome) - 643 
Seravalle - - - 617 
Sermione _ - - 531 
Sermoneta - - .. 646 
Sesto to Milan — ^Route 85 - 441 
Sesto Calende - - 440 
Sestri _ _ _ 525 
Sestri di Ponenti - - 488 
Sette Commune - - 539 
Settimo - - - 467 
Sforresca - - -472 
Sicilian Vespers - - 852 
Sienne _ _ - 620 
Sierre ... 430 
Simplon, road of the - 429 

village of - - 433 

Sinigaglia . - - 612 

Sion - - - 430 

Sistine Chapel TRome) - 710 

Sizze - - - 746 
Soil of Italy (Introduction) xxxiv 
Solari, works by - 470,517 

Solfatara, the - - 813 

Solfatara, bridge - - 7"29 
Solimene, works by 754, 793, 796 

Soma - - - 441 

Sorrento _ _ . 839 

Environs of - - 345 

toAmaifi .. - 847 

Soncino - _ - 548 

Spagnoletto, works by, 456, 640, 
680, 780, 795, 798, 799 

Spezzia _ - - 523 

Spilamberto - - - 558 

Splugen, the - - 496 

Spoleto - - - 617 

Spotorno ... 489 

Stresa - - - 439 

Stuarts, tombs of the - 708 

Susa - - - 453 



INDEX. — ITALY. 



XI 



Switzerland to Milan by the 

Splugen— Eoute 96 - 495 

Taglioni, Mdlle, vill a of ( Com o ) 445 

Tasso Bernardo, birthplace of 627 

burial place of 550 

Tasso Torquato, birthplace of 843 

prison of - 578 

Teniers, works by - 458, 640 

Tempestas, the, works by, 458, 639 

Terni - - - 618 

Terracina - _ _ 749 

Theatres— San Carlo (Naples) 773 

Alia Scala (Milan) 511 

Farnese (Parma) - 554 

Eoyal ( Turin) - 461 

Comic (Pompeii) - 836 

Tragic ( Pompeii) - 837 

Thermopolium ( Pompeii) • 831 

Thonon - - - 430 
Thorwaldsen, works by 470, 508 

Thrasimene, lake of - - 626 
Tiepolo, works by 505, 526, 573 
Tintorettos, the, works by, 458, 508 

Titian, burial place of - 571 

works by, 458, 508, 509, 529 

Tivoli - - - 730 

Tolentino ~ - - 616 

Torazzo, tower of - - 548 

Torno - - - 445 

Torre de' Tre Ponti - - 746 

Torre del Margano - - 499 

Torricelli, birthplace of - 609 

Tourtemagne - - 431 
Trade of Italy (Introduction) xxxix 

Tree ate - - - 471 

Trespiano - . ^ 583 

Treviglio - - _ 544 

Trimulzio, epitaph of - 506 

Trino - - - 471 

Truffles of Piedmont - 463 

Truffarello - - - 473 
Tunny Fishery at St Hospice 

(Nice) - - 495 
Turin - - 429,465 

Environs of - - 466 

to Arona by Gattinara 

—Eoute 91 - 467 
to Milan by Novara — 

Eoute 92 - - 469 

to Milan by Casale— 

Eoute 93 - - 471 

Genoa by Alexandria 

and Novi— Eoute 94 473 



Tuscany, frontier of - - 582 

Tuscan money (Introduction) 1 

University of Padua - 542 

Urbino - - - 611 

Vado - - - 489 

Vaga, Pierindel, works by, 483, 661, 

710 
Val Levantina - - 446 

Vallombrosa - - 624 

Van Dyk, works by, 458, 482, 554 
Vanvitelli, works by, 648, 672, 683, 
700, 783, 784, 799, 849, 851 
Vaprio _ _ - 525 

Varallo - . _ 469 

Varese - _ _ 441 

Varigotti - - _ 489 

Varragio - - - 488 

Vasari, works by, 590, 591, 606, 625. 
648,687,703.710,795 
Vatican, the - - 709 

Vegevano - - - 472 

Veil . _ - 733 

Veja, bridge of - - 536 

Velasquez, works by, 639, 648, 700 
Velletri .. - . 745 

Venice - - 559,575 

in four days - 566 

to Bologna by Ferrara 575 

Venus di Medici - - 590 
Vercelli . . ^ 469 
Verona - - 533, 536 
Environs of - - 536 



Veronese, Paul, birthplace of 536 

works by, 508, 529 

Verrua - - - 471 

Vesuvius - _ . 820 

Vetturini, the (Introduction) xliii 
Viaduct (Genoa) - - 485 

Via Appia - - - 742 

— Emilia - 552, 553, 557, 578 

— Flamina - - 617,619 

— Sacra (Eome) - - 653 
Vicenza - - 537, 540 
Viege - - - 431 
Vignola ... 553 
Vi-inole, works by, 558, 640, 694 
Villa Albani (Eome) - 674 
Borghese (Eome) - 678 

dei Bagni (Lucca Baths) 601 

Franca - 490, 494 

Novi d'Asti - - 473 

Tanzi (Como) - 445 



Xll 



INDEX. — ITALY. 



Vinci, Leonardo da, works by, 504, 

508, 509, 638, 640, 703 

Virgil, birthplace of - 551 

school of - - 802 

tomb of - - 817 

Vismara - _ - 504 

Viterbo - - - 623 

Vitozzi, works by - - 457 

Vitruvius, birthplace of - 536 

Vittorias, the, works by, 539, 569, 

570, 681 
Vivaj di Vedio Polleone - 802 



Vivarinis, the works by 570, 571 
Vogogno - - . 434 

Volterras, the, works by, 647, 677, 
698, 699. 701 
Voltri - - 4b8 

Wines of Italy (Inuod action) xxxi- 
Wouvermans, wcvks by - 458 

Zuccari, the woiks bv, 653, 687, 

68a 708, 710 

Zuccatos, the wcri.s b) 567, 570 



LIST OF DUTIES 

Payable in London on Works of Art, Curiosities, &c., from the 

Continent, according to the New Tariff, June 26th, 1846. 

TTiere is an addition of 5 per cent, on tliose Dttties nat aUered hy the New Tariff. 

THE FOLLOWING ARE ALL FREE OF DUTY. 



Cattle, and all Living Animals. 
Agates and Cornelians, rto^ being 

set nor cut. 
Bronze Works of Art. 
Bullion, Coins and Medals of all 

kinds, and battered Plate. 
Casts of Busts, Statues, or Figures. 
Cotton Manufactures, not being 

articles wholly or in part made up. 
Diamonds and other Precious Stones, 

not set. 
Flower Roots. 
Furs and Skins, not made up. 
Linen Manufactures, not being arti- 
cles wholly or in part made up. 
Lay Figures belonging to British 

Artists, intended for their own use. 
'Magna Grecia Ware, and Antique 

Earthern Vases, &c. 

ON THE FOLLOWING THE DUTY 

Agates, or Comeleans, cut, manu- 1 

factured, or set. | 

Beads, Coral, Mock Pearl and others. ' 
Brass and Bronze Manufactures, | 

not being works of Art, such as { 

Inkstands, Candelabra, and Arti- j 

cles of Furniture. 
Brocade of Gold and Silver. 
Carriages of all sorts. 
Cashmere Shawls, and other Arti- 
cles and Manufactures of Goat's 

Wool. 
Catlings (Violin, Harp Strings, 

&c.) whetherplain or silver Strings. 
China, or Porcelain Ware, painted 

or plain, gilt or ornamented^ and 

Earthenware. 
Clocks and Watches (must have 

Maker's name, both on face and 

on works). 
Colours for Painters, if manufac- 
tured, and Crayons. 
Copper Plates engraved, and 

Copper Manufactures. 
Cotton ^^rticles, wholly or in part 

made up. 

Plate, Gold, Silver, gilt, or ungilt, in addition to 10 per cent., is liable to 
l*?. 6d. per oz. Stamp Duty. 



Manuscripts. 

Maps and Charts, or parts thereof, 
plain or coloured. 

Mineral Water. 

Models of Cork and Wood . 

Olive Oil. 

Plants and Trees, alive. 

Pictures, Sketches, Drawings, or 
Sculpture, on a declaration by the 
Proprietor (being a British Sub- 
ject) that they are of his or her 
performance, and not intended for 
sale. 

Seeds, Garden, Forest, &c. 

Specimens of Natural History, 
Minerals, Fossils, and Ores. 

Sulphur Impressions or Casts. 

Telescopes. 

Vases, Ancient,notof Stone or Wood 

IS 10 PER CENT. AD VALOREM. 

Egyptian Antiquities, Nubian 

Spears, <fec. 
Frames for Pictures, <fec. 
Furniture 

Furs and Skins, all Articles made up 
Japanned and Lacquered Ware. 
Jewellery. 
Lace, viz. — Thread Lace, also Lace 

made by the hand, commonly called 

Cushion or Pillow, Lace, whether 

of Linen, Cotton, or Silken Thread. 
Linen Articles, wholly or in part 

made up. 
Mosaic Work, small Ornaments for 

Jewellery. 
Musical Instruments. 
Perfumery. 
ScAGLiOLA Tables 
Spa Ware. 

Steel and Iron Manufactures. 
Tiles. 
Toys. 
Turnery. 
Woollen Articles, wholly or in 

part made up. 



£ s. 


d. 


3 








2 


1 10 


4 


1 

















6 








14 








7 








4 


6 


5 











9 








3 






878 

LIST OF DUTIES (Continued). 

Alabaster, Sculpture of the cwt. 

Anchovies the lb. 

Arquebusade Water (for the Bottles, see Wine) . . the gal. 

Books, of Editions printed prior to 1801 the cwt. 

,, in or since 1801, in Foreign Living 

Languages ditto 2 J 

,, in the Dead Languages, or in the 

English Language, printed out of 

England in or since 1801 ditto 5 

(N.B. Pirated Editions of English Works, of which 
the Copyright exists in England, totally prohibited 
since 1st April, 1843.) 

Books, English, printed in England (unless declared 
that no Excise Drawback was received on Expor- 
tation.) the lb. 

Boots, Ladies' untrimmed the doz. pair 

,, Men's ditto ditto 

Shoes, ditto ditto ditto 

,, Ladies ditto ditto 

Cameos for every £ 100 value 

Cigars and Tobacco, manufactured (3 lbs. only al- 
lowed for passenger's baggage) the lb. 

Tobacco, unmanufactured ditto 

(N.B. Unmanufactured Tobacco cannot be imported 
in less Quantity than 300 lbs., or Cigars 100 lbs. in a 
Package ; but small quantities are admitted for Private 
Use on declaration and payment of a Fine of Is. 6d. per 
lb. in addition to the Duty.) 

Coffee, Mocha, and other Foreign Coffee the lb. 

,, From British Possessions ditto 

Coins, of Copper the cwt. 

Confectionary, Sweetmeats and Succades the lb. 

Cordials and Liqueurs (for Bottles, see Wine) .... the gal. 

Eau de Cologne, in Flasks the flask 

(N.B. If other than the ordinary flasks 30s. 4d. the 
Gallon and the Bottle Duty.) 

Embroidery and Needlework for every £100 value 

Flowers, Artificial, of Silk ditto 

Glass, Flint or Cut, coloured and Fancy Ornamental 

Glass, of whatever kind (after the 5th October, 1846) the lb. 
Glass, White Flint Bottles, not cut or ornamented . . ditto 
„ Wine Glasses, Tumblers, f>nd all other White 

Flint-Glass Goods not cut or ornamented . . the lb. 
Gloves, Leather (not less than 100 dozen pairs can be 

imported in one package) the doz pair 

Maccaroni and Vermicelli the lb. 

Marble, manufactured the cwt. 

Mosaic Work and Sculptured Stone the ton 

Naples Soap the cwt, 

Olives the gal. 

Paintings on Glass, or Figured Glass the superficial foot 









6 








4 





10 











6 


1 


10 


4 





1 





20 








25 














4 








1 








2 





3 


6 








1 





3 








10 





1 











2 








1 


G 



879 

LIST OF DUTIES (Continued). 

£ s. <U 
Paper-hangings, Flock Paper, and Paper printed, 

painted, or stained the square yard 2 

Pictures each 10 

,, and further the square foot 10 

,, being 200 square feet and upwards each 10 

Prints and Drawings, plain or coloured, single .... ditto 001 

,, bound or sewn the doz. 3 

Sausages the lb. 1 

Silk, Millinery, Turbans or Caps each 3 t> 

,, ,, Hats or Bonnets ditto 7 

,, ,, Dresses ditto 1 10 

5, Hangings, and other Manufactures of Silk ; for 

every £100 value 15 

„ Velvets, plain or figured . ." the lb. 9 

,, ,, Articles thereof ditto 10 

Stone from Malta the ton 10 

Tea the lb. 2 1 

Wine in Casks, all except Cape "Wine the gal. 056 

,, in Bottles, „ ditto 5 6 

,, and further on the Bottles the cwt. 16 

Spirits in Casks (no Cask can be imported of less con- 
tents than Twenty Gallons) the gal. 15 

Spirits in Bottles (the additional Duty on the Bottles, as on Wine Bottles.) 



Thomas Hariui.D, Trintrr, Silver S;reet, Falcwi Square, London. 



COGHLA^'S EUROPEAN ADVERTISER. 

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COGHLAN'S EUROPEAN TOURIST through 

Belgium, Holland, the Rhine, Germany, Switzerland, Italy, and France ; 
including a description of Paris, the Channel Islands, <fec., with a map 
of the European railways, and a panorama of the Rhine. Corrected to 
the present time, in 1 volume, post 8vo., price 22s. bound. 

OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 

" Mr. Coghlan was, we believe, one of the earliest writers of conti- 
nental ' Guides,' at a time when Mr. Murray's ' Hand Books' were 
unknown. The book before us is compressed from several of his former 
works, and is adapted to the tourist through Belgium, Holland, the 
Rhine, Germany, Switzerland, and France. A great deal of informa- 
tion is put into the compass of one pocket volume, and the book cannot 
be otherwise than useful to travellers. A new map of Europe, with all 
the railways, both open and proposed, is a valuable addition to it." — 
The Examiner. 



CENTRAL EUROPE ADVERTISER. 



" A volume, under the title of the '■ Hand-Book for Central Eurci,€, f>i' 
Oruide for Tourists,' from the pen of Mr. Coghlan, celebrated for his 
jruides to London, Paris, and elsewhere, has just come forth, and v^iLlbe 
found an almost indispensable companion to travellers. Every p0&^ible 
useful information, calculated to relieve the tourist from all difficulcipa in 
his progt-ess, whether at the custom house or in modes of ' gettin;> 'ju.,' 
is here accurately concentrated; and combined with this is a gr' ■ 
varie.y )f information connected with the peculiarities and advarr ^? 
of each place described." — Bell's Life in London and Sporting 
ride. 

A. careful inspection of these volumes enables us to say, that the 
■.i.tinental tourist will find these Guides as agreeably written as thgy are 
usefully compiled. The Introduction embodies the mode of obtainino: 
the passports, values of the various currencies, methods of trav^il].^g 
customs duties, and list of continental steam packets and railroads 

'< We doubt not that these Hand Books will rvm with railroad ceMeriLj 
into another edition. A clear, distinct map is also presented by 
Mr. Coghlan, denoting the march of the iron age in railways and steam- 
boats, which is a most useful appendage to what we strongly recomaien.t 
to old travellers and new aspirants to locomotion, as a capital 
mecum.' " — The Era. 

'• These appear to us to be the most useful and cheap books thai"; a 
traveller, ignorant of the usages of the continent, can possess ; they 
display very great application in a collection of every species of ir form- 
ation, and in the description of every object worthy of notice, that may 
be useful or attractive to persons visiting the continent. Attaclu d are 
tables of the departures of different conveyances, with their charges 
affixed ; so that every imposition may be avoided, and a thorough know- 
ledge of expenses obtained— a thing so essential to the economic^! and 
uninitiated traveller.^ ' — jf^he Weekly Dispatch. 

Criticisms from numerous other publications could be given, if v 
space, 

Persons Visiting the Continent may save Foicr Pounds^ Six Shi '/., '?:.[/.-•. 
and Sixpence, by purchasing Coghlan' s Continental Guide Bo- ii\:. 



Cost of COGHLAN^S Guides :— 

£ s. d. 
CENTRAL EUEOPE.— 

Containing : — 
Belgium and Holland" 
Germany (North and 

South) . 
France,includingParis ^0 12 
Switzerland 
Jersey and Guernsey, 

onevoi.s :;:::::• 

Italy (North, Central 1 

and Southern) one 1 12 
vol. . . J 



The European Tourist "i 
comprises the above 1 1 2 
bound in one . J 

(EUROPEAN TOURIST.) 



Cost of other Guides : — 

£. 
Murray's Northern Ger- 
many . . .0 

Southern ditto . 

Switzerland . 

— — France . . 

Northern Italy . Q 

Central Italy . 

Starkie's Southern Italy 
Galignani's Paris . Q 

Inglise's Jersey and 



15 



Guernsey 



a 



£5 



/', 



CENTRAL EUROPE ADVERTISER. 



Just Published^ with portrait ^ price 35. Qd. 

V. 

A MEMOIR of the Rev. JOHN ELIAS, of 

ANGLESEY, by the Eev. E. Morgan, A.M., Vicar of Sy^ton ; with axi 
iBfcyoductory Essay, by the Rev. J. K. Foster. 

' ^ 1 never heard Ellas without looking upon him as an ambassador sent 
from God. E thought of the Apostle Paul in lisienlngto him, and 
Ivicked upon him as equal to Demosthenes."— J^OMe^, Teijid. 

*■ The greatest preacher in Europe." — Hovjell, Long Acre, 

''Every muscle was in action, every movement 'bat he made was 
graci?ful and highly oratorical ; every motion was an out .yard sign of the 
inward working of his soul, and corresponded with his mind. — Dr. Owen 
Pagh. 

'■" The greatest preacher in Wales during his day, perhaps indeed in 
?he idngdom." — A Clergyman. 

' His language was simple and beautiful, he twisted the most elegant 
mna into sentences wholly original, which, at the conclusion, appeared 
one large consistent chain. '^ — Dr. Owen. 

VI. 

ESTHER and HER PEOPLE; being a practical 

exposition of the Book of Esther, in Ten Sermons : by the Kev. John 
Hughes,' Vicar of Llanbadarn, Cardigan, author of " E,uth and her 
Kindred," &c. 2nd edition, cloth, lettered, price 2s. 6d. 

VTI. 

>"EMALE CHARACTERS of HOLY WRIT; a 

co\: ?e of Sermons, preached at St. John's, Clerkenwell, by the Rev, 
H, Hughes, B. D., Rector. The 1st Series, cloth, lettered, price 6s. 6d. ; 
the 3nd Series, cloth, lettered, price 7s. 6d. ; the 3rd Series, cloth, let- 
tered, price 7s. 6d. 

VIII. 

BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES of some of the 

iiios-: eminent individuals which the principality of "Wales has produced 
smea the Reformation. By the E.ev. Robert Williams, M.A, Price Is. 

IX. 

THE CALVINISTIC METHODISTS in WALES ; 

then History, Constitution, and Confession of Faith. 2nd edition. 
Price Is. 

X. 

MILTON'S PARADISE LOST. Translated into 

Welsh by W. Owen, price 5s. 



LONDON : 

HTJGH HUGHES, BOOKSELLER & PUBLISHER, 

15, ST. MARTIN'S LE GRAND. 



ti-. 



CENTRAL EUROPE ADVERTISER. 



THOS. G PHILPOT, 
SS. GRACECHUECH STEEE 

[L©K][D)(Q)[i^, 



Agent in London to Their Imperial Higl 
nesses the Prince and Princess Peter of 



AND 



Jgent in general for the Import and Export of Baggage of all &m(h\ 
Wines, Articles of Vertu, 8fc., 8fc., 8^c. 

Takes this opportunity of at once offering his sincere thanks 
to his numerous Patrons for their past favours, and of assuring 
them that no exertion shall he wanting on his part to me It a 
continuance of that support hitherto so liherally bestowed 
upon him, by unremitting care and punctuality in all matters 
entrusted to him — combined with moderate charges. 

T. G. P. undertakes every kind of Mercantile Agency and 
executes all commissions, as well as passes through the Ciistoru 
House, Goods of every description which may be remitted to 
him through any respectable Mercantile House on the Cpnti- 
nent, with nearly all of whom T. G. P. is m correspondence. 

Parties honouring T. G. P. with their commands, Bte only 
requested to forward to him direct by Post the bills of lading 
of all consignments, together with the keys of the packagrs, 
as all Goods must necessarily be examined at the Cistom 
House immediately on their arrival. 



CENTRAL EUROPE ADVERTISER. 



MESSES, J, & E. M'CEACEEl 

7, OLD JEWRY, LONDON, f 



i'jenis generally for the Reception and Shipjnent of Works of Art, 
Baggage, 8^0., to and from all Parts of the World. 

r 7, TURN their sincere acknowledgments to the Nobility and Gentry for 
•xJr :;beral patronage hitherto conferred on them. They hope by the 
v^o ■'^ -ation of their Charges, and their unremitting care of passing 
ixi~Arh. the Custom House Property confided to them, to merit a con- 
"•in:; nee of the favours they have heretofore enjoyed. Their establish- 
ment comprises dry and spacious Warehouses, where works of Art and 
==' ^ seriptions of Property can be kept during the Owner's absence, at 
moderate rates of rent. 
■ '^ and R. M'C. undertake to execute Commissions for the purchase 
■■ ;?ictures, Statuary in Marble and Alabaster, Bronzes, &c., being in 
(Jirect correspondence with Artists, Agents, and Bankers, throughout 
the Continent. 

British Artists resident abroad, having occasion to send home their 
V'/ovks for exhibition, or to be passed by the Academy, will find it advan- 
Ugoous to address them to the care of Messrs. J. and R. M'C, whose 
appointment enables them to offer every facility. 

Parties favouring J, and R. M'C. with consignments, are requested 
to be particular in having the Bills of Lading sent to them direct by 
Post;, and also to forward their Keys with the'Packages, as all Goods 
iu;;t;t be examined immediately on arrival. 

and R. M'C. keep Lachrymse Christi and Marsala Wines of first 
ty, and are the Sole Agents in London to Messrs. S. Stock and Co., 
i Merchants, of No. 66, Rue Basse du Rempart, Paris. 



THEIR PRINCIPAL CORRESPONDENTS ARE : 

('alais Messrs. Chartier, Mory, and Vogue, 

'oulogneS.M. Messrs. Chartier, Mory, and Vogue. 

'Mr. M. Chenue, Packer, Rue Croix Petits Champs, 
No. 28. 
Messrs. S. Stock & Co., Wine Merchants, bQ, Rue 
Basse da Rempart. 

'"^avr^ ". Mr. A. Chaumont, Mr. Thomas Taylor, Messrs. P. 

Devot, & Co. 
Marseilles \ Messrs. Horace Bouchet & Co. 
"I Messrs. Brochier & Guillabert. 
Imgneres de 



Bis'orre^ I 

rlj^vf^.^ \ ^™^ Geruzet, Marble Works. 



P' 



Df ERXISITl. 



Milan . , 
Carrara 



Leghorn 



A 



Pisa. 



ll 



Florence 



Volt err a . . 
Bologna . . 
Ancona . . 



Rome 



Civita Vecchia 



Naples 

Palermo .... 
Messina . . . . 



Malta 



..Aime Gr^ruzev, 44, .Mlee"? de Toun; j, 
.Mr.. Jo£:e|.ji j^'ati.i. British Consviiate 
.Messrs. Gibbs cSe; Co.; Mir. A. G-. Baroui, Britisii 

Vice-Consulate. 
.Messrs. Buffet and Beruto, Piazzale di S. Sepolcro, 

No. 3176. 
.Mr. Yincenzo Livy, Sculptor. 
^Messrs. W. Macbean & Co. 

Messrs. G-. H . Gower <fe Co. 

Messrs. Peter Senn & Co. 

Messrs. Giac. Micali & Fig., Sculptors in Ala- 
baster and Marble. 

Messrs. Henderson Brothers. 

Mr. M. Ristori. 

Mr. Joseph Guano. 

Mr. Henry Dunn. 

Messrs. Delia Valle Brothers, Artists in Seagliola. 

fMr. Ferd. Peverada, Albergo dell' XJssaro. 
Messrs. Huguet & Van Lint, Sculptors in Alabaster 
and Marble. 
f Messrs. Emm. Fenzi & Co. 
Messrs. Plowden & French. 
Messrs. Macquay & Pakenham. 
Mr. Gaet. Bianchini, Mosaic Worker, opposite the 
Cappella de' Medici. 
-^ Messrs. Luigi Piacenti & FigiU 
Mr. Giac. Salvetti. 
Mr. J. Tough. 

F. Pacetti, Picture-frame Maker, Via del Pe- 
lagio. 
^Messrs. Nesti Ciardi & Co. 
. . .Sig. Ott. Caliaj, and Sig. Gius. Cherici. 
. .Mr. Flavio Perotti, British Vice- Consul. 
. . . Messrs. Moore, Merellet, & Co. 

Messrs. Freeborn & Co. Messrs. Torlonia& Co, 
Messrs. Macbean and Co. Mr. Carlo Trebbi. 
Messrs. Plowden, Cholmeley, & Co, 
Messrs. Macquay, Packenham, and Smyth. 
^Mr. Luigi Branchini, at the English College- 
Mr. T. Arata, Mr. J. T. Lowe, Jun., British Vice ■ 

Consul. 
Messrs. Iggulden & Co. Messrs. Cumming, & Co. 
Messrs. Brown, Franck, and Co. 
Messrs. Cailler & Co. 
'Mr. Ferdinand Dimech> No. 69, Strada Teatro, 
Valletta, Sculptor in Malta Stone. 
Messrs. James Soler & Co., ditto. 



Alexandria 



j Mr. Paolo Decandria, 
j Mr. Emanuel Zammit. 
l^Mr. N. J. Aspinall. 
, . .Messrs, Briggs & Co. 



ditto. 



t. EURGPF. ADyEariS' 



i\')nsrcmtinopi,e . .Messrs. Charles 



Beyrout Messrs. C. E.oquerbe & Co. 

Athens Messrs. O. Metivier & Co. 

Venice Messrs. Holme <fe Co. ; Messrs. Freres Schiel: a. 

Trieste Messrs. George Moore & Co. 

Ostend Mr. F. A. Belleroche ; Messrs. Bach & Co. 

Brussels .... Mr. John Gibbs, Director of the Electric Telegraph. 

Antwerp Messrs. S. A. Levino & Co., Marche de Zeland, 

No. 2449. 
r Mr. A. S. Preston. 
■n .f 1 J Messrs. S. A. Levino & Co. 

tcotteraam ...,< ]y[gsg,.g_ Cooman, Borns, & Phillippi. 

I Messrs. I. Mayer & Co. 
Cologne ........ Mr. J. M. Farina, vis-a-vis la Place Juliers. 

Mayence Mr. Joseph Thuquet. 

Mr. P. A. Tacchi's Successors, Glass Manuft '. 

Zeil D 17. 
Madame Veuve J. H. Stiebel, Zeil D 211. 
Messrs. Bing Brothers & Co., ZielD 212. 

Manheim Mr. Dinkelspeil ; Messrs. Eyssen & Claus. 

Mr. J. M. de Hermann, Printseller. 
Ti/f • tj J Messrs. May & "Widmayer, Printsellers. 

^■^^^^^f^ ^ Mr. F. Steigerwald, Glass Manufacturer. 

Messrs. L. Negrioli & Co. 



Frankfort 0. M. 



j^. . 5 ^r- ^' Steieerwald, Glass Manufacturer. 

J^tssingen .... J Messrs. J. Bergmann & Co. 

Ratisbon Mr. Auguste Koch. 

Basle Messrs. Jean Preiswerk and Fils. 

Berne Mr. Auguste Buesche; Mr. Albert Trumpy. 

Geneva Mr. B. Hitzchel, Grand Quai. 

Interlacken Mr. J. Wyder. 

^rindelwald .... Mr. S, E-othacher, Fils. 

• mburg Messrs. Schaar and Clauss ; Mr. C. B. Arnold, 

r<-:'jue Mr. W. Hofmann, Glass Manufacturer, T'leinei; 

Bing, No. 456. 

. , ;; ,. ("Mr. W. Hofman, Glass Manufacturer; Mr. Carl 

' •• * [ Knoll, au Lion Blanc. 

Mr. W. Hofman, Glass Manufacturer, am Li;t •): 

No. 768. 



0"esi'-i SMr. G.Thode. 

■" , "' ' "'' ' I Madame Helena Wolfsohn, Schossergasse, 1 



CENTRAL EUROPE ADVERTISER. 



D. NUTT, 

[F"@[^[EQ(l[K] l@(o)Kil[L[L[i[^^ 
158, FLEET STREET, 

Begs to call the attention of the Public to Ms Establishment for il- 

SALE OF MODERN FOREIGN BOOKS, 

His Stock (which is being continually augmented by weekly impor'-.:jtion«j 
from the Continent) comprises all the best Editions of the Works of i}ie 
most popular and standard German authors ; also a large collec^ir 
the most esteemed Works in every Branch of Science and Literal .re '::; 
the GERMAN LANGUAGE, and nearly all the best recent Eliticas" 
of the GREEK and LATIN Classics published in Germany, together 
with a select assortment of Books in the FRENCH, SPANISH, tmd 
ITALIAN Languages ; and he is enabled to excute all orders for B^wt^- 
which he has not in Stock, with the utmost possible promptitude aad dis- 
patch, as well as on the most reasonable terms. 

He has recently published a LIST of FOREIGN BOOKS, tLe ma- 
jority of which have been considerably REDUCED IN PRICE , 
consequence of the International Copyright Treaty with PRUSSl A ai^J 
SAXONY, which may be had GRATIS. 

No Traveller should be without 

PAYNE'S PANORAMA OF THE RHINE, price 10s., der 
handsomely bound, gilt edges. Exhibiting in one continued 'v it 
both Banks of that noble River, from Mayence to Coblentz, the .^'-Ven- 
Gebirge, and Cologne; from Original Drawings, 60 Views engra *:• or. 
Steel, with English and French descriptive letterpress. 
'"• Nor could on earth a spot be found, 
To nature and to me so dear, 
Could thy dear eyes in following mine, 
Still sweeten more these banks of Rhine." — Lord 1 
" Payne's Panorama of the Rhine is certainly the best set of y 
that noble river which has yet appeared, and is a most correct and i:..tei ask- 
ing companion for the tourist, as well as a work to reperuse with dsbglic 
when the pleasant days of summer travel are over : we cordially recc-vt^ri,' 
it to the reader." — Observer. 

London : E. T. Brain and Co., 88, Fleet Street. 

LITERARY ASSISTANCE.— Strictly confidential.— A reviewer acu 
classical scholar of considerable experience, whose testimonials aiid 
acknowledged productions in various departments of literature will f'-ijwsh 
incontestible evidence of his competence, undertakes the CRI"* Iv ''.L 
REVISAL and CORRECTION of MANUSCRIPTS, and woi l^ a- 
hance the taste of literary aspirants in any branch of the beUes -v - 
Poems, leaders, pamphlets, speeches, lectures, prefaces, &c., compc •-. on 
moderate terms. 

Address R. S, T., to the care of Mr. Joseph Butler, ^outhwark Li ra 
Institution, Borough Road, Southwark, London. All letters to be pr 



\ 

1 
CENTRAL EUROPE ADVERTISER. f 



— Messrs. Fk. Knorr and Son. 
Mr. A. Trumpy. 
. iVLr. Benoit La Roche; Messrs. Jean Preiswerk and Son. 

,?.i.'. iicy--Messrs, Charles Higgs and Co. ; Mr. Silva, Bookseller, Place 

P.' Pedro, 82, 83. 
:^.j'_yr,i^a-,—Mr. W. I. Smith, Jnn. 
r-!.f. -Messrs. Curti, Risetti, and Co. 

Mr. Luigi Ramacci, Via del Marino, No. 1139. 
. — Mr. Flavio Perotti, British Vice- Consul. 
U^, " —Mr. H. Dunn; Messrs. T. Pate and Sons. 
r C, > .;-, — Messrs. Macquay and Pakenham. 
Rj IMessrs. Freeborn and Co. 

eivUu^'ccchia,— Mr. J. T. Lowe, Jun., British Vice-Consul. 
Napie<ir- -Mr. Charles Vanotti, 5, Cappella Vecchia. 
"' ■ Messrs. Tatam and Mudie, British Consulate. 

—Mr. Robert Jeans, British Consul. 
.3Ji.'.;.«jVia.. — Messrs. Matthey, Oates, and Co. 
Wal/a,-~'-Mr. G. Muir, Bookseller ; Mr. G-. Zarb. 
f i-vhitlonia, — Mr. Gmo. Corgialegno. 

'1 C..!:a)^>/y^a, — Mr. P. R. Wilkinson ; Messrs. Joyce, Thurbum and Co. . 
(:,:n.tarUmople, — Mr. J. Missirie, Hotel d'Angleterre, Pera. 
?■. ■■7?/!,— Messrs. Maltass Brothers, and Routh. 
vrcv^.-— Messrs. C. Roquerbe and Co. 
'"..-Messrs. Asher and Co., Booksellers. 
;>'.,'>' — Mr, Moritz Meyer, Porcelain Manufacturer. 
S'^^i.v,. ,— Mr. F. L. Behrens. 
Cnoahhven] — Mr. C. L. Jager. 
M', :v^^,^, -Mr. F. Breul, Jun., in the Bazaar. 
I," .■•.■?;/;■ H, — Messrs. Bolzano, Brothers. 
Mtiusti-Baden, — Mr. F. Thiergaertner, Postmaster. 
Ke/h'y Messrs. Hummel and Co. 
n^id^'ha-g, — Mr. L. Meder, Printseller, &c. C. 54, High Street, near the 

\':>.:"Cet place. 
Mai:.': ■ :: , — Messrs. Hummel and Co. ; Messrs. Eyssen and Claus. 
f?-. . VIr. Steiner. 

■^' '^■' J' '^ S.M.y — Mr. J. Krebs, Zeil, opposite the Post Office, Agency 
to the Dusseldorf and the General Steam Navigation Companies ; 
Mr. F. Breul, Jun. ; Messrs. Eyssen and Claus, 
— Dr. G. Strecker ; Mr. J. Heininger, Furniture Manufacturer, 
opposite the Theatre, D. 135. 

— Messrs. C. Tesche and Co., Wine Merchants, Depot for the 
Sparkling "Wines of the Rhine and Moselle ; Messrs. Deinhard 
and Jordan. 

V[r. Jonas Cahn ; Mr. F. Burkart. 
^'-i .v'^^; — Mr. C. F, Heimann. 
Aix~l%'Chap€Ue, — Mr. N. Wergifosse. 

.-j; '-/ci'-itTW, — Mr. A. M. De Hart, Repository of Porcelain and Curiosities. 

cr : , '-m,— Messrs. P. A. Van Es and Co., Agents to the General Steam 

Navigation Company ; Messrs. J. C. Ryks, and Co. ; Messrs. L. 

Mayer, and Co.; Messrs. Van der Hoop, Thooft, and Co.; Mr. 

A.-S. Preston. 



